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„ , [December 27, 1913-

The uarden.] • '- 1 •'

The Garden.

[December 27, 1913.

Leopold de Rothschild, C.V.O., M.A., D.L-. J.P-

The Garden.]

[December 27, 191

AN

Illustrated Weekly Journal

OF

Horticulture in all its Branches

Firundt-il by W. Robinson in 1871.

Edited kv F. W. HARVEY.

VOL. LXXVIl. CHRISTMAS, 191 3

LO^DOOS^.

Office: 20, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C,

Published by "COUNTRY LIFE," Ltd., 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C, and by
GEORGE NEWNES, Ltd., 8-1 1, Southampton Street, Strand.

A

The Garden.] [December 27 1913.

f-^/z.

Gr

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/

THIS VOLUME OF "THE GARDEN"

Is dedicated to

LEOPOLD DE ROTHSCHILD,

C.V.O., M.A., D.L., LP.

WE have much pleasure in dedicating this, the Sevent\.-seventh Volume of The Garden, to Mr. Leopold
de Rothschild, who has given considerable time, thought and encouragement to the advance-
ment of horticulture. He was born on November 22, 1845, and is the third son of Baron
Lionel de Rothschild of Gunnersburj? Park, Acton, W., and brother of Lord Rothschild and
Mr. Alfred de Rothschild. Mr. Leopold de Rothschild is an enthusiastic lover of gardening in all its branches,
and has not only almost a passion for landscape gardening, but a practical knowledge of all its details, being
ably supported in his love of horticulture by Mrs. Leopold de Rothschild. He was almost, if not actually,
the pioneer of Carnation cultivation in pots — notably of the Malmaison t^'pe — taking a keen interest in
these beautiful flowers before the now popular winter-flowering race was in vogue. His most picturesque,
delightful, and one might say romantic, gardens at Ascott, Leighton Buzzard, are his own design. The house
itself, when taken possession of nearly forty years ago, was an old farmhouse of the better type ; now it is
a most extensive residence, but the original style of architecture has been carefully preserved. The house on
all sides is well clothed with climbers. The gardens are extensive, and both spring and summer bedding
are well carried out. This season a rock garden has been formed. Winter-flowering plants under glass are one of
the special features at Ascott, and Carnations, Begonias, Plumbagos, Geraniums and forced Roses are particularly
well grown. His gardens at Gunnersbury are also well known, and fruit culture is carried out on an extensive
scale, both imder glass and in the open. Here the pleasure grounds are very charming, particularly in the
summer-time, when they are extensively used for garden-parties and other social functions. Mr. Leopold
de Rothschild is a keen lover of country life, and few things afford him greater pleasure than visiting
well-known gardens. He is a Vice-president of the Royal Horticultural Society and of other bodies
that have for their object the encouragement of horticulture. He was chosen last year as the President
of the Jury at the Royal International Horticultural Exhibition. Recently the Veitch Memorial gold medal
was awarded to him for his distinguished services in the furtherance of horticulture. This year he presided for
the second time at the Festival Dinner of the Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution. Gardeners have no
greater friend than Mr. Leopold de Rothschild. He is at once in full sympathy with their difficulties and their
disappointments.

Vol. LXXVII.

[•'The Garden," December 2^,,, 1913-

INDEX

A.

Abutilon Bouii: de Xeige, lili ; xitifolium,

'Mi ; in Ireland. 31
Acaiitholimon venustum, 621
Acanthus mollis. 24
AcclyU-ne gas generator refuse, 99
Achillea Kellereri, 534
Achimenes, 395

Adiantuni trapczlforme Quccu Mary. 352
JStllionema Warley Hybrid, 235
Agapanthus WellUghi, 424
Almond : Is It hardy In Scotland ? 558,

570, 582
Almonds, double-flowered, 203
Alpine dowers in October, 525, 558 ;

seedlings, 188
Alpines, mulching, 120 ; planting, 79 ;
the flftv best. 115. 130, 151. 16B. 107,
187. 211. 227, 251, 274 ; uncommon,
168
Amaryllis. 350 ■

Ampllieonie Emodii. 118
Ampney Park, flower borders, 562 j

Anchusa italica as a pot plant, 227.
239 ; Dropraore variety, cultivation of,
501
Androsace lanuginosa, 522 ; tibeticum,

208
Anemone apennina, 546 ; coronaria.
460 ; fulgens failing, 181. 190. 202,
214; Gracieuse. 418, 443; japonica.
83 ; robinsoniana cornubiensc, 202 ;
vcrnalis, 156, 166
Angriecum sesqtlipedale, 6
Annual borders, 107

Annuals as greenhouse plants, 7 ; climb-
ing, 161 ; for autumn sowing, 420,
431 ', for edgings, 93 ; for flower
borders, 495 ; for the rock garden,
155 ; greenhouse, 240 ; in the kitchen
garden. 5 ; raising, 125 ; 3i.\- good,
170 ; sweet-scented, 101
Anopterus glandulosus, 177
Antirrhiuum rupestre, 483
Antirrhinums, trials at Wisley, 480
Auts, how to destroy, 203
Apple Blenheim Orange fruiting on
young trees, 521 ; Cliveden Prolific.
528 ; Guelph. 528 ; Lane's Prince
Albert, 77, 102 ; JIaidstone Favourite.
448 ; Peacemaker, 528 ; S. T. Wright.
552 ; sucker, the, 121
Apples for suburban gardens, 606 ; on

Spruce, 274
Aquatics, some interesting, 314
Aquileglas, 335

Araucana excelsa, propagating, 307
Arbutus Unedo, 569
Arenaria balearica, 314. 347
Arsenic compounds as insecticides, 451
Artichokes, Globe, 172
Artificial manures for vegetables, 471, 495
Arum Lilies, how to grow, 425
Asparagus, forcing. 48
Aspidistras, repotting. 221
Asi)idium angulare aeutilobum, 119
Aster Eeauty of Colwall. 522 ; Beauty
of iionsdorf, 500; Falconen. 275;
Feltham Blue. 476 ; grandlfloru.,, 593 ;
Mrs. Frank Penn. 500 ; Perle Eose.
606 ; Purdomii. 271 ; Tradescantii, 545
Asters, giant-flowered, 129 ; in cold

frames, 108
Aubrietias, the colour of, 274 ; What is

a noveltv ? 298
Atlricula Flame, 252 ; Suffragette, 208 ;

William Smith, 275
Auriculae, 36, 175, 180 ; notes on, 283 :

repotting, 307
Autumn border, an, 281 ; planting, 582
Avenues, trees for. 529
Azaleas, early. 154
Azara luicrophylla, 153, 215

Bamboo garden, the, 205
Bamboos, rapid growth of, 213
Bartonia aujea, 165
Baskets, bow to fill flowsr, 269

Beans, how to grow Runner, 209
Bedding, distances to plant apart, 281 ;

plants, increasing, 85
iieds. summer. 269
Begonia manicata, 89 ; Syros, 600
Begonias, sowing seed, 25 ; ^vintcr-

flowering, 6, 636
Berberis aggregata. 500 : congestiflora

hakaoides, 217 ; verruculosa, 202, 226
Berry-bf^iring trees and shrubs, 432
Bitter-pit in Apples, 68
Black Currants reverting, 117
Blackberry as a garden fruit, 486
Blandfordia Cunninghamii, 328
Blue-flowering greenhouse plant, 629
Books —

" Crops and Methods for Soil Improve-
ment," 116

■■ Fruit-growing for Beginners," 40

" Hcrbals," 88

" The Genus Iris," 320

Two Earlv English, 5
Border, a July, 158 ; of grey and blue, 105
Brachyglottis repanda, 177
Bracken as a vegetable, 570
Bramble, the double-flowering, 118
Brambles, flowering, 350
Brockhurst, the rock garden at, 110
Brooms for the rock garden, 237 ; hardy,

229
Buddleias, pruning, 129
Bulb lists, 456
Bulbophvllum MedusK. 488
Bulbs, cutting the foliage of, 225, 250,

286 ; for spring planting, 106 ; forcing,

401 ; in fibre. 465, 470

Cabbage Early Heartwell, 143

Cacti flowering, 219

Calandrinlas, 51

Calanthes, SO

Calceolaria alba, 157 : Clibranii, 238 ;

integrifolia, 387 ; Veltcliii, 191
Calceolarias, annual, 201
Callicarpa purpurea, 155
Camellia cenisia alba, 483 ; fragilis, 507 ;

reticulata, 65
Camellias in the open, 18
Campanula G. F. Wilson, 371 ; isophylla.

hardiness of, 66, 90, 102 ; lanata, 454 ;

Miss Willmott, 345, 375 ; patula,

562, 595 ; pumila and its varieties.

304 ; pusilla Miranda, 430 ; pyra-

midalis, 329 ; raddcana, 79 ; Stevensii

nana, 275 ; Zoysii, 430
Campanulas, lime-hating, 546, 570 ; or

Bellflowers, 433. 445. 473, 483, 496.

524, 534, 536, 550, 562
Canary seed as Christmas decoration, 618
Candytuft, the Gibraltar, 646
Cannas, 327
Carnation Champion, 576 ; Cinderella ,

552 ; Fairmount, 500 ; Gorgeous.

576 ; Lady Ingestre, 272, 274 ; Lady

Shrewsbury, 272 ; Mrs. Wilfred Gott,

187, 192 ; Queen Alexandra, 528 ;

fiosy Morn, 403 ; Salmon King, 500 ;

Yellowstone, 528
Carnations and cats, 78 ; border, 48,

563 ; in frames, 84 ; in New Zealand.

244 ; in Scotland, 192 ; layering, 365 ;

notes on, 147, 175, 230, 301, 336, 622
Carpinus polyneura, 560
Cassia corymbosa, 372
('atalpa cordifolia, 41
Caterpillars on fruit bushes, 202
Ceanothus tliyrsiflorus, 475
Ceanothuses. 432 ; the. 134
Centaureas, new, 31
Charlock seed, longevity of, 582
Cheiranthus Allionii, 287, 571
Chelsea Show, review of, 255
Cherries and their ctiltivation, 595
Cherry, Chinese, the, 124
eiiina Asters, the colour of, 118
j Chionodoxa nana, 166 ; sardensis, 130, 141
Chorizema varium, 153
I Clirysanthemum Elegance, 595 ; Improved

Northern Star. 448; Mary Morris,
I 600 ; pallens. 474

Clirysanthemums. fragrant, 19: how to
take buds, 413 ; in tubs, 575 ; new,
500, 552, 576, 624 ; notes on. 47. 02.
146, 231, 271. 287. 329. 444. 487, 523,
555 ; propagating. 13, 637 ; singles, 623
Cineraria Beauty of Cambridge, 81
i;istuses, 373

Clandon Park, spring flowers at. 218
Clarkias, 183 ; the charm of, 418
Clematis c»rulea on warm walls. 583 ;
indivisa in New Zealand, 67 ; jubata,
549 ; montana and its .t varieties, 84 ;
tangutica obtusiuscula, 403
Clematises, .\ugust-flowering, 421
Clcrodendron foetidum, 560
Clianthus puuiceus, 190
Climbers for a lofty conservatory, 286
Climbing plants for a garden pillar, 539 ;

greenhouse, 553 ; on walls, 338
Cold frames and tender plants, 577
Collector for Wisley, a proposed, 581, 591
Collinsia coccinea, 285
Colour combination, a beautiful, 190, 213,
285, 334, 382, 394, 442, 469, 471, 482,
493, 505
Columbines. 161
Columnea oerstediana, 600
Convolvulus Heavenly Blue, 419 ; mauri-

tanicus, 446
Cordvline anstralis. 606
Corydalis thaUctrifoUa, 621
Cossington House, Daffodils at, 467
Crambe orientale, 33
Creeping Jenny, 405. 430
Crocus biflorus. 155 ; caspius. 506 ;
cilicicus lilaclnus, 69 ; Kathleen Parlow,
103 ; Sieberi, 456
Crocuses, Dutch, 445 ; spring, 361
Cucumbers in cool frames, 449
Cunning hand among the branches, 451
Cupidone, the, 253
Cupressus lawsoniana Fletcher!. 275
Currants, Black, and big-bud, 89 ; from

cuttings, 553
Cut flowers, 424
t^ittings under bell-glasses, 541 ; under

hand-lights, 477
Cyclamen, a veteran, 454 ; from old
corms, 240 • ibericum, 594 ; old
plants, 29. 42. 54, 66, 130 ; the Persian
as a biennial, 594
Cvclamens as biennials, 536, 558, 618
Cymbidiums, 327
Cypripedium Calceolus, 358
C'rtisus andreana prostrata, 275 ; fragrans
outdoors, 225 ; proliferus, 117, 142 ;
scoparius sulphiu'eus, 373

Dabcccia poUfolia, 620

Daffodil as a pot plant, 487 ; fly, 458 ;
notes. 94, 139, 148, 163, 169, 184, 191,
204, 219, 228, 242, 375, 391, 423, 435,
479, 587 ; society, a proposed National,
75, 78. 90. 115. 154. 163 ; seedlings,
213 ; Year Book, 467

Daffodils, four good, 410 ; in grass, 461 ;
in New Zealand, 463, 464, 479, 547 :
new, 461 ; new rules for entering for
awards. 579 ; packing, 127 ; weeding
out, 459

Dahlias, 252 ; at Chrysanthemum shows,
606 ; for garden effect. 526 ; new,
424, 448, 453, 476, 500, 528 ; planting,
293 : storing, 637 ■ work among, 409

Daisies in Scotland, 42

Damson Merryweather, 500

Daphne Cneorum \ariegatum, 313 ;
Genkwa, 96, 143 ; Laureola, 1

Daphnes, 96

Dasvlirion flowering outdoors, 594

Davidia involucrata, 239. 287, 288, 358

Delphinium Mrs. F. Brewster, 304

Dendromecon rigidum, 403

Designing a Ftose garden, 508

Diauthus arboreus, 46 ; microlepis, 41

Diascia Barberse, 102, 131

Dielytra spectabiUs, potting, 583

Dipladenia boli^iensis, 358

Disease, a mysterious, on Hyacinths,
91, 102, 131 ; in plants, treatment of,
215, 226

Dodecatheons, the, 419
Dracffiua austraUs, 570, 594
Dryas octopetala, 45

E.

Echium Wildpretii, 131

Edelweiss, the, 156

ElEeocarpus reticulatus, 301

ElUottia racemosa, 29

Endive, 343

Eremuri in the wild garden, 315

Eremums, protecting, 141

Erica austraUs, 237 ; darleyensis, 442 ;
graciUs, 593 ; hybrida, 407 ; lusitanicji,
129 ; mawcana, 451 ; mediterranea
hybrida, 430, 442 ; vagaus, 469

Ericas, beautiful, 41

Erigeron Asa Gray, 214

Erinus alpinus. 285, 351

Erlangea tomentosa, 436

Escallonia langleyensis, 352

Eucryphia pinuatjfolia, 421

Eustoma rvissrllianum, 129, 142

Everlasting Flowers, preserving, 441

Fabiaua imbricata, 31, 443

Fatsia japonica, 30

Faulkner, Mr. C. F., 54

Ferns in bottles, 3 ; poisoning by, 165
repotting, 117

Figs outdoors, 470, 507

Florist's flower ? What is a, 462, 475

Flower borders, winter treatment of, 57T ;
garden in winter, 2, 18, 19, 54

Forget-me-nots, 335 ; in the pleasure
grounds, 273, 316

Forsythia intermeilia spectabilis, 129
suspensa, pruning, 165

Franeoas, 85

Freesias, coloured, 177

Fritillaria Meleagris, 158, 178

Fruit blossom discovery, 213 ; notes on,
235, 325, 373, 444 ; protecting, 132 ;
the ripening of. 95 ; trees at flowering-
time, 233 ; trees, combating fungi,
196 ; trees, spraying, 77, 80, 272 ;
trees, the flowering of, 118; trees, the
" Woburn " planting of, 39 ; tree-,
thinning, 52 ; trees, wounds 0!i, 100

Fruits, how to gather and store, 486 ;
how to plant bush, 529

Fuchsias from seed, 497 ; the autumn
propagation of, 395

Fungus, name of, 534

G.

Gaillardia, the, 131

Galega Hartlandu from seeds, 227

Garden clubs, 238 ; plants, some good

but common, 276 ; seat, a simple, 104
Gardening acrostics, 3, 19, 31, 43, 55,

67, 79, 91, 101, 152, 583, 607, 627, 630,

651
Gardens of To-day —

Chatsworth, 610

Clandon Park, 218

Hallingbury Place, 598

Hopetoun House, 22

Taplow Court, 325

Trebah, 277

Tregothnau, Cornwall, 397

Warter Priory, York, 8
Gas boilers for greenhouse heating. 600
Genista tinctoria, 391
Gentiana verna, 548, 558, 594, 606 ;

verna, how to grow, 250 ; verna in

grass, 376
Geraiuum lancastriense, 434; striatum,

431
Gerbera Jamesonii, 417
Gesneias, 395
Gladiolus, a taU, 451 ; Craig-a-Noor,

424 ; Lady Faire, 448 ; Lady North-
cote, 448 ; Mrs. Bromet, 448
Glastonbury Thorn, 29
Gloxinia Veitch's strain, 403

V'l.

INDEX.

[■' The Garden," December 27, 1913.

Gloxinias, 896, 407

Godetias, self-sown. 178

Gooseberries from cuttings, 553 ; priming,

501
Gorse. double-flowered, 153
Grafting trees, 472 ; standard Apples, 97
Grass banks, how to treat, 559
Greenhouse in autumn, 564 : in winter,

625 ; plants from seed, 105 ; shading,

317
Grenfell, Field-Marshal Lord, 117, 177
Grouping for colour, 276, 298
Guelder Rose and Traveller's Joy, 581
Guernsey Lily, which Is the ? 619
Guuneras, 154
Gypsophila Kokejekii, 507

H.

Habranthus pratensis, 359

Hjemanthus multiflorus, 1

Hardenbergia comptoniana, 89

Hardv plants, uncommon, 315 ; useful,
Sl.S

Hawthorns, 2

Heath garden, 109, 119, 133, 145

Heaths, greenhouse, 36 ; in winter, 645 ;
propagating. 389

Hedges, cutting, 329 ; the upkeep of, 239

Hehanthemums. 310

Hehanthus speciosus, 528, 583

Helichrysum bellidioides, 208, 254

Heliotrope Mme. de Blouay, 595 ; The
Speaker. 271

Herb garden, 347

Herbaceous borders, 107 ; borders, reno-
vating, 24 ; plants, staking, 293

Hesperis matronalis alba plena, .309

Heucheras, the, 170

Hippeastrum Eurasian, 208

Hippeastrums from seed, 396

Hippophafi rhamnoidcs, 17

HolUes, 179

Hollyhocks, 99 ; abnormal, 622

Honesty from seed, 137 ; in the wild
garden, 249, 276, 287

Honeysuckles, the bush, 311 ; winter-
flowering, 18

Horticultural changes in thirty-four years.

Hot water as an insecticide, 116
Humea elegans for bedding, 470
Hunneniannia fumaritefolia, 288
Hyacinths for Christmas, 454 ; three
good, 103 ; to flower at Christmas, 396
Hybridisation, 67
Hydrangea, a remarkable, 78
Hydrangeas, 436 ; blue, 323, 359
Hypericum calycinum. 201

Iberis gibraltarica, 646 ; sempervirens, 254

Insecticides, 52

Iris, a Netted, 42 ; deUcata, 166 ; flmbri-
ata, 142, 166, 179 ; gracilipes, 304 ;
Kaempferi. 337, 346 ; Kcempferi from
seed. 406 ; Kajmpferi in Japan, 483 :
laevigata, 337, 346 ; .Morning mst,
352 ; sibirica, 108, 285, 362, 363 :
sibirica, increasing, 377 ; stylosa, 43 ;
the Siberian, 551 : tingitana. 648 ;
unguicularis, 2, 54 ; Vartanii, 69 ;
\'artanii and its white variety, 78;
Vartanii \^'hite Pearl 576

Irises, English, 538 ; Siberian, 363

Ivy, pruning, 129

J.

Jacobinla magnifica. 310
Jacobinias, the, 497
Jasmine, pruning, 77

Kerria japonica flore pleno, 78
Kew pavilion burned down, 101
Kuiphofta Nelsonii, 569 ; Tysonii, 538
Kniphoftas, 82, 90 ; two white, 687

L.

Lachenalias, 119
Lackey moth, 822
Lantana salvisefolia, 7
Laurels under trees. 292
Laurustiuus lucidum, 07, 90 trans-
planting. 153
Lavender, increasing, 141

Lawns, Clover in, 397 ; liow to improve,

49 ; maintaining. 280, 343
Lawrence. Sir Trevor, 77 : resignatioj

of, 177
Leptospermums. the, 612
Leschenaultia biloba major, 154
Lewisias. 2, 18, 30, 51
Libonia floribunda. 351
Lilac flowering in October, 535
Lilacs, 216
Lilies : A causerie, 11, 23, 34, 46, 70,

83. 93, 118 ; for outdoor borders, 613 ;

for the garden, 135. 142, 167, 636 ;

hybrid, 538 : of the Valley. 99 ;

sporting of. 533
Lilium Brownii. 409, 443 ; Brownii

leucanthemum, 94, 102 ; giganteum, 358,

382, 419, 482 ; giganteum in Cornwall,

122 ; giganteum in Yorkshire, 547 ;

pardaUnum, 405. 430 ; Sargentise, 442 :

speciosum, 488 ; sulphureum out of

doors, 142 ; wallichianum, 593 ; warley-

ense, 357
Liliunis in fibre, 73
Lily of the Valley, forcing, 565 ; the

Prairie, in Canada, 178
Limes at Brockley Coombe, 165
Linum arboreum,*434
Lithospermum graminifolium, 70 ; pros-

tratura flowering late, 572
Living from the land, 236, 261
Lobelias or Cardinal's Flowers, 157
Loganberry, the. 385, 406
Lonicera fragrantissima, 30 ; nitida. 117 ;

tragophylla, 276
Lowberry, the, 370
Lycastes, 207
Lysinotus warleyensis, 424

M.

MagnoUa Delavayi, 352 : stellata, 145

Manettia bicolor. 444

Manure, misuse of, 39

Manures, buying, on analysis, 62

Marrows, Vegetable, 245

Matricaria eximia Silver Ball, 471

Matthiola bicornis, 89

Mazus rugosus, 139, 154, 178

.Mealy bug on Peaches, 187 ; stopping, on

Grapes, 481
Meconopsis Delavayi, 275 ; Wallichii, 348
Melons, ripening. 436
Mendel's laws. 67
Mezereons. the. 189
Michaelmas Daisies, the charm of, 535
Michauxia Tchihatcheflli, 486
Midland Daffodil Society, 443. 454. 630
Mignonette, 437 ; sowing. 209
Miltonia Sanderae. 362
Mimosa in the London markets, 53
Mistletoe, some peculiarities of, 644
Mock Oranges, the, 399
Montbretia Queen Adelaide, 448 : Star of

the East, 135
Moraine plants, the fifty best. 271
Morse. Mr. Lester, on Sweet Peas. 130,

154. 166, 178
Moss, the lied Cup. 118
.MlUleins and how to grow them. 147
Mushrooms outdoors, 476
.Musk, scentless. 309. 322. 347. 395. 406,

418, 430, 454, 470, 482, 507
Myosotidium nobile, 189

N.

Narcissi, Poetaz. 458 ; raising new. 160
Narcissus Brighteye, 460 ; bulbs, disease

of, 609 ; Caedmou, 208 ; calathinus,

459 ; Colleen. 463 ; Emerald Eye, 220 ;

Europa. 208 ; EvangeUne. 235 ; fly.

203, 251 ; Golden Spur tor pots, 77 ;

minievcla, 70 ; Mrs. Ernst H. Krelagc.

208 ; pallidus precox. 18 ; St. Olaf.

208 ; Venetia. 236 ; \Vhite Emperor.

187
National Daffodil Society, a, 242 : Diploma

in Horticulture. 443
Nepeta Mussinii. 441
Nephrolepis e.xaltata Willmottje, 275
Nerine Bowdenii flowering outdoors, 570,

582 ; flexuosa alba. 593
Nerines. 455, 523. 534, 570. 582 : new.

628
New and rare plants, 39, 60, 87, 139,

163, 187, 208, 235, 271, 275. 304. 328,

352, 379, 403, 424, 448, 476, 500, 528.

552, 576, 600. 624, 648 ; cultural hints

on, 23. 99, 116, 205, 288, 324, 371, 407
New Zealand garden, a. 522
Nicotiana afflnis. 523
North of England Horticultural Society :

Its future, 383
Nursery Notes —

Annuals at Heading, 140

Messrs. Artindale and Son. 615

Messrs. Carter, Eaynes Park. 15

NURSERlf NoTii- —

Messrs. Cutbush and Son, 591
3Iessrs. Merryweather and Sons, 531
Messrs. Seabrook and Sons, 656

Nymphsea Colossea, 403 ; Escarboncle.
403

Oak, an old. at Hauipage Wood, 42
October in garden and woodland. 535
Ointment, White Eose. 346, 394
Olearia myrsinoides, 59
Onions, sowing, 72 ; transplanting. 152
Opuntias at Cambridge, 167
Orchard for a cottage holding, 627
Orchids in ants' nest, 237 : raising from

seed, 20
Ostrowskia magnifica, 361
Ourisia coccinea, 276, 298
Oxalis enneaphvlla. tiie colour of, 582
Oxlip. the Bardfleld, 249

Pachysandra termmalis, 141

Pseonia La Lorraine. 271, 292

Pseonies. mulching, 89

Pseony L'Esperance, 304, 310

Paint, a good green, 165

Pansies from seed, 397

Papaver Perry's Unique, 304

Paphinia cristata, 379

Parsley, 293 ; for succession, 425

Pasque Flower, the, 153

Paulownia tomentosa lanata. 528

Paved garden, planting a, 192

Pea thrips, 226

Peaches, 444 ; disbudding, 149 : planting.

609
Pear, a crippled, 238, 250 ; midge, 306 ;
Magnate, 226 ; tree with four crops,
494
Pears as cordons. 4 ; f.iilurc of, 523,

546
Pearson, the late John, 689
Peas, early, in boxes, 607; garden. Ill ;

some good, 12
Pedicularis palustris, 297
Pelargonium Maxime Kovalevsky, 179,

215, 431
Pelargoniums. 364; scented, 411, 422;

winter-flowering, 179
Pentstemon Davidsonii, 275 ; Southgate

Gem, 481
Pentstemons, 218 ; are they too large ?

493, 535 ; shrubby, 811
Perfume, a plea for, 275, 298, 334, 371
Pergolas, climbers for, 267 ; wood tor. 583
Phlomis fruticosa, 370
Phloxes from cuttings, 246
Phyllocactus. a well-flowered, 406
Phytolacca decandra. 523
Pmk Gloriosa, 322, 334 ; Jlrs. Sinkins.

325
Plant fertiliser, a new, 547
Plants flowering out of season, 40, 63,

618, 630; registration of new, 468
Platystemon calLfornicus, 417 ; and its

common name, 171, 190
Plum, Pershore Egg, 141 ; purple-k'a\ed,

41
Plums and how to grow them. 35
Poems —

" A Garden," 334
" Carthago est delendum," 78
"Sovereignty," 310
" Wallflowers," 179
Polyanthuses, how to raise. 221
Polygonum baldschuanicum, propagating.

18 ; equisetiforme, 533
Polypodium irioides pendulum grandiceps.

93
Pond weeds and copper sulphate, 248
Poppies, cultivation of, annual, 197
Poppy, the alpine, 361
Portulaca grandiflora. 41
Potato White City, 32
Potatoes as a cure for headache, 201 ;
culture of. 543 : does it pav to sprav ?
226, 299 ; for planting, 112 ; new.
448 ; spraying, 201 ; storing, 489 ;
that resist wart disease, 172
Potentilla Boule de Feu, 304 ; clusiana,
10 ; grandiflora and Erica alpinus, 351
Potentillas, 290
Primroses and Polyanthuses, 194 ; preser*

vation of, 226
Primula cockburniana : How far is it
perennial '/ 229, 260, 274, 287, 324 ;
cockburniana hybrids, 324, 409 ; denti-
culata, 77. 118 ; Excelsior, 304 ;
Fortunei, 182 ; involucrata, 314 ;
japonica as a water-side plant. 189 ;
Juribella, 46 ; La Lorraine. 235, 564 :
Leddy Pilrig. 286, 310 ; littoniana,
482 ; malacoides. 291 : malacoi^es
fl.-pl., 6-24

Primula JIaximowiczil, 208 ; obconica,
hybrids from, 596 ; obconica out-
doors, 630 ; Poissonii. 570 ; Pois-
sonii flowering late, 594 ; Pseudo-
sikkimensis, 803 ; Purdomii, 138. 170 ;
Reidii, 231 ; rosea, 198 ; Rusbyi, 370 ;
vincKflora, 500 ; viscosa Beauty, 208 ;
viscosa hybrids, 187, 216

Prunulas at Clandon Park, 101, 194.
370; at Monreith. 364; hybrid, 324,
858, 367 ; increasing, 137 ; some good
395

Prizes tor fruit gardens, 558, 582

Prophet Flower. 821

Pruning-knite v. secateurs, 631

Puya chiliensis flowermg at Cambridge
102, 334

Pyrus cratiEgifolia, 48

Quinces, the Japanese, 110

R.

Ramondia pyrenaica, 399

Ranunculus Lyallii in New Zealand, 34,

66
Raspberries after fruiting, 435 ; autumn-
fruiting, 547, 594 ; summer treatment

of, 305
Red Currants, 3
Rehmamiia angulata, 142
Rhodanthi' Manglesii, 65
Rhododendron, a huge, 383, 418 ; Cun-

nmgham's White, 249 ; dauricum, 18 ;

Grievei, 214 ; nobleamun, 30 : Rose

Queen, 271 ; Schlippenbachii, 136 ;

Wightu, 271
Rhododendrons, sweet-scented, 208
Richardia Mrs. Roosevelt, 314, 347
Robinias, 268
Rock garden at Drynham, 498 ; at

Leonardslee, 337 ; dwarf trees for, 10 ;

flve months after construction, 813 ;

in autumn, 624, 525 ; in autumn and

winter, 607 ; plants for summer and

autumn, 388
Rock gardens, designing and constructing,

572, 683, 696. 607, 621, 634, 646 ;

prizes for, 3, 19. 31, 43, 56, 67, 103,

167, 215, 2:39, 299
Rockery planting, express, 813, 335
Romneyas, 291

Root-pruning by dynamite, 154
Rosa sinica Anemone, 840, 846 ; sertata,

417
Eoscoea cautloides, 275 ; purpurea, 454
Rose Aglaia, 546 ; Annie Crawford, 408 ;

Augustine Guinoisseau, 482, 622 ;

Beauts de Lyon. 340 ; Bennett's

Seedling. 613 ; Blush Rambler, 202 ;

Carine. 299 ; Cliateau de Clos Vougeot,

483, 571 ; Cherry Page, 514 ; Com-
mander Jules Gravereaux, 328 ; Dan&e,
254 ; Douarte de Elvira, 595, 618 ; Duke
of Edinburgh deteriorated, 368 ; Edward
JIawley, 359 ; Erna Teschendorlf.
236 : Etoile de France, 471 ; Fortune's
Yellow, 610. 536 ; General G. R.
Home, 102 ; Gorgeous, 388 ; growers
of bygone days. 606 ; growing in
town gardens, 619; Hugh Dickson,
454 ; Irish Elegance in Scotland, 507 ;
Irish Elegance : Is it free-flowering 'i
430, 442, 464, 470; Irish Fireflame, 275,
582; La France, pruning, 371, 394;
Lady Alice Stanley, 470 ; Lady HilUng-
don, 225, 287, 298, 358 ; Lady Pirrie,
534; Leonie Lamesch. 482; Lyon in
New Zealand. 143 ; Mary Countess of
Ilchester, 869, 382 ; ittiss Cynthia
Forde, 10 ; Miss Flora Mitten, 271 ;
Mme. Abel Cliatcuay, 607 ; Moonlight,

484, 500 ; ftlrs. Andrew Carnegie,
448 : Mrs. C. Reed, 312 ; Mrs. Campbell
Hall, 275 ; Mrs. Forde, 242 ; Mrs.
George Norwood. 828. 358 ; Mrs. James
Lynas, 518, 535 ; Mrs. Mackellar. 44 ;
Nancv Perkins, 275 ; notes from
the Riviera, 631 ; Old Gold, 159 :
Peace, 534, 559, 582 ; President Vignet,
507 ; Rayon d'Or, 81, 103 ; Rosabelle,
90 ; Sarah Bernhardt, 9, 80, 33, 42,
54 ; some diseases of the, 227,
241 ; species, 510 : the Altai, 486 ;
the best white for bedding, 448, 454,
471. 571 ; the Cabbage. 123 : the
Orleans, 482 ; Una, 188 ; White
Tausendschon, 276 ; Yellow Banksian.
482, 522

Hoses, a few perfect. 16 ; about garden,
369, 382 : applying manure-water to.
103. 142 ; as large shrubs, 515 ; bud-
ding. 341 ; buds dropping, 507 ; cure
for black spot in, 189 ; disbudded v.
undisbudded, 606 ; disbudding, 249 ;
dark-coloured. 471 ; do they deterio-
rate ? 312; fallacies regarding Tea,
104

The Garden," December 27, 1913]

INDEX.

vu.

Uoafs for arches, 519 ; for beds, 408,
44:i. 471, 515; for button-holes, 279:
for hou^ie decoration, 31:2 ; for pegging
down, 518 ; for pergolas, 516, 519 ;
trasrrant, 9; from cuttings, 353; gold
mtdal, at the autumn show, 484 ;
improvement of garden, 507 : in a
Iventish garden, 87 ; in churchyards,
540 : In the wild garden, 561 ; indoor,
446 ; late wichuraiana, 482 ; losses
among, 66, 78, 90, 102 ; Manetti stock
for, 43 ; mid-November, 581 ; mildew
on. 559 ; new Polyantha, 278 ; new
Rambler, 340; notes on newer, 8, 21,
32, 45. 58, 66, 72, 81, 92, 104; of
recent Introduction, 526 ; on rustic
poies, 71 ; planting, 589 ; preparing
S'Oil for, 400 ; protecting Kambler,
482 : pruning, 92, 143, 159, 172 ;
pruning Dorothy Perkins. 523 ; prun-
ing Scotch, 334"; llambler, in winter,
442 ; rambling, 406 ; red Hybrid
'I'ea, 32 ; scented, 514 ; simultaneous
sports among, 500 ; single and semi-
double, 512 ; single, late-blooming,
442 ; some of the newer in a Hamp-
shire garden, 517, 525, 539, 548, 561,
573, 585, 597, 615, 619, 632; standard.
512; standard and insect pests, 347;
stems and foliage of, 273, 298 :
summer-pruning. 347 ; three garden,
586 ; top-dressing, 267 ; uncommon,
123 ; under glass, 299 ; unwieldy names
for. 408 : work among, 183. 217 ;
yellow. 167

Rosemary and Carnations, 581, 618

Koyal Ciardeners' Orphan Fund. 77

Kueilia macrantha. 3

Salisbury Close, borders at, 434

Salix maguiflca, 304

Salvia Grahamii, 417 ; involucrata

Bethellii, 482 ; turkcstanica, 431 ;

uliginosa. 476, 484, 507
Sarracenia Brucei, 275
taxifraga apiculata, 1 ; Boydii, varieties

of, 130 ; brunoniana, 328 ; burseriana.

how to grow, 191, 202, 214, 226, 238.

474, 494, 506 ; burseriana in Scotland.

547 ; faldonside, 140 ; florulenta, 420 ;

Graudfleldii, 275 ; Griesbachii, 12iJ.

190 ; longifolia magniflca, 298 ; margi-

nata, 206 ; oppositifolia, 129
Saxifrage cliffs, 35
Saxifrages, annual, 190 ; hybrid, 485 ;

late-tlowcriug, 545 ; Mossy, 303

Scal)iosa caucasica magniflca. 448

Scjihinus, the Caucasian, 117

Scliizanthus, 179. 371

Schizostylis coccinea, 593

Science "in relation to horticulture. 44.
67, 95, 136. 167. 215. 447. 623

Scottish garden, sonn' good thiUL'~ in a.
;i31

Seakale, forcing, 32

Senecio Clivorum. 122

Ser\ian Spruce. 119

Shrubberies, hints on planting new, 649

Shrubs at Aldenham. 300 ; "autumn-
llowering, 538; choice climbing. 144:
for low walls, 15 ; for sliady pluce>^.
499: for small gardens, 601 ; for the
rock garden, 473

Silene acaulis, 251

Silver-leaf disease. 117. ;J0i>, 322, 346.
381, 571, 572. 6n3. 630

Sleeping disease in Tomatoes, 447

Snapdragons, 107. 302

Snowdrops in the grey moraine. 154

Snowy Mespilus, 285

Soil moisture, how to retain. 519 : purifi-
cation, 307

Soils, sterilisation of, 167

Solanum Wendlandii, dwarf. 359

Solidago Golden Sheaf. 547

Sophora japonica, 58:1

Sphagnum moss, 117

Spinach Beet, 377

Spirspa Aitchisonii. 500; Anthony
AVaterer, 407 ; arborea graudis, 403,
424 : iindleyana, 437 ; sargentiana,
328 ; Wilsonii. 432

Spiraeas, the herbaceous, 643

Spraying mixture, a new, 237 ; trials, 247

St. John's Wort, 431

St. Mark's tly, 76

Stachys Corsica, 304

Statices in the greenhouse, 358

Sterilising seeds with hydrogen peroxide,
383

Stocks : Are Ten-week dying out ? 394 ;
Intenncdlate. East T.othian and Bromp-
ton, 397

Stone edgincs. 360

Stove plants, 305

Strawberries, early, planting. 372 ; in
November, 557 : layering, 317

Stream garden, plants for. 232

Streumside garden, how to plant a. 20

Strt'ptoearpuses. 395

Styrax Wilsonii. 276

Suburban Roj-e garden, 509

Summer flowers, some good. 349 : prun-
ing, 414

Sundial, a quaint, 573 : how to set a, 250

Sunflower Sutton's Red. 403, 415

Sutton, the late Martin John. 639

Swamp Honeysuckles. 59

Swan River Daisy. 177

Swede Turnips, 29

Sweet Bockets, double, 309, 334

Sweet Pea : An appreciation, 229 :
Dobbie's Lavender, 403 ; Edith Taylor,
52, 65; Eric Harvev, 56; futures for.
56 ; King White, 403 : Mother
o" Pearl. 4:14 : notes, 33. 60. 122, 171.
211, 290, 335, 635 : Royal Rose, 429

Sweet Peas as bedding plants, 56. 103 :
at Sutton Green, 57 ; elassiflcation of.
63 ; four good. 58 : improvements in,
75 ; in a Scottish garden. 496 ; multi-
plicity of names. 60. 103 ; reverting,
57, 78; some new. 82: some reflections
and hints, 588 ; watering. 349

Sydenham. Robert. 379

Symphoriearpus raeemosus maeroearpa,

Table decoration. 51

Tamarix Pallasii rosea, 494 : the. 5:i

Tarragon. 154

Taxodium distichuni. 23 : in Northern

ilorida. 160
Thalictrums, 244
Thrift as an edging. 387
Thunbergia Gibsonii, 272, 400
Thyme, layering, 341 ; propagating. 141
Timber, charring, for protection. 163
Toads in the garden, 251, 287. 310
Tobacco-growing in England. 531
Tomato blooms, " setting,*' 165
Tomatoes, open-air. 376, 406, 430 ; out-
doors, SO ; under glass, 113
Trees and slirubs for the winter. 110 ;

winter- pruning, 575 ; with ornamental

bark, 647
Trees, hvbrid, 124 ; repairing hollow. 37 ;

twisted, 633
Tricyrtis stolonifera. 52S
Trillium grandiflorum, 288 .
Trollius patulus Bees' Variety, 328
Tropaeolum canariense, 482
Trophy for rock gardens. 27
Tuberoses, potting. 73
Tulip breaks, naming of, 595. 608, 651 ;

disease, 249. 273 ; Massenet, 272. 290 ;

notes. 537, 551 ; species. 195 ; Tree in

America, 30 ; Tree, transplanting, 30,

179
Tulipa clusiana. 171 ; fosteriana, 201,

403 ; kaufmanniana. 129
Tulips at Vincent Square. 252 : dressing

flowers. 153: oarlv. 5)':'. ; " fire " in.

2411

Tulips in grass, 189. 214, 238, 456. 457 ;
.\fav-flowering. 457 ; notes on, 279,
295. 316 ; the naming of, 574

Turnips, late. 353

V.

Valerian, a good, 89 ; the, 131

Valeriana Phu aurea, 117, 131

Vegetables, early, 286 ; hints on cooking
and serving. 543 ; in frames. 61 ;
notes on. 72, 111, 152, 172. 194. 248,
292, 312, 359, 376, 543. 567. 644

Veitch, Sir Harry, 367

Velthemia \iridiflora, 89

Verbena, sweet-scented, 15, 42 ; Lemon-
scented, propagating, 113 ; venosa. 523.
546

Veronica hulkeana. 134

Vines, disbudding, 149 ; in August. 407 ;
notes on, 280 ; planting, 49 ; pruning,
25 ; renovating old, 555

Vineyard, a sixteenth century, 131

Viola florairensis, 11, 43 ; pedata, 254
299

Violas, increasing, 437

Violets for winter flowering, 449; propa-
gating. 185

Virgilia lutea, 523

Wahlenbergia viuctettora. 430

Walks, renovating gravel, 141

Wall shrubs. 527

Wallflower Early Paris, 189 ; Priiiu-ose

Monarch, 235
Wallflowers for the greenhouse, 202 ;

without fragrance, 239
Wasps, destruction of. 369, 453. 522,

534, 571
Water gardening. 386
Water Lilies. 181, 193, 206, 289
Water-side, foliage plants for the. 574
Watsonias, 484
Weeping trees, 384
Weigelas, propagating, 311
Wilks, Rev, W., testimonial to the. 41,

77, 273 ; portrait of the, 177
Winter foliage for cutting. 127
Wisley, notes from. 302 ; spring flowers

at, 243 ; trials in 1914-15, 543
Wistarias, 339
Woodland effects, 300
Work Ens Among the Flowers —

Hurst, Major C. C. 55

Wright, Mr. S. T.. 251
Worms, exterminating, 280, 286, 323. 346

ILLUSTRATIONS

Abutilon Boule de Neige, 612 ; \itifolium.

374
Acanthus mollis, 24
Acauthohmon venustum, 622
Achillea Kellereri, 534
Alkanet by the water-side, 500; culti-
vation of, 501
Alyssum White Carpet. 93
Anemone apennina. 546 : japonica Queen

Charlotte, 83
Augraecum sesqnipedale, 7
Animals, raising, 125
Apple Guelph, 528 ; Maidstone Favourite,

444 ; sucker, the. 121
Apples, how to plant, 529 : bitter-pit in,

08
Aquatic plants, an effective grouping of,

181
Arum Lilies, how to grow, 425
Aster Feltham Blue, 476 ; Purdomii.

260 ; Rose Perle, 606
Asters. Comet. 110
Auricula Flame. 252 ; Phyllis Douglas.

240 ; William Smith, 230

Bamboos at Cambridge, 205
Bean Scariet Giant. 209

Bedding plants, propagating. 85 ; simple.

269 ;

Beech. Weeping. 384. 385 !

Begonia Optima. 636
Birches. Silver, in the woodland. 047
Bitter-pit in Apples. 68
Border, a mixed. 158 ; of hardy flowers.

577
Borders of hardy flowers. 562
Box, a useful packing. 127
Bramble, a thornless, 350
Buckliurst, the rock garden at. 410. 411
Bulbs, how to pot. 401 ; in fibre. 465

C.

Cabbage Early Heartwell. U:;

Calceolaria integrifolia. 387

Campanula garganica hirsutu. 473 : iso-

phylla alba, 91 ; lanata. 454 : latifolia

alba. 550; Miss Willmott. 375; per-

sicifolia humosa, 563 ; portenschlagiana.

433 ; portenschlagiana bavarica. 525 ;

rotundlfolia alpina. 524 ; Stansfieldii.

537; Stevensii nana. 279; thyrsoidea.

536
Candytuft, mixed. 108 ; perennial, 254 ;

Snowflake as an edging, 5
Carnation Bookham White. 244 ; Delicia.

146; Fah-mount, 490; Mrs. Wilfred

Gott. 192

Carnations, propagating. 365

Ceanothus albus plenus, 432 : thvrsi-
florus, 135, 475

Cedar walk, Taplow Court. 326

Chatsworth Gardens. 610. 611

Chelsea Show, exhibits at, 258, 259. 261.
266

Cherry, a flowering. 124

Chrysanthemum Improved Northern Star,
448; Robert Thorpe, 623; William
Vert, 552

Chrvsanthemums. a simple border of,
281; at Crookley Park, 618; how to
propagate, 13 ; in tubs. 575 ; taking
buds, 413 ; taking cuttings, 637 ; top-
dressing and disbudding, 329

Cineraria Beauty of Cambridge, 81

Clematis indivisa in New Zealand, 67 ;
jubata. 549 ; montana and Solanum
crispum, 539 ; Pseudo-flammula. 421 ;
the Mountain. 84 : Viticella alba. 421

Clerodendron fcetidum, 560

Clip for names at shows. 164

Columnea oerstediana. 600

Conifers, trained and untrained. 11

Convulvulus mauritanicns. 440

Coprinus comatus. 214

Corydalis thalictriiolia, 621

Cowslip, American, 419

Crab Apple, the Thsrn-leaved, 47

Crambe orientale. 33

Creeper-clad archway {Supplement). 338

Crocus, an early spring. 155 ; Kathleen
Pailow. 102

Cupressus lawsoniana Fletcheri, 274

Currant cuttings. 553

Cuttings under bell-glasses, 541 ; under

hand-lights, 477
Cypress, the Deciduous. 23. 160
Cypripediuni Olympus. 570

D.

Dart:odil bulb diseased. 008 ; The Doctor.

169
DatfodiJs, a beautiful group of. 467 ; at

Clandon Park, 218 : in grass. 461
Dahlia Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. 520
Daisy Bush. Australian, 58
Dasylirion gracilis, 594
Davidia involucrata, 358
Delphiniums, 293

K.

Elseocarpus reticulatus. 301

Elm, Weeping Scotch, 385

Eremuri, 315

Erica gracilis alba.' 36 ; hyemalis, 645

Erinus alpinus, 351

Eriangea tomentosa. 436

Eucharis grandiflora. 418

Eucryphii^pinnatifolia, 422, 423

vm.

INDEX.

[-'The Garden," December 27, 1913-

Faulkner, Mr. C. F., distributing

Peas, 54
Fern, a hardy, 119
Foliage plants, hardy, 574
Fritillary, a Snake's-head, 159
Fruit trees, training, '232, 233

Garden seat, a simple, 104
Gardenias at Warier Priory, S
Gamons, Hereford, a border at, 106, 107
Gentian from Asia Minor, 168
Gentiana verna, 548
Geranium lancastriense, 434
Gladiolus Mrs. Bromet, 448
Godetias, self-sown. 179
Gooseberry cuttings, 553
Grafting, 96, 97 ; trees and shrubs, 472
Greenhouse in winter, 625
Grey foliage, a border of. 105
Grouping, effective, in a London rock
garden, 586

H.

Hallingbury Place Gardens, 598, 599
Harebell, the Carpathian, 447
Hawthorns at Beauchief Abbey, 2
Heaters, '* Norbury," 132. 133
Heaths from cuttings, 389 ; St. Dabeoc's

620
Helichrysum bellidioides, 253
Herbaceous border at Hopetoun Housi-

22
Holly, a weeping, 180
Honesty in a wild garden, 276
Hunnemannia fumariaefolia, 288
Hyacinths, specially treated, 396
Hydrangea, a blue, 79 ; Sargentii, 264

I.

Iberis gibraitarica, 646

Iris flrabriata, 142 ; Morning Mist. 349 ;
nursery in Japan. 433 ; reticulata
liistrioides, 42 ; sibirica, effective group-
ing of, 109 ; sibirica, 363, 377 ; Snow
Queen, 364 ; tingitana, 648 ; the
Siberian, 551 ; Vartanii, 69

Irises at Clandon, 362

K.

Kniphofla modesta, 588 ; niultiflora, 587

L.

Lackey moth caterpillar. 322

Lamp-post clothed with Convolvulust
101 I

Lilac Mnie. Lemoine, 216 I

Lilies, planting, 613

Lilium Browuii, 409 ; at Chirk, 382 ; |
at Ivew, 94 ; giganteum, 35, 122 ; i
rubellum raised from seed. 95 ; Sar- i
geutia^. 442 ; tigrinnm in a bowl of
fibre. 73

Lily of the Valley, forcing, 565
Linum arboreum, 435
Lycaste Skinneri. 207

M.

Magnolia stellata, 145

Mazus rugosus, 139

Meconopsis Delavayi, 274 ; Wallicliii, 348

ifedusa's Head Orchid. 488

Michauxia Tchihatchcffli, 486

Miltonia Sanderae, 352

Mistletoe on Apple and Whitethorn. 644

Mock Orange, a new, 323

iloonlight Broom. 373

Mountain Avens. the, 45

Mullein, the Rosette, 399

N,

Narcissus Aspasia, 458 ; Brighteve. 460 ;
Colleen, 463 ; Emerald Eye, 220 ;
fly, 203 ; minicycla, 70 ; Norah Pear-
son, 228 ; St. Olaf, 204 ; Sycorax,
163 ; triaudrus calathinus, 459 ; White
Emperor,. 184: White Frank, 148

Nerine Bowdenii flowering in the open, 570

New Zealand garden, a, 522

Orchid seeds, how to prepare pots for. 20
Ostrowskia magnifica. 361
Ox-eye Daisy, an. 474

Picony L'Esperance, 304 ; La Lorraine,

292
Pasque Flower, the Shaggy, 155
Pea International. Ill ; Mayflower, 12
Peaches, disbudding, 149
Pear midge. 305 ; tree, a crippled, 238 ■

trees on pergola, 4
Pelargoniums, scented, 412
Phloxes from cuttings. 245
Phvllocactus. a well-flowered, 406
Pink, the Tree. 46

Pittosporum eugenioides variegata, 277
Polyanthuses at Clandon Park, 194 ; by

water-side, 243 ; in bed. 221
Polypodiura. a new. 92
Poppies. Shirley, 197

POUTHAITS —

Dickson. Hugh, 553 ; Hurst, Major
C. C F.L.S.. 55 : Jennings. F.. 607 ;
Lawrence. Sir Trevor. Bart., K.C.V.O..
78 : Sutton. JNIartin John, 639 ; Syden-
liam, Robert. 370 ; Wright, Mr. S. T., 251

Potato Royalty. 112 ; Wlute City, 32

Potatoes, how to store. 489

Potentilla granditlora, 351

Prickly Pears outdoors, 157

Primroses, increasing, 137

Prinmla Fortunei, 182 ; La Lorraine,
564 ; Leddy Pilrig, 286 ; malacoides.
291 ; m. flore pleno, 624 ; Maximowiczii,
208 ; obconica outdoors, 630 ; Pseudo-
sikkiraensis, 303 : Reidii, 231 ; rosea.
193 ; Purdomii, 170 ; vincseflora, 497

Primulas and Leopard's Bane, 219

Puya chiliensis. 334

Queen Alexandra at the Chelsea Show, 255

Rhododendron dauricura, 18 ; nobleanura.
30 ; Schlippenbachii, 136

Rock garden at Drynham, 498, 499 ; at
Wartcr Priory, 9 ; first prize, 336,
337 : in five months, 313 ; in New
Zealand, 34 ; the beginning of a. 572

Rock gardens at Chelsea, 256, 257 ; design-
ing and planting, 534, 585 ; designing
and constructing, 596, 608, 634

Romneya trichocalyx (Supplement), 291

Rosa arvensis, 510 ; Dupontii, 510 ;
moschata, 511 ; sinica Anemone, 340 ;
soulieana, 511 ; tomentosa, 511

Roscoea cautloides, 275

Rose Acacia, a spray of, 268 ; arch, 519 ;
Arthur R. Goodwin. 408 ; Bennett's
Seedling. 513; Blush Rambler, 202;
Cherry Page. 514 ; CvntWa Forde, 10.
400 ; Edgar M. Bmnett. 485 ; G.
Amedec Hammond. 370 ; garden and
Lily pool, plan of. 508; ~ garden at
Surbiton. 509 ; Gloire de Dijon, an
old, 540 ; Gorgeous. 388 ; growers of
bygone days. 506 ; Gustave Regis.
394 ; Irish Elegance, 430 ; Irish
Kireflame. 5.S2 ; Lady Alice Stardey,
470 ; Lady Plymouth. 226 ; Lady
Waterlow, 518 ; leaf attacked by
black spot, 241 ; leaf attacked by
rust, 241 : Mme. Edouard Herriot.
267 ; Mrs. Ambrose Ricardo. 355 ;
Mrs. C. Reed, 312; Mrs. Charles Russell,
59 ; Mrs. E. J. Holland. 597 ; Mrs F.
W. Vanderbiit. 376 ; Mrs. Forde, 242 ;
Mrs. Mackellar, 44; Mis. James Lynas,
516; Queen Mary, 346'; stem cankered,
241 ; Una on a pillar, 183

Roses, an informal bank of, 561 ; at
Dulwich, 515 ; budding, 341 ; from
cuttings, 353 ; I-a France and Caroline
Testout, 515 ; on rustic poles, 71 ;
mildew on, 227 ; planting, 589 ; prun-
ing. 160. 172, 173 ; standards, 512 ;
veteran, 540

Salisbury Close, herbaceous borders at

(Supplement), 434
Salvia uliginosa, 484
Sandwort, Creeping. 314
Saxifraga Faldoiisidc. 130 ; Griesbachii, ■

120, 190 ; longifolia magnifica. 298 ;

marginata. 206
Saxifrages, Mossy, 302
Scabiosa caucasica magnifica, 445
Schizanthus pinnatus. 372
Senecio Clivorura. 123
Shrubs planted for effect, 649
Siberian Flag, how to increase. 377
Silver-leaf disease, 571
Snowberry, a fine, 527
SpiriBa Aitchisonii. 560 ; arborea grandis,

424 ; lindleyana, 487 ; Wilsonii, 432
Spraying trials at Wisley, 247
Stone edgings, 360; steps, 634, 635
Strawberries, layering. 317 ,

Strcamside garden. 21 '

Sun Roses, 310
Sundial and flower-bed, 573 ; how to ..

set a, 250
Sunflower. Sutton's new, 415
Sutton and Sons' exhibit of Sweet Peas, 63

Swamp Honeysuckle, a, 60

Sweet Pea Eric Harvey, 56 ; trophy.

Sweet Peas, unstaked, 57

T.

Tamarix Pallasii rosea, 494

Taplow Court, gardens at, 324, 326

Tlurift as an edging. 386

Tobacco-growing under glass, 531

Tomato Magnificent, 48

Tomatoes under glass. 113

Torch Lilies. 82

Torch Lily, a handsome, 538

Trebah, the gardens at, 278

Trees, repairing hollow, 37 ; twisted, 6 12.

633
Tregothnan, flower borders at, 398
TroUius patulus Bees' Variety, 328
Trophy, the Clarence Elliott, 27
Tulip Massenet, 290 ; show at Wakefi^dd,

316 ; The Lady, 171 ; the Water Lily,

195
Tulipa saxatilis. 196
Tulips, May-floweriug, 457 ; May-Lowering,

grouped for effect, 599 ; Prince de

Ligne, 464

Vegetables, raising, in frames, 61

Verbascums, 147

Veronica hulkeana, 134

Viburnum Tinus, 601

Vines, disbudding, 149 ; ornamental,
144 ; planting. 49 ; pruning, 25

Vineyard, a sixteenth century, 131

Violas at Sheffield, 616 ; increasing, 437

Violets for winter flowering, 449 ; propa-
gating, 185

Virgin's Bower, the fragrant, 421

W.

Warter Priory, the gardens at, 9
Water garden, a natural (Supplement), 386
Watsonia rosea, 484
Wistaria multijuga, 339
Wood Lily, the American, 289
Woodland scene, a beautiful, 300 ; in
spring, 462

COLOURED PLATES.

Annuals as greenhouse plants, 7

Apple Padnall Seedling, 538

Arum Lily Mrs. T. H. Roosevelt, 314

Carnations, hardy border, 563 ; three

Perpetual-flowering, 230
Centanreas, some new. 31
Clarkias, a bowl of, 183
Crocuses, spring, 361

Daffodils, five good, 461 ; four good, 410
Leptospermum NichoUii, 612
Montbretia Star of the East, 135
Rose Danae, 254 ; Mme. Edouard Herriot,

633 ; Old Gold, 159
Roses Irish Fircflame and Queen Mary

512 ; three garden, 586
Saxifrages, hybrid, 485
Snapdragons, 107

Sweet Peas, four, 58 ; two new, 82
Water Lilies, three good. 206

GARDEN.

1^

3rii

No. 2146.— Vol. LXXVII.

January 4, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes of the Week. . 1
Correspondence
A beautiful native

tree 2

Winter Aconites

flowering early .. ;i

Good Red Curraots . . 3

Ruellia maurantha . . 3

Feras in glass bottles 3

Forthcoming events . . 3

Gardening Aouostics 3

Prizes for the Best

Rook Gardens . . 3
Fruit Garden

Cordon Pear trees for
arboursj pergolas or

walls 4

Annual Flowers in

THE Kitchen Garden 5
Two Early English

Flower Books . . 5
Greenhouse
Winter-flowering

Begonias . , . . (i
A grand winter-flower-
ing Orchid . . . . 6
Coloured Plate
Annuals as greenhouse

plants 7

A useful greenhouse

climber 7

(iAHDENS OF To-day

Warter Prior>-, York 8

Rose Garden

Notes on thu newer

Roses 8

Some good frai^rant

Roses 9

Rose Miss Cvnthis

Forde 10

Rock and Water Gardkn
PotentiUa clusiana .. 10
Dwarf trues for the

rock garden . . . . 10
Viola florairen.-iis . . 11
Flower Garden

Lilies: A causerie .. 11
Kitchen Garden
Some good Peas to
order now . . 12
Gardening for Beginners
How to propagate
Chrysanthemums . . 13
Gardenlng of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 14

For Northern gar-
dens 14

Trees and Suruijs
The best shrubs for
low walls . . . . 15
Nursery Notes

Annuals at Messrs.
Carte r's trial
arounds at Raynes
Park . . . . . 15
A Few Perfect Roses 16

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

IliliDSTRATIONS.

Hawthorn trees at Beaucliict Al-bi-y 2

Pear trees clothing a per^'ola in a kitchen garden . . 4

A broad eduing of annual Candytuft Snowtlake. ... 5

Annuals as greenhouse plants Coloured plate

A well-grown plant of a Madagascar Orchid . . 7

A house of Gardenias at Wartor Priory, York . . 8

A waterfall in the rock garden at Warter Priory . . 9

The cottage garden and tea-house at Warter Priory . . 9

Silver medal Woom of Rose Miss Cynthia Forde ,. 10

An untraine<l and ill-shapen conifer 11

Tlie same conifer after the branches had been trained 11

First-early Pea Mayflower 12

How to propagate Chrysanthemums 13

BDITORIAIi NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

Tht Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he iDill not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, mil be taken, and where stainps
'ire enclosett, he will endeavour to return non-accept* '
contributions.

A.S regards photograplts, if payment be desired, the Editor
asirs that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
ijrapfier or owner of the copyriglit u-ilt be treated with.

T/ie Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
tfte receipt of a proof must. not be taicen as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden ivill alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices .■ 20, Tai'istocl; .'Street, Corent (larden, ]V.C.

Treatment of Yew Hedges. — We -would remind
readers that the present is a good time to attend
to Yew hedges, which are not so satisfactory as
they should be. A top-dressing of well-rotted
manure some 3 inches thick and a foot or 18 inches
in width, placed along either side of the hedge and
nearly up to the stems of the Yews, will prove
highly beneficial during the coming growing season.

Chrysanthemum Godfrey's Perfection.— This

recent introduction only requires to be known, and
it promises to make an ideal pot plant for the
amateur. It belongs to the Anemone - flowered
section, and, when fully developed, the flower-
heads are quite white. It is a sturdy-habited
plant of about three feet high, bushy and free
flowering withal.

Succulents in the Edinburgh Royal Botanic

Gardens. — The succulent plants in the Royal
Botaiiic Gardens, Edinbiurgh, are always worth a
visit from all interested in these attractive plants.
The collection is a very large and well-selected one,
inclucUng many choice Cereuscs, Opuntias, Echino-
cacti, Euphorbias, Haworthias, Staptlias, Huer-
nias, Mesembryanthemums, .\loes and, in fact,
all classes in cultivation. The collection is not
onlv very large and well selected, but it is admirably
cultivated.

Saxifraga apiculata. — The persistency with

which this sturdy yellow-flowered alpine endeavours
to flower right through the winter is one of its
most remarkable attributes. Frost and storm may
appear to repel and mar it every now and again,
but it still returns to the charge, and later, in
more senses than one, is as a " giant refreshed " ;
that is to say, its later flowering is its better
flowering so far as the open air is concerned. Mean-
while, we may have it and enjoy it in the alpine-
house, where it is free to expand its pretty primrose
yellow blossoms.

The Laurustinus. — This old favourite shrub is
flowering more profusely at the present time than
we have ever seen it before. Nearly every outside
branch bears a cluster of flowers, opening and in
bud. We have seen several division hedges in
gardens entirely composed of the Laurustinus,
and, owing to good treatment, both the sides and
the tops are well covered with flowers. In tubs
placed on paths and in other parts of the garden,
this shrub is equally well flowered, and in every
instance the fofiage is lu.xuriant. Any ordinary
garden soil suits this shrub.

Christmas Roses and Hardy Ferns. — In the

vicinity of the Cumberland Gate at Kew a wide
border is very attractive at the present time by
reason of a natural arrangement of Christmas
Roses and hardy Ferns, with here and there the
marbled foliage of healthy clumps of hardy
Cyclamen. The mild weather has resulted in the
fronds of tlie Ferns leniaining greener than is usual

lor the time of year, hence the white flowers
of the Hellebores are prettily contrasted. But
even where the fronds are brown, the effect is very
pretty, and such grouping might well be copied
by people who have a border to plant which is
made up of fairly moist soil and is in partial shade,
for Christmas Roses like a moist root-run and a
certain amount of shade.

The Spurge Laurel (Daphne Laureola). — If
this plant were a new introduction, it would be
heralded with a flourish of trumpets as an inter-
esting shrub that flowers in the dead of winter.
.^s it is a native of our woods, little heed is taken
of its many virtues, and its fragrant, although not
showy, flowers come and go unseen save by the
few who look for the joys of the cotmtry-side at
this season of the year. On the chalk hills in
Berkshire we recently came across little copses
of Hornbeam and conifers, in which the Spurge
Laurel was flowering freely. It is an excellent
shrub for coverts, and is one of the few evergreens
that will flourish under the dense shade of trees.

To Our Readers. — With this issue a new volume
and a new year commence. It is pleasant to look
back upon the year which has just closed, and to
recall the kindly feeUng that has existed between
Editor and readers. To those who have sent us
letters of appreciation and notes of interest, and
also to those who have so ably assisted us in
making The Garden better known, we tender our
thanks. Numerous readers have sought advice
in difliculties which have beset them in their
gardens, and it has been a pleasure to give such
advice. We hope in the year that is just starting
many more will write to us about their gardens
and their difficulties. To all our readers we wish
greater success in their gardens than they have
ever experienced before. ^ Following our usual
custom, we are presenting an almanack with this
issue. This gives the dates of the leading horti-
cultural shows to be held during rgis, and we
hope it will be hung up as a guide to these events.

A Bright Greenhouse Plant. — Ha;manthus
multiflorus is a beautiful bulbous plant and one
of the most pleasing occupants of the warm green-
house when in bloom ; and, fortunately, it is so
amenable to various methods of culture that its
flowering period can be extended over a consider-
able time by the device of prolonging or restricting
the resting period. In midwinter its bright red
flowers are perhaps more pleasing than at any
other period, and they are charming when associated
with Ferns or other green-foliaged plants. The
flowers appear in a large umbel surmounting a
stout stalk 13 inches to 18 inches high, and are in
advance of the leaves. It is necessary to keep
the plant growing in a warm greenhouse or stove
until the leaves begin to turn yellow, when water
may be gradually withheld until all leaves are
dead. Perfect dryness and rest are then necessary
for several months, the earlier bulbs being started
into growth again in November.

lllE GAUD EN.

[January 4, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

The Mild Weather. — As your correspondents
are showing, this is indeed quite an abnormal
season. Here I had Winter Aconites in bloom on
November 30. At the present date the ordinary
Snowdrops are in full bud. The Cilician type
have, of course, been blooming for weeks, and are
nearly over. But what to me is even more extra-
ordinary is that not only is Anemone alpina up in
profusion, but already some of the clumps are
flowering ! — H. Kingsmill Moore. Cedar Mount,
Dundrum, County Dublin.

A Beautiful Native Tree. — During the early
days of May there is no more beautiful sight in
this country than the hedges and trees of the
native Hawthorn, Crataegus Oxyacantha, or May-
blossom as the children delight to call it. We often

brightening up a garden. A bright variegated
Rock Cress is Arabis albida aurea variegata, which
has pretty yellow and green leaves. A. albida
argentea variegata has a similar variegation, but in
this case the colours are white and green. A.
alpina flore pleno variegata is a white and green
variegated form of the popular double Arabis.
A. lucida variegata is not so good on dry soil, but
is of green, edged with 5'ellow. — S. A.

Lewisias Cotyledon and Howellii. — Your corre-
spondent's notes on these lovely plants on page 635
of the December 21 issue are misleading. The plants

why such a society is desirable, i. Tlie Daffodil
holds the undoubted position of queen of the
spring flowers. 2. The Royal Horticultural
Society's Narcissus committee has neither the
time' nor the power to advance the interests of
the flower as its merits deserve. 3. The Royal
Horticultural Society's Classification List, good
though it is, requires revision now, and the constant
introduction of new varieties calls for its annual
revision. 4. It is desirable that special standards
be laid down for the flowers in each class. These
would be of assistance to the seedling-raiser as

are not natives of California, but of cold, wind- 1 well as to the judges of show flowers. 5. Special
swept Alaska, in the Far North. There they make \ rules are required for judges at Daffodil shows,
their home in the deep crevices of the rocks in the 6. The annual report giving inter alia lists of good
rough, gravelly soil. That they have been princi- garden varieties and describing the best novelties
pally supplied through a Californian collector of the year would be of value. 7. Investigation of
may be the cause of the error as to their habitat. | insect pests and diseases is required. I hope that

There is no doubt as to their absolute hardiness
and easy culture in any deep, well-drained stony

A BEAUTIFUL SPRING SCENE : HAWTHORN TREES FLOWERING AT BEAUCHIEF ABBEY
SHEFFIELD. NOW IS THE TIME TO PLANT TREES.

wonder why trees ot this are not more freely planted
in the less formal parts of the pleasure grounds
in place of others which are often quite unsuitable
for the positions tbey fill. That the common
Hawthorn can be very effectively grouped, the
accompanying illustration will show. This is
from a photograph kindly sent us by Mrs. W.
Wilson, jun., Horsley Gate, Holmesfield, Sheffield,
and represents a scene in the gardens at Beauchief
Abbey, near Sheffield. We pubUsh it now while
there is time to plant. The tree is not fastidious
in its requirements, as we know of examples that
are thriving in almost all sand, and others doing
equally as well in the heaviest clay.

Variegated Arabises in Winter. — Without pro-
fessing any great admiration for plants with
variegated leaves, one may well find them of
considerable value for certain positions and at
certain times. In winter they are occasionally
of considerable valye, as the golden or silver
variegated leaves are almost as good as a flower for

soil in a suuny position. Last winter we planted
some, just received from a collector, on a new
moraine in an especially exposed position, and
also on a wall, yet these have done quite as well as
the rest, which were carefully potted and pro-
tected under glass. They are easy and hardy,
and are happy-looking subjects at all times ; but
are, apparently, so slow-growing that the demand
will, I fear, have to be supplied from their native
country. My earnest hope is that the supply
may prove inexhaustible. — J. Stobmonth, Kirh-
bride, Carlisle. [We welcome notes about the cul-
tivation of new plants, as so little is known about
the requirements of many of them. — Ed.]

A National Daffodil Society. — In 1910 con-
siderable discussion took place in some of the garden-
ing papers as to the desirabihty of forming a
National Daffodil Society, but although the sugges-
tion met with very general approval, nothing was
effected. In venturing once more to raise the
question, 1 should like to advance a few reasons

it may be found possible to hold a conference on

the question during the forthcoming Daffodil

season, and that those " in authority "

in the Daffodil world will take the

matter in hand. — C. E. Kitchin.

The Flower Garden in Winter.—
I would suggest that Coronilla glauca
might be added to the list on page 639
of The Garden for December 21. In
Surrey it seems hardy, having with-
,; stood 25° of frost; but, of course,
being winter-blooming, the flowers and
young growth will be nipped back by
such cold. At the end of December
I had it in bloom in the open, having
withstood 12° of frost without pro-
tection. As a plant on a south wall
it would only need protection when
in full bloom in severe weather. The
season of flowering lasts long into the
spring. Also Iris stylosa should not
be forgotten as a cut flower from the
open in mild weather from November
until April. Many notes have appeared
in The Garden about this lovely
and easily-grown Iris. Although I have
grown it for years, I can never make
up my mind whether clumps which do
not bloom well one winter should be
divided up and replanted in spring,
or whether, if left alone, they will
bloom well another winter after miss-
ing a season. Perhaps a real autho-
rity Uke Mr. Dykes can decide this
point. — C. G. B.

Reading an article on this sub-
ject, pages 639 and 640, issue December 21, called
to mind the following winter-flowering plants :
Lonicera Standishii and L. fragrantissima (for a
wall). Daphne Mezereum (with its exquisitely-scented
blossoms), Crataegus monogyna prascox (Glaston-
bury Thorn), Tree and Bush Ivies, and Viburnum
Tinus (Lauriistinus), whose pinkish white flowers
and dark green foliage are invaluable for cutting.
Then there are many evergreen shrubs with fine
berries, such as Skimmia japonica, Escallonia
macrantha. Hollies, of course, Ruscus aculeatus
(Butcher's Broom), which thrives under the shade
and drip of trees. Plants with handsome foliage and
stems also help to make a garden interesting during
the winter months, and of these I would mention
Yucca gloriosa (Adam's Needle), Magnolia grandiflora
(with its shining,russet-backedleaves), Laurus nobilis
(Sweet Bay), Megasea cordifolia, Brooms, and last,
but not least, the hoary grey foliage of Lavender
and Rosemary and the silvery grey hue of a Carna-
tion bed. — E. G. Shelley, Alresford, Hants.

NEAR

January 4, 1913.]

IIIE GAKDEN.

Winter Aconites Flowering Early.— i think

your readers will be interested to hear that ever
since the second week in December the woodland
glades of the Fellows' Garden of St. John's College,
Cambridge, have been carpeted with a sheet of
Winter Aconites, hundreds and thousands in full
bloom. I have for years kept a careful record
of the dates of opening of our earliest flowers, and
I have never known these to appear before the last
days of the year, and then only as isolated specimens.
— M. Kenny, Weslbye, Cambridge.

Good Red Currants. — No doubt the varieties
recommended in The Garden for December i8
are good in a way, but they are all late sorts, and I
never could see that La Constante and Versaillaise
were distinct. The fault of these last two is that
I he branches are very liable to break off from the
parent bush, so that it is not easy to get a large
bush, such as Raby Castle forms ; from this half a
bushel has been gathered. My selection would be
the varieties Knight's Early for first crop (called
Scotch in Kent), New Red Dutch or Chiswick Red
for main crop (dark red), and Raby Castle, Scotch-
fjrou'n Upright, Dutch Spreading and Raby (half-
spreading), while for a very late variety Prince of
Wales or Rivers' Late is very fine. Fay's Prolific
and Versailles are very much alike, and are best
on a fence or wall. They are sweeter than the
others. — George BrsvARn.

Ruellia macrantha. — Among the many acan-
thaccous plants that are of considerable value in a
warm greenhouse owing to their winter-flowering
qualities, must be included this Ruellia, which came
to us from Brazil many years ago. It stands
out from all other Acanthads in the size of the
individual flowers, these being in vigorous examples
nearly four inches long, funnel-shaped, and well
approaching three inches across the expanded
mouth. They are of a pleasing rosy red shade,
veined in the throat with a deeper colour. This
Ruellia is most satisfactory when propagated
from cuttings of the young growing shoots in early
spring and shifted on during the summer when
required. In the warm weather the plants wiU do
well in a frame, shutting them up rather early
in order to husband the sun-heat, but exposing
them more towards tha end of the season — H. P.

Ferns in Glass Bottles. — It is quite usual for
Ferns to appear in glass bottles, as mentioned on
page 633 of The Garden for December 21 especially
when buried to some depth in the soil. I recollect
many years ago seeing a short edging in a small
garden which had been formed with empty soda-
water bottles, which had been discarded and fixed
in the soil, sunk to about two-thirds of their length,
and in most of these small Ferns had appeared,
mostly Lastreas. It cannot be contended that
these sprung from spores conveyed on other Ferns,
but the spores must have been in the soil. Since
that time I have seen and tried the experiment
of sinking broken bottled in the ground, bottom
up, leaving a few inches above, and in many of
these young Ferns have appeared. The experiment,
if such it can now be called, is an interesting one,
although I have never seen any but common
Lastreas and similar F'erns produced. — S. Arnott.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

January 5. — Royal Horticultural Society's Ex-
amination for Employes in Public Parks and
Gardens, 10 a.m.

January 7. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhi-
bition at Vincent Square, i p.m. to 5 p.m.

January 8. — East .Anglian Horticultural Club
Meeting.

GARDENING ACROSTICS.

A S announced m our issue for December i.(,

/\ 1912, we ar;- publishing a series of eight

/ % acrostics based on gardening or simple

/ % botany. Prizes of £3, £z and £1,

* ^ respectively, will' be awarded to those

sending in correct solutions of all the

acrostics. The names of those who have correctly

solved the problems will be published from week

to week, and the final list of prize-winners in our

issue of February 22. In all cases the Editor's

decision must be final. The solution to Acrostic

No. 3, which appeared last week, wll be

published next week, and the solution to No. 4,

which is printed below, will be published in

our issue dated January 18. For full rules

governing tlie competition readers are referred to

page 623 of our issue for December 14, 1912.

DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. 4.

" Hortulanorum Princeps " (properlv arranged).

1. A much-abused word.

2. Singers of an " O."

3. The flower Glenny never saw.

4. A " classy " Botanist and Gardener of old.

5. A green circlet.

6. Part of a chaplet — a glorious sight in

quantity. " In medicine famous and of

sovereign use." Say what I am in Latin.

Solutions of the above must be sent so as to reach

the Editor at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden,

London, W.C., not later than January 11. Mark

the envelope " Acrostic " on the tipper left-hand corner.

SOLUTION AND NOTES OF
ACROSTIC No. 2.

• JOSEPH PAXTON."

Sir Joseph Paxton was gardener at Chatsworth ;
Editor of the " Magazine of Botany," begun m
1834 and continued for sixteen volumes ; and
architect of the building of the Great Exhibition,
for which he was knighted. — " History of Gardening
in England," third edition, page 296.
• I. J. P.

t -■ O SMUND A

t 3. S PADI .X

§ 4. E SCHALO T

!| 5. P OTAT O

U 6. H OXTO N
* John Parkinson. — Johnson's " History of
English Gardening," page 82. Parkinson wrote
the " Paradisus" and also the " Theatrum Botan-
nicum," 1640 — " The most extensive Botannical
work then extant." f The Osmunda is " the
Royal Fern " ; it is dedicated to St. Christopher. —
Friend's " Flowers and Flower Lore," page 158.
There is only one species of Osmunda in England.
t The centre of the so-called Arum Flower is
called a spadix. § A. Dean's " Root and Stem
Vegetables," page 37. It is often spelt Shallot,
e.g., in Weathers' " Garden Guide." 1| Messrs.
Sutton and Sons and others are trying to obtain
such a tuber. 1[ T. Fairchild had a vineyard at
Hoxton as late as 1722. — Johnson's " History of
English Gardening," page 191.

Jeffreys. E. B. Anderson, " Ubique," Thomas D.
Taylor, " Tile," " Elm, Wisbech," Dr. C. G. Cooper.
H. C. Hislop, " Rushmere," Mrs. Prideaux, S. W.
Philpott, " Arnold." Mrs. L. S. Robertson, Mrs.
Fitz Hugh, L. Bigg-Wither, Margaret E. Ewbank,
B. Newill, " Penwarne," " H. G.," " Witton,"
" Newton," A. J. Rennie, Frank Mark, " Iris,"
Walter D. Cartwright, Bruce Barron. Gertrude E.
Simmins, E. S. Lyttel, " Bob," " Muggins," M.
Brown, " Rag," Mrs. Palmes, " D. T.," I.. A.
Londen, H. Carrier, " W. C. E.," " Ping," " Judith,"
R. W. Dean, Mrs. Florence Jones, " Chum,"
Miss Hay, H. Tomalin, Miss' Pittis, " Anna
Olivier," " Ardenmore," Miss G. M. Hallowes,
" White Lady," " Roco," W.' H. Chapman, " Sen-
lac," James Shearer, " Salgnod," " Briar Bank,"
" Watteau," " Elm, Brompton," D. Grant, William
Holton, "Nemo." " Boronia," "Huxham,"
" George," " Arethusa," " San-tan," " R. P. B,"
" G. B. B.," " Lonsdale," " Ivy," " Leander,"
WiUiam Ackworth, A. C. Carne, " Yeltsa," William
Slocombe, Alex. Henderson, Lilla Dance, " Glevara,"
" A. A. T.," " Cycle-car," " Traveller's Joy,"
Nlfs. H. Jenner, " E. Key," " A. B. C," James
Gilchrist, E. Beeson, W. P. Wood, " Boschetto,"
" Agrostis," Lionel Coombes. J. Dnguid, W. H.
Mothersole and " Vic."

*,^* The names of those who have correctly solved
No. 2 will be given next week.

PRIZES FOR THE BEST
ROCK GARDENS.

SOLVERS OF ACROSTIC No. 1.

Correct sohitions of Acrostic No. i, published in
our issue for December 14, 1912, were sent in by the
following: " S. W.," " Brixtonian," W. Bond,
Frederick Marshall, James Clayton, Miss L. Joshua,
R. Chapman, H. A. Churchill, Mrs. C. J. Clerk,
" Nedrag." Ernest Walker, " Omega," Mrs. L.
Patterson, F. W. Hull, " Tempus Fugit," F. Bloomer,
Miss N. Lucas, " Arlesey," .Agatha Mayo, .Miss G. H.

To further stimulate the interest that is being taken
in rock gardens, the Proprietors of The Garden
offer the following prizes for three photographs of
a rock garden, or portions of a rock garden :

First prize: Five Guineas, or a Silver Gup o(

that value.
Second prize : Two Guineas, or Books o( that

value.
Third prize : One Guinea.

The competition is open only to the actual
owner of the rock garden, or to his or her gardener.
The object is to encouragS good rock gardening,
and preference will, therefore, be given to those
rock gardens which show originality in design, and
where the plants depicted arc well grown. It
should be distinctly understood that awards will
be made to the best rock gardens, and not neces-
sarily to the best photographs. The photographs
need not be taken by the competitor, who must,
however, in such cases have the written consent
of the photographer for their reproduction in The
Garden. The competition is subject to the
following rules :

r. Not more than three photographs of each
garden may be sent in by one competitor.

2. Each photograph must have the full name and

address of the competitor plainly written
on the back in mk.

3. Successful competitors shall furnish written

particulars of the rock garden forming the
subject of their photographs.

4. Glazed and mounted P.O. P. prints must be sent.

5. All photographs must be sent to arrive at

The Garden Offices, 20, Tavistock Street,
Strand, W.C, not later than June i, 1913.

6. Unsuccessful photographs sent in will

be returned if a sufficiently stamped and
addressed envelope or wrapper is enclosed,
but no responsibility will be taken for the
loss or damage of photographs submitted,
although every care will be taken of them.

7. The Proprietors of The Garden reserve to

themselves the right to reproduce any
photograph sent in for competition.
S. The decision of the Editor will be final.

THE GAKDEN.

[January 4, 191;

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

CORDON PEAR TREES FOR ARBOURS,
PERGOLAS OR WALLS.

THE pergola furnished with Roses and
other beautiful climbing flowering
plants has had a run of treat success
and popularity for some years. Why
not give the Pear tree a more extended
trial in the same way ? The summer
eJiarm of the two subjects cannot, of .-course, be
compared, and yet, in many respects, the claims
of the Pear to popularity as a subject for planting
in this way is undeniab'c. In early spring, as the
accompanying illustration so well shows, it forms
an object of beauty and interest which always
commands and receives unstinted praise and
admiration. The g'ossy and handsome foliage
of <lie trees is alway. pleasant to look upon, and,
train.ed thus, affords welcome sh.idi' in hot weatlier.

by reason of the limited space they occupy and the
large return of fruit they are capable of giving.
Another advantage the cordon-trained tree possesses
is that it enables the owner to enjoy quite an
interesting collection of varieties in a garden of
small dimensions.

Position. — This is an important matter which
must not be forgotten, namely, that the trees
must have full exposure to light and air all day
long, and shelter froni north and east winds, if
possible.

Cultivation. — The Pear will succeed in any
orchnarily good garden soil that is w;ll drained,
but prefers a deep, loamy soil of rather a heavy
texture. It is essential to consider the character
of the stock on which the trees are worked in
relation to the soil in which they are to be planted.
If the soil is a rich and deep loam, it would be a
mistake to plant cordons worked on the Pear
slock there, as the growth would be so vigordus

BEAUTY ANn UTILITY

PEAK TREES CLOTHING A I'ERGOLA IN A KITCHEN GAK.DE

Not the least enjoyment of a garden in summer
is the pleasure of watching the young fruit
grow, while autumn brings with it not only the
beauty of the ripening foliage in Its varied
and rich colouring, but also the substantial and
generous return of a good crop of sweet and luscious
fruit.

Of all hardy fruit trees the Pear is best suited for
this way of training ; its young shoots in summer
are so pliable that they may he trained to any shape
desired. As the accompanying Illustration shows,
the manner of construction is very simple and easy.
The base of the work, ho^vever, must be so firm, and
the material of which the structure is made — whether
of iron or wood — so strong, as to safely resist
wind pressure. Other purposes for which cordon
Pear trees are well suited are for covering
wall spaces quicldy, or for profitably hiding ugly
corners of the garden in summer. For small
gardens they are a blessing withcmt the disguise,

that it would be found impossible to properly
ripen it in ordinary seasons, especially that on
young trees ; therefore no fruit-buds would be
formed and the trees would be barren. Thus trees
worked on the Quince stock only should be planted
on soil of this nature, because the roots of the
Quince are of a more fibrous nature and remain
near the surface of the ground, where they will
not only derive all the benefit of this better soil,
but also be where they are accessible to the benefits
to be obtained from summer mulchings of manure
placed on the surface of the soil over their roots.
i Trees bear crops much younger when worked on
this stock than on the Pear. On the other hand, where
the soil is comparatively poor and not of great
depth, trees on the Pear stock should be planted,
as they will not grow so strongly, and consequently
the wood they make is easier ripened, and in case
of drought they would suffer no ill-eft.?ct, as
the roots of the Pear, when grown on this

stock, strike down deeply into the grouud for
sustenani.o.

Preparation of the Soil.— Before planting takes
place the soil should be deeply trenched and well
stirred, but the bottom poor soil must not be
brought to the top. It Is a mistake to add organic
manure to the soil at the time of planting, for thj
reason that it encourages, especially in young
trees, too coarse and strong a growth of branches,
which it will be found difficult to ripen, and in
consequence will prove barren. The grower's
aim shouUl be to encourage a moderately strong
growth only, so that its ripening can be assured;
and there is no better way of doing this than by
adding a barrow-load of good fibrous loamy soil
to the soil of each tree, and where the soil is at all
poor add a quart of bone-meal, well mixing it
with the soil at the time of planting.

Planting. — Avoid planting deeply, especially
on iieavy, cold soils. It is a safe practice to- follow
to make sure that the top layer of
roots, after the planting is completed,
is not more than 5 inches
below the surface of the soil. Do
not plant if you can help it when
the soil is sticky and wet, but choose a
time when it is fairly dry. Do
not Ist the roots of the trees be
exposed to the air without cover for
a moment longer than can be helped.
Spread out the main roots evenly
and carefully before covering with
soil, serving each successive layer the
same until the last layer is laid
under, and, lastly, tread down the
soil over the roots as firmly as
possible and give a good watering if
the soil is at all dry.

The Best Trees.— Three year old
trees are the best to plant. A few
fruit-spurs will have been formed at
the base of these from which one or
two fruits to a tree may be taken,
without harm being done, the first
year. Where it is desired that a
large space of bare wall or pergola
should be furnished with trees in a
short space of time, there is no other
form of trained fruit tree which can be
used to so good an advantage. Trees
from six to eight years old may safely
and successfully be planted, and a
^. space of from 7 feet to g feet thus

covered in one season.

Pruning After Planting.— Judging from the
number of enquiries received on this point, one would
think that the pruning of a Pear or any other fruit
tree was one of the most mysterious and unattain-
able of objects, a sort of sealed book, to be read
only by the expert. It is really nothing of the
sort, but is most simple and interesting work.
The most important thing to remember in starting
on the winter pruning of the Pear tree is that in
ordinary pruning no shoots are to be cut in any
shape or form other than the shoots of the past
summer's growth, and these always consist, in the
case of the cordon, of side and terminal shoots. Let
every one of these be cut back, the side shoots, in
the case of the weakest, to within two buds of their
base, and the strongest to within three buds of their
base, the terminal or leading shoot (of last summer's
growth), supposing it is 3 feet long, to be pruned
back to half its length. If it should be 2 feet long,
f) inches only should be cut off, and if it is oiilv

January 4, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

1 foot or 15 inches long, then no shortening is
ruqiiirfcl. The IVar seldom if ever bears on one
year old wood, and the object the pruner has in
view in cutting the shoots so liard back is for the
purpose of encouraging the formation of fruit-
spurs at the base of the shoots so cut bark.

Summer Pruning, which in the case of the
cordon tree is of much more importance than
winter pruning, will be referred to again nearer
the time it will need attention.

The Best Varieties. — The following sixteen
varieties, which are arranged in the order of ripen-
ing, will be found among the best, and are good,
liealthy growers. A few trees of each should
secure a good succession of ripe Pears from summer
to spring. The \-ery earliest ones are scarcely
worth planting, especially in small
gardens, as they are available for
use for so short a time : Beurre
r.iffard (ripe in August), Williams'
Hon Chretien (September) ,
Trioraphe de Vienne (September),
Conference (October and Novem-
ber), Louise Bonne of Jersey
(October and November), Marie
Louise (October and November),
Doyenn^ du Cornice (October and
November — plant most of this, as it
is the best), Emile d'Heyst (October
and November), Glou Morceau
(about Christmas), Winter Nelis
(about Christmas), Santa Glaus
(about Christmas), Blickling (Janu-
ary and February), Bergamotte
Ksperen (January and February),
Nouvelle Fulvie (January and Feb-
ruary), I.e Lectier (January and
February), and Duehesse de B<ii -
deau.x (March to May).

Owen Thomas, V.M.H.

espalier fruit trees near the pathways, and not
infrequently these come close up to the edge of
tile path. Where, however, the much better plan
of setting them back about two feet from the path-
way is adopted, room is left for an edging of flowers
that may be anything from i fool to i8 inches
in width, and here it is tliat we can put our annuals
to good account. The accompanying illustration
will give a fairly clear idea of what I mean. In
.April of last year the seed of the Candytuft was
thinly sown in a drill 9 inches wide, and
when fully grown produced the effect seen in
the illustration. Owing to the thin sowing,
no thinning of the seedlings was necessary,
and, beyond weeding, the plants required no
attention whatever. The pathwav shown is

ANNUAL FLOWERS
IN THE KITCHEN
GARDEN.

IT has long been a source oi
wonder to me that more use
is not made in the kitchen
garden of the many beautiful
annual flowers that are avail-
able. In many large estab-
lishments it is customary to flank
tlie paths in the kitchen garden
with a narrow or broad border 01
herbaceous flowers, a practire ^-^
which has much to commend it.
Not only is the whole garden
made more attractive, but such
borders provide an abundance of
Hcjwcrs for cutting — a very important it
large quantities are required.

In gardens of more modest dimensions, howe\'er,
sucli borders are not practicable ; they would
encroach far too much on the space that is required
for the more utilitarian vegetables, and conse-
quently in such kitchen gardens flowers are, to
use a well-known aphorism, too often conspicuous
by their absence. Here it is that our annual
flowers should be made to play an important part,
and one that, if carried out with reasonable care,
will give a great deal of pleasure for a very insignifi-
cant outlay of time and money. In most small
kitchen gardens it is usual to find either bush or

usual ; then early in May, when the foliage is declin-
ing, stir up the soil and sow our annuals between
the Daffodils. Such a procedure would not harm
either of the flowers, and would render small
kitchen gardens far more attractive than we
usually find them.

There are, of course, a great many annuals
suitable for the purpose, but in all cases I would
emphasise the nccessit% for having a good broad
belt of one kind. A narrow edging to a long path
looks lost, while a mixture of kinds is not to be
commended. On the other hand, a good mixture
of colours of one kind of plant, such, for example,
as Candytuft or Virginian Stock, may be used with
good effect, but do not sow a few yards of Candytuft,
a few of Virginian Stock and a few of something
else. Generally speaking, an aimual
with showy flowers should also be
selected, particularly where the
path is a long one. .A few kinds,
in addition to those already named,
that occur to mind as being suit-
able, and which may be sown
where they are to flower, are Sweet
Alyssum, Swan River Daisy, Pot
Marigold, Godetias, Linum grandi-
florum rubrum. Lupines of the
nanus set, Dwarf Nasturtiums and
Viscaria cardinalis. If a prominent
edging is not desired, the ever-
welcome Mignonette may be used,
but at a distance it does not pro-
duce a very good effect. This is,'
however, largely compensated by
its delightful fragrance. H. H.

TWO EARLY ENG-
LISH FLOWER
BOOKS.

{CoiiliHued from page 652, Vol.
LXXVI.)

1

A UKUAU bUGlNU OK A.NNUAL CANDYTUFT SNOWFLAKE IN A
SMALL KITCHEN GARDEN.

where

about one hundred and fifty feet long, and the
cost of the floral edging was 6d.. the Cahdytuft
being the variety known as Webb's Snow-flake. This
is remarkably free flowering and excellent for
cutting, and possesses the additional merit of
lasting in bloom for about seven weeks in a summer
such as was experienced last ^ ear. Even before
the plants flowered they formed a neat edging
and added not a little to the general tidiness of
the kitchen garden.

To carry the idea of such edgings in small gardens
a little further, we might very well plant the margins
of the paths in autumn with the earlier-flowering
Daffodils, allowing them rather more room than

DO not know how far I am
right or wrong, but it seems
to me that Samuel Gilbert
may almost be regarded as the
interpreter and populariser
of Rea, in much the same
manner as Kingsley in another
sphere and in more modern times
is said to have performed like
offices for Maurice. For one
thing, his " Vade Mecum " was
a very much smaller work than the
" Flora," and consequently it
must have been obtainable at a
much lower price. Then he tells
us in his preface of his intention to
avoid " Bombastick " words and " useless notions,"
and that he was going to write " plain English "
as his tract was " really designed for the benefit
of the meanest Florist." It is, in fact, almost
entirely a flower book, as only in the Monthly
Directions at the end are the work and plants of
the orchard and Idtchen garden mentioned, his
reason for confining himself to floriculture being
that fruit trees had been " well done by Mr. Langford
in a pocket volume of easy price." In this his
opinion coincides with that of the famous John
Evelyn, who writes of this work " as I know nothing
extant that exceeds it, so nor do I of anything which
needs be added to it " (Evel^Ti's introductory letter

THE GAllDEN.

[Ja-nuary 4, 1913.

in the 1696 edition). The author was a clergyman,
being Rector of Quatt in Shropshire and Chaplain
to Jane, wife of Charles, the fourth Baron Gerard.
.According to Harwood's edition of " Edsvvick's
Antiquities of Shropshire," he also practised as a
physician. It was doubtless in this capacity that
he published in 1676 " Pons Sanitas, or the Healing
Spring at Willowbridge in Shropshire." The
double calling was not uncommon in these early
times, and with communication slow and a country
thinly populated, it is easy to see the utility of
such as arrangement. As I have already mentioned,
Gilbert married Rea's daughter, Minerva, and he
appears to have lived for the greater part of, if
not his entire married life with his father-in-law
at Kinlet, near Bewdley. He had one son and four
or five daughters. He probably died about 1692
to 1694. To the garden-lover he is known as the
author of " The Florist's Vade Mecum," a
small i2mo. manual, with which, in the 1683
or first edition, was bound up his " Gardener's
Almanack" to last from 1683 to 1687.
It also contained his portrait. The work
passed through several editions ; according
to the "Dictionary of National Biography"
they appeared in 1690, 1693, 1702 and 1713. My
own copy bears the date 1693, and is called " The
Second Edition Corrected." This is the copy
whose pages we are going to turn over. But before
I begin, in order to bring home to my readers the
estimation in which this little book must have
been held, I would mention that 1 possess the
first and second editions of " The Complete Florist,
or the Lady and Gentleman's Recreation in the
Flower Garden," which is nothing but a very
obvious plagiarism of the " Vade Mecum."

As might naturally be expected, Gilbert makes
considerable use of his father-in-law's " Flora,"
but there is no slavish imitation. His work
appears to be very much his own, in arrangement,
in feeling, in composition and in style. He is always
letting off steam in some quaint poetic effusion.
" The Daffodils are by the Curious
(Whether Legitimate or spurious)
Accounted beauties in their time.
Deserving notice in our Rhime.
But since 'tis here so poorly done,
They hang their heads, ashamed t" r>\vn
What so much fiats their reputation ;
Such Limping-languide commendation ;
Lest Honour loose ; with yellow Jeaknisie
Fretting fall to the earth and mourning die."
The flowers are arranged in the sequence of
their " blowing." Each month as it were takes
under its wing the particular ones which should
be in season then. The toUowing are those to
which most space is devoted, and accordingly
may be claimed as the most popular ones at the
time the book was first published : Crocuses
(some twenty varieties). Primroses, Hepaticas,
Hyacintiis, Bear's Ears (double and single), Tulips,
Fritillaries, Anemones, Stock-Gilliflowers, Ranun-
culuses,5Peonies,'fIrises, Roses, Lilies, Mnlys, July-
flowers, Jasmines, Flower gentles, Colchicums
and various " greens," such as the Orange and
the " Mirtle." Of these, as being the most popular
of all 1 would single out Tulips. .Auriculas or Bear's
Ears, Anemones and July-flowers or Carnations.
This selection is borne out by those which are
specially' mentioned in " The English Gardener,"
a contemporary work by one Leonard Meager,
who, when he wrote, had been thirty years a
'• Practitioner in the Art of Gardening." Julv-
flowers and Bear's Ears ran Tulips very hard in
popular favour. Gilbert says, " Caryophyllus hor-

Tulips the pride of Spring, deserving a Flowerist's
care in their propagation and preservation, especially
the nobler forms, which are called the Dutch-
luly-flowers or, more vulgarly. Carnations."
Roses are said to be " one of the chiefest ornaments
that enrich our Gardens." Thirty varieties are
noted and described, and there are hints on bud-
ding and various points of culture.

"Who would not then these sweet-leaved flovv'rs
esteem
So rare, when cither felt, or smelt, or seen :

Directions are given for making a hot-bed, and
the necessity of having a summer-house is insisted
upon in a rather long piece of poetry, in which
he moralises and bids us

THE GREENHOUSE.

BEGONIAS.

yy

1

" ourSelves as Gardens keep ;
Pluck up the Weeds of Sin, soon as they peep."

The last few pages are taken up with " Monthly
Directions what ought to be done both in the
Kitchen and Flower-Garden for ever." Here
we have the most interesting part in the whole
book. As an introduction to what is to follow,
two pages of astrological gardening are inserted.
.Arranged under ten heads elaborate instructions
are given as to when certain operations should
be done or when they should not be attempted
(str). 2. Trees are not to be gr.afted the moon
waning or not to be seen. 4. Sow or plant when
the moon is in Taurus, Virgo or Scorpio and in good
aspect of Saturn. 8. Set, cut or sow what you
would liave speedily shoot out aga.in or spring
and grow, in the increase of the moon.

One wonders how a man could do so who gives
such reliable hints on culture as those, for example,
of the Fritillary : It " loses its fibres like the Tulip
when the stalk dies down," and it must not be kept
out of the grotmd " longer than August lest thereby
the roots perish or be much weakened by it." TUere
is not a single word about the moon or any of the
planets until we come to th; " Directions." There
was not a hint of any such thing in Rea. How-
came it that they are now inserted in the " Vade
Mecum " ? I can only presume Gilbert was carrying
out what he had previously written and what I
quoted in my last article about " Jackanapes on
Giant's shoulders." Owing to the wrrtings of several
foreign botanists and doctors, and probably in
our own land, more especially to those of Culpeper
(,616—1654) in his " Physicall Directory," the
idea that the planets exercised an influence upon
plant-life gained wide credence in the latter part
of the seventeenth century. The subject is one
of much interest. All that I can do now is to
suggest that certain gardeners— Gilbert among the
number— thought that there might be sometliing in
it, and, in case there was,, took the precaution of
giving a few of the leading principles of the then
fashionable theory. Meager, before referred to, says-
'■ Perhaps it might be expected by some that Ishould
say something as to the observation of the moon in
sowing, planting, grafting and pruning . . .
assuredly notwithstanding the oest of my diligence
I have not had always like success wherever
the fault was ; but I shall set down a
little what some others have writ concerning the
obser.'ation of the moon." The same idea may
have occurred to our author. He would be on the
safe side if he, too, included a little of what others
had written about the moon and planets, but I do
not believe he followed them himself. I trust I
may have stimulated the curiosity of some of
mv readers sufficiently to make them wish for

WINTER FLOWERING

T is now manv vears since the conjunction of
the distinct Begonia socotrana and some
members of the tuberous-rooted section gave
rise to quite a new race of wuiter-flowering
Begonias, which rapidly made headway in
popular favour. In nearly all the earlier
examples, however, the flowers are of some shade
of carmine ; but last year Messrs. Veitch showed
some forms, all with single flowers, characterised
by unusual vigour, large-sized blooms and, above
all, by the distinct shades of orange and rose
represented .among them. This class has received
further additions during the present season. Though
fairly well acquainted with these Begonias, a
splendid group put up by Messrs. Clibran of
Altrincham at the Royal Horticultural Hall on
November 19 contained some eye-openers. The
flowers of many of their varieties are perfectly double
and of different shades of colour, the pink, warm
salmon and orange tones being particularly striking
among the varieties that are now bemg distributed.
Four were given awards of merit, namely, Lucy
Clibran (buff salmon, suffused orange), and three
quite new forms — Eclipse (salmon red). Scarlet
Beauty (bright scarlet), and Splendour (rich
crimson-scarlet). All of these have semi-double
flowers. This group also contained some small
seedlings, which, though considered to be insuffici-
ently developed to place before the floral committee,
aroused a deal ol interest among the specialists
present. The flowers of some of these were large,
perfectly double and of an intense crimson colour.
.Not only are the membc-s of this section valuable
for their own intrinsic merit, but as the harbingers
of a new race they are doubly welcome, and we
shall doubtless soon see the members of this section
within close comparison of the summer-flowering
kinds. The later novelties show a greater vigour
than we have hitherto obtained among the socotrana
hvbrids. H. P.

A GRAND

WINTER FLOWERING
ORCHID.

detailed

tensis, called july-flowers from the month they more

blow in. and are indeed the Summer's glory as I these two old fli

iformation about the contents of
pr books. Joseph Jatoh

(ANORyECUM SESOUIPED.M.E.)

The chief interest in this rem.arkable Orchid is
centred in its ivory white flowers, each with a long
tail-like spur. In some Angra;cums the spurs are
coiled as in A. Kotschyi, which invariably has
two spiral twists in each of its whip-like spurs.
In the species under notice the spurs are not twisted,
but their length — usually from 10 inches to
18 inches — appears out of all proportion to the size
of the flowers. The spurs contain nectar, but only
very long-tongued insects, such as some of the
tropical moths, ccnud ever hope to reach it by
way of the labellum.

Plants under cultivation produce their flowers
from November till January, and the flowers last
some weeks — a point of some importance at this
time of year. The leaves are evergreen and
produced in two opposite rows, while roots are
emitted from the stem— a common occurrence
among epiphytal Orchids.

This Angra'cum could only be successfully grown
in a warm house or stove in which a winter tem-
perature of about 60° Fahr. is maintained. A
suitable rooting medium comprises a mixture of
crocks, charcoal and sphagnum moss, a dressing
of fresh sphagnum moss being arranged, cone-
shaped, arotmd the stem. .Angra'cum sesquipedaie
was introduced from Madagascar in 1823.

CD
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January 4, 1913.]

'I'lIE GARDEN,

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATE 1462

ANNUALS AS GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

DIRING recent years a great deal of
attention has been given to the
cultivation of annual flowers as
t'rcenliouse plants. Their simple
cultivation, low cost and inimitable
beauty when in flower demand that
tlioy shuulil he much more widely grown in this way
ilian they are at present. Thanks to the efforts
-if ,\lessrs. Sutlfui and Sons, who have for some vears
past made a wonderful display of pot-grown annua!s
,il the Temple Show, and last
viar at the (ireat International
l",.Khibitinn, tluir value for the
;;roenhouse is becoming wicleh*
r.'cognised.

To those who have not sern
ilu' displays mentioned, tin
.oUiured plate presented with
Uiis issue will cou\'ey some idea,
,a least, of tlic beautiful efl'ecl
I'btainable fr.'in plants that are
Ino often and erroneously looked
upon as coinuiou t.leiii/.ens of the
outdoor garden. The plate has
been prepared from a ciilo\ir photn-
.Lirapli taken in the conservator\
a I Mr. I, e o n a r d Sutton's
p r i \- a t e residence. The eoji-
v.Tvatory is quite an ordina'ry
iructurc, and is never heated to
.my great extent. We mention this
because many people seem to
imagine that elaborate heating
.u'rangements and special houses
,ire necessary for the successful
cultivation of annuals in pots.
The foHowing cultural details
liasc been kindly sent us by Mr.
Sutton's head-gardener, who is
responsible for the cultivation of
the plants shown in the coloured
pi. lie : ■■ When once the full
value of annuals becimtes known.
I feci sure they will rank first
and foremost among our green-
house flowering plants — first,
because their cost is very trifling ;
secondly, they provide a brilliancy
I if colour and wealth of bloom
that cannot be equalled by an\-
other class of flower in such a
short period ; and. thirdly, they
require so very little heat — in
fact, the cooler they are grown,
liie better the results. For ex-
.imple, Clarkias (the elegans class),
.Alonsoa Mutisi, Neraesias,
l.'ibelia, f^hlox Purity, Antirrhinums and .^n-
chusas, nearly all of which will be seen in
the coloured illustration, were, with one ex-
ception, s.jwn in the months of January and
Kebruary.

The cultivation of these annuals in pots is easy,
because they all need practically the same treatment,
the same compost and the same temperature. Take,
for instance, the Clarldas shown at the Temple
Show. Seed of these is generally sown during
September, but good specimens, such as are seen
in the illustration, may be had from seed sown
■IS late as Februar% . The seed is sown in shallow

boxes and placed in a cool house. As soon as the
seedlings are fit to handle, prick them off in shallow
boxes 3 inches apart, and when they have made
two or three pairs of leaves, nip out the points
of the growths ; this will induce them to break
and make fine bushy plants. Later, pot singly
into middle 6o's, and on reaching the height of
about nine inches, again remove just the points,
I-'or the final potting nifo 6-inch or 8J-inch
pots the soil should consist of two-thirds good
loam, broken up, and one-third leaf-mould, with
an addition of a little soot and bone-meal. Water
carefully until the plants are well ro itcd. The
best varieties for pot culture are Sutton's Scarlet
Beniity (the brightest' coloured of all Clarkias),

A WELL-GROWN PLANT OT AN INTERESTING AND BE.\UTIFUL
MADAGASCAR ORCHID (aNGR.ECUM SESQUIPEDALE) .

Sutton's Firefly (vivid scarlet-crimson flowers,
the long, graceful sprays .lending themselves
admirablv fi^r vase decoration). Double Salmon,
and Sutton's Snowball (pure white flowers and
exceptionally double).

Alonsoa Mutisi and A. Warscewicr.ii compacta
make charming subjects for greenhouse decoration,
the former having delicate pink flowers, each with
a deep crimson centre, while the latter has racemes of
bright scarlet flowers and dark green foliage. Seeds
of these may be sown during September and gently
.grown on, and some more for a later batch in
b'ebrnarv. The cultural treatment is ex.actly

similar to that given for the Clarkia, for the final
potting using 4j-inch or fi-inch pots.

Phlox Purity is a beautiful pure white perpetual-
flowering Phlox for the greenhouse. It makes a
charming pot plant, and the fact of its being sweet-
scented makes it all the more welcome. Seedlings
from a September sowing, grown in cool frames and
finally potted into 4j-inch pots, will be in full
flower in May. A batch from a February or
March sowing will commence flowering in June.
Antirrhinmns, as we all know, are really hardy
perennials, but when once their fidl value becomes
knomi as annuals in pots for the decoration of
the conservatory, they will be in as mucli demand
as the Clarkias. The cultural treatment is exactly
the same as advised for Clarkhis,
with the exception that they do
not require pinching. Such
varieties as Sutton's Tall Cloth
of Gold, Pure White and Tall
Golden Chamois, Intermediate Fire
Kine, Delicate Pink, and Ciiral
Red, when once seen grown under
glass, are a sight not to be forgotten.
Nemesias are beautiful South
.\frican annuals that make ex-
ceedingly pretty pot plants with
their diversity of colouring and
floriferous cliaractcr, Nemesias
are splendidly adapted for group-
ing by themselves in the con-
servatory, or for use in ' the
mixed greenhouse, as will be*
seen in the coloured plate. Sow
seed in shallow boxes during
h'ebruary, keeping in gentle heat
until the seedlings are large ei.ough
to handle, when they should be
pricked off and gradually har-
dened. It is a mistake to keep
them in a high temperature.
Later, pot singly into small
fio-sized pots and place close to
the glass. When fairly rooted,
pot in large 60 or .fS sired pots,
in which they will flower. The
compost for this potting shoifld
consist of two-thirds good loam,
broken up, and one-third leaf-
mould, with an addition of
coarse silver sand, wood-ashes
and bone-meal. Remove t>, a
cool frame and keep close for
a period until root-action again
(■ommences. Afterwards gradually
harden by givmg air until the
lights can be removed altogether.
The cooler the treatment
Xemesias are given, the dwarfer
and more bushy will be the plants.
The best varieties for pot culture
are Sutton's Large - flowered in
separate colours, such as Pale ^'cllow, Rose Pink,
Crimson, Rich Orange. White and Scarlt ;."

A USEFUL GREENHOUSE CLIMBER.

Laxt.^xs salvi.«foli.i has considerable merit as a
climbing plant for the greenhouse, though it is very
seldom employed in this way. It is of a free habit
of growth, and if the main branches are secured
to a roof or rafter, the long, slender shoots hang
down for a considerable distance. The flowers,
which are, as in the other Lantauas. in rounded
heads, are of a lilac colour, and borne for a con-
sider.ible distance along the shoots. II. P.

THE GARDEN.

[January 4, 1913.

G!A'R DENS OF TO-DAY.

WARTER PRIORY, YORK.

ON the Yorkshire Wolds, some Soo feet
above sea-level, are situated some
of the most extensive and beautiful
gardens that can be found in the
country. Anyone visiting those at
Wart^r Priory, which belong to
the Dowager-Lady Nunbumholme, have no need
to be reminded that the owner — besides being an
architect of no mean order — is a most enthusiastic
and clever gardener, for here originality proclaims
itself on every side.

The Priory and its grounds are surrounded by
densely-wooded hills and verdure-clad dales. An
adequate water supply is obtained fr<im numerous
springs in the hillsides; hence the name of Warter,
which was formerly spelt in the orthodox way.

From the mansion one sees goodly stretches of
velvety lawn connected bv bold terraces, with

companion, the cottage garden (a most original
feature — see illustration on page g), complete with
a tea-house of the Gothic style and a delightful
wishing-well almost encompassed with Rosemary,
Lavender and various twining plants.

From a somewhat elevated point close by we
view a long dry wall, divided at suitable distances
by wide steps, or, to be precise, rough-hewn stepping-
stones, the whole overgrown by alpines in Nature's
own way. Here, too, we get our first glimpse of
the rock and water garden, and as we take our
steps -xlong the rippling, tumbling, sometimes
rushing stream, we cross and recross at our leisure
to admire the endless variety of flowers and plants
on either side. We marvel at the combination
of colour, and at length come to the cascade and
watch the water-wagtails dart beneath the showers
of spray as the water tumbles over the rocks into
the turmoil below. We are loth to leave such a
scene, but must needs follow our guide through
the quite recently made wild garden and dry tennis
court to the gardens across the park.

Cypripediums, Begonias, Bouvardias, Pancratiums,
Camellias, Liliums, Callas, Plumbagoes, Pelar-
goniums, Cinerarias, Primulas, and quite a host of
decorative and exhibition Chrysanthemums.

Fruit is well represented at Warter Prior\ .
There are ideal vineries, and the Vines raised from
eyes over two years ago produce large, shapely
bunches of Grapes. Peaches, Nectarines, Figs.
Cherries, Plums, Apricots and Melons are grown
in quantity under glass, and Apples and Pears
are included in the pot fruits.

Our guide leads us along a winding leafy drive,
which brings us to the picturesque village of
Warter. Here one sees well-tended gardens with
a choice collection of plants seldom met with in
cottagers' gardens. Prizes are awarded annually
for the most effective cottage gardens.

Another short, steep drive to the south of the
Priory, and we suddenly enter the snug little village
of Nunburnholme, asleep — so to speak — to the rest
of the Wolds. From here we turn our faces homeward
with the unspoken, but none the less sincere, wish
that the lady whose gardens have
given us such pleasure may live long
to promote the noble art of gardening.
Walton, Warwick. Sidney Lego.

A HOUSE OF GARDENIAS AT WARTER PRIORY, YORK.

ornamental stone walls covered with Roses and
various creepers, which, in summer and early
autumn, are ablaze with colour. As we ramble
through a fine old rustic pergola we come to the
Italian garden, with its wealth of bloom, statuary
and fine topiary work. Of special interest at
this point is a broad flagged path, considerably
more than a hundred yards long, parallel to which,
but separated by informal beds, runs a fine Rose
hedge of the old and well-known variety Fellenberg.
To the south-west of this is a carefully-planned
and charmingly-situated recluse, in the centre of
which stands a massive Italian well-top, brought
by the owner from Italy.

We proceed by way of the lake, well stocked
with golden trout and furnished with water plants,
through the Rose garden, resplendent with large
beds of sterling varieties, to the spacious Dutch
garden, with its quaint ornrments. WV then come
to the greatly - admired sunk garden and its

On entering the kitchen garden we meet with
another surprise. Besides most worthy examples
of fruit and vegetables we espy a harvest of flowers
on all sides — borders of Roses. Carnations, Chry-
santhemums, PjEony Dahlias, annuals, herbaceous
plants and half an acre of Sweet Peas. All these
are grown, we are told, for the embellishment
of the mansion. A large supply is needed for this
purpose throughout the year. The newly-built
glass-houses are numerous, aii*the fruit and flowers
grown therein are — as is vegetation in all other
departments — brought to a high standard of
excellence. It is no wonder that such an all-round
gardener as the superintendent, Mr. F. Jordan,
is often seen judging at the leading horticultural
exhibitions.

About five thousand Tree and Malraaison
Carnations are grown, and among other things
are quantities of Ixoras, Gardenias, Gesneras,
Euphorbias, Cyelainen, Catlleyas, Calanthes,

THE ROSE GARDEN.

NOTES ON THE NEWER
ROSES.

SOME DECORATIVE VARIETIES.

[Continued from page 641.)
Excelsa (H. M. Walsh, 1910),
wichuraiana. — A double-flowered Hia-
watha, rather deeper and better
ciDloured than Crimson Rambler, with
the advantage of being late flowering.
Flower of Fairfleld (Schultheis,
1908), a perpetual (so called) flowering
Crimson Rambler. — It undoubtedly
flowers on the wood of this year's
growth, but is terribly subject to
mildew, and I have discarded my
plants of it this autumn.

Miss Hellyett (Fauqueet Fils, 1909),
wi'luiraiana. — To my mind this is one
iif the best of recent introductions in
this rapidly-growing class. It is a
\'ery vigorous grower, as rampant as
American Pillar, and the flowers arc
of large size for this class, in the bud
stage not unlike Lady Waterlow,
opening out into flowers that resemble that beauti-
ful Tea Mme. Antoine Mari. It is a midseason rather
than an early flowerer ; its only fault is that so far
one would not call it particularly free flowering,
but I do not think, when it has become established,
one would have to find fault with it on that account.
Sweet-scented, bright rosy carmine outside petal,
fading into a blush flesh in the large open flower.
Those who have not got it should certainly try it ;
it has been very much admired here.

Sarah Bernhardt (Dnhreuil, 1908), Hybrid Tea. —
This should It m every garden. A semi-climber,
good for a loft. pillar. The flowers are a brilliant
scarlet-crimson that does not fade into an un-
pleasant shade, but becomes quite a good velvety
purple. The flowers are quite large, and although
only of few petals, one might call them semi-
double, yet the younger blooms have quite a
good point and are of excellent shape, ll is free
flowering, and llu- tlowers are produced in trusses

January 4, 1913-]

THE GiUiDEN.

Klondyke, Messrs. Paul's latest intro-
duction, is even better. They both
have most beautiful foliage, and the
Rose under notice is certainly one of
the best yellows, not particularly
strong growing, but making, with me,
an excellent pillar Rose. The flowers
are of fair size, double, rosette-shaped,
retaining their colour imtil almost the
last, when they fade to white. The
contrast with the foliage is excellent ;
mdeed, the Rose is worth growing for
the foliage alone, so beautiful is it.
Klondyke has not yet flowered with
nie, but I am told the flowers are ot
a better shape, a deeper colour and an
improvement on Shower of Gold.

Sodenia (Weigland, IQI2), wichiirai-
.ma. — I have not grown or flowered
tlus variety, but it has been recom-
mended to me to get, so I have a plant
of it. It is a carmine pink of very deep
colour, approaching a scarlet; described
as having a larger truss than Dorothy
Perkins, and lasting for a Ujng time
on the plant. A good grower that may
prove an acquisition.

Soulhumplon. H. E. Molvneux.
(7"() be continued.)

A WATERFALL IN rHK K<X'K GARDEN AT WARTER _PRIO RV.

of three to hvc on the laterals froui last year's it is better established it will improve both in the i

wood in the early part of the season, and again in quantity of flowers and in growth. j

the autumn on the wood of this year's growth. Showerof Gold (Paul and Son, i9io),wichuraiana. i

Not quite free from mildew, perhaps, but only — This is quite a good Rose, but I am told that '

slightly attacked. With me it has

been one of the most satisfactory of

the new climbers, and I can thoroughly

recommend it to the trade (who appear

to have overlooked it) and amateur

alike.

Seagull (M. Prichard, 1909). — \
very pretty little single, flowers the
size of a shilling, colour pure white
with yellow stamens, produced in very
large clusters containing fifty flowers
or more. It is a very rampant grower,
having made several shoots more than
twenty feet long with me this season."
The flowers are not unlike that old-
fashioned Rose The Garland, but are
a better and purer white. I should
say it is mildew-proof. It only flowers
once, but the buds are so numerous
that it is in flower for quite two
months.

Sheilagh Wilson (Paul and Son,
191 1). — \ semi-climbing Hybrid Tea
raised by Dr. J. Campbell Hall. I
first saw it in his garden at Monaghan.
It is described as a better-shaped and
longer-petalled Carmine Pillar — and
this is true of it — but so far with
me it has not proved anything like
so free flowering as that variety, and
might almost he described as a shy
flowerer. It certainly is more per-
petual, .iiid 1 had a few flowers in the
.lutnmn ; Inil so far it does not grow
with MIC lii'vond S feet. Perhaps when

SOME GOOD FRAGRANT
ROSES.

VVuE.v selecting the Roses lor our
gardens at this season of the year, it
is of the utmost importance that
varieties possessing the precious attribute of
fragrance should for the most part be chosen in
preference to others which have not been endowed
in this special direction. I hav^for many years

THE COTTAGE GARDEN AND TEA-HOUSE AT VVARTER rRlORV

10

THE GARDEN.

[January 4, iqi;

been ail ardent cultivatdr, amid great difficulties,
of Roses, especially Hybrid I'erpetuals, Teas,
Noisettes, Austrian Briars, wichuraianas and
Hvbrid Teas, and I am strongly of opinion that a
Rose destitute of fragrance is like a beautiful woman
without sweetness of nature. Who that sees Fran
Karl Druschki for the first time and has heard
that one of its august parents is the intensely
odorous Caroline Testout (the other being Merveille
de Lyon) could possibly imagine, from its outward
aspect, that such an absolutely peerless beauty
among pure white varieties should know nothing
of that subtly pervading fascination that only
fragrance can confer ?

Tliere are many cultivators, like tlie late Dean
of Rochester and the Rev. H. D'oinhrain, who
would gladly prefer for the adorn-
ment of their nuirh-loved, gracious
gardens sucli intensely odorous
varieties, though of widely different
complexion, as I. a France, Caroline
Testout and Viscountess Folkestone,
of which the last-mentioned Hybrid
Tea, one of the very fniest crea-
tions of tlic late Mr. Henr\
Bennett, has not yet lieen super-
seded,.in my estimation.

Tlicre is at least one extremely
graceful pure white Rose of
pendulous tendency which has an
exquisite fragrance, derived directly
from Souvenir d'un .Ami, and that
is the variety called The Queen
in America, and in this country
Souvenir de S. A. Prince. This
is a Tea that luifolds its floral
treasures very late hi the autumn.
.At the end of September I had
it still flowering serenely and
fragrantly. I have, therefore, no
hesitation in recommending this
charming Rose, which received
its English name from the late
Mr. Prince of Oxford, to those
readers of The Garde.n who
desire to include in their collei--
tion of Tea Roses, however strictly
limited, a truly sweet-scented,
snowy white variety.

There are quite a number of
eminent representatives of this
attractive section, such, for ex-
ample, as Catherine Mermet,
The Bride (whose delicate green
suffusion below the petals makes
it seem among Roses what Lilium
speciosum Kra?tzeri is among
Oriental Lilies) and the White
Maman Cochet, which have a
highly distinctive fr.agrance, like that of a
Nectarine or - a ripe Peach. 1 find that, as a
general rule, Roses of the closely compact
Catherine Mermet family are arduous of culture,
and especially in a shady garden such as mine,
requiring a richly fertile soil and a warm, ripening
season for their perfect floral evolution. There
are many of the so-called Hybrid Perpetuals that
have an exquisite fragrance. Those 1 most admire
are Captain Hayward, Hugh Dickson (a very near
approximation to perfection), Florence Haswell
Veitch (a recent and notable introduction).
Lady Helen Stewart (a lovely native of far-
famed Newlownards) and In^■ own beautiful
carmine rose nanicsakc Irmii W.iltliam Cross,
which the late Mr, Willi. nn I'.nil rxiiressi\'cly

described as "one of . the sweetest Roses in
cultivation."

A refined aroma einaiiates in the tranquil, dewy
evenings of summer from the China Roses, while
supremely fascinating are the .Austrian and Penzance
Briars with their radiant flowers and fragrant
leaves. David R. Williamson.

ROSE MISS CYNTHIA FORDE.

This is certainly one of the most promising of
Hybrid Teas brought out within the last few- years.
It is very free flowering, and good alike for garden
and for exhibition purposes. .-Mrcady it has gained
distinction as an exhibition Rose by the fact that
the bloom illustrated on this page and shown by

THE

ROCK AND WATER
GARDEN.

POTENTILLA CLUSIANA.

P

IL\ ER MEDAL BLOOM OK ROSE MIS.S CYNTHIA irQRDE

the raisers (Messrs. Hugh Dickson) secured the
silver medal at the last autumn show of the National
Rose Society for the best Hybrid Tea in the show.
As a garden variety tliis Rose possesses two precious
gilts — it is almost, if not quite, mildew-proof,
and is sweetly fragrant. It is brilliant rose pink
in colour and possesses exceptional merits as a
bedding variet\. When introduced in 1900 it
received the gold medal of the National Rose
Society, and so far it has [irovcd worthy of this
high honour. It is true tint th. flowers are
not quite so erect as one wi ild wish, but its
many other good poiats more than compensate
this slight falling. It was one of the most
i dniirrd ui thi- R'>^c; in oir ;;a d Ml last
suniiiH r.

OTENTILLA NITIDA, from the
Dolomites, we all know, with its
exquisite mats of silver foliage
peppered thick with little blushing
Dog Roses, (And if the peppering
prove too sparse in our gardens,
I believe that poor soil and squeezing the
plant between stones may produce wonders in the
way of blossom.) But its no less beautiful snow
white counterpart, P. clusiana, seems to be almost
unknown among us. It is a species
of the Eastern limestones, where
it replaces P. nitida at con-
siderable elevations on cliffs and
rocky ridees. It is only less
beautiful than its rosy rival, de-
\eloping into large, low masses
of silver grey foliage (but not
so silvery as in P. nitida), with
abundance of great flowers of the
purest white, not quite so large
nor singly borne, nor sitting quite
so close to the tult, but nime
the less of very special beauty
and brilliancy in all its forms,
and, in the liest, a really re-
markable plant. Between the
snowy petals peeps the hint of a
rosy sepal, which gives an added
(■harm. P. nitida and P. clusiana,
woody-rooted, and often hanging
in huge sheets fnun a micro-
scopic crevice in some sheer
limestone precipice, are both
Impossible to collect entire.
Fortunately, however, the broken-
oft cushion can very easily be
made to root as cuttings, and I
see no reason to doubt that P.
clusiana will prove to be of
perfectly willing culture and a
real treasure in the garden. Like
P. nitida, it enhances its beauty
and its value by showing both
in late summer, when almost everv-
thliig but the Campanulas is
gone to sc^ed. I never saw it
before 1911, nor collected it
seriously till last year ; but it
attracts me very greatly, and I
desire to see nothing more beautiful
than a great grey chff hung with
its silver green masses, on which
like thick-set stars stand out the milky brilliance
of its blossoms. Reginald Farrek.

DWARF TREES FOR THE ROCK
GARDEN.

LvERVON'K is familiar with the charm that ..h\'.irl
or slow growing conifers give to the alpine
garden when judiciously placed, and, being
evergreen, they gl\e a furnished appearance to
the garde 1 even in the depth of winter. One of
the drawbacks, however, which become apparent
when they are grown in sheltered places, free from
the tearing gusts of wind which their giant relatives
ha\'e to withstand in the alpine regions, is that they
are apt to grow vcr\- iIchm- iiitl crowded, and so lose
llic characteristic liii(< whli h an old weather-beaten

January 4, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

11

-AN UNTKAIXF.n AND ILL-SHAI'EM CONIl'lCK
XOTICE HOW niSNKIv THE HICAD IS.

irce assumes. This is probably accentuated by
very little attention being gi\'en thorn with regard
tn their shape by the nurseryman.

Conifers in the mountains, where they often look
so picturesque clinging to some projecting crag,
do not have this mop-headed appearance, but
'^how an airy grace which, if we could secure it in
our small specimens in the alpine garden, would be a
Kreat acquisition. Having made some experiments
in this direction, I venture to bring them forw.ird
so that others may take advantage of any merit
they may possess, and doubtless other growers
will vastly improve upon mv examples.

Photograph \o. i shows a little conifer just
as received from the grower, and though it appears
somewhat lU-shapeu, had, in my opinion, the making
of a suitable specimen for a projecting shoulder
m the rock garden, if only the matm-cd aspect
could be introduced into it. It illustrates the dense
cluster of growth which is more or less often met
with in young, slow-growing conifers. I carefully
planted it in the desired spot, and roughly staked
it to prevent movement by wind, .\fter rain had
consolidated the soil about its roots, I replaced
the three sticks with three pieces of thin copper wire,
this standing the weather better than most other
kinds, and having the very great advantage, in
my case, of becoming almost invisible by tarnishing
in a short time. Small bandages of leather were
placed upon the stems, before putting the wires
ftn them, to prevent chafing. Then, by gently
bending down the branches into positions which
were more suitable for the effect I desired, and fixing
them with short pieces of copper wire, either to

the previous supports or to the
main stem, aided by judicious
thinning out, where necessary, those
places where growth was superflu-
ous, ■ the result obtained was as
illustrated in photograph No. 2.

.After a week it was impossible,
at a distance of 5 yards, to detect
the wires. The two photographs
were made at an iiitervahof eighteen
days, and I think the second one
gives a better idea of a matured tree
on a small scale than the former,
and certainly is more decorative in
appearance. From my own experi-
ence I think the greater number
of dwarf conifers one sees in dif-
ferent alpine gardens could with
advantage be so treated, except,
perhaps, the rigidly erect growing
ones. Of course, after a time —
varying with the age of each subject
dealt with — the <vires may be re-
moved, the branches having hardened
sufficiently in the desired positions
to so remain.

This method of procedure appe^u's
to open up a considerable avenue for
decorative treatment, at an insigni-
ficant cost, and will, I think, lead
to a more general use of these
charming little trees in our rock
gardens. Reginald A. Mai.bv.

[There arc many dwarf conifers
suitable for the rock garden, but
few are better adapted
to tin* work than Juni-
]:)ers. .Among others
should be mentioned
Picea pungens argentea
pendula, P. p. diversi-
nrientalis pygma?a, P. o.
Kamontii, Pinns montena.

P. Strobus prostrata, P. excelsa

dumosa, P. c. globosa nana. Thuya

dolabrata Lxtivirens, T. japonica

pygra,x>a, Tsuga canadensis pendula

and Cupressus obtusa nana.^ED. !

VIOLA FLORAIRENSIS.

.\ HYBRID between V. rothoraa-
gensis and V. calcarata was
found six years ago in our garden
here, and proved so superior
to anything else that we gave
it the name of Floraire. It is a
very low and rather creeping plant,
like V. saxatilis, but its flowers,
instead of being dark purple, are
pale lilac, with a light blue centre,
marked with fifteen or seventeen
dark stripes, and with a golden
eye. The flowers are large and
well formed, but the main charm ol
the plant is its long, or, rather, its
perpetual efflorescence. It flowers
here the whole year through. I
do not know another plant so
floriferous as this one and so
easy to cultivate. It sows itself
everywhere when once estab-
lished in a rockery.

H. CORREVON.

h'loraiye, near (tcneva.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

LILIES : A CAUSERIE.

SURELY there can be nothing worth saying
about Lilies that is unsaid. Poets and
lolk-lorists, writers of gardening books and
scientific botanists have, to speak figura-
tively, worn the poor things to death.
But to speak the open and shameful
truth, the gardeners have done the same murderous
deed, and, nothing ashamed, are ready to repeat
the treatment to fresh victims. It is this annual
slaughter of the innocents that makes me feel
I have a mission to fulfil, a plea to plead (one does
plead pleas, does one not r). I am as well qualified
for it as the Scotchman, who on his deathbed
advised his son thus : '• Honesty is the best policy,
Jeamie, 1 ken full well, for I hae tried both."
Many a Lily have I murdered with the assistance
of the Lily-poisoning soil and dry, scorching
summer .atmosphere of this garden, and therefore
I can warn. On the other hand, some pleasant
groupings of Lilies have apparently settled down
and so far improved from year to year that I feel
I may advise. Notice I write " apparently " and
'• so far." That is my epistolary method of
" touching «%6d." So often have sudden death
and total disappearance followed my boastings in
print of the glories of a fine specimen of some
rare plant that I must confess to an uncanny
feeling of dread in writing of successes, and a
superstitious hope that a carefully-expressed
diffidence of future prosperity may blind the Evil
Eye and preserve my darling from the palate ol

folia, r
nana. P

-THE SAME CONIFER AFTER THE BRANCHES HAD
BEEN TRAINED AS DESCRIBED IN THE ACCOM-
PANYING ARTICLE. NOTE THE NATURAL CONTOUR.

12

TitE GARDEN.

[January 4, 1913.

the slug. It is too true that hundreds of thousands !
ijj Lily bulbs reach this country annually, only to
flower and die. This is, in a great measure, due
to the nature and structure yf their bulbs. The
many scales of which they are composed are, in
fact, underground leaves, in which a great amount
of nutriment has been stored. They may be
compared with certain succulent plants, such as
the Aloes and .Agaves, which produce large fleshy
leaves of great size and weight, and for many_ years
continue to store up a reserve of food in them.
The Agaves at length use it all up in a mighty
effort of flowering and seeding, and then perish ;
but Aloes, Gasterias and such plants use but iittle
of the store when their roots are healthy and have
access to food and moisture, and
even form new leaves in a season
as well as produce flowers. Lilium
giganteum resembles the .\gave,
and after storing food for some
six or more years, exhausts it all
in one rapidly-growing flower-
stem. L. tenuifolium also natu-
rally flowers, seeds and dies ; and
though preventing its bearing seed
may prolong its life for another
season, that is all that can be
done, and it seems best to grate-
fully accept all the seed it will
give and, when ripe, to sow it — as
the Irishman said, " at once, or
sooner if possible." But most
Lilies follow the example of the
latter type of succulent plants,
and when healthy and in suitable
surroundings add annually to the
number of their bulb scales and
the general weight of nutriment.

Thus it happens that Lily bulbs
can be grown to a good size and
weight, and having so much food
stored in them, even after months
of knocking about on journeys and
in sale-rooms, are still alive and
capable of flowering in the foliow-
ing season, but they are invalids,
and without the treatment of a
convalescent home their brave
and cheerful display is at the ex-
pense of their strength, and their
_ label becomes a mere tomb-stone.

Therefore I warn and exhort
thus : If you cannot procure home-
grown sound bulbs in September,
but are tempted by the lower
prices of imported ones, measuring
as many inches round the chest
as the Fat Boy of Peckham, in
December, and wish to save their
lives and have some hope of
establishing them permanently in
your garden, you must pot or box
up the-bulbs in a mixture of sharp sand and leaf-soil,
keeping them in a cold frame or house until they
are well rooted, planting them in their permanent
homes in spring just before their stems appear above
ground ; and, most important of all, you must make
up your mind to forego the tirst season's flowers
and harden your heart to nip off all the tiny buds
as soon as they can be detached without injuring
the surrounding leaves. Otb.?rwise, I fear you must
be classed among the murderous horde of Lily
slayers, who squander their pelf on buying and
killing Lilies annually to make a gay garden.
Wallhttm Cross. ' E. A. Bowles.

(7'o Oe tontiiuied.)

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SOME GOOD PEAS TO ORDER NOW.

HE summer and early autumn of the year
that has just closed will long be remem-
bered as exceptionally good in most
localities for that best of all vegetables,
the Green Pea. Right away from the
earliest sowings until well on into Sep-
tember an abundance of pods were to be gathered in
most gardens, but owing to the excessive wet
experienced during the autumn, the seed crop in
many districts did not ripen so well as we might
have wished. For that reason there should be no

T

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^^^

Of %

FIRST-EARLY PEA MAYFLOWER, A GOOD FREE-CROPPING VARIETY
FOR LARGE OR SMALL GARDENS. (Much reduced.)

delay in ordering seed for sowing during the coming
season ; and with a view to guiding those who may
be in some doubt as to which sorts to purchase.
I propose to name those which did particularly
well with me, or which I had ample opportunity
of watching closely in other gardens.

First Earlies. — Previous to last year I had not
grown Carter's Eight Weeks, but so well did it
behave that it will certainly find a place in the
garden again this season. It is a very dwarf
and robust variety, exceptionally hardy, and one
of the freest cropping early Peas that I know.
Its quality, too, is excellent, Mayflower, sent out
by the same firm, follows Eight Weeks very closely,

and is a grand Pea in every respect. It grows
18 inches liigh and is really a wonderful cropper.
The accompanying illustration of a portion of
haulm will serve to show its cropping powers,
but, naturally, the pods are very much reduced
in size. Pioneer is an early Pea that I like very
much. It grows about three feet high, is very
hardy and early, crops freely, and is of excellent
flavour. Of similar height is Sutton's Ideal, a
beautiful dark green podded variety that crops
exceptionally well and is superb when cooked.
Sutton's May Queen is also a grand first-early
Pea of the taller section.

Second Earlies. — A splendid pair that come from
the Reading firm, and which belong to this section,
are Centenary and Prizewinner.
^ The first named is a grand Pea

for exhibition purposes and also
ol excellent quality, but with me
tt did not crop so heavily as
Prizewinner. This last named I
have grown regularly for seven
or eight years, and no matter
what the weather may be, it
always does well. It is of first-
class quality and a good all-round
Pea. A new second early that I
grew for the first time last year
was International, sent out by
Messrs. Carter and Co. Unfortu-
nately, birds crippled a portion of
the row, out that part which
escaped tlieir attention gave
splendid results. International is
undoubtedly a Pea that has come
to stay. It is a little on the tall
side, reaching a height of nearly
six feet, but it is a good cropper
and the quality leaves nothing to
be desired. Daisy, as usual, gave
good results. As a standard
second-early Pea of short stature,
Daisy will take a lot of beating.
The colour of the Peas is on the
pale side, but" tlic flavour is equal
to that of darkcr-hued sorts. Para-
gon Marrowfat and New Model,
sent out by Messrs. Webb, are
first-class second-early Peas, both
for exhibition .and general use.
The first named attains a height of
about three feet, and the latter
aDout a loot more. 1 know of no
prettier Pea when growing than
New Model.

Maincrop. — in this section,
Gladstone, though an old variety,
tully maintained its excellent repu-
tation. I have grown this variety
now for at least ten years and in
several differjnt kinds of soil, but
it always does well, and ils high
quality is invariably maintained. It is a sure winner
in the show tent, as the pods are well filled. It is
one of the best sorts for very late crops. King
George is a new variety that Messrs. Webb spnt
out last year, and of vxhich I had a good row. It
grows 5 feet high and is one of the best flavoured
Peas that I have grown. It did not pod quite
so freely as some other varieties, but this was
more than compensated by its high quality and the
fact that the pods were e.xceptionally well filled.
Dreadnought is a new variety that Messrs. Carter
made a great deal of stir about when they introduced
it a vear ago, and judging hy its results last season,
they were justified in doing so. .\ B. G

January 4, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

13

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO PROPAGATE CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

DHRING tlic oarly half of January and
(iiiuanls 1(1 the month of April,
I lovers of Chrysanthemums will be
' busy inserting cuttings so as to
secure good batches of plants for
the production of exhibition blooms,
specimen plants, pl.ants for greenhouse decoration,
for the supply of cut flowers, and for outdoor borders.
For every purpose, in order to be successful, the
cultivator should make a good and careful beginning.
He must use sound judgment in the selection of the
cuttings, the pots and the cimipost. It is a great
mistake to thijik that any kind of compost will do
lor rooting cuttings in : they retain the cutting soil
around their roots throughout the whole of their
growing season, and so we cannot have a compost
that is too good for them.

Selecting Cuttings. — Where there is a good I
selection, the best oidy must be put in. These are i
taken from the sucker shoots growing from the soil
in the pots, and not from the stems of the cut-hack
plants. Nos. i, i in Fig. A show good sucker
cuttings. They must be about three and a-hnlf
inches long ; if not so long at a given date it is
better to wait until they grow, rather than to cut off
the stems below the soil. Cuttings so severed
do not lorm roots freely. Nos. 2, 2 show stem
cuttings with buds. Only in the case of rare varieties
should suclr cuttings be used. They invariably
take a long time to grow free of bud formation,
which is often persistent during the spring months.
No. 3 shows a cutting free of buds but much too
weakly ; No. 4, a strong cutting containing a bud.
This kind is sometimes found among the sucker
shoots. No." 5 depicts the kind of cutting that must
he relied on to produce the best plants and blooms.
Compost, Pots and Boxes. — Fibrous loam, with
the linest parts passed through a small-meshed
sieve, sweet leaf-soil ami coarse sand should form

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

8

A

STURnV BASAL CUTTINGS ANO THOROUGHLY DRAINED P9TS OR
ESSENTIAL IN PROPAGATING CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

BOXES ARE

the compost ; loam two-thirds, leaf-soil one-
third, and sand to make it all very porous and
to induce healthy root-action. F"or exhibition
plants cuttings should be rooted in small, deep
pots singly. Others for decorative purposes and
for the garden border must be rooted in larger
pots, several cuttings in a pot, and in boxes. All
vessels and crocks must be clean. No. 6 shows
a cutting-pot crocked and the level of the surface
soil. No. 7 depicts the same pot .ind the way in
which the rutting is inserted with sand on the

//777777777'^'//?7^fe^^:)^/

Trr/77T777r'

WHEN l^LANTED, THE BASE OF THE CUTTING SHOULD REST FIRMLY ON THE SOIL,
AND THF; POTS THEN STOOD IN GENTLK HEAT.

surface and around the base of the cutting, No. 8,
the section of a box duly prepared for cuttings, and
No. 9 the drainage holes in the bottom of the box.
If holes are not made in the boards, the latter should
have spaces between them when nailed in position.

No. I in Fig. B shows how cuttings are
inserted round the edges of large flower-pots,
and No. 2 the way they are inserted singly in
small pots. A greenhouse temperature, or
that of a slightly warmed frame, is most
suitable for the cuttings ; they ought not to
be subjecied to .i strong bottom-heat. A small
frame put on the greenhouse stage, as shown
at No. 3, is an ideal place in which to propagate
Chrysanthemums. There is just sufficient heat
in a frame so placed, and excessive damp can be
expelled. In all kinds of weather such frames
may be opened a little every morning. When
sufficiently rooted the young plants may be trans-
ferred to another stage, as shown at No. 4. When
first repotted they should be placed on shelves
not far away from the roof-glass, as shown at
Nos. 5, 5. The air must be admitted from one side
of the roof only at one time, so as not to cause
cold draughts to blow on the newly potted plants.
If subjected to cold draughts, the leaves soon flag
and the growth is not satisfactory. No. 6 shows
a young plant sufficiently well rooted to be repotted
in a larger pot, and No. 7 depicts a plant rooted in a
box, at that stage when reboxmg or repotting is
desirable.

It is of the utmost importance in the cultivation
of Chrysanthemums to make a good beginning, and
this can only be accomplished by selecting sturdy
basal cuttings of the type above described. Cuttings
taken from the stems of cut-back plants are rarely
if ever a real success, and should only be used when
basal growths are scarce. The young plants must be
taken to cool frames before their stems become
drawn and weakened by being subjected to a too high
temperature as the longer days come. G. CI.

14

THE GARDEN.

[January 4, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The New Year. — In this, the hrst calendar of
gardenhig operations that I have written for The
Garden,! would emphasise the necessity of doing
all work at the right time and as well as time and
circumstances will allow. It may not happen that
particular plants, vegetables or fruit are in the
same condition in different gardens at any given
time or date, and some may not require potting
or attending to generally at the time they are
mentioned, but I hope that the notes will act as
useful reminders, which, after all, is their main
purpose. I hope to cover the whole routine of
gardening as far as space permits, though I may,
perhaps, be rather inclined to dwell a little on those
subjects in which I take a special interest.

Flower Garden and Pleasure Grounds.

Planting. — Having had what we may term a
fairly open autumn, all odd planting operations
should by now have been completed, though in
the case of extensive operations this may have to
go on for some considerable time. It is, however,
wise to push on all planting while the weather is
open, as even in the South we often get three or
four weeks' frost, which stops all such work for a
time, and the other kinds of ground work may be
carried on during spells of frost, when it is not a
good policy to be handling trees or shrubs.

Bulbs. — It often happens that the planting
of various kinds of bulbs has to be deferred till
alterations have been carried out in the borders
of pleasure grounds and wild gardens, but no time
should now be lost in getting the bulbs planted.
Many of the Mav-flowering Tulips and other late-
flowering bulbs will not have been injured by keeping
them out of the ground s6 long, but the earlier-
flowering TuUps and Narcissi will naturally suffer.
All odd' and small bulbs, whether newly bought
in or those that have been lifted from the beds or
borders during the past summer, may with advan-
tage be planted in the wild garden or on the borders
of woodland paths, and under such natural condi-
tions they often look and do well.

Plants Under Glass.

Cleaning Operations. — .\lter the festivities of
Christmas and the New Year, which, in many
instances, will have proved a drain on the plant-
houses, and consequently left some of them bare,
the opportunity should be taken to commence
cleansing operations, as these are much more easily
accomplished when a house or two can be quite
cleared of plants. The cooler and consequently
drier houses should be started on first, as they
will keep cleaner in appearance for a greater length
of time than will the stove and forcing houses,
and by leaving these latter till a little nearer the
spring, their cleanliness is assured during the summer
months.

Forcing-House. — To keep up a supply of flower-
ing plants and cut flowers during the spring months,
a batch of bulbs and other forcing plants must be
taken in each week, regulating this according to the
demand.

The Kitchen Garden.

Soil Preparation. — At this season there is very
little in the outside garden to be done, except in
the preparation of the soil for the forthcoming
crops ; but this will be sufficient, as, wherever
possible, all the ground should either be trenched
or bastard-trenched if the very best results are
to be obtained, On some soils such work can be
carried out at any time, but on close, sticky soils
it is well to do this in dry weather only, leaving
the surface as rough as possible, thus allowing it to
get the greatest benefit from the frost.

Fruits Under Glass.

Pot Vines that may have been started during
December will be rapidly swelling their buds, and
though a fair amount of humidity. and heat should
be kept up during the day, the night temperature
must not be too high, nor should there be an
e.vcessive amount of moisture at night, particularly
during severe frost, or the young foliage may be
injured by the drip from condensation.

Early Planted-Out Vines, such as Hamburgh

and Sweetwater, may now be shut up, maintaining
a temperature of about 50° to 55° till the buds

begin to push nicely, when the temperature can be
raised from 5° to 10°. A nice light spraying over-
head once or twice on all fine days will greatly
facilitate their breaking, and on dull days a
moistening of the paths and borders might suffice.

Late Vineries. — Any fruit that may be hanging
should be cut at once and bottled, afterwards
throwing the houses quite open for a few days
before proceeding to prune.

First-Early Peach-Houses.— The trees in these
are now being moved along gradually, and here
again a certain amount of humidity is necessary
to secure a nice free pushing of fruit and growth
buds. Very light sprayings at this season are
all that is necessary, varying the night tempera-
ture a little according to outside conditions.

Strawberries. — To secure an early crop, a batch
of these should be brought in from the frames,
where they should have been for some time past.
The shelf of a vinery or Peach-house will prove
a suitable position for them, the temperature of
the freshly-shut-up houses being about right for
them till the young foliage begins to push, when
the temperature may be considerably increased.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Planting. — .^ny filling up in the hardy fruit
garden that has not been done should be finished
off at once. In cold, heavy soil too deep planting
should be avoided, as it tends to unfruitfulness,
especially with Pears ; but in lighter soils a little
mistake of this sort is not quite so noticeable.
In all cases a careful spreading out of the roots
and good firm planting are imperative, the latter
tending to check the rampant growth which often
follows the planting of young fruit trees.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Sweet Peas. — We are now being inundated with
catalogues in general and Sweet Pea catalogues
in particular, and the work of selecting varieties
for the coming season's display cannot be long
delayed. The choice must be determined by the
ultiniate object in view. If for exhibition purposes,
the selection should include several of the best
up-to-d.ate varieties; if only tor general decorative
purposes, while quality must be kept in view,
the harmonising of colours is of prime importance.

Gladioli. — if not already attended to, the planting
of Gladioli of the Colvilleitype should be proceeded
with if weather permits. They delight in a light,
rich soil, and, not being quite hardy, they should
be protected with some loose material, such as
the stems of herbaceous plants which have been
recently cut over, till all danger of severe frost is
past. Plant about three inches deep.

Wallflowers. — These popular old favourites,
although almost hardy, often suffer during spells
of severe weather, especially when frosty winds
prevail. Spruce twigs stuck into the ground
thinly among the plants will help to break the
currents and prevent damage, or at least reduce
the extent of it.

The Rock Garden.
Snowdrops. — Where any of the rarer species
of Snowdrops, such as Galanthus cilicicus, G.
caucasicus and varieties of G. Elwesii, are planted
in the lower reaches of the rockery, they will soon
be showing flower, and if dirty weather is experienced
it will be worth whUe protecting a few of them at
least by placing bell-glasses or hand-lights over
them to keep the blooms clean.

The Shrubbery.

Garrya elliptica. — The male plant of this ever-
green shrub IS highly attractive with its long
catkin-like yellowish ' green flowers. It makes
a good wali plant, but here, on the shores of the
Firth of Forth, it thrives and flowers beautifully
as a shrubbery plant on heavy clay. It usually
comes into flower shortly after the New Year, but it
has been in bloom here since the end of November.

Viburniun Tinus, better known as Laurustinus,
IS oni< of our most imposing winter-flowering
shrubs. .Although the lully-developed white

flowers are not much in evidence till mid-winter,
the bright rosy tints of the unopened flowers make
a brave show from autumn onwards. The varietv
known as V. Tinus hirtum is more precocictus
than the type, flowering persistently from the
beginning of November onwards.

Pruning. — Deciduous shrubs, ornamental trees,
Rambler Roses and Clematises should be pruned
in the absence of frost. The pruning of Dogwoods
should be delayed, as winter is their chief season
of beauty. Clematises of the Jackmanii type
may be cut hard back, but those of the lanuginosa
type should only have the dead wood removed.

Plants Under Glass.

Chrysanthemums. — The work ol propagating
the decoratives and singles must now be proceeded
with at once. Cuttings of these are generally more
plentiful than is the case with the large-flowerinig
section. Pots 5 inches in diameter, liberally
drained and filled firmly with sandy soil, finishing
off with a layer of pure sand, form a suitable
medium for rooting. Dibble them in more
thickly than you would the exhibition varieties.

Japanese Varieties. — A greenhouse temperature
is all that is wanted, and unless the house is kept
rather close, they should be struck in cases covered
with sheets of glass. Remove the glass for an hour
daily, and invert it when replacing in position.
The cuttings should begin to root in about three
weeks, when the glass should be gradually tilted
up to admit air.

Tuberoses. — The bulbs of these delightfully
fragrant flowers are now to hand, and a portion of
them should be potted up and started forthwith.
Turfy loam, with some old cow-manure, leaf-mould
and sand, forms an ideal compost for them. One
bulb to a 5-inch pot, or three bulbs to a 6-inch pot,
will be found suitable. Plunge in a bottom-heat
of about 65° and give them as light a position as
possible, for they are naturally tall and inclined
to " draw." The'Pearl is the best variety.

Fruits Under Glass.

Strawberries. — .A batch may now be brought
indoors for early work. Where a house is not
specially provided for them. Strawberries can be
successfully forced along with other fruits, always
provided they are kept near the light and a suitable
temperature accorded to them. At this season
a shelf in an early Peach-house is an ideal position
for them.

Tomatoes. — The main crop should be sown
without delay. Sow thinly and regularly in well-
drained pots of rather light soU, covering the pots
with panes of glass till germination takes place.
Place the pots in a temperature of 55° or slightly
over that.

Hardy Fruits.

Pruning. — Finish up all pruning during open
weather. Small fruits may be pruned during
slight frosts ; it is cold work, but the improved
conditions under foot compensate for this.

The Kitchen Garden.

Digging. — Turn over all vacant ground so that
it may get weathered before spring. Trenching or
double-digging always pays for the extra labour.

Peas. — On all but very heavy soils a sowing of
Peas should now be made. Gradus is highly
popular, but I have a preference for William the
First Improved as a first variety ; it has a good
constitution and is earlier than Gradus, which can
follow at the end of the month. Coat the seeds
with red lead.

AsparS^US. — Where it is intended to make a
fresh plantation, the ground should now be pre-
pared. Deep cultivation is essential to success,
2i feet being none too deep, and I would fix 2 feet
as a minimum if good results are to be expected.
Where this is not available, the depth must be made
up by the addition of " travelled " soil. A free
root-run is also essential, so that where the natural
soil is at all heavy, sand should be incorporated with
it to lighten it . Being a seaside plant, the Asparagus
must have a certain amount of salt afforded to it,
and in gardens contiguous to the seashore this can
be given in the form of seaweed. It need hardly
be added that the ground should receive a liberal
allowance of organic manure.

Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Mid-
lothian.

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THE GARDEN.

15

TREES AND SHRUBS.

THE BEST SHRUBS FOR LOW WALLS.

THE existence of low walls, such as those
retaining terraces or surrounding some
portion of the pleasure grounds, are,
in my opinion, one of the most interest-
ing features of any garden, as growing
on such may usually be found some
shrubs that are not generally considered hardy
in the neighbourhood, but when given the
protection of a low wall, and particularly when
facing south or south-west, often grow luxuriantly
and make good specimens. One reason in par-
ticular is respoTisible for this, I think, viz., that the
footings of such a wall help to drain the soil.
On heavy soils wet is responsible for more failures
than actual frost. The locahty, again, plays an
important part in what can be grown, and it is
surprising how in one garden a plant thrives, and
in the adjoining one the greatest difficulty is ex-
perienced in keeping it alive.

Apart from all these indifferences, however,
there are a host of shrubs, comprising evergreen,
deciduous and flowering subjects, which may be
relied upon to grow without coddling ; and though
many are not climbers in the true sense of the
word, yet they are easily secured to a low wall
with little trouble and without losing their
character. Lack of space will not permit of my
dealing with the various subjects at any length ;
I will, however, deal with them alphabetically,
and those included are generally acknowledged to
be hardy unless otherwise stated.

Abelia chinensis. — A good subject for a low
wall ; a deciduous shrub with attractive foliage
and pretty pink flowers. Of neat and bushy habit,
and though not quite hardy is, nevertheless, well
adapted tor such a position.

Actinidia cbinensis. — A true climber, of fairly
recent introduction, and quite hardy here at
Aldenham trained to poles without the least
protection. If the growths are trained horizontally,
this is a fine deciduous subject. The young growths
are particularly attractive, and will easily cover
a large area if so desired.

Aloysia (Lippia) citriodora. — This, in favoured

localities, is well worth a position on a wall, giving
shelter from hard frosts during the winter. It is
too well known as the Scented Verbena for any
further description.

Ampelopsis. — Several varieties of this genus are
indispensable for such a site, especially the smaller-
leaved varieties. A. Lowii is one of comparatively
recent introduction, and especially suited for a low
wall. It is of deciduous growth, self-supporting
and turns a grand colour in the autumn. A.
sempervivens is an evergreen of dense habit with
green foliage, and is particularly suited for low
walls, being of slow growth compared with many
of the other creepers belonging to this genus.
Requires protection. A. Veitchii is one of the most
attractive and colours well, though, of course, it is
also suitable for a much larger area than a low wall.

Azara microphylla. — A Chilian shrub, but

without doubt perfectly hardy in our ordinary
winters, even without the protection of a wall. It
is evergreen, with shining, neat fohage, and the
flowers, though minute, are produced thickly in
the spring, and emit a pleasing aroma easily de-
tected when one is near. Suitable for any aspect
except north.

feBerberis Daiwinii. — This well-known Barberry
is a good evergreen subject for planting in a cold

aspect. The foliage is at all times attractive, and
the beauty of the plant is further enhanced in
spring when in flower.

Berberis stenophylla, though somewhat spoilt
in its graceful habit when planted against a wall,
may be similarly employed.

Berberis Fremontii is a charming species hailing
from the Southern United States, and is generally
found either on a wall or planted as a bush on the
rockery. It is of comparatively slow growth, and
likes a warm position. Several others of this
family might be similarly tried, with, I should
imagine, good effect.

Berchemia racemosa variegata. — This plant is
most attractive, and might be taken for anything
but a hardy climber, so dehcately marked and
variegated are its ovate leaves. A plant here makes
good growth each season. Likes a warm position.

Bridgesia spicata syn. Ercilla. — A tightly-
clinging evergreen climber, perfectly hardy here
on an east aspect, and one that ought to be more
commonly employed for clothing low walls and on
houses.

Carpenteria californica. — .\ most beautiful
evergreen with flowers resembling Anemone
japonica alba, but needs a sheltered position in
a district not too cold.

Ceanothus. — Several of these are well suited for
culture on walls, but the palm must be given to
Gloire de Versailles, a beautiful variety, very per-
sistent in flowering.

Choisya ternata. — One that must not be for-
gotten. A beautiful evergreen commonly known
as the Mexican Orange Flower. Further de-
scription is unnecessary.

Colletia cruciata, commonly known as the
.\nchor Plant on account of its curiously shaped,
flattened branches, is none too hardy unless given
the protection of a wall. It is of slow growth, and
particularly attractive when in bloom, the white
flowers being produced from old and new wood
alike.

Corokea Cotoneaster. — This quaint shrub might
be mcluded on a wall, and especially in cold
localities, though we find it hardy here in the open.
Nevertheless, it is an intensely interesting subject,
and well worth a position among choice wall shrubs.

Cotoneasters. — Among these are some of the best
subjects imaginable for low walls, being of close
growth, and particularly ornamental when in fruit.
C. adpressa, C. congesta, C. horizontalis and C.
microphylla are well worth recommending.

Crataegus Pyracantha. — Fine in autumn and
winter when freely berried, but if allowed to go
will cover a great space in time, though not a rapid
grower. It bears cutting back with impunity.

CrinodendroD Hookeri. — An evergreen from
Chih, and unless in very favonred spots is best
placed at the foot of a wall. It has drooping scarlet
flowers, freely produced on the sm.allest plants,
and is one of our choicest shrubs.

Cydonias. — The various species and varieties of
Japanese Quinces, which produce flowers of vary-
ing colours in early spring. C. japonica, C. nivalis
and C. Mauler are all excellent.

Elaeagnus. — Among these we have several
varieties with variegated evergreen foliage, which
renders them most attractive at all seasons.

Escallonias include E. philippiana (white-
flowered), E. macrantha (crimson) and the hybrid
E. langleyensis (bright rose). They are some of
the best and most beautiful of our evergreen
climbers, or, I should say, wall shrubs.

Euonymus radicans Silver Gem is one of our

most accommodating wall plants. Beautiful at all
seasons, and will thrive almost anywhere.

Fabiana imbricata. — This evergreen shrub much
resembles a Heath, and, though not hardy, is worth
trying against a sheltered wall. Flowers highly
attractive during summer.

Forsythia. — F. suspensa and F. viridissima,
though generally found as bush shrubs, do remark-
ably well on a wall, and are wonderfully attractive
in spring with their golden yellow flowers.

Garrya elliptica. — Intereeting at all seasons,
also when in flower and fruit. Being dioecious,
both sexes should be planted.

Hederas, or Ivies. — The smaller-leaved varie-
ties, such as H. argentea variegata, H. aurea
spectabilis, H. caenwoodiana, H. minima piixpurea
and H. maderiensis variegata are all useful.

Hydrangea scandens, or H. petiolaris, has large,
flat corymbs of white flowers, and H. quercifolia
is another species, from the States, with attractive
Oak-leaved foliage in addition.

Jasminums, both J. nudiflorum and J- officinale,
the white-flowered, may be used, also J. revoluta.

Lardizabala biternata. — This evergreen stands
well with us, and is worth a position for its large
evergreen foliage.

Lonicera japonica aureo - reticulata (with
variegated foliage veined with gold), L. £ra-
grantissima (very early flowering, deliciously
fragrant) and L. sempervirens (with scarlet
flowers) are three to be thoroughly recommended,
the latter being none too hardy, but worth a little
care.

Muehlenbeckia complexa. — For a low wall this
shrub might be used, though we grow it on the
rock garden ; but wherever it may be appor-
tioned is a very interesting subject.

Myrtles. — One or two of these are general
favourites on a sheltered position, especially
M. Ugni.

Rapbiolepis japonica. — .A choice evergreen with
sweetly-scented clusters of pure white flowers.

Veronica Iiulkeana. — A glorious plant where it
does well. Likes a south or south-west wall, and
must have adequate protection during the winter.

The foregoing list is by no means exhaus-
tive, as I have purposely refrained from mention-
ing many because of their undoubted hardiness,
and also because their freedom of growth certainly
suggests that they require more space in which
to display their beauty and true character.
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. E. Beckett.

NURSERY NOTES.

ANNUALS AT MESSRS. GARTER'S"
TRIAL GROUNDS, RAYNES PARK.

FOR some time now the extensive establish-
ment of Messrs. James Carter and Co.,
so long identified with High Holbom,
has arrested the attention of travellers
on the South Western Line, near
Raynes Park Station. The huge and
imposing building, with its vast labour-saving
machinery (despite which, however, quite an army
of workpeople find accommodation therein), has
been before now exhaustively dealt with, though
even to this additions are continually being made.
Smrounding the building on three sides are the
extensive trial grounds, of which their twenty acres
or so are about equally divided between flowers

16

THE GARDEN.

[January 4, 1913.

and vegetables. These grounds being as they
purport to be for trial purposes, one does not meet
with huge stretches of any particular kind, but
rather to the proving of Messrs. Carter's numerous
specialities or the testing of any stocks that may be
submitted to them. Some of these last will need
a certain amount of rogueing before they are up
to the " Holborn " standard, but with regard to
the firm's specialities one cannot fail to be struck
with the uniform nature of the plants in the difierent
rows and the high class of the flowers them-
selves. At the time of our visit in early
September some of the annuals were past their
best, among thera being the Sweet Peas, Stocks
and the different forms of Candytuft. Of this
last, however, there stili remained sufficient to
show the great supci 4ority of the Hyacinth-
flowered forms over the old-fashioned type. The
massive heads and brilliant colour of Rose Cardinal
appeal to everyone.

Nemesias were also much in evidence. Carter's
large-flowered strain at once arresting atten-
tion by reason of the size of the individual blooms
as well as by theur richness of colouring and
the fact that many of them possess quite distinct
tiger-like markings. The pretty little Forget-me-
not-like variety. Blue Gem, though quite a miniature
compared with some of the others, is very generally
admired.

Second to none in its gorgeous mass of colour was
a bed of a distinct variety of the common Marigold,
namely, Cocade Orange, the large double flowers,
about four inches in diameter, being of a rich deep
orange and borne in the greatest profusion. The
distinct Meteor, lemon, striped with orange, was
also in fine condition. From the ordinary kind
being so common, many people have a prejudice
against the Marigold as a decorative subject for the
flower garden ; but the sight of a batch of Cocade
Orange would probably lead to an altered opinion.
The French Marigolds, too, are very fine, and show
a wide range in colour and in marking.

Vying with the Marigold in brightness of colour-
ing stand out the several varieties of Eschscholtzia,
to- the improvement of which Messrs. Carter have
of late years devoted a good deal of attention.
The result of their labours are to be seen in the
richly-coloured Carmine King and The Mikado,
while the blush-tinted Dainty Queen is a decided
break away.

Blue flowers are admired by many, and this
colour is freely represented in innumerable shades,
promment among them being Delphiniums of
sorts, the Nigellas, especially that charming variety
Miss Jekyll ; the daintily-tinted Nemophilas, the
tiny lonopsidium acaule and the varied forms
of Lobelia speciosa. While these last have for the
most part flowers of some shade of blue, two
striking departures therefrom are White Queen
and Prima Donna, this last being the finest rich
red variety that has evei come under our notice.

Nasturtiums, too, were a blaze of colour,
the dwarf varieties especially. A notable feature
of them is the wide range in colour that now exists,
and also how true the different forms come from
seed. For hot, dry soils especially the merits of
these for the summer eintellishment of the flower
garden might be considered more than they .arc
now. It is interesting to note that the dwarf
Nasturtiums were first introduced by Messrs.
Carter and Co.

The old-fashioned race of Cosmos, with its
blossoms like single Dahlias, used to flower too late
in the season for them to be of any great service,
but there is now an earlier-flowering race of great

value. Messrs. Carter have the old and the new
type planted side by side, one being full of
flower while the other has not yet any blooms
expanded.

■ Mignonette is largely grown, and in a mass the
different tones of colour in the white, golden and
red kinds are far more striking than when only
considered in single spikes. Of these varieties
White Queen, Golden Queen and Red King are
very noticeable. One of the showiest beds was
planted with Mallow Pink, Domino ana White
Lady, the former having large, rose-coloured
blossoms, and the other pure white, both with a
pleasing silky texture.

Verbenas are largely raised from seeds, and so
thoroughly are they selected that they come remark-
ably true when increased in this way.

It is impossible to deal individually with the many
subjects represented, but there were fine examples
of Alyssum, Antirrhinum, Asters, Coreopsis, Cen-
taurea. Chrysanthemum (annual), Clarkias, Dian-
thus, everlastings of sorts, Godetia, Larkspur,
Lavatera, Linaria, Linum, Pansies, Petunia, Phlox
Drummondii, Salpiglossis, Scabious, Viscaria,
Zinnia and others.

While the foregoing include what may be regarded
as the more generally-grown annuals, there are a
lew that arrest attention by reason of their attrac-
tiveness and the fact that they are very seldom
seen. Among them are Abronia umbellata, a
trailer with clusters of pretty pink blossoms ;
Argemone grandifiora, pure white Poppv-like
flowers ; Arctotis grandis, Marguerite-like, white
and purple ; Dimorphotheca aurantiaca, orange
apricot, better than the newer hybrid kinds ;
Eutoca viscida, bell-shaped flowers, rich blue ;
Kaulfussia araelloides, bright blue ; Phacelia
campanularia, whose thimble-like blossoms are of a
delightful shade of gentian blue ; Platystemon
californicus, soft yellow ; and Thunbergia alata.
orange, dark throat.

A FEW PERFECT ROSES.

WHEN is a Rose perfect ? When
it has scent, good formation,
colour and size. A friend of mine
wants a selection of perfect Roses.
She wants to go into her gar-
den and cut Roses she will be
proud to own ; Roses that will make their presence
felt in any room they adorn. She will not waste
energy on varieties that will not give thanks in
fragrant or shapely blooms, and I think readers
will be interested in the list I have given her.

Arthur R. Goodwin. — This has blooms of various
size, some really large, poised on sturdy stems
amid thick, graen, leathery foliage, showing up
the coppery orange blooms, the centre radiating
a deeper glow that spreads over the whole bloom.
It is very sweetly scented and the plant has a
spreading habit of growth.

Mme. Melanie Soupert.— This superb Rose
once seen is never forgotten. It is not very full,
but a large, deep-petalled bloom, yellowy cream,
with a fusion of pale pink over the whole, sometimes
more intense than at others, the edge of the petals
taking on a faint carmine, especially when grown
as a standard. Can be cut with very long stems.

Marquise de Sinety. — Recently classed with
"Roses with Bad Habits" because of its poor
colour. This quite puzzled me, as my blooms are
always very deep golden yellow, with a Roman

ochre centre, and some of the deeper blooms give
one the idea of a sun having set in the middle of
the flower. I admit it is not a good shape, but if
the blooms are cut young and the outer petals
nicely arranged it is splendid.

Mrs. Aaron Ward. — In this we have one of those
useful all-round Roses ; a delightful bud opening
a very deep apricot, specially free-blooming, with
bronze foliage, and few have any idea how good it
comes under glass until they have grown it in
their own Rose-house.

Sunburst, — An orange yellow Hybrid Tea, very
free-blooming ; long, exquisitely-shaped blooms,
with delicious scent ; useful for any purpose and
absolutely superb under glass.

Miss Alice de Rothschild.— A pale yellow,
large, perfectly-formed, high-centred Tea, always
in bloom and one of the best we have.

Alexander Hill Gray is the largest Tea, a well-
formed yellow, being particularly fresh m colour
during the dull weather. Ideal for any purpose.

Mrs. Foley Hobbs is one of the high-flowered
type of Teas ; ivory white, with a very faint
pink that is hardly noticeable on the edge of the
petals. One of the " great " Roses.

Lady Greenall. — A long-petalled Hybrid Tea,
each petal perfectly arranged from a high centre.
One of the best of the newer Roses. Colour,
creamy saffron yellow.

Herzogin Maria Antoinette. — An intense real
orange Tea with a crimson splash on the outer
petals ; medium sized, sweetly scented, growth
of spreading habit, and never out of bloom all
through the season.

Mrs. Fred Straker. — A long - pointed bud ;

colour, a blend of silvery fawn and faint orange ;
very charming.

Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt. — Large creamy
white, shaded with rose pink. One of those sohd,
reliable blooms, opening well.

Souvenir de Maria de Zayas.— This has every
petal artistically arranged from a high-pointed
centre, very prettily formed, growing on long,
stiff stems ; a pleasing shade of crushed strawberry ;
sweetly scented.

Other varieties are Mjne. Abel Chatenay, Eliza-
beth Barnes, Mine. Segond Weber, Mrs. Herbert
Hawksworth, Mrs. Herbert Stevens, Entente
Cordiale, Irish Beauty, British Queen, The Lyon
Rose and Irish Elegance.

Now we come to shades of red. Hugh Dickson
and J. B. Clark must both be grown as tall pillars.
They are never so happy as when they are allowed
to roam at will, and they give some splendid blooms,
the latter without the split centre. Chmbing
Richmond and the famous George Dickson, with
Red Letter Day, must have a place, as well as
King George V., M. Jules Gravereaux, Florence
Haswell Veitch and the charming Mrs. Edward
Powell.

To complete our garden we must have arches,
pergolas, banks and hedges of Roses, for which I
suggested the following : Una will give yards of
creamy white, semi-double blooms, very useful for
cutting ; Mrs. O. G. Orpen and Dawn, two pink
singles, the latter blooming all through the season ;
Dorothy Perkins, White Dorothy, Dorothy Denni-
son, Excelsa, Jersey Beauty, Shower of Gold,
Paul's Sylvia, American Pillar, Miss Hellyett
(one 01 the largest of the wichuraianas), Carmine
Pillar and Flower of Fairfield. Juliet and Beauty
de Lyon, of the famous pernetiana section, complete
my list. E. E. F.

jifevi.

J^'VST'^-

GARDEN. I

-z=^=-

"^-^^^m

No. 2147.— Vol. LXXVIL

January ii, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes of the Wkek 17 ,
coreespondenoe

Fragrant Chrysanthe-
mums 19

Two early English

flower books . . . . 19
The flower garden in

winter 19

Forthcoming events . . 19
<J.\RDEsiNa Acrostics 19
Prizes for the Best

Rook Gardens . . 19
Greenhouse
The raisin-,' of Orchitis
from seeil . . , . 20
Rock and Water Garden
How to make and plant
a streamside sarrten 20
Rose Garden
Notes on the newer

Roses 21

Gardens of To-Day
Bopctoun House, Lin-
lithgo\v-;hire .. . . 22
Trees and Shrubs
Cultural hints on new
and rare plants .. 23

Trees and Shrubs
The Deciduous Cy-
press 23

Flower Garden
Lilies : A causerie . . 23
Reno vat ing h e r b a -

ceous border? . . 24
A hardy Bear's Breech 21
Gakdbninq for Beoinners
Pruning and cleaning

Grape Vines . . . . 25
How to sow Begonia

seeds 25

Gardemno of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 26

For Northern gar-
dens 26

Horticultural
Changes in Thirty-
pour Years .. .. 27
Silver trophy for ama-
teurs'rock gardens.. 27
Answers to Corre-
SPO ndents
Flower garden . . , . 27
Greenhouse . . . , 28
Rose garden . . . . 28

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

ILI.nSTRATIONS.

Rhoiaden-iron daurioura at Kew 18

How to prepare pots for Orchid seeds 20

How to make and plant a streamside garden .. .. 21

Tile large herbaceous lx)rder at Hopetoun House . , 22

A state! V tree of tile Deoidiious Cypress 23

Acanthus mollis 24

Pruning and cleaning Grape Vines 25

The Qarence Elliott Trophy 27

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
Invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

TAe Editor welcome photographs, articies and notes,
fmt he will not be responsible tor their safe return. All
reasonable care, hoioemr, ivill be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he toill endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, i/ payment be desired, the Editor
atks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner 0/ the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence thai an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
be recognised as accentance.

Olficts : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

Lily Bulbs from Japan.— As an indication of
the vast quantities of Lily bulbs that are annually
imported to this country from Japan, we may
mention that one ship which arrived in London
last week from Yokohama brought over no fewer
than +,000 cases.

Sir Frank Crisp. — Among the list of New
Year Honours we were pleased to see that a
baronetage had been conferred upon Sir Frank
Crisp. His famous rock garden at Friar Park,
Henley-on-Thames, is known to lovers of alpine
plants in all parts of the world, and in our issue
for October 26, 1912, we presented a coloured
plate of a portion of it. Sir Frank is president of
the Horticultural Club and takes an active interest
in its work.

Oak-Leavod Primulas. — Quite a distinct break
ill the Chinese Primulas from any others in com-
merce are those possessing leaves almost identical
mth th053 of the Oak-leaved Geranium. In many
instances the flowers, although set rather low,
are beautifully double, and they are invariably
produced in great profusion. A variety with
clear salmon-shaded flowers is most pleasing,
particularly early in the year, when even green-
house flowers are none too plentiful.

Rambler Roses over Rustic Poles. — .A few

days ago we saw an effective method of growing
some of the stronger-growing Rambler ; Roses,
such as .A.merican Pillar. Some rough, slightly-
branched poles about nine feet high had been
firmly thrust into a circular lawn bed, wigwam
fashion, and around and outside these the Roses
had been planted, the growth nearly hiding the
supports. The effect when the Roses are in bloom
can easily be imagined, and the method has the
merits of being simple and inexpensive.

Ground Plants for Fuchsias in Beds. — For
bedding, some of the dwarfer Fuchsias are very
well adapted, but the effect is often destroyed
by the unsuitability of some of the flowers chosen
as carpeters or for groundwork. We have found
nothing better for dark Fuchsias than plants of
the old double white Pink, whose glaucous foliage
in itself forms an admirable setting for the Fuchsias,
and which is not reduced in value in the slightest
by its flowers. For light Fuchsias the dwarfest
blue Ageratums are as good as anything we can
have. These plants were largely used by an
experienced gardener years ago, and we have seen
nothing better as yet to supersede them.

The Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides.) —

It is not generally known that this beautiful sea-
shore shrub produces male and female flowers on
different plants. Needless to say, the male flower-
bearing plants do not produce berries ; at the same
time, it is advisable to have a male plant in the
vicinity to obtain a good display of berries among
those shrubs bearing female flowers. An even better

method is to graft branches of the male upon the
berry-producing shrubs, and thus ensure a free
distribution of pollen at the time of flowering.
The Sea Buckthorn is a native of our seashores,
though it is equally happy in inland gardens.

Delphiniums and Slugs. — In common with
many other plants, the Delphiniums are com-
mencing to grow, owing to the unusual mUdness
of the season. The crowns of the plants are swelling,
and although they will not be seriouslydamaged
by frosts later on, there is considerable danger
from slugs. We have seen plants partially ruined
by slugs eating away the young crowns. Readers
who now find the crowns quite bare, owing to
their being so washed by the rains, should 'place
some fine ashes on them to a depth of i inch or
rather more.

Hardy Heaths in Midwinter. — Owing in a
large measure to the exceptionally mild weather,
hardy Heaths are flowering much earUer this winter
than usual. In our gardens just now Erica
mediterranea hybrida, with E. codonodes or
E. lusitanica, are the most beautiful, the rose
pink flowers of the former and the white ones of
the latter being much appreciated. E. camea
and its white variety alba are also flowering freely ;
the type is the best for a bold display. Closely
allied to the true Ericas is the Ling, Calluna vulgaris,
and the white-flowered form of this, commonly
known as white Heather, is full of flower-buds
that are far enough advanced to give the bed quite
a white appearance. .K\\ hardy Heaths should be
planted in colonies.

Two Showy Greenhouse Plants.— An effective

combination of two rather uncommon plants was
noted recently in the greenhouse at Kew. The
plants were the Mexican Jacobinia chrysostephana
and the Brazilian Tibouchina semidecandra.
The latter species was grown in bush form, the
individual plants being 2 feet to 2\ feet high, and
composed of five or six main branches well fur-
nished with short branchlets, from which the large
purple flowers were freely borne. Jacobinia
chrysostephana was represented by bushy plants
about eighteen inches high, each branch being
terminated by a head of orange-coloured flowesr.

" The Orchid Review." — This monthly
journal of orchidology is now entering its twenty-
first year. The first issue appeared in January,
1893, when it was established to supply a long-felt
want among amateurs of Orchids, viz., a journal
devoted to their special interests. Every branch
of orchidology, including cultivation, evolution,
structural peculiarities, natural distribution and
the vexed question of hybrid nomenclature, has
been discussed and continues to be discussed
in the pages of " The Orchid Review." The import-
ance of this extremely useful work is fully recog-
nised and appreciated by Orchid experts, and while
wishing it every success in the future, we take
this opportunity of congratulating Mr. R. A.
Rolfe, A.L.S., the editor, on the success he has
achieved.

18

THE GAEDEN.

[January ii, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The

Editor is not- responsible for the
expressed by correspondents.)

opinions

Camellias in the Open. — Reading Mr. S.

Arnott's notes on " Camellias in the Open," page 646
of The Garden for December 28, I thought perhaps
it would be of interest to others to know that we
have here a tree of C. nobilissima now in flower,
and which has been flowering off and on for the
past six weeks. It has had as many as three dozen
blooms expanded at one time. It is about one and
a-half miles from the sea. — J. S. Higgins, Glynllivon
Gardens. Carnarvon.

Plants Flowering Out of Season. — Amid the
many plants now flowering out of season, the most
remarkable here is, I think, the
common Cowslip, which does not
flower in a natural way until April.
In a wood on a hill having a north
aspect, flowers were picked from
two plants on December 17. My
Christmas Roses of the altifolius
variety growing at the foot of a
south wall were all over before
Christmas Day. My first flower of
Iris stylosa was gathered on
December 20, which is not an
unusually early date for that
variety. — E. Molyneux, Swanmore
Park.

Two Winter-flowering Honey-
suckles.— All who appreciate per-
fume in flowers — and who does not ?
— shoiild grow the Bush Honey-
suckle, Lonicera fragrantissima,
which is now in flower in many
places. Old specimens will often
attain a height of from 7 feet to
8 feet, and it is a pleasant surprise,
on a calm day, to enter the zone
of fragrance, many yards in extent,
created by such a shrub, every shoot
studded with small ivory white
blossoms, deliciously scented.
Though by no means a showy shrub,
it is far from being devoid of
beauty, its shoots being freely set
with small white blooms. Sprays
in flower when cut and brought into
the house will fill the living-rooms
with delicious perfume for many
a day. This Honeysuckle is classed
as an evergreen, but when exposed
to cutting %vinds and severe frost it
often loses its foliage. L. Standishii
is a very similar species, bearing
small white, sweet-scented flowers ;
but where only one is grown, L.
fragrantissima is preferable. — Wyndham Fitz-

HERBERT.

Narcissus pallidus praecox. — Turning up an
old copy of The Garden dated igor, I find a
note of mine in praise of Narcissus pallidus prtecox,
and I have not altered my opinion. My first
flowers of it opened under glass the last week
in December, and.outside it had at that time burst
its spathe. No Daffodil here ever opens so early,
whether protected or not, and that I suppose is
its chief charm to those to whom the Daffodil
appeals. It is a variable and capricious plant
from several points of view. For instance, in potting
it, it is futile to put more than one bulb in a pot,
for the flowers open at all sorts of times, and no

two flowers seem of quite the same pattern. Then,
again, it is delicate in constitution, and the bulbs
here seem to disappear after a season or two ;
but it seeds freely and, if planted in places where
the seedlings have a chance of germinating and
remaining undisturbed, one gets a successional
supply of this pretty little Pyrenean Narcissus
without the trouble entailed by successive replant-
ings. — F. Herbert Chapman, i?yc.

Rhododendron dauricum at Christmas. — Very

rarely has this Rhododendron been seen to such
great advantage as during the present winter, the
mild weather and almost total absence of frost
during the three or four weeks immediately pre-
ceding Christmas being exactly what was wanted
to allow it to open its flowers, so that throughout
Christmas Week it was a mass of rosy purple flowers.

^^% ..^.-H^

Ws^^^X^Sm

r ■ "".■ -;■*■ -'"'MmrFffarfyrr- ■-

RHODODENDRON DAURICUM, PHOTOGRAPHED IN THE ROCK GARDEN
AT KEW ON DECEMBER 26, I9I2.

and certainly one of the showiest of outdoor plants.
Quite recently a fine group in full flower was noted
between the Palm House and Temperate House at
Kew, while other well-flowered examples were seen
in the rock garden. An illustration of one of these,
from a photograph taken on Boxing Day, is given
herewith. R. dauricum is a native of Dahuria,
Mandshuria and Sachalin, and, coming from a
cold region, a spell of mild weather in midwinter
causes it to begin to open its flowers very early
in this country ; therefore they often fall a prey
to frost before they can all expand. Nevertheless,
it is a good ktad to plant, for in those seasons when
it does escape injury it adds a bright touch of
colour to the garden at a very dull season. There

are several forms of the plant, some having deciduous
leaves, and in other cases the leaves are evergreen
or sub-evergreen. — D.

Greenhouse Eupatoriums. — The Eupatoriums,
referred to by " H._ P.," page 646, issue Decem-
ber 28, are extremely valuable for the conservatory
and greenhouse, furnishing during the autumn and
winter months, or, at least, until Christmas is well
past. They are very useful to amateur cultivators,
as the plants can be grown in pots in the open air,
just like Chrysanthemums, during the summer
months. Unstopped plants yield very fine heads
of flowers ; plants stopped branch out freely and
form nice bushes, being serviceable in this way as
well as for yielding cut blooms for vases. — B.

Lewisias Cotyledon and' Howellii.^lt would

be of value to many if Mr. Stormonth. whose note
appears on page 2, January 4 issue,
would tell us how long the Lewisias
named above have been hardy in
his nursery. His is not the usuai
experience, even in places much
further South than Cumberland. So
far as regards the habitats of L.
Cotyledon, the authority of the
" Index Kewensis " supports the
statement by your contributor on
page 365 (December 21) that these
are in California. It is, however,
satisfactory to learn that the above
come from Alaska also, and it is
quite likely that plants from
that habitat will stand our winters
better than those from further
.South. L. Tweedyii, which comes
from Oregon, may perhaps live for
a time at Kirkbride also; but one
would like to learn precisely what
species have stood the winter in the
open for a series of years in Mr.
Stormonth's most interesting nur-
sery, which is, by the way, in a mild
district for the county in which it
lies. — S. Arn'ott.
Propagating Polygonum bald-

SChuanicum. — In your issue of
December 21 last it is said of this
climber that " both cuttings and
layers are somewhat erratic in their
behaviour." Is it meant that they
are difficult to strike ? I have only
had one experience of it, which was
as follows : Last ."^pril I took thir-
teen cuttings of the young growth,
each taken with a heel. These I
placed in a pot in sandy loam, and
from them obtained a dozen strong
plants, several of which made
growths of over twelve feet last
summer. The plan I adopt for
striking cuttings is as follows : Insert the cuttings
in a pot in the ordinary way. Then place the pot
in a larger empty pot. This pot should be so much
larger that the tops of the cuttings are beneath
its rim. A sheet of glass is then placed on the top,
so making a sort of propagating-case. I find the
cuttings strike with remarkable freedom in this
contrivance. On one occasion cuttings of double
Gorse had made roots over three inches long within
a week, and that in an unheated greenhouse in
summer. — Walter de H. Birch, W-alton-le-daU,
Lancashire. [Our correspondent has been successful
in his efforts. Sometimes cuttings root quite easily,
and at others are difficult to strike successfully.
—Ed.]

January ii, 1913]

THE GARDEN.

19

Fragrant Chrysanthemums.— Frnra my experi-
ence the single-flowered variety Mrs. Langtry l^
quite the Strongest in perlunie, and pleasing
as well. This variety was very popular two
ducades ago. , It is especially free in flower
and grows vigorously in quite a small pot. —
!•. M.

Two Early English Flower Books.— In reply to

tlie Rev: 1. Jacob's request lor inlorraation, page C52,
issue December 28, 1912, Roa styles himself a gentle-
man, vide title - page of his book, " John Rea,
gent." He seems not to have owned any property ;
at least, he rented the tenement at Kinlet, and some
land he cultivated he had on lease, and probably
lived on the profits from the latter. His garden
he made himself, with the assistance of labourers.
It has been thought by some that in the produc-
tion of the poetry which distinguishes his book, his
son-in-law, the Rev. Samuel Gilbert, had a more
important share than those who helped him had
in garden-making. Anyhow, he had the pleasure
of seeing his initials appended to one effusion.
The book appears in " Horticultural Bibliography "
under two titles — by that given it by Mr. Jacob,
which is really a sub-title for Part I., and by that
on the engraved frontispiece, " Flora, Ceres and
Pomona," which is the better, as it indicates the
purpose of the volume. My copy has in the
second title ("Flora seu et Florum Cultura")
the name of Nath. Brook as publisher ; the first
title and the other sub-titles that of Richard
Maniot. It is bound in the same style as Evelyn's
•'Sylva" of 1664. The second edition, it may be
added, contains fuller lists of some plants than the
first. — R. P. Brotherstqn.

The Flower Garden in Winter. — In reference

to the plants mentioned on page 2 of your last
number, I have the following in flower in the open :
Iris reticulata Krelagei, Hepaticas, Leucojum
vernum (Snowflake), Chionodo.xa sardensis. Rhodo-
dendron racemosum, Cheiranthus alpinus, Anemone
sylvestris, Arabis albida flore pleno, Chiraonanthus
fragrans, Crocuses (three species), Adonis amurensis.
Campanula grandis, Primula denticulata, Spirsea
Thunbergii, and Pyrus japonica (four varieties).
In a day or two Saxifraga apiculata. S. Elizabetha\
a strong spike of Delphinium (variety King of
Delphiniums), three spikes on a plant of Lupinus
polyphyllus and a big bush of Kerria japonica
should be in full flower. Last week I had a Rasp-
berry cane in bloom, and I can any day cut some
thick sticks of .\sparagus growing in the open
without any adventitious aid. Walking round a
neighbour's garden to-day, I noticed, among others,
a yellow Carnation in flower, also an Erigeron,
.Achillea tomentosa, Statice tartarica and a big
group of Erica arborea. By the water's edge
Caltha polypetala had half-a-dozen fully-expanded
flowers, and, close by, a Water Lily had five bloom-
buds on it. On a south wall Ceanothus Veitchii
was a mass of bloom-buds, which should open,
if the present weather lasts, in about ten days'
time. My wichuraiana Roses have basal shoots
on them which one would be proud to see in July.
It will go hard with these if severe frost comes.
Just now it is not a question of what is in flower,
but what is not. — B., Weybridie.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

January 15. — North of England Horticultural
Society's Meeting at Leeds. Lecture by Mr. R.
Farrer on " Treasures of the Alps."

January 21. — Royal Horticultural Socielv's
Meeting and Exhibition.

GARDENING ACROSTICS.

AS announced in our issue for December 14,
/% 1912, we are publishing a series of eight

/ % aaostics based on gardening or simple
^^^k botany. Prizes of £3, £2 and £i,
* ^ respectively, will be awarded to those

sending in correct solutions of all the
acrostics. The names of those who have correctly
solved the problems will be published from week
to week, and the final list of prize-winners in our
issue of February 22. In all cases the Editor's
decision must be final. The solution to Acrostic
No. 4, which appeared last week, will be published
next week, and the solution to No. 5, which is
printed below, will be published in oiu" issue dated
January 25. For full rules governing the compe-
tition readers are referred to page 623 of our issue
for December 14, njiz.

DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. 5.

The very latest in the latest fashion in gardening.
Some of the things that might be tried in them.

I. The first letters in the surnames of two of the
first men who tried to find out what was
inside plants.

2 The most famous " Green."

3. -^ seventeenth century Virgil.

4. " Seed of the Sun " — a pretty name for a

fruit whose modern name might possibly
be connected with " praecox."

5. \ correct ending!

6. A plant with many names. The right one

here is suggested by the seeds.

7. A celebrated cultivator of, and writer about,

the Auricula.

8. Responsible for many quaint plant names.

Solutions of the above must be sent so as to teach
the Editor at so, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden,
London, W.C., not later than January 18. Mark
the envelope "Acrostic" on the upper left-hand

promotes the growth of plants. •• So-called
from the resemblance of the round fiower-heads
to a sea-urchin. In Greek a sea-urchin is
" echinops."

SOLVERS OF ACROSTIC No. 2.

Correct solutions of .Acrostic No. 2, which
appeared in our issue for December 28, have been
sent in by the following : " Observer," M. Browne,
Mrs. H. Jenner, " Traveller's Joy," " White Lady,"
S. W. Philpott, '■ Retrac," E. B, Anderson,
" .Arnold," William Bond, Mrs. Ferguson. W. P.
Wood, " Elm, Bampton," " R. P. B.," and "Scottie."
The word " Hoxton " proved a stumbling-block, the
majority of the solutions sent in giving this as
Hampton, Holborn or Hatton Garden.

*,* The names of those who have correctly solved
No. 3 will be given next week.

SOLUTION AND NOTES
ACROSTIC No. 3.

" SOPS-IN-WINE— CARNATIONS.'

OF

PRIZES FOR THE BEST
ROCK GARDENS.

One of the oldest English names ot the Carnation
was Sops-in-wine, from their being used to fla\'our
wine.

* I. S. C.

2. O l.E.\RI ,A

t 3. P ETE R

J 4. S ALiMO N

5. I RIS SUSIAS' .A

§ 6. N u T

11 7. W INTF.RI I

8. I NDIG O

H 9. N ITROGE N

** 10. E CHINOP S

* Verj often " s " and " c " are placed wrongly in
" Fuchsia," e.g.. Slater's " Floral Guide," page 93.
t Peter the Great rented Evelyn's house while he
was ill England learning the art of shipbuilding.
He did great damage to the garden, t Salmon's
" Herbal," published in 1710 ; a large folio, really
as much an inventory of garden plants as a herbal.
§ Pit = grave and Nit=nut. This is a form of the
popular idea that many berries foretell a hard
winter. || Primula Winterii, a most distinct and
lovely Primula from the Himalayas. 1[ Nitrogen

To further stimulate the interest that is bemg taken
in rock gardens, the Proprietors of The Garden
offer the foUowuig prizes for tfuree photographs of
a rock garden, or portions of a rock garden :

First prize: Five Guineas, or a Silver Cup of
that value.

Second prize : Two Guineas, or Books ol that

value.

Third prize : One Guinea.

The competition is open onlv to the actual
owner of the rock garden, or to his or her gardener.
The object is to encourage good rock gardening,
and preference will, therefore, be given to those
rock gardens which show originality in design, and
where the plants depicted are well grown. It
should be distinctly understood that awards will
be made to the best rock gardens, and not neces-
sarily to the best photographs. The photographs
need not be taken by the competitor, who must,
however, in such cases have the written consent
of the photographer for their reproduction in The
Garde.n'. The competition is subject to the
following rules :

1. Not more than three photographs of each

garden may be sent in by one competitor.

2. Each photograph must have the full name and

address of the competitor plainly written
on the back in ink.

3. Successful competitors shall furnish written

particulars of the rock garden forming the
subject of their photographs.

4. Glazed and mounted P.O. P. prints must be

sent.

5. All photographs must be sent to arrive

at The Garden Offices, 20, Tavistock
Street, Strand, W.C, not later than June i,
1913.

6. Unsuccessful photographs sent in will

be returned if a sufficiently stamped and
addressed envelope or wrapper is enclosed,
but no responsibility will be taken for the
loss or damage of photographs submitted,
although every care will be taken of
them.

7. The Proprietors of The Garden reserve to

themselves the right to reproduce any
photograph sent in for competition.

8. The decision of the Editor will be final.

20

THE GARDEN.

[January ii, 1913.

THE GREENHOUSE.

THE RAISING OF ORCHIDS FROM
SEED.

THE raising of plants from seed is always
an interesting pursuit, especially when
the object is to produce a new " break "
in either flowers, fruits or vegetables.
There is a certain degree of delightful
expectancy which only those who have
had practical experience can realise, and this is
more especially felt when raising Orchids from

I. HOW TO PREPARE POTS FOR ORCHID SEEDS. O

IS A POT READY FOR SOWING, AND ON THE
CONTAINING VERY SMALL SEEDLINGS.

seed, .although much has been accomplished witli
this great family, more remains to be done, par-
ticularly with some genera ; but we must always
have an object in view, for the days of haphazard
crossing are past, and the old idea " you can never
tell what you will get " is obsolete. This, however,
is just by the way, and we must assume that the
seed-pod is ripe and the contents ready for sowing.
The House. — The methods described in the
present article apply to most, if not all, epiphytal
Orchids, of which Caltleya, La;lia, Brassavola and
Dendrobium may be cited as examples. Seeds of the
terrestrial kinds, suit as Disa, Cypripedium and
Calanthe, are best sown around plants belonging
to the same genera, selecting a specimen that
will not require repotting for at least a year. A
warm, moist atmosphere is essential for the
successful raising of Orchids from seed, and in some
establishments a small frame is arranged in the
warmest corner of a house where the temperature
varies from 65° to 70° Fahr. If the body of the
frame is extended to the floor, it can be kept 5°
or more higher than the bouse, while, if necessary,
the surroundings can be maintained near saturation
point ; but this ought not to be overdone, or the
canvas and soil will rot befor? germination takes
place.

- Preparing the Seed-Pots.— In the first illus-
tration are sho\vn two pots, one just prepared for
sowing the seed, and on the right hand the seed-
lings are ready for pricking off in store pots, although
they are rather too minute to be seen to advantage
in the illustration. Each pot is filled one-half of
its depth with drainage ; then a ball of soil, which
consists of peat, partly-decayed Oak leaves and
sphagnum moss, is rolled up in a piece of cheese
cloth, calico, or similar material, and wedged tightly
in the pot. A thin layer of sphagnum is then
placed round the side and neatly clipped off, when
we get an example like that on the left-hand side
of the illustration. The surface must always be
at least half an inch below the top of the pot.

N THE LEFT
RIGHT ONE

'■r the seed, which is very light, mav be washed

n\'er.

Sowing the Seed. — This is best sown imme-
diately after it is ripe, excepting, perhaps, during
the winter months, when it can be stored in paper
where the temperature is about 60° Fahr. till
spring arrives. The pans should be well watered
twenty-four hours in advance, the seed may then
be sprinkled lightly and evenly over the surface
and not covered in any way, while the best method
of distributing the seed is with the blade of an
ordinary budding-knife ; but after sowing one
pod the knife must be carefully
wiped before starting another, or the
seed may get slightly mixed and cause
confusion when the seedlings flower.
I might state here that accurate
records ought always to be kept.
Careful watering is absolutely neces-
sary, and this can be brought
about by standing the pans in tepid
water and allowing it to percolate
through the soil, or employing one
of the numerous fine sprayers. After
the seed is sown it should never
be allowed to become dry, but
the other extreme must also be
avoided.

Pricking OH the Seedlings. — In

four of five weeks germination will
have taken place, providing the seed
was fertile, and numerous little
green globules will be seen on the surface. As
they become larger they are pricked off with a
pointed stick into what are known as store pots.
These are 2 J- inch pots, which are filled three parts
of their depth with drainage, the remaining space
being occupied with the usual Orchid compost
cut up rather fine, and closely clipped so as to form
a level and firm surface. On the left of Fig. 2
may be seen such a pot as I have described, with
twenty or thirty small seedlings, and as they grow
more space must be given. In the other pot are
three larger seedlings, and at the next repotting
each would be placed in a receptacle of similar
dimensions. From the time of sowing the seed
till the flowering stage is reached the plants
are never permitted to become dry at the
base, nor is the rooting medium allowed to
get into a sour condition. A moist, buoyant
atmosphere is advisable and an average tempera-
ture of 65° Fahr., while cleanliness is a most
important factor, for thrip will soon destroy the
tiny seedlings or cripple them
to such an extent that progress is
considerably retarded. Although the
niethud of raising Orchids from
seed is rather different to that
adopted for most other plants, yet
it really presents very lew difficulties.
Our aim should be to flower each
plant in the shortest possible time, and
to this end repot directly a larger
receptacle is needed or the soil is
in a bad state, keep the house and
seedlings quite clean, the surround-
ings moist, give a gentle spray *
overhead occasionally during the
spring and summer months, using
au .\bol or similar spraying syringe,
and maintain an equable tempera-
ture throughout the year. If these
details are observed, success is
assured. S. T'

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

S

T

HOW TO MAKE AND PLANT A
STREAMSIDE GARDEN.

O have water, whether of 'pmid or stream,
in a garden is the greatest possible
gain, for it enables the ingenious
garden owner or designer not only to
grow in perfection many beautiful
plants, but to treat the watery places,
according to their nature and capability, in various
delightful ways. The kind of stream that is easiest
to deal with is one which has a shallow flow over
a stony bottom and that is not much below the
general ground-level. Here we have, ready-
made, the most desirable conditions, and it is an
easy matter to plant the banks and water edges
without any work of shifting or shaping ground.

If the little waterway passes through dressed
flower garden, it may be tamed to take its part
in the garden design in rills and pools and basins,
bordered with wrought-stone kerbing and planted
with such beautiful things as the Japanese Iris
laevigata and I. sibirica, scarlet Lobeha and the
fine double Arrowhead. But if it passes through
the outer part of the garden, or near grounds
of wilder character, the plants would be, many of
them, natives — the Water Plantain with its beauti-
ful leaves, the Flowering Rush (Butoijius), the
lovely Water Forget-me-not, the deep yellow Marsh
Marigold, the bright clear yellow Mimulus, so
long acclimatised that we class it as a native ;
then for foliage the common Bur-reed (Sparganium
ramosum). Lady Fern and Dilated Shield Fern ;
then the double form of the wild Meadow-sweet
and its foreign congeners the pale pink Spirjea
venusta, the rosy S. palmata and the larger white-
plumed S. Aruncus, native of the banks of alpine
torrents. There are other of our beautiful native
water-side plants, but these will be enough for a
considerable length of planting. It should be
remembered that the best effects are gained by
some restraint in the numbers of different kinds
of plants used. If in one stretch of 20 feet tn
25 feet the plants are blue Forget-me-not, yellow
Mimulus and Lady Fern only, one can see and
enjoy these lovely things to the full, and far better
than if there were two or three other objects of
interest besides. It should also be borne in mind
that the plant-pictures of wise selection and good
grouping are best seen from the opposite side r^f
the stream. If its direction is sinuous, there will
be ample opportunity for carrying the path across

ON THE LEFT IS A POT OF SEEDLINGS THAT HAVE BEEN
PRICKED OFF, AND ON THE RIGHT ONE CONTAINING THREE
LARGER SEEDLINGS.

January ii, 1913]

THE GAKDEN.

21

and across, so gaining; different aspects of light
nn flower and water. Tile path may cross either
liy stepping-stones or by some very simple bridge,
something much better than the so-called rustic
bridge that so coinmoidy defaces garden waters.
If the stream is not shallow and stony-bottomed,
it is worth a good deal of work and trouble to make
it so.

Not only is it pleasant to see the clear pebbly
bottom, but it makes more movement of water,
and the movement brings forth that sweet babbling,
the language of the water, telling of its happy
life and activity. One may learn the value of this
both for sight and sound at many a bridge in
country places where a road crosses a running
stream or small river. On one side or other of
llie bridge there is generally a shallow, stony place

PLAN SHOWING SECTION OF A DEEP DITCH

where the water is not much more than ankle-deep.
However ancient the bridge may be, this shallow
is the evidence of a still older ford. The ford must
h.ive been m.ade by widening the area of the flow
and by shallowing the bottom, putting down stones
to hinder its being washed out. It is a useful
lesson in the treatment of garden streams.

Sometimes the only stream one has to deal
with is running water in the bottom of a straight,
deep, narrow ditch, with nearly vertical sides.
Nothing can be less inspiring to the planter than
such a ditch ; yet, on the other hand, nothing
is more stimulating to its power of invention
and determination to convert unsightliness into
beauty. The ditch, as it exists, is useless except
as a drain, but there is the precious running water
— the one thing most wanted. In such a case it
is often advisable to mak- an entirely new channel.

able offence in all gardening. The course of the
stream may be more erratic, and a glance at the
sketch will show how such planning gives oppor-
tunities for planting and enjoying a limited
number of pretty things at a time, for each Dend
of the brook may show quite a different treatment.
The soil is taken out not only for the wider,
shallower stream, but nearly down to the water-
level for a width of some feet on the pathside.
The spare earth is thrown up beyond the path and
shaped so that it rises first gently and then a little
more sharply. The rest of the excavation goes
on the other side of the stream, rising easily from
rather near the water's edge. In the section the
shrubs on the banks are shown of the size they would
be about a year after planting ; eventually they
would be quite as big again. The course of the
stream is dug out less
than one foot dcp,
flattish rough stones
are laid at the bottom,
and over them smaller
stones. If, as is likely,
the path is inclineu to
be damp, it can be
made dry and solid by
ramming small stones
into its surface, or it
can be roughly laid with flat stones in the wettest
places. The path must have the character of a
wild path, not that of a garden walk — nothing
that suggests rolled gravel, and no straightly-
trimmed hedges. Gertri;de Jekvll.

r/r/7r^7/-

THE ROSE GARDEN.

NOTES ON THE NEWER ROSES.

(Continued from pave g.)
THE NEWER DECORATIVE ROSES.
The advance that has been made of recent years
in this section of the dwarf decorative or garden
Rose is very great, and yet one feels, great though
it has been, it will be greater still in the near future.
Those who have seen the Roses not yet in com-
merce feel that that much is. at any rate, assured

In dealing with these decorative Roses I shall
limit my selection to those that I have grown or ■>
know intimately enough to speak of with some
degree of confidence. This at once shortens my
task very considerably. .Might I suggest to your
readers that they would help on the cause of the
Rose by naming any new Rose they may have
tried and found satisfactory, and by forwarding a
short description for insertion in your columns.
Roses vary so much in behaviour, according to
the climate, soil and attention they receive, that
a good Rose in one locality may easily be unsatis-
factory in another, and vice versa. Where I
have already referred to a Rose under the exhi-
bition varieties, I shall not include it here except
by reference. Very many of our new exhibition
Roses are first-rate garden Roses also.

PLAN OF A PATHWAY AND STREAM.

Alice Lemon (K. G. Hill, iyi2). — See notes on
" Hybrid Teas for Exhibition."

Andre Gamon (Pemet-Ducher, 1910), H.T. —
See notes on " Hvbrid Teas for Exhibition."

Arthur R. Goodwin (Femet-Ducher, 1909). —
.A. pernetiana Rose, and one of the best of the
section, so far as we have made their acquaintance ;
it is named after one who was once a keen rosarian,
hut who now goes in for bulbs I A free-flowering,
pi;etty, decorative Rose of good habit ; colour
variable, pale orange yellow, veined old gold.
Mildew-proof with me and scented.

Beaute de Lyon (Pernet-Ducher, 1910). —
Another of this rlass, but in habit of growth par-
taking of more of the original cross, Soleil d'Or.
The colour is a bright pink shade of terra-cotta,
quite unusual, but which appears again in Mme.
Edouard Heriot. A Rose one would grow for its

^^m
?////

A STREAMSIDE GARDEN THAT HAS BEEN MADE FROM A DEEP DITCH.

excavating a good width so as to gaui plenty of
space down at the water's edge, and to give the
stream some other form than a straight one. A
natural stream is seldom straight, and though in
gardening in general straight lines have great
value, yet there are often reasons for departing
from them, especially in groundwork of the wilder
sort. So with our stream and its accompanying
path, the character of the environment must be
considered, the general lie of the land, the nature
of the places where the water enters and leaves
the garden and so on. The path should swing
along in one easy line, not straight, but not going
out of its way to twist for no reason — an unpardon-

from every point of view — scent, freedom of
flowering, length and continuity of the flowering
period, colour, shape and habit of growth. In
every one of these respects advances are being
made ; yet perhaps if one was asked to say .in which
respect was the greatest advance to be found,
one would say coloiu' — Queen Mary, Irish Fire-
flame, Mrs. C. E. Peirson, Old Gold, Mrs. Hunting
and Lady Mary Ward, to name some of the new
Irish Roses, and then in this connection one must
not forget Pernet-Ducher's great work. Probably
the foundation of this yellow-in-all-shades advance —
a great deal of it — can be traced back to that source ;
at least, I should imagine so.

extraordinary colour, just as one would include
Juliet ; but a bed of it would be a mistake.

Berthe Gaulis (Bemaix, 1910), H.T. — A useful
Rose. Colour, deep China pink, occasionally
quite a good shape and of some size and substance.
I am giving it a further trial.

British Queen (S. McGredy and Son, 191:;). —
See " Exhibition Varieties."

Carine (A. Dickson and Sons, 191 1), H.T. — A
beautiful bedding Rose, and one that h.is been
very much admired here, so much so that it was
nearly always cut first if Roses were wanted for
the house. That tells its own tale ; at least, I
think so. It is a Hybrid Tea with a great deal of

•22

THE GARDEN.

[January ii, 1913.

Tea blood in it. If one might venture a guess at its
parentage, I should say that G. Nabonnand had
had something to do with it. The colour is v.iriable,
creamy fawn, coppery salmon in the early stage,
but very attractive at all times. A delightful
button-hole flower in the bud stage. Excellent
habit of growth, flowers being carried erect. Very
sweetly perfumed ; altogether a desirable Rose.
Southampton. Herbert E. Molyneu.x.

(To be continued.)

GARDENS OF TO-DAY.

HOPETOUN HOUSE GARDENS,
LINLITHGOWSHIRE.

Situated in one of the favoured corners of
Scotland, these extensive gardens can easily
claim a place of equality with the best of their

houses and, indeed, a quite modern glass equip-
ment.

A long span-roofed house is filled with
fine sturdy plants of Begonia Gloire de Lorraine,
both white and pink. As these are in great
demand during the winter, some five hundred
plants are cultivated. Carnations of all kinds
are grown in enormous quantities. A large span-
roofed house was recently converted into a
Carnation-house, and that it is admirably adapted
for this purpose the healthy plants amply prove.
.\ smaller house, running at right angles to the one
just mentioned, was filled with a batch of young
Perpetual-flowering Carnations in front, while at
the back are older plants that have been giving a
constant supply of fine flowers for the last twelve
months. They were still, at the time of my visit,
giving plenty of fine blooms on stiff, clean stems.
Still another house was filled with a fine batch

grown, and also climbing Roses of the wichuraiana
type. One of these borders is devoted to Carna-
tions, all the most distinct border varieties being
grown in hundreds.

Snapdragons. — Another section holds Ijuudreds
of Antirrhinums, all the finest of Sutton's varieties
being grown. Those who have never seen Antir-
rhinums massed as they are at Hopetoun can have
no idea of the gorgeous effect produced by these
simple flowers. I shall never forget my first visit
to these gardens several years ago, when the first
thing to take the eye was a border in front of the
Peach-houses filled with 2,000 Antirrhmums.
This sight of itself was worth a long journey.
Last season they were equally fine, but hardly in
such numbers, I think.

Pentstemons. — While the Antirrhinums are

always fine, they must surrender pride of place at

I Hopetoun to the Pentstemons. Nowhere have I

THE LARGE HERBACEOUS BORDER AT HOPETOUN HOUSE, LINLITHGOWSHIRE.

kind in the United Kingdom. The grounds,
lawns and shrubberies at Hopetoun, which is the
seat of Lord Linlithgow, are of great extent,
while the garden proper covers an area of over
twenty acres. I do not know who chose the
site origuially, but that it must have been one
well versed in such matters is evident, as no finer
situation for a large garden could be found any-
where. The ground slopes gently from west to
east, and much more steeply from north to south,
into a winding dale, or, as we call it in Scotland,
a glen. To the north side are the very extensive
flower gardens, while on the south side are the
kitchen and fruit gardens.

The glass structures are situated at the west
side of the gardens, and are of considerable extent.
They comprise long ranges of fruit-houses, large
stoves, Palm-houses, Orchid-houses, Cvnation-

of these Tree Carnations, just throwing up their
first spikes, and Mr. Highgate, the head-gardener,
acknowledged that he was prouder of this house
than of almost anything else on the place.
Many other interesting subjects could be named ;
but space, or, rather, the want of it, compels me
to pass on to what is really the glory of
HopetoUTi —

The Flower and Rose Gardens.— The north
side of the gardens is protected by a high brick
wall, against the west end of which are built the
principal vineries. Further east this wall is clothed
with Pears, Peaches and Apricots. The Pears
last season were remarkably fine. I do not
remember ever seeing finer Marie Louise and
Pitmaston Duchess. In front of these Pears are
broad borders, with large Rose and Sweet Pea
pillars at the back. All the best Sweet Peas are

seen these glorious autumn flowers in such perfec-
tion. I have no idea how many plants arc used,
but they must run into several thousands. All the
very finest types are planted in separate colours,
and this feature of these gardens must be seen to
be appreciated. Last year I think they were finer
than I have ever before seen them, and that is saying
a good deal. While all were fine, special mention
must be made of Crimson Gem, Daydream (raised
at Hopetoun) and Mrs. J. Forbes. The last named
is the largest flower I have yet seen, while the
spike is long and massive. Daydream is, so far
as I know, by far the finest large-flowered pink,
while Crimson Gem is the most striking of all the
family.

East Lothian Stocks. — The late Lord Luilith-
gow was very fond of East Lothian Stocks, and
one long border was yearly devoted to these plajits.

January ii, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

23

In 191 1 a border under a wall and facing east
was given to these delightful old plants, and very
fine they were. Planted in rows of a colour, they
were greatly admired by every visitor. On a
similar border, further cast, is a full collection of
late perennial Phloxes.

The Herbaceous Border. — Last summer I was
just late i'uoukIi In ^co the famous winding herba-
ceous border at its best. On a former occasion I
was fortunate enough to catch it at the height of its
glory, and can safely say it is one of the finest of
its kind in existence. It is a real mixed border
in the best sense of the word, and none of the so-
called colour-scheme freaks. The plants thrive
and flower luxuriously, and all the very finest
varieties of the various kmds are
represented. I will not attempt to
go into the merits of the different
species used, but I was greatly
struck with that grand biennial,
Meconopsis Wallichii. The photo-
graph of the border reproduced
on page 22 was taken by Mr. Francis
C. Inglis, photographer to His
Majesty the King at Edinburgh.

The Rose Garden is on grass,

the beds being large, and filled, for
the most part, with one variety to
each. The soil is just light enough
to produce luxuriant growth, but
all the varieties flower very freeh-
and make a grand show in their
season. The beds are usually car-
peted with Viola Come-to- Stay. It
would be easy to fill double the
space and not exhaust the good
things to be seen at Hopetoun,
but I fear the Editor will even now
be thinking that I have run on
quite far enough. C. Blair.

Preston House Gardens, Linlithgow.

The large, rounded leaves and white flowers make
a well-developed bush very attractive.

Corokea Cotoneaster is a rare New Zealand
shrub whkii is well worth a position on a wall,
or even in the open ground in the warmer counties.
Light loamy soil, or sandy soil containing a little
peat, suit it admirably. Its contorted branches,
tiny dark green leaves and star-shaped, yellow
flowers make it attractive.

(To be continued.)

THE DECIDUOUS CYPRESS.

(Ta.xodiu.m distichum.)
The Deciduous Cypress is a stately tree, possessing
many interesting characteristics. .As its popular

condition. This is borne out by the accompanying
illustration, showing a remarkably fine specimen
growing on the summit of St. Leonard's Hill,
Windsor, in the gardens of Lady Tress Barry. This
tree was the pride of the late Robert Brown,
who for so very many years was head-gardener at
St. Leonard's Hill, and whose lamented death
occurred last year.

Considerable interest has lately been displayed
in the fact that cones of Taxodium distichum
were produced in different parts of the country
last autumn, and an illustration appeared in our
pages for November 9, 1912, of a cone-bearing
shoot from the Duke of Northumberland's garden
at Syon House, where the tallest trees of

Taxodium distichum in Europe

are growing.

TREES & SHRUBS.

CULTURAL HINTS ON
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

{Continued from page 648,
Vol. LXXVI.)

Magnolia salicifolia may be
grown successfully in light, sandy
sou, but it will be assisted if a little
peat is placed about the roots at
planting-time.* A little shelter,
such as is afforded by other shrubs,
makes an appreciable difference to
its development, but it must not
be planted in close proximity to
very vigorous subjects. Its glisten-
ing white flowers appear in April, and it promises to
become quite as useful as the well-known M. stellata.

Berberis Wilsonae. — Both by its showy yellow
flowers and bright red fruits this shrub is well
worth a place in the shrubbery. Its requirements
are simple, for, given ordinary garden soil, it will
continue to give satisfaction without any special
cultural attention. Pruning is unnecessarv. Propa-
gate from seeds.

Styrax Obassia. — .-Uthough not new, this
Japanese shrub or small tree is very rare. Requiring
well-drained, good loamy soil, it grows fairly rapidly
in the warmer parts of the country, but has a habit
of suddenly going wrong when in full growth.

.\ STATELY TREE OF THE DECIDUOUS CYPRESS IN THE G.\RDENS AT

ST. Leonard's hill, Windsor.

name implies, it is deciduous, and m casting its
foliage in the autumn it is, with the exception of
the Larch, quite unlike the general run of conifers,
to which family Taxodium belongs. Another
peculiarity of the species, and one that has created
a deal of interest, is the presence of " woody knees,"
about two feet above the ground, sometimes pro-
duced within a few yards of the tree when gro«-n
in swampy places. When the trees are permanently
surrounded by water, it is not uncommon for
them to produce very much enlarged basal trunks.
But Taxodium is evidently a very accommodating
subject, as it appears to flourish equally well
on the top of a hill as it does in a semi-aquatic

FLOWER GARDEN.

LILiES: A CAUSERIE.

{Continued from page 12.)
" Like the Lily,
That once was mistress of the field,

and flourish'd,
I'll hang mv head and perish."
— •'KingHenryVni.,"III., I., ijr.

SO Shakespeare wrote, but
though he had no garden
difficulties with Lilies
imported from Japan
or California, he here
connects the fair flower
with a delicacy of constitution.
Our present-day failures likewise
are not confined to recently-
imported bulbs. We sometimes
call the whole race evil names —
pernickety, peevish, ill-tempered
and so forth — when they will not
grow as we wish and in the spot
we choose for them. Our parda-
linums perhaps refuse to produce
the blaze of orange we planned in
our callous modem way of plant-
ing, dubbed colour scheming.
Oriental Poppies and scarlet Salvia
grow well just there, and yet
the Panther Lilies refuse to bridge
over the blank moment when
the croceums have gone and
the Tigers have not yet ap-
peared. Very disobligmg of them,
we say, but we do not stop to
realise it is our own fault in select-
ing too hot and stmny a position
for them, sorting them out by
colour like silks for embroidery,
and not by their own requirements,
after the manner of the older
mind, better school of gardeners,
more of the happiness of plants
blending of their colours. Take

and, to my
who thought
than of the
Baker's revision of the Liliacese and a map of the
world, and mark a line round the native countries
of Lilies. When you see what a wide stretch
from East to West this line takes, and realise how
many different climates must be included, and
that, with the exception of the Siberian L. daviiri-
cum and some Chinese and Japanese species,
the majority of Lilies live in more Southern and
favoured climes than our England can boast,
surely pity for these exiles from happier homes
should replace our abuse of their inability to

24

THE GAEDEN.

[January ii, 1913

acclimatise themselves without all our possible aid
and sympathy.

We often wait till the frosts have cleared oiu"
flower-beds to remodel and plant, so it is just at
the wettest and coldest period of the year that
the poor bulbs are put into new beds — one may
almost say into damp sheets, and chills and decay
follow. A bulb of loose scales like a Lily is difficult
to handle without bruising, or at least misplacing,
some of the scales, and anything that tends to
let an undue amount of water in, to lodge near
the heart, and especially near a cracked portion
of scale, is a serious danger in winter.

Besides care in handling, much may be done
when replanting by placing sharp sand below the
bulbs and tilting them slightly to one side to
prevent, as much as possible, water reaching and
resting in the heart, and then covering them to
a depth of r inch or 2 inches with sand. Then
we may look our Lily honestly in the face, feeling
we have done our best for it, and may reasonably

and seems really to be wilful, pervicacious and
wayward. It will often grow and increase in the

I most generous, warm-hearted way in a somewhat
neglected cottage border, yet be quite unmoved
by the flattery of a special bed and utterly unre-

I sponsive to the care lavished ou it in some great
garden. As I find the Lilies, they fall into three
classes. First, the frail, delicate beauties that
refuse to tcike a fancy to me and my garden. I
name and pass by some of them : L. japonicum
(Krameri), L. rubelluni, L. superbum, L. tenui-
folium, L. speciosum, L. elegans, L. Leichtlinii,
L. Batemanniae and L. longitJorum. These flower
but once here, as though one good stare at what
I can offer them for a home 'is sufficient to provoke
suicide. Secondly, those that have made friends
with me. Of these faithful dog-like creatures I
must sing loud praises ; and, thirdly, those with a
cat-like disposition, that appear to love me when
they happen to get just what they want, but which
I always feel are ready to sulk and walk off with tail

ACANTHUS MOLLIS. AN EASILY-GROWN PLANT THAT MAY BE INCREASED BY DIVISIO

expect it to look back at us with fair flowers and
plenty of them. The late Mr. G. F. Wilson (" Lily
Wilson," as he himself has told us he was named.
Canon Ellacombe having been his horticultural
godfather) used to say every garden could grow
tliree Lilies, and most of them three only. That
is no doubt true, if one leaves it entirely to the
garden to do the growing, for L. Martagon, L.
pyrenaicum, and L. umbellatum or L. croceum
would grow in any garden that was not a grove
of Yew trees nor unduly disturbed by deep digging
in the dog-days or hard frosts ; but where know-
ledge and care on the part of the gardener are added,
it would be better to move from a garden that
would not also provide healthy clumps of L.
testaceum, L. tigrinum. L. Henryi, L. Hansonii
and L. pardaliniun. L. giganteum also. I believe,
can be made happy by anyone sufficiently in earnest
.ibout it to spend a little money and to take a good
deal of trouble ; but L. candidum, the Lily of all
Lilies one most longs for, behaves so strangely

stiffly erect if they get their feet wet or their milk
is not to their liking, to complete the feline
metaphor, which, translated into Lily language,
would be to die of stagnant moisture or the
wrong manure. E. A. Bowles.

{To be continued.)

a whole does not suffer, some of the weaker plants
should be replanted. Choose a few vigorous root-
growths from the outer portions of each. Before
replanting, remove the soil i foot deep and as wide,
assuming, of course, that the same subject is to
occupy the same site ; but if not, there will be no
occasion to remove the soil. Replace the old soil
with fresh. If not convenient to bring in quite
new soil to the border, take some from the surface
close by, replacing it with that removed from the
site, adding a fourth part of manure in a decayed
state. The whole of the border should be forked
over between the clumps — quite lightly, of course,
near tlie plants, so as to avoid disturbing the
roots too much. Where space exists between the
plants, dig the soil over deeply. As the work
proceeds, bury a quantity of half-decayed stable
manure near such plants as those already men-
tioned, as tliey are voracious feeders, and unless
constant stimulants are applied, the growth becomes
i weak, and, naturally, a poor flower crop is the result.
When the digging of the border is
completed, a mulching, 2 inches thick,
. of a compost made up of decayed
vegetable refuse, old potting soil, leaf-
mould, wood-ashes and road sweep-
ings should be given. Such a covering
not only imparts new life to the
plants, but serves as a mulch
during the early summer months,
when a period of drought is often
experienced.

One great fault made in the cultiva-
tion of herbaceous plants is that of
allowing each specimen to grow to an
unwieldy size. It is not an uncommon
>ight to see Michaelmas Daisies,
Tyrethrums, Chrysanthemum maxi-
mum and Hcleniums fully a yard
across at the base, with stems half
the strength they should be. Sup-
porting the stems of such clumps as
these is a difficult matter. The result
is they are too often tied in close
together, resembling a tightly-bound
broom ; the natural beauty of the
plant is lost and the centre of the
plant quite prevented from making '
a free development, whereas smaller
plants can easily be kept in an upright
position by the aid of one or two
stakes and loose ties. Instead of
retaining clumps of the larger size,
N NOW. it is better to reduce them to 6 inches,

retaining the outer portion, filling up
the space with half-rotted manure and fresh soil,
which will invigorate the plant retained.

Swanmorc Park. E. Molvneu.y,

RENOVATING HERBACEOUS
BORDERS.

There are times when it is not convenient to
replant herbaceous borders, and when this is so,
renovation should take place and stimulating food
be provided for the occupants. Such free-growing
subjects as Michaelmas Daisies, Polygonums,
Bocconias, Helianthus, Chrysanthemum maximum
and herbaceous Phloxes are soil-exhausting, and
quickly become weak if not fed. When a border
is replanted, the weakening of the centre of each
clump is avoided ; but where replanting the whole
is not convrniont, then renovation must be resorted
to. To do justice to the plants, so that the border as

A HARDY BEAR'S BREECH.

(AcANTHtJS MOLLIS.)

This strikingly handsome plant is occasionally
met with in the gardens of this country, although,
speakuig generally, it is a sadly-neglected subject.
j When grown on herbaceous borders it always
' attracts a good deal of attention by virtue of its
tall flowering spikes and its equally attractive
foliage. It is a plant of easy cultivation, and the
one thing to bear in mind is that it requires plenty
of room, for it is notoriously vigorous in growth.
In regard to soil it is not fastidious, and, given a
partially-shaded position, it makes an admirable
backgrour.d for other flowering plants. Propaga-
tion is usually eflected by division of the roots either
in the autumn or at this season, providing the
weather is open.

JANUARY II, 1913.]

THE GAKDEN.

25

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

PRUNING AND CLEANING GRAPE VINES.

Thi: pniniiit; nt all Vines should now be com-
pleted with all possible haste No hard-and-
fast lines can be laid down with the pruning of

.hiaX;aibi!

I. A VINE ROD WITH LATERAL OR SIDE SHOOTS

PRUNED BACK TO TWO BUDS TO FORM SPURS.

Vines, as some cases call for quite different treat-
ment to others. For instance, young vigorous
Vines, or even comparatively old ones provided
they are strong and vigorous, may be pruned to two
buds, and will crop as well as though they were
pruned to five or si.\. Vines which need plenty
of yomig wood to ensure a good crop of fruit are
uld Vines wfiicb have been subjected to early forcing
lor a number of years. Such Vines, naturally,
become weakened through being forced out of
season, and it is prudent in such cases to leave
plenty of young wood so that tbere shall be a
number of vigorous shoots from which to select the
best bunches. Moreover, the extra foliage resulting
from these liberal measures is a great incentive
to root-action. Of course, there will be a super-
abundance of young growth, but this must be
removed as soon as it can be determined which
shoots are carrying the best bunches.

.Another point which must not be lost sight of
when pruning old Vines is the fact that old rods
which are becoming weaker every year may be
replaced by young, vigorous canes, but this con-
tingency must be provided for some years in advance
by selecting convenient shoots from as near the
base of the old Vines as possible, and giving these
shoots every chance to make good, stout growth.
The lower spurs on the old rods must be sacrificed
as these young canes develop. Eventually the old
rods may be cut out, leaving the young ones in
sole possession of the house.

Cropping Young Vines. — ^There has been a

great deal written from time to time of the extra-
ordinary crops of Grapes that have been produced
by Vines which have been planted only two or

three years. I do not wish to cast any doubt
on the accuracy of these statements, as I have seen
young Vines carrying these heavy crops, but I would
warn the inexperienced Grape-grower against such
a practice. This heavy cropping of young Vines,
although they may have made abnormally strong
growths, is almost certain to end in failure. To
build up strong Vines which are going to last
through one's lifetime, or even longer, a strong
foundation must be laid, and this is only possible
by patience and care. However strong the growth
is the first year after planting, the leaders should
be cut back to 2 feet or 3 feet. Vines which have
made unsatisfactory progress the first season after
planting should be cut back to two or three eyes.
The Vines are sure to make better growth the
following year.
Newly-Planted Vines. — Young Vines which

an- nitcnded for planting in the spring should be
cut back to three or four buds, and the strongest
growth must be selected to form the leader Vines
should be planted far enough apart to grow two,
three, or even more rods from each plant. The life
of Vines planted on this system is far longer and
the growth fsu- more vigorous than when they are
planted on the single-rod system, as witness the
famous Hampton Court and Cumberland Lodge
Vines.

The Cleaning of Vines is one of the most im-
portant matters which call for attention at this
time of year. Vines which are badly infested with
mealy-bug need very severe methods to rid them
of this pest. After the' Vines are pruned, the
house should be subjected to a thorough cleanmg.
The glass and woodwork should be first well
washed with strong soft soapy water. The trellis
and all ironwork where the insects are likely to be
secreted ought to be painted over with paraffin.
The rods should then be stripped of all loose bark,

and any holes which are likely to harbour insect
pests must be thoroughly cleaned out. A sheet
of canvas or something similar should be laid down

to catch all the loose

baik, and this must

be taken to the stoke-
hole and burned.

The rods must then

be thoroughly washed

with a strong mix-
ture of soft soap and

sulphur, using a stiff

brush so that the

solution may be well

worked into the bark.

This operation must

be repeated just be-
fore the buds burst

into growth, but

great care must be

taken so as not to

damage the buds.
A careful look-out

must be kept during

the early stages ol

the Vines' growth

for any stray insects

which may have

, ■' 2. — VINES GROWN ON WHAT

escaped the wmter ^.^^^ ^^^^ ^g ^^^^

cleaning, as they system.

spread with alarming rapidity. A few hours'
careful searching before the Vines ha\'e made
much progress will save days of weary labour
when the trellis is covered with growth. I have
tried cleaning Vines of mealy-bug by fumi-
gating with cyanide, but while it killed the insects
which were exposed, it failed entirely to have any
effect on those which were concealed in holes or
crevices. I have also seen the young, tender shoots
badly affected by its use.

Lockinge. E. H.

HOW TO SOW BEGONIA SEEDS.

The seeds of tuberous and fibrous rooted Begonias
are very small ; they resemble dust or fine pepper,
and, of course, it would be quite wrong to cover
them with a body of soil. However, the proper way
to sow the seeds is a very simple one. and if care-
fully attended to afterwards, there n»ed be no
difficulty in raising a big slock of plants success-
fully.

The seedlmgs are best raised in pots ov
pans. These must be clean and dry, also the
crocks placed in them for drainage. A compost _
of sifted loam, sweet leaf-soil and sand in equal
proportions should be mixed and the pans three
parts filled with it. Make the surface level and
smooth, and then well water through a fine-rosed
watering-can. In an hour's time scatter the
seeds evenly and not too thickly on the surface, and
on them give a very light sprinkling of sand. Place
the pans on a bed of damp moss in a warm place
in the greenhouse or in a heated fra'ine, and cover
the tops with squares of glass. Both before and
after the seedlings appear, any necessary water
should be given by immersing the pans in a vessel
of tepid water until the surface soil becomes dark
with the rising moisture ; then gently lift out
the pans. If the tiny seedlings are thus taken
care of and not directly exposed to the sun's
rays, they will soon grow large enough to trans-
plant. Shamrock,

IS KNOWN AS the EXTENSION SYSTEM. FREQUENTLY
TO ONE MAIN ROD, KNOWN AS THE SINGLE-ROD

26

THE GARDEN.

[January ii, 1913-

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Care of Lawns. — A well-kept lawn is a delightful
adjunct to the flower garden. At no season of
the year can weeds such as Dandelion, Plantains
and Daisies be removed with greater ease than the
present. No opportunity should be lost in getting
them removed while the weather remains moist
and open.

Top-Dressing. — Where the grass is apt to be
thin, a top-dressing of good rich soil or short
manure, well worked in, will do a great deal of good ;
but too heavy a dressing is apt to kill the grass,
so a small quantity should be given and well worked
in, to be followed with a second dressing when
the grass commences to grow, if it is thought
necessary.

Moss on Lawns. — Where this has got a hold
among the grass, it should be scratched out with
short-toothed rakes, top-dressing afterwards as
advised above, or in this case a good dressing of
wood-ashes, well worked in, will, in many instances,
eradicate it.

The Rock Garden.

Alterations. — During open weather any altera-
tions or additions to the rock gardens should be
pushed forward, for at any time now such work
may have to be suspended for a while. During
such alterations any of the smaller-growing shrubs
may be replanted, also some of the larger and more
hardy rock garden subjects ; but as far as possible
the smaller and more tender subjects should be
left till the end of March or early in April, when
they are less likely to be affected by the frost after
removal.

Propagated Plants (whether from seeds or
cuttings) that are being wintered in frames should
be kept as hardy and dry as possible during the
winter months, as with much moisture various
subjects are apt to damp off.

Plants Under Glass.
Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — With care and

attention this splendid winter-flowering plant
will keep our greenhouses and conservatories gay
for two or three months longer ; but, as the plants
are now well in bloom, the structure in which they
are kept must be quite dry, with a temperature of
about 50° at night.

Cinerarias, Primulas and Cyclamen are all
developing their flower-buds, and should be assisted
with a little manure-water as often as they become
dry. The former, also, should have more space
given them as they develop their heads of bloom.

Perpetual-Flowering Carnations. — Nice short-
growing shoots make the best cuttings if taken
direct from the hard stems. Insert either in pots,
pans or shallow beds in a compost of sand, old
crocks or brick dust and a little fine loam ; they
will soon strike in a temperature of about 50°.
If a little bottom-heat is at hand, so much the
better, but this is not absolutely necessary.

The Rose Garden.

Pot Roses. — The earUest batch that may have
been removed under cover a week or two ago
should be pruned at once preparatory to starting,
and, wherever possible, the main batch should be
placed under cover. Quite a cool house is the
best. Here they should be allowed to get a little
dry before proceeding to prune them.

Tea Roses planted out under glass, having had
their season of rest, may be thinned out somewhat,
removing all weakly growth and pruning the
other wood back according to the system adopted
and the space at hand for extension.
The Kitchen Garden.

Hot-Beds. — The matter of hot-beds must not
be forgotten for the forcing of early crops of vege-
tables, and hard weather is often a very suitable
time for preparing and mixing manure and leaves
for this purpose. It is almost unnecessary to say
that very wet material does not heat as well as
that which is fairly dry, so the manure, leaves, &c.,
should, if possible, be kept under cover and turned
a time or two before it is made up.

Salad Plants in frames must be gone over regu-
larly, scratching over the surface of the soil and
picking off any decaying leaves. Give as much
air as is consistent with the state of the weather.

Endive should be tied up and cevered over to eusure
nicely-blanched plants, and Chicory and Dandelion
placed in the Mushroom-house or other forcing
place in quantities sufficient to keep up a regular
supply. Also Mustard and Cress should be sown
weekly and placed in one of the fruit-houses that
have been started. Here it will come along nicely.
Cauliflower, Cabbage, Onions and Lettuce should
now be sown in boxes and placed in gentle heat.

Fruits Under Glass.

Melons. — -A sowing should be made at once for
early crops, and if a variety such as Blenheim
Orange or Hero of Lockinge is selected, the fruits
will be found to ripen slightly in advance of those
of some of the heavier- fruiting varieties.

Cucumbers also should be sown to succeed
those that are fruiting during the winter. If
both the above are sown in 3-inch pots in fairly
moist soil and plunged in the propagating-frame
with a bottom-heat of about 70° to 75°, no water
should be needed till germination has taken place.

Tomatoes. — These also should be sown in pans
and placed in a warm house. Thin sowing is essen-
tial, as the plants draw very quickly during the
early months of the year if the seed is sown too
thickly. Sunrise and Ideal are two varieties that
are excellent in every way.

Rhubarb. — Batches of this most excellent fruit
or vegetable, whichever it is termed, should be
placed in the forcing-house or in a frame on a hot-
bed at regular intervals, according to requirements,
as it will be found very useful as Apples and Pears
get scarcer.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Pruning. — The work of pruning the Apples and
Pears should be started at once if not already
commenced, and my plan is to start on the walls
first, and this before the ground has been prepared
for the vegetable crops. This is distinctly advan-
tageous, as it saves treading about on the ground
that has been worked. The work of pruning is
carried out on various systems ; but, judging by
the trees one sees in many gardens, the methods
adopted do not always fall in with one's own
ideas. All trees trained, on walls or espaliers
should be kept as short in the spurs as possible,
so as to admit a maximum amount of light to all
parts of the trees.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wobitrn Place Gardens, Addlestoue, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

The Seed Order. — The following are a few things
worth including in the seed order : Asters of the
Ostrich Feather and sinensis types in variety,
Alyssum minimum, Anchusa italica Dropmore
variety and Opal, Antirrhinums in variety.
Long-spurred Aquilegia, Cheiranthus AUionii,
Clarkia elegans in variety (especially Firefly and
Double Salmon), Dimorphotheca aurantiaca and
its hybrids, Dianthus Heddewigii (especially Salmon
Queen) .Gilia coronopifolia, Lavatera rosea splendens,
Leptosyne maritima, Myosotis Royal Blue, Nemesia
Suttonii and N. Hybrid Blue Gem, Sweet William
Pink Beauty, Swan River Daisy and Thalictrum
dipterocarpum.

Rhododendron arboreiun. — This precocious

species and its varieties are showing colour earlier
than usual. If sharp frosts occur, they should
be protected by a mat, as for lack of this small
attention a season's effort is often rendered abortive.

The Wild Garden.

Formation. — Those who can afford the room —
if they do not already own one — will derive great
pleasure from a wild garden. In forming one
all conventionalities may be dispensed with, and
one can here safely follow their " own sweet will."
Try to avoid incongruities, of course, and imitate
Nature ; the less formal the better. Those who
have the advantage of a more or less undulating
surface are happily circumstanced.

The Best Plants. — Of material for furnish-
ing there is abundance. Tall subjects include
Thorns, Cherries, Crabs and Amelanchiers, while
shrubby subjects include Dogwoods, orna-
mental Brambles, Guelder Roses and Hydrangeas.
Then herbaceous subjects include Crambo cordi-

folia, Senecio clivorum, S. tanguticus, Willow-
herbs. Teasels, Delphiniums. Michaelmas Daisies
and Bocconia rordata. A few clumps of Sweet
Peas may also be included. Dwarfer subjects
include St. John's Wort, Saxifraga peltata,
Oreocome Candollei, Funkias, the more vigorous
Saxifrages, Irises, Polyanthuses, Tulips, Snow-
drops, Scillas and Dog's-tooth Violets.

The Rose Garden.

Protection. — We often have our severest frosts
after this ; if such occur, a little Wheat straw
shaken loosely over the Teas and Hybrid Teas
will preserve them from being damaged. Where
planting could not be done in November, the ground
should be prepared for planting next month.
Work in some wood-ashes with the manure, and if
the soil is deficient in lime, a little should be worked
in among the top spit.

The Shrubbery.

Pruning. — Any deciduous shrubs which have
not been pruned should receive attention at once
to prevent the loss of sap.

Protection from Rabbits. — Where the grounds
are not rabbit-proof, young, succulent specimens
of Crabs, Cherries, &c., should either be protected
from rabbits and hares by placing a circle of wire-
netting round them or have their stems anointed
with bitter aloes.

Plants Under Glass.

Begonias require a long period to germinate ;
therefore the sooner seed is sown the better.
Fill well-drained pans wit'' loam, peat, leaf-mould
and sand, finishing off firm and smooth ; water
with a fine-rosed can, and after two hours sow the
seed, mixing it first with some sand to aid in
securing equality of dispersion. Do not cover with
soil, but cover the pan with a pane of glass. Never
allow the soil to become dry, and if water is required,
supply it by partial immersion. Place in a tempera-
ture of from 60° to 65°.

Cinerarias. — Growth will again be more active,
and mild stimulants should be applied twice a
week. Vary the food ; say, soot-water one week
and guano-water or some other fertiliser the next.

Fruits Under Glass.

Vines. — In disbudding always retain a strong
bud for preference, but uniformity of spread must
always be kept in view ; therefore, if only a weak
bud is available to fill a previous blank, do not
hesitate to retain it.

Peaches. — Where the trees are coming into
flower, maintain a rather dry, buoyant atmosphere
to assist in the dispersion of the pollen, The three
artificial means of pollination are by a rabbit's tail,
tapping the trees, and spraymg with a fine spray
of water. Pollination should receive attention in the
forenoon.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Protecting Bush Fruits. — When fruit-nets are
allowed to rest on the bushes, they are often much
damaged in moving them off and on ; this is
especially the case with Gooseberries. Both,
therefore, on the ground of convenience and of
ultimate economy it is much better either to have
permanent supports for the ordinary fruit-nets
or to net all over with bird-proof wire-netting.
It has sometimes been alleged that in the event of
the latter method being adopted, damage would
result through drip from the overhead netting.
The subject was discussed at the December meeting
of the Scottish Horticultural Association, when
those who have had long experience of this method
of protection testified that the allegation was
groundless.

The Kitchen Garden.

The Seed Order. — When making up the seed
order do not fail to include the following useful
items : Seakale, Beet, Asparagus Kale, Sutton's
Sprouting Greens and Turnip-rooted Beet for early
use.

Brussels Sprouts. — Do not throw away plants
which have been stripped bare ; when growth
commences in spring the growing tops will furnish
a very nice dish before the early Cabbages turn in.

Rhubarb. — If some loose litter or leaves are thrown
over a portion of the crowns, a supply will be avail-
able from the open air a fortnight before the crop
comes away naturally. But as these form a com-
fortable harbour for mice, which often attack the
crowns, a few traps should be set near, or a little
Rodine provided for them. Charles Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

January ii, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

27

HORTICULTURAL CHANGES
IN THIRTY-FOUR YEARS.

* S a regular subscriber to The Garden

/\ and one whose first article appeared

/ % as long ago as 1879, I thank the Editor

/ % for his good vishes at the commence-
A » ment of a New Year, which good wishes

I am sure will be heartily reciprocated
by all readers of this journal. On such an occasion
one may be pardoned a slight retrospect of the
various changes that have taken place within the
last thirty-lour years and of the plants that were
then quite unknown or looked upon as of minor
importance, but which now occupy a prominent
position.

Of those quite undreamt of may be mentioned
the Streptocarpus's, Gerberas, Kalanchofes, many
Primulas (especially P. obconica and P. mala-
coides), Golden-flowered .*\rums, and Cannas, at
least in the light in which they are considered
to-day, namely, as among the most desirable o(
flowering plants.

In the case of Koses, too, the changes have been
great, for the single-flowered varieties were then
completely ignored, the Hybrid Perpetuals were
unchallenged by the Hybrid Teas, and the pretty
little Polyantha race was then imborn. Rosa
wichuraiana, too, whose introduction has had
such far-reaching results, was then still in residence
in far-off Japan, and had not made its appearance
in this country.

Of Dahlias the massive show varieties, the
fancies and the pretty little Pompons occupied
the foremost position, though the single-flowered
and the Cactus varieties were just beginning to
assert themselves.

In Begonias great changes have taken place,
not only in the tuberous-rooted section, but also
in other classes. The most prominent feature of
all has been the great influence of Begonia socotratia
in giving us a magnificent race of winter-flowering
kinds.

While Pelargoniums are as popular as ever,
some sections, namely, the tricolor, show and fanc%-.
have almost disappeared, but the members of the
Zonal section are still universally grown, and in
the Ivy-leaved class great strides have been
made

In 1879 Chrysanthemums were firmly on the
upward grade, and after a few years they reached
the height of popularity ; but whether they still
hold that position has more than once of late
furnished groimd for argument.

The last decade has seen the meteoric rise of
Perpetual-flowering Carnations and Sweet Peas,
both of wliich occupy a far more important position
than ever ; and much the same may be said of
hybrid Orchids, whose one stumbling-block is the
outrageously long and, to the average person,
senseless names applied to many of them.

Other features of the last thirty-four years are
the gradual disappearance of specimen stove and
greenhouse plants, especially of the hard-wooded
class, and the continually increasing popularity
of hardy plants of all kinds, either for the rock
garden, herbaceous border, or the varied purposes
to which they may be applied. Hardy trees and
shrubs, especially those with showy blossoms,
also occupy a higher position than they ever did
before.

The rise of the Daffodil, too, must not be passed
over, and the Rev. J. Jacob would tell us that
Tulips, thanks to the Darwins and May-flowering

varieties, are becoming increasingly popular agaui
while in both fruit and vegetables great strides have
tiaken place. This li.st might be indefinitely
extended, but the Editor's blue pencil is still a
power in the land, so I will now brmg my few
remarks to a close. W. Truelovk.

SILVER TROPHY FOR AMATEURS'
ROCK GARDENS.

.\s already announced in our pages (see July 27,
1912, page 373), the Council of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society will offer a silver trophy, pre-
sented to them by Mr. Clarence Elliott of Stevenage,
for an exhibit of alpines and other plants suitable
for a rock garden. These are to be arranged with
rockwork in a space 6 feet by 3 feet, and the compe-
tition is to take place on May 14. The trophy,
to be known as the Clarence Elliott Trophy, illus-
trated herewith, has been designed and carried

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAf Eiiitor inlende to
make THE Gardkn hti/ifut to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one svle of the paper only^
and addressed to the EDITOR of 'I'HR G.^RDEN, 20, Tamstock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The n«me and address
of the sender are required in arldition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more titan one
query is sent, eacli should be on a separate piece of paper^
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool , and flowering
slioots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the PdbliSHRR.

THE CLARENCE ELLIOTT TROPHY, OF-
FERED TO AMATEURS FOR ROCK
GARDEN PLANTS.

out by the well-known sculptor Mr. Allan G. Wyon.
It is valued at 21 guineas, and is to be won out-
right. The object of the donor in presenting
the trophy for competition among amateurs is
to stimulate interest in rock gardening. The beauty
of arrangement of rocks and plants, together with
the suitability of the plants employed, are points
for special consideration. Full details of the rules
governing the competition will be foimd in the
forthcoming Book of Arrangements issued by the
Royal Horticultural Society, Vincent Square,
Westminster, or they may be had from Mr.
Clarence EUintt, .Six Hills Nursery, Stevenage,
Herts.

On page 19 of this issue readers will see
that we are offering valuable prizes for the best
rock gardens, and we hope that those who have
gardens of this kind will send us photographs of
them.

FLOWER GARDEN.

SWEET PEAS (E..1/.7'.).— We should certainly keep the
Sweet Pe.as, but they will be far better outside in some
position where they can be readily protected from birds,
snow or torrential rain, and in no circumstances must
frost be allowed to crack the pots. As a matter of pre-
{ eaution we should sow again about the middle of February*
' Your mana'jement must have been good to secure such
an excellent result from the seeds sown.

LIMING THE SOIL (IT. C. B.).~On your soil, which
is liiilit and sandy, except for the purpose of kiHius pests,
chalk in a powdered form is the best to use in.stead of
either slaked lime or quicklime. It should be spread
at the rate of half a bushel to one bushel to the square rod
now, and forked in in the ordinary course of dicginsl. Crops
may be planted immediately afterwards. The cost
depends lar'.;;ely upon the distance the stult' has to 'be
carted from the pits, but there are probably pits in your
nrar neighbourhood,

THE BEST KNIPHOFIA (Jm).— For purposes of
display you cannot do better than grow K. aloides in
variety, and by embracing the typical form with K. a.
glaucescens and K. a. nobilis, a rather long flowering seasoB
would be secured. The first named is about four feet high,
the others range from 5 feet to 7 feet, and are superb
when well established. Perhaps one of the best is John
Senary, most brilliant in colour, but somewhat more
expensive that the others named. All are vigorous growers
and very tree-flowering. We do not know of an enthely
cattle-proof Rose, and the more prickly sorts are as liable
to get eaten as the rest. Unfortunately, cattle do not
wait till the spines are fully developed, but often take
the shoots in the young state ; hence the difficulty.
As they are 4 feet distant from the fence, however, we
should imagine all but the more straggling of the branches
would be safe.

GROWING NEW ZEALAND FLAX FROM SEEDS
(.Mrs. C). — The New Zealand Flax, Phormium tenax,
may be raised quite well from seeds, providing they
are' sown after they are ripe. If you sow them at once
in well-drained boxes or pans, in a compost of equal parts
of peat, leaf-mould and sand, in a temperature of from
'iO° to 55°, they ought to germinate during early spring.
Do not cover the seeds deeply : one-eighth of an inch of
soil will be quite sufficient for the purpose. After sowing,
water well, and cover each box or pan with a sheet of glass
and a sheet of brown paper. These will help to keep the
soil moist without undue applications of water. When
the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick them out
in boxes •j'inches apart each way, and when well estab-
lished place in a cold frame. Allow them to remain there
until the following spring ; then transplant them into a
bed of rich loamy soil of a moist nature. Plant 1 foot
apart, and the following spring transfer them to permanent
positions, which should be moist rather than dry. The
fibre from the leaves has been experimented with for
various purposes in this country, but so far the plant
has not been cultivated for commercial purpose?.

LILY OF THE VALLEY AND PffiONIES (JV?s(a).—
With your shallow soil — 6 inches on chalk — we cannot
hold out much hope of permanent or even temporary
success with the first named, and the latter we do not advise
you to plant at all. There is no great difBculty in culti-
vating Lily of the Valley with an assured dept b of at least
15 inches of good soil, though high e.i;cellence would only
ensue with moisture nex-t the roots. If these were not
present, the best varieties would soon dwindle to the
size of those seen in woodland places ; hence our advice
is to considerably deepen the soil by excavating the chalk
and supplying good garden soil in its stead. As you only
require a small bed. the preparation suggested would not be
a serious item. Single crowns of the I/ilies may be planted
6 inches asunder, and small clumps of not more than
six crowns each — larger are not recommended — at 9 inches
apart each way. Tlie Berlin and Victoria are among
the larger-flowered varieties, though size is very much
a matter of soil and generous cultivation. The Pc-eonies
would requhe at least 21 feet of good soil. They root
deeply and are very voracious ; hence need quite rich soil
also. The old double crimson European Pseony is au

28

THE GAflDEN„

[January ii, 1913-

exception and roots iess deeply than the taller-growinG;
Chinese forms, and for this 2 feet of good, well-cultivated
soil would suffice. The plants should be set alternately
at 2 feet aaiinderj

THE GREENHOUSE.

INJURY TO AZALEAS (Pepper).— There is no ia^ect
or fungus on the Azalea to account for its condition.
There are aphides, d'C, in the house, however, with it,
which call for fumigation. The Azalea has died from
improper watering. Possibly the repotting was done
so that the water drains through without wetting the
whole of the soil, a frequent and fatal cause of trouble
with these plants. Tn any case, we are sure that either
a lack or a plethora of water is the cause of the plants*
condition.

POINSETTIAS A FAILURE (A. itf.).— There was
nothing about the plant sent to indicate any reason for
the whole batch behaving as they have done, but we
should say that in all probability the plants received some
severe check just as the bracts were developing. What
feat was likely to be we must leave for you to find out.
It may be a chill, an insufficient supply of water, or too
strong a dose of stimulants. Poinsettias may be grown
coolly during the summer, and then they readily respond
to a little heat in the autumn.

VARIETIES CF CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHI-
BITION U'Jrhibiior). — For showin^: in Class 1 you should
grow plants of Master James, Evangeline, Mrs. Luxford
and Rose Pockett ; for Class 2, Master James and Evange-
line ; for Class 3, Mrs. Luxford ; for Class 4, ladysmith,
Ceddie Mason, Mary Richardson and Mensa ; for Class 5,
F. L. Vallis (two). White Queen (two), Mrs. Marsham
(one) and Mrs. L. Thorn (one) ; and for Class 6, Mrs.
William Knox and Mrs. R. F. Felton. All the varieties
named flower fairly early, are free, dwarf in habit and
carry good foliage.

CARNATION DISEASED (M. PT.).— The death of the
shoots of the Carnation is due to the attack upon them
of a species of Fusarium (apparently undescribed). This
fungus seem? to gain an entrance into the shoots wliich
have been cut back after (lowering. In every case among
those you send the trouble originated in the snag left
on cutting back, and spread so as to check the water
supply to the young lateral which was pusliing, and caused
its death. We suggest that you should cut back the
growths to the node, and not leave the inch or so of snag
beyond, for that will more rapidly aid the plant in healing
the wound you make, and so reduce the chance of infec-
tion. This will greatly check the spread of the trouble.
All diseased pieces should be cut away and burned as
soon as they appear, so as to check the distribution of
the spores, and keep the air of the liouse as dry as you
conveniently can.

"^'TTLEYA GIGAS NOT FLOWERING (T. i^.).— We
have heard of a shy-flowering variety of this beautiful
species being in commerce, but cannot vouch for its
accuracy. The probable cause of the non-production
of flowers is due to some cultural error. When brought
under cultivation, each plant requires as much light as
possible without injury to the foliage, while air is also
an important item and must be admitted on every favour-
able opportunity. Suspend the plants about two feet
from the roof-glass, and as the pseudo-bulbs near com-
pletion more light and air can be allowed, so that they are
thorougtdy ripened. Such subjects as Cattleya gigas
and C. aurea are often grown in too dense phade, and are
in consequence shy flowering. To produce flowers the
plants ought not to be too green. To the amateur this
is a healthy sign, but the experienced grower does not
mind if his plants present a somewhat yellow appearance,
because he is more sure of getting flowers. In their native
habitat the best blooms are always found on plants well
exposed to the sun, while on plants growing in the shade
the blooms are less numerous and of poor quality.

PLANT FOR NAME AND TREATMENT (.7. 5.).—
The name of the specimen sent is Crassula arborescens,
a native of South Africa. It is quite possible that your
plant will be all the better for a larger pot, but do not
disturb it before April. It will thrive in a compost mainly
consisting of loam, with an admixtiire of leaf-mould or
peat, broken brick rubble and sand. From its succulent
nature it needs to be kept moderately dry during the
winter months, and an excess of moisture may be the
cause of your plant losing some of its leaves, while, on the
other hand, the old and exhausted ones may have died
otf naturally. It needs to be kept safe from frost. In
potting, ellective drainage must be ensured and the soil
pressed down moderately firm. It must during the winter
be kept safe from frost. If you desire to increase your
plant, shoots such as the specimen you sent for naming
will make suitable cuttings, which will strike root witliout
difficulty if put into well-drained potr, of sandy soil and
care is taken not to overwater them. At the same time,
the soil must be kept moderately moist. They will
strike root well in a light position in a window.
h- TREATMENT OF GERBERAS iEnquver).—lD yonr
district (Cheshire) you had better resort to pot culture
and greenhouse treatment entirely, save, perhaps, for
the hot summer months, when you might plunge the
plants in their pots in beds to flower. In favoured dis-
tricts near the coast the plant is reliably hardy in the open
without protection, while in Surrey, Middlesex, Cambridge
and other places, if given the shelter of a greenhouse wall
and a light covering in winter-time, it does fairly well.
As a native of South Africa, the plant revels in heat and,
in our experience, moisture too. Some plants that had
bean exposed to the winter in pots and got into a bad way

recovered in an iucredibly short time when repotted
and placed in the Cucumber-house where heat and mois-
ture prevailed. The spring is the best season for potting
tliem, as at that time the plants re-ume active leaf and
root growth. No ; the plants should not be kept " in
fairly small pots," whatever that may imply, but be given
liberal root-room. With good greenhouse treatment
plants of a few months old are capable of producing a
solitary flower-head, and for the flrst year pots 4V inches
across will suffice. In the second year atford them 6-inch
pots. Give them a fairly rich compost of loam, leaf-mould
and sand, with some well-decomposed stable manure at
the rate of one-fifth part of the other materials. The
manure should be rubbed through a sieve of rather fine
mesh.

Be careful not to let your tree get dry at any time, winter
or summer. If you do not know what is the best soil
for Peach trees, let us know and we will help you further.

ROSE GARDEN.

PROTECTING BRIARS FROM THE STEM-BORER

(F. C.). — This pest can be stopped by painting tlic vmU
over with painter's knotting, and also with liquid gnifting-
wax.

CURIOUS GROWTH IN ROSES (T^/fty).— The curious
growths on the Rose appear to be galls produced by the
attack of tlie Hose canker fungus, Coniothyrinm Fuchelii.
You did quite right to cut the stem out. and it would be
well also to paint the cut end of the stem with lead paint
or tar.

STRONG-GROWING ROSES (RUGOSA STOCK) (North).
— We should say the so-called " shrub " upon which
some Roses are budded is the rugosa stock, or Japanese
Rose. This variety is capable of being grown with tall
stems, and is largely employed by foreign growers and
also some English nurserymen for standard Roses. The
only objection to it is that the stems are not very straight,
but Roses budded upon it make remarkably large heads.

TRANSPLANTING BUDDED STANDARD BRIARS
(,/. (;_),_— It would be best to leave the Briars where they
are until next autumn. They would do much better
than if moved this season. Frau Karl Druschki is a good
Rose to grow on its own roots. Rambler Roses of the
wichuraiana type planted last autumn need not be pruned
back in the spring, save just the extreme end of the
shoots, but the mnltiflora tribe are best cut back to about
three feet.

SELECTIONS OF ROSES (Rosary). — Eight well-varied
Polyantha Roses of similar growth to each other would
be Jessie, Orleans Rose, Katherina Zeiraet. Cecile Brunner,
Caaaricnvo^el, Petite Con=itanbe, White Cecile Brunner
and Leonie Laraesch. The four best China Roses are
Comtesse du Cayla, Laurette Messimy, Fabvier and
Ducher. These will grow from 2 feet to 3 feet in height.
The 3-feet standards would be about right to plant behind
them. We should prefer one variety in a row, and eight
best kinds would be Caroline Testout, Mme. Llavary,
Prince de Biilgarie, Pharisaer, General Macarthur, Gustave
Granerwald, Mme. Abel Chatenay and Chateau de Clos
Vougeot.

PRUNING WICHURAIANA ROSES (U. G. B ).— We
are afraid you liave pruned the plants too severely. This
tribe are not like the multifloras, ivhich should have most
of their old wood removed, but are best allowed to retain
some of the two and three year old growths, and by so
doing check the tendency to premature new growth that
seems inherent in them. If these two and three year old
growths have their laterals cut back hard in March, they
will yield splendid trusses of blooms from them. Too
frequently the summer growths are soft, and unless pro-
duced in early summer will not be so serviceable as the
two year old shoots. We think you had best leave the
young growths untouched, but smother them with
Bracken or straw sliould severe weather come If
these get injured, you need not fear that the plants will
not send up plenty more next summer. Spread the
growths out all you can and do not coddle them at all.
If young growtlis are injured by cutting them back to
one eye, they will break out again and bloom as though
nothing had happened.

FRUIT GARDEN.

PEAR TREE AND FRUIT-SPURS (B. J. i.).— The
swollen shoots are not marks of disease in the tree.
They are the shoots (spurs) which bore fruits this season,
and you evidently had a good crop. There is nothing to
fear from their presence.

PRUNING FRUIT TREES (fF. G. 0)— All you have to
do is to prune back all the side shoots of this year's growt-h,
the strong ones to three buds from their base (meaning
from the branch from which they emanated) and the
weaker ones to two buds from their base. The terminal
shoot of each main branch should be pruned back to the
extent of one-third its length.

PEACH TREE FAILURE {Trouhledy— There are, we
think, two mistakes in your treatment In the flrst place,
top-dressing. Instead of taking an inch of the old soil
off, you should have taken as many inches off as would
expose a good body of roots, even if you had to take
6 inches or 7 inches off, and then lay a top-dressing on the
top of these roots, 6 inches deep, of the best Peach soil,
ramming it down firmly while it was fairly dry. This
new soil this spring and summer will be filled with a great
mass of new roots, which will carry the crop safe tlirough,
with the aid of surface mulching and stable manure in
summer and the careful application of weak liquid manure.
The other mistake you made was in applying a top-
dressing of nasty pig-manure to the border. Peacli trees
do not like this cold, raw stuff over their roots in winter.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

VEGETABLES FOR GENERAL USE {E:i/iinrp r).~
This is a matter of taste on which opinions differ widely,
and probably no two persons are like-minded in the
matter. We give a list below of the best kinds of vege-
tables usually grown in English gardens, from which we
hope you may be able to make an agreeable selection.
We have denoted those kinds we would prefer to grow, if
restricted to only twelve kinds, by asterisks. Beans — Broad,
French and Kidney — we place as one kind, only for the
purposes of this list. Artichokes (Jerusalem and Globe),
•Asparagus, 'Beans, Beetroot, *Broccoli, *BrussPls
Sprouts, *C)abbage, Celeriac, *Celery, 'Carrots, •Cauli-
flowers, Cnleworts, Seakale, 'Leeks, Vegetable Marrow,
Mushrooms, 'Onions, Parsnips, *Peas, 'Potatoes and
Turnips.

MISCELLANEOUS.

STAINING A SUMMER-HOUSE (H. E.).—Yoii cannot
do better tlian have your summer-house stained a dark
oak or mahogany. We do not think that paint would be
suitable witli the Heather-thatched roof.

MALT-DUST AS MANURE {W. E. IT .).— Malt-dust is
a valuable fertiliser, and if it can be obtained cheaply is
well worth using. Like all organic matters, it should
be applied some time before it is actually wanted by the
crop, so as to allow time for the soil bacteria to act upon
it. Either winter or early spring would do well, and it
should be dug in, not used as a top-dressing, except on
pots.

COLLECTIONS OF VEGETABLES {R-mk'op).— The
Ruyal Horticultural Society's book, " Code of Rules for
Judging," gives the following points value to the vegetables
you 'mention at tlie exhibition held in mid-September,
these being the maximum, which are very seldom attained :
Collection A. — Potatoes, 8 points ; Celery, 8 points ;
Carrots, 8 points ; Turnips, 6 points ; French Beans,
7 points : Cauliflower, 8 points ; Tomatoes, 8 points ;
Onions, 8 points ; Cucumber, 7 points — total, 68 points.
These figures prove little or nothing. They only suggest
a standard maximum figure as an aid to pointing.

GRASS FOR PEAT LAND IN VANCOUVER. B.C. (W. S.).
— Holcus lanatus has been found to be one of the be?t
trasses for covering poor peaty ground in Western North
America, and preparing the way for more profitable kinds.
One or two seasons of this grass are, as a rule, quite
sufficient, for it is not a remunerative kind to grow. Its
feeding properties are said to be good once stock take
a fancy to it ; but horses prefer other kinds when
obtainable. Although, if left unattended, it is likely to
crowd out better kinds, it may be killed out fairly easily
by mowing it down beiore the seeds set, tliereby prevent-
ing the self sowing of seeds. If you write to the Depart-
ment of Agriculture for Canada, you will probably be able
to obtain an expert opinion on the best kinds of grass to
follow the Holcus.

A WATER-LOGGED FIELD (W L. 5.).— Your only
chance of turning your field into a profitable garden is
to have it properly drained, even if you have to obtain
permission to lay a new main drain, with the i roper fall
to the outlet three-quarters of a mile away. You would
find this considerably cheaper and better than moundinn
up the ground as you suggest. A garden made of small
hillocks and catchpits would be both unsightly and
dangerous, while the expense would be very great. Your
new drain could be started 3 feet or 34 feet below the
surface, and branch drains could be connected with it,
starting at li feet below the surface. This would ensure
the proper draining of the top soil, and you would not
need to introduce much new material, for by trenching
the ground li feet deep the various kinds of soil would be
broken up and mixed together, making it suitable for most
of the plants you might wish to grow. In addition to
being difficult to work in wet weather, crops planted on
very wet ground are subject to injury by spring frosts ;
therefore everything is against successful gardening under
the conditions you describe. If you lay new drains, be
careful to cover the pipes with stones to keep out dirt.

WOODLICE AND VIOLETS (A. D. M .).— Woodlice are
purticularlv fond of retiring during the day into some dark,
dry spot, wliere they are out of sight till darkness sets in.
and they recommence their work of mischief. This habit
may be taken advantage of, in order to trap them in a whole-
sale manner, thus : Small fiower-pots filled loosely with
some dry moss or hay can be laid on their sides where they
most congregate, and if examined during the day these
pe-sts will be found hiding therein. The quickest way to
destroy them is to examine the contents of each pot over
a pail containing some boiling water, as the pests quickly
drop when disturbed, and some may otherwise escape.
Two pieces of board, one laid on the top of the other in
such a manner that there is just enough space for the
woodlice to get between, will also trap many. Besides
this, they probably liave some favourite haunts at the foot of
the wall, and, if so, a few kettlefuls of boiling water poured
therein will destroy considerable numbers. Potatoes or
Turnips hollowed out and placed on the ground hollow
side downwards will al>=o prove very attractive to them.
They can then be killed by dropping them into boiling water.
Paris green, a preparation of arsenic mixed with sugar
and barley-meal, is said to be very effective in destroying
these pests, but we have always found the trapping of them
to be effectual if persistently carried out.

■■«5- ^fe*^

m&^s.-

GARDEN.

^S^

-^£5'"

l^5&

No. 214S.— Vol. LXXVII.

January 18, 1913.

CONTSINTS.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Notes of the Week..

coebespondence

liOQlcera fragrautls-

sima iu a Fifoshire

garden . .

Rose Sarah Bernhardt

The Tulip Tree in

America
Fatsia japonica
Khododeudrou uoble-

auum

Abutilou vitifolium iu

Ireland

fabiana imbricata ..
Winter - flowering

plants

t orthcomiDg events .,
Gardening Acrostics
Prizes roii the Best

KocK Gardens
Coloured Plate

some new Ceutaureas
Kitchen Garden
Forcing Suakale
Potato While City..
Rose Garden
Some of the newer
decorative Itoses..
Some little-known red
Hybrid Tea Hoses
rLOWEtt Garden
A bold herbaceous
plant

FLOWER Garden

sweet Pea notes . . 33
Lilies : A causerie . . 34
Rock and Water Garden
Ranunculus Lyalli id

JN'ew Zealand . . 35
Saxifrage cliffs in rock

gardens 35

Fruit (jarden

The best Plums and

their cultivation , .

Greenhouse

Winter - flowering

greenhouse Heaths

A seasonable note on

Aui'iculus

How TO repair

Hollow Trees
Gardenino of the Week
i'or Southern gar-
dens 38

I'or ^'orthern gar-
dens 33

New and Rare

plants 39

The Misuse of

Manures 39

The "Woburn " Plant-
ing OF Fruit Trees 39
Plants Flowering

out of season ., 40
Books 40

liili a ST RATIONS.

Rhododendron nobleanum in full flower at Kew .. 30

Potato White City 32

An ornamental Kale (Crambe orientale) 33

Part of a >"ew Zealand rock garden 34

Liiium giganteum in Mr. E. A, Bowles' garden , . 35

A white-flowered Heatli (Erica gracilis alba) . . . . 36

How to repair hollow trees 37

BDITORIAIi NOTICHS.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, mil be taken, and where stampg
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contrilnttioHS.

As regards photographs, if payment be deured, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or lUerary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof muit not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Gakden iiill alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tai-istock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

Winter Greens Running to Seed.— The effect

of the mild weatlier so generallv experienced until
quite recently has had a remarkable effect on winter
greens, .^t the present time we have Savoy
Cabbages and Drumhead Kale almost in flower,
while even the hard buttons ot Brussels Sprouts
have burst and are pushing out flowering shoots.
So far Chou de Russie and Purple Sprouting
Broccoli ha\'e not misbehaved in this way.

Old Cyclamen Plants.— Now that the Cycla-
mens are once more adding their quota of beauty
to the conservatory, it may be interesting to
raise the question of their longevity. Owing to
the general practice of growing them for one season
of flowering only, it may be difficult to secure
reliable data on this point. We know personally
of one plant that is at least twenty-five years old,
and which still gives annually a good display of
flowers. It is grown in a cottage window, and is
a sweet-scented form of C. persicum. Can any of
our readers beat this ?

New Secretary for Shrewsbury Show.— We
understand on good authority that Mr. W. G.
Brazier has been appointed secretary of the Shrop-
shire Horticultural Society, under the auspices of
which the great Shrewsbury Show is held. Mr.
Brazier has been connected with the firm of Messrs.
Adnitt and Natmton, the late secretaries, for
twenty-five years, and will, therefore, be well
versed in his new duties. There were nearly fifty
applicants for the post. We take this opportunity
of wishing the new secretary every success and the
society continued prosperity.

Rose Dorothy Perkins.— This Rose is almost
an evergreen. In ordinary seasons the leaves
remain on in great numbers throughout the winter ;
but our own plants, and others we see in gardens
wide apart, are almost as green now as in summer.
Last autumn, no doubt owing to the dull weather
of the summer, the leaves were very green, also the
bark of the branches ; but in the autumn of
191 r the leaves and the bark were of a bronze
colour. The wood is none too ripe now, and,
as there is plenty of it, cultivators would do well
to thin out old branches forthwith where there is
overcrowding.

A Pretty Outdoor Effect.— Quite recently a
pretty outdoor effect was noted from a group of
a red-stemmed Cornus carpeted with Winter
Aconites, the contrast between the red and yellow
being very marked, especially when the sun was
shining. Such an effect may be easily repro-
duced, for both plants are cheap and easily obtained,
while they tlurive almost anywhere. By selecting
one of the variegated-leaved Cornuses, such as
alba variegata or Spathii, the double advantage
is obtained of having a decorative winter group
and one which is showy throughout the summer.
In some instances the idea may be varied by using
Snowdrops or Chionodoxas for the groundwork.

The Caucasian Scabious. — This is undoubtedly-
one of the finest liardy perennials in cultivation,
and as it will thrive and flower freely in almost
any soil or situation, it can be strongly recom-
mended. It produces large heads of pale lilac
flowers 3 inches to 4 inches across, while the stems-
are long, which renders it also an ideal subject
for cutting purposes.

The Glastonbury Thorn.— in regard to this

remarkable Crataegus, whicli is still flowering in
many gardens, it is interesting to recall the legend
associated with its past history. The Glastonbury
Thorn is alleged to be a descendant of Joseph of
Ariraathea's staff, which grew when he stuck it
in* the ground at Glastonbury. This tree is a
variety of the common May or Hawthorn, whicb
usually flowers about New Year's Dav ; the date
of flowering is, however, largely dependent on the"
season.

Sowing Early Peas.— Although it is rather
early yet to sow Peas in the open garden, it may
be useful to pass on a hint that was given us some
years ago by the late Charles Foster. It is to-
cover the seeds very lightly instead of the usual
r-inch or 2-inch covering that is desirable for
later sowings. Also, if the soil is mainly clay,
some sand or old potting soil placed under and
over the seeds will do much to prevent them
decaying. To sow Peas very early deeply in wet,
cold soil is to invite failure. The above hint also-
applies to early sowings of Sweet Peas in the out-
door garden.

Swede Turnips for the Dining-Room. — It

is ditticult to understand why the small, garden
forms of the Swede Turnip are not more extensively
grown for human consumption. Just now we
are enjoying some excellent little roots that have
been stored m soil in a cool shed since November,
and much prefer them to the watery white Turnips-
that are so largely used. We believe that the
Swede Turnips contain the greatest amount of
nutrition. In making out the seed order, include
a small packet of garden Swede Turnips, give
them good soil so that growth is rapid, and then
test them with the white Turnips next winter.

A Rare Shrub (Elliottia racemosa). — Concern-
ing this rarity Mr. W. J. Bean, in his notes on
" New and Rare Slurubs " now appearing io
Coimtry Life, says : " Unless, as one hopes, some
unsuspected colony exists in a wild state, it seems
likely that this shrub vvill~meet the same fate as-
the great auk, and disappear as a living thing-
from the earth — to future generations only known
by museum specimens." Apparently very few
plants are known to e.xist in a wild state, and these,
like cultivated ones, seem to have lost the powers
of reproduction by seed. It is a native of Georgia,
U.S.A., and only two plants are at present known
to be alive in Europe, both at Kew. .\ descriptive
article and illustration of this extremely rare plant,
belonging to the Heath family, appeared in our
issue dated September 30, 1911.

30

THE GAKDEN.

[January i8, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Lonicera fragrantissima in a Fifeshire Garden.

This extrpinely iisttul Wiiitfi-fluwfniii; Honey^iukle
has given us its pretty cream-coloured flowers
ioT the last two years in the third week of December.
It remains in bloom for a long time, and on fine
■days gives off its delicate fragrance quite freely.
Planted three years ago against a south wall and

evenly and straight. It bears transplanting well,
and is a very rapid grower. One I have in
mind grew fully 60 feet in fourteen years. It takes
its name from the shape of its flower, which
resembles the Tulip. It is only attacked by a
scale insect, which can be cheeked. In an autumn
of moderate rain and plentiful sunshine, the first
touch of frost turns it yellow, nnd it soon gains its
colour, which seems like solid sunshine. — F. A. S.

Fatsia japonica. — On page 635, issue Decem-
ber 21 ot TriE Garden, " C. T." refers to this
plant as grown in the open air in the Highgate

fairly well sheltered, it is now forming a nice plant. I district. North London. In the South of Hampshire
It is easily propagated from cut-
tings inserted in a cold frame in
August, and should be in every
:garden where winter - flowering
■shrubs in the open are in demand.
—J. W. E.

Rose Sarah Bernhardt. — It is
rather amusing to read some of
Mr. Molyneux's notes on the newer
Roses. I do not consider he is
justified in saying, as he does on
page q, January 4 issue, that " the
trade appears to have overlooked
this Rose," just because perhaps
he does not find it mentioned in
■catalogues that he has. I know
for a fact that two well-known
firms have listed it ever since its
introduction by Dubrieul in rgoS,
and I myself have exhibited it
for the last four summers. I have
not only grown it, but I have
a salmon-coloured sport from it
that was budded in 1910. — Dan'E-
<;roft.

Rhododendron nobleanum. —
Among large - leaved e\'ergreen
Rhododendrons, this is the first to
flower. The blooms sometimes open
in November, and frequently, dur-
ing] a spell of mild weather from
December to February, large
bushes make a nice display. The
mild weather of the past month
has resulted in an exceptionally
brilliant display of flowers on two
large groups of this variety in the
Rhododendrim Dell at Kew. The
illustration, prepared from a photo-
graph taken on New Year's Day,
of a portion of one of the bushes
will give readers some idea of its
beauty. The plants form large
bushes, 10 feet to r5 feet high.
The flowers are brilliant rose,
changing with age to a paler
-shade. R. nobleanum is a hybrid,
the result of a cross between R.
arboreum and R. caucasicum.

It is readily
propagated by grafting or layering. Flowering
naturally in midwinter, R. nobleanum is a
valuable subject for the greenhouse, the blooms
opening at Christmas without the extra heat
necessary to force most hardy subjects into flower
by that date.— A. O.

The Tulip Tree in America.— In the issue of

The Garden of Decemljer 28 I notice a letter
■on the Tulip Tree, where it is said it is called
the Saddle Tree in the United States. In the
Hudson River Valley, where the tree is found in
numbers in the uncared-for woods, it is known as
the Tulip Tree. Give it room and it will grow

plants 7 feet through and 5 feet high, with leaves
touching the ground. The many burrs this season
are the result of the hot weather of 1911. — G. G.

Lewisias Cotyledon and Howellii. — In answer
to Mr. .-\riiott's note last week, page 18, I can only
say that my personal experience is short. I saw
these in flower in another garden two years ago
for the first time, and, carried away by their
distinctive beauty, purchased a lot from their
native home. These, as I before stated, came to
hand last November, arriving in a very bad con-
dition through defective packing. As we had
just constructed a little moraine, three of each were
planted on the very top, just
where the south-west storms —
turned aside by striking the front
of our house — expend their force
with double fury, and yet they
went through the winter and
faced the terrible storm of last
spring, which almost killed a Y'ew
hedge adjoining, quite smashed
up and killed a glorious specimen
"f Cytisus pallidus alongside, and
ruined some fine little specimen
miniature conifers near them.
The Lewisias smiled happily
through it all. Other plants were
put on a wall garden in ordinary
stony soil, and the rest potted.
All have lived and grown as
heartily as any plant we know
could have done. We expected
that some of these much-travelled,
bedraggled plants would have
died ; but no, they have simply
gone on, both inside and outside
alike, though they have not yet
got up courage enough to bloom.
This I look for next season.
From the appearance of the roots
and the experience of one season,
I should say that poor, stony soil
of a good depth — say, 2 feet to
3 feet at least — and a sunny,
warm aspect are necessary to their
successful culture. Given these,
I should not fear to plant them
almost anywhere. Of course, I
may yet be startled by a change
in their behaviour. So far I am
quite satisfied, even though I
have not yet had a single bloom ;
but I am no longer young, and
so have learned to be patient.
Our situation is not a good one
for delicate things, though many of
our friends who visit us in summer
think it is. While mild as regards
frost, the whole village is swept
by the storms from the south-
the Fatsia does remarkably well in the open border, west to such an extent that standard Roses cannot.
Your correspondent says that the bulk of the plants and even bush Roses can hardly, exist, while few

RHODODENDRON NOBLEANUM IN FULL FLOWER IN THE DELL AT
KEW. THE PHOTOGR.\PH WAS TAKEN ON NEW YEAR'S DAY.

he has noticed in gardens are leggy, with only a
few leaves covering the top portions of the stems,
and they were never left to face the winter. It
lifted or retained in pots, no doubt the plants
would frequently lose some of the basal leaves.
He may, however, be interested to learn that even
in this part of Hampshire, where the plants grow
in the open borders undisturbed for many years,
quite a number of those grown in very hot positions
lose many basal .leaves, and so there are many
leggy specimens to be seen. In more sheltered

evergreen shrubs can be kept alive in gardens
of the villagers. Again, our soil is a moist, reten-
tive one, and growth goes on until the frost comes
and cuts things down. We simply cannot grow
very many things I see in our own Lakeland
gardens and in the gardens on the north side of
the Solway, and of many others we can never
emulate the glorious specimens I often see. Of
course, our collection is a remarkable one, but
manv of the plants are only kept in stock by
the expenditure of much thought and care. — J-

corners, not very hot, there are spreading, vigorous Stormonth, Kirkbride, Carlisle.

n

Stippli'iiiciil to THE GARlJEX. January \'^lli, 1913.

f

SOMh GOOD CENTAUREAS

1. "Bride."

2. " Bridegroom."

3. "Bridesmaid."

4. " Honeymoon."

titittson & lie

January i8, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

31

Abutilon vitifolium in Ireland. — This shrub
appears to be quite hardy here, some eighteen miles
trorii the sea and 250 feet above sea-level. I
send you a photograph of one of my plants, taken
when in full Noon:. We recently had 17' of frost,
but it escaped unhurt. — H. D. M. Barton, The
Bush, Antrim. [Unfortunately, the photograp!'.
which depicted a very good plant, was not sharp
i-uough for reproduction. — Ep.]

Fabiana imbricata. — How strange it is we
do not sec more plants of this Heath-like
s\ibject in the garden ! When we consider how
freely it grows and the abundant manner in which
I it blossoms aimually, the wonder is emphasised.
Eight years ago I put a small plant in a border
only to inches wide and 18 inches deep next
to a brick path at the foot of a south wall, where
it has grown luxuriantly and has given extremely
heavy crops of its pure white blossoms yearly
without exception. If short pieces of the current
year's growth are broken off in a downward direc-
tion in .\ugust or September and dibbled in sandy
sr)il in a cold frame, every piece will grow and quickly
form a stocky plant. I do not say this plant will
succeed in the open in any situation or soil, but,
given a warm site, such as a south w-all, in sandy
or peaty soil, it will quickly establish itself as a
favourite in May and June when in flower and
without occupying much space. — E. M.

Winter-flowering Plants. — The finest flowering

plant here at present is Laurustinus, many of the
bushes of which are white with the bloom. The
south side of a hedge of this plant is also covered
with flowers. It does not give such a fine display
every year, but the flowers, if not always so soon out
as this season, seldom fail to make a fine display
somewhat later. Very fine, too, is a variety of
Arbutus, of which there are several distinct forms
here, varying in foliage, flowers and fruit. The
fruit is usually ripe at this time of the year, but it !
is still green now. Hellebores are consistent winter
bloomers here, and, like other things this season,
are generally late in flowering, though the niger
varieties are earlier. Our earliest, of which many
dozens were used last month, is a greenish yellow
named H. odorus, lovely for table decorations,
and quick to follow it is H. atropurpureus, also of
value for the same purpose, but not quite so refined.
Then the winter-flowering Honeysuckles are a great
stand-by, but it is essential that strong and long
shoots be encouraged, the short twigs being far
inferior as decorative objects. A not infrequent
late winter flowerer is Piptanthus nepalensis, the
young shoots of which and the foliage are equally
striking. The early-flowering Prunus Davidii and
its white variety may also be mentioned, and
Rhododendron dahuricum, which always begins
to flower in Januar\-. Of berried plants, besides
the Crataegus Pyracantha mentioned (page 639),
there are a few good things in Cotoneaster (the
small tree), C. frigida, C. Simonsii (a very gay and
easy-to-grow plant) and the less showT,' C. micro-
phylla. Pemettyas, where they succeed, are also
invaluable. One of the prettiest shrubs of the
present season was a yellow-berried Yew, and it
was rather extraordinary that while missel-thrushes
and other frugivora? fed on the common red, they
abstained from the yellow. Daphne Mezereum,
with its wealth of sweet-scented purple flowers in
January, is an object of much beauty. — R. P.
Brotherston, Tynin^hame, Preslonkirk, N.B.

GARDENING ACROSTICS.

A S annotmced in our issue for December 14.
/% 1913, we are publishing a series of eight

/ % acrostics based on gardening or simple
/ % botany. Prizes of ^3, £2 and /i,
' ^ respectively, will be awarded to those

seiuling in correct solutions of ail the
acrostics. The names of those who have correctly
solved the problems will be published from week
to week, and the final list of prize-winners in our
issue of I'"ebruary 15. In all cases the Editor's
decision nmst be final. The solution to .Acrostic
No. 5, which appeared last week, will be published
next week, and the solution to No. 6, which is
printed below, will be published in our issue dated
I'obruary i. For full rules governing the compe-
tition readers .a.re referred to page 623 of our issue
for December i.\. 1012,

DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. 6.

Morphologically oidy a leaf ; now changed m
?hape and function.

-My firsts are the top of my whole, and my finals
are my whole standing on its head.

1. A process in plants similar to digestion in
animals.

2. I scintillate when I get niv South .African
sunshine.

3. Where was Pope's celebrated vill;; ?

4. A sunk fence.

5. What is the best way of dealing with a Kirke
Plum with a dense blue bloom upon it ?

6. .-Xn old rival of the Tulip, which, like it, came
westwards vid Constantinople.

Sohiliniis 0/ the above must be sent so as to reach
the Tiditor at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden,
London, W.C., nut later than January 25. Mark the
envelope " Acrostic " on the upper left-hand'corner.

OF

FORTHCOMING EVENT.

January 21. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Meeting and Exhibition.

* I.

P

AL

M

t 2.

H

ORTILAX

I

t ^■

I

DEA

L

§ 4.

L

OBE

I.

!1 5.

I

NVOLLCR

E

If 6.

P

A PAVE

R

SOLUTION AND NOTES
ACROSTIC No. 4.

■■PHILIP MILLER."

Foreigners of his day gave Philip Miller the title
of " Hortulanorum Princeps" (" Johnson's English
Gardening," page 193.)

* I. P

t 2. H

t 3- I

§ 4. L

!1 5. I

116. P
* Like " Fern," this word is often loosely used,
t " O Radix Jesse " was the anthem sung by the
Hortulanus at certain great feasts in Monastic
times. It was one of the seven " Roman or
Gregorian Great O's." The first is still marked in
the Church of England calendar on December 16
(page r5 in .\mherst's '■ A History of Gardening in
England," second edition). | Ide?l. Glenny, in his
" Properties of Flowers," always pictured an ideal
flower which florists were to work for. § Lobel, or,
more correctly, I'Obel, was botanist to James I.,
and keeper of Lord Zouche's garden at Hackney.
Famous for his system of classification. (Arber's
" Herbals," pages 78 and 79.) !| In botany the
green bracts surrounding a composite flower are
called an involucre. If Papaver — Barley, Wheat
and Poppies formed the garland of Ceres. As
opium, much used medicinally.

a much easier acrostic, and we wish to inform
readers that m the event of no one solving .all the
acrostics, the prizes will be awarded to those
who solve the greatest number.

*t* The names of those who have cnrrctly solved
No. 4 will be given ne.tl week.

PRIZES FOR THE BEST
ROCK GARDENS.

SOLVERS OF ACROSTIC No. 3.

Correct solutions of Acrostic No. 4 were sent in
bv the following : " Leander," " Ping," " Judith "
and •' Penwame," This week we are publishmg

To further stimulate the interest that is bemg taken
in rock gardens, the Proprietors of The Garden
offer the following prizes for three photographs of
a rock garden, or portions ..f a rock garden :

First prize : Five Guineas, or a Silver Cup of
that value.

Second prize : Two Guineas, or Books ot that
value.

Third prize : One Guinea.

The competition is open only to the actual
owner of the rock garden, or to his or her gardener.
The object is to encourage good rock gardening,
and preference will, therefore, be given to those
rock gardens which show originality in design, and
where the plants depicted are well grown. It
should be distinctly understood that awards will
be made to the best rock gardens, and not neces-
sarily to the best photographs. The photographs
need not be taken by the competitor, who must,
however, in such cases have the written consent
of the photographer for their reproduction in The
Garden. For rules governing this competition
see issues for January 4 and 11.

COLOURED PLATE.

PLiATB 1463

SOME NEW CENTAUREAS.

Dl'RING recent years visitors to the
principal horticultural shows in
I .arious parts of the country have
had an opportimity of seeing the
new forms of Centaurca, some of
which are shown in the accompany-
ing coloured plate. It is to Messrs. Jarman and
Co, of Chard, Somerset, that we are indebted for
these charming varieties. For many years past
they have been working with and improving these
flowers, which, owing to their long stems and
graceful poise, are admirably adapted for use in
\'ases and epergnes when cut. In this condition
they last good for a long time, which is an additional
point in their favour. The colour shades found
among them are very delicate indeed, and, un-
fortunately, owing to difficulties in reproduction,
these arc none too well shown in the coloured
plate. The cultivation of these Centaureas, or Sweet
Sultans as some delight to call them, is quite
simple. They are annual plants, and consequently
the seed may be sown in the open garden where
the plants are intended to grow and bloom. An open
situation and well drained, rather light soil seem
to suit them best. The seed should be sown thinly
during -April, and as soon as the seedlings appear
steps should be taken to protect them from slugs,
which are very fond of them. The dusting of soot
or lime between, but net on, the seedlings is a good
deterrent. At an early stage of their career
the seedlings should be thinned to i foot apart,
and .IS soon as they are tall enough to reqtiirc it,
support in the form of light, branching sticks.
well thrust into the ground, should be aflorded.

32

THE GARDEN.

[January i8, IQ13.

iKi

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

FORCING SEAKALE.

TO force Seakale successfully, good,
strong, well-ripened crowns are indis-
pensable, and this has been a good
season for obtaining suitable crowns.
The best way is to grow a supply for
forcing from thongs or root-cuttings
every year, getting them rooted in the winter and
planted out on a well-prepared plot of ground as
early as possible, so that they have a long season
of uninterrupted growth.

As soon as the leaves wither and can come off
easily, crowns may be potted up in gj-inch pots,
putting about seven or eight crowns in
evenly and filling up with soil firmly ;
then place on a stage or floor in a dark
room where the temperature is not less
than 60° to 65°. It is well to cover
over with an inverted pot. This not only
increases the darkness, but keeps a
moist atmosphere and wards of draughts
from the opening and shutting of doors.
A supply like this can be easily kept up
by putting in a number equal to the
demand about every ten days. 1 have
found, after many years of experience,
that a dark cellar or room underground,
with a pipe or pipes running around, is
the most suitable spot for forcing Sea-
kale, also such things as Chicory and
Dandelion, and likewise for starting
Mustard and Cress. Mushrooms do ex-
ceedingly well on the ground floor of such
structures. Of course, quicker and better
results are obtained later in the season,
say, this month. During November
the forcing will take four or five weeks,
but as each week rolls on the forcing
takes less time. The Kale should be cut
as soon as ready, that is when 6 inches
high. Nothing is gained by leaving it a
day after it is ready to cut. It should
be cut off with a heel, i.e., a slice of
the old crown ; this keeps it together and
fresh till conveyed to the kitchen tor use.
.\nother important factor is that Seakale
should be cooked as soon after it is cut
as possible, to bring out its best flavour
and crispness. By growing in pots much
work is saved, as on wet days a number
of pots can be tilled and stored, and a
handbarrow-load conveyed to the forcing-
chamber in a few minutes at any
time. W. A. Cook,

THE ROSE GARDEN.

SOME OF THE NEWER DECORATIVE
ROSES.

{Cotitntut'd front f?age 22.)

Comtesse Felicie Hoyos (Soupert et Notting,
igi2).— This is a good Rose. Colour, variable
salmon yellow, centre rosy copper. A good grower
and free-flowering. Said to be a very promising
variety and an improvement on that useful garden
Rose Prince de Bnlgarie, I have only one plant
of it, and should hesitate, therefore, to recommend
it ; but several growers mentinneri it to me as
likely to prove very useful.

m^f^y^W^ «'^«-„^.t

'U

^ <#

■*«"T< 1''*''

■«»;-

T^-

.Js?

POTATO WHITE CITY.

-Amonc. maincrop Potatoes of recent
introduction the variety known as POTATO
White City deservedly occupies a
high position. Introduced in 1909 by
Messrs. Sutton and Sons of Rending, it was not long
in finding its wa>' into many of the best gardens in
the country. Although last season was by no means
favourable for the cultivation of Potatoes, While
City behaved splendidly, and the illustration shows
a crop of 57jlb., or just over one bushel, from
31b. of sets. This may not be a particularly
heavv crop, but only ordin.ary cultivation was
adopted, and nothing whatever m the way of
extra manuring or layering of growths was done.
Practically all the tubers were large enough for use.
In quality White City leaves nothing to be desired,
the tubers when rooked being white and Rowery. H.

WHITE CITY, A GOOD MAINCROP
PLANTING THIS SPRING.

C. W. Cowan (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1912),
Hybrid Tea. — What little I have seen of this Rose
I liked very much. Ihe raisers call it an improve-
ment on Marquis Litta. Its colour is certainly
more lasting, and it produces its flowers much
more freelv, entitling it to be called a good garden
Rose, which is more than can be said for Marquis
l.itta. Its growth is vigorous, and the colour a good
cherry carmine of the shade one sees in that beau-
tiful Rose Souvenir dc Maria Zayas. Nearly, if not
quite, miMew-proof, and with .t delicious perfume.

Desdemona (Paul and Son, igii), Hybrid Tea. —
A tnic huge flower that opens freely, but not exactly

refined in shape. I see the raisers call it a bold
flower. It is that. Colour, deep pink. Its chief merit,
1 think, lies in its perfume, which is marked. 1 should
sav there was some Bourbon lilond in it^ veins.

Duchess of Sutherland (.Mpx. Dickson and

Sons, 191 2^ Hybrid Tea. — There are several points
about this Rose that attracted me when I saw it
at Newtownards. First of all, a quite noticeable
Sweet Briar perfume that is certainly unusual in
a Rose of this stamp and character ; then its colour,
although one must call it pink, had sometliing
out of the way about it that rendered the flower
very pleasing. The raisers, I see, describe it as
warm rose pink, with lemon shading on a white
base ; but that does not quite convey the colour
.IS I saw it, Howe\'rr. it \vould be
I'M.lish of me to attempt to correct such
p.ist-masters in the art f)f colour descrip-
tion as the compilers of IMessrs. Alex.
Dickson's catalogue ; but the Rose struck
me as being of a colour that has no
name, and with that bit of useful
information I must leave it. It is a tall
grower ; the flowers are of good size and
shape, and produced on good, stiff foot-
stalks. .Altogether a welcome addition.
Duchess of Wellington (.\lex. Dick-
son and Sons, 1909), Hybrid Tea. — This
is one of our best bedding yellows, and
at its best a beautiful Rose, entitled to
be called a yellow Killarney, although,
as a rule, its flowers are hardly as large
as that variety. Very free- flowering, of
delightful fragrance, hardy, of good habit
of growth and almost mildew-proof, 1
call tiiorousjhly recommen.! this variety.

Duchess of Westminster (Alex.

Dickson and Sons, tqii). Hybrid Tea. —
I referred to tliis variety under " Exhibi-
tion R(jses," but it should also he men-'
tioned here. Its colour, perfume and
shape are all good. The petals are large,
but of rather unusual shape ; but there
is one point I must refer to. The buds
in their early stage sometimes look
misshapen, and one is tempted to pick
them off as not likely to produce good
flowers ; but they do, and seem to recover
iu a marvellous fashion. It is a change
to have a Rose that performs better than
it promises ; so many promise better
than they perform,

Southampton. \\. V.. Molv.nkun.

SOME LITTLE-KNOWN RED
HYBRID TEA ROSES.

One would think by the demand for
Liberty and Richmond that there were
but very few Roses of a red or scarlet
colour among the Hybrid Teas ; but
really, when one searches for them,
there are quite a number. Of course,
they do not preponderate like the cream, orange
and pink varieties ; but yet there are more than
at first sight appears. One lovely variety is named
Gruss an Sangerhausen, a Rose raised by that
eminent Germ an raiser Dr. MUller, to whom \ve
are indebted for Conrad I'. Meyer and the lovely
semi-double Gottfried Keller, and, I rather think,
Grliss an Teplitz also, although Lambert intro-
duced it. Sonte have foiuid Griiss an Sanger-
hausen only a moderate grower, but with me it
makes fine, vigorous shoots. Its colour is a fine
scarlet, with deep red centres. The flowers are
of good size, very shapely, but they droop. This

VARIETY FOR

January i8, 1913.]

THE GAliDEN.

33

is a fault in uiaiiv respects, and one not nientioneil
tiy siinir wiiicrs. 1 ni)tir.e that .Mr. Molyneux. in
speakiiiK ■>' Nita HVldon, ignores this very had
hahit in an ntherwisc lovely variety. Then (iriiss
an Saiiijerliauscn possesses delicious fragrance —
surely a quality too rare to be overlooked — and it
has also verv distuictive foliage.

Sarah Bernhardt, until this last summer, has
been little seen. If any reader has room for one
more Rose and does not possess Sarah Bernhardt,
he should procure it at once and grow it as a big
bush, looping up its somewhat willowy growths
to a 4-foot Bamboo cane. Last summer I cut one
of the most perfect blootns from this variety I
have ever had the pleasure of seeing. It was in
the early morning, before the sun had had time to
iTiake it burst open, and, my word, what a bloom
it was ! I ran see it now, and will never forget it.
There was that delightful point we love to see in
our favourite flower, and one wished most sinrorely
there were a few more petals to
make the bloom more durable, for
it is tittle more than a single. I have
grown it now some six years, as it was
sent out l-\' I)ni)rienl in the year if)ti6.

Friedrichsruh is a very dark
blood ri'd — really a grand eoUjur — but
the plant is a sprawling grower,
so much so that its blooms often
lie on the ground. I ike M. Pernet-
Ducher's exquisitely dark variety
Chateau de Clos Votigeot, it is
best seen grown as a standard,
and it is a colour that would be
welcome among a line of standards.

Hippolyte Burreau. — This is a
Rose that is best in autumn. .\t
that season of the year it is splendid
and well worthy of a place in any
garden. The colour is carmine red.
shaded veh-ety crimson. Very swectlv
scented.

Princess Bonnie is a semi-double,
vivid crinisun Ruse of most delicious
fragrance, obtained, I believe, from
the now almost e.\tinct W. )•'. Bennett.
It is of American origin, and one
that should not be allowed to drop
oiit of our lists. When shall we
have our National Rose Garden ? so
that many varieties could be secured
from the very hard-hearted nursery-
man, who finds he must delete a
hit of sorts every year from his
catalogue ; and if Fashion does not favour a Rose
it must go. Damcroft.

[To lit' continitt'tl.)

it is, perhaps, seen to the best advantage, although in sufficient lumibers, or the space available is not
it IS a very useful plant for filling out any odd extensive enough for them. Unless they are ex-
corner in the summer months. It should be ceptionally deep for their size, they have the dis-
mentioned that C. orientale is a near relative of advantage o! crr.mping the roots somewhat in the
the common Seakale, and it is quite as easily grown : stages shortly, prior to plantmg in the garden,
as that well-known vegetable. In the event of boxes being chosen, this last-named

disability need not arise, since those of good depth

SWFET PEA NOTES. -:an be selected- If they run from 6 inches to
O.m: occasionally sees it suggested, even if the : 9 inches deep, they will aflord abundance of spate
statement be nut made in as many words, that f*"' ">« roots ; but great care will be required to
all the most successful exhibitors of Sweet Peas keep so large a bulk of soil quite sweet until there
now sow the seeds in cold frames in the autumn are plenty of roots working in it. If boxes»are
months, and that it is only the second and third "sed, allow a dist.ance of 4 inches from seed to seed,
raters who continue the out-of-date system of Sowing. — There can be no doubt that the seed-
sowing in gentle heat in the spring ; while the man lings thrive best when the compost is made fairly
who sows out of doors in March is regarded as firm, and it is therefore admirable to fill the pots
nearly as extinct as the great auk. It is possible to within three-quarters of an inch of the edge,

that the people who think and say such things
as these find satisfaction, but they fail to convince
their 'fellows who gfi .ibtnit with their* eyes open.

make the soil firm, and then to press the seeds in
to the necessary depth — half an inch as a rule,
but the while and spotted seeds are best when just

AN ORNAMF.NTAI, KALE (CRAMBE ORIENTALE)

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

A BOLD HERBACEOUS PLANT.

(CrAMBE ORIIiNPALi:.)

IN large gardens where space is not a con-
sideration, this ornamental Kale is worthy
of a good position. It is notoriously a
strong-growing plant, requiring abundance
of room in order th.it its immense leaves
may be fully developed, Crambe orientale
is one of the largest-leaved herbaceous plants in
cidtivation, and when seen in full bloom, carrying , is a matter of individual convenience whether pots
myriads of its creamy white flowers, it makes an 1 or boxes shall be utilised. Small pots to accornrao-
imposing and showy effect. When grown in a ] date one seed in each are much to be preferred to
large circular br-d, as shown in the illustration, large pots, but thev .are commonlv not at disposal

As a matter of fact, many thousands of seeds are
sown indoors and out of doors in the spring months,
and in those instances where care and attention are
devoted to the plants, superb results are achieved.
Between the present date and the end of the month
is admirable for those with a gently-heated green-
house or frame ; but those who have only cold
structures will be wiser to defer sowing until well
on in February.

The Soil. — The ideal compost consists of three
parts of loam and one part of refuse manure,
with enough sharp sand or grit to keep it open,
and it must be pleasantly moist at the time of
sowing. It is advisable to surface each pot or
box with a depth of about half an inch of sand.

Pots or Boxes. — As receptacles for the seeds, it

level with the surface. Pressing in as suggested
ensures a firm base, and a little soil can readilv
be put over the seeds. JVIany growers make a rule
of chipping each seed either by cutting through the
skin with a knife or filing. It does no harm and
undoubtedly favours more rapid progress.

Treatment. — It is of the utmost importance
that the soil shall be kept equably moist, as
extremes of dryness or wetness inevitably cause
trouble. The light-coloured and spotted seeds should
usually be in a little drier soil than the brown
or black seeds. In frames, always, and commonly
also in greenhouses, it is desirable to cover each
pot or box with a piece of glass to exclude mite,
and, as it encourages germuiation, it is well to use
it in all instances. The best position after the
seedlings show through the surface is as close to
the roof glass of the structure .as the pots or boxes
will stand, the object, of course, being to indtice
the sturdiest, stockiest growth.

34

THE GARDEN.

[January i8, 1913.

LILIES: A CAUSERIE.

[Conlinued from page 24.)

Of the faithful few I give first place to L.
giganteura, to which its beauty and good manners
entitle it. We are old friends, for I grew my first
colony from a pod of seed given me by that most
generous instructor of my gardening youth, the
late Dr. Lowe of Wimbledon. I strongly advise
any who have the bump of patience at all developed
on their cranium to accept fresh seed of this Lily
wherftver offered. I have saved a small quantity
this season, and shall be. glad to send some to any
reader, as long as it lasts, who will send me an
addressed envelope. If sown before it is dried
up it will germinate the following spring, and the
seed-pan will apparently promise a crop of Onions.
Next season you might think a family of Erythro-
niums had taken their place, and the next that they
are Funkias, and from thenceforward the glossy

the smallest size offered and planting them well, so
that they may remain undisturbed for two or three
years before flowering ; then they will be sufficiently
strong to send up full-sized flower-stems, and also
should have given birth to an offset or two to take
their places after their inevitable demise. I have
known of large bulbs being successfully transplanted
the season before flowering and producing fine
stems, but only when they were transferred from a
neighbour's garden and treated en prince as to soil
and waterings ; but I have also known some
terribly misshapen dwarfs with a flower or two
at the height of two feet something and blind buds
to crown the stem, all the result of a migration
at the eleventh hour. As to a choice of site, shade
from the rising and midday sun is requirement
number one, and protection from the nort'i-east
wind in early spring number two. That means a
position to the west or north-west of tall shrubs
or trees, but -tar enough away from them to escape

PART OF A NEW ZEALAND ROCK GARDEN.

cordate leaves increase in beauty each season till,
ofter their fourth, there are few plants to match
them in the outdoor garden, Richardia a;thiopica,
the white Arum of common speech, being perhaps
their nearest counterpart in the greenhouse. If the
seedlings have been well cared for in a cold frame
for their first two years, they can be planted out
in their third spring. They soon make a beautiful
foliage group, and in six to eight years most of them
should be strong enough to throw up 10 feet of
flower-stem with twenty or more of their magnificent
trumpet-shaped flowers. I am very fond of
their fragrance, which always strikes me as being
of a similar type of scent to the Honeysuckles, with
that same suggestion of custard with grated nutmeg
on it. Of course, it is magnified Honeysuckle, as
befits such alarge flower, and carries to a wonderfully
great distance, which is one of its greatest charms,
for it is delightful to get whiffs of it on the summer
air. When buying bulbs, I strongly advise selecting

I have always followed this plan and found it
most successful, only adding to it by surrounding
the bulbs with sharp silver sand, a refinement
that is doubtless unnecessary in a sandy Surrev
garden. The bulbs should be only just below the
surface, but if they work their way out too much,
a good mulch of leaf-soil and well-rotted cow-manure
may be given as a covering. Watering with weak
manure-water will help the great flower-stem to
add to its stature if judiciously supplied.

The illustration on page 35 shows a specimen
of L. giganteum which flowered here this summer
after an adventurous and almost tragic youth.
When it was in its sixth year and beginning to
think of preparing for flowering. Fate overtook it
in the shape of my disreputable tame raven. She
generally lives in the tree tops and contents herself
with barking at passing rooks and simdry damages
to Fir cones and Beech sprays, only coming down
to be ted and to roost in her house. But in spring
Crown Imperials prove an irresistible
attraction to her — I suspect on account
of their dreadful scent, a mingled
essence of fox and F.xeter Station
(though many other large stations are
as ill-smelling nowadays from the gas
let loose from the trains). Then one
season she discovered that L. gigan-
teum, though it lacked the odour, was
just as amusing to slash up in its suc-
culent youth. Two or three seasons of
this mincing process reduced my gigan-
teum bulbs in a most interesting
though heart-breaking manner. The
bulbs dwindled to the size of throe
year olds, and only by wiring them
round in spring and by liberal feeding
have we saved their lives, and after
three seasons seen a flower-spike on
that group. It shows well what can
bo done in restoring to health a
moribund specimen. The satisfaction
of slashing a juicy Giant Lily is not
confined to ravens, however, for one
of our greatest living gardeners told
me a tale of mingled joy and woe that
always recurs to my mind when I see
a fine spike of this Lily. It happened
in his tender youth that his father,
the Director of one of the most beau-
tiful botanic gardens in Europe, was
regarding as the important garden
event of the year the flowering, for
the first time there, of a group of
THE PLANT.S SHOWN ARE NATIVES OF THAT COUNTRY. Giant Lilies. The spirit of Jack the

Giant Killer descended upon the
being overhung and the consequent drip, and also future knight, and, fashioning a lath sword, he
being robbed of their due ot soil fatness by hungry, ' fought a fierce and sappy battle with the Giants,
thieving roots. The soil should be well drained, ending in complete victory to the boy and utter

and enriched that the strong roots may go far afield
and find juicy food throughout the growing season.

Miss Jekyll has so well described her method of
planting the Giant Lily at page 97 of " Home and
Garden" that I cannot do better than quote it:
" Here . . . their beds are deeply excavated,
and filled to within a foot of the top with any
of the vegetable rubbish of which only too much
accumulates in the late autumn. Holes 12 feet
across and 3 feet deep are convenient graves for
frozen Dahlia-tops and half-hardy annuals ; a
quantity of such material chopped up and tramped
down close forms a cool subsoil that will comfort
the Lily bulbs for many a year. The upper foot
of soil is of good compost, and when the young
bulbs are planted, the whole is covered with some
inches of dead leaves."

ruin to the vegetable enemy. He still remembers
with equal vividness the wild joy of overcoming
the succulent resistance of the Lily stems and the
painful interview with his father that formed the
sequel to the Battle of the Giants.

Even now, in late December, at the moment
of writing, there is great beauty in the tall bare
stems and seed-pods standing sentinel among
Asarums and dwarf evergreens, and while still
clad with the glistening leaves, gradually diminishing
in size as they ascend the stem, and crowned with
the vivid green seed-capsules, which stand erect
with a particularly striking effect of vigour and
stability, few plants give so noble an architectural
outline in the hardy flower border.

E. A. Bowles,
{Jo be continued,)

January i8, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

35

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

RANUNCULUS I.YALLI IN NEW
ZEALAND.

[AM sending you a photograph ot a portion oi
the rockery here devoted entirely to native
plants. In the foreground are several
varieties of Celmisias, on the left Ligusticum
brevistyle, and in the background Raniui-
culus Lyalli. I am surprised the latter
is not grown more in England, as, given a good
strong loam, good drainage and a fair amount of
water in summer and a heavy
mulching of spent hot-bed manure
in winter, I see no reason why it
should not do well. R. Matthewsii
(a very rare species) is one that
should do well, as I find it flowers
much quicker after collecting than
K. Lyalli ; in fact, one plant I got
two years ago flowered twice last
season — in early spring and again
ill autumn. I shall have a limited
amount of seed of R. Matthewsii,
also a quantity of seeds of alpines,
Veronicas and similar plants, which
I shall be glad to exchange with any
of your readers for seeds of alpines
horn the Northern Hemisphere.
William Willccx.
Queeitstown, Olago, New Zealand.

beneath it, but recedes slightly from it. This is
ni'cessary to enable moisture to reach the Voots.
If the plants are put in in this manner while the
I [iff is being built, it is astonishing how soon they
arc at home and how rapidly they grow.

On a clitlf made as recently as March, 1912,
which is about five feet high and projects ironi
a south-east corner of rockwork, I have at the
bottom plants of S. rocheliana lutea, and im-
mediately above these S. sancta speciosa and S.
PaulincE, higher up S. Ferdinandi-Coburgi, and on
top of the white stone S. Borisii. .'\bove this, on
the left, is S. fcardica. one of six plants of S. loniii-

SAXIERAGE CLIFFS IN
ROCK GARDENS.

Of the many methods of growing
Saxifrages, I have found none as
satisfactory as the " cliff " method.
When properly built the Saxifrages
nestle into it, soon filling its cracks
and chinks with their tight, silvery
cushions. Even the hottest sun
seems unable to scorch them or to
<lry up their roots, which run far
back behind the protecting ledges
of stone, and the heaviest rain fails
to rot their centres, as they are all
growing in vertical positions, and
the water cannot lie on them.

Such cliffs are not difficult to
make; any projecting "nose" of
tlie rockwork can be adapted, and
stones too small or ugly to be
worked into the general scheme of
the rockwork can now be utilised.
The stones, which must be built
into the face of the rock bank,
are placed on top of one another,
with a little light, gritty soil sand-
wiched in between. They should
not be too far apart. If you con-
sider the stones as bricks, and the
layer of soil as the mortar
between them, you cannot go far wrong.
Having built in your first stratum of stones and
covered their tops lightly with the soil, next select
your Saxifrages — two or three plants of a kind, if
possible — knock them out of their pots, shake a
little of the soil from their roots, slightly flatten
the latter with the palms of your hands, and then
lay the plants on top of the stones in such a manner
that their foliage only just clears the edge ; then
sprinkle a little more soil over the roots, place
another stone on top and press it down, taking care
that its lower edge does not overhang the stone

LILIUM GIGAXTEUM IN MR.

E. A.. BOWLES
CROSS.

GARDEN AT WALTHAM

folia, and, just peeping o\'er the top, S. dalmatica.
On the right from the bottom are S. longifolia and
S. Obristii, above S. thessalica, and near the top
S. tombeana and S. Aizoon minima. All are the
picture of health and growing vigorously, and I
strongly recommend this method to all who grow
Saxifrages. On a similar clifl a few yards away,
built two years ago, the plants here completely
covered its face, and are crowding each other to
such an extent that I shall have to harden my heart
before next growing season and thin them out.
Knapton, Abbeyleix. Murr.w Hornibrook.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

THE BEST PLUMS AND THEIR
CULTIVATION.

WTHILE the exact identification of
r the " forbidden fruit " remains
a matter of speculation, I have
no hesitation in designating the
Plum the " unappreciated fruit."
The extended culture of the
commoner varieties for " market " purposes has
perhaps to answer for the lack of appreciation
of this most delicious fruit ; but I

also venture to think that a lack

of care in gathering at the right
season and storing for a short
interval are likewise partly respon-
sible for its neglect.

The Plum has long been
reproached with un fruit fulness ; but
we are now able, thanks to recent
research at the John Innes Horti-
cultural Institution, to remedy one
frequent cause of this first of
deadly sins. I allude to the fact
that Plums are generally self-sterile ;
that is, pollen must be brought
from another variety to ensure the
perfect setting of their fruit. This
is a valuable piece of information
to gardeners — and nurserymen.

.Another cause of infertility is
the destruction of blossoms by
spring frosts. Considering the ease
with which this may be combated,
l>\- throwing over the tree a piece
of netting, I wonder it is not more
practised on dwarf trees. Most
gardeners, however, allow a certain
wall space to the choicest varieties,
where protection is easier still. It
is a common complaint that the
Plum in its earlier stages makes
too much growth. This should be
remedied by the culture of pyramids
and bushts, when occasional trans-
planting lor the first ten years will
ensure an abundance of fruiting
spurs. It must also be remembered
that this fruit is a lime-loving
plant, and needs a good supply
always at hand, or should I say at
the root ?

Plum orchards may be seen thriv-
ing on the Southern chalk downs
with the thinnest of surface soils.
Of varieties there is a wide choice,
and I will mention but a few of
the best. First of all comes
OuUin's Golden Gage, a large
yellow fruit, excellent for dessert,
and for bottling one of the
very best. .August brings the Early Transparent
Gage, small, but certainly highly flavoured.
September is the Plum month, and many are at
the disposal of the gardener. The Green Gage,
Transparent Gage and Jefferson are all sorts that
no self-respecting gardener can dispense with,
while for the kitchen, and also for the boys home
from school, Victoria, the ever-cropping, and
Belle de Louvain are desirable. Late varieties
are found in Golden Transparent and Coe's Golden
Drop. It is not generally known that the latter
ran be kept for a long period in the fruit-room.

36

THE GAKDEN.

[January i8, 1913.

For late cooking puipoies MoiKircli .ind llic newer
President arc most valuable.

Those whose gardens are in sheltered spots, and
where spring frosts are not troublesome, should
grow a tree or two of the Myrobalan, of which
there are two varieties — yellow and red. The tree
flowers very early and is decorative, so that even
if it fails to crop, it justifies to some extent its
existence. The fruits when bottled are excellent,
but must not be gathered too ripe, or they will
be mealy. This must not be confused with the
Mirabelle of the Continent, which is of the Gage
tribe and noted for its excellent jam-making
properties.

To those who have glass at their disposal,
pyramid trees in pots can be strongly recom-
mended. As decorative specimens when in
flower and fruit they are most
beautiful, and the fruit attains a
richness of flavour not often
equalled by outdoor trees. No
heat is necessary, and they will
be over in time to allow the
house to be used for Chrysan-
themums— a further point in their
favour. I-'. A. Bunvard.

cheap rate. There is a variety of this known as
superba, whose jiowers are deeper coloured than
those of the type, also a variety alba, in which
they arc pure white.

Another winter-flowering Heath that has come
prominently forward within the last decade or so
is E. melaiithera, which may be grown into larger
specimens than any of the others. The flowers
of this, which are borne in great profusion, are
small and of a distinct mauve colour, with blackish
anthers. The low-growing, white-flowered E.
caflra is also grown to a limited extent.

Of those that as a rule bloom somewhat later
than the preceding, but yet may well be included
with winter-flowering Heaths, are E. wilmoreana,
somewhat in the way of E. hyemalis, but of a more
rofpust, spreading habit ; and F. persoluta alba, with

THE GREENHOUSE

WINTER FLOWERING
GREENHOUSE HEATHS.

A T one time collections of

I\ greenhouse Heaths

/ % formed a prominent
^■"^^ feature of many gar-
^ * dens, but with the

decline in popularity
of hard-wooded plants in general,
many of the Heaths disappeared
from cultivation. A few kinds,
however, are still grown, and as
a rule in very large quantities, for
some of the nurserymen who make
a speciality of them gencralh'
devote the greater part of ttreir
energies to these greenhouse
Heaths and similar plants, such as
Boronias and F.pacrises. Delightful
little specimens of these may fre-
quently be seen in the Horists'
shops, especially during the
autunm, winter and early spring
months, the summer - flowering
kinds being, naturally, not so
much in demand, though of them
the attractive Erica ventricosa is still grown.
After the summer is over, the Heath season may
be said to begin with E. gracilis, a dense, twiggy
little bush, whose tiny rosy purple flowers are
borne in great profusion. Several varieties of this
Heath are in cultivation, namely, rosea, in which
the purple tinge of the flower is almost wanting,
it being of a pleasing rosy shade ; and vernalis,
of more sturdy growth than gracihs itself, and
much later in flowering. There are two white or
pale flowered kinds, namely, alba, the oldest,
in which the blossoms often have a pinkish tinge.
They are decidedly less pure than those of nivalis,
which is now extensively grown.

After E. gracilis comes E. hyemalis, a great
favourite, and always in considerable demand
about Christmas-time, when model little plants
in 5-ini:h pots can be purchased at a comp.aratively

best covered wilh a bell-glass, so that the size of
the pots or pans will depend upon that of the bell-
glasses available. Whether pots or pans, they
must be filled to within an inch of the rim with
broken crocks, coarse at the bottom and very fine
on the top. The soil should consist of peat and
sand passed thrjugh a sieve with one-eighth of
an inch mesh, and made very firm and smooth.
In inserting the cuttings, each one must be made
quite firm, and though space should not be wasted,
overcrowding must be avoided. A length of about
an inch is a suitable one for the cuttings, in pre-
paring which a very sharp knife is essential. When
a pot is filled, it should be watered through a ver\-
fine rose, allowed to drain, and then be placed in a
snug part of a warm greenhouse, taking care that
the cuttings are shaded from all direct sunshine.
When rooted they must be potted
off, the subsequent treatment being
a matter of detail. It must, how-
ever, be borne in mind that it
takes nearly three years to obtain
a good plant, and this circum-
stance renders the cheap price al
which flowering examples are sold
very surprising.

Where it is intended to keep the
old plants after flowering and grow
them on .another season, they
should, when the blossoms are
past, be cut back hard, and as
soon as the young shoots make
their appearance the plants must
be repotted, giving them in most
cases a pat one size larger than
before. The sol! should be peat
and sand, pressed down very firmly,
.and especial care must be taken
when repotting that the ball of
earth is not dry, otherwise it will
be almost impossible to moisten it
in a satisfactorv manner. H. P.

A WHITK-I-LOWERF.D HEATH F.RICA GRACILIS ALBA

a profusion of tiny white bells, gracefully disposed.
Within the last few years miniature plants of
some of these Heaths, particularly E. gracilis,
I{. caffra and E. persoluta alba, have made their
appearance in the florists' shops and met with a
ready sale. The smallest of these are struck in
the spring and .allowed to go on and flower without
stopping.

Cultivation. — All the different winter-flowering
kinds alluded to belong to what are termed
soft-wooded Heaths, from the fact that they are
re.adily propagated by cuttings of the soft-growing
shoots ; whereas many of those that used to be grown
as large specimens could only be increased by
cuttings of a firmer nature. These soft-wooded
cuttings are, as might be supposed, very delicate
subjects to handle ; hence everything shmild be
prepared before they are taken in hand. They are

A SEASONABLE NOTE
ON AURICULAS.

So far the plants have been kept
strictly on the dry side, but soon
the days will begin to lengthen
and the Auriculas will show signs
of renewed activity. Towards the
end of the month the collection
ought to be looked over, all
decayed leaves removed and the
soil slightly stirred with a pointed
stick. There is no need to take
away an inch or so of soil and re-
place with a rich compost, as was
the case in the old days. All offsets may be taken
oft', whether they are rooted or not, and those with
roots can be potted singly in 3-iiicli pots. Any
without roots should be placed around the edge
of a pot, where they will soon become established,
when they can be treated as larger examples.
If the weather keeps open and mild, more water
ought to be given ; but even at this period they
must not be kept too wet, or the roots will decay
and the quality of the blooms suffer later on.
Plenty of air must be allowed at all times ; but
now that growth has recommenced and the spikes
beginning to appear, it will be advisable to cover
the frames with .Archangel mats should frosts make
their appearance. The weather has been so mild
up to the present that, unless they receive a check,
the ,'\uricul:is will probably flower earlier than
usual. ^-

Januakv i8, 1013.]

THE GAllDEN,

37

HOW TO

REPAIR
TREES.

HOLLOW

THIS is a subjert worth more ;ittciithiM
frnm the owners or tho-;t* who have
'lie rare of trees. It is a matter for the
small sardeii with a few trees as well
as for the pleasure grounds and parks
where the trees may be counted by
liiiiidn-ds. The causes or origin of wounds "r decay
in trees are varied. Branches broken off by wind
usually leave a stump, or it may splintrr off a piece
of the larger lijnb to which it was attached. In both
< uses dccav will almost inevitablv folhjw, unless
means are adopted to check it. Snags or stumps
should be sawn oft close to the remaining branch
or to the trunk. .After sawing, the rough surface
ca;ised by the triih of the saw should be gone over
and pared with a sharp knife, to provide a better
surface for the tar. A\[ wounds made on trees,
whether through accident or the removal i:i
hrimches in the training, pruning, or balancing
ol a tree, should be coated with ordinary coal-tar.
Historical Trees. — The life of famous old trees
.tud grand specimens is sometimes considerably
shortened by disease, which, if checked or even
cured, would have consideraMv prolonged their
existence. Before filling up a hole or cavity in a
tree, the hollow must be thoroughly cleaned out.
Damp, rotten wood attacked by fungus, or soft,
crumbling wood must be first cleaned out, removing
it with a chisel or small axe till only dry, hard
wood remains. One or two dressings of carbolic
acid .solution should then be applied to destroy, if
possible, all traces of disease. In a day or two a

I. A WUL.NU l.S A CHtsi.SUi iKbt CAL.■^L:D BY

THE REMOVAL OF A BRANCH.

decide the method o( tilling it. Small holes may be
filled with a mixture of cement and sand, or, if

coating of tar shoidd be applied and allowed to | round and a fair depth, an Oak peg coaled with tar
dry. The nature and extent of the hollow will ! mav be driven in and cut off flush with the trunk.

THE TRUNK OF A SILVER BIRCH TREE BEFORE AND AFTER REPAIR.

2. IHE HOLLOW FILLED WITH A MI.XTURE OF

CEMENT AND SAND.

Bricks and mortar, together with concrete, are the
best materials for filling up large hollows. It is
sometimes necessary to build up a face with bricks,
and fill in behind with concrete as the work proceeds.
One tree — a Beech — with which we had to deal
was hollow on one side, from the ground to a height
of 21 feet. In this tree eighty-four courses of
bricks were built up — some three hundred bricks
in all — with concrete behind and a facing of cement
r>ver the bricks. Another tree — a Walnut — took
nearly a ton of concrete, but in this case the shell
of the tree held it together without the aid of
many bricks. Before attempting the work of
filling up large holes, make sure that the tree is •
net dangerously weakened through decay.

Those readers who have not had much to do
with trees will probably say, " Why let tlie
hollows get so big before filling them up ? " In
some cases the large holes are, of course, due to
neglect in the earlier stages, but the decay goes
on in some instances unnoticed within the tree.

The wound in the Chestnut illustrated was caused
through the removal of a large branch, and before
the wound could heal right over, decay started in
the centre. The new bark is plainly visible growing
on either side of the hollow, and in time it should
grow over the cement and meet. Tor this reason
it will be observed the filling-up material has only
been brought level with the new bark, and not
flush with the trunk. For important work of this
kind the gardener will often find It necessary to
call in the aid of a bricklayer. With a little practice
the varying colours of the wood can be obtained
bv lamp-black, soot, or a little dry cement being
sprinkled on when wet. The markings of the
trunk can also be imitated by a skilled workman.
It is necessary to watch the wounds and
"stopping" occasionally, tarring over the former
every two or three years till quite healed over.

The carbolic acid solution is prepared by mixing
a quarter of a pound of carbolic acid and one
gallon of methylated spirit.

38

THE GARDEN.

[January i8, IQ13.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Propagating Bedding Plants. — Where only
biuall stocks of such pUints as Coleus, Iresme,
Lobelia, Mesembryanthemum. &c., are wmtered, the
work of propagation should be commenced at once.
The cuttings root quite freely at this date, and, once
rooted, tire work of hardening them off is much
more easy than later, when strong sunshine has a
tendency' to make them flag for a considerable
time, unless, of course, the syringe is kept going
prettv freely over them.

Zonal Pelargoniums that may have been rooted
singly in small pots or in boxes in the autumn
should now be potted oft as time and available
space permit, using the size pot that may be most
suitable for their proper development, remembering
that a plant starved in a small pot takes a longer time
to get over the shift when removed to its summer
quarters than one in the full vigour of growth,
the loss of foliage in the former case proving an
eyesore for a considerable time.

Plants Under Glass.
Malmaison Carnations. — if not already done,

autunm layers of these beautiful flowering plants
should be potted into their flowering pots at once,
which, by the way, should be of 6 inches. Good
friable loam, spent Mushroom manure, a little bone-
meal — a 4-inch potful to a wheelbarrowful of soil —
a good sprinkling of wood-ashes and lime rubble,
with sufficient coarse sand to keep the whole
porous, should suit them well, making them pretty
firm during the operation.

Arum Lilies. — These are now growing freely,
and if a good crop of large blooms is required,
plenty of water and manure must be given them,
and a dressing of some artificial manure might be
given at least once every fourteen days. These
plants, being somewhat subject to green fly, should
be fumigated occasionally. This is sometimes
thought expensive, but in the long run it is much
cheaper than sponging.

Lachenalias. — If a batch of these is required
in bloom fairly early, they may be placed in a house
with a night" temperature of 50° to 55°, but not
warmer. Those still in cold frames should be
removed to the shelf or stage of a light, airy and
cool house, where the foliage will get much more
robust, and with the aid of a little liquid manure
the flower-spikes should come strong and of good
colour.

Chrysanthemums. — Cuttings propagated during
late November and December under cool conditions
should be making roots nicely, and when found
to be doing so should be removed to a frame or
house where the conditions are less close, and where
air can be admitted in increasing quantities as
the young plants attain hardiness. To prevent
flagging during bright weather, the plants should
be very lightly sprayed overhead. A further
batch of cuttings for large blooms may be put in,
selecting those varieties that from earlier propa-
gation produce flowers a little too early for Novem-
ber blooming. These include such varieties as
Master James, Mrs. A. T. Miller, Frances Jolliffe,
White Queen, Mrs. L. Thorn, Mrs. R. Luxford,
Evangeline, Marie Loonies, Kara Dow, Japan
and Miss Gladys Herbert.

The Kitchen Garden.

Asparagus. — Where a regular supply of this
has to be kept up weekly or bi-weekly, batches
should be placed in the forcing pit or house,
covering the crowns over with 3 inches or 4 inches
of leaf-mould or light, sandy soil. A bottom
temperature of about 60° to 65° should be main-
tained either by hot-water pipes or by well-prepared
hot-bed material, which will sustain a good quick
growth.

Seakale. — A good supply of this should also
l>e kept up, varying the amount according to
requirements. Where a Mushroom-house or other
specially-constructed place is not to hand for the
forcing of Seakale, and Rhubarb, the supply
may be kept up by placing from six to nine roots
in 12-inch pots, inverting another pot over the top
i>{ each. These roots, if placed under a stage in a
warm house, will soon be fit for use. The whole
batch of forcing Seakale should now be lifted
(if not already done) and thinned.

Fruits Under Glass.
Pruning Peaches in Successional and Late

Houses. — presuming the trees have been gone
over after fruiting, the pruning should not be a
serious matter ; but before cutting them free of
the wires they should be gone over carefully,
taking out all wood that is not absolutely necessary
for the proper furnishing of the tree, discrimi-
nating, of course, in favour of the younger wood,
unless this be of too luxurious a growth. Peaches
and Nectarines are often left too thickly. From
4 inches to 6 inches is quite close enough for the
wood, for it has to be borne in mind that when
growth commences there is bound to be two shoots
for one at least, and these covered with foliage.

Orchard-House Trees of Apples, Pears, Plums,
Apricots and Cherries should still be kept quite
cool unless they are wanted very early, as undue
hastening of the flowering period is apt to result
in weak flowers and a poor set of fruit.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Pruning. — Continue the pruning of hardy fruit
as time .and weather permit, going from tlie wall
trees when they are finished to the more exposed
trained trees growing round the paths in the garden.

Pears. — On our cold soil I find there are certain
varieties of Pears that will not stand really hard
or close pruning, owing to the shoots dying back
when pruned, and these include such varieties as
Beurred'Amanlis, Olivier desSerres, BeurreSuperfin,
Easter Beurre, Josephine de Malines, Winter Nelis,
Beurre Alexandre Lucas and Louise Bonne of
Jersey, so when pruning these, either during
summer or winter, I leave the growths about two
inches longer than those of the ordinary varieties.

Apples. — Certain varieties of Apples are also
much more shy when grown as trained trees than
as standards, and such varieties often carry a
crop of fruit-buds that are at the apex of small
shoots, say, from 6 inches to 8 inches in length,
such shoots often springing from beneath the fruit.
If these shoots are left, they will often give a crop
of fruit when there are no short fruit-buds formed
at the base of the spur, and varieties I have noted
cropping in this way are Gascoyne's Scarlet,
Cornish Gilliflower, Golden Pippin, Irish Peach,
Old Nonpareil, Mr. Gladstone, Gloria Mundi,
Hollandbury and Kentish Fillbasket.

Thomas Stevenson.

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestonc, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Sowing Sweet Peas. — This should not be much
longer delaved. Equallv good results may be
obtained either by sowing m pots or boxes, the
latter method being more convenient. Sow in
rows about three inches apart, and an inch apart
in the rows. W'ell-ripened seed from a healthy,
well-grown stock is the best guarantee for satis-
factory germination. Mice must be guarded against,
either by coating the seeds with red lead, by cover-
ing the bo.xes with sheets of glass, or by laying
poison near. The last-named precaution will be
necessary after germination takes place in any case.
Place the pots or boxes in a frame or cold pit.

Bedding Plants. — Stock should now be placed
in heat to supply cuttings later on. Geraniums
should have their growing points pinched to induce
a stubby growth prior to potting or boxing off.

Dahlias should have their tubers shortened and
the dead parts cut away, then be placed in heat
in order to furnish cuttings. Spray them daily after
the first week to induce them to break vigorously.

The Rock Garden.

Additions. — Any constructive work should be
pushed forward, "so that the work of planting
(best done m autumn) may be proceeded with as
early in spring as possible.

Protection. — Treasures such as Daphne blagay-
ana are well worth the trouble of placing a bell-
glass over them to keep them clean. The glass
should be set on two bricks to admit abundance of
air. The finer varieties of the Lenten Rose, too,
will be benefited by the protection of a hand-light.
Mice are fond of the flower-buds of the lighter-
coloured varieties, and should be trapped or
poisoned.

The Shrubbery.

Lilacs. — These often throw up a lot of suckers,
which, if left alone, draw up weaklv, doing no good
to themselves and robbing the main stem of nutri-
ment. If the plant is grafted, the suckers should
be removed and burnt. If, however, it is a desirable
variety on its own roots, some of the strongest
suckers may be pl.anted in the reserve garden for
subsequent planting.

Plants Under Glass.
Winter-Flowering Begonias.— As these go out

of bloom they should be headed back to induce
them to make cuttings. .\ slight spraviiig dailv
will assist m the process,

Perpetual-Flowering Carnations.— The propa-
gation of these plants must now be proceeded
with, and this is the time for th'ise who have not
yet attempted their culture to make a start.

The Cuttings should be taken off with a heel
and inserted round the edge of 3j-inch pots, six
to a pot. \ compost of loam, leaf-mould and
sand is suitable for the purpose. Place the pots
in a propagating-case where a night temperature
of 60° is being maintained, and the cuttings will be
rooted in about three weeks.

Gloxinias. — If seedlings are expected to flower
in the autumn, a sowing should now be made.
Use a well-drained pot or seed-pan, and fill it with
a mixture of loam, peat, leaf-mould and sand.
Make the surface quite smooth, and water with a
fine rose. After two hours the seed may be sown,
and, being very fine, it should first be mixed with
some sand to secure equality of dispersion. Do
not cover with soil, but place a pane of glass over
the pot or pan and inure to air as germination
takes place.

Fruits Under Glass.

Melons. — if not already done, a sowing should
now be made if ripe fruit is expected by the begin-
ning of June. One seed to a pot is good practice ;
but if room is scarce, 1 find that a batch can be sown
in a pot or pan and duly potted off into 3j-:nch
pots, with equally good results. .'V bottom-heat
ranging from 75° to 80°, with 5° less of top-heat,
is necessarv to keep them going smartly, and this
is very necessarv with a naturallj^ succulent,
quick-growing plant like the Melon.

Orchard-House Fruits. — A start may now he
made with Pears, Plums, Cherries and any other
orchard-house fruits. Begin to force gradually ;
in fact, if the house is kept close, no fire-heat will
be necessary lor the first fortnight, provided the
weather is mUd.

Figs may be started with a night temperature
of about 50°, with a rise of 5° during the day in
dull weather and 5° to 10^ more with bright
sunshine.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Loganberries are acceptable to most families,
as they can be utilised in various ways — uncooked,
stewed, or as a jelly. Moreover, in soils such as
I have to deal with — a heavy clay — where Rasp-
berries do not succeed well, they form a welcome
substitute for, or addition to, that crop. Those
who purpose making a plantation should trench
the ground ,ind give it a liberal manuring prior
to planting, then little working of the soil will
be required for several years. By far the best
method of training is on a double trellis i foot
apart, training the fruiting canes up one side and
the succession ones the other, and transposing
them annually.

The Kitchen Garden.

Early Carrots. — Fermenting materials should
now be prepared for making up a slight hot-bed,
.and an earlv sowing of some of the stump-rooted
varieties, such as French Short Horn, should be made.

Early Turnips. — Preparations similar to those
directed for early Carrots should also be made for an
early sowing of this crop, where such is m demand.
Early Milan or its white variety is suitable lor this
purpose.

Onions.- If not already attended to, not a day
should be lost in getting in the seed of these. Sow
in boxes of fairly rich, finely-sifted soil, and place
in a vinery at work. Ailsa Craig and Cranston's
Excelsior arc the varieties to sow where big bulbs
are wanted.

Lettuce. — .\ small sowing should be made in a
house with a temperature ranging from 50" to
,t5°. Use a quick-hearting Cabbage variety.

Charles Comfort.
Broomfuld Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

January i8, 1-913.]

THE GARDEN.

39

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

AWARD OF MERIT.

Lindenbergia grandiflora. — Tliis inisht u«x
inaptiv be styleil the ■ Trii- Musk." so nearly d'l
the fldwers in size and roloiir and form approximate
to the popular plsiiit indicated. The example
shown was 2J feet high, and had been flowering
for some three months in sueccssion. It is by no
means a novelty, having been known to cultivation
for manv years, though, with many others,
apparently .almost lost. The plant has a bushy
habit of rather woolly leaves and stems, and almost
from base to sinnmit is furnished with a profusion
of yellow Musk-like flowers. .-Vs a winter-flowering
subject it is worthy of attention. From Messrs.
James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea.

NEW ORCHIDS.

There was n.> lack of novelties brought before
the Orchid committee of the Royal Horticultural
Society on January 7, when the foregoing award
and those following were granted. Only one
first-class certificate was awarded, and this went
to a remarkably tine form of Odontoglossura
Pescatora; named Sander.e, which was shown
by Baron Brimo Schroder. There were three
new Cypripedinras to gain awards of merit, viz.,
C. Amazon, from F. Menteith Ogilvie, Esq. ; C.
lona, from His ('itace the Duke of Marlborough ;
and C. .\lcinida, shown by .Messrs. Charlesworth
and Co. Other novelties to secure awards ol merit
were : I.iclia anceps roeblingiana, shown by C. J.
Roebling, Esq.. of New Jersey ; Odontonia
I'irminii, from M. Firmin Lambeau ; Habenaria
Kabelinii, shown by E. H. Davidson, Esq. ;
and Odontoglossum Ccorge Dav, from H. S
Goodson, Esq.

THE MISUSE OF MANURES.

DOUBTLESS the majority of the readers
. of this journal have heard the story
I of the old gardener who, on a
' visitor enquiring of him for the
head-gardener, took him to the
manure heap. I have never been
able to see anything cither humorous or
clever about this, as anyone who allows
manure to be master must have a very poor
idea of the profession. That manure is an indis-
pensable item in good gardening no one will deny,
but its indiscriminate use does far more harm than
many suppose. Instead of calling the manure
heap the head-gardener, I would terra it an excellent
assistant, if kept in its proper place. For instance,
the production of good Celery, Onions, Leeks,
Peas, Beans, Cauliflowers and Brussels Sprouts
depends to a considerable extent on the judicious
use of manure, while Beet, Carrots, Potatoes and
a few other vegetables will simply be ruined if
inanured on the same liberal scale. .It is in cases of
this kind where intelligent experience is a necessity.
There can be no doubt that a great amount of
manure is annually wasted through ignorance or
carelessness, rhis applies more especially to the
artificial compounds that are now in conunon use
all over the country, as, with the advent of the
motor-car, the amount of stable manure is now
considerably reduced in quantity. Naturally, the
amateur is the greatest sinner in this respect,
alth.^■lgh I am ashamed to say that many pro-
fessional gardeners, in their hurry to make things

grow, not infrequently use their artificials in too
strong doses, and thus over-reach themselves. It
never seems to strike these people that the vendors
of these compounds invariably advise the maximum
safe quantity to be used, or at least the proper
quantity, to give best results. If the directions
are faithfully followed, the great bulk of the manures
offered will give satisfactory results. I am no
chemist, so do not pretend to know much about
the various ingredients that go to make up the
different artificial fertilisers on ,the market, but
from a long and careftfl study of the wants of the
various plants I have been able to secure quite
good results in the majority of cases.

I have heard numerous discussions on the subject
of artificial manures, many holding that they are
excessively e.xpensive, and tltat one would save
considerably bv mixing their own manures. I do
not believe this to be practicable, as who is to
decide as to the ingredients, their proper propor-
tions and other points ? I for one have no time,
nor inclination, for carrying out a series of ex-
periments so as to decide the question, and will
continue, as I have done for twenty-five years, to rely
on one or two of the standard preparations on the
market.

In past years I have tested in a small way a great
number of the proprietary fertilisers, and found that
the majority had tli^ir good points, if strict atten-
tion were paid to the directions supplied by the
makers. I have always tried to be as exact as
possible, both with quantities and times of applica-
tion, and consider that in most cases the resu'ts
justified the expenditure. For pot plants, to my
mind, a good sound artificial manure gives far
better resiflts than the use of natur.al manures
ever do, and with about a quarter of the trouble.
While I have proved this, to my own satisfaction
at least. I am well aware that a careless use of these
chemical stimn.l.ints may easily result in disaster,
but the same may happen if the plants be dosed
with too strong liquid manure. On the other hand,
I have no great reliance to place on artificial manures
when used alone for flowers, fruits or vegetables
in the open garden.

Good farmyard manure used in moderation and
supplemented with a light dressing of a good
artificial will in every case give excellent results.
Over-manuring is not only wasteful of material,
but causes waste through the crops being coarse
and unfit for use, and not infrequently either kills
plants directly or, by forcing them into sappy
growth, causes them to succumb to frost or damp.
It would be easy to dilate further on the evils of
over-manuring, but enough has been said, I hope,
to cause the careless to take thought on the subject,
and so avoid this most undesirable mistake.

Preston House Gardens, Linlithgow. C. Blair.

THE"WOBURN" PLANTING
OF FRUIT TREES.

In an article contributed to Science Pro-
gress by Mr. Spencer Pickering, F.R.S.. the
Director of the Woburn Experimental Fruit Farm,
among other interesting matter the author gives
some account of experiments in tree planting, both
by the ordinary accepted methods and by his new
plan of " ramming." ■ .A.s he claims to get such
excellent results from his method, so much supwrior
to those following upon ordinary planting ; more-
over, as his method might without offence be
described as " careless," and as the success of

" careless " planting over that carried out with
much care may encourage growers to still more
slipshod methods than they adopt at present, it
may be as well to examine carefully what has been
accomplished and what is claimed for it.

The author starts the consideration of " ramming "
with the thesis : For the development of the
dormant root buds, as they may be termed, intimate
contact between the roots and the damp soil is
essential. No thoughtful planter will quarrel with
this, as the aim of every such person has been to
tread the soil as solidly as possible when the roots
have been covered. He goes on to say, however,
that ■' much more intimate contact between the
roots and soil can be secured by ramming the soil
around the tree, as in fixing a gate-post, especially
if the soil be wet at the time " ; and, further on,
" Planting with ramming can be safely practised,
however wet the soil may be, and at a time when
planting in the ordinary-way would be out of the
question, ramming to the extent of puddling the
soil being no disadvantage." Here I think we
should, many of us, part company with the author,
in spite of the experiments he has carried through
and which seem to point this way. In the first
place, it is quite possible that ramming a light sand
when wet might not permanently harm it, but if
such treatment were applied to a heavy clay, on
the approach of spring with its drying winds, all
the soil which had been treated to this ■' puddling "
would dry like bricks, and one can scarcely conceive,
of fruit trees thriving under such conditions.

Another point is the absolute impossibility of any
aeration going on in soils which can be described
as " puddled," a condition which, one would think,
could not be anything but harmful, in view of the
late discoveries concerning bacteria and their
requirements.

Can it be possible that unconsciously Mr. Picker-
ing and his assistants who carried out the experi-
ments have treated the trees planted by the ordinary
methods too gingerly, and that they have not really
been planted solidly enough ?

Next we come to the question of the treatment
of the roots, and here again the author departs
from accepted practice a good deal. He says :
" Whether the end of a broken root be trimmed
or not appe.ars to make no difference to the welfare
of the tree," and he bases his argument upon the
fact that " only 15 per cent, of the new roots of
trees were formed within a quarter of an inch from
the old root ends " ; but surely this does not affect
the matter. We do not cut away a jagged end of
a root primarily with a view to root formation,
but in order that the tree may quickly heal and
protect the wound, a result more and more necessary
in these days when animal and vegetal pests inhabit
the soil and prey upon the roots as well as the
branches. It seems to me that one might as well
say that a broken branch need not be cut back
because shoots did not arise from a certain distance
from the fracture. Another passage runs : " Short-
ening of the roots up to one-third of their length
i.but not more) has been found to be of slight advan-
tage rather than the contrary." It is dilficult to
see exactly to what this refers, but one must suppose
it is the length of the root as lifted with great care —
that is, the maximum length of root it is possible
to get out — that is meant. If the roots of trees — as
they .u-e often, unfortunately — htted in commercial
places were submitted to this drastic shortening,
there would be but very little root left. I fancy
that quite as drastic a shortening of the roots is
done on a market place as an ordinary matter of
course — that is to say, the roots as planted

40

THE GARDEN.

[January iS, 1913.

arejbut little longer than Mr. Pickering's, though
the actual cutting back is not so severe, and that
anything further in this direction would be unwise.
In the same way, I think that a proper planter
with his gang on a market-grower's place makes
his trees quite as solid by his treading as the author
does by his ramming, and so achieves much the
same results. The personal element enters so largely
into this sort of thing, where there is no means of
actually checking all the conditions, in this case
the density of the soil arrived at by the different
methods of " treading " and " ramming." I ven-
ture, with all diffidence, to suggest that these are
some of the reasons for the rather starthng set of re-
sults Mr. Pickering claims for his experiments. X.

PLANTS FLOWERING OUT
OF SEASON.

ALTHOUGH the calendar declares the date
to be the early half of January, the birds
and flowers of this garden insist that
i it is at least the latter half of February.
■■ This is so unexpected to me after so
cool and damp a summer that it seems
worth recording and endeavouring to accoimt for
it. Last December was the warmest known
since iS6S. Dr. H. R. Mill, in a letter to The
Times of January 3, gives the mean temperature
of the past December as 498° and that of 1868
as 50-0°, one-fifth of a degree higher. But the
mean of the highest daily temperature of December,
1912, is 50-8°, whereas it was 50-7° for 1868, and
so stands higher for 1912 than has been yet
recorded.

That, of course, is a large factor in this unseemly
rush to be first in flower ; but I think we must
look still further back for other causes to accoimt
for the extreme earliness of some plants. For
instance, Eranthis hyemalis was in full flower
here in the third week of December, making the
ground green and yellow where the larger colonies
grow ; but the blossoms were thin and poor, as
they always are when early. Gerard knew this,
and expresses it thus in his pleasant Old English :
" Yea the colder the weather is, and the deeper
that the snow is, the fairer and larger is the floure,
and the warmer that the weather is, the lesser is
the floure and worse coloured." I take it
that when delayed below ground and then rushing
up with the thaw, the flowers are better matm-ed
and have lost that thin texture and greenish tint
which are also so characteristic of an over-forced
Dafiodil.

But more marked still in this garden, and I
hear almost everywhere else, is the early flowering
of the Lenten Hellebores, H. orientalis and kindred
kinds. By mid-December they were in full bloom
here, and taller and handsomer than they usually
are even as late as early March. They had not
rushed out, but had come along quietly and steadily
for months. There were sharp frosts in early
November. Here we registered 11° or 12° on
several nights, and when this spell of warmth
followed, the plants seem to have been persuaded
the winter had come and gone, and grew m a
rapid manner, somewhat akin to plants that have
been retarded in cold storage or etherised. It
is well known that Rhubarb forces better after
being frozen, and entomologists who wish to force
pup* find that it is better to let most of them,
at any rate our truly Northern species, feel a touch
of cold before putting them into heat, or, instead

of being hurried into emergence, they may be
induced to lay over to another season.

I am, however, inclined to think that the greatest
amount of preparation for early flowering this
season must be attributed to the extraordinary
absence of rain in April and early May of last year,
which hurried up and stunted the Darwin Tulips
so markedly, robbing them of much of their beauty
in all but deeply-dug and cool soils. I noticed
how Crocus leaves ripened and disappeared quite
six weeks earlier tjian usual, and it was the same with
Snowdrops, and that, I feel sure, is the prime cause
of my having Galanthus byzantinus, Imperati
and several early seedling forms of nivalis well out
in bloom before Olgae was over. And the list of
Croci in flower in the open ground in Christmas
Week included C. Imperati, Sieberi, dalmaticus,
tommasinianus, ancyrensis, chrysanthus in about
a dozen varieties, Korolkowi, alatavicus, cyprius
and aureus. Now, in the second week of January,
most of the species that should be out in mid-
February are full of flower, but the dull, wet days
forbid their opening properly, and I feel I am being
cheated by the Clerk of the Weather of my proper
enjoyment of the Crocus season. Iris sophenensis
and histrioides were both in full flower Ijefore
Christmas. I deplore this unseasonable blooming,
but to compensate for it such subjects as Iris
unguicularis, Chimonanthus fragrans, Lonicera frag-
rantissima, Correa magnifica (on a wall), Brassica
insularis, Garrya elliptica and other naturally
winter-flowering plants have never been finer,
and a source of great enjoyment. Iris unguicu-
laris and Chimonanthus must have prepared for
this flowering early in last season, and are note-
worthy, as their free production of flowers is usually
associated with a previous hot summer. Thus it
appears to me that a dry spring hastened the ripening
of certain plants, early frosts deceived them with
false hopes of troubles past, and an unusually
mild December gave them no further warning
of troubles ahead.

Waltkam Cross. E. A. Bowles.

BOOKS.

Fruit-Growing lor Beginners.*— The ranks

of gardeners are constantly being augmented by
beginners, and one of their many troubles is to
find quickly information upon which reliance may
be placed. Authors thoroughly conversant with
all the multifarious details of their subjects are
apt to take it for granted that the readers for whom
they are writing are equally skilled in the rudiments,
and the result is that what are elementary points
to the experienced are omitted. It is particu-
larly these that the tyro wants to aid him to estab-
lish his garden on a sound foundation. Far be it
from me to blame the authors, since I have the
honour to take humble rank with them, and have
probably found as many pitfalls as the majority
— very possibly more than the minority — and,
so doing, have failed in some degree of my duty.

The author of " Fruit-Growing for Beginners,"
Mr. F. W. Harvey, F.R.H.S., Editor of The
Garden, has made no mistakes in the direction
indicated, because he has taken nothing for granted.
It is true that lie wanders into error in the second
and third hues of his Preface, when saying that
there is no handbook on fruit culture suited to the

• " Frult-Growiiijj for Beainners," by F. W. Harvey,
F.K.H.S. ; price Is.', or in stout cloth covers Is. 6d. net.
The Country Life Librar.v, 20, Tavistock Street, Coveiit
Garden, London, W.C.

needs of the amateur. Filial duty, with honesty
of opinion, compels me to say that " Profitable
Fruit-Growing " is essentially a book for the novice,
and my father's name will be honoured by posterity
as its author. But, after all, it matters little
what is said in a preface, since no one reads it
other than the one who is anxious to find fault
or to seek an excuse to grumble about a point
which has no practical importance.

Mr. Harvey, then, sets himself to teach the
principles which underlie successful fruit culture,
and he admirably succeeds in his task. He has
achieved the distinction of getting right down to
his subject, with the result that no detail has been
passed over as too insignificant for statement.
He has fully appreciated the fact that the grower
who has once learned the small points has set his
feet firmly on the threshold of success. Too many
amateurs who become imbued with the love of
gardening rush ahead without thought or con-
sideration, and, later, wonder why failure has been
the end of their efforts. The best advice that I
can give those who are about to essay the art of
fruit-growing is diligently, intelligently and re-
peatedly to study Mr, Harvey's simple words of
wisdom, because their reward, provided, of course,
that they proceed with scrupulous exactitude
mixed with the common-sense with which they
are endowed, must be gratifying success. The
man who could fail under such instructions as are
given in this book would, indeed, be clever in his
stupidity, so clearly and forcibly are the funda-
mental principles set forth in its 124 pages.

" Fruit-Grovring for Beginners " resembles other
books in that it is arranged in chapters, each treat-
ing of some particular phase of its subject ; but it
differs from many, probably from most, in having
a tail to every chapter, in which its burning point-
might I say its sting ? — is summarised. For
example, who will venture to dispute the truth of
any one of the following facts or statements ?
" Grow your ovsm fruit. It will be better than any
you can buy. Nurserymen will be pleased to supply
trees for large or small gardens. The beginner
should not attempt at the outset, before he has
gained some practical laiowledge, to grow fruit on
a large scale. Start with a few kinds and master
the cultivation of these first."

There are exhaustive chapters on soils, sites,
propagation, forms of trees, planting, staking,
pruning, mulching and manuring, all dealing with
generalities ; while subsequent chapters treat
specifically of Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries,
Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Gooseberries, Cur-
rants, Blackberries, Raspberries, Logan and kindred
berries, Figs, Medlars, Quinces, Mulberries, Grapes
and Nuts, so it is abundantly clear that nothing
has been omitted. Beyond these there is a chapter
on the insect pests and fungus diseases to which the
fruit trees of oiu- gardens are heirs. This is so
important a phase of the subject that it might have
been amplified to advantage. Severe compression
has forced the omission of such remedies for
American blight as the application of luiseed or
sweet oil, and of Hellebore powder against the
GoosebeiTy caterpillar. But perhaps these|j criti-
cisms are a little captious. Throughout the whole
of the 1^4 pages which comprise " Fruit-Crowing
for Beginners " there is sound advice, which might
be followed with much benefit by many <jldj as
well" as young growers. The several illustra-
tions are on all fours with the letterpress-
practical instructive value has been allowed to
overwhelm mere ornamentation. — Hor.^ce J.
Weight.

GARDEN!

s^'-

No. 214c,.— Vol. LXXVII.

January 25, 1913.

GONTBNTS.

Notes of the Week

CORRESl'CINIJENrE

A 11 o 1 il Oak at

Harnpaue Wood . .

Iris tineitaiia fluwi.-!-

1112 outdoors
Omphalodes verna
f 1 o «■ e I i n g in
Itfc'-mbcr
Mahnaison C a •• n a -

tioiis

Iris stylosa
Viola floraircnsis
Tlii; Manetti stock for

Koscs

Forttu'oniin-i events . .
Gaubexiso Acrostics
Prizes fok the Best

KocK Gardens
Science in Uelatiox

TO HORTICtTLTHRE . .

Rose Garden
Rose Mrs. Mackellar
Some of tlie newer
decorative Roses

Rock and Water Gar
The Mountain Aven:
X rare Primrose

I'l.owER Garden
Tlie Tree Pink. . .
Lilies ; .\ causerie .

42
43

43

J3
43
43

43
43
43

43

44

45

DEN

45
46

46
4H

FIOWER (JARUEN
Xotes on Chrysanthe-
mums 47

Bo r d e X Carnations
and mild weather 48
The Thorndeaved Crab

Apple 48

Kitchen Garden
Hints on f o r c i n tr

Asparagus . . . . 48
A new- s e e d 1 i n ti
Tomato 48

ClARDESINCl FOE BEOISNERS

How to plant Grape

Vines 49

How to improve

lawns 49

Gakdeninc; op the Wkek
For Southern par-
dons 50

For Xorthoin L'ar-

dens :-0

Practical Hints on

Table DECOR.iTioN 51
Some Little - known

Hardv Flowers .. 51
FRI'IT G.^rden
The t h i n n i n 2 of
fruit trees . . . . 51
Bujins manures on
analysis 52

ILIiOSTRATIONS.

Iris reticulata histrioide- 42

Rose Mrs. MaekeUar. a new Hybrid Tea 44

The Mountain Aven.s 45

The Tree Pink in the Royal Gardens, Kew 46

The Thorn-leaved Crab Apple 47

A house of Tomato Ma<jnit\ceut 48

How to plant Grape Vine^ 49

BDITORIAL, NOTICBS.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

Th<' KflUof wetcmnes i>fiotogmi>/t8, articles ami nnu-s.
bat hi' a'iU not hi> responsible for their safe return. Alt
reasonable care, however, unll be taken, and where stamps
are enrlosed. he 'rill endeavour to return non-arcepted
coiitribatians.

.\s regards photographs, if paijment be desired, the Editor
asks thnt the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It mast be distinrihj understood thai only the actual photo-
grapher or ou-ner of the copyright will he treated u-ith.

The Editor a ill not he responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to ttse, and
the receipt of a proof must not he taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden uill atone
be recognised as acceptance

20, Tavistock St, eel. Covent Garden, W.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Our Sweet Pea Number.— Our next issue,

dated l-ebruary i, wiH contain a number ot
special articles on Sweet Peas, and these will deal
with several little-understood phases of Sweet
Pea cultivation. There wdl also be included a
coloured plate of four of the best Sweet Peas of
to-day and some unique photographic illustrations
of Sweet Peas. As there is sure to be a large
demand for this issue, we advise readers to order
in advance any e.xtra copies they may require.
The price will, as usual, lie one penny.

Tulip Vermilion Brilliant.— It is difficult to
understand why this Tulip is not more extensively
grown in pots for forcing into flower early in the
year. Compared with the Due Van Thol varieties,
which appear to find so much favour, it has much
to commend it. The flowers are of deep rich colour,
are borne on long stems, and last in good condition
for a much longer period than the Due Van Thols.
.Although its habit is rather stiff, this is not notice-
able when the plants are arranged with a few small
Fems or other foliage plants.

An Annual for a Sunny Spot. — Now that seeds

of annuals are being ordered, it may be useful
to draw attention to the Sun Plant, Portulaca
grandiflora, which is an ideal, low-growing flower
for the hottest place in the garden. It delights in
well-drained, rather sandy soil, and seeds are best
sown towards the end of .\pril or early in May
where the plants are to flower. There are single
and double flowered forms, and both are usually
sold in mixed colours, some of which are very
brilliant. The plants are quite procumbent, have
fleshy leaves and quickly form a carpet.

A Little-Known Dianthus. — There is a charm-
ing little Moimtain Pink known as Dianthus
microlepis, which is seldom seen in gardens and
rarely mentioned in horticultural works. The
flowers are carmine red and the plants dwarf and
tufted, not unlike D. glacialis in miniature, although
it is quite distinct from that species. It occurs
in the mountains of Thrace and Bulgaria at fairly
high altitudes. There is also a white form, but
this is seldom found in the wild state. When
better known, D. microlepis bids fair to become a
popular alpine plant.

A Useful Winter Shrub. — One of the most

interesting shrubs during the winter months, and
one that is not sufficiently grown, is Cassinia
fulvida. .\t the present time its golden leaves,
minute though they are, make quite a warm and
pleasing feature in otherwise dull surroundings.
It is a quick-growing and rather ungainly shrub,
but this defect can be remedied by occasionally
pruning back the too venturesome growths in March.
Anything like formality must, however, be care-
fully guarded against when pruning. This shrub
was at one time known as Diplopappus chryso-
phyllus.

A Valuable Timber Tree. — It is not generally
known that Catalpa cordifolia (which is sometimes
regarded as a vigorous form of C. bignonioides, or
Indian Bean Tree) is valued by reason of its wood
having the remarkable power of resisting decay
when in contact with earth or water. The follow-
ing observation is made by Sargent ; " The trunks
of Catalpa trees killed by the sinking and subse-
quent immersion of a large tract of land near New
Madrid, Missouri, which followed the earthquake
of i8ii, were standing perfectly sound 67 years
later, although all their companions in the forest
had disappeared long before." Catalpa wood is
well adapted for railway sleepers, gateposts, &c.,
but so far Catalpas have only been grown in this
coimtry as ornamental flowering trees.

A Beautiful Heath. — An interestmg group is
formed in the greenhouse at Kew by several kinds
of Ericas and various Australian shrubby plants,
but E. melanthera is the most conspicuous subject,
for it is represented by specimens sJ feet to 4J feet
high, which are flowering from base to summit.
Grown in a different way to that usually
adopted for Ericas, they have been allowed to
attain their present height practically unchecked ;
thus they are very narrow in comp.arison to their
height, the side growths nowhere being more than
from 6 inches to 9 inches in length.

The Rev. W. Wilks. — We are pleased to be
able to auiiuuiice that a movement is on foot to
present a testimonial to the Rev. W. Wilks, secre-
tary of the Royal Horticultural Society, as an
appreciation of his services to horticulture during
the past twenty-five years. As we pointed out in our
issue for December 28, 1912, Mr. Wilks has been
secretary of the society for that period, and during
that time has done a vast amount of good work
for the society and horticulture generally. Sub-
scriptions towards the testimonial are invited from
Fellows of the society, such subscriptions not to
exceed £r is. All cheques and postal orders
should be sent to the Manager, the London County
and Westminster Bank, Victoria Branch, Victoria
Street, Westminster, and should be crossed
" Wilks Testimonial."

The Purple-Leaved Plum. — It is usual for
this tree to blossom towards the end of March,
but this year many flowers were open diuring
the first week in January, thus making a
companion for the early-flowering Almond, Prunus
davidiana, which often opens its flowers towards
the end of January or early in February, Both
these trees require planting against a background
of Pines, Arbutuses, Evergreen Oaks, or some other
evergreen to be seen to advantage, otherwise
much of the effect is lost. A group of the Purple-
leaved Plum was noted recently near a cluster
of Pine trees in the Arboretum at Kew, and
the effect of the white flowers and dark foliage
was very pretty. An undergrowth of variegated-
leaved Dogwood makes this particular group
attractive during summer also.

42

THE GAKDEN.

[January 25, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

An Old Oak at Hampage Wood. — 1 am enclosing
a photograph of an old Oak, called the "Gospel
Oak," which stands in Hampage Wood, near
Avington Park, Alresford, Hants. Local tradition
supposes St. Augustine to have preached the
Gospel under it, and this legend would seem to be
supported by the story of Bishop WalkeUn sparing
the Oak when he felled the whole of the remaining
timber in Hampage Wood for the rebuilding of
Winchester Cathedral in the year 1079. — E. G. S.
[Unfortunately, the photograph
sent by our correspondent was not
sharp enough for reproduction. —
Ed.:

A Delightful Netted Iris.— At
the time of writing (January 16)
the charming variety of Iris reti-
culata known as histrioides is in
full bloom. The flowers are deep
blue in colour and a shade deeper,
almost purple, in the falls, with
cream markings radiating from a
golden line running down the
centre. Since the flowers are pro-
duced in little tufts near to the
ground, it seems to suggest that it
would be an admirable subject
for intermingling with yellow
Crocuses now coming into bloom.
It is one of the daintiest of
January flowers, showing a pre-
ference for a light soil and shel-
tered position. — Q., Surrey.

The Sweet-Scented Verbena.—

The valuable article by Mr. H.
Beckett on " The Best Shr\ibs for
T,ow Walls," on page ii, January \
issue, mentions the old Sweet-
scented Verbena, Aloysia or I.ippia
citriodora. Mr. Beckett justly
says that this is well worth a
position on a waU, giving shelter
from hard frosts in winter. Even
in Scotland, though in the milder
parts, it will stand the winter fairly
well' on a wall ; but it is greatly
helped by having a glass coping
over it — a valuable protection for
many tender subjects. Where glnss
accommodation is limited, it is an
advantage to know that the Sweet-
scented Verbena can be grown on
a wall. — S. .Arnott.
Daisies Flowering in Scotland.

! send yon some Daisy plants
m full bloom. They have now
been blooming here fully two
months all over our lawn, in spite of very
severe frosts at times during this^ period and
some snow. We stand very high on a hill
on the northern bank ol the river Tweed,
and are much e.vposed to northerly, westerly
and southerly winds. Our gardener thinks, with me,
that this blooming of Daisies thus far North at
such a time of year may be of sufficient interest
for you to mention it in The Garden.— (Mrs.)
F. M. J. Baxendalf., Bemersyde, St. Boswells, N.B.
[The plants sent by our correspondent were flower-
ing very freely. This is not unusual in the
Southern Counties of England. — En. I

Rose Sarah Bernhardt. — I am glad your worthy

correspondent ' Danecroft," on page 30, issue
January 18, finds some of ray notes on the newer
Roses amusing. I could hardly expect that he
would find them instructive also. He does
not consider I am justified in stating that
the trade has overlooked this Rose, and in order
to prove they have not he states that he knows
as a fact that two well-known firms have listed it
since 1908, and that he himself has exhibited it

Cyclamen cornis for many years, and have at the
present time a nice batch of plants in flower.
Some of them are fourteen years old, and annually
produce eighty to a hundred flowers on each
plant. The corms should be carefully ripened
after flowering, as I think next season's display
depends on this. They should not be shaken out
or repotted until the corms break into new growth.
Then they should be carefully cleared of decayed
stalks and potted into smaller pots than those

for the last four seasons. A gross total of three ! in which they last flowered. Do not throw them

nurserymen ! To which I can only reply. But
what are they among so many ? My statement
was not founded on catalogue knowledge. Since
1906, when I think Sarah Bernhardt was introduced

A BEAUTIFUL DWARF EARLY FLOWER, IRIS RETICULATA
HISTRIOIDES, PHOTOGRAPHED OUTDOORS ON JANUARY I6.

(not 1908) I have visited scores of Rose nurseries,
and I only remember finding Sarah Bernhardt in
one of them. I am truly sorry if I have hurt the
feelings of anyone in the trade ; but I submit for
a Rose introduced in 1906 to have to wait until
1912 before it finds its way into such recognition
as three catalogues would give it, surely justifies
my statement that it has been overlooked. But
we are both agreed that Sarah Bernhardt is a
good Rose, that should be more grown. —
Herbert E Molvneu.x.

Old Cyclamen Plants. — I agree with you about
the longevity of Cyclamens. I have grown old

aside like an old broom after they have given you
so much pleasure. Treat them kindly, and thev
will repay you for all your trouble. — William
Driver. Stonehouse, Gloucestershire.

In your last issue.

page 29, you have a note
as to the age of some cornis
of Cyclamen persicum, and
mention one plant which you
know to be of the age of twenty-
five years, asking if this can be
beaten. I do not know about
C. persicum, but there is a corm
of C. neapolitanum in this gar-
den, brought here by my late
father, which must be at least
forty years old, and which still
annually bears a profusion of
flowers. I measured it last autumn,
and it is about eight inches in dia-
meter. F. HERBERTCHAPMAN,ify«.

A National Daffodil Society. —

I was very glad to read a letter
on the above subject in your issue
of the 4th inst., page 2. The
formation of such a society, it
seems to me, has been too long
delayed, and should not be further
postponed, for the Daffodil and its
cult is developing with remarkable
rapidity, and in the interests of
the trade and lovers of the
flower alike it is most desirable
that a society should be formed
to look after its many interests,
just as the Rose, Sweet Pea and
other societies have been formed
for a like purpose, and with excel-
lent results. In your issue of
February 18, 1911, pages 74 and 75,
vou were good enough to publish
a letter of mine on this subject,
and from conversations I have
since had with those interested
in the Daffodil, I am convinced that
such a society has but to be started
under good auspices to be success-
ful. But in this, as in all else,
it is a case of " It is the duty
of leaders to lead " ! Will not
those many well - known heads
of the Daffodil world put their shoulders to the
wheel ? If they will but do for the Daffodil what
Rose-growers and Rose-lovers have done and do
for the Rose, I feel positive that the " small fry,"
of whom I am glad to count myself one, will heartily
back them up. There are many, I know, who feel,
as I do, that the Daffodil is too important a flower
to be run as a " side-show," even by so excellent
and powerful an institution as the Royal Horti-
cultural Society. .A " Conference of the Powers "
could easily be arranged if only one of the " big-
wigs " would take the necessary steps. Who will
carry the flag ? — A. C. Carne Ross, Brecon.

January 25, 1913.

THE GARDEN.

43

Iris tingitana Flowering Outdoors.— It may

ho of interest to your readers to know that I picked
on the 8th inst. in the open a bloom of Iris tingitana.
I have two other buds showing colour. This is
quite the earliest date on which I have seen this
Iris in flower. — H. G. Hawker, Strode, Ivybridge.

Omphalodes verna Flowering in December. —

.\iii'>iiK the listx ol pLints given as flowering
especiallv early this winter, I have noticed no
mention of Omphalodes verna, a plant of which I
saw in full bhiom in a garden near here on Decem-
ber 2t, 1912, growing in a shaded border with a
western aspect. — M.mid Glvn, Albury Hall, Much
Hadham, Herts.

Malmaison Carnations. — The article by Mr.

.\!l.>rchie nil these Carnations, page 651, issue Decem-
ber 28, Vol. LX.XVI., had three most interesting
and instructive points : (i) The unusual layering
material employed ; (2) His saline preparation for
improving the foliage ; and (3) the pinching or
stopping back system adopted. It has been my
lot to work in two very large establishments where
some hundreds were yearly managed, but in neither
did we practise points one and two, though point
three was most successfully followed in one of the
gardens. I'rom personal observations and enquiries
made, I am inclined to believe very few gardeners
have ever tried the experiment. — C. T.

Iris stylosa. — I have picked fully ninety blooms
from m)- two small clumps since November, and there
are plenty more to comb. I am rather surprised,
because last sumtner was a wet one ; but I think
the three hot weeks in July effected the necessary
ripening of the plants, which are close up to the
wall of the house facing west, where they have been
for seven years. I never divide or move them ;
I keep them as dry as possible ; I never manure
them ; I just leave them alone. I think May and
June are the months to m.ike a fresh planting.
No flowers must be expected for the first year after
planting or moving. — H. W. Price, Amblecote,
Cobham, Surrey.

Viola florairensis. — The note by M. Correvon
on Viola florairensis, page 11, January 4 issue,
sh<>uld be welcomed as drawing notice to one of
the prettiest and most useful of the small alpine
Violas. I first saw it last summer in the wonderful
rock garden of Sir Frank Crisp at Friar Park,
Henley, and was much pleased with its beauty
there. Mr. Knowlef, who has a thorough know-
ledge of the plants under his charge, had a very
high opinion of V. florairensis. It seems to have a
good deal of the character of one of the parents,
V. rothomagensis, but improved by the influence
of V. calcarata. As a rock garden plant V. florair-
ensis is much superior to many of the other hybrids
we see and hear so much about. — S. .\rnott.

The Manetti Stock for Roses. — Just now is

what one may term the holiday season for the Rose-
grower and at such times he is open to discuss
matters th,it, if mooted during the summer, would
probably be allowed to pass tmchallenged. I
must confess, I have been a strong opponent of the
Manetti stock, but I think, in justice to an old
friend, one must give it its due. In November last
I saw a grand bed of Richmond almost in full bloom.
The plants were only planted in the previous
autumn, but they were evidently quite happy
and growing luxuriantly in a deep soil of a strong
clayey nature. Now, these plants were on the
Manetti ! It was not the first occasion I had noticed
the superiority of this variety when grown upon
the Manetti. As a ;naiden I have h.id superb
flowers of Richmond from the Manetti. Another
Rose equally grand as a maiden on Manetti is

I-ady Ashtown. Last summer I thought I would
try some of Messrs. .\. Dickson's fine novelty,
Mrs. Walter F.aslea, on the Manetti, as upon the
seedling Briar the growth did not satisfy me. I
was rewarded with splendid plants, and by dis-
budding freely splendid show blooms resulted.
This IS no news to the Rose man, but he will say,
" How about the Manetti for cut-back plants?"
This is what I want to ascertain. Have any readers
found any special sorts superior as cut-backs on
Manetti stock ? If so, they would be rendering
rosarians some service if they would name the
sorts and the soil they were growing in. This
question of stocks is a very important one, and I
wish the National Rose Society, when they
issue their new oflicial catalogue, would give us
some reliable expert opinions upon the best stock
for each variety. — D.wecroft.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

January 28. — Royal Institute Meeting. Lecture
by Professor W. Batcson.

January 31. — Beckenham Hortirultur.il Society's
Meeting and Lecture.

February r. — Societc Fran^aise d' Horticulture
de Londres Meeting.

GARDENING ACROSTICS.

A S announced in our issue for December 14,
f\ 1912, we are publishing a series of eight

/ % acrostics based on gardening or simple
/ % botany. Prizes of £3, £2 and £1,
* ^ respectively, will be awarded to those

sending in correct solutions of all the
acrostics. The names of those who have correctly
solved the problems will be published from week
to week, and the final list of prize-winners in our
issue of February 15. In all cases the Editor's
decision must be final. The solution to Acrostic
No. 6, which appeared last week, will be published
next week, and the solution to No. 7, which is
printed below, will be published in our issue dated
February 8. For full rules governing the compe-
tition readers are referred to page 623 of our issue
for December 14, 1912.

DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. 7.

Written about by Andrews ; grown by the
Loddiges ; sometimes rn favour, sometimes not.
Grown indoors and out of doors.

My firsts are my English name, and my lasts
that given me by Pliny.

1. Sometimes a "Rose." sometimes a "bear's

foot."

2. A method of training fruit trees.

3. As good as Ivy and cleaner.

4. Frequently put into pots — best when turned

over as I must be.

5. Mahomet's Flower of Paradise.

Solutions of the above must be sent so as to reach
the Editor at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden,,
London, W.C., not later than February i. Mark the
envelope ^\Acrostic " on the upper left-hand corner.

SOLVER OF ACROSTIC No. 4.

Only one competitor correctly solved Acrostic
No. 4. This was the Rev. J. E. Gardiner. We
would remind readers that in the event of no one
correctly solving all the acrostics, the prizes will
be awarded to those who send in correct solutions
of the greatest number.

*,^'^ The names of those who have correctly solved
No. 5 will be given next week.

SOLUTION AND NOTES OF
ACROSTIC No. 5.

" MORAINES — GENTIANS."

* I. M .iLpiGHi G (rew)

t 2. O R.\N'G E

X 3. R API N

§ 4. .\ FRICO T

II 5- 1 I

^ 6. N IGELL A

*"' 7. E MMERTO N

tt 8. S IGNATURK S

* Malpighi, an Itahan, and Grew, an English-
man, both of whom lived in the latter half of the
seventeenth century, are styled " co-founders of
the science of Plant Anatomy." — See " Makers of
British Botany," page 44. t Orange trees were
very highly esteemed 200 to 300 years ago.— See
" Systema Horticulturae," by Wooldridge (Wor-
lidge), fourth edition, page 138. An Orange tree
was a " Green." t Rapin, a French Jesuit, wrote
a Latin poem on Gardens in four parts. Flowers,
Trees, Water and Orchards. This was translated
into English by James Gardiner in 1718. § Loudon
in his Encyclopa;dia (fourth edition, page 719),
quotes Martyn as suggesting the derivation of
Apricot from " a Precox," then with usage " Apri-
cocks " — now Apricots. It was once looked
upon as an early Peach. " Seed of the Sun " is
a Persian name, and one can easily see its appro-
priateness, li Botanists have now agreed that
" ii " should be used in terminations. 11 For
some of the aliases of Nigella (a diminutive of
niger, black) see " Annual and Biennial Garden
Plants," by A. E. Speer. The seeds are small
and black. "• Emmerton was a famous grower
of Auriculas, and wrote a treatise on them, which
was published in 1816. ft For the " Doctrine of
Signatures " see Agnes Arber's " Herbals,"
Chapter VIII. Such names as Adder's Tongue,
Eyebright, Lungwort and Liverwort have been
given for the medicinal properties the plants were
said to have. Why they should have such names
is explained by their " Signatures."

PRIZES FOR THE BEST
ROCK GARDENS.

To further stimulate the interest that is being taken
in rock gardens, the Proprietors of The Garden
offer the following prizes for three photographs of
a rock garden, or portions of a rock garden :

First prize : Five Guineas, or a Silver Cup of

that value.
Second prize : Two Guineas, or Books of that

value.

Third prize : One Guinea.

The competition is open only to the actual
owner of the rock garden, or to his or her gardener.
The object is to encourage good rock gardening,
and preference will, therefore, be given to those
rock gardens which show originality in design, and
where the plants depicted are well grown. It
should be distinctly understood that awards will
be made to the best rock gardens, and not neces-
sarily to the best photographs. The photographs
need not be taken by the competitor, who must,
however, in such cases have the written consent
of the photographer for their reproduction in The
Garden. For rules governing this competition
see issues for January 4 and 11.

44

THE GAEDEN.

[January 25, 1913

SCIENCE IN RELATION TO
HORTICULTURE.

DURING recent years science has played
^ a very important part in the progress
I of horticulture, and we propose to
f publish from time to time, under
the above heading, particulars of
recent scientific investigations. These
articles will be written by Mr. D. Houston, F.L.S.,
Agricultural Biologist at the Royal College of Science
for Ireland. Mr. Houston has for many years
been keenly interested in science as applied to
horticulture, and is able to write about it so that
the average reader can understand
what is meant.

Rust in Hollyhocks. — Professor
Eriksson, a Swedish botanist, has
been investigating the life-history
of the parasitic fungus that causes
" rust " in Hollyhocks and Mallows
(Puccinia Malvace.arum). The
disease is a very troublesome one
to gardeners, so much so, indeed,
that the culture of Hollyhocks is
not even attempted in some gar-
dens. The disease came originally
from South America, from which
it spread to " the States " and to
Europe. Everyone knows the
disease, and that the rust patches
represent little ruptures in the
skin of the host plant filled with
the spores technically known as
" teleutospores." In most cases,
in other plants where teleutospores
are formed they hibernate duruig
the winter, but in the present case
they can germinate at once, and so
propagate the disease during the
whole of the growing season. This
is one reason why the disease
spreads so rapidly. .According to
Eriksson, the spores cannot survive
the Swedish winters, neither can
the vegetative mycelium of the
fungus existing in the plant. How
is the disease propagated, then,
from season to season ? Eriksson
says that the source of infection
is from the seeds. His belief is
that the living matter of the
parasite mixes with the living
matter contained in the cells of
the Hollyhock, and that when the
seeds are harvested the parasite
is dormant in the seeds. As the
seeds germinate in the spring, the
fungus also awakens into life, and ROSE P

when the plants reach the age of
throe months the mycelium of the
pest uivades every organ of its body and breaks out
into rusty eruptions all over the plant. It should
be added that this idea of Eriksson's is not uni-
versally accepted by working botanists, as a
belief is held by some that the surface of the seeds
gets contaminated with the microscopic spores,
much in the same way as seed grains get contami-
nated with the spores of smut. In any case, it is
clear that gardeners should pay close attention
to the origin and character of the seeds of all mal-
vaceous plants before they venture on sowing them.
Explosives as an Aid to Gardeners. — The us^
of explosives as helpful agents in laborious tillage

operations is at present engaging the attention
of cultivators. Cartridges containing a com-
paratively safe explosive are inserted at suitable
depths in the soil to be disturbed, with the result
that after the explosion the deep subsoil is cracked
and fissured, and the upper soil reduced to powder
through the sheer violence of the shock. Experi-
ments, for example, have been successfully carried
out in heavy, wet soils expensive to work under
ordinary methods of cultivation. The work was
most eft'ectively done and at a relatively low cost.
The advantages claimed for the method are : i. It
so displaces the soil that it alters its physical
character, rendering it more suitable for the roots
of cultivated plants. 2. By fining the soil it

strong enough, while gun-cotton and dynamite are
too dangerous. The " safety " type contains at
least 8n per cent, of nitrate of ammonia, and being
in itself a valuable plant food, it contributes to
the fertility of the soil.

Feeding Carnations. — An interesting series of
experiments with artificial fertilisers in relation
to Carnation culture has been carried out recently
at the New Hampshire Agricultural Station.
Recognising the commercial interests involved in
the cut-flower trade, the objects of the experi-
menter (D. Lumsden) v.'ere, first, to discover the
relative value of certain fertilisers applied as a
top-dressing to Carnation plants grown imder
glass, and, secondly, to determine if differences in
manurial treatment affect to any
appreciable extent the keeping
quality of the cut blooms. It will
be unnecessary to describe the
experiments at length, but the
tests were carefully arranged and
strictly carried out. The fertilisers
used were (among others) bone-
meal, nitrate of soda, muriate of
potash, fowl-manure and Clay's
Fertilizer. The bone-meal gave the
best results. Its action was much
slower than that of the nitrate, but
the plants were more vigorous and
the keeping properties of the cut
flowers miirkedly superior to any
of the other manures used. Clay's
Fertilizer was the second best with
respect to keeping (juality. It was
quicker in action than the bone-
meal. Fowl-m.Hnure, when used in
small quantities, came third, but
used in excess was distinctly
liarmful, as it ^nduced a rapid but
weak growth and greatly shortened
the keeping period of the cut
flowers. Muriate of potash pro-
duced good-keeping blooms, but
it was not nearly so good on the
whole as the three already named.
Nitrate of soda produced the least
satisfactory results. The plants
responded very quickly at first,
but eventually they showed less
vigour, and the cut flowers lost
their freshness much sooner than
the others. D. Hot'STON

Royal College ot Science for
Ireland, Dublin.

ROSE GARDEN.

:rs. mackellar, a new hybrid tea of great

PROMISE.

materially increases its water-holding powers.
3. In the case of wet lands it improves the drainage
by forming deep fissures in the subsoil. 4. In the
work of planting fruit trees, holes can be rapidly
formed and the upper soil and subsoil considerably
improved as a medium for root development.
In old orchards also the soil can be opened and
improved. 5. Other work, such as the excavation
of ditches, can be easily carried out by the explosive
method. The kind of explosive recommended
is a safety one, having as its base the nitrate of
ammonia made by the Favier Explosives Company
of Vilvorde, near Brussels. Gunpowder is not

ROSE MRS. MACKELLAR.

This charming Hybrid Tea bids fair
to become popular when better
known. In colour it is of a creamy
vellow tone, possessing the precious gift of fragrance.
It carries a large bloom of good substance, the
form of which is clearly depicted in the accompany-
ing illustration. It is one of many superb varieties
for which we have to thank Messrs. Alex. Dickson
and Sons, Limited, Newtownards, County Down,
and was shown in September last before the Royal
Horticultural Society with two other new Roses,
viz., George Dickson and Edward Bohane,
each of them being honoured with an award of
merit. The Rose under notice is named after the
wife of Mr. A. Mackellar, V.M.H., the well-known
head-gardener at the Royal Gardens, Windsor.

January 25, 1913]

THE GAEDEN.

45

SOME OF THE NEWER DECORATIVE
ROSES.

(Conliiiucd from page 32.)
Dorothy Ratcliffe (S. McGredy and Son, 191 1),
Hybrid Tea. — One of the first of the British-
raised Roses to have as one of its parents one of
the pernetiana Roses ; and the first, one has
little doubt, of a large army that will vary and be
of all colours possible to Roses. Here we have a
slight resemblance to Lyon Rose, but the plant
is a better shape and a better grower, and has not
the bad habit of defoliation that spoils Lyon Rose
as a bedder. The flowers are of good shape ;
colour variable, coral red, shading to fawn yellow
as the flower ages. It received the silver-gilt
medal of the National Rose Society at the autumn
show in 1910, and should be extensively planted
by those who like the Lyon colouring, but do
not like its " manners and customs."

Ethel Malcohn (S. McGredy and
Son, 1910), Hybrid Tea. — A good
garden Rose and fragrant ; fully
described under " Exhibition
Varieties."

Evelyn Dauntesey (S. McGredy

and Son, lyii), Hybrid Tea. — I was
very pleased with this Rose in my
garden last year. Notwithstanding
the wet of the autumn, it opened
well and freely. It is quite a good
grower, of excellent habit ; colour,
soft salmon, outside of petal a deep
carmine rose, and the flowers were
freely and continuously produced ;
dehghtfully fragrant. As a bedder I
can strongly recommend it, as the
colour is warm and distinct. One
hesitates to call it an improvement
on La France, but it is reminiscent
of that grand old variety, and cer-
tainly does not ball in damp, wet
weather. The flowers come with a
good point, and the petals reflex like
La France, but are much deeper in
colour, more like Grand Due A. de
Luxembourg. It was the first Rose
to receive the silver-gilt medal of the
National Rose Society, awarded for
the first time at the " National " at
Regent's Park in r9io, and I hope
all silver - gilt medal Roses will
equally well deserve the award as
Evelyn Dauntesey has proved she
did. I see the last " e " is generally THE

left out, but I have ascertained that
as printed at the head of this note is the correct
way of spelling the name.

Eugene BouUet (Pernet-Ducher, 1910), Hybrid
Tea. — I should say an Etoile de France seedling
with a little more crimson in the flower. It opens
(as well it might) very much better than that
disappointing Rose, is a good grower, and very
free-flowering all through the season. A crimson
red, with a certain amount of piurple in the older
flowers. One of those Roses that will not be
wanted for long, as it is bound to be improved upon
as far as colour goes.

Ferniehurst (.Mex. Dickson and Sons, igit),
Hybrid Tea. — A garden Rose of much promise
as well as an exhibition variety, under which
heading I have already described it.

Florence Haswell Veitch (Wilham Paul, 191 1),
Hybrid Tea. — A Rose that has been very strongly
recommended to me as a splendid garden Rose,
of good colour and very fragrant. It is vigorous

enough in growth to be called almost semi-climbing ;
good scarlet, and likely to be very useful. I have
not flowered it, so am only passing on information
which I, however, believe to be reliable.
George Reimers (Soupert et Notting, 1910),

Hybrid Tea. — A good-coloured scarlet that will
be useful, though for a short time only. A fine
grower and bedder, not a bad shape, with a good
long bud. I am afraid the life of many of our
new Roses will be very short, here to-day and
gone to-morrow. The progress that is being made
is so rapid that they will be quickly superseded.
Herzogin Marie Antoinette (Jacobs, 1911),
Hybrid Tea. — This was one of the best of the Con-
tinental varieties that I tried in 1912. I did not see
it in any of the nurseries I visited, and the only
catalogue I have been able to find it in is that of
Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons It is undoubtedly
a lot better than many others that are being grown

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

THE MOUNTAIN AVENS.

(Dryas octopetala.)

THIS beautiful plant is, unfortmiately,
not too generous with its creamy,
Rose-like flowers when growing in our
gardens, no matter how carefully we
humour it. In the mountains, how-
ever, it is one of the most universal
of alpine plants, and seems equally happy on either
limestone or granitic formations, provided it has
full exposure to sunshine and root moisture during
its growing season. At elevations ranging from
5,000 feet to 7,500 feet this Mountam Avens makes
glorious, spreading patches of verdiure many feet
across, which in ,lune and July become sheeted
with the pale cream, eight-petalled flowers rising

•^? **,^*«

MOUNT,\IX AVENS (DRYAS OCTOPETALA) IN ITS NATIVE HAUNTS ABOVE ZERMATT.

and catalogued. If only for its colour it is worth
a place. I heard of it from a Continental corre-
spondent, and he thought very highly of it and
told me it had received quite a number of awards.
It is a yellow of a good deep shade generally called
orange, fading to an old gold. It is very fragrant,
with strong Tea perfume, and a good grower.
Reminiscent of Marquise de Sinety at its best.

James Ferguson (William Ferguson, 1911),
Hybrid Tea. — A Scotch-raised sport from Caroline
Testout, of a beautiful silvery pink shade ; identical
in every other respect. It was awarded a silver-
gilt medal at the National Rose Society's autumn
show at Vincent Square in 1910. It is certainly
a lovely colour, paler than Mme. C. JuranvUle,
and the only other sport of Caroline Testout that I
think worth growing.

Jonkheer J. L. Mock (Leenders, 1910). — See
" Exhibition Varieties."

Southampton. Herbert E. Molyxeux.

just above the foliage. So plentifully are these
yellow-eyed, Rose-like blossoms produced that
the foliage is often in danger of being overlooked.
When above Zermatt during July last I came
upon whole hillsides clothed with this lovelv plant,
mingling on the sloping banks with Primula
farinosa, Soldanella montana and Pinguiculas.
Here, though the chief flush of the flowering season
was past, I secured the accompanying photograph,
which gives some idea of how decorative a plant
the Dryas can be when well flowered. From obser-
vations in the mountains I believe success would
more surely attend our efforts in the lowland garden
if we gave it the same extremely gritty, well-
drained soil and sunny aspect in which it thrives
in its native habitat, and also ample water from
March to July. Possibly it would make a satis-
factory moraine plant, since that situation would
provide these various requirements in a large
degree. Reginald A. Malby.

46

THE GARDEN.

[January 25, 1913.

A RARE PRIMROSE.

(Primula Juribella.)
Earnest enquiries have often sought of me the
character and country of this very rare Primula.
In the innocence of my heart I myself once derived
its name mysteriously from " Jura," and believed
it the especial species of that range. It was only
quite by chance one day that in scanning a map of
the Dolomites I came upon the word " Giur-bella,"
and instantly knew that my quest was ended.
P. Juribella, in fact, takes its name from the Giur-
bella Alp (where, to the best of my belief, it does not

Unfortunately, this and some of the other hybrids
with minima for one parent come up disastrously
for comparison against such crashing beauties as
minima itself, or gorgeous spectabilis, blazing
tyrolensis, bland and melting Allionii, or the
imperial violet loveliness of glutinosa. Few
indeed of the hybrid Primulas can hope to rival
the beauty of their progenitors. There is no
question about floerkeana, Kellereri, Forsteri and
Heerii ; but if Juribella had ambitions to do so,
it has not succeeded. I will only add that in the
garden P. Juribella, like almost all the other hybrids,

THH TREE PINK (DI,\N'THUS ,\RBOREUS) IN THE ROy.-\L GARDENS, KEW.

grow), above the Val Travignolo in the Pala
Dolomites, and is a hybrid (only, I believe, recorded
here) between P. minima and P. tyrolensis. To
know all this was to go there. The first year 1
had trouble in finding the hybrid, for the flowers
were quite passed ; but find it I did, and abun-
dantly, on one Uttle steep slope of a mountain
whose turf was full of P. minima, and its limestone
rocks with P. tyrolensis. Once seen, the leaf is
never forgotten. Growing among P. minima it
is much rounder, draws to an oval and is not glossy,
but dull green, with glands that are its legacy
from the extreme stickiness of P. tyrolensis. This
season I went out again to see it in bloom ; but
the flower, I must confess it, disappointed me.
There is a vindictive aniline note about P. tyrolensis
which is so brilliant as to end by being impressive.
To the hybrid, however, it gives a tone that is at
once loud and feeble in its vulgarity. Then, having
inherited the worst fault of its father, P. Juribella
adds to it the thin and ragged outline that is the
worst fault of the worst forms of minima, its
mother. I am measuring P. Juribella, of course,
by a very exacting test. In itself it is certainly
a verv bright, striking and splendid little plant.

seems to show, as a rule, much more vigour and
robustness than either parent under ordinary condi-
tions of reasonable culture. Reginald Farrer.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

THE TREE PINK.

vDianthus arborf.us.)

WH.AT is probably the giant of the
genus is the subject, of the
accompanying illustration. It
has long been in cultivation, but
has not met with the apprecia-
tion it deserves, this being
probably due to the fact that it is somewhat tender,
requiring to be given a warm, sheltered spot, such
as the foot of a south wall, and to be protected
during severe weather. A well-grown specimen
in full flower is really a charming sight, as the
flowers open in succession for a period of six or
eight weeks. These are ij inches in diameter
and variable in colour, from pink and rose to lilac,
the lilac shades predominating among the plants
raised from seeds. These had better be discarded

and a stock raised of the rose or pink coloured
varieties from cuttings, which are readily rooted
under a bell-glass or hand-light in a half-shaded
spot in the garden, when they should then be
planted out direct into their permanent positions
for flowering, as they are impatient of any inter-
ference with the roots when once they have reached
their flowering size. The habit of the plant is
that of a free-branching dwarf shrub, and, densely
clothed with rich green or slightly glaucous leaves
in all the upper parts of the stems, the flowers
appear in July and continue in good condition
until the end of .A.ugust, while odd
^ , flowers continue to appear until

October, with its accompanying frosts,
checks all further display. From its
freedom of bloom and branching
habit it should make a valuable parent,
especially if crossed with the Carnation
or Pink ; at any rate, I throw out
the suggestion for what it is worth.

The plants depicted in the accom-
panying illustration were three and
a-half years old from cuttings, and
were each over four feet in height and
about five feet in diameter in July.
Under favourable conditions, such as
obtain in the South-West of England
and Ireland and on the Sonth-West Coast
of Scotland, the species would require
little or no protection, and would
rapidly form a large bush. It is a
native of the Grecian Archipelago,
also of the island of Crete, and is
well figured in Sibthorp's " Flora
Gra'ca," t. 406. C. P. Raffill.

LILIES: A CAUSERIE.

(ConlinuLii from piii;c 34.)

The Nankeen Lily, L. testaccum,

stands next in favour after L. gigan-

teum in this garden. I wish all my

readers had seen a group of some

twenty or more 6-feet-high stems

backed by some old Tree Ivies and

next to a fine old specimen of Ceano-

thus Gloire de Versailles, which was in

full bloom last July at the same time

as the Lilies. The soft greyish blue of the Ceanothus

v/as delightful as contrasted with the colouring

I of the Lily. .Apricots stirred up with plenty of

cream comes nearest to its colour of anything I

know, for I never remember to have seen the

Indian heroes of old who walked forth in nankeen

breeches.

It evidently likes us, for the group in question
I began as six bulbs, and at every lifting since they
have increased in a most satisfactory manner.
They have had no special luxuries provided for
them, but just the ordinary border soil, enriched,
at the rare intervals when the border is turned out
and replanted, with farmyard manure. For all
its delicate beauty this Lily does not seem to object
to a little strong feeding, provided the bulbs do
not actually come into contact with the manure.

Its origin is wrapt in mystery. Some think it
came from Japan, and Dr. Wallace stated, in his
useful book, " Notes on Lilies," that he had " more
than once " seen Japanese drawings by some of
the best artists in Yeddo which strongly resembled
it. Mr. Elwes, in the great " Lily Monograph,"
declares, on the contrary, that no such plant is
represented among the Japanese drawings seen by

January 25, 1913]

THE GARDEN.

47

liiiii. A recent work on Lilies gives 1846 as the
dale of its first recorded appearance, 1 think
following a misprint in Pr. Wallace's book, for it
was described by Lindley in the Botanical Register
in 1842 as flowering in RoUison's Nnrsery at
looting, and was figured in the following volume —
that for 1843. It is there said to be of Japanese
origin, and a frame or half-hardy bulb. But the
best account of its appearance in Europe is that
given by M. Van Houtte in Vol. I. of the " Flore
des Serres." He tells how M. Haage of Erfurt
found it, about the year 1836,1 n a bed of Martagons
which had been sent to him from Holland, and that
it was also in the possession of three amateurs at
l.iUe, who each believed his the only stock of
it. M. Van Houtte saw it in one of their gardens
and greatly admired it, and not long after a
quantity of bulbs were offered him from yet another
source. -Ml this appears to point to its origin as
seedlings from an accidental crossing and the
dissemination of the bulbs before they had flowered.
This would accord with the generally-accepted
opinion that it is a hybrid between the Madonna
Lily, I,, randidum, and the scarlet Turk's-cap,
I,, chalcedonicum. Its colour cer-
tainly suggests this combination.
Having no wild home from which
collected bulbs can be torn, we
are dependent on nursery increase
for its supply, and that I take
to be the reason of its still
rather high price ; but then, on the
other hand, one is sure of getting
liome-grown bulbs. So I strongly
advise its purchase and planting in as
great numbers as the plumpness of
one's purse admits. It certainly looks
best in large groups, and is equalh"
good at the back of a border among
quiet, cool - coloured neighbours or
standing out at the corner of a bed
among dwarf plants. Dendy Sadler
has so placed it in one of his charming
pictures, but I fear by the costumes of
the dear old couple sitting by it he has
antedated its introduction to English
gardens.

The Madonna Lily, L. candidnm,
is so well known that it seems a
work of supererogation for me to WTite
of it. But 1 do not think it is so
generally appreciated as the fact
deserves that there exists a poorer
form of it called var. peregrinum,
which is sometimes puffed up as being
rare and a superior form. One claim
made for it is that it is more disease-
resistant than the ordinary form. It
blooms rather later, has a purplish
black stem and thin spidery flowers,
very narrow in the segments, and not
recurving so gracefully as in the well-
known white Lily. I always feel a
sense of disappointment when I see
its starry blooms, and wish it coulc"
have been the form that was best
beloved of the dread fungus Botrytis cinerea. It is
hgured by Sweet in the second series of the
" British Flower Garden," t. 367.

There is also a so-called double form, in which
the axis of the flower is prolonged and bedecked
with narrow white segments arranged spirally.
When strong and healthy and favoured with fine
weather, this production of segments goes on
for some weeks, and a long spike of them is the
result ; but usually the inner ones damp oti and a

singularly ugly decayed vegetable muddle is offered
to view. It masquerades in lists at times under
the names of var. spicatum, var. monstrosum
or flore pleno. A very fine example of it
was figured in The Garden for September 14,
rgiz.

As to the best way to grow and how and when
to plant this fickle, fair jade, I do not believe the
same process, however carefully repeated, would
produce a similar result in any one garden for
certain. How can one advise others, then ? Some
say transplant as soon as the flowers fall ; others,
just before growth recommences — that is, of course,
the autumn production of radical leaves so
characteristic of this Lily. Doubtless both are
right — sometimes. Some twenty-five years ago
1 ordered some white Lily bulbs to plant in a
churchyard. They arrived on a frosty December
day, and I well remember the hopeless spirit in
which I broke up the hard-frozen top inch of soil
to plant them and the unpleasant way that biscuit-
like, stiff, frozen portion refused to be replaced
in any manner promising comfort to the poor
plants. Vet ne\er have I known Lilies thrive more

NOTES ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

BORDER PLANTS: SOME CHARMING VARIETIES.

Garde .N Chrysanthemums have become very
popular during the last few years. The introduc-
tion of a number of new varieties of great beauty
and dwarf habit has done much to make the
border Chrysanthemum popular. Then, again,
the deeper interest taken in the cultivation of
the plants has had good results ; they have
been trained in a more natural form and given
better positions. They have proved extremely
useful not only in the vegetable garden, but also
in flower borders, and yielded great quantities of
blossom for the house vases. The earliest com-
mence to bloom at the end of July, and there is a
continuous supply without any protection until
the frost come?.

How Cultivators May Fail. — Many cultivators

have failed to get the best from these plants in the
past through neglecting to deal with them in the
winter-time. All cultivators are not situated ahke.
Some have cold frames available at this season ;
others do not possess them. Now, the latter

THE THORN-LEAVED CRAB APPLE (PYRUS CRAT.EGIFOLIa), A BE.\UTIFUL SHRUB THAT FLOWERS

.\T MIDSUMMER. (See page iS.)

successfully nor increase .so happily as those two
rows. I think the success was due to their being
English-grown bulbs, and that, though lifted at
an awkward moment, they were not kept long
out of the soil. The best advice, I believe, is to
try all methods, and most probably the least
reasonable one will succeed best. With a flower
of this kind one never knows quite what is going
to happen. E. A. Bowles.

(To be continued.)

should carefully examine the old roots (stools they
are commonly called) and remove old stems,
foreign matter and very weakly sucker growths.
Then some fine sifted ashes must be neatly placed
among the suckers and all round them to a depth
of 2 inches. The ashes will protect the suckers
from frost and slugs. Cultivators who possess
cold frames may lift the old roots at once, and,
after carefully dividing them, separating the strong
young suckers which bear roots from the weakly

48

THE GAKDEN.

[January 25, 1913.

ones, transplant the former in the frame, 4 inches
apart each way, in a bed or good sandy loam
4 inches deep. By the middle of April these young
plants will be strong and branching and ready to
be planted out in the borders again. In the mean-
time the border soil must be deeply dug and well
manured.
Grouping to Secure Bold Effects. — A number

ul plaTits of the same variety should be planted
together to form groups, especially in the case of
broad borders. Where the borders are long and
narrow, rows of distinct varieties look very well.

Yellow and Yellow and Bronze Varieties. —

Cranford Yellow, Diana, Elstob Yellow, Etoile
d'Or, Figaro, Jenny, Horace Martin, Harrie, Mrs.
A. Thomson, Mrs. A. Beech, LesUe, Le Pactole,
Arion, Polly, Tapis d'Or, Tonkin,
A. Barham, Border Beauty and
Cranfordia.

White Varieties. — Le Cygne,
La Neva, Holmes' White, Hermine,
Flossball, EmUy, Dolly Prince,
Caledonia, Bouquet Blanc. Mrs.
W. J. Scott, Queen of the Earlies,
Roi des Blancs, Savoie, Tapis de
Neige, White Quintus and Auguste.

Pink Varieties. — Anita, James
Bateman, Goacher's Pink, Gertie,
Dolly Reeves, Lillie, Mabel Roberts,
Mme. Aug. Nonin, Sally, Provence,
Normandie and Mrs. Wingiield.

Crimson Varieties. — Roi de

Precoces, Mrs. W. Sydenham, Mrs.
E. V. Freeman, Weils' Crimson,
Goacher's Crimson, Crimson Diana
and Chaldon.

A Few Other Varieties. — Belle

Mauve, mauve ; Dolores, terra-
cotta; Fedora, rosy lilac; La
Somme, mauve and pink ; Henri
Yvon, rosy salmon ; Mme. Marques,
rosy white ; Rabelais, rosy purple ;
and Mandarin, red on a gold
ground.

The Propagation of Border

Varieties. — in addition to the
division already referred to, cut-
tings may be inserted about the
end of February and during the
early part of March. They form
roots quickly at that time, and the
resultant plants should be put out in
the borders during May. Avon.

the weather permits of it, the surface soil ought to
be lightly pricked over with a planting fork, or
even a bluntly-pointed stick, to encourage the
admission of air ; but it is necessary to guard
against disturbing the roots, as this seriously
prejudices the prospects of success. If it occurs
through any cause, lose no time in properly
refirming it. Senator.

THE THORN-LEAVED CRAB APPLE.

(PYRUS CRATjEGIFOLIA.)

Amid the wealth of handsome species belonging
to the genus Pyrus, the subject of the illustra-
tion on page 47 must take a prominent

are 1 inches to 3 inches long, of a rich dark green
colour, ovate or nearly round, and beautifully
divided around the margins. The whole plant is so
strikingly distinct and handsome, even when out of
flower, that I confidently recommend it to all lovers
of hardy trees and shrubs. , It is a native of woods
in the northern part of Italy, where it is a somewhat
loial and rare plant. C. P. R.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

A HOUSE OF

BORDER CARNATIONS
AND MILD WEATHER.

Both young and old plants have
grown wonderfully this winter
in many gardens, but it is in
no sense assured that they will
be the better for it when the
flowering - time comes along.
The extraordinarily mUd and open weather
which prevailed for so protracted a period literally
forced progress when, in normal seasons, the
plants would be almost completely at rest.
Sparrows, if no one or nothing else, have been the
gainers, because the growths are sweeter and more
succulent than is customary, and the birds have
not failed to ascertam the fact. It is apparent
that the plants will be ruined by these feathered
pests unless threading is done promptly and
efficiently. Use very strong black thread, make a
perfect network round and above each plant, and
no further trouble will be experienced. When

TOMATO MAGNIFICENT, A SEEDLING
READER IN THE ISLE OF WIGHT.

place ; for while the bulk of the cultivated
species are dwarf trees, the plant under notice
forms a fine free-flowering shrub, quite distinct
in habit and general appearance from the rest
of the genus. It further has the valuable charac-
teristic of flowering about midsummer, when
the bulk of the hardy trees and shrubs are
over.

The stems are long, archingoutwards, and wreathed
with pure white flowers from top to bottom. These
are about two-thirds of an inch in diameter and
produced on short axillary clusters or leafy racemes,
the flower-stalks being tinted with red. The leaves

HINTS ON FORCING ASPARAGUS.

This much-esteemed vegetable can be forced most
easily. .A gentle hot-bed is the one essential, and
this should be made up of about
half fallen leaves and half horse-
manure. When enough has been
obtained of each for, say, a two-
light frame, which is, say, 9 feet
by 7i feet, the hot-bed should be
made about one and a-half feet
bigger all round, so that there is
room to walk around and cut the
heads, and this margin also allows
of room to increase the heat if it
should subside too quickly. The
manure and leaves should be turned
over several times to allow the
rank heat to escape, when the bed
ought to be made up evenly and
firmly. Then the lights should
be put on, and about three inches
or four inches of fine soil spread
evenly all over the surface of the
maniu-e, when the Asparagus roots
should be placed on as thickly as
possible. Another 3 inches of fine
soil should then be placed over the
crowns, or as much as will cover
them, be it 2 inches, 3 inches or
4 inches. The roots should be pro-
cured at least three years old ; if
older so much the better ; but if
one has to buy the roots, three
year old crowns must be obtained.
After planting keep the lights fairly
close, except for just a chink of air
at the back of the frame to let off
any vapour which may arise ; but
as soon as the heads appear, give
more air. Cut when about five
inches to six inches in length,
and if not enough for a dish,
the first cutting should be tied
up neatly and placed in tins
or saucers of warm water till
the next morning. It is impera-
tive that cutting should be done
as soon as the heads are ready,
as they quickly become drawn
and weak. As soon as the
Asparagus is finished, take out all the roots, burn
them, fork up the soil, and add a little fresh soil.
Leonardslee. W. A. Cook.

RAISED BY A

A NEW SEEDLING TOMATO.

Being a reader of The Garden, I am sending
you a photograph of a new seedling Tomato
named Magnificent, which I have raised. There
are fourteen plants in the border shown in the
photograph. It is a splendid cropper, especially
when grown in pots, the fruit being fleshy and
of good quahty.

Ryde, Isle 0/ Wight. J. A. Barkham.

January 25. 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

49

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO PLANT GRAPE VINES.

KvKV one \'inr- affords the amateur a great deal washed do\ni and blocking the waterway. Fibrous
of pleasure when grown in an ordinary greenhouse ' turves, chopped into pieces about four inches
with various kinds of pr>t plants. Very fine crops I square, should be used to btiild iip the border.

PREPARING INSIDE BORDERS AND PLANTING GRAPE VINES.

of Grapes are often obtained from such Vines,
and when an amateur has succeeded in growing
Vines satisfactorily in a greenhouse, he often
wishes to have a properly-constructed vinery in
which he can grow several varieties of Grapes.
The Vines may be planted any time from December
ti> May ; in the first months while the buds arc
dormant, and in the later months after the new
growth has commenced.

Good Positions (or Vineries. — In every case
some protection should be afforded against the
north and east winds ; trees, walls and belts of
shrubs a short distance away afford the necessary
shelter. Lean-to vineries must have a position facing
due south. A span-roofed vinery must have one end
facing the north and the other facing the south ;
then the Vines get the maximum amount of light
.•\nd sunshine. If it is intended to plant Vines in
existing houses, they should be trained under
the glass roof which receives the greatest amount
of sunshine.

The Drainage and the Border.— Although the

roots of \^ines require ample supplies of water,
stagnant water in the soil is very bad for them,
so that thorough drainage is essential. Where there
is a natural slope away from the vinery, it will
only be necessary to provide rough drainage
material under the border itself ; but in cases where
the ground is almost level, or the border is con-
structed below the surface, drain-pipes should be
laid from the bottom of the border to the nearest
and lowest outlet. Stones, clinkers, chalk and
broken bricks may be used to ensure the drainage
of the border. A total depth of o inches of this
material will be quite sufficient for the purpose.
On the hard material put down, whole tiu-ves should
be laid grass-side down before the main body of
soil is put in. These whole turves will last for
many years, and prevent the finer material being

To the chopped turves add one birrow-Ioad of old
mortar rubble and one peck of half-inrh bones
to eight bushels of the chopped turves. No other
kinds of manure should be added. .-^ border of
soil 2 feet deep will do niceh-, and, where con-
venient, it may be constructed piecemeal ; that is,
a strip about four feet wide the first year, and then
annual additions 2 feet wide until the whole space
is filled.

Planting the Vines. — Carefully turn out the
balls of soil and roots from the pots, and remove the
crocks and soil without damaging the roots. Spread
out the latter evenly, cover them with the finer
portions of the com.post, .\ ijiches deep, and give a
good watering.

Fig. A. — No. I shows a " planting " Vine turned
out of the pot ; No. 2, the soil removed from the
roots ; No. 3, the yoimg Vine rod cut back to about
fifteen inches of its base. No. 4 shows how the
stones and bricks should be laid to form the
dr.iinagc ; No. 5, the section of the drainage
material, namely. No. 6, the stones and bricks,
and No. 7, the layer of whole turves ; No. 8, the
body of the border.

Fig. B. — Nos. I, I, Vines planted in an
inside border, the roots being able to enter the
outside borders, Nos. 2, 2, through the arched
walls ; No. 3, stake to support the young rod to
the wires, No. 4. No. 5 shows how a Vine should
be planted in an outside border, the surface of the
latter being covered witli straw iji winter, and the
rod taken through the wall at No. 6 and trained
inside the greenhouse. No. 7 shows the wrong
way to make the hole through the wall, and No. 8
the right way. G. G.

HOW TO IMPROVE LAWNS.

It is a fact that lawns usually present a better
appearance in January and February than later
on when the cold east winds prevail. The grass
very rapidly recovers its freshness, however,
when the winds become warm and showers of rain
fall. Many lawns are improved by surface dressings
of rotted manure and such material as road scrap-
ings, which contain plenty of grit. Everyone
cannot procure such material, but they can pur-
chase some bone-meal, and this is one of the best
and most lasting of manures for a lawn. The
latter should be well brushed with a half-worn
broom on a dry day ; then sow the bone-meal
evenly, applying it at the rate of 40Z. per square
yard, afterwards w-ell rolling the grass. Do not
again roll or brush the lawn until a good shower of
rain has fallen ; then roll several times, taking the
roller in different directions each time before the
surface gets quite dry again. After an applica-
tion of bone-meal the grass grows freely, but not
coarse ; indeed, the bone-meal induces a much finer
growth. This surface-dressing of bone-meal must
be put on before the middle of February. B.

B

HOW TO MAKE AND PLANT INSIDE AND OUTSIDE VINE BORDERS.

50

THE GARDEN.

[January 25, 191 j.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Marguerites. — Those rooted in frames for bedding
purposes have, owing to the mild weather, made
rather more growth than usual. These should
be potted off at once into suitable-sized pots and
replaced in the frames, making sure that frost does
not reach them. After they get w'ell hold of the
new soil, takeout the point of each plant to encourage
a bushy growth.

Calceolarias also are very forward in growth ;
but as it is somewhat early to pot up or replant
these, all the air possible should be given them.
Any decaying foliage should be removed, and if the
plants are getting unduly long, take out the point
of each plant, then by the time they have broken
into growth they may be either potted up or
replanted in cold frames', giving them more room.

Melianthus major. — This I look upon as one
of our best subtropical bedding plants, and it
deserves every care to get good specimens for
planting out. Seeds sown in the autumn make
good plants, and should now be ready for potting
off into 4j-inch pots. They require very little
heat — just sufficient to keep them growing steadily.
Seed sown now will make nice little plants if pushed
along quickly, but they are not so effective early
in the season as the autumn-sown ones.

Abutilon Thompsonii. — These should be potted
off out of the stove pots into 3-inch pots, trans-
ferring them later into 4i-inch or 6-inch. To secure
good plants they should be grown on for a time
in an intermediate temperature, taking care they do
not get drawn by being placed too closely together,
or it will rob them of their tendency to make side
growths, which is so essential when they are used
as dot plants.

The Pleasure Grounds.
Azaleas. — Beds of Azaleas do much better after
they are well established if given a mulch of short
manure, or manure and leaves mixed, during the
winter months ; so if not already done, it may
be carried out at once.

Rhododendrons may be treated in the same way,
and if old hot-bed material is to hand, it will suit
them admirably.

Plants Under Glass.
Hydrangeas. — Select the most promising of last
season's rooted plants and place them in a house with
an intermediate temperature, and as soon as growth
commences they may be assisted with manure-
water. Being very gross feeders, they must not
be neglected if good heads of bloom are wanted.
Mme. E. MouUiere, one of the newer French
varieties, is a distinct acquisition, and may be had
in flower during the greater part of the summer.

SchizanthUS. — Pot these on into their flowering
pots as soon as they are fit, using a fairly rich
compost, a check at any time being very detri-
mental to the growth of these plants. Make a
sowing in 3-inch pots as a succession to the autumn-
sown plants. The retusus varieties in small pots
are particularly useful during the summer months
for grouping purposes.

Forcing Plants, such as Laburnums, Azaleas,
Viburnums, Pyrus and Wistaria, force easily and
well if placed indoors about this date, a temperature
of from 55° to 60°, with a gentle spraying overhead
two or three times each day, being all that is re-
quired to ensure success with them.

The Kitchen Garden.
Peas : Sowing Under Glass. — lor very early

work a sowmg of ftrst-earlv varieties should be made
at once, either in pots, boxes or turves. Also
for exhibition purposes it is advisable to sow a
box or two of the best varieties ; this ensures a
dish or two during June if they are required. To
ensure good germination and a stocky growth, a
temperature of 45° to 50° is sufficient.

Broad Beans. — These also may now be sown in
pots or boxes, and when the nature of the soil is such
that they cannot be sown outdoors in the late
autumn, this early sowmg in pots will give a crop
equally early.

Potatoes. — For planting in frames and for early
crops on warm borders, the tnoers should be spread
out in trays and placed in a slightly-heated house,
where they will soon break and make strong, robust

shoots, which will, when planted, soon make head-
way. Sharpe's Victor, Sharpe's Express and May
Queen are varieties that can be relied on for early
crops. During bad weather all seed Potatoes
should be picked out and placed in trays, as advised,
and it might not be out of place to mention that
Potatoes, more than any other crop, pay for
a change of seed.

Fruits Under Glass.

Figs. — For very early work, pot F'igs are probably
more in favour than those planted permanently
in the houses, as they can be rested somewhat
earlier in the autumn ; this being so, they respond
more readily to early forcing. After thoroughly
cleaning and top-dressing, if necessary, the pot trees
should be started in a temperature of 50° to 55°,
allowing a fair rise with what sun-heat there is
during the day. A fairly humid atmosphere
must be maintained by the use of the syringe,
but too much water at the root is not necessary
for a time.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Pruning Standard Trees. — .After completely

pruning the trees in the enclosed garden, those in the
outside orchard should be taken in hand. Young
trees do not need much done to them except the
removal of branches which may be crossing each
other, or that may be crowding up the centre of
the young trees.

Older Trees mav need more systematic treatment,
and should cold weather stop the ground work,
this is a matter that may well be taken in hand,
as old trees that are thinned out intelligently, with
due consideration to the style and habits of the
individual varieties, may be brought into such a
condition of fruitfulness that they will compare
very favourably with the younger trees.

Spraying. — After completing the above operations,
it is advisable to give all the trees a thorough spray-
ing with caustic alkali. This removes all moss
and lichen from the trees, as well as many of the
insects that take refuge under the loose bark.

Thomas Stevenson.
Wokurii Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Trenching and Digging.— The digging or
trenching of all open quarters should now be
completed as speedily as possible, so that the up-
turned soil may receive the pulverising effects of air
and frost. Deep cultivation is of even greater value
than liberal manuring. I would therefore recom-
mend that all ground should either be trenched or
bastard-trenched. By the former process the
soil is usually dug two spits deep, the whole mass
of soil being inverted. By the latter process the
soil is usually dug the same depth, but the top and
bottom spits are left in their relative positions.
The latter method is better in the case of soil
which has not been so deeply moved for several
years.

Manuring. — Both kind and quantity are often
a question of ways and means, but a certain amount
of humus should always be afforded, in order to
keep the roots cool and moist during hot, dry
weather. A more liberal supply should, of course,
be given to ground which is to be occupied by such
gross feeders as Dahlias, Hollyhocks, Sweet Peas
and Chrysanthemums than that on which the
lighter annuals are to be grown.

Sweet Peas. — Where these are to be grown in
rows and really good results are desired, trenches
should be dug' out and a good heavy dressing of
farmyard manure placed at the bottom of the
trench. A portion of the soil should be removed,
replacing it with some old Melon or Chrysanthemum
soil. A dressing of soot should be incorporated
with the top spit.

Dog's-Tooth Violets, where growing in beds
or masses, should receive a top-dressing of fresh
loam.

The Rose Garden.

Labelling. — Where necessary, labels should now
be renewed, and this raises the vexed question
as to which is the best label. I was very partial
to the Acme Label- Rest, which 1 regret is no longer
on the market. I now intend go in for the

Acme Rose Label, with raised letters. This can
be suspended with lead wire, which is easy of
manipulation when the branch from which the
label is suspended has to be cut away at pruning-
time.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Laburnums of considerable age have a knack
of splitting at the fork, which generally occurs
a few feet from the ground. If not too long
neglected, the evU can be remedied to some extent
by placing an iron band round the trunk imme-
diately under the fork. The band should be about
the length of the normal circumference of the
trunk, and the ends, each of which should have
an eye pierced in it, should be turned out at right
angles. A screw-bolt should then be inserted into
the two holes, and, the nut having been adjusted,
the band can be tightened up by means of a screw-
key. The wound, if still gaping, should be filled
up with cement.

Turfing. — If any slight depressions occur on
the lawns, the turf should be rolled back in
convenient breadths, the ground levelled up
firm, and the turf replaced and firmly beaten.
If the soil used for this purpose is much richer
than that of the lawn, the grass will grow stronger
than the rest and look patchy.

Plants Under Glass.

Gloxinias. — A portion of the stock should now
be started. Shake the tubers out and place them
in a shallow box among some flaky leaf-mould
and sand, only partially covering them. Place
in a brisk temperature and spray daily with slightly
tepid water. Last year's late seedlings which have
been kept slowly moving during the winter should
be potted on.

Achimenes. — .An early batch of these may now
be started. The stolons should be placed about
an inch apart on pans partly filled with light,
rich soil. They should then be slightly covered
with a little of the soil which has been passed
through a fine sieve. Place the pans in a brisk
temperature and keep the soil moderately moist.
Keep near the light when growth commences, as
they are easily drawn.

Fruits Under Glass.
Vines. — Tying down the shoots in the early
house will now be necessary, although present-day
cultivators wisely defer the work till a later stage
than our forefa'thers did, thereby lessening the
risk of snapping. But, even so, care must be
taken not to bend the shoot too far at the first
tying. It will still further reduce the risk of
snapping if the operation can be performed
on the afternoon of a sunny day, when the shoots
are more or less limp.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Planting of all kinds of hardy fruit trees is best
done immediately after the fall of the leaf. Where
it was impracticable to carry out the operation at
that season, it may be proceeded with now,
provided the weather is open. The aim of the
cultivator should be to keep the roots near the
surface, and the system of planting on the surface
and covering the roots with good soil (maiden
loam for preference) has much to recommend it.

Stocks and Grafts. — If not already done, all
grafts should be cut and their bases inserted in the
ground in a shaded position, in order to keep them
plump. Stocks should be headed back, also any
trees on which it is intended to work grafts.

The Kitchen Garden.

Horse-Radish, although possessing great vitality,
can only be produced in good condition by liberal
cultivation. Trench the ground from 2 feet to
3 feet deep, working in old decayed manure and
decayed vegetable refuse. Plant the upper portion
of the thongs with the tops pared off.

Cauliflower. — .A sowing of some early variety,
such as Snowball or Early Erfurt, should now be
made in a cool greenhouse temperature.

Brussels Sprouts. — Many people prefer sowing
now, as directed above for Cauhflower, instead of
sowing in the open in autumn. There are few
things that a gardener is so often disappointed with
as the seed of Brussels Sprouts ; hence the reason
why so many save their own seed.

Charles Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

January 25, 1913.J

THE GARDEN.

51

PRACTICAL HINTS ON
TABLE DECORATION.

1 UNDERSTAND there is much table decora-
lion stUJ carried out with mud for a
foundation, and yet more, perhaps, with
flowers arranged in receptacles of many
shapes and sizes. Whether the dainty
fashion of arranging a varied vegetation
on the cloth obtains to any great extent, I do not
know, but it has advantages that cannot be claimed
for other methods, the greatest of which, no doubt,
is that of causing no obstruction between the diners
on opposite sides of the table. At the same time
it yields to none in effectiveness, though it must
be allowed that in clumsy hands there is a certainty
of its being a shocking failure.

It must be allowed, too, that all kinds of flowers
cannot be used with success. Zonal Pelargoniums,
for instance, brilliant as they are at this season,
are far too modish unless trusses with only two or
three open pips are used. Carnations are also a
difficulty, though m their case they may be
employed in loosely - arranged sheaves. This
differentiation of ways of using particular flowers
is a feature of fiat decoration that must not be
overlooked in estimating its advantages. Each
flower has a way that it must be arranged in order
to bring out its beauty to the fullest extent. So
while we would make sheaves of Carnations and
emplov only a few, comparatively, Cypripediums,
such as C. insigne, would be arranged so as to exhibit
every part, the purple stems being in their way
as important as the " slippers." Carnation foliage
and buds are suitable for Carnations. Cypripedium
leaves are less to be preferred than narrow-leaved
Crotons for Cypripediums. Gloire de Lorraine
Begonias are exquisite if arranged in small pieces
with a little of their own foUage in very finely-
leaved sprays of Smilax. Lenten Roses, again,
go best in wreaths with a very few of the smallest
of their own leaves and the greenery on their
flower-heads with plenty of buds, and, perhaps,
a few pieces of the curiously-twisted Muelilenbeckia
complexa.

A very nice effect is produced with Plumbago
rosea in sprays, and Apera arundinacea. Humea
elegans is also suitable but not so dainty. A
limited number of kinds of Chrysanthemums
afford a desirable change, and of these the most
effective is undoubtedly Mary Richardson. Emily
Wells and Jessie ."Vngus are also good, and I grow
two Pompon Anemones without name, the one
pink, the other brov\'n, both of which are indis-
pensable. Usually these are all best arranged
in neat little bunches with selected foliage. Smilax,
Crotons and material of that kind should not be
used with them.

Quite a distinct effect is produced with Jasmmum
uudiflorum, with plenty of its thin shoots mixed
with the flowering and budded ones. Sometimes
a verv marked distinction may be effected by intro-
ducing a very few fine trails of Vinca minor.
Cyrabidiums are particularly desirable — Lowii,
tracyanum and chestnut brown ones — and all are
best used with the flowers detached from the stems.
For these perhaps there is nothing more suitable
for a setting than Crotons and Asparagus Sprengeri.
There are, of course, many more combinations
equally effective that can be produced from the
employment of Star-flowered Primulas, P. mala-
coides and Cyclamen of the right colours, deep
crimsons and salmon being the best. .\s a
rule, one need not be afraid to use strong colours.

For a while last autumn there was quite a run
on a deep crimson Lobelia of the cardinahs type.
It is much to be preferred that nothing should be
on the cloth with the exception of a little plate,
and underdo the amount of material rather than
have too much.

Most flowers will last quite fresh over the dinner-
hour if previously placed for several hours in
water — in some cases the stems merely ; in others,
e.g., Hellebores and Begonias, the flowers also are
immersed. Some flowers are of no further use
afterwards, but the majority are as valuable as
before for furnishing vases. Cypripediums which
did duty three weeks ago are still quite fresh, and,
indeed, the majority of the flowers are none the worse
for the ordeal. Plumbago rosea is one of the worst
to stand. Quite fresh, well-budded sprays only
should be used, and not be arranged till the last
possible moment. R. P. Brotherston.

SOME LITTLE - KNOWN
HARDY FLOWERS.

CALANDRINIAS AND LEWISIAS.

[Ill Answer to a Correspondent.]

C.\LANDRINIAS and Lewisias, closely-
allied plants, together form a class
of alpine flowers which deserve
and require the full care of all
admirers of rock gardens and the
gems which adorn them. The
difficulties they present in the way of culture
only whet the desire of the cultivator to succeed
with them, and he may well consider himself
happy who can manage to grow these beautiful
flowers for a term of years in the open. There
are about one hundred and forty species recognised
by botanists, the vast majority being classed
with the Calandrinias. The botanical distinctions
between the two genera are, however, so small
that the distinguishing point — that o' the open-
ing of the capsifle — is ofte.i unknown to the
botanist, with the result that several of the true
Lewisias are frequently included among the
Calandrinias by high authorities, so that it is diffi-
cult to separate them unless they have seeded in
one's ovm garden or have been fully distinguished
by competent botanists. The sole difference
between the two lies in the dehiscing or opening
of the seed-capsule. That of the Lewisias opens
from the base to the apex, the capsule of the
Calandrinias opening in the opposite way. With
such a small distinction it is unfortunate for garden
purposes that they have been separated.

A considerable proportion of the Calandrinias
can only be classed as annuals or biennials with
us, and seeds of only a few of these are ever offered
by British seedsmen. Like the perennials, they
have rather succulent foliage and beautiful flowers,
and, like them, they should have a dry, warm and
sunny position to do them justice. They are best
so\vn where they are to bloom, and may be treated
like other half-hardy annuals. If treated as
biennials, they should be kept under glass all
the winter and planted out in May after being
hardened off.

The perennials can also be sown in the open
where they are to bloom ; but it is desirable to
sow the seeds under glass in spring, planting the
seedlings out in the course of the summer, so
that they may become established before winter
if they are to be allowed to take their chances
of standing the seasons in the open. If not, it is
better to grow them on in pots for the first year.

keeping them near the light in a low house or frame
in summer and in a slightly-heated house in winter.
They are difficult to manage in a cold frame in
winter, and a minimum of heat, just sufficient to
exclude frost, is better than a higher degree.

The soil for the Calandrinias and Lewisias should
always be light, sandy and well drained, and the
writer has found the perennial species to thrive better
if jammed between two stones, on which the foliage
rests, unless planted in a moraine, probably the
best treatment of all. They do not seem to require
lime, nor are they averse to its presence in the soil.

Remarkably few of the annuals are available
in the form of seeds, and the few offered in cata-
logues are but little known in gardens. Even some
of the described species in works of reference are
not obtainable at all in the trade. Of those which
are offered by some specialists is included C. chro-
mantha, a most ornamental plant, growing about
three feet high, and bearing elegant sprays of little
Gv-psopliila-like pink flowers, which are followed
by small orange berries. C. discolor, another
annual or biennial species, is only about a foot high,
and affords a succession of large and handsome
rose-coloured flowers. These are, I believe, all
the annuals offered at the present time in Great
Britain. C. procumbens and C. umbellata have
also been cultivated.

One of the best known of the allied plants is
C. umbellata, a very beautiful subject for the rock •
garden. It is of rather shrubby habit, grows about
six inches high, and has large crimson flowers
with a tinge of magenta, which is a drawback to
its popularity. There is, however, a variety
called camea, with blooms of a pleasing flesh pink.
Unfortunately, C. umbellata cannot be relied upon
to stand our winters, although it may survive
for a short series of years. It is safer to treat it
as a biennial, though seeds sown early will give
plants which will flower in the autumn.

.A. charming Calandrinia called C. leeana has
been in cultivation, but appears diflicult to secure
at the present time. It makes a close tuft of
succulent foliage and bears a number of small
pink flowers. It is a very charming little subject,
and one which the writer retained for several years
on a flat terrace of a sunny rockery, facing full
south and in sandy soil, surfaced with fine gravel
to a depth of about an inch. Although its flowers
lack the size of some of its allies, they are so freely
borne that they more than compensate for their
smaller size. This species has stood for several
years in stiff soil also, but it is not a long-liver,
generally rotting off at the neck and requiring to
be replaced by seedlings or by cuttings, which are
difficult to strike except in gentle heat.

C. oppositifolia, which was figured in The
Garde.n of November 28, iSgi, is a very beautiful
plant, with larger leaves and flowers than those of
C. umbellata. The blooms are white, and those
who have access to this journal of the date men-
tioned will find a faithful representation of this
now scarce Calandrinia. It is a pleasing little
plant, which, like most of its aUies, will frequently
survive for a season or two, but is not a long-liver
in our climate. A dry, sunny spot should be chosen
for it.

In the notes by the late Mr. Dsmiel Dewar which
accompanied the illustration in The Garden,
mention is made of C. Gilliesii and C. setosa as so
closely related to C. umbellata as to be hardly
distinguishable from it. These do not at present
appear to be in cultivation, and C. Menziesii or
speciosa, rose purple, is apparently not now
offered.

52

THE GARDEN.

[January 25, 1913.

So far as I am aware, no other perennial Calan-
drinias, as distinct from the Lewisias, are at present
available, and we may now turn our attention to
the latter, which are of great beauty indeed, and
whose popularity in gardens is only limited by the
drawback which attaches to their allies — that of
short life. Th'^y are charming plants, requiring
the same treatn.ent as the Calandrinias, and giving,
where they are happy, handsome flowers and
pleasing plants in every way.

It was to The Garden that those interested
in the genus were first indebted for an illustration
of the charming Lewisia, then called Calandrinia
Tweedyi, as it was figured in these pages in
Vol. LIII., 1898, page 420, when the plant attracted
much attention. It is a lovely, dwarf, tufted
plant, with flowers which are red in the bud, and
of a pleasing flesh colour, edged with bronze,
when fully open. It has been several times figured
since then, and has been much admired wherever
seen. It is an Oregon plant, and is said to be
very plentiful in some parts. Like the others,
it was considered hardy, and stood the winter
for some years, even in Cheshire, as well as further
South. It is not, however, so reliable as was at
one time believed, and wet in winter is one of its
greatest enemies. , L. Tweedyi, or Tweediei as
it is often spelt, received an award of merit at
the Temple Show of 1901, when it was exhibited
by Messrs. Barr and Sons. An illustration v.-ill
be found in the Botanical Magazine, t. 7633-

.\nother acquisition among the Lewisias was pre-
sented at the Temple Show of 191 1 by Mr. G. Reuthe,
who received an award of merit for the lovely
Lewisia or Calandrinia Cotyledon, which is fittingly
said by the Journal of the Royal Horticultural
Society, Vol. XXXVII. . Part 2, where it is also
figured, to be " the most beautiful of the genus."
It was. I am informed, raised from seeds sent
from Klondyke, and is probably the most enduring
of the Lewisias in our climate, although winter wet
is its bane also. It has exquisite white flowers,
fully an inch across, with a distinct crimson
band along the centre of each petal. The pretty
leaves, in rosettes, are fleshy and green, tinged
with pink at the margins. But for the winter wet
this would be an assured favourite.

Following on this, last year Mr. Maurice
Prichard received an award of merit from
the floral committee of the Royal Horticultural
Society for L. Howellii, another charming plant,
with rosettes of succulent leaves, lanceolate in
shape and tinged with pink. The handsome
fiowers are of a kind of creamy apricot, marked
with lines of rose, and are borne in good umbels.
It is another great acquisition to our gardens,
but is no more to be relied upon than the
others.

The best known of the Lewisias is the old L.
rediviva, which is said to have again sprung into
growth after being in a herbarium for a long time,
and which has been in cultivation for a number of
years. It is fairly well known, its succulent leaves
in rosettes and its large flowers, which do not
expand until the leaves have withered, making it
a handsome plant, though it is marred by the
absence of leaves when in bloom. It should have
a warm, dry, sunny place, but some cultivators
give a good supply of moisture at the roots, while
keeping the neck of the plants dry. This also is
liable to injury from wet, and although living for
years, sometimes dies off unexpectedly from rot.
Another Lewisia or Calandrinia which is to be
met with in one or two hsts is nevadensis, but I
have had no experience of this species.

The favour with which these plants have been
received will doubtless lead to the introduction
of other beautiful Calandrinias and Lewisias,
and were it not for their want of reliability in
our climate, these lovely members of the great
Purslane family would be assured of permanent
favour. S. .^r.nott.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

the next winter, .\bout every three years will be
often enough to prune in the case of old-established
orchard standards. F. V\'. Ha.mmo.n'D.

Pilgrim's Hatch. Btcniwood.

THE THINNING OF FRUIT TREES.

HE believes in spraying a lot, but I
believe in keeping my trees thin."
This was a remark I overheard made
by oae individual to another in
the Royal Horticultural Hall on
the occasion of the last great show
of British-grown fruit. There is not the least
doubt ' that there is a tremendous lot of
truth in the idea underlying the above expres-
sion of the different growers' creeds. It will be a
very long while yet before we are able to dispense
with spraying as an aid to growing a good crop of
large, clean fruit — particularly of Apples — but it
is quite certain that such a task is rendered far
more easy if the trees are kept sufficiently open
so that all the sun and air possible is allowed to
circulate through the branches, rather than if choked
with growth so thick that light and air can hardly
penetrate at all. A casual examination of over-
crowded fruit trees during the fruiting season will
reveal the fact that all the fruit worth calling by
that name is on tlie outside of the tree, and nothing
at all is borne by the thick growth inside. The
work may be done at any time during the winter
months, though I prefer to do it early in
the autumn, just before the leaves fall, as
one can then tell better exactly how much to
cut out.

The first thing to do is to remove any
of the lower boughs which are too low, or
which have become stunted and unthrifty. Next,
all the small boughs and twigs which are encumber-
ing the main branches of the tree must be cut off,
taking careto cut right close home; otherwise, if
even the smallest snag be left, shoots will spring
from it and become a nuisance later. After this
has been done it will be found that a considerable
improvement has been effected in the appearance
of the tree, and it will now be possible to turn the
attention to the better outside growths, which are
perhaps growing across the tree or are ill-placed
according to' the general shape and symmetry of
the tree. In this work some caution must be
observed, removing smaller rather than larger pieces
at a time and the worst first. Wherever the saw
has been employed to remove a bough, the rough
edges of the wound must be pared round with a
knife to enable the bark to callus over and
protect it as soon as possible. With the same
end in view, all wounds above an inch in diameter
should be painted with a styptic of some sort,
to prevent the entrance of the spores of any of
the wound fungi till such time as the new bark has
completely healed the wounds over. A good thing
to use is a red or white lead paint made with pure
linseed oil, but without turpentine. This will be
found to set quite hard on the cut surface, and to
remain in good condition and without flaking off
for a long time. Stockholm tar can also be used,
but not gas-tar, unless the pruner is dealing with
verv old trees indeed. After a tree has been well
thinned, it is not necessary to repeat the process

M ISCELLAN EOUS.

BUYING MANURES ON ANALYSIS.

The Fertilizers and Feeding Stuffs Act was amended
in an important respect when the latest Act {1906)
was passed. Small purchasers of manures were
protected in the same way as larger buyers, who
stand, perhaps, in less need of it. Before this date
the provisions of the .'Kct did not apply to quantities
of less than tcwt., but this has, fortunately, been
amended, and buyers of any quantity have a right
to know the percentages of nitrogen and the other
two ingredients covered by the Act — phosphates
and potash. Another point worth noting under
the same .-^ct is that where such percentages are
mentioned in an artificially-made manure, the
purchaser now knows the actu.il, and not merely, as
heretofore, tlie minimum, amounts of the different
constituents. These provisions are valuable, for
cheap grade manures are often traps for the
unwary, and often very uneconomical, .attention
is drawn to organic matter, alkaiis or other sub-
stance not covered by the plain terms of the Act,
and which, therefore, should not be valued at all.
Low grade fish-manure, for example, should be
bought with gre.1t care, and statements that the
phosphates are " partially soluble " should not be
accepted. In a recent case submitted to the
writer, this description accompanied a singularly
poor manure, in which attention was called to the
" organic matter," and a high price was charged,
quite out of proportion to the percentages of the
ingredients which possessed a marketable value.

HOW CONTACT INSECTICIDES KILL.

iNSEcnciDES kill Ml vari'ius ways, and it is supposed
that those to which the .ibove term has been given
do so by causing siiffocati.m Little is known,
however, about the way in which such insecticides
do their work, and experiments have shoivn how
very difficult it is to kill manv insects in a reasonable
time merely by excluding air. The agricultural
authorities at Michigan College. U.S.A., have been
putting this to the test, and have come to the con-
clusion that death must be due to another cause,
because insecticides like kerosene and gasolene
kill quickly, and this points to something more
than a stopping up of the breathing apparatus.
Several insecticides, too, were found to be as effective
in a state of vapour as in the liquid form, which
confirms these conclusions. The results of these
experiments, however, still seem to show a con-
nection between the breathing apparatus and
death, because it appears that the absorption
of oxygen is in some way interfered with by
such agents as creolin and pyrethrum. This
seems to account for their speedy action,
for in the form of vapour these insecticides
were found to penetrate the chitine far more
quickly than liquid or powder could do. For
rapid action, then, vapour seems better than

spravins.

G. T.

Cat.ilooijes Received.

SIt<ssrs. Fisher, Son and Sibray, I/iiaited, Handsworth,

Sheffield ; Seeds.
.Messrs. Edraondson Brothers, Dublin : Seeds.
Sli'Sisrs. Kent and Brydon, DarUngton : Seeds,
lles-irs. W. .^tlce Burpee and Co., Philadelphia : Seeds.

GARDEN.

-^gp-

^i:^^^

No. 2150.— Vol. LXXVII.

February i, 1913.

CONTENTS.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

-Votes ow ,the Week 53
Correspondence
Plants and the mild

weather .54 i

Plants flowering on

..54

January 20
Workers Among
Flowers

.Major C. C. Hurst . .
I'orthcoraini^ events ..
liAUDESixo Acrostics
Phizes for the Best

UOOK Gardens
Some FuTtTREs for the

sweet Pea
Sweet Pea Eric Harvey
Sweet Pe.\s as Bed-

Dixa Plants . .
Sweet Peas Rktert-

i!«otothe Wild Type 57
Rece.vt Improvements

IN SWEET Peas . . 57
How I Grew sweet Peas

AT Sutton Green..
Colooped Plate

Four good Sweet Peas
riosE Garden

Some of the newer
decorative Roses . .

THE

56
56

56

I'RErS AND .SRHUBS

A beautiful Daisy

Bush 59

The Swamp Honey-
suckle 59

Seasonable Notes on

Sweet Peas . . . . 60

New and Rare Plants 00

New Orchids . . 60

Gardening for Beginners

How to raise early

vegetahles in frames 61
Cleaning the leaves of
plants in houses . . 61
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 62

For Northern par-
dens 62

Plants Flowering Out op
Season
Some iMterestins:

records 83

Classification of

Sweet Peas . . . . 63
The b&st Sweet Peas . . 64
.answers to Corre-
spondents
Flower garden . . . . 64
Trees and shrubs . . 64

IIiIiOSTRATIONS.

.Mr. C. F. Faulkner distributing Sweet Peas .. .. 54

Major 0. C. Hur^t, F.L.S 55

Sweet Pea Eric Harvey 56

.\ bed of unslaked Sweet Peas 57

Four good Sweet Peas Coloured jdate

.\ little-icnown Australian Daisy Bush 58

I'll • new Rose Mrs, Charles Russell 59

The lieautiful Swamp Honeysuckle 60

How to raise early vegetables in frames 61

Messrs. Sutton and Sons' exhibit of Sweet Peas . . 63

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Kditar wdcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he mil not be responsible" for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he mil endeat^our to return non-accepted
contributions.

.!.« regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
iisks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or oumer of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be talcen as evid'^nce that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden icill alone
be recognised as acceptance.

O^ces : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

Double Daisies in Pots. — The owner of an
unhealed greenhouse might derive considerable
pleasure from now onwards from a few potfuis of
double Daisies. .Mthough these are not everyone's
flower, they are highly appreciated by many.
Plants lifted from the outdoor garden now witii
good balls of soil and potted up into 5-inch pots
will scarcely notice the disturbance, and if placed
in a cool greenhouse will quickly give a beautiful
display of flowers. More use should be made of
hardy flowers in the cold greenhouse, instead of
attempting to grow plants which need a com-
paratively high temperature to bring them to
perfection.

The Tamarix. — Owing to the mildness of the
season the young buds on these plants are becoming
very prominent. The Tamarix is a splendid plant
for growing on e.xposed sandy banks in or near
gardens by the sea. We know of many plots of
large size now well covered with the plants where
it would be difficult to establish other kinds. We
know, also, of many plants whose roots are covered
with sea water at high tide, and the growth of these,
too, is very satisfactory. Cuttings soon root
if inserted in a sandy compost under a hand-light
or in an ordinary frame early in spring.

Planting Fruit Trees in Spring. — .Although

November is the ideal month for planting fruit
trees, and the work is always best done then when
possible, it often happens that for some reason or
other the trees cannot be put in at that time.
We are often asked whether it is impossible to plant
fruit trees or bushes at any other time, and un-
hesitatingly answer " No." We have on many occa-
sions planted fruit trees in February and the early
days of March, and such trees have invariably
done well. The soil must not, of course, be frozen
hard nor sodden with water. Plant in November
if you can ; if not, do the work during open
weather in February.

Pensions for Aged and Infirm Gardeners. —

On another page we give particulars ut the annual
election of aged and infirm gardeners, or the widows
of gardeners, to the funds of the Gardeners' Royal
Benevolent Institution. During the seventy-four
years the Institution has been in existence it has
brightened the lives of a vast number of those
who, through no fault of their own, have fallen on
evil times. We would remind our readers that
these are men, or the widows of men, who have in
their earlier and happier days done so much to
give us the flowers and fruits that we now enjoy.
What a pension of £20 a year means to these un-
fortunate and destitute people only the committee
of the Institution perhaps know. We urge those
of our readers who have enough and to spare to
send a donation towards the funds to the secretary,
Mr. G. J. Ingram, 72, Victoria Street, Westminster.
By so doing they will have the satisfaction of
knowing that they are bringing some ray of hope to

those who in the past have given of their best to
brighten the lives of others.
Mimosa in the London Markets. — During the

last two or three ye.irs the species of .\cacia sent
from the South of France to the London markets
at this season has been changed. A few years
ago the Silver Wattle, .\cacia dealbata, was practi-
cally the only one sold as Mimosa, but it has now
been almost Superseded by A. baileyana. The
latter is the more graceful of the two in a cut state,
the smaller and softer glaucous, deeplv-serrated
leaves and the long racemes of globular, bright
yellow flower-heads making an ideal spray for
vases. It would be interesting to know why the
growers have almost dropped the cultivation of
.\. dealbata for this new-comer.
A Beautiful Early-Flowering Crocus. — During

the last few wfcks the charming little Crocus
Sieberi has been giving us its rich lavender blue
flowers in the outdoor garden, but owing to the
simless, damp weather that has prevailed, they
have seldom got beyond the balloon or unopened
stage. This is unfortunate, because much of the
beauty of this Crocus lies in its rich orange stig-
mata, which can only be seen when the flowers are
fully opened. A few days ago we potted up a
few plants in some damp fibre and moss and took
them into a warm room, where the flowers quickly
expanded and revealed to the full their beautiful
interiors. We pass on the hint to others who mav
care to try it.

An Effective Grouping. — A pretty effect is
now to be seen in the Temperate House at Kew
by the bright red flowers of Cestruin elegans and
the yellow blossoms of Acacia verticillata, the
two plants growing side by side and being covered
with flowers, .\lthough it is impossible, except
in those establishments where there are large winter
gardens, to allow the plants to develop so freely
as in the case referred to, a similar effect on a reduced
scale can be produced by most people who possess
a moderate-sized greenhouse, for both plants are
easily grown, while other species of Acacia, such
as A. armata or A. Drummondii, both of which
thrive excellently in pots, might be substituted.

An Early-Flowering Almond.^lt is not

unusual to see flowers on the Chinese Prunus
davidiana towards the middle or end of January,
but it can have rarely happened that a variety of
P. Amygdalus has been in full flower during the
third week of January, yet such was the case this
year. The variety in question is persicoides,
a form which usually blossoms early in or towards
the middle of March, a fortnight or so in advance
of the type. Its precocity this winter, however,
is remarkable, and is doubtless due to the exceed-
ingly mild winter which has been experienced
m the South of England. The tree specially noted
is growing in an enclosure surrounding the flag-
staff at Kew. while another tree, similarly flowered,
was seen about the same time in the churchvard
at Kew.

54

THE GARDEN.

[February i, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Plants and the Mild Weather.— I imagine the
abnormal condition of vegetation is due to the hard
frost in November, which gave the necessary check
to vegetation, and to the nice weather that followed.
There is here a Sycamore in full leaf, and a hedge
of Mahonia Aquifolia has been in flower since the
New Year, while Montbretias, which were very
late in flowering last year, already have shoots
several inches in length. Flowering Currants are
also far in advance of a normal season. That the
weather of last April and May could affect these,
as Mr. Bowles seems to think, is scarcely to be
credited.^R. P. Brothekston, Tyninghame, Pres-
tonkirk, N.B.

Rose Sarah Bernhardt.— May I add a contri-
bution to the notes which have appeared in your
columns relative to this Rose ? I was a little sur-
prised that Mr. Molyneux should have included it
in his list of new Roses, seeing it was raised by

In the first place, it is at least doubtful whether
it is wise to transplant this Iris in spring. Growth
obviously begins when the soil becomes thoroughly
wet in autumn, and continues, except for inter-
ruptions by hard frost, until midsummer. As a
general rule, it may be said that Irises should be
transplanted while growth is active and, if possible,
when growth first becomes active. In the case of
I. unguicularis, this usually begins early in Sep-
tember, and I am inclined to think that this is the
best period at which to transplant this Iris. Pro-
vided the plants are placed close to the foot of a
warm, sunny wall in somewhat poor, light, well-
drained soil, the number of flowers produced seems
to depend on the weather, although it has been a
surprise to find that plants are blooming fairly well
this winter in spite of the lack of sun in the latter part
of the summer. Last winter, when the flower-buds
had formed in vast numbers during the long summer
drought, the majority of them were killed by hard
frosts before they had had time to develop, and
when their presence could only be detected by
dissecting the base of the growths. If the plants
can be given a sunny position in suitable soil close

MR. C. F. FAULKNER Uis, i Ki BU UNO SPRAY
FRONT OF THE TOWN

M. Dubreuil in 1907 and sent out in rgoS. I was
first attracted to it by seeing fine bushes of the
variety in Messrs. Paul and Son's nursery in 1909.
The following autumn we had a plant or two, and
in 1910, perceiving it to be a valuable addition
to the decorative section and superior to Bardou
Job, we increased our stock, and have grown and
exhibited it ever since. Mr. Molyneux classes it
as a pillar Rose. It may be so in his climate,
but not m ours. It flowers from the top of the
shoot, not the laterals, and should be moderately
pruned, leaving the shoots about three feet high.
With us it is a good bush Rose, flowering best in
a dry season, early and late. It may be best
described as a serai-single Horace Vemet, producing
some six to a dozen blooms on a stem. — Joseph
H. Pemberton.
' Treatment of Iris unguicularis.— A note on

Iris unguicularis (stylosa) in The Garden, page 2,
issue January 4, suggested that transplantation
in spring might induce clumps of this Iris which
had remained flowerless to produce a crop of blooms.

S AND BUTTONHOLES OF SWEET TEAS IN
HALL, MANCHESTER.

to the foot of a greenhouse wall, where they reap
the benefit of warm pipes on the other side of
the wall, they seldom or never fail to produce their
crop of flowers. — W. R. Dvkes, Charterhouse,
Godalming.

Plants Flowering on January 20.— The list below
represents plants in flower on January 20 in
the gardens at Cann House, most of which are not
due to bloom for many weeks. I have purposely
omitted many commoner shrubs, and have only
included the rarer species. I should like to add
that Primula Winteri, a recent introduction ftrom
the Himalayas, is making a brave show in the open.
Aotus gracillima, Azara microphylla, Akebia
lobata, Berberis Bealii, Bauera rubioides. Brachy-
sema Drummondii, Boronia megastigma. Camellia
japonica, Clematis balearica, Ceanothus rigidus,
Cytisus prsecox, Ceanothus Veitchii, Conius Mas
variegata, Correa magnifica, C. alba, C. ventricosa,
C. curiosa, C. cardinalis, Daphne Genkwa, D.
blagayana, Edgworthia chrysantha. Erica australis
and six other species, Grevillea sulphurea, Gnidia

carinata, Hymenanthera crassifolia, Jasminum
primulinum, Lonicera syringantha, Lithospermum
prostratum Heavenly Blue, Loropetalum chinensis,
Libonia floribunda, Medicago arborea, Prunus
Pissardii, P. davidiana, Pyrus nivalis, P. Maulei
Sargentii, Polygala Chamaebuxus and the variety
alba, P. dalmaseanum, Pieris floribunda, Ribes
speciosus, Rubus speciosus, Sycopsis sinensis,
Veronica macrocarpa and Viburnum rhytido-
phyllum. — H. W. Grigg, Cann House, Crown Hill,
South Devon.

Old Cyclamen Plants. — It is the general prac-
tice in cultivating Cyclamen persicum to treat it
as an annual, and really well it succeeds managed
in that way ; but one occasionally comes across
plants several years old which are also a success.
In the gardens at Corhampton House, not far
from where I write, Mr. Cawte, the gardener, has
a fine batch of plants now coming into flower that
are several years old, and remarkably well they
promise, being furnished with large, healthy leaves,
and throwing up a quantity of reaUy fine flowers.
The treatment the plants receive after flowering
is, they are gradually dried off, stood at the foot
of a north wall, and, when they show signs of new
growth in July or August, the old soil is shaken off
the roots, and the corms are freshly potted in a
fairly rich compost, stood in a cold frame for a
time, carefully watered, daily sjTinged, and, as
the autumn comes along, they are removed to a
shelf close to the glass in a cool greenhouse. — E.
MoLYNEUx, Swanmore Park, Hants.

After reading the note on " Old Cyclamen

Plants" on page 29, issue January rS, I feel
tempted to write you my experience with them.
When taking charge of these gardens four years
ago there was a batch of nearly two dozen plants,,
all from about ten to fifteen years old, I should
think. The best had a dozen or so blooms. As soon
as the plants had finished flowering they were
put into a frame in full sun, watered until the
foliage began to turn yellow, then dried off until
some corms shrivelled. In August all the soil was
shaken off, and they were potted up in a good
mixture of loam, leaf-soil, sand and road scrapings,,
put back into the frame again, kept fairly close
and shaded, and we syringed between the pots twice
daily. In October we put them into a house with a
temperature of 45° to 50° and carefully watered!
them. The next spring I selected fifteen of the
finest plants. The best of these had 120 flowers,
the smallest had eighty. — Albert James, The-
Gardens, Wins/ord Hall, Great Yarmouth.

A Sweet Pea Enthusiast.— Among those who
take a particula-ly keen interest in Sweet Peas is
Mr. C. F. Faulkner of Clevelands, Park Avenue,
Hale, Cheshire. For fourteen years Mr. Faulkner
has grown Sweet Peas extensively, and each year
has set himself the laudable task of distributing,
sprays and buttonholes of the flowers at garden^
fetes, crippled children's picnics and similar
functions. In the accompanying illustration he
is seen distributing Sweet Peas in front of the
Town Hall, Manchester, on the occasion of the
picnic arranged for members of his firm last summer..
Mr. Faulkner is a provincial corresponding member
of the committee of the National Sweet Pea Society,,
a past president of the Altrincham and District
Chrysanthemum Society and the Altrincham
Gardeners' Mutual Improvement Society, as well
as a patron of several other horticultural societies-
in the district. He is also a vice-president of the
National Auricula and Primula Society (Northernj
Section).— W. J. W. ;!,, '^^ ,

February i, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

55

WORKERS AMONG THE
FLOWERS.

MAJOR C. C. HURST.

HORTICULTURE of to-day owes not
a little to the investigations of
scientific men, who may legitimately
be regarded as workers among the
flowers. It is doubtful whether the
average horticulturist realises the
immense amount of sound investigation into plant-
life that Major C. C. Hurst, whose portrait it is a
pleasure to publish in this issue, has done. As
Director of the Burbage Experimental Station at
Hinckley, Leicestershire, Major Hurst had charge
last year, and has charge this year, of the National
Sweet Pea Society's trials, and we think it appro-
priate to give some particulars concerning him
in this our Special Sweet Pea Number.

Apart from his work among Sweet Peas, evidence
of which is clearly set forth in the admirable paper
read by him at the National Sweet Pea Society's
Conference last year, and now published in the
Society's " Annual," Major Hurst has done a vast
amount of work among flowers. Of these, mention
may be made of Orchids, Roses, Antirrhinums,
Rhododendrons, Berberises and Daffodils, while
the more utihtarian fruits and vegetables have not
escaped his active attention. Indeed, it is to
memoirs and articles of his which have appeared from
time to time in the publications issued by the
Royal Horticultiural Society, Linnean Society,
Royal Society and the British Association, that
we are indebted for much new information about
plant and animal life in general. We mention
animal-life because this has been almost, if not quite,
as deeply investigated by him. With Mr. R. A.
Rolfe of Kew, Major Hurst is responsible for the
Orchid Stud Book, the only one of its kind ever
compiled.

In other directions our worker among the flowers
has distinguished himself. He is a Member of
the Advisory Council on Horse-breeding to the
Board of Agriculture and Scientific Adviser to its
Standing Committee, a Fellow of the Linnean
Society, Member of the Scientific Committee of the
Royal HorticiJtural Society, and Correspondent
of the Carnegie Institute of Experimental Evolu-
tion, Washington, U.S.A. Before devoting him-
self entirely to scientific research. Major Hurst
served in the 4th and 5th BattaUons of the
Leicestershire Regiment, and was for ten
years on the Stafi as an Instructor of Signalling,
and Brigade and Divisional Signalling Officer.
He retired with the rank of Major, and is now in
the Reserve of Officers. That Peace will enable him
to carry on his valuable work of investigation into
plant-hfe is the earnest desire of all who are privi-
leged to know him.

GARDENING ACROSTICS.

Below will be found acrostic No. 8, which finishes
the scries. The solution to No. 7, which appeared
last week, will be given in our next issue, and the
solution to No. 8; together with the names of those
who have correctly solved Nos. 7 and 8, and the
names of the prize-winners, will appear in our issue
dated February 15.

DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. S.

My firsts. — The surnames of two men who have
added much to our knowledge of plant biology.

My lasts. — Their " special line."

Note. — Arrange as usual ; then reverse the
letters of the evens.

1. The initials of the member of the Elephant's

Trunk family that has the most character-
istic seed-vessels.

2. The maker of Versailles.

3. I end in smoke.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

February 3. — National Chrysanthemum Society's
Annual Meeting.

February 4. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhi-
bition and Meeting. Lectmre at 3 p.m. by Mr.
C. F. Ball on " Plant-hunting in Bulgaria." Horti-
cultural Club's Annual Meeting and Dinner.
Scottish Horticultural Association's Meeting.

February 7. — Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fimd
Annual Meeting and Election of Orphans at
Simpson's Restaurant, Strand, at 3 p.m.

February 10. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Meeting.

Solutions must be sent so as to reach the Editor
at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London.
W.C, not later than February 8. Mark the envelope
"Acrostic" on the upper left-hand corner.

SOLUTION AND NOTES OF

ACROSTIC No. 6.

" .ANTHER— STAMEN '• (inverted).

• I. .\ 'SSIMILATIO N

t 2. N ERIN E

t 3. T WICKENHA M

§ 4. H A-H A

II 5. E AT I T

K 6. R ANUNCULU S

• By means of the chlorophyll in the leaves car-
bonic acid gas is made into a plant food, t The
blooms of Nerines sparkle in sunlight as if covered
witl diamond dust. { See Johnson's " History
of Gardening," page 261. § Probably a sunk
fence was first made by Bridgeman, the landscape
gardener. One derivation of the name is from the
surprises such a fence created. Amhurst's " History
of Gardening in England," page 263. || When fully
ripe a Kirke Plum has a delicious bloom upon it.
Weathers' " Guide to Garden Plants," page 1073.
t The Ranunculus was in high favour abotit 1800.
A list of that period contained about eight hundred
varieties. See Phillips' " Flora Historica," imder
" Ranimculus."

SOLVERS OF ACROSTIC No. 5.

Although a nimiber of readers succeeded in
getting most of the points right in No. 5, no one
sent in a correct solution as published last week.
We would remind readers that prizes will be
awarded to those who correctly solve the greatest
number.

*,* The names 0/ those who have correctly solved
No. 6 will be given next week.

PRIZES FOR THE BEST
ROCK GARDENS.

MAJOR C. C. HURST, F.L.S.

4. An EngUsh name for an old herb — but does

it make it or stop it ?

5. A celebrated botanist-artist not unknown to

C. J. Trew.

6. I am a herb with royalty in my name and

sacredness ui my use.

7. Sometimes pictured in old gardening books, I

was most useful in filling up gaps in beds.

8. " O Flowers,

That never will in other Climate grow !

Who now shall rear you to the Sun, or rank
Your Tribes ? "

Whose lament is this ?

9. One of the most famous of all Continental

nurserymen who lived in the last century.
I.:. '■ Le Jardin de HoUande " — what am I in
English ?

11. A many-coloured Japanese hybrid — magnifi-

cent at Wisley.

12. Henry VIII. began to make the gardens

of . . .

" Which no equal has in art or fame."

13. My art once filled English gardens.

To further stimulate the interest that is now being
taken in rock gardens, the Proprietors of The
Garden offer the followmg prizes for three photo-
graphs of a rock garden, or portions of a rock
garden :

First Prize : Five Guineas, or a Silver Cup of
that value.

Second prize : Two Guineas, or Books of that
value.

Third prize : One Guinea.

The competition is open only to the actual
owner of the rock garden, or to liis or her gardener.
The object is to encourage good rock gardening,
and preference will, therefore, be given to those
rock gardens which show originality in design, and
where the plants depicted are well grown. It
should be distinctly understood that awards will
be made to the best rock gardens, and not neces-
sarily to the best photographs. The photographs
need not be taken by the competitor, who must,
however, in such cases have the written consent
of the photographer for their reproduction in The
Garden.

For rules governing the competition will readers
please see our issue dated February 4.

.\11 photographs must be sent to arrive at
The Garden Offices, 20, Tavistock Street, Strand,
W.C, not later than June i. 1913-

56

THE GARDEN.

[February i, 1913.

SOME FUTURES FOR THE
SWEET PEA.

IT would be an easier task to write about the
importunities of editors than about Sweet
Peas. I would certainly have something
to say then, both from the victim's and
also from the paper's point of view. A
successful importunate editor must be
worth his weight in golp (provided only he impor-
tunes the right people. I feel badly equipped to
write just now on Sweet Peas. For one thing,
I did not visit any Sweet Pea shows last year
except our own local one at
Whitchurch (Salop) and a parti-
cularly pleasing " at home exhibi-
tion " of Dr. Phillips at Malpas-
Again, the catalogues and books
devoted either wholly or in part
to thi= one flower are legion, not
to mention the many notes and
articles in the papers, so that it is
almost beyond the bounds of
human possibility to say anything
new about them. And yet I
have promised to write, and I do
not want to take away from the
weight of the Editor, so I feel a
little nervous in putting pen to
paper to record these few random
thoughts about the future.

Bush Sweet Peas. — I used to
grow these once upon a time, and
I found them most useful for
supplying the greenery in my
Sweet Pea vases. It has since
occurred to me that this 2-feet
to 3-feet type might be developed,
and that if good shaped and many
flowers oould be put upon them,
they would be verj' valuable for
border decoration.

Scent. — I should like to see a
class for fragrant varieties intro-
duced at some shows. I think
I am quite right in saying that
in the evolution of the modern
Sweet Pea fragrance has suffered
somewhat severely. Mother o'
Pearl is my ideal in this respect.
You can always smell it when
you pass it by in the garden.
Lead me blindfolded down a row
of yard patches of different kinds,
and 1 would always know when
I came to it. Now, why not a
class for fragrance ? It wants
encoiuragement.

Trained Sweet Peas.—

Schedule - makers are doubtless
on the look-out for new ideas,
the late chairman of our committee must be
sighing for new worlds to conquer. I expect he
saw some wonderful examples of trained Chry-
santhemums in Paris, as I did at Liverpool last
autumn. Well, why not try if something in this
way could not be done with the Sweet Pea ? The
results might be stiff, but they would be, like the
Chrysanthemum plants, a triumph over difficul-
ties. Here is my suggestion : Class so-and-so,
for the best balloon-trained plant (or plants) of
Sweet Peas growing in an 8-inch or lo-inch
pot.

Sweet Pea " At Homes." — It struck me that
this is a capital idea, and one that might be carried
out by a good many people. It would provide
an object for high-class cultivation, and also g.ve
much pleasure to one's friends and acquaintances.
A mass of one flower is always effective, and it
is surprising what an interest the comparing of
one sort with another is when a good many are
brought to one's notice. Two friends might join
forces in growing and share the expenses of the
day very well. The requisites are a tent and
good staging ; or a large room would do instead
of the former. A band, or music of some description,
would, of course, be an additional attraction.

There is nothing more stimulating to tlie true
lover of a flower than to see from time to time
attainments to which he, too, one day hopes to
aspire. Joseph Jacob.

SWEET PEA ERIC HARVEY.

It is for table decoration and garden effect that this
comparatively new variety is especially commended.
The flowers are of average size, nicely waved and
gracefully arranged on the flower-stems. In colour,
the back of the standard is of a pleasing soft rose,
while the front view presents a Picotee marking
on a white ground. This variety, raised a few years
ago by Mr. W. J. Unwin, Histon,
Cambs, is now quite fixed, and is
certainly one of the best garden
Sweet Peas of recent introduction.

SWEET PEAS AS
BEDDING PLANTS.

D

SWEET PEA ERIC HARVEY, A BEAUTIFUL X'ARIETY FOR GARDEN
AND HOUSE DECORATION.

I am sure

Later in the day, when the " at home " is over,
the smaller people of the neighbourhood might be
invited to look round, and I am sure they would
appreciate the sight.

Local Shows. — We have had one at Whitchurch
for two years, and we are going to have a third
this year. My experience tells me two things ;
First, that there must be a hard-and-fast radius
line to ensure the competition being truly local ;
and, secondly, that there should be, if at all possible,
one open class with sufficiently valuable prizes to
attract a few of the tip-top growers like Mr. T.
Jones, Mr. Usher, Mr. Stevenson and Mr. Prophet.

URING recent years the
cultivation of Sweet
Peas for garden
decoration has been
carried out in many
F ways, and in some a
great deal of ingenuity has been
displayed. With such a free-flower-
ing and easily-grown annual it is
not difficult to understand the
desire of the amateur to put it to as
many uses as possible ; but we do
not ever remember seeing it used
as a bedding plant. We refer, of
course, to the Sweet Pea proper,
and not the Cupid forms of it.
Wlien visiting a market-garden
establishment in a country district
last summer, we were surprised
to come across a large bed of Sweet
Peas that were grown primarily for
providing cut flowers, but which
had, by some means or other
escaped being staked. The result
was that the plants had become
procumbent and the growths had
intertwined, so that the whole made
one glorious bed of fragrant,
delicately - poised blossoms. No
doubt Sweet Pea enthusiasts would
term this bad cultivation, but
with this we should not agree.
It is unconventional, but the
effect was most pleasing. The
flowers were of good size and
quality, and the illustration
'u page 57 will give a slight
idea of the effect. The owner
informed us that immense quantities of good blooms
had been cut from the bed, and that the plants
had been in good and floriferous condition for
many weeks.

Those who have large lawn beds to fill, and who
are looking out for a cheap and unique method
of doing so, might well sow or plant them with
Sweet Peas on the lines suggested in the illustra-
tion. If desired, a good pillar could be formed
as a centre-piece by providing supports in the
form of sticks or ^Sunplicitas Netting for the plants
there to scramble over. The only drawback to grow-
ing Sweet Peas in beds in this way is the difficulty

February i, 1913.]

THE GAEDEN.

57

ill getting at all the newly-formed seed-pods to
remove them, an essential point where continuity
of flowering is desired ; but this can he overcome
with a little care. The bed illustrated was about
nine feet wide, and, by carefully placing one foot
between the haulm, the centre plants could be
reached in comfort.

SWEET PEAS REVERTING
TO THE WILD TYPE.

real clearing up of the mystery. The wild Sweet
Pea, being a native of Sicily, was evidently visited
by some insect (possibly the leaf-cutting bee,
very common in those parts), which carried the pollen
from the wild to the cultivated varieties, and, the
old purple bicolor being dominant over all other
colours, it was only natural that all flowers thus
cross-fertilised should produce the purple bicolor.
Lang/ord, Bristol. Vernon T. Hill.

T

A

[ HOSE who had the privilege of hear-
ing Major Hurst's interesting paper at
the annual conference of the National
Sweet Pea Society on rogues in Sweet
Peas must have been impressed by the
fact that the greater knowledge of
Mendelism as applied to the hybridisation of Sweet
Peas has been of the greatest assistance, not only What
to the actual raiser, but has provided a satisfactory scarlets
explanation of many curious and
seemingly inexpUcable facts that have
occurred in many gardens.

Some readers may recall a discussion
a few years ago concerning a state-
ment that seeds of Sweet Peas pur-
chased from one of our best known
English seedsmen had reverted to the
wild purple bicolor in Sicily and
-Madeira

One of these cases was particularly
interesting to the writer, as it hap-
pened in his mother's garden at
Taormina in Sicily. Although this
island is the home of the wild Sweet
Pea, our modern, highly-cultivated
production was there practically un-
known at that time. With up-to-date
methods of cultivation and the natural
climatic advantages these plants from
imported seed grew to great perfection,
producing particularly line blooms,
and were the object of much admira-
tion and curiosity in the surrounding
neighbourhood. Therefore, great must
have been the disappointment of the
owner, having carefully saved the seeds
of each variety separately, to find, the
following year, haulm and growth
giving promise of equally good results,
that the early blooms (the wild
Pea of Sicily blooms earUer than
our Pea) were merely a slightly-improved form of
the purple bicolor. Irritated at the disappoint-
ment, she did not wait for any more to blossom,
hut ordered them all to be pulled up. Thus did
slie destroy what might have been not only the
elucidation of the mystery, but further possible
proofs of the working of the theory of Mendelism,
and the production of new varieties had she saved
the seeds of these plants.

Many of our experts were consulted, and the sub-
ject was referred to at the Sweet Pea Conference
in igio, but it was considered hardly credible,
and the general feeling was either that the state-
ment was inaccurate or the gardener was dishonest.
-As may be well understood, these explanations (!)
were received with natural indignation, and the sub-
ject has since been carefully avoided in the family.

Major Hurst's reply to Mr. Sydenham's question,
why Sweet Peas, when saved in Sicily or Madeira,
reverted to the wild purple, was awaited with great
interest by those who had heard of similar incidents
in those countries. His lucid explanation was a

RECENT IMPROVEMENTS IN
SWEET PEAS.

this season the Sweet Pea lover usually
reviews the past and wonders what
the future has in store. We are told
by some that there are very few dis-
tinct novelties, and that there is very
Uttle advance from year to year,
greater advance could we have than in
Two years ago we had no scarlets with

bad in most districts, and this may delay the arrival
of some of them. The following are a few I have
seen : King White. — This is a wonder for size and

I purity. It is quite as large as Melba, has four
blooms on nearly every stem, and often five. The
blue Picotee edge is coming, both on white and
cream grounds. These, I have been told, have taken
some time to fix. Both will be very much in demand
when offered. A Stirling Stent with the size and
vigour of King White will make some of the keen

! hearts flutter when they grow it for exhibition.
A large Mid Blue Spencer proves that the
Lavender blood is not all exhausted yet. I saw
one in July last, and it was a beaut\ — pure
perfection.

The duplex varieties have quite as many admirers
as opponents. There are some lovely stocks of
these about the country. There is one duplex
that has never given less than two double flowers,
often three, and sometimes all four on a stem.

I When the raisers are able to offer it, the market-
men and those who grow for cutting will be pleased

.\ BED OF UNST.\KED SWEET PEAS,

SHOWING HOW
DECORATIVE

true Spencer form and growth ; now there are
several offered for sale. I think this class will
gain in favour, as most of them improve after
cutting, while the crimson shades soon lose
colour. It is almost impossible to send or carry
the latter in boxes for any length of time and find
them of good colour.

The first of the waved type. Countess Spencer,
is losing ground. It cannot compete with Hercules
or Elfrida Pearson. Again, who would have said
two years ago that Helen Lewis would so soon drop
out of cultivation ? John Ingman will have a
struggle to hold its own in 1913, as Rosabelle will
be a favourite. It is much more effective, both
in the garden and on the table. The salmon shades
are improving, both in size and vigour, and the
same appUes to most of the other colours. We
cannot expect to see such distinct novelties every
year as Mrs. W. J. Unwin, Charles Foster and May
Campbell.

That there are still some lovely varieties to come
I am convinced. The seed harvest of 1912 was

THESE FLOWERS MIGHT BE USED FOR LARGE
BEDS.

with it. I hope all the Sweet Pea lovers will have
a good season. Andrew Ireland.

HOW I GREW SWEET PEAS
AT SUTTON GREEN.

IN connection with Sweet Peas there is nothing,
to my mind, so interesting as growing
different varieties for trial, and the person
who has vmder his care such trials as
those organised by the National Sweet
Pea Society is to be envied by all Sweet
Pea lovers. There are certainly few who
have such an opportunity of becoming so well
acquainted with the best novelties of the leading
raisers previous to their being placed on the market.
But such privileges are not without their responsi-
bilities, for one can understand that a failure
or two through the ravages of mice or disease or
bad germination are not pleasant memories.
There is also the grower who has one or more stocks

58

THE GARDEN.

[February i, 1913.

badly mixed, and who promenades up and
down the rows saying that he cannot understand
it at all, as they are quite fixed at home.

Tlie germination at Sutton Green last year was
remarkably good. Out of over two thousand
one hundred seeds sown, over 93 per cent, germi-
nated ; but, of course, the seeds were all specially
picked. All the same, a good deal was due to the
potting material, which consisted of decayed turf
and sandy soil containing little humus. The
plants were strong and healthy, but hard ; not, as
one often sees, strong and sappy. These hardy
seedlings can be planted out sooner and will not
be so adverse to the changed conditions, and for
this reason it is advisable to limit the richness
of your potting material and pay more attention
to the drainage. Ventilating freely in mild weather
and gradual hardening off must not be overlooked.
The method of cultivating the soil which was

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATE 1464.

FOUR GOOD SWEET PEAS.

THE four Sweet Peas shown in the coloured
plate presented with this issue represent
some of the best that have been intro-
duced during the last few years. Each
has some special merit to recommend
it to those who are interested in Sweet
Peas, and all are good for garden decoration, for
cutting, or for exhibition. Walter P. Wright and
Leslie Iniber were both put into commerce by the
raiser, Mr. W. J. Unwin of Histon, Cambs.
The first named is regarded by many as the finest
of its class, the large, pale lavender flowers being
exceedingly pretty and freely produced on long,
stout stems Leslie Imber is worth growing if only

invariably produces four on a stem under good
cultivation. It is of strong, vigorous growth.

Red Star was raised by Messrs. Dobbie and Co.
of Edinburgh, and sent out by them last year.
In igri it secured the distinction of an award of
merit from the National Sweet Pea Society. It
is a very deep rich scarlet self, and last year produced
more stems with four flowers than any other scarlet
variety we had.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

A LITTLE-KNOWN AUSTRALIAN DAISY-BUSH, OLEARIA MYRSINOIDES.

found from experience to be the most satisfactory
should prove interesting to those Sweet Pea lovers
having a sandy soil, the difficulty being, of course,
to get the plants to last during dry spells. As
soon as possible in October trenches 2 feet 6 inches
wide and i foot deep were taken out and the soil
placed between the trenches, there being ample
room, as from the centre of one trench to the next
6 feet 6 inches was allowed. The bottom of the
trench was deeply forked, and bullock-manure
and about three pounds of bone-meal to a 20 yards
run worked well in. The trenches were then left
for the frost to work on the soil until February,
when the top spit was replaced, a sprinkling of
soot being added. Another point which must
not be overlooked on sandy soil is deep and
firm planting. Harry L. Foster.

for the sake of its unique colour. Unfortunately, 1 blush, with

SOME OF THE NEWER DECORATIVE
ROSES.

HYBRID TEAS.

{Continued from page 45.)
Lady Greenall (A. Dickson and Sons, 1911). —
I referred to this under the exhibition varieties,
but it is really as a garden Rose
that it will be most useful. There is
no reason why our garden Roses
should not be as exquisite in shape
as the exhibition varieties, provided
they answer our other requirements.
It is not so very long ago that
the terra " garden Rose " was
almost synonymous with a Rose
of indiiierent shape ; but now we are
getting our garden Roses as perfect
in shape (possibly smaller) as their
exhibition cousins, and the Rose
under notice is an excellent ex-
ample of what I mean. The flowers
are of beautiful shape. It would
be hardly fair to call them of
medium sire, but they are not
very large, with, however, a beau-
tiful pointed centre, and good
outside guard - petals that reflex.
Colour, creamy white ground, suf-
fused with saffron orange. It has
a delicious Tea scent, and is quite
free-flowering and a good grower. It
is a Rose of distinction, and will be
much used for bedding purposes
when better known. I think I
am correct in saying it was one
of the most admired of the newer
Roses in my garden last summer.

Lady Margaret Boscawen (Alex.

Dickson and Sons, 191 1). — Another
Newtownards variety of excellent
garden habit. It makes a very
pretty button-hole even in the fully-
expanded flower, as it is not too
large for that purpose and of very
pretty shape. The colour is soft
a slight suggestion of fawn as

this is not well shown in the coloured plate. In
reality the standard is medium blue and the wings
a much deeper shade of that colour.

In the variety Edith Taylor we have a Sweet Pea
that is quite distinct and one that is regarded by
many as indispensable. It was raised by Mr.
Robert Holmes of Tuckswood Farm, Norwich,
and put into commerce by him last year. Mr.

the under colour ; strongly Tea perfumed and
holds its flowers erect. Not quite mildew-
proof, but a good and pleasing Rose all the
same, and one that will find favour with
many.

Lady Pirrie (Hugh Dickson, Limited, 1910). —
If this Rose had only a few more petals, it would
be near perfection. There is no gainsaying the

W. J. Leak, vice-chairman of the National Sweet beautiful combination of colour, especially in the
Pea Society, has very kindly sent us the following bud and half-opened flower stage. I will not
description of it : "A most pleasing shade of deep attempt to do it justice — it has to be grown to be
rosy cerise or old rose. Quite distinct from any fully appreciated ; but the outside of the petals
other variety. It has the advantage that the colour might be termed of a coppery salmon, and the
intensifies in the sun, whereas all others of a similar inside fawn and apricot. The bud is a good
shade bum badly. The flowers are large, of fine ' long one, and makes a button-hole that will take
form and beautifully waved, and the plant ' a lot of beating. The foUage and habit of the plant

Supplement to THE GARDEN, Eebniary \st, 191 3. i

fl

f..

<fi^

'*!

Four good Sweet Peas —

1. Walter P. Wright. 2. Leslie Imber
3. Edith Taylor. 4. Red Star.

Hudson t? Kearns, Ltd,, Printers, London, S,E,

February i, 1913^

THE GARDEN.

59

are good, and it will become very popular, especially
for decorative purposes indoors. It is undoubtedly
one of the most beautiful Roses that the Belmont
firm have given us. It was awarded the gold
medal of the National Rose Society at the Royal
Botanic Show in 1900. but was not sent out till
the following year.

Lady Reay (Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons, 1911).
— This is another button-hole variety, and at the
same time free-flowering enough for a bedder,
although possiblj' the majority would choose a

TREES AND

T

SHRUBS °'^ rather poor or sandy nature is the best, although

by no means absolutely essential, providing other

A BEAUTIFUL DAISY BUSH. conditions are favourable.

fOLE.\Ri.\ MVRSisoiDES.) It is a common plant in Tasmania, and also

HIS graceful and evergreen species has occurs locally in Victoria and New South Wales,
long been in cultivation, but is still growing in poor, sandy soil or rocky, barren,
a somewhat rart plant in gardens. It scrubby places where little else can exist. In
has the habit of forming long, arching common with the majority of the species, it does
or trailing growths, densely clothed ; not stand exposure to severe weather to any
with rich dark green, wavy leaves, '. extent without suffering, and in selecting a suitable

and is rovered in all its upper parts with hundreds position in which to plant, shelter from cold,
larger-flowered variety. The colour is blush pink of Daisy-Uke flower-heads during the month of cutting winds should be taken into consideration,
in the centre, shading off to mother-o'-pearl white. June. Each head is i inrh in diameter, the rav also bearing in mind that a stiff, heavy soil or wet

My plants of it — and I had
five — were always in flower
last summer ; but it might
with advant age be a
stronger grower. It is
scented, and can be ob-
tained at the reasonable
price of is. 6d.

Leslie Holland (Hugh
Dickson, 1911). — Although
best known as an exhibi-
tion variety, I am inclined
to think that at the moment
this is the best bedding
variety of its colour. We
have long wanted a real
good scarlet-crimson garden
Rose. J. B. Clark and
Hugh Dickson, both from
this firm, will still be grown,
the one as a pillar or semi-
climber, the other as an
exhibition Rose and as a
fine standard ; but for one
of a set of, say, a dozen
beds, they were both
almost impossible by reason
of their growth. Leslie
Holland does not sin in
that respect, and is, there-
fore, a much better bedder
than either. It is a good
grower, but not too
vigorous, rarely throwing
shoots more than 3 feet.
I should say 2 feet is about
the I average height of the
plant ; free-flowering and
fragrant.

Little Dorrit (Paul and
Son, 1912). — Although
figuring in most catalogues
as a Tea, this Rose, when
exhibited by the raisers at
the autumn show of the
National Rose Society,
where it was awarded a
silver medal in the new
seedling Rose class, was
termed by them a Hybrid

Tea, and I should say correctly so. It is of almost
China habit, and as seen growing in the Cheshunt
nurseries of the firm was very free-flowering and a
beautiful Rose, with something of the colour asso-
ciated with Hugo Roller, only deeper. It will appeal
to all as a most effective dwarf bedder. The centre
flower of the spray is very prominent, of excellent
shape. The colour is lemon yellow, splashed and
edged with deep carmine rose that gives a coppery
effect. Altogether a charming variety.

Soutkampion. Herbert E. Molvneu.x.

(To be continued.)

position is fatal to success.
The hardiest and, for
general purposes, the best
species of the genus is O.
Haastii, a fairly common
plant, especially in the
South. Its merit lies in its
floriferous and evergreen
habit and in being a most
useful shrub for town gar-
dens where the soil is light
and well drained.

C. P. Raffill.

THE NEW ROSE MRS. CHARLES RUSSELL, WHICH GAINED AN AWARD OF MERIT
AT THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S SHOW ON JANUARY 21. (See page tO.)

florets being pure white, those of the disc being
yellow and fading with age to brown. When seen
at its best it is a really effective and valuable plant,
and is well suited for trailing over a large rock or
stones in the rockery. It is also useful for the
front of the shrub border.

The largest plant with which I am acquainted
is some 3 feet or 4 feet high and about the
same in diameter, and is about eight years old
from a cutting. A well-dramed and sunny position,
sheltered from the north and east, is the most
suitable for this pla:it, and a compost which is

THE SWAMP

F.ONEYSUGKLE..

The hardy Azaleas or
Swamp Honeysuckles lend
a touch of beauty to the
shrubbery and woodland
that no other subject can
impart. The pleasing tones
of colotu: created by masses
of yellow, orange, fiery reds
and delicate pinks are so
beautiful in May and early
June that they quite
baffle description. More-
over, in the fall of the year
the foliage assumes au-
tumnal tints of bronze,
purple, and even crimson
)iue.

In a general way these
beautiful shrubs are
spoken of as Ghent Azaleas,
although in reality they
have their origin in the
bogs and uplands of North
.America. The Califomian
species, A. occidentalis,
produces bunches of frag-
rant white flowers a little
later in the year than most
others, and this species is
certainly one of the most
charming in autumn tints.
The pure white Ghent
Azalea named Anthony
Waterer is one of the most
popular, while those with double Hose-in-hose flowers,
called the narcissiflora group, are now widely
grown. Azalea mollis, from Japan, with its host of
varieties in salmon red and orange tones, are like-
wise hardy, and being dwarf are best suited for
planting in the foreground.

This is quite a good season for the planting of
.\zaleas. While it is true that they are peat -loving
shrubs, it should not be overlooked that they do
quite well in loam, providing it is deficient in
lime. The illustration on the next page shows
the spring effect created by well-grown bushes.

60

THE GARDEN.

[February i, 1913.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON
SWEET PEAS.

Multiplication of Sweet Pea Names. — In the

" Sweet Pea Annual," among other matter of more
or less general interest, Mr. Lester Morse of Santa
Clara, California, gives his " Impressions of the
Sweet Pea Show of 1912." These are mostly
exceedingly flattering to the grower at home,
and it cannot be doubted that Mr. Morse will be
written down an excellent fellow ; whereas, if he
had ventured to be critical, as he could easily have
been, our thoughts of him would have been the
reverse of complimentary. The most interesting
portion of his remarks is that in which he alludes
to the multiplication of names in Sweet Peas.
Mr. Morse says : " I was greatly impressed, and
annoyed, when I came to my note-taking, to
discover a hopeless confusion of new names.
A hundred varieties I thought I easily recognised
were shown under names I have never heard of,

so closely similar that it would demand a wonderful
power of imagination to discover the difference.
They have no opportunity of ascertaining which
varieties are distinct, except the personal experience
which they cannot afford to give. I do not mean
that they particularly begrudge the cash, but
they do emphatically object to the waste of space
which is entailed when one variety is unknowingly
grown under a multiplicity of names. It will be
said that they ought to go to the National Society's
trials, but that is absurd. Not one person in
fifty can do this, and many of them would not if
they could.

The fact is that in the old days they looked to
the National Sweet Pea Society to keep them on
the right track ; but they do not do that now,
tiecause they find that scarcely anything useful
is done in this direction by that powerful body.
Mr. Morse expresses pity for the committee which
is set the task of putting things right ; but that
task will have to be faced. A committee must be
appointed, consisting of amateurs of ripe know-

is done to remedy this, the Sweet Pea, and also
those who make it their business to grow seeds
for sale, are bound to suffer. — Ed.]

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

THE BEAUTIFUL SWAMP HONEYSUCKLE OR HARDY AZALEA.

(See page 59.)

THE SHRUBS MAY BE PLANTED NOW

and frequently one variety bore four to six
names. I thought last year that Margaret Madison
was absolutely new, but I foimd it here under
seven names. A variety we had named Veiled
Lady, but which we will not send out, I found here
with two other names, i.e.. The Abbot and Bird-
brook. The Earl Spencer shade must have had
quadruple twins and the Scarlet Spencers surely
led the bimch. I pity the committee that attempts
to straighten out the nomenclature."

I am, of course, sorry that Mr. Morse should be
" annoyed " at anything that he found in this
country ; but his annoyance is not nearly as impor-
tant as that of hundreds, probably thousands,
of amateur Sweet Pea-growers at home. Pur-
chasers of Sweet Peas are becoming disgusted
with the descriptions in catalogues, and place
little reliance upon them. They find different
names, different descriptions, and growing one,
two, three, or, according to Mr. Morse, anything
up to seven, may find all the flowers identical or

ledge, and it must be given the widest powers to
bracket varieties which are identical or so close
that it is impossible for the ordinary man or woman
to distinguish them. No trade grower must be
on this body, because, no matter how conscien-
tiously the committee did its duties, the decisions
would not prove acceptable to the .Sweet Pea world.

It is the amateur lovers of the Sweet Pea who
keep the society going, and who, incidentally,
make it worth the while of the trade to support
that society in so generous a manner, and they
are therefore entitled to be far more carefully
considered than is the case at present. The " Sweet
Pea Annual " is'good, but it is not worth 5s. unless it
contains information which cannot be got anywhere
else and which is perfectly reliable. Am,ethon.

[Although we publish the above, it does not
mean that we necessarily agree with all the state-
ments made by our correspondent. We do, how-
ever, endorse his remarks regardiag the multipli-
cation of names. Unless something very drastic

AWARDS OF MERIT.
Narcissus minicycla. — An early-flowering hybrid
between N. minimus and N. cyclamineus, in which
almost intermediate characters between the two
species have been 'established. The taller growth
is that of N. cyclamineus ; the colour, the reflexing
brim of the crown and its many divisions are
characteristics easily traceable to the first-named
parent. The Cyclamen-flowered character of the
perianth segments, which is so marked a feature
of N. cyclamineus, is apparently lost in the hybrid,
the perianth segments being almost at right angles
with the crown. The plants first flowered when four
years old, and as shown were 4 inches to 5 inches
high. In all probability a taller habit may yet be
forthcoming. As an early variety it will
be welcome in the alpine-house. From
Mr. F. Herbert Chapman, Rye.

Cyclamen persicum St. George.— A

deep salmon - coloured variety with
crimson base to the petals. In this
respect the variety is not superior
to other salmon-coloured forms. The
great attraction is in the handsome,
well - marked leaves, some marbled
and veined with white, others
heavily bordered. The variety
appears to reproduce these variations
in lirge degree from seeds. From
the St. George's Nursery Company,
Harlington, Middlesex.

Rose Mrs. Charles Russell. — A

variety with a gloriously rich per-
fume and fine form. Of its true colour
we are not in a position to determine,
the handsome vase of flowers gainmg
the award only reaching England from
•America the day prior to the last
meeting. Those flowers having
been cut some ten days from
the plants, and probably cold-stored
at once, would account for the non-
descript colour tone — pale Pickling
Cabbage red — as presented. The
2j-feet-long stems and highly-built
flowers were of the usual American
type, and which we in England might
well imitate. Could we but also imitate America's
sun during the winter season. The whole secret
of such productions are sunlight and sunheat.
(See page'59.) Froi" Mr. W. A. Manda, St. Albans.

NEW ORCHIDS.

A first-class certificate was granted to M. Firmin
Lambeau of Brussels for a magnificent variety of
Cattleya Enid named Firmin Lambeau. Awards
of merit were made to the following : Laelio-
Cattleya Firmini ardens, shown by Firmini Lam-
beau ; Coelogyne intermedia, shown by Messrs.
James Cypher and Sons ; Odontioda Madeline
Prince of Orange, from Mrs. C. J. Phillips of Seven-
oaks ; Sophro-Cattleya Orchid Dene, from E. H.
Davidson, Twyford ; and Odontoglossum Aire-
worthii Goodson's variety, from Mrs. H. S. Goodson
of Putney.

The foregoing awards were made by the Royal
Horticultiu-al Society on the occasion of the fort-
nightly meeting held on January 21.

February i, 1913]

THE GARDEN.

61

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO RAISE EARLY VEGETABLES IN FRAMES.

BY the use of cold frames, frames placed
on hot-beds and those heated by hot-
water pipes, several kinds of vegetables
may be brought to maturity — that
is, to a condition suitable for cooking —
very early in the year. Such produce
is highly appreciated. By the same means other
kinds of vegetables may be considerably forwarded
in growth. This is done by simply sowing the
seeds in boxes, pots or beds in the frames, and then
by carefully nursing the resultant seedlings under
glass while the cold weather prevails, so that there
will be a nice stock of sturdy plants fit to put out
directly the weather and the soil in the garden
are suitable. A great deal may be done in this
direction by the use of one frame only.

Early Potatoes may be dealt with at once. In
Fig. A, No. I shows how the seed tubers must be
planted in a frame in a bed of good soil, put in to
a depth of i foot. The siurface of the soil (No. 2)
should be i foot from the glass. If the frame is a
verv deep one, littery manure, tree leaves, or both,
mixed, may be put in to fill up, the soil being placed
on the bed. The latter will soon become warm
and hasten the growth of the Potatoes. Wooden
frames, as well as brick ones, may be used for this
purpose. No. 3 shows a good seed tuber bearing
one strong sprout only. Such generally produce
.1 crop of fine eating tubers and few small ones.
No. 4 is a tuber quite unsuitable for planting either
in frames or in the open border. A succession
of Potatoes may be assured by planting a few tubers

K.\RLY CROP.S OF POTATOES CAN BE EASILY RAISED IN FRAMES.

admitted to all young vegetables, also fresh air

at intervals of twenty-one days. Some of the tubers | when the weather is mild enough. No, 7
may be brought on by placing them in boxes and shows how to put the drainage material in a
surrounding them with light soil, as shown at , 12-inch pot, or in a box for seeds of Cauliflowers,
No. 5. The sprouts wUl grow and roots form, as : Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts, Leeks, Lettuces,
shown at No. 6. These forwarded tubers should I Tomatoes, Celery, &c. The seeds must be sown in
be carefuUy planted, when the growth will continue | the finer compost (No. 8). No. 9 depicts a yotmg
and young tubers soon form. I may say here seedling Tomato potted singly in a 3-inch pot.
that all frames should be covered with mats or I These plants do well on a mild hot-bed.
straw on frosty nights ; but it is essential to Turnips, Radishes and Carrots should be sown
success that the maximum amount of light be in shallow drills in cold frames, as .shown at Nos. i,

—

1 1 ■

1 ! ;
1 1 ,
1 1 ,

i 1/ i
1 1 1

1 ' 1
1 I I

1 1 I
1 ' 1
1 [ i

1 1 '
1 ii]
i 1

i 1 '

1 1 1

i 1 i
1 1 1

/

J

1

2 and 3 in Fig. B : or broadcast, as depicted in
Nos. 4 and 5. Long, narrow frames such as these
are very suitable for seedlings of Cauliflowers,
Cabbages, Celery, Brussels Sprouts, Lettuces, &c.,
to be transplanted from the seedling-boxes, as
shown at No. 6. A small wooden frame of this
kind will accommodate many hundreds of seedlings
in boxes. Such a frame may have a bed made up
in it and Carrots gro\vn, as shown at No. 7.
Ventilate freely when the weather is not frosty. It
is a fact that young Carrots form larger roots when
the frame is removed after they are well estab-
lished. This may be done late in March, exposing
the crop to the wind. Early-maturing varieties
of vegetables must be selected, of coiurse ; Turnips
with small tops, as shown at No. 8 ; and Carrots of
the French or English Horn types, as depicted at
No. 9. No. 10 shows a seedling Cauliflower ready
for transplanting; No. II, the same ready for a
second shift ; and No. 12, the same fit to plant in
a deeper frame, or in an open, sheltered border.
Nos. 13 and 14 show how Leeks are strengthened
by transplanting ; and No. 15, a stocky Lettuce
raised in a cold frame. C. G.

B

LETTUCE AND OTHER KINDS OF PL.\NTS FOR THE OPEN GARDEN MAY BE R.MSED

IN FRAMES AS SHOWN.

CLEANING THE LEAVES OF PLANTS
IN HOUSES.

There is no time more suitable than the present
for cleansing the leaves of various Idnds of green-
house and stove plants. In summer-time many
kinds of foliage plants are freely syringed every
week. This work prevents sediment lodging on the
leaves ; but in winter-time there is not much
syringing done, and as there is more smoke from
chimneys arotmd, sediment accumulates on the
leaves of the plants. Scale and other insect pests
must be got rid of, and to this end we should use
warm soapy water and a clean sponge.

62

THE GARDEN.

[February i, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Sweet Peas. — .-Ul ground for Sweet Peas should
be prepared at once. Good deep trenching is
essential, with a liberal supply of manure in the
lower spits. Stations for clumps in borders or
on the verges of lawns may with advantage
have the soil renewed, thus ensurmg good healthy
growth. Where the grower depends on spring
sowing, no time should now be lost, choosing those
varieties which suit the individual requirements
best.

Climbers, such as Vitis, Ivies, Honeysuckles,
Clematises, Wistarias and wichuraiana Roses,
whether growing on poles, arches, pergolas or on
the house, should now be pruned. In some instances
they may need tying or nailing in ; in others a trim-
ming up may be all that is necessary, taking off all
the unsightly hanging growths of last season that
are unnecessary for the proper furnishing of the
structure they are on.

Pyrus japonica, now nicely in bloom in sheltered
positions, should, if necessary, be cut back after
the period of flowering is over ; this only where
the area to be covered is restricted. Plants trained
on the houses must, of course, be kept spurred in,
or they soon become rather unsightly.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Pruning. — Though I prefer pruning shrubberies
rather later in the season to avoid the danger of
severe frost, which at times kills the shrubs back,
yet, where there is a great deal to do, the work must
perforce be pushed forward, commencing with those
in a sheltered position.

Digging. — Naturally, after pruning, the shrub-
beries should be dug whenever possible; and, need-
less to mention, if plenty of leaves are dug in, the
leaf-soil will keep the plants in a good growing
condition, it being the most natural form' of manure
and certainly all that can be afforded in many
instances.

Plants Under Glass.

Liliums. — By this date all imported bulbs
should be to hand and potted forthwith. For
general decorative purposes single bulbs in pots
are very useful ; but for use as specimen plants
in the conservatory or for cut-flower piurposes,
three to nve may be potted in 8J-inch or gj-inch pots.

Amaryllis. — Bulbs that flowered early last
season wUl, on examination, be found to be pushing
their flower-spikes, and should be removed to a house
with an intermediate temperature. Very little
water is necessary till the flower-spikes are well
advanced, or the foliage may come away quickly,
and thus rob the flower both of nourishment and
good appearance.

Clarkia elegans. — Autumn-sown plants that
have been wintered in 3-inch pots should now be
potted on, still keeping them in a very cool position ;
also a further sowing should now be made for
succession, these plants being extremely useful
both in pots and for cut flowers.

Mignonette also should be potted into its
flowering pots, either 4j-inch or 6-inch. Firm
potting is very necessary to keep the plants dwarf
and to get good flower-spikes. Where sown
straight into their flowering pots, they may now
be showing flower. If bushy enough, feed a little ;
if not, pinch the points out. This will induce them
to break and make better phmts.

The Kitchen Garden.

Peas. — Good batches of dwarf early varieties
should be sown as soon as the ground is in a fit
condition, preferably on a warm border, Laxtonian
and Little Marvel being excellent varieties.

Broad Beans. — These also may be sown at once
to succeed those sown outdoors in the late autumn.
These latter, being pretty forward, may have the
soil drawn up to them a little to preserve them
from the frost if it is likely to be severe.

Parsley. — In cold districts this does not always
winter well, and as that sown in frames runs to
seed early, a sowing should nov,- be made in boxes
as a succession. This, if pricked oB as soon as
ready on to a warm border, wUl soon get away,
and be found ready for use much earlier than that
sown in the open a little later on.

Celery. — For very early work a sowing of one
of the white varieties should be made in boxes
or on a hot-bed, pricking it off as soon as large
enough to handle.

Leeks. — For exhibition purposes early sowing
of Leeks is quite essential, and these also may be
sown in boxes or even singly in 2i-inch pots, pricking
or potting off in the first case as soon as necessary,
and in the latter potting on into 3-inch or ij-inch
pots. A temperature of 50"^ to 55°, with occasional
spraying? overhead to assist germination, will suit
them nicely.

Fruits Under Glass.
Early Peaches. — Whether these are pot or
planted-out trees, as soon as nicely in bloom they
should be fertilised by means of a rabbit's tail or
some other pollen-distributing appliance, preferably
about midday, after a little air has been put on
to ensure the pollen becoming dry. This must be
repeated every day or two till the List flowers
have opened, and it invariably ensures a good set
of fruit.

Hardy Fruit.

Spraying. — This has become one of the essentials
of fruit cultivation, and the month of February is
probably the best time to do it. To get the very
best results, it is work that must not be performed
in a haphazard manner, but every branch and crevice
must be well wetted to ensure all the eggs or larvae
of insects being killed.

Mussel Scale. — The ordinary caustic alkali
spray I have not found to kill the above, and as it is
a most insidious pest when it once gets hold, great
pains should be taken to try to eradicate it. Spray-
ing with a strong paraffin emulsion will often loosen
it, but the trees should be thoroughly gone over
once or twice with a brush that is not too stiff, and,
providing the operator takes his time and uses
a good mixture of soft soap and paraffin, it can
be got rid of. Thomas Stevenson.

(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.
Anemones and Ranunculuses. — Those who did

not plant their Anemones of the coronaria type
or their double French Ranunculuses in autumn
may do so now, provided the weather conditions are
suitable. Both delight in a rich, light soil deeply
worked. Plant about two inches deep, and see
that the crowns are uppermost. If sharp frost
occurs, a little light protection should be given.

Chrysanthemums. — There need be no hurry
with the propagation of early Chrysanthemums.
Still, where the young shoots' are pushing early,
it is better to take cuttings now. They can be
struck in boxes in a greenhouse with a rather
close atmosphere. As to varieties, their name
is legion ; but Lady Mary Hope, Miss Balfour
Melville, Lily, Rosie, j. C. Grieve, Masse Improved
and Abercorn Beauty are worthy of inclusion in
any collection.

Early Sowings. — Several thuigs should be sown
now, and, among others, East Lothian Stocks,
one of the sheet-anchors of the gardener for a
summer and autumn display. White, scarlet,
crimson and rose shades are all valuable. Sow
in pans or boxes, and cover with panes of glass
till germination takes place. If water is required,
always supply it by partial immersion. Other
seeds to be sown now include .Aquilegia, Centaurea
candidissima, Pentstemon, Ricinus, Scabious and
Verbena.

The Rose Garden.

Pruning Climbers. — All classes of Roses now
embraced by that convenient word ''Rambler"
may now be pruned. Considerations of space
forbid details, but, speaking broadly, all weakly
or badly-ripened main shoots should first be cut
away ; then one or two of the oldest main
stems, and a sufficient number of the best-
ripened of last year's growth retained to
replace those cut away. All laterals should be
cut back to within a few eyes of the main stem.
On pergolas and screen fences the only general
principle to be observed is that of keeping the
framework of the tree reinforced by timely supplies
of young, well-ripened wood.

Planting. — Where from any cause the work
could not be carried out in November, it should
be pushed forward as soon as practicable. On
heavy ground it will facilitate the production
of young fibrous roots if a good spadefiU of old
potting soil is worked in among the roots when
planting.

The Rock Garden.

Top-Dressing. — If the weather permits, the w.jrk
of top-dressing may now be carried through with
advantage whenever necessary. Different subjects
require different soils, and a good plan is to take
them in groups, making up a batch of soil that
will suit (with modifications) a certain group
and disposing of it first, and so on, group by group.
Where it can be done without injury to tlie roots,
the surface soil should be stirred a little before
applying the top-dressing.

Plants Under Glass.

Repotting Ferns. — Many Ferns only require
repotting every two years if the work of top-dressing
is attended to. All plants requiring repotting
should have attention, however, before growth
becomes active, or the young fronds are apt to
get damaged in the process. Recent experience
has proved that peat is not a necessity for a great
niany species. This is especially the case with
Adiantums and Pterises, both of which luxuriate
in loam, Oak or Beech leaf-mould and sand.

Hydrangeas. — Old plants may now be repotted.
Reduce the balls and pot them into a size larger than
they occupied before. They are gross feeders and
require a rich compost.

Pelargoniiuns of the Regal and fancy type
should now receive their final shift, bearing in mind
that they should be rather restricted as to root-
room. Vaporise occasionally to ward off green fly.

Chrysanthemums. — Japanese varieties that
were rooted singly in 2j-inch pots will now be
ready for shifting into 3j-inch pots. For this
potting a compost of loam, two parts, and good
leaf-mould and old Mushroom manure, one part
each, with a dash of sharp sand, will be suitable.
Stand near the glass, and spray once a day for a
week if the weather is bright. Decoratives as they
become rooted must he gradually inured to full
air and then be potted off into 3j-inch pots, two or
three m a pot, according to the habit of the variety
or the purpose for which the plants are ultimately
intended.

Alpinia Sanderae. — This is a near relative of
the Ginger Plant, belonging to the Order Zingi-
beraceae, and it is certainly one of the most lovely
variegated plants in cultivation, as anyone can
prove by paying a visit to the Royal Botanic
Gardens, Edinburgh. It is planted out in one of
the stove-houses there, where it is growing luxuri-
antly ; but I understand it is equally amenable
to pot culture. Somewhat Dracaena-like in general
appearance, it seems an ideal plant for house
decoration.

Sow Now Eucalyptus globulus and E. citrio-
dora, Grevillea robusta, SaintpauUa ionantha,
Srailax, Streptocarpus and Torenia Fournieri.

Fruits Under Glass.

Vines which have been bent downwards aivd
have now broken freely should be tied up into
position and disbudded. The late house may
now be shut up and a night temperature of 45°
maintained, with a rise of 5° during the day.

Strawberries. — The main batch should now
be brought indoors and accommodated in a late
Peach-house if available.

The Kitchen Garden.

Peas. — A sowing should now be made without
delay, and Gradus is hard to beat for this sowing.

Leeks require a long period of growth, and they
should be sown in rows a foot apart in rich soil on
a south border. Where large sorts are aimed at,
the Lyon is perhaps the best variety, but for
general purposes Musselburgh (if true) is excellent.

Parsley. — A sowing should now be made indoors
in a warm greenhouse temperature. As this vege-
table is largely used for garnishing, some really
good variety, such' as Dobbie's Exhibition, should
be used.

Carrots and Turnips. — An early sowing should
now be made in a frame on a slight hot-bed, as
recommended a fortnight ago.

Ch.^rles CoMFORr,
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

February i, 1913J

THE GARDEN.

63

PLANTS FLOWERING OUT
OF SEASON.

SOME INTERESTING RECORDS.

HAVING, since 1893, carefully noted
abnormal dates of flowering in the | (i) 1913, (2) 1912, (3) 1894, (4) 1903

and 1912 they were wet as a whole, with dry
periods ; 1893 and 1911 were abnormally
sunny during Jime, July and August ; 1902
was about normal, and 1912 hardly saw a day's
bright sunshine.

In order of early flowering the years were :

The years

CLASSIFICATION OF SWEET
PEAS.

case of certain wild or semi-wild
Bowers which are characteristic of
their respective seasons, Mr. Bowles'
article in your issue of the i8th nit.
iterested me greatly — so much so that I looked

1894 and 1903 varied in order of precedence with
different flowers ; whereas in order of rainfall
they were (i) 1893, (2) 1912, (3) 1911, (4) 1902,
or, for April only, (i) 1S93, (2) 1912, (3) 1902, (4)
1911. April, 1911, had the largest rainfall of the

We quote the following from the National Sweet
Pea Society's Annual :

" The floral committee of the National Sweet Pea
Society presents the following as an up-to-date
selection of varieties placed in alphabetical order.
* Indicates a grandiflora variety ; all others are
waved.

Bicolor. — Arthur Unwin, Colleen (A.M., B.H.S., 1909),
Mrs. .\ndrcw Ireland (F.C.C., 1908) and Mrs. Cnthbertson

up my notes on the subject, and also the available four years, and yet the spring flowers were earlier

rainfall records for the years antecedent to those in 1912 than in either 1894 or 1903, which scarcely 1 (■^•*,'' R.JJ.-S.. 1912)

, ., ,, r. , T .u J • ' I Blue.— moid. Norton Spencer,
noted. accords with Mr. Bowles theory; and, agam • •- ~ ~. . '^

, Lord Nelson (A.M.,
1907) and .Mrs. G. Charles.

Bliuh. — Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes (A.M., 1905) and
Princess Victoria (A.M., R.H.S., 1907).

Carmine. — John Ingman (F.C.C., 1904).

Cerise. — Cherry Ripe (A.iM., 1910) and Decorator
(A.M., 1912).

Cream, Buff and Jvory. — (Jlara Curtis (F.C.C., 1909),

My experience is that wild flowers are not so the spring and summer of 1895 were nearly, if not

responsive to mild weather in autumn, winter and quite, as dry and hot as 1893 and igir, and yet

earh spring as are garden flowers, so that for com- 1896 does not come into the list at all. If, on the

parisons of this kind they are more valuable than other hand, it is not April, but the general character

the latter. Since 1893 the spring flowers have of the soring which causes this earliness, why \ Isobel Malcolm and Paradise Ivory (A.M., i908)

.. ,, , ■ o J- 1 , 1 ^L. i_ , ,- , , ' Cream Pink (Pale) — Gladvs Burt. Ladv Jliller (AM

been exceptionally early m 1894, 1903 and 1912, should this year be so much earlier than last, 1912), Mrs H. Dickson (A.m!, 1910) and Sirs. Routzalin.

as my records show, and, of course,
in the current season, 1912-13. Out
of the various flowers available which
are generally very regular in their
time of opening, I will take two as
examples, namely, the common Snow-
drop and the wild Sweet Violet.
Th? Snowdrop's average appearance
here is during the last few days of
January or the first week of February,
and wild Violets begin to blossom
as a rule about March »i. In tlu-
years above mentioned they came
into flower as follows : Snowdrop —
January 20, 1894; January 27, 1903;
January 6, 191 2 ; December 26,
1912. Violet — February 20, 1894 ;
February 17, 1903 ; February 18,
1912 ; January 7, 1913. These
dates are, of course, those on which
the first blossom was found, but
the whole season in each case was
correspondingly early ; ^for instance,
I found Hawthorn in leaf on Feb-
ruary 7, 1903, and have already
seen the young leaves unfolding this
year.

The cause of this occasional pre-
cocity is more difficult to ascertain.
The really warm winters and early
springs since 1893 were r894, 1896
and 1903. Last year, which was
earlier than any of these, was not
at all a forcing season from January
In 1896, which was the mildest
remember, and which followed a very hot and dry
summer, the spring flowers, though earlier than
usual, were later than in any of the years mentioned,
and not far from the normal.

Mr. Bowles attributes this early flowering to
spring drought, and, referring to the rainfall figures,
we find the totals for the three months — March,
.\pril and May — were, in 1893, i-o8 inches (Green-
wich) ; in 1902, 510 inches (Greenwich) ; in 1911,
415 inches (Woodbridge Abbey, Suffolk) ; in 1912,
3 39 inches (Woodbridge Abbey, Suffolk) ; or
taking April alone 12 inch (Greenwich) ; -41 inch
(Greenwich) ; 126 inches (Woodbridge .Abbey,
Suffolk) ; and 19 inch (Woodbridge Abbey,
Suffolk), all being below the average, and
three of them very much below. All the autumns
(September, October and November) were mild,
but neither very warm nor very wet. The
summers of 1893 and 1911 were very dry ; in 1902

A .MODERN METHOD OF SHOWING SWEET PEAS. THIS LARGE AND BEAUTIFUL GROUP WAS
STAGED BY MESSRS. SUTTON AND SONS AT WOLVERHAMPTON FLORAL FETE LAST YEAR.

to .April,
winter I

when there was only 75 inch difference in the spring Cream Pink (Dee;)).— Constance Oliver (A.M., 1908),
. , ,, , . . , ,.~ . ,. ^-1 Doris Usher (A..M., R.H.S., 1909) and Mrs. R, Hallam.

ramfaU and six hours difference m the sunshme Cri?nson.— King Edward Spencer, Maud Holmes .ind

records, I9ir having both more rain and more sun I Sunproof Crimson (jl.M.. 1909).

^, , i^ann/.— .\ftereiow, Charles Foster (A.M., 1909) and

than iqi2 ? ; prince George.

I am inclined to think that while there is a great ' ioieMrfcr.— Florence Nightingale, Lavender George

J ,.,,_,, ^, .,. , ' Herbert (Dohbie's), Masterpiece (A.M., 1910), R. F.

deal m Mr. Bowles theory, comparmg the early j pelton (A.M., 1912) and True Lavender.

years with one another, it looks as if there were ' Lilac. — Agricola (A.M., 1912).
., t . . , ,, ^ .. ,_ ^L . Magenta. — Jlenie Christie.

some other factor at work as well. Can it be that MarHed and Watered.— 'nAm\ Pierre (F.C.C., 1907)

we are still feeling the effects of the hot summer and Jfay Campbell (A.M., 1911).

Maroon. — Black Knight Spencer, Nubian and Tom

of 191 r, but did not feel the eft"ects of the equally
hot summers of 1893 and 1895 respectively two
years later because the winters of 1895 and 1897
were too cold ? The remarkable similarity of my
wild flower records for December, 1894, and
December, 1912, supports this suggestion strongly,
for it must be remembered that the severe winter of
1895 did not begin till the latter part of January
and was most felt during February ; or are we
experiencing the effects of two dry springs with no
intervening hard winter to neutralise them ?
Hadleigh, Suffolk. T. H. Dip.v.^ll.

Bolton (A.M., 1906).

Maroon Purple. — Arthur Green (A.M., 1910) and Mrs.
J. M. Gerhold.

Maroon iicrf.— Brunette (A.M., R.H.S., 1912) and Red
Chief.

Mauve (Dark). — Hello-Paradise, Queen of Norway
(-\.M., 1906), Tennant Spencer and Wenvoe Castle.

Mauve (Paic).— Improved Bertrand Deal (A.M., 1912),
JIauve Queen (.4.M., 1911), Mrs. K. H. Carrad and
Winsome.

Orange Pink. — Edrom Beauty (A.M., 1909), Helen
Grosvenor and Helen Lewis (F.C.C. and S.M., 1905).

Orange Scarlet.— DAlzXer (A.M., 1909), Edna Unwin
(A.M., R.H.S., 1909) and Thomas Stevenson (F.C.C,
1911).

Picotee Kdged {Cream Ground). — Evelyn Hemus (.i.M.,
R.H.S., 1907) and Mrs. C. W. Breadmore.

64

THE GAKDEN.

[February i, 1913

Picoiee Edged (While Ground). — Elsie Herbert. (A.M.,
1906) Marchioness of Twecddale and .Mrs. Towiisend.

Pink (Beep).— Countess Spencer (F.C.C., 1901) and
Hercules.

Pink (Pa/c).— Elf rida Pearson (A.M., U.H.S., 1910).

Rose. — Marie Corelli, Marjorie Willis and Rosabelle.

Salmon S/inrfes.— Barbara (F.C.C., 1911), Earl Spencer
(AM R H S., 1910), Melba (A.M., K.H.S., 1912) and
Stirling Stent (P.C.C. and S.M., 1910).

5rarie«.— George Stark (F.C.C. and S.M., 1908), Red
Star (A.M., 1911) and Scarlet Emperor.

Striped and Flaked {Purple and Blue). — Loyalty and
Suflragette.

Striped and Flaked (Chorolate on Grey Ground). —
Senator Spencer and W. R. Beaver.

Striped and Flaked (Red and Rose). — America Spencer,
Aurora Spencer and Mr«. \V. J. Unwin (A.M., 1909).

B7,a,._'Dorothy Eckford (F.C.C, 1902), Etta Dyke
(A.M., 1996) and Nora Unmn (A.M., 1907)."

THE BEST SWEET PEAS.

One of the most interesting features of the
National Sweet Pea Society's Annual this year
is the numerous answers to questions that were
sent out to members at the commencement of
the Sweet Pea season last year. Among these,
members were asked to name the best six varie-
ties of Sweet Peas for garden decoration, the best
twelve Sweet Peas in cultivation, the best three
novelties of 1911-12, and the six strongest-growing
Sweet Peas. An analysis of the replies was com-
piled by Mr. J. Harrison Dick and published in
the Annual, and we quote this below.

The following selections show, as the result of
an analysis of " Expressions of Opinion," what the
members generally consider the best varieties :
SIX Best Varieties foe Garden Decoratios,.
(Analysis of Annwers to Questvin 1.)

1. Maud Holmes 33 votes-

2. Etta Dyke 24 „

3. Mrs. Hugh Dickson 21 „

i. Thomas Stevenson ■ • IS ,,

5. Elfrida Pearson and Mrs. W. J. llnwin . . 16 „

6. Nettie Jenkins . . . . . . ■ • 15 „

Twelve Best Sweet Peas in Cni.TivATiON.
{Analysis ol Answers to Question 2.)

1 Thonms Stevenson 53 votes.

2. Clara Cnrtis 42 „

3 Ellrida Pearson and Maud Holmes ..40 .,

4. R. F. Felton 39 .,

5. Elsie Herbert 37 „

6. Nubian 36 „

7. .Mrs. C. W. Brcadmorc . . . . . . 35 „

8. Etta Dyke 33 „

9. Hercules . . . . . . • ■ . . 30 ,,

10. Mrs. Hugh Dickson and Smiprool Crimson 23 „

11. Barbara, Edroni Beauty, John Ingma.M,

Melba and Mrs. Cuthbertson ..21

12. Charles Foster and Mrs. W. J. Unwin . . 20 „

Best Three Novelties of 1911-12.
(Analysis ol Ansivers to Question 3.)

1. R. F. Felton 36 votes.

2. Mrs. W. Cuthbertson 18 „

3. Edith Taylor , h? ••

Other varieties finding favour wen- : Melba, 14 ;

Barbara, 13 ; Scarlet Emperor, 11 ; lied Star, 8 ; Thomas
Stevenson, 7 ; W. P. Wright, 7 ; Afterglow, 6 ; and
Hercules, 6.

Six Stronsest-geowinr Sweet Peas.
{Analysis ol Answers (0 Question 4.)

1. Mrs. C. W. Breadmore 38 votes.

2. Elsie Herbert 34 „

s. R. F Felton 2/ „

4 Hercules and Maud Holmes . . . . 22 „

5. Mrs. W. Cuthbertson "9 "

6. John Ingman .and Snnrroof Crimson .. In

THE EDITOR'S TABLE.

Cotoneaster angustifolia.— Mr. J. Comber,

Nymans Gardens, Handcross, Sussex, sends fruiting
sprays of this interesting shrub with the following
note : " Some fine sprays of this Chinese shrub
were exhibited by Mr, G. Paul on behalf of the
grower, M. Vilmorin, at a meeting of the Royal
Horticultural Society on November 29, 1904,
when it received a first-class certificate. Subse-
quently a coloured plate appeared in The Garden.
Many besides ourselves must have been induced
to try it, and it is probable that there are now
numerous fine specimens in this country ; but,
as far as I am aware, very few have been recorded.

A specimen planted in 1905 has for the past two
seasons fruited abundantly in these gardens. At
first it grew rapidly, soon reaching the height of
6 feet, afterwards making horizontal shoots 2 feet
or 3 feet in length each season. The points rarely
matured, and were more or less injured by frost.
Transplanted to poorer ground and an open,
sunny position, it has since reached the width
of r2 feet ; but the growth is sturdy and has
borne an increasing quantity of fruit. The berries
are the size of small culinary Peas, and cast their
downy covering in October, gradually passing from
greenish yellow to brilliant orange yellow. Their
abundance gives the plant a most ornamental
appearance. Unfortunately, as far as my ex-
perience goes, they are not very persistent, for
having lasted in full beauty only six weeks, they
now (January 22) fall readily at the slightest touch.
No pruning is needed, the plant as it ages forming
a handsome bush."

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
make The Gauuen helpful to all leaders who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of yardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistocfc
Street, Corent Garden, London, IV. C*. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in tfie paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business s/iould be sent to the Publisher.

FLOWER GARDEN.

DOUBTFUL PLANT {Enquirer ).^ln all probability
you are euquiring tor Senecio elcyans, whicb may Ue
obtained from any good seed-house in crimson, purple,
rose, white and other shades. All are easily raised from
seeds, the varieties ranging from 9 inches to 18 inches
high.

ADONIS FROM SEED {E. T. ir.J.— All the Adonises
should be sown soon after maturing, preferably m slight
warmth, i.e., -io' or 50'. A light, sandy, well-drained
soil is best, and a soil covering about twice the depth of
the seed. Where the seed is long kept out of the soil,
it is apt to remain two seasons before vegetating. We do
not know the species referred to, and would be interested
to learn more concerning it.

ANNUALS FOR SHADY BORDER {Regular Reader).—
Most annuals prefer sun, though many are quite iuditterent.
One of the most important, of coui'se, is the Sweet Pea,
particularly the scj-rlet shades, which not infrequently
■■ burn " wlien grown fully exposed. For several years
we have grown a collection within the shade of fruit trees.
Others of service are Asters in variety, Cornflower,
(Jalliopsis, t'andytuft, Sweet Sultan, Statice sinuata
and the Wallflowers Antirrhinums and Canterbury
Bell; among biennials arc worthy of note and, if well
grown, arc capable of t good display.

JUDGING SWEET PEAS (7. C'.).— As you have had
no experience in judging Sweet Peas and do not know the
points whicb go to make a good spike, the best thing for
you to do is to leave the task to someone better quaiitied
to undertake it. It is mifair to you to be cahed upon
for so technical a duty, and unfair to tlie exhibitors that
their blooms should be adjudicated upon by one who
is not fnUy qualified. If you write to Mr. Charles H.
Curtis, 2, Adelaide Road, Brenttord, iliddlesex, he will
gladly SL-nd you the rules of the National Sweet Pea
Society, and for 2-^. would send you a copy of the " Sweet
Pea Annu.ll," containing the report of a conference on
judging; but you must spcrify that it is this particular
one that you want. No ; two competitors may not enter.

PRIMULA FROM AROLLA (R, S.).—li the Primula
is really P. fariuosa, it would now be more or less in the
crown-bud stage. The plant in flower is 4 inches to
6 inches high, the rosy lilac flowers borne at the summit
of a frail stcnii covered by a dense whitish meal or farina.
The leaves are also similarly characterised. The plant
is plentiful in the upland pastures of the Alps. The flrst
week of May would be early to flower it, unless frame culture
be resortedto throughout, and even then a little artificial

heat may be necessary. Such treatment, however,
robs these things of their grace and charm, and not a
little, too, of the colour. In the larger pot the plant
should flower well. It is by no means difficult to grow,
and is best perpetuated by means of seeds sown as soon
as ripe.

GENTIANAS {A. de G.).— The main essentials for the
sncci'^stul riilture of Gentiana acaulis are a sunny position,
good loamy soil with a fair proportion of gritty sand
and a reasonable amount of moisture. If it is intended
to divide the plants, the best time to do so is directly
the flowers are over ; but when established clumps are
obtainable, they may be planted during the autumn and
winter months whenever the weather is suitable. They
should be planted firmly, and it is very essential that they
are at no time allowed to suffer for the want of moisture.
The hardy Cyclamen may be planted in ejirly autumn
when dormant or nearly so.

DRAINAGE FOR ROCKERY (H. J. C.).— Either the
clinkers or the chalk would do quite well — anything,
indeed, that will permit of a free passage of superfluous
moisture. You might, in your case, have 9 inches of it
before you start building, though this amount might
require modification, according to cu-cumstances. For
example, you say nothing of its position, high or low,
whether on sloping bank, nearly level ground, or in a
depression. If the rockery is of any extent, a little expert
advice on the spot would be money well spent, and probably
save you much future disappointment and many failures.
Sandstone will do quite well if of the right kind. Some
sandstones, however, are of little value. Grit and leaf-
mould and the addition of burnt ballast would be much
better for mixing with the soil than chalk from the gas-
works, which may to some extent be impregnated by
the gas itself. A heavy soil is certainly not the best foi
the cultivation of choice alpines, though you do not say
what you contemplate cultivating.

PLANTS FOR STREAMSIDE BORDER {Asphodel).—
For this particular purpose the Tunica, Sedum, Andro-
saces and Geranium would be quite unsuitable ; the Caltha ,
much too early in flower. The (Enothera is also a trailing
subject far better suited to the rock garden or rockery
border, where it might trail among stones. Indeed,
the only really suitable things your list contains are the
Lobelias and Japanese Irises. To these latter you might
add I. aurea, I. Monnierl and I. pallida dalmatica. 0\her
good things would be some of the newer Astilbes, as
Ceres, Peach Blossom and Queen Alexandra, Spira?a
Filipendula ti.-pl.. Lobelia cardinalis, L. Queen Victoria,
Lilium canadense (in peat), Primula japonica, P. pulveru-
lenta (a notable plant indeed), Anemone japonica in red,
pink and white shades, and Senecio Doronicum. To make
a show, the whole of these should be planted in groups,
say, three or half-a-dozen plants to each group. As you
say nothing of the extent of the border, we cannot suggest
in this direction at all. The easiest rock plants to raise
from seeds are Aubrietia, Alyssum, Saxifrages (Mossy
sorts). Tunica Saxlfraga, Sileno alpestris, Achilleas (any),
Acantholimon glumaceum, Campanulas in variety.
Sedums, Saponaria ocymoides, Armeria, Erinus of sorts.
Iberis, Coronilla, Hutchinsia alpina and Pianthus in
variety.

ARUM LILIES FOR STREAMSIDE GARDEN {L. B.).—
Calla elliottiana differs so markedly from the ordinary
Arum that you are not at all likely to succeed with it
under the conditions named. In the first place, the ordi-
nary kind (Calla or Richardia »thiopica) is a native nf
Cape Colony, where it frequents ditches and similar
spots, and in some places there frosts are not unknown.
C. elliottiana, on the other hand, comes from a warnn-r
district further North; hence it would not survive an
English winter. There yet remains another and very
important item, and that is the ordinary Arum is practi-
cally an evergreen unless it is dried off during the summer ;
whereas elliottiana behaves quite differently. This last
named forms a flattened tuber, much resembling that of
a Caladium, and, like it, passes the winter in a totally
dormant state, during which period it should be kept
quite dry. Shaken quite clear of the old soil and repotted
in February in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, well-
decayed manure and sand, it will, in a temperature of
55° to 65", start freely into growth and push up its hand-
some, spotted leaves, soon after which the flowers make
their appearance. When the pots get full of roots, an
occasional stimulant will be helpfiU. After flowering,
the plant must be kept in the greenhouse in order to encour-
age growth and the formation of flowers for another season.
By the end of the summer the plant will show signs uf
going to rest by the leaves turning yellow. When this
happens, the water supply must be lessened, and, when
quite dormant, discontinued altogether.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

CLIMBERS FOR HURDLES {A. C.).— A mixture of
green-leaved Ivy and Jasminum nudiflorum would look
very well in the position you describe, or, if the position
is not exposed to great cold in winter or early sprmg,
Escallonia langleyensis might be used. The latter plant
forms long, graceful shoots, and bears large quantities
of rosy red flowers during the summer. It will stand
15' or 18° of frost without harm, providing the frosty
period is not a prolonged one ; but when over 20° are
experienced it is liable to injury. The Ivy and Jasrame
combination forms, of course, a pretty wmter effect,
for the flowers are at their best during January. The
<^reenery of the Ivy, however, remains the year round,
and a summer-flowering Clematis might be placed with it,
for that could be cut down in winter.

^^t^

r>0^-^—^.

GARDEN.!

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■=^i,.

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No. 2151.— Vol. LXXVII.

February 8, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes of the Week. . 63
coburspondence

Fatsia japonica harcl>
in Lancashire . . ttti

Plants flowering early c«

I.auruatinus lucidum 67

Clematis indivisa in
New Zealand . . 67
Solution and notes of

Acrostic No. 7.. .. 67
Solversof Acrostic No. 6 67
Forthcoming events . . 67
Prizes for the Best

RooE Gardens .. 67
SoiEsoE IN Relation to
Hoktiooitoee

Hybridisation . . . . 67

FKUIT G.IRDEN

Bitter-pit in Apples 68
KocK AND Water Garden

Iris Vartanii
A Cicilian Crocus . .
Lithospermum grami-
nifolinm
Fi.owEP. Garden
A miniature hybrid

Narcissus
Lilies: A causerie. .

70

llosE Garden
Growing Roses over

rustic poles . . , . 71
Some of the newer
Hjbrid Tea Roses 72
Kitchen Gakden
Seasonable notes on
vegetables . . . . 72
Gardening for Beginners
Liliums in uudrained

pans of moss fibre 73
How to grow Balsams 73
How to pot Tube-
roses 73

How to prepare soil
in a Rose-bed . . 73
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 74

For Northeru gar-
dens 74

A National Daffodil

SOCIETY . . . . 75

.\NSWERS TO CORRE-
SrON DENTS

Flower garden . . . . 75

Rose garden . . . . 76

Miscellaneous . . . . 76

Societies 76

II.I4USTRATIONS.

Clematis indivisa in a reader's garden in New Zealand 67

Apple Tower of Glamis attacked by bitter-pit . . . . 68

Vascular network of Apple with bitter-pit patches . . 68

Fibro-vascular system of a Pear 68

A beautiful Iris (I. Vartanii) for the alpine-house . . 69

A new miniature Narcissus (N. mlnicycla) 70

Rustic poles as supports for rambler Roses 70

Rose Elise Robichon growing over rustic poles . . . . 71

Ijilium tigrinum Fortune! in an undralned bowl of fibre 73

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor icdcomea photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible lor their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, unll be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright unit be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contribuiions w-hich he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistoi,k Street, Covent Qardm, W.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Sweet Pea Edith Taylor.— On page 52 of our
last issue we inadvertently stated that this Sweet
Pea was sent out by Mr. Robert Holmes. .•Uthough
raised by him, it was sent out by Robert Sydenham,
Limited, Tenby Street, Birmingham.

Two Uncommon Ornamental Trees. — Planters

of ornamental trees are sometimes at a loss to know
what to secure in the way of uncommon subjects.
Two distinct trees for planting in gardens
are Cedrus atlantica pendula and Pinus sylvestris
aurea, the former a weeping form of the well-
known Cedrus atlantica, the latter a beautiful
golden form of Pinus sylvestris. Both are
splendid for isolated specimens in the pleasure
grounds.

The Victoria Medal of Honour in Hor-
ticulture. — To fill the three vacancies caused
by deaths during the past year, the Council
of the Royal Horticultural Society have
bestowed the Victoria Medal of Honour in
Horticulture on Mr. Divers, the well - known
head-gardener at Belvoir Castle ; Mr. Whytton,
Superintendent of Glasgow City Parks ; and the
Rev. W. Wilks, for twenty - five years the
esteemed secretary of the society.

A Primula Conference. — On April 16 a Primula
Conference will be held by the Royal Horticultural
Society at Vincent Square, vfhen Sir John Llewelyn,
Bart., will occupy the chair. The papers to be
read are as follow ; " Himalayan Primulas," by
Mr. Craib of Kew ; " European Hybrids in Nature,"
by Mr. Reginald Farrer ; " Primulas from a
Garden Point of View," by Miss Jekyll ; " Chinese
Species of Primula," by Professor Bayley Balfour,
F.R.S. ; and " European Primulas," by Dr. John
McWatt.

Dwarf Shrubs for the Hock Garden.— Among
dwarf shrubs for planting on narrow borders or on
the rock garden, the following are very interesting,
and are not seen so often as their merits deserve ;
Berberis buxifolia, Olaria niummulari^folia. Genista
sagittalis, Veronica cupressoides, and V. pinguifolia,
the latter having grey foliage. These subjects
are of easy cultivation, and do not require constant
pruning to keep them in shape. Many so-called
dwarf shrubs are only kept in boimds by constant
priming, and however neatly this operation is
performed, it is often advisable to use plants
which do not require the constant use of knife
or shears.

Ornamental Crab Apples tor the Conserva-
tory.— Among the numerous hardy trees and
shrubs which are forced for conservatory decoration,
the best of the Crab Apples are great favourites,
both on account of their free-flowering quaUties
and delicate colouring. A group composed princi-
pally of Pyrus floribunda, its variety atrosanguinea,
and the semi-double-flowered P. Scheideckeri was
noted on January 35 in the greenhouse at Kew,

where it was certainly one of the daintiest and
most admired features. The plants of P. fiori-
bnnda were 10 feet or 12 feet high and well
flowered throughout, P. Scheideckeri being bushes
3 feet or 4 feet in height. The elegance of such
plants and the pretty shades of the flowers open
up a wide field of possibilities for the exercise of
the decorator's art, for in conjunction with wfiite-
flowered or foliage plants many effective arrange-
ments might be made.

A Useful Annual for the Greenhouse. — Among
the various annuals that, sown in pots in the spring,
are of considerable value for the embellishment
of the greenhouse later on must be included Rho-
danthe Manglesii and its white-flowered variety.
The seed sown now will quickly germinate, and,
providing it is grown in a good light, airy
position in the greenhouse, so that the young plants
do not become drawn, it gives but little trouble.
By some the seeds are sown in the pots in which
they are to flower, while by others they are sown
in pans or boxes and pricked o2 therefrom into
their flowering pots, which are, as a rule, 5 inches
in diameter. From eight to ten plants are put
in a pot.

Apples with Many or No Pips. — At a recent
meeting of the scientific committee of the Royal
Horticultural Society, Mr. Chittenden showed
specimens, to which reference has already been
made, of Apples having more than two seeds
in the capillary cells. The variety Duchess's
Favourite had, as a rule, in the past season four
seeds in each cell, and in one case five had been
found. This is remarkable, as the number in the
wild types is practically constantly two, and that
has been used as a basis of separation between the
genera Pyrus and Cydonia. He also showed
specimens of an Apple called No- Pip, which was
reputed to form no seeds, although the Apple was
perfectly developed. Those exhibited had only
the merest rudiments of seeds, apparently no larger
than the ovules had been.

Camellia reticulata. — To many people the
irregular-shaped flowers of this species appear
more beautiful than the flowers of the varie-
ties of C. japonica with their formal outline,
and everyone who sees a bush in full bloom is
impressed by its beauty. A native of Hong
Kong and China, it forms a large bush, with longer
and more slender shoots than C. japonica. The
flowers resemble those of a semi-double Paeony,
for the red petals are of irregular size and shape,
and enclose a central mass of yellow stamens, a
single flower being from 5 inches to 6 inches across.
Unfortunately, it is less hardy than C. japonica,
and may not be grown out of doors, even in the
milder counties, imless it is given the protection
of a wall. It is, however, an excellent plant for
planting in a border in a greenhouse or conservatory,
where it may be trained against a wall or allowed
to assume bush form. Under glass it blooms
during January and February.

66

THE GARDEN.

[February 8, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

The Herbaceous Border at Hopetoun House,
Linlithgowshire. — In my notes in The Garden
of January ii, page 22, I regret having omitted to
give the dimensions of the fine herbaceous border
at Hopetoun House, an illustration of which was
given. The total length is 167 yards and the
width 18 feet. — C. Bl-'vir.

Rose Herzogin Marie Antoinette. — I was

much interested in Mr. Herbert E. Molyneux's
note on the above Rose on page 45 of The Garden
for January 25, and was glad to observe that
he had grown it. Many Continental varieties of
great merit are apt to be overlooked, and the Rose
under notice is a case in point. It is certainly a
good decorative Rose. — George M. Tavlor,
Midlothian.

Fatsia japonica Hardy in Lancashire. — In
reference to the note about this plant on page 30,
issue January 18, it may interest readers to know
that it is quite hardy here. There is a plant of it
here that has been outdoors for eight years, and it
is a fine one, with leaves down to the ground.
It is 5 feet 6 inches high and as much through.
It has had no protection whatever. — H. Glover,
Orrell, near Wigan.

Plants Flowering Early. — I have read with

interest your various correspondents' notes on
the early flowering of various plants. .In these
gardens on January 8 there were fifty-three
different species of plants in bloom outside, the
most remarkable being Olearia Gunnii, which had
ten flowers open and numerous others on the
point of bursting, and Staphylea colchica, with
foiu' sprays of blossom fully open ; while Anemone
alpina, A. blanda' and Cyclamen Coum are patches
of bright colour. — A. Grant, The Gardens, New
Place, Haslemere.

Flowers in British Columbia. — ^So many people
are now mterested m Canada, but I think the
climate in places is misunderstood. For instance,
here in my garden in Victoria, B.C., I had the
following plants in bloom on January 3 : Roses,
Chrysanthemums, Auriculas, Violets, Geraniums,
Snowdrops, Hypericums, Calceolarias, Helleborus,
Aubrietias, Pansies, Primroses, Wallflowers, Stocks,
Fuchsias, Dianthuses, Antirrhinums, Cmeraria
stellata, Daisies, Lupines, Primulas, Eschscholtzias,
Hollyhocks, Portulaca, Poppies, Mignonette and
Arabis. — T. B. Pemberton.

The Hardiness of Campanula isophylla. — At
the conclusion of a lecture which I gave the
other day, an interesting discussion took place
on the question of the hardiness of Campanula
isophylla. In my lecture I stated that I had
been unable to keep it in the open in the
neighbourhood of Dumfries ; that I had never
seen it standing in the open in this part of
the country ; and that the finest plants of C.
isophylla I had ever seen in the open were in Ireland.
Several who were present practically confirmed
what I had said regarding this Bell-flower in this
part of Scotland, but one gentleman stated that
when in Lancashire he had seen C. isophylla standing
through the winter in pots in the open, and sub-
jected to treatment which many professedly hardier
flowers would not stand. In view of these remarks
it would, I think, be an advantage if others who have
tried C. isophylla out of doors would give us the
benefit of their experience. I may add that the
plants in Ireland to which I referred were grown

on a sheltered wall in Dublin and were exceedingly
fine. Nowhere do we see this plant better grown
than in cottage windows, and many fine examples
are to be met with in this district. — S. Arnott,
Dumfries.

Old Cyclamen Plants. — In The Garden for
January 18 you ask readers (or particulars con-
cernmg the age of Cyclamen. I have a friend who
has some plants twenty years old, and which flower
profusely each year. I have seen them yearly
for the last six years, so I can vouch for their
flowering well. ■ Speaking to him last week on the
topic, he informs me that they can be kept as
remarked in your note. He also believes in
keeping them when he has good colours, as
he knows what he is growing. — George Crabbe,
Woodside.

Sowing Early Peas. — I quite agree with the
method of sowing seeds of early Peas as practised
by the late Mr. Charles Foster and referred to in
" Notes of the Week," issue January 18. For
several years, having ample space in a six-acre
kitchen garden, I sowed some seeds of early varieties
of Peas in December and January and chanced
what the result would be. Having plenty of dry
soil from the potting-shed and root stores, I
covered the seed r inch deep with it in a dust dry
state, and then put on a thin layer of the border
soil. The border was a warm one on the south
side of a 12-foot-high fruit wall, and we had no
failures except once, when rats did a lot of damage.
The pods were ready to gather about a week
earlier than those grown on plants from later
sowings. — .\voN.

The Newer Roses.— On page 21, date January 11,
is a suggestion by Mr. H. E. Molyneux that readers
should send a list of the newer varieties they have
tried and proved satisfactory. Among others, we
have tried the foUowmg, which have, on the whole,
in growing and flowering given every satisfaction :
Miss C. Forde, Lady A. Stanley, Mrs. C. MUler,
Lady Pirrie, Jonkheer J. L. Mock, Mrs. A. Munt, My
Maryland, Entente Cordiale, Mrs. E. G. Holland, E.
Mawley, Herzogin Marie Antoinette and Rosomane
Thomas (catalogued as a Tea variety). To par-
ticularise, I may add that Mrs. Holland, E. Mawley
and Herzogin Marie Antoinette do not appear any too
strong in making growth, but perhaps time may
set this matter right, while the last of the three
is very free-flowering. I think this list only
dates back to 1909. Our soil inclines to
stiffness, and the plants get liberal attention. —
C. T., Highgate.

Roses Grown Near London.— A few words
regarding a Rose which I have seldom seen men-
tioned in your columns, but which I have found
a very suitable one for town gardens, may be of
interest. I refer to Mme. Hector LeuUliot. While
it is quite true that it is not one of those Roses
which are remarkable for their freedom m producing
flowers, still, I think it is well worthy of being
more generally grown, it being very hardy, a good
strong grower, with lovely foliage, and one that
appears to thrive on a poor soil. The colour of
its blooms is extremely rich orange, the outer
petals being somewhat paler and prettily veined ;
they have, moreover, a pleasant, fruity fragrance.
In a cool summer similar to what we experienced
last year, the blooms are even deeper and richer in
colour. The blooms are full and hang their heads
slightly, but I do not consider that this detracts
anything from their loveliness when the plant is
grown at the foot of trellis-work and the growths
trained and tied back to hide the same. A tree

of this variety that I have growmg in this manner
made splendid growth even for the remarkable
summer we experienced last year. One shoot I
measured was fully 14^ feet long, while some of
the leaves on it were loj inches in length. This
vigorous growth appears wonderful to me when
taking into consideration the light, stony soil
in which it is planted and how confined the gardens
are in the immediate vicinity where I reside.
Perhaps some others of your readers would give
their experiences with this variety. — H. A.
FoRDHAM, Forest Gate, E.

Ranunculus Lyalli in New Zealand. — As

the writer of a note on this subject which appeared
in The Garden about two years ago, I was,
naturally, greatly interested in Mr. Willcox's
note and the charming illustration of a portion
of his rockery which appeared in your issue for
January 18, page 34, with R. Lyalli (one of the
finest of all sub-alpines) nestling in the background.
In my note I advocated its extended culture in
this country, but was informed by your esteemed
correspondent Mr. S. Arnott that the plant is
difficult to establish, and that attempts had been
made which mostly proved a failure. However,
I was determined to try, and had two plants sent
me by my sister from Invercargill, New Zealand.
They, however, proved a failure ; the long journey
had extracted their vitality to such an extent
that after a brave struggle to live they gradually
dwindled away. Still, I firmly believe that if
we raised our plants from seeds, success would
be more assured, and if we follow Mr. Willcox's
cultural directions we might establish this new
plant in our own country. — J. E. Davies, The
Gardens, Talygarn, South Wales.

Serious Losses Among Roses in Linlithgow-
shire.— Not for many years have our Roses suffered
so severely as they have done during the present
winter. Climbers on walls, arches and pillars,
in particular, are a sorry sight, while dwarfs have
by no means escaped. In this garden our Rose
arches are of painted iron, and at first I was inclined
to blame these for the losses, but on examining
a row of wooden pillars connected by hempen
ropes, I find the destruction quite as heavy, while
also in other gardens in the district, where all arches,
pergolas and pillars are of rustic woodwork, the
same serious state of affairs is in evidence. Now,
the winter, on the whole, has been anything but
severe, so far as frost is concerned, but, owing
doubtless to the cold, wet summer, growth was
made so late that the wood was very imperfectly
ripened, and what frosts we had found everything
green and full of sap. The most severe frosts
were from November 27 till December 3, and it
was this spell of cold weather that did the mischief.
So far as my observation serves, the only climbing
Rose that has totally escaped is our old friend
Gloire de Dijon. All our plants of this are on walls,
so that they have all the shelter going, but as
Crimson Rambler, Griiss ai Teplitz and others
liave suffered more or less severely when trained
in similar positions, it seems evident that the good
old Gloire is the hardiest of all climbing Roses.
A good big plant of Hiawatha on an arch is quite
killed, as is also a weeping standard of White
Dorothy. As I have already said, the dwarfs
have not entirely escaped, but it is just too early
to determine how serious the loss is among these.
Perhaps readers in other parts of the United King-
dom will briefly state their experiences in regard
to this matter. — C. Blair, Preston House Gardens,
Linlithgow.

February 8, 1913.]

THE GAKDEN.

67

Laurustinus lucidum. — In the various para-
graphs that appear from time to time regarding the
Laurustinus, I am surprised that no one refers to
the variety lucidum. Tliis has a large, pohshed,
dark green leaf, not corrugated Uke the type,
and the flowers are at least twice the size of the
common kind. It is fairly common in Qimish
gardens, but is quite hardy. It is not easy to obtain
from nurserymen, who sometimes supply the
French variety (much inferior) in place of it. It
can be obtained in Ireland. I should like to know
when it was introduced and from where. — J. A. D.,
Noctorum.

Clematis indivisa in New Zealand. — 1 am

sorry that I am not near enough to send you
some flowers for your tabic, but
please accept a photograph of a
plant of Clematis indivisa, which
was planted two years ago in my
garden. It covers the top of a rustic
fence for a distance of i6 feet. Un-
fortunately, the camera could not
include the whole length. Viewed
from the other side, the mass of flowers
looked even finer than this, but the
background was poor. The plant
began to flower on July 20, and there
were still a few flowers to be seen at
the beginning of November. — Frank
Mason, Whakaronga, New Zealand.

PRIZES FOR THE BEST
ROCK GARDENS.

To further stimulate the interest that is being taken
in rock gardens, the Proprietors of The Garden
offer the following prizes for three photographs of
a rock garden, or portions of a rock garden ;

First prize : Five Guineas, or a Silver Cup of
that value.

Second prize : Two Guineas, or Boolcs of that
value.

Third prize : One Guinea.

The competition is open only to the actual owner
of the rock garden, or to his or her gardener.

SCIENCE IN RELATION TO
HORTICULTURE.

T

HYBRIDISATION.

art of hybridisation

HE

enormously by the
coveries of Mendel.
a game of chance

has gained

far-reaching dis-

It is no longer

between the ex-

perimenter and Nature. Mendel's
carefully-planned researches drew from
Nature a knowledge ot the controlling laws
under which sexual reproduction worked, and
of the new forms of life she called into being.
No hybridiser nowadays need experiment at

H

E
A
T
H

SOLUTION AND NOTES OF
ACROSTIC No. 7.

"HEATH" "ERICA."

ELLEBOR E

SPALIE R

MPELOPSIS VeITCHI I

SOPMO C (compost)

ENN A

H. Andrews published a monograph
of the genus Erica betw^een 1804 and
1814. Loddiges and Son w'ere cele-
brated nurserymen at Hackney early
in the nineteenth century. Erica was
the name used by Pliny. — See Nichol-
son's " Dictionary of Gardening."

* Christmas Rose (H. niger) and
Bear's-foot (H. foetidus). t Folkard's
" Plant Lore," page 24. Mahomet
called it " chief of the flowers of this world and
the next." It is now known as Lawsonia alba.

CLEMATIS INDIVISA IN A READER'S GARDEN IN NEW ZEALAND.

SOLVERS OF ACROSTIC No. 6.

Correct solutions of Acrostic No. 6 were sent in
by the following : " Leander," L. .A. Louden,
" Elm, Hampton," " H. A. T.," Mrs. F. Jones,
" Nemo," " Ian Dhu," William Bond, " Rustic,"
" Retrac," " R. P. B.," " Tempus Fugit," " Briar-
bank " and Miss G. M. Hallowes. In our next
issue we hope to pubHsh the names of those who
have correctly solved N05. 7 and 8, and also the
names of the prize-winners.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

February 10. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Meeting.

February 11. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Annual Meeting.

February 12. — East .4ngUan Horticultural Club's
Meeting.

February 14. — Finchley Chrysanthemum
Society's Annual Meeting. Beckeuham Horti-
cultural Society's Meeting and Lecture.

The competition is subject to the following
rules :

1. Not more than three photographs ofj^each

garden may be sent in by one competitor.

2. Each photograph must have the full name and

address of the competitor plainly written
on the back in ink.

3. Successful competitors shall furnish written

particulars of the rock garden forming the
subject of their photographs.

4. Glazed and mounted P.O.P. prints must be sent.

5. .\11 photographs must be sent to arrive at

The Garden Offices, 20. Tavistock Street,
Strand, W.C, not later than June i, 1913-

6. Unsuccessful photographs sent in for com-

petition will be returned if a sufficiently
stamped and addressed envelope or wrapper
is enclosed for the purpose, but no responsi-
bility will be taken for the loss or damage of
photographs submitted, although every care
will be taken to return them uninjured.

7. The Proprietors of The Garden reserve to

themselves the right to reproduce any
photograph sent in for competition.

8. The decision of the Editor will be final.

random. His work can be carried along definite
and well-defined lines, and, having discovered by
experiment certain factors, he is able to foretell
the likely results of mating this parent with that.
Mendehsm, therefore, has given a great impetus
to the practice of hybridisation, and has largely
contributed to the enrichment of our gardens with
improved strains of cultivated plants. A good
illustration of the application of Mendel's law, as
it is conveniently called, to prcictical gardening is
furnished by a series of interesting experiments
on Tomatoes recently carried out at the New York
Agricultursd Experimental Station by R. Welhngton.
Mendel's Laws. — To imderstand the meaning
of the results obtained in these experiments it will
be necessary, first, to explain — to those who are not
familiar with the working of Mendelian factors —
one or two of the first principles underlying the
science of hybridisation. The factor determining
any given character of a plant, such as height,
is inherited ; that is, it is transmitted from the
seed parent to the offspring or seedhng. Pure-
blooded "tails" when mated will always produce
tails, as the pollen as well as the ova carry the same
kind of factor. But what will hapnen if the pollen

68

THE GARDEN.

[FfiSRtJARY 8, 1913

or ova of one parent carries the factor of
tallness, and the pollen or ova of the other
parent carries the factor of shortness from
a pure strain of dwarfs ? While the offspring
will obviously inherit the power to produce
both characters, it is also obvious that it
cannot be both tall and short at the same
time. It must be one or the other, unless,
.ndeed, it makes, as it were, a compromise
and becomes neither the one nor the other,
but simply grows to a medium height.
But it may not take this latter course,
in which case one of the characters will be
" dominant " ; that is, It will master the
other, or " recessive," as it is called. Tall-
ness in Sweet Peas, for example, is domi-
nant to shortness. It follows from this that
when a dwarf and a tall Sweet Pea are
mated, the progeny of the cross in the first
generation will be all tall and all hybrids,
hybrid because, although they are all tall,
yet they all contain the factor of dwarf-
ness in subjection. Now the next point to
understand is that while an individual plant
may be hybrid, the. individual pollen and
ovu produced by that plant can never be
hybrid in its nature. As the pollen grains
are formed, the Mendelian characters
separate in twos and twos equally, so that
half the number of pollen grains possess the
factor of tallness and half the factor of dwarfness,
and the same thing happens with respect to the
ova, thus :

Pollen. Om.

I T 3 T

2D 4 D

Now, if you take up a quantity of ripened pollen
in a camel-hair brush from either the pollen or
seed parent and dust it over the stigmas of the
other, what are the chances of combination ?
If pollen No, i fertihses ova No. 3, clearly the
offspring will be a pure tall ; while if it fertilises
ova No. 4, the offspring will just as obviously be a
hybrid. On the other hand, if the pollen grain
No. 2 carrying the pure dwarf-producing factor

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

m 1 1 E

D

^^^^^^■HJlfe*'

^^^^^^^^^^^Hm^*'.

4 'v;il^|^^^^^^|

RHp*

'i^Mi^^^^^^^^r

-VASCULAR NETWORK OF APPLE WITH BITTER-
PIT PATCHES ATTACHED. THE NETWORK IS
INTERRUPTED WHERE THE BROWN PATCHES
OCCUR.

I. .\PPLE TOWER OF GLAMIS SHOWING EXTERNAL

APPEARANCE WHEN ATTACKED BY BITTER-PIT.

fertilises ova No. 4, the resulting offspring will
be of a pure dwarf strain ; while if it fertilises ova
No. 3, a hybrid will be the result. The second
generation, therefore, breaks up into three-fourths
tall and one-fourth dwarf. But of the three tails
one only is pure, the other two being hybrids.
If we are dealing with a hybrid " medium," then the
second generation will break up into 50 per cent,
mediums, 25 per cent, talis and 25 per cent, dwarfs.

Influence of Crossing on Yield in Tomatoes. —

To return now to the experiments with Tomatoes
at the New York Agricultural E.xperimental Station,
Mr. Wellington has found that a crop of hybrid
plants of the first generation give a larger yield
than either of the parental forms, or of the succeed-
ing generations after the " break." The results
suggest and seem to warrant the use of first-
generation seed only if the main object be the
production of a heavy crop. Of course, it entails
all the extra care and trouble that artificial fertilisa-
tion means ; but Tomato fruits, as a rule, produce
a large number of seeds, which, so far, is some
compensation against the extra trouble. Tomato
seeds retain their vitality, it is said, for from three
to seven years ; therefore it would only be absolutely
necessary for seed-growers to raise every third
year a sufficient quantity to cover the needs of a
three-year sale. It would appear to be a simple
matter for raisers of Tomato seed to select pure
strains of comparatively heavy croppers and reserve
them for breeding purposes. Those not wanted for
purposes of hybridisation could be kept pure by
self-fertilisation, with the view of keeping up the
stock of hybrid mothers. In this work it must
be remembered that violent crosses — that is, using
parents too widely different — produce not stronger
but weaker offspring. Finally, it is known that a
corrugated form is dominant to a smooth form,
and that a dark red coloration is dominant to
pink, and pink dominant to yellow. Size and
shape are both inherited characters, and extremes,
when mated, tend to produce medium hybrids.
It is also said that earliness is slightly increased by
crossing. D. Houston.

Royal College oj Science tor IreUwd, Dublin.

BITTER-PIT IN APPLES.

RING the hot summer and
autumn of 191 1 there were
numerous complaints from
various parts of the country
of the prevalence of bitter-
pit in Apples. This was a
rather mysterious disease that caused
sunken, brown spots to appear under the
sldn of many Apples, particularly those
with soft flesh, such as Warner's King.
■Although little had been heard of it in this
country up to that time, it had been very
prevalent in Australia, which, together
with the fact that our summer of 1911 was
exceptionally dry and resembled the Aus-
tralian summers, gave rise to the supposi-
tion that drought was the indirect cause of
the trouble, which also attacks Pears.

We have just received a voluminous but
extremely interesting Report on the subject
from Mr. D. McAlpine, Government Vege-
table Pathologist to the Department of
.\griculture for Victoria, .Australia. Mr.
McAlpine has been investigating bitter-pit
in Apples for some years, and the volume
we have before us is his First Progress
Report. In our issue for December 2, 1911, we pub-
lished an illustration of an .-^pple Tower of Glamis
attacked by this disease, and we reproduce this again,
so that those readers not familiar with it may get
an idea of the external appearance of a fruit so
attacked. Mr. McAlpine has come to the con-
clusion that bitter-pit arises from some derange-
ment of the vascular system of the Apple ; and as
the matter is one of importance to fruit-growers
in this and other countries, we publish his letter,
together with the summary of the Report that he
sends us and two illustrations from the very
numerous and interesting collection that is to be
found in its pages. Mr. McAlpine writes :

" I have much pleasure in forwarding you my
First Progress Report on bitter-pit in Apples,
and although somewhat voluminous, since it clears
the ground for future action, you will be able to
get an idea of the principal points from the table
of contents and from the summary at page 109.
One important point has been already established
as the result of experiments, viz., that oversea
shipments of clean fruit will be free from bitter-pit

February 8, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

69

on reaching its destination if kept at a constant
and sufficiently low temperature, viz., 30° to 32°
Fahr. The fruit was cooled down to 35° Fahr.
and then kept at the above temperature without
fluctuations. The scientific explanation of this
fact is that at 1° or 2° Fahr. below the freezing
point of water, the respiration of the Apple is
suspended, and in this state of suspended animation
or dormancy the development of bitter-pit is
retarded. It would hardly be expected that any-
thing fresh would be found out in such common
objects as the Apple or Pear, and yet I have
discovered a beautiful and delicate vascular net
immediately beneath the skin, which has an impor-
tant bearing on the origin of bitter-pit, and the
purpose of which is to regulate and equalise the
distribution of food material in the area where
the greatest and most rapid growth necessarily
takes place." (See illustration on page 68.)

The summary in the Report referred to is as
follows :

" It is a fundamental principle of pathology that
the normal structure and functions of the part
(tr organ concerned sliould be determined as far
as possible, in order that the abnormal conditions
may be properly understood.

The structure and functions of the Apple and
Pear were therefore investigated, with the result
tliat, on the removal of the skin and flesh after
softening, there remained a delicate skeleton
and vessels as a model of the whole, ramifying
through and permeating every portion of the fruit,
supplying the seed-vessels and the flesh with
liquid nourishment, and forming a network of
vessels immediately beneath the skin. This
vascular network was found to originate in the
earliest stages of the fruit, and continues to expand
with the enlarging flesh.

It is shown that neither insects nor fungi,
bacteria, nor external agencies, such as spraying,
are concerned in the production of bitter-pit.
Bitter-pit is seen to be an internal disease, due to
internal causes, and always found associated
with the discoloured vascular bundles. ' Crinkle,'
or ' pig face,' or ' hoUow .Apple ' is shown to be a
confluent form of bitter-pit, every gradation being
observed from pit to slight and advanced crinkle.
Large cavities are formed by the rupture of the
tissue, owing to rapid and excessive growth at
the periphery. Diseases found associated with
bitter-pit were ' black spot.' ' bitter rot,' ' glassi-
ness ' or ' water core.' and ' mouldy core '

.\ppearances mistaken for bitter-pit were hail-
marks, bruised skin, effects produced by chemical
reagents and local poisoning. Pitted Apples are pro-
duced on unsprayed trees, and a chemical analysis of
such Apples revealed no trace of mineral poisons.

It was found, as far as my investigations go,
that the key to the solution of the bitter-pit problem
lay in the wonderful vascular system which
permeates the ' core ' and the ' flesh,' and the
marvellous network of vessels just beneath the
skin, their function being to regulate and equalise
the distribution of food material at the periphery
of the fruit, where the greatest and most rapid
growth normally takes place.

The brown spots of bitter-pit are generally first
formed in the zone occupied by the vascular net,
of which there is not only ocular demonstration
in the position of the tough brown spots still
adhering to the -Apple in which the network is
shown (Fig. 2), but in the figure of the Apple
reproduced direct from the object itself. There
is also a striking confirmation of this in the fact

has been noted by competent observers in Europe,
America and .Africa, even although the existence
of the network was unknown to them. The earliest
external appearance of bitter-pit was noticed when
the fruit was about the size of a Walnut, but it
generally occurs when the fruit is about half grown
or approaching matiunty. It generally occurs
in the upper half of the fruit and towards the
■ eye ' end, and this is correlated with the openings
in the skin being much more numerous in the upper
than in the under portions. Chemical analysis
shows that there is less water in the flesh of the
upper portion. The larger number of openings
will necessarily allow more active transpiration
to go on at the ' eye ' end than at the stalk end,
and, owing to this extra transpiration, there is
less water in the flesh at the top.

Bitter-pit may be associated with wet or drv
seasons, so long as they are intermittent and
fluctuating in their character at the critical period

tree and the fruit formed may be controlled to a
large extent by cultivation, manuring, including
green manuring, irrigation, the stocks used and the
method of pruning. The relation of each of these
factors to the development of bitter-pit is being
determined by means of experiments. Young and
vigorous trees making rapid growth may have
pitted fruit, from the rapid transpiration and
excessive growth interfering with the regular
development of the vascular network. A light
crop, with abnormally large fruit, is more liable
to pit than a heavy crop of average-sized fruit
equally distributed over the tree."

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

IRIS VARTANII.

This winter-flowering Iris of the reticulata section
is not nearly as widely known or grown as it

.\ BE.\UTIFUL IRIS (l. V..iRT.\NII) FOR THE .\LPINE HOUSE.

of growth. The principal contributing factors to , deserves to be. Its flowering season is from

bitter-pit are : I October to January, and as an Iris for growing in

(i) Intermittent weather conditions when the ; pans to brighten the alpme-house in the dull winter

fruit is at a critical period of growth. I days it has few equals. When grown outside, it

(2) Amount and rapidity of transpiration. should be given a favoured position imder a wall

(3) Sudden checking of the transpiration at | or a sheltered niche in the rock garden, while it

night, when the roots are still active owing
to the heat of the soil.

(4) Failure of supplies at the periphery of the
fruit, followed by spasmodic and irregular
recovery.

(5) Inequality of growth, so that the vascular
network controlling the distribution of
nutritive material is not regularly formed.

(6) Fluctuations of temperature when fruit is
in store ; and

(7) Nature of variety.
The weather cannot be controlled (except in

so far as a smoke-blanket is allowed to drift over

is one of those plants showing a decided preference
for a light soil. The chief colour of the flowers is
a slaty blue, the broad falls being almost white,
copiously veined with a lavender hue and having
a very pretty yellow crest. The erect standards
are slaty blue. This Iris is a native of Palestine,
and is named after Dr. Vartan of Nazareth.

that the same place of origin of the brown spot the orchard on frosty nights), but the soil and the

A CICILIAN CROCUS.

(Crocus cilicicus lilacinus.)

A PRETTV late-flowering Crocus is that called
C. cilicicus, which Maw in his " iMonograph "
refers to the species C. cancellatus. It is the

70

THE GARDEN.

[February 8, iqi^.

A NEW MINIATURE NARCISSUS, N. MINI-
CYCLA. (Natural size.)

Cilician form of cancellatus, and it differs but
slightly from the type. There are several varieties
of this CUician Crocus, generally of different shades
of blue. The one named above is of a pale lUac,
and looks very pleasing on rockwork in the late
autumn and winter. This Crocus seems to open
with but a moderate amount of sunshine. S. A.

and there, some tufts of that beautiful pink Linum
viscosom growing together with them, and dark
brown Serapias longipetala and bright yellow
Coronillas, all these together under the brilliant sun
of Italy. You will have an idea of the charming
apparition. And then, in the shady and grassy
places, fields of the marvellous cardinal red Lilium
carniolicum, framed by the deep pink Epimedium
alpinum, the rocks being covered with Phyteuma
humile and P. comosum, with the deep blue
Paederota and the delicate Saxifraga cassia, every
kind of colour and tint, and all in masses
in myriads, every rock coloured and adorned, and
you will have a little idea of my emotion.

Lithospermum graminifolium is, in my opinion,
far better than the Pyrenean L. prostratum.
The elegance of the flower and the beautiful pure,
deep azure of the long, tubular corolla are un-
surpassable ; but the best of it is that it is
the easiest to grow. We have in the wall of Floraire
two tufts of it measuring 2 feet to 3 feet in diameter,
which are indescribable in beauty and vigour.
They were singly planted between the stones of
the wall in a very sunny place. The plant likes
sun, of course, and does not stand well in the misty
and damp climates.

Another very good Lithospermum is rosmarini-
folium, from the Abruzzis in South Italy. It
flowers in early spring, and again in late autumn,
and has deep blue flowers. But it is not quite
hardy with us. L. fruticosum, from the South
of France, is a hardy kind, and forms
little bushes of 2 feet to 3 feet, with deep blue
flowers. L. prostratum is not good here, as we
have too much chalk in the ground and in the
water. Two creeping sorts of the Pyrenees, L.
olaefolium and L. Gastonis, are easy growers, the
first having pink and blue flowers and silver whitish
leaves, and the other is a low
herbaceous kind, with deep, big
flowers. The first likes the
rockery and a sunny place
between the stones ; the second,
a peaty soil, half shady.

H. CORREVON.

Floraire, near Geneva.

LILIES: A CAUSERIE.

{Continued from page 47.)

The many forms of L. Martagon are not made
as much of as they deserve. Though they prefer
a sunny, open border, there are few corners in a
garden where they will not settle down and make
themselves at home, whether it be in semi-wild
grass or in thin shade under trees. The common
pink type is the dullest of the forms, but even that
varies greatly, and some pretty pearly pink forms,
as well as deeper ones, may be selected. I should
like to be in the hay meadows around Modane
when the Martagons are ablow. I have only seen
their fat buds just appearing in pendent bunches,
but from the variety of coloiu's they wore at that
early stage, shading from yellowish green to nearly
black, and from the variation in the amount of
white down that covered some and the shining,
glabrous surface of others, they promised a rich
array of varieties. I did, however, secure one
treasure from that neighbourhood. While scram-
bling on the rocky southern hillside behind a little
frontier town, searching for butterflies chiefly,
I espied in a garden a group of Martagons witli
curiously pale golden leaves. A closer inspection
through the gaps of the fence showed it was not
diseased, but a distinctly golden-leaved form.
It appeared to be growing in the garden of the
Douane, and, as I was not very certain then as to
the attitude the officials took to the collecting and
posting of plants, I was daunted, and waited to .ask
mine host of the inn if he could get me a bulb in
autumn. This he promised to do, the Chef de
Douane being his very good friend. However,
no bulb came, so on my next visit I plucked up all
my courage, my best manners, and wliat I call my
French. Anything in h'S garden was at my

LITHOSPERMUM GRAMINIFOLIUM.

Some years ago I was ascending the very humble
Mount Summano up to Sohio, near Vicenza in
High Italy, The ground was then covered with
rare Orchids. It was just the best time for them
(June), and I gathered there many charming
species in the world of Serapias, Ophrys and Orchis.
Suddenly before my eyes arose the most exquisite
sight I ever saw. Like in a dream, in a heavenly
dream, I saw a blue picture, fringed with pink,
formed by a mass of deep azure flowers. " What is
this?" I said to the Italian friend who was at my
side. " I do not know," he answered, so I hastened
and hastened till I was at the slope which was so
adorned with the blue, and saw it was the exquisite
Lithospermum graminifolium, a gem I cultivated
for years, but which I had not yet found wild.
This made such an impression upon my mind that
I shall never forget it. Imagine thousands of
millions of such long and thin deep azure flowers,
all close to each other, all together pressed on
the tuft of grass-like foliage, so dense that no place
was free for the foliage. And imagine, still, here

FLOWER GARDEN.

A MINIATURE HYBRID
NARCISSUS.

(Narcissus minicycla.)

This interesting Uttle hybrid, re-
produced life-size on this page,
was raised by crossing Narcissus
minimus with N. cyclamineus. The
hybrid, raised from seed sown in
190S, is almost intermediate, be-
tween the two parents, and a
detailed description of it appeared
in last week's issue on page 60
under " New and Rare Plants."
An award of merit was granted to
this novelty by the Royal Horticul-
tural Society on January 21, and
this, we believe, is the earliest
date on which a Narcissus has ever
gained an award. The hybrid was
raised by Mr. F. Herbert Chapman
of Rye, and we understand that
it has now passed into the hands
of Messrs. Barr and Sons, through
whom it will be distributed.

RUSTIC rOLES ARRANGED IN A BED AS SUPPORTS FOR
RAMBLER ROSES. SEE THE EFFECT ON THE NEXT PAGE.

February 8, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

71

disposal, but, arrived witliin view of my golden
treasure, alas ! it was not on his property. That
little stone marked the boundary, and beyond it
was the garden of the Barracks ! I despaired ;
my companion said " Courage." He would conduct
mc to a sous-officer who directed the horticulture,

is, I think, the best. I find they require a mulch
and watering In dry weather just before coming
into flower, otherwise they flag on hot days and
the lower whorls of leaves do not recover, but die
off and spoil the general effect. The parent I..
Hansonii is a grand acquisition for a partially-

and so, after much more bowing and hat-raising i shaded spot. It appears to be very easily satisfied
than I had ever achieved before in so short a space i as to soil, provided it is deeply planted and gets

of time, the bemedalled martial director of horti-
culture sent for a pleasant old blue-blonsed gardener
with a huge spiide that looked as if it h.id been
cut out of a giant's pack of cards. The Lilies were
attacked, and I acquired three and their history.
Ihat related how one plant was found on the
mountains and, brought to the garden many years
ago, had increased to form this glowing patch.
Of course, it was not very good for
them to be lifted just at ffowering-
time and sent off on the long journey
to England, but I have hopes they
will recover it and be as beautiful
here as they appeared to be on Mont
Cenis. The beauties of the Martagon
family are album, the pure white, and
the deep claret L. dalmaticum. The
former of these is a very old garden
plant, and w.is praised by Parldnson
as " being altogether of a fine white
colour, without any spots, or but
few, and that but sometimes also."

Then, as now, a form existed with
flowers of a poorer quality of white,
and speckled with dull purple towards
the centre. Being so easily raised
from seed, it is always likely that
inferior forms will be found in any
large stock of it ; so in buying"white
Martagons it is best to make as sure
as possible of getting those of the fine
white colour. Parkinson also wTitcs
of the Blush Martagon, " whose flowers
are wholly of a delayed flesh colour
with many spots on the flowers."
This I believe I have, and it is a very
charming plant. I got it from an
old garden near here that was deserted
and had gone wild.

The deep purple dalmaticum is a
noble Lih-, but all too seldom seen.
I know a garden in which a bulb of
It throws up annually a 5-foot stem,
bearing a great number of deep claret
crimson flowers, just on the edge of a
shrubbery bordering a lawn, where it
looks as though it had been undis-
turbed for many years. I know
nothing of quite the same deep colour-
ing at its season of flowering, and it
gives a fine note of colour, especially
when the sunlight shines through it.
Here I find it takes some years to get established and
flower well. From tliis and L. Hansonii the hand-
some hybrid L. Dalhansouii was raised. The blend-
ing of orange with the purple has produced a curious
deep chocolate-coloured Lily more or less spotted
with orange. It is not so fine a thing as L. dal-
maticum, perhaps, liut seems to possess a good
constitution, and I grow a group of it in front
of the Ceanothus mentioned previously, and like the
effect of their contrasted colourings. Another
wedding in the same family — that of Miss Blanche
Martagon and Mr. Hansonii — has given us the
various hybrids called .Marhan, fine effective young
people of various buff and orange shades and more
or less speckled. The one known as Miss Willmott

a fair share of moisture in the growing season,
and its clear orange shade is wonderfully effective
among Ferns and other plants with a taste for
semi-shade. It is often called the Japanese
Martagon, but is not of true Martagon shape,
as the segments of the flower do not curve inward
in the same way to form the Turk's-cap — the
martagan— the form of turban worn by Sultan

THE ROSE

GROWING

GARDEN.

RUSTIC

ROSES OVER
POLES.

of the most effective ways of
growing rambling Roses is to train
them over rustic poles. Nothing
could be easier ; the idea is sim-
plicity itself, and is excellent for
both large and small gardens.
A glance at the two accompanying illustrations
will readily explain the principle. In the first of
them we see large rustic poles arranged more or
less in the manner of a tripod, being wired together
at the top. .^t the base it will be observed are

O'

ROSE ELISE ROBICHON GROWING OVER RUSTIC
TRATION ON THE OPPOSITE PAGE.

POLES SIMILAR TO THOSE SHOWN IN THE ILLUS
PLANTING MAY STILL BE DONE.

Mohammed I., from which the name is derived.
I hope the forthcoming supplement to Elwes'
" Lilies," of which little birds already sing in

planted rambling Roses, and these, with an
occasional tie, are being trained to clothe the
rustic poles. In the second illustration we see a

horticultural inner circles, will make clear and , rambling Rose in its full glory, with scarcely a
plain for us the at present confused identity or trace of the rusticwork visible. Surely a rambler

distinction of L. avenaceum and L. medeoloides.
Mr. Grove already tells us in his little foretaste
book that the figiure of L. avenaceum in the Mono-
graph must be taken to be I., medeoloides ; best of
all, that this little gem can be grown well in lime-free
leaf-mould in slight shade. It was, I suppose, this

could not be shown to greater advantage than this.
In this method of culture there are two salient
points to bear in mind. In the first place, it should
not be overlooked that rambling Roses, above all
others, respond to deep cultivation, an important
matter if it is hoped that they will attain a good

Lily that was confused v/ith L. Hansonii when that ^ height. Secondly, the poles must be made secure

golden beauty made its dibut in English gardens, j and well fixed in the ground ; they must be per-

Waltham Cross. E. A. Bowles. \ fectly rigid before plantmg. Roses may still be

{To be cmitinued.) \ planted, but owing to the mildness of the season

72

THE GARDEN.

[February 8, 1913.

and the subsequent forwardness of plant-life, we
advise readers not to delay planting longer
than can reasonably be helped. Any of the
rambling Roses may be grown in the manner
described. The wichuraianas are especially suit-
able, such, for instance, as Dorothj' Perkins and
Jersey Beauty, and the same may be said of
Dundee Rambler and Longworth Rambler, to men-
tion only a few among a multitude of others.
The second illustration is that of the variety Elise
Robichon, one of the best of the wichuraianas for
this purpose.

SOME OF THE NEWER HYBRID TEA
ROSES.

(Continued from page 59.)
Mabel Drew (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1911). —
This, an excellent exhibition variety, will fill a
decided want as a good cream-coloured bedding
Rose also. I have always considered, taking it
all round, that Mrs. David M'Kee was the best
Rose of its colour for this purpose and a Rose that
was not half enough appreciated ; but now Mabel
Drew will displace Mrs. David M'Kee, having
rather more colour in its flowers and being a more
continuous' flowerer. Mrs. David M'Kee had, it
is true, three distinct periods of flower ; but Mabel
Drew promises to beat that, being practically in
flower from June till November. Its flowers are
large, of good shape, sweet scented, and held erect
above good foliage that appears to be almost
mildew-proof.

Mme. Segond-Weber (Soupert et Notting,
igo8). — This is a beautiful Rose of a good clear
salmony pink in colour, free-flowering, a good
grower of nice habit, producing a beautiful long
bud that makes an excellent button-hole. A great
favourite with me. It has a delicious perfume,
and as a bedder can be strongly recommended as
being the best Rose of its colour, easy to grow and
with no bad fault.

Margaret MolyneUX (.Alex. Dickson and Sons,
igog). — This is not a Rose that will appeal to
everyone ; it has too few petals, being only semi-
double, but at its best it is a Rose of exquisite
colouring. It produces its flowers freely in trusses
of tliree to five blooms. These should be cut
quite young and allowed to expand in water. The
colour varies from pale saffron yellow, shaded
apricot and peach, but ^fades to crimson in the sun.
A great favourite for table decoration.

Melody (Alex. Dickson and Sons, igri). — This
is a Rose that seems to have caught on in America
grown under glass ; outdoors with me in Hampshure
it was quite satisfactory. The flowers are not
large, but very beautiful in shape and colour,
and are freely produced on good long shoots. It
will prove one of our best bedding yellows, I think.
It has the further advantage of being mildew-proof,
and is deliciously scented.

Miss Cynthia Forde (Hugh Dickson, 1909).—
I referred to this Rose under exhibition varieties,
but it will take a very high place as a bedding
Rose, and although there are many pinks, I am
inclined to say this is the best of them all, and is
to be preferred even to Caroline Testout or Lady
Ashtown. It is a gold medal Rose of much
merit.

Mrs. Alfred Tate (S. McGredy and Son, 1909).—
This is one of the most beautiful Roses for table
decoration that wc have, and now that it is down
to normal prices should find a place in every
garden where such Roses are wanted. It also
.■nakes an excellent button-hole in the bud stage.

It has not many petals, but it keeps its shape well,
and its colour is best described as coppery shaded
fawn. I do not think it was ever staged for the
National jRose Society's gold medal, but it has
received "the Royal Horticultural Society's award
of merit and was awarded a gold medal at the
Bagatelle Trials'at Paris in 1910.

Mrs. Amy Hammond (S. McGredy and Son,
igii). — See page 589, November 23, 1912, " Exhi-
bition Varieties." A Rose to be obtained at the
earliest opportunity.

Mrs. Arthur R. Waddell (Pernet-Ducher.
1908). — Really outside the date (1909-12), but I
think I ought to make a passing reference to the
fine colouring of this Rose. Of neat habit, not
very vigorous, it is a pretty bedding Rose ;
colour, deep salmon rose on copper. An
excellent long-pointed bud, very useful for house
decoration.

Mrs. Frank Worltman (Hugh Dickson, 1911). —
This is a good grower and a fine decorative Rose
of good habit, flowers held erect ; colour, a clear
deep rose pink. Very free-flowering as seen at
Belmont. It received a card of commendation at
Salisbury in 1910.

Mrs. Fred Straker (Alex. Dickson and Sons,
1910). — Another very beautiful button-hole Rose,
with that delightful spiral twist to the petals that
gives such a look of perfect finish to the flower. Not
large, but of excellent shape, very sweetly scented ;
a colour that varies from orange in the bud to
silvery fawn in the older flower. .A good, erect
grower and a " fascinating " Rose for table
decoration.

Mrs. Richard Draper (Hugh Dickson, 1912). —

See page 611, December 7, 1912, "Exhibition
V.arieties."

Mrs. Wakefield Christie Miller (S. McGredy
and Son, 1910). — A great Paony-hke flower of
bicolor tints, soft blush pink on the inside of the
petal, with deep rose on the outside. A bed makes
a great splash of colour, but there is not much
shape about the individual flower. .A robust
rather than a vigorous grower, so the plants are
best planted thickly. A good decorative variety
for the garden.

Mrs. Walter Baslea (Alex. Dickson and Sons.
1910). — .\ flower not unlike Richmond and
Libertv, but holding its flowers more erect than the
latter variety. It is free-flowering, but I cannot
say that I have found it a great advance on
Richmond.

Southampton. Herbert E. Molvneu.x.

(To be contimied.)

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON VBGE
TABLES.

Sowing Onions. — It is now regarded as necessary
for every amateur and cottager to endeavour to
grow monster Onions, and though they do not
often succeed in producing anything beyond a
modest three-pounder, failure will assuredly not
come for want of strenuous efforts. It is impera-
tive to secure a particularly fine strain of seed ;
but this is not difficult from the advertisers in
The Garden, and a faur price must be paid for it.
For sowing, choose boxes about ten inches deep
and fill them to within an mch of the top firmly
with a mixture of loam and manure, adding sharp
sand or grit at discretion. On the level surface
set the seeds so far asunder that transplantation

to other boxes or a specially-prepared bed in a
frame will not be required, as labour will be saved
in this manner. Stand the box ui a greenhouse
or heated frame, and, immediately the seedlings
appear, put it in a position close to the roof glass
to prevent the slightest chance of drawing. From
the time they are 2 inches high a cold frame
is the best place, but it is absolutely essential
to success that the plants shall not cease steady
advance, as they never fully recover from a
check, even though the cessation be for only six
hours.

Horse-Radish. — It is a cause of some wonder
why Horse-radish, which is so highly appreciated
by many people, is so frequently a nuisance in
gardens. Of course, the reason is that the plant
is treated as unworthy of attention, and it quickly
becomes a pestilential weed. If it were grown on
ridges, a supply would always be readily at com-
mand, which is far from being the case in the
generation-old bed, and the grower would feel
himself in complete control of the situation. The
process is simple. Cut a trench 3 inches deep and
14 inches wide, and fill it firmly with good manure.
Then build up a ridge 10 inches high and 5 inches
wide at the top, and insert slantingly along each
side, at distances of 8 inches, whips 4 inches long
and about as thick as a pencil. In the late summer
and autumn there will be plenty of excellent
produce to dig, and a fresh ridge can be made each
season, the length varying, of course, with the
demand.

Seed Potatoes. — It is most important that the
tubers which are under process of sprouting prior
to planting shall be kept quite cool now, or the
shoots will be weak. Provide them with as much
light as possible, and see that they have plenty of
fresh air. If the trays are in a room with light
coming from one side only, turn them daily, and
if they are stacked to economise space, bring the
sets from the middle to the sides at least once a
week. Bear in mind that frost must be excluded
from the place, or disaster is inevitable.

Early Peas. — Those who can afford the space in
a frame or greenhouse should sow a few seeds of
a fast-podding, dwarf, marrowfat Pea at once in
boxes. A little trouble is entaUed, but with
proper care the results are so excellent that the
return is profitable. The boxes may be 6 inches
wide, 4 niches deep and of any length that may
be convenient. Make provision for drainage,
fill with light soil and sow the seeds thuily. To
encourage germination there should be gentle
heat ; but, as soon as it is safe to do so after the
seedlings show through, put the box in a cold frame
to favour hardy progress until the plants can be
put out in April. If a sowing is made out of doors
of the same variety on a warm border, the plants
from seeds sown under glass will yield pickings
from fourteen to twenty days earlier. This last-
mentioned sowmg must be done before the end
of the month in any case if it is within the bounds
of possibility.

Longpod Beans. — It is also necessary to make
a sowing of a good variety of Longpod Beans as
soon as the state of the weather and the soil will
permit. The plants are usually grown in double
lines, and the drill, or shallow trench, for the seeds
ought to be not less than 12 inches wide, the seeds
being set 3 inches asunder i inch from the sides.
When the seedlings are big enough to prove which
are the best, thin them out to 5 inches. The soil
covering above the seeds may be 2 inches or 3 inches
deep. H. J.

Februauy 8, IQ13.]

THE GAEDEN.

73

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

LILIUMS IN UNDRAINED PANS OF MOSS FIBRE.

THE accompanying illustration shows
the good results which attended my
tirst experiment at growing Liliums
in vases of carbonated fibre without
drainage, a method of culture to be
recommended, provided {as is neces-
sary with all the spring-flowering bulbs) that
care is taken to avoid overwatering. The following
were tried : L. longiflorum, L. giganteum
speciosum, L. Melpomene, L. Kraetzeri,
L. tigrinum Fortunei and L. auratum, all
of which flowered most sat'Sfactorily.
Further proof of this treatment suiting the
Liliums was the extreme freedom with
which the bulbs had rooted, so much so
that, after flowering and the stems being
cut down, it was difficult to remove the
old bulbs intact. Probably if they bad
been left undisturbed and kept moderately
dry until early spring, the speciosums would
have again flowered well the next season.

Now is a good time to plant for this
purpose, using a vase 7 inches or 8 inches
in diameter ; and since Liliums always emit
roots from the stems as well as from the
base of the bulb, they should be placed so
that their tops are covered with the moss
fibre at least 2 inches. Press the fibre
moderately firmly, and if at all dry, moisten
well. Stand either in a light or dark but
cool place, bearing in mind that as the moss
fibre retains moisture much longer than
ordinary potting compost (especially so
when undrained), no further watermg will
be required for several weeks. The variet)-
shown in the illustration, L. tigrinum
Fortunei (Giant Japanese Tiger Lily), is to
be highly recommended, always succeeding
either under glass or outdoors, where it
thrives equallj' well in sim or partial
shade, being especially effective when
planted about two feet apart in groups.
L. tigrinum Fortunei is considerably more
handsome and vigorous than the old form
of L. tigrinum, the growths, of which two
or more are usually produced, attaining
an average height of 5 feet. The moss
fibre suiting all the above varieties of
Lil'-ums so well, I propose this seasop also
trying it mixed with the same quantity
of ordinarj' compost for pot culture ;
while, when planting Liliums in the op?n
ground, it is quite anticipated that 2 inches
or 3 inches of this material placed both
below and over the bulbs would suit most
varieties admirably. V.

require a good heat in their young stages of growth.
They must be grown quickly, but, of course, not
unduly forced. A day temperature of 65° and one
of 58° at night answer the purpose admirably
in March. Sow the seeds now in a light,
sandy compost, fibrous loam and sweet leaf-soil
in equal proportions serving the purpose well.
Pots or pans may be used, and the drainage must

let it remain rather loose in the pans, as the water
applied will firm it sufficiently. Rapid growth
then results. The young plants must be repotted
directly they require it, so as to induce a branching
habit. Use well-rotted manure in the compost
after the first pricking out of the seedlings.
When buds form, feed judiciously and admit
more air. The leaves form a beautiful setting to
the Camellia-like flowers. Sh.\mrock.

HOW TO POT TUBEROSES.

The Tuberose, when properly treated,
grows and flowers freely, but many tubers
are spoiled during their early stages of
growth through wTong treatment. Fre-
quently one sees plants very tall, weakly
of stem and bacUy flowered, many
individual flower-buds not developing as
they ought to. Some cultivators place
the tubers in small pots, and then repot
the growing plants in due time ; others
put them in the flowering pots at once.
I favour potting in 3j-inch pots, and then
repotting when the pots are getting well
filled with roots. Nearly every tuber,
possesses several " eyes " "or buds on the
sides. These must all be carefully picked
out with the aid of a knife before the
tubers are potted. If this is not done,
the yoimg side shoots grow through the
soil in the pots and their removal is a
difficult matter. These young shoots are
valueless as regards the bearing of
flowers, and if left on greatly weaken the
main stem which does bear flowers.

A suitable compost is one formed of
fibrous loam, two parts ; leaf-soil, one
part ; and well-rotted manure, one part,
with plenty of sand added. When the
tubers are potted, some sand should
be placed under and around each one.
Press down the soil firmly with the
fingers, and leave one-third of the tuber
exposed above the soil in the pot. If
the compost is moderately moist, it
wUl be in good condition. Do not water
until some roots are forming and new
growth has started. If the pots can be
placed on a warm base, new growth will
soon commence. The temperature should
range about 60° until the new stems
are nearly a foot high ; then more air
must be admitted. Avon.

HOW TO GROW BALSAMS. a

When well grown, a batch of Balsam plants
maxes a brilliant display in the greenhouse
or conservatory, and are strong rivals to the
tuberous Begonias. The Balsam was very ex-
tensively grown twenty years ago ; then there
seemed to be a falling off in the general appre-
ciation ; but of late it has again found much
favour, as the plants have been proved to be
useful in dry borders as well as in the green-
house. It is a half-hardy annual, easily raised
from seeds, and so there is no necessity for
the wintering of stock. Although the plants
will do so well in the tjpen air in summer, they

GIANT TIGER LILY, LILIUM TIGRINUM FORTU
GROWN IN AN UNDRAINED BOWL OF FIBRE.

be ample. Sow the seeds an inch apart and biury
them a quarter of an inch deep. Keep the soil
moderately moist and the seed-pots in a warm
position ; if not on the top of a hot-bed in a frame,
then in a warm place on the stage in the greenhouse.
The stems of both seedlings and flowering
plants are succulent, and consequently a con-
stantly saturated condition of the soil is undesir-
able. Transplant the seedlings early, using a
similar compost to that recommended for the
raising of the seedlings, and do not make it firm ;

HOW TO PREPARE SOIL IN
A ROSE-BED.

Very often the tiie.'cperienced cultivator
NEI, can, in imagination, see his trees growing
in the bed before he plants them. He
then procures the trees and plants them
in dug-out holes, and the following year the
growth is not very satisfactory. Before any
planting is done the soil should be trenched at
least 2 feet deep all over the bed, and if it is very
poor a quantity of rotted manure may be mixed
with the soil 6 inches below the surface. When
the trees are planted, if they are standards they
must be held securely in position by short stakes
and a thin mulch of litter put on. Heavy
winter dressings of cold, wet manure do more
harm than good to newly-planted Roses. B.

74

THE GARDEN.

[February 8, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR

SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Seeds of Bedding Plants to be sown at once
include Centaureas, Cineraria maritima, Antirrhi-
nums, fibrous and tuberous rooted Begonias,
Chamffipeuce, Wigandia, Pentstemons and Cyperus
natalensis.

Fuchsias are among the finest of all subjects
for summer bedding, and young plants rooted m
the autumn and potted off singly should now be
ready for another shift forward, this time mto
44-inch pots. By this means really good specimens
4 feet high may be had by early June.
Plants Under Glass.

Gloxinias.— Some of the older tubers should now
be shaken out from the old sod, and these, if placed
in shallow boxes and partially covered with very
light soil, will soon begin to make growth m a warm
house. As soon as sufficiently well rooted, they
should be potted direct into their flowering pots.

Begonias. — Where early plants of these are de-
sired, they may be treated as above, but they should
not be started in quite so much heat as Gloxinias,
an intermediate temperature being more in keeping
with their requirements.

Caladium Argyrites and other small-foliaged
varieties may also be started in boxes, potting off
as soon as the young growths get an inch or so high.
Quite small bulbs make the best plants eventually,
if care is taken to give a slight pot on when necessary.

Seed-Sowing. — Various seeds should now be
sown including Begonias, Gloxinias, Streptocarpus,
Medeola, Grevilleas, DraciEna australis and Aspara-
gus plumosa and A. Sprengeri. Needless to say, great
care is necessary in the sowing and attention to
the smaller seeds, and these should be covered with
glass in the propagating-frame till the seedlings
appear above the surface.

Propagation by Cuttings.— Various occupants
of the stove root readily at this season, and cuttings
of Crotons, Dracajnas, Panax, Pandanus, Panicum,
Acalyphas and Dieffenbachias should be got m as
space in the propagating-frame permits. A quick-
rooting compost of peat, leaf-soil and silver sand
should be used for the above subjects, placmg the
cuttings in small pots with a fairly warm bottom-
heat. "Most of them should be ready for removal
in from fourteen to twenty-one days.

The Rose Garden.

Manure-Water.— During indd weather liquid
manure from the farmyard tank may with advantage
be given to the Rose-beds. At this season the
gromid will take it much more readily than
during the summer, and if the tank is emptied
after rain, there is not much danger of the Uquid
manure being too strong. It may seem superfluous
to apply liquid at this season of the year, but it is
certainly making good use of manure which would
probably be wasted.

Freshly-Planted Trees.— Look well after these,
treading the soil well about them after frost. Teas
and others that may have been protected by having
the soU dra%vn up to them should be looked over
occasionally, the unusually mild fore part of the
winter having kept them in a very soft condition,
and I have noticed that it is the later frosts which
do the most damage.

The Kitchen Garden.

Ground Work. — Press on with this as long as
the weather keeps open, reserving such work as
preparing stakes and burning rubbish till frost
drives one off the ground.

Preparing Composts for Frames.— This is ano-
ther of the jobs that can be done during wet or even
hard weather, providmg a good open shed is avail-
able. Old hot-bed material, Mushroom manure,
well-decayed leaves, wood-ashes and a fair propor-
tion of loam will make a good compost for growing
Carrots, Lettuce, Turnips, Beans and Potatoes in
frames, keeping it under cover, if possible, till it is
required.

Spring Cabbage. — FiU up anv blanks during
favourable weather and give the bed a good hoe-
ing occasionaUy, the loose surface allowing the
soil to get the full benefit of whatever sun there is.
The same remark applies to any other growing
crops, such as autumn-suwn Onions and Spinach.

Fruits Under Glass.

Vine Borders. — By this time some of tie earher-
started houses with inside borders may be requiring
water, and though they must not be allowed to
continue dry, care should be taken to apply water
only when the outside conditions are favourable.
.Although I do not think that water straight from
the tap later on in the season is at all detrimental,
it is safer at this season to apply only water that
has been standing in the house some time, or by
some other means has been raised to a temperature
of from 55° to 60°, this, of course, only applying
to houses containing Vines forward in growth.
Vines in houses that are being shut up will not be
hurt by using cold water.

Disbudding Peaches and Nectarines.— The
earliest trees will probably be pushing into good
growth rather quickly now, and as soon as the
shoots are forward enough to handle, disbudding
must commence. Nearly every grower will have
his own system of disbudding, but I would point
out that to keep the trees well furnished it is quite
necessary to encourage young growths as far back
on the old wood as possible.

Pot Trees. — Very little disbudding is necessary
with pot trees, but to keep them as small as possible
the shoots on last year's growths may be rubbed off
down to where the fruit is nicely set, and some of
these may even be taken off the extremities of
the shoots, thereby diminishing the size of the tree,
the remaining shoots being stopped as necessary
to build the tree and to concentrate its energy
into the fruit.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Gooseberries. — These are breaking into growth
uncommonly early, and pruning should be under-
taken at once. Nothing is gained by having the
trees too thick, a well-trimmed tree generally carry-
ing a good crop and being much easier to gather
the fruit from. In nearly all instances. Gooseberries
have to be protected from the birds, and where
they are not enclosed in a wire cage, the trees,
after pruning, should be sprayed with a fairly strong
solution of soft soap, immediately afterwards
giving them a good dusting aU over with quite
freshly-slaked quicklime. I have never known
this to fail to keep the birds from taking the buds.
Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Antirrhinums. — These popular flowers now
play an important part in our gardens, whether
large or small. They have much to recommend
them, being inexpensive, easy of cultivation,
highly floriferous, having a long flowering period,
and furnishing a great variety of colour. They
should be sown within the next ten days in boxes
in moderate heat, and pricked off about two inches
apart as soon as the first pair of rough leaves
are formed. They can be had tall, medium and
dwarf. The mediums are the most useful, arid
the following can be recommended : Carmine
Pink, Bright Pink, DeUcate Pink, Apricot, Orange
King, Fire King and Brilliance ; also crimson,
yellow and white sells.

Propagation by Cuttings.— The propagation

of bedding plants bv cuttings should now proceed
apace. These will" include Geraniums, Paris
Daisies, Ageratums, Heliotropes, Lobelias and
Salvias. Geraniums must, of course, have abun-
dance of air, but all the foregoing will root readily
whenever they can have the benefit of a brisk
temperature with plenty of moisture and a close
atmosphere.

Jasminimi nudiflorum. — This attractive winter-
flowering wall plant will now be out of bloom,
and should be pruned forthwith. Cut away a
number of the old shoots to make room for the
young growth, as it is on this that the next winter's
crop of bloom will be borne.

Polygonum baldschuaniciun. — This native of

Western Asia is one of our most accommodating
plants, being equally at home on a wall, a pergola,
or the front railing of a villa. If not already done,
it should be pruned now, but not too closely ;

say, to within 6 inches or 8 inches of the frame-
work of the plant. The plant yields two crops
annually of its graceful panicles of pale pink
flowers.

The Rose Garden.

Late Planting. — Where from some unavoidable
cause planting must be delayed beyond the normal
period, the plants should be lifted now and heeled
in behind a north wall or hedge to retard growth,
so that the plants shall not be unduly checked
when planted in their permanent quarters.

Stocks for Standards. — Those who propose to
work stocks for standards or half-standards should
search the hedgerows for suitable material and
have them planted and staked in the reserve
garden.

Plants Under Glass.

Slugs, like the poor, are ever with us. They
are very partial to the blooms of Dendrobiums and
CcElogynes. At night, by the aid of a lamp, is
the time to catch them red-handed.

Zonal Pelargoniums. — Those that flowered
during the autumn and early winter, if cut back
now and rested for a few weeks, will make a brave
show during the summer. Prior to cutting them
back, the points of the shoots should be utilised
for cuttings for next winter's supply.

Fruits Under Glass.

Ventilation. — This should receive very careful
attention, for three good reasons : First, shade
and sunshine alternate very rapidly at this season ;
secondly, there is great disparity between the •
external and internal temperatures ; and, thirdly,
whenever growth is active it is succulent and tender,
and therefore highly susceptible to sudden fluctua-
tions of temperature. Admit air gradually, at the
top first, and never at the top and front or sides at
the same time. Very little front or side air will
be required for some weeks yet.

Melons. — When the first batch has made
3 inches of growth, the pots should receive a top-
dressmg, care being taken that the sod has been
warmed to the temperature of the Melon-house
before being applied. A. successional sowing
should now be made.

Peaches. — Where these have just set their fruit,
they should be vigorously syringed to remove
all decaying flowers and cleanse the foliage. A
rather higher temperature may now be maintained.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.
American Gooseberry Mildew. — Although I

have had no personal experience of this virulent
disease, I would remind readers that the Board of
Agriculture recommend that whenever there is
any suspicion of the presence of the disease, the
bushes should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture
about a fortnight before the buds begin to open,
and, should rain occur soon after the operation,
it should be repeated.

Strawberries. — Where late runners were taken
and planted in nursery lines, they should be planted
in their permanent quarters as soon as possible.
The rows should be from 2 feet to 2i feet apart,
and the plants 12 inches to rj inches apart in the
row, according to the vigour of the variety.

The Vegetable Garden.

Broad Beans. — A sowing of these should now
be made on a south border, and for this sowing
Early Mazagan is the best. It will be advisable
to coat the seeds with red lead, and a little wood-
ash should be scattered along the drills ; 2 inches
is deep enough to plant.

Rhubarb. — Where young plantations are to
be made, the work should be carried out as soon
as convenient. The ground should be trenched
and well enriched, as Rhubarb is a gross feeder
and is being continually robbed during the growing
season. Daw's Champion and Victoria are two
excellent varieties.

Mint. — The Mint-bed should receive a top-
dressmg of some light, rich compost for the young
roots to feed on.

Lime. — .Although not a fertiliser, lime is valu-
able as a liberator, and most garden soils, if at all
heavy, are benefited by light dressings of it. Some
ground lime should therefore be ready for the
approaching spring weather.

Charles Comkort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

February 8, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

75

NATIONAL DAFFODIL
SOCIETY.

THE letters of Captain Kitchin and Mr.
Carne Ross, which have recently
appeared in The Garden, seem to
point to a feeling which I entirely
reciprocate, viz., that the time has come
when steps should be taken to see if a
National Daffodil Society could not be formed. My
reasons are as follow ;

1. As Mr. Carne Ross says, the Daffodil is to-day
too important a flower in the economy of the garden
to be run as a side-show, even of such an august
society as the Royal Horticultural Society, I
put it a little differently and say it does not seem
to me that we are giving it the honour to which
its merits and commanding position entitle it,
when we do anything less than put it upon the
same level as the Tulip, Rose, Carnation, Auricula,
Chrysanthemum, Sweet Pea and Gladiolus, which
are all enjoying at the present moment the dignity
of a " National." This sentimental reason is with
nie a very'strong one, and if others feel it in anything
like the way I do, it will not be long before it is a
lait accompli. Carthago est delendurn. A National
Daffodil Society must be formed.

2. This feeling of mine would not be in the least
altered if I had found after nearly two years' trial
that the Royal Horticultiu'al Society had done all
that was expected of it in regard to the Daffodil,
In my humble opinion it has been tried and
has been found wanting. I write this in no fault-
finding spirit. I state it as what appears to mc
to be a self-evident fact. The Royal Horticultural
Society lets its hall to the cats and the cooks,
and they do not, I suppose, expect it to run
their shows for them ; why should the poor
Daffodil ? It is not the function of such a society
to " run " one flower more than another. I look
upon it as the mother of all flowers, fruits and
vegetables, and I do not think it should have a
favourite child. Years ago, when valentines were
in fashion, I received one from a dear old aunt of
a hen surrounded by chicks, with the inscription,
" I long to take you under my wing." I think
this would not be a bad crest and motto for our
great society. It so exactly hits off its function
as nurse and protector, even to the ugly duckling,
if the necessity should arise.

3. T give a concrete example of what I mean
by its not being the function of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society to run the Daffodil. As readers
know, a Daffodil show was held in 1912, and I
presume another is to take place in IQ13 ; but up
to the present (January 27) I have had no schedule
sent to me, nor can I hear of anyone who has.
Some little time since I hinted to one of the powers
that be that if there were any schedules they should
be sent round at once, as we ought to have had
them last July. The reply I got was something as
follows : " Send them round ! Who to ? Let
people apply if they want them." Yes, who to ?
All Daffodil-lovers ! How can the Royal Horti-
cultural Society know them even if it wanted to
send them all a schedule ? Then take the second
part of the reply, *' Let people apply if they want
them." How are people to know that there is
to be a show in 1913 ? How are people to know
that they may or must apply if they want a
schedule, or they will get none ? For the Royal
Horticultural Society to expect this (and I presume
from its action in this matter it does do so) is to
expect the cart to pull the horse.

4, By retaining the Barr Cup in its own hands
the committee of the same"looked forward to a time
when a national society would come into being.
As a member of that body I think I may say that
should such an event take place, it would then hand
over the cup to the national society. This is one
reason, but only a small one, for taking the step I
am advocating. More weighty ones are the neces-
sity for legislation, for guidance, for information,
for fostering care, and last, but far from least,
for leadership. These things are wanted in the
Daffodil world. There is a void in the life of the
Daffodil fancier which legitimately calls upon
someone or something to fill it. But there is no
one to hear.

5. I venture to suggest a meeting of Daffodil
people to talk all this over on the morning
of the second day of the Spring Bulb Show —
that is, on Wednesday, March 5. Carthago est
delendurn. Joseph Jacob,

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— 7'A, E-litor intends to
make The Garden helpful to all readers wko desire assist,
ance, no matter ivkat the branch of gardening may be, and
Ufith tftat object will make a special feature of the "Answerg
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and c^yncisely u>ritten on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation h^
may desire to be used iti the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is" useless to send
small scraps that are net characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the PUBLISHER.

FLOWER GARDEN.

WIRE FOR SWEET PEAS (JV!/6m»),— You should
unhesitatingly give the preference to Simplicitas galvanised
iron wire for your Sweet Pea supports, choosing that
of the finest procurable quality. Yes ; horse-manure
from animals bedded in sawdust may be advantageously
used.

INJURY TO ANTIRRHINUMS (N. »F,).— We think the
.Antirrhinums are sulfcring partly from slug attacks,
but at the same time there is apparently a fungus, a
species of Septoria, attacking the foliage. We recommend
you to try spraying with potassium sulphide at the rate
of loz. to three gallons of water. If this does not check
the trouble, write to us again, giving full particulars of
the mode of cultivation and sending further specimens.

PLANTS IN BOXES (H. R. i?.).— The following plants
will be likely to tlirivc in your boxes : Front box —
Hypericum calycinum (evergreen, St. John's Wort,) ;
second bo.x — a mixture of Aucuba japonica and Berberis
Aquifolium, both evergreens ; tlxird box — Jasminum
nudillorum ; and Ampelopsis Veitchii to grow on the wall.
It will be necessary to drain the boxes well and provide
really good loamy soil in the first instance. If the leaves
become very dusty, syringe them occasionally with soft-
soap water, followed by clean water,

FLORISTS' FLOWERS (F. H. IF.).— The florist's type
of Ranunculus is not now in general favour, and the most
likely reason is that public tastes alter as time goes on,
as instance the decline of Balsams and Hyacinths and the
increasing popularity of Carnations and Narcissi, air,
T. Smith of Newry, Ireland, or Messrs. Barr may be able
to supply named varieties, while a post-card would secure
a catalogue from any of the bulb-merchants advertising
in The Garden. Some of the Auriculas you mention
are old kinds and not in general cultivation. Smiling
Beauty was cvhibited in 1877 by the Kev. F. D. Horner
at the Crystal Palace in his first-prize set of twelve, but
is now probably superseded by others. Acme is one of
the best white-edged Auriculas. It has been e.xhibited
141 times in winning stands at the London shows during
the last ten years, which is a first-rate testimonial. Sun-
shine we do not know. Sapphire has a pale yellow tube,
white paste, and violet blue edge. Mrs. Potts has a margin
of violet, but the stem is weak ; and Favourite is, no doubt,
the finest of tliose with a violet edge. There is not much
to choose between Henry Wilson and Shirley Hibberd.
Both are good ; personally, we prefer the latter. Auriculas
have produced more autumn flowers than usual, and growth

has commenced earlier this season owing to the excep-
tionally mild weather. A second-hand bookshop is a
good hunting-ground for old books, but an advertisement
in The Oarden would no doubt bring you some replies,
as such books as you reqiiire are somewhat scarce.

DELPHINIUM SEEDLINGS (,/, B.).—So far as hardiness
is concerned, tlir ^rrillm-s need no protection whatever,
and a frame is fr.(|ui iitly harmful, in that it harbours
slugs, unless these are well looked after. You may
certainly put the seedlings into the frame, but first place in a
few inches of coal-ashes and so raise the boxes that the
plants are kept near the light. Do not close the frame
entirely; allow plenty of air day and night. Dust the
plants and the frame with a httle fresh, dry soot, and it
will render the seedlings distasteful to the pest. Karly
in March plant them in rich, deeply-prepared gardeli
soil, allowing about two feet between the plants for
development. Tims treated, the plants will stand tor
two or more years. We much regret that your letter
has been mislaid.

PLANTS FOR BORDER (E. Chester).— Fov a tall plant
you could not plant anything more suitable than the
Sweet Pea in white, iilue, mauve, cream and pink shades.
This would hide the wall and give you a display of flowers
for many weeks. Prepare a deep trench of soil now 2 feet
from the wall and sow seeds early in March. As the wall
is of red brick, the scarlet shade of Sweet Pea should be
avoided. In front of the Sweet Peas white and pink
lAvateras, Rocket Larkspur, white Tobacco, tall Antir-
rhinums in several colours, Helianthus cucumerifolius
Nigclki, Calliopsis in variety. Poppies and the like should
appear ; while nearer the front Asters, Stocks, Linums,
Chrysanthemum coronarium in variety, C. carinatumi
Sweet Sultan, intermediate Antirrhinums, Statice sinuatai
Phlox Urummondii, .Mignonette, .Marigolds, Candytuft
and other things should be seen. The Antirrhinums
would be best obtained as small plants in March ; the others
could be sown (quite thinly) in their positions. If you
bought a few dozen plants of Pentstemons and Salvia
Clory of Zurich, a brilliant efl'ect would be secured till
the arrival of frosts. The young plants are very cheap.

THE GREENHOUSE.

ALBUCA NELSONIl (.Seeker).— A pot 7 inches in diameter
will be ([uitc large enough for the Albuca, and if the bulb
is too long to bury it completely, it will be better to leave
an inch of the upper part above the ground than to use a
larger pot.

AZALEA MOLLIS DROPPING ITS LEAVES (If. A. C).
— The dropping of the leaves of Azalea mollis clearly
indicates some error of culture. Perhaps the plants are kept
too wet or too dry, or it may be owing to their having been
potted just before they were taken into the greenhouse,
so that the roots had no time to take possession of the new
soil,

ACACIA ARMATA LOOKING BARE (PT. A. C.).—lt
is quite probable that the .\cacia had, previous to your
purchasing it, been grown in a higher temperature than
that in which it now is, and this would be sufficient to
account for the leaves dropping. Excesses of drought or
moisture and great fluctuations of temperature might
also play a part in the matter.

LILIES OF THE VALLEY AFTER FORCING (W. A. C.)
— Those Lilies of the \;l1Ii y tli;ir lia\i- tiiiish' d flowerin"
may be kept in the gririih'jus-- or placed in a frame
where they are safe from frost. They must be watered as
before. Then in May they can be planted out in a
prepared hed. taking care they are not allowed to suffer
from the want of water during the summer. Even then they
will be two or three years before they flower freely, and for
this reason those that have flowered in pots are very often
thrown away.

CYCLAMEN AFTER FLOWERING (W. A. C.).—
.\fter the Cyclamen have done blooming they must still
be kept in the greenhouse, watering them as before till
the leaves turn yellow, when they must be kept drier,
and when totally dormant, water must be almost dis-
continued. When space in the greenhouse is a considera-
tion, the plants may later on be turned out into a frame ;
but at present the risk of severe frosts is too great to do'
this. When dormant they may be kept almost dry till
midsummer, when they should be shaken clear of the old
soil and repotted in a mi.vture of loam, leaf-mould, broken
brick rubble and sand, .\fter potting they must be
watered sparingly till growth recommences. The best
place for them during the summer is in a frame where
they are shaded from the direct rays of the sun. In hot
weather frequent sprinklings are very beneficial. Plenty
of air should he given, but the lights must be put on in
the event of heavy rains,

CARNATIONS DISEASED (Stockport).— The " chocolate-
coloured blisters " on the leaves of your Carnations are
due to the presence of the so-called " rust," in reality a
fungus vegetating and first developing within the cuticle
of the leaf. Unfortunately, Carnations, like ordinary
mortals, are prone to a variety of diseases, and the past
wet and sunless season in conjunction with a mild winter
has been most favourable to their development. Usually
a rather dry, buoyant atmosphere — that created by
warmth and a free ventilation — will, with careful culti-
vation and studiously avoiding head watering or syring-
ing, prevent any undue spread of the disease. In other
words, moisture, and that phase of moisture which is the
outcome of a close, stutfy atmosphere, favours its growth,
while dryness is opposed to it. If, therefore, you main-
tained a temperature of 55° with air on night and day at
the roof ventilators, all moisture would be dispelled "and
the plants presently brought into a fresh, clean growth

76

THE GARDEN.

[February 8, 1913.

Salt in solution is fatal to it, but this would also be fatal
to the plants if allowed to penetrate to their roots. You
had better wet the " blisters " with the^aid of_a camel-
hair brusli. Dissolve a tablespoonful of common salt
in a pint of water and employ it thus, or, if this is likely to
prove too tedious an operation, get a small piece of sponge
or even cotton-wool and, having wetted it in the solution,
wipe the leaves on both surfaces. By frequently rinsing
the sponge in the solution, the germs will be retained and
destroyed. Some varieties are nearly, or quite, immune
from rust ; others take it badly. Continued greenhouse
treatment on intelligent lines as suggested will accomplish
much, and unless the plants arc now overwhelmed by the
rust, they will, with longer^and brighter^'days, grow out
of it.

PRIMULA MALACOIDES (M. S.).— We cannot under-
stand your lack of success in the culture of Trimula
malacoides, as it is, in a genera] way, so easy to grow.
The fact of the crowns damping otf would suggest that the
plants had been kept too close or fed too much with stimu-
lants. Despite the fact that you say feeding was not
overdone, we are inclined to think that this is at the root
of the trouble. A quantity of beautiful plants came
under our notice a short time since wlxich had been
given no stimulants whatever. The seed was sown
in the spring and the plants grown in a frame throughout
the summer, their final potting being into pots 4J inches
and 5 inches in diameter. Tlie compost in which they
were potted was made up of loam, leaf-mould and sand,
no manure being employed. We would suggest that next
season you treat yours in the same way, and we do not then
think that you will have any further trouble in the matter.

PRIMULAS (£. F.). — The Primula that sets up a form
of eczema m some persons who handle it is P. obconica.
While it is most irritating to many, others are totally
unaUected by it. This species does not form a regular
crown as in the Chinese Primula, but produces a dense
tuft of radial leaves. Tlie blade of the leaf is broadly
oblong, with a heart-shaped base, and it is not lobed as
in the Chinese Primula. The flowers, which are borne in
clusters on stalks from 6 inches to 9 inches or thereabouts
in height, vary in colour from wliite to crimson through
various intermediate shades, though in the original species
they were of a soft lilac tint. A description in words
is a dilflcult matter, but we have no doubt that you will
be able to recognise P. obconica from what we have said.
With regard to the Aconites and Snowdrops, you do not
say when they were planted, a likely cause of failure
being that they were kept out of the ground too long.
They ouglit to be planted in September or, at the latest,
in the first half of October. In a fairly good sandy loam
they should give no trouble whatever. No mulching of
manure is needed.

SCHIZANTHUS (C. M. L.). — In order to obtain good
flowering plants of Schizanthus in April and May, the
seed sliould be sown in September and tlie plants grown
on in a light, airy house, where tliey are safe from frost.
Above all things, avoid a warm, stuliy atmosphere, as
the royal road to success is to induce the plants to grow
stoutly and sturdily from the tost. They may be wintered
in pots 4 inches in diameter, and should be pinched once
or twice according to the habit of the plant. Pots 6 inches
in diameter are very suitable in which to flower them,
though e.xtra vigorous ones may, if required, be put into
8-inch pots. Good loam, with an .admixture of well-
decayed manure, leaf-mould, and sand will suit them well.
While the seed should be sown as above for early flowers,
if sown now the young plants will come on quickly and
aiford a good succession to the autumn-sown ones. The
main thing is to grow them sturdily from the first. In a
temperature of 50° to 60° the seeds will quickly germinate,
and as soon as this happens the young plants must have
plenty of light and au-. When potted ott tliey will need
to be kept closer, and perhaps shaded for a few days, till
the roots take possession of the new soil. For pot culture
all are good, but the largc-ttowered, compact hybrids
and wisetonensis are among the best if dwarf plants
are required.

ROSE GARDEN.

PRUNING ROSES (./. C. F. M.).— The variety Juliet
should have the gro^vths that were produced last summer
pruned back to about a foot in length. You will notice
tiiere were two growths — that made before the tost bloom
and that made after. It is the tost growth we refer to.
Do not peg down the Austrian Briar, but just leave the
plant quite unpruned. It will bloom best on the small
wood made last season.

SULPHATE OF IRON FOR ROSES (Mrs. T.).— Un-
doubtedly sulphate of iron is good for Koses, but how
far it may be applied in conjunction with the artificial
manure you mention would depend upon an analysis
of the article. It is generally looked upon as the best
fertiliser for Hoses grown under glass. In an analysis
made of the composition of a Rose plant it was found that
iron was present in the roots, 2-86 ; wood, 4-23 ; leaves,
2-49 ; and flowers, -97. Probably the fertiliser already
contains a large proportion of iron. Instead of using it
we sliould advise making some liquid manure with soot
placed in a peck bag and steeped in a cask. Another cask
could be prepared by steeping some sheep-manure (this
also in a bag) and giving the Roses alternate waterings
with it as soon as the flower-buds are visible. The liquid
could be apphed about twice a week, and at first it should
be diluted to half strength. We have found Wakeley's
Hop Manure also an excellent aid to colour in Roses
out of doors, and we should say it would be beneflcial
to pot Roses, but a great deal depends on how you have
used the patent fertiliser you mention. We certamly do not
recommend either to be used in conjunction with it , but

if the fertiliser was added to the soil at the time of potting
or has been given as a top-dressing, then you can refrain
from using any more of it and give the Roses the others
as mentioned when the flower-buds are forming, but not
after the colour is visible.

FRUIT GARDEN.

WALNUT TREE BLEEDING (J. IF. T.).— It is very
difficult to stop the bleeding. It will stop naturally as
soon as the tree begins to grow. We presume there has
been no fermenting manure or leaves placed near its roots
to disturb the normal winter condition of the sap ? The
likeUest way to stop it is to sear up the surface and so
close up the pores of the sap, afterwards tarring with a
thick coat of gas-tar.

APPLE TREE NOT BEARING iSMon-in-Aslifield).—
Take olf tlie turf all round the tree for a distance of 3 feet
from its stem. Break up the surface of the soil about
an inch deep, and scatter over it about a quart of bone-
meal, and then surface-dress the ground with a barrow-load
of good farmyard manure, spreading it evenly over the
surface round the tree. Your tree does not want root-
pruning. Flue dust has but little manurial value ; all
the same, it does good when mixed \vith the soil, especially
if the soil is heavy.

SWELLING ON THE RODS OF VINES (O. IF.).— It
is not often one comes across a wart or swelling on the
stems of Vines, and there is no knouu cause for its appear-
ance. It does not injuriously alfect the health or fruit-
fulness of the Vines according to our experience, and the
best way of dealing with it is to cut out the swelling
\vith a sharp knife level with the bark of the Vine, and the
bark will then grow over the wound. It is too late to
cut it out now, as the sap will soon be on the move
and there would be danger of the Vines bleeding.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

EARLY LETTUCE (Oxok). — As you possess a heated
glass structure, we advise you to sow seeds of the varieties
Tom Thumb Market and Early French, a Cos Lettuce,
at once in shallow boxes filled with rich soil. The
resultant seedlings should be transplanted in other boxes
6 inches deep, also filled with rich soil, 8 inches apart.
Sow seeds again early in March, and then seeds in the
open border in April. The seedlings from the early
March sowings may be grown in the frame. For next
winter sow seeds of Hicks' Hardy White and Black-seeded
Bath in August, and again at the end of September.
Some of the seedlings may be grown at the foot of the
walls — 9 inches from them — and some in the cold frame.
In January, February and March sow seeds of those
varieties named above in boxes again. Paris White is
a grand summer Cos variety.

HERBS (M. E. F.). — In addition to the herbs and
scented-leaved plants you enumerate, the following may
be expected to thrive in your garden. Providing the
soil is moderately good and loamy, it will suit all ;. ^but if
poor, it ought to be enriched by the addition of well-
rotted manure or better soil. Aspect is of httle conse-
quence. Balm (Melissa officinalis). Marjoram (Origanum
Marjoram), Horebound (Marrubium vulgare). Tarragon
(Artemisia draconculoides). Wormwood (Artemisia Absin-
thium), Southernwood or Lad's Love (Artemisia Abro-
tanum), Sweet Basil (Ocymum Basllicum), Chamomile
(Anthemis nobilis). Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis), Penny-
royal (Mentha Pulegium), Peppermint (Mentha piperita),
Apple Mint (Mentha rotundifolia). Honey Balm (Melittis
Melissophyllum), Rue {Ruta graveolons). Summer Savory
(Satureia hortensis). Winter Savory (Saturela montana).
Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Lemon Thyme (Thymus
Serpyllum var. oitriodorus), Cotton Lavender (Santolina
OhamsecyparissuB) and the Sage Brush (Artemisia triden-
tata). In addition, such things as Parsley, (Mves, Chervil,
Borage and Fennel can be admitted if you wish. All are
obtainable at a moderate price from any of the leading
nurserymen.

MISCELLANEOUS.

ST. MARK'S FLY (P. C.).— The dark grey grubs are
the larval of the fly which appears so commonly in gardens
about St. JIark's Day, whence it has gained the name
of St. Mark's fly. The grubs feed usually on the decaying
leaves and so on in the soil, but when these are not to be
had, they will attack roots of plants. They are perhaps
more abundant m rather damp situations than elsewhere,
but do not confine themselves to these positions. The
best thing to do, if they are damaging the roots of any
particular plant, would be to put a little lime or Vaporite
or some similar soil fumigant about their roots.

IMPROVING THE SOIL (Alumina). — You cannot do
better than bastard-trench the soil and thoroughly mix
basic slag and long manure with it, not putting the manure
in layers Leave it as rough as possible in the hope of
frost, but do not mix the manure and the basic slag ;
let them lie on the surface. As soon as they come into
contact they must be buried. Potash salts will be quite
unnecessary, for the soil contains abundance of potash,
which the lime in the slag will set free. Another season
the digging should be done in autumn, and it would be
well to give a dressmg of ground quickhme at the rate of
half a bushel to the square rod at the same time. The
value of lime and of the pulverising action of the frost
cannot bo overestimated wliun clay soils are being dealt
with. Indeed, we should almost think It would be better
to get the soil into thoroughly good heart before any
permanent planting was attcmpted.for with the present con-
ditionslittle can be expected from it. Is the drainage good ?

LEMONS GROWN IN FRAME (£. F. £.).— Wejdo'^not
say that it is impossible to grow Lemons a pound inVeight
in a cold frame, but, considering the dull, cold weather of
last year, it would be a difficult task. There is a variety
of Lemon called^ Metford's Lemon which sometimes
perfects fruits over two pounds in weight when the plant
is cultivated in a warm greenhouse, and very larize Lemon
and Citron fruits are ripened every year on plants growing
against an putdoorVwall inja Falmouth garden. Perhaps
you could get the gentleman who has grown the fruits
to let you see them.

BUILDING AND HEATING A RANGE OF GLASS-
HOUSES (E. r.).— At least a 12-feet run of wall or trellis
space_per tree would be necessary in tile case of Peach
trees. To accommodate seven trees on the back wall
and a front trellis, a house 50 feet long would be required.
The front trellis should be curved, so as to admit light
over it to the trees on the back wall. A house lOXfeet
wide would be suitable. The Vines should be planted
3 feet apart at nearest ; a house 30 feet long would answer
for eight Vines. A forcing-house in the centre, 12 feet
long and 10 feet wide, would do very well. The vinery
should be 12 feet 6 inches wide. We are presuming that
your houses would be lean-to. If so, the front wall of
the Peach-house should be 20 inches high, with ventila-
tion in it, and at the top of the rafters also. The front
wall of the vinery should be 18 inches high, with front
glass on it 2 feet 6 inches high, with ventilators in it
and also top ventilators. The front wall of the forcing-
pit may be of similar height, the glass portion also
corresponding to that in the vinery. Good bricks usually
cost about thirty-two shillings per thousand, and they
are laid at an average cost of 10s. per thousand. You
can thus get to know the cost of the walls, with the mortar
and sand required, from a local builder. The cost
of the wood and glass per foot run would be about ten
shillings in the case of the Peach-house, and 15s. in the
case of the forcing-house and vinery. It would be advis-
able to fix the boiler near the forcing-liouse, and to have
two flow and two return 4-inch pipes round it. One
flow and one return pipe would suffice in the Peach-house,
and two flow and one return pipe in the vinery. A check-
end saddle boiler would be the best to fix, with rings and
rubber joints for the pipe connections. A local plumber
could then fix the pipes, but we advise you to give the
sizes of the houses (when you have decided on them)
and the length of piping in each to hot-water engineers
advertising in The Garden, and ask for the lowest estimate
with specifications. If you will refer to THE Garden,
page 49, issue January 25, you will find useful hints
on planting Vines. The Peach trees should be put
in a firm soil, well drained, fan-trained trees being the
best.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— IF. 6'., Hawick.— \, Selaginella
Braunii ; 2, Helxine Solierolii ; 3, Selaginella caulescens ;
4, S. kraussiana ; 5, Fieus radicans variegata ; 6, Ccesal-
pinia species ; 7, Chlorophytum elatum ; 8, Sempervivum
prealtum ; 9, Adiantum formosum ; 10, Gymnogramme
japonica. A. D. Groves. — Cotoneaster Simonsii.

NAMES OF FRUIT.— Marie* Harbormgh.— The Apple
is Rouudway Magnum Bonum. It should do in your soil.

271, J. B. — The Apple is Baldwin's, and of no value

grown in this country.

SOC I ET I E S.

THE NORTH OF ENGLAND HORTICULTURAL
SOCIETY.

THE close of the second year of operations shows a paid-up
membership of just over five hundred Fellows or members,
sixteen affiliated societies and a turn-over of £650. The
increase in Fellows is nearly fifty per cent., and the number
of affiliated societies has been doubled. The society is
still handicapped by its heavy initial expenses, but in
the coining year income and expenditure are expected
to be made to balance each other. This year should see a
great movement forward, as very few FeUows or members
have fallen out of the ranks except by death or inability
to attend shows, and an appeal is to be made on a large
scale. Various special sub-committees are taking matters
in hand with keenness, chief among which is the new
magazine committee, which will run the magazine on
the " round table " method, there being sub-editors
from each of the four main committees of experts, besides
a chairman (Professor R. S. Soton) and a printing and
advertisement secretary (Mr. T. H. Gaunt). The annual
meeting" will be held at the Queen's (Midland) Hotel,
Leeds, on Wednesday, February 19, at 5 p.m.

WARGRAVE AND DISTRICT GARDENERS'
ASSOCIATION.

A GOOD number of members assembled on Wednesday
evening, January 29. to hear a lecture by Mr. T.
Tunbridfe F.R.H.S., liead-gardencr to S. C. Davies, Esq.,
The Three Elms, Rcmenham, on " The Pruning of a Few
Groups of Hoses." These consisted of the following :
the multiflora, wichuraiana. Noisette, Tea and China
sections Most minute details were given for the time
and manner of pruning in the best possible way, the lecturer
strongly advocating autumn pruning to spring pruning
in the above-mentioned groups. A splendid discussion
ensued and many questions were asked the lecturer.
These 'he kindly answered. A hearty vote of thanks
was accorded Mr. Tunbridge at the close, being earned with
acclamation.

GARDEN. I

-^p=

^ii^fe

No. 2152.— Vol. LXXVII.

February 15, 1913.

CONTBMTS.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

.Notes uf tiik Week 77
corresi'ondence
Serious losses amoni!

Rosos 78

Canmtions and cats 78
Solution and notes of

Acrostic No. 8.. .. 79

Solvers of Acrostic No. 7 79

Foilhcomirm events . . 79

Rock .ind Water 0.\kdex

The firm planting; of

alpine Howers . . 79
A little-known ('ain-

panula 79

b'Rl'IT i;.\Ri>EN
The winter spruyinij
of fniit trees. . . . SO
Kitchen Uarden

Outdoor Tomatoes . . 80
Greenhouse

Notes on Orcliids :

Calanthcs . . . . 80
cineraria Beauty of
Cambrid5c . . . . 81
Rose G.irden
Some of the newel I

H.vbrid Tea Koses 81
("oLotiRED Plate
Two new Sweet Peas 82

Flower Garden
Kniphoflas, or Torch

Lilies 82

The Japanese
Anemone . . . . 83
I Lilies : A causerie . . 83
Seasonable notes on
Carnations . . . . 84

Trees anu Shruiis
Clematis montana and
its varieties . . . . 84

Gardening for Bec;innf,rs
How to propauate
bedding plants in

sprini: 85

The Bridal Wreath . . 85

Gardening of the Wf,ek
For Southern gar-
dens 86

For Northern (jar-

den.s . . .... 86

New and Rare Punts 87

New Orchids . . 87
Cultural hints on new

and rare plants . . 87

Roses in a Kentish

Garden in 1912 .. 87
.\nswers to corre-

SPONDr,NTS . . . . 88

I III. U ST RATION 8.

Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., K.C.V.0 78

.\ Mue-floweied Hydrangea in the Isle of Wight .. 79

Cineraria Beauty of Cambridge SI

Two new Sweet Pea? Coloured plate

A large bed of Torch Lilies 82

Japanese Anemone Queen Charlotte S3

The rose-flowered Mountain Clematis 84

How to propasate bedding plants in spring . . . . S.i

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
blU he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he trill endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly staled.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as eindence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

fices: 20, Tavistock Street, Cocent Garden, IT.C.

Orchids Destroyed at Kew. — Those who love
flowers, .111(1 p.iriicularly tliose who enjoy the rare
kinds that are always to be found at Kew, will
learn with indignation that a number of Orchids
were destroyed during the small hours of Saturday
morning last. We understand that an envelope bear-
ing the words " Votes for Women " was left among
the broken plants. A great deal of the glass in
the three houses was broken and a number of plants
hacked to pieces.

The Rev. W. Wilks.— .-^s we have akeady
pointed out, this week the Rev. W. Wilks
completes twenty-five years' hard and valuable
work for the Royal Horticultural Society as secre-
tary. We had intended publishing his portrait,
with some particulars of his work, but after hearing
his speech at the annual dinner of the Horti-
cultural Club, where he stated that he positively
disliked such attention being drawn to him,
we respect his wishes and allow his work to speak
for itself.

Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., K.C.V.O., whose
portrait we have much pleasure in publishing
on the following page, has been president of
the Royal Horticultural Society (or the long
period of twenty-five years, a position he has
admirably filled to the benefit of the society
and horticulture in general. Sir Trevor has
not been merely a president in name ; through-
out the whole of his presidency he has attended
almost every Council meeting, where his vast and
intimate knowledge of horticulture has proved
highly beneficial. We understand that, owing to
the work now being beyond his strength, Sir Trevor
contemplates resigning his position, a resolution
that we feel sure all who know him will deeply
regret.

Primula denticulata. — This is one of the

earliest cf the hardy Primulas to flower. In many
rock gardens and borders its heads of dense lilac
flowers are already showing colour. It is a native
of the Himalayas, rather like P. capitata in habit,
but the flowers are larger and of different colour.
This Primula is particularly effective when planted
in breadths in short grass about the alpine
garden. It likes a moist position. The varieties
alba and cashraeriana are well worth growing,
the latter having violet flowers with yellow
eyes.

Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund. — The annual
meeting at this excellent Fund, held on Friday of
last week, entied in a most satisfactory way for
the whole of the candidates that were nominated
for election. No fewer than twenty-five cases of
motherless and fatherless children, all of them of
a most distressing nature, were brought forward.
Nineteen children were elected in the usual way,
and the remaining six were placed on the funds
in anticipation of the forthcoming grant from

the Royal International Horticultural Exhibition.
We command this Fmid to the notice of our readers.
Full particulars may be had from the secretary.
Mr. B. Wynne, ig, Bedford Chambers. Covent
Garden, London, W.C. A report of the proceed-
ings at the annual meeting will be found on another
page in this issue.

Narcissus Golden Spur for Pots.— This com

paratively old v.incty, just now at its best in the
conservatory, is one of the finest and brightest
of the early-flowering Narcissi for growing in pots.
Its medium-length, sturdy flower-stems support
the brilliant self yellow flowers in a graceful manner ,
and if well grown, wire or other artificial
supports are not needed. Golden Spur is equally as
valuable in the outdoor garden, creating a bright
splash of colour early in the year such as we get
from no other variety just at that time. The
market - growers fully appreciate its value for
forcing.
Apple Lane's Prince Albert for Dessert.— It

is dilhcult to understand why this useful Apple
is not more extensively grown, for it has much to
commend it. The trees usually start to crop
when young, produce fruit regularly every year,
and the .Apples can either be used for cooking or
dessert. We have been using some for the latter
purpose since the early days of January, and
although they cannot be compared with Cox's
Orange Pippin, Ribston Pippin, or others of that
class, they are far superior to most of the
Colonial Apples with which our shops are at
present flooded.

When to Prune Winter Jasmine. — ^We so often
see this beautiful winter-flowering shrub mutilated
by injudicious pruning, or by pruning done at the
wrong season, that a timely reminder may not be
out of place. It is not often that it requires much
attention v;ith knife or secateurs, a thinning out
of weak, overcrowded shoots, with the shortening
of any that may be encroaching too far on the
available spice, being all that is necessary. The
best time to do this is just now, when the flowers
have faded. Young wood that is made during the
coming summer is likely to give the best display
of flowers next winter.

Spraying Fruit Trees : A Warning Note. —

Owing to the very mild winter and the subsequent
condition of certain fruit trees, we take this oppor-
tunity of warning readers against the use of caustic
ilkili wash, recommended by Mr. E. Molyneu.x
on page 8o, upon those trees that are very forward.
A few days ago we observed .\pple shoots, of the
variety Keswick Codlin in particular, just on the
point of breaking into growth. Although February
is usually considered a good month for winter
spraying with the caustic alkali wash, yet if
practised this year it wiU have an injurious
effect upon those trees already commencing
growth. It is, however, perfectly safe to usi-
it upon those trees where the bids are still quite
dormant.

78

THE GAKDEN.

[February 15, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

[The Editor ts not responsible for lite opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Rose Florence Haswell Veitch. — 1 strongly
recommend this Rose for the garden : it is
vigorous in growth, flowers freely, is fragrant,
and the colour is especially noticeable^scarlet,
with a flush of velvet overlying the petals. — E. M.

Iris Vartanii and its White Variety.— We

were interested to see figured m yuur February 8
issue, page 69, the fine pan of Iris Vartanii, and
should like to call attention to the very little
known white variety of it which goes under the name
at Pearl of Jerusalem or White Pearl. We intro-
duced it a few years back as a variety of Histrio,
but it showed itself to be Vartanii as soon as it
flowered, .\nother point worth mentioning with
regard to the species is its ilelightful
fragrance, which Sir Michael Foster seems to
have overlooked in his invaluable little book
on bulbous Irises. It strongly reminds one
of Almonds. — R. Wallace axd Co.

Kerria japonica flore plena. — Mention
is often made of the usefulness of this
flowering shrub for various purposes,
but nothing is said of its value as a wall
climber for a northern aspect — a site at all
times difficult to effectively clothe with
flowering subjects. Covering the whole of
the northern side of a cottage here, 18 feet
high, this Kerria makes a glorious sight
every year, smothered quite thickly as it is
with its rich orange-coloured blossoms. .^11
the attention it receives is the tying of
the current season's shoots to the main
branches directly flowering is past. — E. M ,
Bishop's Wnltham, Herts.

Sweet Peas Reverting to the Wild Type.—

I was interested in reading the article by Mr.
Vernon Hill on this subject, page 57, Feb-
ruary I issue, and rather surprised to find
there could be any doubt on the point
indicated in the above headmg. It is a
matter of very common experience in India
that Sweet Peas of good varieties in the
course of two or three years will have gone
back to two types (i) blue and maroon,
presumably the purple referred to, and (2)
white and pink. Now, in India we have not
the wild Sweet Pea, and the reversal is evi-
dently due to the promiscuous hybridisation.
The first year a few come true, the second
still fewer, and I believe I am right in
saying that in the third year you would find none.
If this is not the case in England, it would be
interesting to know why it occurs in India. I
should like to know also whether the white and
pink is one of the wild types. — A. Newnham
(Lieutenant-Colonel, I. A., retired), Fabron, Nice.

A Remarkable Hydrangea. — I am sending a

photograph of a very free-flowering Hydrangea
growing on the premises of the Shanklin Tennis Club.
It is said to have been planted in the memorable
year of 1887, and, as the picture shows, it has now
exceeded its allotted space, having quite grown out
of bounds. Last year this shrub carried about
six hundred heads of bloom, and was the
pride of Mr. W. R. Jones, the club gardener.
Its position is 100 feet above sea-level, and
the flowers, of which only about half are
shown in the photograph, are invariably deep
blue.— H. C.

A Proposed Daffodil Society. — A misquoted

Latin phrssc in the Rev. J. Jacob's article on
this subject which appeared on page 75 of our issue
for last week, has aroused the poetic spirit of a well-
kniiwn Daffodil expert, who sends us the following :

■' CARfHAGO EST DeLEXDUM."

A health;' rule, in my days at school.

To block and birch would send 'em
Who wrote, in defiance of godly alliance,

Carthago est dejendum.
For, though he'd own that the Punic town

Was a masculine virago.
The Roman said (and note that he made

The words the other way go)
Not " it," but " she destroyed must be,

Delcnda est Carthago." G. H. E.

1 was very glad to see Mr. Jacob's interesting

article in your last issue on this subject. Following

SIR TREVOR LAWRENCE, BART., K.C.V.O.

as it does the letters of Captain Kitchin and Mr.
Carne Ross, both of whom I know to be keen
Daffodil enthusiasts, it wUl, I feel sure, be the
means of imittng all lovers of this flower in their
determination to give it a national society of its own.
In my opinion a National Daffodil Society should
have been formed years ago, and now that new varie-
ties of the Daffodil — good, bad and indifferent — are
being introduced yearly by the thousand, it appears
to me to be imperative that we should have a
society whose business would be to sift the good
from the bad, draw up new classifications when
necessary, and generally take charge of the Daffodil
and do what the National Rose Society does for
the Rose. If there is any single flower that should
have a national society of its own, it is the Daffodil.
Probably there is no other hardy flower which
exists in such a variety of forms and which offers
such possibilities to the hybridist. It is a florist's

flower and a decorative flower, and although it
repays good cultivation, is easy to grow. The
Royal Horticultural Society and the Midland
Daffodil Society hold excellent shows, and I look
forw.ard each year with more pleasiure to my
visit to Birmingham, where one meets one's
Daffodil friends. These shows, however, cannot
do what a national society could for the Daffodil.
— X. V. Lower, Presteign, Radnor.

Carnations and Cats. — Many will consider that
the only connection between'the two is that the
initial letter of each is the same. Such, too, wa?-
my opinion until lately, when I found the growins
points of many of my Carnations eaten off. My
thoughts at once reverted to sparrows, and I
immediately decided that those cheeky but not
wholly mischievous birds shovild be fed no more.
Although I watched the sparrows for a long time,
I could obtain no evidence of their being the authors
of the mischief, but found out quite sufficient
to sh'^w that I was blaming them for damage
which they did not do, as I detected the
culprit in a neighbouring cat, which was
several times seen carrying out its work of
destruction. Cats sometimes eat grass for
medicinal proposes, and the resemblance be-
tween the two is probabh' the reason why it
turned its attention to the Carnations. After-
wards I found it eating both Pinks and Thrift.
Lack of grass is not the cause, as there is
plenty close by. — H. P.

Serious Losses Among Roses. — Many
Rose-growers in the South-West of Scotland
will have rea,son to sympathise with Mr. Blair,
whose note appears on page 66 of last week's
issue. Climbing Roses here have suffered
extensively, and many which have stood un
harmed for a number of years have been
severely injured. I do not like iron for climb-
ing plants, and all my climbing Roses art-
either on pillars, walls, or trellises, yet they
have suffered greatly, and I fear that one or
two, at least, are completely gone. Most ol
them are severely crippled. This is note-
worthy among the wichuraianas, and this is
not surprising in view of the " Tea blood "
in these charming Roses. The typical
wichuraiana is all right, and some of thi-
hybrids have come through with compara-
ti\'ely little injrury. I have been much
surprised at one plant of the old Fellenberg
grown as a climber, which has been in
its present position, sheltered from the north
and east and against a wall and arch for
some years. This plant is cut to the ground.
Another, on a pillar, is not so much injured.
Dorothy Perkins is partly injured, and is worse
in some parts of the garden than in others. Oup
peculiar thing with Dorothy Perkins is that a plant
in a place where it generally suffers from wind
in bad summers is little the worse, and a plant ol
White Dorothy against the same arch as the one
of Fellenberg alluded to before is quite fresh and
healthy-looking. Tea Rambler, which is often
hurt in winter and is not so satisfactory as one
would like, looks sadly crippled and will hardly
recover. Blush Rambler is all right. So is Lady
Godiva, and only some two or three of the con-
siderable number of other ramblers and wichurai-
ana hybrids are much harmed. Crimson Rambler
has suffered considerably. Dwarfs are not much
the worse, but these were saved by a heavy snowfall
which remained on the ground during the worst
of the frost towards the end of November and the-,
beginning of December. — S. -Arnott, Dumfries.

February 15, 1913.]

I'HE GARDEN.

79

SOLUTION AND
ACROSTIC

Firsts-

t -:.

t 3.

§ 4.

II 5-

t 6.

" 7.

tt 8.

n 9-

§§ lo-

nil "■

•*• 13.

NOTES

No. 8.
MENDEL-DE VRIES." Lasts—"
BREEDING."
(Marty.nia proboscidea]

E NOTR
ICOTIAN
OSEBLEE
HRE
ASI
ISPLANTE

M
L

N

N

E

B

D

E

V

D

I

N

S

OF

PLANT

P
E
A
D
T
L
K
E
E
K
1

E
G

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

A.N HOUTT

UTCH GaRDENE

RIS K.EMPFER

ONESUCH PaLAC

IMPLIN

• The seed-pods are " armed with two long
hook-line appendages." Speer's " .\iinual and
Biennial Garden Plants" under " Martynia."
t Le Notre made Versailles for Louis XIV.
i Nicotiana, the Tobacco Plant family. § Prior's
■' Popular Names of British Plants." The name
.Millefolium was transferred from the Horsetail
10 the Yarrow, and hence the properties of one
were passed on to the other. || Ehret was em-
ployed by Trew. See Mrs. Earle's " Pot-Pourri,"
page 60. H Cole's " Art of Simpling " cuid
Folkard's " Plant Lore " tinder " Basil."
** Figured in some editions of " Hortus Floridus "
and in Liger's " Compleat Florist," page 146.
tt Eve in Milton's " Paradise Lost." tt Van
Houtte was a very celebrated nurseryman of
Belgium. §§ See " Pritzel," edition 1851, under
■■ Henry van Oosten." ||l| See Dykes' " Iris "
(" Present-day Gardening "). tl Nonesuch
Palace See .\mherst's " History of Gardening,"
second edition, page 95, and also Johnson's
" History of Gardening," page 59. *** Cole
published the "Art of Simpling" in 1656. One
of the objects of gardens about that time, and
for a great many years previous, was to provide a
home for medicinal plants. The plants were
called " simples."

SOLVERS OF ACROSTIC No. 7.

Correct solutions ot .\crostic No. 7 were sent in
by the following : " While Lady," Mrs. F. Jones,
" Elm, Bampton," " Rustic," L. A. Louden and
■■ R. P. B."

*,* Owing to the great amoiiiil of work entailed
in sorting out the replies, we regret that we are
unable to publish the names of those who have
solved No. 8 this week. These, with the names of
the prize-winners m the cotnpctition. will appear
next week.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

February 18. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Exhibition and Meeting. Lecture by Miss Mason
on " Some Flowers of Eastern and Central .\frica,"
illustrated by water-colour drawings. Croydon
and District Horticultural Mutual Improvement
Society's Meeting.

February 19. — National Fruit Growers' Federa-
tion's .\nnual Meeting at the Royal Horticultural
Society's Hall. North of England Horticultural
Society's Annual Meeting and Show at Leeds.

February 20. — Linnean Society's Meeting.

February 28.— Beckenham Horticultural Society's
Meeting and Lecture.

March i. — Societe Frangaise d'Horticulture de
Londres Meeting.

THE FIRM PLANTING OF ALPINE
FLOWERS.

Ni 'U' that planting-time will soon be
here, it seems a good thing to urge
upon amateurs and others the
necessity of firm planting of alpine
flowers. I have seen so many
instances of plants being lost through
planting them too loosely or in too loose soil that
it seems only right to caution beginners, in par-
ticular, on this point. One is frequently con-
sulted regarding the losses among alpines, and it
is not too much to say that a large proportion of
these are caused by defective planting. This
frequently arises through the soil being made
unduly light by the addition of too much leaf-soil
and sand. Both are good when used rightly, but
an excess is injurious.

operation. The result was that the alpines never
looked back again, and by the end of the season
they were in excellent condition.

The quantity of leaf-soil and sand to be used
depends on the quality of the loam ; the stiffcr
the latter is, the more leaf-soil and sand is required.
Then the leaf-soil used is often too flaky smd im-
properly matured, so that fungoid growths appear,
to the detriment of the alpines planted in it. I
would emphatically enforce the necessity of firm
planting, spreading out the roots well, pressing the
earth well about them and finishing off by pressing
it about the neck of the flowers, and putting a few
stones about them also if they are not planted in
crevices. " Plant firmly " is a piece of advice which
should not be neglected. An Old Alpinist.

A LITTLE KNOWN CAMPANULA.

It is hardly possible to overpraise the charming
Campanula raddeana, but it has one defect which
it is unwise to endeavour to conceal. This is its

A BLUE-FLOWERED HVDR.\NGE.\ GROWING .\T SHANKLIN, ISLE OF WIGHT, (-^ee /lage 78.)

I had a striking instance of this a year or two ago,
when, on being asked to visit a garden to advise
about alpines which were not doing well and where
many of them were dying off, I found that they
were planted in soil containing far too much loose,
flaky leaf-mould and sand. This would not have
mattered so much even had the compost been made
quite firm, but it was laid in the slackest fashion
and no attempt had been made to firm it at all.
Then the plants had been put in and never pressed
into the soil or the latter made firm about them.
In consequence, their roots never had a chance of
taking hold of the soil, and many of them were
on the verge of their demise. .\t once the lifting
of the plants was advised, together with the
addition of some good loam and making the whole
firm, though not into a stiff mass. Then the
alpines were replanted, with the soil made firm
about their roots, and a good watering given, the
month being May, not the best time for the

inability to maintain itself upright without some
assistance — rather a serious drawback for a plant
which is so pretty on rockwork. One does not
like to see a plant on the rockery upheld by a
stick or twig, yet this seems necessary with C.
raddeana, unless we can grow it through some
slender rock shrub which would uphold its stems.
These fall forward owing to the weight of the many
large bells which they bear, and, unfortunately,
these flowers seem always to fall with their " faces "
against the sod, so that they do not show so nicely
as do many other flowers with this failing. But
C. raddeana is such a lovely thing that it is worth
while trying to contrive some support which
would not be obtrusive. With me it is about
a foot high, and gives with great freedom stems
laden %vith purple blue bells on a plant of the
freest-growing habit, the roots running sufficiently
rapidly to increase quickly without being too
troublesome. S. Arnott.

80

THE GARDEN.

[February 15, 1913.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

THE WINTER SPRAYING OF FRUIT
TREES

CONTINUING my article, page 637 of
the last volume, I now purpose deal-
ing with some chemical winter washes
employed lor the double purpose of
the cleansing of the trees from moss,
and lichen, and from such pests as
■eggs of the winter moth, woolly aphis, mussel-scale
ova, Apple blossom weevil, oyster-shell bark lice,
earwigs and the caterpillar of the Codlin moth in
its cocoon.

The Board of Agricultiure, in the valuable leaflets
issued, strongly recommend the use of winter
washes for fruit trees, and mention the Woburn
Wash as being desirable.

In addition to the pure lime spray noted, I am
using the following wash, made from this formula,
in addition to some prepared washes which I will
also note, as in many instances those persons with
but a few trees prefer a prepared wash to the trouble
of preparing one from a formula. In the soil here
lime is not needed so much as in soils of a diiierent
character, as the subsoil is chalk at some dis-
tance from the surface. For this reason other
washes suit rae equally as well as the lime
spray. Caustic soda, i^b, ; copper sulphate,
ijlb. ; lime. Jib.; paraffin emulsion, 5 pints;
water, 10 gallons. Dissolve the copper sulphate
in six gallons of water and slake the lime in three
gallons of water. The dissolved copper sulphate
should be run through a fine sieve to remove any
portions of a gritty character. Then add the
paraffin emulsion and stir them together, adding
the caustic soda and sufficient water to make
ten gallons.

The paraffin emulsion requires careful prepara-
tion. Boil one gallon of skim-milk, gently, gradually
add two gallons of paraffin by pouring it gently
in the middle of the milk, but not in sufficient
quantity to take the milk off the boU. Add
ijlb. of soft soap, • gently whipping it up in
the middle of the vessel, keepmg it away from
the side of the copper, as it is so liable to burn to
the vessel.

Some growers may prefer to use iron sulphate
in the place of copper sulphate ; in that case add
half a pound of iron sulphate instead of the i Jib. of
copper sulphate to the same ingredients and the
same quantity of water. Prepare and apply in the
same manner any time between November and
the end of February.

A simple winter wash can be made with lime and
sulphur only in the same manner as recommended
in my book, " Chrysanthemums and Their Cultiure,"
which I wrote and practised in 1886. Place 2lb.
of sulphur and alb. of lime which has not been
slaked in ten quarts of water, and boil for twenty
minutes. Use fom: wineglassfuls of the mixture
to foiu' gallons of clean cold water. This is a capital
fungicide for summer use also, using it at half the
strength, for many of the insect .-md fungus pests
which attack the trees.

Of prepared washes the following are desirable :
Bentley's Concentrated AlkaU Wash is most
efficacious in cleansing the trees, rendering the bark
quite bright and imparting a dark colour to it.
In using this mixture I would caution users not to
drench the trees unnecessarily with the Uquid,
especially standards, because the stems become
too saturated with the wash running down, collecting
as it does from the branches to the stem, and. of
course, the older the tree the more numerous are

the lodgments iu the stem for the wash ; an undue
quantity might do some slight harm. Dissolve
the contents of one tm in fifteen gallons of slightly
warm soft water.

Messrs. Strawson prepare an article known as
Strawsonite, which is efficacious, easy to apply and
quite safe. Add 2lb. Strawsonite to fifteen gallons
of cold water. Keep the spray fluid well agitated
while spraying to prevent the settling of the mixture
at the bottom of the sprayer.

Messrs. Voss and Co. ' prepare a liquid winter
wash which is easy to use, at the rate of one gallon
to fifty gallons of water. This wash I am giving
an extended trial this season as it is so simple
of application.

Swanmore Park. E. Molyneux.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

OUTDOOR TOMATOES.

THE past year was, on the whole, not
very suitable for the production of
high-class Tomatoes in the open garden.
Some very fair fruit, however, was
secured from plants growing upon
south walls. The seed for this year's
supply of plants should be sown in heat during
February and March. Failing a warm greenhouse,
use may be made of a hot-bed to raise the
seedlings. A small pan, or even a pot, will con-
tain sufficient for the average amateur's garden.
Fine soil, made moderately firm, and good
drainage are essential points in the production of
healthy plants.

The plants from their first appearance must be
placed in a position where they will obtain the full
advantage of light, and as soon as they are strong
enough, air within reason should be admitted.
This will secure short-jointed, sturdy plants, so
important a factor in the ultimate success of the
crop. The seedlings may be pricked out when large
enough to handle. I prefer to plant them arotmd
the edge of 5j-inch pots ; it is then a simple
matter to divide the ball of soil and pot on the plants
when they are ready without injury to their roots.
The plants grow quickly as the season advances, and
they may be given a final shift singly into sj-inch
pots. As these pots become full of roots and the
sun increases iu power, plenty of water will be
required by the plants. They may be arranged
in a frame, allowing plenty of room for the air to
circulate freely between them. Frames are so
often overcrowded during the spring, and it is a
good plan to arrange the Tomatoes on a bed of
ashes under the protection of a south wall or fence
during the latter part of the month of May. A
framework of Bamboo canes or poles may be fitted
up, on which mats may be placed at night as
an extra protection against damage by frost.
The first week of June is a suitable time for
planting.

The first places to plant are those agauist walls or
on fences facing the south or west. The next best
places are on borders immediately in front of these
walls or fences, while in some locahties and during
favourable seasons good crops have been taken
from the open ground. Do not add manure
at the time of planting, except in cases where
the soil is very light and poor. Plant firmly.
Secure the plants to the wall or to stakes. Apply
water as required. Remove all side shoots as
they appear. A mulch of maniure is advantageous
in preserving moisture and affording food to the
plants. Three, or in sunny positions four, bunches

of fruit may be allowed to set on each plant. The
plants should then be stopped at "one leaf above
the last bunch. A portion of the foliage may be
cut away, so that the fruit may derive fuU advantage
of the sun. Do not entirely denude the plants
of their foliage. The latest bunches seldom ripen
thoroughly outdoors. They may be placed on the
shelves of a greenhouse or in a sunny window to
finish. Satisfaction and Sunrise are excellent varieties
for growing in the open garden. Colin Ruse.

THE GREENHOUSE.

NOTES ON ORCHIDS: GALANTHES.

THERE are several Orchids well cultivated
by gardeners who do not claim to be
Orchid-growers in a general sense.
Calanthes are among them, for they are
special favourites with those who live
outside the metropolitan area and
away from large manufacturing centres, where
dense, smoky fogs play havoc with the blooms,
while the absence of light also has a bleaching
effect on the flowers.

In an ordinary establishment there usually
exists a Melon-pit, a shelf in the vinery, or a
Cucumber-house, where Calanthes thrive admir-
ably. At this season they will soon commence to
grow, and when the new shoot is about two inches
long and ready to push out a batch of roots, the
repotting may be taken in hand. The bulbs have,
no doubt, been kept quite dry at the base through
the winter months, and to prevent any injury
to the new growth, the pots should be given a
thorough watering a day or so before potting
operations begin. The old soil is then shaken out
and all the roots cut away excepting a little tuft
to hold the bulbs in position till they become
established. One bulb behind each growing point
is sufficient, and where the older bulb has not
decayed, it could be placed in some silver sand
till growth is apparent, if it is desirable to increase
the stock. However careful the grower may be,
a few of the bulbs lose their top ; but these may
also be utilised iu a similar way, when they will
generally produce a " break."

Soil and Repotting. — A suitable rooting medium
consists of the best fibrous loam one-half, peat
one-fourth and partly-decayed Oak leaves one-
fourth, and to every bushel of the mixture add
a 6-inch potful of crushed crocks or finely-broken
charcoal. Ordinary flower-pots prove the best
receptacles, which should be filled one-fourth of
their depth with drainage, and over this can be
arranged a thin layer of fibrous loam. The bulbs
ought to be potted singly, the larger ones being
placed in 6-inch pots and the smaller ones in 4 J-inch
and 5-inch pots. Make the compost fairly firm and
allow the base of the new growth to rest upon
the soil, which may be an inch or so below the rim.
This will leave ample space for watering and
top-dressing during the summer months. .'Vfter
the repotting is completed, the bulbs should be
provided with a light position in a house where an
average temperature of 60° to 65° Fahr. can be
maintamed ; but as the sun gains power no harm
will accrue if the thermometer rises to 75° or even
80°. Keep the surroundings moist, but scarcely
any water will be required at the root for about
six weeks. As growth advances and root action
becomes more vigorous, the water supply can also
be increased, and from this stage till the spikes are re-
moved the plants must never be permitted to suffer

February 15, 1Q13]

THE GAliDEK.

81

from lack of moisture at the base. As the foliage
grows, additional stage room must be given and the
plants kept about a foot from the roof glass. Plenty
of light is necessary, short of scorching the leaves ;
but blinds made of thin canvas wUl be required
for a few hours each day when the weather is bright
and hot. Ventilation is a most important factor
in the successful culture of Calanthes, for they
refuse to be healthy in a close, stuffy atmosphere ;
but air must be admitted cautiously to prevent
cold draughts passing over the plants. Spraying
overhead is not recommended, but the stages and
floor should be damped two or three times each day
throughout the growing period. Some growers
advocate liquid manure, but personally I do not
advise its use. If, however, anyone wishes to
experiment with a few examples, it ought not to
be applied till the new bulb is formed.

When growth is near completion, the foliage will
begin to show signs of decay at the tips, and water
will be required in sUghtly smaller quantities,
while the atmosphere may be less moist, and a little
more top ventilation will help to consolidate the
bulbs. The flower-spikes will now soon appear,
and their life will be prolonged if they are arranged
in a dry house where the temperature is about
60* Fahr. .when fully expanded. Directly the
scapes are cut, the bulbs (stUl left in their pots)
may be stored on a dry shelf till the spring. No
water is needed, and the temperature ought not
to fall below 55° Fahr.

Selection of Varieties. — C Veitchii is one of
the most popular in cultivation, the flowers being
a rich rose colour. The varieties of C. vestita,
such as luteo-oculata and rubro-oculata, are very
pleasing, while for a later-blooming kind C.
Regnieri should be chosen. C. Harrisii is a
beautiful pure white variety, while C. Bryan, C.
Bella and C. William Murray are also desirable
subjects. Sentinel.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

SOME OF THE NEWER HYBRID TEA
ROSES.

{Continued from page 72.)

Rayon d'Or (Pemet-Ducher, 1910). — This Rose
can fairly be termed unique, raised from Mme.
Melanie Soupert crossed with Soleil d'Or. It
created a great sensation when first exhibited,
and its fame spread to England long before we saw
flowers of it. When exhibited by Dr. Waddell for
M. Pernet-Ducher at the Royal Botanic Show in
1 910, when it was awarded the gold medal, it
attracted all who saw it by reason of its colouring.
Like all Roses that are at all out of the common,
its lirst year found it suffering very much from over-
production, and the plants that reached us were
surely the smallest that were evi r flattered by the
name of plant. I was fairly fortimate, but 1 saw
a batch that it would have been difficult to find

It is a great break from the hybridist's point of view,
and its colour and robust constitution have no
doubt caused it to be freely used as a parent, so
that we can reasonably look forward to a Rayon
d'Or without thorns, or perhaps I had better

I say with fewer thorns. It is free-flowering,
and the flowers are not injured by rain ; a
bed of it makes a fine splash of colour when in
full flower.

Rose du Barri (B. R. Cant and Sons, 191 1). — ^The
name fairly describes the colour of this Rose, which
makes a good May bedder. Fully expanded, the
flowers remind one of a Shirley Poppy. It is
very free - flowering and fragrant, and produces
a large number of buds ; these should be thinned
to three or five, othenvise the flowers will be small.
Although a Rose of recent introduction, the raisers
are able to offer it at normal prices — I believe is. 6d.
a plant. One spray makes a very effective ornament

I in a vase, with its centre flower fully out and sur-
rounded by three or four buds in various stages.

CINERARIA BEAUTY OF CAM-
BRIDGE.

This attractive and useful greenhouse plant was
raised some years ago by Mr. R. I. Lynch, M.A.,
of the Botanic Gardens, Cambridge, by crossing
Cineraria Heritieri with a white form of the ordi-
nary garden Cineraria, and is quite intermediate
between the two parents. The light, graceful
flowers are white with a violet centre, some of the
floret rays being sHghtly tinged with blue, making
it a very desirable plant. It is readily increased
by means of cuttings, and if given the same treat-
ment as the ordinary garden Cineraria, good plants
can be grown in 5-inch pots, equally as useful for
room decoration as for the greenhouse. A plant
identical to the above was exhibited some time
back under the name of C. hybrida, said to be a
cross between C. cruenta and Senecio Tussala-
ginis. Undoubtedly there must have been some
mistake in the names of the parents, for it is
quite evident such a cross could not give the
same result as C. Heritieri crossed with a white
form of the ordinary garden Cineraria, which
are certainly the parents of C. Beauty of
Cambridge.

.\s already stated, this is a charming
and useful plant, and one that ought to be
more widely known. In common with other
Cinerarias it should be grown in quite a cool
house, and have an abundance of fresh air at
all times. Cold-frame treatment is best for the
plants during the summer, where they must be
shaded from brilUant sunshine. F. G. Preston.

CINER.\RIA BE.\UTV OF CAMBRIDGE, A GARDEN HYBRID THAT IS USEFUL FOR THE

GREENHOUSE.

any wood on bigger than an ordinary safety match.
The result was that we had to wait another year
before any decent flowers or plants could be ob-
tained, and it was only in the summer of 1912
that the Rose made its way into most of our ex-
hibitions. It is a vigorous grower, of fairly
branching habit, rather apt to send up one strong
shoot that absorbs all the strength of the plant.
Excellent foliage, of bright bronze green colour,
that seems quite mildew-proof. I saw no sign of
mildew on any of my plants last season, when 1
suppose mildew generally was as bad as it is possible
to be, and that is saying a good deal. The great
feature of the flo%ver lies in its wonderful colour ;
it is without question the deepest yellow Rose we
have, and the colour lasts ; but it is, to my mind,
better in the garden than in the house, the colour
being a little crude for decoration ; and another
point that rather detracts from its use as a decora-
tive Rose on the table is that its thorns are terrible.

Rose Queen (The E. G. Hill Company, 1911). —
This is a free-flowering garden Rose of American
introduction, and no doubt very useful under
glass. Mr. Gumey HUl, when over for the " Inter-
national," told me it was particularly free-flowering ;
whether it will prove so out of doors with us I
cannot say, but that was its characteristic under
glass. It is deep pink or full rose iu colour, of
good habit, but not particularly distinct. A pink
Rose has to be particularly good — for example.
Miss Cynthia Forde — ^if it is to tak» a place in the
ranks of pink Roses.

Reine Mere d'ltalie (Bernaix, 1911). — My
solitary plant of this Rose gave me some excellent
flowers last summer. It is a good yellow, of an
ochre shade, very free-flowering, of fair size, and
generally satisfactory.

Senateur Mascurand (Pernet-Ducher, 1910). —
This is a fine Rose, of good shape and substance,
but its colour is variable. Personally, I do not

82

THE GARDEN.

[February 15, 1913.

object to a Rose on this ground, but it. of course,
would not do to plant it in a bed forming part of
a colour-scheme unless it is used to shade from a
yellow into a white.

Souvenir de Gustave Prat (Pernet-Durher, igio)-
— A Rose with similar characteristics to the last
named, which latter, however, I prefer. The
buds of this Rose are possibly a trifle longer, but
with me the other Rose was the better grower and
certainly more free-flowering. I do not think both
are wanted.

Sunburst (Pernct-Ducher, 1912). — A Rose that
has caused much controversy. Under glass there
can be no two questions, I think, of its beauty ;
out of doors it behaves, apparently, in some gar-
dens indifferently, in others well. I think position
has something to do with the result. It does not
like full sim, and in such a position loses its colour
very quickly. My plants get no sun till late in
the afternoon, and I had some wonderful coloured

inside decoration and garden purposes, is un-
questioned if flowers that will hold their deep
cadmium yellow colour are produced.

Southampton. Herbert E. Molyneux.

(To be continued.)

COLOURED PLATE.

PIiATB 1465.

TWO NEW SWEET PEAS.

THE two Sweet Peas shown in the accom-
panying coloured plate have much to
commend them to the notice of those
particularly interested in these flowers.
In these days, when so many so-called
novelties so closely resemble older
sorts, it is a rehef to get new ones that are distinct,
which the varieties depicted in the coloured plate
certainly are. In Muriel Quick we have one of

LARGE BED OF TORCH LILIES. WHEN MASSED IN THIS WAV THESE PLANTS CREATE A
DISTINCTIVE NOTE IN THE GARDEN.

flowers in consequence ; with me it was quite
satisfactory. Here, again, the over-production
question comes in, and I think we must wait before
passing a verdict. Every eye was propagated
from last year and the year before, with the inevit-
able result. We were told at the " International " of
a method of pruning, or, rather, stopping, akin to
that which the Chrysanthemima-grower practises —
the leading shoot not being allowed to flower, but
stopped at two eyes, both of which would then pro-
duce deep-coloured flowers. Two groups of plants
were exhibited, the first after the normal pruning
being allowed to flower and showing blooms white
edged if not quite white throughout, the second,
stopped in the manner suggested, showing deep-
coloured flowers. It is vigorous and of Rose
carries few thorns, and its beauty, both for
good branching habit. Unlike Rayon d'Or, this

the beautiful veined Sweet Peas, of which the
grandiflora or unwaved variety Helen Pierce was
the forerunner. Ever since it was introduced
raisers have been endeavouring to secure it in a
waved form, and Muriel Quick is the nearest and
most pleasing approach to it that we have seen.
The other variety, Mrs. D. Denholm Eraser, is a
very striking Sweet Pea, its large, bold flowers,
with their vigorous splashes of bright orange,
making a gay picture in the garden and a
fine addition to an exhibit in the show tent. It
is a counterpart of the beautiful Mrs. W. J. Unwin,
except in the .colour of the flakes, which is, ol
course, quite distinct. Both Muriel Quick and
Mrs. D. Denholm Eraser were raised by Mr. W. J.
Unwin of Histon, Cambs, to whom we are indebted
for the flowers from which the coloured plate was
prepared.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

KNIPHOFIAS, OR TORCH LILIES.

KNIPHOFIAS, or Tritoraas, to use an
older generic name which still clings
to them, are valuable hardy perennials
lor summer and autumn flowering.
Several popular names, such as Flame
Flower, Red-hot Poker and Torch Lily,
have been fittingly applied to them. No garden of
any size can be considered complete without the rich ,
warm colours of their flowers. The genus Kniphofia
contains some forty species, chiefly natives of
South Africa. Comparatively few of these, how-
ever, are grown to any extent in gardens, as for
general culture and beauty the species are surpassed
by the numerous hybrids and garden varieties
raised in this country and on the Continent.
Though generally looked upon as hardy plants,
in cold districts and exposed positions the pre-
caution of protecting them with coal-
ashes, leaves, or Bracken in winter is
desirable, for it must be borne in
mind that they grow wild in a country
warmer than this.

Soil and Situation. — Kniphofias
will grow in the cultivated soil of
most gardens, provided it is well
drained. For preference a light
sandy, rather than a heavy, loam
should be provided. An annual
mulching of well-rotted mcmure in
June is beneficial. Propagation may
be effected by division of the clumps,
preferably during March, or in autumn
if more convenient. Kniphofias may
also be raised from seeds sown under
glass during February and March, or
outdoors in April. When established
and flourishing Kniphofias should be
left undisturbed, merely pricking over
the surface soil between the plants in
spring, and keeping the ground at
other times free from weeds. The
plants delight in abimdant supplies
of water in summer and autumn. It
is often recommended to plant Kni-
phofias by the lakeside. The plants,
however, must be located a sufficient
distance up the slope of the bank, so
that the water does not reach the
roots in winter. In such a position
few herbaceous plants can be so
effectively employed planted in bold
groups or masses. Most readers will
be aware of the value of Kniphofias for
the herbaceous or mixed borders, and they are
also particularly effective for beds in the pleasure
grounds. Even when not in flower the clumps or
tufts of broad and long grass-like leaves are
ornamental.

A Good Selection. — K. aloides, or Tritoma
Uvaria, is the old^Red-hot Poker of the cottage
garden. There are several forms worthy of cultiva-
tion with flower-spikes 4 feet to 6 feet high, some-
times even taller than this — glaucescens, yellow,
tipped with orange scarlet ; grandiflora, scarlet
and yellow, a grand variety producing tall, vigorous
spikes of flower in autumn ; maxima, scarlet and
orange ; nobilis, one of the most vigorous and
hardy varieties, flowers orange red ; and Saundersii,
a very free-flowering variety with orange scarlet
flowers. K. aloides is one of the parents of most
of the strong- growing hybrids. The following list

Siij>pleincnt to THE GARDEN, Febntarv 15///, 1913

Two new Sweet Peas — ■
Blue: Muriel Quick.
Red Flaked : Mrs. D. Denholm Frazer.

Htidson t-- Keaiiis, Ltd., Prinfets, London, S.E.

February 15, 1913-]

THE GARDEN.

83

after which it will need little or no further atten-
tion. In the accompanying illustration is seen an

comprises a selection of the best : Chloris, apricot I be very successfully cultivated as pot plants for the

vellow : corallina, coral red ; Lachesis, golden cold greenhouse. For cutting, the flower-spikes are

vellow ; Obelisk, rich yellow ; Pfitzeri, yellow and for many purposes more valuable than the vigorous | effective grouping of the variety Queen Charlotte

scarlet,' a strong grower ; R. Wilson Ker, coral kinds, lending themselves more readily to light • of a soft rosy hue, and one of the most pleasing in

red, a vigorous plant ; Triumph, orange yellow ; and graceful arrangements. cultivation.

John Benarj', dark orange red ; Rufus. yellow.

'haded crimson ; and Victor Lemoine, coral red. \ THE JAPANESE ANEMONE. LILIES : A CAUSERIE.

The Small-flowered Torch Lilies. — ^As a contrast j This is beyond doubt one of the most popular (Continued from page 71.)

to the noble and vigorous varieties and hybrids | garden flowers of to-day. For massing in large Another Lily that has, so far, reciprocated my
of K. aloides we have the miniature or small- I beds by the water-side, on the outsldrts of the affection is the golden and fragrant L. monadel-

flowered Torch Lilies. They
require more attention and
care than their stronger
brethren, or during a severe
winter many losses among
them will have to be re-
corded. These miniature
Kniphofias succeed best in
light, sandy soil and warm,
sunny positions. They are
charming for the front of
the herbaceous border, the
mixed border, and may also
worthily find a place in the
rock garden. In some gar-
dens, to guard against loss
the plants are carefully
lifted and heeled in light,
sandy soil in a sheltered
spot, protecting, if neces-
sary, still further till spring.
The following are the most
important miniature
species: K. breviflora.
yellow, producing slender
spikes 2 feet to 3 feet high,
a rather rare South African
species ; K. Macowanii, soft
coral red, spikes 2 feet
high, valuable in the rock
garden, also from South
.Africa ; K. Nelsonii, orange
red, a charming free-flower-
mg plant of considerable
value grown in pots for the
cold greenhouse, a native
of the Orange River Colony ;
K. pauciflora, grows about
one and a-half feet high,
yellow flowers, borne on
slender spikes, flowers pro-
duced over a long season.
■I native of Natal ; and K.
rufa, yellow and red, may
be truly described as a
miniature K. aloides in both
foliage and flowers, the
hardiest and most free in
growth of the small-flowered
species, free and continuous
in flower, a native of the
Orange River Colony.

With these species to
work upon, hybridists have
given us several useful
small - flowered hybrids
during recent years. One of these, Goldelse shrubbery, or in the herbaceous border it has few
(citron yellow), has received the award of merit equals. Moreover, it is grand for cutting, and
of the Royal Horticultural Society. Torchlight when grown in large masses the pink and white
is a companion plant, with orange scarlet flowers ; flowers may be cut in arrafuls during the autumn.
Lemon Queen, lemon yellow, a distinct plant, with It is a plant of easy cultivation, and it is just as
spikes about two feet high; Solfaterre, yellow, well to place it both in sunny and shady positions to
tipped with green. prolong the flowering season. No garden is com-

In addition to their value in the outdoor garden, plete without this cliarming Anemone. It may be
the miniature-flowered Kniphofias may, if desired, planted now in deep, rich and well-prepared soil.

.\N

EFFECTIVE METHOD OF GROUPING THE BEAUTIFUL JAP.\NESE ANEMONE
QUEEN CHARLOTTE.

phum, which has annually
returned my admiration
with Daffodil yellow bells
and whiffs of blended
essence of Hyacinth and
Poet's'Narcissus. The scent
is strong and heavy, even
lor a Lily, and is almost
too much of a good thing
early in the evening, when
this Lily seems to concen-
trate its efforts on adver-
tising its presence, which I
take to be a sign that in
its own country it lays
itself out for the visits of
crepuscular insects, pro-
bably some large hawk-
moths that fly at early
dusk, when, of course, pale '
lemon yellow and strong
scent would prove good
guides for these hungry
visitors, who come only
with the idea of sipping
lioney, but are welcome to
the Lily as its best-
appointed means for cross-
fertilisation. It is said to
be one of the best Lilies fo.
permanent planting, hating
disturbance and improving
in vigour after its third
year's tenancy. That is
one of the characteristics 1
most desire in a plant. I
•.hould like to fill a garden
with plants whose only
needs after a good planting
are spring and autumn
cleanings of the surface of
their bed, and for which
patience is the best manure.
I have a feeling, whirh I
cannot exactly trace to
book - reading or garden
observation, that mona-
delphum prefers a cool,
loamy soil, so I should
always choose a position
for it where shade lies for
some portion of the day.
Once one gets such a con-
ception of the right position
for a plant, it is hard to
shake it off, and sometimes
noticing successful cul tivation in the gardens of
others under totally different conditions sets one to
look out for climatic or geological differences rather
than to account for it by questioning the truth of
one's preconceived notions. Still, it is a fact that the
best gardeners acquire a knowledge of the geography
of their own gardens which is often of the greatest
service in choosing a suitable home for a new sub-
ject, and yet can hardly be explained in words.

84

THE GAKDEK

[February 15, 1913

So I have a rooted idea that this fine Lily is a fitting
companion for herbaceous Pasonies — the same site
should suit both. The poor thing has suffered
terribly at the hands of its botanical sponsors, and
it laments, moans and groans (the best opposites
to rejoicing that I can think of at the moment) in
the synonyms Loddigesianum, szovitzianum and
Ledebourii, and I daresay, like many of the
Ermyntrudes and Adolphuses, who wish they had
been named Jane or Thomas, would prefer to be
called by its shortest synonym, colchicum. The
plaui yellow forms are most to my liking ; but
they vary so endlessly in the
matter of spotting that, unless you
can choose your plants when in
flower, it is impossible to predict
what you may get from lemon
yellow to deep chrome, any of which
may be plain or speckled.

L. Henryi surprised me more
than any other Lily I have planted
here. I purchased a bulb when it
was new and rare, and also expen-
sive. It was a small one, to match
my purse, and I was not greatly
in love with its weak, bending-over
make of stem and the one or two
blossoms it gave me during its
furst three years here. As it bent
over so much, it was mostly the
recurved portion of the segments
that I saw, and in the choice
southern border I gave to so rare
a novelty they scorched rather
badly. Then I thought it was
about good enough to grow on the
edge of a grouping of^Hemerocallis
at the corner of a border in a lawn,
and a couple of seasons after the
move it shot up a 6-foot stem,
still with the arching habit, of
course, and to keep it clear of the
passing mowing-machine it was
staked at the height of 4 feet, and
when the remaining 2 feet leant
over the lawn, bearing over a
dozen great flowers and buds at
eye-level, I wanted more Henryis
for that corner. They came, and in
191 1 were a fine sight, taller than
ever, about a dozen stems, and'all
staked for only half their height,
so that they bent over naturally
with their wealth of blooms. The
great heat of that summer induced
them to set seed in a most whole-
hearted way, and I greedily left
too many pods on and, I believe,
rather exhausted the plants, so that
this season they were not so higli
or well budded as usual. But
the unusual drought of the whole o
.April and half of May must have
some blame for their loss of inches,
and I have a promising younger
seedlings from the crop to make up for lack of
blooms this year, for, sown as soon as gathered,
nearly every seed germinated in the spring. This
season's autumn manoeuvres necessitated the lift-
ing of this Hemerocallis group, alsii the Lilies, and
I am rather anxious about the result ; so herewith
I touch wood in saying most likely I have ruined
them, it may be for years and it may be for ever.
Wallham Cross. E. \. Bowles.

[To be continued.)

SEASONABLE NOTES ON CARNA-
TIONS.

Carnations in Frames. — Thousands of rooted
layers are potted in the late summer and
autumn with a view to wintermg them in frames,
and the system must be commended with the
choicest varieties, and more particularly so in dis-
tricts where the soil is cold and wet. The precaution
is always a good one, and never more so than in the
winter through which we are now passing. The
wet was incessant in many places, and where the
drainage was in the slightest degree defective,

TREES

CLEMATIS

AND

SH RU BS.

AND ITS

A

THE ROSE-FLOWERED MOUNTAIN CLEM.\TIS (C. MONTAN.^ RUBENS
GROWING OVER RUSTIC POLES.

generation of

many roots perished in the cold ground. In a
frame the plants are completely under the control
of the cultivator, and it is rare to lose more than an
odd one or two where reasonable care is exercised
in management. It is impossible to admit too
much fresh air to the plants ; but torrential rains,
snows and severe frosts ought to be excluded.
The advance should be slow and strong, so that
when the time arrives for putting the plants in
the garden, the task can be accomplished without
the slightest check being given.

MONTANA
VARIETIES.

QUICK-GROWING climber and a general
favourite wherever grown, the type of
this species has long been in cultivation,
and is known in the South and West of
England as a most effective and flori-
ferous plant for training on a balcony,
wall, fence, or other suitable position where it can
display its wealth of pure white flowers, which are
produced in early summer. It
delights in a hot, sunny pftsition on
the wall of a house, facing due south
for preference, as in such a position
the growths receive a good ripen-
ing and never fail to produce an
abundance of flowers. These are
produced on the ripened wood of
the previous year's growth, so that
any pruning which may be neces-
sary should be done immediately
after the flowering period is over.
The plant is not at all fastidious
as to soil, but prefers one which
is light and open and containing
an abundance of lime.

The advent of a beautiful rose-
coloured variety named rubens,
which was introduced by Messrs.
J. Veitch and Sons through their
collector Mr. E. H. Wilson some
eight or nine years ago, was hailed
with delight by lovers of this hardy
climber, and was awarded a first-
class certificate on May 23, 1905, by
the Royal Horticultural Society.
The plant is of exceptional beauty,
and has the merit of flowering freely
when only a foot or so high ; it
further has the additional advantage
of not requiring a backgroimd to
show it to advantage as in the case
of the white flowers of the type.
For this reason it is most suitable
for training over an old tree stump
or for furnishing an old or dilapi-
dated tree. Another pleasing way
in which it may be used to advan-
tage is that depicted in the accom-
panying illustration. Several stout
branches with their laterals left
about a foot long are sunk in a
small bed and form a rough or ir-
regular p)T:amid in outline. At the
base of these several plants were
planted, and the photograph was
taken of the result the second
season after. A glance at the
illustration will show how rapid is
the growth in the first few years,
and what a really valuable and
effective plant this new variety is.
the flowers are produced in late
and odd flowers continue to develop
all the summer ; they are from li inches to 2 inches
in diameter.

Another new variety from the same source is
Wilsonii, with large pure white flowers, sometimes
as much as 3 inches in diameter. It has the
additional merit of flowering in .August, a period
when flowering climbers are scarce. Both of these
new varieties are excellent and can be recommended
with confidence. C. P. Raffill.

The bulk ot
May and June

Februaky 15, 1913]

THE GAEDEN.

85

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO PROPACiATE BEDDING PLANTS IN SPRING.

OWING to a shortage of cu.tingJ in
1 the autumn, to losses during the
I winter, and other causes, many
amateur gardeners find, at the pre-
sent time, that they will not have
enough bedding plants to properly
fill Iheii borders in the summer. It is not too late
to supplement the stock of plants raised Irom cut-
tings inserted last autiunn. Indeed, many sp.-ing-
struck cuttings grow freely and make very nice
plants, which come in useful for front lines of
beds and small borders.
How to Root Cuttings Quickly. — The wood of

all Puttings inserted at this season is much softer
than that made usually at the end of the summer.
Roots are emitted from soft wood if this is earlier
subjected to a bottom-heat and a fair amount of
moisture. The cultivator must, therefore, endeavour
to build a hot-bed, or arrange a frame over some hot-
water pipes> Of course, the cuttings may be rooted
without any bottom-heat, but more time will be
necessary, and probably there will be a higher per-
centage of ]osst>.

The Compost and Cutting Receptacles. — It

will be advisable to use a lighter compost now than
in the autumn, also one that is much richer,
as in the case of many kinds of plants they may
remain in the cutting pots until planting-out-
time comes, though this course is not advisable.
Loam and leaf-soil in equal parts, with plenty of
sand added and a 7-inch potful of rotted manure
to a bushel of the combined portions, will do very
well. The manure should be placed in the bottom
of the pots, pans or boxes, and not mixed with the
other ingredients. The smaller cuttings should be
inserted in large pots, pans or boxes, and the larger
cuttings singly in small pots. For example.
Lobelia may be put in the former and Zonal Pelar-
goniums in the latter. The Zonal Pelargoniums
will not require any sliift until turned out for

^\h

CUTTINGS MAY BE TAKEN FROM BEDDING PLANTS IN SPRING WHERE STOCK IS SHORT.

bedding piurposes, and the rotted manure in the
bottom of the pot will prove very beneficial.
How to Improve Autumn-Struck Plants.—

Such kinds as Zonal Pelargoniums, Fuchsias and
Coleuses often grow very tall by the time spring
comes, and " topping" will improve them and at
the same time provide quite a number of suitable
cuttings for spring propagation. The tops, denuded
of all flower-buds, should be put in forthwith.
The cut-back plants will branch out and become
nice, bushy specimens, satisfactorily filling more
space in the flower-beds when put there.

Fig. A. — No. I shows an old Lobelia plant
which should be cut down as denoted by the dark

- -.' ' ' Mrz:^/-'—

Ci o n i^.c:zian~

I^

BEDDING PELARGONIUMS, OR GER.\NIUMS, ARE OFTEN BEST WHEN THEIR TOPS ARE
REMOVED IX SPRING. THESE TOPS MAY BE USED AS CUTTINGS.

cross - line ; then more young, flowerless shoots
will grow. No. 2 is not a good slip for a cutting,
but if cut down it may be used. No. 3 is the right
kind to put in, and may be dibbled in boxes
or pots as shown at Nos. 4 and 5. The Alternai-
thera is much used in front lines and in designs in
small beds. Old plants quickly run to flower and
are useless, but if side shoots are selected as shown
at Nos. 6 and 7, a fine stock of young plants will
soon be obtained. No. 8 shows a bad shoot for a
cutting of a Coleus plant, and No. 9 an ideal cutting.
Fig. B. — No. I shows a Zonal Pelargonium
grown tall. This kind of plant should be topped
as shown at No. 2. No. 3 depicts the top pre-
pared for insertion as a cutting ; No. 4, the wrong
way to cut off the stem when making the cutting.
No. 5 shows how to take cuttings from Fuchsias,
and No. 6 a cutting prepared. No. 7 depicts cuttings
in boxes ; No. 8, cuttings in pots on side shelves ;
and No. 9, cuttings in pots on high shelves under
the roof glass. They will all do well in such posi-
tions, also in warm frames. G. G.

THE BRIDAL WREATH.

The white Francoa (Bridal Wreath) is a well-
known greenhouse plant. The light pink species.
F. appendiculata, is not so often met with in
gardens. The latter makes an attractive pot
plant, and is also suitable for planting outdoors
in sheltered, well-drained situations. Now is the
time to sow seed of the Francoas. Use clean, well-
drained pots and light, sandy soil. Sow the seed
thinly, and place the pots in the warm corner of
the greenhouse. When the seedlings appear, place
the pots in full light. Pot off singly when large
enough to handle, and grow on in good sandy loam
and leaf-mould. Young plants of F. appendiculata
may be planted out during the summer. Choose
specially-drained sites for the plants in warm corners
of the rock garden, or plant at the foot of south
walls. The writer has recently seen a strong
clump growing on a bank, which is sheltered by
overhanging t:ees. Colin Ruse.

86

THE GARDEJ^

[February 15, 1913

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.
Chrysanthemums. — No class of plant is more
useful than these for beds or borders during the
early autumn, and the present is a very suitable
time for propagation. If a few stock plants were
lifted after blooming last autumn and placed in
a cold frame, good cuttings should be procurable
m plenty, which will root readily in a very slightly-
heated frame. They are easily handled if placed
in shallow boxes, from which thev mav be potted
off into 3-inch pots when well irootecl, and this
one shift should suffice, as thev may be planted out
during April.

Border Carnations. — In many districts these
have to be wintered in frames'; but. providing
the ground has been well prepared for them, there
is no reason now why they should not be planted
out during fine dry weather. A dressing of new
loam and wood-ashes to the beds or borders will
greatly facilitate their growth. Furm planting is
essential, and a dusting of soot will help to keep
off wireworm and slugs.

Dahlias. — Generally speaking, I look upon young
plants of Dahlias as being more satisfactorv than
old ones, provided thev are propagated early and
are good strong plants' when put out. With this
object in view a few tubers should be placed ui
heat, when they will soon throw up cuttings, which
should be taken off when from 3 inches to 4 inches
high. These root readily in a mixture of leaf-soil
and sand. Too high a temperature is not necessary,
as it induces a very soft growth, and this is detri-
mental.

FIower-Beds.^Now that most of the bulbs are
appearing above the soil, it is advisable to go over
all the beds and loosen the surface either with the
fingers or a small hand drag, taking care not to
injure the young growths of the bulbs or the roots
of the covering plants. Any losses of these latter
should be made good at once, so that the beds have
a regular appearance when in bloom, and, needless
to add, this work is best done when the surface of
the soil is conip.iratively dry.

Plants Under Glass.
Chrysanthemums (Single and Decorative).—

The present is probably as good a time as any
for the propagation of these, and the same system
as advised for outdoor varieties will answer well.
When propagatmg, do not overlook the fact that
good late varieties are speciallv useful, and extra
attention should be paid to this b.atch, as during
December and January there is often a shortage
of good long-stemmed flowers, which a good batch
of late Chrysanthemums will fill up nicely.

Zonal Pelargoniums. — A batch of cuttings
put in at this date makes good plants for autumn
and winter blooming. They will root readily in
any house where there is a little warmth, and for
preference they should be inserted singly in 2j-inch
pot^.

Ivy-Leaved Pelargoniums. — Though not used

as much now for cut flowers during the winter
\ as formerlj', they nevertheless are most useful,
especially where there is much table decoration,
the variety Mme. Crousse being very pretty for
this purpose. Propagate now and stop a few times
during the summer, and good bushy plants will be
the result.

Dielytra spectabilis, if introduced into a little
heat about this date, will throw up strongly, the
somewhat glaucous foliage and pendulous spikes
of flower making it a first-rate plant for house or
conservatory decoration.

Perpetual-Flowering Carnations. — Pot off the

young plants into 3-inch pots as soon as nicely
rooted, giving them a position near the glass
with a temperature of about 50°. Flowering plants,
now the days are getting longer, should be given a
slight top-dressing of soil and bone-meal, this
latter being recognised as one of the best manures
for Carnations.

Fruits Under Glass.
Melons. — These should be planted out as soon
as fit in a house where there is a good command
of heat, 65° to 70° at night being a suitable tempera-
ture. Where pipes run under the bed, there will
be no need to use manure for bottom-heat ; but,
failing pipes, the manure is very useful to give

the early plants a good start. A slate should be
placed beneath each plant to prevent the roots
going directly down into the manure, or too rank
a growth will result. Small heaps of soil are the
best to plant in, and these may be added to when-
ever necessary or as the roots show thickly on the
surface. Further sowings should be made for
succession.

Cucumbers. — Tliese also should be planted,
using somewhat lighter and richer soil for the
purpose than for Melons. Keep the houses of
both the above well damped down and the foliage
sprayed over on all bright days ; but during cold
weather a certain amount of discretion must be
used, as a drop in the temperatiure at night and
too much moisture mav result in the appearance of
mildew.

Tomatoes. — Young plants should be potted on
as they require it, autumn sown or struck plants
being probably large enough for their fruiting
pots, which should not be too large if verv earlv
crops are desired. Seedling plants should be kept
near the glass, with a temperature of 55° to 60°,
making further sowings as necessary to keep up
the supply.

Strawberries. — Early batches are now pushing
out their trusses of bloom, and these as they
expand must be carefully fertilised with rabbits'
tads to ensure a good set. If the blooms are not
already expanding, it might be advisable to fumigate
the plants to keep down fly, and, as syringings should
not be so frequent while they are in bloom, a spray-
ing under and over the foliage with sulphur and
soft soap will help to keep spider in abeyance.

The Kitchen Garden.

Onions. — On light soils the main crop of Onions
should be got in, selecting the varieties that are
noted for good keeping qualities, though by sowing
early some of the large-bulbed varieties will mature
quite well. On heavy soils it might be advisable
to delay sowing a little longer, but. providing the
weather is dry and the soil in a good workable
condition, there is no reason to delay sowing beyond
the end of the month.

Parsnips also may be sown now, the same con-
ditions applying as above. In each instance the
ground should be thoroughly well worked and a
good dressing of soot applied previous to sowing.

Hardy Fruits.
Currants (Red and White). — In last week's

calendar I spoke of pruning Gooseberries and dust-
ing with lime to keep off birds. This applies
equally well to Red and White Currants, and I
have certainly found it more efifective than stretch-
ing cotton over the bushes, and it is quicker to
put on. There is no need to stint the quantity of
lime, as a little falling on the soil will prove very
beneficial to the bushes.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)
Wobiirii P!nc€ Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Herbaceous Plants. — It the weather is open
and the ground in suitable condition, any planting
to be done may be proceeded with. Clumps that
have grown too large may be reduced, some good,
fresh soil worked in where the plants grew and small
pieces taken from the outside of the clump planted.
The bed or border should also receive a top-dressing
of old hot-bed manure or other light, rich material.

Dahlias. — Whenever cuttings 3 inches in length
are available, they should be taken and inserted
in 2j-inch pots, filled with sandy soil, and then
plunged in a brisk bottom-heat. If the cuttings
are kept sufficiently moist, they do not require to
be placed in a propagating-case.

The Rose Garden.
Trellises. — Wire trellises are objected to on
two grounds — first, on account of the wire chilling
the shoots during frosty weather ; and, secondly,
and perhaps with greater cause, on account of the
wires injuring the shoots by friction. Here we
have overcome these objections by covering
the wires on the side on which the plants are trained
with split 6-feet lengths of Bamboo stakes. The
nith is taken out of the Bamboos when they fit

nicely on to the wires, to which they are tied with
light copper wire. The light lattice-work exten-
sion screens are very artistic and easv of manipu-
lation, but they do not last long.

Plants Under Glass.

Caladiums. — These .\roids are highly decorative
either in the stove or in rooms. .\ portion of the
stock may now be started for early work. Place
them in a temperature of about '65° and spray
twice a day. When fairly started they should
be turned out of their pots, the ball reduced, and
then potted up into pots two sizes less than those
they occupied before, to be potted on in due course.
Loam, peat and old hot-bed manure, with a dash
each of sand and pounded charcoal, suits them.

Edging Plants. — A good stock of these should
be got ready, both for the conservatory and room
decoration. Suitable subjects include Fuchsia
Golden Fleece, Asparagus Sprengeri, variegated
Water Ivy, the variegated form of Vinca major,
Lonicera aurea reticulata, Tradescantias in varietv.
Fuchsia procumbens and Origanum sipyleura.

Calceolarias. — -These should now mostly be
ready for their final shift, and 7-inch pots are
generally used for this shift. They delight in
a light, rich, porous soil, and should not be
potted too firmly. A cool pit is the best position
for them. Beware of green fly, their only enemy.

Chrysanthemums. — Continue to pot off cuttings
as soon as they are well rooted. A slight spray in
the early afternoon on sunny days will prevent
flagging. More care will have to be taken
in watering these, as evaporation is now more
rapid and plants in small pots suffer quickly
unless closely attended to.

Cannas. — Many of these have very handsome
flowers in shades furnished by few other plants.
A batch may now be started, and a vinery at work
is a suitable position for them. Spray them daily
along with the Vines, and when tlrey have pushed
a little the rootstocks should be divided up with
the aid of a stout pointed stick and a pruning-
kiiife. Put them in small pots and pot on as
necessary.

Fruits Under Glass.

Stopping Vines. — The stopping of Vines is an
important operation, and should receive timely
attention. It consists, first, in stopping the leading
growth of the shoot, and, secondly, stopping the
laterals and sub-laterals. The leading shoot is
usuallv stopped at one joint beyond the embryo
bunch, but it is unwise to draw a hard-and-fast
line. .All laterals should be stopped beyond the
first joint.

Melons. — Where these are ready for planting,
the soil should be placed on the bed a day before-
hand. The bed should first be covered with turves
grass side downwards. The compost should consist
chiefly of good sound loam not broken up too finely.
About a sixth part of old Mushroora-bed-manure and
a little bone-meal and lime rubbish will make an
excellent compost. The plants should be put
on little mounds as a preventive of canker. Tie
to a stake at once.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Trees in Grass. — -It has been clearly proved
that orchard trees in grass do not yield their best
when the grass is allowed to grow up to the stem
of the tree. Where such is the case, it is therefore
advisable to scarify the ground for a distance of
3 feet from the stem and fork it lightly over,
working in a little lime and well-rotted manure.

The Vegetable Garden.

Onions. — If the weather is mild at this season
of the year, autumn-sown Onions begin to push,
and they will be greatly benefited by a light dress-
ing of nitrate of soda, fowl-manure or soot. The
ground should also be stirred with the Dutch hoe.
It seems early to sow yet, but if one is going in
for spring sowing in the open and one wishes to
dp on"'s best to escape the ravages of the Onion
fly, do not delay sowing a day after the ground is
in working order.

Spinach. — It is the early and late sowings of
Spinach which pay. As soon as the ground is in
order on a south border, make a sowing. It will
do nicely between the lines of the early Peas. I
am partial to Round Victoria.

Broccoli. — Go over the plants and remove all
decayed leaves, and if the ground is in a fit state,
hoe between the rows. Charles Comfort.

Bronmfidd Gardens, Davidson's Mains. Midlothian.

February 15, 1913.]

THE GAKDEN.

87

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE.

Polypodium irioides pendulum grandiceps. —

A liisliMi I .mil striking Fern of dark olive green
colouring Irom Queensland. .As shown, the plant
was low-growing — less than a foot high and about
the same through — the fronds many times branched
.ind somewhat tasselled at their extremities. From
Messrs. H. K. May and Sons. Edmonton.
AWARD OF MERIT.

Crocus chrysanthus E. A. Bowles.— .\ most
lieautiful and rehned variety, and certainly one of the
most desirable we have seen. To the predominant
vellow shade of the inner surfaces of the petals
there would appear to have been added a small
proportion of pale orange buff, the mingling of the
twain giving the variety an air of distinction.
Externally the flowers are lined or feathered with
dark purple. It is obviously a free and profuse
bloomer. Exhibited by Messrs. Barr and Sons,
Covent Garden, W.C.

NEW ORCHIDS.

There is no lack of novelties in the Orchid world,
and some extremely interesting and beautiful forms
were shown. Two first-class certificates were
granted, viz.. to Odontoglossum ardentissimum Ehor,
shown by Baron Bruno Schroder, Englefield Green ;
and Cymbidium Lady Colman Golden Queen,
shown by Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart., Gallon
Park.

.\wards of merit were made to each of the follow-
ing : Oncidioda Cooksoniae, from Messrs. Charles-
worth and Co., Hayward's Heath ; Odontoglossum
armandum, shown by C. J. Phillips, Esq., Seven-
oaks ; and Cymbidium J. Davis, sent by J. Gurney
Fowler, Esq., South Woodford.

The foregoing novelties were shown before the
Royal Horticidtural Society at the fortnightly
meeting held on February 4.

CULTURAL HINTS ON NEW AND
RARE PLANTS.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

[Continued from page 23.)

Spiraea Henryi, — Several new Spiraeas have oeen
introduced from China during the last few years.
I his white-flowered species being one of the best
In rich, loamy soil it develops quickly and attains
'X height of 5 feet or 6 feet. No pruning other than
an occasional thinning of the branches is required,
while it is easily increased by means of cuttings
m summer. It is a good plant for a specimen bed
or for a group.

PopulUS lasiocarpa, from China, is a remarkable
Poplar, for its leaves are sometimes r foot wide,
and it has the advantage of red leaf-stalks and
midribs. Like most other Poplars, it succeeds
best in moist ground, such as is found about the
borders of a lake or stream, where the trunk stands
clear of the water, but where the roots can take
advantage of the generous supply. Cuttings ot
ripened wood may be rooted during winter.

Rhododendron kamtchaticum, a dwarf-growing
plant from Northern Asia, should be given a
position where the ground is perpetually moist.
Planted on the margin of a bog, in peat and sphag-
num, it forms a dense mass i inch or 2 inches high.
Its habit of spreading by means of underground
shoots makes it possible to effect propagation by
division of the clumps. Otherwise it may be
raised from seeds in the ordinary way.

Pterocarya Paiiurus is an interesting new tree
from China %vhich may be grown in moist, loamy
soil of moderate depth. Its nearest well-known
relative is the Caucasian V. caucasica, which is
Iaio\vn by its long, pinnate leaves and racemes of
winged nuts. The leaves of the new tree are
equally ornamental, while the nuts are surrounded
by wide, circular wings, ftopagation is from
seeds or by grafting upon the common species.

Plagianthus Lyallii. — Although this New
Zealand shruli was introduced many years ago, it
is not generally grown on accoimt of its reqtiire-
ments being imperfectly understood. By planting
it in a sunny position, in light, well-drained, loamy
soil, it may be expected to grow well and produce
its pretty white flowers freely. Cuttings inserted
indoors in sandy soil may be rooted, but propa-
gation is more easily accomplished by layering the
branches in spring.

Fothergllla major is a North American shrub
which is valuable on account of its white flowers
in June and its golden foliage in autumn. It
thrives in moist peaty soil, and is most successful
when planted in a mass. Cuttings of side shoots
taken in Juiy and inserted in sandy peat may be
ront'-.l in a close, sliglitly-warmed frame.

Rhus Henryii may be grown tov;ards the back
of a shrubbery, or as a specimen plant on a lawn,
providing it is furnished with good loamy soil.
It is a strong-growing Chinese bush or small tree,
and the leaves colour well in autumn. No pruning
is necessary.

Liriodendron chinensis is the Chmese counter-
part of the North .American Tulip Tree. Of
vigorous constitution, it grows rapidly in good
loamy soil, and there is every reason to suppose
that it will attain the same height in this country
as its American relative, namely, 80 feet to 100 feet.
It appears to thrive quite well when grafted upon
I., tulip.ifera.

{To be continiceu.i

ROSES IN A KENTISH
GARDEN.

POSSIBLY the following notes about
Roses in a Kentish garden may interest
such of your readers as — like the
writer — are amateurs. Our so-called
summer of last year was harm-
ful to most, if not all, gardens.
With me it certainly was an especially
bad one so far as my Roses were concerned,
for, in addition to tmseasonable weather, I
was compelled to be absent from my garden
from March till June, just the very time
when Roses need constant attention. The sorry
appearance of their foliage and, indeed, of most
of the flowers in autumn was, I fully realise, the
unmistakable language in which thev reproached
me for my neglect. Still, in spite of that neglect,
and in spite of unfavourable weather, I have
derived much enjoyment from my Roses.

Betty has never done really well with me. but
t love her long pointed buds and the delicious
fragrance of her full-blown bloom. She seems to
whine at leing expected to flourish in this part of
Kent, but before ousting her I mean to try her
in another site, as she is said to bloom right up to
Christmas.

Black Prince, though not to be found in the
National Rose Society's catalogue, is a good dark
crimson Rose that I have known elsewhere to

give lovely bloom. He dots not se«m happy ni
his lodgings here, and though he has given me
some good flowers, he has not done so as frequently
as I expected.

Boadicea yields a sweet bloom, but is so very
shy. She never will look you full in the face,
and a drooping head is, in my opinion, a fatal
fault in a Rose.

Camoens is very sweet, very free-fiowering, and.
indeed, in all respects a very satisfactory Rose
with me.

Captain Christy and Captain Hayward both

do fauly well with me, but they are not up to the
.'lescription given of them in catalogues. This may,
perhaps, be accoimted for by the fact that I bought
niy plants of both at an auction, a supposition
strongly supported by the fact that I have had
some good blooms from some half-standards ot
Captain Hayward I only planted from Messrs.
Ben Cant's nurseries last year.

Celine Forestier.— I advert to this Rose,
albeit a climber, because for five years I have been
trying hard to get her to flourish on a corner post
in my verandah, under almost hopeless conditions,
facing west, getting but little sun and a lot of
moisture. She resented being placed in such a
gloomy comer, and refused to give me any bloom
from the long, lanky, almost leafless stem which
more or less entwined itself along the iron arch to
its left. However, constant care — I might almost
say devotion — has at length softened her resentfu.l
spirit, and last autumn I was rejoiced to find
a fine healthy offshoot springing up from the
junction with the stock, giving promise of better
things to come. I hate to be defeated, even by
a Rose ; that is, I hate being tmable to get a Rose
to thrive where I particularly want one to grow,
and really, for an amateur, I have been wonder-
fully successful, for I have made Roses grow and
bloom where I have been assured by a real rosariau
friend it %vas quite hopeless to expect them to grow.
Some time ago I remember showing this expert
friend of mine a Marie Bret and a Carmine Filial
in good bloom where he had said they would never
thrive. He pointed to his walking-stick and said,
" Well, I believe you would make this stick grow
if yon tried." But I must not boast, for 1 am sadly
aware of the fact that I have had some failures.
Is it not the best General who has the fewest '

Possibly my success at times is due to the farts
that I am an amateur and an ignorant but deter-
mined old man. Still, I am morally convinced,
from my limited experience, that determination,
coupled with agreeable nourishment and constant
loving care, will work wonders with Roses, as
with children. For Roses are like children. Let
them but feel that you really love them and want
them to please you, and I firmly believe that nine
times out of ten they will succumb to your affection
and do their best to reward your love and care of
them. In darmg to write thus I know I am
opposing one of our greatest rosarians, whose
intense love of the Queen of all Flowers induced
him to censure so pungently those who " ha^ e
sent Her Majesty by lobbies and back staurs into
dismal chambers." But I write not to rosarians.
but to amateurs, and, with all due deference, I
still maintain we are at times compelled to make
the best of our circumstances and conditions,
and to call upon our children to yield us loving
compliance in our endeavour to do so. Since
writing the above I have derived much comfort
from a perusal of Mr. Walter C. Clark's interesting
"Experiences of Growing Roses Under Pines"
in the National Rose Society's .Annual for last year.

88

THE GARDEN.

[February 15, 1913.

Charles Lefebvre. — Th»s pop\ilar favourite is
as kind tu me as I try to be to him. And, oh ! what
a soft velvety crimson, sweet-smelling flower he
l^ives me !

Chateau de Clos Vougeot. — In 191 1 this
Rose gave me some truly magnificent blooms,
soft and velvety, and of the deepest red I have
seen in any Rose. It continued to bloom almost
without a break throughout the summer, giving
me the first flower on June i, and I find by my
note-book it was still in bloom on November 9.
It is a very sweet Rose.

Claudius. — I had my first bloom from this new-
Rose on June 15 in 1911, and a deliciously sweet
one it was. On July ir I recorded another thus,
" A real gem and so sweet," I had a few fairly
good blooms in 1912, but not with the erect
head of the previous year, due, doubtless, to the
heavy rains.

Commandant Felix Faure does well with me,

holds his head well up and is very sweet. I got
my plants from Messrs. Cocker and Sons ol
Aberdeen. I am rather inclined to think it is
not a bad plan to procure one's Roses from a colder
chmate than that of one's own garden, and
experience rather supports the idea.

Comtesse du Cayla. — I fell in love with this
Rose from the gorgeous colotur of one worn by a
voung lady in a railway carriage, and procured it
on the recommendation of the young lady's father,
to whom I was forced to introduce myself. It
IS hideed a Rose of beauteous colouring, but is
better in a lady's dress than in a garden, as it
droops its head despairingly. However, she is a
continuous bloomer.

Corallina. — A Rose that smells sweetly and is
superb in the bud stage. A good bloomer in
autumn and does well with me. The colour is
very attractive.

Countess of Annesley.— A deliciously sweet
Rose, but has not done well where I planted her,
so I played " post office " with her and several
other Roses last autumn.

Countess of Caledofi, Countess of Oxford,
David Harum and Dean Hole, — None of these
Roses ha\c di>jK' as well with me as I expected,
and, as they are sulkier than ever, I shall do
with them as with my Countess of Annesley.

Dr. Andry and Dr. Grill.— Both sweet, good

Roses and very satisfactory in my garden. Hardy
and free-fliiwi-ring.

Edward Mawley.— I hardlv like to say what I
feel about this great-boomed Rose. I paid
half-a-guinea for one plant in a pot, and, as far as
my experience goes, I would gladly exchange it for
any sweet-smelling Rose that grows.

Enchantress. — Even during the neglected and
most unfavourable season of last year, I have had
quite a profusion of bloom from this creamy white
Tea.

Eugenie Lamesch. — A charming little dwarf
Rose that thrives splendidly with me and gives me
constant clusters of orange yellow blooms, which
are always very acceptable.

Fisher Holmes. — A well-kno%vn, good Rose
that has done splendidly with me. I have two on
my espalier that have been a constant delight to
me and my friends as we walk along it, as it is good
to look at. very sweet, and lasts well when plucked.

G. C. Waud. — Described in the National Rose
Society's catalogue as " a vigorous dwarf Rose
of most distinct shade of colour." Has done, so
far, fairly well with me. Its perfume is deliciously
sweet, and it promises to be all that one wants.

G. Nabonnand. — A wholly satisfactory Rose
with me, except that he is inclined to hang his
head a bit. Gave me his first bloom in June,
and bloomed well again in autumn.

General Jacqueminot is very sweet, and his
large velvety blnora is very grateful to the eye.

General Schablikine. — I had this Rose sent to
me from P. Nabonnand with a great flourish ol
trumpets, but in my opinion he is " not in it '
with his rival General, and if his tactics do not
improve he shall certainly " be called upon to
retire." G. B. W.

{To be continued.)

BOOKS.

Herbals.* — At the present moment there is
in a bookshop in Liverpool an " immaculate " copy,
as the dealers express it, of one of the most beautiful
herbals in existence, viz., the " De Historia
Stirpium " of Leonhard Fuchs, published in 1542.
I have paid that shop more than one visit, just
to have the pleasure of turning over its pages, for,
as Mrs. Arber says, the zenith of book illustration
in the herbal is perhaps reached in this exquisite
volume. How I should like to one day carry it
home ! .Alas ! its price is prohibitive. I would
have to produce from £35 to £38 to be able to do
so. .-Ul old gardening works have appreciated
very much in value of late years, and few nowadays
can afford to possess themselves of the gems.
However, as wise people know that half a loaf i^
better than no bread, so on the same principle
they will find " Herbals " is better than no Fuchs,
no Brunfels and no Crispian van de Passe. It
is full of excellent reproductions of some of the
most characteristic illustrations in these and other
herbals of the years between 1470 and 1670. which
is the period covered by Mrs. Arber in her book.
I have carefully compared a certain number with the
originals and, taking these as samples, I can truly
say that they are most faithful reproductions,
and that the authoress has been very fortunate
in her photograplier, Mr. W. Tams of Cambridge.
There are no fewer than twenty-one whole-page
plates and ri3 " figures in the text." If one wants
to turn to all the examples of one author, they are
a little troublesome to find ; and I would suggest
the insertion of an inde.x of authors' names, with
the plants illustrated following on under each one.
This would be a great convenience. The letterpress
professes to deal with the " origin and evolution "
(see the title-page) of the herbal. With all respect
to the learned lady who has given us this interesting
work, I cannot help feeling that the title is somewhat
misleading. When I opened the book for the
first time, I imagined I would find " all about "
herbals in its pages. I always thought that there
were three principal factors in the genesis and.
development of the herbal — medicine, botany and
horticulture. As Mrs. Arber practically passes
the first and the last of these by and concentrates
herself upon the second, I think this should have
been indicated, and that a title such as " Herbals
in Their Relation to Botanical Science " would have
been more appropriate. The whole is written from
a botanist's point of view, and not a herbalist's ;
so much so. indeed, that the authoress gets almost
angry because Dioscorides' classification is not up-
to-date and certain other people's illustrations are
not moderrly botanical. {Quare: Would she expect
to find in Pliny a disquisition on the " motor" ?)

• "Herbals," by Agnes Arber; prioe 6s. Published by
the University Press, Canibridge.

If such a change were made, everyone would know
what to expect when they purchased the book, and
the interest in its contents would be just as great.
In a small space much valuable information is
given. The happenings of the high-water-mark
era of the herbal are unfolded by a well-known
botanist, and, what is so nice, they are so related
as to be quite understandable by that celebrated
personage, " the man-in-the-street." One or
two comments on its contents I should like to
make. I am a little surprised to read that the fable
of the Goose Tree was rejected in the later editions
of Gerard. As I read Johnson I hardly think it
was. Again, as a friend who dabbles in biblio-
graphy points out, Choulant's " Graphische Incun-
abeln fuer Naturgeschichte imd Medicin, 1858,"
ougbt to be m her second appendix. It is a biblio-
graphy and history rich in its descriptions of Latin
herbals. .\nd in the first, since Bartholomie s
Anglicus finds a place, ought not P. de Crescenzi
and Vincent de Beauvais also to be mentioned ?
Lastly, a full list with dates of the various editions
of all the works included in Appendix I. would
add much to its value, especially if in two or three
cases the more accurate word " reprint " were used
instead of " another edition," as, for example,
in referring to the r904 Parkinson. These little
flies do not in the least spoil the flavour of the
ointment. " Herbals " is a book to buy, to read
and to keep. It is a muUum in parvo of many
of the most famous herbals of a most interesting
period of their history. Joseph J.^cob.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— 2'/i«' Editor intenUs to
make 'J'hb G.vuden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
unce, HO mattrr what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that objeet will make a special feature of the "Ansiver^
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only
and addressed to the Editor of 'J'hr Gardkn. 20, TarlMock
Street, Comnt Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation h&
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and fioivering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps t/tat are not characteristic of t/ie plant. Letters-
on business should be sent to the Pubi.ishek.

FLOWER GARDEN.

INJURY TO ANTIRRHINUMS {fl, F. P.J. —We Hud
ueithnr insect nor fungus on the Antirrhinums. We-
suspect the cause of the death of the shoots is rather
frost than a boring insect, and the wet and changeable-
weatlier is probably larucly responsible for the spotting
of the foliage.

WINTER-FLOWERING STOCKS (M. C'.).— Neither
fungus nor insect is to blame for the condition of your
Stocks. They are suffering as the result of some cultural
error. Perhaps tlie air has been too dry, or they have
become either dry or too wet at the roots, which has shown
itself in the dyina of the leaf-tops, &c., especially as the-
plants have apparently been kept in a rather tiiirh atmo-
spliere and tlie leaves have becomi- thin aiii easily damac'cd.

DWARF PLANTS FOR FLAGSTONE PATH [R. H. K.).
— Some of the dwarfest of plants sniti-d to tiie purpose
are *Erinus alpinus. *E. a. albus, Mentha Requienii,
Arenaria balearica. Campanula puUa, C. pusilia, C. p.
alba, Sedum hispanicum, S. h. var. glaucum, S. Lydium^
•Dianthus squarrosa. *D. ciesia, *Linaria pilosa, *L.
hepatictefolia. Thymus lanuginosus, T. Serpylhim cocci-
neus (quite a gem), *Draba aizoides, Veronica repeus
and Hutchinsia alpina. In certain circumstances the
Aubrietias are valuable ; in others they occupy too much
space. The whole of the above are perennials. Those
marked with an asterisk may be grown from seed if so
desired. The better way, usually, is to introduce them
by little pieces of plants, first raking out the interstices-
between the stones to a depth of 2 inches and chai^rim;
them with good soil.

^^

No.;;;2i53.— Vol. lxxvii.

GARDEN.

-^^=

February 22, 1913.

CONTENTS.

NllTKS OF IlIK WEKK
OORRESPONDENCK

Lauru^tinus luoidum
A good Tort-h Lily
*' Carthago est dclen-

dum"

Sorious losses among

lloses

A National Daffodil
Society
Result of tlie Aciostics
Fortljcoiiiinu events..
Anothrr FrxooiD Pest
Mysterious diseaf>e
of Hvaeintlis and
Datfodils . . . .
Rose OiRDEN
Hose - pruning and
ttie mild weather
:>ome of the newer
Hybrid Tea Roses
Greenhouse
Notes on Chrysan-
themums . .
A new Fern . .
Fi,owee Gardes
Some Kood annual
flowers for edginss
liilies : A causerie
Daffodil notes

Science in HORTicrLTURE
The ripening of fruit 95
Trees .^nu Shrcus
'I'hc Daphnes and
how to grow them 96
GUAi'TixG Standard

Apple Trees. ... 97
Gardening of the Week
For .Southern gar-
dens 98

For Northern gar-
dens 98

Cultdral Hints on
New and Hare
Plants 99

How TO Grow

UllLLYHOOKS . . 99

Aretylone ga« getiera-
tor refuse fai uardcn
crop? 99

Lilies of the Valley . . 99

Fruit Garden
Wounds on fruit
trees; Their danger
.ind prevention.. 100

Answers to Corre-
spondents
Flower garden . . 100

ILLUSTRATIOKS.

A hanging plant of Campanula isophylla alba .. .. 91

A ii'w and distinct Polypodium for the greenhouse .. 92

A bioad edging of Alyssum White Carpet 93

A bed of Lilium ISrownii at Kew 94

• iroup of Lilium rubelhmi raised from se.d . . . . 95

Grafting standard Apple trees 96,97

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department oJ horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

Tiie Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
bid he mil not be responsible lor their sate return. All
reasonable care, however, will he taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeneour to return non-accepted
contributions.

.is rajards photographs, i/ paiimeill be desired, the Editor
aslcs that the price required lor reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo.
graphcr or omter ot the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible lor the return ol artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt ol a prool must not be taken as eridence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Gardes will alone
be lecognised as acceptance.

Offices: 20, Tavistock .Vtreel, Corent Garden, ^\'.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

A Good Valerian. — The genus Centranthus
contains several species of ornamental herbaceous
plants, excellent for borders where ordinary garden
soil exists. C. coccineus grows about two feet
high, is crimson in colour. a[id very effective in a
mass or clumps at the back or middle of the border.
The flowering period is from June to September,
and plants can be purchased for a small sum.

Mulching Paeonies. — Between now and the end
of .March — the earlier the better in forward seasons
— is a good time to apply a nourishing mulch to
Paionics. There plants are heavy feeders, and
h.-avy drinkers, too, by the way, so there cannot be
anvthing more beneficial than well-decayed manure
placed around each plant, but not in or actually
touching the crowns. Where cow-manure can be
obtained, this should be given the preference,
particularly if the soil be of a light nature. It is
richer than ordinary stable manure, and experience
has shown recognised growers that its use better
suits the needs of P.^onies.

Our Special Spring Number. — Our next issue

will be considerably enlarged, and will contain a
number of interesting and useful articles on spring
gardening. Seed-sowing, for both greenhouse and
outdoor flowers, the best bulbous flowers that
should be planted in spring, concise cultural
details for the best fifty alpine plants for a
small rock garden, and the first of a new series
of articles on the Heath garden will be special
features. Practical articles on Peas, Potatoes
and Tomatoes will also be included. In addition
to numerous black-and-white illustrations, there
will be a coloured supplement of Antirrhinums,
The price of this special issue will, as usual, be one
penny.

Begonia manicata. — .-^ fine group of this hand-
some Mexican Begonia, to be seen in the green-
house at Kew, directs attention to its virtues for
conservatory decoration during the early months
of the year. As seen at Kew, individual plants,
including the inflorescences, are as much as 3J feet
high ; tlie base a group of large ornamental leaves,
and the upper part fine, graceful inflorescences
of pinkish flowers. In addition to the type, there
are varieties with golden-variegated and fringed
leaves. It is one of the easiest of the shrubby,
or rather the rhizomatous. Begonias to cultivate,
for it may be easily propagated from the offsets
which appear from the semi-creeping stems,
and it grows well in pots or pans in a well-drained
compost made up of peat, loam, leaf-mould and
sand.

A Beautiful Greenhouse Climber.^lt is

seldom that HardenbTgia comptoniana, a
hard-wooded Australian climber, is seen in good
condition ; not that it is very difficult to grow, but
because it is not well known, although a very old
garden plant. Its proper place is the cool green-

house, for in such a structure it is safe from thrips
and red spider, which prove its worst enemies
in warmer houses. In the Temperate House at
Kew two plants were noticed recently in full
flower, and few more beautiful sights can be
imagined than these two large plants perfectly
covered with racemes of charming, deep blue
or violet, Pea-shaped flowers. This climber
proves most satisfactory when planted out in a
compost of sandy peat and loam. It must be
carefully watered, for it soon suffers if allowed
to become dry.

Big Bud in Black Currants. — This pest is

likely to be migrating from one bush to another
earlier than usual this season, and for that reason
we give particulars of a remedy that Messrs.
Pearson and Sons of Lowdham, Notts, first made
public, and which we have since proved to be good.
Use 20Z. of best quality soft soap and 40Z. of
Quassia chips to one gallon of water (soft for
prefereiice). Steep the chips in cold water for
some hours ; then bring the water to boiling point
and allow it to simmer for twenty minutes.
Dissolve the soft soap in a separate vessel and add
to the Quassia liquor while warm. Spray with
this mixture as soon as the Currant leaves unfold,
and repeat it at intervals of ten to fourteen days
until the end of May.

A Sweet-Scented Annual. — Now that seed
orders are being made out and sent to the seedsmen,
we would draw attention to the little Night-
scented Stock, Mathiola bicornis. This is not
grown nearly so extensively as it ought to be.
It is true that during the daytime the plants have
nothing to commend them, but in the early evening
the naked-looking stems are transformed into
flowering wands. But the fragrance is the feature.
There are few greater joys in gardening than to
sit by an open window on a summer evening and
inhale the fragrance of this little Stock. We always
sow it close to the dwelling-house, where a modicum
of lime in the shape of mortar from the walls is
present. The early part of April is the time to
sow the seed, but order it now.

An Easily-Grown Bulbous Plant.— Velthemia

viridifolia is an excellent subject for the con-
servatory during the early months of the year,
for it may be had in flower from December tmtil
March if a little attention is paid to the period at
which it is started into growth, while it is equally
effective either used alone or mixed with plants
having white flowers. A native of South Africa,
it is recognised by its long, vivid green leaves,
which are up to 18 inches long and 2i inches wide,
and by its rose or pinkish, cream-spotted flowers,
which are borne in dense spikes. At potting-
time the large. Onion-shaped bulbs are placed on
the surface of the soil, or but slightly covered,
and a compost of loamy soil, into which a little
'eaf-mould and sand has been mixed, usually suffices
to produce excellent plants.

90

THE GAIIDEN.

[February 22, 1913-

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents. )

Laurustinus lucidum. — This, referred to by
your correspondent " J. A. D." on page 67,
February 8 issue, is largely planted in the Isle
of Wight, where it does well, flowering in May.
•Besides the flowers being double the size of the
common variety, they are of a pure white. It
can be obtained, I believe, from Messrs. Gauntlett
of Chiddingfold under . the name of Viburnum
Tinus lucidum.— C. G. O. B.

A Good Torch Lily. — On page 82 of The Garden
of February 15, in the notice of Tritomas (Kni-
phofias) I miss the yery best of the dwarf varie-
ties, Marie Derken. This makes a sturdy plant
I J feet high, flowers very freely, and is much
hardier and less affected by winter damp than any
others. The colour of the spikes is brilliant — a
gem, in fact ; and every collection should embrace
the noble, deep golden-flowered Star oi Baden-
Baden, which attains to 5 feet.^GEORGE Buny.^rd,
Maidstone.

" Carthago est delendum." — I apologise for
my stupid blunder on page 75, issue February 8.
I have, however, this consolation — that without
it we would not have had " G. H. E.'s " interesting
little bit of poetry on page 78 of last week's issue.
I rejoice to find that while he so justly and so
tenderly finds fault with the letter, no blame is
attached to the spirit of the quotation. Delenda
est Carthago z^a National Dafiodil Society must
be formed, .^t is the persistency of the Roman
oritor that I feel I must copy, if that which I so
much desire is to be a fait acr:ompli. — J. Jacob.

Rose Rosabelle. — Among the newer climbing
Roses I strongly recommend RosabeUe (Bruant,
at Poitiers), which received a first-class certificate
from the National Horticultiural Society of France.
It is a beautiful and mildew-proof Rose, with glossy
and almost persistent foliage, purple-bronzed in
youth, and it has a vigorous habit. The elegant,
fragrant flowers are of a lovely pink colour, with
salmon-like shades, and the reverse of the petals
of a fine China pink hue. The flowers are rather
drooping, but this must be imputed to the rambling
and weeping character of the species. I have a
plant in my Rose garden which gave me entire
satisfaction and pleasure the first year it was planted,
and I intend to plant a second as a very high
weeping standard. It will perhaps interest English
readers if I tell them that Anemone Hepatica
triloba flowered this year on January 10 in my
garden near Fribourg. I was then in Paris, and
my boys sent me a few of these lovely little flowers
in their letters. — Baronne A. de Graffeuried-
ViLLARS, Clidtenu de La Poya, Fribourg, Switzer-
land.

Serious Losses Among Roses. — 1 am tempted
to respond to Mr. Blair's in^'ltation in The Garden
of February 8, page 66, as I seldom see my district
represented in your excellent paper. We had a
snowstorm on November 28, while Roses were in
full leaf and flowering freely. Two days later the
temperature fell to zero, and the following night
it rose to 4° Fahr. Among climbing Roses Crimson
Rambler suffered most severely, one plant being
killed outright. R6ve d'Or was also seriously dam-
aged, but it may yet recover. Other Roses show
more or less damage. The only standards Idlled
are those of Jeannie Dickson, budded on Briar.
Among dwarf Roses Mrae. Jules Grolez and

Laurette Messimy have been the most injured.
Griiss an Teplitz, within a few feet of Crimson
Rambler, shows no sign of injury, and Blairii No. 2,
close to Mme. Jules Grolez, is still bearing last
summer's foliage quite fresh and green. None of
my newly-planted Roses suffered. Generally speak-
ing, those Roses most prone to mildew suffered,
and among standards those on the rugosa stock
did better than those on the Briar. — M. H. Scott-
NiCHOLSON, Burn Close. Carlisle.

A National Daffodil Society.— The majority

of Daffodil-fanciers will heartily agree with the
suggestion put forward by the Rev. J. Jacob and
others, " that the time has come when steps should
be taken to see if a National Daffodil Society
could not be formed." Mr. Jacob furnishes us
with his reasons, comparisons and facts which are
evident and galling to those who desire freedom,
progress and a more commanduig position, which
it deserves. According to the Royal Horticultural
Society's Book of Arrangements for 1913 (see
page 57), I notice that the society is restricted
and fettered by its own regulations, for there we
read that " The society being registered as a
scientific institution it is exceedingly doubtful
whether it is not- legally prohibited from ofiering
money prizes at any of its shows to any of its
members." The responsibility is placed on the
shoulders of a few leaders. The Royal Horticul-
tural Society cannot be blamed for the want of
generosity. To my mind its own laws prohibit
progress. This is an additional reason why we
should agitate for a National Daffodil Society and
why all lovers of this favourite flower should render
what assistance they can in its formation.—
J. E. D , Talygarn.

1 have read Dr. Lower's letter in your last

issue with much interest and sympathy. I am
inclined to think that if Dr. Lower could use his
persuasive powers effectually on " G. H. E.,"
whose poem appears just above his letter (and
who has previously only been known to us as a
maker of Poets, not poems), one of the principal
obstacles to the formation of a National Daffodil
Society would disappear. But Dr. Lower would
have to be a better pleader than I have been. —
F. Herbert Chapman.

As a Dafiodil enthusiast and one who

woiJd like to see a greater diffusion of the doings
of the Daffodil world, I vei;ture to address you
on this much-vexed subject. Have the would-be
promoters of the National Society carefully weighed
the results of their movement, if successful ?
Three results would seem to me likely to follow :
(i) A serious interference with the Midland Daffodil
Society, if not its abolition. (2) Virtually a break
with the Royal Horticultural Society. (3) The
incurrence of a heavy financial responsibility.
As to No. I, can supporters of the Midland Daffodil
Society logically and with loyalty to such society
promote another society which may supersede
the Midland Society ? As to No. 2, can the pro-
moters of the new society ensure an attendance
such as the shows under the auspices of the Royal
Horticultural Society ensure ? As to No. 3. why
incur any financial responsibilities while the Royal
Horticultural Society is wilUng to save all these ?
Is there not another way of obtaining our wants
than breaking up one of our friends and breaking
off with the other ? I would suggest that a more
universal membership of the Midland Society
is one way, as if we put funds into that society's
hands it might issue fuller reports and dis-
seminate the news of the Daffodil world; and I
would further suggest that a combined and

firin representation to the Royal Horticultural
Society's committee might ensure a better service
from that committee. — C. Lemesle Adams.
[Would the Midland Daffodil Society be willing
to form itself into a National Society ? If so,,
a great initial difficulty would be overcome. Work-
ing details could be arranged later by mutual
consent. — Ed.]

I have been pleased to see in recent issues

of The Garden an article and letters respecting
the formation of a National Daffodil Society. I
am much in favour of the formation of such a
society, as, although the Midland Society is most
useful and well managed, it cannot possibly do
the work which a National Society would be able
to do. — J. Mallender, Scrooby.

Hardiness of Campanula isophylla. — The para-
graph by your esteemed contributor Mr. Arnott
on page 66, February 8 issue, prompts me to reply
that plants have grown for years in PortobeUo
in an open border facing east. They had become
so large that advice was sought as to dividing them.
The border was raised somewhat from the adjoin-
ing path and ran along the side of a dwelling-house.
In another part of the town this plant grew well
in an ordinary herbaceous border, but suffered
much from wind. The soil here was distinctly
light. I have grown the white form for many
years in pots that were always frozen solid in severe
weather. Then the foliage and shoots became
quite limp, I presume through lack of available
water, for as soon as a thaw came they never
seemed any the worse. I grew them in a very
draughty corridor, where they were only protected
from rain. To get nice plants I encouraged new
growth as much as possible as soon as the flowers
were past, never allowing the soil to get dry, and
I thus got very long growths, which by the end of
July, throughout August and into September were
simply a mass of bloom. The enclosed photo-
graph is of a plant so treated. It was in a 7 inch
pot, suspended by wires attached to a cord and
pulley for convenience in watering. This plant
measured exactly 63 inches from bottom to top,
and had not been repotted for four years. It
faced a slanting glass roof backed by a wall, so
the flowers were all on one side. It was grown
naturally without training, except that a few
growths were twined about the wires supporting
the pot. I was not aware this Campanula was
considered tender. Mere cold may, I think, be
disregarded, but strong wind and soaked foliage
are certainly detrimental. — W. T. Bashford,
PortobeUo, Midlothian.

I have read with interest the remarks of

Mr. Arnott in your issue of February 8 regarding
Campanula isophylla standing the winter in some
parts of the country but not in others. I have
some plants, 8 inches across, growing on a rockery
facing north-east, and up to the present time
they are looking quite healthy, although, of course,
we have had a very mild winter so far, but they :
have stood 10° to 12° of frost. — W. Coles, The
Gardens, Wallacefield, Croydon.

In reference to the note about this plant

on page 66, it may be interesting to some readers
to know that I have grown it in the open for several
years in some cast-iron vases fully exposed, and .
it has stood the severest frosts. I leave it undis-
turbed through the winter, and then break,
it up in the spring and plant it alternately with
blue Lobelia round the edge of the vase, which,
makes a very pretty combination. — C. Williams.
The Gardens, Selmont House. Doncaslcr.

February 22. 1913.]

THE GAllDEN.

91

Seedlings of this plant raised during the

summer of 191 1 wire planted out in the open
!;arden at Lambay Island and remained there the
following winter. We experienced no severe
frost, but the ground was often very wet. These
plants were eventually planted on a rock garden.
Tliey flowered profusely during the summer. Some
years since the writer put out some plants from
pots on a small rockery in Hertfordshire, .\lthough
these were partially protected during the follow-
ing winter, only one plant out of about a dozen
survived, and this did not
grow strong enough to produce
flowers. The conclusion is that
this lovely Campanula is not hardy,
4nul can only be grown in th? open
in localities where severe frosts are
practically unknown. As hanging
plants for windows, also for use in
h.iskets during the summer, these
•subjects arc invaluable. — C. Ruse,
Jreland.

MYSTERIOUS DISEASE OF
HYACINTHS AND DAFFODILS.

I OR several seasons past the Hyacinths 1
potted up for trial purposes by my '

F

stopped

RESULT OF THE
ACROSTICS.

We now have much pleasure in
announcing the prize- wmners in the
Acrostic Competition. No one cor-
rectly solved more than four out
■of the eight set, and only two
<■' Elm Bampton " and " R. P. B.")
had this number to their credit.
In both cases the correct solutions
were those of Nos. 1, 2, 6 and 7.
According to the conditions already
iumounced, the first and second
prizes will be equally divided
between these two. In five cases
three correct solutions have been
sent in, viz., by " Leander," W.
Bond, L. A. Louden, Mrs. Florence
Jones and " White Lady." The
acrostics correctly solved were
Nos. "i, 2, 3, 6 and 7. grouped in
■various ways. The third prize will
be divided between these five.

In the course of the next two
or three weeks we hope to have
time to study the results in detail,
and we will then comment upon
them. Guided by our experience
in the present competition, we
intend to outline another on similar
lines, which we hope to conduct
■during the~winter of 1913-14.

Prize-List. — Equal firsts: Mr^:.
Macahster. Hamslade. Bampton.
North Devon ; and Mr. R. P
Brotherston. Tyninghame, Preston-
kirk, X.B. Equal thirds: Mr.
H. Ticehurst, 43. Leander Road,
Brixton ; Mr. W. Bond, 60, Bostal
Lane, .Abbev Wood, Kent ; Mr.
L. A. Louden, Louden House.
South Woodford ; Mrs. Florence
Jones, 21, West Bank Road, Birkenhead
H. R. Darlington, Park House, Potter's Bar.

Sixteen competitors sent in two correct solutions

ANOTHER FUNGOID PEST. Daffodils potted up with a view to exhibiting

the blooms in March shared the same fate as the
Hyacinths, only they were not quite so badly
affected.

Last autunin we procured some nice fresh
Kettering loam and potted up both Hyacinths and
firm have failed in a very puzzling ! Daffodils in it after it had been turned several
manner. They have started to grow, ; times and well aired. All bulbs have done well
and then, when the tops have been I in this soU with the exception of Hyacinths, which
2 inches to 3 inches high, growth has '• made splendid roots, and then, just about the
and many have failed to develop time they were brought inside, the tips of the roots

began to go brown, and after a
week or two half the roots were
quite decayed ; at least, the worst
specimens were. In some cases
there was much less damage done.
Having exhausted every theory
as to the cause of the damage,
but leaning strongly to the idea of
a fungus pest, I at last sent two
good specimen bulbs in their pots
to the Nottingham University, and
Professor Carr, the resident botanist
there, had the matter thoroughly
investigated, and reports that 'he
trouble is caused by the fungus
Pythium Barganum, and that sec-
tions cut through the roots of the
Hyacinths revealed the fungus in
all stages of growth. Now, this
is a decided gain to know what
kind of enemy one is fighting,
but at present I am quite in the
dark as to what causes the fimgus
to attack the healthy roots.

After being potted the bulbs were
placed on ashes, and were plunged
in and lightly covered with
Cocoanut fibre, a small inverted
pot having been previously placed
over the bulb. When removed
from the plunging material, the
plants looked really well, both as
regards roots and tops ; but, as
before stated, the roots soon began
to go wrong. The soil did not seem
the least bit too wet, and looked
beautifully fresh and sweet. Some
Hyacinths potted in fibre are not
attacked by the fungus, but have
roots as white as snow. Last yeai
some Daffodils grown in boxes for
cut bloom were so badly affected
that they were quite rootles, and
could be easily pulled up by taking
hold of the foliage. I was con-
■vinced that it was no fault of the
bulbs, as some of the same varieties
grown in fibre were all right.
Now, this year, Daffodils treated
in the same way, only planted in
the Kettering loam, have done
excellently, and have had roots
protruding from the bottom of the
boxes some 4 inches to 6 inches ;
yet in the same soil the Hyacinths

.\ H.\NGING PLANT OF CAMP.\NUL.\ ISOPHYLL.A .ALB.\ GROWN BV
MR. W. T. BASHFORD, PORTOBELLO, MIDLOTHIAN. THIS

MEASURED 5 FEET 3 INCHES FROM BASE TO SUMMIT.

and Mrs. their flower-spikes, while others have flowered but ' have gone wrong. I am perfectly sure, from
poorly. On examining the roots they have letters one sees in the columns of this and
been found more or less damaged, in some cases ' other gardening papers, that there are many
entirely gone, in others partly decayed. For sufferers from this pest, and a preventive or cure
a long time we attributed the failure to eel- i would be welcomed by many.

worm, or a similar whitish grub just visible to the Only a few days ago one of our correspondents
naked eye. Consequently, we had the soil sterilised j sent some Roman Hyacinth bulbs which had failed
March i. — Societe Franpair^e d'HorticuUiire de I and hoped for an improvement ; but the case was j to flower. These were quite healthy and plump
Londres Meeting. 1 as bad as ever, and, unfortunately, a large batch of! as to the bulbs, but when one looked for roots

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
February 28. — Beckeiih^im Horticultural Socie'y's
Meeting and Lecture.

92

THE GARDEI^.

[February 22, 1913-

there were none. There had been roots, but they
had decayed completely away. Some bulbs potted
up for trial from the same batch have given us
better bloom than we have had for years, which
proves that the fault lies with the soil or environ-
ment, and not with the bulb. One reason why T
have ventilated this question is that those who are
suffering from the effects of the same disease
should not lay the blame upon the bulbs, but seek
for the cause of failure in other du"ections. Another
reason is that I have hopes of hearing from one
of your numerous readers that he or she has been
plagued with the same trouble and has found a
remedy for it, for that is what we all want.
Lowdhanu Notts J. Duncan Pearson.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

ROSE-PRUNING AND THE MILD
WEATHER.

There are many readers, no doubt, much exercised
in mind as to what they should do in the way of

" The Book of the Rose," by the Rev. Foster
Melliar, the author refers to a very early season —
1893 — and says that the plants " bled " a great deal
that year, owing to the very forward growths at
pruning-time, and although the ground around
was kept quite damp for some days by the over-
flowing sap, yet subsequent growth did not seem
to suffer thereby.

Those who have had occasion to transplant
their Roses will be fortunate in having retarded
plants, and if one could have foreseen such
a season, it would have been a good plan to
have just raised the plants a little and dropped
them back again in their own positions. I have
plants that have been moved three or four times
in the course of the last three months, and they
are in a nice dormant condition. If we have no
very severe weather. Ramblers will be very early ;
but, alas ! they have a usually cruel May to go
through, and I fear the result. These Roses,
however, have a wonderful power of recuperation
from the basal eyes of the lateral shoots. A year
or so ago, some plants of Blush Rambler were so

SOME OF THE NEWER HYBRID TEA
ROSES.

(Continued from page 82.)

Theresa (A. Dickson and Sons, 1909). — Semi-
double flowers of variable but beautiful colouring,,
orange apricot, with carmine splashes on the out-
side of the petals, passing to flesh pink. Excellent
habit of growth and free-flowering, fragrant and
a pretty decorative variety.

Verna MacKay (A. Dickson and Sons, 1912). — A
bright lemon-coloured flower, reminiscent of the
beautiful garden variety sent out in 1911 called
Carine. It may be a sport from that variety,
but it is a very beautiful Rose that has only one
fault, and that is it is not quite free from mildew-
Free-Howering ; medium-sized flowers of excellent
shape, sweetlv perfumed.

Viscount Carlo* (A. Dickson and Sons, 1910). —
An excellent bedding Rose, very free-flowering ;
colour, a bright pink on a cream ground. Distinct
bronzy foliage and excellent habit of growth.

Viscountess Enfield (Pemet-Ducher,
1910). — A beautiful button-hole Rose
of distinct colouring, coppery rose,
with yellow shading. Not too good a
grower with me, but it may improve in
this respect, as I believe my plants
were grafted.

Walter Speed (A. Dickson and Sons.
1909). — This can be best described as
a yellow-tinted Antoine Rivoire, with
all the good pomts of that fine old
variety. It is, if anything, better
shaped, and will, no doubt, find its way
occasionally on to the exhibition bench ;
but it is a good garden Rose, though we
have so many of these whitish Roses,,
tinted yellow, that very many of them
will fall out of cultivation. Walter
Speed is, however, one of the best of
them all, and when better known will
become popular. Next week I will con-
clude these notes with particulars of ai
few of the newer decorative Tea Roses-
Southampton. H. E. Molyneux.

THE GREENHOUSE.

NOTES ON CHRYSANTHE-

E

A NEW AND DISTINCT POLYPODIUM FOR THE GREENHOUSE. See pai/e 03.)

pruning in Ihis exceptionally early season. They
are wondering whether, instead of waiting till the
usual time of the second week in March for the
hardier sorts and early .'\pril for the Teas, they
should start almost at once, seeing that growth is
so wonderfully forward. In some cases I have
even seen bloom-buds forming on the new shoots.
Now, my advice would be to defer pruning until
the usual time, for this reasor : If we prune now
or at the end of February, or even early in March,
our plants are sure to start into growth almost
at once if present conditions prevail. And therein
would be the risk, because April frosts would almost
certainly cripple the growths that should, under
normal conditions, give us our best blooms. In

forward when a frost came that the> seemed a^
though they had been singed ; yet I did not
cut the young growths away, but allowed them
to develop, and the plants flowered as though
nothing had happened. The advice now given is
that Roses should not be pruned earlier than usual
in this forward season. When pruning is done, it
must be mostly to dormant eyes, except in the
case of decorative Roses. These may have a
growth or two left much longer, and although
it may be advisable to cut this growth away
later on when others are developed, it serves
the good purpose of slightly retarding lower
eyes and also preventing a too severe " bleeding "
of the sap. Danecroft.

MUMS.

VEN since the first batch of
cuttings was put in, the
weather has been favour-
able for them, except in
the matter of damping in
cases where amateur culti-
vators have been obliged to rely on cold
houses or frames in which to carry out propagation.
From this cause, and in the circumstances referred
to, some loss has been sustained. The newly-rootedl
cuttings have, however, grown very nicely mdeed,
as there has been no frost severe enough to
check them. Such frost, however, may be ex-
perienced, and, if so, growers must duly protect
their plants, as the young stems are rather
tender.

The Potting of the Rooted Cuttings.— it is
not wise on the part of the cultivator to allow the
newly-rooted cuttings to remain too long in the
small pots. Time is precious, and it soon passes ;
and if the young plants are not closely watched
and potted on when they need more rooting space

February 22. 1913.]

THE GAEDEN.

93

and fresh nourishment, they quickly lose ground,
as it were. A light, sandy compost is the best
for the plants generally. Some rotted manure
should be mixed with equal quantities of fibrous
loam and leaf-soil, at the rate of one peck to five
pecks of the combined parts. At this potting,
too, a 3j-inch potful of bone-meal may be added
to a bushel of the prepared compost, but no
concentrated manures, because the roots to each
plant are not very numerons. Avoid firm potting,
too ; simply press down the soil gently with the
fingers and keep the roots near the surface, removing
any of the loose cutting soil from the top.

A Good Position for the Plants.— When first

repotted, place the plants fairly close together on
a stage, or in a frame in the Southern Counties, for
a week or so, and during that time avoid
watering the soil unless it gets rather
dry, as, if it is fairly moist when used,
two or three light syringings wUl be
sufficient and the roots will permeate
the new compost more freely. Then
water through a fine-rosed watering-can
and spread out the plants so as to
admit air among them freely. Thev
should be placed close to the roof
glass if in a greenhouse, and on a bed oi
ashes if in a frame.
Ventilation and Mildew.— After the

work of repotting has been done, do not
admit air to the plants for several days,
and afterwards apply it in such a way
as to avoid cold currents of air blowinp
directly on them. They must be well
ventilated, as fresh air in mild weather
is very essential : but cold draughts
cause the spread of mildew and check
free growth. Any plants affected by
mildew must be dealt witl- quickly, else
many leaves will be lost. Flowers ot
sidphur dusted on the parts will be
found a good and simple remedy.
Propagation in Spring. — Plants that

are to be grown with single stems and
to bear one bloom only are best raised
from cuttings inserted from Febru-
ary 20 to April 20. The early varieties
must be propagated in April, and the
naturally late-flowering ones at the end
of February and during March. Some
cultivators insert several cuttings in a
large pot or bo.\, but beginners should
insert one cutting in a small, deep pot ;
then, when sufficiently rooted, repot at
once and there will be no check. It
is very important that the late-rooted
plants be grown on steadily, and not
forced in a high temperature. The
cuttings root quickly at this season, so that a stock
of young plants is soon secured. Avon.

THE

SOME

FLOWER GARDEN.

GOOD ANNUAL FLOWERS
FOR EDGINGS.

N The Garden for January 4 there was an
article on the use of annuals for edgings to
the kitchen garden paths, with an illustra-
tion of a path bordered by white Candytuft.
In addition to the kitchen garden, there
are the more ornamental parts of the
garden where the paths might well be edged, at
very little expense, with annual flowers, particu-
larly those of a low-growing character. The accom-
panying illustration shows an edging of Alyssum
Webb's White Carpet, that made an attractive

I

edgings, among them being Leptosiphon hybridus,
(a little gem that likes a sunny place). Mignonette,
Virginian Stock, Viscaria cardinalis. Erysimum
perofskianum, Nemophila insignis (should not be
sown where cats are troublesome), Phacelia campanu-
laria, Saponaria calabrica, Silene pendula compacta,
dwarf Godetias, and Sanvitaha procumbens Little
Gem. H. H.

A BROAD EDGING OF ALYSSUM WHITE CARPET,

ANNUAL THAT MAY BE SOWN OUTDOORS IN SPR

feature in the garden for nearly four months last
year for the initial outlay of sixpence, the cost of
the seed. The border at the back of this edging
was filled with Horace Martin Chrysanthemums,
and when these were in bloom during the early
autumn the effect was most pleasing. It will be
noted that the edging of Alyssum is a broad one.
This is important. A narrow edging, if of any
considerable length, looks puny and out of
place.

The chief merits of these annual flowers are

A NEW FERN.

(POLYPODIUM IRIOIDES PENDULUM GRANDICEPS.)

The new Fern illustrated on page <j2, and having
the misfortune to bear the above name, was referred
to in our issue of February 15, page 87, under " New
and Rare Plants." It is very distinct in appear-
ance, with forked fronds of leathery texture, which
are more suggestive of the Stag's-horn Fern or
Platycerium rather than a Polypodium. The fronds | their easy ctdtivation. effectiveness and cheapness,
are of a deep rich olive green colour, and inclined It is only necessary to sow the seed thinly in early
to be of pendent habit. Old specimens are said ! April, subsequently thin the seedlings, and keep
to make beautiful basket plants, producing trailing 1 those that remain free from weeds. In addition
fronds a yard in length. The plant was intro- 1 to the Alyssum and Candytuft already referred
duced from a garden in Queensland. I to, there are a i\umber of annuals suitable for

LILIES: A CAUSERIE.

[Continued from page 84. 1

LiLiuM Henrvi is still high-priced, but well worth
5s. for a good bulb. It has such a fine effect in
the border, and is very amiable in most gardens.
I have been told that its native home is a ledge on
a cliff face, and most frequently there
is but little depth of soil for its bed,
so that, growing wild, it has never been
seen exceeding 4 feet in height, and its
arching habit well fits it to hang out
over the precipices. I have sometimes
seen it in gardens, staked stiffly upright,
and then all its grace is gone. I would
as soon see Solomon's Seal staked to
stand up as does a Guardsman. There
is a photograph of a fine head of L.
Henryi in a recent American gardening
magazine that well illustrates this.
There must be nearly fifty flowers and
buds on that stem ; but it appears a
confused mass instead of the graceful
groupings of opened and unopened
flowers that may be seen on a stem
allowed to bend over to a horizontal
position in its own way. If shooting up
through thin shrubs, the lower portion
would be supported, but if among low
plants it is, perhaps, as well to stake the
lower 2 feet or 3 feet of the stem, doing
so before it has grown more than
three feet high, and cutting the top of
the stake off at about that height. L.
Henryi flowers throughout August, which
adds to its value, as it just precedes
L. tigriuum in time of flowering.

This last is, in fact, the latest-
flowering Lily that it is safe to trust in
the open ground in most British gardens,
that glorious, stately creature, L. sul-
phureum, being too precious to risk
outdoors save in Cornish, South Irish
and other singularly well-favoured gar-
dens. The Tiger Lily is too well known
to need description here. A large
planting of it is a fine sight when in
flower ; its warm but soft orange
ground colour is rare in gardens at
any season, and one of those I most enjoy. I had
a good effect this autumn from a bold group of its
fine and late-flowering variety splendens, growing
among white Phloxes and various shrubs with
silver variegation of leaf, among which Galtonia
candicans was scattered at irregular distances,
the whole backed by purple-leaved shrubs and
trees, such as Prunus Pissardii, Purple Hazel
and Barberry, Enonymus europsus, and that most
wonderful of all purple-leaved things, PaiU's
Purple Peach. How I hope they will all reproduce
the picture again and again ! But here L. tigrinum
wearies of my lime-charged soil in two or three
years. The variety named Fortunei is also very
good, and may be known by its grey, woolly stem
and earlier flowering. I do not care much for the
double-flowered form, for though its individual

HARDY
ING.

94

THE GARDEN.

[February 22, 1913

flowers last rather longer, they never make so fine
a display as those of the two varieties previously
named. For those with patience, a spare corner
and plenty of leaf-mould and good loam, it is easy
to raise a stock of the Tiger Lily from the bulbils
so freely produced in the axils of the leaves, and
which, if well treated, should flower in the third
or fourth year.

There remains but one group more that I can
rank in my second class of Fidos, the Orange Lilies
being the only other trustworthy canine-natured
settlers here. To reconcile the synonyms, sort
out the varieties, and group the subspecies around

even as Poppies often do in East Anglia, and it
was a pleasant thing to see a corps of Alpinisti
returning, after some mountain manoeuvres, to the
Barracks at Daone, a tired and travel-stained
company indeed, but many of them carrying
bunches of flowers, and especially of Orange
Lilies. I have never yet seen Mr. Thomas Atkins
returning from Aldershot with a bunch of Gentiana
Pneumonanthe. I wish a millionaire would let
me plant a sloping hay-meadow with all the varie-
ties of Orange Lilies his purse and the nurserymen
could provide, and let me go and stare at them
annually before they fell, whether before the

struggle to grow it, and I believe stiff soil on a
sunny bank of rockwork might make it happy.
Lilium Brownii has lived happily for some dozen
years in a peat bed, behind a Cactus bank, where
American Erythroaiums also flourish. The bank
shades the midday sun from its roots, and the
Lily's great flowers stand up into the sunlight.
It is exquisitely beautiful in shape and colouring ;
the brown outer surface of the trumpets reminds
me of some beautiful Japanese carving in ivory,
in which the natural brown outside of the tusk
has been left where required. I hope my
written praise will not affright it.

As the New Year is still so young,
surely it is in place to make some
good resolutions. I must make a
point of growing more Lilies from
seed, and I strongly advise all who
have followed me thus far in these
notes to be on the look-out for fresh,
ripe seed whenever available, and to
sow it at once. The charming group
of L. rubellum on page 95 shows
what has been done at Kew lately,
and what you and I ought to do.
Waliham Cross. E. A. Bowles.

A BED OF I.ILIUM BROWNII AT KEW, WITH A CARPETING OF IRISH HEATH.

a central head of the clan. In this group is a work
awaiting another Daniel to come to judgment and
a Solomon with a knowledge of everything from
" the Hyssop on the wall to the Bishop on the
bench," and perhaps then we should still need a
special enquiry under a stipendiary magistrate to
tell us whether or no we might believe the evidence
in an ordinary sense or only in a police-court one.
Anyway, I shall not attempt it. I find such
divergence ot opinion among the highest authori-
ties, Nyman, I'Abbe Coste, Baker, &c., as to where
L. bulbiferum ends and croceum or daviuricum begins
in wild or cultivated forms that I just grow what
I can get of any of them. I used to believe bulbiferum
invariably grew bulbils, and thereby was easily
distinguished from the others ; but whenever I
have come across the glowing Fire Lily growing
wild, never a bulbil has it given me to carry away
and grow. I have seen it on rocky ledges, single-
flowered and only inches high, on the Gothard,
a glorious splash of colour against the grey rocks.
Once, above a damp ravine, the Lilies made lines
of fire along the ledges, and, below, Saxifraga
Cotyledon shot out ostrich feathers of brilliant
whiteness. But I think i{ pleased me even more
when its flowers floated above the Meadow-grasses,
Campanulas and Salvi.is of Tyrolean hayfields,

mower or the wind. Failing hay-meadows, they
look well enough in an ordinary sunry border,
and umbellatum, whether it be right to call it
a davuricum, bulbiferum or a hybrid from elegans,
is one of the best for most purposes. The croceum
of cottage gardens is a great favourite of mine, as
its colour is so good and true an orange.

Of my third class — the hoity-toity beauties,
I feel, may be offended at any moment — I should
like to speak in whispers, or have this paragraph
set in the smallest type, lest I scare them. L.
chalcedonicum, the glorious scarlet Martagon, is one.
Now and then it has appeared quite happy here,
and sent up tall stems furnished so neatly and over-
lappingly with the white-edged leaves so distinc-
tive of its identity that I have believed all was
well ; then for a season or two inch-high stems and
blind buds. I think it loves a stiff soil, its feet in
a cold poultice in summer, but its head in a furnace ;
for I have known it to thrive marvellously in the
clay soil of Cheltenham, and here it seems to suffer
most after hot summers. It comes from Greece,
so should love heat, and is said to stand drought ;
but I have often l<nown candidum to flourish well
on stiff clay if not planted deeply, and especially
if in sloping ground. The pure scarlet of chalce-
donicum's flowers is so glorious that it is worth a

DAFFODIL NOTES.
Early Flowers in Pots. — As

the bulbs I force are an omnium
gatherum from many sources, I
may, I think, take my own experi-
ence as a sample of that of others.
.'Ml the same, I hope it is not, for my
flowers so far (February 13) have
not been as large or as even as
usual, and in some cases the foliage
has been more or less distorted.
Curiously enough, Dutch bulbs have
been more satisfactory than British-
grown ones, which is not the case as
a rule. As bearing upon this I had
a certain variety grown in igir-r2 in
five different parts of the British
Isles, and also in Holland. 1 potted
last autumn a sample from each
place, six in all. Up to two days ago
these lived in a cold shed, and after-
wards in a cold frame, so they have not been forced.
At the time of writing, the Dutch-grown ones are
the picture of health, while the others all look
rather yellowish, and those from the warmest
district the worst of all. Each one was potted on
the same day and in the same mixture of soil, and
all along each has had precisely the same treatment.
This is a puzzler. My man and I have talked it
over and talked it over, but we have got no
" forrarder." .All I can say is that it seems to have
some bearing on our experience with the other
bulbs. Perhaps some reader can throw some
light on this.

Orphee and Fairy Queen in Pots.— My good
opinion of these for pot work at the end of January
has been confirmed. For a bit of red colour at
this early period of the year I know nothing better
than Orphee. It beats Barri conspicuus into
"a cocked hat." I always think the merits cf
this grand old border variety as a pot plant are
greatly overrated. The two have been in flower
for the last week in my greenhouse, and you might
as well compare the veriest daub to one of Mr.
Hayward's exquisite flower paintings as old Barri
in a pot to its less-known and more-than-rival
Orphee growing in the same receptacle. The
well-defined red edge oi the cup always shows up

February 22, iqi3.]

iJiJi UxUCUEJN.

95

•so well, and the pale primrose perianth keeps
quite stiff and never flops. Both stem and leaves
i are good. The shapely little Leedsii Fairy Queen
also lends itself to this unnatural treatment. It
comes so easily, it is so florifcrous, and it is of such
an exquisite shape that, even without its nice
spicy perfume, it would be a variety to be highly
recommended for this purpose.

Cultivation in the Open. — ^This is such an

abnormal season that a word as to the benefits
of the constant stirring of the surface of Daffodil
beds and clumps may be given now. Two important
factors in Daffodil cultivation are deep digging
before planting to promote, among other things,
good drainage and warmth, and in the spring,
when the little noses begin to peep abos'e the
ground, the constant loosening of the surface to
give the plants air. This latter operation is best
performed bv the use of an appropriate-sized
•' Buco " cultivator. It is altogether a more
satisfactory tool than the old hoe. It does the
same work, but much quicker and more thoroughly.
Helxine Solierolii. — The possibilities of using
this as a carpet plant for bulbs in pots struck me
last autumn, and I tried the experiment on a small
scale. I have now a small pan of W. P Milner
and another of Winter Cheer Hyacinth with thi-
soil nicely covered all over and the
bulbs just about to flower. The
efiect is excellent. My procedure
was as follows : I put small cuttings
of Helxine all over the pans in Sep-
tember, and when these were getting
hold, I put in the bulbs. They have
been in a frost-proof frame with
practically no heat ever since. This
plant strikes so easily that there is
no difficulty in having a sufficient
stock always at hand to carpet a
goodly number of pots or pans.

Packing Flowers to Take to

Show. — 1 have been asked by one
or two correspondents to give a few
wrinkles on how to pack for show.

j I have had a photograph taken ' of

I a partly-filled box, and, as it has

' turned out a pretty good one. I
hope to use it next week to illustrate
an article on this subject. Getting

' one's blooms to the show in the best

' condition possible is one of the essen-
tials of success. Joseph Jacob

active, that oxygen gas was absorbed, and that
much carbonic acid was generated. -A^s ripening
advanced, the acid was gradually changed to sugar,
as was also any starch that happened to be present
in the fruit. He also stated that the tannin
which imparts the bitter taste to the unripe fruit
was destroyed by oxidation. Furthermore, it
was discovered that tliese changes would only
take place within certain limits as to temperature.
Fruits containing malic acid required only a com-
paratively low temperature, hence the perfect
ripening of Apples in these latitudes ; while it
explains also why Apples, if botanically ripe
(that is, the seeds matured) but the flesh still sour,
will ripen after harvesting.

Tartaric acid fruits require a medium tempera-
ture, hence the necessity of allowing Grapes to
ripen in this country on the Vines. Citric acid
fruits require a still higher temperature, as all
gardeners know who attempt the cultivation of
Oranges. But the changes that take place in fruit
do not stop at the " ripening " stage. Fermenta-
tion follows and the sugar is changed into alcohol,
volatile acids .and perfumes, to be succeeded, in
turn, by stUl further changes that gradually pass
into decomposition of all the softer tissue. These
latter changes also are influenced by temperature ;

Western States (California and Arizona) having a
climate apparently suitable for these popular and
profitable fruits. But it was found that while
they grow well and produce fruit, yet the conditions
are not favourable for the completion of the ripening
process. It is therefore necessary, if the projected
new industry is to succeed, that some method be
devised to ripen the fruit artificially. Mr. Swmgle
of the Scientific Staff of the Department of .Agri-
culture at Washington has charge of the experi-
ments. When the seed of the Date has re.iched
maturity, the flesh of the fruit is so bitter (due to
the presence of tannin) that it is quite uneatable,
and the problem is how to artificially alter thu
tannin so that it will lose its .astringency. Accord-
ing to Swingle, there are two essential factors
influencing the change — heat and moisture. In
Arizona the autumns are warm enough, but the
air is too dry ; therefore the experiment has been
made to harvest the botanically ripe but still
bitter fruits and subject them to a moist heat
of 43° to 49° Cent., when ripening takes place
within twenty-four hours. The tannin collects
in a layer of large cells close to the skin, and under-
goes a change in character that destroys its astrin-
gent property. (This tannin layer 'may be seen
as a dark ring on cutting a Date fruit in half.)

SCIENCE
IN HORTICULTURE.

THE RIPENING OF FRUIT.

Natural Ripening. — .A knowledge
of the essential conditions regu-
lating the ripening of fruit, and
especially of soft fruit, is of peculiar interest to
gardeners. Everyone is quite familiar with the
change that takes place whereby a sour .Apple
gradually changes its character and becomes sweet,
and also how a green, hard, bitter Date fruit
gradually loses its astrmgency and becomes mellow
and pleasing to the taste.

With regard to this subject, Gerber some years
ago conducted researches with three types of
fruit, namely, those containing (i) malic acid, as
in the .Apple ; (2) tartaric acid, as in the Grape ; and
(3) citric acid, as in the Orange. He showed that
during the ripening changes respiration was ver}-

THIS GROUP OF LILIU.M RUBELLUM WAS RAISED AT KEW FROM SEEDS.

hence the use of cold storage as a means of arresting
such after-maturation results. .According to a
recently-published Hungarian report on fruit
storage, the temperature most favourable for the
good preservation of .Apples is from 2° to 3° Cent.,
that is, 2° to 3° above freezing temperature.

ArtiGcial Ripening. — Most interesting and
instructive experiments in the artificial ripening
of Date fruit are at present in progress in the United
States. The results obtained so far are very
suggestive, and British fruit-growers would do well
to keep in touch with the work. Algerian Dates
have been introduced to cultivation into certain

But perhaps the most interesting experiments
relating to the artificial ripenmg of bitter fruits
are those carried on by Professor Lloyd of the
McGill University. By a series of observations,
experiments and inferences, and guided by the
previous experience of Gore of the United States
Department of .Agriculture, this worker was led
to believe that the cause of the tannin change was
not directly due to oxidation, but to the presence
of carbonic acid gas produced by oxidation. In
order to test this theory, he constructed a metal
vessel in which the unripe fruits could be placed
and subjected to the influence of an atmosphere

96

THE GARDEN.

[February 22, 1913-

of pure carbonic acid gas under any desired pressure.
With this apparatus and at 151b. pressure the
fruits lost their bitterness in about thirty-six hours,
while at a 451b. pressure the ripening change was
effected in about fifteen hours. This method has
the advantage of great simplicity and cheapness.
Firm, unripe, bitter fruits, such as Dates or Per-
simmons, can be sent long distances to market,
and made ripe and ready for immediate sale and
use within fifteen hours of delivery, or, in case of
a glut, kept in cold storage until the state of the
market justifies their immediate ripening.

David Houston.
Royal Cohere of Science for lyilniul.

TREES

THE

AND

SHRUBS.

TO GROW

DAPHNES AND HOW
THEM.

Daphnes are an extremely ornamental genus of
plants, esteemed both for their beauty and the
delicato fragrance of their flowers. A large number

D. oleoides is a plant of many synonyms ; D.
fioniana. D. coUina and D. ncapolitana arc identical
with this. It forms a neat, rounded bush some
2 feet to 3 feet high, producing rose purple
flowers in small clusters at the extremities
of the branches. It makes an attractive shrub
for the rock garden, but is not so showy as some
others.

D. I.aureola and its variety I'hilippii and
D. pontica arc stout, evergreen shrubs that succeed
admirably vmder the shade of other trees, including
Beech ; they also grow freely in almost any kind
of soil. While those already described arc all
indigenous to Europe, D. Genkwa comes from far
Rastern Japan, and is one of the most captivating
of this genus. Unfortunately, it is not quite hardy,
and is best grown against a low wall. The flowers,
as in our common Mezereon, are borne on the
naked branches in advance of the leaves. Indi-
vidually they are very large, of a rich shade of
lilac and sweetly fragrant. It reaches a height of
2 feet to 3 feet, or rather taller when grown against
a warm wall

while the stems revel in sunshine. It forms dense
cushion-like masses of trailing stems some 9 inches
to 12 inches in height, the flowers being borne
in dense terminal heads. The buds are bright
crimson, but when fully open the tubular,
wax-like flowers are a glowing pink. It is
a subject one enjoys having easy access to
when in flower, and if a drift is arranged on the
rock garden about a y ird above the path,
each passer-by may freely 1 artake of its delicious
fragrance.

D. rupestris occupies a similar position among
the dwarf kinds as D. Genkwa holds among those
of taller growth. It is a diminutive species, of
slow growth, so that one rarely comes across a
large-sized specimen. It is most suggestive oi
D. Cneorum in the flowers, but these are larger
and even more waxy in texture. They are borne
in clusters, and the colour is a glistening pearly-
rose pink. In its native haunts D. rupestris
grows in fissures of limestone, in a soil that is
described as peaty loam, while on rock garcens
it appears to succeed best in a well-drained but

-STAND.\RD APPLE TREE CUT BACK READY
FOR GRAFTING.

-THE GRAFTS

INSERTED
RAFFIA.

AND TIED WITH

-THE GRAFTS COATED WITH CLAY TO ASSIST
THE UNION WITH THE TREE.

are among our hardiest shrubs, those of tall growth
being eminently adapted for grouping in shrub-
beries and woodlands, while the dwarf kinds form
a group of exquisitely beautiful rock plants. The
commonest and best-known species is D. Mc/.ereum,
wliose fragrant, reddish purple blossoms wreathe
the naked branches in January and February.
It attains a height of 3 feet to 4 feet, with erect
branches, at the nodes of which the clustered
flowers are borne. It succeeds best in a sunny
position, or with only partial shade, and grows
freely in ordinary garden soil. Its precocious
beauty and charming fragrance are best enjoyed
when it occupies a foremost position in the
shrubbery. Besides the type, there is a pink-
flowered form, also single and double white-flowered
varieties.

O. blagayana is a prcistrate species v\ith creamy
white, tubular flowers, arranged in dense heads
on the terminal points of the branches. The leaves
are evergreen and chiefly confined to the points,
around which they are arranged in the form of a
rosette. It rarely exceeds 6 inches in height,
spreading out in all directions. It soon forms a
rich carpet, succeeding best in a mixture of loam,
peat and sandstone chips in a partially shady posi-
tion, the scented flowers being in season during
March and April. D. blagayana and D. Cneorum
are two of the most select Daphnes, easy to procure
and not difficult to cultivate. The Garland
Flower, as the latter is called, is a native of the
great mountain ranges of Europe, and is eminently
adapted for the rock garden. The roots appear
to enjoy close contact with the cool rock surface,

cool site, planted in a compost of loam, peat and
stone chips, and with plenty of rough grit in the
soil. D. odora and its variety Mazelii are exceed-
ingly popular as greenhouse plants, as, unfortu-
nately, neither is hardy enough for outdoors,
except in very favoured districts. The flowers of
D. Mazelii are pinldsh white and borne on short
laterals, being in season from December till spring.
The flowers of D. odora are in clustered terminat
heads and appear in spring. D. odora and D.
Mazelii are slow in growth, and are usually grafted
on a commoner kind. They make pretty pot plants,
and are best grown in a mixture of peat, loam and
silver sand. The flowers arc so intensely fragrant
that a small plant is capable of filling a large room
with its odnur.

Coombe Court Gardens. Thomas Smith.

February 22, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

97

GRAFTING STANDARD APPLE TREES.

The art of grafting is old, dating back to very
remote times. It forms a very ready means of
propagating stock of many plants that are

4.-1 HI- ^AM1•: TREE, SHOWING THE HKi 1 "i t.ik's
THE GRAFTS.

slow on their own roots, and on this account
is valuable in the nursery. Apart from that,
it serves many other useful purposes. For
example, a strong stock may give vigour to an
otherwise weak-growing plant. On the other
hand, it may have a dwarfing effect, as exemplified
by the use of the Paradise stock for Apples and the
Quince for Pears. Again, many Pears are only
fertile when double grafted ; for example, a Pear
stock may be worked with, say, Beurre Clairgeau,
and the desired sort, such as Gansel's Bergamot,
grafted on that again.

Apart from the fact that stock and scion should
have some natural affinity, and should, of course,
be in a suitable state of growth — and in this respect
the stock should generally be in a mWe forward
state than the scion — the one great essential in
successful grafting is the fact that the cambium
layer, or inner bark of both stock and scion, should
coincide and come in contact with one another.
Of course, quick, clean workmanship is important
as in all branches of propagation.

The simplest and most generally practised forms
are whip, saddle and wedge grafting. In all three
forms the stock and scion should be as nearly as
possible of one size, so that their barks may coincide.
Whip and saddle grafting are largely practised for

working young fruit trees, also for Rhododendrons.

Cleft and crown or rind grafting are generally resorted

to when the stock is considerably larger than the
scion. The latter method is very
clearly illustrated on the opposite
page. As shown, the method is usually
applied to working stocks with large,
woody branches. In cleft-grafting the
ends of the stock are generallv split
with a chisel. The scion is then cut
wedge shape to fit the split stock.
As can readily be understood, this
method has many objectionable
features. The split wood is a fruitful
source of decay, as it seldom gets
properly covered with healing tissue.
Crown or Rind Grafting as illus-
trated is the best method for dealing
with large stocks, and is a very
quick method of replacing a poor
or otherwise unsuitable variety of
Apple or Pear, and for this purpose
is generally practised in fruit-
growing districts. The stock,
naturally, should be healthy and
fairlv young. In the case of Apples
in orchards it is best to work them
with strong-grow-
ing sorts, such as
Bramley's Seed-
ling or Newton
Wonder.

In preparing
such trees for
grafting, they
should be headed
down during
, ■ ' . January, leaving
the stumps long
enough to cut
back to fresh
wood when graft-

Kc-'U iH ui- ing. This may be
done any time
during the spring,

when the sap is running freely,

as it is essential that the bark

should part easUy from the

wood. The tree figured was

grafted about the middle of

April.

The scions required should be

selected during the winter, tied

up and securely labelled, when

they should be laid in at the

north side of a wall or hedge.

In such a position they remain in

a dormant state until required.

Grafting wax or clay will be

required to cover the union of

stock and scion and exclude

the air. The clay should be

well worked up with some soft

meadow-hay ; this binds the

whole together and prevents it

from cracking.

Everything being ready, the

scions should be stood in a

vessel of water to keep them

fresh. The stumps of the stock

should then be cut back the

required distance with a fine

priming-saw, afterwards paring them smooth with a
sharp knife. The scion should then be selected from
one of the shoots, cutting it some six inches long.
From 2 inches to 3 inches of its bottom end should
then be pared off in a slanting direction ; the prac-
tised hand will do it with one cut. A slit should
then be cut about the same length in the bark of the
stock in the desired position, raising the edges of
the bark with the haft of a budding-knife, when the
scion can readily be pushed into position and
secured with a string of matting, as is shown in
No. I, where the stock is shortened back ready for
grafting, with one scion shown in position.

No. 2 shows the same stock with all the scion&
inserted and tied in position, while No. 3 depicts the
operation of covering the points of union with
clay completed, during which operation a vessel
of water should be handy to dip the hands in,
else difficulty may be found in smoothing the clay
over. No. 4 shows the same tree some eight months
afterwards, where it will be seen that each graft
has united and also made considerable growth.
In this case the variety is Cox's Orange Pippin.
No. 5 shows a stock worked with Bramley's Seedling.
This example was grafted during the last week of
May, and shows the tree pruned after the second
season's growth. Until the scions unite with the
stock and commence to grow, the stock will persist
in throwing out shoots from latent buds. They
must be kept rubbed off as they appear. J. C.

5. A SIMILAR TREE TWO YEARS AFTER GRAFTING. NOTE THAT

PRUNING HAS BEEN DONE AND THAT A NUMBER OF FRUIT-
SPURS ARE FORMED.

98

rilE GAllDEN.

[February 22, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Pruning. — Specimen Hollies, Yews, Portugal
Laurels, also the more tender shrubs, may be
pruned without any fear of damage from frost.

Lawns. — These should be swept over as often
as may be necessary to remove worm-casts, using
the heavy roller on them whenever time permits,
a loose, spongy lawn being often badly mailced by
the mowing-machine during the summer.

Edgings. — It is usual to go over the edges of
the paths at least once a year to keep them in
good condition, and when there is a lot to do it
■should be taken in hand before the stress of work in
■other ways comes along.

The Flower Garden.
Gladioli. — These are almost indispensable, and
for an early show of bloom in the borders they
may be planted at once. Plant a few inches below
the surface in well-prepared ground, not stinting
a little manure for them, though this should not
be of too rank a nature. For cutting purposes
they may be planted in beds 4 feet or 5 feet wide,
and for a succession, beds may be planted every
three or four weeks till May. It is full early for
starting them in boxes for bedding-out purposes.

Plants Under Glass.

Stove Climbers. — Many of these will be now
breaking into growth, and such of them as have
been kept dry at the root to prevent too early
starting should now have a thorough soaking of
water, after giving them a top-dressing of suitable
soil with a little bone-meal or other manure added.
If in pots, some may need repotting, and this should
be done before they make much growth. Specimen
AUamandas, Steplianotis, Clerodendrons and Bou-
gainvilleas that may be wanted for a display later
on in the season niay be left in a cool house for
some little time yet if it is thought they are likely
to flower too early.

Potting Stove Plants. — This is about the best
time to go thro\igh the general batch of stove
plants, potting all such as require it, relegating any
old and unsightly phints to the rubbish-heap,
thus making more room for the younger and more
useful ones, which from now will be making rapid
growth.

Compost. — This should be of a fairly open
nature, and if it consists of two parts loam, one of
peat, one of leaf-soil and one of sand, with a little
old mortar rubble, wood-ashes and bone-meal added,
it will suit most stove subjects, including Ferns,
though where a quantity of Crotons are grown,
a little more holding compost should be prepared.
I find they colour and grow better imder rather
more generous treatment than that given to the
ordinary run of stove plants.

Chrysanthemums. — The early propagated varie-
ties that may have been rooted singly in small
pots should now be in fit condition for potting on.
Three-inch or 4-inch pots are the best, and, provid-
ing the plants are well rooted, good firm potting
should be practised. The stage or shelf in a cool
house is a good position for them after potting,
though a quite cold frame will suit them equally
well providing every care is given to watering,
airing and covering up at night in case of frost.

The Kitchen Garden.

Asparagus. — Beds that may have had the
surface soil removed in the autumn and probably a
dressing of manure given should now be covered
up again by cutting down the sides of the beds and
shovelling the soil from the alleys back on to the
surface of the beds. If a good dressing of well-
rotted manure, or even old Mushroom-manure
and leaves, can be put on before the soil, so much
the better, as it will secure a greater length of
head before the shoots push through the soil, and,
where people like blanched Asparagus, this will help
matters considerably.

French Beans in Pots. — Plants in bearing
should be top-dressed with good rich soil and
manure, or, if the size of the pots does not allow
of this, they must be kept well fed with manure-
water. Keep up the supply by sowing fresh batches
at short intervals.

Potatoes in Pots. — ^These, as they push through
the soil, must be given a good light position, as

attenuated top growth usually results in an in-
different crop.

Lettuce. — Plants raised from seed sown in the
autumn may now be transplanted, choosing a time
when the soil works well. A warm border is the
best to secure an early crop, and if a single row is
planted quite at the toot of a wall facing south
or south-west, it will make a material difference
to their earliness.

Fruits Under Glass.

Disbudding Vines. — Vines shut up early in
the vear and brought along steadily should now
be in a forward enough condition for the first dis-
budding. Commence by taking off the shoots
that are badly placed, and for the time being leave
two that are showing bunches to each spur. These
may be reduced to one when the size and shape of
the bunch can be better judged.

Ventilation.— Earlier houses will need con-
siderable attention as to air, the early morning
being the most critical time, and I very much
favour the system of giving a little before the
temperature rises very much, increasing it, of
course, in accordance with the weather conditions
prevailing, always closing up in time to take full
advantage of the sun-heat, which even at this
season is none too plentiful.

Orchard-House Plums and Apricots should

now be in full bloom, and on fine, warm days
artificial fertilising should be practised, unless a
hive of bees near by have found out the trees in
flower, when they will probably do all that is
necessary. Rather warmer conditions should now
prevail, but at present no real effort should be made
to push them along.

Hardy Fruit.

Cuttings of Bush Fruits. — To keep up a supply
of young trees it is a good practice to put in a batch
of cuttings every two or three years, and though
rather late, they may still be made and inserted.
Strong-growing shoots are the best, and I prefer
to put them in on a somewhat shady border.
Here they root readily, and if shifted to a more
open position next winter they will soon make good
pl.-mts. Thomas STEVENSO^J.

(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Carnations. — Where Carnations were potted up
and wintered in cold frames, they will now require
attention as regards watering, although it is still
advisable to keep them rather dry. The lights
should now be removed entirely in fine weather
prepaiatory to planting.

Hoeing. — As soon as the soil is in a satisfactory
condition. Wallflowers, Forget-me-nots and other
spring bedding plants above ground should have the
soil between the plants stirred with the Dutch hoe.

Tropaeolum speciosiun. — This lovely climber is
undoubtedly erratic, proving well-nigh indestruc-
tible in some cases, while in others no amount of
coaxing will induce it to do well. So far as ascer-
tained, however, the two essential conditions to
success seem to be a free root-run with a cool
bottom. When once it takes to a position, it
should be left severely alone. The present is a
good time to plant.

Wistaria chinensis. — ^There is a popular fallacy
that this beautiful twiner is comparatively tender.
I have had this plant under observation for over
forty years, and have again and again seen it
exposed to 25° of frost with impunitj'. For a
high wall it is an ideal plant, and those intending
to give it a trial should select a site for it now
and, after excavating a pit, fill it up with a barrow-
load of good turfy loam, with a view to planting a
week or two hence.

The Rock Garden.
Planting. — Young plants which were rooted in
autumn and wintered in frames should, if hardy, now
be planted if the weather conditions are favourable.
In the disposal of the various subjects their respec-
tive requirements as to soil and situation must be
kept clearlv in view. Where difficulty is ex-
perienced in finding room for real gems and it is
deemed inadvisable to extend the rockwork, do

not liesitate to sacrifice some of the coarser subjects,
as they can probably be accommodated in beds or
borders.

Plants Under Glass.

Liliums. — Where not already attended to, the
potting of Liliums should no longer be delayed.
Auratum and the varieties of lancifolium are
all worthy of a place. Only from larg?, well-
ripened bulbs can good results be obtained, and
the price should only be considered in relation to
quality. Peat is not essential, but a compost of
turfy loam, fibrous peat, dried cow-manure and
some clean sand is an ideal one. Always leave
sufficient room for top-dressing. Keep dry and
cool till the huilis rommence to grow.

Eucomis punctata. — This is a desirable bulbous
plant for a cool house ; moreover, it is very cheap.
Pot up into 6-inch or 7-inch pots, using a compost
of three parts turfy loam to one of dry cow-manure
and a dash of clean sand.

Forcing Plants. — Later batches of bulbs and
other forcing plants can now be brought on with
(Very little fire-heat, especially duruig the day.
Plants to be placed in rooms will stand longer in
condition if stood m a cool house for a few days
prior to being placed in the rooms. Many forced
plants will be of future service, and should be cared
for. Deutzias, Philadelphuses and several other
shrubs should, when they have done flowering, be
returned to heat to finish their growth.

Fruits Under Glass.

Figs. — Early Figs in pots will now require some
rise in the temperature. They will also need
an increase of moisture, both at the roots and in
the atmosphere. Later trees may now have a
night temperature of 55° and be syringed daily,
but they should be kept fairly dry at the root till
growth is active.

Tomatoes. — Autumn-sown plants will now have
their fruits well set. To facilitate the development
of the fruits, only a limited number should be
retained, and after the requisite number have set.
the leading shoot should be pinched and all laterals,
on their first appearance, be rubbed out. Feeding
may be commenced gradually.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Supports for Bushes. — (jooseberry and Currant
bushes often get out of position and heel oyer.
Where such a state of things exists, a sufficient
number of forked stakes about eighteen inches
in length should be prepared. The soil round the
stem of the bush to be operated on should then be
slackened with a fork, the bush placed in an erect
position, and supported by the forked stake placed
at an angle with one end pushed a little way into
the ground. .\ piece of canvas should be placed
in the fork to prevent friction.

The Vegetable Garden.

Rhubarb. — Growth will soon be active, and, as
manv things will claim attention soon, the Rhubarb
quarters should now be forked over. The principal
part of manuring the crop should have been
attended to in the autumn by the application of
a good top-dressing of farmyard manure. If this
was omitted, however, it should now be remedied.
In addition to this, a liberal dressing of soot should
be given prior to forking over the ground.

Celery. — A pinch of seed should now be sown in
a little heat for early use. White is superior to red,
and at this period white only should be used.
.After long experience I can heartily recommend
Wright's Grove White.

Spinach. — .Autumn-sown Spinach will now be
beginning to move, and will be benefited by a dress-
ing of nitrate of soda or fowl-manure. The Dutch
hoe should also be run between the lines to aerate
the soil. It is well to bear in mind in this con-
nection that dressings of nitrogenous subst.ances
are most beneficial in the early part of the season
before the temperature has risen sufficiently to
permit of the nitrification of the soil by natural
processes.

Stored Roots. — if mild weather prevails, stored
roots, such as Beet, Parsnips and Swedes, are apt
to show growth and, consequently, become stringy.
This is especially the case if a little sand or soil
has been mixed with them. If they are gone over,
decayed roots removed, and returned to their posi-
tion, growth will for a time be arrested.

• Ch.-vrles Comiout.

Broomfield Gardens, Dmidson's Main":. Midlothian.

FhBKUARY 22, IQI3.]

THE GARDEN.

99

CULTURAL HINTS ON NEW
AND RARE PLANTS.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

{Conlinued from page 87.)

Rhododendron lutescens, a yellow-flowered

species, giuwiiig to a height of 8 feet or 10 feet in
China, succeeds in this country in a rather sheltered
position in cool and moist soil free from lime.
The necessity for placing it in a position sheltered
from the eaily morning sun is noticeable in spring,
(or it stiirts into growth rather early and the
young shoots are liable to injury by frost, especially
if bright sun strikes them before the frost has
disappeared.

Rubus biilorus quinqueflorus is a strong-
growing Bramble suitable for the wUd garden.
Its chief attraction lies in its \agorous stems,
which are covered with a white or glaucous bloom.
The best results are obtained by planting in rich
loamy soil, and by removing the old shoots each
year when the young ones are i foot or 2 feet high.
Increase by seeds or by bending the points of the
branches over to the ground and covering them
with soil, when roots and young shoots will be
formed.

Ilex Pernyi. — This new Chinese Holly gives
promise nf becoming an exceptionally good tree
for planting as a specimen evergreen, while when
common enough it will doubtless make a good
hedge plant. Planted in well-drained ground of
a loamy character it makes rapid progress, growing
iiito a shapely specimen with little or no priming.
Cuttings inserted in sandy soil in a close frame
during July root as easUy as those of the common
Holly, while it may also be grown from seed. It
is quite hardy.

Csesalpinia Gilliesii is one of the few South
.■American woody plants that may be grown out
of doors in the warmer parts of this country. A
very rare plant, its interest centres in its delicately-
divided pinnate leaves and large inflorescences of
golden flowers with bunches of bright red stamens.
It should be given a position against a warm wall
with a south or south-west aspect, and other
necessaries are well-drained loamy soil and pro-
tection for the base of the trunk in the event of
Irost.

Picea breweriana. — This Californian Spruce is
certainly one of the rarest trees under cultivation,
not only in this but in other countries. Fotmd in
inaccessible parts of the Siskiyon Mountains, it
has only appeared in our gardens within the last
fifteen years. A specimen about four and a-half
feet high may be seen near the Pagoda at Kew,
growing amid Ericas and other shrubs where the
soil is sand with a little peat. The healthy appear-
ance of the plant points to those conditions being
suitable for its growth.

Sopbora viciifolia, though introduced less than
twenty years ago, has made many friends by
reason of its pretty white, violet-tinted flowers,
which appear in profusion during late May and
June. At home in light, loamy soil, it succeeds
admirably in an exposed position on the lf.wn,
as a wall plant, or in a shrubbery. Cuttings
inserted in pots of sandy soil in July root well,
while it is easily raised from seed. As it dislikes
root disturbance, the plants should be placed m
permanent situatious while small.
{To be contimied.)

HOW TO GROW HOLLY-
HOCKS.

THERE are many who are deterred from
growing these grand plants by the
prevalence of the disease, or, more
properly, the fungoid pest, that is
likely to infest them, the same pest
attacking more or less all the members
of the Mallow family, of which the Hollyhocks are
the most important of the garden representatives.
But one may say that Hollyhocks are indispensable
in the late summer and autumn, and they cannot
be let go Ughtl>. In strong soils they are nearly
always healthy, a plant lasting for several years,
throwing up several grand spikes and being well
clothed with foliage to the ground. The difficulty
arises in the lighter soils, for the Hollyhock is what
gardeners call a gross feeder, rejoicing in a soil
either of loam or lime, in any case rich and deep
and also well manured. There can hardly be a
place whose conditions are worse for Hollyhocks
than the present wTiter's garden — on a sandy
upland, which naturally produces only Heath and
Gorse. Here all flower-borders have to be arti-
ficially made ; but where Hollyhocks are to grow
it is made deeper still, the sand taken out to a
depth of 3 feet and the place filled with the best
stuff wc can get together, with the ashes of the
fire-heap plentifully admixed and some good manure
from I foot to 18 inches down. It is true that the
plants always lose their lower leaves and are not
free from the disease (Puccinia malvacea) ; but
as they are necessarily near the back of the border,
it is a simple matter to make sure that some group
of plants, of close habit or strong foliage, shall be
just in front. The well-fed Hollyhocks will send
up fine spikes and the defect of bareness of the
lower stem will not be apparent. The flowers
will be so good that their absence would be a
grievous loss to the garden, although they must
not be expected to be so vigorous as they would be
on a soil of a stronger nature. The pest can be
kept in check, though not absolutely abolished,
by frequent syringing with a weak solution of
permanganate of potash as soon as the leaves have
made some growth, or with any of the anti-fungoid
preparations.

For flowering the same year, Hollyhock seed may
be sown in heat as early as the first days ct January ;
but it may be sowii a month or six weeks later if the
plants are pushed on as quickly as may be. There
is a good deal in getting a strain of seed that will
give the right-shaped flower. The florists' Hollyhock,
so fully double that the whole flower is the same
rounded shape all over and is equally tightly
packed with crowded petals, is not the best for
the garden ; in fact, instead of being a beautiful
flower it is rather an ugly thing. The best kind
has a distinct guard petal or outer petticoat, and
the rising centre is only moderately filled. In this
case the colour also is much enhanced by the play
and transmitted glow of light and tint withm and
between the inner petals. All this is lo'^t in the
round, tight flower, where the light can only play
upon the outer surface.

There is much beauty of tender colouring among
some of the single Hollyhocks, but of these the
ones that are easiest to grow and are the most
generally useful are the varieties of Althsa ficifolia,
the Fig-like shape of the leaf accounting for the
specific name. The best are those of sulphm and
white colourings, which should be secured if possible,
or there wU! probably be a preponderance of

flowers of a poor, washy, purplish pink. But if
mixed seed is sown, some wil' be sure to be yellow
and white, and seed for further use can be kept
from these. G. Jekvll.

ACETYLENE GAS GENERATOR
REFUSE FOR GARDEN CROPS.

[In Answer to Several Correspondents.]

THE question of the usefulness or other-
wise in gardens of the refuse from
the acetylene generator plants is very
frequently raised, and, in response
to numerous requests from readers,
we give the following particulars
which we published several years ago. Calcium,
carbide is made by causing lime and carbon to
combine together in an electric furnace, so that a
compoimd having the chemical formula CaC2
is formed. When water is brought into contact
with this substance, certain chemical reactions
immediately take place, with the result that
acetylene gas is generated and a white substance
remains mixed and partly dissolved in water.
This is shown by the following chemical equation .

CaC2 + 2 H2O = C2H2 -I- Ca(0H)2
(Calcium carbide.) (Water-) (Acetylene.) (Slaked lime.)

The white substance is slaked lime, and if it were
not for the presence of some impurities, derived
mostly from the form of carbon used in the manu-
facture of the carbide (that have, of course, been
ignored in the equation), this slaked lime would
not differ in the least from that obtained when
fresh burnt lime is slaked with water.

On account of the presence of some impurities
in the carbide, however, the refuse is likely to
contain certain compounds of sulphur and lime
(sulphides), and occasionally some phosphide of
lime, a compound of phosphorus and lime. Both
of these compounds are injurious to plant-life,
but the latter is not likely to be present in sufficient
quantities to do any appreciable damage, and the
former soon alter in composition in the soil and
become innocuous. Thus the refuse may be used
with advantage upon soils, though it should first
be exposed to the action of the air for a time before
it is allowed to come in contact with roots. It
may be spread on the soil in the autumn at the rate
of about half a bushel to the square rod, as evenly
as possible, and allowed to lie for a time before it
is forked in. Used in this way it will have the same
beneficial effects upon the soil as a dressing ol
slaked lime applied in the same way, counteracting
sourness of the soil and mitigating the evils arising
therefrom, and, in the case of clay soils, causing
the minute particles of clay to coagulate and there-
fore making the pores in the soil larger and the
soil itself easier to work, more open to the air and.
as a result, more easily warmed by the sun in the
spring. Scientist.

LILIES OF THE VALLEY.

Lifting and Replanting Old Crowns.

Lilies of the Valley are often planted in thf
borders and then left there untouched for many
years, with the result that the spikes of flowers
become fewer each year and hundreds of crown>
fail to flower at all. When growing in the wood?
in a natural state, these Lilies get an annual top-
dressing in the form of decaying leaves and other
matter ; but it is only a light covering, and not a
heavy one such as is often put on by the inex-
perienced- cultivator. I have seen plants ruined

100

THE GARDEN.

[February 22, 1913.

through injudicious surface mulching. It is not
a wise plan to disturb the plants too often. When
well planted in good soil, they will continue to grow
strongly and flower freely for a number of years.
I have grown half an acre of Lilies of the VaUey
in various parts of a garden where the soil also
varied, some being light and a portion clayey,
and always found the crowns to do well when not
overcrowded. The overcrowding is often caused
by the great number of small crowns being mixed
with the large ones. An unprofitable bed should
be dug up, the crowns of the plants assorted and
replanted in deeply-dug soil made moderately firm.
This work may be done at once. Directly
all the leaves can be cleared away without
forcible pulling, lift the crowns and at once pick
out the strongest, keeping both roots and crowns
moist. There is nothing better for this purpose
than damp sand, as it also excludes air.

Only trim off any bruised roots, and replant
the best crowns 9 inches apart in rows i foot
asunder. This is not too far apart to plant
where it is intended that the bed should remain
undisturbed for a number of years, as the
roots soon spread and the big leaves entirely
hide the soil. The weaker crowns should also
be planted, if the stock is limited, in another
border, allowing space in proportion between them.
In two years' time these secondary crowns will
have yielded strong ones, bearing big flowers
on stout stems. An annual top-dressing of sifted
leaf-soil is highly beneficial in the case of all the
beds. One often sees the roots actually bared
through the raking off of rubbish in the autumn,
and when no effort is made to cover them, the crowns
degenerate rapidly. Some cultivators believe that
Lilies of the Valley can only be successfully grown
in certain positions, but I have proved that they
mil succeed m any aspect if treated as suggested

abovpg

Avon.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

WOUNDS ON FRUIT TREES: THEIR
DANGER AND PREVENTION.

IN the social and political realm of life the
aged are apt to regard the past with feelings
of regret, and to talk and write of the
good old days. So those of us who have
had a considerable experience of fruit-
growing are inclined to look back and
regret the days that are past, when, at least so we
think, it was an easier task, and the difficulties that
we encountered were not so numerous nor so hard
to over;ome as they are now. In no direction is
this so striking as m the increasing virulence of
the fungi that attack the womids of trees. Despite
all that has been written and said durini; the
last twenty years concerning canker, the ravages
due to the fungus that causes it, Nectria ditissima,
are in no way abated ; while the last decade has
witnessed terrible strides made by that awful
scourge, silver-leaf disease, due to the fungus
Stereum purpureum. Since there is no doubt
at all that the latter invariably first obtains an
entrance into the tissues of the tree through a
wound, and, moreover, it is pretty well established
that the majority of cases of canker are started in
the same manner, it becomes a question of para-
mount importance, first, to reduce the chance of
wounds, accidental and otherwise, on a tree to a
minimum, and, secondly, to so protect such wounds
which may be made that the fungus spores may
not find an entrance therein.

In a strict scientific sense, a wound is any breaking
or abrasion of the surface tissue which is un-
protected by palisade cells, or callus. There are
many wounds which can be prevented, and as
things are at present, must be prevented if the
trees are to be kept in a healthy state. There
are the wounds too often, alas ! caused in staking
the trees soon after they have been planted. Too
many people allow the stake to project uito the
head of the tree, so that the boughs chafe on it
when moved about by the wind, and a wound soon
results. Then, again, even if the trees are properly
staked at first, they sometimes break or some-
thing else happens that the tree breaks loose ;
then, if it is not soon seen to, the inevitable result
is that it is dashed against the stake and injured.
In the case, too, where no staking is done at all,
after a little while the tree gets loose at the top
of the ground, and when a spell of frost comes
and makes the surface soil hard, the bark of the
tree is soon chafed sore in rubbing against it.
Again, in orchards or plantations where cultiva-
tion is done by horse labour, unless the ploughman
is specially cautioned against it, he will get too
close to the trees and allow either the horses'
harness or the draw-bar of his plough to break
the bark of the trees in many places. A further
fruitful source of wounds in trees, and wounds,
moreover, which are extremely slow to heal, is
the practice of shooting among them, either for
pleasure or in order to kill birds or vermin which
are causing damage. Wounds, too, are caused
in various ways when the fruit is on the trees,
either by allowing the branches to break owing to
lack of support when heavily loaded with ft-uit,
by carelessness in placing the picking ladders,
so that the greatest weight is put upon the tree
instead of on the foot of the ladder, or, when the
trees are large, by scrambling about in the branches
in boots shod with heavy nails.

So much for preventable wounds, but there are
others, those caused by pruning, which must of
necessity be made for the well-being of the tree.
The problem, therefore, is to provide the best
means of protecting these wounds, either naturally
or artificially. An examination of a wound of a
few months' standmg, say, where a bough has
been removed, will show that Nature is hard at
work trying to protect the wound, and that a
layer of new tissue is creeping over it from the bark
inwards in the effort to cover it up. No growth
at all takes place from the wood, only from the
inner bark ; consequently, if the wound is a large
one, it is a matter of considerable time, even
years, before the new tissue finally creeps all over
and the wound is entirely covered up. What we
require to do is, first, to make it as easy as possible
for the healing process which the tree itself carries
out ; and, secondly, so to protect the larger wounds
that no fungus spores may obtain an entrance
during the interval before the wound is finally
protected by new bark.

Good pruners have always insisted on any saw
cuts— that is, where branches have been removed
by a saw — being shaved with a knife all round
the bark and a small portion of the wood
adjoining, believing that the bark healed over
more quickly when this was done. Perhaps, as
with the old notions in connection with planting,
the people at Woburn will prove that all such
care is a waste of time ; but at present it will cer-
tainly be advisabb for all pruners to adopt the
practice, and, moreover, do their work as far as
possible with a good sharp knife, without having
recourse to secateurs or other mechanical aid.

since, after all, there is nothing which makes such a
clean cut as a good pruning-knile.

Protecting Wounds. — With regard to the pro-
tection of the wound, after considerable investi-
gation and some amount of trial I have come to
the conclusion that the course advised by Professor
Bailey in America is the best, viz., to paint the
wounds with either red or white lead paint. This
should be made with pure linseed oil free from
adulteration, and preferably without the addition
of turpentine. I have found that paint made thus
will set quite hard, and will not flake oS the wounds
when growth takes place during the following
summer. On one occasion I used red oxide paint,
mixed for painting ironwork, in mistake for the red
lead ; but no ill-results followed, and we found,
indeed, that this set harder than any of the others.
Stockholm tar can be used, but it is necessary to
see that it is pure, otherwise harmful results may
ensue ; but gas-tar should, in my opinion, never
on any account be used, even on the largest or
oldest trees. It is always a matter of uncertainty
how it will behave and whether it will cause injury,
and I cannot see any necessity for running the risk,
as one has excellent materials in the paints just
mentioned. For the last two or three years now
I have used such paints, with quite good results,
and have found that they have little or no retarding
effect upon the self-healing process of the tree,
the bark creeping over the wound much as if there
were no paint there. To sum up, avoid as far as
possible making any unnecessary wounds on
the trees ; in pruning make the cuts as clean as
possible, so as to assist the tree to heal them ;
and, lastly, protect all wounds from i inch in
diameter upwards with either white or red lead paint
as pure as possible, but without the admixture of
turpentine. F. H.mcmond.

TO

ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— 7V!C E,IUor intends In
make Thk (J.^iuien helpjul to all reatUrs irho desitr assist-
ance, 710 matter what the branch of 'jardeninij may be, and
vith that obiCCt will make a special Icatiire of the "Answers
to Con espondents " columns. All commutiicalions should be
clearly and concisely ivrUlen on one side of the paper only ,
and addressed to the Editor of The; Gardkn, 20, Tavistock
Street, Corent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. [Vhen more than one
query is sent, each should he on a separate piece of paper.
Plants lor naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not eotton-wuot, and floicering
shoots, where possible, should be setd. It is useless to send
smalt scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the I'Ubl.ISHEK,

FLOWER GARDEN.

TROPffiOLUM SPECIOSUM {J. £.). -Your better way
would be lo purcliase roots ,in(i jilant tlicm near a wall,
or in some north-western exposure wliere the plants
conld ramble amid Holly or like bushes. The plants
appear to prefer a sandy soil with much fine leaf-soil
iutorporated therewith, the whole beins made moderately
rich, (^over the roots nor deeper than 2 inches with tlic
soil The Hoshy roots now obtainable may be had very
cheap from most of the hardy plantsmen. Seedlings may
take two years and even longer before Howerins.

PLANTS FOR A LONG BORDER iConslanI Reader).—
Either of tlie followiu;; subiect- would do for your centre
bed between the two red Geraniums: Calceolaria Uolden
Gem white Geranium Queen of Denmark, or Marguerite
.Mrs F K Sander. The same Jlarguerite would do very
well for your window-boxes ; some of the most successful
window-boxes noted last year were composed principally
of that plant. Sweet Peas would be likely to thrive in
the tubs you mention, or you could plant climbing >astur-
tiums in them. It would not be wise to plant anything
between yonr rows of .\ntirrhinums and (..odetias, l>ut
von ini"lit plant white Stocks in front and a row of Fairy
ijucen IBegonifl if vou think there will be room.

^.■"-tgfe^

GARDEN.

No. 2154.— Vol. LXXVII.

March i, 1913.

CONTENTS.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

NdTKS OF THE WKKK
C'ORKESrONDKNCE

Peas (luriui; 1912 . .

Rose Uayuii d'Or . .

The multiplication
of Sweet Pea
names

Three aood Hyacinths

Sweet Peas as bed-
dine plants. .

Applying; inarxure-
water to Koscs in
February ..
Prizes for the Best

KocK Gardens . .
Crocus Kathleeu Parlow
Forthcoming events..
Rose G.irdkx

A simple garden
seat

Some of the newer
Roses

Fallacies reiiarding
Tea Roses . .

CREF.NHOnSF.

Greenhouse plants
irom seed
Flower Garden
A flower border of

erey and blue . .
Some hardy bulbs

for sprint; planting
t3orden> of annuals

and herbaceous

plants

CoLODRED Plate
Snapdragons and

their cultivation

its

108

103
109

107

107

110

111
112

Iris sibirica and

varieties
Raising Asters in cold

frames 108

The Heath Garden
How to make and
maintain it. . .. 109
Trees and Shrtbs
The Japanese Quinces 110
Some good winter
trees and shrubs
Kitchen Gaedfn
Garden Peas . .
Good Potatoes for
spring planting . .
Gardening for Beginners
How to yrow Toma-
toes undei glass. . 113
How to make and
plant a herbaceous

border 113

Propagation of the
Lemon - scented
Verbena . . . . 113
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 114

For Northern gar-
dens 114

A National Daffo-
dil SOCIETY . . .. 115
Rock and \V.\ter Garden
The fifty best alpines
for small gardens 115
Hot Water as an

Insecticide . . . . 116
Books 116

I LitiDBT RATIONS.

'J'Jie new white bedding Crocus Kathleen Parlow . .

A simple garden seat

A border of grey foliage and flowers in autumn

A mixed border at Gamons, Hereford

Snapdragons Coloured

Borders of annual flowers at Gamons, Hereford

A summer bed of mixed Candytuft

An effective grouping of Iris sibirica at Kew . .

A bed of mixed Comet Asters

Pea International, anew mainerop variety

A feood crop of Potato Royalty

flow to grow Tomatoes under glass

102

104
105
IDS
plate
107
108
109
110
111
112
113

BDITORIAIi NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible, for their safe return. All
reasonable care, howerer, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclose*!, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contribviions.

j As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price retjuired for reproduction be plainly stated.
; /( must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo.
\ urapher or owner of t'lc copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic

' or literary contributions u'hich he may not be able to use, and

the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an

I article is accepted. Publication in THE GARDEN will alone

I be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tucistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

Cucumbers from South Africa. — \n attempt
has recently been made to ship Cucumbers from
Cape Colony, the first consignment arriving at
Covent Garden Market early last week. These
were sent over with a shipment o£ fruits, but
when they reached the market were quite unfit
for use. Evidently different treatment to that
required by Cape fruits is needed if Cucumbers
are to reach us from there in good condition.

An Early Rhododendron. — The present winter
has been unusually favourable for the early-
iiowering Rhododendrons. In the Rhododendron
Dell at Kew there is a large bush, g feet in height,
of the variety George Cunningham, well clothed
with trusses of blooms. This variety is a fitting
companion for Noble's Rhododendron (R. noble-
anum), which also is flowering freely close by.
The variety George Cunningham was raised, many
years ago, in the nurseries of Messrs. Cunningham,
Fraser and Co., Comely Bank, Edinburgh. The
trusses of flowers are moderate in size ; the indi-
vidual blooms, rather closely arranged, are white,
liberally spotted or blotched with chocolate-
coloured markings.

Pruning Lilacs in London. — Those who have
visited the Victoria Embankment Gardens during
the last week or two have had an opportunity of
seeing how not to prune Lilacs. The thin, weedy-
looking shrubs that border the roadway are mostly
Lilacs, and just recently they have imdergone a
process of thinning that is quite remarkable in its
way, and entirely opposed to good gardening.
A few lessons in the pruning of shrubs of any kind
are sorely needed by those who have been doing
the work. Lilacs are, even if properly treated,
quite misuited for these gardens, and they should
long ago have been replaced by more suitable
shrubs. But as they still remain, it is difficult to
imderstand why they should be mutilated in this
way and made to look even more incongruous
than they were wont to do.

Sweet-Scented Annuals. — The note on the
Night-scented Stock which appeared last week
has brought requests from several readers for
tile names of other annuals that possess this
precious attribute in marked degree. In addition
to the well-known Mignonette and Ten-week
Stock, we have pleasant memories of the fragrance
of Nicotiana affinis, or Sweet-scented Tobacco,
Martynia fragrans (a rather tender plant). Sweet
Sultans, Woodruff, Indian and Japanese Pinks,
Schizopetalon Walked, Candytuft and, of course,
the ubiquitous Sweet Pea. An annual that is
not usually credited with fragrance is the common
Tropjeolum, or Nasturtium. Its perfume is not
at all pronounced, but a vase of flowers shut up
in a room for a few liours will emit a perfume that
is, in contrast to that of many flowers, quite
refreshing. How many of our readers have noticed
this?

Royal Agricultural Society's Horticultural

Exhibition. — The Royal Agricultural Society of
England is sending out a very attractive schedule
of prizes to be competed for in the horticultural
section of their annual show. This year the show
will be held at Bristol, the horticultural section
opening on July i and closing on July 4. Entries
should be sent to Mr. Peter Blair, Trentham
Gardens, Stoke-on-Trent, on or before May 31.

A Good Winter Green. — Although green food
has been plentiful this v/inter, thanks to the mild
weather, it is not alwa>'s so, and it may be useful
to draw attention to one variety that is in season
just now. This is Russian Kale, or Chou de
Russie. It is a hardy, elegant-looking plant,
the much-lacerated leaves having quite a unique
appearance. Seed should be ordered now for
sowing towards the end of April, the young plants
being transplanted to firm ground when large
enough. A bed of this Kale will give an abundance
of fresh, delicious young shoots at this season,
when there is usually a scarcity of most kinds.

Winners of Acrostic Prizes. — In the list of
prize-winners published on page 91 of last week's
issue, we regret that a mistake occurred. On
investigation we find that the Rev. J. E. Gardiner
of Eversden Rectory, Cambridge, who sent in
solutions under, the pseudonym of " Nemo,"
correctly solved Nos. r, 4, 6 and 7, and is therefore
entitled to share the first, second and third prizes
witli .Mrs. .Macalister and Mr. R. P. Brotherstou.
Under the circumstances we shall also divide an
amount equal to the third prize between the
other competitors whose names and addresses we
published last week.

Primulas at Clandon Park. — Passing through

this beautiful Surrey park quite recently, we
observed a little copse, in which Primula denticu-
lata and its improved form, cashmiriana, with rich
violet purple blooms, were flowering to perfection
A wooded dell on heavy soil, in which tree growth
is not too dense, is obviously an ideal home for
Primulas, and quite near to this spot may be seen
the wild Primrose growing naturally. The beauty
of the scene is all the more appreciated, as a public
footpath runs through the wood. Many other
Primulas are naturalised in the woodland at
Clandon Park, but Primula denticulata cashmiriana,
which is becoming more and more popular, is
worthy of special note.

The Pavilion at Kew Burned Down. — Readers
in all parts of the world, and Kew men in particular,
will learn with regret that the tea pavilion, which
stood near the Pagoda in the Royal Gardens, Kew,
was burned down in the early hours of February 20.
The pavilion was built about twenty-five years ago
and was of rustic appearance, so as to be as far
as possible in harmony with the sylvan surround-
ings. A card foimd near the conflagration was signed
" Two Voteless Women," and we understand
that two women are in custody charged with the
offence. Such wanton acts of mischief call for no
comment .

102

TllK GAiiUEN.

[March i 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is not rcspoiisibh: for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Rose General G. R. Home. — I cannot trace

this Rose in the growers' catalogues that I have
before me. I have been promised by a friend
some buds of this for budding next season, and
he tells me that he had two plants sent to him
along with others by a grower, whose name he has,
unfortunately, forgotten. I should be glad, there-
fore, if you or some of your readers could give me
information about it. From what I saw of the
plants, the Rose appears to be a strong grower. —
B. A. Bell, South Norwood. [We know of no
Rose bearing the above name. Perhaps some
reader will kindly let us know if such a variety is
in cultivation. — Ed.]
Diascia Barberae as a Perennial. — 1 constantly

see in various seedsmen's catalogues this plant
in the list of annuals ; but in this garden, which

Apple Lane's Prince Albert for Dessert. —

The reference to this variety in " Notes of the
Week," issue February 15, is very timely. I have
always had a strong liking for this Apple, it being
a grand all-roimd variety. At this time and as
late as the early part of May I used it as a dessert
variety, and it was greatly appreciated. In March
and April my fruits used to assume a deep yellow
tinge on one side, and while in that condition were
most acceptable for dessert. Amateurs should
always include a few bushes in their collections, but
they should not allow the trees to bear much fruit
mitil they are well established. Many specimens
are stunted through premature cropping. — G. G.
Hardiness of Campanula isophylla. — Whether

tliis plant is hardy or not is very much a question
of locality, though more particularly of the position
individual examples occupy. For instance, in
the drier conditions the wall garden affords, in the
deep-running crevices of the rock garden, or in
window-boxes — almost anywhere, indeed, where
it would be raised above the ordinarv level, and

THE NEW WHITE BEDDING CROCUS KATHLEEN PARLOW.

is in by no means^a speciallj' warm situation,
it has'proved itself a perennial, flowering abundantly
during the late summer and autumn from a seed
planted seven years ago. It increases from under-
groimd roots, and is now a patch 3 feet by 2 feet
6 inches, or thereabouts. The flowers are shaped
like a miniature spurred Aquilegia, and are of a
pretty shade of copper colour. — V. M., East Devon.
[Oiu' correspondent's experience of this pretty
South African plant is interesting and valuable,
proving that, given certain conditions, it is of
strictly perennial duration. Seven years is
surely ample time, and the development of the
plant to a patch 3 feet across is conclusive.
We trust the above letter wiU tempt others living
in favom-ed places to regard it as a perennial.
Generally, however, the plant has to be regarded
as an annual as a matter of convenience. Other
South African plants of our acquaintance do not
die as a result of flowering and seeding, but perish
because they cannot endure the cold and vicissitudes
of our English climate. — Ed.]

therefore well drained and warm — the plant may
be regarded as generally hardy, unless in very
severe winters. If, however, the plant is colonised
in the soil of the rock garden or grouped in the
border in the ordinary way, it will perish before
the winter is half gone, even around London.
At the same time, it should be stated that it is not
suitable for the border. The right place for a
plant with its mantling habit of growth is the
higher parts of the rock garden, where its free and
late flowering would render it imique. In a window-
box or hanging basket or pot much of the beauty
of the plant is revealed, but in so cultivating it
its value to the rock garden has been almost
entirely overlooked. For this latter purpose we
have nothing so good or so late flowering, and
plants which give such sheets of colour are worth
making much of. My hybrid Campanula Pro-
fusion has isophylla blood in its veins, and the
same conditions in wall or rock garden suit it
exactly. In garden soil it is not reliably hardy, and,
moreover, is not suited thereto.— =-E. H. Jenkins.

Lilium Brownii leucanthum.— The fine group

of this Lily shown on page 94 of the last issue is,
unfortunately, described as L. Brownii, omitting
the varietal name. The photograph was taken
at Kew in 1905 from a group of bulbs bought
in 1904 from Messrs. Veitch and Sons as L. Brownii
leucanthum. This is the Lily that Wilson describes
as L. Sargentias. It is a taller plant than the
typical L. Brownii and resembles L. sulphureum
somewhat, both in the yellow tint of the outside
of the flowers and in its habit of producing bulbils
in the axils of the leaves. — E. A. Bowles.

Serious Losses Among Roses. — I note in The
Garden of February 8, page 66, Mr. C. Blair's
remarks on Roses at Preston House Gardens and
the damage done by the frost in November of last
year. In the gardens here and the surroimding
district the majority of chmbers are killed to the
ground, while dwarf Roses, with the exception
of the Lyon, have suffered less. On a pergola
built of stone pillars and Oak beams some of
the varieties have escaped injury, viz., Leucht-
stern, Rubin, Felicity Perpftue, Bennett's
Seedling, while American Pillar, Gardenia,
Dorothy Perkins, Lady Gay and many others
are completely spoilt. — C. L. Cawkell. The
Gardens, Angerton, Morpeth, Northumberland.

Mysterious Disease of Hyacinths.— I was

greatly interested to see m The Garden of last
week Mr. J. Duncan Pearson's comment on the
mysterious disease of Hyacinths and Daffodils,
as it has revealed to us the cause of our Roman
Hyacinths failing this season. Out of our whole
batch none of them made any roots worth speaking
of, and those they did soon decayed. The bulbs
were potted up in September and plunged in ashes,
and on examining them in November were found
to have made about one inch of top growth, and
the roots which they had made were all decayed ;
yet the bulbs in themselves seemed quite good.
We were quite puzzled as to the cause, because
all our Narcissi and the named varieties of
Hyacinths have come through all right and have
bloomed splendidly. Naturally, we put it down
to bad bulbs, and drew the nurseryman's attention
to it. His remark was that his bulbs were just
the same, and he could not account for it.- —
F. C. Willie, Lindfield, Sussex.

Puya chilensis Flowering at Cambridge. —

This handsome Bromeliad, which lor some time
has been an attractive feature in an outside border
in front of the plant-houses at the Botanic Gardens,
Cambridge, and is said to be only equalled in the
Scilly Isles, is now coming into bloom. The spike
was first noticed on February 5, when it had forced
its way through the glass light which is placed over
it in the winter, being at that time 20 inches high,
and has since grown at the rate of about three
inches a week. It is 12 inches in circumference
10 inches from the tip, that being larger, and has-
every appearance of bearing a fine inflorescence,
probably fully developed about May or Jime.
The plant is 6| feet high and about seven and a-half
feet through, and has been growing outside now
ior some years, but, as previously mentioned,
covered with a glass light in the winter, while in
very severe weather mats are hung in front oi it.
The leaves are from 3 feet to 4 feet long, with hard,
hocked spines on the margin. Up till 1910 the
plant was one huge rosette ; then it commenced
to send out branches, which one would expect t&
come alter, not before, flowering, unless the spike
has been forming for some considerable time. —
F. G. Prest'.n.

Sitpplcmeiit to THE GARDEN, Man It \<.t, 1913

FOUR GOOD ANTIRRHINUMS.

Left; Bright Pink. Centre: top, Fire King; bottom, Orange King. Right: Rich Apricot.

''■■'"" * '>■"""'■ tM.. Prmters. Loudon, S.E.

(Sutton & Sons).

March i, 1913]

THE GARDEN.

103

Peas During 1912. — Although last year was
not a particularly good one, all^our culinary Peas
did admirably. Perhaps some readers of The
Garden may like to learn of our method of culti-
vation. We dig or trench the ground in winter
in the ordinary way after it has been well manured.
As the time for sowing approaches, we dig trenches
as for Celery and 8 feet apart, and dig in a good
lot of farmyard manure. The Peas are sown
thickly in the trenches, and it is very rarely they
require watering. Our chief varieties last year
were Little Marvel, Advancer, Alderman, Essex
Star, Model Telephone and Victoria. I am very
reluctant to trust new varieties for main crops,
hence the old varieties. From two quarts of Essex
Star sown we gathered upwards of twelve bushels
of pods, .'Ml other kinds did well in a lesser
degree. — John Beams, Kensington and Chelsea
School, Banstead, Surrey.

Rose Rayon d'Or. — Your correspondent, Mr.
H. E. Molyneux, on page 8i, issue February 15,
groups this Rose with the Hybrid Teas, but 1 con-
tend it is so very distinct from that tribe that
its inclusion among the Hybrid Teas would be an
error. One has only to look upon its lovely foliage
and prickly growths to see at once that it belongs
to a new race ; and why not call this race Rosa
pemetiana, as most authorities are doing ? I am
as much averse as anyone to multiplying groups ;
but when a new race is so very evident, as in the
case of Roses such as Arthur R. Goodwin, Rayon
d'Or, Juliet and Beaut6 de Lyon, to say nothing
of the beautiful varieties M. Pernet-Ducher
will soon be sending us, I think it is quite time for
our National Society to recognise the group. 1
admit there are already two sections of this new
group, the one more closely resembling the sttu'dy
Soleil d'Or and the other the Hybrid Tea ; but I
am convinced all thoughtful rosarians will see the
wisdom of recognising the new group. — Danecroft.
[We notice that some of oiu: leading Rose nursery-
men are listing Rayon d'Or as a Hybrid Tea, but
it is, as our correspondent points out, one of a
quite distinct type. — Ed.]

The Multiplication of Sweet Pea Names.—

Your correspondent " Am^ethon," page 60,
February i issue, waxes eloquent on this subject,
and, like me, he wants something done. The
question is, " What ? " My latest suggestion is
that two lists should be compiled, one of synonyms
and one of too-much-aUkes. Of the latter, no
two, under existing rules, should be shown in
one exhibit ; of the former, all the varieties in
any one class, e.g., crimson, cream, and lavender,
must be exhibited under one name chosen by the
floral committee of the National Sweet Pea Society.
Decorator, which received an award this year,
is a step in the right direction. But the question
is not so easy as it looks. If it were a question of
colour only, it would be easy enough ; but there
are other things to consider. " Amsethon "
seems to think that none but a committee of
amateurs can give a rehable and unbiassed decision
on the question. Why is this ? If such men as
Cuthbertson, Sydenham, Wright and many more
cannot be trusted to decide on merit only, who
can ? I might add the names of Aldersey and
several others. For myself, as a member of what
may be called the " amateur " class who, being
obUged to earn his living, has taken up Sweet Pea
culture with that object and from an inborn love
of flowers, I may say that I have complete confidence
in the official members of the National Sweet Pea
Society. I believe that they are honestly desirous
of giving a fair and just decision on all matters

that are brought up for their consideration, and
for this reason probably hesitate to " rush in
where angels fear to tread." Thi oretically, I
would rather see these questions d' -ided by a
committee of amateurs ; practically, they would
probably be a hopeless failure. — T. H. Dipnall.
Three Good Hyacinths. — Somehow, I cannot

quite give them up. Old associations are very
clinging. Last autumn I bought one or two
" pigs in a poke " ; one of them, Oranjeboven, is
very charming and of an uncommon colour among
Hyacinths. My Dutch dictionary tells me that
the name means extra or very orange, and so it is.
There is a deeper line down the middle of each
petal, with the edges much paler. I have consulted
my Colour Chart, and found the dark stripe to be
76-1 and the lighter outsides 751 or thereabouts.
The bells arc not too crowded on the spike. .\
well-tried old friend is the pretty pale pink General
de Wet. I like the ciu'l back of the petals and the
loose arrangement of the flowers on the stem.
Sir William Mansfield has been a stranger for a
considerable time, but I have renewed his acquain-
tance this year. The colour is a reddish mauve,
and the type of flower and spike rather recalls
Gigantea. It is just a wee bit weak on the stem,
and needs a friendly support. " Quite a lady's
shade," I was told yesterday. — -J. Jacob.
Sweet Peas as Bedding Plants. — I was greatly

interested in reading the article under this heading
in The Garden for February r, page 56, as I
have used the Sweet Pea for beds since 1902.
During that year the bed was a large Maltese
cross, and the colours used were red, white and
blue. The centre was red, and the arms were white
and blue alternately. When the planting was
completed, a wire frame the exact size and shape
and covered with netting was placed over the bed.
As the plants advanced in growth they were taken
through the netting (which was about six inches
above the soil) and trained within their allotted
space. The training, pinching, tying and pod-
picking required great attention ; but when the
plants were in full bloom the effect was charming.
For convenience of training and t>'ing, a four-legged
stool or form was thrown across the centre of the
bed ; then a broad plank was stretched from the
grass to the stool, from which plank any part of
the bed could be reached with ease. — J. Brown,
Balminnoch, N.B.
Applying Manure-Water to Roses in February.

— I was much surprised to read Mr. T. Stevenson,
in " Gardening of the Week " of the issue February 8,
recommending the above practice. During a fairly
long experience I have never seen nor' "known
manure-water given at this time of the year, nnr
can I recall to mind having seen it advised by other
writers. True, it is carried out in late autumn,
and even early winter when mild, for fruit and
Rose trees ; but can it be wise to give manure-
water just now ? To the writer it seems more
Ukely to be injurious than in any degree beneficial,
but I may be wrong in so judging and am open to
correction. Most rosarians, I feel sure, are anxious
just now that their plants should remain as quiet
as possible ; but manure-water is always admitted
to have an exciting or stimulating effect upon
growth. There is another month of dangerous
weather possibilities, and, owing to the mild weather
we have had, Roses are already too much advanced
for the time of year. Is there any proof that
Rose trees in their present stage of growth need
or can avail themselves of manure-water, or that
the soil will retain it until they stand in
neC'l ? — C. Turner.

PRIZES FOR THE BEST
ROCK GARDENS.

To further stimulate the interest that is being
taken in rock gardens, the Proprietors of The
Garden offer the following prizes for three photo-
graphs of a rock garden, or portions of a rook
garden :

First Prize : Five Guineas, or a Silver Cup of
that value.

Second prize : Two Guineas, or Books of that
value.

Third prize : One Guinea.

The competition is open only to the actual
owner of the rock garden, or to his or her gardener.
The object is to encourage good rock gardening,
and preference will, therefore, be given to those
rock gardens which show originality in design, and
where the plants depicted are well grown. It
should be distinctly understood tliat awards will
be made to the best rock gardens, and not neces-
sarily to the best photographs. The photographs
need not be taken by the competitor, who must,
however, in such cases have the written consent
of the photographer for their reproduction in The
Garden. The competition is subject to the
following rules :

1. Not more than three pliotographs of each ,

garden may be sent in by one competitor.

2. Each photograph must have the full name and

address of the competitor plainly written
on the back in ink.

3. Successful competitors shall furnish wTitten

particulars of the rock garden forming the
subject of their photographs.

4. Glazed P.O. P. prints must be sent, and each

should be on a mount with not more than
half an inch margin.
=,. -Ml photographs must be sent to arrii'e at
The Garden Offices, 20, Tavistock Street,
Strand, W.C. not later than June i, 1913.

6. Unsuccessful photographs sent in for com-

petition will be returned if a sufficiently
stamped and addressed envelope or wrapper
is enclosed for the purpose, but no responsi-
bility will be taken for the loss or damage of
photographs submitted, although every care
will be taken to return them uninjured.

7, The Proprietors of The Garden reserve to

themselves the right to reproduce ayn
photograph sent in for competition.

5. The decision of the Editor will bf- final.

CROCUS KATHLEEN PARLOW.

This new Crocus is an exceptionally bold-looking
and handsome bedding variety with pure white
flowers. The plant is a very free bloomer. It
was exhibited by Messrs. Cartwrigbt and Goodwin
of Kidderminster at the last fortnightly exhi-
bition of the Royal Horticultural Society, when
it was the only novelty brought before the floral
committee to receive an award. It was granted an
award of merit.

FORTHCOMlNCr EVENTS.

March 4.— Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting
and Bulb Show (two days). Lecture at three o'clock
on the first day by Mr, W. H. Divers, V.M,H., on
" The Spring Flower Garden," Scottish Horti-
cultural Association's Meetmg, Croydon and Dis-
trict Horticultural Mutual Improvement Society's
Meeting.

March 6. — Linnean Society's Meeting.

104

THE GARDEN.

[March i, 1913.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

A SIMPLE GARDEN SEAT.

m

A>JY pleasing features of a garden can
be made in the simplest way, and
the garden seat shown in the accom-
panying illustration is one of these.
The seat itself is of a simple
character, constructed of slips of
wrjod about an inch and a-half across and
aljout an inch thick. It is set on posts with a
pavement of flat stones underneath and in front,
and is covered with an arching bower, composed
of branches from an old Ash tree which stood in
the field from which the garden was formed, and
which had to be cut down for the
sake of the garden. These were
selected so as to form arches over
the seat, and they have been
covered over with the lovely Blush
Rambler Rose, one of the freest
.md most vigorous as well as one
of the most charming of all
Rambler Roses. It makes strong
shoots annually, and these, if just
shortened and the weak and oldest
wood removed, give each year a
mass of lovely blush flowers. These
are comparatively small and semi-
double, and are borne in huge
hunches. The illustration, unfor-
tunately, does not show the whole
of the flowers.

Dumfries. S. .Arnott.

believe it belongs. It is of China-like growth and
a very pretty and promising variety, but it appears
to be catalogued as a Tea in most lists.

Miss Alice de Rothschild (A. Dickson and
Sons, 1910). — This is a good strong grower, almost
Hybrid Tea-like in growth, but with a Marechal
Niel perfume that may or may not denote its
parentage. A free-flowering yellow Tea of much
promise as a garden Rose, mildew-proot, and makes
a fine standard.

Mrs. Foley HobbS (A. Dickson and Sons, 1910).
— Although an exhibition Rose of the first water,
this Rose should be in every garden. I consider it
the finest Tea of recent introduction, and as it is of
easy culture and good growth, good alike on dwarf
or standard and sweetly perfumed, all should try

SOME OF THE NEWER
ROSES.

TEA ROSES.

(Qontimied from page 92.)
Many of the Teas make fine
decorative garden plants, especially
the more hardy varieties of the
family, such as G. Nabonnand,
Mrs. Herbert Stevens, Mme. Antoine
Mari, Jean Dupuy and Souv. de
Pierre Notting, to name only a few ;
and in the South and South-West
they might with advantage be much
more freely planted. A good Tea
is the most beautiful Rose we have.
There is an additional refinement
about the flower that other Roses
lack, and the extra trouble that
may be necessary for their cuUure
is so slight, taking the form of
earthing up durmg the winter, that
one is amply repaid. I have
already dealt with the newer ex-
hibition varieties, and the garden or decorative
list is not a long one, as few of the hybridists
make a speciality of Teas.

Lady Hillingdon (Lowe and Shawyer, 1910). —
This, until the appearance of Sunburst, was our
deepest yellow garden Rose, and I am not sure
that it is not still entitled to that distinction.
It has fine long pointed buds of a deep apricot
yellow, but the open flower is apt to be thin. A
fine Rose on a standard or half-standard, but it
hangs its head somewhat, which is its only fault.
A good grower, mildew-proof and fragrant. Awarded
the gold medal of the National Rose Society.

Little Dorrit (Paul and Son, 1912). — This I
described under " Hybrid Teas," to which cla;s I

frosts of October, it was one of the last Roses in
my garden to give me a good flower.

DWARF POLYANTHAS OR POMPONS.

There have been a fair number of additions to
these delightful Roses in the last few years, but I
have not grown many of them. Herr Peter Lambert
of Trier has given us many varieties. Messrs.
Paul and Son of Cheshunt have sent out several,
notably their Queen of the Musks and Snowstorm.
Then two very fine additions to this cLass in Maman
Turbat (Turbat and Co.), a very pretty flower,
large for this class, and Yvonne Rabier (Turbat and
Co.), a beautiful white that should be grand for
beds, made their appearance at the " International "
at Chelsea, and are now in commerce. They
should certainly be tried.

Jessie (Merry weather, 1909) must
also be mentioned. A bright crim-
son, small-flowered variety but very
free, keeping its colour well and
always in bloom. Excellent for a
dwarf bedder under standards or
as an edging. I have a half-
standard that is carrying flowers
now (February), notwithstanding
wind, rain and hurricane.

Orleans Rose (Levavasseur.
1910). — A fine companion to the
above, and, I think, the best of all
the numerous pink varieties. I
prefer it to Mrs. Cutbush, gene-
rally accepted as the best pink.
It is freer-flowering in the autumn,
and produces its flowers in immense
clusters.
Southampton. H. E. Moi.vneu,\.

A SIMPLE G.^RDEN MiAT. THb ARCH IS COVERED WITH ROSE
BLUSH RAMBLER.

it who have not done so. A gold medal variety.
Colour, delicate cream ; the catalogues call it ivory
white. The young flowers have a slight Picutee
edging that adds to their charm.

Mrs. Herbert Stevens (S. McGredy and Son,
1910). — Another Rose I referred to under " Exhibi-
tion Varieties," but its right place is among the
garden Roses. A pure white Rose of long pointed
flowers, of not many petals, that hangs its head
modestly ; it is a great favourite with me. A
vigorous grower for a Tea, as hardy as any Rose.
I am inclmed to call it the most refined, if not the
most beautiful, of all white Roses. A bed of it
has flowers from May untU December in an ordinary
season, and last year (1912), despite the early

FALLACIES REGARDING
TEA ROSES.

In most of our Rose guides we
are instructed to give Tea Roses
a light, gritty soil, and the
warmest spot we can select for
them, -■^s I have no specially warm
spot, and as my soil is about as
strong a clay as can well be ima-
gined, I was compelled to plant
my Tea Roses under these dis-
advantages. But what do I find ?
Why ! simply that the Roses seem
intensely happy tmder the condi-
tions named. I have such sorts
as Mrs. Myles Kennedy, Hugo
Roller, W. R. Smith, Molly Shar-
man Crawford, Anna Olivier and
Medea making basal growths as
thick as one's little finger. Varieties
such as Souvenir de Catherine
Guillot and Mme. de WattevUle seem quite happy,
and I know from past e.xperience in other parts
that they are not the easiest sorts to pull through.
I admit I have the advantage of the sea air
about one and a-half miles away, b)it I think it is
the soil. The conclusion I have come to is that
the seedling Briar prefers clay, and as we bud
our Tea Roses on the seedling Briar, it seems
reasonable to study rather the stock than the
Rose budded upon it. We may know that the
wild Briar loves moisture, for do we not often find
them luxuriating near a brook ?

It is really wonderful what a length a seedling
Briar root will descend. I have dug some plants
this vear whose roots when measured were over a

March i, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

106

yard in length. No wonder such plants can laugh
at a dry season when they are so well anchored
in a clay subsoil. 1 thought perhaps this might
be a useful topic to discuss at this slack season,
and it would be very helpful to beginners in Rose-
growing. Dasecroft.

THE GREENHOUSE.

GREENHOUSE PLANTS FROM SEED-

WITH the advent of spring, seed-
sowing, both out of doors and
under glass, is in full sxving,
and among other items the
decoration of the greenhouse
and conservatory during the
summer and autumn months has to be fully con-
sidered and provided for. Of course,
many of the occupants of these struc-
tures are of a permanent character,
and others that loom largely as green-
house flowers, such as Primulas,
Calceolarias, Ciner.irias and Cycla-
men, must not be sown thus early
in the year. Still, there are a great
many that may be sown now, notably
a large variety of annuals, which for
greenhouse decoration increase in
popularity year by year. One of
the reasons of this is that annuals
have had a deal of attention devoted
to them of late, the result being
vastly-improved forms, and also the
fact that the .different varieties and
colours can be depended upon tn
come true from seed. It is, of course,
necessary that the seed be obtained
from a reliable lirm.

Good Kinds. — Of flowering annual-
that are particularly amenable to pot
culture may be mentioned .-^lonsoas.
Nemesias, Phlox Drummondii, .\sters.
Balsams, Browallias, Celosia pyra-
midalis, Clarkias, Mignonette.
Rhodanthe .Vlaiiglesii. Stocks and
Schizanthus. .\lt hough some of thesr
do not remain at their best for lonp,
by sowing at intervals a succession
may be kept up for a considerable
time.

Hints on Sowing. — The golden rule
to be observed in sowing annuals, or,
in fact, seeds of any kinds, is to take
care that they are not sown too
thickly, otherwise they are heavily handicapped
from the start, being drawn up thin and weak.
To obviate this, the young plants should after
germination have plenty of light and air, as if
once weakened, their natural sturdy character
cannot be restored.

-^s an object-lesson agamst overcrowding,
reference may be made to a charming group of
Nemesias which was shown last summer at one
of the meetings of the Royal Horticultural Societv.
These, which were in pots 4^ inches and 5 inches
ill dianieter, were perfect httle models and masses
"i bloom. Each put contained but a single plant.
The young plants were stopped twice during their
growing period, and in this way they formed ideal
little specimens. Ui course, they were not allowed
to get drawn or stunted at any time. The differ-
ence between plants grown in this free and natural
manner and others that developed under crowded

conditions was brought forcibly to my mind a
week or two after I saw those at the Royal Horti-
cultural Hall, when a large batch that made a fine
show of flower was exhibited. .\t a httle distance the
display was all that could be desired, but close
inspection revealed the fact that each pot con-
tained several weak plants that could not possibly
keep up a display for as long a period as those
that had been grown singly. Moreover, the mixed
tmts were less pleasing than those of the plants
which had been grown singlv.

Homilies against thick seeding are often in-
dulged in, but still it goes on Perhaps m some
respects the seedsmen are to blame in giving us
so much for our money. The grand effect often
produced by a solitary self-sown annual in the
open ground furnishes a good object-lesson as to
the possible progress of a plant that has not
been coddled in anv wav.

THE FLOWER GARDEN

A FLOWER BORDER OF GREY AND
BLUE.

HAPPILY, there is no lack of subjects
that lend themselves to a blue and
grey colour - scheme in the hardy
flower border, and few colours blend
m such perfect harmony. Of blue
flowers, the tall spikes of Delphiniums
in variety and Anchusa itahca Dropmore variet>-
are indispensable, while others that readily suggest
themselves are Michaelmas Daisies, Lupines,
Campanulas in variety. Phloxes, Flowers of a Day
(Tradescantia virginica), not to mention the many
blue - flowering annuals, such as Cornflowers,
Myosotis, Nemophila and Nigella, that may readily
be used to fill any vacant spots should they arise.

-^ BORDER OF GRKY KOLIAc^t .\ND ILuWhU-

Plants with Ornamental Foliage. — it is not

flowering plants alone that are readily raised from
seed and can then be used for decorative purposes,
as many whose ornamental foliage is their chief
claim to recognition can be readily increased in
this way. Among these may be included Ama-
ranthus of sorts, whose bright-coloiu'ed, gracefully-
disposed leaves are very effective ; Asparagus in
variety, Coleus of sorts. Eucalyptus globulus and
E. citriodora, Grevillea robusta, Kochia tricho-
phila (which under the name of the Summer
Cypress is very popular both indoors and out),
with the different variegated-leaved forms of the
Indian Com (Zea Mays).

Of the ornamental-fohaged subjects above alluded
to, the Asparagus, Coleus, Eucalyptus and Grevillea
are plants of a perennial character, though they
are readily raised from seeds. The others are of
annual duration. H. P.

For grey effects one needs to fall back upon
foliage plants to a great extent, although there
are suitable flowers, such as Gypsophila and
Statice elata, producing drifts of grey in cloud-
like effect, as seen in the accompanying illustration.
Both Erigerons and Eryngiums may be used to
advantage, and help to make up a late summer
border such as this, .'\mong the best of the silver-
leaved plants must be mentioned Cineraria mari-
tima and Stachys lanata, while Cerastiums and
.Antennarias are likewise useful.

The subject of the illustration is a feature of
the charming gardens at Regal Lodge, Kentford.
These gardens are perfect in point of colour and
grouping, each feature blending unconsciously
with the next without undue formality or anv
leaning towards overcrowding. Thus at one end
of this flower border is situated a paved Lavender
walk, which in itself is a study in grey and blue,

106

THE GARDEN.

[March i, 1913.

A MIXED Bl il; I M 1; IN i II I

with innumerable patches of dwarf Campanulas,
chiefly C. pulla and the variety Miss Willmott,
with bells of silvery blue, growing between the
paving-stones.

The grass path in front of the flower border
leads from the Lavender walk to a little flight of
steps in grass, whence one is conducted to a well-
trained pleached alley of Lime trees — a feature
that was at one time popular in old-world gardens,
but now not seen as frequently as one might hope
to see it. The simple design of the trellis-work
in the background of the border has much to
commend it, and when clothed with blue-
flowering Clematises it wijl enhance the beauty
of this simple flower border, where harmony in
colour rather than contrast is desired.

SOME HARDY BULBS FOR SPRING
PLANTING.

While many bulbs which may be planted in
spring, from now imtil the end of March,
are well known, there are a goodly number which
are not within the ken of the amateur, and
about which he may like to know a little. By
their aid his garden would be rendered a pleasaimce
of higher beauty and of more intense interest.
Some of these bulbs are not listed by many bulb-
dealers, yet all may generally be procured through
the specialists who advertise in the pages of The
Garden. They ordinarily present little difficulty
in their cultivation, but it must be noted that a
number of them are not suitable for permanent
planting and ought to be lifted when the leaves
l)ecome yellow, dried carefully, stored in dry sand,
and kept out of the reach of frost until the following
spring. Unless otherwise indicated, they should
be planted in an open soil of loam, leaf-soil and
sand. A simny place is preferable, though such
flowers as the Poppy Anemone should have a
slightly-shaded place.

Anemones. — It is unnecessary to describe the
Anemones, especially of the coronaria section, of

i.\kL>h.\b .\r GARNONS, HEREFORD.

which the St. Brigid varieties are the best. If
planted in March or April from 2J inches to 3 inches
deep, about five inches apart, they will bloom
during the summer months, long after the autumn-
planted ones are over. The glowing scarlet A.
fulgens and its varieties may also be planted in
spring. A. apennina, blue, can also be planted
up till the middle of March.

Anomatheca cruenta. — A gem among summer-
flowering bulbs is Anomatheca cruenta, which has
bright crimson-scarlet flowers and is hardy in dry
soil in some places, though in many it must
be lifted and stored irntU spring. It is only a
few inches high, and does best in a little shade.

Bessera elegans. — Here we have a charming
flower about two feet high, with umbels of drooping
scarlet blossoms outside, but white inside. Plant
3 inches deep in sandy soil and lift when the leaves
die do\™.

Bravoa geminiflora. — The Twin-flower is a gem
among summer-flowering plants, and gives, on
stems about eighteen inches high, from twenty to
thirty lovely flowers of coral red. It is almost
hardy, but should have some winter protection if
not lifted in winter. Plant 4 inches deep.

Chlidanthus fragrans. — This is an attractive
yellow-flowered bulb, giving white or yellowish,
long-tubed flowers in summer. The fragrance of
the blooms adds to their attractions. It is nearly
hardy, but in cold districts ought to be lifted and
kept in sand during winter.

Cooperia. — This, called the Evening Star, is a
lovely bulb with white flowers, which only open
in the evening. C. Drummondii and C. pedunculata
are the best species, and the latter is the more
refined of the two. Plant 3 inches deep and protect
in winter if not lifted, which is the safer plan.
These have white flowers and are about si.x inches
high.

Crinums. — The hardiest of these stand our
winters in many parts of the British Isles, and are
magnificent flowers for warm places ; they give

great umbels of fine flowers on plants
3 feet or so high. The bulbs should
be planted a foot deep if to be kept
outside, and are best against a wall,
with some protection over the border.
C. hjngiflorum or capense (pink),
Its variety album (white), C. Moorei
(rosy white, slightly tender), C.
Powellii (rose), C. P. album (white)
and C. yemense are the best for
outdoor culture.
Hardy Cyclamen. — I prefer autumn

planting lor these, but dry roots of
C. europccum (crimson) and C. nea-
politanum (rosy pink or white), both
flowering in autumn, can be obtained.
Plant in shade about one inch deep
in any soil with some lime rubbish
mixed with it.

Habranthus pratensls. — No plant
rxcitid mure uiterest at the great
show at Chelsea last year than this.
It is hardy in the Eastern Counties
if grown in sandy soil near a sunny
^ wall in well-drained positions. Plant
0 inches to 12 inches deep. The
flowers, of a brilliant scarlet, open in
May or June. [Autumn planting is
adopted by Mr. Davison of Westwick
Gardens, Norwich, who grows the
plant better than anyone we know.—
Ed.]
Galtonia candicans. — Only a reminder that
March is the time to plant this grand bulb is neces-
sary. Its pendent white flowers are simply grand
in the garden in autumn. Plant 6 inches deep.

Incarvilleas. — These beautiful hardy plants
may be planted in the open from February to
AprU. Plant 3 inches deep in good soil. I.
grandiflora is the dwarfest, I. brevipes is the ne.xt,
and I. Delavayii the tallest. The flowers are carmine
or crimson, with yellow.

Milla biflora. — This is a charming half-hardy
bulb with dainty star-shaped, white flowers. Plant
4 inches deep in sandy soil in a warm place, and
lift and dry in autumn.

PancratitmiS. — In these we have lovely hardy
bulbs, though requiring some protection or lifting
for winter in cold districts. P. illyricum and P.
maritimum are the best. The former should be
plac d 9 inches deep, but the latter will do with
from 6 inches to 8 inches. The charming white
flowers are borne in umbels.

Ranunculuses. — It is necessary to remind
amateurs that Ranunculuses may be' planted in
March or April in good, light, moist soil. Place
the tubers about two inches deep, lift when the
leaves have withered, and store until autumn or
spring. The Giant Double French are the most
vigorous.

Tigridias. — Everybody who has a sunny bed
or border should grow some of the Tigridias, or
Tiger Flowers, gorgeous plants in sunshine, and
of almost barbaric beauty. Plant 2 inches deep
in a drv, rich bed or border, and when the foliage
has withered lift the bulbs and store in dry sand
until spring. They are capable of wonderful
effect, giving flowers from white through yellows
to lilacs, roses and scarlets, and wonderfully marked.
It is unnecessary to speak of Gladioli or Mont-
bretias, as they are frequently treated of in The
Garden, and Mr. Bowles has been dealing fully
with the Lilies.

Dumjriii. S. AkNorr.

March r. 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

107

BORDERS OF ANNUALS AND
HERBACEOLfS PLANTS.

,\i.THOUGH among plants of :innual duration only,
or those perennials usually growni as annuals, we
find some of the most beautiful of our outdoor
flowers, one cannot say that they are groivn so
extensively as their merits deserve. For their
beauty alone such kinds as Antirrhinums, Lark-
spurs, Godetias and Clarkias demand a place in
the best of gardens, while the fragrance of such as
Mignonette and Night-scented Stock endears them
to all. Apart from their beauty and fragrance,
however, annuals are particularly useful for filhng
blank spaces in mixed or herbaceous borders, also
for planting or sowing between such bulbs as May-
flowering Tulips. These bulbs, owing to their late
date of flowering, often cause the gardener con-
siderable worry, as to follow them with ordinary
bedding plants would necessitate lifting the bulbs
some time before they were ready.

It is in such instances as this that annual flowers
have a special value. They can either be sown
between the Tulips or other late-flowering bulbs,
or plants can be raised in frames and planted out
between the Tulips, this latter course being adopted
with such kinds as .\ntirrbinums and Pentstemons,
which, though not strictly annuals, are often grown
as such, and which must be sown early in the year
to get them into flower during late summer and
autumn.

The accompanying illustrations — one of a bulb
border sown or planted with annuals, and the
other a mixed border containing some annuals —
are from photographs taken by Mr. J. Crnot Tucker
in the gardens at Garnons, Hereford, the residence
of Sir John Cotterell, Bart. We are indebted to
the head-gardener at Garnons, Mr. Charles Liddle,
lor the following particulars relating to them.
.Mr. Liddle has only been at Garnons four years,
and made up the annual borders three years ago.
These borders (shown on this page) are planted with
May-flowering Tulips, these being grouped in masses
of separate colours, with clusters of
German Irises, and the annuals sown
or planted between them. Among the
annuals used are Antirrhinums, tall
white and pink, and intermediate forms
of the same colours ; Pentstemons
Gosford Pink and Newbury Gem,
mauve and pink Verbenas, and white
and purple East Lothian Stocks. Thi
annuals commenced to flower at the
beginnmg of July, and made a good
display well into the autumn.

The mixed border (page io6) is in
front of a fruit wall, and contains
Roses on poles, the tLornless Rose
Zephyrine Drouhin being successfuUv
used in this way. Its vigorous habit,
fragrance and the delightful colour of
its blooms render it excellent for the
purpose. Michaelmas Daisies, Heli-
anthemums, Campanula pyramidalis
and Artemisias are freely planted in
good-sized groups, with plants of more
lowly stature in the foreground.

The illustration on page io8 show^
an awkward-shaped bed in an Essex
garden, where the same idea of using
annuals between bulbs, as referred to
above, has been carried out. The
bed contains choice Darwin Tulips,
between which the Candytuft was
sown abotit the middle of April.
As may be seen, the Candytuft is

perfectly happy, and the Tulips were none the
worse for the association. The cost of the seed
used in this bed was threepence. After the Candy-
tuft had finished, the Tulips were lifted, the ground
well dug and the bulbs replanted. Between them
Snowdrops were also planted, and these have given
a right royal display this spring. Now, the
Tulips are coming up freely, and later on will give
us their flowers, to be followed in July and August
with a display of annuals. In addition to Candy-
tuft and the others already mentioned, there are
many annual flowers that could be utilised in this
way. A few that come to mind are Mignonette,
white .Myssum, Leptosiphon, Virginian Stock,
dwarf Larkspurs, Antirrhinums, Nigella Miss
Jekyll where tall plants can be accommodated,
(iodetia. Clarkia and Shirlev Poppv.

COLOURED PLATE.

PliATB 1466.

SNAPDRAGONS AND THEIR
CULTIVATION.

IN the Snapdragons, or Dragon's .Mouths, as
we delight to call the many beautiful forms
of Antirrhinum majus, we have flowers of
great beauty and curious form, plants of
excellent habit, free-flowering propensities
and almost immune from disease, while
their floral display is continued over a longer
period than that of most kinds of plants which
can be as easily raised from seed. Snapdragons
have been known in our gardens for a great many
years, and some of the striped forms are figured
in the old herbals ; but, in common with many
other flowers, it is only during the last decade
or two that the majority of the beautiful varieties
which adorn our gardens have been evolved. These
varieties, four of which are shown in the accom-
panying coloured plate, are the outcome of long,
ardent, intelligent labours on the part of a few

of our leading seed firms, among which Messrs.
Sutton and Sons have always held a foremost
position. It is to this firm that we are indebted
for the colour photograph from which the coloured
plate has been prepared, and the varieties shown
therein are from their trial grounds at Reading.

The usefulness of these modern Snapdragons in
the outdoor garden can scarcely be overstated.
Providing the soil is well drained and does not
contain a great amount of fresh manure, the plants
will thrive almost anywhere. Beds or borders
may be filled with them, or clusters of one colour
may well find a home in the mixed border. For
those narrow borders usually to be found next to
the dwelling-house, and where the soil is often too
poor and dry for many plants, the Snapdragons
will thrive luxuriantly, while for the tops of walls,
or the interstices of dry walls where there is a modi-
cmn of good soil, we know of few better plants.
At Hopetoun House Gardens, Linlithgow, par-
ticulars of which appeared in our issue for
January ii, a whole border of large dimensions is
devoted to them, and so well are the beautiful
art colours blended that the border is one of the
most interesting features of a particularly interesting
garden.

Cultural Notes. — .Although these Antirrhinums
are strictly of perennial duration, the most favoured
method is to treat them as annuals or biennials,
preferably as annuals. For this purpose seeds
are usually sown early in February, and from then
onwards until well into March, so that if seeds are
procured and sown at once, good plants should be
available for the outdoor garden by the second or
third week in May. Well-drained boxes or pans,
filled with soil composed of good loam two parts,
coarse grit one part, and a little sweet leaf-soil or
old manure, should be used for seed-sowing, which
must be done thinly, and the seeds lightly covered
with fine soil. If placed in a warm greenhouse or
frame, the seedlings soon appear, and should be
early transplanted to other boxes or pans filled

BORDERS OF .\XNU.\L FLOWliRS .\T GARNONS, HEREFORD. THESE BORDERS WERE FILLED WITH

TULIPS IN" THE SPRIXG.

108

THE GAKDEN.

[March i, 1913-

with similar soil to that already advised, except
that rather more decayed manure and, if available,
a little old mortar may with advantage be added.
The seedlings should be placed 3 inches apart
each way, as it is highly essential that sturdy,
branching young plants be secured. With this
end in view, free ventilation, as soon as the seedlings
are established, must be given, and they must be
kept near the glass. If in a frame, the lights may
be entirely removed on bright, simny days. About
the second or third week in May, or even a little
later, the young plants should be put out about
a foot apart in their permanent quarters, and from
early July right on until severe frosts are experienced
they will give a bounteous display of flowers.

When treated as biennials,
it is usual to sow the seed in
the open garden in June or
July, subsequently transplant-
ing the seedlings either into
other beds, and later still
into their flowering quarters,
or direct into the latter posi
tions, whichever method is
adopted being a matter of
convenience. Plants raised in
this way 'commence to flower
in early summer, and continue
to do so, as a rule, well into
the autumn. It is, however,
essential to remove seed-pods
and old flower - stalks as
frequently as possible. Named
varieties are sometimes in-
creased by means of cuttings ;
but as most of the colours
come true from seed and the
seedling plants usually possess
the greater vitality, few care
to bother with cuttings. We
prefer the tall and medium
types of Snapdragons to the
dwarf, stunted section, which,
however, some like to use as
an edging to beds. It is, how-
ever, but a poor example of
a beautiful race of flowers.
With the wide range of
colours available, it would be
invidious to specially mention
any by name. All that are
offered by seed firms of
repute are good.

All the varieties are gross feeders and prefer ; so detrimental to success as deep planting. All
an alluvial soil rich in humus, such as leaf-mo>ild , the rhizomatous Irises produce their rhizomes along

or well-decayed manure, and they well repay
any extra trouble taken in order to give them a
good start ; in fact, there are few plants of such
easy culture when their requirements are properly
understood. Of course, to plant them in a dry
position or in poor, sandy soil' is courting failure
at the commencement.

When to Plant. — Another point is that they
should be replanted 'at the right time. The proper
time to replant this and, in fact, all other species
of this extensive genus is immediately after they

the surface of the soil, and this points to the idea
that sunshine is essential to success. The primary
roots of practically all the genus have the habit
of striking straight downwards, and once these
have developed, any disturbance afterwards is
distasteful to the plants, so much so that even the
operation of forking between the clumps
will often cause them to fail to produce their
flowers.

The Best Varieties. — Of the numerous varie-
ties of I. sibirica which are worth growing, I

IRIS SIBIRICA AND
ITS VARIETIES.

The numerous varieties of this
handsome and well - known
species are all possessed of ex-
ceptional merit as garden
plants. All the forms are ex-
ceedingly graceful and are most
pleasing when grown together in clumps or massed
for effect. For grouping together on the margins
of a pond or water-course there are few subjects
so delightful, the lavender blue and violet coloured
varieties being particularly useful for this purpose,
forming bright and most pleasing masses
of colour in the landscape. In choosing a posi-
tion in which to plant, the chief consideration
should be to secure one where the plants will
receive full sunshine at all times, preferably one
adjoining or in the vicinity of a plentiful water
supply.

have finished flowering, not in the winter period, I can recommend the following, all of which
as is the case with most herbaceous plants. It is I may be purchased from nurserymen at from 3d.

to gd. each : sibirica (type),
standard (or petals) light blue,
fall (or sepals) purplish blue,
reticulated ; alba, pure white •
Snow Queen, a fine white
variety with raiher larger
flowers than the type ; atro-
purpurea, a rich deep purple ;
acuta, deep blue falls, white
reticulations and of dwarf, com-
pact habit ; furcata, white,
falls reticulated with yellow ;
lactea, white, reticulated with
brown ; Melpomene, a dwarf
variety with white flowers ;
and Baxteri, blue, with white
falls.

In his recent monograph of
the genus Iris, Mr. W. R.
Dykes suggests that I. sibirica
is confined to Central Europe
and Russia, and that the
Siberian plant is I. orientalis.
He points out that the two
plants may be readily dis-
tinguished by their fruits and
seeds, and illustrates their
distinguishing characters with
some exquisite coloured plates.
Apart from their fruits and
seeds, the two plants may be
readily distinguished by their
habit of flowering, the blos-
soms of I. sibirica being borne
on long, slender stems often
twice the length of the
leaves, while those of I.
orientalis are on short stems
partly hidden among the leaves
or barely rising above them.
P. C. Raffill.

A SUMMER BED OF MIXED CANDYTUFT. IN THE SPRING THIS BED WAS
MADE BEAUTIFUL WITH DARWIN TULIPS AND THE CANDYTUFT SEED
WAS SOWN BETWEEN THEM IN APRIL. (See page 107.)

immediately after the flowers are over that the
new growths are made with their accompanying
new roots, and any necessary division or replanting
should precede the new growth. In the case of
I. sibirica this should be done about July, but is
liable to vary slightly from year to year. If
replanted at the proper season, there is sufficient

RAISING ASTERS IN
COLD FRAMES.

It is, I think, safe to assert
that there are no more de-
lightful flowers grown in our
gardens than these, and it is therefore regrettable
that they should so seldom be seen in per-
fection. Of course, hundreds of amateurs
produce magnificent blooms, but thousands
of others have flowers of mediocre or poor quality.
The reasons for this are not easy to indicate. Beyond
question the point of initial importance is to pro-

time for them to become established in their new 1 cure seeds from a source of the first repute : but
quarters before the winter period, and most of | this presents no difiiculties. Then the seeds must
the plants will flower the followrag year. In j be sown sensibly and the plants treated rationallv
planting it is important that the rhizomes should 1 throughout, and these things are not invariably
be Hept on oj- near the. surf ace, as there js nothjng '• done. Then the soil mifst he clean and not made

March i, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

109

1 ink with excessive dressings of manure, as is far
(no i-ommoaly seen. The growers then wonder
w: their plants collapse — the real marvel would
' if they lived in health in such unsatisfactory

aiitions. The fact of the matter is that the idea
.5 gaining ground that manure will take the place of
mechanical cultivation. Those who hold this impres- ,
sion must disabuse their minds of it at once if they
desire to achieve real success in the garden.

The point raised as to purchasing seeds of the ;
finest quality has been practically disposed of |
already, since there are many seedsmen upon whom
complete reliance may be placed. For example,
Messrs. E. Webb and Son have a particularly choice
strain of Comet ."Vster. The quality of the blooms
can be seen in the illustration on page no, '

that direction often end in dire failure. The earlier
the seeds are sown and the warmer the structure
in which the seed-boxes are placed, the greater the
trouble of culture and the more the chances of loss
and disappointment. Given a cold frame, even
a box with a piece of glass over it, some sweet,
fine, friable soil, and intelligence, everything
essential to success is at command. Let there be
a generous proportion of sweet leaf-mould and
sharp sand in the soil, and make the surface firm
and level prior to the distribution, evenly and very
thinly, of the seeds. It must, of course, be
pleasantly moist, and it is then improbable that
more water will be needed until the seedlings are
through. As regards the time of sowing, one has
latitude, since anv dav between the end of the

base of humus already present, it is much wiser
to rely upon a little artificial fertiliser than to mix
in organic manures. There are plenty of excellent
plant foods advertised in The Garden that can
be advantageously used according to directions,
or a home-made compound of superphosphate and
sulphate of potash may be applied. In any case,
let the dressing be made three weeks, and preferably
one month, before the planting is done. F. R.

THE HEATH GARDEN.

HOW TO MAKE AND MAINTAIN IT-

In these days, when fashion has given a healthy
impetus to the improvement of flower gardening

.\N Kll-ECTIVE GROUPTNG OF TRTS SIBIRICA BY THE WATER-SIDE AT KRW.

but the range of refined and charming colours is
not reproduced. In case some captious critic
should cavil at the two or three single plants
observable, let it at once be said that they were
planted as fill-ups. and the proud owner knew
they would come sooner or later and detract a
little from the effect.

Sowing the Seed. — The next point which shall
l)e passed in review is the seeding. No artificial
heat whatever is necessary ; indeed, I am inclined
strongly to the view that it is not desirable.
.Amateurs with heated frames and greenhouses
are almost sure to sow the seeds too early, with
the inevitable result that endless worry and trouble
are involved in keeping the plants sturdy, strong
«nd compact, and, unfortunately, all efforts in

third week of March and a similar time in .\pril
will answer splendidly. The seeding ought to
be so thin that thinning wdl not be required, and
when the available space is filled, prick the young-
sters out in a bed to strengthen. Here they will
make many roots, and about the end of May they
should go into their flowering quarters. Moderately
firm planting is necessary, and the distance asunder
will obviously vary with the varieties cultivated.
The plants shown in the illustration were raised in
a cold frame on the lines indicated above.

Then as to the soil. It must be in perfect
ph\-sical condition, and there must be a supply of
food. To ensure the first named one digs deeply,
taking small bites, and to provide the second
essential one adds manure ; but where there is a

in all its aspects, including rock, water and wall
gardening, as well as a revival of topiary work, it may
not be out of place to enter a special plea for a more
extended use of this interesting race of hardy plants ;
and if one could imitate the graphic pen of a Reginald
Farrer and so describe the many gems contained
in the genus, their easily-understood and modest
requirements, together with the knowledge that
they provide an inexpensive hobby which may be
enjoyed equally by those looking for further exten-
sion to their pleasure grounds or those possessing only
a small strip of ground which may be unsuitable
for other styles of gardening, then the formation
of Heath gardens would soon become general.

The genus Erica, belonging to the Natural Order
Ericacese, is said to contain between four hundred

110

THE GAUDEN.

[March i, 1913.

and five hundred species, the majority of which
come from South Africa, the others being natives
of Britain and Southern Europe. The common
Heath or l.ing. Erica vulgaris or Calluna vulgaris,
so plentiful in the Highlands of Scotland and on
moors in England, is said to extend to North
America, but only in small quantities. The South
."African species were at one time largely grown as
greenhouse plants, but few of them are now in
cultivation, their places being filled by numerous
soft-wooded hybrids which are largely grown on
the Continent for autumn and winter decoration ;
but it is of the varieties that have proved hardy in
Britain that I propose to treat. A full collection
or a selection of those best suited to the climate
may be had to provide a succession of flower almost
throughout the year ; indeed, it may be said that
the Heath garden is never entirely devoid of flowers
unless when the plants are buried deep
in snow. Those flowering in iate autumn
retain their flowers, with very little
diminution in the bright colours, through
the dull months of November and Decem-
ber, and after the plants are entfreh
denuded of flowers, numerous varieties
show such a distinction and contrast
in the colouring of the foliage — some
silvery, some golden, and others bronzy
or russety — that they are not without
decorative effect, while such varieties
as E. multiflora, E. arborea and E.
codonodes will, by the end of the year,
be pushing out their delicate flowers
until arrested by severe frost or a heavy
coating of snow, only to reappear with
renewed beauty as soon as the sun has
proved strong enough to melt the snow
on the higher shoots. These three are
followed in quick succession by a host
of spring and early summer flowering
varieties, a list of which I propose to
give later on, with their respective colours
and habits.

The increased demand now shown for
all kinds of outdoor gardening, and
especially for hardy plants, has been the
means of bringing this highly interesting
genus into more prominence than it has
perhaps hitherto enjoyed ; and while
it cannot be claimed that it has the
reputation of having an accommodating
nature, its wants, when properly under-
stood, are easily satisfied.

Situation and Soil. — The situation

chosen for the Heath garden should be
one having a southern aspect, if pos-
sible, or on a sunny slope leading
from the formal flower garden to the shrubbery
or plantation, a sort of connecting link, in fact,
between the purely artificial and the natural.
The place selected must be thoroughly drained,
if not naturally a dry spot, for these plants will
not thrive with any excess of moisture about the
roots, and the soil, if of a heavy, retentive nature,
or containing much lime, would require to be re-
moved and replaced with a mixture of peat, leaf-
mould and sand or grit. Should the natural soil
lie a light, sandy loam, however, none of these
ingredients wi'l be required. Fortunately, or
unfortunately, I have here a soil in which all sorts
of hardy Heaths grow and luxuriate without any
.issistance, but which requires heavy manuring and
other ingredients to produce crops of fruit and
vegetables, the tiniest scrap of Heath with but
few roots attached being generally sufficient to

establish strong plants in a very short time. As an
instance of the ease with which these plants can be
grown when the soil is suitable, we have a section
of the kitchen garden walks edged with Erica
carnea and E. c. alba as a substitute for the usual
Box edging ; these grow with such rapidity that,
although clipped annually, they have to be lifted
and replanted every few years. The effect in early
spring, when the lines (about eighteen inches in
width) are an unbroken mass of flowers, is one to be
envied by those who find a difficulty in getting
these plants to thrive.

Formation of the Heatti Garden. — As I have
already said, the situation of the Heath garden
may form an adjunct to the formal flower garden,
or it may be an extension or addition to the rock
garden ; and a very pretty effect may be obtained
if a piece of ground is selected which has a decided

do not, as a rule, molest the Heaths, protecting
fences, which often prove a difficulty, need not be
considered. The positions of the beds having been
determined, these should be excavated to a depth
of ij feet to 2 feet and filled in with the mixture
already mentioned. Planting may be safely under-
taken during favourable weather, either in autumn
or spring. The fringes of shrubberies or large
borders might also be made more interesting by
the addition of numerous varieties of the Heath,
disposing them in large, bold clumps or in bays
formed by taller-growing subjects. Edgings of
some of the dwarfer, free-growing sorts might be
formed around the margin of all beds or borders
containing hardy shrubs. There are also
numerous varieties that do not exceed 5 inches
in height which might find a place in the
rockery, their stations being filled with a
suitable compost. T. Wilson.

The Gardens, Glamis Castle, N.B.
(To be continued.)

TREES AND SHRUBS.

w

A BED OF MIXED COMET ASTERS. THESE WERE RAISED
FROM SEED SOWN IN A COLD FRAME IN MARCH. (See pagelOS.)

slope with an undulating surface, where beds of
irregular shapes and sizes could be made to
harmonise with the existing surroundings. A
plantation or belt of timber on the north and east
of the site, if an exposed one, would give shelter
to visitors and do no harm to the plants ; while a
rustic summer-house, thatched with Heather
obtained from some friendly owner of a grouse
moor, erected on a spot to command a good view
of the garden, would add to the general comfort
and appearance. Avoid geometrical designs or
the making of gravel paths, which I do not think
are in keeping with the subject under notice. Beds
cut out in grass, so that when in full growth the
plants may appear as if growing naturally in clumps
out of the turf, give the best effect. The grass will
require to be kept regularly mown, so that each
bed may be examined conveniently. As vermin

THE .JAPANESE QUINCES.

E are so accustomed
to the red - flowered
form of C y d o n i a
japonica that the other
distinct and vari-
coloured varieties are
apt to be neglected. The mild weather
of the present winter at Kew has been
especially favourable for the different
forms growing in the border near ■ the
Pagoda. For nearly two months now
the notice boards at the entrance gates
have indicated to visitors that the
Cydonias are an object of special interest.
Near the Pagoda the plants are grown
as bushes, while at the other end of the
Gardens several plants are flowering
freely against a wall. The protection
afforded the latter is very beneficial
during an ordinary winter. Among an
interesting and varied list of varieties,
the following will be found a useful
selection for walls, fences, or grown as
bushes in a border (in most instances
the name indicates the colour of the
flowers) : C. japonica (red), Aurora (pale
salmon pink), alba, atrococcinea, can-
dica or candicans (pale sulphur white,
very free), luteo viridis (yellow,
shaded green), Moerloezii (pink and
white, a strong grower), umbihcata (rich rose),
sulphurea perfecta, and flore pleno (semi-double,
red). A closely-allied species, C. Maulei, with
orange scarlet flowers, is also blooming freely.
Of this, alba, superba (dark red) and Leichtlinii
(red) are distinct varieties. Layering forms a
ready means of increasing these Quinces.

AND

SOME

GOOD WINTER TREES
SHRUBS.
Prunus davidiana alba.— This, althougl\ it
flowered abnormally early tliis season, is one of our
earliest-flowering trees, and during the first week
of the New Year was one of the greatest attrac-
tions in the gai-den. Owing to its blossoms being
pure white, it is not so readily seen as many others
of the Prunus family ; but when the long, whip-like
growths, studded witli flowers, are caught in the

March r, 1913]

THE GAliDEN.

Ill

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

P

GARDEN PEAS.

EAS form one of our most popular
garden crops, and may be grown in
almost any garden providing the
ground is properly prepared for them.
The Pea is a deep-rooting and moisture-
loving plant, and only when the soil has
been thoroughly prepared can the best results be
obtained ; but, given these conditions, and by
frequent sowmgs, a continual supply of young
pods may be kept up from May till October, or
even November if the weather is favourable. To
grow Peas to perfection it is necessary to trench
and prepare the land early in winter and to mix
a liberal supply of decomposed farmyard manure
with the soil as the work proceeds.

right light, it is a beautiful picture. The tree is of
pyramidal growth, with branches arising from
the base almost as fastigiate as a Lombardy Poplar
and some i8 feet in height, and every year blossoms
m spite of the weather prevailing at the time,
though 1 have never seen it so thickly laden as at
this season. The five-petalled flowers are pro-
duced in ones and twos the entire length of last
year's growth, and are barely an inch in diameter.
Cornus Mas. — This deciduous species, com-
monly known as the Cornelian Cherry, from the
fact that established bushes produce fruits resem-
bling a long Cherry, has flowered profusely. It
occurs wild in the North of Asia in hedges and
;imong bushes, and the wood, being exceptionally
hard, is, I believe, used for making skewers, tooth-
picks and similar articles. In this country, how-
ever, it forms a fairly slow-growing, compact bush,
'and at this season is attractive because of its
minute yellow flowers, which are par-
ticularly pleasing and interesting. In
addition to the type there are one or
two forms which produce prettily-
variegated foliage, and especially good
is the variety C. Mas foliis aureis
variegatis,

Aralia chinensis. — To those who

have a considerable amount of plant-
Mig to do, and who do not know the
merits of this shrub, I would strongly
recommend it. The name by which
it is now recognised is certainly much
more suitable than Dimorphanthus
mandschurica, under which it is often
met with. It is perfectly hardy, will
thrive anywhere, and produces large
;xnd elegant foliage, which, however,
falls at the first touch of frost. The
stems, which are prickly, are quite
hardy, and attain a height of lo feet
or so. When once established this
subject may easily be propagated by
suckers, which arise from the base.
During the summer its appearance is
considerably enhanced by the large
trusses of flower, which, if not indi-
vidually beautiful, give the plant a
further sub-tropical appearance. There
are two variegated forms of this shrub,
one bearing silver, the other golden
variegation. Both are pleasingly
marked and totally distinct from each
other. As the leaves have a great
spread when fully matured, abundance
of room must be allotted the shrubs

when planting, a matter which might easily be When to Sow. — At Frogmore we ni,ake our
overlooked, as when denuded of their foUage one i first sowing in the open as early in January as

selected for sowing. For instance, a 4-feet Pea
should be allowed 6 feet between the rows, and,
if necessary, a line of Spinach or some other quick-
growing crop may be sown between the rows,
to be gathered before the season is too far advanced,
as nothing of this kind should be allowed to remain
long enough to obstruct the free passage of light
and air among the plants. The drills in which the
seeds are sown should be at least 4 inches deep,
and the seeds covered with 2 inches of the finest
soil from the surface of the bed which has been
exposed to the weather during the winter, and
the soil taken from the drills may be allowed to
remain as a protection to the young plants from
cold east wind during the early spring. When a
few inches high, this soil may be carefully worked
in among them before the sticks are placed in
position, thus leaving the ground almost level,
instead of drawing the soil up to the plants in ridge-

PE..\ INTERNAT10N.\L, .\ NEW LARGE-PODDED MAINCROP VARIETY OF GOOD CROPPING QUALITIES

AND EXCELLENT FLAVOUR. (Much reduced.)

:an hardly imagine them to be the same plants.

Cotoneaster pannosa. — This evergreen Cotone-
aster, hailing from Yunnan, is one of the finest
berried winter shrubs we have, and has been
literally covered with its somewhat small red
fruits as compared with some of the other members
of the genus. It certainly is one out of the
numerous species and varieties now growTi that
cannot be omitted, and it has been in commerce
some time. It makes a splendid specimen for a
lawn as we grow it here, as it has quite a graceful
habit with its drooping, slender branches and its
small greyish green leaves. On our cold, wet soil
we have found it quite hardy during the last few
winters, though it is one of those shrubs that
might be tried against a wall, where it would make
a good effect.

Aldenham HowiC, Elilree. Edwin' Beckett.

the state of the soil will permit. For the earliest
and latest sowings a sheltered position should be
chosen, in order to obtain some protection from
rough wind, for although young Pea plants will
stand several degrees of frost without injury,
the effect of rough wind upon them is very detri-
mental. For the earliest sowings, only hardv,
round-seeded varieties should be chosen, and the
rows should run from north to south, in order to
secure the maximum of light and air. There is
great risk in sowing the best WTinkled varieties
before the middle of March, and only then if the
weather and the state of the soil are favourable.
If this rule was more generally adopted, there would
be fewer failures with this class of Pea, especially in
cold, wet seasons.

Preparing the Drills. — The space between the

rows must he

like manner and casting off the rain-water, which
is so necessary for the production of first-class
Peas.

For midsummer or maincrop varieties an open
position should be chosen, and the seeds may be
sown thinner as the season advances, in order to
promote robust growth and render the plants
less likely to suffer from mildew than if crowded
together, as they frequently are. For the latest
sowings, which should take place early in Jiuie,
a position should be chosen with some natural
protection from rough west wind, which often proves
disastrous during the autumn. This is a very
important matter where an unbroken supply has
to be maintained throughout the season.

In all cases, before the plants are staked
a number of small twigs should be placed as
close to the plants as possible, in order to keep
them in an upright position until tlieir tendrils

f-rneU !>>■ the height of the varieties reach the sticks

112

THE GARDEN.

[March i, 1913

Pests. — II- ouce the plants are allowed to suffer
from insufficient moisture at the roots, the evil
cannot be effectually remedied ; but it may be
prevented to a great extent by timely and effectual
watering and mulching. There is no more fertile
cause of mildew among Peas than an insufficient
supply of moisture. Peas suffer greatly from the
depredations of numerous kinds of vermin, and
sparrows in particular, which should be guarded
against by placing wire guards over the rows or
by covering the bed with fish-netting as soon as
the young plants appear above the surface of the
soil. If slugs are troublesome, there
is ho better remedy than dusting
the plants with soot which has been
exposed to the air for some time
previous to use, and this should be
applied early in the morning, when
the atmosphere is moist.

Varieties. — For early sowing
there is no more reliable Pea than
The Pilot, from which we gathered
our first supplies on May 24 last
year. The seeds were sown early
in January on a south border, in
trenches 4 inches deep, and covered
with 2 inches of fine soil. This
Pea was raised a few years ago by
Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons,
and is rapidly gaining favour both
in market and private gardens.
Other varieties to follow The Pilot
should include Veitch's Acme. This
Pea has a flavour quite its own,
and if sown at the end of February
should be ready to gather about
Ihe middle of June. If dwarf varie-
ties are desired for early sowing,
they should include Little Marvel
and Reading Wonder, the latter
being one of the earliest dwarf
Peas in cultivation. Sutton's Seed-
ling and Langley Gem are also very
fine dwarf Peas. For the second
division we have Gradus, Early
Giant and Daniels' Matchless
Marrow, all of them fine Peas for
second sowuig, and will follow the
first crop for succession. In main
crop varieties Royal Salute is one
of the best. Sutton's Superlative,
.Alderman and Discovery are all
good. For the latest division,
Chelsonian, which is a strong-
airowing variety of the Ne Plus
Ultra type ; Distinction, a fine late
Pea which resists mildew well ; Rear-
guard, a new late variety of fine.
quaUty ; and Autocrat are all to be
recommended. For exhibition purposes
is none to equal Carter's Quite Content.

Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn

because uo Potatoes can be bought that will equal
those dug from one's own garden. This shoiJd
apply to each successive group, but it is much more
pronounced with the first earUes than it is with
those grown for main crop and late use.

Having convinced one's self of the paramount
importance of the Potato crop, it should not be
difficult to grasp the value of proper soil prepara-
tion, of procuring perfect seed tubers, of planting
carefully, and of sprouting the sets before con-
signing them to Mother Earth. The particular
size of set utilised has a substantial bearing upon

A GOOD

there

GOOD POTATOES FOR SPRING
PLANTING.

The garden in which vegetables are grown would
be lacking the most important of economic plants
were the Potato to be excluded, and, happily,
such a peculiar method of cropping is rarely seen.
It is often impossible, in these days of small gardens,
even attached to houses in the country, where the
land cannot be wcth many pounds sterling to
the square fooi, to produce enough of the noble
tuber to serve the year round ; but space must
always be found for a few rows of earlv varieties.

CROP OF POTATO ROVALTY, A WHITE MID-SEASON
VARIETY WITH DWARF, BRANCHING HAULM.

the ultimate results, and experience in many
directions goes to prove that an average weight of
30Z. cannot be beaten.

Preparing the Sets. — The advantages of sprout-
ing lie in the production of a more vigorous plant,
which wiU have greater powers of resisting the
disease than one that has been grown from an
unprepared set ; in the prevention of gappy lines
in a quarter, since the tuber which will produce
a strong sprout will give a fine plant ; and in the
fact that one can plant later and harvest the crop
quite as soon. This latter is a point of import-
ance, in view of the injury resulting from late spring
frosts It is wise, too, in addition to sprouting
the seed sets, to damp them thoroughly ouce or
twice with Bordeaux mixture, with a view to
reducmg the serious effects of the blight. It is

well known that spores cling in the soil on the
skins and also congregate in the buds, and it is
from these that the first growths of the murrain
appear rather than from resting spores in the soil.
The old method of dusting the tubers with lime was
good, but there can be little doubt that the copper
sulphate solutionis decidedly better. The only objec-
tion that I have heard raised to the system is that
it may prejudice the progress of the plants, but
proof to the exact contrary is not difficult to adduce.
Another point in connection with seed sets is
to procure them from an outside source every year.
The practice of saving at home is
wrong, and has ended in the ruin
of more than one magnificent
variety. Buy seed from some
different soil and climate — any
source rather than one's own dis-
trict ; but avoid South of England
seed, especially from light, sandy
lands, as one would avoid the
plague, because it throws too big
a proportion of poor plants, and
the plants are hable to disease.

In choosing Potatoes one is pre-
sented with the difficulty that
certain varieties will grow in one
garden and not in another, even
though only a few hundred yards
may separate them. There are,
however, some Potatoes which
flourish satisfactorily in the
majority of places, and it is now
purposed to mention them.

Some Good Varieties . — A

splendid set is CiU'ter's trio, Early
I'avourite, Royalty and Long
Keeper, In regard to the second
named, it is worthy of note that
the tubers are still in excellent
I ondition and are cooking magni-
ficently, although it is classed as
a second-early variety. One could
not go in for Potato cultivation
without trying Sutton's varieties,
of which such earlies as May
Queen, Ringleader and Epicure
have made a reputation which will
last for many ye.irs, whether one
writes of thein or not ; while
Balmoral Castle and White City
are grand for later use, Sutton's,
by the way, advocate yellow for
quality, and they are right in
this, as in so many other things
that they do.

A Scottish set that will please
comprises Midlothian Early (pro-
bably one of the finest early
Potatoes ever introduced). Prolific and The Factor ;
and Dobbie's strain of the old Windsor Castle
requires a lot of beating for home use, Dickson's
recommend Early Queen, New Century and Eastern
Planet, and trial has demonstrated that the three
varieties are fully entitled to all the good things
that the firm claims for them. Irish seed has
become renowned in recent years. Mr. Sands is
keen on Erin's Queen and Irish Hero, but he does
not forget to speak words of commendation regard-
ing the excellent Colleen, One could, however,
write far more of fine Potatoes. AW growers
should select the varieties which they know to
be good and try those mentioned above, if they
have not already done so. in the hope that one or
more of them will turn out superior to the established
favourites. "■ J-

March i, 1913-]

THE GAKDEN.

113

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO GROW TOMATOES UNDER GLASS.

THE cultivator who can command a fair
amount of artificial heat in his glass
structure may sow seeds of Tomatoes
at once. Those who are only able to
heat their structures sufficiently to keep
out frost should not sow the seeds fnr
iuiother fortnight, as then the heat from the sun
will be of great benefit.

The best position for Tomato plants is one fulh
exposed to the sunshine, and the atmosphere in
the house must be dry ; then there will be

00 diseased leaves or fruits. Even the lower
portion of each plant should be quite exposed to
the sun's rays ; then there will be a possibility of
fruit forming from the base to the top, which means

1 arliness and a greater weight of Tomatoes.

Raising the Seedlings. — Through experimenting
,md experienri- t;inir.illy, 1 have fomid it best ti>
sow the seeds in some good, new loam which has
been stacked about four months, and coarse sand
with only a very small proportion of leaf-soil.
The resultant seedlings grow very sturdily in such
a mixture, and few decay at the soil-level. In
alight compost, with a large quantity of leaf-soil
in it, many seedlings die suddenly in this way.
Do not cover the seed pot or pan with glass or
paper, as in such circumstances the seedlings
I'Ome up weakly. .\void overcrowding from the
seedling stage onwards, the seedlings in Fig. i
being rather too thick. Under these circumstances
the seedlings must be pricked off in the very eariy
stages, as soon as they can be handled, placing
them in boxes as depicted in Fig. 2. Until the
seedlings have grown about three inches high,
apply water by inmiersing the pots ui' boxes.

Soil for the Permanent Bed or Pots. — A narrow
border is the best in which to plant the Tomatoes,
but, as previously stated, it must be fully exposed
to the sun. Ten-inch and 12-inch pots are more
suitable than boxes if the plants are grown on a
stage. In every case thorough drainage is essential
to success. If grown on a border in the house
and the stems are trained to stakes or strings,
the soil must be deeply dug and then trodden firm
again before the Tomatoes are planted. Neither
ihemical nor organic manures must be added to
the border soil nor that placed in pots or boxes,
as the necessary feeding must be done after the
two basal bunches of fruits have set. The first
layer of soil should not exceed
7 inches in depth, and later on
surface- dressings half an inch deep
should be put on the roots. All
soils used must be made firm.

Training the Plants. — This

simply consists of restricting each
plant to one main stem, or the re-
moval, while in a very small state,
of all side shoots, keeping the main
stem, main leaves and bunches of
huits only; then, if the plants
are disposed 18 inches apart, they
will have every chance to do well.

Other Necessary Work.— Free

Ventilation in mild weather is
good for the plants generallv ; a
teaspoonful per plant of super-
Phosphate every ten days and weak
'l"ses of manin-e - water weekK-

I. TOMATO SEEDLINGS KEADV TO BE PRICKED

OFF. THE SEED IN THIS INSTANCE WAS
SOWN' TOO THICKLV.

may be given. Other concentrated manures
advertised in The Garde.v may also be used
according to the instructions given with them, but
not pure nitrate of soda nor sulphate of ammonia.
When in flower, the trusses should be gently tapped
at noon on all fine days. .A bigger " set " of fruit
would then result. Frogmore Selected and Sunrise
are good varieties to grow. .\vos.

HOW TO MAKE AND PLANT A
HERBACEOUS BORDER.

Whe.n first confronted with the project of making
and planting a herbaceous border, the inexperi-
enced cultivator of the plants mostly used is at
a loss as to what to do and how to begin the work.
Usually, this work is done without much serious
thought and consideration as to the kinds of plants
to put in, their disposition and their season of
flowering. Then there are the minor details, such
as height of each kind, the spreadmg or erect habit,
and the very important matters of coloiu: blending,
contrast, and the securing of harmony from season

to season. Too often all these vital points are
ignored, with the result that one sees herbaceous
borders which are eyesores during a great part of
the year. The position of the border should be an
open one, and the soil the best that is possible. The
flowers will well repay the best treatment that can
be given, and the beginner should endeavour to
excel in their cultivation.

Trenching the Soil.— SoUsof all kinds should be
deeply trenched before any plants are put in.
Herbaceous plants, generally, are improved by
frequent lifting, division .and replanting ; but there
is no time more suitable for dealing with the soil
than that before the border is filled. If very poor,
add some rotted manure to the soil as the work of
trenching goes on. Thoroughly break up the sub-
soil, but leave it below. The top portion need no;
be broken so finely, as it will be separated through
the planting and by the action of the weather on it
afterwards ; and if of a heavy, retentive nature,
it will also be considerably sweetened.

The Broad Border. — If the border to be dealt

with is a broad one — we will say 9 feet wide the

taUest-growing kinds of herbaceous plants may be
put in near the back of it ; in fact, there will be
sufficient space for all the leading kinds of various
heights, both at the back, in the centre and in the
front portion. Furthermore, each clump of plants
must be of considerable size.

The Narrow Borders are more numerous than
broad ones, and are more difficult to furnish satisfac-
torily. Very tall-growing plants must not be used
unless as isolated specimens, well apart, the medium
and dwarf growing kinds being the best. Whereas
in the large border plants may be grouped in fives,
, sevens and nines, in the narrow border threes and
fives are the more suitable. Shamrock.

2 THE SEEDLINGS ARE TAKEN FROM THE POT AND PRICKED OFF ij INCHES

APART IN BOXLS.

PROPAGATION OF THE LEMON-
SCENTED VERBENA.

This plant, correctly known as Lippia citriodora,
may be increased freely during the spring
and summer months by adopting the following
methods : Place the old plants in the green-
house or on a hot-bed, and water them. Spray
i them over daily until growth commences. When
the young shoots are from ri inches to 2 inches
1 in length, take a very sharp knife and sever them
from the plant with a heel attached. Insert
them around the edges of small
pots, which are filled with very
sandy soil. Make the soil very
firm. Plunge the pots on the hot-
bed, and place over them a hand-
light or bell-glass. Provide shade
during spells of bright sunshine.
Keep the soil moist. Later in the
season cuttings may be rooted with-
out the aid of bottom-heat. The
pots should, however, always be
plunged in some moisture-retaining
material, and be covered by a glass
as advised above. Success is often
attained by these simple methods,
while failure sometimes follows
attempts to propagate this delight-
ful old plant by a more elaborate
system in the stove or propagat-
ing house. c. Ruse.

114

THE GARDEN.

[March i, 1913.

I

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Bedding Plants. — Continue the propagation of
all such subjects until the desired stock is raised,
potting or boxing off those already rooted as they
become fit

Surplus Herbaceous Plants. — Where large
quantities of cut flowers are required, the surplus
plants or offsets should be planted in beds in
some out-of-the-way part of the garden, and where
they may be cut from without depleting the
herbaceous borders.

Seed-Sowing. — Many bedding plants are raised
annually from seed, and, among others, the follow-
mg should now be sown : Lobelia, Pyrethrum,
Variegated Maize, Ornamental Beet, Statices,
Nemesias, Celosias, .^yssum maritimum. Phlox
Drummondii, Amaranthus, Perillas and Kochias.
Thin sowing and an intermediate temperature
:ure far the best for these plants, as they come more
sturdy and need far less hardening of? than when
subjected, say, to a stove heat.

Plants Under Glass.

Begonias. — Winter-fiowering Begonias that may
have gone out of flower and been given a rest may
now be cut back pretty hard, and if placed in a warm,
moist house will soon begin to throw some good
cuttings, though it is full early yet to commence
propagating the main batch, as rather later cuttings
often make the best plants.

Begonia haageana. — This is one of the foliage
Begonias that are exceptionally useful either in the
house or conservatory, and stands well for a long
time even in a very dark situation. Cuttings put
in now, three in a 3-inch pot, may be grown on
into 8i-inch pots by the autumn, and without any
pmchiiig or training make quite good specimen
plants.

Tuberous Begonias. — The present is also a good
time for starting these for pot work, .shaking them
quite free of all soil, and placing them in boxes in
a very light mixtiu'e of leaf-soil and sand. Here
they will quickly make roots, and should be potted
before they have made much top growth.

Pot Roses are now well m growth, and may be
led liberally as soon as the buds show. Climbers
planted out in the houses will likewise be bene-
fited by copious waterings of liquid manure,
or occasionally a dressing of artificial. As the days
get warmer and more ventilation is necessary,
mildew is apt to be troublesome, so the plants
must be either sprayed with a ftuigicide or given a
very light dusting of black sulphur. This ought to
be done as a preventive, rather than leave it till
the plants are badly infested or the beauty of the
foliage is lost.

Climbers such as Rose Dorothy Perkins, Excelsa,
Tausendschon, Paradise, Goldfinch and Lady Gay
may now be introduced into a little w^armth, and
they will make a nice succession to the earlier
batches of Teas and Hybrid Teas. Plenty of room
should be allowed between these tall plants to
allow a proper development of the lower shoots,
or it may be foimd that the top shoots only will
produce good flowers, and thus mitigate con-
siderably the usefulness of this class of plant.

The Kitchen Garden.

Onions and Leeks. — Sown in the early part of
the year, the seedlings should now be advanced
enough for pricking out, 2 inches or 3 inches apart,
in boxes or in frames on a slight hot-bed, where
they can remain till put out in the groimd during
April.

Cauliflowers. — These also will need atten-
lion, and though the above system will suit them
weU, I prefer to pot them off singly in 3-inch pots.
A little heat is necessary immediately after prick-
ing out or potting off, but as soon as they get hold
ot the fresh soU they may be hardened off in the
cold frame.

Lettuces should also be pricked off as soon as
large enough to handle, and to secure an early
crop they also should be pricked o3 in frames
placed on a hot-bed. Seedlmgs that may have
been sown in rows between the Horn Carrots
should be thinned out, and as this crop should be
cleared off as early as possible, they may be left

moderately close together and cut before they
overgrow the Carrots in any way.

Peas and Beans raised in heat should be hardened
off before they become at all attenuated, choosing
a mild day for removing them to the cold frame.
A further sowing of one or two exhibition varieties
may be made in pots or boxes. These I find
often make better and stronger plants after being
planted out than do those raised in the open groimd.

Parsley. — Though full early, a sowing shoiild
be made on a warm border, making the soil very
fine before sowing the seed. This will come in
before the main summer sowing, and possibly
prevent a gap between this latter and the batch
sown in August or September,

Fruits Under Glass.

Peaches. — Continue the disbudding as the trees
get sufficiently advanced, and heeling in should also
be commenced as sOon as the shoots are long enough.
Delay in this matter means curved and unsightly
shoots, which no amount of attention at a later
date will obviate.

Thinning the Fruit. — This is an operation
that should be carried out gradually, leaving at
least one-third more on the trees than is ultimately
wanted for a crop till after the stoning period, this
to counter-balance any loss that may be sustamed
during this critical time. Unfortimately, I have
come across several gardens this season where
the amoimt of blossom on the trees will hardly
leave any surplus for thinning.

Hardy Fruit.
Apricots, Peaches and Nectarines.— Where

tying or nailing has not already been done, it
should be proceeded with at once. Many growers
leave this as late as possible, keeping the shoots
from the walls to delay blooming, and this is a good
plan. But all flower-buds are very forward this
season, and already those of some varieties are
almost open, so further delay is dangerous.

Protection. — Where protection is provided for
the above by means of blinds or canvas that can
be let down at night, it should be fixed in position,
as a severe frost might mean ruin to practically
all the bloom-buds. Where no other protection is
at hand, a fish-net, doubled, hung at a distance of
I foot from the wall, will do a lot of good, and such
a protection may with advantage be given to the
Plums and Pears on the walls, as well as the Peaches.
Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Primula Sieboldii. — The varieties of this Primula
are worthy of more extended cultivation. Here
we have several beds of them, and they are gorgeous
during the month of May. Those who have masses
of them should at this season apply a sUght top-
dressing of some rich, light material. This is also
a good time to plant. Avoid a southern exposure,
give them a rich, friable soU with a cool bottom, and
success is assured.

Sanguinaria canadensis. — The pure white
flowers of this dwarf border plant are rather fragile
and short-lived, but it should be in every collec-
tion. Those wishing to plant it should do so with-
out delay. Give it a free soil, and it will be grateful
for a slight admixtm-e of peat in the compost.

Erica berbacea. — This harbinger of spring
differs from most Heaths, in that it can be quite
happy without peat, especially if it gets some
sand and half-rotted Beech leaves. It will now
have almost finished flowering, and may be
increased by division. I once saw a large
sized bed of this Heath on a lawn in a Fifeshire
garden, and the effect in early spring was very
fine. E. h. alba is also good.

Salvia patens. — Tliis Salvia gives us one of our
finest blues, and is indispensable. It can be
raised from seed in heat, which should be attended
to forthwith. Old tubers may also be placed in
heat to furnish cuttings.

Calceolarias. — Calceolaria amplexicaulis and any
other bedding varieties should now be " lined off "
in frames, placing some flaky leaf-mould or the

rough siftings of loam under the compost, so that
the plants may lift with good balls at planting-time.

The Shrubbery.

Pruning Evergreens. — Such vigorous ever-
greens as Laurels and Laurustinus may now be
primed. A start should be made with the Portugal
Laurels. Whatever form is adopted, stiffness
should be avoided. The knife is generally recom-
mended for this work, but if judiciously used the
pruning-shears will do the work equally well and
more expeditiously. Where pruning has been
neglected, however, the knife should be employed
and the offending branch cut back considerably
beyond the general surface of the bush.

Tree Paeonies. — Where these are employed in
the shrubbery, a light framework should be placed
round them for a few weeks, to support the pro-
tecting mat, when frost occurs to imperil the young,
tender shoots.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Garden Furniture. — The time is not far distant
when garden seats, hammocks and tennis nets
will again be called into use. The whole should
be overhauled, and any necessary repairs executed
and painting done. For garden seats. Oak-grained
or plain or a quiet olive green are the shades to
be preferred. A coat of clear varnish will greatly
help to preserve the paint.

Lawns should be well swept to disperse worm-
casts and be afterwards rolled.

Plants Under Glass.

Gesneras and Nsegelias. — These two genera
are often treated of as being synonymous, and
from the cultivator's point of view they are so.
In addition to the named sorts, innumerable
varieties of seedlings are in commerce. Such old
favourites as zebrina and cinnabarina are indis-
pensable. A batch should now be started.

Deciduous Calanthes.— The present is a good
time to start these terrestrial Orchids. They can
be grown one pseudo-bulb to a 5-inch pot, or three
to a 6-inch pot.

Coleus. — Although not so popular as they once
were, many of the varieties are very beautiful,
and should find some place in the conservatory
during the summer months. Cordelia, with orange
red foliage, is a Io\fely variety while in a young state.
C. thyrsoideus is also very attractive during winter
with its plethora of bright blue flowers. Strike
cuttings now.

Sweet Peas. — Autumn-sown Sweet Peas must
get their final shift without delay, and have atten-
tion given to training them.

Fruits Under Glass.

Strawberries.— Plants whose fruit is swelling
should be fed two or three times a week. Liquid
cow-manure is excellent if used at moderate strength.
A night temperature of 65" wiU suit this batch.
Where the plants are in flower, great care should
be exercised in admitting air, especially if east
winds prevail.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Grafting. — This interesting operation is of
some consequence to the private gardener from
the utilitarian point of view. Those who have any
intentions that way, should proceed with their
work at once.

The Vegetable Garden.

Peas, — A sowing of some second-early variety
should now be made. Royal Salute and Senator
are both excellent sorts, the latter being a great
cropper and only 2 J feet high.

Broad Beans.— A planting of some longpod
variety should now be made, and I am partial to
Bunyard's Exhibition, with its long, well-filled
pods. Plant about six inches apart in the row
and 2j feet between the rows. A dash of wood-
ashes sown into the drills helps the various
leguminous crops.

Carrots. — A sowing of one of the stump-rooted
varieties should be sown on a south border to
succeed those sown in a frame.

Parsley.— This takes about six weeks to germi-
nate, so that a sowing should be made as soon as
convenient.

Potatoes. — Tubers which were started in heat
a few weeks ago should now be hardened off in a
cold frame preparatory to planting.

Charles Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains. Midlothian.

March i, 1913]

THE GARDEN.

115

NATIONAL DAFFODIL
SOCIETY.

[CANNOT say that either the letters in The
Garden or any of those received privately
have ?ltered my opinion as to the suitability
of establishing a National Society. I cer-
tainly do not write in any hostile spirit to
the Royal Horticultural Society, nor yet
to the Midland Society. I have seen the inner
working of the former for a number of years, and
I have come to the conclusion that it is out of its
province to completely provide for the legitimate
wants of the Daffodil people of the world. The
supreme and only power is the Council. The
Narcissus committee have no real authorit)' in
themselves.

Even the classification lists of 1908 and
1910 had to be submitted to the ruling authority
before they could be issued. No money prizes
for shows can be offered by the Royal Horticultural
Society. This has had to be collected from people
who, unless they happen to be members of the
Narcissus committee, can have no voice in its
spending.

It is everyone's business, I am told, to see to
such things as the publication of a year book,
the issuing of a scliedule at the proper time, the
recording varieties exhibited at shows, and such-
like matters ; but what is everyone's, I submit,
is really no one's. .As long as the supreme control
is in the hands of an impersonal body like the
Council, I do not see how it can be otherwise.
They have not the driving power which is so abso-
hilcly necessary if the attempt is to be a success.
The .Midland Society has this in the person of Mr.
Robert Sydenham. Its commanding position
to-day is due to his personal efforts in a very large
measiu'e indeed, but the management is too local
for it to take upon itself " National " functions,
as few, except people who live in Birmingham and
an half-an-hour radius by train, are ever present
at the annual meetings.

Put in a very short form, my proposals are as
follow : (i) A National Society to be formed,
with the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall,
London, as head-quarters. (2) The Midland to
become " The Midland Branch of the National."
(3) Each body to be independently managed and
financed. (4) Subject to certain conditions, which
would be settled by a joint committee of repre-
sentatives of both societies — this to include such
matters as date of shows, classification of varieties,
deputations, publication of a year book — a floral
committee to act at both shows for maldng awards
to new varieties, &c. (5) A low minimum annual
subscriptionjor what might be called the Southern
National. (6) The collecting a special fund to start
the new society, and form a nest-egg for future
use when required.

It is asked by certain growers, seedling-raisers
and dealers if all this will help to sell bulbs. I
think it will, and I instance the Perpetual Flower-
ing Carnation Society under the able guidance of
its chairman. The formation of a National Daffodil
Society will enlarge the circle of supporters, as
not every Daffodil person by any means is a member
of the Royal Horticultural Society. Hence wider
interest and an extended market not only
for show (to take the more expensive kinds),
but also for the garden (to absorb the cheaper
ones) .

Lastly, as everyone would like to see the volume
of support which the new venture is likely to have,

might I ask those who are willing to support the
proposal financially, and by becoming members,
to kindly send me a post-card nith their name and
address. Joseph I.\cob.

Whitewell Rectory, Whitchurch, Salop.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

THE FIFTY BEST ALPINES FOR
SMALL GARDENS.

IT requires a considerable amount of temerity to
submit a list of fifty alpines and to assert that
they are the best fifty for a small garden.
Criticisms, some of them doubtless well
founded, will arise, but it must be remem-
bered that several considerations have had to
be taken into account. In a small garden not only
is the space limited, but an effort has to be made
to prolong the display during as much of the year
as possible, and a representation of the various
classes of plants should also be included. Then,
while the easiest subjects need not always be in-
cluded, it is necessary to confine ourselves to those
which are not among the really troublesome
flowers. Most of the strongest growers are omitted,
but Aubrietias, Phloxes and Arenaria montana

cannot be banished altogether. Exception may
well be taken to the small selection of certain
plants given here, but this is due to the necessity
of affording as much variety as possible. Unless
the owTier of the garden is obsessed with his fancy
for certain plants, he will be well advised not to
make a collection of, say, Saxifrages, worthy
though these are of our full consideration, but
to cultivate alpines giving a more extended period
of bloom.

It will be observed that a few bulbs arc named,
though the list of these might be greatly extended.
For various reasons shrubs, with the exception
of one or two, have been omitted. These and
other sins of omission are due to reasons which
seemed to the writer to be too powerful to ignore.
It may be added with respect to the cultural notes
and other information that sandy loam will answer
for most of the plants named. Some like lime,
but all will do without it. In conclusion, it may
be said that the list is submitted in no spirit of
self-sufficiency, although it is founded on an actual
experience of at least thirty years in growing
alpines in the rock garden. This really adds to
one's diffidence in furnishing it, owing to the full
recognition of its many omissions — omissions which
may to some appear unpardonable offences against
their favourites.

Height.

Inches.

Name.

Acautholiraoii glumaceum

Adonis amurcQsis 9

^thiouema grandiflnrum .. 9

*Androsace lanuginosa ti

Anemone nemoro-^a Allenii.. 6

A. sylvestris major 9

Antiiemis Aizoon ti

•Arenaria montana 6

Aroebia echioides 9

Asperula suberosa s> n Athoa 6

Aspect. Soil.

Sun Loam .

*Aubrietia Moerhcimii

*A. Dr. Mules

'Campanula carganiea hivsuta
*C. portenschlagiana major. .

Chionodoxa gigantea

Crocus speciosus

Cyclamen neapolitanuni ....
Dianthus neglect u^

Erica camea

Erodium chelidoiiifoHum
Erjthronium Pink Beauty

,, Sandy loam

, Loam & grit

Sliadc Loam and

leaf-soil

Rich loam

Sun Sandy loam

Loam \- grit

, Sandy loam

, Sandy loam

and grit
„ Sandy loara

Colour. Pe,iod.

Pink June and July

Yellow Feb. to April

Rosy purpl'.' July to Sept.

Rose May to Sept. ,,

Blue April and May Division

White May and June

June to Aug.

June and July

Yellow May to Aug. . .

Pink June and July

How to Propagnti'.

Seeds or cuttings
Seed<i or division
Seeds or cuttings

4 „

4

6 Sun or shadt-

Galax aphylla 12

Geranium lancastriensc .
*GypsophiIa prostrata r(
Haberlea rhodopensis . . .

Common

Suu Sandy loam

Shade Rich loam

Sun Sandy loam

and grit
Sm\ or partial Sandy loam

shade
Suu

Sun or partial Loam ....

shade
Shad*^

Rose April to June

Purple .... April to June

Pale blue .. June to Sept.

Blue

Lavender . . Feb. to March

Blue September . .

Crims'n orw'te Aug. to Oct,
Cherry red

Flesh or white
Pink

May and June
Dec. to March
June to Oct. . .

Seed or cuttings
Seeds or division
Cuttings or division
Division or seeds

Cuttings or division

Division

Seeds or offsets

Seeds

Seeds or cuttings

Division

Seeds, division and
cuttings
April Offsets

Moist peat
Sandy loam

Hypericum fra2ilp 6

Iberis Little Gem 6

Iris reticulata 9

Linum alpinum 0

Leucojum vemum carpaticum 1 2

* Litho^perrau m prontrat nm 6
var. Heavenly Blue

Onosma tauricum 12

Oxalis enneaphylla 6

6 Sun

6

6 Deep shade.. Moist peaty
loam

Sun Sandy loam

Sun or shade .. ,,
Sun ,

White May to July

Flesh June to Sept.

Pink May and June

Lilac purple May to Aug.
and white

Yellow June to Sept.

White May to July

Blue, Ac.

Division

Division and seeds
Cuttings and seeds
Division and seeds

Cuttings & division

Feb. and March Oftsets and seeds

♦Phlox setacea Brightness
*P. s. Nelsoni

6
6
Primula marginata 6

6

Sun or shade Loam ....

Sun or partial Sandy loam

shade and grit

Sun Sandy loam

Shade or Sandy loam
partial sun

Sun Loam & sand

Blue May to Sept

White Jan. and Feb.

Blue May to July

Y'ellow June to Oct.. .

White or rose June and July

P. pubescens alba (nivalis of

gardens)
Ramondia Natali?e

Saxifraga Aizoon Portfe

Any Sandy loam

and grit

Deep rose

White

Blue lilac

6

6

S. burseriana 6

S. lantoscana 12

S. primulseoides 6

S. Wallacei

Sedum obtusatum

Sempervivum arachnoideum
Shortia galaoifolia

Deep shade . .

Sun or shade

Sun

Partial shade

Moist peaty

loam
Sandy loam
and grit

4 Sun . . ., Sandy loam

6 Shade

Silene Schafta

Synthiris reniformis .

Loam and

peat
Sandy loam
liOam ....

April to June

Feb.' to May

White March to May

Blue-purple June and July

White May and June

,, Jan. to March

,, May and Jmie

Rosy pink .. ,, ■■

White

Y'ellow June to Sept.

Rose June to Aug.

White & pink

•Tunica Saxifraga
•Veronica rupestris

Sun or shade
Sun or partial

shade

Sun Sandy loam

Sim or partial ,,

shade

• Trailing.

Rosy pink
Blue

Feb. to May

Rosy white May to Sept.
Blue June and July

Seeds and divi:^ion
Offsets and seeds
Cuttings or division

Cuttings
Division or seeds

Cuttings A division

Division and seeds

Division

Seeds and division

Division

Division & cuttings
Division or cuttings
Division

Seed

Seed and division

S. Arnott. Dumfries,

116

THE GAKUEN.

[March i, 1913.

HOT WAT ER AS
I NSECTICI DE.

A N

OF all insecticides, water is the cheapest
i and, heated, is cleanly and effec-
I tive. The summer before last the
' drought brought red spider on
Apple trees, Gooseberries and
other plants, and before the end
of the season Vine leaves near the top venti-
lators were slightly affected. Last year it
appeared on the same parts, and spread in a few
days down the Vines. These were sprayed twice
with perfectly clear water heated to about i8o°, and
this killed all the spider. " How about the fruit ? "
it may be asked. Provided the water is clean,
no marks are left on the fruit, except here and there
on the tip of an odd berry, and, if the foliage is
clean, not even that. I have several times recom-
mended washing bug-infested Vines with hot water.
Some have tried it ; others have been afraid to,
though nothing is more effective for Vines in leaf.
With the addition of a 3-mch potful of extract of
Quassia to four gallons of lukewarm, not hot, water,
it is a certain remedy for red spider on Peaches,
and for both Vines and Peaches it is important to
remember not to use strong insecticides. For
aphis on Roses I hke nothing better than soapsuds,
into which some parafiin is churned with a syringe.
A pint will do for a tubful, and this need not be
applied hot.

I have once or twice had to deal with Camellias,
Hoyas, Ixoras, Stephanotis, Crotons and other
tough-leaved plants, which were filthy, not only
with insects, but with dirt all over the leaves.
In one case a man was kept constantly employed
in the endeavour to wash the leaves of Camellias
with a sponge and water, but he never seemed to
make any progress. A thorough washing through
an engine with very hot water, rendered more
effective with soft soap in solution, brought off the
dirt in scales, and, while moist, the rest was rapidly
removed with a sponge. A proprietary wash I
have found most effectual in destroying scale is
Bentley's Insecticide. Sprayed, it goes a long
way ; but it is no use whatever spraying or washing
with this or any other liquid unless enough is
used to reach every part.

For destroying thrips, red spider and mealy
bug on the majority of plants, nicotme vaporised
is undoubtedly the best uisecticide we have. It
injures few plants, even when used much stronger
than the several brands on the market are recom-
mended to be used. The vapour finds its way
where a liquid insecticide cannot, and though
e.xpensive, if carefully used — taking its effectiveness
into consideration and the facility of its application
— it must be allowed to stand at the head of all
insect destroyers. What of hydrocyanic acid gas ?
It is true it is equally — perhaps in some cases more —
destructive, but there is always a risk attending
its use. Neither this nor nicotine can be used for
Vines and Peaches in leaf unless at great risk to
the foliage. Paraffin ;? also a dangerous material
to employ unless one is thoroughly acquainted
with the proper proportions to use, and usually,
for Vines and Peaches, it should be dispensed with.
I have found it most useful for destroymg ants
in vineries. The method of using it is as
follows : A pan is three parts filled with boiling
water, and the paraffin added and stirred through
the water till it is equally hot. All surfaces on
which ants are found are then sprayed with the
pure paraffin which floats on the top of the hot
water, a few applications destroying. strong colonies

of these destructive insects. An application of the
same kind, applied while the trees are at rest,
destroys American blight on Apple trees. Tobacco
powder should always be at hand to destroy insects
where circumstances render the application of
either a liquid or vapour difficult or impossible.
For Chrysanthemums in summer and for Carnations
in beds, a pinch of this material is of very real
value, applied at the right moment. I have found
it very useful, too, for Eucharis mite, applied above
the bulbs, moisture soaking it downi between the
scales. Last autumn our Cyclamen were severely
attacked with a mite on the foliage and extended
to the buds. Besides vaporising with nicotine,
the buds have been repeatedly dusted with Tobacco
powder, and except a few distorted blooms at the
beginning of the season, all the later ones have come
perfect.

After all, hand sponging cannot be entirely dis-
pensed with. If there are no insects, there is still
a certain amount of dirt that gathers on the leaves,
and hand washing is therefore imperative. It is
one of the curious facts connected with practical
gardening that one finds almost all young men
proceed in the same manner. They dip their dirty
sponges into the insecticide or wash, and soon render
it as filthy as, or more so than, the plants operated
on. Now, the way to proceed is to have a somewhat
large vessel with clean water, into which to wash
the dirty sponge thoroughly every time before
dipping it into the insecticide, and a sponge not
too wet cleanses better than a saturated one. The
insecticide, if the washing is done in this way,
never becomes dirty. Some plants can be most
effectively cleansed by spraying the leaves lightly
over, then rubbed over with a large sponge or soft
cloth, the process of cleaning these when soiled
being the same as that just noted. Many house
plants on which dust settles are best kept clean
by rubbing frequently with a dry cloth.

R. P. Bkotherston.

CULTURAL HINTS ON NEW
AND RARE PLANTS.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

Cornus Nuttallii. — American pubhcations de-
scribe this Dogwood as one of the most beautiful
objects in the forests of Western North America,
for not only are the inflorescences conspicuous
by reason of the six large, cream-coloured bracts
which surround each head of flowers, but the foliage
colours brilliantly in the autumn. To succeed
with it in this country it is necessary to provide
a sunny position in deep, well-drained, loamy soil.

Tricuspidaria dependens, an evergreen shrub
with pendulous white flowers which have delicately-
fringed petals, forms an excellent subject for a
wall. Planted in light, loamy soil with an east,
west or south aspect, it may be expected to grow
rapidly and give little trouble, save an occasional
pruning. Cuttings root readily during the summer,
and form a good means of increase. It must not
be confused with the red-flowered T. lanceolata.
which is sometimes called T. dependens.

Decaisnea Fargesii is a bushy plant from

China, conspicuous on account of its long, pinnate
leaves, greenish yellow flowers, and violet, sausage-
shaped fruits. It may be expected to thrive in
the milder parts of the country if given a sheltered
position and light, well-drained, loamy soil.

Hamamelis mollis. — This is the best of the
Witch Hazels, for the flowers are larger, clearer

coloured and borne more freely than those of other
species. Although usually grown as a bush, it
may be made to assume a tree-like habit by
judicious pruning. The best results are obtamed
by planting it in light, loamy soil, into which a
little peat has been mixed.

Cotoneaster humitusa may be distinguished
from other Cotoneasters by its long, trailing branches,
which rise but an inch or so above the ground.
This peculiarity fits it well for planting about
rockwork or to cover an upturned tree butt, for
the branches take root wherever they come in con-
tact with a little soil, and spread rapidly over a
considerable area. Its evergreen leaves and red
fruits are its chief attractions.

Stachyurus praecox. — Although this eany-
flowering shrub has been known for many years,
it is rarely grown, yet when covered with its
pendulous catkins of yellow flowers in March it
is very attractive. It requires a light, well-drained
soil m an open position where the branches can
become thoroughly ripened in autumn.

BOOKS.

Crops and Methods for Soil Improvement.*—

Books on farming and gardening come thick and
fast, some dealing with particular plants, many
little better than recipe books, a few dealing with
principles. The present volume belongs to the
last group, and deals with the basis of all commercial
cultivation — the method of rnauitaming the fertihty
of the soil. It deals with large cultures, more for
the farm than the garden proper, but many of its
chapters will prove suggestive to the thoughtful
gardener. It preaches the gospel of lime in the
first place, and insists upon the need for lime m
aU ordinary cultures. We are continually meeting
with cases in which lime is deficient in the soil,
and the latter acid in consequence, the result being
poor growth of the more commonly-cultivated
crops and the encouragement of m^my of the
more common insect and fungus pests. Clear
accounts — and, indeed, the whole book is marked
by lucidity of expression — of the forms of lime,
the quantity to be applied and the time of appli-
cation follow the demonstration of its need, and
then the question of organic matter in soils
comes under discussion.

We would like to have seen a little more con-
cerning the use of green manures other than those
of a leguminous nature, but probably their use
is greater in the garden than on the farm, where
the land would otherwise be lying fallow for a
longer period than it does in the garden. In this
country gardens are likely to suffer considerably
from the increase of motor traction ; indeed,
the difficulty of obtaining stable manure is already
keenly felt in many districts, but green manuring
with such rapidly-growing plants as Mustard will
help very much to fill the gap caused by the shortage
of stable manure.

A chapter on the sources of the necessary nitrogen,
potash and phosphoric acid will also be of value
and interest to gudeners, while the discussion of
crop rotations will also be most suggestive to the .
grower of vegetables.

We cannot close this brief notice without a
further reference to the author's clear style and
the freedom of the book from unfamiliar technical
terms ; but the omission of an index is a drawback
not by any means compensated for by the full
table of contents at the commencement of the book.

• " Crops and Methods for Soil Improvement." By
Alva Agcc, M.S. Macmillan Company, New York.

m-^—-

GARDEN.

-5^=-'

^s:>$

No. 2155.— Vol. LXXVII.

March 8, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes of the Week

117

KosE Garden

COKRESPONDENCE

Some uncommon

The colour of China

Roses

Asters

118

The Cabbpge Uose

I2;i

Primula denticulata

118

Trees and Shrdbs

The flowering of

The double-flowered

fruit trees . .

tIK

Chinese Cherry . .

124

A noble Fern . . . .

11!)

Hybrid trees and

i^aehenalias, or Cape

shrubs

124

Cowslips

lii)

Gardening for Beginners

The Servian Spmcc

119

How to raise

Forthcoming events..

119

annuals

12ii

The Heath Garden

Gardening of the Week

Propagation of

For Southern gar-

Heaths . . . .

119

dens

128

Rock and Watek Garden

For Northern gar-

The '* mulching *' of

dens

12ti

alpines . . . .

120

Hints on Packing

Saxi f raga Gries-

Daffodhs for a

bachii

120

Show

127

FRUIT Garden

Winter Foliage for

The apple-sucker . .

121

Cutting

127

Flower Garden

Answers to Corre-

Lilium giganteum

spondents

in Cornwall

122

Flower garden

12f

A bold plant for the

Trees and shrubs . .

12K

water-side . .

122

Greenhouse

128

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

IliLDSTRATIONS.

.\ beautiful hardy Fern 119

A plant of Saxifraga Griesbacnii 120

The apple-sucker 121

A beautiful bed of Lilium giganteum 122

Senecio Clivorum at Gonnersbury House, A'-tnii , . 12:J

A beautiful spring-flowering tree 124

How to raise annuals 12.')

A useful box packed with Narcissi 127

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

Th'T Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
biU he will not be responsible lor their safe return. All
reasonable care, houjever, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As re'jards photographs, ij payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated vHth.

The Editor will not be responsible foi the return of artistit
or literary contrilnUions which he may not be able to use. ana
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, T'lristncl: fit-eel. Cnrent Oarden ll'.C.

New President of the Royal Horticultural

Society. — We understand that rield-Marshal Lord
Grenfell of Kilvey, G.C.B., G.C.M.G.. F.S.A., Las
been invited to become President of tlie Royal
Horticultural Society in place of Sir Trevor
Lawrence, Bart., who, as we stated in'our^issue
of February 15, feels compelled to relinquish the
position on account of failing health. We believe
that Lord Grenlell is likely to accept the invitation.

The Caucasian Scabious. — Before the planting
season is over, we would draw attention to this
useful and beautiful herbaceous plant. For cut-
ting^purposes during the late summer and autumn
months it is ideal, the long, slender stems, with their
delicately-poised, pale blue flowers, lending them-
selves well to artistic arrangement. Given good
soil in>an open position, it is not at all a diiScult
plant to grow, and it can be bought cheaply under
the name of Scabiosa caucasica.

Black Currants Reverting to Wild Type.—

When looking over a large plantation of well-
grown Black Currants in the Malvern district
a few days ago, the owner told us that he was
considerably troubled by bushes reverting to a
useless or almost wild type. This reversion had
reached rather serious dimensions, and the only
remedy was to dig out such bushes and plant others
in their stead. Perhaps growers in other districts
can give us their experiences with this fruit.

The Golden Valerian in Spring. — The golden-
leaved Valerian, V'aleriana Phu aurea, is not
much seen nowadays, but it is usefid in spring
because of its foliage effect. It is much brighter
at that season than later, and many years ago
one was much struck with the effect it made in
a long herbaceous border, where it was associated
with Orobus vemus, then in bloom, and with the
yoimg growths of the HemerocaUises, Trades-
cantias and Paonias. There the golden leaves
of the Valeriana made a really tine display.

Growing Sphagnum Moss for Orchids. — It is
obvious that sphagnum moss which can be pro-
cured fresh must possess far better quahties than
that sent out for sale after having been kept in
sacks for at least several weeks. Where Orchid-
growers have a shallow depression which will hold
water, says a writer in the current issue of " The
Orchid Review," it is quite easy to grow one's
own sphagnum. It does not require running
water, but likes to have it standing at an even
height, if possible a few inches below the level of
some Wniow clumps, around which it will grow
in the greatest profusion. It seems to like shade,
direct sunshine on it during the summer months
turning it yellow ; but, providing water is kept
round it, not much harm will be done. The plant-
ing of a new bed in the first instance is by no means
difficult, and if a genial autumn follows, an
astonishing amount of growth is quickly made.

Silver-Leaf Disease of Plums.— This fungus
is spreading rapidly in many of the fruit-growing
districts in this country, and is causmg serious
loss among Plum trees, the variety Victoria seeming
to be the most susceptible to its ravages. It is
difficult to understand how it is spreading so
rapidly where trees are well tended, because
scientists tell us that spores can only be produced
on dead wood. Is it possible that some stage
of its hfe-history has been overlooked ? Its
presence in a tree is manifested by the foliage
taking on a silvery grey tint.

Repotting Room Ferns. — Towards the end of
March and during the early days of .-Vpril is the
best time of the whole year for repotting Ferns
that are grown in the dwelling-house. Just at
that time root growth is becoming very active,
and the new soil is quickly filled with roots and
stagnation thus avoided. Good sod for ordinary
kinds of Ferns is composed of well-decayed, fibrous
turf two parts, one part sweet leaf-soil or coarse
peat, and half a part of coarse sand or grit. The
loam should be puUed into pieces about the size
of pigeons' eggs, and ought to be kept in a warm
place for a day or two before repotting. The new
soil must be made quite firm when repotting, and
thorough drainage and cleanliness of the new
pots are essential.

The Tenerlffe Broom. — A specimen of Cytisus
proliferus, the Teneriffe Broom, is at the present
time an important feature in the Himalayan House
at Kew. Planted out in one of the borders, the
growths are trained to, and clothe, one of the several
pillars of this house to a height exceeding r2 feet.
A native of Teneriffe, Cytisus proliferus is occasion-
ally seen thriving well outside in the warmer parts
of the South and West. Those who have bare
pillars and walls to furnish in large conservatories
will find this Broom a most useful climber. Flower-
ing in early spring, the plants respond to liberal
pruning after flowering, making young growths
up to 3 feet or more in length, which hang grace-
fully from the pillars wreathed in creamy white
blossoms disposed among the ternate leaves.

An Evergreen Bush Honeysuckle.— Under
the name of Lonicera nitida a valuable evergreen
Honeysuckle of recent introduction from Western
China bids fair to become permanently estabhshed
in our gardens. Introduced by Messrs. J. Veitch
and Sons, Chelsea, through their collector Mr.
E. H. Wilson, it has ahready received an award
of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society.
Lonicera nitida forms a neat, compact bush, with
small, upright shoots clothed with httle Box-like
leaves, their general appearance suggesting a
small-leaved evergreen Veronica rather than a
bush Honeysuckle. It roots readily from cuttings,
and, growing freely in most soils, L. nitida should
soon be widely grown in borders and as a specimen
for the rock garden. In Western Chma the bushes
are said to ultimately attain a height of about
SIX feet ; the flowers are creamy white and fragrant.

118

THE GARDEN.

[March 8, 19I3.

CORflESPONDENCE.

f{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Crocus candidus sulphureus. — A yellow variety

nf the charming Crocus candidus seems rather a
novelty, but we have it in the variety sulphureus,
which I owe to the kindness of Mr. E. A. Bowles.
It is a handsome Crocus of good size and with
plenty of substance. It is hardly properly called
sulphureus, as with me, at least, the colouring is
considerably deeper than sulphur. It is not only
pretty in itself, but is interesting as showing the
great range in colouring which exists among the
Crocus species and their varieties. — S. Arnott.

A Good Dwarf Shrub. — I was particularly
struck last summer with the beauty of Genista
tinctoria fiore pleno, a compact and dwarf-growing
shrub, which bore its yellow flowers in the greatest
profusion. It grows about twelve inches high and
appears to thrive in almost any soil or situation,
for I saw it both on the rockery and in a border
of herbaceous subjects where the soil was quite
a heavy loam. It is undoubtedly a very attractive
and bright little plant, which is free-growing,
and will thus form a nice spreading patch in a short
time. There is also a single form of G. tinctoria,
but I should certainly select the double variety. — S.

The Colour of China Asters. — Is there any
hope that seedsmen may be persuaded to name
correctly in their catalogues the colours of the
.\sters they offer ? At present nothing could be
more foolish, misleading and exaggerating. When
they are fairly correct as regards other flowers,
why do they go so much astray when. describing
.Asters ? I have suffered in silence, hoping against
hope year after year that by selecting carefully (!)
named colours, such as blush pink or royal purple,
my garden might not be wrecked on the magenta
rocks. Last year I made one more attempt.
I chose white streaked faint lavender, and white
streaked light flesh. How I tended and cared for
the little' seedlings and watched their growth,
and with what joyful expectancy I waited for the
first flowers ! Alas ! I had border after border
of Asters white with hard bands of violent purply
or pinky magenta. The effect was appalling.
If I order a pink coat from my tailor and he sends
me a magenta one, I can return it. Why could
I not return my nightmare Asters ? The whole
thing is extremely vexatious. I can see no reason
why proper colour names cannot be given to
.\sters as to other flowers. Is it that seed does
not come true, or that seedsmen are colour-blind ?
— E. M. Hadow.

The Tiger Lily in Pots. — The Lily chat that

we have had in The Garden of late has been
particularly interesting to lovers of this beautiful,
but in some cases erratic, class of plants. Refer-
ence to the forms of the Tiger Lily recalls the fact
that all the varieties are not of equal value for
growing in pots, a mode of culture which for
business reasons I was forced to adopt a few years
ago. It was very necessary to have a group of
Tiger Lilies in flower at about their normal period
of blooming, but they were required to be estab-
lished in pots. For this method of treatment' the
variety splendens proved much superior to any
others. As I have seen difierent forms bearing
■.he varietal name of splendens, it may be as well
•o say that the one referred to is that grown by
t le Dutch for very many years, sometimes as
splendens and sometimes as Leopoldii. It differs
frciin the type in several particulars, for the lower

part ct the stem is quite smootli and almost black ;
next, the leaves are fewer in number, but broader
and of a deeper green, while the flowers are larger,
brighter in colour and with fewer spots. These are,
however, larger than in the other forms. Under
pot culture the variety splendens retains its leaves
very much better than any of the others, the very
woolly-leaved Fortune! being, under this mode of
treatment, liable to get bare at the base. The
variety flore plena, though the best example of
a double Lily that we have, is not to my liking. —
H. P.

The Red Cup Moss. — The pretty scarlet fungus
known popularly as Red Cup Moss, the botanical
name of which is Peziza coccinea, is one of the
loveliest of the common objects of a cormtry walk
in the winter-time. It may now and again be found
in the hedgerow, but never in quantity, for growing
as it does on rotten wood, it is only where this
occurs in abundance that it is at all common,
and the most likely spot to find it is in an old wood
or spinney where the ground is moist. In one
place, close to the road, where an old plantation
is never touched from year to year, it is to be found
annually m the winter-time in great numbers on
the damp ground, the little red cups glowing on
the dark wood in dozens. Few, perhaps, are aware
what a delightful and lasting indoor decoration
this Red Cup Moss will provide if it be only artistic-
ally arranged. The scarlet fungi should be carefully
taken up, each with the little piece of wood to which
it is attached adhering to it, and cautiously carried
home in a basket. A shallow dish or china 'saucer
should be obtained and partially filled with
water. Sufficient fresh Moss should be placed in
the saucer to fill it, this being of a rough and
not close-growing description, the so-called Fern
Moss, a Hypnum, being the prettiest that can be
procured. A couple of dozen fungi, if the saucer
is large enough, these ranging in size from half an
inch to 2 mches across, will afford a charming and
uncommon decoration for the living-room during
the depth of the winter, and will retain their
colour and freshness for a month or more. —
Wyndham Fitzherbert.

Primula denticulata. — I heartily agree with
your note in The Garde.n for February 15, page 77,
relative to the above and its variety cash-
meriana. The soil of my garden being very light,
I have found it difiicult to get a spot sufficiently
moist for the summer months in any border, yet
during the winter the wet has caused the crowns
of the plants to decay, and I shall have to start
with a fresh stock. Can you suggest any method
of cultivation which would obviate the loss of
such beautiful spring-flowering plants ? _ Could
thev be lifted in the autumn, placed in 5-inch
pots in a cold frame and flowered effectively
therein ? — Himalaya. [What is really needed is
that the plant be afforded some covering in imita-
tion of the deep snow covering of its native home.
For this we know of nothing better than a mound
of new Cocoanut fibre, which is at once light,
warm and protective. In conjunction therewith
the soil should be well drained, despite the fact
that the species is of a moisture-loving nature.
In winter it cannot utilise the moisture ; hence the
trouble. With the shelter of a wall and in light,
sandy soils heavily dressed with cow-manure,
we have grown this in Northern gardens to far
greater perfection than is usually attained by
treating it as a bog plant. Hence you might try
lighter soils and afford the above covering for some
while, potting up others in September and giving
them cold-franv treatirieiit. We imagine you will

get the finer heads of flowers from the undisturbed
plants. The plants should be so covered up while
perfectly dry early in November. The covering
should be cone-shaped to throw off wet. At the
end of February it should be removed. — Ed.]

An Unconunon Greenhouse Plant (Amphi-

COme Emodi). — This greenhouse plant is said
to succeed on the rockery if protection from
wet and severe frosts is afforded. It is,
however, usually seen as a pot subject, and
its bell-shaped, rose and orange flowers are pro-
duced from July to October. Overpotting must
be guarded against, and a compost of loam, leaf-
mould and sand will be found most suitable. At
the present time cuttings made from the young
shoots may be inserted in sandy soil and placed
in gentle heat, where they, will soon root, and if
judiciously potted on will form nice flowering
plants in a comparatively short time. Seed can
also be sown in well-drained pots or pans during
the months of March and April, and if arranged in
the greenhouse, germination will soon commence.
Amphicome Emodi belongs to the Natural Order
Bignoniacea;. It is rather dwarf in habit and
is of a perennial character. — S.
The Flowering of Fruit Trees.— No one can

help admiring the exquisite beauty of the white
and rose petalled branches of our fruit trees in
spring ; but they have another interesting phase
to which I would draw attention, and that is the
order in which they open their flowers. My obser-
vations extend over two successive years, but
those of last year only are given, while my notes
are somewhat restricted owing to the limited number
of varieties under my charge, and also to the fact
that both years 1 omitted to note several sorts of
Apples. It is my intention to make notes again
this season, when I hope to include the previously
omitted kinds. In each case the date given is
that upon which the first flowers opened. Jeffer-
son's Plum, March 24 ; Archduke Plum, March 27 ;
Coe's Golden Drop Plum and May Duke Cherry
(both growing on a fence), March 31 ; Victoria
Plum, April 2 ; Czar Plum, Transparent Gage
Plum and Archduke Cherry, April 4 ; Empress
Eugenie Cherry, April 6 ; Pear Williams' Bon
Chretien, April 7 ; Pear Doyenne du Comice,
April 14; Morello Cherry, April 11; Catillac
Pear, April 15 ; Apples — Irish Peach, April 18 ;
Lord Suffield and James Grieve, April 21 ; Potts'
Seedling, April 22 ; King of the Pippins and
Flower of Kent, April 23 ; Worcester Pearmain
and Cellini, April 24 ; and Lane's Prince Albert,
April 25. A comparative perusal of the above
varieties and dates will disclose the fact that all
early varieties do not open their blossoms before
some of the late varieties begin to do so. . To the
writer, at least, this seems rather strange. One
would naturally think that the earliest fruits
to mature would be the first to hasten into blossom ;
but it is not so, apparently, with Apples and kindred
fruits. On the other hand, the varieties of Straw-
berries, Currants and Gooseberries do, so far as
I have been able to watch them, open in their order
of coming to maturity. Has any other reader
ever made like observations, or can anyone suggest
a reason for the above methods being followed ? 01
course, the actual dates on which the flowers open
each year will vary, depending chiefly upon four
factors, namely, the earlifiess or otherwise of the
spring, the warm or cold nature of the soil, whether
grown in the open or a shaded position, and early
or late pruning ; but these conditions would not
affect the order of varietal flowering in any givei>
garden. — C, Turner.

March 8, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

119

A Noble Fern. — I send yon a photograph of a
ViTv handsome Fern, Aspidium angularc acnti-
loliinn (the Soft Prirkly Shield Fern), grown in a
lie.intilul garden in Surrey, at Whitnioor House,
Sutton Park, near Guildford, belonging to Philip
Witham, Esq., where I often visit, and which garden
I helped to remake. The Fern now measures 6 feet
across and 3 feet 6 inches in height, and is quite
the finest specimen of the kind I ever saw. It was
originally growing on an old and badly-constructed
rockery close to the house, which was done away
with some six or seven years ago, and planted in
its present position by the edge ot a walk leading to
the tennis courts and herbaceous borders, in a
kind of semi-wild garden. The position and soil
evidently suit it, as it has more than trebled in
size, — C. M. Wni.sELFV, Wnhelcy, Slaffori.

Lachenalias, or Cape Cowslips.— I call these
.ilways my February flowers. Writing i[i the
e.irly days of the month, I am daily watching my
precious treasures coloiu'ing and opening. As
usual, the famous old Nelsoni and Rose Barton
lead the way, but some of the red edgers are just
showing, Ruby, Brightness and Phyllis Paul among
the number. This year my patience is being re-
warded in a handsome manner. I am about to
enjoy what their great high priest. Sir Frederick
Moore, has been doing for a long time — that is,
the gradual unfolding of a number ot my own
seedlings. In dwarf pots the best varieties look
splendid, and they are so good for bringing into the
dwelling-house, as they last a long time in bloom,
and if they are grown " coolly " the spikes need no
support. After my late awful attempt at classical
Latin, and profiting by " G. H. E.'s" wigging, I
am taking refuge in a more doggy style, and say
to those who want a flower of much quiet
beauty and of great interest, " Growienda est
Larhenalia." — J. Jacob.

The Servian Spruce. — .An interesting fa.t

about the Servian Spruce, Picea Omorica, is that,
though a native of Central Europe, no evidence of
its existence is recorded until 1875. It is a native
of the mountains of South-West Servia, Bosnia
and Montenegro, growing at an altitude of from
2,000 feet to 5,000 feet. Several trees raised from
seeds received from Belgrade in 1889 are bearing
cones at Kew. These are ij inches long, rather
less than half an inch in diameter at the broadest
part, and borne near the top of the tree. In its
native country the Servian Spruce varies from
50 feet to 100 feet in height. The largest trees in
this country are from 30 feet to 35 feet high.
Compared with the height of the tree, the branches
are short, giving the tree a pyramidal outline.
A large number of trees are growing at Kew in
varying stages from a couple of feet upwards,
the tallest tree, twenty-four years old. being about
thirty-two feet high. The behavioiir of these trees
suggests that, particularly considering the atmo-
sphere of Kew, Picea Omorica will be a valuabl?
decorative tree for extensive planting. It is one
of the flat-leaved Spruce Firs, its nearest allies
being P. ajanensis. P. hondoensis and P. sitchensis.
In some books the specific name is spelt P. Omorika.
—A. O.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

March 10. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Meeting.

March 11. — Surbiton Spring Show.

March 12. — North of England Society's Spring
Sliow at Bradford. East .Anglian Horticultural
Club's Meeting. Clevedon and District Spring
Bulb Show.

THE HEATH GARDEN.

PROPAGATION OF HEATHS.

{Continued from page no.)

PKOP.\G.A.TION is effected by seeds,
cuttings and layers, the former being
only practised in the raising of hybrids,
although self-sown plants of the com-
mon Ling are to be found in great
quantities on the hills and moors of
Britain. \ favourable seed-bed for these is, how-
ever, only fomid after a quantity of Heather has
been burned off and the ground rendered bare of
vegetation for a time. As is well known, where
large tracts of Heather are found on grazing land,
a portion is burned off annually to provide a
succession of fresh young shoots as food for sheep
and grouse, but when, for the want of sufficient
draught to enable the fire to consume the plants
rapidly and pass on before the heat has had time
to destroy the roots, the slow combustion tiiay
destroy all life and render it necessary to procure

always a few plants in reserve. These should
be .planted or laid on their sides with the shoots
buried up to within a few inches of the tips ; when
left thus for a year or eighteen months, fresh roots
will have been produced from the hard stems,
and young plants or tufts of a convenient size
for replanting will be easily secured. In replanting
the beds with young plants it will not be necessary
to entirely renew the soil ; the addition of some
well-decomposed manure will generally be found
sufficient, well mi.xing it with the compost. Top-
dressing the beds annually with stable manure
is found of great advantage to the plants ; this
should be secured, if possible, where the stalls or
boxes have been bedded down with raoss-Iitter.
\ little of the material taken fresh from the stable
and shaken among the plants during their season
of growth will well repay the trouble by assisting
the production of strong, healthy growth and
abundance of flowers.

Selection of Varieties. — In making a selection
of varieties, one must be guided by the extent

A BEAUTIFUL HARDY FERN, ASPIDIUM ANGULARE ACUTILOBUM, IN A SURREY

GARDEN.

a crop from self-sown seeds, the process is, however,
slow, and several years must elapse before it again
becomes good feeding ground.

Propagation from cuttings is also slow, but is a
successful enough method if carried out with
sufficient care. The cuttings should be selected
from half-ripened shoots of the current year's
growth and placed around the edges of pots filled
with a sandy compost. .After receiving a good
soaking of water they should be placed m a cold
frame or under a bell-glass ; secure from frost
until rooted.

Layering. — The most satisfactory method, how-
ever, of increasing the stock of hardy Heaths is
by layering, as this can be done in the open, unless
where the soil is unsuitable, in which case a cold
frame may be utilised, filling it to sufficient depth
with a light, sandy compost.

As all the Ericas are liable after a few years'
occupation of the beds to become leggy or straggling,
replanting with fresh dwarf plants becomes necessary,
and for this purpose it is a good plan to have

of groimd to be treated, by the climate, and whether
spring or autumn flowering varieties are most
desired. The most interesting selection, however,
would be one in which all varieties are represented
and planted with a view to having the beds flowering
in succession during the greater part of the year.
Where a number of beds can be convenienth-
arranged, each should be planted with varieties
flowering about the same time, in preference to
having them filled with many sorts flowering at
different periods. The grouping of colours should
also be carefully studied along with their com-
parative heights, commencing with those that
flower early in the year. A \31ge bed might be
devoted to Erica multiflora, E. codonodes, E.
carnea or herbacea and its varieties, .\rborea.
under favourable circumstances, wdl grow to' a
height of from 4 feet to 6 feet, and, indeed, "
sometimes attains to the dimensions of a small
tree. This plant is said to provide the wood from
which the so-called Briar-root pipes are made,
and is largely imported from I'^raiur- to this country

120

THE GARDEN.

[March 8, 1913.

for that purpose. It may form the central figure
of a large bed ; the flowers for the most part are
white, although several varieties in different colours
are recorded. E. lusitanica or codonodes, occa-
sionally known as E. polytrichifolia, closely
allied to E. arborea, is also a tall grower, reaching
a height of 4 feet ; this is a most beautiful variety,
with white flowers borne very profusely, and having
foUage of a pleasing soft green. E. multiflora is,
perhaps, the earliest to show flower, producing
its blossoms of a pale red colour sometimes in the
last weeks of December, if the weather at that time
is at all favourable. Its average height is about
two feet, and is well adapted for planting between
the first two named and the dwarf varieties of
E. carnea with which we would finish the planting
of the'early bed. E. camea forms dense tufts of
pinkJ flowers, and rarely exceeds a height of 6 inches
It is one of the freest, both in growth and
flowet, of the whole genus, and should be included
iu every collection. E. c. alba, often catalogued
under the name of E. herbacea, is of slightly dwarfer

compact grower bearing red flowers ; this variety
requires somewhat closer planting than the others
to enable it to cover the ground properly and
avoid a certain stiffness in form that it assumes
when given too much room. E. m. hybrida has
somewhat larger and brighter individual flowers
on shorter stems, and usually flowers were early,
particularly in the southern counties. E. m.
rubra might be described as a deep pink : E. m.
nana and E. m. stricta both being red. The first four
named should serve for most purposes, except where
a very full collection is desired. T. Wilson.

The Gardens, Glamis Castle, N.B.
[To he coii/iitued.)

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

THE "MULCHING" OF ALPINES.

In many parts of this country alpine flowers
suffer greatly from the want of moisture at

A PLANT OF SAXIFRAGA GRIESB.\CHII WITH FIVE FLOWER-SPIKES.

dimensions than the former, but otherwise an exact
counterpart in all but the colour of the flowers,
which are white. When grown in quantity these
ovely little Heaths provide some of the earliest
forage for bees, and together with the tall varieties,
already named, give a display during the first three
months of the year ; but before they have quite
gone out of flower other varieties are rapidly coming
forward. Diu'ing the period from March to May,
E. mediterranea in numerous colours will serve
to keep up the succession, and several beds may be
devoted to this section. The type grows almost
three feet high, and has flowers of a pleasing shade
of red, and should be planted towards the centre of
the bed or well back from the margin of the
border ; the others, being mostly of a uniform
height of from 9 inches to 12 inches, according
to the suitability of the soil and climate, may
be disposed m patches or blocks to fill up the
beds according to the ideas of the planter.
E. m. glauca is distinct in habit, being a very

of something which will not only ward off the
scorching winds, but will serve as a non-conductor
and keep the plant free from excessive changes
of temperature, and will at the same time retain
moisture. If we can attain tfiis object, and also
prevent the plant from receiving injury from
excessive rains in winter, we shall overcome many
of our greatest difficulties in the cultivation of
certain flowers.

The moraine is almost magical in its effects in
this direction, but it is not everyone who can have
one, although small and simple moraines can be
constructed at very little expense. We can,
however, give nearly all the benefits of the moraine
by mulching our plants with small chips or gravel,
or, almost as well, with some rough grit. It is
many years since the writer learned from actual
trial how beneficial a thing was a thick mulch
of the rougher grit from the seashore close to where
he lived. With i inch or 2 inches of this about
the plants, it was wonderful to see the benefits
which resulted. Troublesome subjects were mucli
easier to grow, and many easy things were still
easier to accommodate, when so mulched with this
material. Small chips, such as are now so much
employed on roads, are every whit as good, and
the mulching may be from i inch to 3 inches or
even 4 inches in height. An excellent mulch is
composed of a combination of the chips and the
grit, and its application is followed in many cases
by results which are perfectly surprising. Plants
which suffer from the drying spring winds art-
protected at the roots by this material, with its
" layer " of air between the stones. Any rain
which falls, or any water artificially supplied,
runs freely through the mulch and is conserved
when it reaches the soil. In times when there is
an over-supply of moisture, the parts of the plant
which are most liable to rot off are saved by the
dry chips about them ; and all those which require
glass protection, i.e., such subjects as some of the
silky Androsaces and other things with woolly
or very hairy foliage are much benefitted.

This mulchuig with chips or gravel may be
applied at any time, and in the case of low-growing,
carpeting subjects it is wise to add it gradually, fn
as to allow the plants time to grow up among the
mulching material, and not to smother them by ton
thick a layer at once. This "mulching" is simplicity
itself, but it is most efficacious. Old .\lpinist.

the roots diu'ing their growuig season, and,
on the other hand, from too much surface
wet at times when they should be at rest.
In spring, especially when the parching
" March" winds (which, of course, do not always
come in the month which gives them their name)
lick up every drop of moisture and leave the plants
thirsting for the genial rains of the spring, many of
these alpine flowers suffer enormously. Often
carelessly planted and in uncongenial conditions,
they miss the moisture supplied at home from the
melting snows, and, alike above and below ground,
have much suffering and trial to endure. It is
easy to realise the vast difference between the
plant growing in the moist soil of the moimtain-side
with its roots constantly supplied by the melting
snow, and the same flower on a dry rockery subjected
to the parching winds of some of our springs.

This condition may be mitigated by the roots
being snugly tucked away under or between stones,
but there is nothing so good as a thick " mulcting "

SAXIFRAGA GRIESBACHII.

This is a plant all alpine specialists are anxious to
grow well, but it rarely thrives up to one's expecta-
tions in the gardens of this country. It was intro-
duced to cultivation ten years ago, when it received
a first-class certificate from the Royal Horticul-
tural Societv and created quite asensation among the
rock gardening community. It was at first thought
likely to become a popular subject for the rock
garden, but many have found to their disappoint-
ment that such is not the case. Now and then,
however, one alights upon a garden where it
succeeds fairly well. Its greatest enemy is damp,
and it appears to give the best results when grown
upon a small cone of stones in a sunny position.
The plant illustrated is a particularly good specimen,
carrying no fewer than five healthy inflorescences.
Each rosette develops into a flower-spike, the
calyces and flowers being bright crimson, and,
after flowering, young rosettes appear at the base
of the flowered crown. Saxifraga Griesbachii is
a native of the mountams of Albania and Mace-
donia, and is one of those cherished plants requiring
more than ordinary care.

March 8, 1913.]

THE GAKDEN.

121

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

How

THE APPLE-SUCKER.

Fruit Trees are Attacked : Brief

LlFE-HlSTORV OF THE PeST.

The apple-sucker (Psylla mali) is certainly one of
the most destructive pests of the orchard. The par-
ticular object of its
attack is the bud,
which it enters imme-
diately the awaken-
ing life in spring
sufficiently expands
the protecting scale
leaves to enable it
to crawl inside. At
this period the tiny
creature — a flat, dirty
yellow larva(A) with
bright red eyes — has
just hatched out from
the egg, being
one of hun-
dreds of others
laid the pre-
vious autumn
on the young
shoots and fruit-spurs .if the tree. Once
inside the bud, it feeds by stabbmg the
delicate tissues, and by suction of the
nutritive juices of the young leaves seriously
interferes with their normal development.
Leaves so attacked (especially if the larva>
arf numerous) partially lose their healthv
green colour, and become pale, shrunken and
curled. The vitality of the leaves is lowered,
hence their power to manufacture starch is
reduced, and this in turn lessens nutrition
and weakens the seasonal growth. But
bad as this is, it is not by any means the end of
the trouble. For so soon as the flowers begin to
push out from the bud, the larva are able to
attack the soft, sappy tissues of the lengthening

peduncles {or flower-st^dks) and to so
injure them that they fail to transmit
the necessary food and water, and
then, of course, the blossoms wither
and die and all chance of fruit is gone
for the season. The dead flower-trusses
win hang on to the spurs for a long
time, and a very large number of gar-
deners wrongly attribute the damage
to late spring frosts, and thus fail
entirely to recognise the presence of
these dreadfully destructive little
pests. The rest of their life-story is
soon told. After two or three moults
the larvae gradually pass into the
nymph stage(B) ; they grow a little
bigger, their colour changes to green,
and wings gradually develop, until finally, in
late May or early June, they become transformed
into first green and then variegated winged
adults, from one -tenth to one -eighth of an

LARVA OF PSYLL.A. (ENLARGED
EIGHT TIMES).

.NYMPH OF PSVLLA (E.VLARGED
EIGHT TIMES).

RUPTURED EGG -CASE OF

PSYLLA LARVA ESCAPED

(E.SLARGED TWENTY-FIVE

TIMES).

THE UTXr.ED OR ADULT PSVLLA (E.VLARGED TEN TIMES).

SPURRED SHOOT OF APPLE TREE I.V WINTER.
SHOWIN'G ATTACHED EGC.S OF PSVLLA.

inch in length. In this stage of their existence
they are apparently harmless. Towards the middle
of September and until about the beginning of
November the females begin to lay their eggs,
selecting for this purpose the hairy surfaces of the
youngest twigs, the leaf-scars round the bases
of the lateral buds, and particularly the rough sur-
faces of the fruiting spurs. The eggs are minute,
but, still, they can be easily seen if searched
for. They are oval in form and securely fastened
to the twig by means of a glue-like material.
Treatment of Trees to Prevent Attack.— The

aim rjf the fruit-grower in his treatment of trees
attacked by Psylla must be mainly, if not entirely,
directed to prevention of entry to the bud, for the
reason that once the larvae gain an entrance, there
is considerably less chance of arresting the damage
or otherwise effecting a cure. Attempts should,
therefore, be made to destroy the eggs, or to at
least prevent the escape of the young larvse from
the shells. There is a real difficulty, however, in
this. The shells that serve as a protection to the
otherwise exposed ova are of a peculiar horny
nature, and only a strongly corrosive wash can
penetrate them ; and a solution of sufficiently
effective strength is just as likely to damage the
tissues of the tree as to destroy the eggs. There
seem to be good grounds for the belief that the
method ori.ginally advocated by Mr. Hammond
(whose extensive Essex experience as a fruit-
grower is well known) is the best course to take in
grapphng with the difficulty. Mr. Hammond's
wash was a solution of a mixture of quicklime
and salt, made as follows : Slake half a hundred-
w^eight of freshly-biirni lime in a small quantity
of water. Then add it to loo gallons of water.

Stir well and strain off to separate all particles of
grit. To this thick lime-wash add jolb. of dissolved
salt and thoroughly mix. Theobald recommends
the addition of from 2lb. to jlb. of \vater-glas»
to this solution, explauiing that by so doing
the adhesive power of the wash is usefully
increased. In spraying, the object in view is
to thoroughly cover the eggs with a lime-salt
paste, and so increase the difficulty of the
newly-hatched larv^ to escape. A special
nozzle is almost essential in spraj'ing this
rather thick fluid, as clogging is frequent
during the operation. The special form of
nozzle known as the " Seneca " has been
recommended, as it is provided with an
arrangement for rapidly clearing the aperture
without unscrewing the nozzle ; but other
types to meet such cases are now on the
market.

This is the principal method of preven-
tion, but there are others that may be
adopted as supplementary in severe cases.
For example, Mr. Pickering recommends that
the above work might be usefully followed by
spraying with a decoction of Tobacco at the
time of the bursting of the buds. The object
of this particular spray is to kill any larvse that
succeeded in escaping, before they have time to
reach the young flowers. This, if successful, will
save the fruit. The strength of decoction suggested
is that of two parts of strong Tobacco in a hundred
parts of water. Suitable nicotine washes for the
purpose can,

however, be -^^

readily ob-
tained f r o ni
reputable
vendors of in-
secticides. It
will be safest
and best for
amateur fruit-
gro wer s to
take this
latter course.
C o 1 1 i n g e
strongly
reco m m e nds
spraying the
trees with a
paraffin emul-
sion in the
autumn, when
the winged ^^ _ _ _••; ;.

females are

h o v e r i n <» shoots of apple tree in' spring
•^ with newly -hatched- out

among the larv.e of psylla waiting

branches and for buds to open.

122

THE GAKDEN.

[March 8, 1913.

•engaged in egg - laying, and in large orchards
the practice has much te commend it. An
attempt at the eradication of this ruthless enemy
of Apples is a work that ought to be at once
undertaken through the co-operation of all gardeners
and fruit-growers in the country. Unlike most
other members of the aphis family, its only known
food plant is the Apple, This fact gives an enor-
mous initial advantage to the exterminator. Keep
the insects off the Apple trees in a sufficiently wide
area, and they will become extinct by starvation
in a generation or two within that area. The
difficulty, of course, in all such troubles is to secure
effective f^imultaneous action. D. Houston.

[The illustrations used in connection with the
foregoing article are after Theobald, from blocks
kindly lent to us by Irish Gardening,.]

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

LILIUM GIGANTEUM IN CORNWALL.

THE accompanying illustration represents
the best bed of this noble Lily that we
have ever seen. Good individual plants
are not uncommon, but it is seldom that
a whole colony can be induced to
flower at one time. The illustration
is from a photograph kindly sent us by Major

SWRET PEA NOTES.

A QUESTION which is perplexing many lovers of
Sweet Peas is whether or not their favourites are
losing ground in general esteem. The streak
disease has been so prevalent and so widespread
that many people are becoming disheartened,
and it will not need many additional failures to
cause them to exclude the plant from their gardens,
as far as the production of exhibition blooms is
concerned. Happily, when plants are grown to
yield blossoms for cutting, the plants do not suffer
to nearly the same degree as those more highly
cultivated with a view to big blooms on long
stems, while the old-fashioned, smooth varieties
certainly appear to enjoy immunity in large measure,
presumably because they are of stronger constitution.

.\ further fault that tells against the modern
race is the lack of perfume ; but perhaps some
raisers will spare time from their Mendelian studies
to remember the old tragrance which was so pene-
trating and yet so delightful, and will endeavour
to find us fresh colours in which it is present in
full measure. Given this and healthy plants,
the Sweet Pea can never die.

This is the great month for outdoor sowing,
and notwithstanding the thousands of seeds sown
indoors in the autumn and spring, far larger
quantities are sown out of doors in March and
April. Endeavours have been made to persuade

is no doubt that the results will be sufficiently good
to admirably repay the efforts made.

If the chosen position has not been dug since
it was originally prepared and manured, forking
over to a depth of lo inches or so must be done at
once, as time for settlement must elapse before
the seeds can be satisfactorily sown. Where it
has been impossible to dig and manure the ground
earlier, do the work instantly, and tread sandy
soils hard down prior to seed distribution. In all
instances where flowers for the home are wanted,
it is unwise to use natural manure to excess, as
infinitely superior results follow upon moderate
dressings, with supplements of one of the several
valuable concentrated foods offered by advertisers
in the pages of The Garden. If the plants are to
be grown in rows, a distance of not less than 6 feet
should separate them.

For the reception of the seeds, shallow drills should
be cut, and the base ought to be made firm and
level. As a rule, a depth of 2 inches suffices ; but
in light soils a little deeper may be wise, while in
heavy land rather less is to be preferred. The
seeds must be set 3 inches apart, and later, when
the seedlings are through, thinning should commence
and continue until the plants are 6 inches or
9 inches asunder.

It is wise to provide protection against birds,
and there are excellent devices on the market,
or guards of wood and string can be
made at home. Slugs, too, wUl demand
a toll unless they are kept in check,
and for the purpose frequent dustings
with either old soot or lime are
reliable ; but the frequency of dressing
must be allowed to vary with the
weather, more applications being
wanted in wet than in dry weather.
Constant pricking over of the surface
is also most advantageous in checking
the ravages of the slimy foe. Twiggy
sticks must be put to the plants before
they are 3 inches in height to prevent
the possibility of falling over. J. R.

A BEAUTIFUL BED OF LILIUM GIG.^XTEUM I.N .-^ COKMSH G.^KDEX.

G. T. Williams of Manor House, Burton Joyce,
Nottingham, and the plants were grown in his
garden at Tredrea, Perranwell, Cornwall, in 1911,
which was his home at that time. Major Williams
informs us that there were twenty-three stems
bearing flowers in the bed at the time the photo-
graph was taken. We are much indebted to him
for allowing us the opportunity of recording and
illustrating such a beautiful bed. We hope other
readers who may have interesting photographs
wdl follow his example. By so doing a per-
manent record is made of many beautiful plants
that would otherwise be unnoticed by the majority
of flower-lovers.

growers that success is only possible when sowing
under glass is done, but this is absurd. Until
recent years the seeds were wholly sown where
the plants were to flower, and, when the space
in and between the lines was abundant, many
thousands of superb flowers on splendid stems were
produced ; and if they were not as big as those
seen at present-day shows, they were unsurpassable
for the decoration of the house and garden.
■Amateurs who love Sweet Peas must not have the
slightest hesitation about sowing in the garden.
If the soil has been thoroughly prepared in advance,
the seeds are thinly sown in suitable drills and the
plants are correctly managed throughout, there

A BOLD PLANT FOR THE
WATER-SIDE.

(Senecio Clivorum.)

Of the numerous plants introduced
from China within the last decade or so,
it is questionable whether any one of
them is more firmly established in the
gardens of this country than Senecio
Ciivorum. It is a large, coarse-growing
subject, and unless given ample room
is calculated to smother surrounding
\'egetation, and for this reason it is not
a desirable plant for the herbaceous
border. But for planting in bold groups
in a fairly open woodland, ^vild garden,
or, better still, by the water-side, it is quite well
adapted. 'In the illustration on page 123 it is seen in
association with the large-leaved Gunnera manicata,
growing by the lakeside in Gunnersbury House Gar-
dens, and this is a congenial liome for both of these
robust plants. Senecio Clivorum has roundly peltate
leaves 2 feet or more in diameter, the branching
inflorescence attaining some 4 feet or 5 feet high.
The flower-heads are numerous and large, the
colour being rich orange. The plant is quick to
develop, quite hardy, and of striking appearance
when in flower. It is interesting to note that it
belongs to a vast genus — probably the most exten-
sive in the vegetable kingdom.

J

March 8, 1913.]

iliJi GARDEN.

123

THE ROSE GARDEN.

SOME UNCOMMON ROSES.

THE many interesting notes that are
written about the newer varieties
prompts me to write a few lines
about those that are now all too
little grown in the rush for the
more modern sorts. Many of the older
-varieties have much to recommend them if they
are given even moderately good treatment. For
covering walls, those I name are really useful.
I do not claim for them that they are perpetual
flowering. From my knowledge of the
newer varieties, some of which are
claimed to be continuous flowering, I
^cannot yet see that any appreciable
advance has been made in that direc-
tion. Flower of Fairfield is said to be
an improvement on the older Crimson
Rambler, from which it is a seedling,
but I am afraid the continuity of flower
only extends to a few straggling late
shoots that develop flowers in due
<;ourse.

Gloire de Dijon is certainly per-
petual flowering as new growth is
made, but even this old favourite can-
not be termed a really good Rose for
covering a wall, as it has such a habit
of becoming bare at the base, also for
a considerable way up the wall.

Reve d'Or was introduced by
Pemet-Ducher in i86g, belonging to
the Noisette class, and for a south wall
it would be difficult to find a better
variety. In growth it is \-igorous,
producing a huge crop of deep yellow
blossoms which contrast well with the
dark - coloured foliage. Where so
many err in the cultivation of this
Rose is in not pruning it correctly.
Many persons leave the whole of
the last season's growth to flower,
and although a quantity of blooms
are produced in this manner, they
are Ul-shapen and poor in colour ;
growth does not appear to be vigorous enough to
develop the flowers perfectly. The correct method
of pruning when the wall is covered with main
branches is that all subsequent shoots should be
tlosely spurred in yearly, and from the new growth
will come the much-prized blooms in quantity
and qualitv.

Cloth of Gold (Coquereau, 1S43) is another
variety almost .ost sight of, and although this does
not flower so abundantly as the former, the individual
•quality is so extremely fine that one does not
notice the lack of quantity.

Celine Forestier (Leroy, 1S5S) on a south wall
is a charming Rose, the pale yellow blossoms being
almost extravagantly produced in clusters.

Lamarque (.Marechal, 1830) is one of the oldest
Roses we have belonging to the Noisette class,
and for freedom of flower it would be difficult to
find a superior. Out of doors the colour is very
pale lemon ; under glass, pure white. In growth
it is rampant, but the more the vigour the greater
quantity of flowers produced, and well into the
autumn, too. A system of close annual pruning
is desirable. This is a Rose that succeeds on its
o^vn roots.

Aimee Vibert (Vibert, 1828) is an almost ever-
green variety, quickly making a thick wall covering

and producing its pure white, sweetly-scented
flowers in huge quantities.

Ards Rover (A. Dickson, 1S9S) is a much better
climber than many persons seem to think, as it
is so seldom seen in this form of growth. The late
Mr. Flight of Twyford, Winchester, who was an
ardent rosarian, knew the virtue of this Rose as
a wall plant, and by closely spurring it in yearly
he had an abundant flower crop annually. For
richness of perfume and brilliant colouring this is a
charming Rose.

Bouquet d'Or (Pernet-Ducher, 1872) is an im-
provement on Gloire de Dijon, in that its flowers
are more freely produced and individually of

how long an established plant on a south or east
wall will continue to give huge crops of flower.
I know of one of the yellow type, over seventy years
old with a huge stem, which even now gives its
annual quota of flowers.

Swanmore. E. Molyneu.x.

THE CABBAGE ROSE.

Wh.^t a name to bestow upon such a fragrant
Rose ! Why Cabbage ? Its appellation is generally
accepted as derivative from " Cabuche " or
" Cabus," which are the Cabbages and Cabbage
Lettuces of France. Of course, it is generally

SEXECIO CLIVORUM EFFECTIVELY GROUPED BY THE WWTERSIDE AT GUXNERSBURY HOUSE, ACTON.

the spring

better quality, \vitli a little more copper colour in
the centre.

Reine Marie Henriette (Levett, 1S73), commonly
known as the Red Gloire, is deser-i'ing of attention
where an early bit of bright wall colouring is
required, as this Rose gives its cherry red flowers
abundantly. Prune closely.

Isabella Sprunt (Verschaffelt, 1867) will grow
20 feet high and annually give a huge crop of its
lemon yellow flowers, which continue in a lessened
manner throughout the summer and autumn.

Sinica Anemone is worthy of a place on a south
or west wall, where its large silvery pink, single
flowers are produced freely, and which contrast
so well with the darkly-tinted foliage.

Belle Vichysoise produces its violet pink flowers
in clusters early in the season and again in Sep-
tember, when it is most valuable on that account.

Marechal Niel I hardly care to mention, as it
seems t«> have almost dropped out of cultivation
as an outdoor variety, .\nyhow, given a south wall
and liberal treatment to plants worked on the
ordinary Briar, magnificent blooms can be
obtained, also a wealth of foliage.

I have left the Banksian type till the last, but
cannot exclude them, although they have one
serious fault — want of continuity. If is surprising

known that the Cabbage Rose belongs to Rosa
centifolia, but where it, orighiated is not defi-
nitely known. Some authorities say one thing,
others another. It is rather remarkable that
hybridisers have not taken this tribe in hand
more, because undoubtedly it is very amen-
able to cross-fertilisation. It is very spor-
tive, one lovely variety, the Crested Provence,
having originated as a sport from the Cabbage
Provence, and first noticed on the walls of a convent
in Switzerland. I have heard of plants of the
Cabbage Rose known to have been in one family
for eighty years. Others have related how, on
transplanting rooted cuttings from one garden,
the plants have sported and produced single
blooms.

The iloss Rose is generally believed to have
sported from the Provence Rose, and was first
introduced from Holland to England some 300
years ago. Now in the Mosses there is a far larger
variety than in the Cabbage or Provence Roses.
I am certain one could evolve a very fragrant group
of Roses from both of these tribes, and I should
say it is worth while. One of the sweetest Roses
I know is Zenobia, a large-flowered Moss variety,
but with very little of the mossy characteristic, and
yet it is unmistakably a Moss. I value fragrance
so much that I think I would rather have a fragrant

124

THE GARDEN.

[March 8, 1913.

variety that flowered but once than a continuous
bloomer that is scentless. That the Moss Rose is able
to impart its mossy character is proved by the new
hybrid with wicburaiana in the variety named \\'ich-
moss ; and now that raisers have made a start to use
the tribe, let us hope we may soon have other beau-
tiful hybrids from these groups. Daxecroft.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

THE DOUBLE-FLOWERED CHINESE
CHERRY.

(Cer.^sus SERRUL.^TA PLORE PLKN'O.)

THIS exceedingly ornamental tree is too well
known to need description, for its profu-
sion of double white flowers suffused with
pink make it one of the greatest pleasures of the
garden in April. The tree makes a fine head with its
widely-spreading branches, and for this reason it is

trees and shrubs. Yet in the few instances where
the hybridist has gone systematically to work,
he has achieved results which are quite equal to
those which have crowned his efforts in other
directions. Moreover, the several natural hybrids
which have occurred among woody plants rank
so high in their respective groups that there would
appear to be every encouragement offered to the
person who takes up the hybridisation of trees and
shrubs on an extensive scale.

Everyone is familiar with the gratifying results
which have rewarded the efforts of the raisers of
the garden Roses. Rhododendrons, .Azaleas,
Clematises and Syringas, and in a more modest
way of the Diervillas, Philadelphuses, Magnolias
and Deutzias ; yet in each of these groups a great
deal of work is still to be done. With the many
new Rhododendrons which have appeared during
recent years, particularly with those of a dwarf
character, it is likely that quite new types could

.»>-
'^^

«rv

<%

A BEAUTIFUL SPRING-FLOWERING TREE : PRUNUS SERRULATA FLORE PLENQ.

an admirable subject for planting as an isolated speci-
men on a lawn in such a position as that depicted in
the accompanying illustration. Although the cutting
of specimen trees is by no means recommended, yet
this double-flowered Cherry is one of the most useful
for room decoration, a few sprays, each wreathed
with its little rosettes of flowers, having a most
charming effect when arranged in large bowls or
Japanese vases. Trees of this beautiful Cherry may
still be planted, but the work should be completed
at the earliest possible date.

HYBRID TREES AND SHRUBS.

Although the hybridist has played such an impor-
tant part in the horticultural world by the raising
of new types, or the improvement of existing
kinds, of fruits, vegetables and many of our
siiowiest decorative plants, except in the case of
a few genera very little work of a systematic
character has been carried i;jut in connection with

be raised, especially if such a sliowy and floriferous
plant as R. racemosum were used as one parent.

further efforts, while the popularity and general
usefulness of the hybrid Berberis stenophylla.
suggest the Barberries as a likely field for work.
Within the last twenty years we have had ample
proof of M. Lemoine's success with the two genera
Philadelphus and Deutzia, while his garden Lilacs
may be found by the dozen ; but in each genus
there is still considerable work to be done, for
there are numerous species yet unworked which
suggest themselves as likely parents.

There is already a nmnber of hybrid Spirjeas,
but with such a one as S. arguta as an object-
lesson the hybridist may well push the work
further. Cotoneaster is an untouched genus,
yet it appeals to one as a likely family to produce
interesting results. With the exception of Hyperi-
cum moserianum, no hybrid Hypericums have
appeared ; yet, although the various species do
not cross readily, they should be persevered with.
Tlie new kinds of Clematis, more particularly the
varieties of C. montana, crossed with
, older kinds might be made the parents
of a distinct race with the montana
habit, while the beautiful C. Armandii
is quite worth trying as a parent.
Among hardy Heaths there is a
floriferous hybrid. Erica Veitchii,
raised between E. arborea and E.
lusitanica ; but what one would like
to see would be the union of the
tall-growing Southern European sorts
with the hardier E. carnea. Whether
these species are too widely separated
to cross must be considered, but
in hybridisation one must take
cliances and be prepared for a goodly
percentage of failures.

^Esculus carnea. the red-flowered
Horse Chestnut, is a worthy ex-
ample of a large - growing tree of
hybrid origin, and it is probable
that others quite as beautiful could
be raised in the same genus. The
\'arious hybrid Pyruses are showy
enough to warrant further efforts
among the species, while such a
genus as Catalpa might furnish useful
trees. It is only during a very
hot summer, however, that the last-
named genus would be likely to
perfect seed. The few hybrid forest
trees which have appeared are
generally more vigorous than their
respective types, and sylvicultural
experts look forward to the time
when hybrid trees may be growii as well as,
and more rapidly than, species. Except with

The large-flowered Chinese kinds, again, crossed ^ those subjects, ' such as Willows and Poplars,
with Himalayan or American species, or with
existing hybrids, would probably produce really
good varieties, while the several yellow-flowered
kinds which are now obtainable are well worth
using as parents in order to try to obtain a large-
trussed, yellow-flowered evergreen.

Two or three species only have been used as
parents among the JIagnolias, yet there are many
others which might be tried. M. stellata, for
instance, ofters decided possibilities, while the
summer-flowering kinds also deserve attention.
More will doubtless be done with the Diervillas
yet. while the new genus Dipelta may possibly
prove quite as amenable as the closely-allied
Diervilla.

The few hybrid Brooms are showy enough and of tlie plants, their behaviour in regard to growth
distinct enough to encourage tlie hybridist to and their time of flowering

which may be raised from cuttings, the
day seems far aw'ay when h\brid trees will
be able to compete successfully with species
for forest planting — not. at any rate, until
types can be obtained wliich will breed true
from seeds.

Altogether there would appear to be a remunera-
tive future for anyone who takes up the hybridising
of trees and shrubs in a systematic manner, although
he must be prepared to wait several ^'ears before
he can hope to see any return for his work. One
thing is, however, highly essential to the success
of such an undertaking ; that is, that strict records
are kept of all the work done, not only the actual
crossing, but the sowing of the seeds, appearand

W. D.

March 8, 1913.]

THE GAEDEN.

12 5

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS

HOW TO RAISE ANNUALS.

WliLL-GROWN annuals bear such
a profusion of beautiful blossoms,
and are so varied and rich in
colours, that every year ama-
teurs extend their cultiva-
tion considerably, and there
are many additions to the ranks.

There are the half-hardy and the hardy annuals.
Tlie flowers of the latter are as beautiful as those
of the former, but the half-hardy kinds and varieties
must be raised tmder glass or given some
temporary protection. Amateurs possessing every
convenience as regards glass structures — especially
in the form of heated frames — may sow seeds several
weeks earlier than those persons who are obliged
to depend on cold or temporary frames.

Raising Annuals Under Glass. — This may be
iliuie in pots, pans, boxes, or on the bed formed in
a frame. The actual sowing of the seeds is
best done in pots, pans, or boxes. Where great
quantities are required, boxes may be used in
which to sow the seeds, as the inexperienced
cultivator is not so likely to sow them too thickly.
It is, however, a good plan to prepare a number
i]f pots, pans and boxes in good time, also the
compost : then the work of actual sowing can be
quickly done. Xhe larger seeds may be sown in the coarser

All seed receptacles must be clean, especially compost, but for the very tiny ones the soil used
inside, and well drained. In springtime the sun- may be again sifted. There is no difficulty ex-
heat is strong and the soil dries up quickly on the periencedin sowing the larger seeds with the hand,
surface. If the drainage is bad, then the soil but the finer ones may be sovvn as shown in Fig. A
will soon become sour through the frequent appli- at No. i. The seeds are placed in a "scoop"
cations of water. The general compost for the formed of half a sheet of note-paper, or even a
seeds sown under glass should be made up of the smaller piece, as shown at No. 2. It is very easy
following ingredients : Old fibrous loam passed then to distribute the small seeds thinly and evenly,
through a half-inch sieve, sweet leaf-soil (both of , Very tiny or dust-like seeds should be scattered
the above in equal proportions), some rotted on a white sturface formed of sand ; then the
manure (r peck to 6 pecks (jf the above), and coarse sower can readily see how thickly the seeds are

HELPFUL ILLUSTRATIONS IN SEED-SOWING AND PRICKING-OFF

FULL DETAILS SEE TEXT.

the

hot-

the

sand or road gnt. This will do nicelv.

dropping.

HOW ANNUStS MAY BE ARRANGED IN NARROW BORDERS AND NEAR FENCES.

Favourite positions for seed-boxes arc-
front stages of greenhouses over the
water pipes, as shown at No. 3, or on
higher shelves. Over-dryness must be guarded
against. When seeds are sown in pots, the
latter should be well drained and not be more
than three parts filled with compost, as shown at
Nos. 4 and 5.

Harden, and even raise, many seedlings in cool
frames, as shown at No. 6. No. 7 shows a seedling
of Marguerite Carnation ready for the first trans-
planting, and No. 8 the same plant ready for a
second transplanting. No. 9 shows a Helianthus
seedling before being transplanted, and No. 10
the same plant seven days afterwards. These
will act as guides for an inexperienced amateur
as to how the young seedlings must be treated
right from the beginning.

How to Raise Annuals in the Open Border. —
These should be of the hardy kinds, or, if
of half-hardy ones, very early sowing must be
avoided. Prepare the soil by deeply digging it
and putting in some rotted manure at the same
time, and before sowing the seeds well break up
the surface.

Whole Borders of Annuals. — Fig. B shows
how to arrange annuals in a border near a fence.
Nos. I I I I, Mignonette; Nos. 222, Godetias ;
Nos. 3333, Stocks (some mixed coloiurs, others
distinct) ; Nos. 444, Sweet Peas ; Nos. 5555,
Collinsia grandiflora ; Nos. 6 6 6, Candytuft
(some mixed, others distinct) ; No. 7, Coreopsis
Burridgei (crimson and yellow) ; No. 8, Clarkia
elegans Brilliant ; No. 1 9, annual Chrysanthe-
mums (mixed) ; No. 10, Lupinus roseus. Fig. C
shows a long, narrow border, tile-edged, with the
annuals grown in rows. No. i. Stocks ; Nos. 2 2,
Asters (mixed colours) ; Nos. 3 3, Tom Thumb
Nasturtium Beauty of Malvern (rich scarlet).
Of course, other kinds may be used ; this is simply
an example given as a guide. The Nasturtiums
are best in poor soil. G. G.

126

THE GARDEN.

[March 8, 1913-

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.
Lobelia cardinalis. — This shuwy subject should

uow be commencing to grow, and to secure good
plants the old clumps should be pulled apart,
placing one, two, or three shoots in a 3-inch pot.
A little heat mav be necessary to give them a start,
hut after they get nicely rooted they may again
be returned to the cold frame.

Clematis Jaclunanii should now be pruned hard
back, and if the plants are in such a position that
the roots are among or under other shrubs, a good
dressing of well-rotted manure will help them
considerably. Attention must be given the plants
as they break into growth, tying up the young,
tender shoots regularly, or many valuable flowers
will be lost.

Lawns. — The unusually mild weather has been
the cause of keeping the grass growing practically
all the winter, and in sheltered positions it has
attained a good length ; but now that there should
be no danger from severe frost, mowing must be
commenced. Where very long, the scythe must
be requisitioned ; but where only of moderate
length, a light machine, such as a " Pennsylvania,"
will be the best to use. Needless to say, a good
sweeping and rolling a few days beforehand is
necessary to get the lawn to look well after cutting,
and I never think it wise to set the machine too
low for a start.

The Rock Garden.

The various subjects 111 the m. k garden are now
growing apace, and the present is a good time for
making up any deficiencies. Propagated plants
of last season may now be planted out without any
fear of injury from frost, as we ought not to get
very severe frosts now.

Top-Dressing. — .After a year's rain such as we
have had. manv of the niches, crevices and pockets
in the rock gMden will be the better for the addition
of a little soil, after forking over the surface with
a small hand-fork, good leaf-soil and fresh loam
being probably the best dressing for most subjects,
though in others a little peat or, maybe, lime-
stone chippings will be lound more suitable to the
requirements of indi\'idual plants.
Plants Under Glass.

Cannas. — Stock plants of this usefiil greenhouse-
subject should now be shaken out, potting up the
voung rhizomes singly or two or three in a pot.
according to requirements. For flowering on single
stems in a 4i-inch or 6-inch pot, a 3-inch or 4-inch
pot will be best for the present, while those intended
for larger pots or for planting out may be potted
two or three in a 6-inch pot. A fairly rich, open
compost is best for them, and a brisk growing
temperature will ensure them making roots quickly.

Freesias. — Where these are grown on from year
to year, they should be given fairly liberal treat-
ment. Now that they are all out of flower, they
should be placed in a batch in a fairly cool house
or frame and given liquid manure- water till growth is
matured, when the maniure-water may be gradually
withheld as the foliage turns yellow, and the bulb's
be given a good drying off in the sun before shaking
them out of the soil.

Alocasias. — These are now breaking into leaf,
and should be repotted before growth is very far
advanced, or the plants will receive a check. Good
ftbn.ms loam, peat, charcoal, sphagnum moss and
silver sand is a good compost for them. Where
the rhizomes have attained any great length,
the bottom may be removed, just keeping the
crown well above the surface of the soil. The
old stem, if cut up and placed in sand in the
propagating-frame, will readily increase the stock.
Plenty of heat and moisture are required for these
plants, and the shady side of the stove will suit
them best.

The Kitchen Garden.

Seakale. — The present is a very suitable time
lor plantnig the thongs that have been prepared
beforehand and which may have already formed
small shoots or growths ; and to secure good forcing
crowns for the autumn a well-cultivated and richly-
manured piece of ground should be selected.
Plenty of space should be allowed between the rows,
and the sets placed from 9 inches to a foot in the
rows. These should be well firmed by treading,

keeping the crown of the thong (or cutting) just
on a level with the surface of the soil.

Radishes. — Weekly sowings should now be made
out of doors, at the same time making another
sowing in the frame to keep up the supply till the
outdoor ones come into use.

Potatoes. — Early varieties may now be planted
on warm borders, but only where the soil is naturally
light and dry. Tubers that have been started
in boxes will naturally be selected for the purpose ;
but if the growths have attained any great length,
they must be planted at a depth where they will
not come through the soil too early.

Fruits Under Glass.

Early Vines. — Many of these will now be
advanced enough for thinning. If a good set has
been secured and there are more bunches than are
required, they may be taken off before thinning is
commenced, and thus save time and labour, though,
where young hands are employed in thinning, it
may be advisable to leave on more than is required,
in case one or two happen to be spoilt. Generally
speaking, early varieties of Grapes do not require
quite so much thiiming as do the later varieties,
but to secure good berries a fair amount of space
is required. Many bunches are spoilt by over-
thinning of the shoulders, or top branches of the
bunch, thereby losing weight as well as shapeliness
of the bimches.

Feeding. — immediately after thinning is an
excellent time to give the Vines a good manuring,
either in the form of liquid manure or artificial
sprinkled on the surface and watered in, and at
this time a good, quick-acting maniu'e is far the
best, as most growers will have dressed the borders
either in the autumn or winter with the slower-
acting phosphatic and potash manures.

Ventilating. — To take full advantage of all
the smi-heat, great care must now be exercised,
and though a temperature of from 60° to 65°
may be sufficient if it has to be maintained by
fire-heat, a very considerable increase may be
allowed with the sun. Thomas Stevenson.

(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wubiiyn Place Gardens, Addlcslonc. Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Border Carnations. — These may be planted as
soon .as the condition of the soil will permit. Taking
it for granted that the ground was previously
manured and deeply dug, it should now receive
a dressing of soot and ground lime, and then be
loosened and made fine with the digging-fork.
Allow the soil a few days to settle, and then plant
with a trowel about fourteen inches apart either
way. Carnations are most effective when con-
siderable masses of a variety are planted together.
A dusting of soot when the foliage is damp wUl
help to keep the sparrows at bay.

Iris reticulata. — This iris is a gem, and as it
is now in bloom, it suggests to one to advocate
its cultivation on a more extensive scale. With
bulbs at sixpence apiece and the certainty of their
increasing rapidly, there is no reason why it should
not be every man's flower. It is partial to a good
supply of moisture if drainage is ample, and it
likes a little peat.

Gladioli. — The finer named varieties of these
may now be started in a greenhouse temperature,
either in 4-inch pots or in boxes among some light,
flaky material.

Tuberous Begonias. — These should now be
started in a little heat. Place them in shallow
boxes on a layer of flaky leaf-mould, and work in
a little of the same material and sand between the
tubers, leaving the crowns bare. Spray lightly
daily to induce them to push, but beware of giving
them too much moisture.

The Pleasure Grounds.
Trimming Edgings. — This work should be
attended to before dry weather sets in. Prior to
applying the edging-iron to the edgings of lawns
and grass walks, the roller should be run along
the edge of the lawn twice, and when edging no
more should be pared away than is absolutely
necessary to ensure a straight edge. Where

curves have to be negotiated, see that the line
describes a graceful sweep before commencing to
cut. Where long, straight lines occur, the line
should be pegged down at regular distances.

Pruning Ivy. — This is an ideal time to prune
Ivy, just before active growth commences, as it
then remains bare for the shortest possible period.
Here we use a sharp hedge-bill for the operation, as
by means of ib the work can be done more expe-
ditiously than with the pruning-shears ; moreover,
with this tool one can reach points difficult of
access when the shears are used.

Plants Under Glass.

Rooted Cuttings. — Cuttings which were inserted
a week or two ago wiU now be rooted, and should
be potted off. Give a good watering when potted,
but afterwards be sparing of water at the roots till
growth again commences. Spray lightly in the
afternoons and keep rather close for a time.

Gloxinias. — The main batch may now be started
into active growth much in the same way as
recommended for tuberous Begonias, but in a rather
higher temperature.

Chrysanthemums. — Early-struck stock intended
for the production of large blooms will now mostly
be fit to shift into 5-inch pots, and the following
mixture will be found suitable : Two parts of
fibrous loam, one part of good leaf-mould, one
part of dried horse-manure, with some sand, soot
and bone-meal added. Keep the plants well up to
the light in a cool house.

Fruits Under Glass.

Disbudding Peaches. — Some of the later houses
will now require attention, and two general princi-
ples should be observed — remove buds occurring
above and below the shoot for preference, and
utilise the buds occurring near the base of the
shoot as far as possible.

Potted Trees. — These, whether in an orchard-
house or other structure, must be artificially
pollinated as they come into flower. .A fine feather
brush or a rabbit's tail serves the purpose very
well. The operation should be performed in the
early forenoon. Maintain a rather dry atmosphere
at this period and apply no stimulants till the
fruit is set.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Fighting the Birds. — Bullfinches often do
considerable damage to the buds of the Black
Ciurant, and tomtits play havoc with the buds
of the Gooseberry and Red Currant. A dusting
of soot or slaked lime will generally ward off their
attacks till the critical period is past.

Magpie Moth Caterpillar. — When the sawfly

caterpillar appears, a dusting of Hellebore powder
will annihilate the enemy. Not so with the pest
under consideration. This too, however, can be
exterminated, and that by spraying either with
arsenate of copper at the rate of half an ounce to
twelve gallons of water, or arsenate of lead at
about eight times the strength indicated. Which-
ever is used, get it in paste form, and add some treacle
to the mixture to make it adhere. Stir frequently
during the process of spraying. If there is any
suspicion of the presence of the pest, the bushes
should be sprayed now.

The Vegetable Garden.

Planting Early Potatoes. — Tubers which were
started m a little warmth may, if the weather is
mild, be planted out at the foot of a south wall,
and should be partly covered with some old potting
soil in a rather dry condition. This batch will be
of limited size, and will require to have protei-
tion afforded it should hard weather occur. The
bulk of the early varieties should also be planted
whenever the conditions of soil and weather will
permit. A good tilth should be secured, and
the drills be drawn 2 feet apart with the draw-
hoe. .A dusting of soot in the drills will be beneficial.
Plant the sets about a foot apart. Midlothian
Early and Duke of York are two excellent early
varieties.

Parsnips may now be sown in ground that has
been deeply trenched and has had no rank manure
applied to it. Those who are to grow for exhi-
bition would do well to pierce the ground deeply
by means of a stout-pointed, round stake and
mallet, filling up the holes with sifted rich soil.
Sow a few seeds in each hole and thin out to one
plant later. Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

March 8, 1913.]

THE GAEDIN.

127

HINTS ON PACKING
DAFFODILS FOR A SHOW.

BETWEEN the growing and the staging of
our blooms there is a very important
operation to be performed, viz., their
transference from our own home to
the venue of the show. I have been
asked to give some hints as to the
best way of packing the flowers for this journey.

One of my earliest recollections of Daflfodil
shows is the arrival of the late Mr. Bourne on the
scene at Birmingham with an innumerable
number of small boxes that might very
well have contained chocolate crsams or
slabs of nougat, but which, as a matttr
of fact, were full of very carefully-laid-in
Daffodil blooms. .4t that time my own
flowers used to be brought in the more
rough-and-tumble way of just bunching
up the different kinds together and then
crowding them into boxes rather tightly ;
much, in fact, in the same way as I
would pack for market. This worked
pretty well. The flowers were too clos'
together to move, but when they were
taken out they showed traces of their
crushing, and it was long before the>-
completely recovered. A few never did,
although they were always some time in
water before thev were staged.

Material Required. — Nowadays I never
pack like this. What I do I am about to
explain step by step. The stock in trade
from which I draw consists of (i) suitable-
sized bo.xes made of quarter-inch light
wood with the ends and bottoms of
half an inch to give strength. They
must be deep enough to take the longest
trumpet. Width and length are more or
less optional. A convenient size is :
Depth, 4| inches or 5 inches ; length,
33 inches ; and width, 12 inches ; but
in this matter everyone must please
themselves, only let them be deep and
long enough. .\11 the boxes should be
exactly the same size for the conveni-
ence of tying them together in twos or
threes when travelling. (2) Half - inch
common white tape ; (3) small drawing-
pins ; (4) white tissue-paper ; and (5)
some raffta or other tying material.

The First Step is to give all our flowers
a good drink. From ten to twelve hours
is none too long. Then, before packing,
they should be carefully drained and the
ends wiped to avoid any liquid oozing
out, as has happened to the long stem
in the illustration. The box must be lined
with paper, and enough left to fold
over the flowers when the box is full.
I secure the tissue-paper to the bottom by a
pin in each corner. As a rule, every bloom
is packed singly by securing its stem in two
places (sometimes in three), as shown in the
partly-filled box. Sometimes, however, it is best
to tie three or four together, as is done with the
" eyed " flowers. These are secured in a similar
way to the bottom of the box. To steady indi-
vidual flowers I frequently find it advisable to place
cushions of crumpled tissue-papei behind them (see
'he right-hand flower, where such a pad can be
pljinly^een). These must be firmly pnined to prevent

their working loose. The pieces of tape must be cut
long enough to leave a free end to take hold of
when the pinning process is completed. Unpack-
ing is thus faciUtated, as the pins can be dra^vn out
without any breaking of finger nails, and in conse-
quence, possibly, some not very polite language.
The illustration shows only a partly-packed box ;
but both ends must be utilised for the blooms,
leaving the centre for the stalks. With a little
practice it is very surprising how many may be
got into a box by carefully interlocking, as it were,
one flower with another. Space is valuable, as
obviously no one wants to take more boxes than are

leaves. These, together with some nice fresh,
green moss, should be in a box by themselves,
I always take rather more than I think I will want.
In the end I generally use all I have ; one can hardly
ever put too much foliage in the vases. On the
other hand, it is an eyesore to come across blooms
set up with too little. In conclusion, may I give
this further piece of advice to those who are not
adepts at taking flowers to show : Be sure to prac-
tise before the exhibition box is to be packed.
The interlacing of the blooms into one another,
no less than the firm pinning of the stems with
the pieces of tape, requires a certain amount
of familiarity with the process if it is
. to be done well. Joseph Jacob.

WINTER FOLIAGE FOR
CUTTING.

A USEFUL BOX TACKED WITH NARCISSI READV
TRAVELLING TO THE SHOW.

absolutely necessary. If the journey is a very
long one, small sponges or wedges of damp brown
paper may be introduced among the stems (of
course, well secured) to keep the inside atmosphere
moist and so preventing the perianths from flagging.
On Arrival at the Show it is hardly necessary
to say that the bo.xes should be unpacked as soon
as possible. If there is enough time, about a quarter
of an inch of each stem should be cut off with a
sharp knife before the blooms are put into water.
This undoubtedly aids its absorption. An impor-
tant .idjunit to "jMcid rtowers is having plenty of

JUST now, when flowers are scarce,
it may be of use to note some
of the kinds of hardy greenery
that are available for indoor
decoration, with the addition of
very few flowers, or even without
|M| any. I do not grow many shrubs with
*^ parti-coloured foUage, but should not like
to be without a bush or two of the gold-
variegated Elfflagnus. Not <jnly is it hand-
some in itself and highly becoming to any
white or yellow flowers, but two or three
short pieces of branch, from their ex-
tremely stiff and rigid character, make a
cimvenient support for the flower-stems.
It is also durable, lasting well for a fort-
night or even three weeks. Every winter,
just before Christmas, it comes into special
use to accompany a tew spikes of Cypri-
pedium iusigne. The gold-variegated Privet
is another favourite and a good companion
to the yellow Winter Jasmine. .Another
shrub with a golden effect, thoug.h not
variegated, is Cassinia fulvida. The small
leaves are dark green above and yellow
underneath, but from the set of the
branches, so much of the yellow shows
that it has a general golden effect. As a
garden shrub its defect is a weak habit,
the long, yearly shoots hanging out in a
way that makes a rather ragged-looking
bush. A free cutting of these outer
shoots not only provides greenery of a
refined and unusual appearance, but helps
to keep the shrub in bettor shape.

Alexandrian Laurel (Ruscus racemosus;

is a slow-growing plant, but the owner

of a few well-established tufts may well

spare a frond or two for room ornament,

r'OR and it lasts so long that the sacrifice is

the less regrettable. In a room one can

all the better admire its incomparable grace

and structure. The same may be said of the Sweet

Bay. It is a strange thing that one does not

see a Bay tree in every garden. It may be a little

too tender for our colder regions, but should be

grown wherever the climate allows. As in the

case of the Alexandrian Laurel, the beauty of

form is an unending wonder and delight, and can

best be appreciated when it is brought indoors.

Earlier in the year Ilex branches are beautiful
with flowers, but by this time they are generally
spotted and unfit for use. Skimmia japonica,
and especially t.'if wider-leaved forms oblata and

128

THE GARDEN.

[March 8, 1913.

Foremanii, arejamong the best of winter greens
for cutting. No leaves are so good for putting with
Stephanotis, the twigs cut short and set in an open
bowl. Stephanotis is nut flowering yet, but Skim-
mia branches, in longer pieces, are admirable with
Lent Hellebores, as the flowers, whose inclination
is to hang their heads, can be brought up among
the stiff, leathery leaves and made to show their
inner beauties. But the Hellebores will not last
well unless the precautions are taken of slitting up
the stems so that they can drink their fill of water,
and of putting them overnight in a deep pail or some-
thing that will give them a bath of several hours'
duration with the water up to the actual bloom.

Two of the Andromedas, namely, Leucothoe
Catesbsei and L. axillaris, have beautiful and long-
enduring foliage for winter use ; some of it green
and some marbled and spotted with red ; some even
red all over. There is scarcely need to remind
anyone of the use of Berberis Aquifolium, with its
fine colom'ings of reddish bronze. The almost
equally familiar Aucuba with the yellow-spotted
leaves is not so often used indoors as it
deserves. G. Jekvli..

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— Z'/it' Editor intemh to
make The Garden helpful to all readers ivko desire assist-
ance, no moMcr what the branch of gardening may be, and
anth that object will make a special feature of the "Ansivers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When niore than one
query is sent, each s/iould be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming sliould be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of tlie plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the PUULISHKR.

FLOWER GARDEN.

HERBACEOUS BORDER (J. B.).—A border of the width
and leuj^h yuu deaenbe would be better treated with
two lines ot groups, together with low-growing plants
at the margin. 'Xha Privet, both iu the matter of colour
and the nungry nature of its ever- spreading roots, is,
to some extent, a drawback, though the colour may bR
obliterated by planting green-leaved subjects — Galegas,
iviichaelmas l>aisies, Delphiniums and other tall-growing
.subjects — in the background. In such a case, and more
particularly if the Privet is inclined to colour much in
summcr-tmie, you should avoid planting white and yeUow
Mowerod tlungs ; good strong blues, violet, rose and mauve
would be better. If the aim is to produce good effect
quickly, you should plant three or five of every variety
uf plant to torm a group, arranging the items a foot or more
apart according to tueir habit and vigour of growth,
lor example, a back line of groups set at least 24 feet
irom the nedge might be made up of Anchusa Dropmore
variety, Aster Climax, A. William Marshall, A. cordifolius
Ideal, A. Arcturus, Hollyhocks iu rose, pink or red shades,
Phlox Flambeau, Delphiniums l>uke of tomiaught, Carmen,
Persimmon, King of Delphiniums, Amos Perry and Calega
His Majesty. These would have to be distributed through-
out the length of the border. In the second line of groups
plant Phloxes Iris and Le .Mahdi (blue shades), Mrs. E. H.
Jenkins and 8ylphide (white), Etna (crimson scarlet),
Klizabeth Campbell (pink), Iris pallida, I. p. dalmatica,
1. aurea, I. Queen of May, I. Gracchus. I. Mme. Chereau,
Pyretlu-ums (single and double), hybrid Columbines,
Delphinium (Belladonna, TrolUus napellifolius, I. Orange
Glooe, Kudbeckia Newmanii, Erigeron Quakeress, E.
^peciosus superbus and hybrid Pentstemons ; wiiile near
tue margin Phlox Tapis Blanc, Campanula carpatica,
C. c. alba, C. c. Uiverslea, Mossy Saxitragea, Aubrietias,
Pinks and other plants of like stature might appear.
We cannot enter into the question of cost ; the plants
•■numerated would cost from 5s. to 10s. per dozen. Your
better plan would be to invite prices from the hardy plant
specialists who advertise in our columns. Prices vary,
naturally, according to the size and quality of the goods
supplied. You had better allow the Currant bushes to
remain, as, in any case, the fruit crop this year from
recently-planted trees would not be much.

PLANTING BEDS WITH PERENNIALS {A. 0. J.).—
The uoruers on each side of tue gravel patli, by reason
01 thuu varyjjig wiuths, will require somewnat dirterent
\ leat menl . i ou migt'.t, However, observe some degree
ol umiormity by planting a n argin of white Pink or Dr.
MiUes Aubnetia, royal purple colour. Behind these for
tue larger border you might arrange Campanula Hostii,
C. H. aloa, C glomerata danurica, C. carpatica, C. c.
alba, C. Kiverslea, C. Hillside .Oiem, ^Helenium pumilum,
H. p. magmhcum, Heucheras in halt-a-dozen sorts,
Arenaria plantaginea rubra. Aster sub-CiJtruleus, Primula
japomca, P. denticulata and Saxifraga cordifolia purpurea ;
in another row hybrid Columbines, single and double
Pyrethrums in variety, Hag Irises in perhaps a dozen
sorts, with campanma persicifolia in ulue and white,
Helenium cupreum and the like. If a few taller plants
were needed, you would obtain ihem in Michaelmas
Daisies, herbaceous Phloxes, Delphiniums and Sunflower?.
In the' narrower border, apart from the margin, there
would be room lor two lines oi plants, and you might for
a start take ualf of the Campanulas named above
and distribute them tluroughout tue length ot the border.
Jiy planting in the same line a variety of Pentstemons, great
gaiety would be secured, and to these could be added PlUox
canadensis, Trodius europaeus and Aster acris nana ,
in the_^next line a selection of white, blue and salmon
coloured herbaceous Pldoxes, Iris pallida, I. p. dalmatica,
I. aurea, I. Monnieri, Aquilegia chrysantha, TroUius
Orange Ulobe, Delphinium Belladonna, Aster Amellus
in variety, A. acris, A. eriroides, A. e. Desire and the like.
In tiie lawn beds you had better rely on a few plants,
Aster cordilolius Ideal and scarlet Pentstemons tor the
central bed, planting the other two with Lilium speciosum
cruentum and white and pink Pentstemons. It is a little
unfortunate that the beds are now occupied, as this will
make the planting late. Had you arranged for planting
in autumn, a variety of good garden Lilies and Daltodils
might also have been included. If you have but little
knowledge of the plants, some advice on the spot would
appear necessary in order to secure an effectivo distribution
01 me plants.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

IS THUYA OCCIDENTALIS POISONOUS ? ((V. B. M).^
We have no evidence of Tiuiya unhlriiiuhs buiug poisonous
to sheep or horses, and uotluug tu tluit ullcct is mentioned
in any of the American publicatiuus wc have seen. We
think that if the tree were really poisonous, something
to that edect would be mentioned m the botanical descrip-
tions of the species. It has been in cultivation iu this
country since 1596 ; therefore there has been ample oppor-
tunity for such properties to have been noted, did it possess
them.

PLANTING HEDGE NEAR A RIVER {M. M. C.).~-It
would certainly be unwise to plant a Yew hedge ou ground
that is subject to occasional flooding, for there would be
little chance of the hedge succeeding. It is possible that
Whitethorn might answer the purpose, but you would
probably do better to plant common Alder, Alnus glutinosa.
This does not mind the ground being wet, and may be kept
fairly compact by strict attention to pruning. Be careful,
however, to use plants which are bushy to the ground,
otherwise the hedge will be gappy.

SHRUBS FOR A NORTH BORDER (C. B. F. M.}.-~
The loUowing shrubs are likely to thrive m the posiUou
you mention : Berberis Aquifolium. B. wallienianum,
B. stenophvUa, Kibes sauguineum, Forsythia suspensa,
8pir£ea argiita, Cotoneaster buxifolia, C. rotundifolia,
any of the Privets, Aucuba japonica and Escallonia
philippiana. It is rather doubtful whether a Fuchsia
updge would succeed in the position, but it is worth trying.
Be careful to work the ground well before planting the
shrubs, otherwise they will not start away well, and in
such a position a good start, is half the battle.

CLIMBERS FOR A HOUSE {Mrs. M. 5.).— You cannot
do better tlian plant Cratiegus Pyracantha on the front
of your house. It is evergreen, is easily kept within
bounds by pruning, flowers well in May and bears showy
orange scarlet fruits in autumn. It is not a seU-clinger.
but needs little nailing, the main branches only requiring
support. Tropteolum speciosum may succeed with you
if your soil is cool and moist, but it must not be placed
in a position where it will feel the full force of the sun.
A west or north-west aspect is considered a good one for
it. We do not know whether plants take two years to
flower if grown from seeds, but it is quite likely that they do_

DISEASED LEAVES OF CAMELLIA (Rev. S. H. B.).~
The leaf sent for e.-camination has been injured by a fungus,
but the plant from which it was taken must be iu a very
poor condiUon if the leaf forwarded is typical of the others
on the plant. We imagine that the plant has become
weakened by being planted in uasuitable soil. Probably
it is badly drained and sour. A little good could be done
by removing and burning the worst of the leaves, at the
same time cutting the branches moderately hard back
and burning the prunings. Then spray tiie branches
once a week for a month or so with Bordeaux mixture
or some other fungicide. Syringe with clear water two
or three times a day, and as soon as new shoots appear
take the plants out of the old soil, remove all the soil.
drain the border well with clean bricks and cHukers, and
replant in equal parts of good fibrous loam and peat,
with a fair addition of sand, bits of sandstone and pieces
of cha-coal. The replanting could probably be done
about tlie middle of \pril. There is little douht that root
injury is the original source of the trouble. In the event
of the roots being found to be very liad. it would be advis-
able to destroy the plant and start again with a new one

DECAY IN OAK TREE (O, itf.).— It is not possible to
say from the piece of wood sent lor examination what may
be the cause of the decay of the Oak. The section
received is typical of what is often noticed in decaying
trunks and branches which have been injured by fungus.
The insects present in the wood are only such as inhabit
dead wood, and they are not responsible for the decay.
Your best plan is to cut all dead branches clean away,
making the cuts parallel with the trunk. Then, where
decayed places occur, clear away as much decayed wood
as possible and paint the surface over with a strong solution
of carbolic acid. When that is dry, give all wounds a coat
of coal-tar, and where there are any hollows, fill them with
cement level with the bark. When the cement is dry, it
may be painted with tar to make it less conspicuous.
Any of the topmost branches which may be dead should
be cut down about a foot below the dead joints, the wounds
being tarred over as advised for the others. If the tree
is fairly vigorous, a considerable amount of new wood will
be formed in the course of the next few years.

PLANT FOR NAME AND TREATMENT (fl. C. N.).—
The specimen sent for identification is Acacia armata
variety angustifolia. It may be grown in pots or in a
border in a cold or cool greenhouse, and in Cornwall and
other places where similar climatic conditions prevail
it may be grown out of doors. A good compost may be
prepared by mixing peat and loam in equal proportions,
witn one part in seven of silver sand. Pot firmly and
stand the plants out of doors in June, letting them remain
iu a sunny position until September, then removing them
to a light and ahry greenhouse. Plants grown in indoor
borders may be given the same kind of soil, but care must
be taken to provide good drainage When the plants
are well rooted, give manure-water twice a week during
the growing season, for the object in view is the formation
of long, strong shoots which will produce flowers through-
out almost the whole length, and tlie plants must be grown
without a check to effect this. As soon as the flowers are
over, cut the shoots well back, thinning out any weak
or useless wood, and give a little more heat and a closer
and moister atmosphere until growth recommences.
Any repotting required may be done when the young
shoots are half an inch or so long. Cuttings of young
shoots, about four inches long, inserted in sandy soil in a
close frame, may be rooted in a few weeks' time. The
young plants must be stopped frequently to induce a stocky
foundation, and, as a rule, they are better if not allowed
to flower until they are a couple of years old.

THE GREENHOUSE.

DATES ON WHICH TO STOP CHRYSANTHEMUMS

(H. M.). — Treat the varii'ties as friUows : Countess of
Granard, D. B. Crane, H. E. Converse, Lady Talbot and
Lady Edward Letohworth stop about April 20 and take
the first-crown buds that show in August. They will
appear from tlie 10th to the 25th of that month. William
Turner, Lady Francis Ryder, Thorp's Beauty and Mary
Poulton stop about the middle of April and again in the
middle of May, and take second-crown buds which Avill
show during the latter part of August. F. Chandler
and Hon. Mr?. Lopes should be stopped on April 20 and
first crowns taken. The variety Mjs. Gilbert Drabble
should be stopped during the last week in March and
first-crown buds taken; these will not show too soon in
the ordinary way. The other varieties, Mrs. A. T. Miller,
Mrs. L. Thor.i, White Queen and Francis Jolliffe, should
be allowed to make natural breaks, and natural first crowns
taken.

PERPETUAL-FLOWERING CARNATIONS {W. D. S.).
— As your plants are in such good coudition, we should
certainly advise you to allow them to fiower in the pots
they are now growing in, as any disturbance at the present
time would cause a severe check. Then, when the flowers
are over, the plants may be shortened back, not cut down
too hard, and after this operation, when the new growth
commences to show, they may be repotted and grown
on for another season. For the second year pots from
6 inches to 9 inches in diameter can be employed, the
size depending upon the vigour of the specimens. These
may be treated in the same way as you successfully
followed in the past. If you like, you may plant them
out in the border when the season is sufficiently advanced
to admit of this being done : but this treatment is not
invariably a success, some varieties being better suited
to it than others. Taken altogether, we think you will
derive greater pleasure from growing them a second
year in pots than from planting them outdoors.

DIOSMA DYING (Anxious). — Judging by the specimen
sent, your Diosma is too far gone to restore to health,
whatever treatment you may give it. There is little
doubt that it has been practically dying for a long time,
and whatever is done now will only hasten the dissolution.
In order to keep this Diosma in health, it needs a minimum
winter temperature of 45'', rising 10° or so during the day.
A free circulation of air, too, is very necessary to its well-
doing. A compost of good peat and sand pressed down
firmly will suit it well. You may, if you like, try to
renovate your plant by syringing it with one of the
several insecticides, say, prepared paraffin emulsion,
or Fir tree oil, but be sure to keep well within the strength
recommended by the vendor. Diosmas are increased by
means of cuttings, put firmly into pots of very sandy peat,
placed in the warmest and shadiest part of the greenhouse,
and covered with a bell-glass. In order, however, to
strike them successfully, good, healthy cuttings are
absolutely necessary. After having disposed of the scale,
you might, if von are inclined to try, cut it back ; but,
as above stated, we should not be very hopeful of the
result. If cut back, it would bo a help to bedew it over
with the syringe two or three times a day.

■«a. ^fey-

-^-s-

GARDEN.

Z^*

^i>^

No. 2156.— Vol. LXXVII.

March 15, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes of thb Wlek
Correspondence
A well -flow t! I ed

Cyclamen . .
Varieties of Saxi-

fraga Boydii
Diascia liarbene as

a pcrfcnnial. .
The Valerian . .
Echium Wildpretii
Mysterious disease of
Hyacinths . .
Forthcoming events..
A SixTi^RNTH Cen-
tury Vineyard at
H A D H A M Hall.
Hertford . . i:

A 2Dod dry-weather

plant 1:

Fighting Spring Frosts

How to protect fruit

blossom . . . . 1;

The Heath Garden 1

Trees and Shrubs

Veronica hulkeana

in Ireland . . .. l:
Some Kood and in-
teresting shrubs:
The Ccanothuaes
Flower Garden
Reliable Lilies for
the outdoor gar-
den

130

131
131
131

131
131

129 Coloured Plate
I Montbretia Star of
1 the East . . . . 135

130 I Science in Relation to
I Horticulture

Shortening the rest
period in plants. . 136
Greenhouse

A rare and beautiful
Rhododendron . . 136
Gardening for Beginners
Increasing the

choicer Primroses 137
How to treat bed-
ding-out Calceo-
larias 137

Raising Honesty
(Lunaria) from

seed 137

g.vkdenino op the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 138

1 For Northern gar-

I dens 1.38

Daffodil Notes
j Daffodils at Vincent
! Square .. ., 139

New & Rare Plants 139
NuRPERY Notes

Annuals at Reading 140
Answers to Corre-
spondents
135 Flower garden .. 140

134

ILLaSTRATIONS.

Saxifraga Faldonside 130

Saxifraira Faldonside 130

Plan of a supposed sixteenth century vineyard . . 131

Thermometer that gives an alarm at 30" Fahr. . . 132

A " Norbury " heater with cover on ready for use . . 132

One of the '■ Norbury '* heaters in action 133

Veronica hulkeana at Corke Abbey. Bray. Ireland . . 134

Ceaiiothus thyrsiflorus at Corke Abbey, Bray . . . . 135

Montbretia Star of the East Coloured plate

A beautiful Rhododendron (R. Schlippenbachii) .. 136

Increasing the choicer Primrose-- 137

Mazus rugosus 139

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes ^
biU he icill not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, unll be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It mmt be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

fices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

An Eflective Floral Combination. — A tew

days ago we were much interested to see a large
vase filled with Harbinger Wallflower aiid the
scarlet Anemone fulgens. Without seeing it
one might well imagine that such a combination
would be far from pleasing, but we have seldom
seen a better harmony of colours. The vase was
seen in electric light, and the effect might not be
"'lite so good under natural conditions.

''yjmning Ivy on Walls. — We are often asked
which is the best time of the year for cutting back
Ivy on walls or fences, and for the benefit of those
in doubt we may say that there is no belter time
than March for carrying out this work. By trim-
ming Ivy at this time of the year, new leaves are
quickly formed to take the place of those removed,
whereas by trimming Ivy in the autimin, the walls
or fences appear bare throughout the winter; ;
and the great charm of Ivy is that it is the best
evergreen climber for winter effect.

A Free-Flowering Heath. — Erica lusitanica,
perhaps better known in gardens as E. codonodes,
is one of the most accommodating Heaths for the
garden. It succeeds in almost any soil, providing
lime is not too abimdant. This Heath attains
a height of from 3 feet to 9 feet, and its small,
bell-shaped flowers in white and pink are produced
very freely indeed. Many gardens are now looking
the brighter for this beautiful Heath. It is a native
of Southern Europe, and is allied to E. arborea,
which it resembles. It may be relied upon for
flowering from the present time until midsummer.

A Useful British Saxifrage. — Of the number
of alpmes that flower in March, it is doubtful if
any are more generally appreciated than the
popular Saxifraga oppositifolia. It is everybody's
plant, so easily is it grown in the rock garden.
Its bright purple flowers are freely sprinkled over
the creeping foliage. It is interesting to note that
S. oppositifolia is a native of Britain, occurring
wild in the mountains of Scotland. There are
I many beautiful forms in cultivation, such as
1 ma.Kima, splendidissima, alba, grandiflora and
coccinea. This lovely native hybridises with S.
biflora and gives S. Kochii.

Blue-Flowering Plant for the Conservatory.

There is a handsome member of the Gentian
family, known as Eustoma russeHianum, that is
an e.xcellent subject for the conservatory. The
usual flowering period is June and July, when the
plants are covered with a profusion of large, cup-
i shaped, deep blue flowers from 4 inches to 5 inches
1 across. Seed of this plant should be sown in pots
\ or pans at the end of March on the surface of light
soil and be placed on a little bottom-heat. Occa-
sionally the plant is met with imder the name of
Lisianthus russeUianus, but it is surprising that
it is so little known. A native of Texas and
I Mexico, it was first introduced into this country
in 1804.

The Water Lily Tulip. — There are few more
pleasing flowers in the outdoor garden just now
than this beautiful TuUp, known to botanists as
Tulipa kaufmanniana. On a sunny day, when
the flowers are fuUy expanded and their exquisite
beauty fully revealed, they much resemble minia-
tiu'e Water Lilies. The creamy yellow coloiur,
with rich yellow base, looks particularly fresh
and sprmg-Uke, and it is difficult to understand
why this Tulip is not more extensively planted.
Possibly it is just a little too expensive and variable
in its behaviour, but it is a gem among spring
flowers.

How to Prune Buddleia variabilis.— The
several varieties of this useful flowering shrub,
notably veitchiana and magnifica, are now to be
found in many gardens, but the correct method
of pruning does not appear to be generally under-
stood. The best plan is to cut them well back
at the present time, removing at least two-thirds
of the young wood that was formed last year,
and which, in some instances, still carries the old
flower-heads. This will induce vigorous growths,
that will flower well in late summer. After the
pruning, a generous mulching with short manure
should be given.

Giant-Flowered Asters. — The season for
sowing seeds of Asters being at hand, attention
may be drawn to a comparatively new and improved'
type of undoubted merit. In Sutton's Mammoth
Aster we have one of the largest types of the Chinese
Aster in cultivation. Growing 2J feet to 3 feet
in height, the large, bushy plants produce corre-
spondingly large blooms, resembling the flowers-
of the Japanese Chrysanthemum. Borne on long,
stiff stalks, the flowers are unsiurpassed for vase
decoration, and they are also of considerable
value for borders. In addition to a wide range
of colours from a mixed packet of seeds, six distinct
shades of colour are offered separately, namely,
dark blue, lavender, old rose, scarlet, shell pink,
and white.

A Beautiful Golden Bell. — The superiority of

Forsythia interiuejia spectabilis over the ordinary
intermedia is very marked, for the flowers are
brighter coloured, rather larger and produced
with greater freedom ; therefore it should be selected
in preference to the type when one sort only is
required. The Forsythias, as a whole, are easily-
managed shrubs, for, providing they are planted
in moderately good, loamy soil, they give little
trouble save for an occasional thinning, which should
be done as soon a? the flowers fade. They are
also easily propagated, for cuttings of short young
shoots inserted in sandy soil in a close frame in
June root in from two to three weeks' time. An
excellent way to use this and other Forsythias
is to plant them in masses with a carpet of Chiono-
doxas or late-flowering Crocuses, for then the
golden, bell-shapcd flowers of the shrubs expand
at the same time as those of the carpet plant below,
and a charming effect is produced.

130

THE GARDEN.

[March 13. 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

[The Editor is not responsible ;or the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

A Well-Flowered Cyclamen. — As a reader of
The Garden I have been interested in recent
notes on Cyclamen. Although I have none of
venerable age, I enclose a photograph, taken about
a month ago, of a two years old plant. When
photographed it was carrying fifty expanded
flowers, but since that time it has carried as many
as seventy-two at one time. It is growing in a
7-inch pot. Plants twelve months old have been

more worthy of a place in the first fifty. Where are
the plants to supply bloom during the dull winter
months and late autumn when our herbaceous
borders are almost bare ? Take, for instance, the
pretty lonopsidium acaule, Saxifraga Cymbalaria,
in flower all the autumn and winter except when
covered with snow. Cyclamen Coum and
C. europaeum between them supply bloom
nearly all the year round, and C. repandum is
superior to C. neapolitanum. Also Pulmonaria
arvernense, backed up with Erica carnea, is lovely
during February and March. What have Cypri-
pedium spectabile and C. Calceolus done ? They
are no harder to manage than those two beautiful

i

SAXIFRAGA FALDONSIDE,

A BEAUTIFUL YELLOW-FLOWERED VARIETY OF THE BOYDII
SECTION. {Slightly reduced.'^

carrying thirty flowers. — R. T. Saunders, Park-
henver Gardens, Redruth, Cornwall. [The photo-
graph sent by our correspondent showed a very
good plant, but was, unfortunately, not quite
suitable for reproduction. — Ed.]

Glory of the Snow (Chionodoxa sardensis). —

The question is sometimes asked : " Which is the
most effective of the Glories of the Snow for planting
in grass ? " For distant effect I have seen nothing
to surpass Chionodoxa siurdensis, which, though
smaller in bloom and more drooping than the others,
is self-coloured, or practically so, and gives a more
telling appearance at a distance. It is generally
free from the white eye of C. LuciliaD, C. Tmoliisii
and some others, but in a few cases C. sardensis
has a white eye. It is an easily-cultivated species,
but, like its sister flowers, appears to prefer deep
planting, and if planted too shallow will in time
gradually find its way more deeply into the ground.
Some people are under the impression that it is
called C. sardensis because it grows on the spot
where stood the City of Sardis ; but this is an error,
as it was so named by Mr. E. Whittall, its finder,
because the ruins of Sardis could be seen from the
place where it was found. — S. Arnott.

The Fifty Best Alpines. — In The Garden of
March i, page 115, you have an article by Mr. S.
Amott on " The Fifty Best Alpines for Small
Gardens." I consider there are a great many plants

gems, Haberlea rhodopensis and Ramondia, of
which R. pyrenaica is the best. There is also the
lovely Cytisus kewensis var. heufellianus. Why
not Arenaria montana grandiflora, also A. balearica
to cover some of the boulders ? Why miss Erinus
alpinus and Saponaria ocymoides, Gentiana, at
least acaulis ; Phlox pilosa, much more free
flowering than the setacea group ; Phlox divaricata
Laphamii, Primulas capitata and cashmeriana,
Draba pyrenaica, Achillea umbellata. Anemone
blanda, Aubrietia Fire King, Campanula G. F.
Wilson, Dianthus alpinus and D. caesius, both
easier to grow than the varied forms of D. iieglectus ;
Hutchinsia alpina. Lychnis alpina, and Saxifraga
bathoniensis as one of the Saxifragas ? — G. F.
Hvland, The Gardens, Ashby St. Ledgers, Rugby.

Mr. Lester Morse on Sweet Peas. — Americans
are a strenuous and go-ahead race, and rarely do
things by halves, and I have just received from
Mr. Lester Morse a copy of his " Bulletin on Spencer
Sweet Peas," in which these qualities arc strikingly,
even startlingly, exemplified. Mr. Morse has set
to work with the very excellent motive of {inter
alia) cutting down the list of names of the Spencer
varieties ; but I am disposed to think, and I feel
that a good many others will agree with me, that
the conclusions he arrives at are much too downright
and sweeping. To give an instance or two :
What keen expert will agree with Mr. Morse %vhen

he tells us that Margaret Madison and Walter P.
Wright are practically identical with Seamew ?
What bold man will back him up when he classes
Melba as " practically the same thing as Barbara " ?
Then he sums up Aurora Spencer as similar to Mrs.
W. J. Unwin, but larger. This may be so, but it
is not my experience, and, indeed, I think that
Mrs. W. J. Unwin, shown as finely as it was at
the National Show two years ago, was very nearly,
if not quite, the largest flower in the show. The
raisers of Sweet Peas are but human, and some of
tliem will find their corns unmercifully trodden
upon by Mr. Morse. He has discovered, for
example, that Paradise is " precisely the same
thing " as Countess Spencer, and that Evelyn
Hemus and Mrs. Breadmore are " precisely the
same thing." What, I wonder, will be said to
this by a celebrated lady raiser. On the whole.
I am disposed to think it is rather a good thing
for Mr. Morse that a good broad strip of blue ocean
separates him from the British raiser. With some
of his conclusions, however, I am in eminent
agreement, and the unstinted praise which he
gives to Stirling Stent for its non-burning qualities
is amply justified here. — F. Herbert Chapman.
Varieties of Saxifraga Boydii. — It is more than

a little remarkable that while the merits of the
original S. Boydii were recognised by a first-class
certificate so long ago as March, iSgr, the even
more beautiful S. Faldonside only received recog-
nition on the 4th of the present month, when a
charmingly-flowered example was exhibited by
Sir Everard Hambro, K.C.V.O., from his wonderful
collection of these things at Hayes. The apparent
omission may be due to a variety of causes, though
chiefly, perhaps, because S. Faldonside has never
before been presented to the floral committee
under its correct name. The same variety has,
however, been repeatedly exhibited in collections,
though usually as S. Boydii, and the knowledge
that the latter kind had already received the highest
award of a first-class certificate precluded its being
again presented. It is now many years ago since
I first recognised the superiority of some forms ot
S. Boydii over others, both in the matter of outline,
size of flower and colouring, and I concluded it
was impossible that all could have been raised from
one stock plant originally. This idea so grew
upon me — it was patent almost to the ordinary
observer of such things — that I presently com-
municated with Mr. Boyd, the brother of the raiser
of the original plant, askuig for information. To
the direct question as to whether all the Boydii then
existing were the outgrowth of a solitary individual,
I received in effect this most useful informative reply.
" The original Boydii first appeared as a solitary
plant. Subsequently, however, seedlings were
raised from it, and these, upon flowering, were
considered, some sufficiently near to, and others so
identical with, the original that all were distributed
under the one name. Later developments however,
made it plain that some forms were vastly superior
to others." Hence it is that in gardens to-day,
and in those more particularly where the entire
stock has been raised from a solitary plant, it
might prove to be wholly Boydii or wholly Faldon-
side. The latter is a perfectly circular flower,
the petals broad and overlapping without inter-
vening spaces, the flower remaining slightly saucer-
formed almost to the last. The clear yellow colour
is enhanced by its sparkling effects. I regard this as
the finest jewel in the Boydii crown. A good idea
of its size and form may bs had from the accompany-
ing illustration. By some it is regarded as the best
grower. — E. H. Jenkins.

March 15, 1913.]

TliE G^UIUEN.

131

Diascia Barberae as a Perennial. — It was

interesting to road in The Gardes for March i,
page 102, that others have found Diascia Barber*
to be a perennial. Here it has remained outside
for several seasons ; m fact, it seemed more at
home without protection than with it. On the
rockery it is a great feature, but I must confess
that when grown as an annual it blooms more-freely
and gives finer flowers. I use it freely in place of
Xemesia, as its flowering season lasts until late in
the autumn. It maybe mistaken for the latter at
first sight. — M. Nicholi.s, The Gardens, Si. Clere,
Kemsing, near Sevciioaks, Kent.

The Valerian. — Your note re Valerian on
page xxii, of March i issue is very interesting.
There is no doubt that the Valerian (Centranthus
ruber), commonly called " Pretty Betsy," is a sea-
loving plant. Round here it grows freely on any
<ild wall, and flourishes amazingly. Anyone who
has seen the rocks at Barmouth covered with this
plant must hav.- been struck by the wonderful
blaze of colour. I must say it is a handsome plant
and a very telling colour. — J. S. Higgi.ns, Glyn-
llirou dardi'ns, Carnarvon.

Ecbium Wildpretii. — I see in The Garden
for February 22 a reply to " E. T. D." about an
Echium. I have a seedling, raised from seed
sent me from a plant of my own growing in
Alassio, that is everybody's admiration. If it is
the kind your correspondent wants, and he will
send me his address, I will gladly give it him, or her,
if the carriage is paid. My plant is of the clear
blue kind, and bears huge spikes or clubs of flowers
Dut there. I am not sure of the right name. It
will not stand frost unless well covered, and plants
bloom the second year from seed. — (Mrs.) Gertrude
E. West, Sliidc Villa, near Newport, Isle of Wight.

Mysterious Disease of Hyacinths. — I am

much interested in Mr. Pearson's article in The
Garden for February 22 re eelworms. My bulbs
have been worried by them lately, especially last
spring, and I thought it was my ignorance, as I
had not had a greenhouse before. I had a collec-
tion of Lilies from Ant. Roozen given to me. For
some time they did very well ; then the buds
began to dry up, and 1 found the roots were as
described in the article referred to, and nearly
all my bulbs arc spoilt. But they were not content :
they killed my Primulas, spread into other things —
Sutherlandia and Arums — and ate up all my seeds.
I tried everything I could think of to get rid of
them, washing the bulbs and repotting in soil
that had been dressed with Vaporitc. I may
say that I had no trouble vmtil one Lily had some
stable manure in the soil. I noticed every pot
that was infested with eelworm had little black
flies, with white bands on the body, dead on the
soil. This year I have learnt that Oats suffer
from a frit fly which produces eelworm. Is it
possible that the eggs of the fly could have been
in the Oats which came into the stables ? I have
only used artificial manure this year, and have,
I hope, got rid of the eelworms. I had potted
Hyacinths which I had last year, and had to burn
them all. — B. Hall. [Mr. Pearson, in his article,
did not attribute the trouble to eelworms, but to
a fungoid disease. — Ed.]

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
March 18.— Royal Horticultural Society's Exhi-
bition at Vincent Square, Westminster. Lecture
at 3 p.m. by Mr. R. Lloyd Praeger. F.L.S,, on
' The Romance of Weeds."

A SIXTEENTH CENTURY
VINEYARD AT HADHAM
HALL, HERTFORD.

GARDENING has its antiquarian side,
and I have lately found in the
kitchen garden here something which
may be of interest to those who care
for the history of gardens. This
house is an old one, built cina
1572 by Henry Capell, and was, in those days, all
that a first-class English country house could be.
For reasons which, to save your space, I do not here
enter into, the Capell family left it in 1667, when
most of it was pulled down, the little that was left
becoming a farmhouse.

In 1901 it again became a residence, and, living
here since that date, I have endeavoured to find
out all that the house and garden were at their best.
Partly guided by old pictures and partly by
excavations, I have restored, on paper, the founda-
tains, terraces, pavilions and statues which went
to make up a garden of that date. But besides
all these, I have foimd one feature of special interest.
I had to make a kitchen garden, and for the pur-
pose chose a spot some 335 feet long by 200 feet
wide, which offered the protection on the north
and east of the old curtilage wall of 1572, which
yet remained standing. Certain failures among

for a vineyard. We know that houses of this
stamp, at that date, all had vineyards ; but
I have searched in vain in many gardening
books of the period for any suggestion of this
way of laying them out.

And, yet, what could be better ? .■\spect due
south, a protecting wall on all sides, those on the
south and west kept, as we must think, low, the sun
would strike directly into the bays of the six Vine
walls, nor would the shade from these aflect the wall
behind if their height was limited to, say, 5 feet,
which would amply suffice for a Vine. The Vines
planted in the angles of the bays would not only
catch the direct sun, but their branches, spreading
right and left along the faces of the bays, would
also gain somewhat of reverberated heat. Sheltered
in the bays, moreover, the Vines would be well
protected from the bite of any east or west wind
•vliich might strike into the enclosure. The spaces
between the walls would, of course, have been avail-
able for ordinary garden purposes, while the reverse
side of the walls could have served for Plums and
Cherries.

Everything seems to point to the arrangement
being intended for a vineyard,- though, as I say, I
can nowhere find any support for the theory. I
should be deeply grateful to any of your readers who
could, from a better knowledge of, gardens of the
sixteenth century, establish it aS a fact. Once
discovered, it seems strange that the idea has not

PLAN OF A SUPPOSED SIXTEENTH CENTURY VINEYARD AT HADHAM HALL, HERTS.

young Apple trees led me to search at their
roots for the reason, where I found founda-
tions of brick walls some 2 feet down. These
I followed up, and the plan, which represents
what was found, will need but few words of
explanation.

The oblong space, now the kitchen garden, runs
east and west in its longer direction. Still bounded
on the north and east by the old curtilage walls,
similar, though no doubt lower, walls enclosed it
on the south and west. Inside this enclosure,
and running parallel with its longer axis, were six
walls, built in zigzags, so as to form bays, of which
there were eleven in each wall, making sixty-six
in all. These six walls were equidistant throughout
their length and 27 feet apart.

I can see but one possible explanation for such
an arrangement, namely., that it was meant

survived ; for, though we no longer grow Vines in the
open, yet such an arrangement would surely be of
advantage for our wall fruit. William Minet.

Hadham Hall, Little Hadham, Hertfordshire.

[We shall be glad to receive brief comments on
the interesting points raised by our correspondent.]
—Ed.]

A GOOD DRY-WEATHER PLANT.

During the scorching days of summer, when the
majority of the occupants of the herbaceous border
are looking far from happy, it is always of interest
and usefulness to note anv that- £&>^ar to revel

in the brilliant sunshine and nfjra^ mind the
drought One such is ^he.GaiHardrai'.or Blanket
Flower, the perennial sort that comes .up year after
year and gives us its charming flowers so profusely
over so long a period. ' • '

132

THE GAKDEN.

[March 15, 1913.

FIGHTING SPRING FROSTS.

HOW TO PROTECT FRUIT BLOSSOM.

ALTHOUGH the protection of fruit blossom
/\ from late spring frosts by means of

/ % smudge fires has been extensively
^"^^ carried out for some years in California
• * and ether parts of America, there are

but few places in this country where
the method has been given a thorough and exhaus-
tive trial. It has been contended in many direc-
tions that the rhmatic conditions here do not
lend themselves to its successful adoption, and,
further, that the protection is too expensive to
make it worth while. The latter excuse can at
the outset be dismissed, because if the use of smudge
fires means the difference between a full crop of
fruit and a very poor one, it will certainly pay for
doing. The position of the grower is this : For a
whole year he has tended his trees, cultivated and
manured the soil, and gone to a great deal of
expense in bringing the trees to as fruitful a

-THE MA.XIMUM AND MINIMUM THERMOMETER, THE MERCURY OF
WHICH MAKES A CONNECTION AND SO GIVES THE ALARM WHEN
2° OF FROST ARE REGISTERED. THE PLATINUM WIRE AT

30° FAHR. IS INDIC.\TED BY THE ARROW.

condition as he knows how. Then one night's frost
when the blossoms are open may mean the partial
or total loss of this outlay of time and money, a
loss that might, as we shall endeavour to show,
be to a great extent obviated by the further outlay
of a few pounds per acre in fighting the sprmg
frosts.

One of the few places where smudge fires have
been extensively and successfully used in this
country is The Norrest, near Malvern in Worcester
shire. Here Mr. F. Paget Norbury has an extensive
fruit farm that is run on up-to-date and stricth
commercial lines, and it is by his courtesy that
we are able to place before our readers particulars
of his efforts in combating spring frosts. Owing
to curious climatic conditions that exist at Tht
Norrest Farm, the fields occupied by Apples are
not affected by these frosts ; but in another
direction the Black Currant plantations, of which
we have never seen finer, are particularly susceptible
to damage, and it is here that the smudge fires
have been successfully utilised for the last six
years. Believing as he does that if a thing is
worth doing at all it is worth
doing well, .Mr. Norbury has
had wires fixed on insulated
poles from the field to his
house, where they are con-
nected to an electric alarm
bell, the power for which is
derived from an ordinary cell
battery. On a post in the field
a thermometer is fixed about
three feet from the ground,
as shown in Fig. i. This
thermometer is a maximum
and minimum recorder, and at
two places a thin platinum wire
has been carried through the
tube by the manufacturer. As
will be seen by the arrow,
one of these wires goes through
the tube at 30° Fahr., or 2^ of
frost. To these platinum
wires the transmitting wires
are attached, and when the
mercury reaches the 30' mark
it effects the connection and
the alarm is given in the
bedroom. When this happens,
Mr. Norbury promptly tele-
phones to one of his men who
lives close to the plantation,
and he in turn arouses two
more, who proceed with torches
and light the smudge fires as
quickly as possible. By the
time the owner reaches the
scene these are well on the
way, and are kept burning
until after sunrise. Just before
sunrise dense smoke is created
by adding fresh fuel so that
the direct rays of the sun do
not strike the flowers.

The fires are made in
pots designed by Mr. Norbury,
in place of the funnel-shaped
Colorado heaters, which are
of flimsy construction. The
outer construction of these is
well shown in Fig. 2. These
smudge pots are filled with
straw, specially prepared chips
and soft coal, so that a

2. A "NoKlilKV HEATER WITH COVER ON

READY FOR USE.

dense smoke and some considerable warmth
are created when the fires are lighted. When
the fruit blossom is about to open, these
heaters are placed in position, and torches
and additional fuel placed in readiness for im-
mediate use. During a period of six years
Mr. Norbury has found it necessary to light the
fires about a dozen times, or an average of two
nights each spring, sometimes for only a few hours
per night.

It will, no doubt, be argued that such elaborate
precautions are expensive and scarcely worth while ",
but the outlay, t.iking one year with another, is not
excessive, and the saving in fruit very considerable.
The cost of the Norbury heaters, such as we illus-
trate, and which are made locally under Mr. Nor-
bury*s supervision, is 2S. 6d. each, carriage paid,
and forty-eight are required for each acre. Thus
the initial outlay on pots is /6 per acre. Cut those
illustrated have been in use six years, and will
probably last another six, so that the cost per
annum for these is about ten shillings per acre.
Naturally, the cost of fuel will be rather a heavy
item, but then it is only burned if absolutely
necessary.

The thermometer illustrated cost los. fd.
and the installation of wires and bell was not a
heavy item. From experience gained, Mr.
Norbury does not think it necessary to have
the thermometer fixed fir away from the house,
so long as it is in an exposed position and
at the proper height from the ground. The
temperature at the same altitude within a mile
radius is not likely to vary more than 1° or 2°,
and this, once local conditions had been fully
studied and mastered, could be allowed for.
Judging by what we saw at Mr. Norbury's farm and
by what he told us, the protection of fruit blossom
in this way might be successfully carried out
in almost any part of the country. At the Wor-
cestershire County. Council's experimental gardens
at Droitwich these heaters have been successfully
employed by the superintendent, Mr. James Udale.
for the protection of Apple blossom, and have proved
far more economical and effective than the Colorado
h eaters.

March 15. 19 [3.]

THE GAKJJEN.

133

THE HEATH GARDEN.

(Continued from page 120.)

JUNE is perhaps the month in which we
find the smallest nmnber of hardy
Heaths in flower, that is, at the full
expanse of their beauty, for those that
were in full flower during April and May
have by no means ceased to provide some
colour effect in their respective beds, as the plants
retain their flowers and colour, though somewhat
faded, for a long time after they have lost their
freshness,. The later-flowering varieties, too, when
only in bud provide a certain amount of colour
as a promise of what may be enjoyed in the near
future. The varieties, then, that we may expect
to find in full flower in the month of June are
restricted to two, so far as I can gather from my
own observations. These are Erica australis
and E. Stuartii, two plants with very different
habits, the former being about three feet high,
\Wth flowers of a curious shade of colour, which,
for want of abetter description, I would call purplish
red. E. Stuartii is a neat little plant about si.x
inches high, with pretty, rose-coloured flowers,
and forms a suitable subject for a comfortable
pocket in the rock garden.

l''rom July to September a very large number
will be found in flower, and, as little difference
<an be noted as to their respective times for
flowering, I give them in alphabetical order. E.
Lawsonii, a neat-growing dwarf variety with
flowers of a clear red shade, forms a suitable
subject for edging E. mackayana, a very pretty
red variety growing about nine inches high, also
a double-flowered form of the same, fotmd in
Connemara, give a pleasing variety among a class
of plants represented principally by single flowers.
E. mediterranea multifiora is the only one in the
Mediterranean group that flowers in autumn,
all the otliers flowering in spring. Tfiis is a distinct
and striking variety, having white flowers with
prominent chocolate-coloured anthers. A bed of
smaller dimensions might be filled with the last
three sorts mentioned, none of these being tall '
growers. H. m. multiflora should occupy the
centre, with E. mackayana next, either in broad
bands oT suitable-sized patches, and E. Lawsonii
near the margin.

The Cross-leaved Heath. — E. Tetralix is

one of the most distinct of the whole genus,
Imown as the Cross-leaved Heath. The whole
plant when not in flower is of a greyish hue. Most
of the varieties are about six inches high, a few
attaining the height of 9 inches to 12 inches. E.
Tetralix, pale red, also a white-flowered variety,
alba, and another, alba major, having somewhat
larger flowers, are similar in habit. Another
■white variety called molle has slightly shorter
and denser flower-spikes, but otherwise similar ,
to the former. Pallida resembles the last named
except in colour, which is of a very light shade of
red. E. T. praicox grows somewhat taller than
any of the above-named, and has white flowers.
.M\ are, however, of neat habit, and suitable alike
for the rock or Heath garden. The characteristic
peculiarities of the foliage of this section are at all
times striking and attractive. A new variety,
a hybrid between E. TetraUx and E. cUiaris, and
named E. T. Watsonii, is well worthy of being
included in the list. The flowers are of a pretty
rose pink colour. The plant is a free and vigorous
grower, with attractive foliage.

The Cornish Heath (E. vagans) is perhaps the
most vigorous of all the autumn-flowering Heaths,

and although none of its varieties exceed 18 inches
in height, they soon form large masses, and are
therefore invaluable for planting in quantity
cither in the Heath garden proper or for clothing
banks where the soil may be too poor for the
free growth of shrubs. I have also used this
extensively for edgings to walks, and if clipped
immediately after it has passed out of flower,
it will keep in good order for a number of years
before it requires replanting. The type is repre-
sented by a plant of compact growth about twelve
inches high, bearing flowers of a pale purplish
red colour, freely produced on slender, wiry stems
that are not easily damaged by rough usage.
Alba {the white form), camea (pink) and pallida
(flesh-coloured) differ only in colour from the
first named ; but a variety called nana, possessing
a dwarf and neat habit, not exceeding 6 inches in

Grampians. There are numerous varieties of this
popular Heath, some of which make excellent
subjects for grouping in the grounds either in large
masses of one colour or judiciously mixed in beds.
The white varieties are in much demand, and must
be a source of industry in some districts, judging
from the quantities that are to be seen on sale as
cut flowers.

White Heather for luck, besides bemg the
badge of a Highland clan, is in much demand for
wedding bouquets, and there are few sportsmen who
will not sacrifice the chance of a good shot to stoop
and pluck a sprig of white Heather when dis-
covered amid a- sea of the common purple variety.
In the selection of the finest of a long list of varieties
of E. vulgaris, we would give first place to E. v.
Haramondii, closely followed by E. v. Alportii
and E. v. Scarlii, the former being a very free

-ONE OF THE NORBURV HEATERS IN ACTION. NOTE THE DENSE CLOUD OF
SMOKE THAT IS EMITTED.

height, is quite distinct. E. v. rubra is the tallest
of the group, attaining a height of t8 inches
when in full growth, with flowers of a bright red
coloiur.

E. Veitchii is a lovely white hybrid obtained
from crossing E. arborea and E. codonodes.
This novelty we have as yet only seen as pot
specimens, but from its general appearance
it gives promise of being a valuable addition to an
already extensive collection.

Common Heather or Ling. — E. vulgaris (Caiiuna
vulgaris), is too well known to need description,
Clothing our hills and moors, where during
the autumn months it transforms the whole
landscape into a rich purple mass, presenting
a picture of rare beauty not easily forgotten,
especially by those who view it for the first time
on a bright autumn day on the slopes of the

growing variety about eighteen inches high, with
white flowers produced on fairly long spikes and
forming a less compact but more graceful-looking
bed than many of the others. E. v. Alportii is
a very pretty dark red variety growing about
one foot high, and where beds of mixed colours
are favoured, this makes a fine companion for
E. v. Haramondii.

E. V. Searlii is conspicuous even when not in
flower owing to the mossy appearance of its foliage
which is further enhanced on the appearance of
the flowers, which are pure white, of fine form and
substance. The whole plant does not exceed
12 inches in height. E. v. .alba and E. v. alba
minor partly convey in the names their general
description. .-Vrgentea has beautiful silvery
foliage, and aurea golden. On a first acquamtance
with the last named one might be forgiven for

134

I'llK GAUUEA.

[March 15, 1913

assuming that the plant was in an unhealthy
condition, the appearance from a little distance
being a sickly yellow colour in the foliage. Cuprea
possesses a distinct bronzy foliage, which is more
pronounced in winter than in summer.

The variety flore pleno should not be omitted,
as its double red flowers, having a silvery sheen,
are very attractive. The plant is free-flowering,
with a compact habit. A few other varieties of
vulgaris worthy of mention are decumbens alba,
tomentosa alba, hypnoides, pilosa, pygmea and
rigida. These are of slow growth, and are better
adapted for the rock garden than the Heath garden.

Ghimis. T. Wilson.

{To bt' continued.)

TREES AND SHRUBS.

VERONICA HULKEANA IN IRELAND.

THE owners of gardens in the Midlands
and North of England cannot appre-
ciate the value of the New Zealand
shrubby Veronicas to the same extent
as those people who have gardens in
the South-West Counties, in South
Wales, West of Scotland and in Ireland, for in those
places shrubby Veronicas are looked upon as a
necessity in every garden of any pretensions,

leaves less than an inch long. The flowers are lilac
or pale mauve in colour, and are produced in very
large terminal panicles, which are peculiarly
graceful and pleasing. Under pot cultivation it
gives the best results when raised from cuttings
at least every second year, but when grown under
more generous border conditions it continues to
give good results for a number of years. D.

SOME GOOD AND INTERESTING
SHRUBS: THE CEANOTHUSES.

Unfortu-sately, the Ceanothuses are not generally
hardy, otherwise there is little doubt that they
would find a place in every garden, for no shrubs
are more floriferous, while many of them have
the advantage of producing blue flowers, a
colour which is not common among shrubs. In
the milder parts of the British Isles, however, they
may be gro\vn to perfection, while in other places
the hardier kinds can be grown against walls,
though they may fall a prey to cold should a
winter of moderate severity be experienced.

That the plants are quite worthy off wall
space is evident by the illustration on page 135,
which shows a section ol a wall in Sir Edward
Verner's garden at Corke Abbey, Bray, East
Ireland. Sir Edward is a most enthusiastic
gardener, and he takes a keen interest in decorative
plants. In 1006 he decided to give up a considerable

VERONICA HULKEANA IN SIR EDWARD VERNER'.S GARDEN AT CORKE ABBEY, BRAY,

IRELAND.

while even in cottage gardens some of the stronger- area of wall space to Ceanothuses, and in May
growing kinds are used as hedges for dividing one j of that year he planted six small plants of C.
garden from another. Species such as V. speciosa thyrsiflorus from pots in one position. That they
is met with as a bush 4 feet high and 6 feet through, I have thriven remarkably well is evident from the
covered in its proper season with upright spikes ■ photograph, which was taken during the flowermg
of lilac, purple, red, or white flowers, according to period six years later.

variety, while other kinds are quite as conspicuous. ' Fortunately, Ceanoihuses are not very fastidious
The accompanying illustration bears testimony regardmg soil, and providing the climate is right,
to the decorative qualities of V. hulkeana, as it they succeed quite well in any that is of a loamy
is grown in Sir Edward Verner's garden at Corke nature. They may be increased by cuttings of
Abbey, Bray. One of the more delicate species, half-ripe wood, inserted in sandy soil in a close

it is often grown in greenhouses as a pot plant,
but in this beautiful Irish garden it succeeds quite
well in the open. It is naturally of rather loose
habit, with slender branches and broadly oval

frame indoors during the summer, and it is a good
plan to root a few cuttmgs of each of the more
tender kinds each year and keep them under cover
for the winter in case of a mishap. Pruning requires

to be carried out in two different ways, for there
are two distinct groups of the genus which blossom
at different times. Those which bloom in spring
are the more tender, and are usually grown against
walls. They require pruning as soon as the flowers
are over, the pruning taking the form of cutting
back any plants which appear to be outgrowing
their positions and spurring the breast wood back
to the main branches ; but when the same plants
are growing as bushes in the open, practically no
pruning is necessary. The other group blossoms
during the autumn, and it is usual to cut the
various kinds back moderately hard during the
winter or spring. These kinds are frequently
planted in beds in conspicuous positions, while
some of them are grown against pillars or walls.

All the cultivated species are natives of North.
America, the majority being foimd from Oregon
to Southern California, others being met with,
throughout the Eastern United States, Florida
and other parts The best of the spring-flowering
kinds are evergreen in character, whereas those
which bloom in the autumn are deciduous or sub-
evergreen. In the following notes attention is-
directed to the most suitable sorts for gardens.

Spring-Flowering Kinds. — C. cuneatus is a
curious species with rather rigid branches bearing
small leaves and whitish flowers. One of the
hardier kinds, it may be expected to form a small
bush in the open border about London. It is
found from Oregon to South California. C.
divaricatus is an excellent shrub for a wall, while
it succeeds as a bush in the South of England.
Of vigorous growth, it attains a height of quite
15 feet. The branches are somewhat spiny, and
the small, oval leaves are bright and glossy. The
blue flowers appear towards the end of May. C,
integerrimus, like the last-named, is a Califomian
species, and is suitable for wall culture. Bearing
thinner and duller leaves than the majority of the
species, it also diflers by its large heads of light
lilac flowers. C. Fendleri has a rather extended
distribution, for it occurs in Colorado, New Mexico
and Arizona. It is of rather stifi, rigid growth,
with somewhat spiny branches, and bears whitish
flowers. C. papillosus may be readily distin-
guished by its long, narrow, viscid leaves, which are
covered vrith small oil glands. The blue flowers
are produced with great freedom in May. A
native of California, it is one of the tenderer kinds.
C. rigidus is certainly one of the most beautilul
of all the species. Of vigorous habit, it grows
quite 10 feet high, and is recognised by its stiff
branches, small, deeply-cut leaves and rich deep
blue or violet flowers, which commence to open
in April. Found in California, it is sometimes
grown as a bush in the milder parts of the British.
Isles, but is more at home when planted against
a wall. C. thyrsiflorus, sometimes called the
Califomian LUac, is one of the hardiest of the spring-
flowering kinds. The popular C. veitchianus produces
a profusion of showy blue flowers during May.

Late-Flowering Kinds. — Few species are to be
found among the late summer and early autumn
flowering sorts, but the deftciency is amply met
by the many garden hybrids which have been
raised. Some of these are decidedly superior
to the types lor ornamental planting, and flower
continuously over a period of three months. The
two most important species are C. americanus and
C. azureus. The former is widely distributed
through the Eastern United States, where it is
known as the New Jersey Tea on accoimt of its
leaves sometimes being used as a substitute for
Tea. It has whitish flowers and forms a bush

March 15, 1913-]

TliE GAliDEN.

135

3 feet high. There are several varieties, of whicli
nanus roseus, with rose-coloured flowers, and
opacus are most distinct. C. azureus, on the
other hand, forms a bush 3 feet to 4 feet high,
with large terminal panicles of blue flowers. Two
of the most showy garden varieties are grandi-
florus and Gloire de Versailles, both of which are
renowned for their fine inflorescences of bright
blue flowers. Other good kinds are Ceres, rose ;
Albert Petit, rosy lilac ; Brilliant, purplish ;
Cigale, lilac ; Charles Detrich^, blue ; Esperanto,
lilac; Felibre, raauve ; George Simon,
rosy lilac ; Indigo, dark blue ; La
Condamine, mauve ; Perle Rose, rose ;
and Rosamonde, blue.

and the Japanese L. rubellum do not, as a general
rule, last ver>- long. On the other hand, I
have had L. Henryi, L. auratum platyphyllum,
L. chalccdonicum and tne exquisitely odorous
L. speciosum flowering in the same positions for
many years.

The longest-lived of all my Lilies, a magnificent
auratum, was obtained from Messrs. James Carter
and Co. fifteen years ago. I have only to add to
these fragmentary observations that several of
the Oriental Ulies which I have characterised as

Star of the East possesses a stronger constitution
than the old types.

For this beautiful and useful flower, as well as
for a nimiber of other excellent Montbretias, we
arc indebted to Mr. G. Davison, head-gardener at
Wcstwick, Norwich, a full description ot the gardens
there, with a portrait of Mr. Davison, being
published in our issue dated November 30, 1912.
These newer Montbretias have been put into
commerce by Messrs. R. Wallace and Co. of
Colchester, and among those of special merit.

FLOWER GARDEN.

America,
reliable.

RELIABLE LILIES FOR THE
OUTDOOR GARDEN.

THE Lilies that so greatly
adorn our gardens have a
wide distribution, especially
the great Martagon family,
which is found in Southern

Europe, in .\sia, and

Most of these are entirely
Lilium Humboldtii, from far
California, and L. szovitzianum, from
the regions of Northern Persia and
Mount Caucasus, are among the
grandest of the Martagonian repre-
sentatives. The latter is one of the
most majestic Lilies in cultivation.
I have had it occasionally in ray
garden approximating closely to a
height of 9 feet, considerably higher,
Sir Herbert Maxwell tells me, than it
grows at beautiful Monreith, where
" all sorts and conditions " of Lilies
are assiduously and successfully cul-
tivated.

Of the sub-genus Cardiocrinum,
whose membership is somewhat limited,
the most remarkable illustration is
the great Himalayan L. giganteum,
which may expressively be described as a " reliable "
Lily, especially when planted in peaty soil, or in
leaf-mould with a slight mulching of manure.
Its perpetuation is for the most part accomplished
through its offsets, of which the largest usually
survives ; but it takes at the lowest estimate at
least four years to build up its magnificent flowering
bulb. Sir Herbert Maxwell, who exhibits great
patience and perseverance — splendid moral quali-
ties for an earnest horticulturist — in the culture
of this Lily, grows it from seed, which it generates
in vast quantities. The foliage of L. giganteum
is exquisitely heart-shaped, as luminous as that
of the Laurel or the Holly, and is highly ornamental.
There are several other Indian Lilies of distinctive
beauty and characteristics, such as L. nepalense
L. neilgherrense, L. Lowii
superbum (called by Mr.

sulphureum"), which are only suitable for con-
servatory cultivation. L. candidum would im-
doubtedly be one of the most effective and richly-
fragrant flowers for garden cultivation, were it
not subject to the often fatal influences of an
insidious disease. L. longifiorum, though extremely
beautiful, especially in such fine varieties as

CE.\NOTHUS THYRSIFLOKLS AT CORKE .\BBEY, BR.W

PL.^^NTED FROM SMALL

unreUable are quite "hardy" in the catalogues,
but not elsewhere ! David R. Willi.\mson.

Manse of Kirkmaiden, Wigtownshire, Scotland.

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATE 1487.

THE EAST.

T

MONTBRETIA STAR OF

HE year 1912 wiU long be regarded as a
red-letter one in the annals of horti-
culture, and the Montbretia of which
we present a coloured plate with this
issue will long be regarded as an epoch-
making one in the history of hardy
flowers. When shown before the flora! committee
and L. wallchianum j of the Royal Horticultural Society on August 13
Baker of Kew " L. of last year, this Montbretia was awarded a first-
class certificate, a very high honour for a. variety
of any flower, yet it was an honour that was un-
animously agreed upon by the members of the
committee, and one that was fully deserved. We
have only to compare this new-comer, with flowers
nearly four and a-half inches in diameter, with the
old Montbretias that still do duty in many good
Wilsonii and giganteum, is frequently not enduring, gardens to clearly see what a wonderful change
by reason chiefly of its productiveness in the direc- has been brought about — a change that has been
tion of miniature offsets. L. Bro«iiii L. Krameri beneficial in evcrv way, inasmuch as Montbretia

THERE ARE FOUR PLANTS, WHICH WERE
I'OTS IX 1906.

though not so large and brilUant as Star of the
East, mention must be made of Prometheus,
King Edmund, Lord Nelson. Lady Hamilton,
Hereward and Norvic.

Happily, the cultivation of these useful and
beautiful flowers does not call for any great amount
of skill. Mr. Davison believes in selecting a rather
cool position for them, but not one that is shaded
by overhead trees. Then the soil should be well
and deeply dug, and a good amount of leaf-soil
added to it ; and if clay naturally predominates,
some coarse grit or other lightening material
should be well mixed with the whole, a friable
rooting mediimi that contains a good amount
of himius or decaying vegetable matter being the
ideal to aim at. Planting is best done in March,
covering the corms or bulbous-looking roots with
about two inches of soil. Bold groups towards the
front of a mixed border, or lawn beds filled with
them, are very effective during August, September
and October, months when too many of our
herbaceous plants are past their best. When the
tops get blackened by frost, usually at the end of
October, the roots should be lifted, the tops
shortened to about six inches, and then stored in
a cold frame where actual frost can be kept away.
During fine days in winter the stored roots should
have as free ventilation as possible.

136

tup: (jakjjkn

[March 15, 191^.

SCIENCE IN RELATION TO
HORTICULTURE.

SHORTENING THE REST PERIOD
IN PLANTS.
Forcing by Anaesthetics. — Since the early
experiments of Johannsen in 1898 on shortening
the period of rest in plants, the practice of forcing
bulbous plants or certain flowering shrubs by
either the hot-water treatment or by etherisation
has become quite familiar to gardeners. Perennial
plants have an annual period of rest, and under
natural conditions there is a certain normal length
of time spent in this state. Johannsen's discovery
was that this period could be shortened by sub-
jecting the dormant plant to the influence of an
ordinary gaseous anaesthetic, such as chloroform
or ethe'". The vapour acted as a stimulating agent,

means of raisuig very early crops of fruits. In
one experiment, for example, a batch of 600 plants
of the variety Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury was
divided into two equal lots of 300. One lot was
etherised and the other not,_ and both lots were
treated in the way usual in ordinary forcing work.
He reports that the treated plants were always
superior to the untreated ones, that the etherised
lot flowered; as a rule, so much earlier than the
others that the fruits began to ripen about fourteen
days in advance of the untreated lot. He adds
that the method is certainly profitable in the com-
mercial cultivation of the Strawberry.

The dose used was approximately 40Z. of ether
vapour per 10 cubic feet of air in the enclosed
chamber. The time of exposure was varied.
In one experiment the plants were exposed to the
influence of the ether for sixty hours, in another
for forty-eight hoiurs, and it is stated that it makes

a rare and beautiful rhododentro-x (r. schlippenbachil) xow flowering
:n the temperate house at kew.

producing immediate activity, and on condition
that the artificially-awakened life was given a
iavouring temperature, the plant started growth
" right away." In the case of bulbs and flowering
shrubs, where the flower-buds are formed the
previous season, blooms were obtained many weeks
in advance of the untreated plants. It was after-
wards found that immersion in hot water for a
certain length of time produced the same efiect.

Application to Strawberries. — Now Straw-
berries form their trusses of flowers and lay by a
■store of ready-made food in their stools during the
previous season, so that very soon after the starting
•of growth in the spring the flowers push out ;
hence a Strawberry is one of our very earliest fruits.
M. C. Bultel, a French grower, has for several
years (since 1906, in fact) carried on forcing experi-
ments with Strawberries, using etherisation as a

very little difference which is adopted. The longer
time seemed to give only slightly better results.
It will, of course, be understood that advantage
from etherisation can only be obtained by sub-
mitting the plants to the stimulus when they are
in a complete state of rest. If the operation is
delayed until the stools are ready to start growth,
it is obvious that no advantage will be gained bv
etherisation.

Radium Treatment. — As a matter of interest
in connection with this subject, it may be noted
that a German experimenter (H. Molisch) has been
testing the influence of radio-activity upon the
rest period of certain plants. In his first experi-
ments he used not the radium itself, but radium
preparations (being much cheaper), and found that
exposure to radio-active substances acted as a
stimulus exactly in the same way as ether, namely.

it shortened the period of rest and mduced an
early opening of the flower-buds. The subject
used was Syringa vulgaris, or common Lilac.
The time of year was the end of November or the
begmning of December, and the treatment lasted
for two days. In later experiments he used radium
itself, and with better results. It acted well with
Horse Chestnut, not so well with Acer platanoides,
and not at all with common Beech ; but then the
latter, as is well known, does not respond to etherisa-
tion. At present this method is far too expensive,
commercially speaking, to be of pr.ictical utility ;
but, as has been said, it is interesting, especially
as radium emanations e.xert an entirely different
influence upon actively-growing plants than they
do in the case of plants dturing their resting
period, as Molisch proposes presently to show.

As an illustration of the possible utility of radio-
active substances upon plant growth, reference may
be made to Ewart and Nightingall's experiments in
Victoria. These experimenters used finely-crushed
radio-active minerals, which they mixed with soil,
in wliich they raised crops of Wheat with the object
of testing the effect of radio-activity upon growth.
The results are hardly conclusive enough to estab-
lish any theory, but one notable result came out
in the experiment. In cases where the seeds
actually touched particles of the radio-active
mineral, the greatest increase of yield was Jbtained.
D. Houston.

Royal College of Science for Ireland.

THE GREENHOUSE.

A RARE AND BEAUTIFUL
RHODODENDRON.

(R. SCHLIPPENBACHII.)

THIS species is undoubtedly one of
the most beautiful of the Azalea
section of the genus, but, except
in the warmer parts of the British
Isles, it cannot be regarded as hardy.
It may, however, be grown success-
fully in 'pots, and will prove quite an acquisi-
tion in the conservatory during the early spring
months. Although described by Maximowicz in
1863. it does not appear to have been in cultiva-
tion in this country for many years afterwards,
but a plant shown by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons
was awarded a first-class certificate in March,
rSg.). R. Schlippenbachii forms a deciduous
shrub from 3 feet to 5 feet high. The flowers,
which are produced in loose umbels, are abou.
three inches across, of a very pleasing pale rose
colour, having reddish brown spots near the base.
The obovate leaves are borne in whorls at the end
of the branches, and are usually produced after
the flowers open. This Rhododendron is a native of
Manchuria and Japan. It is allied to the well-
known R. sinense (Azalea mollis).

The Rhododendron forming the subject of the
illustration on this page is now flowering in the
Temperate House at Kew, where three compara-
tively small plants, some 3 feet or 4 feet in height,
each carrying a wealth of blossom, have been the
admiration of visitors for some weeks past. This
is certainly one of the most lovely Rhododendrons
of the Azalea section, the delightful flowers, pale
rose in colour, being light and graceful in the
extreme. For pot cultiure as a cool greenhouse or
conservatory plant, this Rhododendron has a great
future before it. It is to be regretted that it was
not given a less unwieldy name. Another species
which somewhat resembles R. Schlippenbachii is
R. Mariesii, a tender Chinese species. W. T.

i

March 15, iqiS-]

THE UAliUKX.

137

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS

INCREASING THE CHOICER PRIMROSES.

THERE are various methods by which
plants are increased, and, perhaps
pxceptinK seeds, propagation by division
is the most important. In fact, it :
the only way to work up a stock o.
some plants if they are to b(r absolutely
true to name. Herbaceous subjects are usually
propagated by this method, and in one illustration
is shown a Primula of the pulvrrulenta and cook-
burniana type ready for division.

I know that they can be raised from seed,
but there occasionally appears a better form than
the type, or we may succeed in getting a new
hybrid, and out of the batch of seedlings one is
far superior to all the others. Such a plant can
only be reproduced by division.

Some growers divide Primulas after flowering,
and this is the usual method for Polyanthuses in
p.trticular ; but I have found that just before
growth begins in the spring is a good time for many
choice Primulas, and then few failures are recorded.
For the purpose of more distinctly showing the
crowns, a plant with rather advanced growth
was selected (see Fig. i). In the second illus-
tration can be seen the same plant divided into
several pieces or single crowns, which are ready
to plant in the open ground, and if pot culture is
practised, they may be potted up in 3i-inch
receptacles as depicted in Fig. 2. Where choice
Primulas are concerned, placing them in pots is
a very good plan, and till they are established a
cold frame could be utilised, which would protect
them from excessive rains. A rich rooting medium
is not necessary, but it is advisable to secure some
good loam and leaf-mould, three parts of the former
to one part of the latter making a suitable mixture.
Only a few potsherds are needed for drainage,
and the soil should be pressed fairly firm around
the crown.

During the summer months the pots may
be plunged in ashes, or similar materia', as
far as the rims, selecting a position on the
north side of a wall
or hedge where they will
be shaded from the
direct rays of the sun.
The surroundings can
be kept moist by
sprinkling the plants
overhead with a fine-
rosed watering-pot
whenever the weather
is dry and hot, par-
ticularly late in the
afternoon, which would
caust a dew to be
dept) sited upon the
foliage, a condition that
promotes healthy and
clean growth. As the
plants grow, additional
crowns \vill be formed,
and further division may
be taken in hand till a
sufficient stock has been
raised.

The object of the
present note and illus-
trations is to s h o w

I. — -A PRIMULA WITH STROXG CROWN
READY FOR DIVISION.

the amateur how to deal with a choice variety
or sport that may by some chance appear
among his plants, especially with Primulas belong-
ing to what may be termed the japonica section.
I may add that the chief points when divid-
ing plants are to see that each portion possesses
enough roots, to pot or plant out each piece while
in a fresh condition, and to give careful treatment
for a few weeks after the operation ; while propa-
gation by division is most successfully performed
when root action and growth commence. S. T.

HOW TO TREAT BEDDING-OUT
CALCEOLARIAS.

Cuttings inserted in September or October
aJ9 often left in the frames until they are lifted
for planting vut in the flower garden the following
spring. This is very bad treatment. The cuttings
form a cahus at the base of the stem ol each in the
autumn, but they rarely produce roots before the
end of January. Al the time that the roots com-
mf-nce to glow, the tops do so also, and it is when
the latter have made about one and a-half inches
ot new growth that the points should be pinched
out. In about a fortnight's time side shoots will
be growing freely, and these form the sturdy,
bushy olant. To improve their condition, however,
the plants should be lifted and transplanted in a
nursery bed at this stage, and there left until the
end of .Xpril, when, if the beds are vacant, the
Calceolarias m 1st be planted in their flowering
quarters. During their sojourn in the nursery
beds only temporary protection against frost and
cold east winds need be given. Thousands of these
plants die annually soon after they are put out in
the flower-beds. I have found that the cause is too
late planting in June, too deep planting, and lack
ot mo'sture at the roots. If permanently planted
in .\pril or early in May, the plants get well estab-
lished before the summer heat comes, and then
few fail. B.

THE SAME PL.\XT

DIVIDED UP. EACH DIVISION
PLANTED SEPARATELY.

RAISING HONESTY (LUNARIA)
FROM SEED.

For growing under trees in woodlands and in
open spaces between slirubs, as well as in the grass
in any wild part of the garden, Honesty (Lunaria)
is a charming plant. The season of flowering is
very early, and when the purple blossoms are
faded, the shining creamy white shields are
invaluable for room decoration. Seeds may
be sown in boxes in cool frames or in the
open border. If in the latter, a position facing
east or west should be
seleeted, for the reason
that the moisture in
such borders at this
season is more regular
than in those facing due
south, and evenness of
moisture is conducive to
free germination of seeds
and growth of resultant
plants. The latter must
be transplanted when
large enough in a nur-
sery border, and from
this to their flowering
quarters before the sum-
mer is much advanced ;
then they will soon get
established. The plants
look well in herbaceous
borders. Lunaria annua,
light purple, is annual
or biennial; L. a.
albi flora, a lovely
white ; and L. rediviva,
purple, is a perennial
variety. Avo.m.

MAY BE EITHER POTTED OR

138

THE GAllUEN.

[March 15, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Narcissi planted under trees and on banks
in the flower garden have in many instances
bloomed very early this season, and for the sake
of tidiness the flower-stalks should be picked oft
as soon as the flowers become withered. There
is often a decided inclination to cut the grass
when these subjects have bloomed, but this should
not be done for some time, at least not till the
foliage shows signs of turning yellow.

Planting Out Forced Bulbs. — In many instances

these are relegated to the rubbish-heap, but there
are often very suitable places for planting these in
the wilder parts of the flower garden or by the
sides of the paths in the copse, which in many
instances adjoins the garden proper. By planting
at this season one can see that they are not placed
on the top of other clumps, which often happens
if left till all the foHage has died down in the autumn,
and the bulbs are not left about all the summer
in the pots.

Hyacinths are now throwing up well in the
beds, and in sheltered positions they may thus
early require support. It is best to do the staking
at once, as one night's wind and wet may break
off a good many of the flowers and so spoil the
effect.

The Rose Garden.

Pruning. — The exceptionally mild winter has
kept many of our Roses in an evergreen state,
and though full early for the general pruning,
a start might well be made with the later-flowering
Hybrid Perpetuals. Generally speaking, good
hard pruning is best for most varieties, especially
where quality is desired in preference to quantity.

Pegging Down. — There are, however, many
strong-growuig varieties, such as J. B, Clark,
Hugh Dickson, Frau Karl Druschki and Mme.
Jules Gravereaux (this latter a Tea), which make
a very fine show when pegged down to within
about a foot from the ground, choosing three or
lour, or even more, of the strongest and best-
ripened shoots for the purpose. This system
requires a good deal of room ; but vigorous varieties,
such as those named, are usually planted at a
good distance apart, and the quantity of bloom
thus obtained is far in excess of that from plants
pruned in the ordinary way.

Pricking Over the Beds. — Needless t:> add,
after pruning, all the beds or borders should be
lightly forked over, thus burying any manure
that may have been given as a top-dressing earlier
in the year, at the same time firming any plants
with the heel that may have been blown about
by the wind during the winter.

Plants Under Glass.

Imantopbyllums are among the hardiest and
easiest-grown greenhouse plants, and may be had
in bloom over quite a long season. Plants that
have been forwarded in a warm house may now have
gone out of flower, and if it is desired to increase
the stock, these may be divided to single crowns
and potted into 4j-i"nch and 6-inch pots, in which
they will prove quite useful for decorative pur-
poses. Plants throwing up their flower-spikes
may be liberally fed with liquid manure.

Hanging Baskets. — These are often a decided
feature in the houses or conservatory where there
is plenty of head room, and may be made up of
a variety of subjects, either of the stove or green-
house. Among Ferns, Nephrolepis is probably
the most popular for the purpose, while Acalypha
hispida and musaica make fine showy baskets in
very quick time, and are made more effective
by covering the baskets with Panicum ; while
Crotons, Dracaena godseffiana. Begonias (both
foliage and flowering), Achimenes, Fuchsias and
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums .-ire all useful subjects.
When once established, baskets will take an
almost tmlimited supply of water, and for this
reason should not be placed where the drip from
them is likely to injure other plants.

The Kitchen Garden.

Sweet Corn. — For an early crop a small sowing

should now be made under glass, potting the young

plants off into 3-inch pots as soon as large enough

to handle. A great deal of heat is not necessary

for them, but just enough to keep up a steadv
growth.

Celery. — For the main crop this should now be
so\\m in boxes, or thinly in a frame on a hot-bed.
To obtain the best results a steady growth from the
outset should be encouraged, rather than subjecting
the seedlings to a great heat at the start.

Beetroot. — A small sowing of Turnip-rooted
Beet" should be made in light soil not too rich in
manure, or the roots will quickly grow beyond a
useful size.

Hoeing. — The hoe should be kept going when-
ever the opportunity offers among the growing
crops. This will help them considerably by
allowing the sun to warm the soil.

Cabbages will benefit greatly also by having a
slight sprinkling of nitrate of soda before the above
operation is done ; but it must be kept off the
foliage, or it may spoil its appearance vuiless it
is immediately washed off, and certainlv at this
season a watering is quite lumecessary.

Fruits Under Glass.

Figs that arc commencing to grow nicely should
have the temperature increased somew'hat at night,
and as the shoots lengthen and the fruits commence
to swell, they should be pinched at the fifth or sixth
leaf. Thinning the fruits also may be necessary
in some instances, but only where a very heavy
crop is being carried. Shallow borders should be
given frequent waterings, a drought at the time
the fruits are swelling being disastrous, and possibly
resulting in the total loss of the early crop.

Melons. — Every encouragement should be given
to the early batch of Melons, and if grown on the
cordon system, the points may be pinched out after
the plants have made sufficient side growths to
ensure a crop. If planted fairly close, it is best
to let the first pair of fruits that are set grow away,
rather than wait till a greater quantity are set at
one time, as it may mean a difference of a week or
two in the time of ripening, and the earliest fruits
are alwavs the most appreciated.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wohuru Plare Gardens, Addlcsiouc. Siiyrty.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.
Removing Protecting Materials. — If the

weather is at all scasoiKiblc, protecting materials
ma>' now be removed from Tritomas, Gunneras
and other plants of doubtful hardiness.

Hollyhocks. — These stately, old-fashioned
flowers may now with safety be planted in their
flowering quarters. The ground, ha\'iTig been
previously manured and trenched, should now be
forked over, pits taken out. and partly filled with
some light, rich compost to give the plants a favour-
able start. If had in separate colours, Hollyhocks
look well in clumps of three or four towards the
back of a mixed border.

Anchusa italica. — The Dropmore variety of
this .\lkanet is a grand subject for mixed beds and
borders. Plants in the reserve garden should now
be removed to their permanent quarters in soil
that has been deeply dug and well enriched.

Montbretias. — New purchases and tubers which
have had protection during winter should now be
planted out. Montbretias delight in a rich,
friable soil with cool, moist conditions. Among
the better varieties are Prometheus. Germania,
George Davison, King Edmund. Vulcan and
Hereward.

Half-Hardy Annuals. — The remainder of these
should now he sown in gentle heat, keeping them
close and shaded till germination takes place.
East Lothian Stocks are apt to damp off if left
too long in the seed-box. As soon, therefore, as
the first pair of rough leaves are well formed,
the plants should be pricked off into deep boxes
of light, rich soil, or into a frame that has had a
little .fermenting material placed in it. Beware
of drip, as the Plants are very liable to damp off.

The Rose Garden.
Pruning. — in all Imt very cold localities the
work of pruning bush Roses may now be com-
menced. I have heard of considerable damage
among Roses during the past winter, but here

they have come through practically scathless.
In pruning, the following is the order in which they
should be taken, allowing about a fortnight froiii
start to finish, viz.. Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid
Teas and Teas. Only general principles can be
laid down here. In tackling any one bush, first
cut away all dead, diseased, extra weak and soft,
badly-ripened shoots, after which, where still
too crowded, thin out more shoots, retaining
those of medium vigour if well ripened. Vigorous
growers should have the shoots shortened to ten
or twelve buds, while weak varieties should be
pruned in fairly hard. If intended for exhibition,
Roses should be pruned harder relatively than
when only wanted ftir decorative purposes.

The Shrubbery.

Planting Evergreens. — The planting of ever-
green shrubs may be carried out from this time
till the beginning of April. The planting of Hollies
is b-st carried out in August, and Rhododendrons
should, for choice, be planted in October. The
latter, if handled carefully and well watered, may,
however, be planted now. When planting, the
claims of such subjects as the following should
not be overlooked, viz., Andromeda floribunda,
Kalmia latifolia, Osmanthus illicifolius, Skimmia
japonica and S. laurifolia.

The Water-Side Garden.

Planting. — Those who are fortunate in having
a lake or stream within the grounds, if they have
not already done so, would be well advised to
invest a little money and labour on water-side
gardening, from which great pleasure may be
derived. Given suitable soil, most of tlie subjects
will take care of themselves after planting.
I can' only indicate a few in alphabetical order:
Arundo conspicua, Astilbes in variety, Carex
Erased, Iris Pseudacorus and its variegated
form, Japanese Irises in variety, Mimulus cardinalis
and the common Monkey-flower, Myosotis palus-
tris semperflorens. Podophyllum peltatum. Primulas
in variety, especially pulverulenta, rosea and
varieties of japoaica, Rodgersia podophylla and
Rumex \'iridis rubrinervum.

Plants Under Glass.

Caladiums. — Those started in small pots should
now be ready for a shift, using pots according to
the vigour and size of the plant. A mixture of loam,
peat and leaf-mould, with a little dry cow-manure,
pounded charcoal and sand, will be found suitable.
Start the later batch in small pots.

Mignonette. — The autumn-sown batch will now
be showing their flower-spikes. Give abundance
of water, adding a little stimulant till the flowers
are nearly expanded.

Pelargoniums. — The Regal varieties should be
pinched before they become leggy. Zonals which
were cut back a few weeks ago and have started
into growth should haw their tialls of soil reduced
and be repotted. Seven-inch pots will be generally
suitable. Three parts loam to one part dry cow-
manure, adding a little bone-meal and sand, will
suit them.

Sowing. — A sowing of Zea japonica variety
(improved variety), Kochia trichophylla and
Amaranthus salicifolius may now be made for
autumn decoration.

The Kitchen Garden.

Onions. — Those that were sown in heat in
January will now be ready for pricking off. Use
deep boxes, place a layer of spent Mushroom
manure in the bottom and fill with rich soil. Prick
out about two inches apart.

Celery. — The main batch may now be sown
in light, rich soil in some warmth. We stick to
Wright's Grove White and Pink, the latter for the
late winter and spring supply.

Peas. — .Another sowing should now be made.
There is great choice. Alderman is hard to beat
as a tall variety ; but if a medium-height variety
of good quality and a good cropper is wanted,
Senator will fulfil all expectations. Where sparrows
are troublesome (and where are they not ?), Pea
guards must be placed on the early sowings.

Turnips. — Although still risky, a sowing of one
of the Milan varieties should now be tried on a
south border.

Liming. — Lime is of great value, especially on
clayey and peaty soils. Now is the time to apply
light dressings of it in the ground form ; cover it
lightlv with a ho? or rake.

Charles Comfort.
Broom/icld Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

March 15, 1913.]

THE GAKDEiX.

139

DAFFODIL NOTES.

DAFFODILS AT VINCENT SQUARE.

March 4 and 5.

THIS show is called in the Royal Horti-
cultural Society's list of fixtures the
" Forced Bulb " Show. The intention
of those who first suggested the fixture
was primarily to provide an oppor-
tunity for showing the general public
which varieties of Daffodils were the best for pot
cultivation ; hence the notes that follow are
going t.o be written to carry out this idea. I do
not think half enough people know the charm
of growing a small and select collection under
glass. I could enlarge on this to any extent,
but I must content myself with the suggestion of
a dozen good varieties that might be grown singly
in 5-incli or 6-inch pots. Take Weardale Perfection,
King Alfred, Duke of Bedford, Stromboli, Southern
Star. Lucifer, Homespun. Castile, Diana, Seagull.
Firebrand and a nice Giant Lecdsii like White
Countess. These would make a charming and
varied little lot, which might be still further
improved by the addition of a Poet like Homer
and a Poetaz like Orient or Jaune k Merveille.

1 have, however, in my mind rather what one
may call good pot plants ; plants, that is to say,
which should be grown in the ordinary way in
pots, and which seem to me to especially lend them-
selves to the treatment. One of the surprises of
tlie show was the absence of Topaz. To me it
is so pleasing that it seems strange that no one
brought it. It has a long, narrow, almost all-red
cup, while its creamy white perianth segments
are narrow and stiff and throw themselves slightly
back. It is a good doer and by no means an
expensive variety, being priced at about two shillings
and sixpence per dozen. A pot of it was just
coming into flower when I left home. Of
those that were there, in the front rank I would
place Weardale Perfection and Duke of Bedford.
These were very well shown by Messrs. Walter T.
Ware, Limited. The first named is so immensely
improved by being grown under glass that it miglit
easily be mistaken for another variety did one
not know its little ways. I heard Mr. Engleheart
eloquent on the subject at the Horticultural Club
one evening. When he " lets himself go," you
may take it from me that there is " a good deal in
it." Thora, the beautiful buff-cupped Giant
Leedsii, was also on this stand. I have never seen
it better done. It is an extremely well-balanced
flower, the perianth, which is slightly twisted,
going so nicely with the short trumpet or large cup.
It is a real gem.

Messrs. Barr and Sous had the three sisters
Sunrise, Sunbeam and Mohican in their interesting
collection. I mention them because the last
named is said to be very good indeed in pots when
not forced. As, however, everything came from
their new garden near Penzance, the actual flowers
staged were no criterion of their pot capabilities.
I am rather sorry that it was so, as all the other
groups had obviously been grown under glass,
and it is quite likely many of the public did not
realise this difference. But of these and also of
some of the novelties staged elsewhere more will
be given next week.

Messrs. J. R. Pearson and Sons (erroneously
referred to in last week's report as Mr. J.
Duncan Pearson) had their blooms rather on
the small side, but they were fresh and clean
Scarletta, grown in their Nottinghamshire home,
looked very pretty. The deep cream perianth

blends so well with the red cup. It is a great
thing to know that a variety can be grown
outside any favoured climatic zone and bear
forcing. , Firebrand is one of these, and so is
Lucifer. Both were on this stand. 1 was glad
to see two fine bunches of Florence Pearson, their
grand wliite trumpet. .\t present it is expensive,
but I have an idea that in the more or less distant
future it will be Florence Pearson and not Mme.
de GraatI that wUl be the great white trumpet of
commerce.

Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin had some
splendid Incognita and Castile. I have not grown
the first named in pots myself, but I have th3
latter. It is a real good thing for the purpose,
and never seems to fail. Lady Margaret Boscawen,
Fairy (yellow trumpet) and Olympia also deserve
mention. Seagull was also there, but it was not
at its best. It is a variety that I think very highly
of. With the exception of last year it has never
failed to give an excellent account of itself when
grown under glass. It was then small, just as the

He had a beautiful group, full of choice new things,
such as Roxana. Dazzler, Alpine Snow, Sindbad,
Wendy and White Countess. Of these anon.
I only mention to-day George Herbert, a pretty
little round Poet which promises well, as the blooms
staged were grown at Bletchley in 1911-12. (Poets
that do well anywhere are very much wanted.
I hope there is nothing rotten in the state of
Denmark, but I have my fears. It is not all gold
that glitters, and it is not every Poet that is a garden
laureate.) Apricot is another variety that is dis-
tinctly flattered by the protection of glass, as it
is then that the pink flush is most marked on its
pale apricot trumpet ; and Orient, the tall, red-
edged Poetaz, one of the very best of its class, and
of which my friend Mr. H. G. Hawker remarked,
as we stood together before it, " Of the whites
Orient, and of the yellows Jaune 4 Merveille ; I
don't want to grow any others."

All the foregoing varieties that I have mentioned
in detail are good in pots. In almost every
case I have grown them myself, so I not only

MAZUS RUGOSUS, A RARE DWARF-GROWING ALPINE WITH DEEP MAUVE OR
ROSE-VIOLET COLOURED FLOWERS.

vase here was. I hope it is not going to belie its
promise of being one of our most valuable pot
plants. It comes so easily and it is so very
floriferous.

I greatly admired a bowl of Lulworth exhibited
by .Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited. I am not, as
a rule, in love with growing in fibre. This
Lulworth was the exception that proves the
rule. It was " jolly good." What a fine com-
panion this would be to W. P. Milner, which,
like Weardale Perfection, is only seen at its best
when grown under glass !

Among the flowers from Robert Sydenham,
Limited, were the two trumpets Olympia and
Cornelia. The first is a big, rough flower, which I
find appeals to many people on this very account.
The second is its antithesis, smooth and refined.
Both have their admirers, and so both are men-
tioned here, for the Daffodil family can indeed be
" all things to all men."

The highest award of the day — a silver-gilt
Banksian medal — fell to Mr. C. Bourne of Bletchley.

see, but I know, which is far better. Experientia
docel. Joseph Jacob.

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Syringa (Lilac) Hugo Koster.— This novelty
promises well as an early forcing variety. The
handsome p>Tamids of flowers as shown were
coloured a pale lilac, the individual flowers being
of large size and well formed. In its natural
flowering season in the open we imagine it would
prove one of the most attractive and distinct.
From Messrs. Koster and Sons, Boskoop, Holland.

MazUS rugOSUS. — \ neat and pretty early-
flowering alpine from the Himalaya and a perfect
carpeter of the soil. The violet or deep mauve
coloured flowers are produced singly on inch-high
peduncles, and are characterised by a three-lobed
lip, on which are two sulphur yellow, longitudinal
lines marked with violet spots. The flowers are

140

TliJi GAKUEK.

[March 15, 1913.

about an inch or so long, and appear above the
carpet of lustrous green, crenated leafage. See
illustration, page 139- Exhibited by the Wargrave
Plant Farm, The Arcade, Liverpool Street, E.C.,
and Twyford, Berks.

Saxifraga Faldonside.— This is one of the yellow
Boydii race, and perhaps the gem of the little set
to which it belongs. The perfectly circular flowers
are nearly the size of a shilling and of a clear lemon
yellow colour. The plant has the reputation of
being a better doer than Boydii, but in any case
it should be given a sheltered place in the rock
garden or be grown in the alpine-house. From Su:
Everard Hambro, K.C.V.O., Hayes Place, Hayes,
Kent (gardener, Mr. J. Grandfield). See illustration,
page 130.

NEW ORCHIDS.

What was undoubtedly one of the finest hybrid
Odontoglossums yet raised was shown by Messrs.
J. and A. McBean of Cooksbridge. It is a variety
of O. eximium named Alpha. The flowers, of
remarkably good form, are densely blotched
with chestnut red. First-class certificate.

Awards of merit were granted to the following :
Cattleya Trians Colossal, from Lieutenant-Colonel
Sir George Holford, K.C.V.O., Westonbirt ;
Odontioda Mossiee and Miltonioda Harwoodii
Moss's variety, both from J. S. Moss, Esq., Bishop's
Waltham ; Dendrobium bigibbum Lady Colman,
shown by Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart., Reigate ;
Oncidioda Cooksoni£E Ralli's variety, from Pantia
Ralli, Esq., Ashtead Park; and Lielio-Cattleya
Smilax Prince of Orange, from Messrs. J. and A.
McBean.

The foregoing awards were made at the fort-
nightly exhibition of the Royal Horticultural
Society held on March 4.

NURSERY NOTES.

ANNUALS AT READING.

FOR some years now we have visited the
seed trial grounds of Messrs. Sutton
and Sons, Reading, for the piurpose of
inspecting the vast array of annuals
there grown, and, incidentally, to note
the differences of the varying stocks
of this or that — it may be the Sweet Pea, Aster,
Stock, Snapdragon, Carnation, Eschscholtzia, or
what you will — their trueness to colour, compact-
ness of habit, freedom or superior flowering attri-
butes, or any other matter which for weeks on
end each year engages the attention of the firm,
and, while making for progress — one of the great
aims of it all — stamps this, as indeed all other
undertakings of Messrs. Sutton, with the hall-
mark of excellence.

Novelties may, as indeed . they do, exist at
the present time in these famed trial grounds ; but
until they have become of good report, till they
have satisfied the exacting requirements of the firm
as to their reliabihty, they are not for the public,
nor is the journalist permitted to say anything con-
cerning them. It is all a question of principle,
and that phase of it in particular which never
starts before being ready, and never adds one jot
or tittle that will not sustain the eminence and
reputation of this world-renowned firm to the
sumptuous volume the firm prepares and distributes.
Perhaps one of the most valuable of the many
lessons to be gathered from an inspection of these
trials is due to the fact that the majority of the
seeds are sown in the open ground ; hence we see

such as Schizanthus, Dimorphotheca, Kochia and
others affording object-lessons of considerable
importance. ,In such instances the sturdy-habited,
well-dressed plants are goodly to look upon, and,
hardily grown from the start, have a greater power
to endure than others of the same kind raised in
warmth. This much was particularly well evidenced
in the case of the first two groups named, and the
gardener should lay the fact to heart. It is of the
greater value, too, in the case of tap-rooted or
sparsely-rooting subjects, since upon the retaining
of every root-fibre formed is the fullest measure
of success assured. There are others, however, such
as the Snapdragons (Antirrhinums), which, while
admitting of be ng sown in the open in July and
transplanted to their flowering quarters in the
September following, are raised here for con-
venience in slight warmth in February and trans-
ferred to the open ground in early May, a steady
growth being maintained meanwhile. The plants
so raised last year were, at the time of our visit
in early August, a field of colour difficult to
imagine, impossible to describe. Some there are
among amateurs to-day who, while delighting in
these flowers, just miss the fullest measure of success
noted by over-thick seed-sowing and by starving
the seedlings before transplanting them. These
are the checks from which they seldom recover.
Now these Antirrhinums are such an important
race — hardy, free-flowering and effective when
massed — that they are worthy of much consideration.
That they exist in the " Tom Thumb " forms
at 6 inches high, in the " Intermediates " at thrice
that height, and in the " Talis " at a yard or more
high, many will know quite well. Yet how few
gardeners appear to have dreamed of combining
all three of these in a single border, securing thereby
one great glorious gallery of flowers, of which, so
far as we remember, no other plant is capable.
Yet the idea is not only possible ; it is easy. The
material exists in abundance and in colours to suit
all tastes. It is merely awaiting a due appreciation of
the fact. One might, indeed, garden with these Snap-
dragons in a dozen varieties — white, pink, yellow,
rose, carmine, crimson and others — in each or all
of the sections, and thereby create a display worth
a day's journey to see. That the colours are
repeated in each section, too, renders the plants
suitable for small and large gardens alike, and a
border 100 feet or 200 feet long would be a sight
to see. In the boldest borders the two taller
sections might predominate, while in borders of
lesser size the dwarfs and intermediates might
prevail. Thus arranged, the plants would become
a feature, and Snapdragon-time in the garden
would be something to aim at and remember.
One of those we saw at Reading was Fire King,
a most brilliant flower ; while Bright Pink, Coral
Red, which has a white throat ; Deep Crimson,
which is a velvety maroon ; Carmine Pink, Rich
Apricot, Orange King, Delicate Pink, and Pale
Apricot, of orange, pink and white, are others good
and distinct. The whole of these come practically
true to their kind ; hence good effect can be relied
upon. We have dwelt upon the Snapdragon at
some length because of its hardiness, free-flowering
and general popularity.

Quite one of the best object-lessons noted con-
cerned the Tom Thumb Nasturtium, which
gardeners know objects to richly-maniured soils.
" Objects " is perhaps the wrong word, for the plant
just delights in them, the excessive luxuriance of
the leave? quite overwhelming the flowers. The great
central avenue in the trial grounds was bordered
with these and other showy flowers, and in several

instances the corners of the borders had been
temporarily utilised as a " tip " for manure ; the
result a splendid crop of leaves and few flowers.
Beyond the limit of the " tip," The King, the chief
variety at the spot, made a most brilliant display,
and in soil that had remained unmanured for
twenty five years. In such circumstances the
moral is as plain as the double-barrelled " tip,"
if flowers and not a leafy luxuriance is the aim.

We have referred to the great central avenue
here, which was more in the nature of display work
than a trial, and for the benefit of our readers who
delight in spectacular effects we give in conclusion
some of the plants employed. Near the railway.
Nasturtium The King blazed forth alone ; while
in other parts the white Alyssum constituted its fore- j
ground, with Godetias Duchess of Albany (white), I
Crimson King and Marchioness of Salisbury
(rosy crimson and white), and Evening Star Chry-
santhemum at the back. Other sections of this
effectively-massed border were made up of Chrysan-
themum segetum varieties, such as Northern Star,
Morning Star, Eastern Star and the equally remark-
able range of colours found in the tricoloured forms
of C. carinatum. Clarkias, hybrid Lupines and the
annual Larkspurs were alike showy and choice,
though to the Orange King Marigold must be assigned
the pride of place, a plant undeterred by heat or
cold or wet, and whose brilliant and free-flowering
attributes are alike incomparable.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— T/iC EditAjr intends to
make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should bo
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Pfblisher.

FLOWER GARDEN.

SUMMER BEDDING PLANTS (An Jdmirer).~lf the
Geraniums ln^come so spindly and drawn by reason of
the near proximity of the trees, we fear other plants will
meet the same fate, and nothing short of repeated experi-
ments with diverse classes of plants will be of much service.
For this season at least we should be inclined to try hybrid
Pentstemons in variety, crimson and scarlet shade«, more
particularly orange or white flowered tuberous-rooted
Begonias in their immediate front, and a broad band of
Godetias as a margin. You might itlieve the brilliancy of
the first named by interspersing the plants with others
of the white Tobacco, which is also a free and continuous
bloomer. Unfortunately, you do not give either the
width or length of the border, hence we cannot assist you
other than from the general standpoint.

SNOWDROPS AND DAFFODILS {J. G.).^We imagine
from the behaviour of the plants that the position is too
dry for both, and the first named, after two years, should
now be flourishing. Tlnsr are not strirtly moisture-loving
plants, though a consideral.ji' tji ptli nt loamy soil is very
much to theirliking. If in addition to the sandy and gravelly
soil the position is one of exposure, that would account for
the small size of the flowers, and unless you can modify
these conditions, we fear there will be little improvement.
Narcissus princeps is one of the best to naturalise, but
prefers moist woodland clay soil. We know instances of
such that have remained undisturbed for twenty years or
more, the plants having become giant tufts in the mean-
time. It is quite possible that deep digging, manuring
of the soil and replanting in August may improve matters.
At the moment all you can do is to flood the ground, if
possible, and apply a little nitrate of soda at the same
time.

•" ^fey-

^r^-

GARDEN.

-^s>-

S;fcajs

No. 2157.— Vol. LXXVII.

March 22, 1913.

CONTENTS.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Notes of the Week 141

Correspondence
A well-grown plant

of Iris flmbriata. . 142
A useful greenhouse

plant 143

The Teneriffo Broom

(Cytisuy proiiferus) 142
Eustouiarussellianum 142
Plants flowering

early 143

.\ good Cabbage for

spring sowing . . 143
Rose Lyou in New

Zealand .. .. 143
Daphne Genkwa . . 143

Forthcoming events.. 143

Rose Garden
The priming of Hoses 143

Trees and Shrubs
Some choice hardy

climbing plants . . 144
The Star - flowered

-Magnolia . . . . 145

THE Heath (iarden 145

greenhouse
Notes on Chrysan-
themums .. .. 146
Flower Garden
Notes on border Car-
nations . . . . 147
The Mulleins and
how to grow thorn 147
DArpODii Notes
Daffodils at Vincent

Square 148

Gardening for Beginners
How to disbud Vines
and Peaches . . 149
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 150

For Northern gar-
dens 150

Rock and Water Garden
My fifty alpines . . 151
Notes on the G.ard ek-
ing AOROSIIOS .. 152
Kitchen Garden
Seasonable notes on
vegetables . . . . 152

I Ii Ii D S T R A T I O N S .

A beautiful greenhouse Iris (I, flmbriata) 142

Cabbage Early Heartwell 143

A pergola of hardy ornamental Vines 144

A bed of .Star-flowered Magnolia (M. stellata).. .. 145

Carnation Delicia 146

A bed of Mulleins or Verbascums 147

Narcissus White Frank 14S

How to disbud Vines and Peaches 149

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every description of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

'Vhe EdiUiT welco7nes ■ptioiographs, articles and Tloies,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, wilt be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated^
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor anil not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions ivkich he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden tvill alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C,

Date of Midland Daffodil Show Altered.— The

date of the above show has been altered from
April 23 and 24 to .A.pril 22 and 23.

Increasing Lavender. — Quite large pieces of
tliis plant will root trcely if slipped from the old
plants and firmly embedded in the soil. With very
little attention the majority will soon develop
into quite large bushes ; and no time should now
be lost in getting them planted.

The Purple Pershore Egg Plum.— This Plum

is being planted e.\teiisively by growers in the
Evesham Valley, where it is likely to eventually
supersede the Yellow Egg Plum. The purple
variety originated as a sport from the yellow
type, and has the same characteristics, being
worthless for dessert, but excellent for preserving.

Renovating Gravel Walks. — Now that most
of the heavy work of the garden is completed,
the gravel walks should have some attention.
Where the surface is moderately good, it may be
turned over with a fork to about a depth of two
inches, levelled and rolled well down. .A path
treated in this way wQl look fresh and bright
for some time. In many cases it is also
necessary to add some new surfacing material,
but it must be of good binding qualitv.

The Glory of the Snow. — Few early spring-
flowering bmbs equal the delightful effects obtained
by liberal plantings of Chionodoxas. Of the
several ways in which they may be planted in our
gardens, one of the best is as a groimdwork for
beds of deciduous shrubs. In such positions the
bulbs flower before the appearance of the foliage
on the shrubs, and the soil is seldom disturbed
except just on the surface. The bulbs increase
rapidly by means of ofisets and self - sown
seeds.

Propagating Thyme. — If a packet of good seed
is procured and sown at once in pans and stood
in mild warmth, a good supply of young plants
may be quickly raised, and with a little attention
wUI soon develop into a nice useful size for planting
in well-prepared beds at the end of April. This
is the best plan when there is a scarcity of older
plants. If there are enough of the latter, pull off
young pieces and plant them in small tufts,
burying the older wood rather deeply. Make
the soil firm, and water a few times if needed till
well rooted.

Mounds of Crocuses.— The planting of these
delightful spring-flowermg bulbs in grass is being
gradually extended, more particularly in public
parks and gardens. For some years now Crocus-
time at Kew has drawn large crowds of visitors on
fine Sunday afternoons in late February and
March. The most effective plantings at Kew are
on mounds or sloping groimd, generally in the
vicinity of deciduous trees where the grass is not
too thick. With the green grass as a groundwork,

the effect is much more pleasing than the soil ol
beds and borders. If, however, the position is
too open, the grass generally grows too thickly,
and in time the Crocus bulbs deteriorate and dw'indle
away.

Modern Cornflowers. — Unlike most other
flowers, the humble Cornflower of our fields has
been spoiled by florists in the attempt to secure
colours other than the deep, brilliant blue which
is the main charm of the wild plant. The so-called
rose and white flowered varieties are washed-out
caricatmres of one of the most beautiful of our
native flowers, and are not worthy of a place in
our gardens. Even some of the blue-flowered
varieties offered for sale are not so good in
colour as those we were wont to see growing
in tlie conifields.

The Canary Creeljer. — Seeds of this pretty
climbing plant, also known under the name of
Tropa;olum canariense, should now be sown in
pots of light sou under glass, or placed in the open
ground during the month of April. There are a
number of situations, both in small and large
gardens, where this showy subject could be utilised
with telling effect. An old stump of a tree may
require covering, arches need furnishing, and a few
clumps in the flower border would be an additional
charm if allowed to ramble over Pea sticks.
Amateurs who take an interest in window-boxes
will find the Canary Creeper very suitable for
trailing over the sides.

A Shrub to Grow Under Shade of Trees. —

Pachysandra terminalis, a low-growing shrubby
plant, is one of the most useful subjects to thrive
satisfactorily under trees, and therefore one well
worth including in collections. It is a native
of China and Japan, evergreen and of dwarf habit,
and has been known for some time, but seeds
were recently sent to England among those collected
by Mr. E. H. Wilson. From the Continent comes a
very attractive variegated form, which appears
to be quite as robust as the former. Both have
white flowers, freely borne in March and April, and
should prove useful shrubs for inclusion on
rockeries because of their low and not too rapid
spreading habit.

The Protection of Eremurus.— These hand- •
some plants are gradually, but surely, finding
favour ; but their liability to suffer from early
spring frosts is a gre^t drawback. This, however,
can be partly, if not wholly, remedied. At the
present season they are about to send up their
spikes, but unless some meajis of protection is
given, they may be irretrievably ruined by frost.
A few pieces of Bracken can be employed, or an
Archangel mat supported by a stake or two
%¥ill prove effective, while various other methods
will occur to the thoughtful cultivator. A mistake
is often made when selecting a position for these
noble plants. The best aspect is north-west, or
wherever the morning sun cannot shine full on
them.

142

THE GARDEN.

[March 22, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is iu>t responsible jor the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Lilium sulphureum as an Outdoor Plant.—

As I have twice lately read article?, in The Garden
on Lilies, where it is stated that Lilium sulphureum
(or wallichianum superbum) cannot be considered
a garden flower as it requires heat, I am writing
to tell you that I grow it quite successfully
in my small garden here. Planted in a pocket
of sand in the border, it produces beautiful

as I have done regularly these fourteen years
past, usually about Christmas. May I be allowed
to add as some slight proof that it has had no
untoward effect, that I have been quite reasonably
successful in the exhibition tent. — N. W. M.

A Useful Greenhouse Plant. — Rshmannia
angulata is a most useful subject for the decorating
of any cool glass structure. I recently saw a batch
of the plants in the greenhouse in Waterlow Park,
Highgate, which is thrown open to the public.
They looked healthy, with spikes about half grown.
At their best they attain a height of 3 feet to
4i feet, and have a long season of flowering. The

A BEAUTIFUL GREENHOUSE IRIS, I.

FIMBRIATA, GROWN BY A READER AT ST.
CORNWALL.

IVES,

blooms in October. This may encourage other
amateurs to try this glorious Lily. — (Miss)
A. L. Waud, The Haven, Elstcad, near Godalming.

A Well-Grown Plant of Iris flmbriata.— I
think you may be interested to see the photograph
of Iris flmbriata which I enclose. I brought the
plant from Rome some twenty years ago, and it
has only bloomed in a very sparse way twice or
thrice during all these years. You wrote me
some two years ago as to its treatment, and this
is the result, which is most satisfactory, and for
which I have to thank you. It has been flowering
for a fortnight, and will go on for another ten
days, judging from the number of buds on the
plant. — T. M. D., St. Ives, Cornwall.

Liquid Manure for Rose Trees in Winter. — In

answer t'l Mr. C. Turner's note, page 103, issue
March i, asking for further light re above, he may
be referred to Foster-Melliar's " Book of the Rose "
— still the book for enthusiasts. If he will turn up
the chapter on manures and also read the calendar
of monthly operations, he will see such procedure
advocated. Curiously enough, although not seeing
Mr. Stevenson's notes, I chose the week they
appeared to give my trees a thorough soaking,

form of the flower much resembles the Incarvillea,
while the markings in the throat are similar to
those of the Pentstemon. In tlie warmer and
most sheltered of our Southern gardens it is said
to live out of doors the year through. Propagation
is by seed and cuttings. — C. T.

The Teneriffe Broom (Cytisus proliferus).—

1 was glad to see the reference to this free-
flowering Broom in your issue of March 8,
page 117. This little-known Cytisus is certainly
worthy of extended cultivation as a pUlar subject
for a lofty conservatory, as instanced by the
grand plant that may be seen in the Himalayan
House at Kew at the present time. This
specimen is clothing a pUIar some 12 feet or 20 feet

j in height. The plant is wreathed with drooping

I inflorescences of creamy white. Pea-shaped flowers.

This Cytisus is a native of Teneriffe, and in the

i warm parts of this country, such as Cornwall, it

succeeds out of doors. In Nicholson's " Dictionary

of Gardening " the height of this plant is given as

2 feet to 4 feet. When the trailing growths are
I trained to a pillar, as in the example referred

to, there seems to be no reason why it should not
attain six times that height.

Eustoma russellianum. — Time was when this
beautiful Gentian-wiirt, referred to in " Notes
of the Week " of the issue for March 15, was met
with far more frequently than it is at the present
day. Grand specimens were at times exhibited,
and, being particular in its requirements, it was
regarded as a good test of the cultivator's skill
and attention. It says a great deal for the old-
time gardener that with the more primitive struc- ■
turcs and system of heating he used to grow fine
examples of many plants that may now be sought
for almost in vain. This Eustoma, which in the
olden days was known as Lisianthus russcllianus,
is a native of Texas. The specific name is in honour
of one of the earlier Dukes of Bedford. By sowing
the seed early in the year and growing the plants
on freely it may be flowered the same year, but
the most satisfactory way to obtain fine specimens
is to treat it as a biennial. If sown in spring and
the young plants are sturdily grown, they will
by the winter be established in pots from 4 inches
to 5 inches in diameter. About the end of
February tliey may be put into their flowering
pots. In an 8-mch pot a large specimen can be
; grown. A mixture of loam, leaf-mould and sand
will suit this Eustoma well. Like many of the
Gentian family, the roots are delicate, so that they
must be carefully handled and excesses cjf drought
or lunmture a\'iiidc(l. — H. P.

Reliable Lilies for the Outdoor Garden. —

The list of reliable Lilies from your correspondent
the Rev. David R. Williamson, page 135, issue
March 13, is decidedly limited, and additions
might well be made thereto. For instance, what
more dependable Lily have we than the old orange
Lilium croceum ? It will thrive in the ordinary
border without any preparation, and increase
quickly by means of its numerous offsets. That
It is reliable enough is proved by the fine examples
met with at times in cottage gardens, where they
are associated with perennials that are of such a
robust constitution that they are able to look after
themselves. Apart from the beauty of its orange
red blossoms, a desirable feature of L. croceum
(a feature shared by most of the upright-flowered
LUies) is that it will flower well the first season
after planting, and does not need some time to get
established as do several of the Martagon section.
This renders it a trustworthy Lily for pots, in which
I at one time grew it extensively, having to provide
a number for the Orange Celebrations which occur
at just about its flowering period. Another Lily
which seems to me very reliable is one of the most
beautiful of all, namely, L. testaceuni, also know,
as L. excelsum. This Lily, ot doubtful origin
is exceedingly graceful, and in the nankeen tint
of its blossoms stands out ahme. The tall, slender
stems are of far more stabihty than one might think,
though readily swayed by the wind. That garden
group known sometimes as davuricuni and at
others as umbellatum, near relatives of the Orange
Lily, are all reliable, perhaps the best being that
known as erectum. L. tigrinum, too, is a good
outdoor LUy. Of the Martagons the beautiful
Japanese L. Hansonii, whose yellow, wax-like
flowers are spotted with dark brown, differs fropi
most of the section in being little, if at all. affected
by removal ; whereas most of tliis group take some
time to become established. In soil largely of a
vegetable nature and moderately moist, L. parda-
linum does well and becomes thoroughly establislied.
I am completely in accord with your correspondent
concerning L. sxovitzianum, that is, if it is given
a good. deep, loamy soil utkI allowed to remain
umli^lurbfd (or It resent? beuig moved. — H. P.

March 22, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

143

Plants Flowering Early.— I have had Primula
denticulata flowering in an open border since early
in January. I raised the plants from seed last April
and planted them out in- July. They did not die
down, and were a month earlier in flower than those
I potted and put in a cold greenhouse. The soil
is medium, and I kept the soil very firm
round their roots. « My Apricots began to flower
on March i on a sheltered south wall. Saxifraga
Griesbachii is still in flower, with two large heads
and a small one coming on. — M. W. Sugden,
Wells, Somerset.

A Good Cabbage for Spring Sowing.— I am
sending you a photograph of Cabbage Carter's
Early Heartwell, which is the best variety that I
know for spring sowing. .'Vs will be seen from the
illustration, it makes a good-shaped head, and the
flavour and te.\ture are all that one can desire. If
seed is sown about the end of March, good Cabbages
will be ready for cutting during the early part of
June. 1 notice that Messrs, Carter recommend
it also for autumn sowing ; but as I have never
tried it for that purpose, I cannot say how far the
recoramend.il ion is justified. — A. B., Essex.

Rose Lyon in New Zealand. — I have just been
reading in a back number of The Garden how the
Lyon Rose varies under different treatment. I
should like to tell you how mine behaved. It
first flowered with a fine pink Rose, somewhat the
colour of Ina Bingham ; then on another branch
it flowered the true Lyon-—" shrimp pink and
coral red " I think the catalogues say of it. On a
third shoot it bore only coral red Roses ; then the
whole thing died. I suppose the effort to produce
three distinct kinds of Roses at one time was too
much for it. I hoped to save the coral red shoot,
lor I have never seen such a beautiful colour in
Roses before or since ; but I was unable to do so.
I hope this may interest you. — E. O'Callaghan,
Hawera, New Zealand.

Daphne Genkwa. — On page q6 of issue
February 22, Mr. Smith mentions this as the most
captivating of the genus, and with that I think
everyone who has seen it in flower will agree ;
it is one that should find a place in every garden
where a suitable position can be found for it.
Here it has withstood the winter in the open.
A few other shrubs worthy of note which
are sure to become more popular when better known
are Ceanothus Topaze, a strong-growing variety,
with clear blue flowers ; Cotoneaster Fontanesii,
a lovely plant for the autumn with brilliant red
berries, about three feet high ; Cytisus kewensis,
a beautiful plant for the rock garden, with creamy
flowers that appear about May. Unfortunately,
the rabbits had a special liking for my plants this
winter, for they were all eaten off to the graft before
discovered. Exochorda macrantha has fragrant,
snow white flowers which are very fine in the spring.
Philadelphus Virginal is a magnificent Mock
Orange with fine white flowers. Veronica hulkeana
is a good climber, planted under a south wall ;
' it has stood the winter again and made good growth.
It should have slight protection in very severe
weather, and if planted where it gets drippings of
water, should have a board or something to carry
them off, as the shrub appears to suffer more from
these than frost; it flowers in the spring, and the
flnwer-spikes are pale lavender. — W. Bee, Surrey.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
March 28. — Beckenham Horticultural Society's
Meeting and Lecture.

March 29. — Paisley Spring Flower Show.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

THE PRUNING OF ROSES.

I. — General Principles.

Study the Plants. — In order to prune well,
it is, before all things, necessary that the gardener
should have a clear idea of the object he wishes
to attain and the probable means to achieve that
end ; and I should like at the outset to point out
that for the end in view, theory alone will help but
little if it is not combined with a careful personal
study of the plants themselves. The habit of
growth of the different species and varieties varies
greatly ; even in individuals of the same species
differences of growth will be found, and each
variation in habit probably requires some modifi-
cation in the treatment to be applied.

The Objects in View m pruning are mamly
three: (i) To secure the constant production of
new wood and so prolong the life of the plant ;
(2) to obtain finer and better flowers than the
plant would produce if left to itself ; (3) to fit
the plant for the position it occupies in the garden.

Now, the Roses in our gardens are plants in an
extremely artificial condition. For the most part
they consist of plants budded on the Dog Rose or
other strong - rooting wild species. The means
generally resorted to by wild Roses m a state of
Nature for the production of new growth and
perpetuation of the plants are not open to them
in our gardens. An interesting illustration of this
is recorded by Pro-
fessor Cr^pin. He
noticed that the
American species R.
humilis, which had '
once been very com-
mon in European
gardens, had at one
time nearly dis-
appeared, and he
found the explana-
tion to be this : In
its wild state this
Rose pushes out long
roots or rhizomes,
which produce shoots
destined to replace
the principal plant,
which usually perishes
after languishing for
some years. In cul-
tivation these shoots
have been cut off
without much con-
sideration of thtir
place of origin, and
so the plant, formerly
very common, dis-
appeared from nearly
all gardens. To pre-
serve this pretty little miniature Rose, he adds,
these shoots must be carefully sought for and
removed when sufficiently rooted and planted
elsewhere.

This is. of course, an extreme case ; but another
illustration may be taken from the multiflora and
wichuraiana hybrids, now so commonly used as
climbers in our gardens. These produce straight
or lax green shoots of considerable length which
do not flower the first year, but the year following,
from the axils of the buds along the greater part
of their length, laterals or side shoots are produced,
on which the flower-clusters are bonie. Now
comes the point. When these flowers are over.

this long shoot, which has turned brown, is finished
so far as flower production is concerned. It is
true that if the flowering laterals be left they will
again send out shoots from their buds, which will
flower in a third year, but no more flowering shoots
will be formed immediately from the old stem.
It is best, therefore, as a rule, to cut it away after
it has flowered, leaving the plant to devote its
energy to the fresh shoots of the year.

Hard, Barren Stems. — On old standards of

Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas, particularly
those pruned on the long method, it is common to
see the growing and flowering part separated from
the stem by an ever-increasing length of hard,
brown wood which has become useless for flowering
purposes and serves only as a carrier for the growing
and flowering parts. The longer this brown,
flowerless wood becomes, the poorer, as a rule,
become the growth and flowers at its extremity,
and at the same time the stem itself is liable to
attack by frost or fungus, so that it is only a ques-
tion of time before it becomes necessary to remove
it altogether.

In the case of standards, where specially large
heads are desired, and for large specimen bushes,
it is sometimes necessary to keep these long,
barren stems ; but, as a rule, for ordinary garden
Roses it will be our object to keep as few of them
as we can. We cannot, of course, permit our
budded garden Roses to renew their young wood
by the development of suckers, for this would

CABBAGE EARLY HEARTWELL, AN EXCELLENT VARIETY TO
SOW NOW.

soon lead to the death of the budded plant ; but
we may properly make it our object to encourage
the Rose to do the nearest permissible thing to
this, namely, to have recourse to the constant
production of strong young growths from the
collai of the dwarf or the head of the standard
just above the point of insertion of the bud. By
the encouragement of young wood not only do we
increase the length of life of the Rose, but at the
same time we improve our chance of obtaining
good flowers from our plants. The method we are
to adopt to procure this constant succession of
young wood must greatly depend on the position
the plants occupy in the garden. It is not only

144

THE GAKDEN.

[March 22, 1913.

by pruning back that this result can be attained,
but also by thinning out weak shoots and pegging
or bending down the strong ones. The pegging-
down systems can be adopted where we have
plenty of room at our disposal and strong-growing
varieties to deal with. On walls or screens the
strong shoots can be trained fanwise or more or
less horizontally, while in the case of many of the
Hybrid Teas grown as pillars, bending down the
growths for a month or two in early spring is a
convenient method of inducing the plants to break
from the base. This may to some extent be
assisted by careful syringing.

activity by pegging down are from one and a-half
times to twice as long as those of severely-pruned
plants of the ''same variety and the same age.
A French wxiter once instituted a comparison
between great growth made by a plant of Climb-
ing Aim^e Vibert allowed to grow practically
unpruned on .a house wall and a bed of Victor
Verdier Roses, which, after being pruned by expert
gardeners for twenty years, were found to weigh
somewhat less than when first planted.

In both these cases pruning, far from increasing
growth, has materially hindered it. It is, never-
theless, the fact that if we take two plants of

THE PERGULA OF H.^KDV UK.\ A.Ml-.N 1 AL VlNts IN THIC GARni:XS Ai GT N X i; USB f R Y HOUSE, ACTON.

It may incidentally be mentioned that there are
certain Roses, such as Maman Cochet and its
white sport, which will naturally break from
the base with very little encouragement. The
growth, at first upright, soon bends over after
the flower forms, and strong young basal shoots
are readily formed. If there is room at our dis-
posal, all we need do in these cases is to remove
the old and any unripe wood when pruning. The
amount of space the plant can be allowed will
in such cases be the determining factor in guiding
our operations, for with varieties of this character
I have noticed in several cases that we get a greater
vigour of growth when little shortening is practised
than when the plants are closely cut back. This,
however, can only be permitted so long as the
plants continue to make good young shoots from
the base of the stems.

It is often stated that one of the objects in prun-
ing is to increase the growth of the plant ; and some
have gone so far as to suggest that where sufficient
growth is made without pruning it should not be
practised at all. Both statements require con-
siderable limitation. I have found that, with
nearly all varieties of very vigorous growth, the
stems produced from the basal buds toned into

Hybrid Perpetuals or Hybrid Teas of the same
kind and prune one lightly and the other severely
enough to start the basal shoots into growth,
the length and vigour of the individual growths
on the severely-pruned plant will be decidedly
greater than on that which has received little
pruning, provided the plants are allowed to grow
upright and in otherwise similar conditions, and
this effect will be increased year by year if in subse-
quent years the same course is pursued with
regard to the two plants. The object of pruning
is, however, principally the production of flowers.
Vigorous growth is only of incidental interest
towards this end. It will be necessary to con-
sider separately the various groups or classes,
seeing that the Roses of different groups, and even
the members and varieties in those groups, behave
very chfferently in the matter of flower production,
just as our demands on them vary, for in some
cases we seek a few fine flowers ; in others, many
flowers, smaller, but well shaped ; and in others,
caring little for the individual flowers, we seek for
a mass of colour in the garden. The appropriate
treatment for these different groups and classes will
be considered in subsequent articles. Whitk Rosic.
[To be continued.)

TREES AND SHRUBS.

SOME CHOICE HARDY CLIMBING
PLANTS.

THE number of woody climbing plants
suitable for the outdoor garden has
increased enormousiy during the last
few years ; therefore it may not be out
of place to direct attention to a few
of the choicer and more useful kinds
in order that those who are not well acquainted
with them may be guided in their selections. As a
rule, the kinds referred to may be
expected to be hardy in all but the
coldest parts of the country ; but
where there is a doubt about hardi-
ness, it is mentioned m the descrip-
tion. In the selection no attempt
has been made to keep strictly to new
plants, for some which have been
grown in our gardens for half a cen-
tury are still among the most beautiful
and most useful.

Actinidia chinensis. — This is a

very vigorous, free-growing plant, and
by far the best of the .Actinidias.
Introduced from China about twelve
years ago, it soon became popular
by reason of its large, heart-shaped
leaves, which, together with the shoots
when young, are covered with showy,
reddish hairs. The yellow flowers are
1^ inches across, and those of female
plants are followed by edible fruits as
large as a small Plum. It thrives in
good loamy soU, and is an excellent
pergola or trellis plant.

Akebia quinata is an older plant,

but it IS not met with so frequently
as its decorative qualities deserve.
Of vigorous habit, it may be expected
to cover a large bush or a tree i8 feet
to 20 feet high. Its five-parted leaves
are very distinct, while its purple
flowers, which appear in spring before
the leaves, are borne in profusion. It
is only when planted against a warm
wall, however, that its violet-coloured
fruit is ripened. A second species, A. lobata, is
equally worthy of note.

Clematis Armandii. — This is a showy, white-
flowered species which was introduced from China
early in the present century. The flowers are
usually borne in April, and they appear in good-
sized axillary clusters, each flower being ij inches
to 2 inches acr6ss. Apart from the flowers, the
plant is conspicuous by reason of its oblong, ever-
green leaves, which are up to 6 inches long and
2 inches or more wide. It may be planted against
a pergola, trellis, or wall.
Clematis montana rubens was fully described

and illustrated in The G \rden for February 15.

Clematis Durandii should be planted in those
gardens '.vlien; difliculty is e.\perienced in the
cultivation of the ordinary garden varieties, for
it rarely goes wrong in the way they do ; it grows
vigorously and bears its large, purplish flowers
in profusion. The yellow flowers of C. orientalis
tangutica make it an object of special interest,
and it is well worth a position against the
pillar of a pergola. A variety of the old C.
montana also deserves a word of praise. This is
C. m. Wilsonii. Its flowers are larger than those
of the type, and many open during the autumn.

MAKCII 22, I913.]

THE GARDEN.

145

Wistaria chincnsiS. — No list of choice climbers
UDuld lit- complete without this, for although it
has been an occupant of our gardens for a very
long period, it is still one of the most beautiful
of all climbers. Of exceptionally vigorous habit,
it is adapted for planting against high buildings
or lor covering good-sized trees, while, as it is
amenable to severe pruning, it is well adapted for
<iuitu low walls and pergolas, .\fter the required
space has been covered, the object of the cultivator
should be to secure as many stunted, spur-like
growths as possible, for such growths continue
year after year to produce a wealth of racemes
of fragrant, mauve flowers. The white-flowered
v.iriety may also be planted, but neither the
double-flowered form nor the kind with varie-
gated leaves is recommended, W. multijuga.
however, should be planted by all means, especially
on pergolas, for its elegant racemes of fragrant,
mauve-coloured blossoms are sometimes between
3 feet and .| feet long. Its white variety is also
very beautiful.

Jasminum primulinum is excellent for the

milder counties, but is not sufficiently hardy for
general cultivation. In plaies where it thrives
it is quite ,is beautiful as the old Jasminum nudi-
llorum, than which there are few more showy
iliinbers, while its golden flowers are larger than
those of the older plant, and often
iiiive the curious hose-in-hose arrange-
ment of the corolla, which is a familiar
fr-aturc in some Primula flowers.

Hydrangea petiolaris is worthy

■ if attention, for it is a neat-growing,
iclf-clinging plant. It may be planted
against a wall 15 feet or 18 feet in
height, and a single plant may be
expected to cover a space of 350
square leet and give little trouble
except in guiding the leading shoots
in the desired direction, and once a
year pruning away any breast wood
which is not desired. Flowers are
borne freely during the summer in
large, flattened heads. It is a native
of Japan, and has long been in cul-
tivation, although it is not widely
grown .

Schizophragma hydrangeoides is .1

Chinese and Japanese plant closelv
allied to the above. It climbs in the
same way, by means of aerial roots
■and may be used for similar purposes.
Another useful species may be ob-
tained in S. integrifolia.

Celastrus articulatus should, be
planted where a vigorous climber is
wanted for the wild garden or wood-
land, for it is only seen at its best
when allowed to develop freely. It
will ascend and cover a large bush or
moderate-sized tree, and although of
no account so far as flowers are con-
cerned, it is very pretty in the autumn when
covered with its orange and red fruits.

Vitis. — There are many excellent kinds of
Vitis which are first-rate subjects for pergola
planting (see illustration on page 144), but space
will only allow of mention being made of V.
Coignetiae, V. armata var. Veitchii, V. leeoides, V.
megalophylla, V. Thunbergii and V. Thomsonii,
with the showy-leaved V. henryana for wall
I'lanting. All must have rich, loamv soil.

RubUS, such as R. flagelliformis R. bambusarum
and R. ichangensis, have scandent branches, and

are excellent for the pergola and trellis ; while the
now well-known Polygonum baldschuanicum is
excellent for planting against a large bush or small
tree, over which its branches may ramble at will,
for freely-grown examples usually blossom more
profusely than those which have their growth
restricted. D.

THE HEATH GARDEN.

(ConHnued irom page 1 34.)

THE STAR -FLOWERED MAGNOLIA.

(M. STELL.tTA.)

No garden is complete without this pretty shrub.
It is the first of the Magnolias to flower, and this is
a distinction very much in its favour m a mild
spring, but ending in disaster in a very cold one.
Unlike the well-knowii evergreen Magnolia grandi-
flora, so often used for clothing the walls of houses
with warm aspects, the subject of this note is
deciduous, and the flowers are borne from the
latter end of March and through .■\pril before the
leaves are fully developed. The starry flowers
are pure white, and are greatly cherished for their
sweet fragrance.

Ml Magnolias show a dislike for certain soils,
and this may explain the reason why they are not
more extensively grown. \ good loamy soil of
free and open texture is probably best, but, above
all, it is important to plant in as warm a position
as possible. .Magnolias, again, are very impatient

H

■WING disposed of the principal
varieties of Erica vulgaris, those re-
maining are generally a httle later
m flowering, and, with one or two
exceptions, are not recommended for
planting in large quantities.
The Dorset Heath (E, ciliaris), however, makes
a very eflective mass about a foot in height, bearing
pale red flowers, coming in a little later than
E. vulgaris.

E. cinerea, sometimes designated the Scotch
Heath, embraces a fair number of dwarf-growing
plants, rarely exceeding i? inches high, and mostly
of red and purple shades. The type is represented
by a neat little plant of about nind inches high,
with purple flowers shading to lilac. Alba and
alba major are the only white forms we have noted,
the former being a fac-simile of the type, except
in colour, the major form being slightly larger
and later. Atropurpurea (g inches), atrosanguinea
(6 inches), coccinea (6 inches), purpurea (9 inches),
rosea (g inches) and rubra (6 inches) are pretty
correctly described in the names they bear. Spicata
is perhaps the tallest of this section, bearing long

A BED OF THE STAR-FLOWERED MAGNOLIA (M. STELLATA). THIS IS A BEAOTIFtlL EARLY-
FLOWERING SHRUB FOR A LAWN BED.

of removal, a characteristic that seems peculiar spikes of a dull red, showing somewhat dingy when
to the whole Magnolia family ; the reason for this \ placed beside those already named,
is foimd m the hue fibrous roots that are so easily : A rather curious specimen is found in E. scoparia,
damaged. Transplanting is sometimes a necessary . the flowers of which are of a greenish hue ; the
evil, and in such cases the work should be carried plant attains a height of about two feet, and the

out in the spring just at the time when growth
commences, and not in the autumn, as sometimes
advised.

Magnolia stellata is most effective when planted
in large beds, the bright flowers lending pleasing
brilliance to the landscape in the suimy days of
spring.

flowers are distributed unevenly on longish
spikes.

The Corsican Heath (E. stricta) forms a large
bush about three feet in lieight, and possesses more
of an upright habit than any of the genus. Its
foliage is also especially attractive, particularly
in the earlier stages of growth : the flowers are a

146

THE GARDEN

[March 22, 1913.

pale red colour, and are bome near the terminals

of the shoots.

With E. maweana, a dwarf-growing variety,

rarely more than 9 inches in height, and having

flowers of a rich purplish red, which are usually

at their best in the month of October, we would

close our list of hardy Heaths ; but another very

interesting genus belonging to the same Natural

Order is found in Menziesia, and which is usually

included among the Heaths, having a simUar

habit and succeeding under the same treatment.
The Irish Heath (Menziesia poUfolia, syn.

Dabcecia polifolia, the St. Dabeoc's Heath, and

perhaps better known as Irish Heath) is a very

pretty plant, and quite as hardy

and as free-growing as any of the

Heaths. There is a purple and also

a white variety each about a foot

in height and of upright growth ;

the foliage is attractive, being a

glossy green above and white

beneath. The individual flowers

are larger than any of the Ericas,

and are drooping, the white form

being very pretty.

M. empetrifolia, a synonym of

Hryanthus empetriformis, is a neat

little bush of about six inches in

lieight ; the flowers are reddish

purple, and, being clustered near

the extremities of the branches,

produce a strong colour effect in

the group.

M. ca;rulea, syn. Phyllodoce

taxifolia (Yew-leaved), is some-
what scarce and difficult to get

true. It possesses very shiny,

green foliage, and flowers of a

lilac colour. The Menziesias, when

grouped in a bed according to

lieight, have a fine effect, and make

a pleasing contrast with the

Heaths. All the varieties flower

during summer.

Another excellent plant for the

hardy Heath border is Fabiana

imbricata, and, although belong-
ing to the Order Solanacea;, it

so much resembles the Heaths.

both in foliage and in flower, that

it may find a place among them.

This has white flowers of exquisite

purity, very freely produced on
long branches during May and
Jime. The plant grows to a height
of 3 feet, and, having a somewhat
erect, rigid growth w'ith^very at-
tractive foliage, is always con-
spicuous. In cold districts it
requires the shelter of a wall and
protection during severe winters.
The plant will thrive in light
loam without the addition of peat. It also makes a
capital subject for the decoration of the greenhouse
or conservatory when grown in pots. There are
also numerous varieties of hardy Heaths, especially
in the vulgaris group, that make excellent decora-
tive plants when grown in pots, or at least trans-
ferred to pots from the open border before showing
flower, and if suitable-sized pieces are grown for
that purpose they will well repay the little atten-
tion they require. It is not claimed that they
would rival such varieties as E. gracilis or E. hyemalis
for indoor decoration, but where soil and climate
are suitable, a large stock for the purpose can be
efononiicallv obtained. X'^onfAS WfT.soN.

THE GREENHOUSE.

NOTES ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS.
Exhibition Plants in March. — During this

month, especially the latter part of it, cultivators
will be very busv moving their forward plants into
6-inch pots, and the more backward of the early-
rooted ones into 5-inch pots In order tn grow every
variety to perfection, the cultivator should be
well acquainted with the habit of them ; but it
is a fact th.it the most experienced grower fails
to have all varieties at their best m any one season,
so that it IS wise to grow a few more varieties than

CARNATION DELICIA, A BtAUIlFUL WHITE-GROUND BORD
WITH PINK AND CRIMSON MARKINGS

are actually required on this account alone.
Furthermore, it is a wise plan to adopt, because
some varieties fail one season and succeed another,
so that from the surplus plants .good blooms are
often obtained.

Potting Plants in March. — Some varieties do
better in small pots, say. 9-inch ones, than in
ir-inch, and in order to have all plants in such a
condition that the work of potting can be done
conveniently and in the best possible way, they
must be grown on in pots of at least two sizes
while young. The compost used now must be some-
what rougher — more lumpy — than previously. I like
to pnll the fibrous turf to pieces in every case, and

for this potting to leave as many lumps as possible
about the size of a Walnut ; the potting-stick
will soon compress such lumps within the space
allowed when potting is done. Furthermore, I
prefer to sift out, through a quarter-inch mesh
sieve, all the fibreless portion, and so retain the
most fibrous. This sifting must be done gently,
so as not to disturb the form of the lumps retained.
Then sweet leaf-soil, road grit or coarse sand may
be added to replace the sandless small lumps,
which tend to clog the drahiage if left in. I par-
ticularly refer to loam of a heavy, or rather heavy,
nature. To every bushel of the above combined
parts add a 3-inch potful of bone-meal, one of soot,
a 6-inch potful of wood-ashes,
and chemical manures according
to the instructions given with
them, if these manures are
favoured by cultivators. Ordinary
firm potting is best ; avoid un-
due pressure of the soil, and do
not go to the other extreme
and leave it too light. Pick
out the plants so as to repot
only those that are forwarc.
enough for the purpose.

Frame Treatment. — Un-
doubtedly the plants do better
ill cold frames at this season
than in any heated structure.
Much heat can be husbanded
ill a cold frame at this season
from sunshine, but a too close
atmosphere would result in a
weakening of the growth. It is
only advisable to keep the frame
closed, or nearly so, during the
four or five days following the
potting of the plants. If the
compost was in a medium state
ot moisture, watering will not
be necessary for at least four
(lays if the foliage is gently
svriiiged twice daily on bright
days.

Frame Propagation ot Bor-
der Varieties. — Even an inex-
perienced cultivator need not
liesitate to insert cuttings of
border varieties freely either in
boxes or the beds in cold
frames now. It is better to put
them in boxes, because the latter
can be taken out of the frame
for the hardening of the plants
and the freeing of the frame for
other kinds of plants in due time.
Even if the old roots or stools
look well in the borders now,
it is advisable to root some
cuttings, and those healthy-
looking suckers are just the
thing ; none could be better. If the boxes
are 3 inches deep, with holes or slits in the
bottom for drainage, put in first a thin layer
of rotted manure, then nearly fill the box
with a sandy compcst, and finally surface the
firmed soil with coarse sand. Put in the cuttings
3 inches apart each way, water, and keep the frame
closed for two or three weeks. The cuttings will
soon form roots, and the young plants will be
available for planting out early in May, when
they should be given an open position and
moderately rich and deeply ctiltivated soil. For
autumn effect in the border these Chrysanthemums
are indispciisabk'. Avon.

ER VARIETY

March 22, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

147

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

NOTES ON BORDER CARNATIONS.

A I.THOUGH these plants are accommodating

/\ in the sense that they do not make
/ % heavy demands upon the time of the
^^^^ grower through the winter months, they
* will prove resentful of neglect. There-

fore, whether the wintering is done in
the open garden or in cold frames, the plants are
always in some appreciable degree in one's mind.

It has steadily grown into a regular custom to
place a portion of the stock in cold frames for the
winter, because several of our most beautiful
modern varieties have rather poorer constitutions
than the old favourites, and, especially in strong,
cold soils in a lew-lying garden, the winter losses
are apt to be serious. Their treatment all along
must be that of hardy plants and not
of tender ones, since if the latter course
is pursued, trouble and anxiety arc
bound to arise sooner or later. Exclude
torrential rains and heavy snow, but
apart from that, see that the plants
have all the fresh air and light that it
is possible to afford them. This will
spell slow and hard progress, and when
the time arrives for planting, scarcely
any bother and no worry will crop up.

If the positions decided upon have
not yet been prepared for their recep-
tion, it is wise to attend to the task
forthwith, because it is desirable that
the soil shall settle well down after
the deep moving that is so advan-
tageous, and for the food virtues of
the maniu'e to become widely dis-
tributed throughout the ground. As
far as the actual process of prepara-
tion is concerned, let it suffice to say
that it is impossible to dig too deeply
or too thoroughlj', and the advantage
of mixing rotten manure, well down,
cannot be questioned, though one is
opposed to the system which brings
the manure in immediate contact ■ '
with the roots. With the top spit it
is sound practice to incorporate a
generims dressing of crushed lime or
mortar rubble, and if there is some
old soot at command, work in some of
it as well. The plants are most appre-
ciative of both of these things, and
their use tends to improve the flowers
considerably. A BELi

-As a rule it is wise to defer tlie
planting until the end of the month
in favourable situations, and until the first or second
week of .April in cold gardens where the soil is on the
strong side. Meantime, let the plants be steadily
hardened, so that they will not feel the slightest ill-
effects from the change of climatic conditions.

Plants that have passed the winter in the posi-
tions in which they are to flower usually thrive
better than those that have to be disturbed,
provided that the roots are in a friable medium
and that they have been promptly re-firraed after
the roots have been displaced by sharp frosts.

Mr. James Douglas of Great Bookham, Surrey,
has most kindly placed the illustration on page 146
at the disposal of the Editor, and he describes
r^elicia as a fine representative variety of the
fancy group ; it has a white ground with pink and
crimson markings. This leading expert also speaks
most highly of Mrs. Elliot Douglas as a pure Narcissus

yellow self, and of Mrs. Griffiths Jones as a soft
apricot self. Those who are wise will give the trio
a good trial this season, procuring some for planting
about the beginning of next month. F. R.

THE MULLEINS AND HOW TO GROW
THEM.

The Verbascums, commonly known as Mulleins,
have been greatly improved during recent years. I
know of no plants more noble or picturesque than
the newer varieties. Their pyramidal spikes
towering up among other border plants are just
the very flowers which give the whole border
a light, graceful and most natural appearance.
The roots enjoy a good deep soil.

How to Propagate Them. — The Mulleins are
easily propagated from root-cuttings. Cut the fleshy
roots about two inches or three inches in length,

or sand. When the crowns of the plants often appear
to be dead, the roots are still alive and in quite a
suitable condition for propagating.

Varieties to Grow. — Mars is a most peculiar
colour of buff, turning red towards the centre.
Caledonia is a very effective variety. The colour
of the flowers is sulphur yellow, suffused bronze.
Ivanhoe, with its flowers literally packed on tall,
blanching spikes and of a deep rosy fawn, is very
fine. A. M. Burnie is rose and bronze. One of the
most distinct varieties is densiflorum. The foliage
is quite distinct from any of the others, and is a
beautiful light green. The spikes are not quite
so dense as the above-mentioned, but of a more
branching habit. The flowers are yellow, with a
bronze orange centre. I consider this is one of
the most attractive. The above-mentioned varie-
ties all grow from 3 feet to 4 feet high.

OF MULLEINS OR VERBASCUMS. THE PLANTS SHOWN ARE MOSTLY SPECIES AND ARE
USEFUL FOR CREATING BOLD EFFECTS IN THE GARDEN.

taking care that the cuttings are kept upright ;
then place them about two inches apart in sandy
soil in pots, pans, or boxes. Insert the roots so
that the tops of the root-cuttings are level with the
soil ; then cover them with about a quarter of an
inch of sand. Place them in a cold frame or green-
house, sprinkle them with water occasionally
so as to keep the soil just moist, and they will soon
begin to shoot. Spring is the best time to
propagate, though it can be done in the autumn
quite successfully.

Protecting the Roots. — The plants sometimes die
in the winter, but this is not because there is any
deception as to their hardiness ; but on account of
their free habit they sometimes flower themselves to
death. When the stems are cut down, the plants
can often be prevented from dying by placing over
the crowns (during winter) some fibre, coke-ashes.

Tall-growing Varieties. — Three of the best
tall-growing Mulleins are Miss Willmott (white),
phlomoides (beautiful soft yellow) and pannosum
magnificum (syn. gloriosa). The last-named is a
giant species and a very noble plant. The foliage
forms beautiful tufts during winter of a thick
downy silvery white. It throws up largfe branching
spikes to a height of 6 feet, which are literally
covered with bright rich yellow flowers.

Graceful Hybrids. — Wiedmannianum and its
hybrids are a very pretty, graceful-flowering section.
They throw up slender stems from 2 feet to 2^ feet
high, which are covered with flowers. The different
hybrids vary in colour from white to palest rose, pale
purple to the deepest purple, and deep rose to copper
colour. Another which must be included is Chaixii
alba. It has strong stems about three feet high,
which are crowded with white flowers. J. L. E.

148

THE GARDEN.

[March 22, 1913.

DAFFODIL NOTES.

DAFFODILS AT VINCENT SQUARE.

March 4 and 5.
{Continued' from page 139.)

ONE hesitates about saying very much
, either ior or against the latest
I comers when we only see them in
their pot-grown condition. Accord-
ing to the doctrine of chances or
the law of proportion, there will be
the small class, like Weardale Per-
fection, Firebrand and W. P. Milner,
which revel in the kindly protec-
tion and warmth of a glass-house,
and which are only seen at the top
of their form when so treated ; and
there will be the larger class, where
no appreciable benefit is gained
from it, but, on the whole, probably
rather the reverse. Will readers
please remember this in perusing
what follows. I may be damning
with faint praise this, which, grown
more naturally, would show quite
a different face, or praising that,
which, in the open, would certainly
fall below the standard of ex-
cellence here presented.

I will deal with Messrs. Barr and
Sons' group first, as all the blooms
in it were grown in the open.
During the day I had a talk with
the secretary of the Breconshire
Show, in the course of which she
incidentally remarked that they had
three climates in the county. I
have since set myself this sum. If
there are three climates in Brecon-
shire, how many are there in
England and Wales, and how many
in the British Isles ? I have nearly
forgotten my algebra, but I have
a dim recollection that there was a
convenient " x " which one could
put down to represent any unknown
quantity. I unhesitatingly put
down " X " as the true answer to
my problem. Talk to a Devon
man, as I did directly after my
confab with the secretary, and he
will tell you that his county is not
Cornwall, and that North Devon
is not South Devon. Then you
might chime in, as I did, and say.
" Neither is Cornwall Shropshire."
Every single variety that I grow,
and that was on Messrs. Barr's
stand, was in the hard bud stage,
or even hardly that, at Whitewell,
when they must have been in their
full glory at Rosemorran. Even
Lemon Princeps and Alert were
only just expanding on March 3
two men bought a £50 stock after reading
something 1 had written in The Garden, I feel
I cannot be too cautious in what I say, and
thus in the very forefront of another season's
notes, which the Editor has again kindly asked me
to supply, I call attention — I would it were with a
megaphone that could reach every Daffodil en-
thusiast's ear — to the enormous differences of
climate which our flower has to live in when it
finds a place in the gardens of the British Isles.

When you pause before some real beauty and wish
it were yours, try to see in the leaves the signal-
man's green flag, and " proceed cautiously."

Probably by far the most attractive flower in
Messrs. Barr's collection was Sunrise, which was
shown in excellent condition. It is a lovely thing ;
the yellow in the perianth only adds to its beauty,
and acts like a " softener " in a magic lantern. A
representative of one of our most famous British
firms, who is not much up in Daffodils, consulted
me during the show about purchasing five or six
goodish things for their autumn trade. " I want

NARCISSUS WHITE FRANK, A BEAUIIFUI. NLW VARIETY SHOWN AT
VINCENT SQUARE ON MARCH 4. (Much reduced.)

Ever since

to show you one I would like, and I want to know
what you think." I followed him as best I could
in the crowd. He took me to Sunrise. " .Ah,"
I said, " you are a pretty good judge of what's
what ; but if you could buy even a couple of
hundred wholesale you would be a lucky man." It
is a comfort to know it is a good increaser. I was
glad to see Fairy Queen given a prominent place.
It is a small, lovely, smooth-petalled little Leedsii,
going quite white with age, with a sharply-cut-ofi
cup and the perianth segments gracefully incurving

toward their tips. It is very floriferous and is
a quick increaser, equally good under glass and
in the open.

In Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin's group
two varieties stood out pre-eminently. Neptune \-
an exquisite bicolor giant incomparabilis, which
I can best describe as a " show " Lady Margaret
Boscawen. The perianths of all in that vasi
would satisfy the most exacting judge. Maiden'b
Blush was the other one, a very ugly flower, but
it was marked " Sold " early in the day. Why ?
There was an unmistakable pink edge to the short
trumpet. Who knows but what
this ugly duckling may be the pro-
genitor of a pink-cupped race !

Messrs. W. T. Ware, Limited, had
all their flowers in pots, one bulb
m one pot. A little lot of Mace-
bearer occupied the top centre.
It always reminds me of my
favourite Bernardino, but its petals
are more formal, and its cup, wliich
is shorter and more expanded, is
banded orange red rather than
suffused. Diameter of the flower,
3 8- inches ; diameter of the cup,
one and three-sixteenths inches.
White Nun is a taking giant Leedsii,
■ >f what I call the squat, well-
groomed type ; prim but pleasing.
I was much taken with a recurvus-
looking Poet with a rimmed eye,
named Siena. The great difference
in the widths of the alternate
segments was very pronounced. 1
do not seem to remember such
another. Princess Alice, as its name
suggests, is similar in style to
Princess Mary. The perianth, how-
ever, is a creamy white, and Mr.
Ware assured me that its constitu-
tion was good, which is more than
can be said of its namesake. It
is by no means an expensive
flower.

I liked Messrs. J. R. Pearson's
small, dainty giant Leedsii Capella;
Messrs. R. H. Batli's white perianth
Barri Star of the East ; and Messrs.
R. Sydenham's new, almost
triandrus hybrid-looking Leedsii
White Frank (see illustration),
none of them in the front rank is
exhibition varieties, but delightful
flowers. Mr. Bourne had several of
these tip-toppers. He had some
excellent Moonbeam, which struck
me very much, as it is so very
late — the white flag which heralds
the summer truce after the heated
battles of the shows. Next tti
it was a single bloom of an
even whiter one, Alpine Snow.
as white as any triandrus
of its type, ilic whitest in
the show. Wendy is a refined flower after Mr.
Bourne's own heart. Its distinction and charm
lie in the wonderful deep apricot colouring of the
expanded cup, which towards the edge passes
to a decided buff (size of bloom 3^ inches, by
three-quarters of an inch depth of cup, by i inch
width at top). A last word for his superb blooms
of Whitewell. They quite rivalled in their depth
of colour that n.'ver-to-beforgolten bloom of
Miss Currey's at Birmingiiam. Joseph Jacob.

hybrid, and.

March 22, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

149

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO DISBUD VINES AND PEACHES.

BOTH Vines and Peaches make rapid
Krnwth and produce young shoots
in great numbers throughout the spring
aiid summer seasons. If all the shoots
that grow were left to mature, the Vines
would become a tangle like Blackberry
bushes on hedges, and the Peaches would be so
overcrowded with them that neither the buds nor
the fruits would colour and ripen properly. An
inexperienced cultivator does not fully realise the
importance of early and judicious disbudding,
because he is misled by the sparse appearance of
the tiny shoots. Early disbudding is essential
to success. In carrying out the work the cultivator
must not rush it through ; that is, although he may
be able to remo\"e every surplus shoot in a single
day, he should not do so, but only pinch out a few
each day, and so spread out the work that it will
be completed in about a week. There does not
follow any check to growth of either branch or
fruit left on when this system is adopted. In the
case of Vines, the disbudding should commence
when the young shoots are about an inch long,
or when the tiny bunches can be seen in the ends
of the shoots. It would be unwise to do the work
before, as so many good-sized bunches might be
sacrificed unintentionally. In the case of Peaches,
the disbudding should be commenced directly the
shoots are large enough to handle.
The Accompanying Illustrations will enable

a beginner tu underst.iud more clearly how the work
ought to be done. Fig. A shows at No. i a Vine
rod, a few years old and bearing spurs, ready for
disbudding. The shoots, Nos. 2 2, on the lowest
spur are worthless and should be removed. The
shoot. No. 3, is the one to retain ; it bears a bunch
of Grapes, which can be seen at this stage at the
extreme end of it. On the second spur there are
two good shoots, both bearing bunches of Grapes.

THE WORK OF DISBUDDING VINES EXPLAINED. SOME GROWTHS ARE REMOVED

AND OTHERS LEFT.

No. 4 is badly placed and should be removed. | Vine rod on which a young shoot, bearing a bunch
No. 5 is well placed in this instance and should be of Grapes, has been duly " stopped " at the point,
retained. Where there is only one young shoot 1 No. 10 ; then all the strength of the Vine goes to
on a spur, as shown at No. 6, and that spur is j nurture the bimch and the main leaves. The sub-

at the proper distance — 18 inches, or nearly that —
from others on the same side of the rod, it must
be left to grow. No. 7 shows how the young shoots
must be retained on a young Vine rod, No. 8
denoting the position from which surplus shoots
have been removed. No. 9 shows a portion of a

HELPFUL lLLUSTR.\TIONS TO THE CORRECT METHOD OF DISBUDDING PEACH
TREES. (FOR EXPLANATORY NOTES SEE TEXT.)

lateral shoots being stopped at the first leal
prevents any overcrowding of foliage. No. 11
shows the wrong way to remove a shoot — -to disbud
— and No. 12, the right. The young bimch can be
seen tinder a glass, as shown at No. 13, but the leaves,
No. 14. surrounding it must never be forcibly
pulled back for the purpose, else they may be
broken or torn. Fig. B depicts how Peach trees
should be disbudded. No. i shows one-half of a
newly-planted tree properly disbudded, and No. 2,
the other half, not disbudded. The centre, No. 3,
will always fill up. No. 4 shows a large branch
bearing both flowers and shoots. Nos. 5 5,
denoting shoots and flowers, with crosses near them,
must be pinched off. Nos. 6 6, those without
crosses, should be left on to grow. A single shoot,
or branch, properly disbudded of both flowers
(where very numerous) and yoimg shoots, is shown
at Nos. 7 7 and Nos. 8 8 8 respectively. Where
there are flowers in pairs, as shown at No. 9, with
a shoot growing between, the shoot and flower,
No. 10, on the under side, must be removed where
there is overcrowding. No. r i denotes a young shoot
of medium size a few weeks after the general
disbudding. It may be left unstopped, and side
shoots, Nos. 12 12, st<jpped as shown. The swelling
fruit is shown at No. 13. No. 14 is a branch
treated similarly to No. 11.

One of the most common errors made by amateurs
in the cultivation of Vines and Peaches is that of
leaving six shoots when there is only room for one.
By following carefully the foregoing instructions
the beginner will be able to carry out satisfactory
the work of disbudding, which plays such an
important part in the resultant crops. <•. d.

150

THE GAKDEN.

[March 22, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.
Tuberous Begonias. — For bedding-out pur-
poses these should now be started in boxes in an
intermediate iiouse, or, where large quantities are
grown, it may be wise to devote a slightly-heated
frame to them. Here they may be just covered
with light sou, and if given plenty of room to
develop their foliage, may stay in the frame till
planting-out-time, hardening tliera off as growth
proceeds. From the boxes they will require potting
off when nicely rooted, or may be planted in a
cold frame.

Seedling Fibrous-Rooted Begonias should be
pricked off as soon as large enough to handle,
keeping them growing freely in a warm house
or pit. This also applies to the seedling tuberous-
rooted plants.

Pentstemons and Antirrhinums sown early
in the season ought by now to have made sturdy
little plants, and should be pricked off at once.
When they have got well hold of the new soil,
they may be removed to a cold frame.

Propagation generally must be proceeded with,
getting in all the cuttings possible during the next
week or two, as after the end of March there is
not a great length of time for the young plants
to grow and be hardened off before bedding-out-
time.

Carpet-Bedding Plants may be rooted in the
boxes in which they are to remain till planting-out-
time.

Alyssum minimum is a plant much used for
edging, and where it is raised from seed it may be
sown at once, pricking ofi the seedlings into a cold
frame when large enough to handle. Seedlings do
not make such a nice even edging as plants raised
from cuttings, but they are certainly much less
trouble.

Annuals. — The present is a good time (providing
the soil is fairly dry) to sow seeds of annuals
either for cutting purposes or for garden decora-
tion. Too thick sowing is not to be commended
under any circumstances, the plants growing better
and flowering for a much longer season when thinned
to a good distance apart.

Plants Under Glass.
Hydrangea paniculata. — Plants plunged out of

doors may now be pruned, bringing in a batch
as soon as the basal buds have plumped up nicely.
Though the plants will stand a httle forcing, the
best results are obtained when they are allowed a
fairly cool greenhouse temperature.

Pelargoniums that are showing bloom should
be well looked after in the way of water and manure,
especially if in small pots, and as they are some-
times apt to become infested with green fly, a
fumigation should occasionally be given. Specimen
plants should be neatly staked out, leaving the
stakes long enough to give an extra tie to the
flowers as they push up well above the foliage.

Malmaison Carnations are now growing freely,
and should be given a little more room to allow
the side growths to develop properly. .'Vn i8-inch
stake may be put to each plant, to which to secure
the flower-spike as it pushes up. If well rooted, a
Utile manure-water may be given, or a dressing
of an approved fertiliser applied about every other
week.

Shading Material. — Now that the sun is gaining
power, it may be necessary to shade some of
the more tender stove plants, as well as batches of
plants recently potted. The flowering house is
best shaded during the hottest part of the day.
so that all blinds should be overhauled and placed
in position at once. I am not an advocate of too
much shading at any time, but in some instances
it is quite necessary and helpful to the plants.

The Kitchen Garden.
Potatoes. — Maincrop Potatoes may be planted
at any time now. Those for semi-early use need
not be planted so far apart as those for late use.
These latter should have at least 30 inches between
the rows, especially in heavy soil, and, during the
progress of planting, such soil should be well broken
up with the fork, or it will mean a great deal more
laboiu: during the growing period previous to
earthing-up. It is needless to mention varieties,

as nearly every district and garden grows some
varieties better than others ; but a thorough
change of seed every year is extremely beneficial,
and well repays the extra outlay.

Runner Beans. — For very early work a small
batch should now be sown in pots, three seeds in a
6-inch or 8|-inch pot being a very good plan to
adopt, and the latter will carry them quite a long
time without them suffering, should the weather
be unfavourable for planting out.

French Beans in pits will be growing freely
now, and to encourage a stocky growth plenty of
air may be given on fine, warm days. When they
are near or touching the glass, a good covering must
be given at night to ensure them not being injured
by frost.

Fruits Under Glass.

Orchard-House Trees. — Plums and Pears,
having now set their fruit, might be benefited by
a slightly higher temperature, giving the trecb a
good syringing morning and afternoon on fine
days, but sufficiently early to allow of them becom-
ing thoroughly dry before night. A few of the
early Apples may be coming into bloom, and if
these are kept in a batch by themselves, fertilisa-
tion will be easier. Too much moisture at the roots
is not necessary at this season, but it must be
remembered that if they get thoroughly dry it
is very detrimental to the setting and swelling of
the young fruit.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Raspberries. — If not already done, these should
be gone over and matting tied to the wires, allowing
a fair distance between each cane. Where stakes
are used, it may be necessary to renew them,
using good, strong Hazel or Ash stakes which have
been prepared beforehand by tarring the bottom
for at least 18 inches. These being surface-rooting
plants, they should not be deeply forked between,
but a little short manure may with advantage
be lightly pricked into the surface of the soil.
Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburii Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Sweet Peas. — These, whether in pots or bo.xes,
must have an abundance of air and hght to prevent
the plants from becoming drawn and weakly.
In fine weather the lights of the frame should be
removed entirely.

Sweet Williams. — Self-coloured varieties of
these, such as Sutton's Pink Beauty, are very
telling when planted in masses, and where they
have been wintered in the reserve garden, they
should now be planted out, taking care to lift the
plants with good balls of sod.

Canterbury Bells. — These biennials are among
the most showy of our summer hardy flowers, and
should not be overlooked. Planted out now with
good balls of soil, they will commence flowering
early in July.

Pansies and Violas. — The sooner these are
planted out, the sooner they will begin to flower.
It is advisable, as far as practicable, to plant them
in fresh quarters annually. We have been for
several years planting a certain variety of Viola
as a groundwork among the biflk of our Roses.
All has gone well up till the present, but nearly the
whole of the young stock have died during the winter ;
while of other varieties which have had their
summer quarters changed regularly, hardly a plant
has perished. The lesson is obvious.

Shrubby Veronicas. — There are a number of
barely hardy shrubby Veronicas which deserve
attention, such as V. salicifoUus, V. Andersonii,
V. A. Diamond and so on. If they have been
hardened ofi, they may now be planted with safety.
They can either be associated with herbaceous
plants or planted immediately in the front of the
shrubbery. V. Andersonii variegata is a useful
bedding plant, and looks well in conjunction with
Salvia patens.

The Rock Garden.

Scented Plants. — .\ few of these should find a
place m every rock garden, but variety could be ob-
tained bv devoting a portion of the rockwork wholly

to'these. In the higher reaches Lavender, varie-
gated Mint and Balm could be planted, and, further
down, the Sweet Marjorams and Santolinas, finish-
ing at the base with Thymes, dwarf Menthas and
Micromeria Douglasii.

Plants Under Glass.

Repotting Palms.— Palms, being largely used
for the decoration of rooms and corridors, should
be grown in as small pots as possible, and with
careful watering and judicious feeding they will
do with less root room than most plants. Potting
must be had recourse to from time to time, how-
ever, and the present is a good time to carry out
the operation.

Phyllanthus roseo-pictus.— So far as I know,
this is the only member of the genus which can be
called showy. Its delicately-tinted, graceful foliage,
however, well entitles it to a high place among our
stove plants. It is easdy propagated by cuttings
in heat, is not particular as to soil, but prefers a
sandy loam, and, so far as my experience goes, has
no enemies. If regularly cut well back in spring,
a bushy habit will be formed, and the plants will
be serviceable for many years.

Cyclamens. — Seedlings, the result of an August
sowing, should now be ready to pot off into
2j-inch pots. Use equal parts of loam, good
leaf-mould and sand; lift the seedlings carefully,
pot rather loosely, and only half cover the corms
when potting. Spray twice daily and shade from
bright sunshine.

Shading must now be provided for the various
plant-houses, although cool houses should receive
attention last. Where time and expense are no
barriers, movable shaduigs should be used ; but
in most establishments fixed shadings are the rule.
A useful shadmg can be made from sour milk and
whiting. Newly-slaked lime does very well, but
should not be allowed to come in contact with
the putty. When applying, form wavy lines in
preference to straight ones.

Fruits Under Glass.
Thinning Peaches. — This work must be carried
out with discretion. A strong-growing variety
will bring to perfection more fruit relatively than
a weak one. This principle holds good with
trees of the same variety, and once more the
principle holds good with regard to different shoots
on the same tree. Commence the operation when |
the fruits are about the size of small marbles,
and if fairly well placed, retain the largest fruits.
Be careful not to tear away a portion of the bark.
Give the fruits a sharp twist and pull towards the
point of the shoot.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

The Black Currant Mite. — It is to be feared that
no thoroughly efiicacious remedy has yet been
foimd for this destructive pest. If, however, the
opening buds are dusted three times between this
and the end of April with one part ground lime
to two parts of flowers of sulphur, the mite will be
well kept in check. The bushes should be damp
when the mixture is applied.

Looking Ahead. — The stock of nettmg should
be overhauled and augmented if necessary, as it
may be requisitioned on short notice when spring
frosts occur while Pears, Plums, Apricots and
Cherries are in bloom.

The Kitchen Garden.
Turnip-Rooted Beet. — It is too early yet to
sow the mam crop of Beet, but a sowing of a
Turnip-rooted variety should be made for early
use. Several firms now offer varieties superior
to the old Egyptian variety. For this class the
drills need not be more than a foot apart.

Planting Cabbages. — A planting shoiild now

be made from those sown in the autumn. A good
plan is to plant a batch of an early variety, and a
batch of Winningstadt to succeed it before the
spring-sown stock turns in. Give the autumn-
planted batch another dressing of nitrate of soda
or old fowl-manure and stir with the Dutch hoe.

Lettuces. — Give the autumn-planted stock a
dressing of soot and stir with the hoe. Make another ^
sowing. All have their favourite varieties. We
use little but Neapolitan for the main crop ; if a
Cos variety is wanted, Paris White Cos is hard to
beat.

Celery Trenches shunld lie formed and manured
when time will permit. Cn-iRLES Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens. Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

March 22, 1913.]

IHE GARDEN.

151

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

MY FIFTY ALPINES.

THE problem of exclusion, so bravely
tackled by Mr. Amott in The Garden
for March i. is one of intense interest.
In all such lists and choices there is
hound to lie a challenge to other
gardeners and different tastes. It is
liardly to be thought possible that I in particular
lould sit quite quiet, in patient peace, beneath a
sflection which finds no room for Dianthus
.ilpinus ! ."Vnd I trust that Mr. Arnott's choice
will stimulate other gardeners also to give theirs.
M the same time, it must be understood that I
do not in any way cavil at Mr. Arnott's selection.
It is the charm of such selections that they are
almost hound to elicit the views of other people.
Each gardener has his special favourites, to whom
he burns to see justice done (and bravo, Mr. .\rnott,
for putting Ramondia Natalia; instead of the
commoner and dowdier R. pyrenaica). Therefore
will I come forward, not to attack Mr Amott,
hut to break a lance or two in favour of some of
my especial loves omitted in his list.

The plants to be chosen, let us postulate, must
all be of easy and robust growth in any garden,
sreat or small, under reasonable conditions of
culture. Shrubs, with one or two exceptions,
are to be excluded. .\nd also, as the field among
bulbs is as vast as that among alpincs, I think
it is hardly fair, in a choice of rock plants, to
run the risk of having to crowd out here and there
a treasure to make room for such and such a no
less treasured bulb. No, it will be (and has,
alas ! been) hard enough to make a selection
among fifty alpines ; if bulbs are to be thrown in,
there will be weeping and gnashing of teeth
indeed. Of bulbs and monocotyledons for the
•imall rock garden, let us now have a separate
list, please, Mr. Arnott. It will be very easily
filled up, and will need hardly less drastic selection
than the other. Iris and Crocus alone ^vill bring
up many fierce rivalries, and half crowd up the
list already. No bulbs, then, no annuals, no shrubs
as yet (except the indispensable) and, above all,
a prolonged season from spring to autumn.

Now for the personal excisions that I must make
from Mr. Arnott's list. Out goes Adonis amurensis,
a lovely thing as you see it in a Japanese hog
garden, just a golden button on the earth and no
Tuore ; in gardens, of a shrill and venomous green-
tainted yellow, like that of so many poisonous
Ranimculads (hut compare the pure and bland
I'itron of Trollius), and in habit rather ill-bred, to
my taste, in its development. I question next
.^mebia's claim to front rank, and I do not expect
my list will be able to afford more than one
.^ubrietia, for certainly more Campanulas will
he wanted. Erica carnea, again — good, pleasant
thing— is " general utility " rather than a first
choice. Galax aphylla is surely quite low down
among one's loves ; not by any means a plant to
include at the cost, say, of Gentiana acaulis.
Then comes Hypericum fragile, not to be com-
pared, in my eyes {pace Sir Herbert Maxwell),
with either H. reptans or H. Coris. After this I
chiefly supplement Mr. Arnott's list, though I
cannot set pretty, commonplace, useful Silene
Schafta among my first fifty beloveds. Synthiris
hardly seems of first rank either, and Shortia
galacifolia, though lovely, certainly yields in
beauty to S. uniflora grandiflora, and neither is
of universally easy culture ; at least, I trust there
are some gardeners who share my perpetual

inability to make either of them seem really happy.
.\t this rate, if Shortias are to come in, where
is Schizocodon, which, at its best, is lovelier than
either ? Finally, the great races are too scantily
represented. Where only two Campanulas are
allowed, it is surely imjust to sacrifice indispensable
pusilla or amenable .\llionii to the stout and com-
paratively dowdy-coloured garganica hirsuta ; and
the great silver Saxifrages in themselves are winter
furnishing far above Erica carnea.

But the task, however you achieve it, is a cruel
and terrible one. I may say that my first choice
of fifty absolutely indispensable plants that no
gardener in his senses could possibly live without
amounted in the end to ninety-five, and the anguish
of reduction beggars language. Even then, when
one has mangled one's choice into the required
limits, there are bound to remain a certain number
of tiresome " utility " plants, such as Gypsophila
repens and Saponaria ocymoides (or lovely .Anemone
Hepatica as an early bloomer), that have to be
kept in (or ought to be kept in, if one has the heart)
at the cost of Campanula Elatines, C. Raineri and
C. Zoysii, or Saxifraga retusa, S. cochlearis and
S. longifolia. Not that one is mthin a hundred
miles of liking them so well, but because they can
be relied on always for a fine and large display
of a commonplace, brilliant nature, imder common-
place treatment and conditions, just like any
Knotgrass or Goatweed. (For at this moment I
hate them heartily and grudge their very existence.)

With regard to the soil mixtures, I believe that,
as Mr. Arnott says, a good, light compound will
suit nearly all alpines. Where I have suggested
lime, it is not because lime is clearly necessary (as
it almost is, I believe, for Gentiana " Gentianella "),
but because the species attributed to it seem
specially faithful to it in Nature, as, for instance,
the Arthritic Primulas, constant to peaty soil
on the high limestones, as against P. minima
from the same peaty turf, but quite indifferent
as to its underlying rock. With regard to aspect,
again, each garden and climate has to discover its
own rules. I have merely suggested such con-
ditions as seem to answer here in an alpine climate,
cool, wet and cloudy. The rules I have hinted at
have been, however, as universal as possible.
Sempervivum and Papaver, for instance,' are
universally unfavourable to shade and damp
and heavy soil. In cases where I suggest an
open aspect, it may be found that in hot. Southern
gardens a less torrid position may be better. And
now, please, let someone else come forward with
another list of fifty indispensable alpines, or,
perhaps, a secondary list, to include the forty-
five irreplaceable treasures that I have had to
excise, with breaking heart, from the first choice
of universal and glorious rock garden plants.

Reginald Farrer.

[We shall be pleased to receive further selections
of alpines from readers, or criticisms and comments
on Mr. Farrers and Mr. Arnott's selections. — Ed.]

Nfime.
Aqtiilegia glandulosa

*.\ndrosace lanuginosa ...
Anemone sylvestri'i major

•Arenaria montana —

Aster alpinus 9

•Aubrietia Moerheimii —

Campanula Allionii 3

C. G. F. Wilson «

C. port«nschlagiana B

C. pusilia 4

•Daphne blagayana —

*Dryas octopetala

Dianthus alpinus

12 Open Cool, rich vcue-

teble
Sun Sandy, light loam Pink Late Cutting!

,, , Flmvering

Colour. Period.

Blue & white Mav

How to Piopagate.
Seed

12 Shade (') . . Rich, cool White

— Sun Light !oam ,, . .

9 „ „ „ Violet

Early A late Divide
JMay - June Cuttings
June

Divide or seed

„ .Von - calcareous Purple

moraine
OpiMi Good, light loam Violet

April - June Cuttings

.May

Seed or divide

Geranium argenteum

G. cinereum album

G. lancastriense

G. wallichianum Buxtonii

Any

Stony peat

Good light
Limy loam or

moraine
Limy loam or

moraine
Light loam

Gentiana " Gentianella " (acaulis) 3
•Gypsophila prostrata rosea —

Hepatica angulosa 6

Hypericum Coris 6

*H. reptans —

Lithospermum graminifolium 9

Mertensia primuloides 6 Open Cool, moist

moraine
Myosotis rupicola 4

Sim Limy loam .

„ Any

Shady or open Cool, rich . .

Sunny Light loam

Sun

Limy loam .

August . .

Aug. - Sept.

Blue June - Oct.

White ....

Rose red . .

Pink, silver-
leaved

White

Pink

Blue, white-
eyed

Azure

Pink

Blue

Divide

Cuttings or division

Division
Feb. - June Divide
May - June Seed or cuttings
June - July ,, ,,

May-Get...
May-Oct...

June

Atay-July

Jan

Seed

Divide
Divide or seed

Gold July - Sept,

Rich gold . . July - Nov,

April Divide
Seed

Oxalis enueaphylla f

Papaver alpinum

•Phlox G. F. Wilson

*P. Nelsonii

*P. Vivid

Primula Auricula

Sun laght loam or

moraine

Shade Rich and coo! . .

5i Sun Moraine or very

light soil
Open Light loam

P. clusiana

P. X intermedia

P. marginata

P. X pubescens alba

Ranunculus parnassifolius

•Saponaria ocymoides splendi

dissima

Saxifraga Aizoon rosea

S. linguiata Bellardii

S. 1. lantoscana

S. Cotyledon H ^."^

S. burseriana Gloria »

S. Paulinae 4

♦S. Camposii (Wallacei) .... 0

Ramondia Natalise 6

Sempervivum Comellii 12

Silene alpestris 8

•Veronica Teucrium dubia —

(rupestris)

Viola gracilis "

Wahlenbergia serpyllifolia major 1

Open or cool Rich loam and

rock
Open (sun) . . Limy, peaty I'm

Open ,, ,,

Open or cool Limy loam

,, ,, Good loam

Open Cool, moist, limy

silt or loam
Sun Any

Pale blue
Sapphire

amethyst
Turquoise

White

White, gold,
pink, orange
Lavender

White

Salmon rose
Citron

Rich rose . .

Lavend'r bl'e
White

Jime
June - Aug.

May- July..

May-Oct...
May-Oct...

Division

Seed

Divide

Seed

Mav - June Divide or cutting

March-April Seed or cuttings
April - May

Seed or division
Division

9 Open Light, limy loam

May

Pink Summer . .

May - June

White

Feb.-.Manli
May

Shade Good loam ....

Light, limy loam ,,

Cool Rich, limy inam .,

,, „ „ Citron

Good loam .... White

Shade Peat & leaf-mould Violet

Sun Very light loam Steely rosette July

Cool or shade ,. „ White May - Sept.

Sun Any Blue

Light, rich soil Imperial Vl't May-July..

Light, good soil Purple ....

• Trailing

Cuttings
Division

Seed or divide
Divide

152

THE GARDEN.

[March 22, 1913

NOTES ON THE GARDENING
ACROSTICS.

THE acrostics are over and the prize-
money has been distributed, and we
now publish our promised comments.
First let us say that we hope they have
been acceptable to a good many of
our readers, even beyond the number
of those who attempted their solution. The short
explanatory notes of most of the " lights " were
specially printed, in order that, if possible, it might
be so. The following extracts are from two of the
last letters received on the subject : " I am very
pleased to see you are going to give another series
next winter." •' I almost wish the end of the year
had come again so that 1 might tackle some more
of your puzzlers." Such will be the case, we hope.
Profiting, however, by our experience, readers
will find certain changes. The questions will not
be so difficult on the whole, and the marking will
be different. Instead of each acrostic counting
one and there being no sliding scale between
absolute right and absolute wrong, each " light "
correctly solved will count i, and each " firsts "
and each "lasts" also i. Thus, to take No. i,
" China Aster," the full marks would be 12. We
quite see that it is hard to count nothing when, as
in No. ::, so many had all right except the vineyard
" light," wliich should have been Hoxton, but
which a large proportion gave as Hatton Garden.
Our " puzzler " is not infallible, and sometimes,
either intentionally or unintentionally, he is vague ;
hence the wisdom and fairness of our proposed
amended marking. It will also, we hope, promote
increased competition, inasmuch as it will be quite
worth while to send in partly-completed solutions,
which in the last competition were valueless.

The " difficult " question is not so easy of solution,
but we have the satisfaction of knowing that our
" Saint Worrier " (to use a name given him by a
very well known old-time Liverpool cricketer
on account of his blocking tactics in the days of
his youth) knows how to temper his worryings
to the library opportunities of our readers.
-Another season's acrostics will not be so
severe, although we may have to call in some
" Senior Wrangler " to help us in our fractional
calculations when the prizes are sent rovmd. There
will be eight acrostics, or possibly ten, and if
between now and next November any scheme
strikes us as feasible by means of which we might
make two classes of competitors, we will certainly
try it, as our wish is to give as many as we can
of our readers at least a " sporting chance " interest
in them. We take the acrostics seriatim :

No. r. — No fewer than 172 solutions were sent in,
of which III were correct. Our acrostic writer
got frightened and thought he was too easy, and
Nos. 3, 4 and 5 were the result. In the last named
only twelve solutions were sent in, and every one
was wrong. " Ironwort " was put for " Indian
Shot," and " Arbour " or " Arbor " for " Alder."

No. 2. — The stumbling-block was the locality
of the vineyard. One hundred and thirty-seven
solutions were sent in, and only fifteen were correct.
Hatton Garden was a favourite locality, and
Walford's " Old and New London," Vol. IV.,
page 4, was quoted in support.

No. 3. — A great falling ofl'. Only thirty-seven
sent in, out of which but four were right. The
" difficult " plant was variously given as Iris
iberica imd I. reticulata. These would fit in

and would come under the head of " difficult,"
but Iris susiana was the plant intended.

No. 4. — This was undoubtedly too hard. There
were fifteen solutions sent in, and only one was
correct. We congratulate " White Lady " on
being that one. " Singers of an ' O ' " puzzled
nearly everyone. Pelargonium would have done
just as well as Palm ; but we had to keep to our
rules.

No. 5. — Twelve attempts were made to solve
this, and not one succeeded. Olive in the majority
of cases was given as the well-known " green."
We cannot find much about it in comparison to
the Orange, and would be grateful for a note on
the relative importance of the two from any of
those who put it as their solution. " Simpling "
was a stumbling-block in several cases.

No. 6 was much easier, and out of twenty-two
sent in, fomrteen were right.

No. 7. — Sixteen solutions came to hand, of
which six were correct. Several put Hepatica for
Henna as Mahomed's Flower of Paradise.

No. 8. — This was purposely difficult. We have
had several letters asking why " Le Jardin de
Hollande " should be translated " The Dutch
Gardener." The one is not a translation of the
other, but they are both the chosen titles of the
French and English editions of van Oosten's little
Dutch book on bulbs.

With these brief notes we conclude our acrostic
season of 1912-13. If, on reading the foregoing,
readers have any suggestions to make with a
view to our going " one better " next time, we
would be glad to hear from them.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON VEGE-
TABLES.

Potatoes. — In most gardens the earliest Potatoes
have been planted for some considerable time,
and the chances are that they will demand careful
watching to prevent injury or perhaps ruination.
Although a position is chosen with a warm aspect
and preferably where the soil is Ught, it is unwise
to conclude that no frost of sufficient severity
to cut the tops wiU occur. Have immediately at
hand enough light protective material with which
to cover the plants, and one may then feel reason-
ably secure. It is by no means amiss to give
loz. of nitrate of soda to each 3-feet run of drill
just before the first earthing is done, as it tends to
encourage liner stems and leaves. The second-
early varieties, which will be planted directly the
soU and weather are favourable, ought to have
wider spacing between the lines, because they grow
more strongly and to facilitate passage down the
alleys when the time comes to take preventive
measures against the disease. As a general rule,
27 inches should be allowed from row to row,
and a distance of 14 inches should be given between
the sets in them. Each tuber ought to carry two
excellent, hard, deep green sprouts to ensure a
splendid plant ; or, if the tubers have not been
prepared, let the shoots be reduced to two with
the same object. Drilling in is much preferable
to dibbling, and if wood-ashes are at command,
scatter some before the seed sets are placed in
position.

Sowing Tomatoes. — A common error made by
amateurs whose equipment of frames is not com-
plete is to sow their Tomatoes for outdoor culture
too early. Where there is only one structure,
the middle of April is early enough ; but where

there are two of different temperatures, seeds may
be sown between the present date and the end of
the month. To achieve success it is imperative
that the plants shall be hardily and sturdily grown,
and the earlier the sowing is accomplished, the more
trouble is involved in keeping them in that state.
If sufficient small pots are available, sow one seed
in each, as this precludes the possibility of root
distiurbance ; if not, sow very thinly in pans or
boxes to obviate the necessity of any thinning
and to make the task of moving much easier
without giving the slightest check. The slower
the rate of advance, provided there is no com-
plete stoppage, the better the plants will be.

Successive Peas. — The good grower of vege-
tables regards an unbroken succession of Peas as
a necessity. He is by no means satisfied when he
produces exceptionally early or extraordinarily
late crops, unless he has had plenty of perfect
pods in between times. With a view to securing
this he makes sowings at frequent intervals of his
favourite varieties, and he fervently hopes that
the weather will not develop that peculiar phase
which upsets all human calculations. An excellent
rule is to sow a fresh row immediately its prede-
cessor is through the ground. The drills should
be shallow, flat-bottomed and firm, and the seeding,
after heavily coating with red lead where mice
cause worry, must be thin to economise seeds
and labour, and favour a sturdier, far more prolific
plant.

Winter Greens. — The earliest sowings of
Brussels Sprouts, and perhaps of other kinds, too,
have long been made ; but green crops must be
available from early in the autunm until late in
the following spring, and seeds must, therefore,
be sown in batches. Between the present date
and the middle of April, according to the soil and
district, the principal sowings will be made.
Specially-prepared beds for the seeds are desirable,
if not necessary. It is customary to select a position
on a warm border the soil of which is thoroughly
dug to the depth of at least a spit, and with the
top 8 inches may advisedly be mixed a generous
quantity of refuse manure or flaky leaf-mould.
Such material as this is appreciated by the tender
roots, which cling to it with considerable tenacity
and thereby favour transplantation with a ball
of soil attached. Thin seeding and early thinning
are details of paramoimt importance.

Broad Windsor Beans. — A sowing of a good
strain of Broad Windsor Beans must be made
towards the end of the month. It cannot be
claimed that these Beans have the same con-
spicuous importance as Peas in the vegetable
quarters, but in no circumstances must they be
omitted. Double lines are usually preferred to
single ones, and the flat-bottomed drills, 3 inches
deep in most soils, ought, therefore, to be 10 inches
or 12 inches wide. Place the seeds 3 inches apart
along each side i inch from the edge, and later
thin out to 6 inches asunder in both lines for
fruiting. This allows plenty of air space and
profitable plants result. H. J.

TRANSPLANTING ONIONS.

By this time all preparations should be completed
for transplanting autumn-sown Onions. Too much
stress cannot be laid upon the fact that the Onion
is one of the deepest rooting vegetables we have,
and in consequence responds to deep cultivation.
The young bulbs should be planted 6 inchts apar'
in rows with 14 inches between the rows. It is
found that transplanted Onions are less liable to
the attacks of the much-dreaded Onion flv.

<afe>^.

GARDEN.

'^■-

^^^^^m^

^

No. 2158.— Vol. LXXVII.

March 29, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes of the Weick 153

Correspondence

The National Daffo-
dil Society . . . . 154

Snowdrops in the
grey moraiiio . . 154

Mr. I-ester Morse on
Sweet Peaa . . . . 154

A useful greenhouse
plant 155

A beautiful early
Crocus (C. biflorus) 155

Forthcoming events,. 155

ROCK AND Water Garden
Annuals for the lock

5;arden 155

The Shaggy Pasque-
flower 15fl

'I'iie Edelweiss . . 156
greenhouse
A charming cool

greenhouse plant ] 57
Asparagus f^prengeri 137
Flower Garden
Prickly Pears in the
open at Cambridge 157

Flower Garden

Cardinal's flowers . . 157
A July border . . 158
An interesting Easter
flower 158

CoLODRED Plate

Rose Old Gold .. 159

Rose Garden
The priming of Roses 150

Gardening for Beginners
Annual tiowers with

climbing habits.. 161
Columbines for shady
borders .. .. 161

Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 162

For Northern gar-
dens 162

New and Rare
Plants 163

Charrmg timber for
protection .. .. 163

Daffodil Notes . . 163

Answers to Corre-
spondents . . .. 164

IliliU ST RATIONS.

An early spring Crocus 155

Ihe Shaggy Pasque-flower 156

Prickly Pears or Opuntias growing outdoors . . 157

A mixed border in a Yorkshire garden 158

Rose Old Gold Coloured plate

A beautiful Snake's-head Pritillaiy 159

A Hybrid Peipetual Rose before pruning 160

A Hybrid Perpetual Rose after pruning 160

A lamp-post clothed with annual Convolvuluses . . 161

Narcissus Syeorax 163

Clip for iiajnes at shows 164

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, iHll be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he ivill endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or oivner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor tvHl not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof mast not be taken as ei^idence that un
article is accepted. Publication in THE GARDEN ivill alone
be recognised as acceptance.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Officer : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Qarden, W.C.

Potatoes in 1912. — According to the Annual
Returns of Crops just published by the Board of
Agriculture and Fisheries, the Potato crop in 1913
was the lowest on record, the average yield being
4'84 tons per acre, the previous lowest figures
being 4-97 tons in 1900. Owing to a Ivger area
being under Potatoes in 1912, the total production
was not the lowest on record, though it was nearly
610,000 tons less than in igir.

A Beautiful Colour Combination. — A very

charming colour combination that might advan-
tageously be carried out in many gardens was
mentioned by Mr. Dillistone, of Messrs. R. Wallace
and Co., when lecturing before the Chelmsford
Gardeners' Association recently. This was a broad
belt of Lavender, interspersed at intervals with
groups of pink China Roses. The broad belt
could, of course, be modified, the main idea of
combining lavender and pink always being borne
in mind.

The Pasque-FIower. — In the gardens at Lauris-
ton Hall, Kirkcudbrightshire, may be observed
quite a number of fine plants of the Pasque-flower,
Anemone Pulsatilla, growing in the ordinary border.
It is quite apparent that both the chmate and
soil suit this Windflower there. The soil is a loamy
one, and there is no lime or other calcareous matter
in it. The situation is naturally elevated, but
the garden lies in a slight hollow, and is inclmed
to be rather damp and late, this being a somewhat
cold part of the Stewartry and known as the
" Southern Highlands." It is interesting to see
this plant doing so well in such a situation.

Transplanting Laurustinus. — Anyone desirous
of transplanting this well-known winter-flowering
shrub win find the present time most suitable,
and if care is taken, very little check will be given.
It is needless to mention that as much soil as
possible should be kept on the roots ; but if they
have been cut to any extent, it is advisable to
remove some of the shoots to give the plant a more
equal balance. A mulching of manure and occa-
sional syringing, particularly in dry weather,
will be found very beneficial. Little pruning is
necessary for this shrub when once established,
e.xcept to keep it in shape ; this should be done
after flowering.

A Cliarming Hard-Wooded Greenliouse Plant.

Unfortunately, the many showy Australian shrubs
which were so popular in glass-houses in this
country about the middle of last century have
almost disappeared from our gardens, and, \vith
the exception of the Acacias and a few other plants,
we rarely see them now. Yet when anyone does
produce a well-grown and well-flowered group of
these old-fashioned plants there are always plenty
of commendatory notices. Quite recently we
noted a few excellent examples of Chorizema varium,
or C. Chandleri as it has been sometimes caUed.
The plants were 2 feet to 3 feet high, and composed

of from six to eight branches each, every branch
being divided into numerous branchlets, each one
bearing many racemes of the pretty orange and
red Pea-shaped flowers.

Tlie Double-Flowered Gorse. — The various
groups of double-flowered Gorse which are to be
seen about the river end of the Syon Vista at
Kew are a good object-lesson as to satisfactory
clothing of dry, stony banks, for at the present
time they are a wealth of golden blossoms, and
will contmue showy for several weeks to come.
The positions in question are built up with sandy
gravel which has been excavated at various
times from the lake, and the material is wholly
unsatisfactory for the cultivation of many choice
trees or shrubs ; yet with no particular attention
the Gorse grows and blossoms well.

A Pretty Shrubby Aster. — For several weeks
past a shrubby .\ster has been flowering well
in the Temperate House at Kew, where it has .
been one of the most noticeable of the uncommon
plants. The species is A. fruticosus, a native of
South Africa, and although grown in English gardens
as long ago as 1759, it may now be considered to
be practically unknown to the general horti-
culturist. Forming a plant 2 feet or so in height,
the branch system is made up of numerous wiry
branchlets, which are clothed with small, linear
leaves, and terminated during late winter and early
spring with solitary flower-heads half an inch
to three-quarters of an inch across, the ray
florets being mauve and the disc florets yellow.

Dressing Tulip Flowers. — A fashion has lately

sprung up in Holland of dressing the flowers of
Darwui Tulips by turning the three outer perianth
segments back and leaving the three inner ones
standing upright. We are told that the reason
for this practice is that the beautiful colouring
of the interiors may be seen. This object is partly
obtained, but at the cost of the distortion of the
flower. We have noticed a few blooms treated
like this at the Royal Horticultural Society's
shows, and we caimot say they appealed to
us. Why torture the poor Tulip thus ? Was it
not enough to see the wretched Nelumbiums so
maltreated last year ? It is difficult to improve
upon Nature's own way of showing her gems.

Azara microphylla. — This Chilian shrub makes
an excellent plant for training against the walls of
houses. We do not think its good points when
used in such positions are as widely known as they
might be. We know a house as far North as
Cheshire which is partly covered with this Azara
on its south and west aspects. It has been there
for about twenty years, and in the hardest winters
nothing worse has happened than the blackening
of the ends of the longest shoots. As, however,
it does not mind the knife, and as it breaks again
very freely before the summer is far over, the
damage is quite obliterated. It is covered with
small, inconspicuous yellow flowers in March or
early AprU, which emit a Vanilla-like scent.

154

THE GARDEN.

[March 29, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

[The Editor ts not responsible ley the opinions
expressed- by correspondents.)

The National Daffodil Society. — Our letters m

The Garden have acted as a poker ; the Narcissus
committee has been stirred up and is now blazhig
away furiously, as you will see from my notes on
page 163. — Joseph Jacob.
Gunnera manicata and G. scabra. — Whin these

handsome water-side plants begin to deieriorate,
which they will do in course of time, it is a good
plan to move them to another place. The best
time for the operation is March or early in April.
A good piece should be taken from the old plant
with as much root attached to it as possible, and
carefully planted in some good, rich soil. If
possible, a good mulching of cow-mantire sh;-iuld be
given ; in fact, this will be found very beneficial
to the plants at any time. Much finer leaves may
be obtained if the flower-spikes are removed as
soon as they appear. — F. . P.

Tarragon. — To obtam healthy young shoots of
this much-called-for herb, a fresh bed shou'd be
made yearly large mougn to meet the demand.
It is a native of Siberia, and readily miiltip'i' d by
division, or by pulling up young pieces when
about three inches to four inches high and dibbling
Ihem about four inches apart in well-pupared
beds. Water the soil well if the weath'r proves
dry. There is a plant sometimps grown which
greatly resembles the Tarragon. I grew i'. many
years ago, but it was quite destitute of the real
Tarragon flavour, and I was obliged to obtam the
right land from a good firm, after which I ex-
perienced no further difficulty in maint.-'ining
plenty of the true variety. — H. Markham.

Snowdrops in the Grey Moraine. — A remark-
ably pretty sight here has been a good group of
one of the finest of the hybrid Snowdrops at the
top of a grey whinstone moraine, at the base of
a small wall planted with alpines. This Snowdrop
is called Anne of Geierstein, and is one of a set of
hybrids raised by a Lanarkshire amateur between
Galanthus piicatus and G. nivalis a number of years
ago. It is tall, and has large and shapely flowers
of the purest white, save where that is relieved
by the usual green markings. Against the wall,
and at the top of this grey moraine, associated
with Saxifrages, Dianthuses and other plants, this
Snowdrop is most beautiful among the grey whin-
stone chips which surface the moraine. We are
beginning to see how long a period of grace will
be given by the moraine, when we find that many
of the bulbs do so well in it. With the earliest
Saxifrages, Snowdrops, Scillas, the smaller Narcissi
and so forth, the moraine may be a perfect picture
in early spring. — S. Arxott. Dumfries.

A Beautiful Blue-Flowered Greenhouse

Shrub. — Flowers of a bright and attractive shade
"f blue are always admired, either indoors or out-
In the greenhouse blue flowers are not at all
numerous, and among the shrubby occupants of
this structure Leschenaultia bUoba major stands
out almost alone. The general aspect of this
Leschenaultia is that of a Heath, but the leaves
are thicker and more fleshy than those of Heaths.
The flowers, which are freely borne in loose clusters
at the points of the shoots, are about an inch across
and of a lovely shade of blue, somewhat deeper
when first expanded than they are later on. This
Leschenaultia needs much the same treatment
as the greenhouse Heaths, and, like them, it was
formerly grown as a specimen p'.ant. It is a nati\'e

of Australia, as, indeed, are all the other members
of the genus. The last exhibitors of Leschenaultia
biloba major, at least in quantity, were Messrs.
Balchin of Brighton, who at that time had a
branch nursery at Hassooks, where there flourished
not only this Leschenaultia, but many other
almost forgotten hard-wooded plants, all of which
grew luxuriantly in the pure air of the South Downs.
What is more, the blossoms under these conditions
acquired a depth of colouring such as one rarelj;
sees elsewhere — W. T.

Early-Flowered Indian Azaleas. — A variety
of this class of Azalea which has become very
popular of late years is Mme. Petrick, whose dis-
tinguishing feature is the early season at which
it may be had in bloom. It is of good habit, and
the flowers, which are freely borne, are semi-double
and of a deep rose colour. Where these Azaleas
are required early, the merits of this variety must
on no account be overlooked. The best of the
double or semi-double whites for early flowering
is, and has been for a long time, Deutsche Perle,
whose blossoms are particularly pleasing when
partially expanded, as they are then just like tiny
Rosebuds. Another early-flowering variety which
has come promuiently forward during the present
season is J. B. Varonne. It belongs to a section
of these .\zaleas which has of late years gained
many admirers ; that is to say, those whose flowers
are of a salmon or rosy salmon tint, with a light-
coloured margin and, in some cases, a pale centre.
In J. B. Varonne the salmon is more pronounced
than in some of the others, the result beuig a
pleasing flower. Its most prominent desirable
feature is, however, the fact that it blooms earlier
than any others of its class. — H. P.

Mr. Lester Morse on Sweet Peas. — I had not

intended to address you on the subject of the
necessity of tackling the question of Sweet Pea
nomenclature, because I was interested to read
the opinions of the lay public and wished to see
in what direction the trend of opinion might lead.
The mention, however, of two of my varieties by
Mr. F. Herbert Chapman in your issue for March 15,
page 130, makes me think it may be opportune
to offer a few remarks. If the floral committee
of the National Sweet Pea Society were a strong
body, it seems to me that it would be a simple
afiair to grow all the 600 " varieties " and reduce
them straightway to less than 200, and give names
by priority of introduction or, in cases of doubt,
by lot. With the help of local horticultural
societies it would be possible to ensure that these
names should be adhered to, and the approved
varieties could be grown every year against new
challengers. There are various difficulties, but
they can all be got over, and I hope to take active
steps to institute reform during the ensuing winter.
One of the points that arises is that touched
upon by Mr. Chapman, viz., with regard to
differences, reai or imagmed, m varieties that to
the American eye, and perhaps the casual English
eye, look alike, as instanced by Evelyn Hemus
and Mrs. C. W. Breadmore. The former would,
no doubt, retain the name, having been shown
first and given two awards of merit, while anyone
having anything that he considered superior to
it could describe it as Evelyn Hemus (Smith's
or Jones's stock). This would reduce the list
for the public, and at the same time enable the
seedsman to take credit for his efforts. It can
never be possible for any committee to decide
between two stocks down to the last decimal point ;
nor do I think it necessary. For instance, one
diflorence between Evelyn Hemus and Mrs. C. W.

Breadmore is that the former does not grow coarse,
as the latter does. If, nevertheless, it were decided
by an independent body that all cream terra-cotta
picotees should be known as Mrs. C. W. Breadmore,
I should willingly acquiesce. — Hilda Hemus.

Mazus rugOSUS. — With reference to Mazus
rugosus, for which we were granted an award of
merit at the Royal Horticultural Society's
meeting on March 4, and which was illustrated on
page 139 of The Garden for March 15, we
send you the following particulars, as there
appears to be some doubt existing as to
whether it is a perennial. The plant originally
came from the Himalayas, and spreads by means
of procumbent stems, which root as they grow.
These produce flowers i inch in height. The
fact that each rooted stem had a flower when
exhibited seems to have given the impression
that it was a pan of seedlings. When established
it literally covers itself with flowers during the
early spring months, and also produces a few
solitary flowers during the summer, which are of
a deep mauve colour, freely spotted orange on a
white ground. The plant is undoubtedly perennial.
Johnson's " Gardening Dictionary," 1868, describes
both M. rugosus and M. Purnilio as hardy annuals,
but there can be no doubt that this is erroneous.
M. Pumilio is quite a distinct plant. It produces
slender tmderground rhizomes, and the leaves are
spatulate, with slightly-waved edgjs, which are
about an inch long. It only produces its flowers
during the summer months, whereas M. rugosus,
as we have before stated, flowers during the early
spring and summer months. We are not quite
sure about the date of introduction. — The
Warcrave Plant Farm, Limited.

Root-Pruning by Dynamite. — I witnessed an
interesting experiment recently which should be
of value to fruit-growers. Mr. Robert Holmes of
Tuckswood Farm, Norwich, has a batch of healthy,
young Apple trees growing upon his strong, loamy
soil, but they are growing too luxuriantly and
do not fruit owing to their excessive root action.
For a long time horticulturists in Australia and
Canada and the keen growers of the United States
have sought the aid of dynamite in breaking up
subsoil for such purposes as planting trees, also
for further increasing the fertility of the soil,
and in some cases had foimd the value of this
agency for lifting the trees for root-pruning pur-
poses. Mr. Holmes, ever on the alert for something
new in the horticultural world, had come across
this method and decided to become proficient in the
use of the explosive. On the occasion referred to,
thirty-two trees were lifted bodily. It may seem
rough treatment to the trees, but where a large num-
ber have to be done, time and labour count for much,
and, furthermore, observations have proved that
the plan answers just as well as the methodical way
of digging round and cutting under the tree. The
method adopted is to bore with a stout crowbar
a hole about fifteen inches from the trunk to a
point about two feet six inches deep, in a slanting
direction, to about the centre of the tree. A
cartridge with a long fuse is then inserted, and the
hole filled up and rammed hard. A light is then
applied, and the operator has ample time to move
away, just a few feet being sufficient. At the
explosion there is an upheaval of the soil, and the
thick 'roots are torn asunder. It is then the work
of a very few minutes to adjust the soil and make it
firm again. One could see that the force of the
explosion descended as well as .ascended. The
whole operation of lifting thirty-two trees took less
than an hour. — Avtch Pea.

March 29, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

165

A Useful Greenhouse Plant.— Among stove
and greenhouse berried plants, CaUicarpa purpurea
occupies a foremost place, the berries being
numerous and blight, glossy, deep violet in colour.
It is usual to cut the old plants back in spring
and start them into growth, and when the young
shoots are i inch or 2 inches long they may be
taken off as cuttings, but only those with short
joints ought to be chosen. When rooted, pot off
in 2i-inch pots, using the usual compost, and
placing them in a temperature of 65° Fahr. Pinch-
ing back the shoots must be practised till^" August
and all flower-buds removed. Good fruiting
specimens may be obtained from pots 6 inches and
7 inches in diameter, and they must not suffer
from lack of moisture, or red spider will appear.
Plenty of light and air is essential, particularly
after they are permitted to flower, and
during this stage an occasional shake
of each plant will help to secure a
good cnjp of berries. — S.

A Beautiful Early Crocus (C.
biflorus). — This Crocus, frequently
flowering towards the end of January,
is a charming harbinger of spring,
sending up its beautiful silvery white
cups from between the very narrow,
conspicuously striped and somewhat
lax leaves. The buds as they rise are
slender and graceful, while the rich
feathering on the outside of the
petals (appearing at first glance to
be dark brown) proves upon close
examination to be rich purple, which
colouring sometimes tips the petals
also. The central zone of the flower
is rich yellow, as are the three
stamens, while the stigmata, as in so
many species of Croci, are of an
intense shade of orange. Frequently
the petals are semi-transparent, so
that the dark feathering shows
through them when, under the in-
fluence of a sunny day, the flowers
open wide. The corms appear to
thrive in sandy, fibrous loam, though
1 generally add a little leaf-mould
and grit to keep it open, my soil being
rather heavy. As the corras are
cheap — merely yd. per dozen — there
IS no reason why they should not be
extensively employed in the rock
garden, where the flowers give a
ilelightlul touch of brightness during the dull
winter days. — Reginai d A. Malby.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

ANNUALS FOR THE ROCK GARDEN.

A ROCK garden or rock path is a charming
sight when well furnished, proN-iding
rock or stone of suitable colour is used
i and the permanent subjects planted
^ to cover it are carefully chosen and
rightly placed. However, as it is
some time before the plants will cover their allotted
spaces, during the first year or two one must have
recourse to quicker-growing subjects. There are
so many annuals now, both dwarf and tall, which
may be used that they are indispensable, and I am
sure, when once seen, will be looked for again.
Many may be sown in the open, others are

and there is now plenty of variety. The dwarf
forms may be planted in masses of one colour,
and should be given a bold position, when their
beauty will be much enh.inced. The intermediate
varieties, which grow about eighteen inches high,
may be used in the same way. The Antirrhinum
is not particular as to soil, therefore may be planted
where more fastidious plants in this respect would
fail.
Annual Larkspurs and Pinks. — Delphinium

Blue Butterfly is very pretty, and should be sown
early to obtain the best results. This should be
given good soU in a position where it will not get
too dry, and it will then present its true character.
It is one of the best blue-flowered annuals we have,
and will flower over a long period. Then come
Dianthus chinensis, or Indian Pinks, which are

AN EARLY SPRING CROCUS (C. BIFLORUS) IN A GARDEN NEAR LONDON.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

April I. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting
and Exhibition at Vmcent Square, Westminster.
Lecture at 3 p.m. by Mr. Arthur W. Paul on " The
Literature of the Rose." Horticultural Club's
Meeting. Scottish Horticultural Association's
Meeting. National .\mateur Gardeners' Associa-
tion's Meeting.

April 2. — Royal Horticultural Society's General
Examination in Horticulture. North of England
Horticultural Society's Show at Liverpool (two
days).

.\pril 3. — Linnean Society's Meeting. Huntuig-
donshire Daffodil and S.Dring Flower Show.

April 4. — Kingsbridge Daffodil and Spring
Flower Show.

April 5. — Societe Fran(jaise d' Horticulture de
Londres Meeting. New York International Flower
Show (eight days).

best sown under glass and afterwards transplanted,
and of these latter I will give a selection. There
are, first, the Ageratums of soft blue, lavender
and white, ranging in height from 4 inches to
18 inches ; Abronia umbellata (the Sand Verbena),
rosy pink and of trailing habit. Then comes the
annual Alyssum, Snow Carpet or procumbens,
which should be planted in good masses to produce
the best effect. Seed of this may also be sown
where the plants are to bloom. The individual
plants spread out very quickly and remain in
bloom a long while. The flowers are very nuiiute,
but produced in the greatest profusion. To go from
white to scarlet, there is Alonsoa Warscewiczii
compacta, which is the best. Planted in soil that
is not too rich, it will not grow too tall and will
flower more freely.

The Useful Snapdragon. — The next we come to
are the Antirrhinums of the dwarf and inter-
mediate sections. Though not true annuals, they
are usually treated as such. They have been much
improved as regards colour and form of late years

really biennials, but if sown early and treated as
annuals, make lovely pieces of colour. Salmon
Queen, The Bride, laciniatus. Queen of Holland
and Eastern Queen are all good varieties of different
heights. The Nemesia is quite at home in the
reck garden. It enjoys plenty of sun, and its
roots should be kept moist and allowed good soil to
grow in. The flowers are of all shades of yellow,
red, cream pink, and white, and seen under strong
sunlight are most gorgeous. There are now some
new hybrids oi a li>\-ely pale blue, and another of
pale lemon colour. These are dwarf in growth,
and I should say would be very useful.

Another beautiful little plant is Phacelia cam-
panularia, of a lovely deep blue. The flower is
something like a blue Gentian, both in colour and
form, and produces a striking effect, however
planted. The foliage also turns a pretty shade
with age. The next on my list is the Portulaca,
a half-hardy annual especially suited for rockwork
gardens, and one that will thrive in a dry, sunny
position, where it wUl be seen at its best. It

156

THE GARDEN.

[March 29, 1913.

quickly covers the ground, grows about six inches
high, and the colours are various shades of orange
and yellow.

The Silenes are very pretty, and should be sown
in the summer and transplanted to bloom in the
spring. They are very dwarf, seldom reaching
more than 6 inches high, and prefer soil not too
rich and an open position. Empress of India has
crimson flowers and flower-stalks. Snow King
and pendula alba are two good whites, and pendula
compacta and Double Pink are two first-rate
pinks. The latter is a very showy plant.

Although Statices, the next on my list, are mostly
perennials, there is one exception, Statice Suworowi,

The Candytufts, which are so free-flowering
and sweet-scented. Tiiere is the White Spiral,
which grows about a foot high, and also lilac,
purple, carmine, crimson and cardinal, which are
somewhat dwarfer. All are very beautiful, and
should be sown in good-sized patches of one colour.
Pick the faded flowers off, and stir the soil occa-
sionally to promote new growth.

Dimorphotbeca aurantiaca is a decided acquisi-
tion. Tlie colour is a rich orange, with a black disc,
and the flowers are little affected by the weather,
although the plant is at its best when warm and
sunny, and the flowers also open better. The various
coloured hvbrids should also be included. Another

THE SHAGGY PASQUE-FLOWER (ANEMONE VERNALIS) IN A SOUTH WOODEORD

GARDEN.

a plant of singular appearance. The foliage looks
something Hke a Dandelion leaf, and the flower-
spikes are thrown up from the centre. The colour
is rosy pink, and the individual blossoms are very
minute, packed closely; together on stalks about
eighteen inches high.

Sowing and Thinning.— I will now name some
that may be sown where they are to b'oom, and wit!
proper attention to sowing, thinnnig and keeping
clean will produce equally as good results as those
that are raised under glass and planted out. The
great thing with all annuals is to thiji them out
sufficiently, according to the kind, and give them
every encouragement afterwards. I flrst mention
the Pimpernel, or Anagallis, to give it its proper
name. There are two colours, pale blue with a
black blotch in the throat, and a brick red shade
with the same markings. They remain in bloom
a long time, especially if the faded blooms are
kept picked off. They should be given a warm,
sunny position, or the flowers do not open
well.

Another effective plant is Cacalia coccinea,
the Tassel Flower. This grows about a foot in
height, and has flowers like s double Daisy on
slender stems. The foliage is very luxuriant
and of a nice green shade. It is a plant that is
always noticed by reason of its very bright colour.
Then come

pretty plant is lonopsidium acaule, the Violet
Cress, a tiny thing covered with little lilac-coloured
blossoms. It is admirable for sowing in narrow
crevices between the stones, and should be kept
moist at the root, or it is apt to shrivel up. It
does not grow more than 2 inches high, and does
not spread like many dwarf plants. Then come
the Linarias or Toadflax, indispensable little
plants. Aurea reticulata is crimson and gold,
and bipartita splendens is purple and light blue.
Both grow about a foot high, and should be sown
thinly and not thinned out too much, as they are
very slender in growth. The blooms are very
small and something like a miniature Antirrhinum.
I consider them among the prettiest of our dwarf
annuals. Linum grandiflorum rubrum is a dark
shade of red, as the name suggests, and is very nice
in contrast with some of the lighter-coloured
flowers. Then the

Dwarf Nasturtium deserves a place, and is
another plant that flowers better in soil that is
not too rich, and also in a dry season. Two or three
sowings should be made to prolong the season.
The flowers are all shades of yellow, crimson,
scarlet and rose, and some are spotted and veined
with deeper markings. Some have golden foliage
and others are silver variegated, which produce a
fine effect even if they never flower. The next
that claims attention is the Nemophila, a most

attractive plant when in bloom. The colours are
very pleasing and dainty. Insignis is a Cambridge
blue ; i. alba, white ; maculata, white, with purple
blotch ; and atrocaerulea, bright blue, with
small spots. They all grow from 3 inches to 6 inches
high and are very hardy. Two or three sowings
at intervals should be made, as the plants do
not last so long as some annuals. They may also
be sown in autumn to bloom the following spring.
Saponaria calabrica is an annual of rose colour,
and there is also a white form. Both are old
favourites with many. They are both very dwarf,
and may be used in the front portion of the rockery.
1 conclude my list with the Swan River Daisy
(Brachycome),. a flower very much like a small
Cineraria stellata. From a mixed packet of seed
one may get many shades, or they may be pur-
chased in separate colours. It should have fairly
good soil, and be well watered if the weather is
dry. The foliage is very light and pretty, and the
plants grow about a foot or even less in height.
It remains in bloom a long while and, though last, is
certainly not the least of those I have mentioned.
There are many more that I could name, but those
I have mentioned will be found very useful and
add greatly to the beauty of the rock garden.

R. W. Thatcher.
Tlie Gardens, East Carlton Park, Market Har-
borough.

THE SHAGGY PASQUEFLOWER

(Anemone veknalis.)
Of the m.iny members of this lovely family, none
appeals to me so forcibly as A. vernalis, the Shaggy
Pasque-flower. As the snow recedes from the
highest alpine pastiures, leaving the ground sodden
and black with the previous season's decavmg
foliage, there rises from a few prostrate, deeply-
divided leaves a beautiful hud covered with
brown silky fur. When this opens there emerges
a dainty, somewhat Crocus-like, Anemone flower,
white or pale pink in colour, flushed with amethyst,
supported on a shaggy stem rarely more than
I inch or ij inches high. .After pollination the
petals and calyx agam close over the vital organs,
and, the stem elongating, allows the embryo fruit
to assume a pendent habit, in our gardens this
daiuty Windflower has rather a bad reputation,
since (as it is one of the first to open its blossoms
in the mountains — frequently being in full flower
within a few feet of the receding snow) it is very
apt to attempt t" throw up its blossoms during
one of the many mild or soft intervals which
characterise our winters, when, of course, it promptly
mildews off, not infrequently infecting the whole
plant. I have found that it grow^ very satis-
factorily in my moraine. This Anemone is easily
raised from seed, and I now have several plants
showing flower-buds, the 5eed of which was sown
in February, 1911, a satisfactory result when we
consider that many Anemones take several years to
come to maturity. Reginald A. Malby.

THE EDELWEISS.

(Leontopodium alpinumI.
This very popular alpine may be grown satisfac-
torily in a lowland garden, providing that congenial
surroundings can be found for it. In the first place
it is necessary to find a suitable niche in the rock
garden — the position should be exposed, for any-
thing in the nature of heavy shade from trees is very
harmful to the Edelweiss. The soil should be of .m
open sandy nature, for a heavy adhesive soil, where
moisture is likely to collect, would onlv l>e followed
by disastrous results.

March 29, 191.3.] ■

THE GAltUEN.

157

THE GREENHOUSE.

A CHARMING COOL GREENHOUSE
PLANT.

(Calceolaria alba.)

ALTHOUGH discovered in Chile so long
i\ ago as 1844. this pretty plant is seldom

/ % met with in our gardens. I must
^■■^^ confess to never having seen it until
• * a year or two ago, when an amateur

friend gave me a few cuttings to root
lor him. This I did ; but when my friend dis-
covered that this Calceolaria required greenhouse
treatment he had no use for it, so I secured the
lot, and a really handsome and useful plant it has
proved. Like all Calceolarias, it requires very
little artificial heat ; indeed, the cooler it is kept
the better it appears to thrive. After the cuttings
are well rooted thev should be pinched to induce
a bushy growth and be grown steadily on. A
compost of good turfy loam, leaf-mould and
sand suits them admirably ; but the addition of
a little well-rotted manure and bone-meal is an
improvement. The flowering pots need not be
larger than the 6-inch size. Moderately firm pot-
ling seems desirable. After the
pots are well filled with roots, an
occasional soaldng of weak liquid
manure, or Ichthemic Guano in
water, is vers beneficial. Slender
stakes about eighteen inches long
must be provided in good time,
and the shoots lightly tied to
these. Like all the members of
the family, this variety is very
liable to be attacked by green fly. It
is well, therefore, to vaporise occasion-
ally to keep these pests in check.

Coming into bloom in July, the
plants continue in full beauty for
three months at least, and even
on November 23 last there were a
few nice blooms left. It is a plant
that claims attention at once, as it
is so unlike any of the other
inhabitants of the cool greenhouse.
Ever> visitor here last summer was
interested in it, and not one knew
what it was. The foliage is light
and graceful, and not at all like
any of the herbaceous or shrubby
kinds usually cultivated in our
gardens. When out of flower, several
people have mistaken this Calceolaria
for the perennial Alonsoa. The
foliage is, indeed, very similar in
size and shape, but the Calceolaria
when touched has the sticky feeling
of Diplacus glutinosus. The flowers
are pure white, small in size and PRlc

borne in graceful sprays on wire-like
stems. They are excellent for cutting, and alto-
gether it is a very desirable plant. C. Blair.

Preston Hottsc Garden^,. Linlithgow.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

PRICKLY PEARS IN THE OPEN AT
CAMBRIDGE.

NOT the least interesting feature of the
famous Botanic Gardens at Cam-
bridge is the large colony of Prickly
Pears, or Opuntias, that for years
have been established in a sunny
position near to the range of glass-
houses. Opuntia robusta, a particularly well-
named species, seen in the foreground of the
accompanying illustration, has so far grown beyond
bounds that it would be an extremely difficult
task to enter by the greenhouse door, even if one
wished to do so. The flat, more or less circular
branches, studded with spines, are from i foot
to i\ feet across. The plants are literally growing
wild, and just revel in their warm, sunny position
outdoors. The less formidable but equally rampant
Prickly Pear spreading over a wide area in the
background of the picture is O. cantabridgiensis,
the origin of which is unknown. There are many
and diverse forms of Opuntia in this'collection, and
among others might be mentioned O. arborescens,

CARDINAL'S FLOWERS.

The tall perennial Lobelias have much of interest
in their history, and a certain degree of mystery
attaches to the varieties at present cultivated,
hybridists having so mixed the progeny of species
that it is impossible to unravel their pedigrees.
Those which I cultivate were selected from seedlings
of many colours, the deep crimson ones alone being
retained. So early as 16313 Lobelia cardinalis
was cultivated in England, the stock having arrived
via France from Canada. It was then known as
" Trachelium americanum flore ruberrima sive
Planta Cardinalis, the rich crimson Cardinal's
Flower." In 1665, Rea incidentally mentions the
introduction of L. syphilitica in these words :
" There is another of this kind (which lately came
from Virginia) with blew flowers " ; and it is worth
while noting that the early authorities called the
plant " Cardinal's Flower " and not Cardinal
Flower, as we do to-day. Valuable additions were
obtained in L. fulgens in 1809 and L. ignea in 1838
(see Paxton's " Magazine of Botany," Vol. VI.),
the flowers of this being blood red and the leaves
coloured. A ^vriter in Harrison's " Floricultural
Cabinet," in which the flower is also portrayed,
recommends the stems to be stopped to induce

KLV PEARS OR OPUNTIAS GROWING OUTDOORS AT THE CAMBRIDGE BOTANIC GAKD1-,.\S.

ASPARAGUS SPRENGERL

If seedlings a-'e transferred at an early stage to
4 -inch pots, it is surprising what nice little bushy
plants they make before any very long shoots are
forra'-d. We have seen these used very effectively
for corners of dinner-tables and on smal) tab.'es in
drawing-rooms. They remain a considerable time
in this small state, and, being easily raised, seed may
from time to time be sown to provide succession.

a native of Mexico, said to attain a height ot
20 feet to 30 feet at its southern limits, but so far
of dwarf dimensions at Cambridge ; and O.
monocantha, the One-spined Prickly Pear, a native
of Brazil.

It might be mentioned that the illustration was
prepared from a photograph taken only a few-
days ago, the plants having wintered in the open.

The economic uses of Opuntias are varied.
The fruits, known either as Prickly Pears or Indian
Figs, are edible. Some species are grown in warmer
climes as food for the cochineal,^while'others are
appropriately used for hedge-making.

a bushy habit, which might do for pot culture,
but would inevitably retard the production ol
bloom out of doors. The name Lobelia, it may be
added, was bestowed upon a stove shrub now called
Scaevola Plumieri, by Father Plumier, which was
introduced by Catesby in 1-724. Though one of
the most glorious of all autumnal flowers, it is
seldom seen at its best, and in the majority of
gardens one visits it is never seen at all. It is too
true that it is sometimes a difficult plant to preserve
over the winter, a fact recognised by Rea, who gives
very good instructions for its preservation. But
by consistent attention to a few details, losses

158

THE GARDEN.

[March 29, 1913.

A JULY BORDER. AN INTERESTING EASTER FLOWER.

The portion of flower border shown in the accom- (Fritillaria Meleagris.)

panying illustration is in the garden of Mr. Walter Fritillaria Meleagris, commonly Ivnown as the
Jesper, Beechwood, .Menston-in-Wharfedale, York- Snake's-head Fritillary, is one of the gems among
shire, who kindly sent us the photograph and the j British plants. There are a few places in England
following notes : " The photograph was taken ' where it may be seen growing freely, particularly
when the border was at its height of beauty, i.e., j in the meadows round Oxford, where children
about the second week in July. The flowers | gather the flowers in large bunches as a rule about
just showing at the bottom right-hand corner j Eastertide. It also occurs among the rich lime-
are Campanulas. High above them is the splendid I stone pastures of North Wilts, where the flowers
Delphinium Reynaldo. Between this and the I are called Toads'-heads by the natives. Near
Cupressus is the beautiful creamy Delphinium j to the village of Oaksey are two or three meadows.

Beauty of Langport, which shows to great advan-
tage against the dark foliage behind. Just below
is a young plant of D, Belladonna, in front of which

may be reduced to a point not worth taking account
of. Warmth is inimical to the plant in winter,
for, though not hardy enough to stand every
winter unharmed in the open, it is at least suffi-
ciently hardy to be preserved in a cold frame.
The plan I have practised for many years is to
lift each plant with a ball of soil, packing the
plants close together in 4-inch-deep cutting-bo.xes,
which are afterwards arranged in frames and deeply
covered with dry, flaky leaf-soU. In very frosty
weather a further covering of dry straw above the
leaf-soil is suflScient to enable them to withstand
the winter.

Propagation is effected by division in spring,
when the boxes are transferred to one of the plant-
houses, the bulk of the leaf-soil removed, and the
plant, for the first time since being
lifted, watered, and afterwards
given moisture as required. Divi-
sion does not take place till growth
is well advanced, when each piece
contains three or four growths,
and is replanted in an open rich
compost in other boxes, in a week
or so being again transferred to
cold frames, and finally planted
about the end of April. A highly
manured soil, with summer mulch-
ings, is essential to success. Equally
important is the way the plants
are arranged, which should always
be in masses. Single - stemmed
pieces planted widely apart can
afiord no good idea of the decora-
tive value of the plants ; therefore,
when grouped by themselves, they
should almost touch each other.
That is the way I use them in
mixed borders. But for the best
decorative effects they must be
arranged in large beds or borders
with other suitable plants. In the
present year I shall use about
1,500 pl-nts in large oblong beds,
mixed with Centaurea Cyanus to a
width of about 6 feet, with Tri-
tomas and blue Stock-flowered
Larkspurs behind. Last year, in
an arrangement that gave much
satisfaction, the Lobelias were
thickly dotted'as an under-ground
to heavy masses of the same Lark-
spurs in batches of five, which
formed pillars 7 feet in height. A
few tall yellow Antirrhinums were
also introduced, with a dwaif
mauve Ageratum filling any odd
vacancies. Where many cut
flowers are a necessity, a portion
of the stock shoi:'d be grown for

the purpose of providing material to cut. The 1 rise the handsome, tall leaves of Iris Monnieri, Snake's-head
flower-spikes cannot be surpassed for richness of ' not yet in bloom. Below this is a spike of the
colouring, and few things last better. Very i white Mallow, while on the stone edging are Saxi-
briUiant flowers for table decorations have been | frages and the charming little Campanulas pusilla
condemned, but not everybody disapproves of , and pusilla alba. In the centre of the picture,
strong colours, and for this purpose, too, the ] just to the left of Delphinium Beauty of Langport,
flowers are greatly valued. In fact, there are a 1 are the graceful spikes of .Anchusa italica Opal.
great many uses to which these brilliantly- Beyond is an old-established plant of the early-
coloured flowers may be put, both in a growing 1 flowering white Phlox, and near the edge of the
and a cut state, and it is difficult to understand ' border is a group of Veronica spicata alba. Further

A MIXED BORDER IN A

YORKSHIRE GARDEN,
TAKEN IN JULY.

FROM A PHOTOGRAPH

why they are not more extensively grown.
They are well worth taking some pains over, and
are sure to be highly appreciated if grown to
anything like perfection.

Prestonkirk, N,B. R, P. BbotbsrstO"

groups of Delphiniums are seen in the background.
Altogether, the effect of this long border (some
12 feet wide) in what we call our ' blue fort-
nights ' in July is one that lingers long in the
memory, even vvhen winter is upon us,"

where it can be seen in magnificent profusion.
Concerning Fritillaria Meleagris in this particular
neighbourhood, it is a source of wonder to the
natives that the colony is on
the march, ever moving, though
but slowly, in an easterly direc-
tion. A most interesting article
on this subject by a corre-
spondent, " F. J. F.," appeared
in The Garden, July 29, igii,
from which we take the follow-
ing : " As regards the gradual
eastward march, I have a very-
respected relative who has lived
continuously in that village the
whole of her life, something
over ninety years. Within her
memory the Fritillarias have
moved across several fields. I
cannot help thinking that three
or four centuries ago the original
stock was planted in the gar-
dens attached to Malmesbury
Abbey, fostered there by those
monks to whom we owe the
preservation of so much. As in
course of time the Abbey, with
its gardens, fell into decay, so
these flowers, in accordance with
the direction of the wind at
the time the seeds were ripened,
sowed themselves on their eastern
front, while the old bulbs on
the western rear gradually died
out. My theory may be wrong,
but it is very feasible, and cer-
tainly is able to account for
this isolated colony of a very
rare and very beautiful native
flower."

There are many beautiful

varieties of this subtle flower,

one of the finest being that

named Emperor, illustrated on

page 159. There is a belief

among country folk that no one

can successfully transplant the

but this, no doubt, is the

result of lifting when in flower, which would,

naturally, end in disastrous results. The bulbs

may be removed with impunity in August, and

will thrive in the border or the rock garden if

given congenial soil.

.^s pot plants, with several bulbs in a pot,
the varieties of F. Meleagris are exceedingly
dainty. Moreover, they may be grown in bowls
filled with fibre, in much the same way as
Hyacinths, Daffodils, Tulips, or Crocuses, that are
now so extensively grown as room plants. We
have quite recently seen some excellent bowls of
Snake's-heads, but the bulbs require very careful
treatment when grown in this manner.

,„ppln>iniUo nil-: (i.lRDl'.N, Mmrli ^olh. 191 3

^»,

ROSE OLD GOLD.

Hiitlsnn £■ Kearns. Lid.. Printers, London, S.B.

March 29, 1913]

THE GARDEN.

159

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATD 1468.

ROSE OLD GOLD.

THE wonderful colours, or blen dings ol
colours, we are getting in our modem
Roses were certainly never dreamed ol
by Rose-growers of years ago. In
the Florist of October, 1855, the late
Thomas Rivers wrote : " One almost
fears the point of perfection has been attained,
and that no better Roses than those we now
possess can, or will, be originated." WTiether
Mr. Rivers referred to form, colour, or vigour one
does not know, but surely all three attributes
have been vastly improved since those days.
Even as far back as twenty years one would
not have ventured to prophesy that we
should be having such colours as raisers are
now giving us. Certainly one of
the most delightful will be the
Hybrid Tea Old /Gold, the splendid
production ofc-ijlessrs. S. McGredy
and Son. As I saw it at Porta-
down last July it was truly mar-
vellous, and I was not surprised
to find that this variety
secm-ed for the lady decorator the
first prize for a table display. It
was thought, when the same raisers
gave us Mrs. .\lfred Tate, that they
had scored a triumph, and now we
have Old Gold, which seems to be a
replica of Mrs. Alfred Tate in all
save colour ; in fact. I think I am
right in saying that the latter Rose
was one of its parents. That it will
be a popular garden Rose is already
assured, and I predict for it a great
success.

Where these raisers are obtaining
these glorious shades is a mystery.
Of course, they have, as all raisers
have, their own " bloods," and I
fancy they have still more wonders
in store, for I question if there has
ever been seen a house of Rose
seed to equal that at Portadown
last year. Fancy one house 90 feet
long containing plants carrying some
7,000 cross- fertilised pods of seed.
Upon one plant alone I saw some
300 pods, all tallied, and this plant,
a seedling, had already produced
Roses for its owners that had gained fo\u: or five
gold medals. This firm has some of the most
glorious canary yellows I have ever seen. One
or two especially took my fancy, for the flowers
were produced on stems as rigid as a Mrs. Theodore
Roosevelt, and all who have much to do with
bedding Roses know what a valuable trait this
is in a Rose. I only hope Messrs. McGredy will
not keep us waiting long for them, and I almost
wish they would send out a dozen novelties every
year, although our collection now is so embarrassing.
I am not one of those who bemoan the influx
of novelties, providing they are really good and
an advance upon e.xisting sorts. By all means
let us encourage them in every way we can. Some
old-fashioned florists may repudiate these newer
artistic Roses and say they are wanting in form
and substance ; but I know which are most
popular with the general public, and these are the
decorative kinds, of which Old Gold is a beautiful
example. Danecroft.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

THE PRUNING OF ROSES.

(Continued from page 144.)
Hybrid Perpetijals.

HYBRID PERPETUALS are generally
nice, easy subjects to prune, and it is
perhaps possible to grasp the general
principles of pruning dwarf plants
more readily with them than with
most other groups of Roses. It is,
therefore, worth while to consider their pruning
rather caxefully. It should be taken in hand during
March, and in the writer's opinion the earlier in
that month the better, and even the end of February
may often be convenient if there are many to get
through ; but this view is not accepted by all
rosarians. However this be for reasons which
%vill appear later, the earlier in the year we
prune these Roses, the harder they may safely be

buds at the top of the pruned stem will grow
out and produce flowers, and, besides this, some-
times in the first growing period, but more often
during the second period, the third, fourth and
occasionally the fifth bud from the top will break
and form shoots ; but the lower buds and the
invisible or dormant buds at the base of the plant
will not grow either in the first or second growing
period. This effect and mode of growth may be
traced in the left-hand branch of the plant shown
in the illustration {Fig. i) of a Hybrid Perpetual
before pruning. This' method of pruning may
often be noticed in old-fashioned gardens. Its
disadvantages are, first, that it does not allow of
the replacing of the old wc ■"!, basaV shoots being
seldom produced ; and, secondly, the growing and
flowering parts of the plant in a course of years
gradually rise further and further from the roots.

Turning now to the opposite extreme, where
the pruning has been too severe, we may perhaps

A B1,AUTIFUL SNAKt'S-HEAD FRITILLARV.^FRITILLAKIA MELE.AUKIS^EMPEROR.

cut back. Whether we desire our flowers for
exhibition or for our own enjoyment in the garden,
there should not be any very great difference in
our treatment of the plants, for in the case of
Hybrid Perpetuals the object in view will, in both
cases, be the production of well-shaped specimen
flowers. The difference in treatment between
these Roses when grown for exhibition flowers
and for the garden will generally occur later on,
when the thinning out of the superfluous shoots
takes place in May. The best course to pursue
in pruning will be most simply sho^vn if we consider
first the effect of pruning these Roses too little,
and then of pruning them too severely.

As is well known, the Hybrid Perpetuals have
two flowering periods in each year, each flowering
being preceded by a period of growth, the first
talving place in spring and early summer, the second,
in late summer, ultimately carrying the autumn
flowers. The effect of leaving the stems too long
at pruning-time will generally be that one or two

find a single shoot only starting from the cut-back
shoot of the previous year, and, this being insufficient
to absorb the sap sent up by the roots, the dormant
buds at the base of the plant are forced into prema-
ture growth and push up strong, sappy, basal
shoots, called by the .Americans " watcrshoots "
and by the French " gourmands." They usually
occur on the same side of the stem as that on which
the bud was originally inserted, and absorb the
energy of the plant, to the detriment of the liigher
and more useful branches.

It is probable that in most cases the best flowers
are obtained when only two of the buds on the
young stems of the previous year are allowed
to develop in the first or summer growth, and they
should be as near to its base as practicable ; but
the cutting back should not be sufficiently severe
to induce the dormant buds in the collar of the
plant to take part in this first growth. These
basal shoots, however, will generally develop in
the course of the second or autumnal growth.

160

THE GAllDEN.

[March 29, 1913.

It is true the autumn flowers on these particular
basal growths may often be poor, but they will
not be the only flowers, and if the stems have been
formed early enough to ripen well, they may be
retained and utilised for the production of the
flowering shoots of the following spring, the old
and now branched stem which had produced
flowering shoots the previous summer being cut
right away. But it is often well to retain one or
two of the best of these oM stems.

By following this method we practically work
each stem on a two years' system, and the renewal
of the young wood becomes continuous. We may
now see why it is that the later in the season
pruning is deferred, the more buds should be left
on the stems, and, conversely, the earlier we prune,
the harder it is safe to cut back. Although the
great bulk of the food supply comes from the leaves,
yet early in the year, before these have developed,
the material for the formation of the early growth
must of necessity come from the reserve material
stored in the roots and carried up by the rising
sap. Early in the season the flow of sap and reserve
material is not great, and if the plant be then
pruned hard back, though only a few visible buds
are left, yet these will slowly develop without
starting the dormant buds in the first growing
period. Not so, however, if the same course
be pursued later on in the season, when the
flow of sap and reserve material is in full
swing.

The system indicated above may seem simple
enough to read of, and so it is in practice with
free-growing Hybrid Perpetuals which readily
make ripened shoots in their second growth ;
but they do not all do this, particularly the weakcr-

I. A HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSE BEFORE PRUNINl',

growing varieties, such as Duchess of Bedford
and Prince Arthur. Some of these plants will
often fail to push up any young basal shoots at
all, or such shoots as are produced in this way
may be sappy, unripe and quite unreliable. What
is the pruner to do then ? Dogberry chargi d liK
watch to bid any man stand in the Prince's nani'
"How if a' will not stand?" said the wateh
" Why, then," answered Dogberry, " take no not.
of him, but let him go . . . and thank Godyc^ii
are rid of a knave." Many a good man before
and since Dogberry, when deahng with a subject,
whether animal or vegetable, which declines to
act in the manner expected of it, has found no
better answer than Dogberry's. Here, in fact, the
pruner's art, his experience and judgment come
into play. The plant may be healthy enout:li.
but it has perhaps been neglected, and he miisi
consider how to restore it for the production ni
useful new growths. It may be sufficient to prune
the plant to one or two eyes of the last summer'^
growth, or the shoots may be left longer and
partially bent or pegged down ; or, again, pruning
may be deferred somewhat later than is usual,
so that the sudden check may induce it to break
back. In the case of Roses that have been freshly
planted in the previous autumn and do not seem
to have come through the winter well, it is often
policy to delay pruning somewhat beyond the
ordinary period. Everything must be done to
promote new growth, and, in particular, that
from near the base of the plant, while if,
when all has been done for this end that is
practicable, success does not result, then
take Dogberry's advice and let him go, to
make way for a better plant.

In cases where strong-growing
Hybrid Perpetuals, such as Frau
Karl Druschld, Hugh Dickson and
Commandant Felix Faure, are
grown in isolated beds and the
long, autumnal growths are ob-
jected to, it is sometimes advis-,
able that the growth of the
previous year should be left
longer than usual, something, in
f ict, like the plant shown in
l-'igs. I and 2, in order to check
t lis tendency to form basal
s .oots ; and some even go so far
a; to lift the bushes and replant
every autumn with a similar end
in view.

There arc .also a few Hybrid
Perpetuals, mostly of recent intro-
duction and single-flowered or
nearly so, at least with rather
small and numerous flowers, such
as Maharajah, Commander Jules
Gravereaux, Ards Rover and, if
it can be included here, Gloire
des Rosomanes, where the pro-
duction of a large quantity of
bloom is of first importance, and
here, again, very little pruning is
necessary ; in fact, it may be con-
fined to thinning out old shoots
which have already flowered,
where necessary, to give room for
younger shoots to develop.

Let us now turn for a moment
to the illustrations. Fig. i
shows a rather vigorous Hybrid
Perpetual before pruning, and
Fig. 2 is the same plant after

2. THE SAME BUSH AFTER PRUMING. THE

PLANTS WERE LIFTED AND POTTED FOR
CONVENIENCE IN PHOrOGRAPHING.

the operation has been performed. Taking the
stems which remain after pruning in order from
the left No. r is an old stem on which two shoots
of the previous year have been retained. As
this old stem is to bo kept, one or two buds of the
young shoots from it must also be retained. Next
comes No. 3, a young, vigorous stem ; No. 3,
another old stem with two young shoots ; No. 4,
a vigorous young growth ; and No. 5, pointing
towards us, a rather less robust young shoot.
For strong growers, such as Frau Karl Druschki,
Duke of Edinburgh, or Hugh Dickson, this amount
of pruning would be about right ; but with the
majority of the Hybrid Perpetuals it would be
better to shorten still further. In the case of a
variety rather less vigorous than those named,
such as Victor Hugo, Nos. 2 and 4 should be
shortened to about half the length shown, choosing,
of course, an outward pointing bud for the top
one retained. No, 3 might be removed altogether,
and No. 5 shortened by about one-third of the
length shown in Fig. 2. It would probably in
any case be necessary to leave No. i in order to
keep the plant nicely balanced, but not more than
three good buds should be left on each of the two
young branches.

But whichever mode of pruning is adopted,
something yet remains to be done. Tliere is the
end of a stump left in the middle of the tree,
and two stumps may be seen at the base. If these
are left, they will only die, and perhaps lead to
the introduction of disease. They must be pared
right away with the pruning-toife, often an awkward
job, and the wound painted over with some styptic,
such as knotting or priming paint. This styptic
may also be applied to the cut tips of the branches.

I have dealt with the Hybrid Perpetuals at
considerable length, because the theory of the
operation is more readily grasped with Roses of
this class than with any others. In my next article
I propose to apply this method to the Hybrid
Teas, Teas and Chinas. Tlie pruning and training of
the multifloras and wichuraianas should have been
finished before January was out, and the rugosas are
usually pruned in February, so I do not propose
to deal with them at present. White Rose.

[To he continued.)

March ag.'igis.]

THE GAEDEN.

161

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

ANNUAL FLOWERS WITH CLIMBING HABITS.

T

HE value of climbing annuals for Although not an annual ni the strict sense of
quickly covering bare fences, ciothing the term, Cobaea scandens is grown as such in
ugly corners, cr hiding up any un- ' many gardens in the South. In one of the London
sightly object in the garden can hardly parks the writer has often seen this handsome

be overrated. Speaking generally, the
cultivation of climbing annuals is
simplicity itself. The spring-sown seedlings grow
rapidly, and beyond an occasional
tie or a little care in training the
shoots, very little attention is
required.

Foremost among the climbing
annuals must be mentioned the
ever-popular Sweet Pea, but when
grown with the idea of forming a
screen it is advisable to select
those varieties known to be strong
growers and to avoid particularly
those of salmon shades, such as
Henry Eckf^rd, that are not ol
robust habit.

.•ythough not usually grown as
an ornamental subject, the Scarlet
Rimner Bean forms one of the most
effective annual screens that can
be desired. The beautiful orange
scarlet flowers are by no means
appreciated as they should be, and
here it might be mentioned that
the colour of the Scarlet Runner
flower was long sought after by
raisers of new Sweet Peas.

The Morning Glory (Convolvulus
major) is another easily-grinvn
subject that commands admiration,
especially when the flowers are
seen at their best. Its uses as a
climbing annual are manifold, and
in the accompanying illustration
it is shown clothing what would
otherwise have been a bare and by
no means beautiful lamp-post.
For such a purpose there is nothing
to excel the Morning Glory, as it
is a rapid grower and attains .i
considerable height, while it readily
entwines itself around strings ar-
ranged from the ground to the top
of the lamp-post. The Morning
Glory, however, is none too hardy,
and seeds should not be sown
before April.

One of the most popular of
climbing annuals is undoubtedly
the Canary Creeper (Tropaiolum
canariensis). This, again, is none too hardy,
and the most satisfactory way of growing it is to
sow the seeds in frames in April, afterwards trans-
planting the seedlings to their flowering quarters.
Its hardier relative, the common Nasturtium in
climbing form (Tropaeolum majus), is everyone's
plant so far as cultivation goes. It should, how-
ever, be grown in a poor soil in preference to a
rich one. If the soil is heavily manured, the plants
will grow apace and make an overabundance of
growth and green foliage ; but one may look in
vain for the flowers. Indeed, most annuals give
better results on a poor or moderate soil, the Sweet
Pea being a notable exception

climber used for clothing dwarf trees or shrubs
that may have died from some cause or another.
By utilising a climber in this way, bare gaps in the

have come very much to the fore in recent years,
and are specially suited for growing singly up stout
Larch poles.

A very simple arrangement for growing climbing

annuals is to fix three stakes in the ground in the

form of a triangle, securely binding them together

at the top to form a tripod. Such climbers as

Convolvulus and Canary Creeper

look very pleasing when grown in

this way.

rV L.V.Ml'-rOST CLOTHED WITH .\NNU.\L CONVOLVULUSES BY A
CARRIAGE DRIVE.

shrubbery may be avoided. Cob;ea scandens and
its, variegated form are most often met with as
greenhouse or conservatory roof climbers, and
when grown under congenial conditions the plants
are of perennial duration

COLUMBINES FOR

SHADY BORDERS.

.Amateurs are often unable to
satisfactorily 611 shady borders
with flowering plants. The above-
named plants are very suitable, as
both the foliage and flowers come
so fresh when developed in light
shade. Furthermore, the plants
are splendid for growing in damp
borders, providing the soil is well
drained. By damp borders I
mean those that are low-lying,
and in which moisture collects
regularly in consequence. The
ordinary .\quilegias, or Columbincf
as they are often called, cast
their seeds, and the result.ant
seedlings spring up and thrive
amazingly ; but the rarer varieties
require much more careful treat-
ment. Instead of putting out the
young seedlings in their flowering
quarters among strongly-growing
herbaceous subjects, they should
be first transplanted in a nursery
bed. First put down a layer of
well-rotted manure 2 inches deep,
then one of gritty soil 4 inches
deep. In this bed put out the
young plants d inches apart each
way.

Early in the spring the
young plants must be trans-
ferred to their permanent posi-
tions, the soil of which should
be deeply dug and well enriched
with road grit, leaf -soil and
rotted manure if it be of rather
poor quality. Plants so treated
will make good specimens by
the summer and bear some flowers.
If overcrowded in a herbaceous
border while they are small, they rarely make
good flowering plants the same year. By
placing the rotted manure under the soil in the
nursery bed the cultivator is enabled to lift the
plants with nice balls of soil attached to the roots.

Eccremocarpus scaber is another very useful ' «o that the plants do not feel any check and
climber. It is particularly suitable for arches ; continue to grow steadily. The flowering season
and pUlars, where its orange flowers are seen to
perfection.

Neither must we omit to mention the Japanese
Hop (Humulus japonicus variegatus), which should
be sown without delay for the coming season's
display. Finally, we mention the ornamental
Gourds, in diverse and fantastic types. These

IS from June to the end of August. Aquilegia
califomica, scarlet ; A. cjerulea, violet and blue ;
A. c. albiflora, white ; A. chrysantha, golden
yellow ; A. chrysantha, double ; A. Stuartii,
blue with white cap ; A. glandulosa, blue with
white corolla ; and the many long-spurred hybrids
are all very charming varieties. G. G.

162

THE GARDEN.

[March 29, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Pleasure Grounds.

Mowing. — This will now become a weekly or
bi-weekly operation, according to the weather and
strength of the grass ; and if a good, firm, green
lawn is desired, it is advisable to keep the mowing
well in hand. If left for too long a time, the grass
has to be gone over twice, and if the growth is thick,
the bottom soon turns pale in colour, and is very
ea?ily injured by the frosts that we are still likely
to get.

Feeding. — Where the growth of the grass is
weak, a dressing of some approved grass manure
should be applied during the next few weeks,
preferably during showery weather, or, failing
rain, it may have to be washed in with the hose.

Worms. — Although these are credited with
being beneficial for the drainage and feeding of a
lawn, the casts thrown up during mild, showery
weather are anything but pleasant to see. A
special efiort should be made to rid tennis and
croquet lawns of worms, and by far the best means
of doing this is to use Carter's Worm Destroyer.
This, evenly distributed and well washed in, will
thoroughly dear a lawn of worms for a year, and
in some cases even longer.

The Rose Garden.
Pruning. — Now that the month is drawing to
a close, it will be well to complete all the Rose-
pruning. After finishing the Hybrid Perpetuals,
all the Hybrid Teas may be done.

Plants Under Glass.

Chrysanthemums. — The early-rooted Japanese
varieties will shortly be ready for potting on into
6-inch pots, and this should be done, before the
roots become too densely matted, in 4-inch or
44-inch pots, or the plants will sustain a check.
January and February rooted plants may not
require a shift just now, but any lack of attention
as to watering and potting will eventually show
itself in the plants, either in loss of foliage or
premature hardening of the stems.

Cuttings for growing on as single-stemmed
plants may be rooted now, and these, if well looked
after, make excellent plants for grouping either in
the conservatory or at exhibitions.

Fuchsias. — Old plants that have been pruned
and placed in gentle warmth wUl now have made
sufiicient growth to warrant their being partially
shaken out, or the old ball reduced and repotted
into the same-sired pots. Young plants that are
being grown on as specimens must be given a slight
shift as often as they require it, using a fairly rich
and light compost. These plants like a moderately
warm, moist atmosphere while making their
growth, and, according to the shape the plants
are required, so they must be pinched. Pyramids
are perhaps the most useful, though standards
of some varieties are exceptionally pleasing in
certain positions in the conservatory.

Pandanus Veitchii is one of the occupants of
the stove which are much admired and very easily
grown. The old plants are now throwing small
suckers from the base, and if these are removed,
inserted smgly in small pots and placed in the
propagating-frame, they will soon make roots.
To maintain good variegation in the foliage, a very
light and porous compost should be used, potting
very firmly when placed in 4j4nch pots.

The Kitchen Garden.

Vegetables in Frames. — Peas, Broad Beans,
Cauliflowers and any other vegetables raised under
glass for planting out should now be given ali the
air possible to harden them oft preparatory to
planting, and though this may not be permissible
for a week or two yet, the hardier they are the
better wUl they grow away when placed in the open.

Herbs. — The herb border should now be gone
over, digging up and replanting anything that
requires it, splitting up such plants as Thyme,
Chives and Tarragon, while small sowings may
be made of Borage and Chervil.

Mint. — ^To keep up a supply of Mint till well
into the autumn, I prefer to make a small planta-
tion each spring, pulling up the young shoots
with a piece of root attached and dibblmg them in a
piece of fresh ground in rows i foot apart and 4 inches
between the plants or cuttings. By about July

such a bed will have made sufficient growth to
warrant the old bed being dug up. For an early
supply for forcing next season, such shoots, pricked
off in boxes 3 inches apart and grown on all the
summer, give a much better return than lifting
the roots and placing in a frame, as a box may
be placed indoors every week or ten days, according
to the quantity required.

Fruits Under Glass.

Vines. — Too heavy disbudding of young shoots
should be avoided, as occasionally there are losses
when the shoots are being tied down, and it is easy
to remove a shoot or two when it is found that the
desired number are quite safe. Alicantcs and
one or two other very strong growers are the worst
sufferers in this respect, and need very careful tying.

Stopping the Shoots. — Generally speaking, the
shoots should be stopped two leaves beyond the
bunch ; but where there is ample room between
the rods, this rule need not be rigidly adhered to.
In fact, where the Vines are none too strong and
the foliage small, I believe it is an advantage to
extend them an extra joint or two. All lateral
growths should be rubbed out to the bunch, pinching
those beyond the leaf at the first or second joint,
according to the space at command. Overcrowding
of the foliage shovild be avoided, as one well-
developed leaf is better than two or three anaemic-
looking leaves that are partially stifled for want
of light and air.

Melons. — Plants that have set their fruit should
be top-dressed with good loam and a little manure,
which, as soon as filled with roots, may have the
help of a weekly dressing of a good artificial
manvure. The present is a good date for sowing a
batch of Melons for cultivating in frames. Although
most varieties will do well in frames with good
treatment, the smaller varieties, such as Hero of
Lockinge and Blenheim Orange, are, I think,
the most suitable. Cantaloupe Melons may also
be sown, and such plants would be ready for
placing in the warm frames at about the time
the bedding plants are being removed to the cold
frames for hardening off.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, AdUlesto)te, Surrey'.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Bedding Geraniums. — Although not so popular
as they once were, these showy bedders have
still many admirers, especially that glowing scarlet
variety Paul Crampel. The plants should now be
transferred to cold frames to be gradually hardened
off. Keep rather close and dry for the first ten days,
and then inure them to the air by degrees, accord-
ing to the weather.

Calceolarias. — If frame room is scarce, these
may be run out in trenches similar to Celery
trenches. Lay a few rods across the trenches to
support mats in the event of frost occurring.

Half-Hardy Annuals. — As soon as these show
the first pair of rough leaves, they should be pricked
off into boxes filled with equal parts of loam and
leaf-mould with a little sand in it. When sifting
this compost, place the rough part in the bottom
of the boxes to encourage root action.

Hardy Annuals. — These may be sown within
the next fortnight. Such things as Nigellas,
Poppies, Candytufts and Eschscholtzias may be
sown where they are to bloom ; but with many
of the finer varieties it is worth while to sow them
in cold frames or under improvised protection
formed of rough boards and sheets of glass in some
sheltered, simny nook. This precaution is chiefly
taken to protect the tiny seedlings from slugs and
snails.

Herbaceous Plants. — All bulbous plants will
now be pushing, and the work of forking over the
beds and borders may be proceeded with. If
previous hints were acted upon, all top-dressing
will have been attended to ; this, 1 owever, is a
good time to give dressings of soot or ground lime.
Any necessary planting or reduction of the plants
should now have attention. In carrymg out the
lattei operation, retain a portion near the outside
of the clump, where it will be observed the pushing
growths are stronger than in the centre.

The Rose Garden.

Pruning Teas. — With the later additions
to the Hybrid Teas the difference between them
and the Teas is almost indistinguishable, whether
as regards colour, form, or constitution. Taking
the Teas as a class, however, they should be pruned
harder than either the Hybrid Perpetuals or the
Hybrid Teas ; but in carrying out the work of
pruning the same general principle as that laid
down here a fortnight ago must be observed,
viz., the weaker the variety, the more closely should
it be pruned. Except in very cold localities, the
work of pruning may now be proceeded with.

Plants Under Glass.

Zonal Pelargoniums.— The cuttings inserted
a few weeks ago to furnish plants for late autumn
flowering will now be ready for potting up into
34-inch pots. Use a compost of two parts loam
to one part good leaf-mould, with a little sand.
Keep the plants in an intermediate temperature
for another week or two.

Tuberous Begonias. — Tubers started a month
ago should now be ready f Dr potting off. The size of
the pot must be determined by the size of the tuber,
but do not give too much room at first. Equal
parts of fibrous loam and half-decayed Beech leaves
passed through a three-quarter-inch mesh sieve,
plus a little sand and pounded charcoal, will suit
them at this stage. Barely cover the tubers
and pot lightly. Shade from bright sunshine and
do not coddle.

Fruits Under Glass.

Thinning Grapes. — This delicate and impor-
tant operation should be carried out with great
care, more especially if there is any thought of
exhibiting. The Muscat varieties and those of
the Hamburgh type require somewhat different
treatment, although certain general principles
apply to both. These principles are as follows :
Never reduce the circumference of the bunch :
maintain its symmetry as far as possible, aim at
leaving the berries a uniform distance apart,
and cut out the small berries as far as is con-
sistent with this. Muscats, having stiffer and
shorter footstalks, must be more severely thinned
than Hamburghs.

Strawberries. — As the fruits begin to ripen,
give them the benefit of all the available sunshine,
also a little air on all favourable occasions.
Continue to give mild stimulants to plants whose
fruits are swelling.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Protection from Frost. — As fruit trees on walls
come into flower, a close watch should be kept,
and they must be protected from frost by means
of netting. It is wonderful what an amount of
protection is afforded even by a single net, and a
double net will ward off all but an abnormally
sharp snap of spring frost.

Raspberries. — As soon as the young growths
are 6 inches high, all surplus ones should be cut
out, as they only tend to rob the others of their
due share of light and nutriment. Six canes is
the maximum number that should be allowed to
a stool.

The Vegetable Garden.

Vegetable Marrows. — Seeds of this useful
vegetable should now be sown in a little heat in
4-inch pots, one seed to a pot. Moore's Cream
and Long White are two excellent varieties, the
latter being a heavy cropper.

Cauliflower. — Autunm-sown plants may now
be planted out on a south border in well-prepared
and highly-enriched soil. Lift carefully and plant
with a trowel. Place a ring of soot round each
plant to ward off the attacks of slugs. Plants
resiflting from an early sowing under glass should
be pricked out rmder frames or hand-lights and
gradually hardened off.

Staking and Sowing Peas.— The early sowings
will now be ready for staking. Draw a little earth
up to them first, and see that twiggy branches
are supplied near the ground for the plants to cling
to right away. Make another sowing.

Broccoli should now be sown after the seeds
have been coated with red lead. For the autumn
supply Veitch's Self-protecting is very good ;
for winter. Snow's Winter and Purple Sprouting
are both good in their way ; and for spring I can
recommend Flower of Spring and June Monarch.
Charles Comfort.
Broom/ield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

March 29, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

163

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

Primula Purdomii. — A remarkable new species
from Foochow, West Kansu, and probably the
most distinct of a genus rich in good things. The
4-inch to 6-inch long lanceolate leaves with the
stems and calyces arc covered with a white farina.
The pale lilac, yellow-eyed flowers are borne in um-
bels on 8-inch-high peduncles, the umbels six to twelve
flowered. Tlie flowers are delightfully fragrant. The
new-comer is said to be quite hardy. From Messrs.
James Veitch and Sons, Limited,
Chelsea. First-class certificate.

Omphalodes Cappadocia. — .\

lovely Mue, wliHe-t-ycd species of
distinct habit and free growth.
The flowers are profusely borne
on 8-inch-high stems. The leaves are
ovate-acuniiiiatc, deeply nerved.
I J inches long and i inch broad.
A pretty plant for the rock garden
or alpine-house. From Mr. M,
Prichard, Christchurch, Hants,
Award of merit. Both were shown
before the Royal Horticultural
Society on the i8th inft.

DAFFODIL NOTES.

DalTodils in Pots. — I joined Mr, Waiter Ware
and Mr, Christopher Bourne while they were
enjoying a good supper at " The Windsor " the
other night. The subject of growing choice varie-
ties in pots was touched upon. You should have
heard them talk, I am not going to repeat all
they said, and I do not want anyone to write to

such busy men to ask them. Well, they were

most enthusiastic, and I do not think they ate j Wilson staged was an excellent one.

Robert Sydenham's and Mr, C. Bourne's, every
group had its own seedlings, to be a bit Irish,
Messrs, R, H, Bath, Messrs, Cartwright and
Goodwin, Mr, F. Herbert Chapman and Mr. Watts,
to say nothing of Messrs. Barr and Sons and Mr.
Wilson, displayed samples of their hybrids. This,
again, is but typical of what is to my certain know-
ledge going on in several amateurs' gardens. It
is food for reflection for both dealers and buyers,
for it must influence prices. I think everyone
was agreed that the collection which Mr. A. M.

He had

CHARRING TIMBER FOR
PROTECTION.

Of the numerous expedients for
preventing decay in fencing tnnber,
charring is perhaps the simplest.
Rather an old-fashioned remedy,
its use is dying out, and creosote
finds more favour in modern fenc-
ing. There is more in charring,
however, than may appear at first
sight, and it is not done merely as
a surface protection against wind
and weather. It is, in fact, a very
useful form of preservative, as the
burning process not only forms an
outer covering to the timber which
is fairly good proof against insects
and fungi, but it acts as a protec-
tion to the inner layers of the wood
in a manner not perhaps always
realised. The charcoal is itself
almost indestructible after the post
has been buried, but the protection
of the deeper layers of timber is
due to their being saturated by a
layer of resins, tannin and similar
material, which the heat from the
tire drives inwards, and, to make
this effective, about half an inch of
charcoal should be formed.

.A tendency to crack is, no
doubt, one of the disadvantages of
charring, but if the wood is
thoroughly burnt and not merely
surface scorched, there is much
less danger of this occurring. In any case,
tarring in addition is advisable, as it more
effectually seals up the wood from the entrance
of water and air, and this is the one thing needful.
There is, of course, some damage done to the wood,
and a proportionate amount of weakness, but far
less than occurs naturally at the point where
charring is required — a little above and below the
ground-level. Cracks in the timber should be
speciilly aviided in this form of preserving timber as
comoarcti with creosote or similar fungicides, G,T,

samples of that fine all-red cupped
Poetaz Rubellite and the almost
equally bright ijicomparabilis
Robespierre, He had beautiful
yellow trumpets and no less taking
giant Leedsiis and giant " incom-
parables," One which was num-
bered 170 was a great spidery-
looking thing with a cup of a
striking red orange so large that one
almost imagined one's self among
the Dutch cheese in the market-
place at .Alkmaar, Others of this
type were Cedric, a rather pale
yellow, with that curious withered
look in the perianth which always
suggests a chill ; and the Hon,
J, R, Seddon (4 J inches by
I J inches by ij inches), a- more
pointed flower, with a primrose
perianth and a deep yellow cup.
I have seen photographs of many
.\ustralian and New Zealand
flowers, but this is the first lime

1 have seen it (to know it) m the
flesh. I heartily congratulate Mr.
J. Biggs uf Christchurch, New
Zealand, on being the raiser of a
variety that can well hold its own
among Mr, Wilson's gems. A
bloom which very much appealed
to me was Buckram, a flat, show
flower with the palest of primrose
perianths and a pale lemon yellow
cup with a band of soft red. Size,
3j inches diameter of perianth,
three-quarters of an inch diameter
of the eye. Two varieties of a
moderate price which I feel I
must mention are Diogenes, a fine
pale bicolor Ajax, and Fleetwing,
a bicolor incomparabilis. Messrs.
Barr and Sons were deservediv
awarded a silver-gilt Flora medal.
They had at least 100 different
seedlings — of course, of varying
grades of goodness — a gentle re-
minder that the " old original " is
not worked out yet. There was
the immense yellow trumpet
Ajax Atlas (5 inches by

2 inches by ij inches) bearing all
as much as they otherwise would have done. 1 these kinds on its shoulders as it were, with a
You can draw your conclusions. I know what \ leaf almost broad enough (ij inches) to make a
they will be. I will supplement them by saying I boat to take them down the Thames. As nearly
pot early — pot very early — if you wish for the 1 all were only under numbers, it is impossible to
maximum of size and beauty in your flowers I describe them. Battle Axe, a giant red-cupped
and the maximum of enjoyment for yourselves. ! Nelsoni-looking flower, took my eye for one,

March 18 at Vincent Square. — It is proverbially ! and so did Sycorax, a Dutch cyclamineus seedling
difficult to foretell events, but the advent of seed- which has a good constitution and is a rapid in-

NARCISSUS SYCORA.K, A NEW
RICH YELLOW COLOUR.

CYCLAMINEUS SEEDLING OF
{Two-thirds natural size.)

ling Daffodils in increasing numbers every year
makes one wonder what will happen in the not
very distant future. With the exception of

creaser. It is very early and has the well-known
reflexed perianth of its parent. It is, however,
considerably larger in all its proportions. I fancy

/

\CA

THE GAltDEN.

[March 2g, iqi3.

it will make an ideal plant for the rockery or for
pots. Blazing Star belongs to the garden or
decorative type. It is j ioosely-built yellow
incomparabilis with a decided red edge to the
cup. I have not grown it myself, but I am assured
It does not burn. An out of the common but
charming little flower, the result of crossing cala-
thinus with minimus, was to be seen in Little
Queen. The small trumpet is ivory white and
the perianth pale lemon. I think such little
things, if they prove to be good doers, wUl have
a real use in these days of the rockery mania
beyond their mere botanical interest. More
comments on flowers I must reserve till next week.
Clip for Names at Shows. — A certain Mr. W. F.
Mitrhill of the Midland Daffodil Society one day
lately had a happy inspiration and promptly sat
down and thought out a simple contrivance for
attaching the names of the flowers to the vases
in which they are shown on the exhibition stand.
He thereupon made a sample, and then took the
very wise step of showing it to the governing
director of Robert Sydenham, Limited, who in
turn brought it to London for expert opinion,
which I am sure was more than favourable. The
upshot is that it is now being made as quickly as
possible, and I hope to see it before the season is

A NEW CLIP FOR HOLDING A NAME CARD.

over figuring at some of our shows. The illus-
tration fully explains the principle of the con-
trivance, which is simplicity itself — nothing, in
fact, but a small steel spring which clasps the
vase, and a properly-adjusted holder for displaying
the name card. Everyone will say when they see
it, " Why did no one ever think of it before ! " I do
not thmk it will stop short with us Daffodil people.

A Daffodil Year Book.— The Royal Horticul-
tural Society's Narcissus committee, at its meeting
on the i8th inst., approved certain recommenda-
tions with respect to the publication of a year
book. I hope that this widely-wanted annual
wDl make its bow to the public before the summer
is over I have undertaken to make a list of
varieties which have received awards during the
present season from all societies other than the
Royal Horticultural Society. Lists of such from
secretaries, especially Colonial ones in Australia and
New Zealand, would be very gratefully received.

A Step in the Right Direction.— A small sub-
committee has been appointed to try to devise a
workable scheme whereby the scope of its awards
could be enlarged. The committee has got deeply
into the florist rut, and it is going to try to get
out of it. Joseph Jacob.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— YVic lidilor intends tu
make THE G.\KDEN helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object ivill make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearlij and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the EDITOR of THE Gaeden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher,

THE GREENHOUSE.

POLYANTHUS NARCISSUS (.4. B.).—On no account
should the Narcissus be ciiveu any stimulant as the flowers
are developing, as the blooms in embryo are contained
within the bulb, and the natural nutriment derived from
the soil and water is all that is needed. Too moist an
atmosphere would also cause some of the buds to go rotten.

ARUM LILIES FAILING (^rum).— We resret that it
is quite impossible for us to state the reasons of tho com-
parative failure of your Arum Lilies, It may be caused by
attacks of aphides, or green fly, as the spathes are develop-
ing, or by their being allowed to get too dry at times.
Furthermore, the feeding seems to have been on a very
liberal scale ; indeed, it may have been sufficient to injure
the roots. We sliould certainly advise the giving of a
less amount of stimulants, as too much is apt to set up
an unliealthy condition of the plants, which affects, first
of all, the flowers.

PERPETUAL CARNATIONS (T. H. H.).~The change
from a clear atmosphere to a smoky district would be
very detrimental to the American Tree Carnations, as also
would the knocking them out of their pots and sending
them a distance in the month of October. The tempera-
ture stated is correct, but if the house was kept in any way
close and damp, it would be very detrimental to the
Carnations, as they need a light and buoyant atmosphere.
We fear nothing can now be done to restore the plants
to health, and should suggest obtaining some young
growing plants in small pots at the present time and shifting
them into larger ones when necessary. The plants would
then have ample time to become acclimatised to their sur-
roundings during the spring and summer months.

PELARGONIUM LEAVES {N. C. i.).— Your Ivy-
leaved Geraniums are attacked by a trouble very common
among this class of plants. Various suggestions have
been put forward as to its cause, but the most generally
accepted idea is that it is set up by too liberal feeding.
It may not be that your particular plants have had an
excess of stimulants, as the taint in the blood may be
inherited for generations, just as the human race often
suffers for the excesses of its forefathers. At all events,
potting or planting into some good sweet soil in which
manure enters but little, if at all, will often suflSce to
restore them to health. Some varieties are more prone
to this disease than others. In some instances a form of
fungus occurs on the blotches, and for this spray the plants
with a solution of permanganate of potash, prepared by
dissolving the crystals in water. The solution should
be made of such a strength that it is of a pale rose colour.

FRUIT GARDEN.

WASH FOR FRUIT TREES (F. N. H.).— It is almost
useless trying to destroy mildew by winter spraying ;
but there is nothing better for stimmer use than potassium
sulphide, at the rate of loz. to three gallons of water.
Flowers of sulphur, dusted on while the plants are moist
with dew, is also an effective preventive. Apple trees
affected by mildew should have the affected shoots cut
away and burned.

STRAWBERRIES IN BARRELS (Brandville).— It is
now too late to make a good start to grow Strawberries
in barrels for this year. The earliest runners sbould be
obtained and planted in the barrels as soon as they are
rooted in small pots. This should not be later tlian the
first week in August. If you would like to try to produce
a crop in this way this year, the only way to do so with a
fair prospect of success is by purchasing strong, well-
rooted young plants in pots and planting at once. An
eightecn-gallon barrel is a good size to use. Holes should be
bored 1 ^ inches in diameter at 8 inches apart, the top row of
holes tobe 6 inches below the top of the tub. The next row
should be 7 inches below the first row, and so on to the
bottom of the barrel. The bottom row should be at leat^t
t> Inches from the bottom. The barrel must have five holes
bored in the bottom (1 inch diameter) to admit of drainage.
Place broken potsherds over these holes to the depth
of 2 inches, and then add over these thin turves, one layer
only, with the grass side downwards, ramming tiglitiy down
over the drainage. On these turves place as much soil

(say, 1 inch or so in depth) as will bring it to the leve^
of the first (bottom) holes, planting the bottom row-
Turfy, loamy i^oil of ratlier a heavy texture is the best.
Break the turves into lumps the size of a hen's egg. using
the small soil also. To a barrow-load of this loam add
half a bushel of well-rotted farmyard manure, one peck
of old mortar rubble, and half a gallon of bone-meal,
mixing the whole well together. The soil should be mode-
rately dry whr^n planting takes place.

PRUNING KENTISH COB NUT TREES {J. P.).— The
K'liti^h I (ill Nut tree is much benefited by hard pruning.
Tl IS con^isi,^ of cutting back the young shoots of last
year's growth by one-third their length. This induces ■
the formation of fruit-spurs lower down the shoots. These
shoots should always be cut to a bud underneath the
branch, as in this way it encourages side or lateral growth
in the trees and prevents the branches getting too high at
any time. Dead and decayed wood must be cut away,
also any suckers which may form, in order that plenty
of light and air may penetrate and circulate among the
branches.

PEACH, TREES CASTING THEIR FLOWER-BUDS
(E. H.). — In nine cases out of ten the cau^^e of bud-
dropping in Peach trees is the want of sufficient water
at the roots during the autumn and winter. It is no use
watering after the mischief is done and when the buds
are dropping. Take a lesson from the Peach grown on
walls out of doors. Buds seldom or ever drop on sucti
trees. See how well soaked they arc with all the autumn
and winter rains. Try thorough watering with weak
liquid manure every other time next autumn and winter.
Bo not excite the trees into premature growth by keeping
the house too warm at any time. Learn again from the
trees out of doors, how dormant they remain until
Nature forces them into gro^vth.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

TO GROW MUSHROOMS WITHOUT HORSE-MANURE

(M. i^.).— Many materials have been tried over and over
again, such as moss litter and freshly-fallen leaves, but
without any success, and we would not advise you to
begin with anything else than fresh stable manure, and
that from corn-fed horses if possible.

VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION IN JULY (New
Reader). — To be certain it will be safer to make at least
two small sowings. As regards Cauliflowers, it depends
whether you are going in for large varieties or smaller
ones. If large ones, you should sow at once under glass
in a cold frame, and again the first week in March. For
smaller ones a fortniglit later will do in a warm corner
out of doors. Make one small sowing of Peas at the end
of March, another the first week in April, and another a
week later. It depends so much on the weather. For
Cos Lettuce you must allow from ten to twelve weeks
from the time of sowing. For Cabbage Lettuce a
fortnight less will suffice.

MISCELLANEOUS.

TREE STUMP AND RAMBLER ROSES {M. G. /.).—
We think it would be unwise to attempt to kill the stump
of the tree with salt now, for Roses are very intolerant
of salt in the soil.

COLLEGES FOR LADY GARDENERS (A Reader).—
The Swanley Horticultural College, Swanley. Kent, and
the Lady Warwick Hostel, Studley Castle, Warwickshire,
both teach ladies the art of gardening. If you write to
the Principal of either, you will obtain full information
concerning them.

TREATMENT OF VARIOUS NEW ZEALAND PLANTS
{New Zealand). — Cordyline australis may be grown in a
greenhouse or dwelling-room from wliich frost is excluded,
and in the milder parts of the country, such as Devonshire
and Cornwall, it thrives quite well in the open ground.
It may be grown in a compost of two parts fibrous loam
and one part peat, with a little well-rotted manure and
sand. Give plenty of water at all times, keep the leaves
well washed, and when the pot is filled with roots give
manure-water once or twice a week. When planted out
of doors it grows 12 feet or 15 feet high, and forms a stout
trunk surmounted with several branches bearing large
heads of leaves. Phormium tenax requires the same
temperature, but is always seen at its best when planted
out in the vicinity of water, say, about the margins of a
lake or stream. It then grows into very large clumps
and forms leaves 6 feet to 8 feet long. You cau cultivate
it in pots or large pans in similar soil to that recommended
for the Cordyline, but you must give it plenty of water at
all times, more particularly during the summer. Sopliora
tetraptera can be grown "in a cool house likewise, but
it never does so well in pots as when planted against a
wall in the milder counties. It then flowers magnificently,
but flowers are rarely produced by pot-grown plants.
Similar soil to that recommended for the otlier plants
will answer, except that leaf-mould may be substituted
for manure. It will not require so much water as the
other two, especially during the winter.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— JWra. iJnyfn/)ori.— Cistus albidua
and Nephrolepis exaltata. — —S. P. Rowlands. — 1, Prunua
Laurocerasus (common Laurel) ; 2, Berbeils Aquifolium; 3,
Prunus lusitanica (Portugal Laurel) ; 4, Ligustrum vulgare

(common Privet); 5, Sequoia gigantea. M. O. F. —

Probably Prunus Mume ; specimen tuo scrappy to identify.

0. Dean. — Rumex Acctosella (Sheep Sorrel). <?, E.

Bletchley. — The common Privet (Ligustrum vulgare).

NAMES OF FRUITS. — F. Crockdt, — 1, Smart's Prince
Arthur; 2, Nelson's Codlin.

GARDEN. I

^'^^^^^

-50"=^'

No. 2159.— Vol. LXXVU.

April 5, 1913.

CONTENTS.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Notes of thk Wkkk IB.')

CORRESPONDKNCK

Mr. Lester Morse rm

Sweet Peas.. .. 16«
The fifty best

alpiiies. . .... 106

Reliable Lilies fur

tlio garden . . . . 107
I'lie ad van ee in

yellow Hoses . . 167
Phizes for the Best

KOOK OARDESS .. 16"

Forthcoming events.. 167

Science in Uelatios to
horticditure
Sterilisation of soils 167

llOCK AND WATKR OAKDEN

Some uneo m mon
alpines 168

A free-flowering Gen-
tian 168

Flower Garden

Daffodils at Vincent
Square 169

frimula Purdomii.. 170

Beautiful border
flowers 170

Fl-OWKR fiARDEN

Six annuals that
might be more
grown 170

Tulipa clusiana

171

Sweet Pea notes ..

171

Kitchen Garden

Potatoes that resist

wart disease

17U

Globe .\rticljokes . .

17a

Rose Garden

The pruninj! of Roses

172

Gardening of the Week

For Southern gar-

dens - . . . .

174

For Northern gar-

dens

174

Seasonable Notes on

Carnations .. ..

173

Notes on Auriculas . .

173

Answers to C o r r e '

SPONDE NTS

Flower garden

175

Rose garden . .

176

Greenhouse . . , .

IVtt

Fruit garden . .

176

Miscellaneous

176

ILiLiUSTRATIONS.

The deciduous Cypress m Northern Florida .. .. 166

A little-known Gentian from Asia Minor 168

A magnifloent bloom of Daffodil The Doctor .. .. 169

Primula Purdomii .. .. 170

A flue colony of " The Lady Tulip •■ 171

A Hybrid Tea Rose before pruning 172

The same Hybrid Tea Rose after pruning 172

Tea Rose before pruning 17o

The same Tea Rose after pruning 173

EDITORIAL NOTIOBS.

Every description of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
InU he mil not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photograplts, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
graoher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be takeri as evidence that, an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden loill alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Oficet : 20, Tarislock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

I A Good Green Paint. — In response to requests
I from se\ era] readers, we repeat the recipe for a really

good green paint which first appeared in our pages
I in iqro. This is a mixture of paints " ground in
■ oil" of one part hi act;, two parts light chrome,
I and four parts white lead, suitably thinned in the

usual w<iy. Most of the so-called green paints

used for stakes and tubs refuse to harmonise with

green foliage and stems.

Manuring Strawberry-Beds.— During the next

week or two it will be advisable to give the Straw-
berry-bed a rather hea\ y dressing of long, strawy
manure. This will answer a dual purpose. A
certain amount of nutriment will be washed from
it down into the soil, and by the time the fruit is
ripening, the straw will be perfectly sweet and
clean, and act as a good protection against the
splashing of the fruits by rain. Previous to put-
ting on the manure we like to very lightly fork
into the soil some soot and lime, about a good
handful of each to a square yard.
A Beautiful Rock Garden Viola.— in Viola

florairensis we have a delightful little hybrid
Viola, raised by M. Correvon in his alpine garden,
and one of the mijst useful rock garden plants.
It is only 2 inches or 3 inches high, and bears for
a long time in succession delightful little blue
flowers. It has already acquired considerable
favour, and should be remembered by those who
are fond of these dainty hybrid Violas in their
rock gardens. That it is a welcome plant in the
famous garden of Sir Frank Crisp is a sufficient
passport to secure the admission of this Swiss
hybrid tn many of our best rock gardens.

Limes at Brockley Coombe.— In the beautiful
woods at Brockley Coombe, Somerset, may be seen
some of the finest Lime trees in the country. .-^
little way off the public road that runs through
the coombe stand a line of eight veteran trees,
the remains of what was probably a much longer
avenue. The trees are of magnificent proportions,
with low-spreading branches almost from the
base. Some of the side branches alone are t2 feet
to r4 feet in girth. That the trees are of great
age there can be no doubt. They are said to be
over four hundred years, while the common Poly-
pody growing on the branches adds an additional
charm to the picturesque appearance of these
noble trees.

Official Guide to Kew Gardens. — The Board of

.\griculture and I'lsheries have appointed an
official guide to conduct parties of visitors round
the collections in the gardens, plant-houses and
museums. Two tours will be made daily, Sundays.
Good Friday. Christmas Day and Bank Holidays
excepted. .\ njminai scale of charges has been
authorised, and means will be taken to prevent
unauthorised persons attaching themselves to the
party. These tours, of which full particulars
can be obtained by applying to the Director, the

Royal Gardens, Kew, commenced on April i. and
should be much appreciated by those who wish
to gain an intimate knowledge of the many inter-
esting features to be found in the gardens.

A Yellow-Flowered, Fragrant Annual. Har-
tonia aurcu is a showy hardy annual with large
golden yellow flowers an inch or so across, which
arc fully expanded in the evening, when they are
very fragrant. It will thrive in the open border
or in partial shade, and to produce a display during
the summer months, seed should be sown in April.
This annual does not like transplanting, neither
ought the seedlings to be crowded. When large
enough it is advisable to thin them to a distance
of 4 inches. The plant grows about eighteen
inches high.

"Setting " Tomato Blooms. — It is well known «

that bees never visit the flowers of the Tomato,
and in order to secure a good yield of fruits it is
necessary to adopt some artificial means of polli-
nating the blooms. This is usually accomplished
by tapping the stakes or wires to which the plants
are tied, or by pollinating the flowers with a hare's
tail. .A. much better way of performing this work
is by syringing the plants with clear water about
noon, when the flowers are open. The different
methods have been tried both with Tomatoes
under glass and in the open, and the use of the
syringe has given the best resiuts.
Pruning Forsythia suspensa. — .Although it

is not necessary under all conditions to prune
this plant regularly, when it is planted against a
wall or trellis, or when it is grown as a bed in the
open ground, an annual pruning is essential, and
n )w, or as soon as the flowers are over, is the time
to do the work. Cut all secondary branches back
to within one or two eyes of the base and remove
very weak shoots altogether, for it is better to
obtain a comparatively small number of long,
vigorous shoots than a larger number of weaker
growths. As soon as the pruning is done, fork
the ground lightly over about the roots and apply
a generous dressing of well-rotted farmyard manure,
for to keep the plants in good health it is necessary
to keep the surface soil rich.
Alleged Poisoning by Ferns.— At a recent

meeting of the scientific committee of the Royal
Horticultural Society, Miss S. Edmonds sent an
account of the death of two cats, supposed to have
been caused by eating the fronds of Ferns in a
dwelling-house. One had died and a second,
which later betrayed the same symptoms, which
were those of an irritant poison, was killed, as
recovery was deemed impossible. The first was
not examined, but the second was, and pieces of
a Fern frond were found in the stomach. The
Fern was sent for examination, and proved to be
Nephrolepis exaltata todeaoides. No record of
this Fern or any of its congeners being poisonous
was known to any member of the committee, but the
committee would be glad to leam whether animals
having access to it have been known to be poisoned,

166

THE GARDEN.

[April 5, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

The Shaggy Pasque-Flower. — Owing to a
misunderstanding, the illustration of this Pasque-
flower (Anemone vernalis) on page ijO of last
week's issue was stated to represent a group grow-
ing in Mr. Malby's garden at South Woodford.
The photograph was taken by Mr. Malby last
July in the Valois at an altitude of 8.500 feet.

The Raising o( Seedling Narcissi. — For some
years past Narcissus Princess Mary has been
recommended to those who are engaged in hybridis-
ing the Daffodil as an excellent seeder
and parent of fine progeny. I have
for years raised numbers of seedlings
from it, and many charming varieties
may be picked out of them. But
Princess Mary seedlings are mostly on
the srhall side, and among the multi-
tudinous things that . are now being
produced on all sides, size is becom-
ing an important consideration. I wonder
if any of your readers know of a large
incomparabilis which will throw seed-
lings of anything like the beauty and
variety that does Princess Mary, but of
larger size. If so, I feel sure that the
information would be useful to others
besides myself. — A.

Iris fimbriata. — " T. M. D.'s " note
and illustration of this plant on
page 142 of March 22 issue are very
interesting. I have grown this plant
for ten years, and I never fail to
flower it. The first plant I had was
brought by a lady also from Rome,
and she called it a " Roman Iris,"
but the proper name is Iris japonica
sinensis fimbriata. I had it classified
at Kew. It is a beautiful flower,
but only lasts for such a short time.
— J. S. HiGGiNS, Glynllivon Gardens,
Carnarvon.

I was much interested to see

illustrated on page 142 of March 22
issue Iris fimbriata. I may say my
employer sent a plant of this home
from Madeira five years ago, which has
done very well and flowered very freely
every year since. I have grown it in
a vinery for the most part, and it seems
to have suited it very well. I should
be pleased to know if the plant
illustrated behaves in the same way
as mine does, that is, that here the
individual blooms, which are of a
most fascinating shade of pale blue, with very
fine delicate darker markings and a beautiful
yellow throat, only last about twenty-four horn's ;
but such a quantity of blooms are produced on the
spikes that the flowering period lasts with me
about six weeks. — David Mackie, The Gardens,
Eshott Hall, Felton, Northumberland. [It is
characteristic of this Iris for each flower to last
only for about twenty-four hours, but, as our corre-
spondent points out, so many are produced that a
good plant always has a number of open blossoms
during the flowering season. We hope next week to
publish cultinal details of this chaiming Iris. — Ed.]

Iris delicata. — As the very earliest of the
Bearded Irises, this is a valuable h'ttle plant,
although the flowers are not particularly showy.

The standards are silvery white and the falls are
sulphur coloured, with rather deeper veinings
and a yellow beard. In our large collection of
species and hybrids this is the first to flower out
of doors, and so we think it deserves to be better
known. It was raised several years ago by Mr.
W. J. Caparne, but is still very scarce. It must
be grouped with the pumilas, the flowers rising
only from 6 inches to 8 inches above the ground.
The constitution is sound and vigorous, although
it does not increase so rapidly as some varieties. —
R. Wallace and Co.

Mr. Lester Morse on Sweet Peas. — In refer-
ence to the note by Miss Hemus on page 154 of
last week's issue, 1 am only a little dabbler in

,/

fc

,-^^>;-:

THE DECIDUOUS CYPRESS (TAXODIUM DISTICHUM) IN
NORTHERN FLORIDA. NOTE THE PROMINENT " KNEES "
THAT THE TREES HAVE FORMED.

Sweet Peas, but I always like to get the best of
each colour according to the Ust issued each year
by the National Sweet Pea Society, and I have
never been disappointed with the result. The
floral committee may not be the acme of perfec-
tion— none would be to all, for what would please
one would offend another ; but 1 am sure the
present committee are quite as unprejudiced and
capable of giving us an impartial list of the best
varieties that will eventually give the best results
to the people who pay money for seed and for
whom it is intended, quite irrespective of raisers'
names, than any committee to be nominated or
headed by your correspondent. I have grown
Evelyn Hemus and Mrs. C. W. Breadmore side by
side under identical cultural conditions, but dis-

carded the former in favour of the latter because
I found Mrs. C. W. Breadmore, certainly not coarse,
but stronger in growth, far freer in flowering
and over a longer period ; in short, a better variety
all round. It is the one variety I place first in
my seed order each year as being the one I feel
I shall get the best results from, and as she has
served me so well, 1 cannot be silent when her
reputation is challenged. We all think our off-
spring far better than anyone else's, but it is indis-
creet to mention it too often. — H. P. B.. Bristol.

Chionodoxa nana. — This rare little Glory of the
Snow is a late bloomer and is a pleasing Chiono-
doxa, although considerably smaller than any of
its congeners. It hails from Crete, whence it came
several years ago, but it does not appear
to have been reimported for a consider-
able time. It has narrow leaves and
small blue and white flowers, much less
effective than those of its allies, but,
still, pleasing and interesting. It is a
sjood Chionodoxa for the rock garden. It
IS only J inches or so high. — S. Armott.

Deciduous Cypress in Northern
F 1 0 r i d a . — In The Garden for
January ri, page 23, you published
an interesting article on Taxodium
distichum, and in it reference was
made to the curious swelling of the
roots which takes place when the trees
grow in a wet place, as is often the
case. Herewith I enclose a print of a
photograph I took in Northern Florida
showing this formation, which might be
interesting enough to publish. The
appearance of the foliage may be a
little difficult to understand, as, besides
the leaves of the tree, there is what is
known as " Spanish Moss" (Tillandsia
usneoides) hanging from the branches.
This so-called Moss is very common in
Florida and forms quite a featiure in the
landscape, as it often hangs down for
several yards. I even noticed it
hanging from the telegraph wires, but
as it is of a grey colour it was not
possible to say definitely that it was
growing there. — J. C, Lame, County
A nirim.

The Fifty Best Alpines.— The hsts
of fifty best alpines given by Messrs.
Arnott and Farrer in recent numbers
of The Garden are of great interest
to those who, like myself, are but begin-
ners in the art of alpine gardening.
."Vs you invite lists from your readers.
I venture to offer one that was pub-
lished, about five years ago, by a
writer in the Times, whose articles
have since been published in book form under
the title of " Studies in Gardening." His hst is
as follows (it may be noted that there are not
quite fifty) : Achillea argentea, /Ethionema grandi-
florum, Aquilegia pyrenaica, A. alpina, Androsace
camea, Arenaria montana, Asperula Athoa, A.
hirta. Campanula garganica, C. portenschlagiana.
Daphne Cneorum majus, Dianthus alpinus, D.
callizonus, D. neglectus, Erodium guttatuni,
Gentiana vema. Geranium argenteum, Hypericum
reptans, Iberis saxatilis, Linaria alpina, Lithosper-
mum prostratum, Nierembergia rivularis, Onosma
tauricum, Oxalis enneaphylla, Papaver alpinum,
Pentstemon glaber aflinis, Phlox Nelsoni, P.
Vivid, Polemonium confertum, Polygonum vaccini-
folium, Primula nivalis, Raniuiculus amplexicaulis,

.t

April 5, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

167

Ramondia pyrenaica, Rosa alpina, Saxifraga
Cotyledon, S. burseriaiia major, Sapoiiaria ocy-
moides, Sempervivura arachiioideum, S. Laggeri,
Silene alpestris, Viola gracilis and Veronica pros-
trata. Perhaps I ought to mention that this
list is called " The Fifty Best Rock Plants " (not
alpines), which may account for some of its varia-
tions from the others. The writer had in a previous
article given a list of the fifty best hardy perennials.
— L. B.

Had you not invited criticisms of the lists

given, I should not have dared to comment on
Mr. Farrer's choice of his beloved specialities.
But my favourites would surely have resented
my allowing them to remain unnamed, and I cannot
risk their displeasure ; therefore I must crave
Mr. Farrer's forgiveness for carving his list. Quite
apart from colour and times of blooming, I must
first include Sisyrinchium grandiflorum and dis-
pense with Primula x intermedia ; then I could
do without Saxifraga Cotyledon, but no't so Calan-
drinia Howellii. Anemone sylvestris major, sweet-
scented beauty though it be, must give place to
A. nemorosa Allenii, which I consider to be the
most beautiful of all dwarf Anemones. Rhodo-
dendron raremosum must be there at the expense
of — shall 1 say ? — Geranium lancastriense. Lastly,
please let me include Primula iuvolucrata, a mass
of it, in place of P. x pubesccns alba, much as I
love the latter. — G. G. Traherne (Captain),
Strathavt'H. X.B.

Reliable Lilies for the Garden. — I am much
itbliged to \'Our tijiitributur " H. P." for sup-
pli-nienting on page 142, issue March 22,
niv hst of " Reliable Lilies for the Garden." Some
yrars ago a selection oi varieties that I made at
the request of the Duchess of Sutherland for a
projected " Lily garden " at l.illeshall House in
Shropshire was supplemented by Sir Herljert
Maxwell in a similar way. I am glad your corre-
spondent has included Lilium Hansonii and 1.,
excelsum, which I cultivate in my garden and
greatly admire. — David R. Williamson.

The Advance in Yellow Roses. — During the

last two decades or so we have had a vast imprttve-
ment in yellow Roses. Mar^chal Niel, Celine
Forestier and Reve d'Or were for a long time our
best and most generally grown yellows among
climbers, with Isabella Sprunt, Mme. Falcot and
Marie van Houtte as dwarfer growers. Unfortu-
nately, the first two in these selections are rather
tiMider, but, wliere they do well, few among the
large number of newer y Hows can approach them.
It is the purer yellows that I have more particu-
larly in ray mind at present, "but must perforce
say that there has been equal improvement in
buth flowers, habit of growth and general useful-
ness ill the class of orange and golden yellows,
with their many and varied beautiful shadings.
The best newer yellows among the Hybrid Teas
must include Miss Alice de Rothschild, Gustave
Regis, Instituteur Sirdey, James Coey, Le Progres,
Melody, Senateur Mascurand and Walter Speed ;
while among the Teas we have a few grand additions
ill Harry Kirk, Alexander Hill Gray, Lady Hilling-
dun, Medea and Sulphurea. In the newer class
of Pernetiana Roses Rayon d'Or stands head
and shoulders above the rest. It is freer blooming
than most in its section, and retains its depth
of pure yellow right up to the last. As a rule,
our other yellows have a tendency to pale very
rapidly as the flowers expand. Both Rayon d'Or
and Miss Alice de Rothschild are marked excep-
tions to this, and have been good during the widely
varying seasons since their introduction. — A. P.

PRIZES FOR THE BEST
ROCK GARDENS.

SCIENCE IN RELATION TO
HORTICULTURE.

To further stimulate the interest that is now being
taken in rock gardens, the Proprietors of The
Garden olTer the following prizes for three photo-
graphs of a rock garden, or portions of a rock
garden :

First prize : Five Guineas, or a Silver Cup of
that value.

Second prize : Two Guineas, or Bool<s of that
value.

Third prize : One Guinea.

The competition is open only to the actual
owner of the rock garden, or to his or her gardener.
The object is to encourage good rock gardening,
and preference will, therefore, be given to those
rock gardens which show originality in design, and
where the plants depicted are well grown. It
should be distinctly understood that awards will
be made to the best rock gardens, and not neces-
sarily to the best photographs. The photographs
need not be taken by the competitor, who must,
however, in such cases have the written consent
of the photographer for their reproduction in The
Garden. The competition is subject to the
following rules :

1. Not more than three photographs of each

garden may be sent in by one competitor.

2. Each photograph must have the full name and

address of the competitor plainly written
on the back in ink.

1 Successful competitors shall furnish written
particulars of the rock garden forming the
subject of their photographs.

i Glazed P.O. P. prints must be sent, and each
should be on a mount with not more than
half an inch margin.

5 All photographs must be sent to arrive at
The Garden Offices, 20, Tavistock Street,
Strand, W.C, not later than June i, 1913.

('. Unsuccessful photographs sent in for com-
petition will be returned if a sufficiently
stamped and addressed envelope or wrapper
is enclosed for the purpose, but no responsi-
bility will be taken for the loss or damage of
photographs submitted, although every care
will be taken to return them uninjured.

7. The Proprietors of The G.\rden reserve to
themselves the right to reproduce any
photograph sent in for competition.

S The decision of the Editor will be final.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

April 8. — Cornwall Daffodil and Spring Flower
Show at 'Truro (two days). Devon Daffodil and
Spring Flower Show at Barnstaple (two days).

.April 9. — Royal Caledonian Horticultural
Society's Spring Show at Edinburgh (two days).

April 10. — Perpetual Flowering Carnation
Society's Show at Leamington (two days). East
.\nglian Horticultural Club's Meeting.

April 14. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Annual Meeting.

April 15. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting
and Daffodil Show (two days). Lecture by the
Rev. Professor G. Henslew on " The Origin of
Life — Why it is Undiscoverable."

April 16. — Royal Horticultural Society's Bulb
Show and Primula Conference. Royal Horti-
cultural Society of Ireland Spring Flower Show
(two days). County Clare Horticultural Society's
Spring Show.

STERILISATION OF SOILS.

THE subject of soil sterilisation is receiving
considerable attention at present from
gardeners, and especially from market-
gardeners raising crops under glass.
It is found that the rich artificial
soils with a high water content and
summer temperature used in such cases form a
particularly favourable medium for the growth
and development of certain forms of minute life,
and that these .gradually make the soil unhealthy
to the roots of the crop. The soil becomes " sick,"
and hence useless for greenhouse work unless the
sickness can be cured and health again restored
to it. Some of the organisms frequent in " sick "
soils are animal creatures, such as the minute
worms that cause " clubbing " in Cucumbers,
while others are of a fungal nature, like the parasite
that produces " sleepy disease " in Tomatoes.
But if these were the only inhabitants of the soil,
while they would still induce disease, yet they
could hardly bring about that peculiar soil condition
recognised as " sickness."

For a proper understanding of the subject w<-
must know something more about the soil, and
especially understand the conditions that deter-
mine its fertility. Tlie soil is not a mere mass
of inert material ; on the contrary, it teems with
life ; it is a world in itself. Each tiny particle
of soil is surrounded by a film of water, and as
these films are in touch with one another, it follows
that a vast sheet of water extends throughout
the entire soil. In this shallow sea of soil water
uncountable numbers of bacteria " live, move end
have their being," together with minute slow-
moving animals (protozoa) that feed upon these
bacteria as herbivorous animals feed upon grass
in the upper world. The bacteria play a most
important part in the nutrition of crops. Some
break down the organic matter of manure, 5"C., and
liberate ammonia ; others convert the ammonia
into nitrates ; while others, again, can utilise the
free nitrogen of the air in the interspaces of the soil.
Without bacteria the soil would be barren ; the
food might be there, yet the crops would starve,
because, unless fermentation is induced, the food
material cannot be dissolved in water, and hence
the feeding roots cannot absorb it. Now, under the
conditions of intensive culture in a warm greenhouse,
it seems that the protozoa are very highly favoured,
and that as they increase enormously in numbers
they reduce the population of bacteria to such a
degree that their efficiency is seriously interfered
with, and the soil, although excessively rich, fails
to supply a sufficiency of food to the growing crops.
It becomes " sick."

We can now turn our attention to sterilisation
and its use in practical horticulture. In 1888 Franke
discovered that by heating a soil he increased the
amount of soluble foodstuff in it, while later
experiments showed that chief among these were
soluble compounds of phosphorus and nitrogen.
In 1902 Dietrich made the important discovery
that while this was true, >ct at the same time
certain poisonous substances were liberated on
heating, but pointed out that these might be
neutralised by the use of lime. Later it was noted
by Schule that even without lime the poisonous
properties of the soil gradually disappeared, and that
the crop, growing poorly at first, afterwards made
great progress in its growth.

168

THE GAitDEN.

[April 5, 1913.

In 1907 Russel and Darbeshire found that they
were able to get the same results by the use of
antiseptics as others had got by heating the soil
to the boiling point of water. New this was a
most important discovery, as it pointed to the real
nature of the cause. It indicated a biological
factor in addition to a chemical one in producing
the results of sterilisation. Following up this
work, Russel and Hutcliinson, in 1907, published
a paper in which it was first suggested that protozoa
were the chief cause of soil sickness. The explana-
tion is this ; By heating the soil frcm 95° Cent, to
100^ Cent, it is partially, not wholly, sterilised.
The animal population is destroyed, but not the
bacterial, at least, not entirely. By the use of an
antiseptic, such as carbon bisulphide or formalin,
the protoeoa are killed ; but the only effect upon
the bacteria is to throw them into a state of rest,
and when the volatile antiseptic escapes, as it will
in time, the bacteria awake and renew their
activities. So that after partial sterilisation,
either by heat or by the use of antiseptics, when

of heated soils, it is shown that sterilisation induces
the formation of both beneficial substances (guanine,
for example) and harmful ones, and that for a
certain length of time the harmful compounds
overbalance the good effect of the beneficial. This
explains the results obtained by Pickering in 1908,
that seeds on heated soils germinated very badly
indeed. Russel and Petherbridge have been recently
engaged in an investigation on "sickness" in
greenhouse soil in association with market-growers
in the VValtham Cross district. London ; but reference
to this and other experiments dealing with more
intimate details of sterilisation procedure must be
held over until another opportunity. D. Houston.
Royal College of Science for Ireland.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

SOME UNCOMMON ALPINES.

The following notes contain a list, with cultural
bints, of some good alpine plants that are not too

is very striking, being spotted with black. It
has beautiful pink flowers, standing about one
I foot in height. It thrives well in very sandy
soil.

Veronica Teucrium dubia E. C. Bowell.—

A beautiful pink form of our common prostrate
Veronica. It thrives well in any sunny posi-
tion, and will be a great acquisition for the
rock garden.

Antbemis Hauschnecbtii. — For a white sUvery

foliage effect this takes first rank among all
alpines I know. As it is not deciduous, it
gives this beautiful effect all the year romid
on a well-drained, sumiy position. It is about
' one foot in height, and has a charming yellow
flower.

Lathyrus cyaneus. — The smallest of uji

perennial Everlasting Peas, with blue flowers,

and only about six inches in height. It

! flowers in. April, and is a very desirable plant

' for the rockery. It does best with me in half

shade, • which brings out its true

beautiful blue.

Cheltenham. E. C. Bowell.

A LITTLE-KNOWN GENTIAN FROM ASIA iMINOR (GENTIANA FREYNIANA).

the bacteria become active again they find them-
selves in surroundings entirely freed from their
voracious enemies, and thus they feed, grow and
multiply at an amazing rate, and hence, incidentally,
liberate an abundant supply of food to the growing
crop. The partial sterilisation of soil for forcing
work, especially in Cucumber and Lettuce culture, is
largely practised in the United States. Such pests
as nematoids and the Rhizoctonia fungus are
destroyed, and an increase of growth secured equal
to 33 per cent, in recorded cases. Of course, great
care must be taken not to overheat the soil so as
to kill the resting bacteria,' else inoculation with
fresh bacteria from natural soil must be resorted to.
In a recently-issued Bulletin from the Bureau
of Soils, Washington, dealing with the chemistry

well known, but which are worthy of extended
cultivation :

Centaurea stricta. — The smallest and the gem
of the genus Centaurea, and very suitable for the
rockery, being about six inches high, with pretty
blue flowers arising from silvery grey foliage.
It loves a well-drained position, and increases
readily by runners.

Felicia abyssinica. — An extremely beautiful
little composite shrub about nine inches high,
with fine feathery foliage, from which arise elegant
pale blue flowers. It is very continuous in flower-
ing, and loves a svmny spot.

Oxalis Lasiandra. — A gem for a shady position
on the rockery. Its beautiful coppery foliage

A FREE FLOWERING
GENTIAN.

(GENTIANA FREYNIANA.)

How beautiful are the patches of
intense blue made by alpine Gen-
tians in their mountainous homes ;
but, alas, how disappointing Gen-
tians sometimes are in lowland
gardens ! When planting these gems
of the High Alps, they should be
tried in different parts of the same
rock garden, for it often happens
that they succeed m one spot and
dwindle away in another for no
obvious reason, and this is notably
the case with Gentiana verna, the
most beautiful of all Gentians. Now
and then one hears complaints about
Gentiana acaulis, owing to the paucity
of blooms, while it is well known that
the intense blue'colouring of Gentians
in general is never so bright as
when seen in the pure atmosphere of
their mountain homes.

There are many forms of the
Gentian in cultivation, most of
which are suitable for the rock
garden. One catalogue gives uo fewer
than forty-two species and varieties,
but one might look in vain in
niurserymen's catalogues for any
mention of G. freyniana. This
obscure and comparatively rare species is not
unlike its near relative G. septemfida. The
flowers are of intense blue, and the profusion
in which the clusters are borne is clearly
depicted in the accompanying illustration, taken
in the rock garden at Kew. The home of this
little-knowii Gentian is m the mountains of
Asia Minor, and so far as it has been tried in this
country it promises to give a plentiful supply ol
flowers that may be relied upon in successive
years. The flowers are seen at their best about
mid-July, and when better known this profusely-
flowered Gentian will be looked upon as quite an
acquisition for the rock garden. A sandy loam
forms a suitable medium, but, like other Gentians,
it resents disturbance at the root.

April 5, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

169

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

DAFFODILS AT VINCENT SQUARE.

March i8.
{Conttmicd /com Pai^e 164.)

[BROKE off my notes on the flowers exhibited
on March 18 to include two items of news
which I felt sure would be of much interest
to Daffodil people. Going back to Mr.
A. M. Wilson's group, I must not omit to
mention that it contained the one flower
that received an award of merit.
This was Judith, an early giant
Leedsii with a rather pointed-
looking perianth and a good long
stem. It was probably this feature,
combined with its earliness, that
weighed more than anything else
with those who voted in its
favour. Beryl was also up before
the committee. A remark of one
of the big men on this body has .
provided me with a good deal of
food for reflection : " No, Mr.
Chairman, you cannot give hii
award to such a small flower ; how
can you ? " Poor little Beryl ! Had
vou only been larger, this giant
would have voted for you. It seems
A bit hard on the small folk, this
wnrship of size. I do the same
nnself in some things, I know.
I like a turkey better than a snipe,
liut that is because life is too short
to spend unnecessary time in pick-
ing bones. Beryl had refinement,
exquisite texture, pleasing shape,
regularity of outline, and novelty
of type (inasmuch as it is a cycla-
mineus hybrid), but it had not
the one thing needful — size. Prob-
ably a good many readers will not
agree with me about the turkey
and the snipe. I would, however,
like to know what they think
about size in Daffodils, because,
when I am called upon to judge, I
feel that I am bound to pocket as
far as possible my own personal
leanings, and that I must try to
give my rulings with due regard to
the unwritten consensus of expert
opinion. Letters from those inter-
ested would be most instructive if
the Editor can find room for some.
Messrs. R. H. Bath's exhibit was
chiefly interesting because it in-
cluded a fair number of home-
raised seedlings. Two white trum-
pets and a soft yellow one were
quite first-rate. Mr. Leak, the
manager, not only knows a good ^ m\g.\iI'

flower when he sees it, but he
evidently knows how to make
one. Two of the named varieties appealed to
me very much : (i) Golden Dustman, which may
be called a glorified Santa Maria with all its charm
of shape and rich colouring, and with this valuable
addition, a do-anywhere constitution, which I
am sorry to say its prototype lacks; (2) Dream,
a small but very refined Dutch seedling, which
under glass comes nearly white (size 3J inches
by I J inches by i inch). Miss Ciurrey bought
probably the most beautiful show flower that we

have of this type when she acquired White
Knight from Holland. The present variety
cannot compete with it for this purpose, but
for pots it must be very dainty. I think
the price is somewhere about five shillings, so
most of us will have to wait for it a little
longer. Here and elsewhere in the hall was
to be seen a vase of my favourite Ber-
nardino. Every year it seems to grow on one
more and more. I can recommend it not only
for its exquisite beauty, but also for its grand
constitution and power of increase.

ICENT BLOOM Ol" THE LATE-FLOWERING DAFFODIL THE
DOCTOR.

Seedlings occupied a considerable space in Mr.
F. Herbert Chapman's group. A single bloom of
Tennyson was one of the nicest things there. I
was told I had once described it as a very gentle-
manly flower. So it is. There is nothing obtru-
sive in its composition : everything is just right.
Shrove is a curious, rather delicate-looking bloom,
which somewhat reminded me of Dawn, with a
pale primrose perianth and a citron-coloured eye,
large and smooth, and as flat as a pancake ; hence,

I am told, "Shrove." Oh, these names! What
are we coming to ? My Celtic friend, Mr. Watts
of St. .\saph, unfortunately (shall I say ?) for us
had an ancestor. Dr. William Owen, who was
the author of our standard Welsh Dictionary and
Grammar. Filial piety, no doubt, suggested its
use when naming seedlings, and there they were in
the hall, a whole batch of them — incomparabilises
of various shapes, sizes and colouring, each little
stranger with a nice little name, just as Welsh as
itself. Cenig, Erevan and Hcngan were the ones I
liked best, the first being a large starfish-shaped
self flower of a pleasing shade of
yellow, with just a narrow band
of red round its edge ; Erevan,
a soft yellow after Autocrat, and
Hengan, a soft yellow after Frank
.Miles. One ugly-looking trumpet
was called Defol. Our friend evi-
dently does not agree with Miss
Marie Corelli's presentment of that
gentleman in one of her most
famous novels to give this flower
such an appellation. Beware of
these innocent-looking names !

Robert Sydenham, Limited, had^
a good vase of that large pale
mcomparabilis Victory and that
ultra-refined-looking Miss Leeds.
Both are good for the show table,
but as I have not grown them
myself I can say nothing about
their garden properties. A small
si-inch pan of splendidly-grown
N. triandrus calathinus, with ten
bulbs in it, was one of the most
delightful things in the show.
Each bulb sends up one stem,
seldom more, and each stem bears
two large white, pendulous flowers,
in shape like the better-known
triandrus, but far^more beautiful.
If a small cold frame could be
given up to them, there is no
reason why they should not be
raised from seed, which they pro-
duce in abundance if they are
helped by a brush ; at least V
suggest it is, as the Scotch minister*
said, " an experiment well worth
trying."

Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin,
as remarked last week, had some
of their own seedlings on view.
They were nothing very remark-
able, with the exception of a much-
frilled and irregularly-shaped giant
Leedsii. One would like to see
it again next year, as floral com-
mittees often say. In Marshlight
they have annexed some bulbs of
a very striking flower. I call it
an intensified Lucifer, and if only
its deep red cup will hold colour
like that variety, it will be a fine
garden plant indeed. Mr. WUson, who holds the bulk
of the stock, is sticking to it, and it takes a tempting
offer to make him part. Solviinr ambulandu.

Mr. Christopher Bourne had not the same array
of novelties as he had a fortnight earlier. The
highly-coloured Poetaz Scarlet Gem occupied a
central position in the group. Its all-red cups and
strong yellow, flat perianths give it a remarkable ap-
pearance. When one thinks of this and Mr. Wilson's
Rubellite. one begins to realise the changes that

170

THE GARDEN.

[April 5, 1913.

are taking place in this section. Below Scarlet
Gem and equally prominent were two particularly
fine, large, yellow trumpets, The Earl and The
Doctor. They were a striking contrast in colour
and shape. The Earl was a rich deep yellow self
with a trumpet the exact counterpart of a King
Alfred and a real obvallaris-looking perianth,
but, of course, greatly enlarged. A very fine
thing. (Size, 4J inches over all ; trumpet, if inches
long by 2 inches wide at the brim.) The Doctor
was much paler in colouring, a sort of yellow
bicolor, with a soft yellow trumpet and a deep
primrose perianth of exquisite texture. The bold
trumpet reminded me of Glory of Leiden with a
recurved brim, while its perianth was pointed and
overlapping and inclined to incurve like it does in
Frank Miles. (Size, 4J inches by 2 inches by

covered with the white mealy substance known
as farina. The great point about this welcome
Primula is that there is every reason to hope that
it will prove hardy.

BEAUTIFUL BORDER FLOWERS.

(The Heucheras.)
The genus Heuchera, commonly known as Alum-
root or American Sanicle, was first introduced into
this country in 1656 from Northern and Western
America, but it is only of recent years that the
plants have been used to any great extent for orna-
mental purposes. H. sanguinea, a species from New
Mexico, introduced in 1822, is by far the best
and the origin of many of the fine forms now grown,
although very few of them equal the type so far

till May, the pieces neing placed in sandy soil in
a warm, sheltered corner and left till the autumn
or following spring. By then they will have made
good plants for putting in their permanent quarters.
The latter method is advisable, as Heucheras
hybridise so freely that seed cannot always be
relied upon to come true.

A few of the best are H. sanguinea, H. s. rubris,
H. s. Profusion, H. s. alba, H. s. splendens, H.
grandiflora, H. micrantha, H, brizoides, H. b. gracil-
lima, H. Rosamund and H. zabeliana, all of which
are worthy of a place in every garden. F. G. P.

l'RIMUL.\ PURDOMII, .\ NEW SPECIES 1-ROM CHINA WITH P.\LE LILAC FLOWERS.

2 inches.) It is a very late bloomer, and of
great value on this account. I think it was about
the only yellow trumpet shown in the competitive
classes at Birmingham last year. The bloom of
The Earl was from the open, and that of The Doctor
from a cool greenhouse ; hence their appearance
on the stage together. They were fine examples
of their respective types. Joseph Jacob.

PRIMULA PURDOMII.

New Primulas continue to arrive, and the latest
introduction is P. Purdomii, collected in West
Kan-Su, China, by Mr. W. Purdom on behalf of
Messrs. James Veitch and Sons. As described in
last week's issue, page r63, the flowers of this
new and very distinct species are pale lilac and
delightfully scented, while the foliage is densely

as colour goes, but are of a more free-flowering
habit.

They are excellent subjects for the herbaceous

borders, the wild garden, and even the rock garden,

making a fine show from May until the end of

July, and some continue to flower on until October.

: .A.part from their flowers, many are worthy of a

I place for their handsome foliage alone. The

flowers are also of great value for cutting, being

j light and graceful and remaining fresh in water

for a considerable time.

Heucheras require an open, sunny position
in ordinary light, rich or peaty soil, but will not
succeed in pure sand or heavy clay. They are
easily propagated by seed, sown almost at any
time in a cool frame and pricked out when large
enough, or hv division of the crowns from March

SIX ANNUALS THAT MIGHT BE
MORE GROWN.

I SUPPOSE a captions critic in reading my headiri;;

might ask, " Why limit it to six ; all annuals should
be ' more grown'?' But the six I
propose to call the attention ot
readers to in these notes are not
\-ct tn be found in every garden,
.md while I should hesitate to
label them uncommon, they might
with advantage be more frequently
seen

Cosmea or Cosmos : New Early-
Flowering Varieties. — The word
larly-fiowciiiig is important. There
is no comparison between the ettei-
tiveness of these new varieties and
the old Cosmos, which with difliculty
was induced to flower at all before
October, whereas these new kinds are
in full flower in July and continue
right lip to the first frost. There are
three kinds — White Queen, Rose
Queen and Crimson King. The first
two are excellent varieties, with
flowers 3 inches across, borne on
long stems on plants that reach
.{ feet in heieht. with foliage that is
very useful for vase and table
decoration. Crimson King I found
was not quite fi.xed either as to
colour or shape of flower, and it
was also later coming into bloom ;
so I ■ am only here recommending
White Queen and Rose Queen,
and if one only is to be chosen,
I prefer Rose Queen. Messrs. Dobbie
have obtained an award of merit
from the Royal Horticultural
Society for both of these varieties.
Coming from Mexico as they do,
one would hardly have expected
the moist weather of last summer
to have suited them ; but they did
excellently here. A soil not too rich in manure
should be given them ; otherwise too much
foliage is produced at the expense of the
flowers. I sowed under a frame in March,
boxed them in -April, and transplanted in Ma>'
to their flowering quarters. No heat is neces-
sary to raise them, and the seed germinated
very freely.

Arctotis grandis, another delightful composite,
this time from the Cape, can be treated in exactly
the same way. The plants are low-growing,
foliage grey in colour, and tomentous or hairj .
The flowers are produced on very long footstalks.
They are pure white on the inside of tht petal,
with a wonderful blue-centred eye that brightens
the silvery sheen of the petals. These latter are
delicate lilar blue on the under surf.ice. The

Ai'Rii. 5. 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

171

flowers are Marguerite-shaped, some 3 inches across,
last a long time when rut, and are very beautiful.
!,a?t year suited Ihcm, as they like plenty of
nioi-tuiT.

Linaria maroc^ana Excelsior. — This is most
useful either in the border, where it grows 18 inches,
or on a dwarf wall, where, I think, it is at its best.
The number of colours one gets is astonishing.
The flower itself is Snapdragon-shaped in miniature.
Some of the combinations arc very pretty — purple
and orang". light and dark blue, two shades of
pink, yellow and white, dark crimson and yellow,
pale lavender and yellow, pure white and dark
violet. It should be sown thinly where it is to
flower in April, and is smothered in blossom right
np to the end of October ; in fact, I had some
flowers out at Christmas on a sheltered corner
of the dwarf wall. A threepenny packet will
give you hundreds of plants.

Omphalodes linifolia. — A I'or-

lllglU'Se I nr;4et-nie n.it with grey-
grcen foliage and purest white
flowers, sometimes called Venus'
Navel-wort, I believe from the
shape of the seed-vessel. Sown
thinly where it is to flower, only
just covering the seeds, it grows
about twelve inches to eighteen
iin-hes high, and makes a pretty
little bush some six inches or
nine inches through. It is a very
old favourite with me, the foliage
making a nice cool spot to rest the
eye on. It seeds itself very freely,
and if these are not disturbed,
they will flower early in the year
and make much bigger plants than
the spring-sown seeds.

Platystemon californiciis. - A

Californian Poppywort, but there
is nothing gross about this delight-
ful little plant. Crowing some
f> inches to g inches high, it forms
a tuft, sending out its buds and
flowers on 6-inch stalks. The coloui
is a cool cream yellow, the flowers
about the size of a sixpence, with
a lovely .array of stamens in the
centre. The flouer -in shape re-
tninds one of the Grass of Parnas-
sus ; here again we have glaucous
grey-green hairy foliage. Sown in
March or April where it is to flower
and well thinned, it makes a charm-
ing picture. Useful for the rock
garden or dwarf wall, or for the
border. ft flowers in June, and
generally flowers itself to death by
October. It seeds itself freely. I have never
heard any garden name for this plant. Is
there one ? It should be something with cream
in it !

lonopsidium acaule.— A pretty little Cress
from Portugal rarely growing above 2 inches high.
It is used here for the crevices of the paved walk and
dwarf wall. Quite hardy ; in flower all the year
round — even as 1 write. Its delicate pale lavender,
cruciform flowers are always welcome. It prefers
a damp spot and sows itself freely, the plants
flowering within two months of sowing. If sown
in September, it could be used to carpet bulb-beds ;
if in April, it will be in flower by Jime. If thinned
out, the plants will get quite a respectable size,
hut I like the small ones best. .Another amiual
■ •f somewhat bigger habit, but still on the small
side, ajid one that can be put to similar uses, is

Saxifraga Cymbalaria, I believe the only
annual member of this large family. Small, Ivy-
shaped leaves, it forms a tuft, very neat growing,
some three inches high, and is covered with scores
of its little golden yellow flowers all tlvrough the
summer. Quite hardy, it also is in flower from
self-sown seedlings as I write. It prefers a moist
spot ; at least, it is flourishing on a moist piece of
rockwork ; but this is not one of the six, and
perhaps would not appeal to everyone, as I believe
the others will.

Southampton. Herbert E. Molyneu.k.

TULIPA CLUSIANA.

This charming and dainty Tulip has found a resting-
place in British gardens ever since the early years
of the seventeenth century, for it is figured in
Parkinson's " Paradisus," and also in the second

l-INE COLONY OF "THE LADY TULIP" (TULIPA CLUSIANA)

edition of Gerard, under the name of T. persica.
In common with certain other species, it seems
to have been for a long time neglected, and possibly
it quite died out. In the latter years of the
eighteenth and at the commencement of the nine-
teenth century it was hardly ever met with, and
when it was illustrated in the famous Bat. Mag.
(the colloquial way of referring to the Botanical
Magazine), it was said to be " very rare." On
Plate 1390 of that publication there is an excellent
illustration showing the rosy red flame up the
centre of the exterior of each petal, and the deep
claret eye of the piu'e white expanded bloom.
It is worth turning up, if the volume is handy,
to compare it with the colony seen in the above
illustration. Speaking from memory, I should say it
grows from 9 inches to a foot in height. I have
had it growing in light, sandv soil in my garden

for some years without any particular attention,
and find it lives all right, but that it only increases
slowly, if at all. Its places are nice warm pockets
on the rockery and the front rows of herbaceous
borders. In either it looks well. It is hard to
say whether it is more taking in the bud or when
th- flower is fully expanded. It is always slender
and graceful, taking and charming. No, readers,
I am not wandering ; it is still a Tulip that I am
describing ; but it is one we gardeners all love and
admire. It is " The Lady Tulip." Never was flower
more appropriately named. Joseph Jacob.

SWRET PEA NOTES.

It is acknowledged to be the right of an
Knglishman to grumble at everything, and
when all else fails him, which is very seldom, he
falls back upon the weather. The
things which he says of it would,
if only approximately true, make
it impossible to grow a single
plant in our gardens ; but, happily,
there is much exaggeration, and,
despite the badness, successes are
achievsd every year that make the
worker in other lands, where the
conditions are supposed to be
ideal, decidedly envious. Without
claiming that our climate is
perfect, or even near that extra-
. ^ ordinary state, it is my opinion

j^ that there is not much wrong.

' ■ .^^^ In some districts the conditions
may be bad, but in another they
will be good ; and as afflictions
in this particular direction rarely
\isit us in the same manner year
after year, we all get our share
of the best as well as the worst,
which is quite fair.

Immense numtjers of words
have been wasted over the weather
this season, and, according to the
pessimists, everything is bound
to fail. Sweet Peas have never
suffered such a terrible time,
Roses have been entirely ruined,
and so on ; but when the time
comes to show them to our friends
in the garden and against our
rivals in the show, it will be found
that quality and quantity are there.
.■\s far as Sweet Peas are concerned,
my experience is that they are
looking wonderfully well, and that
the year will be an excellent one
from all points of view.
Planting. — The important cultural task of the
month is planting out the stock raised from seeds
sown under glass. There are many thousands
of plants in small pots, big pots and boxes, and
all will have to go into their flowering positions
about the middle of the month. Assuredly some
cultivators who are not believers in the rule to
" Hasten slowly " will have put out their plants
before this date, but whether they gain thereby
is doubtful. It never seems to me that the con-
siderable risk involved in very early planting
is wdrth taking. What does one gain by planting
at the end of March as compared with planting
at the middle of .-Vpril ? Nothing, and one runs
the risk that the plants will be brought to a com-
plete standstill, which is a slate that the Sweet
Pea detests. As a rule, we can feel siure that if
the plants are put out when the soil and the weather

172

THE GARDEN.

[April 5, 1913.

are excellent about the middle of April, they will
not cease progression even for a very short time.

Assimiing that the soil has been fully prepared
some time ago, we shall wait only for the favour-
able weather to accomplish our task. If the plants
are splendidly rooted, as they certainly ought to
be by now, and they are firmly planted in very
deep holes, satisfactory advance is assured. Where
the seeds were sown in pots, it is almost always
wise to separate the roots, as there is a danger
that they will have matted so hard that they will
never get freely away from the hall if the planting
is intact. Where the plants have been in deep
boxes with plenty of space between them, it is
improbable that this will have occurred, and
planting can be done with plenty of soil on the
roots, though it is doubtful whether that is an
advantage or not.

Those who dread the so-called streak will be well
advised to shake all the soil from the roots and
rinse them in a weak solution of permanganate of
potash, and to spray the plants once, twice, or thrice
with the same solution after they are established
in the ground. The extra careful cultivator who
has suffered losses in previous seasons will go
further and give the soil a soaking a few hours
before planting, and he may use loz. to the gallon
of water for this purpose, whereas half that quantity
will do well for the roots and for the plants. As
it is known that the disease is most prevalent
where heavy dressings of natural manures and
over-generous applications of nitrogenous fertilisers
have been employed, it is to be hoped that amateurs
have testrained their common tendency to give
excessive amounts under the erroneous impression
that it is only on heavily-manured land that Sweet
Peas will grow to perfection. The contrary is the |
case if perfection spells quality, as it should do.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN. THE ROSE GARDEN.

POTATOES THAT RESIST WART
DISEASE.

THE report for 1912 of the Harper Adams
Agricultural College, Newport, Salop,
contains some interesting particulars of
Potatoes which have been tested at the
college and other centres in the district
with a view to ascertaining their
immunity from wart disease, which is very pre-
valent in Shropshire. We' quote the following
remarks, which apply to varieties that had nut
been previously tested by the college authorities :

" Of the early varieties none can be recom-
mended as suitable for general cultivation, each
being deficient in some respect — colour of flesh,
quality, or cropping power. Among the second
earlies. Entente Cordiale and King George V. an
the best, the former being the better in qualit\
A considerable number of maincrop varieties proviil
to be resistant, but few of them are suitable in:
general planting. Great Scot is undoubtedly th'
best of the varieties grown, and as it withstuo.l
the wet season well and was practically frci
from Phytophthora, it should be planted exten-
sively as soon as the price is right. A variety ncii
widely known is Culdees Castle. The tuber is well
shaped, eyes shallow, and the plant vigorous, whil
the quality is very high. Irish Queen is a good firin
Potato, but the eyes are rather deep and it is mit
of the type in request in English markets. Si
Malo Kidney is of good shape, but the quality 1-
not very high and it suffered considerably from
Phytophthora. It is difficult to distinguish thi-
variety from Reading Giant. Dalmeny Sun and
The Lochar are also good croppers of good quality
and very free from Phytophthora, while Flourball
is well known as a Potato ot
excellent quality. Only a few
Continental varieties proved to
be resistant, and these left much
to be desired."

THE PRUNING OF ROSES.

{Continued from page 160.)
THE HYBRID TEAS.

THE Hybrid Tea Roses vary greatly ni
habit, some very nearly approaching
the Hybrid Perpetuals, others inerging
into the Teas, while in other directions
we find varieties closely resembling
the China Roses, and, again, others
approximating to the Noisettes. Besides the
difference in the character of the growth of the

I. A HYBRID TEA ROSE BEFORE PRUNING.

GLOBE ARTICHOKES.

.Although these plants will con-
tinue bearing heads for several
years in succession without
being disturbed, after two or
three seasons the crop is not so
good as that produced by |
younger plants. These are easily j
raised by seeds or suckers, the ]
last method being that most
commonly practised, and if
detached from the old storls
with care and planted during
the end of March or early April
a very serviceable crop of tender
heads will be produced after the
older plants have ceased bearing,
thus prolonging the season for
several weeks. Artichokes de-
light in a deeply - broken - up I
soU. with plenty of manure
added. Plant the suckers in
lines and in clumps of fours,
watering them well, should the
weather set in dry, till they
become established. The root'; 1
■ if Artichokes require ample
nourishment, and in dry weather
copious supplies of manure- water
will he useful. H M.\rkh.\m.

2. THE SAME HYBRID TEA ROSE .M-'TER

PRUNING.

plants, there is great variation in the character
of the flowers. Some carry large exhibition
flowers, where form and quality will be the main
consideration ; others, numerous and medium-
sized flowers of some substance ; then there arc
varieties with comparatively .few petals or semi-
double blooms, single-flowered varieties, and
varieties carrying loose clusters of bloom. Some,
like Mme. Ravarj', are short-stalked ; others,
such as Liberty and Mme. A. Chatenay, readily
give flowers on long stalks. Again, the position
in the garden becomes of importance, also the
character of the soil. As a rule, a sunny position
and light soil will favour floriferousness, while a
heavy soil or partially-shaded situation has a
tendency in some varieties to foster the production
of foliage at the expense of flowers. All these
matters should be considered by the pruner,
as well as the age and previous culture of the plants.
John Ruskin, Gladys Harkness, Charles J. Grahame
and W. E. Lippiatt are among those which approach
the Hybrid Perpetual in habit, and may be pruned
exactly in the manner described with regard to
them.

Those Hybrid Teas which in their second growth
are apt to push up a single strong shoot often
present difficulties to the beginner. On the
principle that the stronger the shoot the longer
it should be left, it is not uncommon to see this
strong stem left long, the others being much
reduced. A common result of this treatment
is to find one of the higher buds only on the strong
shoot starting away, as though the plant was

s

April 5, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

173

endeavouring to pursue the method of growth

it had found successful during the previous swmmer.
Other things being equal. I think this is a mistake.
The case is exactly that supposed by M. Forney
in his third a.xiom of pruning. He says we give
vigour to a branch by leaving it long, if all the
other branches are pruned short. The long branch
dominates the others, and, being higher and
furnished with a larger number of eyes, it attracts
10 itself all the sap. Now, in the case supposed,
the strong branch has already made the tree one-
sided by attracting an undue proportion of the
growth of the previous summer. By leaving it
long and shortening the others, we still further
accentuate this result. Our object should be
t-xactly the opposite to this, namely, to correct
the balance of the tree, and to do this the strong
=hool should rather be reduced to less than the
Dthers than allowed to exceed them. In fact,
it should only be left longer than the rest when
some system of pegging down can be applied to
it. Fig. I represents a Hybrid Tea Rose
before pruning, and Fig. 2 the same Rose
after being rather lightly pruned. Pruning to the
extent shown in these figures would be about the
right amount for a free- flowering, strong-growing
decorative Hybrid Tea of the character of La
Tosca or Irish Elegance.

The unpnmed Rose appears to possess three
main stems and an old stump. The old stump
will be at once removed, and we are then to deal
with a very good young stem on the left of the
figure, a fair one in the middle, and one on the
right which is probably two years old, but has
some of last year's branches proceeding from it.
Possibly it may have been left rather long the
previous year. However that may be, supposing
the Rose we were treating were a full Rose on
which we might expect to get some specimen
flowers, such as Caroline Testout, Konigin Carola,
or Pharisaer the two stems on the left and. in the
< entre should be reduced to about half the length
^ho^^^l in Fig. 2. .md we should then tarkle the

3. TEA ROSE BEFORE PRUNING

Stem on the right of the figure. The first branch
from the base crossing to the left should be reduced
to about two buds, and we should then examine
those going to the right. Choose the best of them
and remove all the rest, and then shorten the
selected branch to about two, or possibly three,
buds, according to their position on the stem.
We shall expect to remove the whole of this branch
on the right next year, and are only now keeping
it to preserve the balance of the tree and in the
hope that it may break from its base in the course
of the year. At the same time it must be borne
in mind that these are merely general directions,
any or all of which must give way to considerations
arising from the actual condition of the plant,
the position of the buds on the stems and the
ripeness of the shoots. Again, for priming some
of the tall-growing decorative Hybrid Teas, the
directions given here would be quite inappropriate.
Such varieties as Griiss an Teplitz, Gustave Regis
and, perhaps, Rosette de la Legion d'Honneur do
not flower satisfactorily if at all closely pruned.
With these, I think, the best plan is to begin by
selecting the shoots that are strongest and most
desirable to retain ; then spur in the side shoots
on these to withm about an inch of the stem, and
remove the other shoots altogether. When this
has been done, review the plant as a whole and
shorten the retained stems slightly so as to get
a fair-shaped bush, and cut away so much of the
ends of the shoots as is found to be unripe.

TEA ROSES.

With many of the Teas the operator may exercise
a large discretion in pruning, provided he is careful
to notice and remove (i) all wood injured by
frost ; (2) unripe, sappy growths ; and (3) thin
spray-like shoots. This proviso, while it applies
more or less to all pruning, is of special import-
ance with the Teas. Roses like the pink and white
Cochets, Marie van Houtte and Anna Olivier so
readily produce basal shoots that the precautions
necessary to encourage these with the Hybrid
Perpetuals are not required,
and they may either be left
rather long or pruned hard
back, according to the size of
the bush desired. Moreover,
these Teas can at any time be
cut back to the old wood, if
necessary, with a fair certainty
of their breaking from it, and
I have at times thought I have
got more vigorous growth from
plants ot the Cochet type when
little pruned than when they
.ire cut hard back. They will
do well with either treatment.
The more upright-growing Teas,
however, and those which are
chiefly valuable for exhibition
flowers, like Mme. Constant
Soupert, should generally be
considerably shortened.

Many amateurs at first feel
some difficulty in dealing with
a much-branched bush of the
Tea Rose type. Fig. 3 shows
such a plant before pruning,
and Fig. 4 the same plant
after that operation. It will be
noticed, however, that in Fig. 4
the photograph is taken from
the opposite side of the plant
to that of Fig. 3, consequently

4. THE SAME TEA ROSE AFTER PRUNING.

the two young basal shoots shown on the left in
Fig. 3 appear on the right in Fig. 4. It will be
noticed that the pruning has been rather light.
It is possible the three thin crossing shoots retained
were actually better than they appear in the
photograph ; but if not. it would generally be
better either to remove these altogether or to spur
them back to within two eyes of the stem from which
they spring. The centre shoot of the fork shown
on the left of Fig. 4 might also, in all probability,
be taken away with advantage. It is common
to find three, or sometimes more, young stems
springmg from the bud to which the stem was
reduced the previous year, and in such cases
only two at the most should be retained, and unless
they are decidedly riper or more promising than the
outer stems, it is generally best to remove those in
the centre altogether, shortening back the others.

THE CHINAS
should either be pruned rather closely or very little,
and both methods should be practised. By this
means we get a greater continuity of flower. The
unpruned Chinas begin to flower ten days to a
fortnight before those that are pruned, and their
second flowering fills in the gap between the first
and second flowering periods of the pruned bushes.

THE NOISETTES.

The method of pruning has already been indicated.
Choose the stems to be retained and remove the
rest ; then, if the retained stems have any side
branches, spur these in to two or three buds of
the main stem. Finally, if necessary, shorten the
retained stems somewhat, but not more than is
required by the condition of the stems, the place
the plant occupies in the garden and the general
symmetry of the plant. These directions apply
tvhether the Noisette is grown on a wall, as a pillar,
or as a free bush.

THE POLYANTHA POMPONS.

The position they occupy in the garden should
generally determine the amount of pruning these
are to receive. In beds it is best to plant them
closely and cut them to the groimd each year.
On the other hand, on banks, or suitably placed
in borders they may be left to themselves, merely
removing dead wood and flower-stalks. I have
on a bank three or four plants of Marie Pavie
which have been practically imtouched for some
ten years, and have made nice, round, little bushes
some 3 feet to 4 feet high and nearly as much
through. On the other hand, Perle d'Or and
Cecile Brunner are generally best with at least a
moderate amount of pruning. White Rose.

174

THE GARDEN.

[April 5, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Sweet Peas. — Whenever the ground is in a
suitable condition. Sweet Peas may be planted
out. If the site happens to be exposed to wind,
the shelter of a few sprays of evergreen, or even
short Pea stakes, wUl help them.

Clumps in Herbaceous Borders.— These are
especially effective, but to ensure complete success
the stations should be thoroughly well prepared.
From five to eight plants will make a good clump,
but they should not be planted too close together,
nor should they be planted with the ball of soil
intact, or they may suffer during a hot spell.

Asters, Stocks and Zinnias.— These I always

thmk make the best plants when sown on a mild
hot-bed about the first week in April, as at
the time thev are large enough to prick off the
weather is such that they may be put out in any
temporary frame, where' a mat may be put over
them during the heat of the day, or at night m
the event of a very late frost.

Hardening Off Bedding Plants.— Providing
we are not experiencing sharp frosts, several of
the hardier classes of bedding plants may be
removed from the heated to quite cold frames,
and thus make room for the tender subjects which
are growing and requiring more space almost
daily.

Plants Under Glass.

SchizanthUS. — Late autumn-sown plants are
now rapidly developing their flowers, and will
require plenty of water and manure to keep them
going, especially if not overdone with pot room.
Later batches should be potted on as they require
it until the desired size of pot is reached.

Clarkias. — These also are very fast-growing
at this season, and if big specimens are required,
they may be potted into 8J-inch pots. Pro-
viding they have been carefully grown, no stop-
ping is required to induce a bushy habit of
growth ; but mucli depends on the treatment in
the early stages. A late batch of the two above-
named plants may be had by sowing now a few-
seeds in 2^-incli pots, afterwards thinning to one
pi. lilt in each pot.

Herbaceous Calceolarias. — These are now

developing their flower-heads, and large plants
may require a little staking out. h'eed regularly,
but in quite weak doses. To preserve a good
colour in the foliage, regular damping among the
plants must be practised, and they must be shaded
from all hot sunshine.

Shrubby Calceolarias, such as Chbrani, require
similar treatment, but as they are of a much hardier
nature, they may be subjected to a little heat to force
them into bloom if necessary, or, on the other hand,
may be grown in the cold frame till they commence
to bloom. Young plants may have the leading
growth pinched out, and this will make them
flower from the side growths at a much later date
and, by the way. make larger plants. These I
hnd most useful for the conservatory.

Azalea indica. — After blooming, these should
be plared all together in a house to make their
growth. Any repotting required should be
done at once. Large shifts are not necessary,
and a compost of peat, leaf-soil, sand and a srnall
proportion of loam suits them best. Very firm
potting is essential, after which a fairly warm,
moist atmosphere should be maintained till growtli
is well advanced, when they should be hardened
off and placed out of doors.

Salvia splendens. — Early propagation of this
plant IS not necessary, and if good, strong cuttings
are put in now and kept growing freely, they will
make quite large plants by the autumn. In
adchtion to the old and somewhat taller-growing
t\-pe, it is as well to grow a few plants of the dwarf
ones, such as Glory of Zurich, and these may be
flowered successfully in smaller-sized pots.

The Kitchen Garden.
Carrots. — About this date the main batch of
Carrots may be sown, providing, of course, the
ground is in a suitable condition ; if wet and
heavy, by all means defer sowing till it breaks
down to a nil-.- fine tilth.

ISVegetable Marrows. — These should now be
sown in pots in a little heat, or a frame may be at
liberty on a hot-bed, and if one or two seeds are
planted between, say, a crop of Lettuce, they will
quickly come along and take the place of the
Lettuces as they are cleared.

Gourds. — Many varieties of these are edible
as well as ornamental, and if treated as Vegetable
Marrows they will succeed admirably in any warm
garden, though for decorative effect they should
be trained on posts or over pergolas.

Peas. — Continue to sow Peas for succession
about every fourteen days, varying the quantity
according to the requirements of the establishment.

Asparagus. — The present is a very suitable
time for sowing seed. This may be sown where
it is to remam as a permanent bed, or in some
position from which the plants can be removed to a
permanent bed in two years' time. Two year old
plants may be transplanted now, having previously
prepared 'the bed by trenching and manuring.
Asparagus plants suffer very much if the roots are
left exposed to wind and sun for any length of time,
so such work should be carried out as expeditiously
as possible, covering the young crowns to the
depth of about three inches with fine, light soil.

Fruits Under Glass.

Strawberries. — Ripening fruit should be given
as much light and air as is consistent with the
state of the weather, thereby adding flavour to
the fruit. Cold draughts to the plants must be
avoided, or mildew is hkely to result. This latter
may be sometimes avoided by spraying the plants
with a httle sulphur and soft soap before the fruits
have attamed any great size.

Early Peaches in pots or planted out that have
passed the stoning stage should now be gone over,
taking off any surplus fruit. Rather more warmth
may now be 'given, and a thoroughly good feed of
Le 'Fruitier or some such manure well watered in
should set them swelling away, freely repeating
the dose in from fourteen to twenty-one days.
Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)
Wobuni J'lace Gardens, Addlestoiie, Surrey.

FOR

NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Pentstemons. — Those raised ■ from seed will
not be fit for plantmg out for some weeks, but
named varieties or selected seedlings raised from
cuttings last autumn should be planted now.
The Pentstemon requires liberal cultivation to
do it well; therefore I would advise giving the
ground a dressing of soot, fowl-manure, or bone-
meal prior to forking it over.

Antirrhinums. — Seedlings should now be ready
for transferring to cold frames to be hardened
off. .\utumn-struck lUttings should now be
planted out.

Sweet Peas. — The pots or boxes nuiy now lie
taken from the frame and stood hi some sheltered
position where they will get the full benefit of the
sun and air.

Gladioli. — Dormant bulbs should now be planted.
On most soils it is advisable to give these showy
border plants some special soil of a light, ricli
nature. If planted in lines, a good plan is to draw
a drill as for Potatoes, place a little of the prepared
compost in the bottom, plant the bulbs at a foot
or more apart, and partly fill the drill with more
of the special compost. Brenchleyensis, Childsii
and Hollandia are all good for massing.

Chrysanthemums. — Cuttings put in a few weeks
ago will now be ready for boxing off or potting off
into small pots. Place them at once in a cold
frame and keep close and shaded for a few days,
after which beware of coddling.

The Rose Garden.

Digging. — The beds and borders should be
dug over with the digging-fork, so as to aerate
the soil and give the quarters a tidy appearance.
Where dry earth was drawn up to the stems of
the plants as a winter protection, some —
rotted farmyard manure should be given
where manure was used for protection, the ranker
part of it should be removed and the remainder

ell-
and

dug m. Light dressmgs of lime and wood-ashes
will also be found beneficial.

The Rock Garden.
Taking Stock. — This is one of the gayest months
in the rock garden, and is a good time to take
notes as to any proposed modifications in the
disposition of the plants for the future. It is
also a good time to make notes as to discarding,
wholly or in part, varieties already in possession
or for the purchase of new stock. Lovers of the
cult should keep their eyes open at the Edinburgh
Spring Show next week.

Plants Under Glass.

Ferns. — The young succulent fronds of several
of the species have a great fascination for
slugs and woodlice. The Maidenhaurs are prime
favomites with them. Young Lettuce leaves
will attract slugs, and woodlice can be caught
when sheltering under half a Potato scooped out
with an aperture for admission. At night, with a
candle in hand, is the time to catch the enemy
red-handed. Precious gems should be stood on a
small inverted flower-pot stood in a " flat " filled
with water.

Winter-Flowering Begonias. — Newly-rooted
cuttings must be potted off into 2-inch pots, using
a light, open compost, say, fibrous loam, peat
and leaf-mould in equal proportions, with a dash
of sharp sand and pounded charcoal. It will be
an advantage if the pots are plmiged in Cocoanut
fibre or flaky Beech leaf-mould ; this will keep
the temperature and moisture equable at the roots.
Supply sufficient atmospheric moistture, and spray
lightly morning and afternoon.

Camellias. — These favourites of long ago have
regained some of their popularity, but the improve-
ment in their favour is so recent that few large
specimens are to be seen. They will now be out
of flower, and shoidd enjoy some rise of temperature
while making their growth.

Fruits Under Glass.

Melons. — In early houses where tlie crop has
been set, no time "should be lost in supporting
the fruits, or damage may ensue. Many devices —
wicker-work, canvas and twine — are adopted for
this purpose ; but nothing, I think, equals the
light, inexpensive nets sold for the purpose.

Second Thinning of Grapes.— Where the first

thinning was done carefully and skilfully, this is
an easy operation. It should be taken in hand
two or three weeks after the first or principal
thinning, and must be carried through with care,
as the berries are apt to be pierced by the points
(if the scissors. If a cloth is spread under the
bunch being operated on, the thiunhigs can be
utilised for tarts.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Hoeing. — The quarters which were pointed oyer
a few weeks ago will now be weathered, and
will be in good condition for hoeing. The operation
wUl both produce a fine tilth and check the weeds,
which begin to assert themselves about this period.
I would here :%aiii remind the inexperienced that
it is necessary to keep a sharp look-out for frost
and promptly drop the nets in front of fruit trees
in flower on walls.

The Kitchen Garden.
Autiunn-Sown Onions. — Many cultivators still
make an autumn sowing, Trebons being the
favourite variety, and good, useful crops— generally
immune from the fly— lau be produced by this
method. Now is the time to transplant either the
whole crop or only the thinnings. It is taken for
granted that the gnnind was well manured and
deeply dug hi autumn or winter, .\pply a dressing
of pigeon or fowl manure and fork it in, after which,
if the soil IS light, tread it firmly and rake over.
Lift the plants carefully by meaiis of a fork, and
plant to the line with a dibble, .\djust so that
the bulb will rest on the surface of the soil. Water
after planting, allow a distance of t4 inches between
the rows, <~uid plant 6 inches apart in the row.

Late Potatoes. — These must now be planted
forthwith. Their name is legion and it is dangerous
to dictate, but one has no hesitation in recom-
mending such varieties as Table Talk, The Provost.
The Factor and Golden Wonder. Allow 2j feet
between the drills, and plant 15 inches apart in
the drills. Sow a little soot and Cross' Garden
Fertiliser along the drills.

Chari.es Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midinlhian.

April 5, 1913]

THE GARDEN.

175

SEASONABLE NOTES ON
CARNATIONS.

Time was when all our Carnations were layered
in the summer, and later on transferred to the
positions in beds and borders where they were
wanted to flower in the following year ; and at the
risk of being dubbed old-fashioned I am bound
to confess that in my opinion such plants flowered
far more satisfactorily than those that are now
wintered in cold frames and put into their perma-
nent quarters this month. One would not suggest
that all varieties, in all soils and in all situations,
should be left to take their chance out of doors in
the winter. Unfortunately, the day for this has
gone, because the modem varieties of most con-
spicuous merit are indubitably more tender of
constitution than the majority of their prede-
cessors, It would, however, be well if more stock
was tried under the older system, as it would
probably be found that many plants which are
now popularly regarded as of doubtful hardiness
would safely withstand the weather, and no steps
are taken to prove the fact or the contrary.

Plants wintered in 3-inch pots in cold frames
miss that chance to develop a perfect rooting
system which those planted out always enjoy,
and the consequence is that they are not so likely
to make vigorous, healthy, floriferous plants in
the summer months. The cramping of the roots
in a restricted space, with the tendency to harden
round the porous sides of the pot, cannot be over-
come, and the effect must be distinctly prejudicial
to the eventual results.

It does not appear to me that there is any sound
reason why half the stock at least should not go
into the open ground, the remainder being potted
to winter imder cover. The objection to this is,
of coiu'se, that some of the choicest varieties do
not produce a great quantity of " grass " suitable
for layering, and that the method might, therefore,
end in disastrous loss. This is true, and the
specials might be dealt with in the more careful
manner and the generaUties treated more hardily,
according to circumstances. The risk would be
far too serious in excessively cold soils, but in
thoroughly-drained gardens with naturally warmer
soil the risk would be shght, if any. These things
are, however, matters for future consideration.
What we now have to put in hand is the planting
out, and it ought to be done as soon as possible ;
but one should not rush it to the extent of putting
the roots in a medium that was obviously in a
totally misuitable state.

Carnations are appreciative of a soil that is in
good heart, but it cannot be claimed that they
welcome fresh manure near their roots, or that
they are markedly responsive to very generous
dressings of artificial or chemical foods. Used in
moderation these will prove advantageous, but
the least excess will inevitably lead to trouble and
disappointment. One fact is incontrovertible,
and that is their decided partiality for lime in
some readily available form. Unless this mineral
is present, the plants do not assume that aspect of
lude health which one likes so much to see, nor
do they produce flowers of such outstanding excel-
lence of quality. As far as the present is con-
cerned, the readiest way of providing the essentia]
lime is in the form of old lime or mortar rubbish
crushed to a state approaching gritty dust, and this
may be freely added where a shortage is suspected.
The usual system is to dig it into the station pre-
pared for the reception of the roots ; but where
the quantity at command will permit of it, more

satisfaction accrues to broadcast it over the entire
bed or border and dig it in. There is then less
concentration, but the plants never fail to secure
the full benefit of the dressing.

When planting, the soil should be deeply loosened
and made Arm again. Unless it is known to
be quite sweet, it is wise to put in a layer of fresh
loam for the roots to rest upon, and if they can
be packed in the same material, so much the better.
In any event, they must be firm without being
so tightly fixed that extension is impossible. If
birds are known to do injury, it will be well to
put black thread or cotton over the plants. The
surface must be frequently lightly pointed over as
well with these as with plants that have wintered
out of doors. F. R.

NOTES ON AURICULAS.

A MILD winter has caused Aiu'iculas to become more
advanced in growth than is usual at this time of
the year. .Many plants are showing good trusses
fairly well advanced. In the green-edged section
these should be encouraged, as they are more
slow in opening ; this applies particularly to such
notoriously slow growers as Mrs. Henwood.

Acme, among the white edges, is in a forward
state, and wherever this is so it will be well to give
the plants cool quarters in order to delay them
opening quite so soon, but at the same time do
not let frost touch them. Cover frames with mats
as soon as the sun goes down, and keep as warm
as possible at night by keeping out cold, not by
applying artificial heat.

Sells are in a forward state, and if mild weather
prevails will need to be kept cool if the best flowers
are to be seen in good form at show-time. I am
writing from the point of view of an exhibitor
at the shows. By keeping cool I mean shaded
from bright sun during the warm part of the day.

Disbudding should be done as early as the state
of the pips will allow. Do not let the plants
suffer from laclf of moisture, but at the same time
guard against excessive watering. Alpines are
coming along well, and, providing we do not get an
April with the weather and heat of midsiunmer,
as was experienced last year, very good blooms
should be seen at the shows this year. G. J. S.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS,— TAe Editor intends to
make The Garden helpful to all readers u'ko desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch oi gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C- The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or nwss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the PUBLISHEK.

FLOWER GARDEN.

VIOLET LEAVES FOR EXAMINATION {L. C. F.).—
The Violets are affected by the fungus Homodendron
cladosporioides, which is the parasitic form of Cladosporium
herbarum. It is usually only leaves that have been
weakened by some uncongenial conditions that fall victims
to this fungus ; but, at the same time, it does much harm
itself. All attention should be given to drainage and
ventilation, and the plants should be sprayed with potas-
sium sulphide, loz. to three gallons of water.

PiEONIES AND ViOLA (H. 7.). — The herbaceous
Paeony is one of the hardiest subjects so far as its roots are
concerned (occasionally the flower-buds suffer from the
effect of late spring frosts). The occurrences are rare,
however, and even then only a bud or two may be affected.
You cannot plant Peeonies at this season with success.
Viola Mrs. C. F. Gordon is a fancy bluish purple in colour,
with a lavender blotch on each petal. These markings
are constant in some districts and variable in others.
Mrs. F. W. R. Johnstone, Cottage Maid and Countess of
Kintore are other blotched varieties.

EARLY-FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUMS (C. IK. £.}.
— The following are good and reliable sorts : Abercorn
Beauty (orange, shaded bright crimson), Blush Beauty
(blush), Horace Martin (yellow), ChatiUon (orange and
oclire yellow), Goacher's Crimson (rich crimson), Mme.
Casimir-Perier (creamy white and pink), Mme. Marie
Mas?6 (lilac mauve), Mrs. A., Willis (yellow, shaded and
striped red), Nina Blick (bronzy red), Koi des Blancs (pure
white), White Mass6 (white, sometimes tinted pink), Perle
Chatillonaise (creamy white, shaded peach), J. Bannister
(lemon yellow, shaded bronze), Claret (bright claret) and
Dame Blanche (pure white).

BLUE -FLOWERING PERENNIALS {Emelie Behm).—
The great period of blue in the garden is .Tune and
July, when Iris, Delphinium and Anchusa are giving a
rich display ; after that time we have to be content with
minor subjects, the best of which are Galcga His Maje-sty,
Erigeron speciosus, Aster acris, A. Amellus, Campa",jla
carpatica, C. Riverslea, C. lactiflora cserulea, Eryn^ium
oliverianum, E. amethystinum and Veronica subsessilis.
You might introduce each year a few plants of Salvia
patens, and A. azureus granditlorus, which is hardy. There
is also the so-called race of blue herbaceous PlUo^es,
which are of violet ami rich purple shades ; Iris, Le Mahdi,
Gloire du Marc and Violet are some of them, and, planted
in groups apart, they are singularly effective and good.

IRIS AND STONE WALL (//ex).— The specimen sent
for naming is Pulmonaria officinalis. The Iris, from your
description, is I. reticulata. It is a bulbous species with
2-feet-long leafage at this time. If there is not much over-
head shade, you might plant the wall of the stone well
with some of the Mossy Saxifrages, as Guildford Seedling,
muscoides purpurea and Clibrani. Erinus alpinus would
do in many cracks and crevices, and, nearer the top,
Aubrietias in one or more shades. At the base you might
introduce Arenaria balearica to climb and clothe the wall,
while the small-growing Fern, Asplenium Trichomanes,
should do quite well. In similar places we have seen the
common Polypody and Hart's tongue flourish, while
little pieces of Thrift nnd seeds of Iceland Poppies would
soon make a show. The spores of the Ferns should be
sown in tlie crevices, or, by mixing them with a little clay
and water, smear them on by the aid of a brush. You
certainly could sow seeds of Crocuses and Daffodils,
though the latter would be years before flowering. A
far better way would be to obtain the forced bulb stock
of the large growers. The bulbs are usually very cheap,
and in two years are quite satisfactory. Occasionally
we hear of such for sale, and would communicate with you
if so desired.

SEED-SOWING {Ignoramus). — You may sow seeds
of Stocks and Pinks in shallow boxes of light, sandy
soil in your conservatory at once. Prepare a compost
of two parts fibrous loam, one part leaf-mould, and one
part sand. Sift a little of the mixture through a fine-
meshed sieve and stand it on one side. Place crocks or
cinders in the bottom of the boxes, and over these place
a layer of the coarse soil which has failed to pass through
the sieve. Proceed to fill the boxes to within half an incli
of the surface with the ordinary soil, and level it with
a little of the fine material. Sow the seeds thinly and
cover with a little of the finest soil. Water with a fine-
rosed watering-can, and cover each box with a sheet of
glass and a sheet of brown paper. When the seedlings
appear, remove both glass and paper, and keep the con-
servatory well ventilated. As soon as the young plants
are large enough to handle, prick them off in boxes about
two inches apart each way. Keep the house well venti-
lated, and do not allow the plants to become dry. It'
your ground is at liberty, you may sow some of the seeds
out of doors at once. You may pot your Privet in loamy
soil at once ; keep the young shoots pinched back to induce
a bushy habit. Unless the young plants are very leggy,
there is no necessity for cutting them back when you
pot them.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

SOWING GORSE SEED (C. L. C. T.).— It is scarcely
possible to say how much Gorse seed is required per lineal
yard for a hedge, but if you sow about forty to fifty
seeds to the yard they will be quite enough. Arrange
to sow the seeds over a space 9 inches wide ; then, when
the seedlings germinate, the plants may be thinned to
9 inches apait in two alternate rows.

EVERGREENS FOR VERANDAH WALL (5. C. R.).—
The following evergreens are likely to prove satisfactory
against the wall beneath your verandah. All flower well :
Camellia japonica varieties, Choisya ternata, Escallonia
macrantha and common Myrtle (Myrtus communis).
Good soil ought to be provided at planting-time, also
proper provision made for drainage.

HEDGE UNDER ASH TREE (J5 K. P.).— You wil
find that nothing will do well as a hedge plant on a
bank composed of poor, chalky soil, under an Ash tree.
The conditions are quite against anything growing satis-
factorily. You might, however, trench the ground well
and try Bcrberis vulgaris or common Whitethorn. The
Ash roots are, however, likely to rob the hedge of all the
available food material.

176

THE GAEDEN.

[April 5, 1913-

ABOUT BERBERIS AND ACERS (7. B.).— Berberis
Bealei is a synonym of B. japonica, and differs from
B. nepalensis in having fewer leatlcts to its leaves. As
a rule, B. japonica does not have more than nine leaflets,
whereas B. nepalensis may have as many as thirteen or
fifteen. ^Thc leaflets of B. japonica are geneially much
broader than those of B. nepalensis. Acer Davidii is
a Chinese species, of less vigorous growth than A. striatum.
The correct name of the latter is»A. pennsylvanicum, and
it is the Morse Wood of the ."Eastern United States.
Prunus or Cerasus caroliniana and P. ilicifolia are distinct
species. C. ilicifolia is a native of California. It forms a
small tree 10 feet to 15 feet high, wth ovate evergreen
leaves 3 inches to 4 inches long, with conspicuously toothed
margins. The flowers are white, borne in racemes about
four inches long, and are followed by globular purple
fruits. P. caroliniana, on the other hand, is found in
North .Carolina, Florida, Texas and Bermuda. It also
is an evergreen tree. 15 feet to 18 feet high, with oblong
or oblong-lanceolate leaves up to 8 inches long, which have
entire, or almost entire, margins. The flowers are white,
produced in short spikes, and are followed by round
black fruits.

THE GREENHOUSE.

CYCLAMEN FLOWERS MALFORMED {Cyclamen). ~
The appearance of the Cyclamen flowers sent suggests
that they were attacked by insect pests, either aphides,
popularly known as green fly, or thrips, when in the bud
state. Again, the damage may have been caused by
fumigation or by too strong applications of manure.
II you are a Fellow of the Royal Horticultural Society,
you may, through the society, have your soils, manures,
&c., analysed at a fixed price. The consulting chemist
is Br. Augustus Voelcker, M.A , F.I.C., '22, Tudor
Street, New Bridge Street, London. E.C. If you are
not a Fellow of the Royal Horticultural Society, he would,
no doubt, carry out the analysis all the same, but the
charges might be diflcrent.

TREATMENT OF POINSETTIAS (R. y.).— Poinsettias
should, when the bracts have faded, be placed in the
greenhouse and kept dry. If they are too parched up, a
slight watering may be given, but very little will be
needed. Then, early in May, they may be brought out,
the soft parts of the tops of the shoots cut off, and the
plants placed in the temperature of an intermediate house,
water being given and the plants freely syringed. This
will lead to numerous young shoots being pushed forth,
and when these are nearly 3 inches long they are ready to
be taken as cuttings. The cutting may be formed of an
entire shoot with its swollen base just where it starts
from the old wood, as from this spot roots are freely
produced. Each cutting should be inserted in a small
pot, which must be clean and well drained. A light,
sandy soil must be used for the cuttiniis, which should then
be put in a close propagating-case iu a warm structure,
where, if care is taken not to over-water, they will soon
root. As soon as rooted, the cuttings must be exposed
to the air of the structure in which the propagating-case
is situated. «In a short time they will be ready for a
shift into pots 5 inches in diameter. A very suitable
soil for Poinsettias consists of good fibrous loam, lightened
by a mixture of leaf-mould, dried cow-manure and sand.

ROSE GARDEN.

BUDDING SEEDLING BRIARS LEFT OVER FROM

LAST YEAR (W. P. P.).~Yes ; you can bud the Briars
this year. It will be best to cut back the tops now to
about six inches from the ground, and have the soil dug
shallow in between the rows,

PERGOLA FOR ROSES {B. E. il/.).— The brick supports
for your pergola should be about 15 inches square,
10 feet to 12 feet high, 12 feet apart in the rows and 14 feet
between the rows. By using brick pillars you should
use rather stout cross timbers, for light rustic branches
look out of place with brick or stone pillars. Very often
squared Oak timbers are used with such supports.

PIGEON-MANURE {Goldfinch).— U you possess a large
quantity of this, the better way would be to mix it with
twice its bulk of good loamy soil and place it in a heap for
some months, turning It occasionally meanwhile. Thus
treated, it would be suitable for incorporating with the soil
of Rose-beds in the ensuing autumn, digging it in at
planting-time preferably. A peck of it put in a bag and
dropped in a thirty-six gallon tub of water would con-
stitute a weak stimulant for many plants. Twice that
amount may be used for Roses in beds in the open.

ROSE FORTUNE'S YELLOW {H. 7i.).— The premature
shedding of its foliage is a peculiarity of this Rose, shared
by few, if any, other varieties. We have an idea the trouble
lartrely arises from over-watering ; but perhaps it is due
even more so to the fact that most plants sold are grafted
upon the Briar or some other foster-stock. To be successful
with this lovely Rose, it should be raised from cuttings
or layers, and it should be planted out, if grown under
glass, in a well-drained border. The main secret of success
is in the pruning. As soon as the plant has provided its
crop of bloom, the flowering growths are cut hard back
to the main stems. New shoots will soon appear, and the
weakest of these should be removed during the summer.
After growth is completed, all the side shoots are cut back
hard, and weak points of all the leading shoots shortened.
From the spurs we obtain the glorious blooms that are
unrivalled for beauty of colouring and elegance of form.
Perhaps you can take a few cuttings now and insert in
sandy soil. Grow on when rooted, and by the autumn
you slionld have some nice, sturdy plants. If grouni out-
doors it is best if a glass coping is erected over it, and one
should be very careful that the soil is well drained.

FRUIT GARDEN.

PRUNING MAIDEN APPLE TREES (Eccleshall).~Cnt
back the terminal shoot of the centre stem by one-
third its length, and serve all the side shoots the same.
This will induce young shoots to grow from their base
in due time, and so furnish a foundation of a system of
permanent branches for the tree. If this were not done,
the trees would run into tops, leaving the bottom bare
of fruit-buds.

SILVER-LEAF ON PEACH TREES {H. H. £».).—
The Peach shoots are attacked by the disease known as
"silver-leaf," caused by the fungus Stereum purpureum.
Affected branches seldom bear fruit and rarely recover,
and It is much the best plan to cut them out entirely,
cutting back beyond the point where the wood shows "a
brown stain. If the greater part of the tree is aflected,
it would be better to remove it altogether. The shoots
cut away should be destroyed by fire, as it is on the dead
wood that the fruits of the fungus are borne.

TOMATO PLANTS IN VINERIES {W. C.).— Under the
best conditions possible, and in the hands of the best
experts, it is difficult to make good progress in setting and
properly swelling the fruit of the Tomato in the depth of
winter. Our advice to you is not to force your plants
unduly, but to keep them |steadily growing until the
days are longer and the sun has greater power. You
will find that the fruit will set and swell all right then,
provided the plants have passed through the winter in
good health. Keep the plants on the dry side for a time
and the atmosphere also fairly dry for the present, with a
mean temperature of from 55" to 65" Fahr. in the day-
time, dropping tr. 50' in tlie eaily morning, but not lower
than that.

VINE-BUDS DESTROYED BY WINTER WASH {A. J. E.)
— The safest way to proceed, we think, will be to do every-
thing you can to encourage the Vines to break into ne'w
growth from the base of the old spurs, by keeping up a
genial moist and growing atmosphere. Once you can
induce the Vines to break into new growth, the bleeding
will soon cease, and the new growth would, of courst;,
bear fruit next year. Supposing, however, your Vines
refuse to break into growth, you will still have your remedy,
for you can cut them out, say, early in May, throw
them away, make a new border, and plant at once with
nice healthy young Vines in pots in full growth. These
will be as forward at the end of the year as if you had
planted dormant Vines now, and in the meantime you
have had the satisfaction of having given your old damaged
Vines a chance.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

SCAB-RESISTING POTATOES (Bishops Offley Manor).—
Your list giveQ by the Board of Agriculture consists mostly
of unfamiliar names, but the following may be recom-
mended : Findlay's Conquest, Soutliern Star, Sutton's
Abundance, Dobhie's Favourite, Crofter, Peacemaker,
Provost, Sutton's Flour Ball, St. Malo, Kidney, Aher-
lady Early and Irish Queen.

GRUBS IN STEMS OF CABBAGE PLANTS (•/. S.).—
The grubs iu the young Cabbages are *hose ot the little
beetle Psylliodes chrysocephala. They are not often
found attacking the Cabbage, but have been recorded as
doing so a few times. The beetle is about one-sixth of
an inch long, of a bluish green colour, with reddish head
and legs. It feeds on various cruciferous plants mostly
near the coast, though it also occurs inland to some
extent. The beetle is one of the " flea " beetles.

GROWING VEGETABLES BETWEEN APPLE TREES
(B. B.) — The trees being planted only 8 feet apart does
not leave much room for the culture of vegetables round
them, bearing in mind that the ground over the roots
of the trees must not be cropped. We think the best
you can do is to plant two rows of early Potatoes. These
would be otf the ground about the end of July or early
in August, and you could then sow three or four rows of
Turnips, which would turn in during late autumn and
early winter. Tliis would do the .\pple trees no harm,
but, rattier, good by the culture of the soil entailed.

BONE-MEAL FOR POTATOES (Reader).— Yes; it is
a good manure. Spread a handful of it over a yard
length of row after the sets are put in. A better artificial
manure for Potatoes is the following : Half a hundred-
weight of guano, two hundredweight of superphosphate
of lime, and half a hundredweight of muriate of potash.
This should be applied at the rate of four hundredweight to
the acre. Potatoes do not want much dressing for show.
Wash them clean carefully without breaking the skin,
but do not attempt to polish them, as judges do not like
this. Select the tubers with the most even and smooth
surface, with shallow eyes, of good average size, not too
large nor too small.

and they are frequently abundant. The larvae usually feed
on decaymg vegetable matter, and when this is scarce
will sometimes damage the roots of neighbouring plants.
Injection of carbon bisulphide at the rate of half an ounce
to the square yard, the use of one or other of the soil
tumigants, or the pouring of boiling water on their haunts,
may be practised with advantage, while the use of lime
will help to render their surroundings uncongenial to
them. Although yours is a chalky district, it often
happens that the top soil is devoid of lime ; it easily
washes out.

APPLYING LIME (J. R. >•.).— We do not know ot anv
article dealing fully with lime-loving plants, but there
are several families of plants which have a distinct objection
to lime. The chief one is Ericaceae, and very few of the
plant.s in this Order, which includes such genera as Rhodo-
dendron, Kalmia, Erica, Calluna, Pieris, Zenobia and
Arbutus, thrive in ground which contains lime. Conifers,
as a rule, object to lime, while there are many plants
which do not object to lime in the soil wl.ich would|be
injured were lime strewn over the ground when they were
commencing to grow. If you were to spread your lime
on the surface of the ground in autumn, let It lie for a
couple of months and then fork it in, it is unlikely that
it would injure the plants you mention ; but if the same
kind of lime is spread about after the plants have com-
menced to grow, there is little doubt but what it will
kill them. It is quite likely that vegetables would be
killed in the same way if the lime was sown broadcast
over the young leaves, altliougli the plants would be
benefited were it applied to the ground in autumn

BRITISH GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION (Jt/ii Smt).-^
The British Gardeners' Association is an organisation of
professional horticulturists of every grade. Its member-
ship is widespread and influential. Its chief aims are to
endeavour to obtain wages for ^professional gardeners
commensurate with the ability necessary to be a gardener ;
to educate the public as to the real value of the gardener
to the community ; to obtain educational and travelling
facilities for its members ; to create a bond of fellowship
among professional gardeners the world over ; and to
use every endeavour to raise the status of the whole pro-
fession. The conditions of membership are that a candi-
date for membership, if over twenty-three years of age,
must have seven consecutive years of professional experi-
ence ; under twenty-three years of age, five consecutive
years' experience. Youths under twenty years of age
are eligible to join as junior members. ' The subscription
per annum for seniors is 2s. 6d., and for juniors Is. ;
entrance-fee, 2s. 6d. and Is. ed. respectively. Satisfactory
references must be submitted on application for member-
ship. It would certainly be beneficial for Scottish gardeners
to join the British Gardeners' Association, in more ways
than one. The movement is national, and in no sense a
local one. A branch exists in Edinburgh. The general
secretary's address is Ulysses, Fortune Green, London,
N.W.
NAMES OF PLANTS.— £. T. W., BtcienAead.— Veronica

lycopodioides. Miss H., Uawkhursl. — 1, Rubus specta-

bilis ; 2, 'Tsuga canadensis. A. W., Somerset. — Lathraja

Squamaria (Toothwort). At/ord. — 1, Narcissus Glitter ;

2, N. Stella super'oa. A. P. F.—TYie Daffodils are:

1, SirWatkin; 2. W. P. Milner : 3, Burbidgei : 4, Hors-
fleldii ; 5, Minnie Hume ; fi, Gwyther.

MISCELLANEOUS.

FLANNEL WEED IN POND (Vhelwynd Leech).— U is
a good plan to rake as much of the Flannel Weed as you
can out of your ponds ; but the best thing to do is to apply
copper sulphate at the rate of 2Joz. to 10,000 gallons of
water. As you have no fish in the ponds, you might use
the copper sulphate somewhat stronger, providing there
are no water plants to consider and the water is not used
for animals. It will be necessary to apply the copper
sulphate sev^'ral times during the summer. The Flannel
Weed is not Elodea canadensis.

ST. MARK'S FLY (H. E. B.. Essex).— lite grubs sent
are those of a slow-flying, two-winged fly called the St.
Mark's tty, from its habit of appearing about St. Mark's
Day. There are several species, black or red in colour.

SOCIETIES.

ELSTREE AND BOREHAM WOOD HORTICULTURAL
SOCIETY.

There was a good attendance of members aud friends
on the evening of the 13th ult., when Mr. E. Molyneux.
V.M.H., of Swanmore gave a lecture on " Herbaceous
Plants." The commodious dining-hall at the Elstree
Schools was kindly placed at the dispo.sal ot" the society
by E. L. Sanderson. Esq., who also occupied the chair.
The lecturer opened his remarks by speaking in eulogistic
terms of the value of these plants and their increasing
popularity. He then spoke of the definition of the word
" herbaceous," and of the importance when exhibiting to
include only those plants stipulated in the schedule.
Almost any site except under overhanging trees would
suffice for growing them, and as a background to the
herbaceous plants, where room was available, the lecturer
recommended climbing Koses of the Dorothy Perkins
type trained over rougli Larch or other poles. Trenching,
particularly on heavy soils, should be done at least 3 feet
deep, and plenty of manure and other suitable Ingredients
added. Unless the latter were to be freely acquired
and the subsoil was poor, leave it at the bottom. Planting
on light soil should be carried out in autumn, October
for preference ; but on lieavy soils Mr. Molyneux advocated
spring planting. On heavy soils lift a few plants of
Lychnis, Chelone barbata, &c., and winter in a box in
a cold frame. When dividing, pull the old clumps to
pieces and replant tlie outer and more vigorous growths.
The lecturer strongly advised the inclusion of bulbs,
especially Narcissi, for spring effect in the borders, as
well as others, such as Snowdrops, Crocuses and Hyacinths.
He strongly advised the inclusion of the better varieties,
especially relating to Asters or Michaelmas Oaisie's, Phlox,
Chrysanthemum maximum and Montbretlas. At the
close of the lecture many questions were put to the lecturer,
which proved very interesting, especially in relation to
the question of dividing and planting, list of best varie-
ties, Ac. Mr. E. Beckett, V.M.H., proposed a hearty
vote of thanks to the lecturer, which was warmly received.
Several new members were elected during the evening.

i&M' ■•"' ^^

GARDEN.

—j^-

No. 2160.— Vol. LXXVII.

April 12, 1913.

CONTENTS.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Notes of the Week
corbespohdence
Mr. Lester .Morse on

Sweet Peas . .
Transplanting t h e
Tulip Tree.. ,.
Wallflowers . .
Forthcoming events..

(fREENHOrSE

Treatment of liis

flmbriata . .
Winter-f lowering

Zonal Pilar-

goniums
Schizanthns . .

TREES AND SHRDBS

The Hollies and their
culLi\'ation . .

FLOWER 0.4RDEN

Seasonable notes on

Aurienlas . .
The Siarlet Wind-

Hower failing

181

lincK .4ND Water G.irdkx
The hardy Nym-
phxas or Water

Lilies 181

Primula Fnrtunei . , 182

Rose Gaedek

An early - flowering
pillar Rose . . . . 183

Seasonable work
among the Roses 183
CoLOCREi) Plate
Clark las for garden
and greenhouse.. 183
D.VFFODiL Notes .. IM
Oardenino for Beoinners
How to propagate
Sweet Violets . . 185
Garuemno of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens .. .... 183

Fur Northern gar-

dens 186

THE Fifty Best

Alpines 187

New and Rakk

Plants 187

Fruit Garden

Mealy bug on Peaches 187
Prickinq Off Alpine

seedlings .. .. 188
ANSWERS TO Corre-
spondents .. .. 188

IIiIiU ST RATIONS.

Korders of self-sown Godetia^ 179

A weeping Holly as a lawn specimen 180

.\u effective grouping of aquatic plants 181

Prinmla Fortune! 182

Rose Una growing on a pillar 183

Clarkias for garden and greenhouse .. . .Coloured plate

Ih..' new Narcissus White Emperor 184

Unw to propagate Sweet Violets 185

_\

BDITORIALr NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture :s repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

Thr Kdittii trelcoiiws photographs, articles and notfa,
ti'tt he will not b/* responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable rare, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
ennfribulions.

As reyards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly staled.
It must be distinctly understood tfiat only the actital photo-
'jrapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor wilt not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistock Utreet. Covent Garden, W.C.

Resignation of Sir Trevor Lawrence.— in

two previous issues we have reported the intention
of Sir Trevor Lawrence to resign his position as
president of the Royal Horticultural Society. This
resignation formally took place at the Council
meeting on Tuesday of last week, when Sir Trevor
vacated the chair. This was duly occupied by
the new president, Field-Marshal Lord Grenfell.
Sir Trevor has presided over the society for nearly
twenty-eight years, and during that time has
had the satisfaction of seeing it become the premier
society of its kind in the w.jrid.
Asparagus as Ornamental Foliage. — Those

who appreciate delicate green foliage with those
kinds of cut flowers which do not furnish suitable
leave; of their own should sow a little ordinary
Asparagus seed. .\ row sown in some convenient
part of the kitchen or reserve garden towards
the end of .\pril will, in the autumn, provide
small, feathery growths for cuttings ; and next
year similar graceful shoots, but of larger size,
will be available from early May until frost comes.
Seeds of the ordinary variety are cheap, and need
no special care when sown for this purpose.

The Swan River Daisy. — This pretty half-
hardy annual is known under the name of Brachy-
come iberidifoha. and produces a wealth of blue
flowers somewhat resembling a small Cineraria.
It attains a height of g inches, and should be sown
in batches or fairly large clumps to get the bes;
effect, while as an edging plant it proves extremely
useful. Seed may now be sown in the open ground,
selecting, if possible, a warm, dry situation, although
it is not fastidious regarding position There is
also a new variety in commerce, viz., Purple King,
which may be described as royal purple. The
colour is quite distinct, and the plant should be in
great demand for beds or borders where annuals
ire culti\'ated.

An Interesting Tasmanian Shrub. — 0\\ners
of gardens in Cornwall. South Wa'es and Ireland
would do well to make a note of .\nopterus glandu-
losus for future planting, while in gardens which
are less favourably situated it is well worth con-
sidering as a greenhouse plant. Belonging fo
the Saxifrage Order, it is very different in appearance
from the other shrubby members of the family
which may be grown out of doors, and its general
appearance is more suggestive of Photinia serrulat.T
than an Escallonia, Ribes, or Philadelphus. Its
rather stiff branches arc clothed with thick, ever-
green leaves with coarsely-toothed margins, which
are from 3 inches to 6 inches long and from
I J inches to 2 inches wide. The flowers are white,
with sometimes a tinge of rose on the outside of the
petals, and they are borne in rather dense terminal
racemes during early spring. The best result^
may be expected from planting it in warm, well-
drained, loamy so'l into which a little peat has
been mixed.

Portrait of the Rev. W. Wilks.— An excellent
portrait of the Rev. W. Wilks, secretary of the
Royal Horticultural Society, has been exhibited
at the Grosvenor Gallery. Bond Street, London,
during the last week. This has been painted at
the request of the Royal Horticultural Society
by Mr. William Strang. We believe this portrait
is eventually to be hung in the Council Chamber
with those of other worthy and distinguished
hortieiilturists.

Coloured Freesias. — There was a most inter-
esting exhibit in the Royal Horticultural Society's
Hall on April i, when Mr. Hoog brought over from
Haarlem one of Tubergen's best varieties. Conquest,
.-md exhibited it alongside of the original first
coloured hybrid, Tubergenii. The advance to a
purer and clearer colour was very marked, and in
our opinion fully merited an award. It was almost
of the exact shade of Rhododendron nobleaiium.
When a set with real bright colours and good-
sized blooms is evolved, Sparaxises and Ixias and
all that ilk will have to look to their laurels ; that
is, of course, with the proviso that the scent factor
is not .ill eliminated.

A Pretty Pot Plant. — in these days we do not
often see examples of the genus Diplacus, of which
there are several species, such as coccineus, puniceus
and glutinosus. It is, however, the hybrid forms
of the latter that make pretty pot plants, and the
flowers greatly resemble the Musk or Mimulus ;
in fact, they are closely allied, and we wonder if
any reader has attempted to unite the two genera
by hybridisation. Cuttings may now be inserted
in sandy soU, and if placed in gentle heat will
soon root. Grow on m a cool pit or green-
house, and when they become large enough for
4 5-inch or 6-inch pots they will produce their
flowers freely. The colour is in shades of yellow
and red. and the mnnts attain a height of 2 feet to
2A feet.

A Showy New Zealand Shrub.— in many
Cornish gardens Brachyglottis repanda, a New
Zealand Composite, is by far the most striking
flowering shrub during the present spring, for
Rhododendrons and Camellias, which are usually
the most conspicuous shrubs at this season, are
flowering very indifierently this year. The largest
bushes are frequently from 12 feet to 15 feet in
height and as far across, and they carry scores of
large, elegant, terminal panicles of small, cream-
coloured flowers which are most effective, especially
when seen against a dark background. .As a
foliage plant it has also attractions, for the ever-
green leaves are large, green above and silvery
beneath, every breath of wind disclosing the
silvery surface. Wherever the climatic conditions
are mild enough to allow it to survive the winter
out of doors, it may be grown, for once planted in
ordinary garden soil it gives no other trouble
than is required to prune it into shape occasionally
and to remove the old flower-heads at the end of
the flowering season.

178

THE GARDEN.

[April 12, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Self-Sown Godetias.— I enclose a photograph
of Godetias that were growing in my garden here
last summer. They were self-sown from plants
that were growing in the same positions in igii
Although the photograph is not very sharp, it
will serve to show the wealth of flowers that these
hardy annuals are capable of producing. — M.
Lyell, Ruckmans. Oakwood Hill, Surrey.

Fruit Trees for the North of Ireland.— It

may interest your readers to have the following
select list of fruit trees for the North of Ireland,
none of which has failed to crop for six years
in succession : Apples — Lane's Prince Albert,

valuable plant ? It is too true that it is gathered
in large quantities, and I hate to see the stiff
bunches in Oxford Market, especially as 'my friend
Mr. Potter, of the firm of Backhouse, who lives
in the neighbourhood, tells me that this wholesale
gathering must tend to decrease the number of
the plant, as it is prevented from increasing in
the natural way by seed. I was going one year
into Oxfordshire on purpose to see the Fritillaria
in bloom, but found that it would be useless, as
the meadows had been almost stripped of flowers.
Probably no bulb suffers more than the Fritillaria,
as there is foliage on the flower-stalk. Pray, Sir, do
what you can. It seems to me that the University
might with great advantage buy one or two of
the meadows and thus preserve their beauty. —
F. A. Sturge, Coed Efa, near Wrexham. [We feel
sure that all who love wild flowers, and who live
in the Oxford district, will do all they can to prevent

BORDERS OF SELF-SOWN GODETIAS IN THE GARDENS AT RUCKMANS, OAKWOOD HILL,

SURREY.

Bramley's Seedling, Lord Grosvenor, James Welsh,
Grenadier and Allington Pippin ; Pears — Hessle
(against wall) and Jargonelle ; Plum Victoria. —
Walter Smyth, Holywood, County Down.

A Freak Narcissus. — I enclose an abnormal
Narcissus, a freak which I have not seen before.
You will see that the spathe which enclosed the
bud has developed mto a leaf, and there are only
four petals and four stamens. The variety is
Sirius.— W. S. P. BuNBURY (Major), Rothsay
Gardens, Bedford. [Such examples have been
previously recorded, but they are by no means
common. — Ed.]

The Snake's-Head Fritillary.— I have read
with much interest your article on Fritillaria
Meleagris on page 158, issue March 29. Its
quaint beauty makes a meadow where it abounds
a delightful sight. Can you persuade your Oxford
readers to use their influence to preserve this

the extermination of these quaint and interesting
native plants. Certainly steps ought to be taken
to prevent the spoliation that our correspondent
states is taking place. — Ed. I

Mr. Lester Morse on Sweet Peas.— With
reference to the letter from " H. P. B." under the
above head on page 166 of last week's issue, I
need only say that mv varieties can well take
care of themselves, but that they are not the
subject of the present discussion. What every-
body who is really honestly interested in the Sweet
Pea wants is restriction upon random naming
and a considerable reduction in the present list.
I think only an amateur committee can achieve
that. In putting this idea forward I made an
attempt to find a solution, but I am prepared to
do my little best to help forward any better plan.
I have nothing more to say. — Hilda Heml's.
[This discussion is now ended. — Ed.]

The Prairie Lily in Canada. — Perhaps the

following notes may be of interest to some of your
readers. Lilium philadelphicum, the Prairie Lily,
seems, from the following extract from the " Book
of the Lily," by W. Goldring, to be little under-
stood in England : " L. philadelphicum is a gem
among the upright flowered section, and a Lily-
grower who succeeds in flowering it will regard it
as a triumph of his cultural skill. . . . It is a
difficult Lily to permanently establish, and no one
can definitely say what its exact requirements
are, as so few grow it and still fewer are successful
with it." This Lily is very common in Manitoba,
and grows in a great variety of soils, from heavy
loam on clay subsoil to sandy hill faces, but seems
to prefer a sandy loam on well-drained and sunny
hillsides. I have seen large masses of this Lily
growing to perfection on rolling sandy plains in
company with Gaillardia grandiflora, Anemone
patens and Viola delphinifolia, all plants requirim;
(with us) a somewhat dry, sunny position ; and
while the earliest blossoms are always to be looked
for on hot, dry, southern hillsides, I have never
yet found a Lily in a place where the soil was m.oist
over the winter. The btilbs usually grow at a depth
of from 3 inches to 4 inches, and the soil where
they grow is usually dry enough to crumble when
winter sets in. The ground generally freezc-s to
the depth of from 6 inches to a foot in November
and remains frozen till early in April, so that
extreme frost will not injure bulbs while dormant.
If Mr. Goldring, Mr. Bowles, or some other ex-
perienced Lily-grower has a dry, sunny bank or
rockery on which they would care to try this
Lily, 1 could send them some bulbs at planting-
time. — F. L. Skinner. Dropmore Manitoba,
Canada.

Mazus rugOSUS. — The note by the Wargrave
Plant Farm on page 154 of March 29 issue on
Mazus rugosus, which was shown by them before
the Royal Horticultural Society on March 4 and
given an award of merit, stimulates interest in a
very pretty little alpine ; but in view of the doubt
as to the correctness of the name, it would be useful
if the firm could tell us the source of their plant
and the origin of the name they attach to it. Mazus
rugosus is a very old-fashioned plant. Sweet
figured it in Vol. I. of his " British Flower
Garden " (1823), where he describes it as
a hardy annual : " The plants begin to flower
when they are scarcely two inches high and
continue to bloom all the summer and
ripen plenty of seeds, growing in pretty
round tufts, the branches spreading prostrate
on the ground in different directions. Being of
small growth and spreading flat on the ground,
it should be sown at the front of the flower borders.
The proper time for sowing them is about the
middle of April. If sown earlier they will be liable
to be injured -by the sprmg frost." Sir Joseph
Hooker also describes the plant in Vol. IV. of his
" Flora of British India" (1885) as a glabrous
or sparsely hairy annual, without runners, with
radical leaves i inch to 3 inches long and flowering
stems from 2 inches to 10 niches long, racemes
I inch to 6 inches, and corolla a quarter of an inch
to half an inch. This is obviously a different and
less valuable plant than that from the Wargrave
Plant Farm. Can the plcuit certificated be one
of the new Chinese species ? Except in the
colour of its flowers, it agrees well with the
published description of Mazus pulchellus which
Dr. Henry had collected in Ichang, and it is
perhaps a near ally of that species. — R. W.,
Colchester.

April 12. lyii-.

THE GAKDEN.

179

Transplanting the Tulip Tree,— In the issue
of The Garden of January i8 last, on page 30,
I observe some remarks on " The Tulip Tree of
.America," which draw interesting attention to
this desirable tree. That " it bears transplanting
well " is not. however, the common experience.
Significant of this I find the following direction
in the catalogue of one of the largest and most
reputable nurserymen in this country : " Plant
only in spring and prune very closely." My pur-
pose will be gained if those setting out Tulip Trees
recognise the uncertainty of so doing with success
unless care is exercised. Yet chance seedlings
of the Liriodendron spring up on my place in the
vicinity of several tall and beautiful trees grow-
ing there. Sassafras officinale is another of our
native trees well worthy of a place in the grounds,
alike for its strong green, curiously-cut foliage
from spring to its clear yellow in autumn, if only
it would transplant %vith greater facility. I have
moved some fifty plants with fair success, but
only by choosing the young plants and cutting
them back to within 3 inches or 4 inches of the
ground, and that only in the growing spring-
time. Nevertheless, the Sassafras is difficult to
extirpate from any place where it has become
established, but will spring up again and again. —
W. M. Ram?.\v, New York.

THE GREENHOUSE.

WALLFLOWERS.
One IS dressed in velvet brown.
One hath got a golden gown.
Sweet and humble is their mien.
Modest handmaids for a queen.
Stoop ! the thuribles they bring
Perfume all the paths of spring !
Winter winds, that stript the trees,
Had uo withering power on these ;
Through the rain and through the frost
Never heart of hope they lost ;
Ready for their service — bliss
They will never ask but this.
Glint of sun, and light wind's kiss !
Though they win but meagre praises
'Mid the Primroses and Daisies,
Long ago a wearied mortal
Vigilant at wisdom's portal
Found the English morning hours
Sweeter for this waft of flowers.

Though in lone, forsaken places,
Brave and bUthe they Uft their faces :
Yet, in gardens. Brown and Gold
Please the young and cheer the old.
June's too wealthy ! — I could spare
Half her splendour ! — for my share
Flowers that brave the chill March air.

Debonair,
Like my Wallflowers there.

.Agnes S. Falconer, in Country Ltfe.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

April 14. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Annual Meeting.

April 15. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting
and Daffodil Show (two days). Lecture by the
Rev. Professor G. Henslow on " The Origin of
Life — Why it is Undiscoverable."

April 16. — Royal Horticultural Society's Bulb
Show and Primula Conference. Royal Horti-
cultural Society of Ireland Spring Flower Show
(two days). County Clare Horticultural Society's
Spring Show.

.April 17. — Ipswich and East of England Spring
Flower Show.

TREATMENT OF IRIS FIMBRIATA.

[fn Answer to a. Number of Correspondents]

THE treatment which we recommended
our correspondent " T. M. D.," whose
photograph and letter were published
on page 142, issue March 22, and
which we are pleased to learn has
been so successful, is as follows :
Iris fimbriata, also known as 1. chinensis, but
whose latest name is I. japonica, is a beautiful
species that many fail to flower in a satis-
factory manner. Out of doors it is only in
particularly favoured spots that its blossoms
are produced ; hence it must chiefly be regarded
as a greenhouse plant. As far as soil is concerned,
it is not very particular, though it prefers a fairly
holding compost, such as fibrous loam, lightened
by a little well-decayed manure, leaf-mould and
sand. If repotting is needed, it should be done
directly the flowers are over, but annual potting
is, in the case of the Iris, by no means necessary ;
indeed, it often flawers in a particularly satis-
factory manner as a large mass in a good-sized
pot, suggestive of an Agapanthus. If it is not
repotted, the necessary stimulus may be applied
in the form of an occasional dose of liquid manure
during the growing season, which is in the sprinf
aud earlv summer months. At that time it should
be given a good light position in the greenhouse.
Under this treatment it will by August have
completed its growth, or nearly so, when it should
be stood out of doors in a spot fully exposed to the
sun. It must at that time be kept watered, but
rather sparingly ; that is to say, less will be needed
than in the growing season. As autumn advances
it should be again brought into the greenhouse
and stood in a good light position there. When
growth recommences, more water may be given,
and the appearance of the flowers can then soon
be reasonably anticipated.

WINTER -FLOWERING ZONAL
PELARGONIUMS.

Two very fine Zonal Pelargoniums for winter are
His Majesty, a fine rich red with a white eye, and
Winter Cheer, a lovely pate shade of Turkey red
("Colour Chart," 92.1). They were originally
introduced by Mr. W. H. Page of Hampton, and
I have found them to fulfil all that be claimed for
them. A coloured plate of the former appeared
in The Garden for March 23, 1912. Another
good variety of a distinct and very pleasing shade
of orange red is Cannell's Maxime Kovalesky. I
was very much struck with this at the early Decem-
ber Royal Horticultural Society's show, and there
and then acquired it. I have been told since it is
excellent for winter, and, judging by the plants
that have come to me from Swanley, I should say
it undoubtedly is. I do like red flowers in
December and January to brighten things up ;
hence my penchant for the above. J. Jacob.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

SCHIZANTHUS.

Few annual flowers have made greater strides
in public favour within the past few years. For
greenhouse and conservatory they produce an
unrivalled effect. At this season the young
plants will grow apace, but, providing they are
of bushy habit, no stopping of the growths is
required. .Autumn-sown plants that are develop-
ing their flowering growth may be given occasional
doses of weak cow manure and soot water.

THE HOLLIES AND THEIR CULTI-
VATION.

TH E various kinds of Hollies are un-
questionably among the most useful
of all evergreens, for they exhibit a
considerable diversity of habit and
foliage, and the majority are amenable
to cultivation in most parts of the
country. The common Holly and its varieties,
for instance, thrive luxuriantly in woods, copses
and gardens in the South of England, while they are
equally at home in many gardens in the Highlands
of Scotland. Again, they are not fastidious re-
garding soil, for they thrive equally well on the
peaty land of Woking and parts of the New Forest,
on the heavy clay of the Forest of Dean and the
chalk of the Chilterns, while they also grow well
in very light, sandy soil and that of a gravelly
character. The most unsuitable ground is that
which is subject to periodical flooding or badly
drained and inclined to sourness.

The Use of Hollies. — There are many uses to
which Hollies may be put. Their natural position
is as an undergrowth to Oak woods, and in such
places examples 30 feet to 50 feet high, which
have trunks a foot or. more in diameter, may be
met with. But they are equally adapted for
planting in full sun, and are at home as isolated
specimens or as clumps. Some kinds are excellent
for planting as lawn specimens, while no better
evergreen hedge plant can be found than the
common Holly for general planting, although some
of the broad-leaved kinds, such as Hodginsii or
Shepherdii, stand better in the vicinity of the sea.

The Time to Plant. — .Although the various
Hollies lend themselves so well to general culti-
vation, they are decidedly difiicult to establish
unless a few points regarding transplanting
are observed. When the rocts are to be pulled
about to any considerable extent, it is neces-
sary that transplanting should be done either
during late April or early May, or in August or
early September. At these times the vitality of
the plants is most pronounced and Nature com-
mences at once to repair injuries, whereas, if the
roots are disturbed in the dead of winter, they lie
dormant for several months in cold soil, and the
plants often suffer severely. Another point which
is worth considering at planting-time is the reduc-
tion of the branch system to counterbalance the
injury done to the roots, and it will be noticed that
if a few branches are removed or shortened, the
plants will be greatly benefited. Deep planting
must also be avoided, for the most vigorous plants
are those which have their feeding roots near the
surface of the soil. One of the greatest mistakes
imaginable is to bury the stems of trees, even to
the depth of a few inches ; yet it is often done
with the idea that the plant will better withstand
the efiects of wind, an altogether erroneous con-
clusion. Should the weather be dry at planting-
time, the trees must not only be well watered
when planted, but syringed overhead twice a day
for a few weeks. A surface-dressing of decayed
leaves will also do good. If by any means a large
ball of soil can be moved attached to the roots
the work may be done at almost any time ; in
fact, plants can be moved any month in the year,
but in such a case the roots are scarcely disturbed.
The Propagation of Hollies may be effected hi
one of three ways. AU species may be increased
bv seeds, which take a long while to germinate.

180

THE GAKDEN.

[April 12, 1913.

often from one to two years. Cuttings of half-ripe
shoots of species and varieties inserted in sandy
soil under a hand-light, or in a cold frame in July
or August, will root by the following spring, while
fancy kinds may be budded or grafted upon stocks
of the type. The latter, however, is not a plan
to be generally adopted, unless in the case of
those varieties which have weepijig branches,
for there is great danger of the stock growing
and spoiling the scion. In some gardens the
practice obtains of clipping Hollies into formal
cones, and the smoother the surface of the pl?nt,
the more perfect is it considered to be. Some

so than, the type, while others rarely exceed a
few feet in height. Some, again, have pendulous
branches, others large or very small leaves ; some
have variegated foliage, others are distinguished
by their very spiny or almost spineless leaves ;
while in still other instances the varieties are
distinguished by the colour of the fruits. In select-
ing variegated varieties, it is always better to
choose those with the variegation about the margins
of the leaves, rather than those with green margins
and coloured centres, for they do not revert to the
type so readily as the latter. A few good green-
leaved varieties are 1. .-V. camellisefolia, donning-

A WEtPlNG HOLLY (ILEX AQUIKOLIUM

PENUULA) AS
TO PLANT.

A LAWN SPECIMEN. NOW lb THE T1.ME

people describe this clipping as pruning, and appear
to consider it to be quite the Lurrect treatment :
but anything more hideous than these closely-
clipped plants it is difficult to imagine The best
plants are those which assume tiie form of the
b'-st woodland examples, and any necessary
pruning should take the form ol thinning out the
branches rather than clipping

One item which often causes dissatisfaction is
the failure of certain plants to produce fruit, and
the fact does not appeal" to be generally understood
that certain examples bear male flowers only and
others produce female flowers only. While, how-
ever, the former plants never bear fruit, a female
plant may do so even though there be no male
plant near, although few of the seeds will be fertile.
Those seeds which are perfect probably owe their
lertility to insect agency.

The Best Varieties. — As is very well known,
the common Holly (Ilex Aquifohum) is composed
of a large number of varieties, some of which have
been cultivated under one name or another for
upwards of a century. They exhibit a great
diversity of habit, some being as vigorous as, or more

tonensis, handsworthensis, Maruockii and ovata.
Good variegated-leaved sorts are Golden Queen,
Silver Queen, aurea marginata, watereriana,
argentea pendula, Handsworth Silver and argentea
margmata. Pendula is an excellent variety
of pendulous habit, and fructu-luteo has yellow
berries.

The large-leaved Hollies are mostly hybrids
between either the Canary Island I. platyphylla
and 1. Aquifolium, or the latter species and I.
balearica. They are generally very vigorous and
have very broad leaves. Hodginsii or Shepherdii,
maderensis, nobilis, nigrescens, platyphvlla and
Wilsonii are all good kinds to grow.

Among other species are numerous useful kinds.
I. opaca is the American Holly, a useful and showy
tree ; I. crenata is a dwarf, compact kind, with
small leaves, from Japan ; I. cornuta, an oblong-
leaved species, hails from China ; I Pemyi, a
new species from the same country, is a very pretty
kind ; I. Integra is interesting by reason of its
spineless leaves ; while I. dipyrena is a large-growing,
useful species from the Himalaya suitable for the
Southern Counties. W. D.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON
AURICULAS.
Alpines Outdoors.— Although these are easily
among the most charming of all the early-flowermg
plants, it cannot be said that they receive much
attention. Many people, of course, fully appreciate
their beauty and utility ; but the majority do not
do so, if one may judge by the specimens in gardens.
Large, established clumps are handsome, but the
variety must be one that is reasonably good,
though not necessarily new, and a
faulty variety should be grubbed to
give space for its betters. Young
plants should be raised annually from
seeds as well as from cuttings, since
the former are nearly sure to provide
something of quality, provided the
seeds are procured from a source
of the first repute. The plant is
wonderfully accommodating, and will
flourish in practically any position in
the border or the rock garden ; but
where it is imperative that a very hot,
sunny situation has to be selected
fur flowering, it is wise to move the
plant when the blossoming period is
over to a cooler place.

Alpines from Seeds. — Notwith-
standing the fact that the seeds are
most irregular in germinating, and
therefore one has to keep the seed-
pan or box under close observation
for a considerable period, this is an
extremely easy method of raising a
stock, and it is certain that the
\arieties produced will be excellent.
The source of worry with the
.imateur who has not previously sown
seeds invariably lies in the fact that
lie sees the seedlings coming through
in a most patchy way, and promptly
roncludes that the seeds were poor
111 quality. Such is not the ease,,
liowever ; the Primulas as a family
.ire prone to exhibit this tendency.
Often the late seedlings prove to
be the best varieties, and the weakest
must not be discarded for the
as might be permissible in the case of a
Sow so thinly that no thinning will be
required, and to enable the early seedlings to be
removed without disturbing the surrounding
soil which contains seeds at rest or only just
vegetating, and do not miss a single one because
it happens to be on the puny side. The soil should
be light and sandy, and the place may be a cold
greenhouse, cold frame, or, failing either of these
conveniences, beneath a hand-light in the open.

Alpines from Cuttings. — Those who find when
their plants are in bloom that they have one or
two which they particularly desire to perpetuate
in increased numbers will have recourse to propa-
gation by cuttings, which will be produced in due
course. Some varieties will yield more than others,
and the grower must decide the number he wants.
Two and a-half inch pots containing very sandy
loam answer our present purpose, and the cuttings,
which must have a short length of hard stem
attached, should be firmly inserted. Stand the pots
in a cold frame, greenhouse, or under a hand-light,
and immediately they are well rooted, plant out . Old
plants can be divided after flowering if required.

strongest,
Parsnip.

April 12, 1913.

THE GARDEN.

181

Plants in Flower. — We are on the threshold
of the flowering season of the exquisite show
varieties in pots. More strenuous concerted efforts
ought to be made by Auricula-lovers to impress
upon others the charm of these plants, their ease
of culture and the small expense that they entail.
It is regrettable that the most refined of all florists'
flowers should be in a position such as that occupied
by the show Auricula. It is known and worshipped
by the few, whereas it ought to be kno-ivn and
worshipped by the many to do it justice. Some-
thing should be done, and the society maintained
in its honour fought to do it. The plants will
demand more water'now and onwards, and directly
the blossoms have 'passed their best snap o£f the
stem just beneath the truss and leave it to waste
away. The plants must not be exposed to hot sun,
and the atmosphere must be sweet.

Repotting. — Perhaps the most generally satis-
factory time for repotting is immediately after
flowering, though it may be deferred until the late
summer if more convenient. The soil should be
the cleanest that can be procured, sound loam
answering to all the demands made upon it ; but
we will postpone the discussion of this task for a
week or two. F. R.

from other causes, we are on less secure lines
of treatment. One has tried all the stock methods
of cultivation, yet in certain places these all fail.
A common prescription is a half-shaded place in
rich, deeply-dug loam, with a little lime applied
to it. .Another, quite opposed to it, is a sandy loam
in full sun. Still another is to plant in loam,
leaf-soil and sand. Now, all of these fail in certain
gardens, while in others A. fulgens can be cultivated
with little care, save to plant in a border of ordinary
loam.

It would, perhaps, help us were we better
acquainted with the conditions under which
imported tubers have been cultivated. In most
cases we find that these flower very well the first
season, but that they do not bloom nearly so well,
if at all, the following years. It appears to the
writer that very frequently — in most cases, in
fact— this failure in subsequent years is due to a
want of rest, and that in many parts of our kingdom
the tubers are not sufficiently ripened. It does
not do to dogmatise on such questions, but this
is put forward as at least an indication of what
the writer has found with this glowing and most
beautiful scarlet Windflower. Where it does not

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

THE HARDY NYMPH^AS OR
WATER LILIES.

Their Popularity.— Perhaps no flower among
all the British flora is more admired than our
common or wild Water Lily, Nymphaea alba.
It was about the first of all flowers that claimed
my attention nearly sixty years ago. I remember
weli the lovely effect that was made upon some
large sheets of water in a deer park near to my
home, and with most suitable surroundings, too,
such, for instance, as the Bulrush (Scirpus lacustris).
I have also seen other sheets of water covered with
this Water Lily flowering in the greatest pro-
fusion. The flowers are often offered for sale
in the seacoast towns of the Eastern Counties,
the source of supply, no doubt, bemg the Broads.
The true N. alba has a comparatively small flower,
and must not be confounded with N. Candida,
which is more vigorous in every respect. Con-
sidering how very popular these old inhabitants
of our ponds and lakes have ever been, it was no
wonderment to think how the first of the tinted

THE SCARLET WIND-
FLOWER FAILING.

It would be of great service, I think,
were some of the readers of The
Garden to give their experiences of
Anemone fulgens, particularly where
they have cultivated it for a period
of years. It is well known to man>-
who have so grown this flower that
it is, in quite a number of gardens,
a most unsatisfactory plant, inasmuch
as it is not only liable to be lost
through the attacks of some of the
diseases to which Anemones are sub-
ject, but often fails to flower regularly,
and, in consequence, its value is entirely
discoimted.

It appears subject to practically
nearly all of the recognised Anemone
diseases, such as the .\nemone root-
mould (Piasmopara pygmaea Unger),
the Anemone smut (Urocystis Ane-
mones Pers.), Anemone cluster cups
<.4Jcidium punctatum Pers.) and Ane-
mone Periza (Sclerotinia tuberosa
Hedw.). I have rather frequently had
specimens affected with the Anemone
Peziza sent me, and have come across
this in several gardens among A.
iulgens. The most satisfactory
method of dealing with all the
Anemones affected with any of these
diseases is to commit them to the
furnace, with, perhaps, the exception
of those affected with the Anemone
smut, where immediate destruction of all affected
leaves may eventually dispel the disease. The
remedy may be a drastic one, but it is better far to
lose the diseased plants than to have the whole
stock affected by the ravages of these pests.
Where the leaves only are affected, spraying
with Bordeaux mixture or other checks may
be helpful, but the drastic methods are usually
the most effective with such diseases as afflict the
scarlet Windflower.

When we consider, however, the failure of the
plants to grow, or their unwillingness to flower

.\N EFFECTIVE GROUPING OF .\QUATIC PLANTS IN A SURREY GARDEN.

PLANT HARDY WATER LILIES.

NOW IS THE TIME TO

bloom well, it may be necessary to lift the hybrids took on when first imported mto this
tubers when the foliage has withered, and to country. There was, it is true, an impression in
give them a month or two of rest, drying some quarters that these hybrids were not per-
them off carefully and replanting in a moderately I fectly hardy. That doubt has now, I think, been

sunny position. In wet climates the tubers
are hardly ever at complete rest. The question
is of more than passing importance, as no one
who has grown any of the lovely varieties of
A. fulgens is willing to confess to being beaten
in the attempt to secure flowers on this charming
plant.

Dum/ries. S. Arnott.

completely dispelled. We have been steadily
led up to the deeper tints that now obtain in some
of the more recently-introduced hybrids. Now
we have an ample choice from the point of colour
alone, as we have also in diversity o( growth.
Many are the ponds and lakes that are now orna-
mented with these lovely flowers, and that to
great advantage beyond a doubt. They look

182

THE GAKDEN.

[April 12, 1913

weJl when seen at a distance, and even more so
when viewed from rising ground, such, for instance,
as at the Wisley Gardens of the Royal Horticul-
tural Society, also at Gravetye Manor, Mr. William
Robinson's cotmtry seat in Sussex. To inspect
them more closely and to fully appreciate their
individual beauty and distinct characteristics,
a closer inspection needs to be made. Then we
can fully realise how lovely some of the later
hybrids are.

Their Utility. — Many sheets of water, both
large and small, look well without any super-
abundance of aquatic growth. It is, however,
around the margins and in cosy nooks of the larger
surfaces of water that the Nymphseas have a good
effect. Smaller sheets of water may, in some
measure, have a greater quantity of these plants,
so as to produce a distinct effect. For these pur-
poses there is now an abundant choice, both in
various forms of growth and in the diversity of I

this cannot be provided, it is better to thin out
the crowns. This should be done without any
hesitation, for two or three good crowns are very
much better than twice the number in the same
space. For the strongest growers 6 feet in depth
of water is none too much for them. I have
seen such as N. Marhacea cbromateUa doing well
in as much as i8 feet of water, but I do not recom-
mend planting at that depth. This variety
is very often seen late in the season to be over-
crowded. When such is the case, it points to a
need of division. The flowers are often smothered
by the leaf-growth also when the latter is so dense ;
this in no sense is desirable. Vigorous growth is
also fostered and encouraged when the mud is too
deep ; this fact must also be contemplated when
the planting is being done. I knew an instance
once where there was an escape of sewage into a
lake ; here the growth was luxurious almost
beyond description.

PRIMULA FORTUNE!, A BEAUTIFUL EARLY-FLOWERING PRIMROSE FOR THE ROCK GARDEN

colours. Some, too, are suitable for large fountains,
others are better even when grown in small basins
of water, while it is also possible to grow them
in large, shallow tubs with very good results.
In whatever way they are grown they add to the
attractiveness of the garden, and that, too, at a
season when the garden is most frequented and
more time spent therein. Small ponds and shallow
pools are at times, in a measure, unsightly by reason
of a scum upon the surface of the water. Where
this happens to be the case, some Water Lilies
should be planted. These, it is true, may not
altogether dispel the bad effect produced, but
they will greatly assist in doing so.

Their Freedom of Growth. — Many of the
hybrids raised by M. Latour-Marliac are remark-
able for their vigorous growth. For these more
room is needed than is often allotted to them.
When it is seen that the leaves are so dense as to
force themselves out of the water, it is indicative
that a greater depth is necessary for them. If

On the other hand, there are several of these
hybrids that are of quite moderate growth, yet
produce both leaves and flowers of large size.
When I note that any particular variety possesses
long petioles (or leaf-stalks), I take it as an indica-
tion that it will thrive better in deeper water. What
I do not like to see is a plant that has a tendency
to produce a multitude of small leaves, which
lie alm:)st upon each other at times, and with but
few flowers. A few years ago this appeared to be a
weakness of a few of the hybrids. I have not noted
it to such an extent during the past two or three
years. When it does occur, it is advisable to break
up the plant into single crowns where it is possible
to do so. This should be done in May, if it be
possible, and with a sharp knife, aiming at
a few roots to each division. These wUl almost
invariably establish themselves during the
coming summer. Some there are that flower
so profusely, almost at every leaf, and do not
in consequence make any back breaks. It is

rather difficult to propagate such. We had
such a case once in N. Laydekeri rosea, which
never made a break. This plant ultimately
died, but not before we had obtained one
seedling from it. ..^

Their Value in the Water Garden.— Water

Lilies play an important part now in the effective
grouping of water plants,combined with sub-aquatics
and plants that associate with both and which may
be fairly termed water-side plants. Taking the
illustration that accompanies this article (page i8i)
as an example, one may note how well all the
subjects comprised therein blend with one another.
Here may be noted such water plants as the
Arrowhead (Sagittaria species), the Water Sedge
(Cyperus longus), and of sub - aquatics such
as the Astilbes in variety. Upon firmer ground
may be noted both Bamboos and Miscanthus,
as well as the moisture-loving Saxifrage (S.
peltata), the giant Califomian species. Such a
grouping as this is most effective,
the trees in the distance adding
to the general attractiveness. In
the immediate foreground one Water
Ldy gives indication of needing
either deeper water or division.
Allusion to the treatment of such
will be noted further on.^ Each of
the clumps of Lilies is planted at
a good distance apart. This is as
It should be. When possible, it is
most advisable to plant for colour
i-ffect. By selecting those that can
he relied upon to flower freely,
this can be done. It is possible
to so arrange such a water garden
.IS this for distant effect, but person-
lUy I should favour such an arrange-
ment as would produce a surprise.
In the illustration it may be noted
that no large trees overhang the
water. This is as it should be, as
these are not, by reason of the
shade, at all favourable to healthy
growth. Caltha polypetala (the new
Kingcup) would add much to the
colour effect, while both Menyan-
Ihes trifoliata (the Bog Bean) and
Butomus umbellatus (the Flowering
Rush) would, if not so showy, add
to the attractiveness in their season.
For growing in the water abso-
lutely, Richardia aethiopica is most
valuable in such groupings as this.
It will continue in flower for a long period in the
summer season. James Hudson, V.M.H,

Gunnersbury House Gardens, Acton.
{To be continued.)

PRIMULA FORTUNEI.

This dainty Primrose bears a considerable resem-
blance to P. frondosa, and is of about the same size.
Its flowers, however, are rather less rosy, tending
more to lUac, and when poised upon the intensely
white, farina-covered stalks, look extremely dainty.
Unlike P. frondosa, the plant does not form such
close resting buds ; indeed, dm"ing mild winters
it continues to grow the whole time, and is one of
my earliest Primulas to open its attractive blossoms.
It is, 1 believe, not quite hardy, and should be
protected during cold periods, or grown in a pan,
and plunged out during the milder weather. Loam,
grit and leaf-mould make a compost which appears
to suit this Primula excellently, while it seems to

April 12, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

183

favour a copious supply of moisture, especially
during the growing season. When each plant sub-
divides into several crowns, it may be split up,
thereby readily increasing one's stock, while pieces
jof sandstone partially buried about its roots
greatly modify the evaporation of moisture, in
addition to enhancing the appearance of the
clump. Reginald A. Malby.

THE

AN

ROSE GARDEN.

EA«LY-FLOWERING PILLAR
ROSE.

ROSE UNA is one of the first of the
pUlar Roses to greet us, which it
does with large and
practically semi-
double blooms of a
creamy white shade
that passes to a clearer white
when fully open. In this gar-
den— Ken View, Highgate — it has
been grown for several years,
though rather badly given to
attacks of mildew in the bud
stage ; yet one is bound to
admire and speak well of it
because of the free manner in
which the large flowers are pro-
duced. It is rather sparse with
us in sending up new growths
from the bottom ; they more
often come halfway or more up
the existing rods, which makes
the September pruning a work
of just thinning the head part
rather than, as is mostly the case
with climbers, a clearing away
of complete stems from the base.
However, it is rather a good thing
that Una does not want too
nmch handling, for it has, I
should think, about the worst
thorns of all Roses. C. T.

that Wakeley's Hop Manure is equally as suitable
for the majority of soils as the best prepared stable
manures ; and if one must piurchase, this, aided
by the sprinkling of bone-meal, will afford the
cleanest and least objectionable mulch of any that ;CLARKIAS FOR GARDEN AND

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATB 1469.

I Jim acquainted with.

If one must plant, or even fill up a few gaps thus
late in the season, it will be well to give more
attention to firmer soil around the roots, whether
the plants be from the open ground or from pots Of
course, before any mulching is done, one should take
good care to eliminate any suckers from the stocks
the Roses may be worked upon. If this is being done
at the time of pruning, on no account be tempted

GREENHOUSE.

MONG hardy annuals there are few more
beautiful and useful than the varie-
ties of Clarkia elegans, of which there
are now some particularly good colours
obtainable. For sowing in the open
garden during April where the plants

are intended to flower these Clarkias are ideal.

their tall yet graceful habit and the delicately-

A

SEASONABLE WORK

AMONG THE ROSES.

.\PART from the most important
work of pruning our Roses, there
is much to be done during this
month whenever the w'eather per-
mits. Mulchings applied now, or
immediately after the prunings
are collected, will be a great
support to the plants all through
the coming season. Before mulch-
ing I would prefer to sUghtly
move the surface soil, and if a
sprinkling of bone-meal can be
.idded just before turning this
over, there are few cases where
It will not be beneficial. One
may be sure of the fertilising juices from these
spring mulchings being of use, for the active
roots of Roses will be ready to take them up
at once. On the other hand, I have Uttle
donbt that a good proportion ot these are lost
by winter percolation taking it quite beyond the
roots while in no condition to absorb or make
use of the nourishment.

The nature of these mulches must be largely
a matter of convenience, with a little regard to the
natural constituents of the soil. But I may say

to use a sharp-edged knife. Keep an older 1 poised flowers creating bright and pleasing effects

and rougher-edged one speci.illy for this purpose, in mixed borders, large beds, or, indeed, in almost

zny position that is not densely
shaded by overhanging trees. In
common with other hardy annuals,
it is essential that the seed be
sown very thinly, and when the
seedlings are well up they must
be thinned to 9 inches or
12 inches apart to allow the
plants to develop their natural
branching habit. As cut flowers
these Clarkias are exceedingly
pretty, possessing the merit of
lasting well and lending them-
selves to artistic arrangement,
this latter feature being well
shown in the accompanying
coloured plate.

Until a few years ago varieties
of Clarkia elegans were regarded
solely as flowers for the outdoor
garden ; but thanks to the beau-'
tiful exhibits that have been
staged by Messrs. Sutton and
Sons at the Royal Horticul-
tural Society's Temple Shows and
at the International Show at
Chelsea last year, a great impetus
has been given to their cultivation
in pots. Possibly this impetus
has been aided also by the in-
troduction of several new and
charming colours, the latest and
most beautiful of which is Sutton's
Scarlet Beauty, shown in the
accompanying coloured plate,
which has been prepared from
a coloiu: photograph kindly placed
at our disposal by Messrs. Sutton
and Sons.

For early spring decoration cf
the conservatory nothing is more
telling than well-grown plants of
this and several other varieties.
For this purpose the seeds should
be sown in September and the
seedhngs grown under quite cold
treatment, just preservmg the
plants from frost and keepmg

Even on March 7 I f"und some green fly upcm the them as near the glass as possible to encourage

very precocious young growths in sheltered corners sturdy growth. The seedlings should be potted

upon walls and fences. Here, in the South, we on and pinched back two or three times to ensvu-e

have scarcely had any real check to many growths

in warm quarters, and I would advise the use of

the syringe freely wlierever fly is visible. If one

does not, he will simply be harbouring a healthy

colony of enemies, which will assuredly infest the

whole of the young Rose growths as soon as the

first real spring days put m an appearance.
Sussex. A. P.

ROSE UNA, A BEAUTIFUL SEMI-DOUBLE VARIETY, GROWING ON A

PILLAR.

nice bushy plants. Scarlet Beauty is perhaps
the brightest colourmg of all, and with winter
pot culture the colour comes a beautiful rich
salmon pink, resembling the colour of Sweet Pea
Earl Spencer. Double Delicate Pink, Double
Salmon, Double White and Furefly (a bright rose
crimson) are also well worthy of cultivation, both
in pots and in the open border.

184

THE GARDEN.

[April 12, 1913.

DAFFODIL NOTES.

The Present Season.— The present is a " How-
are things looking with you ? " season. The

ordinary salutation is forgotten, and hands are

clasped with the anxious accompaniment of the

above formula. Each one hopes for the cold

comfort of being told that his neighbour is like

himself, for, if the truth must be told, 1913 is

not a vintage year. Frosts, merodons and slugs

have done or are doing their best to make the

Nvretched Daffodil as uncomfortable as possible.

Taken as a whole, the blooms in the Royal

Horticultural Society's Hall

<Mi April I did not look up to

the mark. They had that

peculiar appearance which always

■seems to tell me that they have

been short of a top - coat on

more than one occasion. In

our fickle climate Jack Frost is

often in evidence. An extra

early season like the present only

makes his visits more apparent,

that is all. The merodon is an

even more imwelcome visitor.

How to combat it is a serious

question. When there are

ominous gaps in our serried

ranks, let us lose no time in

getting our nets ready. With

the advent of warmer weather

he is sure to be seen. He must

then be caught. He does not,

however, accomit for all. Some

blanks must be credited to the

ul>iquitous slug. Slugs have had

a good time lately, and in stiff

soils they have been especially

active among the Daffodils. M>-

head - gardener has lately been

investigating some failures, and

he frequently found the bulb

quite sound, but minus roots
and plus some fat slugs. Among
others who talked to me at

the show was Mr. Denison of

Henley-on-Thames, who has a
garden of stiff, clayey soil. He

bemoaned the loss of his Poetaz
and his Lucifer, owing to the
long-continued waterlogged con-
dition of his ground, and he
then went on to say that he
had been very much bothered
with slugs, and that when he
■dug down to some of the bulbs
he often found slugs enjoying a
nice meal. He fancied that they
ate the roots. His experience and my own are so
■similar, and the coincidence of his mentionmg
It to me when he did struck me so much, that
r have inserted it here as a possible solution
of other people's troubles.

A Vexed Question. — There were several varieties
up for award before the committee, but only one
gained the coveted distinction ; that was White
Emperor, a beautiful flat flower of ivory white and
the palest primrose. While there was a general
■consensus of opinion in favour of the award, there
was a sharp cleavage between members as to
what it should be labelled. Here are the facts.
By breeding and parentage the varietv is an Ajax or
trumpet, but by the Royal Horticultural Society's

measurement classification of 1910 it is an un-
doubted giant Leedsii, inasmuch as the segments
are from one-eighth of an inch to a quarter
of an inch longer than the trumpet ; again,
as you see it sideways, it looks like a trumpet ;
but if you stand straight opposite it, it has
a decided Leedsii appearance. The amount
of interest aroused was very great. One was
continually being asked, " Is it decided ? " ; or,
as a witty member of the Narcissus committee
put it, ■' When is a trumpet not a trumpet ? " the
answer being, " On the first of April ! " It has been
suggested that it is on the border-line. It might be,
if a trumpet was a mile long, but when a very big

THE NEW NARCISSUS WHITE EMPEROR. IS IT A TRUMPET OR A
GIANT LEEDSII VARIETY ?

one is only i| inches, surely one-eighth of an inch
or three-sixteenths of an inch is a very appreciable
quantity. One consolation that the owners will
have will be that this divergence of opinion is an
uncommonly good advertisement or send-ol? as it
begins its market life. Some of its judges may be
April fools, but its purchasers were not — at least,
I for one do not think so. The illustration of this
famous flower which is figured on this page gives
a side view of it and shows its trumpet appearance.

Generalisms on the Best Flowers.— Again

seedlings u-ere in tne ascendant. Never before has
Mr. v. Herbert Chapman staged such an exhibit.
It was almost entirely composed of his own home-
made flowers, .\mong others, he had six magnificent

golden trumpets — lovely things — every one oi
which changed hands before the day was 'over.
Haydon's mantle seems to have fallen upon Chap-
man. Lissadell had far and away the largest
exhibition of their own seedlings that I have ever
seen. There were some nice things among them,
but on the whole they would not set the Thames
on fire. I am, however, pretty sure that this was
only a feeler. There are more at home. Mr.
Watts had a goodly array of novelties, aU made in
Wales, and again he requisitioned his ancestor's
dictionary. He is very good about it at present,
and does not often go beyond two syllables ; but
what will it be like when these are used up and,
it may be, in addition to his own
he has Anglesey Bulb Farm
seedlings to christen ! I saw a
real beauty from Colonel Cotton
in the Editor's sanctum the
other day. It had quite a nice
name — Apricot Gem, I think,
or somethmg of that sort ; but
just suppose he began naming
them after the parish in which he
lives — Llanfair &c., &c., &c. (these
etceteras refer to the word which
includes a whole tale about a
well before it is finished). Then
there was an interesting Uttlc
collection from Mrs. R. O. Back-
house of Hereford. The blooms
were in an unfortunate position,
right against the light, and were not
seen at their best in consequence
Two cups, one a triandrus seedling
and the other a red-edged, had
curiously thickened margins, of
the same sort of look that the
excrescences on the trumpets of
many frilled white have. In
Engleheart's fine display, perhaps
the feature above all others was
the size of his largest giant
Leedsii. Super-Giants would not
be a bad name for them. Among
Wilson's the wonderful red cups
stood out ; what a pity that the
colour is so fleeting ! In my
next notes 1 hope to describe
in some detafl about a score of
the newer ones at this show
which took my fancy, and which
are not much, if they are at all,
known.

Andrew KingsmilL — It was a
sad duty that fell to Mr. War-
render when he had to announce
the death of the friend who had
proposed him as member of the
committee. We all feel his loss.
His connection with the Daffodil goes back to
earlier days than the appearance of that epoch-
marking plate of Seagull and Albatross in The
Garden. He was a member of the celebrated
syndicate that quietly absorbed all the best of
the early Engleheart productions, beautiful things
that are only now becoming common. His garden
was largely of the semi-wild order, and here, under
the partial shade of trees, he established fine colonies
of the cheaper and better-known kinds. A favourite
both of Mrs. KingsmUl and himself was the old
small incomparabUis John Bull. It is much in
the style of Autocrat. I will always connect him
with it. Its name was typical of the man in more
ways than one. Joseph Jacob.

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April 12, 1913.J

THE GAKDEN.

185

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO PROPAGATE SWEET VIOLETS.

ExpERi cultivators pay much attentiuu to the
propagation of new stock, as they know quite
well that the finesi crops of flowers will result

quarters. Fig 4 shows a runner with a hard
crown producing sma'J flowers and more runners,

It they possess a few roots, carefully lift and replant down runners. Old plants may be divided and
them in a prepared border facing east, west or I the separate parts planted out. but it is not the
even north, putting them in i, inches apart each best way to mcrease the stock, as much strength
way. They will socn form a mass of routs and be of plant is required, and this can only be obtained
in good condition for planting in their siunmer from the robust suckers.

I.— DIAGRAM SHOWING HOW VIOLETS PRODUCE SUCKERS AXD
MAY BE USED FOR PROPAGATION.

RUNNERS, WHICH

Planting the Violets in Open Borders.— in

the first place it is necessary to deeply dig the soil
and to put in some rotted manure. If the soil
is naturally light, it must be well enriched, less
manure being required where a heavier loam
obtains. The latter, well prepared, is the best
for Violets. Do not use fresh, strawy manure in
any case, but that which is well rotted. A single
row of plants may be put out between rows o(
Peas in the ve.getable garden, as shown at Fig. 8 :
A, rows of Peas ; b, one row of Violets. Fip. 9
shows how to put out plants in a border facing the
west, a good summer position for them. The large-
leaved varieties, such as Princess of Wales, require
a space of 18 inches between the rows and 16 inches
from plant to plant in the rows. The smaller-
leaved varieties may be planted 4 inches closer
each way. It is very important that the surface
soil be kept moistened at first to get the plants
established, and afterwards it should be loosened
with the Dutch hoe every week. Water when
necessary and feed with nitrate of potash, loz.
dissolved in three gallons of water, once fortnightly
from the middle of June to the end of July The
small runners, as shown in Fig 10, must be pinched
off while quite small. Plants treated in this way
will be in excellent condition for lifting and
planting in frames about September, to provide
flowers during the winter months. It is useless
putting weak, poorly-grown plants into frames
a- they can never give really satisfactory results.
It is hoped to deal with the work of preparing
the soil and transplanting the Violets just before
the proper time for doing so. In the mean-
time every effort should be made, on the lines
indicated above, to get as good plants as posible
for the purpose.

Varieties. — Princess ot Wales. De Parm^,

I. a France and

Fig. 7 shows a peg for fastening I wellsiana arc all good.

if the young plants are carefully reared. A as shown at Fig. 5 — 5. Of coiu'se, it is absolutely
Violet plant will grow in almost any kind of necessary to cut off these late runners as soon
soil, but it will not bear many fine flowers if as they are large enough to handle, or they will
badly treated. rob the young plant of much nourishment. The

Runners and Suckers. — Both grow from the other sketch, Fig. 6, shows the sucker growing
old or parent plant ; but the former are borne with a free centre and producing large flowers,
on long stems, which spread out over the surface All blooms, however, must be pinched off regularly,
ot the soil, and the latter grow up through the soil, as the main object is to get large plants for autumn,
in some instances close to the old plant, and many winter and spring flowering. The propagation

of them grow from the base of the latter. Now, i of the plants is the same both in frames and in 1 Marie Louise. John Raddenbury
the best of the two kinds is the sucker, because the open border
it bears larger flowers and more continuously
than the one on the rimner. The latter persists
in producing more runners, and consequently
it does not attain to a large size itself and the
flowers are small. The suckers are. therefore,
the best, and though they may not be as plentiful
as the runners, they should be secured in preference
to them. Fig. i shows the old or parent plant.
Fig. 2 the runner, and Fig. 3 the sucker. The
runners may be layered just the same as Straw-
berries, by pegging them down, or by merely
burying the stem and base of the young plant
in some prepared compost. The suckers must,
liowever, be more carefully treated. First clear
away some of the old soil from around them
and the base ot the old plant generally. Replace
the soil with some sifted leaf-soil, sand and a smal'
quantity of heavier loam, well mixed. Press the
new compost fairly firmly round the suckers
and keep it in a moist state. In a very short time
new roots will have formed, and then the rooted
suckers can be detached from the old plants.
In cases where the suckers are found growing up
through the soil, they must be examined, and

G. G

A

2.— SHOWING HOW THE YOUNG VIOLETS SHOULD BE PLANTED IN THE OPEN.

186

THE GAllDEN.

[April 12, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Pentstemons. — Young plants propagated from
cuttings in the autumn and wintered in cold frames
should" now be in hardy enough condition to warrant
their being planted out in vacant spaces in the
borders. Where planted in the herbaceous borders
it is best to make a nice clump of from three to a
dozen plants.

Antirrhinums raised in the autumn either from
seeds or cuttings may be treated in the same manner,
while seedlings recently raised in heat should be
pricked out 2 inches or ^ inches apart in boxes,
or in the cold frames from which the others are
taken.

Dahlias. — Cuttings should be potted off as soon
as nicely rooted, keeping them in a little heat
till established, when cooler treatment should be
afforded them, potting them on into .|J-inch or
6-inch pots as they require it. This extra potting
is quite necessary if good plants and early bloom
arc required. Early planting out is often fatal,
and plants st.arved in small pots are very slow in
getting away after being planted out. Stock plants
may be put out in a cold frame where they can
have plenty of hgbt and air, with, of course, the
necessary protection in case of frost.

Chrysanthemums. — Border varieties, as soon
as well rooted ni j-inch pots, should be grown as
hardily as possible. On mild nights the lights
may be left off altogether, thus preparing them
for the planting out, which should be done quite
early in May.

Flower-Beds. — Many of the Narcissi planted
in the beds will be going out of flower, and the
flower-heads should be removed at once. Double
Tulips, which are always rather late in opening,
may require a stake to prevent them being damaged
bv wind and rain ; but the tie must be loose, or
the heads will break off as the flower-stems grow.

Plants Under Glass.

Peppers. — These are excellent pot plants , in
fart, many of them make really good decorative
subjects for the autumn months, a few good ones
being Coral Gem Bouquet, Chameleon, Cerise,
Cayenne, Old Red ChiU and Red Cluster; while
of the larger varieties that may be mentioned
are Ruby King, Chinese Giant, Giant Red, Giant
Yellow Nocera, Elephant's Trunk, Early Yellow
and American Bullnose. Seeds should be sown
in heat, potting off singly into pots as soon as large
enough to handle and growing on in a heated pit.

Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — A batch of

cuttings should now be put in, and if the pots are
plunged in a brisk bottom-heat, rooting should
not take long. Cuttings taken quite from the base
of the old stools usually make the best plants,
though many people rely on leaf-cuttings ; but 1
have not found them so generally reliable as the
first mentioned.

Poinsettias. — Rested stools may now be cut
fairlv hard back and introduced into a warm,
moist house to provide a batch of cuttings for
striking during Mav, reserving a portion of the
stock for later batches-

Euphorbia jacquiniflora may also be started
soon, but these plants do not care for severe cutting
back, and I prefer to leave these about a foot
long, when stronger and more easily-rooted cuttings
are likely to be emitted.

The Kitchen Garden.

Peas. — If properly h.irdened off, Peas raised
in pots, boxes, or turves should now be planted out,
choosing a day when the weather conditions are
suitable. The soil should be broken up as finely as
possible, thus ensuring the plants getting a good
start, and if small stakes are put to them imme-
diately after planting, they will afford a iittle
protection. Dressings of soot also may be necessary
to keep away slugs.

Broad Beans. — These also should be planted
out at once, and if they have attained a fair height,
a small stake and a tie may be required by each
plant.

Cauliflowers are rather more tender than Peas
and Beans, and a little protection should be provided
when planting out. If a fairly deep and broad drill

is taken out and the plants put out in the middle,
it will protect them a little. The soil, if pulled
in as the plants attain size, will keep them steady ;
also a small branch of Laurel placed over each
plant will protect it in case of sharp frost.

Parsley. — Seedlings raised in a box or frame
may now be pricked out in the open ground, and
in cold soil such a system is often better than sowing
early in the open ground.

Fruits Under Glass.

Tomatoes.— Plants setting their fruit should
be fertilised with a rabbit's tail to ensure a good
set, this being especially necessary when the house
is not entirely devoted to the Tomatoes. In such
a case the atmosphere of the house may not be all
that is desired. Plants that are fruiting in small
pots must not be neglected as regards manure,
so that as soon as a truss or two are set it is as well
to give a little top-dressing and so keep up the
vigour of the plant, or weak trusses will result.
Successional batches must be potted on or planted
out as they require it, making a sowing during
the next week or two to provide a good batch
for early autumn fruiting.

Cucumbers that are fruiting also require liberal
treatment in respect to manure and water, and where
only one or two plants .are grown, a little thinning
of the fruit may be necessary to regulate the supply.
The shoots also may require thinning, and where
space is limited may be stopped at every second
leaf. As often as roots appear .at all thickly on
the surface of the soil, top-dress with horse-
manure and loam, about half and half.

Hardy Fruit.

Peach Trees on Walls uUl now have set their
fruit — at least, where they have been sufficiently
protected — and even ni>w it is wise to allow a double
thickness of old fish-netting to hang in front of
the trees to protect them from the cold winds.
Wherever the leaf blister appears, all the diseased
leaves should be picked off and burnt and the trees
given a good spraying over with sulphide of potas-
sium at the rate of loz. to three gallons of water.
Though this may not actually prove a cure, it
may prevent it spreading.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wobit.ru Place Gardcus, Addleslone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Planting Sweet Peas. — Weather and the con-
dition of the ground permitting, this operation
should be carried through at an early date, ^f
not already attended to, the clumps or lines along
which the .Sweet Peas are to be planted should
have a dressing of pigeon or fowl manure, or one
of soot and superphosphate, which should be forked
in a few days prior to planting. If the plants have
been raised in boxes, they should be carefully
lifted and planted with a trowel i loot apart if
the highest results are to be obtained ; but for
general decorative work 6 inches apart is quite
sufficient.

Montbretias in Pots. — .Many of the Mont-

bretias are worth more trouble than is often taken
with tbem. We pursue the following system here,
with highly satisfactory results : When lifting the
bulbs in the autumn the clumps are broken up,
generally into halves. We then pot them up
into fi-inch pots. They are wintered u\ a cold
frame, and about the middle of March are
stood outside in some sheltered spot. .\bout
this date they are planted, with the balls intact,
either in masses or lines.

Sweet Violets. — Runners — rooted if possible--
should now be taken from the plants in frames
and planted i foot apart in a plot which has
been specially prepared for them. Violets require
liberal cultivation, with cool conditions.

Plants Under Glass.

Cannas. — If started in small pots last month,
these will now be ready for a shift, and as they are
vigorous growers, they may at once be transferred
to their flowering pots. Cannas delight in a rather
porous, rich soil, and as they have fleshy roots,
they should be potted rather loosely.

Stopping Chrysanthemums. — .All the classes

of Chrysanthemums require stopping more or less.
Stopping in the big-flowered section has been reduced
to a fine art and cannot be dealt with in a small
space. Those who have not learned the art should
study the directions given in such a price-list as
that of Messrs. Wells, Limited, Merstham. Bush
plants should be stopped when about 6 inches high,
stopping the freer-growing varieties again when the
plants have made about another six inches of
growth.

Strobilanthes dyerianus.— To see this fine
foliage plant to advantage it must be grown
liberally in a brisk temperature, and a^ its bright
colouring fades with age, successional batches of
cuttings should be struck.

Fruits Under Glass.

Peaches. — The tying in of the shoots must be
attended to as growth advances. The young
shoots can often be tied alongside the older bare
ones ; but in any case they should be as evenly
distributed as possible, special care being taken
to fully expose to the light the succession shoots
at the bases of the bearing ones.

Figs. — In early houses where the fruit is swelling,
the temperature should be raised somewhat, the
atmospheric moisture being increased in propor-
tion. .As the fruit begins to ripen, however, the
air should be kept in a drier condition.

Melons. — If any of the plants show signs of
canker at the neck, the affected part should have a
little dry powdered lime or powdered charcoal
applied to it. If, however, t.he plants were slightly
raised above the general level at planting-time
and ventilation has been carefully attended to,
there is seldom any trouble with canker.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Grafts. — If the weather continues dry, grafts
should be examined ; and if found to be too dry,
a little damp moss should be tied round them
and sprayed every few days till growth takes place
or rain occurs.

Loganberries. — This useful fruit is now throwing
up young shoots freely, and all superfluous ones
should be thinned out. The number to be left
must be determined by the amount of sp.ace to
be covered.

The Shrubbery.

Evergreens may still be planted, but the work
should be completed as soon as possible. If dry
conditions obtain, the newly-planted stock ought
to be watered at the roots and be sprayed overhead
in the afternoon.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Amelanchier canadensis. — The Snowy MespUus
is one of our most floriferous and most beautiful
ornamental trees, and deserves to be more widely
cultivated. Its only defect is its slowness of
growth. It does best in bush form or as a
standard grafted on the common Hawthorn.

The Kitchen Garden.

Kidney Beans. — .A sowing of an early variety,
such as Ne Plus Ultra, should now be made on a
south border in rows 21 inches apart, with 6 inches
between the seeds. If the seeds are steeped in
tepid water for twelve hours pre\nous to sowing,
germination will be accelerated.

Asparagus. — -The beds should have a dressing
of rotted manure forked into them. Seed may
uow be sown and plantations m.ade. The latter
operation must be carried through with great care,
as the plants suffer very much if the roots are
exposed to the air for any length of time.

Beetroot. — -This useful vegetable may be sown
during the next week on ground that has been
deeply worked and has had no rank manure applied
to it. The drills should be about eighteen inches
apart. There are many varieties to choose from,
but I can thoroughly recommend Goldie's Exhi-
bition and Frisby's Excelsior.

Spring-Sown Onions. — Those raised under glass
may now be planted out according to the directions
given last week for the autumn-sown crop. Of
course, where extra large bulbs are desired, ample
space must be allowed for their development, a
square foot not being too much for each bulb.

Broad Beans. — .\nother planting should now
be got in for autumn supply.

Chari.es Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

April 12, igi3-]

THE GARDEN.

187

THE FIFTY BEST ALPINES. NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

TH E lists of choice alpiius which
appeared in The Garden for March i
and March 15, from Mr. Amott and
Mr. Farrer, have been exceedingly
interesting to all lovers of these choice
little gems. .Although I have nothing
like the extensive experience of your two well-
known and able correspondents, yet " fools will
enter where angels fear to tread," and at the risk
of being classed among the former I now enclose a
list of what I consider to be the bast fifty. In this
list are included several commoner sorts which seem
to be ignored by the more experienced growers ;
but although common and easily grown, they
are none the less beautiful. The Gold Dust
(,\lyssum saxatile compactum) and the Crimson
Thyme (Thymus Serpyllum coccineum) are both
unique in their respective colours, which, when
seen in a mass, are perfectly dazzling in the
sunshine.

I found curtailing the list to fifty a more difficult
matter than e.\tending it to one hundred would
have been, many beautiful and useful plants
having had to be eliminated. This difficulty would
have been considerably increased if shrubby plants
and bulbs had been included. Perhaps at a future
date lists of both of these beautiful and indis-
pensable plants for rockeries might be given
[Yes. — Ed.], as I have no doubt such would prove
as interesting and helpful as the lists of alpines have
been.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Douglasia laevigata. — .\ pretty and rare plant
from the .\lps of Oregon, closely allied to Androsace.
The entire plant is not more than ij inches high,
of close-tuftcd habit, after the manner of a free-
growing Androsace carnea, above which the rosy
red flowers appear in clusters. The certificated
example was shown in a pot 5 inches in diameter,
which it nearly filled. Few of the hardy plant
specialists had seen this gem in such condition
before. From Mr. Reginald Prichard. West Moors,
Wimborne, Dorset.

Carnation Mrs. Wilfred Gott. — A pure white-
flowering variety belonging to the Perpetual-
flowering Malmaison section, and an acquisition
to boot. Plants in pots were shown demonstrating
great freedom of flowering and an entire absence
of calyx splitting. The plants, although growing
in small pots, showed exceptional vigour, the stiS,
erect stems carrying the handsome flowers without
support. One of the best attributes of the new-
comer is its powerful Clove-like fragrance, a quality
which cannot fail to make it popular with all.
From Messrs. William Cutbush and Sons,
Higligate, N.

Primula viscosa Othello. — A beautiful and
showy variety, said to have resulted from the
crossing of Auricula Innocence and a selected
variety of Primula viscosa. Except for the
increased vigour of the above, there is no external
evidence of the influence of such a cross, the best

Name.

Height.
Inches.

Achillea argentea 4

Androsace Chumbyi

Areaaria balearica

A. montana

Alyssum saxatile compactum

Aubrietia Leichtlinii

A. Dr. .Mules

Campanula muralis

C. puUoides

Cfieirauthus miitabllis

Cortusa villosa. . .
Diantluis alpinus.

D. neglectus

3

Aspi'ct.

Sunny

Partial sun ,

Shady

Sun

.S'oi7.

Coloui .

Fiowerim
Period.

Means of
Propagation.

Loam

White ....

Summer

Division

Peaty

Pink

,, ....

Loam

White ....

• . ....

Seed or division

^,

Earlv spring. .

Division

^^

Golden v'lrw

Sprints

Seed or cutting

Sandy loam . .

Kosy carmine
Purple

Sprinu'

Cuttings

....

Blue purple

July and Aug.

Division

>•

iJark blue . .

Summer

ij

I^amand liino-

Ituir and

Early summer

stone

purple

Loam

Dark red . .

Summer

Seeds

Loam and limr-

Kosy crims'n

,.

Dodecatlieon media 12

Erigeron philadelphicus 10

Erinus alpinus 3

Gentiana acaulis 4

Geranium argeuteum 6

Helinntheniums 10

Hepatica angulosa 3

Heucliera sanuuinea splendens 15

Hutrhinsia alpina 3

Hypericum reptan^; 4

Iberis senipervirens Little Gem 4

Lithospcrmum prostratum 1

Heavenly Blue

[iychnis Viscaria splendens 10

plena
Meconopsis cambrica ft. -pi

Sun or !?hade

Sun ..".

Sun or ^hade

Sun Li

stone
Loam and lime-
stone

Shade Loam and peat

Sun Loam

y, Loam and lime

Half shade .. Stiff loam ....

Sun Ordinary .soil . .

, Sandy loam . .

Shade Light loam

Sun Loam Scarlet

White

Deep rose . . ,,

Rose May and June

Kosy pink. . Summer ....

Light purple Sprin;:

Blue ,,

Blush Summer

Various

rtich blue .

1-

S^erteusia virginica Vl

G

15
6
6
4
i

e

4

Onosma tauricum

Phlo^i canadensis lapfiamii

P. ovata

P. subulata Nel«onii

PotentiUa Tonguei

Primuli marj^inata

P cockburniana

P nivali.-

ilamondia pyrenaica 4

RanuQCuliis araplexicaulis. ... 12

Sanguinaria canadensis 6

Saxifraga pyramidaUs 18

S. Wallace! 6

S. burseriana 3

Silene alpestris 4

S. Schafta 6

Thymus Serpvllum coccineum 3
Trillium grandiflorum 9

Partial shade

Sun

Sun or shade
Semi- shade. .
Sun

Serai-shade . . Moist loam

Shade Peaty soil .

Partial shade Loam White

,, Sandy loam

Sun

Golden yelTw

White

Blue

Kosy red . .

Orange
Pale i)lue . .
Pale yellow
Pale "blue . .
Deep rose . .
Snow white
Orange red
Purple ....
Orange scarl't
White ....
Lilac blue

Early spring. .
June to Aug
Summer ....

Earlv summer
Summer ....

Early summer

Summer ....
Early spring. .

Early summer

Division

Seed

Cuttings

Divisioli

Seeds

Division

Cuttings

Seeds

Seed or lUvi'^ion

Cuttincs

Division

Seeds

Division

Seed or division

Division

Gritty soil .
Loam

Sandy loam

June and July
Summer

Offsets
Cuttings

Tunica Saxifra^ia

0

Rosy purple

,, ,, . . Bright red. .

Shade Leaf-mould and White t o

loam rose

Sun or shade Loam Pale pink . .

Marcli Division

May to July Seed or division

Late summer
Summer ....
Spring

Seed
Di'-ision

Veronica pio?trata *

Vinla gracilis 4

Vittadenia trilobata S

Ochilview, Bridge of Earn,

Sun

Semi-shade..
Sun

Summer and Seed
autumn

Blue Summer .... Cutting.-

Violet blue ,, ....

White and March to
rose October

William Little.

attributes of the Primula being seen in an enhanced
decree. The colour is rosy red and very effective
The plant is very free-flowering.

Primula viscosa Jean Douglas. — This charming
alpine Primula resulted from the crossing of P.
viscosa and P. intermedia. The colour is a warm
rosy tint, the trusses, like those of the first
named, large and abundantly flowered. These
were shown by Mr. J. Douglas, Great Bookham,
Surrey.

Narcissus White Emperor, — We regard this
as an unfortunate name applied to a flower of
sterling merit. In the first place, it is not an
Emperor in any sense, though the name might
suggest that it was either a seedling or white sport
from that well-known highly-popular sort. In
short, it is superior in many ways to Emperor,
more particularly in the fine overlapping character
of the perianth segments and in their firm texture.
This fine white Narcissus is of distinguished bearing.
See illustration on page 184. Shown by Messrs.
Cartwright and Goodwin, Kidderminster, and
Mr. Christopher Bourne, Bletchley, who, we undei-
stand, are sharing the stock of this handsome
novelty.

NEW ORCHIDS.

A number of novelties, some of them of excep-
tional value, were brought before the Orchid
committee. No fewer than five first-class certificates
were granted. Cymbidium Humblolii, shown by
Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., secured this high
award, with a cultural commendation in addition.
Other novelties to gain first-class certificates were :
Brasso-Cattleya heatonensis Canary and Cypri-
pedium Roundhead, both shown by Lieutenant -
Colonel Sir George Holford ; Odontoglossum
eximium Warnham Court, from C. J. Lucas.
Esq., Horsham ; and Lailio-Cattleya dominiana
Southfield variety, from Waters Butler, Esq.

Awards of Merit. — Cattleya intertexta Juliettas,
shown by Firmin Larabeau, Brussels ; Odontioda
Cooksonse Ralli's variety, from Pantia Ralli, Esq..
Ashtead Park ; and Odontioda keighleyensis
ignifera, shown by Messrs. J. and A. McBean.

The foregoing awards were made by the Royal
Horticultural Society on April i, when all of the
novelties were showii.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

MEALY BUG ON PEACHES.

TH E raealv bug often causes a lot o£
trouble among the Peaches about this
time. Fumigation may be resorterl
to, but unless it is constantly repeated
the new broods hatching out seem to
establish an ever-increasing army diffi-
cult to overcome. Should only an odd insect or
two be noticed, the simplest method is to touch
the bug with a drop of methylated spirit at the
end of a stick — an old-fashioned and effective
remedy. If in large numbers, however, I strongly
recommend syringing with an insecticide once a
week. This must be done regularly, and as
syringing is always being carried out, very little
e.\tra work and trouble is entailed by the process.
I have tried many insecticide washes, and the
following has proved the best, most effective and
cheapest : Take one gallon of warm rain-water
and into it measure a teaspoonful of paraffin
and a like quantity of soft soap (the disinfectant
soft soaps now sold are by far the best for maldng

188

THE GAltDEN.

[April 12, 1913-

up horticultural washes, and they are just a trifle
dearer than the ordinary soaps). Chum the
mixture to get a thorough emulsion. To assist
this, draw it up in the syringe and squirt it
back into the pail a few times. Keep stirring it
all through the process of spraying, in case the
oil separates out. Larger quantities are made up
in proportion. The wash should be about the
same temperature as the Peach-house before
spraying.

Syringe the tree from various directicns to get
at all parts. Apply in the afternoon, and then
syringe again with tepid water the following
morning. This remedy is most efiective, does no
harm to the trees, and tends to keep down all other
pests as well.

Chrvstoii. Hugh H. Aitken.

PRICKING OFF SEEDLINGS
OF ALPINE FLOWERS.

The raising of seedlings of alpine flowers is pleasant
and interesting work which may well be recom-
mended to the amateur who desires to secure a
stock of such plants at a moderate cost. Many
plants of good alpines can be obtained from seeds
with but little trouble, although some time is
required for pricking off the seedlings. This
should be performed at the earliest suitable time,
as in this way strong, healthy plants can be secured.

It is always desirab'.e to prick oft the seedlings
as soon as they have made a pair of their second
or true leaves, even though the plants are then
very small. A compost of iibrous loam, leaf-soil
and sand in about equal proportions will answer
well, although any good garden earth or loam
lightened with leaf-soil and sand will answer well.
Clean pots or pans can be employed, but bo.\es will
do quite well if they have plenty of ho\s bored
in them and a sufficient depth of drainage put in
the bottom. These boxes require about the : amc
depth of drainage as pots, and about a third of the
depth of the box or pot filled with drainage is not
too much. Over the drainage put some of the
rougher compost ; then fill up to within about half
an inch of the top, and press the compost gently
but firmly down with a piece of wood.

The seedlings ought to be carefully lifted out ot
the seed-pot so as to injure the rootlets as little
as possible, and to avoid disturbing the seedlings
which are not large enough to prick off. If the
seedlings are very small, a piece of wood, like a
pointed match, may be employed to lift out the
young plants and to make a hole for planting them
in the box or pot to which they are being trans-
ferred. When the seedlings are inserted, they
should be put in to the base of the first leaves, and
the sou gently firmed about them. When the whole
have been removed, the box should be thoroughly
watered with a fine rose, the plants kept rather
close for a day or two, and then gradually be
given air.

If the whole of the seedlings are turned out ol
the pot and the soil thrown away, much loss will
result, as there are frequently many seeds which
have not germinated, but which will do so later,
many even appearing the following spring. This
is specially the case with such things as Primulas.
Gentians and many others. Early pricking oft,
careful handling of the seedlings, thorough drainage
of the pots or boxes in which they are placed, and
proper after-attention in the way of giving air
and water will be well repaid by securing a number
of healthy plants. An Old Alpinist.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— T/ie Editor intends to
make THE Garden ftelpfut to alt readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely ivritien on one side of the paper only^
and addressed to the EDITOK of The G.iKDEN, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper-
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool ,and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the PtJBLISHER.

FLOWER GARDEN.

VIOLETS [Mrs. /■'. !•'.). — Tli« appi'araiice of tlie Violet
leaves suggests tluit all is not quite right with the draiuage,
and that^the vi-iililation has not been as free as it should
have been at tinif-- during the past particularly mild and
damp winter.

PERGOLA PATH iA. B. £.).— The least e.\pcnsive
path would bo one of gravel, or the burnt ball ash common
to many country places. The 'jravol may possibly bind
well ; the other will not, at least alone. Bricks or tiles
would require to be set in mortar, or they would move
about. Clean screened cinder-ashes mixed with lime
or cement would be as cheap as anything, anil emiiloyed
in this way would not prove unsightly. Borderings of
.Mossy Saxifrage, say, S. hypuoides variety, or white garden
Pink" would do quite well. Both are of easy culture
and inexpensive, and while costing little for the upkeep,
would prove ctTective for some time.

ROCK GARDENING (B. M. B.).—k book hkely to be
of service to you is " Rock and Water Gardens," by the
late F. W. Meyer, published at 6s. net at the ofBce of this
paper. Independently of this, or even in conjunction
therewith, you might study the valuable series of articles
entitled " Itock Gardens in the Making," which, com-
mencing in the issue of THE GARDEN for October 26, 1912,
were continued weekly to the end of that year. This
series deals with many phases of the work. If, however,
you are contemplating building a rock garden, and have
but little knowledge of the subject, your better plan would
be to confer with a specialist on the spot. The position
appears to be in some respects favourable, assuming it
is not so near the sea as to sulfer from the iil-etfeets of
the salt spray.

INCREASING LEDCOPHYTA BROWNII (W. O.).-
We have made enquiries and cannot find that seed of
I,cucophyta (Calocephalus) Broivnii is obtainable. 'iXv
general method of increase is by means of cuttings, which
are not at all difflcult to root. They should be taken off
at a length of a couple of inches or thereabouts, and be
dibbled into prepared pots of fine sandy compost. After
this they need to be placed in a close propagating-case,
and if there is a slight bottom-heat, so much the better.
If the ease is too close — that is to say, if there is an excess
of atmospheric moisture — the cuttings are liable to damp
off. In the summer cuttings may be struck in an ordinary
garden frame without any artificial heat, provided the
frame is kept close and ' shaded from direct sunshine
until the cuttings are rooted.

IRISES FOR RIVER BANK Qt . M. C'.).— There are
no Irises more suitable for the purpose than those known
as Flags, and these, while crowning the top of the bank,
might "overflow dow^n the bank itself. If you desire a
bold display at the top, we would suggest that you employ
onlv one variety, vi?,., pallida, and arrange for a yard-
wid'e band of it. If you desire more than one variety,
we suggest Queen of May, .Mme. Chereau, Gracchus,
"Dr. Bernice and Mrs. C. Darwin to make a distinct set.
Down the bank the common purple Flag and Princess
of Wales, white, would do perfectly. You might plant
at once, giving all a fair start in deeply-dug soil. We
presume the bank soil is not infested by wireworms, which
are partial to these Irises. You might establish Daffodils
in plenty on the bankside by planting bulbs in autumn
Scarlet Dogwood, Flowering Currant, Berberis Darwinii,
Spirsea, Deutzia and Weigela in variety are shrubs that
would prove useful for the purpose. The Irises and
Daffodils, with Dogwood for winter effect, would, we
think, produce the best results.

PRIMULAS AND AURICULAS (./ H. P ).- -We need
not advise Auriculas, as you already do them so well,
but the following Primulas, in addition to those enu-
merated by you, should succeed under the conditions
named : P'. b'ulleyana, P. eajutata, P. cocklmrniana, P.
dentieulata, P. d. alba. P. floribunda. P. Forbesii, P.
iuvolucrata. P. ro«ea, P. Sieboldii in variety, P. viscosa,
P. V. nivalis. P. v. Mrs. H. J. Wilson and P. Veitchii.
We liave at one time or another met with a dozen forms
of double Primrose, but cannot say whether they are
all in existence now. In a catalogue ot one of the principal
hardy plant nurseries we note eleven varieties mentioned.

It gives us great pleasure to learn that you have been
so successful with your .\uriculas, more especially as
you have gained yoiu- information from The Garden.
It has always been our aim to assist our numerous readers
as far as possible, and the many grateful letters that we
receive show that our endeavours have been largely
crowned with success. We trust that your display of
Auriculas will in every way come up to, or even exceed,
anticipation.

PLANTS FOR HIGH, DRY WALL (M. U. C.).—U the
wall is quite dry and no soil exists between the stone^,
you will have difficulty in establishiug plants therein.
If, however, you can introduce a little soil into the
crevices, such things as .\ubrietias, Alyssuin saxatile,
Zauschneria ealifornica, Iberis sempervirens, Erinus
alpinus. Snapdragons, Thrift, Iceland Poppies and
Centranthiis ruber may be grown. The whole of these
may be introduced by means of seeds, mixing a pinch of
seed with a pint of moist soil and working it into the
crevices. If this quantity of soil was distributed over
a 2-feet run of the wail, a group would be presently formed ;
or perhaps you may like your wall to be a mass of
Aubrietia in May and June, and if so, the entire wall
may be treated with varieties of these plants, which
afford sheets of colour in pink, violet and lilac. The best
plants for the paved walk would be Campanula^ pusilla
and alba, puUa and muralis. .Mentha Requienii, Arenaria
baleariea, Erinus alpinus. i^inaria pilosa. Thymus Ser-
pyllum eoeeineum and Sedum hispanicum glaucum,
all of which, save Erinus, should be introduced by means
of small pieces of plants into the crevices between the
stones. The present is a good time to plant.

FAILURES IN SWEET PEAS (P. H.).— In the fiirf
place, we advise you not to plant your Sweet Peas in a deep
trench which has been partly tilled with well-rotted
manure, though certainly the ground should be well
trenched all over, and where the rows are to come there
may be a slight depression, just sufficient to allow the
moisture to run towards the rows rather than away,
this more for economy when applying water artificially ;
but if your ground is" heavy, plant or sow quite on the
flat. We have only come across one lot of Sweet Peas
ttiat acted in the same manner as yours — grew quite well
and failed to open or throw many bloom-buds — and this
was also on a rather low and damp position. Earlier in
the season we should have advised you to have given
the soil a thorough good liming all over, and even now,
if the plants or seeds are in the ground, you might give
the ground a fair sprinkling of fresh-slaked lime, taking
care not to get too much of it on the young foliage. This
may prove all that is necessary. Instead of the lime,
or in addition to it, you might give the rows a dressing
of superphosphate of lime and sulphate of potash, say,
loz. of each to each yard run. This may be given two
or three times during the growing season at intervals of
two or three weeks.

THE GREENHOUSE.

INJURY TO BEGONIAS {Begonia).— \oa should always
send speeiniens when asking for advice, for that enables
us to be more certain of the cause of the trouble enquired
about. There are two causes for the so-called " rust "
in Begonias — eelworm and mite. Probably the latter
is at work in your plants : but it is very difflcult to see
without a powerful lens. We think you will find (if the
mite is the source of the trouble) that dipping the plants
now and then in a wash made by kneading flowers of
sulphur into a handful of soft soap and dissolving it in
one and a-half gallons of warm water will be the best
remedy.

DAFFODILS FAILING (P.).— It is difficult to give a
reason for the comparative failure of some of your Daffodils,
but one thing struck us. Although you say they were
treated on the lines laid down by the Rev. J. Jacob in
his book, you mention they have been in the Auricula-
house throughout. Now, the Rev. J. Jacob in his book
advises them, when potted, to be plunged under Cocoanut
fibre refuse or ashes outside till they are well roofed.
If you overlooked this, it might be answerable for your
very limited success. Again, success or otherwise will
depend upon the vigour and condition of the bulbs, as if
they contain but a single flower in embryo, a solitary bloom
is all that one will have, lio\\e\ei they may be treated.
We should advise you to waler the bulbs until they die
down naturally, anil tlieu phiiit tliein out next August or
September.

GREENHOUSE FLOWERS FOR CUTTING (D. C.).—
Wallflowers sown now. afcerward.^ planted out, and in
the autumn lifted and carefully repotted will flower well
in the greenhouse. The .\ntu:rhinums, Dianthus and
Campanula pyramidalis would not prove satisfactory
for winter flowering. Mignonette should be sown iu July
and August. Two good varieties for the purpose are
Maehet and Queen Victoria Other subjects that can
be recommended for flowering in such a structure are
Forget-me-not, sown now and potted up in the autumn,
while hardy Primroses arc also satisfactory if carefully
lifted and potted. Seeds of Primula sinensis, P. kewensis
and P. obconica may be sown now. and Stocks Beauty of
\ice and East Lothian in Ma\ . Besides these, some of
the late-flowering Chrysanthemums are very valuable
in the greenhouse. These can. as young plants, be pur-
chased at a cheap rate now. Bulbs, too, are worthy of
consideration, though the bulk of them do uot flower
till the new year is one or two months old. Roman
Hyacinths potted in .August will, however, flower by
Christmas, while Crocuses will, under glass, anticipate
by some time their usual season of flowering out of
doors.

GARDEN.

'^^Ti

No. 2161 - Vol. LXXVII.

April 19, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes of the Wekk

CORRESPONDENCK

Tbe Parrot's Bill
Plant 190

Saxifraira (Jrisc-
bachii 190

Calceolaria Veitfhii 191

How to s;row Saxi-
fraga burseriana. . 191

Forthcoming events.. 191

Daffodil Xotes
Some of tbe recent
gems at Vincent
Squaie .. .. 191
Planting a paved gar-
den 192

Greenhouse
The Perpetual-tlower-
ing Carnation in
Scotland .. .. 192
A new PerpHnal-
flowering M a I -
maison Carnation 19:'

llOCK AND M'ATER GaKIiKS

A Primrose for the
water-side .. .. 19:1

The Nymphseas or
hardy Water
Lilies 193

194

194

195

190

189 I IvITCHEN G.iRDEN

Seasonable notea on
vegetables . .
Flower Garden

Primroses and Poly-
anthuses

Some good Tulip
species
FuriT Garden

Methods of combat-
ing wound fungi
on fruit trees
Gardening foe Bf.oinneks

The cultivation of
annual Poppies.. 197

Three beaut i f u 1
annuals .. 197

(iARDENINO OF THE WEEK

For Soutliern gar-
dens 198

For Northern gar-
dens 198

Answers to Corre-
spondents

Flower garden . . 199

Greenhouse J 99

Fruit garden . . 199

Kitchen garden , . 199

Miscellaneous 199

Societies 199

ILLUSTRATIONS.

190

Well-grown plants of Saxifraga Grisebachii

The new Perpetual-flowering Malmaisou Carnatiun

>Iis. Wilfred Gott 192

An effective grouping of Primula rosea 193

Polyanthuses as streamsidc flowers at Clandoii Park 194

A beautiful group of the Water-Lily Tulip . . . . 195

The early-flowering Tulipa saxatilis 19d

Shirley Poppies in an open woodland space . . 197

EDITORIAL NOTIGBS.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes pliotographs, articles and notes,
but he tvill not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions .

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It mu^t be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated vtith.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be ai>le to use, and
the receipt of a proof mxist not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Gajiden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

O^res : 20. Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

The Mezereons. — The varieties of Daphne
iMezereum .irr flowering exceedingly well this
spring, so that the popular idea that the want of
ripening caused by the wet summer would prevent
them blooming so freely has not been borne
out by facts. Rarely, if ever, have we seen
bushes so full of bloom as this spring, and
some of them are literally laden with flowers.
Curiously enough, they are flowering later than
usual.

Wallflower Early Paris. — This useful plant is
undoubtedly unc ot the most valuable of Wall-
flowers, owuig to the long period it may be had in
bloom. By sowing seeds now, flowers may be had
from the end of the summer on through the autunm
and winter — providing they are planted in a warm,
sheltered spot and the weather mild — till the
spring, when they are followed by the Wallflowers
that are usually grown, giving us this favourite
flower most of the year. The Early Paris type
can be had in yellow and brown shades, and seed
is i-heap.

Fasciated Stock. — At a recent meeting of the
scientific committee of the Royal Horticultural
Society, Mr. H. Stuart Thompson sent from
Carquieraime. South of France, part of a tasciated
example of Matthiola sinuata bearing hundreds
of flowers and having a stem about two and three-
quarter inches in width. Though fasciated plants
are very frequently showii before the committee —
perhaps more frequently than those showing any
other aberration of growth — Stocks have rarely
or never been exhibited in this condition. The
present specimen was growing on the cliff outside
an hotel garden, and others there showed a similar
habit of gruwth-

Newly-Planted Fruit Trees. — in many districts,

owmg to the very wet and sticky condition of the
soil, the planting of fruit trees could not be carried
out in such a satisfactory manner as when the
earth is more friable. Now that it is becoming
drier, cracks of various sizes will probably appear,
which must be immediately filled, and it will be
expedient to see that the soil is quite firm around
the base of the trees. The wind has also been
very rough in most parts of the coimtry, and it
behoves the grower to see that his trees are secure,
especially where any staking has been done, for
it sometimes happens that the tying material
or stake is chafing against the tree, which will
cause irreparable damage unless given prompt
attention.

Tulips in Grass. — As far is we can gather,
there seems to be great doubt if Tulips will con-
tinue to bloom more than one or two years when
they are planted in grass. The bulbs will go on
living, and year by ye^u- they will send up a large
single leaf, as much fs to say, " I am here all right,
but no bloom this year." Our contributor the

Rev. J. Jacob is most an.xious to gather reliable
information about their behaviour from those
who have grown them in this way. A wider know-
ledge of this important branch of Tulip culture is
much wanted. We heartily endorse Mr. Jacob's
appeal and hope he will have many communica-
tions on the subject, so that later on in the year
he may be able to place before our readers some
reliable facts. His address is Whitewell Rectory,
Whitchurch, Salop

Primula japonica as a Water-side Plant.—

People who are only familiar with this species when
it is grown as a single specimen or as a small group
can have no idea of its imposing character when
cultivated on an extensive scale, as is sometimes
practised in gardens in the South-West Cotmties,
and particularly at Enys, near Falmouth. In
the latter garden it is naturalised in the vicinity
of the lake, and covers a considerable area ol
groimd, the plants being particularly vigorous,
the leaves large, the inflorescences tall and strong,
and the colour of the flowers rich. There is no
necessity to introduce fresh stock at any time, •
for an abmidant supply of self-sown seedlings
appear. It is, however, necessary to weed out the
i poor-colijured forms each year, for by this means
onlv can the best strain be kept.

A Simple Cure for Black Spot in Roses. — in

the National Rose Society's Annual, fuller par-
ticiUars of which appear elsewhere, Dr. Arthur R.
Waddell gives some most interesting and instructive
information on the treatment of black spot, a
fungus that attacks the foliage of Roses very badly
in some districts. Dr. Waddell has proved that
commercial formaldehyde (40 per cent.), one
tablespoonful to a gallon of water, is an excellent
preventive. This should be sprayed on to the
plants and also the soil at frequent intervals during
the growing season. Dr. Waddell has also found
it answer well for mildew and Rose black mildew.
This commercial formaldehyde can be obtained
cheaply and is clean to use, Roso-growers will,
in future, be able to successfully combat the pests
mentioned above.
The Chatham Island Forget-me-not.— Although

suggestive of an ordinary Forget-me-not, Myoso-
tidium nobile belongs to a different family. Writing
in the Lyttleton Times of May 2, 1906, Dr. Cockayne
describes it fully, and mentions two other but less
appropriate common names which are sometimes
used, viz., Chatham Island Lily and Macquarie
Cabbage. Under natural conditions the plant is
said to be almost extinct, though at one time it
formed a continuous belt along the seashore just
above high- water mark. In those counties where
it thrives it is certamly a plant which ought to
be widely grown. It would not, however, be
Wise, in the face of its being well known to he
suitable only for certain localities, to make an
extensive plantmg without previously testing its
ability to withstand the climatic conditions of the
district.

190

THE GARDEN.

[April 19. 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
ixpressid by correspondents.)

Annual Saxifrages. — In The Garden of April 5
your correspondent H. E. Molyneux, referring to
Saxifraga Cymbalaria, writes ■, , " I believe the
only annual member of this large family." Our
delicate little native S. tridactylites is another. —
G. G. T., Strati aven, N.B.

Platystemon californicus and Its Common

Name. — In your issue of April 5, page 171. in an
article containmg a reference to Platystemoi.'
californicus, the writer queries the existence of
a more common name for this interesting plant.
There is one, and he is not far from the mark in
suggesting Cream. The garden name is Cream
Cups. I think that is correct. — H. A. Day,
Ellham, Kent.

A Beautiful Colour Combination. — Your note
on this in The Gar.ien for March 29, page 153.
encourages me to make mention of a similar lovely
combine I took notice of last year. The discovery
came more by chance than by set purpose. At

pinnate leaves keep fresh and oright, and lurnish
a delightful setting for the rich red flowers, which
appear in large terminal inflorescences. Each
flower is from 2 inches to 3 inches long and curiously
shaped, the shape having suggested the common
name of Parrot's Bill Plant, which is current in
New Zealand. C. puniceus is not a difficult plant
to grow, but it requires frequent renewal, for after
giving good results for several years it hegins
to deteriorate, and should then be replaced by a
young specimen. There is a white-flowered
variety, but it is les? showy than the type. — W. D.
Snow in Norfolli. — Norwich and Norfolk ex-
perienced the full force of the snowfall on the
nth inst,, quite 5 inches falling, and with a strong
wind much damage was done to the spring flowers.
Thi Narcissus family seems to have fared worst.
Generally speaking, the blooms of these were at
their best, but the weight of the snow brought
them down to the soil and utterly ruined thousands.
On the morning of the 12th a frost followed, but,
previous to this, much damage had been done
to the Plum blossom by cutting winds, which had
shrivelled tender subjects as if they had been
burned. — Aytch Pea.

WELL-GRCW.M PLANTS Of- SAXIFRAGA GRISEBACHIl IN B.WARIA.

the top of a small rockery were a few plants of
Linum perenne, while immediately below a few bare
places existed. To hide these latter some plants
of the Ivy-leaved Geranium Mme. Crousse were
obtained and planted. When they both came
into flower, the effect was really splendid ; the
light pink trusses crouching at the feet of the graceful
swaying blue spikes at once arrested the attention.
It has since occurred to me that the arrangement
of these two plants would make a striking summer
bed. The Ivy-leaved Geranium would be trained
over the bed to make a groundwork, and the Linum
used as a dot or upright plant at intervals. —
C. Turner, 3, Kenwood Road. Highgale, N.

Tlie Parrot's Bill Plant. — No more beautiful
wall plant than this, Clianthus puniceus, can be found
for planting in Devonshire, Cornwall and other
places with a similar climate, for from mid-March
t') early June it blossoms with great freedom,
the flowers being of a peculiarly showy character.
A native of New Zealand, it has long been in culti-
vation, and is a favourite plant for growing on
greenhouse rafters and pillars in many parts of
the country, but in such positions it can rarely
be allowed to develop so freely as is the case when
it is planted against outside walls. Its evergreen.

The Scarlet Windflower Failing.— Mr. S.

Arnott's desire, on page 181, April 12 issue, to
discover the cause of failure of this lovely subject
is welcome. In the home of my childhood it
flourished year after year in ordinary perennial
beds, receiving, so far as I know, no special treat-
ment. The soil was shallow, on limestone rocks
with perfect drainage, and in the same mixed
beds I remember great mats of Daphne Cneorum.
Alas ! now both are gone. In another garden for a
number of years several beds of Anemone fulgens
flowered regularly with the greatest profusion.
The position was high, 600 feet above sea-level.
The beds were on the top of a sloping bank which
falls rapidly towards the west. The soil was a light,
gravelly loam, with limestone rock just below. The
tubers were planted deeply and never moved, and
in the summer the surface was used for bedding
plants ; yet for many years they continued to be
a perfect success, vigorous, increasing, a mass of
blooms, imtil a new gardener with new methods
soon settled them. I have had success with first
season new tubers, but failure afterwards, although
a few isolated clumps that are neglected and in
apparently unsuitable places never fail to bloom well.
— Ernest Ballard Colwall near Malvern.

Seasonable Advice. — In our intensive methods
of modern cultivation we have come to recognise
that diseases and plant pests are making great
headway against us, and that every precaution
ought to be taken to eliminate all chances of
bringing fresh troubles into our gardens. I have
conducted many experiments in connection with
this matter and made a large number of investi-
gations, and I want to warn readers that every
fresh plant which is brfiught into the garden
should be sterilised or disinfected. To do this,
liver of sulphur solution (loz. per two gallons),
Bordeaux mixture. Quassia solution chunied up
with soft soap, or some of the valuable proprietary
insecticides and fungicides advertised in these
coluimis should be employed, and new plants
sprayed from top to bottom. Only by such
methods can one expect to preserve a garden pure
and free of pests, and the plan is thoroughly
efficient if consistently practised, besides being
well worth the trouble. A garden free of pests
and diseases is a " thing of beauty and a joy for
ever," and greatly to be desired in these days of
advancing horticultural science. — Hugh H.
Aitken.

Saxifraga Grisebachii. — From the note m youi
issue tor March 8, page 120, I was surprised to
learn that this Rockfoil does not thrive so well
as could be wished for in England. This is a great
pity, for the species is really of exceeding beauty
when it grows away freely. Mavbe the difficulty
is confined to some localities with exceptional
climatic conditions. The report from a place
where the plant gives no cause lor complaint
Tiiiv be welcome, and perhaps show the way to
success I have a plant on my rockery which
forms a firm, close cushion, having at the present
time thirty rosettes, sixteen of which bear flower-
spikes. For this plant a hole 8 inches deep by
4 inches wide was cut in the top of a block of
hard tufa rock, and a small channel to drain off
water was driven in laterally to the bottom of that
hole. This receptacle was then filled in with
calcareous, gritty, loamy soil, with a little peat,
uito which pieces of sharp-edged limestone of
Walnut size were closely pressed, the whole being
firmly pressed down as the work went on. When
the top was reached, the plant — then a simple
rosette — was inserted a little above top-level.
In course of time, through the action of rain and
waterings, some soil was washed away from the
neck of the rosette, so as to leave it a little raised
up, the method of planting resembling, in fact,
tnat recommended for planting Androsace helvetica.
The plant has now occupied this place for five years,
always looking healthy, and it has since increased
to the size above mentioned. The aspect is south-
west, a position which few species of the encrusted
section could stand unscathed ; but neither the
scorching sun of 1911 nor the unceasing rains of
last season harmed it. The illustration shows four
alpine pots, some with one. others with originally
two or three single rosettes, the latter having now
grown together into one compact tuft each. These
plants have a little more soil, and the rosettes are
of great size, some measuring 2 inches across.
These plants are now four years old, and are bearing
twelve, sixteen, eighteen and twenty inflorescences
respectively. I have increased this Saxifrage
considerably during the last five years without
any difficulty. I will not close this note without
a word in favour of another lovely species, S.
thessalica, not quite so imposing, but sweetly pretty
with its more modest little purple spikes. — E.
Heinrich, Planegg, near Munich, Bavaria.

April 19, 1913-]

THE GAKDEN.

191

Calceolaria Veitchil. — As a supplement to the
article on Calceolaria alba on page 157, March 29
issue, attention may well be directed to a delightful
hybrid from it, namely. Calceolaria Veitchii.
This, which was given an award of merit at the
International Exhibition last May. was raised at
the nursery of Messrs. Robert Veitch and Son of
Exeter, the parents being C. alba and an albino
form of that pretty garden variety Golden Glory,
which was also raised at Exeter and is now much
grown. A prominent characteristic of C. Veitchii
is its extreme wgour, in which respect it greatly
surpasses either of its parents, as it forms quite a
bold bush from 3 feet to 5 feet in height and bears
a great profusion of milk white flowers, with,
when first expanded, a slight yellowish tinge. The
foliage is, except in size, somewhat after the manner
of C. alba, as the leaves are lanceolate in shape
and much serrated. It comes readily from seed,
and the young plants grow away freely. Besides
this, it may also be struck from cuttings. Another
variety sho^vn at the " International " by the same
exhibitors was Bronze Age, a plant 18 inches to
2 feet in height, of a loose, pleasing habit of growth,
and bearing good-sized flowers of a rich bronzy
crimson coloiu:. Both are good decorative subjects
for the greenhouse. — H. P.

How to Grow Saxifraga burseriana.— Beginners
in the art of growing alpine plants ha%'e many
difficulties to contend with, but the difiiculties are
increased when those who offer instruction as to
the method of treating the plants differ among
themselves. Take, by way of example, Saxifraga
burseriana, Mr. Reginald Farrer, in " The Rock
Garden," page 68, says " This (S. burseriana)
detests sunshine and open positions,
in his other work, " My Rock Garden,"
S. burseriana among the Kabschia
which, as he states on page 115. require light, limy
loam, and an open but not too sunburnt exposure.
Compared with one another, most people would
say that these two statements are contradictory.
Ha\nng tried S. burseriana and its varieties Gloria
and Magna in a partially-shaded position, with
the result that I obtained one bloom from the three
plants, I sought out other authorities. On con-
sulting Robinson's " Alpine Flowers for Gardens,"
I find " it soon forms good-sized tufts, preferring
a dry, simny situation." On my appealing for
advice to Mr. Clarence Elliott, who has exhibited
magnificent examples of S. burseriana Gloria
at recent Royal Horticultural Society's shows,
he wrote me that I should give a south or south-
west aspect. Now will some of your readers
who have had more experience than I have had
be good enough to vouchsafe information on the
subject ? He would be a bold man wtio would
suggest that Mr. Farrer has made a mistake in
the advice he has given in " The Rock Garden."
I)ut it looks like it. Would Mr. I'arrer also be
good enough to say which he really thinks is the
correct method nf growing this (to me) difficult
plant ? — Alpinisi.

DAFFODIL NOTES.

B

" &c. ; yet
he classifies
Saxifrages,

FORTHCOMINC; EVENTS,

.^pril 22. — Midland Daffodil Society's Show at
Birmingham (two davs). Lincolnshire Daffodil
Society's Show.

April 23. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exaim-
nation in Cottage and Allotment Gardening. North
of England Horticultural Society's Spring Show at
Leeds.

.\pril 24. — Norwich Spring Flower Show.

April 26. — Ghent Quinquennial Exhibition (nine
days).

SOME OF THE RECENT GEMS AT
VINCENT SQUARE.

EFORE I carry out my promise of
last week, a word or two of explanation
is necessary. Top-of-the-tree varieties,
such as CroBSus and Bernardino, are
too well known to need a description
here. I have only one card trick.
I get a bystander to draw a card, and after he
has looked at it I ask him to put it back
anywhere in the pack, which I give him
for the purpose. I then take it back, and
having given the cards a real good shuffle, say :
" You are quite sure you know the card ? "
" Yes." " Quite certain ? " " Yes." " Oh ! then
there is no need for me to tell you." There is no
need for me to describe flowers already famiUar
to my readers. So will they please note these
I twenty are not the very best of all that were there.
< These best-known ones and the brand-new un-
named seedlings, with two exceptions, .ir'"- mt; this
occasion passed by on the other side. Hor"-. then,
is my list, alphabetically arranged, and with the
exhibitors' names in parentheses dirortly after the
name of the flower.

Ambell (Watts). — A pretty, almost white
.Ajax. The perianth is of the double triangle
type, with overlapping segments, and of a greenish
white colour. The trumpet is primrose. Size,
31 inches by i| inches by li inches.

Anette (R Sydenham, Limited). — A " Crosfield "
Giant Leedsii. No Crosfield flowers are anything
but very good — none, at any rate, that the public
ever see. He is a very " Spartan " among his
seedlings. The perianth is flat and overlapping,
and the cup primrose, well formed and prettily
frilled. Size, 3i inches by ij inches by ij inches.
Bloodstone (Barr). — About the nicest flower on
the stand. The cup has a very distinct angular
appearance, and the orange red edge looks as if
it was the top of a ruflle. The perianth is white,
slightly ribbed and rather undulating.

Bride of Lammermoor (Barr). — A distinct
white trumpet, with a perianth shaped like that
of Sir Francis Drake. Its weak spot from a show
point is the top of the trumpet, which has an
ungainly look. It is, however, a striking flower,
and one that many people will like.

Fire King (R. H. Bath). — An improved Lucifer.
The red in the cup is of a deeper shade, and the
perianth not so floppy. Mr. Leak tells me that
the sun only intensifies the colour, and before it
is over it looks as if you would burn your fingers
if you touched it. This is just what we all want.

Gold Coin (R. Sydenham). — A taking and very
distinct bloom, a five-pound piece running away,
with broad white streamers all round it. Size of
diameter of reflexed perianth. 2} inches ; of the
eye. 1 1 inrhe>.

Impressario (Chapman), but Chapman';, no
longer, as it was bought liy that most exacting
critic " P. D." It is a soft Nelson yellow trumpet,
with a smooth, overlapping and very slightly-
hooded perianth. The trumpet has a very refined
look, and is broadly flanged at the apex Size,
4 inches by if inches by i|- inches. A beautiful
show bloom.

John 0' Gaunt (Cartwright and Goodwin). — A
magnificent large yellow trumpet raised by Mr.
Chapman. Mr. Engleheart told me he had tried
to buy it ; but, like Pierpont Morgan with Hardv's

manuscript, he had failed. Later in the afternoon
I met Mr. Tom Page of Hampton looking very
pleased with himself and wearing a fine bloom
of Carnation Mary, .-Ulwood in his button-hole.
I soon found out why — he was the purchaser.
His market instincts led him to single out this
particular variety as something in his line which
he was prepared to pay for. It is a flower of the
star-shaped type, with broad, overlapping perianth
segments, with a slight twist in the three alternate
ones. Size, 5 J inches by i| inches by 2 inches.
Very tine indeed.

Lissadell 23&— 9 (Ussadell).— A beautiful pale
canary triandrus seedling with quite an incom-
parabilis look, so much so that those unfamiliar
with Daffodils might easily have thought it some
relation to Homespun. Size. 3 J inches by seven-
eighths of an inch bv t inch. It was one of the
most distinct flow • ^ in the show, and so delicate
and retincl.

March White (R. H. Bath).— A very carly-
fl wering, almost white Ajax of moderate size.
P' rianth segments slightly twisted, trumpet pale
primrose. The plant is vigorous and free-flowering,
and the flowers are borne on long stems. It has
the makings of a very fine pot variety ; but that
will not be yet awhile, as the price is about four to
five pounds.

Paulban (Chapman). — A dehghtfully clean and
pretty-looking Barri with a pure white perianth
and a cup of clear lemon edged with an orange red.
It first showed its face, as the old flower books
would say, when the celebrated aviator was trj-ing
to beat the London and North Western express
from London to Manchester ; hence its name.
Diameter of the whole, 3 inches ; of the eye,
three-quarters of an inch.

Pixie (Wilson). — A show flower in every sense
of the word. Smooth and refined ; large, spreading
eye, with a red edge graduating in shade to the
yellow centre. Perianth ivory white and much
overlapping.

Plucliley (Warren). — A refined yellow trumpet.
One of the Westbere seedlings, and having the
good texture and substance of that celebrated
strain. Size, 4 inches by i J inches by ij inches.

Queen of the North (Barr). — An improved and
enlarged WTiite Lady. Bound to be a popular
flower.

Red Lady (Bourne). — If one put an Almira
perianth on to a Firebrand cup, shghtly enlarged,
one would have something like Red Lady. 1 fanc\-
it wants good cultivation, but, given that, it is a
charming thing. Size, 3^ inches by seven-eighths
1)1 an inch.

Sarabande (Hath). — .\ Chapman Poet with .1
medium-sized red eye and a striking Poetarum-
looking perianth. A good - sized flower. Size,
3 J inclies bv three-qu'irters of an inch.

SardiUS (Wilson). — A fine bit of colour. The
deoply-edged eye at once arrests attention, and
in combination with the slightly-reflexed and
long-segmented perianth gives us a most pleasing
bloom. Size. 3 J inches by ij inches.

White Emperor (Bourne and Cartwright .iiid
Goodwin). — A di\idiiig (see last week's notes) and
a di\ided (in ownership) flower. If it had only
been named White Empress I would have called
it divine. Size, 4J inches by if inches by i| inches.
L^ndoubtedly an exhibition flower of a very high
quality ; but it does not seem to me to be either
fish, flesh, fowl, or good red herring. It has too
much of a Leedsii look if one thinks of it as a

192

THE GARDEN.

[April 19, 1913.

trumpet, and too much of a trumpet look it one
thinks of it as a Giant Leedsii,

White Pennant (Bath).— The greatest novelty
m the Hall. A Giant Leedsii of exquisite substance
and with long, Almond-shaped perianth segments
very slightly inciurving. The cup is well formed,
of pale primrose colour, with a decidedly deeper
shade on its broadly-flanged edge. Here is a
proportion sum worked out : As The Doctor is to
The Earl, or, say, Frank Miles to Autocrat, so is
White Pennant to Empire.

Wilson's 500 (Wilson).— A " cool customer."
It has a very green-looking centre, with the
narrowest rjf red edges and a slightly undulating
white perianth. Size, si inches
by five-eighths of an inch. It
might be said by some to be a
little lacking in colour, as the
red is not very pronounced. To
me, however, it appealed very
much. Joseph Jacob.

THE GREENHOUSE.

THE

T

no doubt

practical

diminished

PERPETUAL-FLOWERING CAR-
NATION IN SCOTLAND.

HE production of plants of Perpetual-
flowering Carnations is pursued on
different lines in Scotland to those
ni the South of England, though the
flowering treatment is identical, or
practically so. Individual methods,
vary ; but unless some of the chief
points are similar, success may be
even to the vanishing-point. Like

PLANTING A PAVED
GARDEN.

I KIND the best tool to use in
planting a stone pathway in a rock
garden is a small wooden dibble
and the handle of an old tooth
brush, as the spaces do not permit
of the more orthodox instrument.
On that portion of the path which
receives the most wear I find
Arcnaria balearica is invaluable,
nnining like a green film in the
V-shaped grooves between the
stones, and spreading on to the
upper surface of the pavement
whenever the tread permits of it.
Other good plants are Arenaria
ca'spitosa, Cotula squalida and
acajnafolia, Epilcbium nummulari-
folium, Linaria equitriloba,
Thymus Serpyllum and, last but
not least, that charming little
close-growing Mint, Mentha
Requienii, from Corsica.

In the bays formed by a pro-
jecting rockery, where the tread is
■flight, Linaria alpina. Campa-
nula pusilla and C. pusilla alba
scramble about very prettily, while,
where it can partly rise up
against the face of an upright
rockery stone, Antennaria tomen-
tosa and A. dioica variety rosea
make a silver\' patch. If the path
is sufficiently wide, and not too
frequently walked over, many
other plants may be introduced,
such as many of the medium-sized
Campanulas, like C. pulla, C.
puUoides, G. F. Wilson, Stansfieldii and even
carpatica, also Sedums, such as S. reflexum, S.
rupestris and S. puIcheUnm, where they will not
te caught by the foot. It is best, however, to start
with the fairly rapid and dwarf growing plants,
and considerable attention should be given in the
early days to replacing any pieces which ma> ge<
disturbed either by the foot or by some inquisitive
sparrow, since in such a position the plants have
not the same opportunity of undisturbed extension
which they get in a sheltered bed in the rock
sarden. Rfc.inald A. Malby.

THE NEW PERPETU.\L-FLOWERING MALMAISON
WILFRED GOTT.

Others, I have had to feel my way and adapt
methods to means and circumstances.

I bloomed a portion of the stock very well last
winter along with Chrysantliemums, and when
the structure was required for .\rums, the Carna-
tions were transferred to a cool Peach-house,
where they have continued eminently healthy,
but have yielded fewer good blooms. I tliink,
on the whole, that a structure devoted solely to
the plants will always give the greatest satisfaction.
In the little span-roofed house set apart for
them here, the heating pipes have been kept slightly

warm all the winter up to the end of March. It
has never raised the temperature, which was
seldom higher than 50°, and frequently as low as
45° ; but the slight heat seems to be beneficial
in the way of opening the blooms, and no doubt
it allows for ventilation in cold weather being
given without any ill effects.

But of even more importance than a proper
structure in which to flower the plants is one in
which to grow them during the summer months.
I have been very fortunate in Having a low pit
originally erected for border Carnations, &c.,
the sides of which can be opened wholly by means
of wooden shutters, which, when closed, form the
sides. A portion of this has been
fitted with top ventilators, so that
the plants in the hottest weather
may be as cool as if they were in the
open, where, it may be explained,
they will not succeed so far North.
Throughout it is imperative that
they be grown all along under glass.
I am sure that quite a number of
cultivators fail during the summer
through lack of facilities to give the
plants the treatment they demand
— protection from the weather and
unlimited ventilation.

Propagation. — About the propa-
gation of Carnations there is much
diversity of opinion, and this surely
demonstrates the adaptability of
the plant when it is found to pro-
pagate so easily in so many diverse
ways and at various dates. I have
found the cuttings to root equally
satisfactorily dibbled into sand in
boxes, in the sand bed of a propa-
gating-pit, and in small pots. In
pots there is the advantage of being
able to remove those which are first
rooted without disturbing those not
so forward, or, what is worse, to
leave the first rooted till the others
are ready, which weakens the
former, for it is clear that until roots
are produced, top growth is at a
standstill ; but once roots are formed
it becomes active, and is one of the
evidences of root production. I like
to take the cuttings early in October.
It is said that there is no advantage
in striking the cuttings so early, but
I cannot escape noticing that those
who delay operations for two
months or more fail to get as many
breaks as do those who propagate
early. Nor do I care to have the
plants stopped too soon. Apparently
time should be gained by early stop-
ping, but unless the plant is very
strong and well established, the
breaks will be as four to six or eight
on an average of the strong plants. Then the impres-
sion that it is essential to break off cuttings with a
heel is not borne out in practice. A healthy and stout
cutting roots just as freely when cut off as if pulled
off, and the former has the advantage of producing a
sturdier plant with strong shoots from the very base.
I have plants growing from pieces cut off the base of
the cuttings which were inserted with only two
leaves ; but these need not be used unless to get up a
slock of a particular variety, as, of course, they never
make large plants. Stopping, it may be added,
cannot be safely done after the beginning of June.

CARN.'MION MRS.

April 19. 1913]

THE GARDEN.

193

The Best-Sized Pots. — I am sure that it is a
mistake to limit the pots to 6-inch ones. Continuity
of bloom requires a pot of 7 inches or 8 inches
diameter, though in the case of weakly-growing
sorts the smaller size may be admissible. Those
who can command a strong loam ought to be
grateful, because in a rooting medium of this kind
blooms of the finest quality can be produced ;
but those whose soil is of a light nature need not
despair. The blooms at their best will not be so
fine, and it will be necessary to feed the plants
from an early stage of growth either with
such a manure as Bentley's Carnation Manure
or with soot-water, which is excellent. Under
suitable conditions disease will be a negligible
quantity, and of the insect tribe the oiJy
member that ever attempts to colonise is the
aphis. I have heard of thrips and red spider
affecting plants, but so far North the conditions
do not seem to suit them. To sterilise a small
quantity of soil, Wulfing's Formalin is excellent
It should be applied at least a week previous to
the soil being required. To conclude, do not
expect fine blooms from weakly shoots ; but
remove these, however heartrending the process
may prove, and those left will feel all the better
for their absence. R. P. Brotherstov.

A NEW PERPETUAL FLOWERING
MALMAISON CARNATION.

The new Carn.ttion Mrs. Wilfred Cutt. which
recentlv gained an award of merit from the Roya!
Horticultural Society, combines the good qualities
of the Perpetual-flowering and the Malmaison
Carnations. The handsome pure white flowers
possess a powerful Clove-like fragranc-'. The
broad grey recurving foliage and the large globose
flow-T-buds closely resemble those of the true
.Malmaison, but the plants showed the exceptional
vigour and freedom that is characteristic of the
Perpetual-flowering varieties.

THE NYMPH.^AS OR HARDY WATER
LILIES.

{Contiiwifd from page 182).

Methods of Planting. — Various methods of
planting can be adopted, but the system I have
practised from the very first I have foimd to answer
well. To begin at the beginning, in our case
here, I would state that the first order that was
given was for a dozen varieties. That would be
about eighteen years ago. The cost of all of these
did not amount to £3 ; but I should state that the
plants were all small, though well rooted and
healthy. When unpacked on arrival from M. B.
Latour-Marliac I placed them securely in shallow
Strawberry punnets. These held them quite com-
fortably, each plant being tied in to prevent its
escape by any movement of the soil. These, with
the exception of N. flava, all throve well the first

the bottom of the basket, then some broken-up
turfy loam and road scrapings. Into this soil
the plants were firmly placed, being again tied down
to prevent floating. That season the eleven plants
grew surprisingly well, and flowered quite freely
for their size.

Dividing the Plants. — In about three years
afterwards I found it necessary to divide the
stronger-gro\s'ing varieties. These were N. Mar-
liacea albida, N. M. chromatella, N. M. rosea and
N. M. camea, all of which are well known as
\igorous growers, even imder adverse circumstances,
I then used larger nursery rounds of from 3 feet
to 4 feet in diameter. It was somewhat of a diffi-
culty to lift the plants that time, so well had they
rooted into the muddy bottom of the lake. They
were slid back into the water ; then, by means of
a cord, the baskets were pulled into greater depth
from the other side. Divisions of these and other

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

A PRI.VIROSE FOR THE WATER-
SIDE.

(Primula rose.v.)

THIS beautiful Himalayan Primrose,
which gladdens us with its umbels
of intensely rich c;u-niine flowers
during March, is an indispensable
waterside plant, in addition to
making itself almost equally at
home in rather drier situations, provided vege-
table soil enters largely into the composition
of its rooting medium. During the winter months
it forms deep bronzy red, resting buds, which at
the first call of spring open and expose the cluster
of blossoms neatly packed in their centres. Given
reasonable weather conditions, these buds develop
with surprising rapidity, and while the blossoms
frequently open when but r inch or 2 inches above
the ground, the flower-stem finally reaches a height
of 6 inches or 8 inches, and sometimes more.
Even here in the smoke-laden air of Woodford
this Primula appears to be of the easiest culture,
while it comes so readily from seed that no gardener
shouJd be without it. When the crowns become
numerous, it is advisable to break them up,
replanting some few inches apart. Not infre-
quently the resting buds have a tendency to rise
out of the soil, and this should be counteracted by
either gently pressing them back into the ground or
— perhaps the better way — placing some top-
dressing about them. Reginald .\. Malby.

.\X EFFECTIVE GROUPING OF PRIMUL.'^ ROSE.\, A CH.\RMING SPECIES FOR JHi-.
ROCK GARDEN OR WATER-SIDE.

season and survived the following winter, which
was a very severe one. The plant of N. flava,
however, succumbed during that trying winter.
As I did not then feel assured of their hardihood,
I covered the ice, soon after it formed, with some
straw litter, to prevent, if possible, a thick coating
over the Lilies. I followed this system of protec-
tion for a few seasons afterwards. Finding, or at
least deeming, it not to be essential, I ceased to
cover them, and have never done so since. These
little plants of the first season grew so well, and a
few flowers were the result in the second year from
planting. At two years from their receipt I lifted
them carefully. The punnets were, as a matter of
course, decayed, but the roots all lifted well. I then
transferred the plants to small, but old, nursery
rounds of about two feet in diameter. The soil
I used then — and I have found nothing to answer
better — %vas, first, a layer of decayed leaves over

strong-growing varieties have taken place since.
One has to be careful, I find, about the division
of the weaker growers. This has to be done with
more care and not so frequently. I divided our
plants of N. odorata rosacea and others of this
section, and they never throve well afterwards.
I am sorry to say. The root growths of these arc
much smaller and not nearly so succulent or sappy,
being somewhat hard in texture. They make
much smaller roots in comparison also. The
N. Laydekeri section appear to be somewhat
intermediate in growth, but they grow freely, all
the same, and flower most profusely, but, like
the N. odorata section, do not need to be dis-
turbed so frequently.

Never on any account should tubs be used. This
is an utter mistake, for the soil in them becomes
stagnant and sour beyond any hope of improve-
ment. I have heard of Teak tubs being used for

194

riTK GAliDRK,

[April iq, 191,3.

the purpose, but it is an expenditure that cannot
be in any sense justified. Wire baskets are not
50 bad as tubs, because aeration of the water
and the soil can then take place within them.
But wire baskets will contract, or limit, the growth
■ if the rhizomes, and this is to be regretted. Loose
bricks are better than wire baskets, as these can
be removed and extended. Of all the systems,
however, I much prefer nursery rounds without
anv handles to them. In small and easily accessible
fountains, or basins of water, I consider nothing
to equal bricks of the usual size ; these should be
Imilt up lightly and loosely, so as to hold the soil.
.\bout three courses of these are sufficient for all
but the strongest growers, and these only need
four courses at the most. So-called " pockets,"
or hollow spaces provided in rockwork, at times
.ire bad places for Water Lilies, as the soil cannot
be readily renewed in them.

Season of Planting and Seedlings.— After

several years' experience now, 1 find no time to
iMinal the spring, h'rom the last week in April

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON VEGE
TABLES.

Tomatoes for Outdoors. — In these days we

expect to see Tomatoes growing splendidly in
the garden of the cottage as well as in the ornate
establishment attached to a nobleman's home.
It is, in a sense, extraordinary how popular they
liave become, because they are not the easiest of
plants to manage, and when outdoor culture is
the only method possible, disappointment is apt
to come, despite all efforts to guard against or
prevent it. To ensure success the season must
be a sunny one, but the grower should always
endeavour to produce such excellent plants that
the utmost advantage will be secured of the good
weather that comes along. To this end the plants
now hi 2j-inch pots should be transferred to those
4 1 inches in diameter when the present pots are
full of roots, while those in boxes must go into
_l-inch pots preparatory t" passing to the larger

but it is so welcome on the table that no cultivator
hesitates to accept the slight risk involved in sowing
after the middle of this month. Choose a variety
like Sutton's Crimson Globe, drop seeds in groups
of three at intervals of lo inches, and thin out,
always reserving the weakest plant, provided it is
healthy, as it will produce the most refined root.

Scarlet Runners. — The season when this plant
becomes most useful is very late in the summer and
autumn, when the Green Peas have either gone for
the year or are scarce, and sowing in May meets
the demand. It is, however, almost invariably
necessary to have pods ready for picking much
earher in case they are wanted, and seeds should
therefore be sown under glass at once to provide
early plants. Do not attempt to rush them in
a high temperature, as this spells weakness and
involves trouble when they have to be planted,
but grow sturdily and strongly to secure hardy
plants. No matter how carefully they have been
managed, they must have a process of hardening
prior to planting in deep, rich soil in the position
chosen. Sow out of doors twice, or
' ven thrice, between the first week
.md the end of May.

(S.- Dwarf French Beans.— Amateurs

and cottagers cnnnnonly fail with
these delicious Beans for two reasons.
One, they will sow too early ; and
two, they will grow too thickly.
The plant is exceedingly tender, and
must not he sown imtil May, or the
youngsters will be yellowed, and it
is quite possible they will never
recover. Then they are of strong,
branching habit, and should always
be 15 inches, and better 18 inches,
asunder in rows 3 feet apart If
they are to develop their full capacity
lor fruiting. H. J.

FLOWER GARDEN.

T

POLYANTHUSES .\S STREAMSIDE FLOWERS AT CLANDON PARK.

to the third week in May I consider to be the best
time to both plant and divide the rhizomes. The
water then is more perceptibly rising in tempera-
ture week by week, and this wUl be congenial
to quicker root development. Later planting may
be safely practised, but such does not give the plants
the same opportunity of re-estabUshing themselves
before the autumn sets in. I should never attempt
to plant or divide after August draws to a close.
If by any chance seedlings are noted during the
summer months, it is better to mark these and
leave them until the following spring before in
any way attempting removal. If during the
month of August or early September any seed
should be seen floating upon the surface of the
water, it may be secured and at once sown in mud,
then raised in a temperate house. After the
bursting of the seed-pods the seeds only float
twenty-four hours, then sink to the bottom.

James Hudson, V.M.H.
Gnnr.ershitry House Gardens, Acton.
[To be cnntinued.)

size just mentioned. Always use a compost of
loam, leaf-mould and sand, and if there are wood-
ashes at command, add some.

Maincrop Carrots. — These ought to be sown
this month, and those who labour on an unkind
soil and desire to produce the 3-feet, perfectly
straight, even roots which gladden the eye at
shows must bore for them. Make holes 3 feet or
more in depth, according to the variety, fill with
light, open compost, sow three seeds in the top,
and thin to one plant in due course. Most of
us, however, do not aspire to such heights as
this, but are contented with medium-sized roots
of fine quality. We therefore prepare a quarter
that was well manured for the previous crop by
deep digging, and every effort is made to ensure
friability. Then drills are drawn i foot asunder,
and at intervals of from 4 inches to 8 inches groups
of three seeds are dropped, to be reduced to one plant
when it can easily be seen which is the best.

Beetroots. — This is one of the tender salad
vegetables which are best sown in bulk in May,

PRIMROSES AND POLY-
ANTHUSES.

HERE is no need to
extol the merits of these
beautiful spring flowers,
though it may be help-
ful to point out which
are the more beautifui
ways of employing them. They
are good in any garden use, but best of .ill
where they may hive a place to themselves,
as in some quiet space of woodland, such as
is the natural home of the wild Primrose. This
is especially the case with the large yellow and
white Bunch Primroses, which, in such a place,
can be used in bold massings. The finest effect
is obtained where the woodland adjoins the
garden and the Primrose place is reached through
a planting of dark-leaved shrubs, such as Box,
Yew and Portugal Laurel ; and the path, a
little winding, suddenly discloses the garden of
Primroses, witl an effect that is little short of
astonishing.

These fine things are not at their best till the third
week of April, or, in late seasons, till the earlier
days of May, when their effect is all the better for
the near trees being in thin, early leaf. The coloured
Primroses are better fitted for general garden use,
and are ail the more valuable if carefully sorted
for tints that harmonise together, thus forming
a number of separate groups.

April 19, iqij]

THE GARDEN.

195

Within the last fifty years we have come to look
upon the dear, homely Primrose as a national
emblem of deep significance to a now immense
band of patriotic people, and in memory (for it was
liis chosen flower) of the statesman who conceived
the idea and raised the structm-e of Empire for
Britain. It stands to us as the sign of the constant
labour .md the united effort, all over the land,
ol those who hold to thi' best traditions and the
noblest interests of our home country and its
closelv-linked Overseas Dominions, .^mong those
who from the beginning have given untiring labour
lo the truly national and patriotic work of the
Primrose League, it is only
litting to name, iu all
reverence and honour, the
late Lady Dorothy Ncvill ;
uid all the more fitting in
these pages because of her
uluilc-hearted sympathy with
all the best interests and
ilevi'lopments of horticulture,
(treatly as Lady Dorothy is
regretted among her immense
I irrle of friends, her gracious
and cheery presence bad
become one of the bright
features if the fortnightly
meetings of the Koyal
Hortiruitural Society, from
which it can be ill-
spared and will be sorely
missed. G. J.

early bloomer, this year flowering in February.
It is a native of Central Asia, and was introduced
in 1877. The open flowers have been likened to
those of a Water Lily. In its variety aurea the
ground colour is golden yellow.

T. Batalinii. — This is a beautiful dwarf species
from .\sia Minor, and is an excellent plant for a
choice nook in the rock garden. It has long,
taperuig leaves, and the flowers, the petals of which
are pointed, are of a beautiful soft pale yellow,
and are deliciously fragrant. Its blooms are about
three inches long, and the plants flower in March
,and .\pri!. It is one of the daintiest of Tulips.

SOME GOOD TULIP
SPECIES.

Nowadays, when countless
seedling Tulips have been
raised — early - flowering,
medium and late — it must be
admitted that the brilliant
self colours and mixed hues
in almost endless diversity
are most effective in beds
and borders, while a great
advance has been made in
the past decade in the Cottage
and Darwin sections. Showy,
however, as are many of
these named varieties, the
true species are at least as
fascinating, and the flower-
loving amateur who once
takes up the culture of the
latter is not likely to regret
his enterprise. The following
are handsome species, well
worthy of extended cultiva-
tion, and have flowered well
for the past few years :

Tulipa clusiana. — This
was described and illustrated
on page 171, .\pril 5 issue, and
referred to in detail.

T. kaufmanniana holds a foremost position
among the many rare and beautiful species of
Tulip. It is certainly one of the handsomest
of the early-flowering species. Its broad petals
reflex considerably, and the flowers often attain
a diameter of 5 inches. In colour the blossom is
creamy white, while the base is golden orange,
this being sometimes barred with carmine-red.
The buds are tinted externally with crimson,
ft grows to a height of about a foot, and is a very

A BEAUTIFUL GROUP OF THE WATER-LILY .,TULIP__(TULIPA KAUFMANNL\XA)

need not again be T. tubergetliana. — This was foimd on the high
mountains of Central Bokhara about ten years ago ;
it is without doubt one of the finest Tulips
yet introduced, and has flowered splendidly. Its
immense cup-shaped blossoms are of intense scarlet,
and often measure as much as 6 inches across.
At the base of the pet Js there is a black blotch.
The flower-stem is erect and tall, and the glaucous
leaves are of great size. It is very robust, perfectly
hardy and does well in English gardens.

T. saxatilis. — This, a native of Crete, is a
charming Tulip, and the earliest of its race to bloom_

the plants often opening early in February. The
blossoms are faint rose in colour, with a base of
deep golden yellow in the interior. The flower-
stems are about eight inches in height, and the
blooms are about three inches long. One drawback
to it is that it i? sometimes a shy flowerer.

T. gesneriana is the best known of the Tulip
species, and is largely grown in gardens. It is
very hardy and does not require annual litting,
as do most of the species, but succeeds well if left
in the ground year after year. Its form major is
a very fine flower of large size, and a bed of this
in full bloom is a gorgeous sight. The colour of

the blossoms is a glowing

crimson.

T. flava is a noble Tulip
■lud one of the latest to
flower. It often attains a
height of close upon 3 feet,
and has stout stems and
leaves. The blossoms are
about five inches in length,
with pointed, slightly reflexing
petals of a clear yellow colour.
It is one of the finest of the
Tulip species, very strong
and free in growth, and of
the easiest possible culture.
Towering above its fellows,
with the sun shining on its
bright flowers, it presents a
lovely picture.

T. Greigii. — This is a
native of Turkestan, and is
one of the most gorgeous
of all Tulips. Its large, goblet-
shaped flowers are brilliant
scarlet, and there is no Tulip
that can excel it in vivid
colouring. Its broad, glaucous
leaves are irregularly striped
and spotted with purple,
which gives it a distinct
character. In a garden when
twenty or more blossoms
are expanded simultaneously
the effect is superb.

T. celsiana, also known as
r. australis, is a native of
Persia. The flowers, which
are yellow, tinged with red on
the outside, droop before they
expand. The plants bloom in
May, and frequent meadows
in the chalky moimtains al
an elevation of nearly seven
thousand feet. The species
is, apparently, closely allied to
T. sylvestris.

T. elegans is a very handsome

Tulip. The growth is strong

and the flower of the richest

crimson, while it is even larger than the showy T.

Greigii. The petals of the flower narrow to a point.

It is supposed to be a natural hybrid between T.

acuminata andT. suaveolens, but, if so, is decidedly

superior to either parent. In the variety alba the

petals are white, with a narrow margin of crimson.

T. ixioides. — This is held to be a form of T.

gesneriana. Its blossoms are of a soft canary

yellow, and in the interior is a deep black base,

which is very effective and renders the flower

distinct from others of its clas? with yellow blooms,

It grows to a height of about two feet,

196

THE GAKDEN.

[April 19, 1913.

T. kolpakowskiana.— This is a native of
Turkestan and a very handsome species, flowering
in AprQ and May. It is one of the most variable
in colouring, hardly two bulbs producing blossoms
of the same tint. The flowers are often yellow
flushed with scarlet, some are pure scarlet, and the
charming blending of hues in a large group is very
attractive. The plant has lanceolate leaves from
5 inches to i foot in length, and the flower-buds are
pointed.

T. linifolia is a very pretty Tulip, with narrow
leaves and flowers of an intensely dazzling scarlet,
which are furnished with pointed petals. The flowers
are very lovely and second to none in brilliance.

T. strangulata maculata has soft primrose
yellow flowers with a conspicuous black centre.
There are two other forms of
T. strangulata, namely, primulina.
a self primrose yellow without
the black blotch, and picta,
primrose yellow, shaded with
rose on the outside of the
petals.

T. ostrowskiana, a native

of Turkestan, is a graceful
plant attaining a height of
18 inches. The leaves are
narrow, and the flowers, which
are each about five inches in
diameter, are of a brilliant scarlet.
Wyndham Fitzherbert. ■

FRUIT GARDEN.

it is quite clear that thousands of spores must fall
upon this plant from its affected neighbours, and
the natural inference is that there is something
in the sap of such a plant which is inimical to the
growth of the fungus spores.

Such phenomena as these suggest a possible
method of dealing with fungous attacks, which
has certainly some element of hopefulness in it
Unfortunately, very little is at present known
concerning the substances which can be intro-
duced into the sap of plants which will not
be harmful to them, and in addition will be toxic
to fungi.

One or two facts closely related to the manuring
of plants are, however, pretty well established.
In the first place, a very luxuriant growth caused

METHODS OF COMBAT
ING WOUND FUNGI
ON FRUIT TREES.

IN a previous article (page loo,
issue February 22) reference
was made to the alarming
increase in the prevalence
and virulence of the attacks
of wound fungi on fruit
trees, and the necessity of pro-
tecting all the wounds which can
possibly be protected was insisted
upon. In this article it is pro-
posed to treat with another aspect
of the subiect, viz., the possibility
of feeding the trees so as to
render the sap in leaf and in the
wood toxic to the fungi. One of
the first facts that strikes a think-
mg person when considering the
ciuestion of fungi. us growths on
all sorts of vegetation is that,
broadly speaking, each fungus con-
fines its attacks to the one
particular host plant. When one considers the
enormous quantity of fungus spores produced,
this becomes all the more marvellous, since it is
absolutely certain that many spores fall on quite
different races to that to which the particular
host plant belongs. It must necessarily follow
that there is some resistant quality in the sap of
these different races of plants which prevents
the fungus spore from growing to any degree,
and, on the other hand, there must be some affinity
between the fungus and its particular host plant.
There is not only this phenomenon, but another,
even more strange, which can be often observed.
In a set of plants, one more sturdy and vigorous
than the rest, but not necessarily coarse and
overgrown, will be found to be quite free from
disease, while all the rest may be attacked. Again,

THE EARLY-l-LOWERING TULIPA SAXATILIS, NATIVE O

by heavy dressings of nitrogenous manures un-
balanced by phosphates and potash almost invari-
ably falls a prey to any fungus disease to which
its race is subject. For example, the worst attack
of Cladosporiunr fulvum (the Tomato rust) to be
found in the greenhouse is generally on the plants
most highly fed with nitrogenous manures ; and,
again, fruit-growers are finding to tlieir bitter
cost that the dreaded American Gooseberry
mildew is invariably worse where the manure
has been most liberally supplied. On the other
hand, to take only the case of the Tomatoes,
plants supplied with a sufficiency of potash are
noticeably much more free from disease.

Unfortunately, at present it has not been found

that potash has much beneficial effect hi checking

' disease in fruit trees. It has been tried for the

silver - leaf disease, which attacks Plums and
Apples, with little or no result. Some experi-
menters, however, claim to have succeeded by the
use of superphosphate. The writer has not himself
seen these experiments, but he has it on very good
authority, and the results are described as very
good indeed, plantations being quite cleared of
this nasty disease. It is believed that the best
time to sow the superphosphate is in the late summer
or early autumn, August or September, before the
leaves fall from the trees, and the quantit\ required
would not exceed 5cwt. per acre ; but the best
quality, giving the highest percentage of soluble
phosphates, should be used.

Several additional experiments are now in pro-
gress to endeavour to prove the truth or otheiwise
of the conclusions previously
arrived at ; but the results cannot
be ascertained till the foliage of
the trees comes out this spring-
time and summer, when it is
hoped definite information will be
secured whether this treatment
really effects a cure for sUver-
leaf .'\nother substance which
has been tested for silver leaf,
but which has up to the present
given very varying results, is
sulphate of iron. It is to be
supposed that the first experi-
menters, knowing that it had a
good fungicidal action, endeavoured
to get it taken up in the sap of
the trees for the purpose of deal-
ing with the fungus, whose
mycelium is in the inside of the
tree, in the wood and bast cells.
For this purpose the well-known
practice, so often advised for
combating silver-leaf, of boring
into the main stem of the tree
and inserting finely - ground sul-
phate of iron, was proposed. As
stated above, however, the results
obtained have been very diverse,
some experimenters claiming to
have quite cured the affected
trees, while others could see no
good results following the proc?ss.
It is extremely important that
careful experiments sliould be made
to end?avour to discover a method
by means of which the active
fungicidal properties of the sul-
phate could be rendered assimil-
able by the tree sap, and so be
conveyed all over the tree to act
F CRETE. as an active agent in checking

the germination of any chance
spores which may fall upon leaf or branch, and
also to resist the advances and growth of any
disease which may be present.

Another method of using the sulphate of iron
for combating the various fungoid diseases is to
sow it round the base of the trees, forking it into
the soil, the idea being to get it taken up into the
tree by the medium of the roots when in solution
in the soil water. As before, this method seems
to hav4 met in some cases with but scant success,
while in others it seems to have accomplished a
great improvement in the trees affected. At
present the superphosphate manuring seems to be
the most successful method, as well as tlie simplest,
in dealing with these wound diseases, and it is in
this direction we turn most hopefully in our battle
with these insidious foes. F". W. Hammond.

April 19, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

197

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

THE CULTIVATION OF ANNUAL POPPIES.

A S each April comes round, my thoughts
/% turn unerringly to the summer show

/ % of Shirley Poppies that brighten the
/ % garden in delightful art shades of
A ^ colour. Surely no flowers could be

more easily grown — a handful of
seed scattered over a prepared plot of ground,
and very little attention is required. There are
just one or two salient points, however, to bear
in mind. Seedling Poppies never transplant well,
and in consequence the seed should be sown in
ihe places where the plants are to flower. It is
a common mistake lo sow the seeds as thickly as
Mustard and Cress, with tlie result that the- plants
are weak and spindly and the
rtciwers of poor quality. To sow
thinly and to thin early are both
of the utmost importance, and
it is a good plan to mix the fine
seed with sand, and then to sow
both sand and seed together. B\
this means an even distribution oi
seed will be ensured. Before s 'W-
ing, the sted-bed should be well
prepared. The soil should be forked
over and the surface left fairly
lirm and even after being raked
over. The seedlings should eventu-
ally be thinned out to 6 inches
or 8 inches apart, so that side shoot-^
may develop and carry flowers.

Not only are Shirley l'oppi<'S so
valuable lor colour effect in the
garden, but they are welcome as
cut flowers for table decoration.
When used for this purpose, how-
ever, the flowers should be cut
in the bud state and allowed to
cjpen indoors, when they are found
to last much longer than if cut
when fully expanded. Flower-buds
cut in the evening and placed in
water indoors will be found wide
open the next morning, to the
astonishment of those who are
imaware of this quality.

The Shirley Poppy is an admir-
able subject for the sunny garden
and for semi- wild places or open
woodland, such as that depicted in the accom-
panying illustration. The same may be said of
Papaver Rhajas, the common Corn Poppy, of
which the Sliirley Poppy is but one of its many
cultivated forms. The Opium Poppy, Papaver
somniferum, and its varieties require the
same treatment as that advised for the Shirley
Poppies. Spartan.

soon grow to the flowering stage, and continue
to bear blossoms until the end of October, or
when frost comes in November. A good com-
post must be used in which to raise the seed-
lings, and when the latter are large enough to
handle, prick them out 3 inches apart in a light
compost in boxes, and still retain them in a warm
frame. From the boxes transplant them in a
cool frame or one temporarily constructed. If
the young plants are grown under cool conditions
during .^pril and the early part of May, they will
be in tine condition for the flower garden at the
end of May. The following colours may be
obtained : Pink, carmine, rose, scarlet, white.

way and carefully hardening them diu-ing the
fortnight or so prior to planting in the flower-
beds they will soon become established and fill
the beds, flowering freely. Small, puny specimens
are rarely satisfactory.

Zinnias. — Unless the single-flowered varieties
find special favour, 1 strongly recommend culti-
vators to grow the double-flowered. The latter,
when well grown, are really splendid for bedding-
out purposes. Zinnia elegans grandiflora robusta
plenissima is a charming variety. The foliage
is so robust, a good point, as very often the foliage
of Zinnias is sparse and the plants present a ragged
appearance. Slugs an- partial to these plants while

SHIRLEY POPPIES IX .\N OPK.N WOODL.\.\U SP.\CE.

THREE BEAUTIFUL ANNUALS.

The three beautiful half-hardy annuals. Phlox
Drummondii, Browallia elata and the double-
flowered Zinnia, are very effective in the flower
garden when the plants are well grown.

Phlox Drummondii has many charming colours.
During the past ten years the improvement m
the strains has been most marked. The plants
in these days are more compact in habit and may
be used entirely for filling flower-borders. They

marbled, rose with white eye ; purple, white
eye ; white, dark eye ; scarlet, white eye ; and
blue, white eye.

Browallia elata. — This is an exceedingly
beautiful annual, and should be grown in all
flower gardens. The plants are generally grown
and flowered in a greenhouse, but will do equally
well in the flower garden if planted there the first
week in June. The plants attain a height of about
eighteen inches, and bear white, blue and violet
blue flowers respectively. Sow the seeds thinly
in boxes or pans, and place the latter in a warm
frame or on a greenhouse shelf. Transplant the
resultant seedlings in boxes at a distance of
2 inches apart, and still retain them under glass.
It is very important that the seedlings be nursed
in a genial atmosphere during their early stages,
and when taken from the greenhouse they should
have the shelter of a frame until the early part of
May. Cy building up fine bushy plants in this

in the seedling stage, and I have often found that
where young plants have been attacked, they rarely
recover normal conditions. Raise the seedlings
in a temperature of about 60° and continue to
grow them in a warm place, but guard them
from slugs. The soil for the seedlings must be
rich, but not containing any fresh organic manure.
The manure must be rotted and passed through
a half-mch mesh sieve, so that the particles vfill
mix with the soil. In such a compost the roots
will cling to the manure when the plants are put
out finally. Prepare the flower-bed in a similar
manner, and when the plants are growing freely
hi it give a few waterings of weak, clear soot-
water ; then both leaves and flowers will assume
a richer colour. The plants grow about eighteen
inches high. Sow the seeds without delay.
There are about eight distinct colours, including
Fire King, scarlet, and Queen Victoria, pure white,
with flowers 4 inches or more across. .\von.

198

THE GARDEN.

[April 19, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

Pleasure Grounds.

Mowing. — With the warm weather the grass
'.'.•i;l be growing freely, and to keep it in good order
:i weekly mowing will be necessary. If left a fort-
night the bottom will be found to be turning yeUow,
especially where the grass is very thick, and if a
sliarp frost occurs immediately after mowing, it will
lo.'ik bad for three or four weeks.

Sowing Grass Seed. — If necessary, bare patches
may still be sown with seed ; in fact, the seed ger-
iBinates much quicker and better now than at any
rime, though it is wise to try to choose a time when
the wind is not too drying.

Gravelling. — Any gravelling that has to be done
s;iould be proceeded v\'ith at once, breaking up the old
gravel with picks or forks according to the nature
of the surface, levelling this over nicely before
proceeding to lay the new gravel. Too heavy
:t dressing is quite as bad as too little ; in the latter
case the rough stones soon show through the surface,
while in the former case it is apt to be soft and
spongy during wet weather. It seems unnecessary
to add that it should be rolled well before being
walked upon, following this up with a thoroughlv
good rolling in after the first heavy rain.

The Rose Garden.

The Beds. — Now that all the pruning is done,
the beds should be carefully edged and the
surface soil pricked over with a fork, making it
as fine as possible in the operation — this to facilitate
hoeing, which should be done regularly from now
onwards.

Spraying. — Before the buds get too far advanced
it is advisable to give all the plants a good spraying
with paraifin emulsion, this acting as a preventive
to both mildew and green fly. Some may prefer
other insecticides or fungicides, but this does not
matter, the point being to prevent rather than to
cure these enemies, and by making an early start
there is a much better chance of getting the upper
hand.

Plants Under Glass.

Humea elegans. — This tine decorative plant
is now thrownig up its flower-head, and should be
fed regularly with liquid manure. Artificials,
if given, must be in very small quantities, or a
loss of foliage may result ; the roots, being very
fine, are easily injured by an excess of water or
manure. Seed should now be sown for next season's
plants, using a shallow pan and fine soil for sowing,
while an intermediate temperature will suit them
best until such time as the seedlings are large
enough to prick off.

Zonal Pelargoniums, rooted in February in 3-inch
pots, should now be advanced enough for potting on
into 4-inch or 4j-inch pots, adding a little bone-meal
to the compost when potting. Pinch out the point
of each plant when nicely rooted in the larger
pots, and so induce a bushy habit of growth.

Caladiums, being nicely rooted, may be potted
into the pots in which they are to remain during
the summer, this being desirable before they
become at all potbound. A very light mixture
of fairly lumpy peat, leaf-soil, loam and sand,
with a little charcoal added, suits them well.-
Plenty of heat is necessary if good large and well-
coloured leaves are desired, and if the water is
at all likely to discolour or form a sediment on the
foliage, the plants should not be syringed overhead,
but a good moist atmosphere must be maintained
by spraying between the pots, while shading
is necessary during bright sunshine.

Sweet Peas in Pots. — These will now be taking
an glmost unlimited supply of water during bright
weather, and on no account must they be allowed
to suffer. .\s soon as the first blooms commence
to open, liquid and artificial manures may be given
trequently, but these must be kept in abeyance
till the buds are very forward, or they are apt
to drop ; also too high a temperature must be
guarded against.

The Vegetable Garden.

Salsify. — This deep-rooting vegetable may now
be sown, selecting a piece of ground that has been
deeply dug or trenched. If sown in rows 18 inches
apart, the plants may be thinned to about one
foot apart, which will allow ample space for their
development .

Scorzonera may also be sown and should be
given similar treatment to that advised for Salsify.

Onions. — Autunm-sown Onions should now
be large enough for their final thinning. If large
specimens are desired, they should be left at least
I foot apart, but for ordinary utility purposes
6 inches should be sufficient. Plants raised under
glass should be gradually hardened off preparatory
to planting out at an early date.

Fruits Under Glass.

Melons. — Continue to sow and plant Melons
according to the requirements and convenience
of the establishment, arranging the various batches
to come in at a time when they are likely to be in
most demand.

Hot-Beds. — In a recent calendar I advised the
sowing of a batch of seeds for cultivating in frames,
these to be planted early in May, so that no time
should now be lost in preparing material and making
up hot-beds to receive them. Such material
should be turned and mixed once or twice before
making up.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Strawberries. — .^fter a good hoeing through, a
commencement may be made to bed down the early
varieties. By doing it thus early, long strawy
litter may be used, and what manurial properties
there may be in it will be washed into the soil,
thus leaving it in a light, clean condition for pro-
tecting the fruits from dirt, &c. If left too late
it is apt to cause the fruits to rot, and the use of
clean straw is to be preferred.

Apricots. — These being the earliest to bloom
in good warm positions, the trees may be ready for
thinning the fruit — this when the weather condi-
tions have been favourable to a heavy set of fruit.
It is not wise to take off too many fruits at once,
but when several are set in a clump it is certainly
advisable to thin them to one or two, taking off
others when in a more advanced state.
TnoM.ts Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.
Sowing Hardy Annuals. — Now is the time to

sow hardy annuals in the open. The ground should
be deeply dug, but only lightly manured, especially
for the dwarfer sorts and for Poppies. A good
tilth is also essential to success, and the common
error of sowing too thickly should be avoided.
Another frequent mistake is to bury the seeds
too deeply, and when they fail to germinate
the seedsman is blamed. Where there are masses
of English and Spanish Irises, a good plan is to
sow some of the easier-grown annuals, such as
Poppies, Candytufts, or NigeUas, among them
for successional bloom.

Sowing Mignonette. — I believe in sowing
Mignonette under glass, pricking it off into fibrous
loam, and then planting it out about six inches
apart ; but where it is desired to sow it in the
open, now is the time to do so, and I would venture
to give three hints regarding its culture — manure
pretty heavily, give a little lime, and coat the seeds
with red lead as a protection from birds.

Weed-Killer. — Although somewhat expensive
in the first instance, yet, all things considered,
gravel can be kept clean more economically by
weed-kUler than by any other means. From now
till the first week in May is the best time to apply
it. It is best to do this after a moderate fall of
rain. There are many kinds on the market, but
we find Climax highly satisfactory.

The Rose Garden.

Suckers. — K.xcept where Roses are on their own
roots, a sharp look-out must be kept for suckers,
as they soon rob the rightful owner of the ground.
Cut them off just under the surface of the soil.

Rose Grubs. — Several varieties of sawfly attack
Roses from time to time. Some of them can be
eradicated by spraying with arsenate of lead ;
but there .are two, Lyda inanita and Bleiinnranip.i
pusdla, the larva- of which ensconce thrinsthrs
in the curled-up leaves and defy the efforts of the
sprayer. Hand picking is the only cure for these,
and a watch should be kept for them. When

detected, the affected leaves should be promptly
picked off and burnt.

The Wall Garden.
Transplanting. — Where young stock — either

[ seedlings or rooted cuttings — are intended to fill
up blanks or to take the place of present occupants,
they should be planted forthwith, so as to get
established before the conditions become rather
dry. If possible, a stone should be removed
where the plant is to be placed, and some good
loam inserted in the aperture for the plant to feed

j on. When the planting is completed, the whole

: of the newly-planted stock should be thoroughly
watered by means of the syringe.

t Sowing Seed. — A good many of the plants
siutable for wall gardens can be raised from seed
sown in the future home of the plants. The seeds
should be mixed with some fine soil, which should
then be well moistened and pressed into the inter-
stices which the futtu'e plants are to occupy. If
dry weather sets in, give the soil an occasional
spraying in the afternoons, at least till germination
takes place.

Plants Under Glass.

Perpetual-Flowering Carnations. — The earliest
batch of these will now be almost ready for their
final shift. Seven-inch pots are generally suitable,
but vigorous sorts like Britannia and Mrs. Burnett
may require a size larger. These plants are by
no means fastidious as to soil, but good fibrous
yellow loam, with about a third part each of old
Mushroom manure and Oak or Beech flaky leaf-
mould, with a good dash of sand, will give good
results, other points receiving due attention.
Water carefully at all times, but especially after
repotting.

Celosias. — A batch of these from a good strain
of seed is a valuable asset. They require a brisk
temperature and a fairly rich soil, and should
have abmidance of light.

Amaranthus tricolor. — This inexpensive annual
makes an excellent conservatory plant. Seed
sown in a little warmth now and grown on liberally
wUl be found very useful in the early autumn.
A. tricolor splendens is an improvement on the
type.

Fruits' Under Glass.

Strawberries. — Plants that have finished fruit-
ing need not be thrown away. If they are hardened
off and then planted out in well-prepared soil,
they should give excellent results next season in
the open air.

Watering Vines. — This work should receive
close attention, especially where there is no outside
border. Liquid manure should be applied once
or twice during the season.

The Kitchen Garden.

Peas. — This is the leading summer crop, and it
should receive much attention. Stake promptly
with Beech, Elm, Hazel, or Spruce branches
if available ; if not, sheep netting may be em
ployed. Where natural stakes are bare at the
bottom, smaU twigs should be inserted to prevent
the plants from bending over, after which they
never do so well. Sow successions as the previous
sowing appears above the ground.

Planting Parsley. — Where a batch was raised
in heat, it should now be fit for planting out. The
ground should have a dressing of soot forked into
it prior to planting. Plant in rows about fifteen
inches apart, and from 9 inches to i foot apart in
the rows.

Turnips. — .-^ good sowing may now be made
on the open break, but I would still recommend
Milan Earlv Purple or White, the latter for
preference.

Planting Cabbages. — Those which were raised
under glass early in spring will now be ready for
planting out, and it will be well to use the trowel
instead of the dibber in carrying out the operation.
.A. Utile extra pains will have been taken with these,
and they should lift with balls which cannot be
got into a dibbled hole without cramping the roots.

Cauliflowers similarly raised may be treated in the
same way, but should, in addition, have a ring of soot
placed round them.

Cutting Asparagus. — Inexperienced hands are
apt to work mischief in this operation by cutting
the roots of the plants. If the hooked Asparagus--
knife is used, the danger will be obviated.

Charles Comfort.
Broomficld (iardens. Davidson's Mains. .Midlothian.

Apkii. 19. igi7f

THE (LVliDluN.

199

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— 77(.- J-Attfu. nitfinis tu
miikr Thk UAltitKN h'-//>ful fn nil readers icho desire assist'
ance, no mutter tvhat the hrune/i of gardeninq may he. and
with thai object will make a apeciai feature oj the "Answers
10 Correspondents " columns. A/l communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only.
anil addressed to the liDlTOK of THK (iAKl»KS. 20. Taristock
Street, Covent (iarden. London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designaiUm he
may desire to he used in the paper. When more than one
qu^ry is sent, each should be on ti separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-uool, and flowering
shoots, where possible. sltouUt be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of th? plant. Letters
iin huniness should he sent to the PUBLiSHKit

FLOWER GARDEN.

INJURY TO DAFFODILS {H. If. U' ). -Vour IJallodil-
are attacked hv iflwDmis, and wv doubt whctlior a curr
is possibk-. for the pests, which ar<' insidi' tlie l)un)s.
cannot be reached without damaging the biUbs inort- tlian
they arc now. The ^oil i^ probably infi'^ted with the
pests, and no <ioutt they iiave entered the bulbs from that
source. A heavy dressing of kainit as soon as the buDc^
are lifted woiihl be a help towards getting th*- better of
them, and an even greater help would be the growing
of some other nun-susceptible plants for two or three years
un the ground thf I'alfodil- no« occupy before they are
planted again.

ROMNEYA COULTERI FAILING (Miss ('. K. A.).—
It is ditficult to >ugge^t a reason for your Romneya L'oultcri
tailing to open its tlowcrs. Possibly it is growing in a shady
position, or it may have become dry at the roots when th ■
buds were forming. It would be a good plan to examine
the soil about the roots and sec what condition it is in.
If it looks as if it i-s likely to I'ecome dry, towards June
arrange to give a copious wat'-ring occasionally. It is
not necessary to give new soil or manure now, as you
say that the plant is (|uite vigorr>u? ; but if you give water
when the buds are forniiuLr. a little weak mamin.'-water
may be fiivcu with advantage. Do not allow the roots
to be interfered with by other iilunt<.

THE GREENHOUSE.

INJURY TO OLEANDER {Colchester).'-\\v can find no
fuugus or iuMct on tbf Oleander to account for the trouble.
The stem is dead and the bark brown, but tin- root seems
to be perfectly healthy. Is it at all likely that the plant
has been exposed to frost 'i It ha> that appearance.
These plants will bear a decree or two without much harm,
but httle more.

SCHIZANTHUS {G. fl.).— We can discover no Ciiuse
to dccount for the peculiar tufted gro^\th on the
Schizauthus, and think it must be inherited ; that is to
say, the seed may have been saved from a plant showing
that peculiarity. The young plants sent appear as if
they will grow out of it. You do not say whetlier many
of your plants are as bad as the large one sput. If they
are like the small ones, we do not think they will give
much trouble.

GERANIUMS AND VIOLETS FOR INSPECTION (C. .4.).
— There is no fungus present on the Geraniums sent. \Ve
are inclined to think the trouble is due to the temperature
and moisture conditions not being suitable for them
compared with the supply of light. The colour of the
Violets IS, no doubt, due to their having had very dull
light during the time they have been developing, and
they have probably become very damp, too, judging from
their appearani.e. Is the drainage good ?

HYACINTHS FAILING {R. B.).— The Hyacinths are
very badly attacked by the bulb mite, and this has caused
the destruction of the roots. It is important that bulbs
should be planted in fresh soil and in clean pots, and
examination of the bulbs for this minute pest should be
made with care when bulbs are purchased. Many of
the bulbs lately imported have been badly attacked by
this pest. Unfortunately, no method of destroying it
can be relied upon to do this completely, but fumigation
with carbon bisulphide is the best thing.

DECORATIVE CHRYSANTHEMUMS {Amateur).'~Th^
ten varieties mentioned in your query are well-known
decorative Chrysanthemums,' and in consequence the
question of stopping the plants with the object of pro-
curing crown buds does not apply 10 these plants. They
should be grown to develop a free display of medium-
sized flowers, and with this object in view should be
stopped now and at each successive 6 inches of growth.
Stop for the last time .it the end of June, and from that
point grow on to tlie terminal buds. Thin out these to
suit your requirements.

AMARYLLIS LEAF FOR INSPECTION {B. B.).—
The Amarylli-s leaf is very badly infested with scale,
which may be got rid of by sponging each leaf on both
sm-faces with a strong solution of soft soap and wat«r.
These pests have such a firm hold on the plant that it

is probable two or throe spongings at intervals of ten
days or a fortnight will be necessary in order to thorougldy
eradicate them. The Abntilon, too, must be served in
the same way. In the case of this, it may be quite possible,
without injuring the ]>lant, to cut off some of the worst
leaves and burn them, a* *be plant will soon grow away
again. With regard to the number of leaves to be

SOC I ETI ES.

removed, you mus
itself.

: be guided by the condition of the plant

FRUIT GARDEN.

PEACH TREES WITH STRONG SHOOTS {E. H.).~

S'-ciii'.: thnt you lifted ymir Pe;i(ii trees last autiunn
and that you ha\e cut back the >-troic: shoots, we antici-
pate that the -jrowth of young shoots from these cut-
back ones will be of moderate strentrth only this summer,
and will be in L'ood condition for bearing full crops ne\t
year. There is no other way of preventing this excess
of growth in the brandies except by lifting and root-
pruning. In Th<' course of the summer side shoots
will grow out of the young shoots first formed: these
should be pinched back to one leaf from their base.
The young shoot> first formed should not be stopped,
but allowed to grow thi'ir full length, as these are the
shoots which will hi'ar'fniit next year.

PEACH TREE ATTACKED BY SILVER-LEAF (R. W.).
-Vou have done (|uilr ri'jlit in removing the diseased
branch, which is attacked by the disease known as silver-
leaf. If you lun e r-ut the branch out beyond the point
at which it slu>ws a brown stain in the wood, you w'll
probably have --topped the spread of the disease; but
the rest' of the tree may be infected, and then the best
thing is to cut the tree out completely and plant another, i
The disease is due to the fungus Stereum purpureum.
am! no eur<- is known. Trees attacked rarely recover,
and after death the fungus fruits appear. Infection i>-
by spores, and the fungus get.s in by a wound. X\\ wounds
should be painted witli Stnckholni tar as soon as made.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

PLANTING POTATOES (.1. r;.).— We think you have
prepared one halt "f the plot in an excellent way,
(■specially for early Potatoes. The second half of the
plot, which has already been dug and not manured, will,
we pre-*inne. be planted chiefly with later varieties. The
Factor is one of the best. We should dig the cow-manure
into the ground, row-manure is cool in itself, and not
good for the sets to come into contact with in its raw state ;
but incorporated and mixed with light soil it is excellent.
.V light dressing of artificial manure could be given with
great advantage, sown among the plants before the first
moulding up takes place. This should be done in showery
weather. Provided the manure is short and well rotted,
the old-fashioned way of placinc it in the furrows and
planting I'otatoc-^ on top answers very well, especially
with later \arietics.

PREPARING ROUGH GROUND FOR POTATOES
{J. C. i).).— -You say the ground is now covered with
coarse grass, the top turves from which «ould not be of
much use for potting soil. However, you could stack
some of the best. The best way of dealing with such land
is to trench it 2\ feet deep, burying the grass and turf
it is growing in 15 inches deep, and picking out every
particle of the'roots of the Nettles as the digging pro-
ceeds, or the ground will soon become foul with them again.
In trenching, care should be taken that the best of the soil
is kept nearest the surface. As soon as the trenching
is finished, plant in furrows or rows in the usual way.
Do not plant under turves, and do not plough, but trench.
The effect will last for years. Rhubarb does well in
partial shade, provided the soil is deep and well manured ;
also Leeks and Horse-radish. Seakale does fairly well,
also the summer and autumn Cabbage tribe ; but those
vegetables which have to stand the winter to provide a
spring supply must not be planted in a shady place,
as they would be too soft to stand the winter.

MISCELLANEOUS.

FUNGUS DISEASE OF HYACINTHS (J. .S.).— The
name printed Pythium burganum should, as you suggest,
read P. de baryanum. It may be added that eelworms,
bulb mite-;, and the fungi Fusarium bulbigenum and
Botrytis (Sclerotinia! appear very frequently to be sources
of failure in bulbs.

JUDGING SCHOOL GARDEN (School Garden).— It is too
early to judu'e a school garden, but it may encourage the
scholars a little. We should wait until the seedlings are
through and thinning has been done. Then give points
for : Order and neatness, 10 maximum ; paths and
edgings, 10 maximum ; straightness of lines, 10 raa.ximum ;
correctness of thinning. 10 maximum ; and best written
labels. 10 maximum. We do not see that you can do more
than this until it is possible to appraise the value of the
crops, when the judging should be done on a point basis
by an experienced gardener.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— J/. A. B.— Daffodils : J. B. M.

Ca mm (pale trumpet) and grandis (bicolor trumpet).^

A. P. i^.— Daffodils : 1, Barri Glitter: 2, Rugilobus ;

3, Cemuus puleher; 4, possibly Stella superba ; too much

withered to identify with accuracy. T. H. J. — Saxifraga

(Megasea) crassifolia.^ A. L P., LymnotUh. — 1, Erica

mediterranea : 2, E. m. alba. E. K. B., Wimbledon. —

Berberis Darwinii. A". G., Virqinia Water. — 1, Rhodo-
dendron Rhodora; 2, R. ferrugineum : 3, Cassinia fulvida;

4, Leucothoe Catesbffii. ir. F., Gambs. — Anthurium

scherzerianum, J. ./., Bellast. — 1, Maxillaria picta ;

2, Coelogyne cristata ; 3, Ada aurantiaca ■ 4. Davallia
canariense ; 5, Adiautum species.

THE CORNWALL DAFFODIL AND SPRING FLOWER

SOCIETY.

The annual show in connection with the above society
was held at Truro on the 8th and 9th inst., when there
was an excellent display of Daffodils and flowering shrubt .
The Rhododendrons, though excellent, were not quite
so good as usual, but other shrubs were very fine. The
weather was fine and visitors numerous, and the Hon.
John Boscawen and his statf of helpers had made exeiUent
arnin rements.

THB Daffodil C'lassks.

(ieni'rally speaking, these were well contested, the
flowiTs in most instances being fresh and good.

In Class 1. for thirty varieties of Daffodils in commerce,
any section, first prize went to Mrs, Soltan Symons,
Chaddlcwood. Plympton, for a beautiful lot, notabh-
among them being White well. White Lady, Treasure
Trove and Horace. In the second-prize group, staged by
Miss Clarice Vivian, Bosahan. St Martin, we specially
noticed Chaffinch and some beautiful blooms of Scarh-t
Eye.

For a similar class, except that varieties not ia commerce
were allowed. Lady .Margaret Boscawen was the only
exhibitor, staging a nice group of fresh blooms. Lorelei
(a beautiful white Lecdsii), Will Scarlet, Cornish Cnam
and Horace called for special mention.

In Class 3. for nine distinct varieties of trumpets as
defined in certain dimensions, there were three entries,
first honours falling to Mrs. Soltan Symons, who had lovely
flowers of Mme. de Graalf and Mrs. Morland Crosfleld.
Miss Clarice Vivian was a good second, her best variety
being Princess, a beautiful smooth trumpet variety and
almost white. Third prize went to Colonel the Hon,
M. K. Trefusis.

For six distinct varieties of incomparabilis there were
four entries. Sirs. Soltan Symons again coming to the
fron*. Miss Clarice Vivian, Lady Margaret Boscawen
and -Miss .Mabel C. S. Williams followed in the order
named.

For six Harris Miss Clarice Vivian was first, Stonechat
and Beacon being shown in fine form. Mrs. S. Symons
was second and iliss Mabel Williams third.

For six Leedsiis Jlrs. S. Symons secured premier honour^.
Miss Mabel Williams being second.

Miss Clarice Vivian was first out of seven competitors
for three Poets, staging beautiful blooms of Comus,
Cassandra and Horace.

Class 8, for fifteen distinct varictic^i. any section, was
well contested, and Mrs. S. Symons is to be congratulated
on securing the premier prize. Among her flowers we
noticed good blooms of Horac<' and Mme. de Graaff.
Miss C. C. Rogers. Burncoose. I'crranwcll, was ser^ond ;
and .Mr. F. W. Jetfcry, Lismore. lielston, third.

For sincle blooms the first prize winners were as follow :
Trumpet, Miss Mabel Williams, with Monarch: incom-
parabilis. Mrs. S. Symons. with Lady Margaret Boscawen :
Barri, Mrs. S. Symons. with Cavalier : Leedsii, Mrs.
S. Symons, with White Lady ; triandrus and cyclamineus
hybrids, Mrs. S. Symons, with Dorothy Kingsmill ;
aiid Poet. Miss Mabel Williams, with Cassan(6a. In
the foregoing classes, except Classes 1 and 2, flowers
grown from bulbs priced over 10s. each were excluded.

In Class 16, for fifteen varieties, any section, in com-
merce or not in commerce, there was a big fight between
Mr. J. C. Williams, Caerhayes Castle, and Mr. P. D.
Williams. Llanarth. the fonner coming first with a grand
lot shown under numbers, for which he was also awarded
the Royal Horticultural Society's silver Flora medal.
A fine Poet numbered 445 was about the best in the show,
and a lovely incomparabilis, X3, was also very fine. Indeed,
all were first-class. Mr. P. D. Williams in his second-
prize group had some of his under names, Moonbeam
(beautiful white). Pedestal. White Wax and Princess
calling for special mintion. Among those under numbers
were some beautiful flowers, but it: is useless to refer to
them in detail until names are forthcoming. This exhibit
was also awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's
silver Flora medal. Mr. A. J. Nix. Mount Charles, Tniro,
was third.

In the single bloom classes in this section, all to be in
commerce, the first prize winners were as follow ;
Trumpet, Mr. P. D. Williams, with Princess ; Leedsii,
.Miss Lavender Williams, with Lavender ; Poeticus,
Mr. P. D. Williams, with Snow King.

For ten distinct varieties, any section, open only to
those who have never won a prize for Daffodils offered
by the society, JMr. C Burleigh, The Sportman's Arms
Hotel, Menheuiot, was the only exhibitor, securing the
first prize with a fresh lot of blooms.
Fr.owERiNG Shrubs.

These were a feature of the show, the Rhododendrons
and many other choice kinds being shown in abundance.

For the best group of Rhododendron blooms, an> variety,
not exceeding twenty varieties, there were three entries,
first prize and the Royal Horticultural Society's silver-
gilt medal being awarded to Mr. J. C. Williams, Caerhayes
Castle, for a very beautiful lot. Argenteum was par-
ticularly good, as were a number of seedlings, a pale pink
one being particularly pleasing. Second honours went
to Mr. B. H. Shilson, Tremough, who had a fine truss of
the cream-coloured Nuttallii as well as the beautiful deep
red Cornubia. Mr. Robert Fox, Penjerrick. was a good
third, lindieyanum being well shown here.

The Royal Horticultural Society's silver Banksian
medal was awarded to Mr. J. C. Williams for «ix vases of
small-leaved Rhododendrons, these being intricatum.
racemosum, Angustinii, yunnanense, lutescens and
oliofolium.

200

THE GAKJJEJN.

[April iq, 1913.

The first prize for six distinct varieties weut to Mr. ;
P. D. Williams, who had a beautiful pink and also a deep j
red seedlinp. The j^econd prize went to Mr. Charles Hext, ,
Trebah, trebianuni (a very lart;e-flowered pink variety) \
being specially yood.

For six cut blooms grown under tjlass, Mr. K, Fox ,
was first with some beautiful varieties, the trass of
Dalhousige being particularly fine.

For the finest cut blooms of Rhododendrons grown
under glass, the premier award weut to Mr. J. C. Daubuz,
Killiow, Truro, for a wonderful truss of Nuttailii, tbe
flowers being large and very clean.

The class for three large jars of outdoor Rhododendrons
was very pretty, first p^ize going to Mr. Robert Fox,
Penjerrick.

For a group of out'loor unforced flowering shrubs or
climbers, the first prize and the Royal Horticultural
Society's silver-gilt Banksian medal went to the Rev.
A. T Boscawen, Ludgvan Rectory, Long Rock, who
put up a really wonderful lot. We need only mention
such as Acacia verticillata, Viburnum Carlesii. Boronia
heterophylla, Pittosporum eugenioides and Prostranthera
violacea to give readers some idea of his favourable clime.
The second prize and the Ro>al Horticultural Society's
silver Banksian medal went to Mr. T. B. Bolitho, Trewidden,
who showftd. among other interesting plants, Embothrium
roccineum, Grevillea sulphurea, Viinirnum rhytido-
pbyllum, Dendromecon rlgidum and Abutilon vitifoUum.
In'the third-prize group, shown by Mr. R. Fox, Penjerrick.
and which also carried the silver Banksian medal of the
Royal Horticultural Society, we noted such varieties as
Anopteris glandulosa, Drimys Winter! and Pittosporum
eugenioides! Fourth prize went to Sir Arthur P. Vivian,
Bosahan, Clianthus puniceus and the white variety.
Clematis indivisa and C>tisus racemosus being well shown.

For six varieties of outdoor unforced hardy shrubs,
the first prize and the Royal Horticultural Society's
silver Banksian medal were well won by Mr. P. D. Williams,
who had Veronica macrocarpa and Erica au^^t rails riiiida
in splendid condition. Sir Arthur P. Vivian was •.(■nuiil.
having grand varieties of Drimys Wiuteri and Clematis
indivisa. The third and fourth prizes went, respectively,
to Mr. A. P. Bearne and Mr. C. Hext.

In a similar class, but confined to those who have never
been awarded a prize olfered by the society in these
classes, the first honours went to Mr. E. Beard, Boscawen
Park, Truro.

Violets were well and freely shown, the blnuni^ h.in„'
large and of good colour. A harmless joke was uttimptrd
in this section, scented flowers of the double IVriwinkle,
Vinca minor, being staged as a new Violet ! Needless to
say, the judges discovered the joke and dealt with it
officially.

For Roses Lady Margaret Boscawen and Mr. A.
JMenkinsop were the principal winners, the last named
showing a fine vase of Catherine Mermet.

The classes for Polyanthuses and Primroses, three
varieties of each, were splendidly contested, the plants
being shown in round wicker baskets. Mr. A. P. Worth,
Lemon Street, Truro, was first for Polyanthuses, and
Lady Margaret Boscawen for Primroses.

For a collection of hardy unforced spring flowers,
twelve varieties, not to include hard-wooded shrubs,
Mr. P. O. Williams was first, staging, among other varie-
ties, Ourisia macrophylla. Epimedium sulphureum and
Caltha polypetala. The second prize went to Mr. T. B.
Bolitho. and third to Lady Margaret Boscawen.
Non-competitive Groups.

Captain T. A. Dorrien-Smitb, Isle of Scilly. staged a
wonderful collection of plants of botanical interest. We
doubt whether so good a collection has ever before been
shown. Among others, Beschorneria tuccoiles with
a flower-spike ^» feet long, Brachyglottis repanda, Correa
iiiveus. Grevillea sulphurea. Correa cardinalis, Acacia
iongifolia, Sophora tetraptera grandifiora, Echium calli-
t.hyrsum, Acacia verticiUata, Fuchsia cordifolia. Psoralea
affinis, Sedum arboreum, Correa alba, Agonis marginata,
Illicium anisatum, Pittosporum Tobira, P. tenuifolium,
P. t. Mayii, P. Raphii, P. Colensoi, P. undulatum, P.
bicolor, P. cornifolium and P. eugenioides were some of
the most interesting. A group such as this staged at a
London show would create much interest. Royal Horti-
cultural Society's gold medal.

Messrs. R. Veitch and Sons of Exeter put up a mis-
cellaneous group, mainly composed of choice hardy plants.
Clianthus puniceus, Olearia insignis, Daphne Cueorum,
Osmanthus Delavayi, Rlbes cereum, Psoralea arborea,
Gerbera Jamesonii hybrids, Primula helvetica nivalis
and Anemone Pulsatilla were some of the most interesting
that we noticed. Royal Horticultural Society's silver
Flora medal.

Mr. G. Reuthe, Kestou, Kent, staged a comprehensive
group of alpines and shrubs. Rhododendrons being con-
spicuous among the latter. Of the rock plants, Primula
nivalis hybrids, Saxifraga Bertolonii, S. Boydii, Primula
Julise, P. glutinosa and Saxifraga Stribneyi called for
special mention. Among many interesting shrubs we
noticed cut flowering sprays of Illicium floridanum. Royal
Hortlcvdtural Society's silver Flora medal.

Mr. C. Bourne, Bletchley, had a small but very beautiful
and splendidly -arranged exliibit of his famed Narcissi.
These included a number of good new sorts, a few that
specially appealed to us being Red Lady, Queen of Hearts,
White Countess, Countess Grey, Florence Pearson and
.Mrs. Robert Sydenham. Silver-gilt Flora medal of the
Royal Horticultural Society.

Messrs. Barr and Sons, King Street, Covent Garden,
staged a fine lot of Daffodils, the arrangement being
superb and in excellent tastr. .\mong other varieties
cAlling for special mention were Cleopatra, Lord Roberts,
Mrs. G. H. Barr, Venus, Charm, Coeur d'Lion, Koyal
Star and Lord Kitchener.

Mr. J. C. Martin. Truro, staged a nice group of Narcissi.
Brunette being one that called for special mention. Several
rather attractive red-eyed seedlings were also among
this group, to which the Royal Horticultural Society's
silver Banksian medal was awarded.

Messrs. Tresedcr and C'o. of Truro put up a collection
of hardy Tree Ferns, Acacias. Boronias, Hydrangeas,
Ericas, and forced Roses and other greenhouse plants, the
whole being well grown and clean. This firm also had
some nice rock garden plants, Gentiana acaulis being
particularly pleasing.

From the Devon Rosery and Fruit Farm, Limited,
came a collection of Roses in pots and some well-preserved
Apples, the latter including such varieties as Annie
Elizabeth, Bramley's Seedling and Newton Wonder.

Mr. Jephson, Hessenford, Cornwall, staged a miscel-
laneous lot of alpine plants. Primula helvetica nivalis,
(Enothera ovata, Siiene Hookeri, Onosma taurica, Primula
Forrestii, and several unnamed seedling Saxifrages lent
interest to this group.

A beautiful plant of Grevillea hookeriana was shown
by the Rev. A. T. Boscawen, Ludgvan Rectory. This
is a native of West Australia and a very rare plant in this
country. The specimen shown was a splendid example
of the gardener's skill. tli«- Mood red inflorescences remind-
ing one of giant tnotli-brushes. This received a flrst-class
certificate from the Royal Horticultural Society.

Awards of merit were granted by the Truro Society
to the following : Mr. P. D. Williams for Camellia Lady
Buller and Ourisia macrophylla ; the Rev. A. T. Boscawen
for Pernettya ciUaris and Pentapterigerum rugosum ;
Messrs. Barr and Sons for Narcissus Venus ; Mr. C.
Bourne for Narcissus Golden King ; Mr. J. C. Martin
for Narcissus Silver Penny ; Mr. Reuthe for Rhodo-
dendron Blsse ; Messrs. R. Veitch and Sons for Osmanthus
Delavayi ; and Mr. Jephson for Primula Forrestii.

ROYAL CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

The annual spring show of this society was held in the
Waverley Market, Edinburgh, on April 9 and 10, and
proved a most interesting and attractive one. The com-
petitive section was of high excellence. In few of the
classes was there any reduction of quality from that of
former years, while in many there was a marked advance.
The trade exhibits were remarkably good for the spring
show, and they gave a brightness and quite an elfective
appearance to the large area of the market. The show
was opened on the afternoon of the 9th by the Marchioness
of Linlithgow in a brief but appropriate and graceful
speech. It is impossible to do justice to the trade exhibits
in the space available, and it is only possible to refer
briefiy to the leading features in a few of the stands.

Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh, made a magnificent
display, occupying a large space on one side of the market,
their exhibit being marked by the high quality, exquisite
condition and tasteful arrangement always present in
their show exhibits. The group of spring bulbous plants
included many of the choicest Narcissi, Tulips. Hyacinths
and other subjects of this nature, with lovely Violas,
these making quite a show in themselves. A grand
group of Roses in pots was also exliibited, these com-
prising such fiowers as Jessie, Juliet, Rayon d'Or, Melody.
Mrs. Taft and many more. Adjoining these was a fine
group of Cinerarias in the various classes, followed by a
bank of magnificent Calceolarias. A large and repre-
sentative collection of Potatoes was also exhibited by
the firm. Gold medal.

One of the finest things in the show was the extensive
exhibit on the floor of Messrs. R. B. Laird, Dickson and
Sons, Edinburgh, this being a truly grand group of forced
and other shrubs, together with other flowering and
decorative subjects. Admirably arranged and com-
posed of a number of the best Rhododendrons, Lilacs,
Azaleas and Roses, this group attracted much attention
and well deserved the gold medal it received. It was
highly creditable as the fljst public exliibit of the incor-
porated businesses of the two old firms of Messrs. R. B.
Laird and Sons and Messrs. James Dickson and Sons.

Messrs. Dicksons and Co., Waterloo Place, Edinburgh,
set up another very fine exhibit on the floor. The flnest
feature here was tile grand lot of Hippeastrums (Amaryl-
lises), these being of exceptional beauty and quality.
The group, which was an extensive and highly tastefully
arranged one, included Azaleas, Rhododendrons, fine
standard Zonal Pelargoniums, Lilacs, Tulips and Narcissi.
Gold medal.

J^'rom Mr. David King, Osborne Nurseries, Edinburgh,
came a glorious group of plants and flowers, which
practically occupied one end of the market, and which was
arranged in a manner which gave much pleasure. A
low bank of plants, arranged in a winding outline, with
turf in front, it contained a number of good things, such
as Roses, Lilacs, Cytisuses, Rhododendrons, Ferns, Palms,
and other flowering and foliage plants. Mr. King, who
is the president of the Scottish Horticultural Association,
received much praise for tliis group. Gold medal.

Another striking exhibit, which also received a gold
medal, was that of Messrs. J. and A. Glass, Edinburgh,
who sent a magnificent lot of Carnations, these including
the best of the present-day varieties, splendidly grown
and shown,

A silver-gilt medal was given to Messrs. Cunningham,
Eraser and Co., Edinburgh, for their alpine plants, arranged
on rockwork and including a number of good alpines,
both old and new. The Primulas, now so popular, were
represented by the new P. pinnatifida, Forrestii, giraldi-
ana (syn. muscarioides), littoniana, hirsuta variety
nivea, decora, d. alba, a number of the viscosa hybrids,
pnlverulenta and others, while the other plants in this
choice display included Morisia hypogOBa, Androsaces,
such as pyrenaica and others ; Haberleas, virginalis

being among the number ; Saxifrages Faldonside, Boydii,
Cherrytrees, Arkwrightii and many others, with Anemones,
Heaths, iS:c. The little Rhododendron Grievei. raised
originally liy Mr. James Grieve, was delightful with its
dwarf habit and soft pinkish or rose and white flowers.

A similar award went to Messrs. Cutbush and Son,
London, for a most creditable exhibit of alpines. Car-
nations, i&c. The Carnations made a brilliant and effec-
tive group, prominent among them biiuL' .Mrs. E. C.
Raphael and others, while the ulinnr-- comprised, among
many others, the pretty Saxifraga .Miss Willmott, the
double blue Hepatica, Tulipa platystemon, Iris orchioides
and a number of other good things.

The Orchids of Messrs. Sander and Sons of St. Albans
were honoured with a silver-gilt medal, the small but
choice group including a inunber of real merit and rarity
which space prevents detailing.

The large group of Messrs. Storrie and Storrie. Gleii-
carse, N.B.. received a similar award. Noteworthy here
was the mass of Primula obconica of the highest quality,
showing in a marked degree the improvements effected
within recent years. In colour, size of truss and of
individual pips these plants were admirable. Cinerarias
of equal quality constituted the other leading feature
of Messrs. Storrie and Storrie's exhibit.

A silver-gilt medal was also given to Messrs. Young
and Co., Hatherley, Cheltenham, for one of their mag-
nificent displays of Carnations of the most modern type :
and to Messrs. Hogg and Robertson, Dublin, for a grancl
array of Narcissi, Tulips and Anemones, these all being
very flne and well displayed.

From Messrs. John Forbes, Hawick, Limited, came a
varied and interesting group of Streptocarpi, Caladiums,
.\zaleas. Primroses, Polyanthuses, Auriculas, Primula
species, Viola gracilis and florists' Violas, with Cytisuses
and a number of other good things. Silver medal.

.Mr. Clarence Elliott. Stev.iiage, staged a good variety
of alpines, shown on well-arranged rockwork. In good
masses, these looked well in the natural arrangement of
the rocks. Tl.e x>lants included Lithospermums, Gentiana
acaulis, .^".thionema iberideum, Androsace carnea, several
of the best red Mossy Saxifrages and others of the genus,
O.xalis enneaphylla, Primulas. Sempervivums and Sedums.
A silver medal was awarded.

Messrs. J. Piper and Son, London — new exhibitors here
— had a capital group of alpines and shrubs suitable for
rockwork. A leading feature was th'^ collection of Primulas,
including a most varied set of viscosa hybrids, mostly under
numbers only. Mrs. Robinson, yellow, was good, though
approaching some of the old P. Auricula forms. Sarra-
cenias, Saxifrages, Gentianas and Aubrietias composed a
group which attracted much notice. Silver medal.

A silver medal weut to the Liverpool Orchid Nursery
(John Cowanl, Limited, foi a handsome group of good
Orchids; Mr. T. E. Dawes, King's Lynn, for Rhubarb;
and Messrs. Thyne and Son, Dundee, for a capital stand
of alpines and" other hardy flowers. A bronze medal
was awarded to Messrs. Reamsbottom and Co., Geashill,
King's County, Ireland, for .\nemones.

The decorated dinner-tables brought out a capital
competition, and the judges must have had some diffi-
culty in arriving at a decision. Mr. J. Wilson came first,
with Mr. J. Hood second and Mr. D. Kidd third.

Fruit was limited to two classes, and Mr. G. Anderson
was first for a dish of Strawberries, Mr. T. M'Phail winning
a similar position for bottles of fruit.

Vegetables formed a most attractive section, Mr. R.
Stuart winning for the collection of vegetables and also
for the collection of salads. Other winners were Mr.
W. F. Staward, Mr. D. Eraser, Mr. J. Cossar, Mr. W. G.
Pirie. Mr. J. K. Brown, Mr. J. Paterson and Mr. G. M.
Service.

In the under-gardeners' competition for a plan of laying
out thirty-eight acres, the following were announced ah
the prize-winners : First, Mr. H. G. Oliver, Edinburgh
Royal Botanic Gardens ; second, Mr. J. W. Forsyth,
Markyate Gell, Herts ; third, Mr. Archibald Macey.
Godiugton Gardens, Ashford, Kent.

Non-competitive exhibits by private exhibitors were
Brachyglottis repanda, a pleasing New Zealand shrub,
from the Marquis of Linlithgow ; and splendid pans of
Saxifrages Boydii, Faldonside, Cherrytrees and pyrenaicH
splendens, from Mr. W. B. Boyd, Faldonside, Melrose.

The arrangements of the council and of Mr. Mackenzie,
the secretary and treasurer, were excellent.

DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY GARDENERS*
ASSOCIATION.

Mr. S. ARNOTT presided over the fortnightly meeting of
this association in St. George's Hall, Dumfries, on April 6.
There was a large attendance to hear the paper by Mr.
James Henderson, The Gardens, Elmbank, Dumfries,
on " The Chrysanthemum." The paper was in every way
an excellent one, dealing with the various classes of the
flower from a punly praetiral standpoint, Mr. Henderson,
as he stated at t lie oiitset . iffraining from discussing the ques-
tion of the history of the flower. He pointed out its beauty
and utility, and then passed on to speak under separate
heads of the three leading divisions into which he grouped
his flowers. These were the early-fiowering, the decorative
midseason varieties, and the late-fiowering or exhibition
flowers. In each of these sections Mr. Henderson gave
full directions regarding their propagation and cultural
after-treatment. Abounding with humour, the paper
was closely listened to and much enjoyed. A spirited
discussion took place, the points principally raised being :
Time of propagating autumn varieties, the effect of the
use of nitrates on the duration of the blooms, single pots
or boxes for cuttings, the cure of rust and other subjects
of importance. Mr. Henderson replied on the discussion,
and received a warm vote of thanks.

J^fe^

GARDEN.

-^=^i^?^^'

No. 2162.— Vol LXXVII.

April 26, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes of the WntK 201

COKKESPONDENCE

Rose Blush Kanibli-r 202
Caterpillars on fruit

bushes 202

Failure of Anemone

fulgens . . . . 202
Saxifraga burscriaiia 202
A hint when syring-
ing 203

A Itose note . . . . 203
How to destroy ants 203
Double - flowered
pink and white
Almonds . . . . 203
Forthcomhig events . . 203
My Experience with

THE Naeoissfs Klv 203
Daffodil Notes .. 204

CniTORAL HINT3 ON NEW

AND Kake Plants
Trees and shrubs . . 205
Bamboo Garden . . 205
KocK AND Water Garden
Saxifraga marginata 206
Coloured Plate
The hardy Nym-
pheeas or Water
Lilies 206

Greenhouse
Easily - grown
Orchids for the
amateur .. .. 207
Sweet-scented green-
house Rhododen-
drons 208

New and Rake

Plants 208

Gakdenino for Beginners
How to grow good

Runner Beans . . 209
Sowing Mignonette 209
Gakdenino op the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 210

For Northern gar-
dens 210

The Fifty Best

ALPINES 211

Flower Garden

Sweet Pea notes . . 211
Editor's Table . . 211
Answers to Corre-
spondents
Flower garden . . 212
Trees and shrubs . . 212
Greenhouse . . . . 212
Miscellaneous.. .. ilZ

IIiIiD ST RATIONS.

Rose Blush Rambler at BexLill 202

The Narcissus fly with larva and pupa 203

The new Leedsii Narcissus St. Olaf 204

Bamboos in the Botanic Gardens at Cambridge . . 205

Saxifraga marginata 206

The hardy Nymphseas or Water Lilies.. Coloured plate

Lycaste Skinneri 207

Primula Maximowiczii 208

Runner Bean Scarlet Giant 209

BDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he wilt not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Offices : 20, Tavistock Utrcet, Covent Garden, W.C.

The Best Bedding Pelargonium. — .\t tin- trial

of bedding Pelargoniums hold by the Royal Horti-
cultural Society at Wisley last year, it was proved
that there was no advance on some of the older
and well-known varieties. Paul Crampel was
considered to be much the finest scarlet-flowered
bedding variety in the whole tri,-il, which included
ninety-eight stocks.

Large Prize for a New Rose. — Raisers of new
Roses will learn with interest that the management
of the Panama-Pacific International Exhibition,
to be held in San Francisco in 1915, are offering a
cup, value i.ooodol., in addition to any award
that the horticultural jury may vote, for the best
new Rose that is shown. Amateurs and pro-
fessionals will be entitled to compete, but the Rose
must be imnamed and must not have been
previously e.xhibited.

White Hepaticas in the Rock Garden. — A

charming etJect has been produced in the rock
garden of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh,
by the tasteful maimer in which a number of plants
of the white Hepatica, Anemone Hepatica alba,
have been planted. On a somewhat steep portion
of shelving rockwork, rising to 6 feet or more high,
the Hepaticas were planted along the little terraces
between the shelving rockwork. The efiect in
April has been remarkably pleasing, the pure
white flowers of the Hepaticas showing in an
exquisite way against the dark stones. The position
appears to be a partially shaded one.

A Good Plant for Sliade. — Hypericum caly-
cinum, commonly known as Rose of Sharon or
St. John's Wort, will be found useful for planting
in shady places, such as under trees, providing
these are not exceptionally dense, where it is
sometimes difficult to get grass to become estab-
lished. The plants are easily increased by division,
and pieces with roots, planted now, will soon furnish
ground which would otherwise remain bare. It
is advisable to plant thickly to get the ground
covered in a short time, and apart from cutting
off the old growths in the spring, when the
new ones appear, the plants will need little
attention.

A Gorgeous Tulip. — One of the most interest-
ing flowers in our garden just now is Tulipa
fosteriana, a beautiful species from Bokhara that
deserves to be grown wherever Tulips are appre-
ciated. The immense goblet-shaped flowers are
rich scarlet, glowing as a furnace, with a rich
yellow centre, in which are delicately poised slate
blue anthers. We have given it a warm comer
in deep, loamy soil, and there it seems quite happy.
The largest flower measures 6 inches from the
base to the tips of the petals, the largest of which
is 2| inches wide. The foliage is large and pale,
almost glaucous, green in colour, and the flower-
stems attain a height of about eighteen inches.

This species received a first-class certificate from
the Royal Horticultural Society in 1906, but
as yet seems to be little known. Mr. Jacob
must assist us in spreading its virtues.

Lime-Sulphur versus Bordeaux Mixture for
Spraying Potatoes. — Experiments conducted at
the New York .Agricultm-al Experimental Station
last year proved that a solution of lime-sulphur
cannot be recommended as a spray for the Potato
disease. On the other hand, six applications of
Bordeaux mixture increased the yield of market-
able tubers at the rate of 111-5 bushels per acre.
The lime-sulphur wash dwarfed the plants, though
it did not appear to burn the foliage. On the
other hand, the Bordeaux mixture prolonged the
life of the plants about two weeks.

A Good Annual for Cutting. — When sowing
hardy annuals, the Sweet Sultan should not be
forgotten, as for border embellishment it cannot
be surpassed. The flowers remain fresh in water
for a long period, and are therefore valuable as
cut flowers, being very effective either in vases
alone or mixed with Fern, light Grasses, or with
Gypsophila. The seeds should be sown where
the plants are to flower, and the best results are
obtained from plants that are well thinned. There
are several beautiful varieties. The Bride (white),
The Bridegroom (heliotrope). The Bridesmaid
(yellow) and splendens (rich wine red) are some of
the most distinct, although a mass of mixed shades
is very attractive.

Hardy Annual Calceolarias. — Among the many

hardy annuals, few are mure deserving of a place
in our gardens than the annual Calceolarias. Seeds
of these sown now in beds or borders containing
Aquiljgias, Sweet Williams, Dr similar early-
flowering plants will make such beds look bright
at the latter part of the'summer when the perma-
nent occupants are over. They are easily grown.
Seeds may be scattered among the early-flowering
plants and raked in the soil, which should be fairly
rich. A good watering occasionally during the
dry weather is all that will be found necessary.
Calceolaria chelidonifolia, C. pinnata and C.
me.xicana are the most commonly known, each
being useful for this purpose.

Potatoes as a Cure for Headache.— Those

who have hitherto regarded the humble Potato
solely as a wholesome and useful vegetable will
be interested to learn that it possesses other virtues.
According to a short article in the Lancet for last
week, the small doses of poisonous solanine
contained in a healthy Potato " are stated by
some authorities to be an excellent sedative,
and more efficacious in long-standing neuralgia
than either antipyrine or antifebrin. We have
little doubt that oftentimes a judicious diet
of Potatoes would be of greater benefit to a
good many self-physicking people than a dose of
some antipyretic substance which they regard as
adapted to relieve all headaches, whatever their
origin."

202

THE GARDEN.

[April 26,11913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Rose Blush Rambler. — This single-flowered
climbing Rose is one of the most vigorous-growing
varieties suitable for outdoor cultivation, and for
clothing arches, pergolas or verandahs has few
equals. It blooms comparatively early, and
produces its large trusses of blush flowers in great
profusion. The accompanying illustration, showing
this Rose growing on a house at Bexhill, was
kindly sent to us by Mrs. Mainwaring, Bembridge,
Isle of Wight, and well depicts the free-flowering
characters of this charming Rose.

Anemone robinsoniana cornubiense. — Here we
have a very pretty Wood Anemone, resembling
the lovely blue A. robinsoniana, save that the
exterior of the buds and flowers is red, this colouring
giving a special brightness to the buds and to the
flowers when they are closed. This is a charming
little Wood Anemone, easily cultivated in semi-
shade, shade, or even sun, but preferring a light,

Berberis verniculosa. — This new Barberry
promises to be a good subject for the rock garden
if it at all fulfils the expectations one forms from
seeing plants in pots. This was in the Royal
Botanic Gardens, Edmburgh, where little specimens
not more than 3 inches or 4 inches or so in height
were bearing a number of their bright yellow
flowers along with their pleasing, small leaves.
I am not certain whence this charming little
Berberis comes, but it is probably a Chinese species.
Should it turn out to be as hardy as it looks and
to retain its dwarf habit, B. verniculosa will achieve
some favour from cultivators of rock plants. — S. A.

Wallflowers for the Cold Greenhouse. —

Readers who have unheated greenhouses in which
they would fain see flowers throughout the winter
may like to try Wallflowers, which with me have
been continuously in bloom from October to April.
Formerly I tried seedling plants, such as those
used for spring bedding, but these did not flower
before the end of February. Last May, when the
spring bedding Wallflowers were cleared away,
I saved some of the best-shaped plants, potted
each into a 5-inch pot, and sunk them where space

ROSE BLUSH KAMBLKR IN A READER b GARDEN AT BEXHILL.

rather open soil, though this should not be too
loose. It is as hardy as the common wild Wood
Anemone, and tubers should be procured in early
autumn and straightway planted about two inches
deep. — S. Arnott, Dum/ries.
Caterpillars on Fruit Bushes. — Paris green

is about the only effective remedy for these pests.
It can be mixed with water and applied, but the
best method of preparation is to make up some
lime-water in the usual way, and into every five
or six gallons stir loz. of Paris green. Churn
them well together, then spray as finely as possible
over the bushes and trees. A weeK later syringe
with lukewarm water, in order to remove the
substance from all fruits. This method is one of
the most effective, but should not be adopted
within a fortnight of the date when the fruit is
to be gathered, as the Paris green is poisonous.
If the spraying is performed after picking the
fruits, allow the substance to remain on the foliage.
It will do no harm and keep off pests. — Hugh H.

AlTKEN.

offered in a mixed border. There they were left
till October, when they were removed to the cold
greenhouse, and were very shortly in bloom, as
they have continued ever since. Primrose Dame
was the variety used. — M. Kenny, Cambridge.

Failure of Anemone fulgens. — As Mr. Arnott
asks, on page 181, issue April 12, for opinions
about Anemone fulgens, I may say that here in
Surrey it flourishes well, but not in the natural
soil, which is poor and sandy. We find it will
only do well in the moister parts of our garden.
Each year it flowers in abundance during about
two to three months on the lower parts of a small
rock garden in which the soil is entirely made up
of good, light loam with some leaf-mould mixed
with it. In this part of the garden the natural
subsoil is rather moist sand. The plants are in
full s>m, but they also do equally well in a small
bed with the same subsoil where they only get
the midday sun. The flowers sometimes begin
before January is over, but this year they did not
begin till the end of February. — Tempus Fugit.

How to Grow Saxifraga burseriana.— I am

interested in "Alpinist's" very considerate
challenge^on the above subject, page 191, April 19
issue. I am very grateful to him for not dealing
more harshly with one whom, I fear, he has proved
a false prophet. I will frankly confess; that S.
burseriana puzzles me. Mr. Elliott, whom I took
with me for our first sight of the plant in one of
its loci classici, will. bear me out when I say that
it there luxuriates on limey silt in a very deep and
sunless gorge, and there alone. Similarly I have
since seen it in the Schlem Klamm, the same great
Tridentine form, but less abundant and less
luxuriant. (But there was born S. b. Gloria and
by me collected.) And here also it appears,
though less rigidly, to shun the more open and
simny places. Finally, on the high crest of the
Hoch Ober, in the Karawanken, S. b. minor may
be found in enormous masses, always, for choice,
on the under side of the shelving tussocks, though
exposed to all the wind and rain along the moim-
tain's neck. It was under the influence of these
experiences that I declared the plant (in " The
Rock Garden ") to " detest sunshine and open
positions." I do not think that the allusion or
general prescription for the whole race of Kabschia
in " My Rock Garden " is really contradictory
to this, as it has to cover so much wider a field to
generalise about the section, rather than prescribe
specifically for one member of it. At the same
time, I incline to think that the more general
statement may perhaps be nearer to horticultural
truth (as conditions so vary) than the stronger
pronouncement of " The Rock Garden," though
this as a fimdamental fact of the plant's natural
requirements should always be kept in mind,
.■^t the same time, " Alpinist " must remember
that " dry and simny," " cool and shady," mean
very different things in almost every garden of
almost every English coimty, and a very, very
different thing, again, from the sun and shade of
the Salum Gorge or the Schlem Klamm. I
myself mean by " detests sun and open positions "
merely that — having so often seen burseriana in
Southern gardens fried and frizzled out of life by
being planted in the " dry, sunny positions " in which
Mr. Robinson hopes it will soon form good-sized tufts
— now I should always advise cultivators in hot
counties to give it a northerly or westerly exposure.
Is it possible that " Alpinist " thought I meant
that it should have positive shade of bush or tree ?
In this case I apologise for my obscurity. No
wonder I have been found a false prophet. I
am certain that burseriana, if it is to grow well
in full sun in Southern Counties, depends on very
perfect conditions of drainage and underground
moisture. Generally speaking, to elaborate and
clarify my prescriptions, I advise growing it in
some quite open and unshaded position, but in
one which does not get the full fiury of midday
summer heat, imless it be well watered from
below and in a soil that suits the demands of such
a baking situation — very loose, that is, with chips
and lime rubble freely mixed with a light, rich
compost. My own experience with the plant is
valueless, for here (where the sun is pale) it grows
without trouble in almost any aspect. But even
here I should not give it my hottest situation.
But in any case I am sure we must never forget
ttat the very best forms of the plant — Gloria and
magna — are only^to be found in deep and darkish
gorges, where they are protected from the rages
of an Italian sun and summer, not by tree or bush,
but by the vast encompassing walls of limestone
on either hand. — Reginald Farrer.

April 26, 1913-]

THE GARDEN.

203

A Hint when Syringing. — When using the syringe
for spraying bushes with an oily or soapy emulsion,
great difficulty is often experienced in holding it
sufficiently tight to develop the required force
necessary for successful work. If this is so, a
band of metal should be soldered round the barrel
at the most convenient point ; a piece of corru-
gated brass or lacquered metal raised a quarter
of an inch in the centre gives a secure hold.
I have also seen a syringe having a piece of thick
copper wire tightly wound round the barrel and
soldered in position for the same purpose. A
plumber will do the work for a few pence. — H. A.

A Rose Note. — Some weeks ago one or two
N'i>ithern correspondents complained of the winter's
havoc among their Rose plants. Happily, no such
ill-effects have to be chronicled from this district.
But had severe frosts visited us, I believe we should
have fared equally badly, for as one has gone through
the pruning operations, the soft and pithy state
of so much of last year's wood is all too evident,
thus making it necessary to cut some growths
practically to the ground which otherwise ought
to have been left with three or four good eyes.
I iiresunie this want of firmness in the wood is
due to last year's lack of sunshine. — C. Turner,
1. Kenwood Road, Highgate, N.

How to Destroy Ants. — Ants are often trouble-
some pests during the summer. A weak solution
of carbolic atid, one to three parts of the ordinary
commercial substance to lOO parts of water, is a
good liquid to spray in places which they frequent ;
but a good insecticide is equally effective. Vaporite,
a substance often advertised in your columns,
is even better than the carbolic solution. I have
also heard of boiling water being used success-
fully, as the insects do not love a moist habitation,
even should they not be killed by the heat. If
the nest can be found, it ought to be flooded with
water, or hberally treated with some poisonous
substance or a strong insecticide like Vaporite. —

HluU H, .\ITKEN.

Double-Flowered Pink and Rose Almonds. —

Among hardy flowering trees that adorn our
gardens in early spring, those having flowers of a
deep pink or rose colour are none too numerous,
and amid the general run of white, yellow and blue
flowered subjects their ruddy colours stand out
conspicuously. Exceedingly pictiuresque at the
present time is Prunus Araygdalus Clara Meyer,
whose leafless branches are thickly set with deep
pink flowers like miniature semi-double Roses. The
flowers are exceedingly lasting, are not readily
marred by adverse weather, and the trees are
floriferous even in a yoimg state. In Prunus
persica rosea plena we have a double rose-coloured
form of the Peach, while in the variety magnifica
the flowers are of a much deeper shade. All these
forms of Prunus are exceedingly ornamental,
either as bushes planted in grass — at least a yard
around the stems must be kept clear of grass —
or as standards, singly as specimens, or grouped
among other shrubs. — Thom.\s Smith, Coomhc Court
Gardens.

MY EXPERIENCE WITH THE
NARCISSUS FLY.

(Merodon EguEsiRis.)

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

April 29. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meet-
ing and National Auricula and Primula Show
(Southern Section) at Vincent Square, Westminster.

April 30. — National Auricula Society's Show
{Midland Section) at Birmingham (two days).

May I. — National Rose Society's Spring Show
at the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall.

May 3. — Societe Frani;aise de Horticulture de
I.ondres Meet.ng.

IN writing of the Narcissus fly, I do not make
any pretensions to profound knowledge, but
I can see things are not exactly as we have
been taught, and for this reason 1 have
taken upon myself to put forward the points
at variance with accepted orthodoxy. My first
knowledge I gathered from the Rev. S. E. Bourne's
" Book on the Daffodil," but my experience has
led me to see that things are not exactly as described
there, so I am now anxious to get a more perfect
knowledge and to get others interested, so that by
combined investigation we may find out the real
life-duration of the larva and other matters con-
nected therewith, which will clear away the mists
at present surrounding the mystery. It is necessary
that we should have proof of the position of the
egg as it is deposited by the fly. This can be done
by watching the female while occupied in this work.
Then we need strong proof of the direction the
newly-hatched larva takes, as it is a keenlV-disputed
point whether it works its way down the foliage
inside the bulb or outside, entering from below.
The approximate date of change from larva to
pupa jught als) to be known.

In 1909 I had a bed of Emperor Narcissi nearly
destroved bv the flv. 1 took about thirtv of the

Larva

Pupa .

Fly.

THE X.\RCISSUS FLY (MERODON EQUESTRIS)
WITH L.\RVA AND PUPA.

bulbs having larva; therein and planted them in
sjil in a box, over which I placed a sheet of glass,
so that none could escape. In March, 1910, the
first fly metamorphosed ; others followed in a few
days, and I fed them with honey, but they did not
live more than eight or ten days. May was the
most prolific month. One of these larval grubs
was of quite nomadic tendency ; it left its home
and wandered in the soil until it found a hole in
the side of the wooden box from which a small
knot had fallen, and in this it was jammed. No
doubt its food supply had faQed and it was in
search of fresL quarters. Let it be noted that 1
found this larval grub thus jammed in April, at a
time when it ought — according to accepted theories
— to have been in its chrysalis state. This is one
of the several points I did not grasp as I ought to
have done until too late, but I think it will go a
long way towards proving my theory of a two
seasons' larval state. I did not then give it proper
consideration. I was, after this, better acquainted
with the fly, and began to watch for it in the garden.
I found by experience that from ri a.m. to 3 p.m.
was the best time, and got into the habit of leaving
all other work at those times so that I might give
my undivided attention to their destruction.
My method of capture was as follows : After accus-
toming my eyes to recognise the fly on the wing,
I watched until I saw it drop on the soil near the

beds ; then, holding my net about two feet from the
ground, I cautiously drew within striking distance,
then dropped the net over it and'. flattened it out
with my fingers as quickly as possible. I found
that when the fly rises, being disturbed, it will, as a
rule, settle again fiu'ther along the bed ; but if
missed when struck at, it vanishes like magic to
some distant retreat. I have, however, seen others
take a turn round of, say, 20 yards, then as suddenly
return and drop within striking distance and be
caught. This is more especially so when the fly
has been hatched on that particular bed — at least,
I have thought so.

I saw no flies on the wing after June 25. In
igit the season opened cold and wet, and I saw
no flies untU May 2$. After this they came out
daily, until I caught as many as twenty-seven
in one day ; then, dwindling in number, 1 caught
the last on Jime 21. I kept a diary, and totalled
a bag of 127 males and fifty-seven females. I
experienced a great joy, believing I had caught
the last. I have proved my imaginings sadly
deficient. According to Mr. H. C. Long, Gar-
deners' Chronicle, October 12, 1912, the laying
capacity of each female fly for one season is stated
to be 100. I do not accept that. I have several
times dissected the female, and with a cambric
needle counted sixty, more or less, but always within
half-a-dozen of that number. If, therefore, the
number of bulbs destroyed in a season was based
on the 100 product it would be very misleading.
This year I caught fifty-seven females, and this
number multiplied by sixty, which I consider
correct, gives 57 x 60 = 3,420, representing the
total number of bulbs that might be destroyed.

In iqi2 the fly rose early, my first catch being
on .^pril 20. The Daffodil period was very early, too,
and much difficulty was experienced by growers in
keeping their flowers for the shows. The season was
warm and the flies were very active. I was very
active, too, and did not sit down to watch them
grow. 1 took my " gun " (I always call it so) and
went afield after the game. Last year I found it
very late at work, and my last kill was on July 8.
When I drew my balance I found I had a bag of
thirty-eight males and sixty-six females. It is
impossible to calculate the extent of the losses,
because there is so much we cannot compute ;
for instance, small side bulbs suffer terribly when
the large bulbs are affected. I consider this fly-
catching method far outstrips any other scheme
for the destruction of the flies. Here they are all
killed before the breeding begins. In other methods,
you must wait until a new generation of flies is at
work in the bulbs. I often think of the old adage,
" A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush."

A. rather remarkable thing came under my notice
last year. On March 26 I took up a bulb of Mme.
de Graaff, owing to the iU-conditioned state of
its foliage. Searching for a cause, I found a full-
grown larval grub, and it set me wondering as to
why that grub was still in a larval state — it really
ought to be a chrysalis. I felt there was something
wrong. I wanted to know why, so I prepared
another bulb by cutting it in two and scooping out
a portion to fit the grub in. I then put nails
through it and stowed it away to keep it tmder
observation. On June 25 I found another bulb
having a full-grown larval grub, and I treated it
in the same way. The nomad or tramp larva,
previously referred to, now came to my memory,
strongly confirming my theory of two seasons'
larval existence. Keeping the two bulbs under
observation until October 26, they were examined,
found alive, and planted in soil in a flower-pot.

204

THE GAEDEN.

[April 26, 1913.

There can be no question about them, but I shall
keep an eye on them, all the same. Respecting
this two seasons' larval life, 1 lnuiid a very stronfi
confirmation of this in tlio Gardeners' Chronicle,
October 19, 1912, from Ih? pen ot Mr. A. J. Bliss,
F.R.H.S. He had a harvest uf about ten thousand
bulbs, and owing to the prevalence cf the fly
he made a most carclul search for the larvje
and found from thirty to forty, each being
about a quarter of an inch long. He also
found three other larva tlirce-quarters of an inch
long. Not having arrived at my two seasons
theory, he attributed those of t!.e smaller size to
some mysterious retardation wliiic
still in the egg state. He thinks
the eggs remained dormant for
some time after oviposition. Of
course, this second season in
the life of the larva must nut
now be lost sight of, but be
followed up for fuller corrobora-
tion. All the same, it appears
as plain as a pikestaff that
two seasons must have been
occupied in the life of
the two I have under observa-
tion and the three named by Mr.
Bliss.

With reference to fly iden-
tification, we have much instruc-
tion towards this that is helpful,
but it needs repeating for
amateur guidance. I would there-
lore put the method thus : The
fly has many varied hues, is
covered mth short hairs, and
very much resembles the worker
female of the field bee. In fhght
it is more like the domestic
drone bee, with a manoeuvring
similar to the blue-bottle fly.
The colour is black, or j- black
banded with grey, yellow, old gold,
pinky russet, or sometimes all grey
or yellow.

Methods for its Destruc-
tion. — I. First and best is a
proper net to catch the fly.
No other method is so
effectual. 2. A constant watch-
ful eye early in the morning
when the fly is leaving its
cocoon, or it may be foimd with
wings not expanded, or even
in the cocoon on the bed. It
may also be found dormant on
hedges, Bo.\ edging. Potato,
Bean and Pea haulm and
similar places. 3. A rigid in-
spection of all bulbs every
time they change hands (raiser,
sorter, packer, buyer and
planter), and if this be done
the beds will receive the benefit and the fly
will cease to terrorise. 4. A close examina-
tion of bulbs where distorted foliage exists or
where they do -ot grow properly, also of the
beds round such, to find the chrysali=, in March,
April, Ma) and June. 5. Be careful to put
the flies out of their misery as quickly as
possible. Do not be tempted to follow such
recommendations as spraying, steeping in hot
water or stoving up to 120" Fahr. It is
questionable if those recommending have prooi
of success. Gforc.e St. Ox.

DAFFODIL NOTES.

The Chairman of the Daffodil Committee.—

Like all of us, our chairman, Mr. E. A. Bowles,
always has a more or less severe attack of yellow
fever every Daffodil-time ; but this spring, unfortu-
nately for himself and for us, he has combined it
with a bout of the scarlet — the real thmg, I am
sorry to say. Hence he is a prisoner at Myddelton
House, and I fear we shall not see him in his accus-
tomed place for another week or two. Just fancy
spending a whole Daffodil season in one's bedroom !

THE NEW LEEDSII NARCISSUS ST. OLAF I-'OR WHICH MESSRS. BARR
.\ND SONS RECEIVED AN .\WARD OF MERIT AT THE LONDON
SHOW LAST WEEK. {See page 2U8 )

The idea is too awful to contemplate, and yet in
our chairman's case it has been a reality. I am
sure there is not a single one of his colleagues who
does not heartily sympathise with him in his
misfortune and wish him a speedy return to the
world.
Two Barnstaple Seedlings. — My wanderings

this year led me to both Barnstaple (Devon Show)
and Truro (Cornwall Show). At the former I
thought Mr. T. Batson of Beaworthy had a good
seedling in Melpomone, a bicolor Barri, in shape
rather like Croesus. The pale orange cup .and the

ivory white perianth harmonised very well and
gave a nice bloom. Size, 3J inches by half an
inch by I J inches. Ionia was another good seed-
ling, shown by Miss Ida Pope of King's Norton.
It is after the style of Albatross, but with a flatter
and more expanded cup and a very pale canary
perianth, overlapping and of good texture. Size,
3j inches by half an inch by ij inches.

Truro Show.— Truro and J. C. and P. D. Williams
are inseparable. Here these famous champions
of the Daffodil show meet in friendly combat
every year. Their exhibits are always worth
seeing, and this year was no exception. I spotted
a very fine Poet in " Mr. J. C.'s."
I have since learnt that our great
Poet-maker considers it to be
one of the very very best he has
ever raised. The same variety
figured on Messrs. Barr's stand
at the London show last week,
where it gained an award of
merit under the name of
Caedmon. Awards of merit were
given to Venus, an excellent
Giant Leedsii of a good class
for shows, and also to Silver
Penny (Martin). In days not
so long ago it would have been
called a bicolor Engleheartii.
The big, flat eye was of a
distinct tone of deep yellow, and
the whole flower reminded me
of Mr. W. T. Ware's very
pretty Princess Alice, which is
described by the vendor as
" practically a white form of
Princess Mary with a splendid
constitution."

The Royal Horticultural
Society's Daffodil Show. —

" London," as we are beginning
to call this show for short,
was a great gathering of the
clans. All sorts and conditions
of flowers were to be seen in
the hall. Mr. Stocks from
Darlington must have given the
merodons a short respite, for he
had left his nets at home and
brought some flowers. Then there
was that keen amateur, Mr.
Morton, who, I believe, holds
the money-bags of the National
Hardy Plant Society. His ex-
hibits were many and also his
prizes. Then, again, there were
the White Lady and the White
Gentleman — more famous, perhaps,
in the Rose world than in ours
— with much nice stuff. Lastly,
but not inclusively, there were
Parson Buncombe from Devon
with good examples of the grand
white trumpet Sibyl Forster and Red Wing, the
reddest thing out in perianths ; Canon Fowler, Mr.
Mallender from Scrooby (a seedling-raiser of much
merit), Mr. Lower from Mid- Wales, Mr. T. Batson,
Mr. Cranfield, Mr. Staffurth, Messrs. Cartwright
and Goodwin, Mr. Watts, Mr. Bourne, Mr. P. D.
Williams, Mr. Crosfield and Mr. Wilson, the coming
man, a description which I use with deliberate
intent of one whom everyone thinks has already
come — but " wait and see."

When our present King was Prince of Wales
he made his famous tour of the Empire and rf mrdf d

April 26, 1913.

THE GARDEN.

205

his impressions in the now celebrated phrase,
" Wake up ! " The fascination of the Daffodil is
great. Yearly it attracts an increasing number
of devotees. It is as if a stone had been dropped
in a still pool and the expanding ripples had just
touched our big, big firms. Sutton's with their
own seedlings ! Carter's with quite a lot of good
new things, of which perhaps Dazzler, a magnificent
vase flower, was the pick ! Veitch's, not to be
left behind, had an orthodox stage full of good old
favourites and new leaven. These signs are
striking. So, too, but in another way, were the
vast number of new seedlings that were every-
where to be seen. Someone asked me what would
happen if they were all to be grown on into stocks.
" Only one thing," I said ; " apply to the new
Chinese Parliament for a leave of their country."
But this will not come to pass. There will be a
great massacre of the innocents, and practical
business men will find, I expect, their goose with
the golden egg in having and holding large stocks
of the precise things the public is
sure to want and which it will
have. What those varieties will
be is the question of questions
to the up-to-date Daffodil-grower.
Mr. Ware, for example, acquired
Horace. I have heard it said that
he looks upon his possession as a
certain yearly income for many
years. I feel sure he is right.
Another everyone's flower is Wliito
Lady, another is Lucifer, another
is .■\spasia, another is Olympia. T'l
return to the show, of which a
fuller description will be given
next week, I feel I must, in
response to many solicitations,
lodge a protest here to the policy
of the Council in allowing the
Royal Horticultural Society's Hali
to be let immediately before such
an important show as that of
April r5-i6. It makes one wonder
whether flowers or other things
are the more important in their
estimation. This is a bare state-
ment of what happened last week :
Time, 5 p.m. on the day befort-
the show. No staging whatever
fixed ; about two hundred and
fifty vases only available and,
say, 1,500 wanted ; dust ad lib.
This I myself saw on my arrival.
Readers can draw their own con-
clusions of the amiable frame of mind of the
competitors who had arrived ■^arly to try to get
forward with their work, for Daffodils take a long
time to put up.

A Daffodil Year Book. — This is taking shape.
The Narcissus committee have offered me the
position of Editor, and I have accepted the same.
I hope I may be able to turn out a book which
will not disappoint the expectations of those who
have waited for such a volume so long. More
particulars concerning this will be forthcoming in
due course. Joseph Jacob.

[We have made enquiries respecting the arrange-
ments at the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall
on Monday last, and find that the trouble
referred to by Mr. Jacob was in a large measure
due to the illness of the superintendent,
Mr. S. T. Wright, who was unable to be
present on either the Monday, Tuesday or
Wednesday. — Ep.]

CULTURAL HINTS ON NEW
AND RARE PLANTS.

THE BAMBOO GARDEN.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

(Continued from page Qfj.)

Ailantus vilmoriniana. — An ornamental tree
allied to the well-known Tree of Heaven (A.
glandulosa), from which it differs by having
spiny stems and rose-coloured stalks to the leaves.
It succeeds in loamy soil, and requires a position
exposed to full sun, where the wood can become
well ripened, for during its early life the plant is
a little tender. Usually grafted upon stocks of
A. glandulosa, it might be increased by root-cuttings
once own-root plants were obtained.

Robinia Kelseyi. — The flowers of this are quite
as beautiful as those of the Rose .Acacia (R. hispida)
and the same colour, while the species has the advan-
tage of forming a larger plant and producing seeds,
whereas seeds cannot be obtained from R. hispida.

THE latter half of April and during May is
an importaiit time in the Bamboo gar-
den, for during that period any necessary
alterations may be carried out most
satisfactorily, as Bamboos are then
in the best condition for transplanting.
It is also the best time for pruning, for although
some people trouble little about this work. Bamboos
which are regularly pruned have a great advantage
over those which are left untouched.

Transplanting. — The time to begin dividing
and transplanting the clumps varies according
to the season, but a good guide is the condition
of the new shoots. When these are from 2 inches
to 3 inches long and new leaves are bursting on
the older branches is the proper time to begin.
Bamboos are not very fastidious regarding soil,
for they thrive well in light, medium and heavy
loam ; but they must be planted in a position

H.\RDY BAMBOOS IN THE BOTANIC G.\RDENS AT CAMBRIDGE.

Propagation is effected by means of root-cuttings
or by seeds. In the former case sections of root as
thick as a lead pencil may be cut 4 inches long
and be planted in light, loamy soil in a little heat
in spring, when growths will be formed. Plant in
light, loamy soil, and keep the leading shoot tied
up and the side branches checked for a few years
to encourage height.
Leptospermnm scopariiun Nicbollii. — Manv

people voted this to be the most beautiful new
plant shown at the International Exhibition held
in London last year. It is an erect shrub, and has
beautiful dark red flowers instead of the familiar
white of the typical L. scoparium. In the South-
west Counties it may be grown out of doors in ordi-
nary garden soil like any other shrub, but in a colder
climate a cool greenhouse is required. When new soil
is provided, equal parts of fibrous peat and loam
mav be given with a fair proportion of silver sand.
(7'o be (onlinued.)

where the ground is never likely to become dry,
or where plenty of water can be provided during
dry weather. At planting-time it is a good plan
to place a little leaf-mould among the soil which
comes in immediate contact with the roots, while
a little distance away well-rotted manure may be
mixed with the soil. A good watering should follow
transplanting, and both newly-planted and estab-
lished clumps are benefited by a mulch of rotten
manure and leaves applied in May. Wherever a
good force of water is obtainable, it is an excellent
plan to give the plants a thorough washing overhead
several times a year, and particularly before and
after pruning. This is specially needful in the
case of plants growing in the vicinity of towns,
where dirt collects about the leaves and branches.
Bamboos are usually increased by dividing old
clumps into small pieces, potting them up, and
standing them in a moist and warm greenhouse
until growtli recon:\mences : hut whenever it is

206

THE GARDEN.

[April 26, 1913.

possible to obtain seeds of any species, it is very
much better to raise plants from them than to
propagate in any otiier way. As is well known,
many Bamboos have flowered and died within
the last few years. Some people have an idea
that a plant which has flowered can be coaxed
back to life ; but if such a thing happens it is very
rare, and the owner of a flowering plant would be
well advised to keep a sharp look-out for seeds,
for, once he obtains seedlings, he is safe for many
years, as it is doubtful whether a seedling will
bloom before it is thirty years of age ; whereas a
plant obtained by the division of an old stock
plant mav blossom and die within a year or two.

Varieties. — Over thirty different kinds of
Bamboos have been introduced which are hardy
iu al! except the coldest parts of the British Isles,
providing a sheltered position is accorded them.
Among the Arundinarias the following deserve
special attention: A. auceps. — A Chinese plant
growing from 7 feet to q feet high, with slender.

plant seen in the illustration on page 205 is this
species. In size of leaf it is only surpassed by one
other hardy Bamboo, that being the Chinese and
Japanese Bambusa tessellata, which, although
only attaining a height of about three feet, often
produces leaves which exceed a foot in length.
Perhaps the hardiest of all Bamboos is A. japonica.
It is often found in old gardens forming
dense clumps 12 feet to 15 feet high and
as far across. The dark green leaves are from
6 inches to 8 inches long. A. nitida is perhaps
the daintiest of all Bamboos, its graceful, arching
branches being clothed with small, elegant, bright
green leaves. It grows from 6 feet to 9 feet high.
The stateliest of the Arundinarias is A. Simonii.
a Chinese species, which grows 18 feet high and
forms wide-spreading clumps. As a contrast
to this we find the Japanese A. pygma?a, which
scarcely grows i foot high. It is useful for forming
large masses by the water-side. More tender than
the foregoing kinds are A. falcata, A. Falconcri,

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

SA.XIFRAGA MARGINATA,

A BEAUTIFUL ROCKFOIL FOR THE ALPINE-HOUSE OR
ROCK GARDEN.

wand-like shoots clothed with dainty, bright green
leaves. A. auricoma. — A Japanese species which
attains a height of from 3 feet to 4 feet. It is of
dense habit, produces slender branches and has
golden-variegated foliage. A. Fortunei. — Although
this grows but a couple of feet high, it is very popular
on account of its silver-variegated foliage. The
Japanese A. Hindsii is an erect-growing plant
10 feet to 15 feet high, of rather coarse habit. It
is surpassed in beauty by its narrow-leaved variety
graminea, which, though quite as tall, is of better
habit and more leafy. A. humilis and A.
chrysantha are two dwarf-growing plants which
attain a height of from 3 feet to 4 feet ; both form
rather dense masses. A. Kumasasa is better known
in most gardens under the name of Bambusa
palmata. It is of very distinct appearance, for
it forms a wide-spreading mass 6 feet to 8 feet
high, clothed with leaves 8 inches to q inches long
and 2 inches to 3 inches wide. The wide-leaved

A. intermedia, A. hookeriana, A. nobilis and A.
racemosa, all large-growing species suitable for a
mild climate.

The Phyllostachys include such graceful plants
as P. aurea, P. flexuosa, P. Henonis, P. mitis,
P. nigra, P. sulphurea and P. viridi-glaucescens,
all tall-growing plants, which form fine clumps
with elegant branches. But perhaps the finest of
all hardy Bamboos is found in P. fastuosa. Of
more erect habit than the majority of the Phyllo-
stachys, it gTows r8 feet or 20 feet high, with
stout branches clothed with showy, deep green
leaves, which keep their colour later in spring
than those of any other hardy Bamboo. A few
species oiJy of Bambusa are grown. One, B.
tessellata, has already been mentioned. B.
angustifolia and B. Nagashima are small-growing
kinds, while B. quadrangularis is remarkable for
its four-angled stems. It is only suitable for the
warmer parts of the country, W. P-

SAXIFRAGA MARGINATA.

AMONG the earliei -flowering members of
f\ the Rockfoil family Saxifraga mar-

/ % ginata takes a foremost position. Its ■,
^^^^ large trusses of pure white flowers are '
» • \-ery charming during the end of March

and the beginning of -April, either grown
in pans in a cold frame for use in the alpine-house or
perched on a rocky ledge in the rock garden. In the
shelter which is afforded by the former mode of
cultivation the flowers are seen to the best advan-
tage, unaffected by the weather, which is often
detrimental to plants flowering at this early period
of thj year. Nevertheless, a group of this Rock-
foil suitably planted in well-drained, gritty soil
in a sunny, sheltered position in the rock garden,
when in flower, is very attractive. The flowers
are of greater substance than many other members
of the Kabschia group, to which this species belongs.
This group consists of about eighteen species of
close-growing, tufted plants with small rosettes
of leaves, which are pitted, and secrete lime along
the margins. They are mostly natives of the
dry, calcareous mountains of Southern Europe. S.
marginata is a native of the Abruzzi in Italy,
and is also said to be found on Mount Taygetus
in Greece. The latter probably is S. Boryi, a
distinct plant, but which is sometimes given
as synonymous with the Italian plant. In the
production of the numerous hybrids which have
appeared in our gardens during recent years,
S. marginata has played a prominent part as a
parent. Of these the best is S. Borisii (marginata
X Ferdinandi-Cobiu-gi), a handsome plant of
free-growing habit with large trusses of rich yellow
flowers on erect stems 3 inches high. It is one
of the best of the later yellow kinds. S. Obristii
(burseriana x marginata) partakes more of the
habit of the former parent in foliage, but has
pure white flowers of greater substance like the
latter. All three are of easy cultivation, their
main requirements being ample drainage and
gritty soil that does not get too dry in summer.
They may be propagated by means of division
in spring after flowering, or by cuttings in
summer. \A' 1.

COLOURED PLATE.

PIiATE 1470

THE HARDY NYMPH^AS OR
WATER LILIES.

[Continued from page 182.)
Varieties. — We have now, thanks in a great
measure to the untiring efforts of the late M. B.
Latour-Marliac, and more recently to his son and
successor, a marvellous selection of hybrids, and
that in surprising variety, both as it pertains to
colour, to vigour and to freedom of growth. There
is an abundant choice now in whites, in pale pinks,
in deeper pinks and rose colours, in reds, in
crimsons of various shades, and in yellows also. Of
these some of the more recently-raised hybrids are
most remarkable, both in purity of colouring, in size
of flowers, in the breadth and substance of the
petals, and in their floriferousness. To look at
some of these later hybrids when in their full beauty
is but to admire them, and even to wonder how
they have been evolved out of those we knew,
say, ten years back. In more than one instance
the season of flowering has' been extended, both

/

H

ttJ
X

April 26, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

207

early and late. Some of the best of these newer
hybrids, so far as I have been able to note them,
are: Whites — N. virginalis (Latour-Marliac, igio),
which is very free-flowering, with flowers of the
largest size, the petals being shell-shaped and of the
purest white. The sepals are very slightly tinged
with faint rose colour at the base, the stamens
being yellow. With us it is the earliest of all to
flower, as well as one of the very latest. Its descrip-
tion anent this by Latour-Marliac is " pr^coce et
tardive," and it well explains this characteristic.
The foliage is large, and has a faint tinge of purple
therein. Of pale pinks, N. Mrs. Richmond (Latour-
Marliac, T910) is, in my opinion, the most lovely
flower imaginable in this the softest of colours.
Of it we have had flowers nearly,
or quite, nine mches in dia-
meter. The petals are broad and
massive, the stamens yellow. The
flowers, when fully expanded, are
a lovely sight. Its vigour, too,
is all that one can desire. It has
flowered now for two seasons with
us, and is gaining in vigour. (See
coloured illustration.) N. formosa
(Latour-Marliac, 1909) is some-
what similar to the preceding in
its colouring, but deepening
towards the centre. The petals
in this instance, I have noted,
are distinctly margined with pale
pink (quite a picotee edge) ; the
growth, also, of this hybrid is
very vigorous. The stamens are
yellow and the flowers of the
largest size. N. somptuosa (Latour-
Marliac, igog), in w-hich the rose
colour is slightly more intensified,
is another acquisition. In form
it very much resembles N. Lay-
dekeri rosea, having that incurved
shape of the petals. The stamens
are of a deep orange tint. I
should add that the petals are more
numerous than in many of these
hybrids ; in addition, also, it is
fragrant. The growth is both
dense and vigorous. N. Newton
.(Latour-Marliac, 1910) is not,
strictly speaking, a pink colour,
having a suffusion of vermilion,
though of a pale shade. Its
flowers are stellate in form and
stand distinctly above the foliage ;
the stamens are orange yellow.
N. Colossea (Latour-Marliac, igor)
is not, strictly speaking, a new
variety; nevertheless, I do not think
it is sufficiently known. It produces LYC.\STE

the largest flowers of any with us,
and is best described as being a
glorified N. Marliacea rosea. I have noted its
flowers in the height of the season as much as
10 inches in diameter. It flowers both early and
late ; the foliage, also, is of the largest size. The
parentage of N. Colossea is given as being N.
maxima alba x N. gloriosa. Of crimsons, the
finest, in my opinion, is N. Escarboncle (Latour-
Marliac, 1909). In its colouring it is almost
unique. We have none that approaches it in
intensity of colour, which is described as a uniform
vermilion red. So far I do not think it is found
in many collections. The stamens are of a deep
vermilion red, very distinct. N. Meteor (Latour-
Marliac, 1909) is somewhat after the preceding.

but not so brilliant in colour. The petals are
streaked with white, but not regularly ; the sepals
are lined with red, and the stamens of a golden
yellow shade. N. Attraction (Latour-Marliac,
igio) resembles somewhat that well-known hybrid
N. atropurpurea. It is, however, much brighter,
and cannot be considered as of the same colour,
which in this instance is a deep bright purplish
crimson with venations of almond white ; the
stamens are of a deep mahogany tint. N.
Conqueror (Latour-Marliac, igio) has very fine
and distinct flowers of the largest size, bright red
in colour, with white veinings occasionally, the
colouring being deeper upon the convex side of
the petals ; the stamens in this instance are orange

du Temple-sur-Lot, N. Marguerite Laplace, N.
Picciola and N. Sirius. These will not be dis-
tributed until they have been exhibited in Paris
when in flower.

There are two other varieties which make up
the trio in the coloured plate of this issue. One
is N. gloriosa (Latour-Marliac, iSg6), the parent-
age of which is given as N. Laydekeri x N.
caroliniana. In its colour and form there is not
one that is finer. The colour needs no descrip-
tion here, but as regards its form it should
be noted that N. gloriosa has, in every perfect
flower, five sepals. It is the first hybrid in which
I have noticed this tendency. This causes the flower
to open more fully, and to show itself to the best
advantage in so doing. N.
gladstoneana is given in Le
Jardin as N. tuberosa gladston-
eana, and the parentage as N.
tuberosa x N. alba (Richardson.
1897). It is a most remarkable
hybrid and one of the finest whites
in cultivation, with no semblance
whatever of pink in the petals ;
instead of which the few touches
of palest green add to its beauty.
The flowers are somewhat after
N. tuberosa in form, being dis-
posed to incurve as in that species.
The flowers are of the largest size,
while the leaves are larger than
any other Water Lily with which
I am acquainted. I suppose this
latter feature is why the moorfowl
oftentimes select it upon which
lo make their nests.

James Hupson, V.M.H.
Gunnersbtiry House Gardens, Aclun.
{To be continued.)

GREENHOUSE.

SKINNERI, A BEAUTIFUL YET EASILY-GROWN
FOR THE amateur's GREENHOUSE.

yellow. The flowers possess great substance in
addition. The foregoing are ten of the finest
of the newer hybrids, so far as I have been able
to prove them. They are all distinct from the
older varieties, and every one possesses the essential
of a vigorous growth.

One other new hybrid, with flowers of a stellate
form, is N. James Hudson (Latour-Marliac, 1912).
Of this I hope to report on another occasion. So
far I have not had a good flower of which I could
form a correct opinion. Others that are to be
sent out this season bid fair to be quite distinct.
Of these I will only give the names of four that
should prove acquisitions. These are N. Gloire

EASILY GROWN ORCHIDS
FOR THE AMATEUR.

Lycastes. — The genus Lycaste
contains several plants which are
largely grown for their useful
and decorative value. The most
popular is L. Skinneri, from
12 inches to 24 inches in height,
while the fleshy, handsome
flowers are usually a beautiful
shade of rose. These are produced
from the base of the last-made
pseudo-bulb, being borne singly
upon erect scapes. There are
various forms of L. Skinneri, such
as alba, a chaste variety with pure
white blooms, and others with paler
and deeper shades of rose, while the
lip in some instances is' distinctly marked with crim-
son. It is an ideal plant for an amateur to choose.
The amount of variation to be found in this species
makes it an interesting subject to buy freshly
imported. It is free-flowering, of easy culture,
and the flowers remain in perfection for several
weeks. Such attributes are not always to be
found wrapped up in a single species. For the
grower who desires other representatives of this
genus, I would suggest the yellow aromatica
and its closely-allied neighbour cruenta.

Cultural Notes. — At this period of the year
L. Skinneri and its numerous varieties will be
past the flowering stage, and the season's growth

208

THE GARDEN.

[April 26, 1913.

will Slum begin. When this is 2 inches or 3 inches
high and a batch of roots are seen pushing out
from the base, any necessary repotting may be
carried out ; but it should be borne in mind that
annual disturbance is not advisable, every second
or third year being sufficient if the watering is
properly carried out. Ordinary flower-pots or
fairly deep pans prove ideal receptacles, which
ought to be filled one-third of their
depth with drainage, over which is
laid a thin layer of fibrous loam.
A suitable rooting medium con-
sists of good loam, fibrous peat
and Osmunda fibre in equal parts,
and to every bushel of the mix-
ture add a 7-inch potful of finely-
crushed potsherds. Having selected
a plant requiring fresh rooting
material, it will be found neces-
sary to remove a large portion of
the old soil, cutting away any
decayed roots and all the useless
back pseudo-bulbs, three behind
each growing point being ample.
When the plant is thus prepared,
the old bulbs should be placed
close to the rim of the pot, which
will bring the new shoot near the
centre, and so leave space for
future development. Work the
soil well between the roots, and
press it moderately firm as the
operation proceeds ; but it must
not be brought above the rim, as
Lycastes enjoy a fair quantity of
water throughout their growing
period. A light position in the
cool or intermediate house will suit
them throughout the year. After
repotting, keep the plants on the
dry side till the roots are seen
creeping to the edge, when the
compost must be kept moist till
the pseudo-bulb is fully matured ; '* .

Nature this often occurs as an epiphyte, finding its
rooting medium in the vegetable debris collected
in the forks of trees. The flowers, which are borne
few m number in a loose head, are pure white,
except for a yellow stain on the upper part of the
interior. As with7, epiphytes in general, this
Rhododendron dislikes a large mass of soil around
the roots. Among the older and well-known

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

but afterwards less moisture is

rv,.

needed until the flower-scapes

appear. As Lycastes come from

fairly high altitudes, fresh air is an

important factor in their successful

cultivation ; but in this country

it must always be admitted with

discretion, and strong currents of

air passing over the plants cannot

be tolerated. .The chief subject of primula

this note, viz., L. Skinneri, may

be termed semi-deciduous, so no

anxiety need be felt by any amateui when he

notices some of the leaves showing signs of

decay. Sentinel.

SWEET-SCENTED GREENHOUSE
RHODODENDRONS.

A DELICIOUS fragrance is a valuable asset in flowers
of any kind, and this feature is very pronounced
in the case of some of the greenhouse Rhododen-
drons, now in flower. Many of these are garden
lorms, and in nearly all cases they inherit the
greater part of their fragrance from the Himalayan
R. Edgeworthii, in which this feature is largely
developed. This species, which is among the most
tender of the Himalayan kinds, is very distinct
from any of the others, the somewhat stifaggling
branches being, especially when young, of a very
woolly character, which feature also extends
to the under sides of the leaves. In a state of

MAXIMOWICZIl, A NEW SPECIES WITH RED
FROM NORTHERN CHINA.

garden forms that owe the greater part of their
fragrance to R. Edgeworthii may be named Princess
Alice, sesterianum, fragrantissimum and Lady
Alice FitzwUliam. An exceedingly free-flowering
and sweet-scented race of Rhododendrons was
raised by the late Mr. Isaac Davis of Ormskirk,
noted as the original raiser of Rhododendron prcEcox.
From the intercrossing of R. Edgeworthii and R.
multiflorum (a garden form) Mr. Davis raised the
following varieties, all of which are remarkable
for their perfume : Countess of Derby, Countess
of Sefton, Duchess of Sutherland, Lady Skelmersdale
and Mrs. James Shawe. Up to the time of the death
of Mr. Davis and the dispersal of his collection one
could always purchase delightful little flowering
plants of these varieties, but they are now very
difficult to obtain from nurseries. This is a great pity,
as most of them flower well in a smaller state than
many other of the Edgeworthii hybrids. H- P.

FIHST-CLASS CERTIFICATE.

Narcissus Mrs. Ernst H. Krelage. — .V hand-
some white Ajax (trumpet) Daffodil, than which
nothing so fine has been seen for some time. A
well-nigh faultless flower of large size, even
balance, bistrous white throughout save for the
lemon yellow reflexing rim of the
crown. From Messrs. Krelage and
Son, Haarlem, Holland.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Narcissus Europa. — This has a
creamy white perianth and lemon
yellow expanding crown. The
flower is of exceptional size. From
Messrs. W. T. Ware, Limited, Bath.

Narcissus Caedmon. — A hand-
some Poeticus variety of excep-
tional size and purity, the slightly-
incurving segments of the perianth
suggestive of the influence of re-
curvus or one of its kin. The
red-rimraed, green-eyed crown
renders the flower quite conspicu-
ous. Shown by Messrs. Barr.

Narcissus St. Olaf. — A Leedsii
form of almost opaque whiteness.
Apart from its good balance, its
substance and firmness of texture
appeal to one at a glance. An
all-white flower save for a touch
of palest lemon in the crown.
Exhibited by Messrs. Barr and
Sons, Covent Garden, W.C. See
illustration on page 204.

Primula Maximowiczii. — A re-
markable novelty from North Chma
and an acquisition withal. In the
rosette of lanceolate leaves there
is more than a suggestion of P.
rosea, the stout scape rising there-
from to the height of i foot or
thereabouts. Flowers cardinal red,
drooping, with slightly-reflexing
lobes, pedicellate, and produced in
whorls, those on the lowest whorl
most numerously disposed.

Androsace tibeticum. — The

habit of the plant is somewhat
similar to A. Chumbyii ; the indi-
"J^'.Xl . vidual flowers are larger, however,

and in their pink and white garb
Flowers ' quite distinct. A beautiful alpine.

Hippeastrum (Amaryllis) Eura-
sian.— A handsome, well-formed
flower of good substance and rich ruby crimson
colour. The plant is of dwarf habit. The three
foregoing novelties were shown by Messrs. James
Veitcli and Sons, Limited, Chelsea.

Auricula Suffragette. — The finely-formed, large,
circular flowers are coloured a rich golden yellow,
and have a well-defined white centre.

Primula viscosa Beauty (P. viscosa x Auricula
Innocence). — The Auricula influence is not marked,
the hybrid presenting all the characteristics of a
good alpine Primrose. The predominant colour
is violet purple ; the eye is white. These were from
Mr. James Douglas, Great Bookham, Surrey.

Helichrysum bellidoides. — An alpuie " Ever-
lasting" witli wliite flower-heads abundantly
produced on 3-inch-high. subsequently trailing
plants. A novelty and a desirable plant withal.
It is quite hardy, flowering naturally in May and
June. Froni Mr. H- Hemsley, Crawley, Sussex,

April 26, 1913.]

THE GAKDEN.

209

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO GROW GOOD RUNNER BEANS.

* MONG amateurs there are few more
/\ popular or highly-appreciated vege-

/ % tables than well-grown Runner Beans.
A~~% Whether they are required solely for
* * the dining-table or for the additional

purpose of exhibiting, good fleshy,
brittle pods are indispensable during the early
autumn, when the Green Peas are on the wane. In
not a few districts amateurs
vie with each other in culti-
vating these Beans to well-nigh
perfection ; and it is with a view-
to providing the beginner in
vegetable culture with some hints
on growing these Beans that we
publish this article.

Preparation of the Soil. —

.\s till- pl.uits are voracious
feeders and appreciate a cool,
moist root-run, no pains should
be spared in providing them
with these essentials. The stout
roots also penetrate the soil to
a considerable depth, so that
it well repays to break it up at
least two spits deep. With the
lower spit plenty of partially-
decayed manure should be mixed.
If the soil contains a prepon-
derance of sand, cow or pig
manure is best ; but if clay is
the principal element, that from
horses is prfferable, though in
many cases the beginner has to
use the best that is obtainable.
With the top spit it is a good
plan to mix some superphos-
phate or steamed bone-meal, a
good hajidful of either to each
yard run of row. In addition,
if the soil is very stiff clay,
some burnt earth, old potting
soil, road scrapings from country
roads, or, indeed, anything of a
porous nature that will tend
to render it more friable may
be added, taking care to mix
it well with the soil. If the
ground can be prepared at once,
it will be in good condition for
sowing the seeds when the time
comes.
Sowing the Seeds. — The time

usually selected for sowing
Runner Beans in the London
district is the second week in
May. The plants are very easily
injured by frost ; hence it is
inadvisable to sow earlier than
the time named. A system that
is much in vogue in cold districts and where early-
crops are desired is to sow- the seeds in pots or
deep boxes and bring the plants along in a cold
frame, transplanting them to their permanent
quarters about the last week in May. Where such
a system is adopted, it is highly essential that
tile plants be grown on as sturdily as possible,
any attempt at forcing growth in a high

temperature resulting in weak, attenuated plants i the plants, but the soot or lime must not touch

that will never give good results. In sowing
outdoors we always like to make a trench
[ about three inches deep and fifteen inches
wide. This facilitates watering during hot
weather. The seeds should be sown in two
rows in the trench, placing them 8 inches apart

the foliage. As soon as the plants begin to run,
stout stakes, twine, or coarse netting must be
placed for them to climb. Six feet is a reasonable
height for the supports, though the plants will
climb nearly twice that height if supports are
available. The system of topping Runner Beans,

in the rows and leaving the row-s about ten inches I as is done in the market gardens, is not one that

we would advocate for garden
cultivation ; wherever a pod rests
on the SOU its flavour is im-
paured. Besides, a well-supported
row of Rtmner Beans makes an
excellent screen in the garden,
a point that ought not to be lost
sight of in selecting the site.
During hot weather, and par-
ticularly when the plants com-
mence to flower, copious supplies
of water must be afforded, and
once a week should be supple-
mented with w-eak liquid manure.
In addition, an overhead syringing
w-ith clean water will prove highly
beneficial and keep that most
dreaded of all pests, red spider,
at bay. When the plants reach
the tops of their supports, the
growing point of each should be
nipped out, an operation that
may have to be repeated several
times.

Some Good Varieties.— There

are a number of good varieties
now obtainable, preference being
given to those with long, fleshy
pods. A good type of this section
is shown in the accompanying
illustration, the variety being
Carter's Red Giant. With

ordinary cultivation, on the lines
suggested above, this variety last
year produced a heavy crop of
pods, most of which measured
from 10 inches to 12 inches
long. Hackwood Park ' Success,
Suttcjn's Prizewinner and Best
of All, Mammoth White, Painted
Lady and Webb's New Exhibition
are all varieties that one can
thoroughly recommend. H.

RUNNER BEAN RED GIAN'T, A LONG-PODDED VARIETY OF
HIGH QUALITY.

SOWING MlGaVONETTE.

We take this opportunity of re-
minding readers that this sweet-
scented plant may still be sown to
prolong the supply of bloom. There
is much to be said in favour of
growing Mignonette, as well as
Violas, as a grotmdwork to beds of
Two inches is about the right depth Roses, although the very keen rosarian might raise

' an objection to this procedure. Mignonette is a
very accommodating subject, and may be used
to furnish any odd corner in the garden. It seems
hardly necessary to remind readers that slugs are
very partial to the Mignonette in its seedling stage.
These pests may be kept at bay by occasionally
dusting soot aroimd the seedlings.

asunder,
to sow.

After-Treatment. — When the seedlings appear,
steps must be taken to guard them against slugs,
which are particularly fond of them. Apart from
trapping the pests, which is the most satisfactory
method of all, some fine coal-ashes, soot, or soot
and lime may be sprinkled rather thickly round

210

THE GARDEN.

[April 26, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

m Violets. — There are various systems employed
for raising a stock of Violets for flowering during
the winter and spring, but the simplest method
is to plant out the young rooted side shoots on
ground that has been well prepared some little time
beforehand ; this should be done as soon as the
crop of bloom is over in the frames.

Cuttings put in during the autumn in a frame
or under hand-lights should also be planted in
the open ground at once, giving a fair distance
between the plants. These latter will not need
so much attention, should the weather be warm,
as the first mentioned, owing to theh: being better
rooted, and they certainly make larger plants.

Violas. — Named varieties propagated in the
autumn should now be removed to their flowering
quarters, either in the borders or, it may be, to
furnish the beds under Roses. Though I do
not recommend this for the sake of the Roses,
one is obliged to admit that the Violas in many
instances make a good show in such a position.

Plants for Summer Bedding.— Where Violas

are intended to be used as a groundwork to other
plants for summer bedding, they may have to
remain some three or four weeks in the stock
beds. Such plants should have the blooms removed,
and when the young plants are inclined to be rather
leggy, they may be pinched to induce a more bushy
habit' of growth. Needless to add, wherever
Violas are wanted for a summer show here in the
South, a fairly cool and moist position must be
selected.

Labelling Plants. — No matter how careful one
is to try to keep labels in their proper positions,
it often happens that some get displaced or the
writing obliterated, so that it is advisable to go
round the borders as the various classes of plants
come into bloom, labelling those that require it.

Plants Under Glass.

The Conservatory. — Just now the conservatory
should be very gay with such plants as Cineraria,
Schizanthus, Amaryllis and Calceolaria, and to
prolong their flowering period a fair amount of
shade must be given during bright sunlight.

Climbing Plants, such as Fuchsias, Habro-
thamnus, Tacsonias, Abutilons and Heliotropes,
to be planted out later should be kept tied and
thinned, according to the space they have to cover,
and if on the roof, must be kept very carefully
thinned, or plants underneath are very apt to
suffer.

Primulas. — For an early batch of plants seeds
may now be sown of P. sinensis, P. stellata, P.
obconica and P. malacoides. From such a sowing
they should flower in the autumn, but for spring
lilooming sowing a month or six weeks hence
should be quite soon enough.

Maidenhair Ferns. — Batches of these that have
not been repotted and that are growing freely
should be fed fairly regularly either with liquid
manure or artificial manure, giving this latter about
once a week in small doses. If required for con-
servatory work, too much moisture must not be
given, or the fronds will become soft, and there is
danger of the small inside fronds damping where
the plants are at all dense.

The Vegetable Garden.

Globe Artichokes. — To keep up the stock of
this vegetable in a healthy condition it is advisable
to break up and replant a portion of it each season,
and the present is a very suitable time to do it.
Suckers from the old plants should be planted
in a deeply-cultivated and manured piece of gromid
in rows about four feet apart, allowing at least a
yard between the plants ; and, should the weather
become dry soon after planting, it may be necessary
to give a good watermg to prevent undue flagging.

Asparagus. — This delicious vegetable should
now be giving good strong heads, and wherever
possible It is advisable to break these off rather
than to cut them, as many young heads are often
injured below the ground. Keep the surface of
the soil clear of weeds, and give occasional
dressings of Asparagus manure during showery
weather.

Chicory. — This useful winter salad plant should
be sown during the next few days, preferably as
a continuation to the bed of Salsify and Scorzonera,
and at about the same distance apart, thinning
the plants to about nine inches apart when they
are large enough to withstand the ravages of slugs.

Brassicas. — Another sowmg of Brassicas should
now be made, chiefly of late varieties of Kale,
Coleworts, Savoys and Broccoli. These late
batches of plants often prove more useful than
the earlier ones, especially when they have to be
planted after the ground is cleared of some of the
early crops of Peas and other vegetables.

Fruits Under Glass.

Pot Vines. — The fruit on the earliest pot Vines
will shortly commence colouring, and to secure
evenness in colouring the plants should be carefully
turned round occasionally ; this, of course, if
they are not allowed to root into the border. Water
must not be stinted, though as colouring progresses
rather less may be used about the house, and more
ventilation may be given, though draughts from
the front ventilators must be avoided.

Permanent Houses must be very carefully
looked after in respect to ventilation, especially
where the fruit is stoning. If a little air is left on
all night, there is not much danger from scalding ;
but if shut up close and the house gets the full
benefit of early morning sun, unless air is put on
before the temperature rises unduly there is
considerable danger, and many good bunches
may be spoilt.

Hardy Fruits.

Peaches on Walls. — As soon as the shoots are
forward enough, thinning should be commenced.
It is not advisable to do this all at once — just a few
growths from each shoot or branch, commencing
by taking off the back shoots and a few on the
under side, always bearmg in mind that it is the
basal shoots and perhaps one or two on the upper
sides of the branches that are required to furnish
the next season's fruiting wood. Go over the
trees two or three times before reducing the shoots
to the desired number.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wobiini Place Gardens, Aihllesloiie, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Primula Sieboldii. — Those who have only seen
individual pkmts or small patches of this lovely
Primula can have no idea of the effect produced
by masses of it. Here we have several beds ui
various shades — white, lilac and crimson. I
would strongly recommend its extended cultiva-
tion. Give it a cool bottom and a light, rich soil,
and it will increase rapidly by means of its creeping
roots.

Perpetual-Flowering Carnations.— This accom-
modating class of Carnations has not been much
drawn upon for the flower garden in Scotland
yet, I believe ; but I know one garden where the
plants have been tried with success for the past two
seasons. Those who have some year old plants
of varieties like Britannia and Mrs. Burnett might
do worse than try them in the open, and the
present is a good time to plant.

Planting Gladioli. — Named florists' varieties
which have been forwarded in pots should now
be planted out. As indicated some weeks ago,
Gladioli — this class especially — require liberal culti-
vation. A fairly rich, rather light, deeply-wrought
soil is what they want, and, like all bulbous plants,
they are impatient of stagnant moisture.

Dahlias.— Whether old tubers or young plants,
these must now be got into cold frames and gradually
hardened off. Give old tubers plenty of flaky
leaf-mould to root in.

The Rose Garden.

Aphis.— This pest, like the poor, is always
with us ; happily, however, it is not difficult to
deal with. Quassia Chips Extract, XL All Liquid
Insecticide and Gishurst Compound are all
effectual remedies ; but the same result can be
obtained by syringing with a solution of soft soap
and water, at the rate of a good handful of soft

soap to a bucketful of water. If the operation is
repeated with clean water two hours later, no
traces of the soft soap will remain,

Aerating the Soil. — This is a very important
point in Rose cultivation, and the soil should be
stirred at least once a fortnight by means of the
Dutch hoe.

Plants Under Glass.

Begonias. — Those of the tuberous section will
now be ready for their final shift, and the size of
the pot must be regulated by the age and vigour
of the plant. Afford ample drainage, use a fairly
rich, porous soil, and do not pot too firmly. These
plants resent coddling on the one hand and cold
draughts on the other ; they enjoy comparative
shade.

Herbaceous Calceolarias. — As the flower-stems
develop, staking must be attended to, using Bamboo
tips or some other slender form of stake. As the
blooms develop they must be shaded from bright
sunshine, or the flowering period will be curtailed.
If there is the least appearance of aphis, vaporise
now.

Sowing Cinerarias. — The main batch of these
should now be sown in a cool frame. Water the
soil in the box or pan two hours or so previous
to sowing. Cover the seeds lightly with a little
fine soil and a sheet of glass, and shade lightly till
germination takes place.

Fruits Under Glass.

Orchard Fruits. — The <jccupants of the orchard-
house will now have all set their fruits and will
require close attention. Thinning the fruits should
be commenced early and spread over a week or
two. It is more creditable to have a fair quantity
of fruits of good size and quality than to have
double the quantity of small, inferior fruits. Feed-
ing is also very important, as the tree depends largely
upon the nutriment thus given. Weak and
frequent doses should be the rule. Potash must
be given in some form if the best results are to be
obtained. One other point to be remembered
is that if the soil is even once allowed to become
quite dry, the damage caused to the current crop
is practically irreparable.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Spring Frosts. — in our liclde climate frosts
frequently occur about this period, especially in
low-lying gardens or those a considerable distance
inland. On this account many a crop of fruit
has been ruined. It is worth while to take the
trouble on a frosty night to throw a piece of old
netting over any tree of special value, and a break
of Gooseberries or Currants might be saved by
running one or two nets over them.

Removing Suckers. — Plum trees have a knack
of sending up suckers from the stocks, and these
should be promptly removed with the hoe or knife.
Gooseberries also occasionally throw up suckers,
and must be^imilarly dealt with.

The Vegetable Garden.

Kidney Beans. — A good sowing should now be
made of some reliable main crop variety, such as
Canadian Wonder, and for this type of Bean the
drills should be about two feet apart. A little
wood-ash sown into the drills will prove beneficial.

Runner Beans. — A sowing of this useful crop
should now be made. I find it a good plan to
sow two drills about two and a-half feet apart,
and then allow about double the distance before
the next pair of drills are drawn. It is unnecessary
to get in between the two closer rows.

Leeks for Exhibition. — Leeks which have been
raised under glass and potted up should now be
fit for planting. A trench similar to a Celery
trench should be prepared for them, and if some
turfy soil, such as the parings of grass edgings,
is available, so much the better. A layer of well-
rotted farmyard manure should be placed in the
bottom of the trench, and then the trench should
be partly filled in with a mixture of the turf —
chopped up, of course — rotted manure and bone-
meal, with a little soot. Plant in a single row at
r foot apart.

Early Potatoes. — As the foliage develops, a
little drv earth should be drawn up to it to protect
it from late frosts. The ground between the drills
should also be loosened with the diggmg - fork
prior to earthing up the crop.

Charles Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

April 26, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

211

THE FIFTY BEST ALPINES. THE FLOWER GARDEN.

M'

R. KARRER, in his selection of
ftity alpines, has picked out some
gems, which could only be expected
of him, and he also invites other
selections. I now give my selec-
tion of hfty, and, as is usual among
alpiue-lovers, one is siu"e to differ from another.
In the first place, Mr. Farrer has chosen the awl-
leaved setacea group of Phloxes, which are very
fine, especially in a showery season, but suffer more
from drought than any other rock plants that
I loiow, and unless thoroughly watered each day
when in full bloom, would be completely burnt up
in a day or so it bright, sunny weather prevailed, and
further South would, I should think, be a difficult
plant to manage in any but a showery season.
It does not winter so well as a great many other
plants. Mr. Farrer has also given four Geraniums,
which are very fine, but he does not mention the
gem of them all, G. tuberosum. These different
lists, with their concise cultural hints, are of the
greatest assistance to those who essay to grow
alpines, about the cultural requirements and value

SWFET PEA NOTES.
Planting Out. — Generally speaking, there is
not the slightest need to xirge Sweet Pea growers
to get the plants into their permanent positions ;
on the contrary, the principal trouble is to persuade
them to exercise reasonable patience in the matter ;
but there are always a few laggards, and it is to
these that this brief paragraph is specially directed.
Those who have plants still in pots or boxes in the
greenhouse, frame, or standing out of doors must
plant them immediately. It is, of course, most
important when the plants are in pots, because
they will inevitably become rootbound ; and while
one has not the slightest objection to shaking
out the roots, one would not desire to tear them
all to pieces in the process. Besides that, the
roots are certain to harden, and therefore an un-
desirable check to progress follows upon the plant-
ing. The popular objection to sowing Sweet
Peas indoors with a view to transplantation is
that they cease growing entirely for some days
when put in their flowering quarters ; but this
is not the case when proper care is taken in handling

of which there is evidently some considerable j the roots and in choosing a time when the soil
diversity of opinion. It would be surprising | is in an ideal state for such an important operation,
if there was not a wide difference of opinion I The holes must be exceptionally deep and, needless
as to the best fifty alpines, nothing but good, | to say, the soil must be fertile,
however, can result from the publication of these | Late Sowing. — It is not uncommon, for reasons
diffe'-ent ideas. ' over which the owner of a garden desiring to grow

Name.

Height.
Inchei.

Aspect

Soil.

Adonis pyrcnaica 12

Anemone sulphiirua 18

Androsacc lanu^^inosa —

Autlicmis Aizoon 6

Aquile'_'ia tzlandiilosa 12

Arenaria laliarica 1

A. montaua uraiidiflora 6

Arnebia cchioidus ..." 9

Aster alpiniui 9

Atraiiene alpina 60

Aubriotia Dr. Mules 4

Campanula G. F. Wilson .... 6

C. muralis 6

Cyclamen Coum 4

Cypripedium Calceolus 12

Sun Rich loam . .

,, Sandy loam

,, Light loam

Sandy loam

Open Rich soil

Shade Loam or ^rit

Sun Light loam . .

,, Sandy loam

,, Light loam . .

,, Rich loam . .

,, Sandy loam

Open Light loam . .

Shade Rich loam . . . .

Half sliade . . Loam and peat

•Cytisus keweiLsis

Dianthus alpinus 4

Daphne Cncomm 12

Draba aizoides 3

Dryas octopetala 6

EdJaianthus serpyllifolius major 4
Eriuus alpinus carmineus .... 6

Gentiana acaulis 3

G. verna 3

Geranium tuberosum 6

Habcrlea rhodopensis 6

Hutchinsia alpina ,

Hepatica angulosa

Hypericum replans

Lithospermum prostratum
Mertensia primuloides . . .

Myosotis rupicola .
Oxalis enneaphylla.
Papaver alpinum .

— Sun Sandy loam

Loam and peat
Sandy loam

Half shade . . ,,

Sun Light loam .

,, Limy loam .

,, Rich loam . . . .

Shade Peaty loam . . . .

Sun Loam

Sun or shade Moist loam

Sun Sandy loam . .

,, Limy loam . . . .

Open Loam

Pldox canadensis Laphamii . . 9

P. reptans v 6

Polygala ChamEebuxus purpurea 6

Suu Light loam . .

Shade Sandy loam

Suu Light soil .

, , Light loam . .

Half shade .

Peat and loam

Potentilla nitida

Primula marijinata

P. clusiana ,

Ramondia pyrenaica

Saponaria ocymoides splendi

dissima
Saxifraga bm^eriaua major , .
S. pyramidalis

Sun Sandy loam . .

Open Limy loam ....

Open or sun Peaty loam

Half shade . . Peaty soil

r^jn,,,- Flowering Method of

notour. Period. Propagation,

Yellow .... April - May Seed or division

Sulphur . . May - June Seed

Pink . . . . May — Sept. Cuttings

White .... June — Aug. Division

Blue <t white May Seed

Wliite .... May — July Division

.... May - June Cuttings

Yellow .... May — Sept. Cuttings or division

Violet .... June Division or seed

Violet purple June - July

Purple April - May Cuttings

Violet August . . Division

Aug. - Sept. ,,

Rose Nov. — M'ch Seed^

Brown and May - June Division

yellow

Creamy yell'w May - June Seeds

Deep red . . June - July Seed or cuttings

Pink July - Aug. Cuttings

Yellow March-April Division

^Vhit.e July - Aug. .,

Purple .... May — July „

Rosy purple ,, Seeds

Azure M'ch — June Division

Blue April - May ,,

Purple .... June ,,

Lilac purple June -July Seed or division

White .... April • May Di\'ision

Blue Jan. — -April ,,

Golden yellow July - Aug. ,,

Deep blue . . April — Oct. Cuttings

Plumbago J une - July Division

blue

Deep blue . . May — July

White May— Oct.

White, gold,
pink, orange

Plumbago May — July

blue
Rose .... , , , , J ,

Purple and Oct. — May Division

yellow

Rose pink . . May — Sept.

Lavend'r blue April - May Division

Rich rose . . March- April Seed or division

Violet piuple May — July

Seed

Division

Seed

Division or cuttings

Sun Any soil Rosy crim.son Summer

4 Partial shade Loam and grit White Feb. -March

24 ,, ,. White, sp'tfd June-July

crimson

,, ,, White May - Juue

9 Shade Rich loam , ,

4 Half shade.. Loam and grit Red April — June

6 Sun Cow-maniU'e and Rose June — Aug.

clay

5 ,, Sandy loam and Purplish rose Mav - June

grit

4 Half shade . . Sandy loam . . Blue June - Julv

• Prostrate.
The Gardens, Ashby St. Ledgers, Rugby.

S. lougifolia 18

S. lingxilata lantoscana ....

S. bathonien-^is

Sempervi\'um arachnoideura

Silene Schafta

Veronica fupestris

Division

Seed or division
Division

Seed or division
G. F. Hyland.

Sweet Peas has no control, to be unable to sow
under cover in the autumn or the spring, or out of
doors at the middle of March, which is usually
accepted as somewhere near the best time in the
South of England. Someone with a mania for
early sowing tells him that it is useless to start
at the end of April, as the plants will never proceed
so satisfactorily as to ensure a plenteous crop
of good flowers. Take no notice of such a man.
If it has been impossible to sow before the present
date, sow as soon afterwards as can be managed.
It is, of course, necessary that the. soil shall be
in perfect mechanical condition, and that there
shall be an abundant supply of readily available
food, not, for preference, in the form of natural
manure near the roots. Place the seeds not less
than 3 inches apart on a firm, level base, and cover
the dark brown and black seeds with half an inch
of mould, but simply press the white and spotted
seeds into the surface. When the time arrives
for thirming, remove plants as may be necessary
to leave the distance 6 inches. This will not con-
duce to the production of blooms with stems a
couple of feet in length ; but that will not matter,
as the object of culture is not exhibition blooms,
but plenty for home decoration.

Pinching Laterals. — The man who must be
there will pinch out every lateral directly he can
see it, and when this is done, the next best thing
is to let the plants flower, or the result will be
coarseness in an unenviable degree. If blooming
is permitted until a given date before a show,
the tendency to grossness will have received some
check, and the stems will be of splendid substance,
the blooms of fine size and form and artistically
set, instead of being on the floppy side and widely
separated on the stalk. Some pinching of laterals
is always necessary, even when the primary idea
is plenty of flowers ; but it should not be carried
to an unreasonable extent.

Training the Plants.— The grower for exhi-
bition shows much better judgment than the man
who cultivates for immense quantities of blossoms,
because the latter is usually inclined to let the
plants grow anyhow and anywhere, provided
they go up the supports. This is not wise.
Although one must, of course, give more time
to the plants when tying is done, it pays over and
over again. Vigorous shoots do not always go
in the direction that will favom: or ensure the
most gratifying results ; but when the grower
takes the trouble to train them, he sees to it that
they go where he wants them to go. No matter
whether the plants are grown to one, two, or three
stems — few people let more than the last number
remain nowadays — tying must be done m loose,
secure hgatures, the most scrupulous care being
exercised not to draw the growths in so closely
that a formal appearance is given to the mdividual
plants and to the rows.

THE EDITOR'S TABLE.

Beautiful Flowers from Berkhamsted.—

A box o£ delightful flowers, comprising Blue
Primroses, Arctotis aureola and Rose Fortune's
Yellow, has been sent to us by Mr. A. G. Gentle,
gardener to Mrs. E. H. Denison, Little Gaddesden,
Berkhamsted, Herts. The flowers reflect the
highest credit upon the cultivator, while we have
nothing but praise for the admirable strain of Blue
Primroses that were sent. Mr. Gentle sends the
following note with the flowers : " I am sending
for your table a few of each of the many different

212

THE GARDEN.

[April 26, 1913.

shades of Blue Primroses that are now in flower
in these gardens. I also enclose a few flowers
of that beautiful greenhouse plant Arctotis aureola,
which I am surprised is not more often grown.
It is free-flowering, and at this time of the year
very useful for decoration, as it lasts a long time
in water. The few Fortune's Yellow Roses are
nearly the last. I have cut over seven hundred
blooms off the one tree this year. We used to
think it good to get 5oo, but these last two years
the number has been over seven hundred. I planted
the tree about twelve years ago. I think you will
agree that the colour of the Roses is very good."
Carnations from Guernsey. — Mr. C. F. A.

van der Sluys, the well-kno%vn Carnation-grower
of Ramee, Guernsey, sends flowers of Perpetual-
flowering and Perpetual Malmaison Carnations.
These include many of the best and latest varieties,
and all the blooms show signs of good cultivation.
The value of these flowers for cutting can scarcely
be over-estimated.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
make The GAiti>t:N helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one sid& of the paper only,
and addressed to tJie Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of tlie sender are required in iuldition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a eeparate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, w/iere possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not cfiuracterstic of the plant. Letters
on business sliould be sent to the PUBLISHER.

FLOWER GARDEN.

ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUSES UNDER YEW

{Miss M .). — The plants may flower in the position oqco.
though much would depeiid upou tlie top spread of the
branches of the tree and the dryness of the situation.
In any case it would not be well to plant within 0 feet of
the bole of the tree, as the gro\vth will of necessity become
drawn and, of course, will favour the direction of light.
If you are contemplating planting this season, the work
should be done at once.

GODETIAS AND CLARKIAS {Dr. H. S.).—li the soil
is light and well drained and tlie plants have responded
to the earlier priclilng out or transplanting, they would
do so again if taken in hand early. Where the soil is sandy
or stony, sowing in the open about mid-March gives
excellent results. In your own case, where the soil is
of a retentive nature, a good way would be to raise seed-
lings in boxes or pans, prick tlirec or four into a small
pot, and subsequently plant these when requilred. We
are not sure what Centaureas you are referring to. The
forms of C. cyaneua are best sown in the open. Those
of the Sweet Sultan class (C. moscliata) should be sown
three or four seeds in a 4-inch pot, and transplanted bodily
when of sutficient size.

PENTSTEMONS AND OTHER PLANTS {St. Mary's
Cliurch). — The Pentstemon is a true perennial, without
doubt, though the florists' varieties of it are not hardy
in all districts. Those of the Gem class, Newbury Gem
and others, are hardier. If you are growing the former,
the best results would be secured by sowing seeds in warmth
in January, or by looting cuttings in autumn and wintering
in a frame or greenliouse. t'orget-me-nots, if cut back
after flowering, should, with the lapse of a week or two,
be divided and planted in lines. They make nice tufts
for autumn planting when so treated. These things are
also easily raised from seeds. The border Carnation
should be layered in July. In a few instances the layered
plants may be allowed to remain to flower without replant-
ing, though this method cannot be generally recommended.
Potting up the layers in September or replanting them
is the best course to pursue.

THE GARDEN GENTIANELLA {Will Bruce).— It is
difl&cult to lay down hard-and-fast rules in respect to
this fine plant, and we know of instances where it thrives
and flowers well in cool, loamy clay with little sand, in
light, sandy loams, and in peaty soils. Generally speaking,
it grows and flowers most freely in light, sandy loams
wliich are deficient in lime, though it is known to do well

in limestone soils, also in light, loamy soils over sand,
and in gravel. The plant rarely gives much trouble
and, by planting 'moderately small pieces in October or
between that and February, success may be assured.
To the light soil well-decayed leaf-mould may be added.
It is important, that firm planting be indulged in, and
that the.plant be inserted low down. In parts of Ireland
the plant revels in peaty soils and the moisture-laden
atmosphere. Extremes of dryness should be studiously
avoided. It appears also to have a fondness for th'e
cooling influence of old red sandstone, and some of this,
if at hand, might be finely pulverised and mixed with
soils of a more holding natiire.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

BEAUTIFYING PARKLAND {E. M. M.) —The best thing
to do with your park would be to introduce a number of
groups of irregular shape of Gorse, Broom, Thorns, common
juniper, various^ species of Kosa, such as'R. canina, R.
rubiginosa, K. nigosa and R. arvensis, Sloe, common
Berberis and Brambles, with a few groups and isolated
specimens of, common trees, such asjEeech, Oak, Elm
and Hornbeam. The remainder of the park might then
be mown for hay, as at present, and pastured later on.
It would be necessary to protect the shrubs and trees
with low fences until they were large enough to look
after tliemselves, both on account of hares and cattle.
We do not think you would find it a satisfactory
method of dealing with the park to stop mowing alto-
gether, for the grass would become very coarse, especially
if tliere were no animals to eat it off. By forming natural-
looking groups of trees and shrubs and protecting them
for a time, the park ought gradually to assume the appear-
ance desired. Bracken may also be tried, but it is a very
difficult plant to establish in many places, although such
a pest elsewhere. Here and there the groups of shrubs
and Bracken should be of considerable size.

THE GREENHOUSE.

UNCOMMON GREENHOUSE FLOWERS (Tf. £.).—
Uncommon subjects that might suit your purpose are
Amphicome Emodii, Cliantluis puniceus albus, Erlangea
tomentosa, Gerbera (new hybrids), Tecoma Smitliii and
Rehmannia angulata Pink Perfection.

SMILAX TURNING YELLOW (iViO-— There is nothing
on the foliage of the Smilax to account for the yellowing
except a few green flies. They do not seem to be suffi-
ciently numerous to have caused it. There may possibly
be some scale insect lower down than the pieces you send,
otherwise we think the trouble is the result of some error
in cultivation.

BELLADONNA LILY {P.). - Amaryllis Belladonna
flowers naturally in the autumn, and then commences
to grow directly afterwards. We can scarcely understand
your bulbs being dormant now unless they are imported
ones. Tlie rational way to treat the Belladonna Lily when
it is grown in pots is, as soon as the blossoms are over,
to give it a good position in a frame or cool house and
keep it growing during the winter. Towards the end of
spring or in early summer it will go to rest, when the pot
should be fully exposed to the sun and the soil kept almost
dry. By the end of August or thereabouts signs of growth
will be apparent, the flower-spike being the flrst to show,
and then water must be given. As yours is still dormant,
we should advise it being moderately watered, in order
to start it into growth as quickly as possible. When
the pots are well furnished with roots, it may be fed.
It will, in all probability, be late in dying down, but in
any case a certain amount of rest is essential. The
after-treatment must be as advised above.

CULTIVATION OF CASSIA (Captain R. H. V.).—
The Cassia referred to is, in all probability, C. corymbosa,
which requires the protection of a greenhouse. It is a
free-growing shrub, whose pinnate leaves are of a deep
green colour, and the golden, Pea-shaped blossoms are
borne in summer and autumn. It forms a handsome
bush in the conservatory, is well suited for training to
the back wall of a greenhouse, providing it gets plenty of
light, and may be sometimes seen during the summer
planted out in parks and gardens in the beds of large
miscellaneous subjects wliich are now so generally popular.
Its cultural requirements are not at all exacting, as it
may be given much the same treatment as a Fuchsia,
except that, being evergreen, it must not be kept dry in
the winter. At that season it needs a minimum tempera-
ture of 45° to 50°. Ordinary potting compost, such as
a mixture of loam, peat, or leaf-mould and sand, will suit
it well. When old it flowers profusely, but seedling plants
need to attain a fair size before they bloom freely. It
may be placed out of doors during the summer montlis,

GLOXINIAS AND CYCLAMEN (0. B.).— After the
Gloxinias have done blooming they must be treated
as before till the leaves die down and tl^e plants go to
rest. Yours will, in all probability, produce a few blooms
for some time yet. Then, as they die down in the autumn,
keep them quite dry and in a structure where a minimum
temperature of 45° to 50* is maintained. Early in the
year they may be shaken quite clear of the old soil and
repotted in some good compost. Little water will be
needed till they start into growth. Like the Gloxinias,
the Cyclamen must be treated as before till the leaves
die down, which will probably be towards the end of May
or early in June, Then keep them dry for a month or
six weeks, after which the corms must be shaken quite
clear of the old soil and repotted in a mixture of loam,
leaf-mould, silver sand and, if available, a little brick
rubble. After they are potted an occasional damping
overhead will be beneficial, but do not give too nmch
water at the roots till the young leaves make their appear-
ance, A frame in a partially-shaded position is the best

for them at this season. As the plants grow, plenty of
air will be needed, and they are greatly benefited by
exposure to light rain and the night dews which often
prevail in August. By the middle of September they
should have formed good plants ready to be taken into
the greenhouse.

FRUIT GARDEN.

RED SPIDER ON VINES {M. 0. £,).— It is early
for red spider to appear on Vmes, and if it is not imme-
diately destroyed it will do no end of mischief to your
Vines, the foliage being now so soft and tender. To kill
red spider with XL All, or with any other fumigator, it is
necessary to apply a strone dose, unfortunately too strong
for the Vine foliage to stand in its present soft and
immature condition. There is nothing else for it, then,
but to sponge the affected foliage carefully over with tepid
rain-water and Calvert's Soft Soap, using not more than a
wineglassful of soap to a gallon of water. It is tedious work,
but if you will stick to it, it will soon be done. Keep a
sharp look-out afterwards and apply the same remedy the
moment another spider is seen, and you will get rid of the
spiders in time,

INSECTICIDE FOR APPLE TREES (C. D.).—Yo\i do
not say what pests you aim at destroying, and, of course,
that is a very important thing, for indiscriminate spraying
is an evil rather than a good. Fungi, sucking insects,
such as green flies and scale insects, and caterpillars
all need diflerent kinds of treatment. For sucking insects
probably Quassia and soft soap will serve best, and it
may be made by gently boiling lib. of Quassia chips
in water for a couple of hours. Dissolve half a pound
of soft soap in warm water and stir in the strained
Quassia extract, adding sufficient water to make up ten
gallons. For caterpillars and other biting insects arsenate
of lead paste is best, and it should be used in tlie propor-
tions directed on the tins. Nicotine washes are also of
great use against green flies and so on, and should be
bought ready-made.

SMALL PEAR TREE PROFUSELY BLOOMED (A. L.).
— A small tree like this so lioavily laden with fruit already
set is deserving of all tlie care you can give it. As
you say, the tree will cast off some of the surplus fruit
itself later on, but It will have no occasion to do so if you
in the meantime will gradually ease it of the burden
it is unable to bear. Go over the tree carefully as soon
as the fruit is set, and in the flrst place cut out all the
badly-formed and small fruit in each bunch, leaving only
five frmts, and then in about another fortnight go over
the tree again, still cutting out the smallest of the fruits
until there are only two left on each branch. Later still,
when all danger of any fruit falling is past, you should
reduce the number of fruits in a bunch to one, that, of
course, being the finest. You will then have a good crop
of fine fruit. Give the tree a good soaking of weak manure-
water from the stable or cow-yard immediately, and mulch
the surface of the soil over its roots with a dressing of
rotten manure 3 inches deep.

MISCELLANEOUS.

QUASSIA EXTRACT {Nortfi Wales).— This is obtain-
able both as a powder and in a liquid form. That which
tlie writer of the article referred to uses is Bentley's Extract
of Quassia, a liquid. A 3-inch potful is sufficient for
three and a-half to four gallons of water.

TO KILL WORMS IN POTS (Nil).— Get about half
an ounce of carbon bisulphide, make a hole in the soil
of the pot, pour in the carbon bisiUpltide,and immediately
close the hole. This will cause the death of the worms
without injury to the plant, so long as the liquid does not
come in contact with any large roots.

LARVffi FOR INSPECTION (Hawick).— The two grubs
readied us very dried up, but so far as we can tell they
appear to be tlie larvee of the St. Mark's fly, one of them
more advanced than the other These grubs feed for
the most part on decaying vegetable matter, but when
they are abundant and food scarce they may attack the
roots of plants. Carbon bisulphide injected into the
soil at the rate of about half an ounce to the square yard,
pouring boiling water on the groups of them, or the
use of some soil fumigant round any particular plant,
will do a good deal towards checking their attacks.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— iVo Name.— I, Centranthus
ruber ; 2, Pilea muscosa ; 3, Saxifraga canaliculata ;
4, Dicentra formosa ; 5, no specimen ; 6, Streptosolen

Jamesonii ; 7, Arenaria montana. W. G. — 1, Lycaste

species; 2, Dendrobium species. Specimens too imperfect

to identify correctly. Stranger. — 1, Aucuba japonica

variegata ; 2, A. japonica ; 3, Elaeagnus pungens ; 4,
Laurus nobilis ; 5, Ilex Aquifolium variegatum ; 6,
Quercus Ilex ; 7, Euonymus japonicus ; 8, Prunus Lauro-
cerasus ; 9, Viburnum Tinus ; 10, Euonymus japonicus
variegatus ; 11, Cotoueaster horizontalis ; 12, Veronica
Traversii ; 13, Sciadopitys verticillata ; 14, Cytisus
species ; 15, Forsythia suspensa ; 16. Muehleubeckia
varians ; 17, Magnolia stellata ; 18, Prunus serrulata ;
19, Meeembryanthemum species ; 20, Hypericum species ;
21, Jasrainum officinale ; 22, Olearia Haastii ; 23, Pyrus
floribunda ; 24, Santolina Chamacyparissus ; 25,
Artemisia Abrotanum ; 26, Alyssum t^axatile ; 27, Epi-
medium species ; 28, Arabis albida ; 29, Centaurea
montana ; 30, Doronicum plantagineum ; 31, Galega
officinalis ; 32, Muscaria conicum ; 33, Polygonum
cuspidatum ; 35, Iris foBtidissima variegata ; 34 and 36,

specimens too scrappy. Crinum. — The flower sent is

that of an Amaryllis seedling of no special merit. The

cross has not been eftected George Dean. — The

Butcher's Broom (Ruscus aculeatus).

^*L

|,W^^-

GARDEN.

-^^=

No. 2163.— Vol. LXXVII.

May

1913-

GONTBNTS.

Notes of the Week 213

Correspondence
Arranf^ements at the
London Daffodil

Show 214

Saxifraga burscriana 214
Azara miciophylla

at Stranraer . . 215
Primula viscosa hy-
brids 215

Zonal Pelargonium
Maxime Kovalev-

sky 215

Prizes for the Best
JJOCK Gardens . .
Forthcoming events . .
Science in Relation
Horticultcke
Treatment of disease
in plants
Trees and Shrubs
Notes on Lilacs
A distinct Barberry
Rose Garden
Seasonable work
among the Roses
Flower Garden
Some good Pent-
steraons for beds
and borders

215

215

Gardens of To-Day
Spring flowers at
Clandon Park .. 218

Greenhouse
Some good flowering
Cacti 219

Daffodil Xotfs

The London DatTodil
Show, 1913.. .. 219

Narcissus Emerald

Eye 220

Gardening for Beginners

The Polyanthuses :
How to raise and
grow them with

success -^1

Gardening op the Week

For Southern gar-
dens 222

For Northern gar-
dens 222

Answers to Corre-
spondents

Flower garden . . 223

Trees and shrubs . . 223

Greenhouse . , . . 223

Rose garden . . 223

Fruit garden . . . . 223

Miscellaneous.. .. 223

Societies 224

IIiIiUSTRATIONS.

Coprintis comatus 214

The double white Lilac Mme. Lemoine 216

Daffodils naturalised at Clandon Park 217

A view in the Primula Dell at Clandon Park. . . . 218
An effective grouping of hardy Primulas and

Leopard's Bane 219

Narcissus Emerald Eye 220

A bed of seedling Polyanthuses edged with Aubrietia 221

BDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor ivelcomes photograplis, articles and notes,
but he ivill not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
iisks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor ivill not he responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The GARDEN will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 10, Tainslock street, Covent Garden, W.C

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Transplanting Red-hot Pokers.— The best

time for dividing or transplanting Kniphofias or
Red-hot Pokers is this month, when the plants
are getting active both at the roots and leaves.
Should the weather be dry, a good watering must
be given. A good mulching ot rotten manure
should also be given annually at this time of the
year to established plants.

Primroses and Polyanthuses. — We regret that
the article on this subject, which appeared on
page 195 of our issue for April 19, should have
given offence to some of our readers. The sole
reason the wTiter had for referring to the Primrose
League was to pay some slight tribute to the keen
interest taken by the late Lady Dorothy Nevill
in horticulture. In doing so a sentence that has
been taken as political inadvertently appeared.

Prunus triloba After Flowering.— Now that
the blossoms of this beautiful early-flowering shrub
are over, the shoots that have recently flowered
should be pruned back to within i inch or 2 inches
of their base, leaving only two or three eyes. As
in all cases of pruning, the weaker shoots should
be cut back hardest to encourage stronger growth
on them. A young tree would not need cutting
back to the extent that an older plant would until
it had covered its allotted space.

Rapid Growth of Bamboos. — When visiting
the gardens at Trebah, Cornwall, a week or two
ago, the head-gardener, Mr. Thomas, informed
us that last year he measured the rate of growth
of a large stem of Bambusa or Phyllostachys Quilioi.
In fourteen days this stem attained a height of
II feet 10 inches, or an average of slightly more
than ten inches per day. The plant, which is
growing in the open, is a very large one, and
some of the stems measure over five inches in
circumference.

Delayed Flowering of Amaryllis Belladonna.
At a recent meeting of the scientific committee
of the Royal Horticultural Society, Mr. Odell
referred to the failure of Amaryllis Belladonna
to produce flowers in the past autumn, and stated
that the aborted flowers were now being developed.
Mr. Worsley stated that the same thing had
happened in his garden after wet summers, and
it was considered by the committee that the con-
ditions obtaining in such a season as the last
militated against the proper development of the
flowers, though they might begin to form.

Magnolia stellata and Muscari Heavenly
Blue. — The combination of these two plants
results in a very attractive feature, for the ghsten-
ing white flowers of the Magnolia are at their best
during the time when the rich blue Muscari flowers
are expanded. Moreover, there is no objection-
able feature in the combination, for the bulbs do
not rob the shrubs to any appreciable extent,
while the Muscari leaves are not vigorous enough

to interfere with the Magnolia branches. M,
stellata should be planted in moderately thin
groups in a soil composed principally of loam,
but containing a little peat.

A Showy Crab Apple. — Those who do not
already possess Pyrus niedzwetzkyana would do
well to add it to their collections of flowering
trees, for it is distinct from any other kind of
Pyrus, and the colour of the flowers is different
from that of any other flowering tree. In habit
very like that of an ordinary Apple tree, it blossoms
quite as freely as any of the Crabs, the individual
flowers being as large as those of the more showy
kinds of P. Malus. The colour is a curious reddish
purple, and branches, roots and leaves are all
stained with the same shade.

Board of Agriculture and Fruit-Growers. —

It is a good sign to fiiui that fruit-growmg and
other branches of commercial horticulture are at
last receiving some attention from the Board of
Agriculture. Mr. Walter Runciman, President of
the Board, at a gathering of fruit-growers in the
Pershore district last week, stated that he advocated
the formation of a fruit institute, and promised
assistance from the Board, who would put down
£3 for every £1 put down by the County Council
in bricks and mortar, presumably in the shape
of cottages and necessary buildings ; and £2 for
every £1 provided by the County Council for
running expenses.

An Important Fruit Blossom Discovery. —

At the National Fruit and Cider Institute, Long
Ashton, near Bristol, Professor B. T. P. Barker has,
we imderstand, made a most important discovery
relating to the damage of fruit blossom in spring.
It appears that a great deal of the damage usually
attributed to frost is due to a bacillus, which
causes the flowers to blacken and fall ofi. This
bacillus, the name of which is not yet available,
has been isolated in the laboratory and is found to
increase very rapidly. It will be remembered
that Professor Houston, writing in our issue of
March 8, page 121, stated that a good deal of
the damage to Apple blossom usually attributed
to spring frosts was due to the attacks of the Apple-
sucker, or Psylla.

A Hint for Raisers of Seedling Daffodils.—

At the discussion on the cultivation of Daffodils
held on the evening of the opening day of the
Midland Dafiodil Society's Show last week, the
Rev. G. H. Engleheart gave many useful hints
to the raisers of seedlings. The most interesting
of these was that he believed in transplanting
one year old bulbs from the seed-boxes into other
boxes 4 inches deep, giving them good soil, instead
of allowing them to remain in the seedling-boxes
two years, as is usuaDy done. By transplanting
he considered he had saved a year of the time
usually taken by seedling bulbs to reach flowering
size. To get Dafiodil seed to germinate freely
Mr. Engleheart stated it should be sown as soon
as riDe.

214

THE GARDEN.

[May 3, 1913,

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents. )

Arrangements at the London Daflodil Show.—

With reference to your footnote about Mr. Wright's
unfortunate illness on page 205 of last week's
issue, I do not see how his being present at the
Royal Horticultural Society's Hall would have
altered the fact that it was let on the Saturday
before the show and that there were no vases
available and no tables on which competitors
might have arranged their flowers in comfort. —
Joseph Jacob.

Failure of Anemone f uigens. — In reference to the
recent correspondence on this subject, seven years
ago I planted some in a bed facmg south, in a good,
rich, light soil. They bloomed well the first year, the
second year not so well, and by degrees they almost
disappeared. Last year there were several plants
blooming in the steep grass bank below the bed,
which bank is hard and sun-baked in summer.
This year there are more plants in the bank and
more blooms, but the latter are rather small.
There is still one plant in the original bed with
live bl(K)ms. — Penwarne.

Rhododendron Grievei. — This charming little
Rhododendron, which has been almost lost to
cultivation, was shown in the exhibit of Messrs.
Cunningham, Fraser and Co., Comely Bank
Nurseries, at the recent Edinburgh Spring Show.
It was much noticed by those interested in the
dwarfer shrubs, and is extremely beautiful with
its pinkish white flowers. As shown, the plants
were only a few inches high, and were giving good
trusses of large and beautiful flowers. The flowers
are not the sole attraction of the plant, as Mr.
James Grieve, who happened to be at hand when
the writer was examining the Rhododendron,
informed him that the leaves were fragrant, and
an olfactory test showed that the foliage is of a
most agreeable fragrance. Mr. Grieve also gave
the information that he raised this plant while
with the firm of Messrs. Dicksons and Co., the
parentage being dahuricum x ciliatum. It par-
takes largely of R. ciliatum in flower. Mr. Grieve
stated that it had been almost lost to cultivation ;
but it is to be expected that its beauty wUl cause
R. Grievei to be largely propagated and cultivated.
It is quite hardy and an excellent rock garden
■ shrub. — S. Arnott.

Growing Tulips in Grass. — Let me offer my small
contribution to Mr. Jacob's problem of Tulips in
grass page 189. For a long time I also was daunted
by the superstition that they would flower once,
indeed, but never again. At last, however, I
was rash and planted some Golden Crowns in very
poor soil on a steep slope in very coarse grass
that afterwards becomes hay. They have now
been there some six years. In the course of
that time they have so broken up that each
original bulb is now represented by eight or ten
great broad, grey leaves. But each bulb mass
(or nine out of ten) is so strong as to send up yearly
at least one bloom, if not two, which amply justifies
the purpose of their planting. Emboldened by
this, I myself inserted a lot of Gesnerianas into
lifeless soil on a Kentish lawn bank four years
ago, and these also still bloom, though not very
richly, nor have they broken into the masses
of my Golden Crowns. At the same time, one
blossom in grass is worth ten in a border for
decorative effect. The Tulip never looks so superb
and so characteristic as in a wild green setting,
and I cannot but feel that even such partial profit

as I have pointed out is quite sufficient encourage-
ment for a far wider use of the greater Tulips in
grass. Even some ugly Darwins of last year
are now again coming up in bloom through
coarse herbage. — Reginald Farrer.

How to Grow Saxifraga burseriana.— With
reference to the note on the above subject by
" Alpinist," on page igr, April rg issue, it is
not for me to champion Mr. Farrer, but
I do not think " Alpinist " has treated him
quite fairly. " My Rock Garden " was published
much earlier than " The Rock Garden," and
apparently, when the former was written, the
author had not acquired so wide an experience
of the plants growing under natural conditions,
and it is evident that his observation of plants
in their native habitat, in circumstances such
as those mentioned in " Among the Hills "

coprinus comatus, the fungus that
secretes the self-destroving fer-
ment used as a cure in silver-
LEAF DISEASE. (See page 215.)

(page 267), led him to recommend a different treat-
ment. However, I do not think that " Alpinist "
quite realises that, as regards the requirements
of a plant in his own particular garden, he must
buy his own experience. The most a writer can
do for him is to tell him of the plant's requirements
in Nature, and then of his (the writer's) own ex-
periences. I will give " Alpinist " my own experi-
ence for what it is worth. I have S. burseriana
and its many forms growing all over my rock
garden in sun and shade facing east, south-east
and south-west. My rainfall is somewhere about
forty-six inches in the year, and the plants have
to shift for themselves in dry weather (when they
get it). The more sun they get here, the better
they flower ; but in dry summers, like that of
1911, those in very open exposures suffered badly.
I should be interested to learn whether Mr. Clarence
Elliott's plants in a south-west exposure in Herts
were out on rockwork, dependent on the heavens

for their moisture, or were artificially watered
on rockwork or in frames. If one could keep them
moist enough in dry spells, I do not think they
would suffer here, even in due south exposures ;
but for the average rock gardener hand-watering
on a large scale is not possible, and personally I
would not care to risk the burserianas in very
open exposures in a climate drier than my own.
Wherever I grow them they like light, limey soil
and plenty of chips on the surface. — Murray
HoRNiBROOK, Knapton, Abbey Leix, Queen's
County.

I bought a small plant of Saxifraga burseri-
ana major last year and put it into the hottest
and driest comer of my small rock garden. This
year it had over sixty flowers on it, nearly all
being in flower at the same time. I got S. b.
minor also, and put that about six inches from
the other. In December it was looking so bad
that I transplanted it to the shady side of a new
rock garden I have just made. It seemed to get
better from the moment I transplanted it, and has
just finished flowering. It had twelve nice flowers.
The petals of these flowers are deeply serrated.
Of course, last year was so sunless that that may
account for S. b. major doing so well in a south-
west aspect. Perhaps my experience may be of
interest to " Alpinist." — J, C. D.

A good deal has been written about the

above and as to the best aspect to grow it in.
Here in Cheshire I have grown it for many years
on the south side of my rockwork in full sun, but
m the summer of 1911, which was very hot and
dry, the plants were much burnt by the sun, and
in some instances completely killed. Some other
of the Saxifrages suffered in the same way. The
summer of rgii was very unusual, and on the
whole I consider a southern aspect the best for
Saxifraga burseriana, at all events in Cheshire.
In a very hot, dry county, as in some parts of the
South of England, possibly not a fully south aspect
would be best. — George Dixon, Astle.

If " Alpinist," who writes in your issue

of April 19, will plant Saxifraga burseriana in a
soil composed of two-thirds lime rubble or lime chips
and one-third sandy loam, and place the plants
with a southerly or south-westerly exposure,
with a rock behind them under which their roots
will get the evenness of moisture that they like,
he will have no difficulty in growing and 1 looming
this Saxifrage. Of course, I assume that the
rock garden " Alpinist " has is thoroughly drained
to start with. I emphasise the importance of the
rock behind, as of two large clumps th'^i; I had
with the same south-west aspect, the one tnat did
not have a rock behind it showed signs of shiivelling
up, whereas the other retains the bluish green
foliage, which is a sure sign of health. 1 have
grown this and other Kabschia Saxifraecs for
many years, and my plants of biirseriana are
six or seven years old. — S. H., Hertfordshire.

[We are compelled to hold over other mterest-
ing notes on this subject. — Ed.]

Erigeron Asa Gray. — This is almost certainly
a hybrid Erigeron, though it seems difficult to
trace its origin or to say with certainty what its
precise parents were. One would believe, how-
ever, from the colour of the flowers that it has some
of the " blood " of Erigeron aurantiacus in its cells.
It is a very handsome plant, with flowers which some
call apricot yellow and others a kind of biscuit
colour. It is about a foot high and makes an
excellent border plant. It is not the same as
the variety of E. salsuginosus which is callril
" salsuginosus of Asa Gray." — S. A.

May 3, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

215

Azara microphylla at Stranraer.— There is an

exceedingly fine plant of Azara microphylla in
tlie "^deeply-interesting garden of Mr. Carrick-
Biichnnan, Corsewall, Stranraer, a place where
raan>' reputedly tender shrubs thrive apace. The
.Azara is generally hardy in South-West Scotland,
but the specimen at Corsewall is exceptionally
fine on a high wall surrounding the kitchen gardens.
Speaking from recollection only of the plant as
seen last year, I cannot venture to give the approxi-
mate height, but it is one of the finest plants of
Azara which I have seen, save in Ireland. Its
shining green foliage makes a good plant most
attractive. It does not appear to fruit well in
South-West Scotland, and in a considerable number
of gardens it even fails to flower. The non-
flowering is of less consequence, seeing that the
blooms are small. The agreeable aroma they
exhale is, however, welcome in spring. Probably
late frosts have much to do with the non-flowering
in many local gardens. — S. .Arnott.

Primula viscosa Hybrids.— There seem now
a goodly nunibt-r of liybrids of P. viscosa in exist-
ence, and in addition to the two named, Jean
Douglas and Othello, referred to on page 187,
and a few other named varieties, a considerable
number as yet unnamed are in cultivation. It
IS to be hoped that these may be sent to the Royal
Horticultural Society's Gardens to be tested
together and the too-much-alike varieties eliminated
by a competent authority, such as the floral com-
mittee. I have recently seen a considerable
number of these new seedlings in flower, and one
must say that there is too much similarity among
them. Then, again, the use of some of the alpine
.Auriculas as one of the parents has given some of
them too great a resemblance to the -Auricula,
and several of the seedlings which it is intended to
name are little different from a poor alpine .Auricula.
Yet there are some excellent flowers among these
viscosa hybrids, and there is no reason why there
should not be a number of other good viscosa
hybrids produced. — .An Old .\lpinist.
Zonal Pelargonium Maxime Kovalevsky.—

This distinct tnitc-d variety of Zonal Pelargonium,
which IS referred to on page 179, issue AprU 12,
is a good kind for pot culture, either for summer
or winter blooming. Besides this, it is very effective
as a bedding plant, and in this way it formed a
very attractive feature in the gardens at Hampton
Court last summer. Owing to its distinct shade, a
mass of this Pelargonium was at a little distance
somewhat of a puzzle, the tone of colour being
so different from any of the others. It is one of
the many good things that we owe to M. Lemoine
of Nancy, France, as it was distributed from
that establishment in the spring of 1906, and was
given an award of merit by the Royal Horticultural
Society five years later. It is by no means the
only variety that was sent out long before its
merits gained recognition, as the universally-
grown Paul Crampel was first put into commerce
by M. Lemoine in 1892 (one year before Begonia
Gloire de Lorraine), but it was about a decade after
that when it became popular. Much the same
applies to that well-known market variety with
semi-double flowers, F. P. RaspaU, which I first
received from M. Lemoine in 1878, the year of its
distribution. It was long after that before it was
taken up by some of the market-growers, when
it was at once much sought after. Not only were
these three standard varieties all raised by M.
Lemoine, but the Ivy-leaved variety Galilee,
which is perhaps grown more than any other,
.ilsn oame from the same source. — H. P.

PRIZES FOR THE BEST
ROCK GARDENS.

To further stimulate the interest that is being
taken in rock gardens, the Proprietors of The
Garden offer the following prizes for three photo-
graphs of a rock garden, or portions of a rock
garden :

First prize : Five Guineas, or a Silver Cup of
that value.

Second prize : Two Guineas, or Boolis of tliat

value.
Third prize : One Guinea.

The competition is open only to the actual
owner of the rock garden, or to his or her gardener.
The object is to encourage good rock gardening,
and preference will, therefore, be given to those
rock gardens which show originality in design, and
where the plants depicted are well grown. It
should be distinctly understood that awards will
be made to the best rock gardens, and not neces-
sarily to the best photographs. The photographs
need not be taken by the competitor, who must,
however, in such cases have the wTitten consent
of the photographer for their reproduction in The
Garden. The competition is subject to the
following rules :

1. .Vot more than three photographs of each

garden may be sent in by one competitor.

2. Each photograph must have the full name and

address of the competitor plainly \vritten
on the back in ink.

3. Successful competitors shall furnish written

particulars of the rock garden forming the
subject of their photographs.

4. Glazed P.O. P. prints must be sent, and each

should be on a mount with not more than
half an inch margin.

■i. .All photographs must be sent to arrive at
The Garden Offices, 20, Tavistock Street,
Strand, W.C, not later than June i, 1913.

t\ Unsuccessful photographs sent in for com-
petition will be returned if a sufficiently
stamped and addressed envelope or nxapper
is enclosed for the purpose, but no responsi-
bihty will be taken for the loss or damage of
photographs submitted, although every care
will be taken to return them uninjured.

7. The Proprietors of The Garden reserve to

themselves the right to reproduce any
photograph sent in for competition.

8. The decision of the Editor will be final.

SCIENCE IN RELATION
HORTICULTURE.

TO

TREATMENT OF DISEASE
PLANTS.

IN

T

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

May 6. — Scottish Horticultural Association's
Meeting. Forest Gate Chryscmthemum Society's
Meeting.

May 10. — British Gardeners' Association's Meet-
ing at Birmingham.

May 12. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Meeting. British Gardeners'
.Association's .Annual General Meeting at Bir-
mingham.

May 14. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting
and Tulip Show. East Anglian Horticultural
Club's Meeting.

May 20. — Royal Horticultural Society's Spring
Flower Show at the Royal Hospital Gardens,
Chelsea {three days).

May 21. — National TuUp Society's Show at
Chelsea (two days). Devon County Show at
Barnstaple (three days).

WO methods may be employed in the
treatment of disease, one preventive
and the other curative. So far as
general crops are concerned, preven-
tion is the only practical method.
Cures can only be attempted in indi-
vidual cases, and then only when the disease is
local, as, for example, canker in its early stages
in fruit trees. In such cases a simple surgical
operation will remove the danger.

So far as prevention of disease is concerned, the
fundamental rule is to secure a strong, vigorous
and healthy growth of the plant — not an overfed,
overcrowded and forced growth that weakens
the tone of the tissues and renders them a more
easy prey to the attacks of fungal parasites. Other
factors bearing upon disease are drainage and
good tillage, making for healthy root action; the
speedy removal and destruction of all infected
plants or portions of plants found in the
garden, and the use of well-rotted instead of fresh
manure.

It is, further, important to select sound seeds
from healthy parents, and if possible to choose
varieties that possess a relative resistance toward
the particular disease that threatens yoiu: crop. '
Then, in such cases as club-root, where the
infection comes from the soil, the fungus may
be starved out by using the soil for several
years for the growth of crops that are immune to
the disease.

The most successful method of fighting disease
is to prevent infection. In all cases where the
trouble is due to fungi the disease starts with
infection through spores, and the concern of the
grower is to prevent, if possible, the germination
of these spores ; hence the use of fungicides
distributed in the form of a spray.

Coming now to curative treatment, the difficulty
of destroying a fungus growing within the tissues
of a plant is quite obvious. While sprays may
destroy all branches of the fungus or fungus spores
that appear on or reach the siu-face of the plant,
they are harmless with respect to the internal
portions of the parasite.

A method of treatment entirely new to plant patho-
logy, by which the internal parasite is destroyed,
has been recently tried by Miss S. M. Baker, with
encouraging results. It depends upon the use of
a fluid containing a ferment that digests the fungus,
while at the same time it is harmless to the host
plant. This ferment is obtained from a fungus
that must be familiar to all gardeners. It is one
of the common Toadstools, distinguished by the
fact that when the spores (which are black) ripen,
the shaggy cap rapidly melts, forming an inky
fluid that gradually drips away. To science it is
known as Coprinus, a word which is classic for
" dung," in reference to its usual place of growth.
Dr. Buller has shown that this liquefaction of the
cap is really an act of self-digestion, by means of
which the fungus hberates its spores — liberates
them at a calculated rate of a million a minute I
Now, all digestive processes are the work of peculiar
chemical bodies known as ferments or enzymes.
The change of starch into sugar in a germinating
Barley grain, for example, is due to the work of
the ferment diastase, jus! as the pept:c ferment

216

THE GARDEN.

[May 3, 1913.

m the stomach digests albuminous food. So in
the case of Coprinus the fungus secretes an
enzyme that, strangely anough, digests its own
fruit-body, and thus speedily reduces it to an inky
fluid.

This particular fungus, therefore, produces a
peculiar ferment that has the special property
of digesting fungal tissue, and this fact suggested
its application to the treatment of disease induced
by internal fungal parasites. Miss Baker, in the
current number of the Annals of Botany, describes
experiments in which she made use of the expressed
juice of Coprinus in destroying the fungus which
is the cause of silver-leaf disease in Plums, &c.
Readers of The Garden will remember (seepage i6,
issue January 14, 1911) that silver-leaf disease is
due to the .presence of wandering threads or
hyphae of the fungus Stereum
(notremotely allied to
Coprinus), and the idea was
to introduce the ferment-con-
taining sap of the ink-fungus into
the tissues of the tree infected
with the Stereum, reasoning that
if it was brought into contact
with the ramifying threads of
the pest, digestion would take
place, and so the parasite
would be destroyed and the disease
cured.

This particular disease is ex-
ceptionally favourable to test the
efiiciency of inoculation, as the y

effects of the disease become J*.
evident in the branches before K' "«•
the hyphae reach the leaves, and
produce silvering. If the inocula-
tion of an infected branch pre-
vents silvering, then it may be
reasonably concluded that the
introduced fluid has a destructive,
and therefore curative, power.
The method adopted by Miss
Baker was first to inject under
the rind of the branch a con-
centrated watery extract of the
liquefying cap of Coprinus, and,
secondly, to apply externally a
poultice containing the digesting
fluid upon those portions of the
dead wood showing the fruit-
bodies of the parasite. The
experimenter states that " one
Victoria Plum tree which had been
treated with injections for two years
showed no silvering on the leaves of
the upper parts of the branch in
the autumn of 1912 When treat-
ment was commenced, this branch,
the last survivor of the five main branches of the
tree, was badly affected throughout ; it has now
borne fruit in the two successive seasons after a
sterility of three years' standing, and has produced
remarkably vigorous new growths. The lower
parts of the branch near the infected dead wood
still showed slight silvering on the leaves last
autumn." These results are not only interesting
from a biological point of view, but extremely
suggestive to all workers in the field of vegetable
pathology. D. Houston.

Royal College oi Science for Ireland.

[We should be glad to hear from any of our
readers who have had experience with the
fungus referred to by Professor Houston.
-Ed.]

TREES AND SHRUBS.

NOTES ON LILACS.

OF all spring- flowering trees and shrubs
k none is more appreciated than the
I Lilac. Even the ordinary form of
' Syringa vulgaris is lovely, but when
we consider the intensity and
variety in colour, the huge panicles
of blossom of both double and single varieties,
one cannot wonder at the appreciation the newer
forms find with those who are conversant with them.
A few comparisons will show the advance that
has been made during the last fifteen years or so.
The variety Charles X. is a form of S. vulgaris
in which the panicles are thicker and the blooms

THE DOUBLE WHITE LILAC MME. LEMOINE.

richer in the shade of piurple. This was at one
time considered to be a great advance, and was
held in high esteem. Charles X. is now surpassed
by Souvenir de Louis Spath, in which the colour
is again intensified, the panicles larger. For garden
decoration it is difficult to imagine a more beautiful
Lilac. A shapely bush of this variety will in ten
years produce 300 large panicles ; these densely
coloured blossoms are most effective. The flowers
last a long time in a good condition. Take,
agahi, the double-flowered variety, Mme. Lemoine,
with its pure white, huge flowers, thickly set on
panicles almost a foot in length, many panicles
having three spikes each ; and when we consider
how well this Lilac forces in pots, the wonder is
that more plants are not grown.

Few persons will say that 'in an ordinary garden
Lilacs receive the attention "they deserve. Often
they are cramped in between .evergreen .-shrubs,
where they are forced to grow tall^and ungainly,
or they are planted under forest trees which eventu-
ally overhang them. In such a position they
cannot get the necessary amount of light they
require to mature their annual growth. The roots,
too, are unable to obtain the moistiure they require
or the plant food necessary. Abundance of space
in full sunshine is necessary to do them justice,
in order that the growths may become properly
ripened each season. Without maturity of growth
they cannot flower properly. Freedom of growth
should be encouraged ; the stronger the shoots the
finer the blossoms. Weakly shoots can only pro-
duce similar inflorescences.

The choicer varieties are usually
grafted, and too often the suckers
which spring from the various
stocks are allowed to rob the
plants of much of their energy.
All such suckers should be removed
directly they are detected. Lilacs
will grow in almost any soil, but
that of a heavy rather than a light
nature is best, as in such soil the
flowers develop a richer colour tint.
The panicles, too, are stouter, con-
sequent on such soil retaining
moisture longer, as it too fre-
quently happens that a dry spell is
often experienced during the early
part of May, when the panicles are
developing.

Deep trenching should be prac-
tised before planting, and an
abundance of half-decayed farm-
yard manure may be added at
the same time. Established plants
should be given a liberal top-
dressing of bone-meal, superphos-
phate, or fowl-manure early in
April, lightly forking it in for the
benefit of the surface roots. This
should be followed with a mulch
of half-decayed stable manure as
the panicles lengthen. Copious
supplies of liquid manure are dis-
tinctly beneficial.

If extra large panicles are re-
quired, they should be thinned
and the bulk of the shoots grow-
ing around the panicles pinched
at the first joint, which will
concentrate the whole energy of
the branch to the selected panicle.
As to pruning, some discretion is
needed. When first planted, the
previous year's shoots should be pruned to
within an eye or so of the base, with a view to
getting a dwarf specimen of good shape, and also
to induce future vigour of growth. In the future
the cutting of the panicles of bloom will be nearly
all the pruning the bushes require. Weakly shoots
should be removed, allowing more space for the
stronger growths.

Single-Flowered Varieties. — Alba magna is

quite the best of the section, being pure white,
free and especially fragrant. Marie Legraye is
creamy white. Alba grandiflora is freely furnished
with smaller flowers than the preceding. Negro
is attractive with its intense purple blue shade.
Othello is desirable ; the blooms are so placed on
the panicles that they do not overlap each other.

I

May 3, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

217

The deep claret-coloured flowers have a red border.
The deep violet purple of Uncle Tom is distinct.
Dr. Mirabel has tall, erect panicles of claret-coloured
buds, opening into purple lilac flowers. Gloire de
Lorraine has red buds changing to violet. Professor
Stockhart is a lilac shade of blue. Gloire de la
Rochelle is also of a similar tint of colour after the
rosy lilac flowers have become a trifle aged. The
wine red colour of Pasteur is attractive. Duchesse
d'Orleans is quite a new light blue. Mme.
Kreuter is furnished with large spikes of various red
flowers. Toussaiut Louvertre has dark crimson
flowers which change to dark violet. Aline Mar-
queris is reddish purple ; Philemon, dark red ;
Mme. Briot, bright red ; Mme. F. Morel, with
large blossoms on stout panicles, is of a
showy purple colour. Hyacinthiflora is a very
pretty variety with pale blue flowers, pro-
duced in long, rather thin panicles. Congo is
very large in flower and red in colour.
Double - Flowered Varieties. —

There are no fewer than ten white-
flowered sorts, all of which are
worthy of a place in a large collec-
tion. Much the best is Miss Ellen
Willmott. The pure white flowers are
large and the panicles fine. Mme.
Lemoine produces longer panicles, but
the flowers lack the size and purity
of colour of Miss Ellen Willmott.
Mme. de Miller is a dwarf-g-owing
variety. Jeanne d'Arc, Taglioni and
Banquise are new. Mme. Casimir-
Pcrier has thick panicles of rather dull
white flowers. Mme. Abel Chatenay
is a magnificent flower and is later in
developing than any other 'white
variety, and for this reason should be
included, as it prolongs the season
considerably.

Coloured varieties are numerous.
Condercet produces the largest panicles
of any. The flowers are an attractive
shade of blue. President Grevy, with
the cobalt blue, rose-edged flowers, is
attractive. Maurice de Vilmorin is
especially thick in the panicle ; the
rich red colour of the buds is attrac-
tive, and when expandec^they are blue
with a white centre. Dr. Troyanowsky
lias enormous panicles of rosy pink
buds which, when open, are azure
blue. Comte de Kerchove I like
much — it is so free in flowering ;
in colour the buds are a rich red,
and the open flowers are rosy pink. President
Loubet is a fine variety, with carmine buds
and deep purple-red flowers. Comtesse Horace de
Choiseul has creamy white flowers shaded with rose.
Michael Buchner has pale lilac-coloured flowers
with a pink margin to each. La Tour d'Auvergne
is very double, violet purple. E. M.

THE ROSE (GARDEN.

SEASONABLE WORK AMONG THE
ROSES.

ROSE growth should be making rapid
progress by the middle and end
of May, and in not a few instances
there will be flowers upon our
early varieties in warm quarters.
It is this early gTO%vth that often
gets much affected with green fly, which only
wait until a suitable change in the weather
to spread to all parts of the Rose garden. Whether
it be fighting mildew or aphides, we shall do well to
attack them as early as possible. A splendid mixture
against all foes is made by using Jeyes' Cyllin
Soft Soap, at the rate of not quite loz. to a gallon
of water. Dissolve the soap in boiling water.
A couple of pounds may be dissolved in a quart

to fill the centres of the plants, they should be cut
or pinched away before absorbing much nourish-
ment from the plant, and there will generally be
a good deal of this to do during May. The hoe
should also be in evidence now, not only as a
preventive against weeds, but for stirring the surface
of the soil, to which most growers attach great
importance. There will be the removal of suckers
and staking of maiden Roses to attend to, and if
a little of the well-cultivated soil is drawn round the
base of dwarfs, much support, as well as a better
union of Rose and stock, is secured. Consider the
average growth of the variety when staking for sup-
port. The height and strength of the supports
should vary in accordance with the growth, and
a much better appearance is obtained when three
assorted sizes are used with a little judgment.

Plants that have given their main crop of blooms
imder glass need care and attention if they are
to be of future service. To stand these on one

^^'^ ^- ^f^

DAFFODILS NATURALISED AT CLAXDON PARK. [iee page 2l8.)'

A DISTINCT BARBERRY.

(Berberis congestiflora hak^oides.)
There are such a number of Berberises now, the
majority of which flower in the early spring, that
they are apt to become bewildering ; but the subject
of this note is one that is so conspicuous, both in
growth and habit, that it would be difficult to mis-
take it for any of the others. It is an evergreen
of upright growth, with greyish green leaves almost
circular in shape, spiny on the margins. The
flowers are orange yellow in colour, and are borne
in clusters on short, upright stalks. E. B.

vessel, and if it can be kept simmenng for about
twenty minutes it seems better. Of course, one
will be careful to mix the solution to a proper
strength before syringing, bearing in mind that the
ratio should not exceed loz. to the gallon ; a
little weaker strength can be used more freely and
will be more useful. It can be applied cold, but
is rather more effective when used at a temperature
of 70° to 80° Fahr. One can scarcely be too
prompt and persistent in the use of washes, nor
should there be any delay in captiu'ing grubs,
caterpillars and leaf-rollers, which are certain to
be about as soon as warmer weather sets in.
Washes check these foes ; but no method is so
effectual and simple as hand-picking or squeezing
between the finger and thumb.

However well one's Roses may have been pruned,
a little looking over and removal of ill-placed
growths will be beneficial. Where these are in
any way overcrowded, or with an undue tendency

side will not do ; rather, give every care to the
securing of some good wood as a groundwork for
next season's winter forcing. This is all the more
essential with the cUmbing and weeping sections,
for the whole of next year's crop of blooms depends
in a great measure upon good and well-matured
rods. Too often these plants are placed in the
open full early, and so receive an injurious check,
to the great detriment of the future crop.

In the case of worn-out plants, it will generally
be found advantageous to plant these in the open
ground, and grow on younger stuff to replace them.
Once a pot plant has greatly deteriorated, it is far
more difficult to bring it to a satisfactory condi-
tion ; but when most of the soil is removed and the
plant given tresh soil outside, a good autumn display
and healthy growth for further use for the following
year are obtained. It is a cheese-paring pohcy not
to have the very best wood where the extra expense
of heat and attention is given. A P

218

THE GARDEN.

[May 3, 1913.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

GARDENS OF TO-DAY.

SOME GOOD PENTSTEMONS FOR
BEDS AND BORDERS.

DURING recent years considerable atten-
k tion has been given to the smaller-
I flowered forms of Pentstenion, of
" which the best known in gardens is
the Newbury Gem class. Their
greatest recommendation is found
in the profusion with which they flower, but
their extended season and rich, bright-coloured
flowers are potent factors that speedily win
them recognition in all departments of outdoor
gardening where a bright and prolonged display
is desired. They are delightful sub-
jects in almost any position in the
garden, but their great beauty is
most fully disclosed when planted
lavishly and preferably grouped in
quantities of each variety, for once
they come into flower there is never
a dearth of blossom, and the display
continues right up to the period
when autumn frosts prevail. The
set includes Newbury Gem, with
carmine red flowers and spotted
throat, the white form and a pale
pink form. There is also a hybrid
form named Southgate Gem, in
which the flowers partake more of
the character of a florist's variety,
the tube being crimson and the
throat white. In the hybrid form
named Myddelton Gem the flowers
are coloured rose carmine, shading
to rose white, the tube being white,
edged with the same colour. This
section of Pentstemon is sub-
shrubby. On light, well-drained
soils the plants frequently survive
the winter, and in consequence comr
into flower earlier in the season than
is the case with plants obtained
by propagating from cuttings in
autumn and wintered in frames.
The latter, under normal conditions,
come into flower towards the end of
June. A species of small-flowered
Pentstemon not generally given the
recognition in gardens that it
deserves is heterophyllus. In its
flowers it presents a phenomenon
one occasionally notes among blue-
flowered plants, in that it requires
brilliant sunshine to develop the
colour pure. Given favourable con-
ditions then the plant is effective,
and one of the most desirable in the
entire genus. It is a subject I have
found quite hardy on a limestone
soil when given a position where sur-
face water and moisture readily percolate away. It
may, however, be easily propagated from seed, which
comes true and flowers in the season following that
in which it was sown, or it may be propagated by
cuttings in early autumn in the usual way. P. Kel-
lermanii is another species with small flowers, the
colour being an uncommon shade of dark reddish
purple or mahogany colour. Like Newbury Gem, it
flowers profusely from autumn-struck cuttings or
older plants. On well-drained soils it is perennial,
forming a leafy, rounded bush some twenty-four
inclies to thirty inches in height when in flower.
Coomb<^ Court Gariens. Thomas Sinnu.

SPRING FLOWERS AT CLANDON
PARK.

CLANDON PARK, the country home of
the Earl of Onslow, is situated amid
the charming scenery of the Surrey
Hills and at no great distance from
Newland's Corner, a prominence
that commands one of the finest
views in the South of England. A footpath, well
known to those who appreciate rambles in this
dehghtful county, runs through the park, joining
up the old-world villages of Clandon and Merrow.

A VIEW IN THE PRIMULA DELL .\T CLANDON PARK, SURREY

In Daffodil-Time. — It is a pleasant walk at
any season of the year, but more especially so in
Daffodil-time, for on entering at the Clandon
Gate a magnificent sight is revealed. A wide
expanse of well-timbered parkland is aglow with
Daffodils. Over four hundred thousand bulbs
have been planted, among them being Emperor,
Sir Watkin, Barri conspicuus, Horsfieldii, Poet's
Narcissi and most of the older varieties. Oriental
Poppies and English and Spanish Irises are all
naturalised over the same area, and form
a succession of bloom long after the Daffodils
are over,

The Primula Dell.— Following our path from
the Clandon side, we at length reach a rustic bridge,
from which rainbow trout may be seen disporting
in the pool below. A little stream from this pool
flows through a copse that dips down by the side
of our footpath, and it is this little glade that has
been converted into what is aptly called the
Primula Dell. The beautiful undulated woodland
of this Surrey garden, with winding paths and a
deep, retentive soil, provides just the ideal sur-
roundings for a natural Primula garden. Mr.
Blake, the able, all-round gardener — with a special
fondness for Primulas — has displayed excep-
tionally good taste in the grouping of these hardy
flowers in a natural way. In preparing the dell
for Primulas, a deal of under-
, ^ growth had of necessity to be

^^V cleared away, and the soil,

naturally of a heavy nature,
had been dug over and left hi
a rough condition. The spaces
between the large clods of clay
were filled in with leaf-mould,
and it is in these niches that
Primulas have been planted, with
such admirable results. Primula
rosea, the daintiest of all
Primulas, has been treated in
this way, and is now colonised
in large masses by the stream-
side. This year the brilliant show
of bloom has surpassed that of all
previous seasons. P. denticulata
and its improved and immensely
popular form cashmeriana are
the first to flower, and these
are shown in the illustration on
page 219 in association with the
Leopard's Bane, the result of
accidental planting, but, never-
theless, creating a brilliant scene
of woodland flowers. Wind-
flowers are not excluded from
this lovely garden, and Anemone
apennina is the subject in the
foreground of the illustration on
this page, while the slope behind
is clothed with Primula den-
ticulata.

P. japonica, now sending
up its sturdy flowering shoots,
is so much at home that self-
sown seedlings spring up each
year in scattered places. Polyan-
thuses in a variety of hues,
but mainly those with primrose-
coloured flowers, are flowering
profusely in shady slopes under
Ivy-clad trees and on the banks
of a httle stream. It is interest-
ing to note that the hybrid
Primula kewensis has been tried
A year or so ago self-sown seed-
taken from imder the greenhouse
staging and planted in the dell. They
grew for a time, but ultimately succumbed,
and further attempts have not been made to grow
this interesting plant outside. The Polyanthuses
are followed by Primulas frondosa, pulverulcnta,
Veitchii, japonica, sikkimensis, bulleyana and
capitata, all of which flourish amazingly in
this dell and prove beyond doubt that for
beautifying a damp, rather low-lying piece of
open woodland there is nothing to equal the
hardy Primulas,

outdoors,
lings were

May 3, 1913.

THE GARDEN.

219

THE GREENHOUSE.

SOME GOOD FLOWERING CACTI.

THE most striking among these just now
are the two distinct Epiphyllums,
wkich are so widely removed from the
old E. truncatum and its several
varieties. In the first place, their
period of blooming, their self scarlet
colour and, above all, the regular shape of the
blossoms compared with the oblique ones of E.
truncatum are marked points of difference from the
older kind. The tw.-) spring-flowering forms
referred to — E. Gsertnerii and E. makoyanum —
closely resemble each other, so much so, indeed,
that though the difference between the two may be
readily detected when they are compared side by
side, yet the general effect is the same. The
style of growth is reminiscent of E. truncatum, and
like that well-known kind, these scarlet forms will
thrive best when grafted on to the
Pereskia. The different Phyllocacti
have also unfolded their earliest
blossoms, and the gorgeous colours
of some of them make one wonder
that they are not more often grown,
particularly as their cultural require-
ments are so simple. That they
are of little or no value for cut
purposes is, perhaps, the reason that
they are at the present day to ,t
certain extent under a cloud. Com-
plaints of their non-flowering may
often be traced to unsuitable treat-
ment. During the summer the
plants should be fully exposed to
sun, so as to ripen the wood and
ensure the formation of flower-buds.
They should at that season also
be well supplied with water — a
necessary precaution — as there is a
tendency, owing to their succulent
nature, to keep them too dry
during the growing period. In
winter very little water will be
needed.

The vivid and quite undescrib-
able tints of some of these Cacti
constitute their greatest charm. To
many those that appeal the most
are the varieties in which the
interior of the flower is shot with
violet, blue, or purple. When this
is in combination with a bloom principally of
an orange or salmon shade, the effect is almost
unnatural. Some of the rose-coloured forms
are very attractive, as is also the creamy
white Cooperi. The small-flowered Phyllocactus
phyllanthoides German Empress is remarkable
for the profusion in which its rose-coloured
blossoms are borne. Its merits are so great
that it should on no account be passed over
in any selection of Phyllocacti, although it does
not arrest attention by reason of the startling
nature of its blossoms as many of them do. All
the Phyllocacti strike readily from cuttings if they
are not kept too moist. If the plants need repotting,
the time to do this is directly the flowers are over.
A mixture of two-thirds loam, and the remaining
third made up of leaf-mould, broken brick rubble
and sand, will suit them well. When repotted
the plants should be securely staked, other-
wise from their weight they are apt to sway
about, H. P.

DAFFODIL NOTES.

THE LONDON DAFFODIL SHOW,

1913.

IN both quantity and quality the Daffodils
shown this year excel those of I9r2. Then
the season was very exceptionally early,
whereas this year flowers were, in many
parts of the North and the Midlands, no
earlier than usual ; at any rate, at the time
this show was held. The large trade exhibits were
excellent, and, taken all together, they provided
an immense number of varieties from which the
visiting public might pick and choose. Messrs.
James Carter and Co. of Raynes Park and Messrs.
Sutton and Sons of Reading departed, as they
have done before, from the usual plan of staging
a mixed collection of single vases of different kinds.
They grouped bold masses of one sort, and so gave
people an idea of what the flowers would look like

It is a small Barri with an all-red eye or centre,
and with a fairly well-shaped perianth of a very
decided pink shade. As this is the second year
that it has flowered at Black Torrington, Devon-
shire, we may take it to be constant. Mr. A. M.
Wilson had a single bloom of much the same tone,
but not so deep a shade. He tells me that others
are coming along, and that we may expect develop-
ments in this direction. Opinions were much
divided about its beauty among the experts.
I decidedly liked it. The two colours harmonised
so well. The pink shade of the segments,
which gave me the idea that it had " body
colour " mixed with it — to use a painter's simile^
was just the thing to go with the dull red cup ;
but Mr. Frank Galsworthy, the well-known flower
painter, " did not like it at all "and was " horrified "
to see it.

Mr. Engleheart singled out an exceptionally
lovely flat-eyed I-eedsii, St. Olaf, size 3 J inches
by ij inches (illustrated on page 204 last week),

AN EFFECTIVE GROUPING OF HARDY PRIMULAS AND LEOPARD S BANE.

in a garden bed. I must own that this idea is a
new one to me. and that it was suggested by a lady
who is very fond of her garden and is always on
the look - out for " effects." It struck me as
eminently reasonable and an idea that might
be more often carried out than it is. Carter's group
was especially good in this respect, as the blooms
were more nearly on the ground-level. I must,
however, leave details of these, for there is so much
to say about the best and newest individual varieties
that were to be seen in the Royal Horticultural
Society's Hall on April r5 and r6.

I think it will be an agreeable change for readers
to have the views of various people as to what they
considered either the best or the most novel blooms.
In some cases my own opinion coincides with theirs,
in others it does not ; while there are a certain
few that nobody that I asked seem to have noticed.

The greatest departure from the ordinary was
to be seen in Red Wing, which the Rev. T. Bun-
combe staged in one of the competitive classes.

which most deservedly gained an award of merit.
."Imong all the countless varieties which he had
raised, he said, it was one of those which gave
him the greatest pleasure. Three grand vases
of 'this stood out very prominently in the centre
of Messrs. Barr's stand. The large, flat, deep
cream-coloured eye is distinct among Leedsiis
and gave the flower its great charm.

Mr. R. Morton, who won a great manv prizes
in Section III. (for amateurs only), cast his vote
in favour of Messrs. E. H. Krelage and Son's
marvellous exhibit of trumpets in Class 2. Included
among them were Mrs. Ernst Krelage, the famous
white of exquisite texture and faultless shape,
which secured the much-prized distinction of a
first-class certificate ; Hope of Holland, soft yellow,
with a bold, smooth edge to the trumpet, size
4| inches by rj inches by 2| inches, practically
a self ; Seedling No. ir2, a very deep yellow, with
a flat, star-shaped, overlapping perianth and a
well-proportioned trumpet ; Glory of Haarlem,

220

THE GARDEN.

[May 3, 1913.

their relative merits. Lysander gained tlie first
prize. It was just a shade the better florist's
flower. Size, 3f inches by seven-eighths of an inch.
The cup is of deep orange, edged red, and the
perianth pure white, with three flat segments and
three inclined to recurve. Hereward is a deep
yellow Ajax of the highest class. It has a more
refined trumpet and a quite flat perianth which
is very slightly hooded towards the outside of
the perianth. Broad-backed might suggest its
form. Size, 4 inches by if inches by ij inches.
Miami is a cool-looking bloom of much substance
and great smoothness, very pale primrose in

a fine big yellow ; and South Pole, a good pale
bicolor. It certainly was a fine exhibit.

Mr. C. Bourne considered the forty-eight of
Mr. E. M. Crosfield, which secured first prize and
the gold medal in Class 1, as the best collection
ever seen in London, and few will disagree with
his judgment. Of individual varieties he singled
out Maid Marion (P. D. Williams), which is the
acme of grace and refinement among the bicolor
Ajaxes. It is by no means large (3J inches by
if inches by if inches), but its proportions, shape,
texture and soft colouring are all that one could
desire. My comment is, " quite a Bourne flower."
How the old father would have
loved it !

Captain Kitchin, the child of
Brecon, where first of all his
Daffodil love was aroused, liked
King Emperor, a fine flower,
even among Mr. Welchman's
superb yellow trumpets. Its tex-
ture was, as it were, of the finest
silk, and its soft colouring most
pleasing. Size, 4 inches by i|
inches by ij inches. Mr. P. D.
Williams said the bloom that he
would like to live with was his
own beautiful pale seedling Susan.
It is very chic, very sweet, and
so very unassuming that none but
those with the " loving eye," as
Mr. Edward Thring of Upping-
ham used to call it, would ever
have noticed it. Susan has a
small, flat eye of the palest lemon
shading to green, and long, nar-
row, pure white segments. Size,
3 J inches by five-eighths of an
inch. Mr. " Alpine " Farrer saw
it when I took him round some
of the " choiceities " of the
show, and was greatly impressed
with it. He remembered ray
description of it a year ago, and
had often wanted to see it. He
was not disappointed — no mean
praise when one's expectations
are satisfied.

Both Mr. W. A. Milner and Mr.
Herbert Chapman thought Mr. A.
M. Wilson's Harpagon one of the
most striking of all the new
varieties. It is what of old would
have been classed as an Engle-
heartii, with an all deep red eye
and a pale primrose perianth
whose segments slightly incurve.
Size, 4I inches by iJ inches. It
was certainly striking. What
put this idea of a mild sym-
posium of people whom I casually
met into my mind was Mr. Chapman taking , colour. The lemon eye is almost quite flat.

NARCISSUS EMERALD EYE, A BEAUTIFUL NEW VARIETY SHOWN
AT THE MIDLAND DAFFODIL SHOW.

me to see the Daffodil in the hall

The Rev. T. Buncombe had very great difiiculty
in saying which he thought most worthy of special
mention. Ultimately he settled upon Ibex,
Hereward and Miami as his favourites. Ibex
(E. M. Crosfield) is very similar to Lysander (P. D.
Williams), and both may be roughly described as
looser and more star-shaped forms of the celebrated
Challenger. They were exhibited in the singles,
and as I happened to be one of those who judged
them, I was very satisfied to know that oiu' decision
was in accordance with that of the two owners,
who have had much friendly discussion about Size, 3I inches by three-quarters of an inch. He

Size,
3} inches by seven-eighths of an inch.

Mr. T. Batson said Loki (E. M. Crosfield) gave
him great pleasure. It is a sort of flat Frank Miles,
pale yellow in colour. Size, 4 inches by three-
eighths of an inch by seven-eighths of an
inch. It has a similar look about it to Miami,
but with a cup and not an eye, and it is of a
deeper colour.

Mr. Robert Sydenham singled out King Cyrus.
It is one of the large, flat, all-red eyes. The size
of the bloom and the deeper shade of colour round
the outside of the eye make it a striking flower.

also liked Sybil Foster, Mr. Mallender's large white
trumpet, which has an ideal perianth and is a
flower which, if only it had not such a long trumpet,
would be one of the highest-priced ones of the
world. As novelties, " Uncle Robert " decided
upon Anicet and Antony. The former is a pure
white Leedsii with a narrow rim of real pink to
the cup : very dainty, delicate and innocent-
looking. The latter (Antony) is one of the most
distinct giant incomparabUises ; bar the pink-
petalled Red Wing, one of the greatest novelties
in the show. The cup is quite away from anything
else in the way it rounds in towards the bottom.
Magpie's Cup is a little like
it in shape. Size of bloom,
4 J inches by three-quarters of
an inch by iJ inches. Perianth
lemon and very smooth. Cup
deep yellow, with a slight flush
of red.

There is no need to ask Mr.
Walter Ware about his particular
favourites. As a rule, you have
only to go to his stand (which is
invariably a multuni in parvo) and
see the new things he has just
acquired. Here was a giant Leedsii
— in his own expressive language,
a " topper " — long in stem, of
good form and superior qualit\'.
He considers it the equal of
Empire in its own line, and
hence has called it Kingdom.
The short trumpet is a lovely
shade of greenish sulphur, and there
is plenty of green in its back.

Mr. Bennett-Poe took me to
Messrs. Bath and Co.'s Flame
when I asked him what he
thought stood out as something
uncommon. It is a huge super-
Barri after the style of Bril-
liancy, which in turn is a sort
of glorified Barri conspicuus. He
calls it in a letter to me " a
flower of wild form, of great
size and striking colour." " Wild
form " is good. " She looks very
wild " we say of a lady with
dishevelled hair ; so is Flame.
The petals are dishevelled.

My " likes " not previously
mentioned were Aladdin (bicolor
trumpet), Raeburn (Poet), King
Solomon (pale sulphur Ajax),
Bayardo (after Buttercup) and
Anthea (a very refined Leedsii).
I have others too numerous to
mention. I hope they will pardon
my not including them. Even
The Garden cannot hold accounts
Daff," good and kind as it always
Joseph Jacob.

of every lovely
is to them.

NARCISSUS EMERALD EYE.

This beautiful new Dafiodil, which was shown by
Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin at the Midland
Dafiodil Show last week, and a report of which
appears on another page, was considered by experts
to be the new variety in the show. As its name
suggests, the eye of the flat cup is a beautiful and
distinct shade of green, and the lower flower of the
two was of perfect contour. Unfortunately the illus-
tration does not convey a proper idea I'f the quiet
charm and subtle beauty of this now Narcissus.

May 3, 1913-]

THE GAEDEN.

221

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

THE POLYANTHUSES: HOW TO RAISE AND GROW THEM WITH SUCCESS.

A MI

A

MID the wealth and beauty of spring-
flowering plants, none surpasses and
few equal that of the Polyanthuses, or
Bunch Primroses, They are, indeed,
everybody's flower ; perfectly hardy,
free flowering, beautiful and
varied in colour, and of easy cultivation
withal. Moreover — and this, indeed, may be one
of the chief secrets of a popularity which is universal
— they may be raised in their thousands from seeds
at quite a small outlay, hence are available for
creating effects in .\pril and May of which no other
plant is capable. Then, by way of adding to their
value from the utilitarian standpoint, it may be
stated that in large degree they reproduce them-
selves fairly true from seeds, hence
may be planted in bold masses of
colours it so desired. Pureness or
trueness to colour, however, is often
a question of seed selection and isola-
tion of the colour groups. But
whether true to kind or in mixture, the
straiu, assuming it to be one of
repute, will of a surety give satis-
faction, whether by the sire of the indi-
vidual flowers, the giant character of
the trusses, or the profusion of blossom-
ing. In short, so much attention is
being paid by the seed-growing
specialists to these plants to-day that
there is no reason for the presence of
strains of inferior quality in our
gardens ; much less should those of
weedy appearance be tolerated. A
well-cultivated clump of a year old ^
plant, grown tmder favoiu'able con- E^'
ditions of soil, may approach to .i
foot high and as much through, and
be crowded with flower-trusses. Such, sS^f-
indeed, may result where the loam
inclines to clay, and where it is of
good depth and natural richness. In
Ughter soils the plants are invariably
less vigorous, though special cultivation
may, even in these circumstances,
mean much to them.

How to Raise the Plants. — It should
be stated at once that there is no method to equal
that of raising seedlings periodically, though in
certain soils the divided plants give uncommonly
good results. The seedling plant, however, possesses
a freedom and vigour of its own, and for all ordinary
pm'poses and for the amateur who gardens with
hundreds as much as the professional gardener
who may require them in their thousands, seedling-
raising will be found much the better way — better
by reason of results, which are usually of a reliable
nature, and because of a more uniform development
and generous flowering.

Sowing the Seeds. — Seeds may be sown from
January to August, though a more usual period
is from May to August. Early sowing in such a
case is, however, conducive to large plants, and
where the latter are required to give effect in bold
masses, a start should be made in good time. These
earliest sowings should be made in boxes or pans
in a cool greenhouse, while the August sowings
would be best made in a secluded spot in the open,
iir vvdth frame protection. In the case of rather

heavy, loamy soils that are both cool and moist,
it has been found a good plan to sow the seeds on
the surface of a well-prepared bed of soil, giving
little or no soil covering to the seeds. In soils
of lighter texture, a shaded position should be
selected, or shade provided by branches of ever-
greens or in other ways. If quite thinly sown,
the seedlings may remain till early spring before
transplanting them. When sowing the seeds
in boxes or pans, thin sowing is equally desirable,
as is also shading from direct sunlight till the seed-
lings are well in the rough leaf.

Transplanting the Seedlings. — The February

to May sown batches will require to be pushed
along rather briskly, and to avoid overcrowding

tending to great leaf-production. In lighter soils a
free use of cow-manure might be indulged in. Sep-
tember and October are the best months to transfer
them to their permanent quarters. E. J.

REPOTTING ASPIDISTRAS AND
HOUSE PALMS.

There is no better time for doing this important
work than the latter part of April and the early
days of May. Just then the new leaves of -Aspi-
distras are pushing up from the base and the
growth of most Palms is getting active, so that
the new roots which are formed quickly grip the
new soil and the plant receives the minimum
check. Too often, however, amateurs repot these

A BED OF SEEDLING POLYANTHUSES EDGED WITH AUBRIETIA.

or checking their due development, the seedlings
should be transplanted as soon as large enough
to handle. The position selected should be one of
comparative shade and shelter, with uniform
coolness, the last the most desirable of all. These
Bunch Primroses, Uke the common or single kind,
revel in cool places, while only existing by com-
parison in positions more exposed, hence the need
for providing shade where it does not exist naturally.
The seedlings should be transplanted 4 inches to
6 inches apart from plant to plant, and about
nine inches from row to row to admit of weeding,
hoeing and the like. An important item through
all the stages of the plant is a plentiful supply
of moistiure, dryness at the root or overhead being
detestable to the plants. -Apart from the ordinary
waterings overhead, soot-water will be found of
much assistance in dry seasons in keeping red
spider and other insect pests at bay.
General Cultivation and Final Planting.—

Polyanthuses prefer a good, well-bodied moist lo.nm
of moderate richness, excessive manuring in such

plants when such a course is not necessary. Often
a top-dressing of good new potting soil would suffice
and, indeed, be more beneficial. Aspidistras
especiallv do not object to their roots being confined
to a small area, providing suitable food in the
form of liquid maninre or the top-dressing already
referred to is provided.

A suitable soil mixtmre for .Aspidistras and
most of the Palms grown in rooms is composed
of sweet, partially - decayed loam two parts,
thoroughly-decayed manure and coarse sand half
a part each, with a good handful of bone-meal and
a similar quantity of soot to each half a bushel
of the mixture. The plant to be repotted should
be turned out of the old pot, and the drainage
and as much of the old loose soil as conveniently
possible removed, taking care not to unduly injure
the roots in doing so. Place it m the new and
correctly-drained pot ; then carefully ram the new
soil all round it with a blunt potting-stick, so that
when finished the plant will be about half an inch
lower in the soil than it was before. V. V.

222

THE GARDEN.

[May 3, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR

SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Pleasure Grounds.

Care of Paths. — After rainstorms all catch-
pits should be gone over and thoroughly cleared
of sand, or it will soon lead to a general stoppage
of the drainage system.

Rolling.— Paths should be well rolled after
rain, so as to keep a good, hard surface. If this
is not regularly attended to, they soon begin to
crumble up after a few days' drought, particularly
when there is much traffic on them.

Weed-Killer.— This should be applied, if
possible, when the paths are in a moist condition
after rain, though rain immediately after applying
it often nulMes its effects. Such an operation
should not be left to an irresponsible person, as
considerable care is necessary in applying it near
the grass verges, or these will be damaged. Need-
less to say, all cans, water tanks, &c., must be
thoroughly cleansed after using, and the surplus
weed-killer kept under lock and key.

The Flower Garden.

Baskets and Tubs. — Where these are utilised
for the embellishment of the garden, it is a good
plan to get them filled as soon as possible, so that
the plants in them are nicely established when the
time comes to put them out. If a large cool house is
at liberty where the receptacles may be filled and
the plants in them grown for a week or two,
so much the better ; but, failing this, a tem-
porary structure of canvas will do quite well,
the shelter thus provided being just sufficient to
allow the plants to get nicely established without
any check and subsequent loss of foliage.

Calceolarias. — It is a decided advantage to
plant these early, and if the show of bulbs is
over in the beds in which it is proposed to plant
Calceolarias, they should be cleared at once,
working in nice short manure and planting
as soon as possible. Naturalh', one would not
choose an exposed position for this early planting,
unless provision can be made for covering the beds
in the event of late frosts.

Plants Under Glass.

Cannas treated as advised in the calendar for
March 8 should now be sufficiently well rooted
ia 4-inch pots to warrant their being potted into
iheir flowering pots (6-tnch), A good, rich compost
is necessary to ensure good bloom, as also is very
firm potting to keep the foliage and growth
generally dwarf. A great amount of heat is not
necessary at this stage, but a fair amomit of atmo-
spheric moisture is necessary to keep them in really
good condition and free from spider.

Chrysanthemums.— No matter at what stage
Chrysanthemum plants are, providing they

the

are nicely rooted they will be the better for remov-
ing to the open air, though it is wise to select a
sheltered position for them su that they are not
damaged by wind or late frost.

Stopping. — Some few varieties, such as the Jame-
son family, Mrs. Henshaw, Fred Green Fred
Chandler, Miss Rodwell and H. D. Thornton, will
have to be stopped during the early part of this
month if blooms are required for early November.

The Kitchen Garden.

Planting Out Onions.— Plants raised in pots,
boxes, or frames should be planted out at once,
having previously made the soil as fine as possible
Firm planting is essential, and if the weather con-
tinues dry after plantmg, it may be necessary to
give them a watering in, as well as a spraying
overhead each evening till growth recommences.

Leeks. — These also should be planted out in
trenches prepared in much the same way as for
Celery, allowing from a foot to i8 inches between
the plants. On light soil the trenches may be
fairly deep, but on heavv soil this is not an advan-
tage, as a quicker growth is maintained when the
Leeks are planted nearer the surface of the soil.

Runner Beans. — One or two rows of these may
be sown at any time now, selecting a piece of well-
manured and deeply-dug ground. Prizewinner
and Scarlet Emperor I have found to be excep-
tionally good-cropping varieties.

Lettuce, Carrots and French Beans in frames

must be given plentv of air during the hottest
part ' ■ ■

fair quantity of water must be given, and a dressing
of artificial or manure-water should be given as
required.

Fruits Under Glass.

Figs in cold houses are now swelling their frui;,
and every advantage must be taken of th" sui-
heat, shutting up the house or houses early ui the
afternoon after a good syringing ; this, of course,
only on fine days.

Late Strawberries in frames must be well
looked after, giving them all the aur possible durmg
fine weather. It may not be necessary to artificiallv
fertilise the flowers now that there are plenty of
bees at work. Feed liberally as soon as the fruits
are set and thinned, never allowing the plants to
become dry at the root, and a good crop of fruit will
probably come on at a time when it is much
needed, the early outside crop often deceiving
one owing to late frosts.

Melons ripenmg must be given rather more air
than during the growing period, but I am not in
favour of withholding water at the root during the
ripenmg process, the best-flavomed Melons being
those that are liberally supplied with water till
they are nearly ripe.

Hardy Fruits.

Peaches. — Continue the disbudding of Peaches
on walls as the state of the growth warrants, not
forgettmg to keep a sharp look-out for fly, which
is often troublesome in the early part of the season.

Apricots. — This latter remark re fly is also
appUcable to these, and a good svringing on a
warm day will often keep it under.

Strawberries that are coming into bloom will
need protection should the weather prove cold,
and plenty of covermg material must be at hand
to cover the early bed over should it prove neces-
sary. It is not advisable to put this covering
directly on to the plants, but by running a string
or wire down each row it will keep the covermg
material off the plants and so make it very much
more effective. Thomas Stevenson.

(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

>l the day, and to secure a quick growth a I Roses, no disbudding is n

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.
Planting Antirrhinums. —The ground should be

forked over and made smooth before commencing
operations. Antirrhinums tell "most effectively
when planted in masses ; much depends upon the
harmonising of colours. The crimson shades and
yellows should be associated with e.-ich other,
while the various shades of pink and white go
together. Planted a foot apart, they will entirely
cover the ground.

Planting Pentstemons. — Seedlings may now
be planted, and although not so reliable as
AntiiThinums. they are quite useful for a mixed
display. Plant at a foot apart, and be careful
in lifting the seedlings, as they have rather bare,
fleshy roots.

Staking. — Some of the taller herbaceous plants
will now require staking and a first tying. Where
there are large clumps of Delphiniums, Lupines
and such like, three stakes should be given to each
clump, with binder twine run round not too tightly.
Strong-growing subjects should have fauly stout
stakes, while slender subjects, such as the lighter
forms of Aster, should have rather slender stakes.
If a line of binder twine is run round a Phlox, the
combuied strength of the stems generally keeps
them in position. Some things, such as Aster
acris and Anthemis tinctoria or Kelwayi, are
prone to recurve unless closely attended to, 'more
especially if they are near the shade of trees.

The Rose Garden.

Thinning the Buds. — This operation, technically
known as disbudding, is a necessity to those who
desire large blooms, and especiallv to those who
contemplate exhibiting. The operation can be
conveniently performed with a pair of Grape
scissors. All malformed buds, or those which have
been injured by insects, should first be removed.
For general decorative purposes very little dis-
budding is necessary, and in the case of ramblers.
Chinas and what are generally known as garden

quired.

The Shrubbery.

Pruning Forsythias. — .\lthough frequently
grown on a wall, Forsythia suspensa makes an
admirable subject for the shrubbery, whether
trained in bush form or pegged down in a clump.
Owing to the lack of sunshine last summer, it has
not flowered so freely as usual this spring. Now
is the time to prune, and as it flowers on the
previous season's wood, a considerable portion of
that should be cut away.

Pruning Pyrus japonica.— This showy shrub
IS more or less a continuous bloomer, near the
coast, at any rate. The normal flowering period
being now over, this is a good time to prune
and it should not be done too severely. '

Rhododendrons. — Early varieties like arboreum
and nobleanum should have the dead trusses
removed.

Plants Under Glass.

Forced Roses. — Unless these receive careful
treatment, good results cannot be expected next
season. If the weather is mild, they may now be
placed out of doors in some cosy comer till they
harden off slightly before being put out in the open.
Attend closely to watering and give a little stimulant
occasionally.

Richardias. — As these go out of bloom they
should be removed to the greenhouse and the
supply of water gradually reduced. Keep them
clear of aphis.

Chrysanthemums.— If the weather is genial,
these may now be placed out of doors in a sheltered
position. Some growers give them the final shift
before bedding out commences, while others delay
the operation till the beguining of June. Unless
the plants are very forward, I thmk the latter
period is to be preferred.

Azalea indica. — These useful greenhouse shrubs
sliould now be enjoying a little warmth in a vinery
till they make their growth and develop their
flower-buds.

Deutzias should have the bulk of the old wood
cut away, and be placed in a little heat till the
young wood is made. Moderate doses of liquid
manure twice a week will help to promote a vigorous
growth.

Fruits Under Glass.

Mulching Peaches.— In the earliest house the
fruits v\ill now be swelling rapidly. As evapora-
tion is now becoming more rapid, the trees will
be benefited by receiving a good watering, and
after the surface of the border has partly dried,
stir it with a hoe. and then apply a mulching of
well-decayed manure.

Tomatoes. — The latest batch should now be
planted, boxed, or potted, as the case may be.
Good loam with a dash of bone-meal in it is all
that is necessary at this stage. Early crops
swelling their fruits must be regularly fed, more
especially if the roots are confined in pots or boxes.
Thomson's Special Tomato Manure is very reliable.

The Fruit Garden.
Mulching.— If not already attended to, all
newly-planted trees should receive a mulching to
conserve the moisture and to help to maintain
an equable temperature at the roots. Where the
sou is rather light and porous, mulching is much
to be recommended, especially in the case of stone
fruits on a south wall.

The Kitchen Garden.

Thinning Crops. — This is an important opera-
tion, and should receive prompt attention. Spring-
sown Onions should be thinned out to 6 inches or
8 inches apart, intermediate Carrots to 6 inches
and long-rooted to 9 inches, Salsify to 6 inches.
Parsnips to 12 inches. Turnip-rooted Beet to
6 inches and long-rooted to 9 inches. It will be
readily understood that these distances are approxi-
mate ; a good deal depends upon the variety,
soil and liberality of cultivation.

Vegetable Marrows. — it is too early to plant out

yet, but preparations should be made for tliem.
A good plan is to make a slight excavation, about
a yard square, towards the back of a south border,
and on this a good barrow-load of manure is placed.
This in turn should be covered with the soil exca-
vated, thus forming a slight mound. This raises the
temperature at the roots above that of the border.

Salading. — Continue to sow successions of
Lettuces, Radishes, and Mustard and Cress.

Charles Comfort.
Ilniiimlu-hl 'iiirjeiis, Davidsaii's Mains Midio hiti 1.

May 3, 1913.'

THE GARDEN.

223

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— I'/ie Editor intends to
make Tili: Gakdkn lu'lpful to all readers ivho desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening viay be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Ansivers
(0 Correspondents " columns. All comynunications should be
clearly and concisely tvritten on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The fiame and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for natning should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp gra^s or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowerintj
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to setid
small scraps tfiat are not cfiaracteristic of the plant. Letters
on business sliould be sent to the Publisher.

FLOWER GARDEN.

LAWNS (Uenfry).— Yon cannot do better than give
your lawiis a drcssint; of bone-meal at the pre-sent time ;
then in autumn jiive them a pood dressing of rich soil.
Bone-meal may be applied at the rate of about seven to
ten hundredweights to the acre, and an inch of soil may
be applied with advautat^e in autumn. Providing' you
cannot obtain rich soil, apply well-rotted farmyard manure
in autumn.

HYACINTHS AFTER FLOWERING (./. G. D.).~The
Hyacinths sliould be allowed to mature in the position
in which they liave flowered, when they may be lifted
and dried olf in an airy shed or outhou?e. It is doubtful,
however, if they will Hower so well another year, thoutrh
they may civc small spikes of flowers. The single Jonquils
usually flower in May, and they may be early or late,
accordinti to the conditions of the weather. It is Kettin;.'
a little iatc for sowint; annuals. Mid- March would liave
been much more suitable for the majority of such things.
Sow the seeds of the perennials at once, preferably in a
prepared plot of ground in the open in a rather sheltered
place. The resulting seedlings will give you nice, sturdy
plants for transplanting in autumn.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

PRUNING HOLLIES (Judith).— Yomt Holly trees may
be pnined at once if tliey require it, but we do not advise
you to prune very severely, as the trees have been cut
fairly hard during the last two years. It is a great mis-
take to clip Hollies so severely as to give them a formal
appearance. A mulch of well-rotted manure and decayed
leaves will do good, but do not pile the top-dressing round
the trunks ; rather, keep the manure a foot away from the
trunks, and let it extend to the outskirts of the branches.
It is probable that you will not have so many berries
next winter.

BOX SHOOTS FOR INSPECTION (Quizzy).— The Box
shoot? sent for exaniinatiim ii;i\r Iilcu injured by a small
insect called by scientists .Muiiarthropalus buxi. The
insect deposits its eggs below the epidermis of the leaf,
and when the larvae hatch out they feed on the leaf-
tissues and cause the yellowish galls. You can do something
to diminish the attack by spraying the plants during
May and June with a paraffin or nicotine solution. Such
solutions prevent egg-laying to a certain extent by making
the leaves distasteful. They also kill any insects which
have not already escaped from the galls. The Berberis
leaf sent for name is Berberis Aquifolium variety
murrayaiia.

FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR SANDY SLOPE (F. C.).—
In addition to those you name, you might plant the
common Barberry, double-flowered Gorse, Flowering
Currants, Cytisus praecox, Berberis Darwinii and Weigelas
in variety. It is. of course, getting rather late for planting
such an exposed and steep slope, and early autumn would
be much better. If you desire the perennials for the
same position, we fear only the Flag Irises would do you
any service. White and red perennial Peas, if planted
high up the bank, would trail and look very beautiful.
The Marigolds, Wallflowers, or Snapdragons, each of
which would reproduce themselves from seeds, would be
worthy of trial. Neither Lilies nor Gladioli would be
puitabie.

THE GREENHOUSE.

INDIA-RUBBER PLANT {H. M.).— Judging by the
leaves sent, your India-ruliber Plant appears to be, if not
actually dead, at least so far gone that, however treated,
it is not likely to recover. You speak of it having been
for years in a cold greenhouse, and if that implies, as is
generally understood, a structure without any artificial
heat whatever, you are fortunate in havinskept it solong,
for, being a native of the East Indies, it does best in a
fairly warm house. At all events, in order to keep it
in health, a minimum night temperature should not fall
below 45° to 50". There Is no doubt that your plant
has been gradually declining in health for some time.
Worms at the root might be choking the drainage, and
thus, causing a sodden state of the soil, be answerable

for some of the trouble ; but, as stated, we consider
the main reason to be that it has been kept too cold.

SALVIA AZUREA {A. Af.).— Salvia azurea must be
treated in much the same way^as S. splendens. At the
same time, you must bear in mind that it is naturally
of a taller and more slender habit of growth than the
other, and consequently it cannot be formed (into such
bushy specimens as can be obtained in the case of S.
splendens,

PELARGONIUM LEAVES FOR OPINION (F. S. B.).—

We think you are quite right in putting down the trouble
with the Pelargoniums to some wTong application of
water under the conditions existing in the houses. Either
too much or too little water at the time the young leaves
are developing frequently causes a check from which they
do not recover, and every care has to be exercised in seeing
that a proper balance is maintained between the supply
of water at the root and the moisture in the air, the
temperature and the light.

SOIL FOR CARNATIONS (G. B.).— You will find
directions as to the most suitable soil for Tree Carnations
in The G.\rdkn for April 19, page 198. At the same time,
different cultivators employ diiferent mixtures, with
equal success. One who grows these plants remarkably
well advises two parts of good loam of a holding nature,
one part l(;af-mou!d, and one part made up of equal
portions of old mortar rubble and sand. With a sprinkling
of bone-meal tlio whole is well mixed together. A good
book dealing with the subject is " Carnations, Perpetual
Flowering," by Laurence J. Cook, price Is. 9d.

INJURY TO PELARGONIUM CUTTINGS (£. H. H.).—
The Pelargonium cutting is attacked by the fungus
Botrytis cinerea. This is a very common fungus on all
sorts of vegetable matter, and the spores are practically
ubiquitous. It attacks living plants as a rule (1) after
it has been growing for a time on decaying matter in the
soil; (2) wlien they are very sappy or have some un-
liealed wounds upon them ; and (3) at times when they
have been exposed to low temperatures. Some varieties
are naturally more liable to attack than others, e.g., the
white Lily is much more frequently attacked than any
other Lily by this fungus, which is the cause of the Lily
disease. Treatment and preventive measures in the
present case lie in keeping the plants in as well ventilated
a situation as possible, removing and burning all dead
and decaying matter, keeping the atmosphere as dry
as is consistent with the slow, steady growth of the plants,
and occasionally spraying with a solution of loz. of
potassium sulphide in three gallons of water.

ROSE GARDEN.

DISEASE ON SCOTCH BRIAR (R. F. C.).— The fungus
on I 111 l;iiar is tlie Hose rust (spring form), Phragmidium
sulicorticatum. This spreads by means of the spores
on the spring form to the foliage, and produces brown
and, later, black spots on the lower side of the leaves.
The fungus winters on the leaves, and the more com-
pletely they can be destroyed in the autumn the better,
for it is from these diseased leaves that the spring Infection
comes. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture or with a rose
red solution of potassium permanganate will help to keep
the fungus in check. The disease attacks wild Roses,
and so makes it difficult to keep in thorough check in the
garden.

FRUIT GARDEN.

WORMS AND STRAWBERRIES (W, P.).— The worms
you speak about which attack your Strawberry fruits
are not likely to be wireworms, but what they are it is
not possible to say without seeing them.

SILVER-LEAF ON NECTARINE (fl. E. J.).— The
Nectarine is sulfering from silver-leaf disease. Cut out the
atfected branches beyond the point where the wood shows
a brown stain. The disease attacks stone fruits chiefly,
but spreads only from dead shoots. Trees attacked
rarely recover.

APPLE WOOD FOR INSPECTION (A. ./. B.).— The
Apple trees are badly attacked by the woolly aphis, and
probably by the canker fungus as well. It is too late
now to spray them with caustic wash, but that is the
best winter treatment. From now onwards they ought
to be painted with methylated spirit or linseed oil wherever
the wliite woolly matter that protects the aphis makes its
appearance, working the brush well into the wounds and
among the galls the pest makes.

ARTIFICIAL POLLINATION OF APPLES (G. H. N.).—
To carry out the cross-pollination of Apples with any
large area outdoors is very difficult and tedious, as to be
sure of doing it pollen must be transferred by means of
a brush from one tree to another. Pollination, as a rule,
occurs naturally ; but effective cross-polhnation in Apples
means taking pollen from the flowers of another variety
altogether. The only feasible method would appear to
be the removal of branches from one variety to the tree
it is destined to pollinate, and the use of a rabbit's tail
alternately on the flowers of the branch and of the tree.

SILVER-LEAF ON PEACH TREES {Weybridge and
G. !S.). — As you suggest, the Peach is attacked by silver-
leaf. Tbere seems no doubt that this disease is due to
the fungus Stereum purpureum, which makes its way
into the trees, whether they are Peaches, Plums, or
Portugal Laurels, by way of wounds. The fruits of the
fungus are produced only on the dead stems, and it is
from these that the fungus spreads to new trees. Once
attacked, branches rarely recover, and it is best to cut
them out in case the disease spreads backwards, as it does
to some extent. The branches should be removed so
far that no brown stain can be seen in the wood, and the

wounds should be painted over with lead paint, tar, or
a 2J per cent, solution of Lycol.

YOUNG VINES NOT FRUITING {A. 5.).— The young
Vines are olfended with you for cropping them so heavily
the first year after planting, and are having their revenge
l>y refusing to give you any fruit to speak of this year
Indeed, in their way they are laughing at you for your
folly or want of experience in your treatment of them.
Evidently the border is all right, and the treatment you
give the Vines in the way of temperature and atmospheric
moisture is also right. This is evident from the fact
that the Vines have broken into growth freely and
regularly this spring. As a matter of fact, you ought
not to liave taken a single bunch from them last year,
and only about three bunches to a Vine this year if you
had had the chance, six bunches the third year and a full
crop the fourth year. No doubt the "Vines will show
plenty of fruit next year, but you must not let each Vine
carry more than four to six bunches, according to their
size and strength.

MISCELLANEOUS.

CLEANINGS OF FLUES FROM A DISTILLERY

(G. W. 0.). — We presume this would be composed of
burnt ash and soot, and therefore must contain a fair
amount of potash and valuable manures. The autumn
IS tlie best time to apply it, spreading it on the surface
of the soil and digging it in 6 inches or 7 inches deep at
the rate of a peck to the rod or perch.

FROGS AND TOADS {L. fi.).~Frogs and toads are
extremely useful in the garden, and eat many injurious
flies and other insects and slugs. They do no harm
whatever themselves, and in spite of the fact that you
have a stream at the bottom of the garden, you should
have no difficulty at all in keeping the frogs and toads,
as there are damp spots with plenty of nooks for shelter.
Toads especially would be valuable.

RAISING SEEDLINGS UNDER CLOCHES (C. E. 0.).—
Until the seeds arc above the ground it is not necessary
to ventilate the cloches, but rather to shade them during
the warmest part of the day. As soon as the seedlings
are above the ground, air must be admitted on warm days.
This is done by tilting the glasses on one side, raising them
about an inch by placing a stone under them. Remove
the stone about three or four o'clock in the afternoon. It is
not necessary to ventilate on cold, dull days. The cloches
must be taken off while watering the seeds or seedlings.

SMALL HOLDING (G. TT.).— We are not inclined to
regard your sclieme with much approbation, as the pros-
pects favour the losing of your capital ; but if you are a
skilful grower, you would get some return. If you use
all your capital on the house, how are you going to stock
and ^maintain it, and how are you going to live until even
the first crops mature ? It seems to us that your best
course would be to grow general crops out of doors for
one season at least, and probably for two, when you should
have a steady income if you can find a market. How
much have you to pay for the land ? How is it situated
in regard to markets ? What practical knowledge have
you ? Write again, giving full details briefly and clearly
and a fiuther reply will be st^nt.

HORTICULTURAL SCHOLARSHIPS (fi. F. C.).—
Some of the County Councils offer scholarships in horti-
culture in their own institutions or in those in adjacent
counties, and these are either free or assisted. In other
counties, and apparently in your own, no such provision
is made. Agriculture is far better served in this direction.
One or two scholarships are annually offered by the
Worshipful Company of Gardeners on the results of the
General Examination in Horticulture held by the Royal
Horticultural Society. A syllabus and particulars of
this examination can be obtained of the Secretary, Koyal
Horticultural Society's Hall, Vincent Square, West-
minster, S.W. The Royal Horticultural Society also
maintains a school for young men over sixteen at its
gardens at Wisley, Surrey, where thorough instruction
is given in both the principles and operations of horti-
culture ; and other schools are in connection with the
University College, Reading ; Holmes Chapel College of
Agriculture, Clieshtre ; and Uckfield Agricultural College,
Sussex. Excellent short courses are given in the County
Institute of Agriculture, Chelmsford.

LICHEN ON TREES AND SHRUBS {Mrs. C.).—X
humid atmosphere, particularly if it be accompanied by
a stagnant condition of the soil, is very favourable to the
growth of lichen. In some parts of Ireland it prevails
to a considerable extent, and we have at different times
had numerous examples from that country. It is unfortu-
nate that you have delayed the enquiry till growth is
commencing, as in order to destroy the lichen it must be
taken in hand while the shrubs are quite dormant. Various
remedies have been tried, but the one that meets with
the most favour is to spray the affected plants with the
caustic soda wash as used" for fruit trees. It must be
carefully applied and the hands protected with rubber
gloves, as it is of a burning natm^e. Some forms of
Stephanotis flower more freely than others, and if plants
are raised from seeds they will often cover a considerable
space before they bloom. As your plant is in a pot,
you will be able to limit the water supply, and if you have
been giving stimulants, we should advise you to dis-
continue them. Then, if it does not bloom this season,
see that it gets a good amount of sunshine during the
latter part of the summer and in autumn, and then during
the winter keep the soil dry. With this treatment it
will, under the influence of increased heat and moisture,
probably flower next spring or summer,

NAME OF PLANT.— G. EiUick.—Bxyop\\\\\\\m caly-
cinum.

224

THE GARDEN.

[May 3, 1913

SOCIETIES.

THE MIDLAND DAFFODIL SOCIETY'S SHOW.

The fifteenth annual exhibitiou in connection with the
above society was held in the Botanic Gardens, Edgba-ston,
Birmingham, on Tuesday and Wednesday, the 22nd
and 23rd ult. The show was opened by the Lady Mayoress,
who was accompanied by the Lord Mayor. Competition
was exceedingly good, no less than six groups beiuj; staged
in the large class for fifty varieties. A promising sign
also was the number of seedlings shown by amateurs.
The arrangements, as usual, were excellent, and reflected
the greatest credit on the secretary, air. H. Smith, and
the committee. In the evening, Mr. E-obert Sydenham
very kindly entertained the exliibitors, judges and visitors
at dinner at the Grand Hotel, after which the llev. G. H.
Kngleheart opened an interesting discussion on the cultiva-
tion of Daffodils.

Group A.— Cut Blooms (Open).

Class 1 was for a collection of fifty varieties of Dafiodils,
representing as far as possible the different divisions. Six
exhibits were staged m this class, the premier position
being filled by the E,ev. J. Jacob, Whitewell Kectory,
Whitchurch, Salop, with a beautiful collection of fiowers.
A few that we specially admired were : H. C. Bowles,
a giant Leedsii with large frilled cup ; Charlotte, Olympia
alba, a large white trumpet ; Horace, Lady Moore, a
lovely ^flower, with large orange, scarlet-edged cup, and
The Fawn. Second honours fell to Messrs. Cartwright
and Goodwin, Kidderminster, who also staged a fine lot
of flowers, among them being such sorts as Enterprise,
Trojan Boy, a beautiful giant Leedsii ; Ethereal, Lord
Kitchener, and Orangeman. Mr. C. Bomne, Bletchley,
was a good third, having some superb flowers of Queen of
Hearts in the centre of Ids group. Mr, J. Pope, King's
Norton, was fourth.

Class 2 was for a decorative exhibit of cut Narcissi
only, arranged iu a given space. This was the most artistic
class in the show, and made quite an interesting feature.
Mr. C. Bourne was a good first, with a beautifully arranged
exhibit, his vases of Poets being particularly pleasing.
Mr. J. Pope, King's Norton, was second, and the Bev.
J. Jacob third.

In Class 3, for six distinct varieties of trumpet Dalfodils
(yellow), there were five entries, Mr. W. A. Watts, St.
Asaph, being first, with splendid blooms, four of which
were seedlings. The llev. J. Jacob was a good second,
his King Alfred and a fine seedling calling for special
mention. Mr. W. A. Milner, Totley Hall, Shetheld, was
third.

In a similar class for white trumpets there were only
two entries, Mr. W. A. Watts being again placed first.
His Benen and Mme. de Graatt were superb. Mr. J.
Mallender, Ba^vtry, was second, his vases of La Donna
and Sybil Eoster being superb.

Eor six tricolour Dafiodils, distinct, Mr. W. A. Watts
was again first out of four competitors. His vase of Arium,
a superb, long, cream trumpet variety calling for special
mention. The Rev. J. Jacob was second, Olympia alba
being Ids best variety. Third and fourth prizes went
respectively to Mr. J. Mallender and Mi. J. Pope, King's
Norton.

For six varieties of incomparabilis, Division 2a, there
were only two entries, Mr. W. A. Watts being first and
the Kev.'j. Jacob second. Tlie flowers in this class were
rather poor. In a similar class, but Division 2b, the Rev.
J. Jacob and Mr. C. Bourne were equal firsts, both staging
a very fine lot of flowers, Mr. Jacob's Whitewell and Mr.
Bourne's Tritoma calling for special mention. The third
and fourth prizes went respectively to Mr. W. A. Watts
and Mr. J. Pope.

Eor six distinct Barris, Division 3a, there were only
two entries, first and second honours going respectively
to Mr. W. A. Watts and the Rev. J. Jacob, both of whom
staged very clean flowers.

In a similar class, but Division 3b, Mr. C. Bourne was
first out of five competitors, putting up fine vases of Red
Eve and Ethelbcrt. Mr. E. H. Chapman, Rye, was a good
second, his flowers of Captain General, Javelin and Glad
Eye calling for special mention. Third, fourth and fifth
prizes went respectively to the Rev. J. Jacob, Mr. J. Pope
and Mr. W. A. Watts.

For twelve distinct varieties of Leedsiis, three stems of
each, there were four entries, the Rev. J. Jacob being first
with a beautiful lot of fiowers. Endurance, Last Out and
Lord Kitchener were three favourites. Mr. C. Bourne
was a close second, his Little Joan and Silver Spangle
attracting much attention.

In Class 11, for three distinct varieties of triandrus
hybrids, Mr, W. A. Watts was first out of three com-
petitors, staging Dewis, Cibyn and a seedling. Messrs.
Cartwright and Goodwin were a good second with Josette,
Chloe and a seedling. Mr. C. Bourne was third, his vase
of Lemon Belle being very clean and good.

Eor six distinct varieties of Tazetta and Tazetta hybrids
Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin, Kidderminster, were
first with fine examples of Elmira, Klondyke, Jaune k
Merveille, Ideal, Orient and Irene. Third prize went to
the Rev. J. Jacob, who had a fine vase of Orange Blossom.
Eor nine distinct varieties of true Poeticus there were
five entries, Mr. C. Bourne being first with a beautiful
lot of flowers, among whicix we specially noticed Homer,
Laureate and Horace. Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin
followed closely, the third, fourth and- fifth prizes going
respectively to Mr. E. H. Chapman, Mr. W. A. Watts and
the Rev. J- Jacob.

In Class l-i, for twelve distinct varieties of original
spt-xies and natural hybrids, there was only one exhibit,

this coming from Mr. Bruce Waite, 92, Carless Avenue,
Harborne, who had some good fiowers.

Single Blooms. — The fixst prizes for these were awarded
as follow: Yellow trumpet, Mr. W. Welchman, Upwell,
Wisbech, with The Commonwealth ; white trumpet,
Mr. A. M. Wilson, Bridgwater, with White Knight ;
bicolor trumpet, Mr. A. M. Wilson, with a large seedling ;
incomparabilis (Division 2a), Mr. A. 31. Wilson with a
seedling ; incomparabihs (Division 2b), Mr. A. .M. Wilson
with Centurion ; Barri (Division 3a), Mr. A. M. Wilson
with a seedhng ; Barri (Division 3b), Mr. C. Bourne,
Bletchley, with Queen of Hearts ; Leedsii, Mr. Ridley,
Wincanton, with Moonbeam ; triandrus hybrid, Mr. W. A.
Watts with a large seedling ; Jonquilla hybrid, 31r. V. D.
Williams with a seedling ; Tazetta or Tazetta hybrid,
Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin with Jaune & Merveille ;
true Poeticus, Mr. H. G. Hawker. Ivybridge, Devon, with
Dulcimer ; and double, Mr. J. Pope with Golden Rose.

Eor the Bourne Challenge Cup, oitered for a group of
twelve distinct varieties of Dafiodils that have been raised
by the exhibitor, there were two entries, Mr. E. M. Cros-
field, Cossingtou, Bridgwater, being first with a beautiful
lot of flowers. Ibex, Orb and Nomad were three exquisite
Poets, Dell, Winsome and Ringdove being others tliat
attracted much attention. Mr. W. Welchman, Upwell,
Wisbech, was second with a dozen trumpets, Lord Cromer
(rich yellow) and Lord Lister (bicolor) calling for special
mention.

In Class 30, for a group of seedling Daffodils that have
been raised by the exhibitor and are not in commerce,
there were fifteen entries, Mr. A. M. Wilson, Shovell,
Bridgwater, being first, his fiowers including some exquisite
unnamed Poets. Second prize fell to Mr. W. A. Watts,
St. Asapli, Mr. J. Pope and Mr. E. H. Chapman following
in the order named.

In the following class, which was similar, except that
only three varieties were asked for, there were no fewer than
eleven entries, Mr. P. D. Williams being a good first. A
seedling with a rich scarlet eye and apricot perianth, and
Susan, with a green eye, were much admired. Messrs.
Cartwright and Goodwin, Mr. C. H. Cave and the Rev.
T, Buncombe followed in the order named.

In the novice seedling challenge class, for three distinct
varieties of Daffodils raised by the exhibitor and not
iu commerce, Mr. N. Y. Lower, Presteign, was first out of
ten competitors, staging three very good seedliug Poets.
Mr. C. L. Adams, Pendeford Hall, Wolverhampton, was
second ; Mr. W. Wilson, jun., Holmesfield, Shettield,
third ; and Mr. J. Simkins fourth.

For the Cartwright Challenge Cup, offered for a group
of twelve distinct varieties of Dattodils that have not been
in commerce more tlian four years, there were two entries,
Mr. E. M. Crosfield being a good first, his Poets, particularly
Orb, Ring Dove and Dick Turpin, calling for special
mention. Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin were second
with a beautiful lot of blooms.

In a similar class for six varieties, Mr. C. Bourne was
first out of four competitors, his blooms of iVIiss Willmott
and Queen of Hearts being very fine. The Rev. J. Jacob
was second, Lady Moore being his best flower. Mr. H. D.
Phillips, Mulverle, Olton, and Mr. W. A. Watts were
third and fourth respectively.

In a similar class for three varieties, Mr. H. G. Hawker,
Ivybridge, Devon ; the Rev. T. Buncombe, Black Torring-
ton, Devon ; Sir. F. H. Chapman and Mr. J. Pope won
in the order named.

Eor the Herbert Chapman Poeticus Trophy, for a group
of six distinct true Poeticus that have not been in com-
merce more than four years, including at le.tst one variety
not yet in commerce, Mr. E. M. Crosfield was a good first,
his blooms of Sarchedon, Csesar and Millie Price being
particularly good. Mr. A. M. Wilson was second and Mr.
C. Bourne third.

For the Walter Ware Challenge Cup, offered for a group
of eighteen distinct triandrus hybrids, Mr. W. A. Watts
was the only exhibitor, and at the request of Mr. Ware
the cup was awarded to this exhibitor.

Group B.— Cut Blooms (Open to amateurs Only).

In Class 38, for six distinct varieties of Daffodils that
have not been in commerce more tlian four years, there
were three entries, the first prize falling to Mr. N. Y.
Lower for a good lot of flowers. The Rev. T. Buncombe
was second, and Mr. T. Batson fliird.

In Class 39, for a collection of twenty-four distinct
varieties of Daffodils, there were no fewer than eight entries,
the first prize being allocated to Mr. E. H. Wood, Ludlow,
for a very fine lot of blooms, Sunrise and Red Chief calling
for special mention. Mr. N. Y. Lower was a good second,
Lucifer and Red Chief being two of his best. Mr. J. A .
Kenrick, Harborne ; the Rev. T. Buncombe ; and Mr.
R. Bruce Waite, Harborne, followed in the order named.

Eor nine distinct varieties of trumpet Daffodils, tlu-ee
stems of each, there were seven entries, Mr. J. A. Kenrick,
Harborne, being a good first with very clean flowers.
Mr. E. H. Wood, Ludlow, was second

In the type classes for three distinct varieties, the first
prize winners were as follow ; Incomparabilis, Division 2a,
Mr. N. Y. Lower ; incomparabilis, Division 2b, Mr. E. H.
Wood ; Barri, Division 3a, Mr. T. Batson ; Barri,
Division 3b, Mr. T. Bataon ; Leedsii, Mr. N. Y. Lower;
Tazetta and Tazetta hybrid, Mr. J. A. Kenrick ; true
Poeticus, Mr. E. H. Wood ; double, BIrs. Gumbleton,
Tewkesbury.

In Class 49, for twelve distinct varieties of Daffodils,
three stems of each, there were five entries, Mr. A. Taylor,
Olton, being first with some beautiful flowers. Mr. R.
Bruce Waite was a good second.

Group C,
This section was open only to those who have never
won more than three first prizes at any of the society's

exhibitions. The first prize winners were as follow :
For twelve distinct varieties, Mrs. Ridley ; six distinct
varieties of trumpets, Mr. E. Winchester ; six distinct
varieties of incomparabilis, Mr. A. Taylor ; six distinct
Barris, Mrs. Ridley ; three distinct Leedsiis, Mr. W. F.
Mitchell ; three distinct varieties of Tazetta and Tazetta
hybrids, Mr. E. Deakin ; and three distinct varieties o£
true Poeticus, iVIrs. Ridley.

Non-competitive Exhibits.
Robert Sydenham, Limited, Birmingham, staged a
fine and comprehensive group of Narcissi, the whole of
the flowers being clean and well set up. Among a few
that called for special mention were Whitewell, Tinsel,
Bed Chief, Will Scarlett. Ethelbert, Firebrand, Evangeline,
Red Beacon, Bliss Bentinck and King Alfred. The same
firm also showed some Tulips, Lily of the Valley and other
plants grown in fibre. Silver-gilt medal.

Messrs. J. R. Pearson and Sons of Lowdham, Notts,
put up a very effective group of high-class, well-grown
flowers, the staging being of the usual high order. Vtrgil,
Scarlet Eye, Norah Pearson, Florence Pearson (a beautiful
white trumpet), Advance (a deep, red -eyed Poet), Heroine,
Lowdham Beauty (fine giant Leedsii), Gipsy Queen,
Croesus and Homer were a few among many that called
for special mention. Silver-gilt medal.

Mr. Christopher Bourne, Simpson, Bletchley, staged a
small group of beautiful Daffodils, these embracing many
of the latest varieties. Among those that were most
admired were Queen of Hearts, Undine, Red Eye, Horace,
White Lady and Dewdrop. Mr. Bourne also had a collec-
tion of well-grown Tulips, such varieties as Mrs. Moon
Mr. Farncombe Sanders and La Tulip Noire calling for
special mention. Silver medal.

The group of Daffodils staged by Messrs. Cartwright
and Goodwin, Kidderminster, was, as usual, of a high
order, the flowers all being clean and well grown. Par-
ticularly noticeable were Orangeman, Whitewell, Target
(with a vivid orange red cup), Southern Star, Emerald
Eye (a beautiful flower with large flat cup and vivid green
eye), Evangeline, A. D. G. Johnson (with bright red eye)
and Horace. Silver medal.

Baker's, Limited, Wolverhampton, put up a flne rock
garden exhibit in their usual position. The plants shown
were all in good condition, and were well arranged. Among
many good plants that called for special mention were
Dianthus csesius Baker's variety, a fine lot of Ranunculus
amplexicaulis, Saxifrages Red Admiral and bathoniensis,
Arabis aubrietioides, Incarvillea grandiflora, Erinus
hirsutus and E. alpinus albus. Silver-gilt medal.

Messrs. Barr and Sous, King Street, Covent Garden,
had a lovely group of Dattodils, all the latest and best
varieties being staged in an admirable manner. Among
a few of many good things were Anchorite, Rosy Morn
(a very beautiful flower, with scarlet eye and apricot
pink perianth), Gladiator (a very large, flat-cupped variety,
with rich yellow centre and a broad band of orange
scarlet). Moonbeam (white, flat cup, delicate yellow eye),
Sarchedon (a lovely Poet), Red Rover, Snow King and
Socrates. Messrs. Barr also put up a superb lot of unnamed
seedlings. Gold medal.

Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Wisbech, staged a beautiful
lot of Datfodils and also a flne lot of Tulips, the latter
growing in Cocoauut fibre without drainage. Among
the Daffodils we noted such as Marie Hall, Whitewell,
Refulgence, Evangeline, Diogenes, Will Scarlett, Heroine,
Star of the East and Laurettc. The Tulips included
such beautiful varieties as King Harold, Erguste, Isis and
the Rev. H. Ewbank. Silver iuedal.

Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons, Old Rose Gardens
Colchester, staged a beautiful group of Roses, many of
the flowers being equal to those seen at a summer show
Such varieties as Rosr du Barri, Fortune's Yellow, Sun-
beam, Richmond, Claudius and. Antoine Rivoire called
for more than usual praise. SUver-gilt medal.

Mr. S. Mortimer, Rowledge, Famham, Surrey, put
up a fine bank of Carnations and Stocks in pots. The
latter were the variety All the Year Round, the large,
white flowers emitting a delightful fragrance. The
Carnations, which included all the best varieties, were
well up to Mr. Mortimer's high standard of excellence.
SUver-gilt medal.

Messrs. Sutton and Sons of Reading made a beautiful
display with Cinerarias and forced vegetables. The
Cinerarias embraced the large-flowered and stellata
types, manv beautiful art shades being among them.
The vegetables included such kinds as Peas, Beans,
Bliishrooms, Asparagus, Turnips and Cauliflowers, the
whole being splendidly staged. Silver-gilt medal.

Mr. H. N. Ellison, West Bromwich, staged a beautiful
bank of Feras, which provided a cool and welcome change
to the more showy flowers. These embraced such kinds
as Nephrolepis, Adiantums, Polypodiums, Pterises and
Osmundas, the whole being in perfect condition. In
the centre of the group we noticed some excellent plants
of Phoenix Roebelinii, an excellent Palm for the dwefling-
house. Silver medal.

Mr. Vincent Slade, Staplegrove Nursery, Taunton,
put up a good collection of Pelargoniums, the bright
flowers making a fine feature in the sunshine. All the
latest varieties were included, the whole being well grown
and of good constitution. Silver medal.

Mrs. Backhouse, Sutton Court, Herefordshire, had an
interesting little collection of unnamed seedling Narcissi,
among them being a charming little fiower with deep
scarlet eye and pale apricot perianth, and also several
Poets with pale apricot eyes. Silver medal.

Messrs. Reamsbottom and Co., Geashill, King's County,
Ireland, had a flne bank of their world-famed double
St. Brigid Anemones, the large fiowers and brilliant
colours being concrete examples of high-class cultivation.
Silver medal.

■t^ ^fey-

^w^-

GARDEN.

^o^^&

2164.— Vol. LXXVII.

May 10,

191

CONTENTS.

Notes of the Week

Correspondence

Berberis verruculosa. .

Anchusa italica

D ropmore as a pot

plant

Galega Hartlandii

from seeds , .
The fifty best alpines
Furthcommg events . .
ROSE Garden
Some diseases of tlio

Rose

F1.0WKU Garden
Oaffodil notes
Primula coclsburni-
ana : How far is
it perennial ?
The Sweet Pea : An
appreciation
TREES AND Shrubs

The hardy Brooms
Coloured Plate
Three good P e r-
p etu al-floweriiig
Carnations . .

227

228

229
229
229

Greenhouse
Seasonable notes on

Chr>'santhemums 231
Rock and Water Garden
A rare and beautiful

Primrose . . . . 2;J1
Plants for a stream

garden 2;i2

Trained PRUir Trees

atPlowerino Time 233
Gardenino of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 234

For Northern gar-
dens 234

New and Rake

Plants 235

Fruit Garden

Seasonable notes on

fruit 235

Answers to Corre-
spondents
Flower garden . . 235
Trees and shrubs . , 236
Fruit garden . . . . 236
Miscellaneous . . 236

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Tea Rose Lady Plymouth .. .v ,. 226

Rose shoot and leaf attacked by mildew 227

Narcissus Norah Pearson 228

The premier green-edged Auricula Wm. Smith .. 230
Three good Pcrpetual-llowi-ring Carn,^tions. . Coloured plate

Primula Keidii 231

A well-trained Pear tree at Windsor 232

Pear Winter Nelis with a flue show of bloom . . . . 233

The method of training a fruit tree over a wire trellis 233

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

27ie Editor welcomes ■photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he wilt endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, ij payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required /or reproduction be plainlg stated,
it must be distinctly understood that only the arAual photo-
ijrupher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not he responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which lie may not he able to ust, and
the receipt of a proof must not he taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

iOtkes: 20, Tunslock .street, Covent Harden, W.C.

Our Rock Garden Competition. — Full par-
ticulars of our competition f.»r pIiol<_igTaphs of the
best rock garden appeared in our issue for last
week. We would remind all those who intend
entering that June i is the last day for sending
in photographs.

Trials of Spraying Apparatus. — The results

of the trial of spraying apparatus held by the
Royal Horticultural Society at Wisley on the
23rd ult. have now been published. We hope to
give an illustrated report of the trials in our
next issue.

Removal of Seed-Vessels from Bulbs.—

Hvacinths and Daffodils, like most other plants,
greatly benefit by the removal of the seed-pods
as soon as the flowers have faded. If these are
left on, the developing of the seeds takes up a lot
of nutriment that would otherwise go towards
building up the bulb for another year. Do not,
however, make the mistake of removing foliage also.

The Dwarf or Russian Almond. — This is a
prett)' dwarf .\lmond, lornimg a nice bush 2 feet
to 4 feet high, and is a native of .Southern Russia.
The rose-coloured blossoms are freely produced
during April. There is a white variety named
alba and a rich rosy red form named rubra.
Layering forms an easy and ready means of increase.
The dwarf Almond is variously known in gardens
as Primus nana and Amygdalus nana, forming
the subject of a figure in the Botanical Magazine,
t. i6i, under the second name.

The Chelsea Flower Show. — We tmderstand
that the Royal Horticultural Society's Spring
Show, which is this year to be held in the Royal
Hospital Grounds, Chelsea, instead of the Inner
Temple Gardens, promises to be a record one.
Arrangements are already well in hand, and the
crush which has characterised the Temple Show
in recent years is not likely to occur. The show
opens at 12 noon on Tuesday, May 20, and closes
at 6 p.m. on Thursday, May 22. This exhibition
is rightly regarded as Ike flower show of the
year.

The Queen at Kew. — The Queen visited the
Royal Gardens at Kew on Wednesday, the 30th ult.,
making a tour of the outdoor garden from the Main
Gate, through the Rhododendron Dell, to the Blue-
bells in the Queen's Cottage Grounds. There on
either side of the central path the Bluebells are a
sea of blue, which is broken only by the trunks
of the trees under which they grow. Of late years
openings have been made among the Brambles
and other undergrowth, so that wide areas of
flowers are now shown which were previously
hidden.

Caltha palustris semi-plena. — In this plant we

have a bold ycilttw-flowered Marsh Marigold for the
side of the pond or stream or the bog garden,
and many will admire it who do not care for the

several double varieties, and who have the wild
single form in plenty in their districts and so do
not plant it in the garden. This variety has all
the charm of the glossy leaves and brilliant gold
of the wild plant, but the flowers, which are large,
are semi-double. They are thus more lasting
than those of the single form, but are much less
heavy than the doubles, such as C. palustris fl.-pl.,
C. p. fl.-pl. monstrosa, or C, p. fl.-pl. minor. There
is no difficultv in cultivating; it in moist sai].

Does it Pay to Spray Potatoes ? — Potato-
growers have long asked this question. It is well
known that in seasons when blight is destructive,
spraying will check the blight and considerably
increase the yield of tubers ; but many Potato-
growers have doubted that spraying is profitable
on the acreage. According to a report just pub-
lished from the New York -Agricultural Experiment
Station, a long series of experiments demonstrate
beyond doubt that the spraying of Potatoes is
highly profitable in the neighbourhood of that
city. The report goes on to say that spraying
with Bordeau.x mixture should be commenced
when the plants are 6 inches to 8 inches high, and
repeated at intervals of ten to fourteen days
throughout the season.

Cytisus fragrans Growing Outdoors.— .A.lthough

it is usual to associate this Canary Island Broom
with greenhouses and markets, the owners of
gardens situated in Devonshire and Cornwall
plant it in the open groimd as people in less- favoured
localities do the common and Portuguese Brooms,
and it forms a handsome specimen ; in fact,
those who have only known it as a pot plant can
scarcely imagine to what proportions it grows.
Specimens 6 feet to 8 feet high are not uncommon,
and when they bloom, often during February and
March, they are very conspicuous, for every shoot
bears racemes of golden, fragrant blossonrs. In
some gardens, too, the finer variety, elegans, may
also be noted, although it must be considered a
rarity. \t Penjerrick, the garden of Mr. K.
Fox, a very fine example of C. fragrans is to be
seen.

The Spring Rose Show. — it is with considerable
pleasure that we are able to annoimce that the
National Rose Society's first spring show, held
in London on Thursday of last week, and a report
of which appears on another page, was an tm-
qualified success. For several years past we have
advocated the holding of such a show, because
the cultivation of Roses under glass is now very
much more widely adopted by amateurs than
was the case a few years ago. An exhibition
such as that to which we refer has considerable
educational value in bringing before the public
the varieties most suitable for growing imder
glass. We would warn our readers, however,
against purchasing indiscriminately for outdoor
cultivation some of the Roses that were shown.
The majority would do well, but some, such as
Lady Hillingdon, would in most districts prove
intensely disappointing in the outdoor garden.

■226

THE GARDEN.

[May 10, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

[The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Berberis verruculosa.— I regret that, through
a clerical error, miniature plants of this handsome
Barberry were mentioned by me under the name of
B. verniriilosa on page 202, April 26. The mistake
would not have occurred had not the plants been
so small that their identity with B. verruculosa
could not be established, although great care was
taken. B. verruculosa is one of the introductions
nf Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea,
through Mr. E. H. Wilson, and was
offered in the autumn of rgii. It
is hardy in the Coombe Wood Nur-
series of that firm, and grows about
two feet high eventually. The
flowers, which are followed by
purple fruits, are yellow, as men-
tioned before. Miniature plants
such as those described would be
exceedingly pretty even on small
rockeries. — S. Arnott.

Pear Magnate.— I send some
photographs ot an espalier of Pear
Magnate. I think Magnate is a very
fine Pear, in flower as well as in
appearance, but Messrs. Bunyard
have dropped it out of their list.
When I asked Mr. Bunyard why,
he said it was such a shy bearer.
This tree is more crowded with
blossom than any other in the
garden, perhaps more than any I
have ever seen. Unluckily, the
photographs are only by amateurs,
and were taken just a week too late
for the blossom to be at its best ;
but if they are capable of being
printed, they will refute this
calumny against Magnate. The
pyramid is Williams' Duchesse, and
was supplied by Baltet. It very
closely resembles P i t m a s t o n
Duchess, but is not, 1 think, quite
identical. Moreover, Pitmaston
Duchess was not, I believe, raised
by Williams. — G. E. Jeans, Shor-
weil Vicarage, Isle of Wight. [Un-
fortunately, the photographs were
not sharp enough for reproduction.
— Ed.1

Treatment of Disease in
Plants. — I was extremely interested
in Professor Houston's excellent
article on this subject which ap-
peared on page 215 of last week's
issue. The methods of prevention
described by him, if they could be adopted on a
practical scale, would prove an immense boon to
fruit-growers. I hope we shall have more par-
ticulars from others who have investigated the
silver-leaf disease. — G. M.

investigation of Pea Ttirips.— May I, through

your columns, ask for assistance in ;ui investigation
into the Pea thrips ? Notes on the presence or
absence of the pest in all parts of the country are
required, and specimens if possible. If those
willing to help will communicate with me, par-
ticulars will be sent. Correspondents are specially
required in the South-Western Counties and
Ireland. — C. B. Williams, The John Innes Horti-
cultural Institution, Merton, .Surrey.

The Preservation of Primroses. — Is it not

time that something was done to prevent the destruc-
tion of the charming Primrose which goes on so
wantonly at this season in many coimtry districts ?
In a number of locahties where the flower abounded
within the memory of many who are still living
not a plant is now to be found. The uprooting of
flowering plants by itinerant vendors is, I am sure,
one of the main causes of its disappearance. It is
true that in country places far removed from large
towns the Primrose still flourishes in abundance,
but even in these haunts it is in danger. — P. R.

How to Grow Saxifraga burseriana. — In refer-
ence to the note by " Alpinist " in your issue tor

TEA ROSp; LADV PLYMOUTH. A NEW VARIETY SHOWN BY MESSRS.
ALEX. DICKSON AND SONS AT THE SPRING ROSE SHOW LAST
WEEK. COLOUR, DEEP CREAM, SUFFUSED APRICOT.

April 19, this Saxifrage will thrive either in full sun-
shine or partial shade ; but it prefers the sun, and a
south aspect suits it admirably. Excessive dampness
is a great enemy to this plant ; therefore the drainage
must be perfect. It seems quite at home in a
loamy soil with an abundance of grit and some
sandstones. It is also worth growing as a pot
plant in the cool greenhouse, as it there makes a
handsome plant and flowers quite a month
earlier than out of doors. — J. Brown, Balmin-
noch, N.B.

In writing of the requirements of Saxifraga

burseriana on page 202, April 26 issue, Mr. Farrer
says : " Mr. Elliott, whom I took with me for our
first sight of the plant in one of its loci classici.

will bear me out when I say that it there luxuriates
in limy silt in a very deep and sunless gorge."
But in spite of my debt of gratitude to Mr, Farrer
for " taking ine with him," I cannot honestly
bear him out in all that he says. My recollection
is that the plant grew in screes rather than silt,
and that there was a very considerable amount
of sun in the gorge. However, as Mr. Farrer's
impression was of a smiless gorge, and mine of a
sunny one, what conclusion is one to come to ? Shall
we put it down to the effect of our respective disposi-
tions on each other at the moment ? Tome the whole
aspect of the plant seems to indicate that it is a sun-
lover. I have only grown one plant in shade, on the
north side of a low rock, and it has
flowered very poorly. I have several
varieties, including Gloria, planted
out on granite moraine in fullest sun,
without a vestige of shade at any
time of the day, and these all flower
magnificently. The illustration nf
S. burseriana Gloria in Mr. Farrer's
little bookj " The Rock Garden,"
represents a group of the plant
which I exhibited at the R(.yal
Horticultural Society's Bulb Show
in 1912. These plants were grown
in very gritty loam (in pots)
plunged in sand in cold frames,
which were left open and without
shade the whole of the previous
summer and autumn, when they
were making their growth and
preparing for their 1912 crop of
flowers. On one point I feel sure
Mr. Farrer and I cannot fail to
agree, and that is the amount of
sun we had in England in the
summer of 1911. And those plants
of S. b. Gloria received not only
the full direct glare of the sun from
overhead, but probably a good deal
of reflected heat from the back of
the frame as well. Needless to say,
they were watered during all this
sun-baking. My own opinion is
that to get the best results from
S, burseriana and its varieties, one
should grow it in light, gritty
loam in full sun and maintain cool
moisture at the roots. Drainage,
of course, is essential. This cool
moisture at the roots is most easily
secured by mi.xing a large pro-
portion of stone chips in the soil,
and giving a top-dressing of the
same stone on the surface. When
this is done, overhead watering is
required at much less frequent
intervals than when no stone
" The Rock Garden " Mr. Farrer
Gloria as having green flower-stems.
This puzzles me a good deal, for my own plants —
the original stock came from Mr. Farrer — invariably
have reddish stems. Can this be due to the larger
amount of sun that my plants receive ? I should
be greatly interested to know whether all the
S. b. Gloria grown by Mr. Farrer have come from
one original plant collected by himself, or whether
he imported the original stock and subsequently
collected the variety in the Schlern Klamm. The
story of the discovery of this superb variety
from Mr. Farrer himself would, 1 feel sure, be of
interest to more alpuiists than myself. — Clarence
Elliott.

is used. In
describes S, b.

May 10, 1913]

THE GAliDEN.

227

Anchusa italica Dropmore as a Pot Plant.—

I should like to point out what a beautiful subject
this is fur anyone having a moderately large and
light, cool house. We put some plants in pots early
in February, and they started to bloom at the begin-
ning of April. They grow in any kind of soil
and need no forcing. As growth advances and
tht\- make large plants they require a good deal
ol water. We have some single crowns in 6-inch
pots, and they are very nice, but the best are those
with three or four plants in 8-inch and 9-inch pots.
They get no taller than when grown outside, and
with a thin stake to each shoot make beautiful
plants. — E. Smith, The Gardens, Springfield.
A Iderley Edge.

Galega Hartlandii from Seeds.— .Although not
specially fund ul v.irngated-leaved plants, I have
alwavs had a liking for Galega Hartlandii, not
only because of its very beautifully variegated
foliage, which comes such a nice silver and green
in spring and retains most of its variegation for
a long time, but also because it was sent me by the
late Mr. W. Baylor Hartland himself. The posses-
sion of G. Hartlandii and of the handsome trumpet
Daffodil raised by him and given his name always
reminds me, if reminder were needed, of that genial
flower-lover of the Emerald Isle. I am writing
this, however, to point out that G. Hartlandii
produces variegated plants from seeds. Some are
green-leaved, but a large proportion are as finely
variegated as the original. I have some very
pretty self-sown seedlings i^ my garden, all
delightfully variegated. One may add that G.
Hartlandii, unlike many other plants with varie-
gated leaves, flowers freely, and is pleasing with
its lavender blue and white blooms — S. Arnott.
The Fifty Best Alpines. — Being only a beginner
and my small rockery scarcely eleven months
old, 1 feel I have no right to join those who have
been giving lists of the fifty best rock plants ; but
by writing out a list of my favourite fifty it may
interest other beginners. The following are all
looking well and doing their duty on my rockery
in sun or shade : Acantholimon glumaceum,
Androsace camea, A. lanuginosa, Arenaria montana.
Auricula Large Yellow, Asperula hirta. Campanula
garganica, C. erinus, C. portenschlagiana, C. G. F.
Wilson, C. pulla, C. pusilla alba, C. pulloides,
C. turbinata, Dianthus alpinus, D. neglectus.
Cyclamen europECUS, Erigeron mucronatus,
Gentiana acaulis, G. verna, Geranium cinereum,
Haberlea rhodopensis, Hypericum polyphyllum,
Iris cristata, I. pumila cyanea, I. p. Florida,
Lithospermum prostratum. Lychnis Lagascae,
Mimulus alpinus (cardinal red, 4 inches. Bees'
strain), Oenothera eximia, Phlox stellaria, P.
subulata The Bride, P. s. Vivid, Primula clusiana,
P. cortusoides. P. hirsuta, P. involucrata Munroi,
P. villosa, Saxifraga .\izoon lutea, S. A. rosea,
S. Grisebachii, S. longifolia, S. Elizabethae, S.
Storraonth's variety, Sedum dasyphyllum, Semper-
vivum arachnoideum, S. triste bicolor, Soldanella
alpinus. Spiraea crispifolia and Viola gracilis.
Besides these I have had several Crocuses, Fritil-
larias and Roniuleas, all in full flower. — M. W.
SiT.DEN, Wells, Somerset.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

SOME DISEASES OF THE ROSE.

SOME three or four hundred different
species of fungi are recorded in books
as attacking the Roses of different species
scattered over the northern hemisphere ;
but, fortunately, only four of them
need be at all commonly the causes of
really serious trouble and anxiety to the Rose
grower. The diseases they produce are too well
known, at least by name, to every Rose-grower ;
but possibly the symptoms are not quite so well
known, and the Editor, ever alive to the needs
of garden-lovers, has suggested that an article
dealing with them would serve to forewarn and so
to forearm the grower against the attacks of his
insidious foes.

What is Disease ? — Perhaps it is necessary to
point out that the fungus is not the disease, but

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

May 12. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Meeting. British Gardeners'
Association's .Annual General Meeting at Bir-
niingham.

May 14. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting
and Tulip Show. East Anglian Horticultural
Club's Meeting

M^i

ROSE SHOOT AND LEAF ATTACKKl) BY
MILDEW.

its attack sets up a condition of disease by (i)
crippling the foliage and in other ways interfering
with the normal performance of the life-work of
the plant, (2) robbing the plant of food intended
for its own use and needed for its own development,
and (3) forming poisons which destroy or damage
little or much of the host's tissues. It is quite
clear that wrong methods of cultivation, i.e.,
failure to provide the proper environment for
the plant, will also cause disease ; but there is
one great and important difference between
diseases due to the attacks of fungi and those
solely due to imperfections in the inanimate
environment, and it lies in the contagious character
of the former.

Dissemination of Disease. — Canker is as catch-
ing as measles, rust as infectious as whooping-
cough, black spot as contagious as smallpox, and
mildew as catching as a cold. Like these human
diseases, those of the plant may pass over indi-
viduals, and even whole races may be compara-
tively immune. Like them, too, the condition of

the prospective victim and the nature of its environ-
ment, which so much determine his condition,
to a great extent determine whether or not the
plant shall succumb to their attacks.

The Value of Sturdy Plants. — If one wishes
to keep a plant free from disease, one must keep
it in health, which is to say, plants really healthy
rarely (not never) fall victims to the attacks of
fungi. The first principle, then, is to see to it
that our plants are grown so as to be sturdy and
strong ■ open to the light and air and sheltered
from cold draughts, but not in a closed-in space
so that air has no free circulation ; in soil well
drained and sweet, moist, but not so as to encourage
the development of sappy growth ; rich in plant
foods, but not uverrich in nitrogenous matter.

Prevention Better than Cure. — The next

point to remember in dealing with diseases caused
by fungi is that when once damage has been done,
say, to a leaf, actual cure is impossible, i.e., the
particular leaf damaged cannot be repaired, though
the plant may develop new foliage in its place.
So all our efforts must be, when once the attack
has begun, towards prevention of its spread.
Thus we come to the bed-rock fact " Prevention is
better than cure," and may consider what preven-
tive measures to adopt in dealing with these four
diseases, beginning with the most virulent.

Mildew. — The fungus giving the mildewed
appearance grows outside the plant, merely sending
suckers into it to obtain nourishment. Hence its
presence is quite evident and it may be detected
by careful observation at its first onset. It attacks
all the growing parts, causing the leaves to become
curled and incapable of performing their functions.
The curling is often worse than is seen in the illus-
tration. Shoots and buds are also attacked. The
powdery appearam-e of the mildewed leaves is
due to the presence of myriads of spores, each
capable of reproducing the fungus in a fresh centre.
As the fungus is itself on the outside of the plant,
it may be killed by suitable applications, and either
plentiful dusting with flowers of sulphur while
the leaves are damp with dew or spraying with
sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur) at the rate
of loz. to three gallons of water will be the
best means of accomplishing this. If tough-leaved
varieties, like some of the Hybrid Perpetuals, are
to be sprayed, the liver of sulphur may be used
at the rate of loz. to two gallons of water. It is
important to note that mildew is always most
virulent when the Roses have received a check,
as by drought or cold winds or a water-logged
condition of the soil. Shelter from draughts and
good drainage, combined with a dust mulch formed
bv a hoe, will do much towards avoiding attack,
and at the same time, where mildew is prevalent,
choice may be made of those varieties which,
in the particular district, resist the attacks of
mildew best. Probably no varieties are perfectly
immune, but some are less prone to attack or
suffer less from it when it comes than others.

The fungus passes the winter on the shoots in
the form of felted webs of greyish threads, which
are well shown in the illustration. Occasionally,
though rarely in this country, a very resistant
form of fruit is developed ; but in any case it is
from these centres that infection spreads on to
new growth, and pieces of stem affected should be
pruned out and biu-ned during the winter or spring
pruning. The fungus causing the Rose mildew
(which does not attack many other species of plant)
is called, on account of forming this felt-like growth.
Sphairotheca pannosa. F. J. Chittenden.

iTn be cnntinwd).

228

THE gakj:)KN.

[May io, igij.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

DAFFODIL NOTES.

THE MIDLAND SHOW.

AS the Editor was present himself at
/\ Birmingham and a full report of the

/ % show appeared last week, there is no
^•^\ need for me to make many general
» ^ remarks upon the show. Perhaps as

one of the competitors I may be
allowed to congratulate Mr. Herbert Smith, our
secretary, and Mr. Thomas Humphreys, the genial
and obliging Curator of the Edgbaston Gardens,
on the excellent arrangements made for our
comfort. In my opinion the most
striking feature of the show was
the exhibit of Mr. W. Welchman
of Wisbech in the Bourne Cup
Class. He staged a magnificent
set of trumpets, some of a very
high order of excellence, and I
am beginning to look upon him
as one of our greatest manufac-
turers of these most attractive
flowers. His London exhibit a
week previously was fine ; so was
his Birmingham one. The Com-
monwealth, Hereward and Lord
Lister are flowers we would all like
to possess. A second feature was
the pink perianths They are
coming ; there is no doubt of it.
Mr. Buncombe and Mr. Wilson
each had one at London. Mr.
P. D. Williams and Mrs. Back-
house of Hereford each had them
at Birmingham. One of this lady's
was acquired by Messrs. Barr and
Sons, and figured on their stand
as Rosy Morn. It is a small, well-
shaped flower {zi inches by three-
eighths of an inch), with a soft
red eye and a decided warm, flesh-
coloured perianth, shading off at
the ends of the segments to a
pale blush. The colouring is not so
pronounced as in Mr. Buncombe's
Red Wing. I hear, by the way,
that this latter has changed hands
under a guarantee of its coramg
the same next year. As it has
flowered twice, I do not think the
raiser need be afraid of any chame-
leon-like proclivities developing.

The third feature was the rising
tide of seedlings, which every year
now creates a new high-water
mark record. The Midland schedule
provides numerous classes for
these new flowers, but they
are none too many, and at no
very distant date the number may have to be
increased.

Lastly, a word to pat ourselves on the. back on
the way the schedule encourages " beginners." In
Group C, that is, " open only to those who have
never won more than three first prizes at any of
the society's exhibitions," there were splendid
entries and the competition was keen. Mr. Syden-
ham tells a tale of how the winning of a very low-
down prize whetted his appetite in his early days
of Carnation-growing, and so led him on to the
position he afterwards attained. This Group C
is based on the same principle, and I look upon
Dr. Lower of Presteign as one of its best advertise-

ments. I would like to have his fine red-cupped
seedling (shown in Class 32) photographed with
some such inscription as this underneath it ; " See
what encouragement in the early stages of a man's
Daffodil life can do." I most heartily congratulate
him on his first prize tor three seedlings of his
own raising.

On the second morning of the show I had a quiet
look round and picked out some of the best novel-
ties, which I am now going to describe. The
award flowers were described in the report of the
show published last week. Of these I will
only refer to Norah Pearson, an illustration of
which appears below, but which does not do it

NARCISSUS
AT BI

NORAH PEARSON, A BE.^UTIFUL NEW VARIETY SHOWN
RMINGHAM BY MESSRS. J. R. PEARSON AND SONS.

justice. I call it my flower, as I think I may fairly
claim to have discovered it. I do not think Mr.
Duncan Pearson, when he left home to attend the
show, had any more idea of putting it up for an
award and bringing it back with a prize card
round its neck than Pope Pius X. had of staying
in Rome when he took his celebrated return ticket
at Venice in order to attend the Papal conclave.
Mr. Pearson thought a good deal of Lowdham
Beauty perhaps, and also of the yellow-cupped
Elfrida Pearson, but Norah was, comparatively
speaking, only a Cinderella. The blooms that
were more talked about than any others were two
excellent examples of Emerald Eye, illustrated on

page 220 last week, which were on Cartwright and
Goodwin's stand almost before Mr. Engleheart had
unpacked it. It may be described as a big Moon-
beam, but with a much flatter cup, in the centre
of which is a large deep green eye, just the colour
of a young Lily of the Valley leaf, which happened
to be near and with which I compared it. Size,
3i inches by i inch. Ring Dove was a perfectly
round Poet which figured in Mr. Crosfield's Cart- .
wright Cup twelve, and also in his Herbert Chapman
Poeticus Trophy lot. It is a most symmetrical
flower, with deep red rim to its eye. Size, 2| inches
by half an inch. It was a decided contrast to
Sarchedon, which also was in the same collections.
A sport frtini Seagull was included
in my own first-prize fifty in Class i.
It w-as found three years ago in a
batch of my own Seagull which I
had had for a long time, so I think
it is an undoubted sport. In shape
and size it is the counterpart of
Seagull. It differs in the colouring
of the cup, which is a sort of
pinky buff with a thin, yellow
edge. It attracted much attention.
Orb is a fine large red-eyed Barri
after the type of Harold Finn.
Size 3i inches by seven-eighths
of an inch. I know more than one
visitor included it in the best three
flowers in the show. It was staged
by (Mr. Crosfield in his Bourne
Cup twelve. Ibex was another
flower in this collection. It is a
sort of pointed-perianthed Chal-
lenger, with a very distinct rim of
rtd to the cup. Size, 3I inches by
seven-eighths of an inch. Here-
ward and The Commonwealth were
two extremely good deep yellow
trumpets in Mr. W. Welchman's
Bourne Cup twelve. The first
was described last week under
my London notes, and I need only
say here that a second look
confirmed my high opinion of
it as an exceedingly refined bloom.
The Commonwealth was of quite a
different shape and of a much
deeper shade of yellow. It was
distinguished by its rather short
trumpet, which had a bold massive-
looking edge. Size, 4I inches by
I J inches by if inches. Lord Lister,
in the same collection, deserves
notice as a fine specimen of a pale
bicolor Ajax. The three inner
segments have a distinct curl.

In Advance Messrs. Pearson
and Sons have a red-eyed Poet of
great merit and novel colouring,
inasmuch as there are two distinct shades of red
in the very flat eye, the rim of which is of a deep
dull shade and the centre more of an orange tone.
Size, 2 1 inches by three-quarters of an inch. Discus
(H. Backhouse, raiser) was bought by Mr. Bourne,
and was, with the lovely Queen of Hearts, one of
the features of his trade group. I called it a flat-
eyed Leedsii, with a pale apricot and buff eye or
shallow cup. There was much substance in the
round-looking perianth, which was broad and
overlapping.

There were three lovely bunches of Tinsel on Mr.
Robert Sydenham's stand. It has an undulating,
white, overlapping perianth, with a bright yellow

May 10, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

220

(■up edged with orange. It is a charming flower.
A sort of magnified PUhelbert will give readers
an idea of what it is like. Although by no means
a novelty, I must allude to the superb example
of White Knight exhibited by Mr. A. M. Wilson
in the single bloom class for white trumpets. To
me it was the flower of all in the show. Its pure
white, clean-cut perianth and elegant trumpet,
with a slightly recurving rim, always must give
it character as a unique florist's flower ; but when
good cultivation is added thereto, then we " have
food for the gods." Ailsa is grand ; so is Sybil
Foster. Loveliness and Arian (all shown in the
same single bloom class) are good, but " the best
of riW ihe five " was White Knight as shown by
my friend Mr. Wilson. Joseph Jacob.

PRIMULA COCKBl^NIANA : HOW
FAR IS IT PERENNIAL?

Among the many questions I iiave raised in The
Garden respecting the conduct of plants in culti-
vation, one has found that there has been a con-
siderable diversity of experience. The experiences
of many of your correspondents have helped,
however, to solve some of the difficulties one has
encountered, and have doubtless saved others
as well as tlie writer much loss of plants and of
time in experimenting with them. I have been
much interested, for example, in the replies to my
questions regarding Anemone fulgens, and I now
venture to raise tlie question of the perennial or
biennial habit of Primula cockburniana when in
cultivation in this country, and that of the best
place to grow it s'o as to secure its retention without
annual sowing of seeds.

It is not everywhere perennial, and many have
Inst it from time to time after flowering. We
find well-known authorities differing in their dicta
regarding its duration. Mr. Reginald Farrer,
for example, tells us that it is " quite perennial,
like P. capitata, if carefully watched in a well-
drained, cool place and frequently divided."
This is from " The Rock Garden " ; but in his
" .Mpinrs and Bog Plants " Mr. Farrer calls it
" biennial." Of course, that erudite and fasci-
nating writer is drawing upon his more recent
experience in " The Rock Garden," but readers
will require to note carefully the words " if fre-
quently divided," which reservation, by the way,
applies to so many Primulas if they are to be main-
tained in vigour. Mr. Lewis B. Meredith, whose
cultural notes one has so much confidence in
from experience of their general practical nature,
says in " Rock Gardens " that P. cockburniana
is " quite hardy, but, unfortunately, only a
biennial." Other writers have had similarly
conflicting views. Personally, I have been of
opinion that P. cockburniana is practically a bien-
nial with the majority of growers, and I have lost
several plants in experimenting upon what I have
thought likely lines, as well as upon those recom-
mended by writers.

There seems no doubt as to its hardiness, but th?
main question seems to lie in the point of drainage.
Like most of its kind from the same quarter, it
bears the reputation of being a moisture-lover,
and, in consequence, it is often treated to such
conditions as will suit, say, P. rosea, with the result
that it disappears from our ken in winter and never
reappears after flowering. One is always inclined
to attribute this to the exhaustion caused by seed
production ; but it seems quite likely that that is
not the case, at least altogether, although we find
that seedlings generally survive where adult p'ants
fail.

I have been following up the subject, and, from
one or two experiences which have more recently
come under my observation, I am disposed to
suggest that free drainage is the sine qua non
with old plants of P. cockburniana, with the
possible addition of frequent division, although I
do not think the latter is absolutely necessary.

The best plant which has come under my obser-
vation, as having survived for three winters,
after flowering for two summers and also bearing
seeds, has been one in the gardens of Mr. W. A.
Galbraith at Terregles, Dumfries, where the gar-
dener, Mr. William Hutchinson, informs me it
has been for three years and has flowered and
seeded. This spring, after a trying winter, it is
quite strong and vigorous. Mr. Hutchinson has
favoured me with his treatment, and I think it
will be found that the question of drainage is
emphasised by his success. A bed of ashes about
eighteen inches deep forms the base, and on this
were laid about four inches of road grit, above this
being placed about two inches of nice open loam.
This would hardly seem ideal treatment for P.
cockburniana, especially with dn open, rather
sunny position. Yet here the plant has behaved
as I have previously indicated, and self-sown
seedlings have been produced. I have observed
in several other cases of successful retention of
P. cockburniana that the drainage was unusually
perfect, and I can well believe that a somewhat
similar treatment to that adopted at Terregles
may enable many to succeed with this bright
scarlet plant we call Cockburn's Primrose. Per-
sonally, I am again experimenting with several
plants, each being tried on a different method,
and I hope to be able to report progress again.
Yet I think the subject is so well worthy of con-
sideration that I .venture to express the hope that
others will detail their practice in securing that
P. cockburniana siiould remain a perennial in their
gardens.

Dumfries. S. .^rxott

THE SWEET PEA : AN APPRECIA-
TION.

It is not arduous to understand tlic popularity
of this flower, for there is no other annual that
approaches it in floral profusion, in fragrance,
or in exquisite grace. It is very unfortunate,
however, that its odorous charm (which in the
older forms was very pronounced) should, in the
opinion of experts and amateurs alike, be gradually
disappearing before the incessant popular demands
for larger dimensions and crenulated formations,
and the consequent results of excessive and exacting
hybridisation.

It is perhaps somewhat consoling to remember
that some of the available grandiflora varieties,
such, for example, as Queen Alexandra, Dorothy
Eckford and Helen Pierce, are still, for garden
cultivation, among our very fairest and most
effective flowers. Nevertheless, so great is the
inconsistency of human nature, even when most
seemingly conservative, that I am at the present
moment getting my Parma-violet-coloured Eck-
fordian namesake crossed with a Spencer hybrid —
merely for the sake of ir .iking it much larger
and, therefore, more impressive — in far California
by Mr. Lester Morse.

If all other annuals gradually disappeared from
my garden, as many of them have done, and only
the Sweet Pea and Climbing Nasturtium remained,
I would be quite satisfied with my floral possessions
of an aspiring description ; for along the half-shaded
borders, with an environment everj'Avhere of Roses

(of which I have 120 distinct varieties) and Oriental
and Occidental Lilies, the Sweet Pea blossoms
everywhere, and *' nothing can stale its infinite
variety." There is no other flower, with the
exception of the Rose, that so tenderly links the
pensive present with the fadeless past. By the
hybridising genius of the late Mr. Henry Eckford
and his numerous successors in Europe and America
it has developed capabilities undreamed of by our
ancestors, and though it has, as I have indicated,
somewhat deteriorated in the essential attribute
of fragrance, it is unquestionably more command-
ing in its beauty than it ever has been before.
Its colouring has been, especially, intensified in
a marvellous degree.

Every earnest cultivator of the Sweet Pea has,
I presume, his own special favourites, and among
mine are Etta Dyke and Nora Unwin, Dobbie's
Scarlet and Vermilion Brilliant, Earl Spencer. Melba,
introduced by Messrs. Dobbie and Co. and raised
by Mr. Malcolm of Duns ; Rosabelle, usually
regarded by experts as a greatly-improved Margaret
Willis ; May Campbell, which greatly resembles
in colour a favourite Nasturtium ; Marie Corelli,
Elfrida Pearson, Evelyn Hcmus, Paradise Ivory,
Mrs. C. W. Breadmore, John Ingman, Elsie Herbert,
Mrs. Hugh Dickson, Thomas Stevenson, Clematis,
Gustave Hamel, Nubian, Mrs. Routzahn Spencer,
Dorothy Eckford, Florence Nightinga'e, Helen
Pierce and Asta Ohn.

Lord Rosebery has asserted that to him the
Sweet Pea is more fascinating than the Orchid.
Its beauty and fragrance can at least be more
intensely appreciated under widely different atmo-
spheric conditions. David R. Williamson.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

THE HARDY BROOMS.

A I.TH()r(rH the name of Broom is more
f\ ( losely associated with Cytisus sco-

/ % parius, the common Broom of our
/ % commons and hillsides, than with
* *■ other species, it has been pretty

generally adopted for all the kinds of
Cytisus and Genista, and the Brooms are looked
upon as a very important group of late spring
and early summer flowering shrubs. That they
are popular is not to be wondered at, when it is
considered that they are easily raised, quickly
attain flowering size, flower freely every year
and give comparatively little trouble.

Propagation. — This may be effected in any one
of three ways. Those kinds which come true from
seeds — and this may be said to refer to all the
species — are best raised from seeds. But there are
certain hybrids and varieties which have to be
raised in other ways, and in such cases cuttings or
grafts are used. As a rule, cuttings 3 inches to
4 inches long are made from young shoots, with
a shght heel of old wood, during July or August,
and are inserted in sandy soil in a close but cold
frame, artificial heat being detrimental. After
being firmly inserted they are well watered and
kept close and shaded from sun for several months,
giving water when necessary. Growth commences
with the lengthening days in spring, when air is
admitted, the rooted cuttings being removed in
.\pril. When grafting is resorted to, the work is
usually performed indoors in spring. As a rule,
the common Laburnum is selected as the stock,
and either young plants or sections of root are
used. The scions may be made of either one year
or two year old wood, but in either case it must

230

THE GAKDEN.

[May 10, 1913.

be woody, that which is of a pithy character
being unsatisfactory. The side graft will answer
in many cases, but it is often necessary to use a
wedge graft on account of the difference in size
between stock and scion. When grafted, the
plants are placed in a warm and close frame until
the union is effected, when they are gradually
hardened off and removed to the open air. Kinds
like andreanus and praecox are increased by
cuttings or grafts.

Pruning. — During the first two or three years
it is necessary to keep the plants well pruned,
otherwise they will grow rapidly in height and
become bare at the bottom. By repeatedly
cutting the young shoots back, a good foundation
is laid, and pruning in later life is reduced to a
little shortening of the growths after
flowering. Brooms as a whole object
to being pruned into old wood, and
a plant which is cut back into wood
which is three or four years old never
breaks freely. The purple-flowered
Broom, Cytisus purpureus, differs
from other kinds by requiring to
have the old shoots cut clean away
each year, lor it renews itself
annually by young growths, which
spring from the rootstock. Another
kind, Cytisus nigricans, and a
Genista, G. elatior. also require
different treatment, for they flower
during late summer from the current
year's wood ; therefore they must
be pruned during winter or early
spring.

Planting. — A few words are
necessary regarding planting, for
although the Brooms thrive in
almost any soil of a loamy character,
from sand and gravel to fairly stiff
clay, they must be placed in perma-
nent places while quite small, for it
is almost impossible to transplant
well-grown examples with any
degree of success. As a rule, the root
system is ridiculously small in com-
parison to the branch system ;
therefore large plants fail to obtain
their proper supply of food when
the roots arc disturbed.

The Best Kinds. — Cytisus scopa-
rius, the common Broom, naturally
suggests itself as one of the most
useful, for it grows in the poorest
soil and creates a glorious effect
when covered with its golden flowers,
whether growing on poor ballast on
railway banks, in stony groimd on
moors and commons, on mountain-
sides, or in gardens. Its variety
andreanus, wliich is recognised by the two brown
petals borne by each flower, is a great favourite ;
while the Moonlight Broom, a variety with cream-
coloured flowers, is also very attractive. The
white-flowered Portuguese Broom is also a popular
plant, its small white flowers appearing with the
greatest freedom during May. C. DaUimorei is
a hybrid between the last named and C. andreanus.
Growing as tall as either, it is intermediate in
character between the two, but it has showy
purplisli l)lossoms and is quite distinct from any
other Broom, .\nother hybrid is noticed in the
early-flowering C. prajcox, which grows 5 feet to
6 feet liigh and flowers magnificently. Its only
drawback is that its cream-coloured flowers have

a disagreeable odour. C. purgans is a dwarfer
plant than those previously mentioned. Growing
about three feet high, it is of upright habit and
produces golden flowers. The Eastern European
C. biflorus is one of the earliest kinds to flower,
and is often opening its blossoms in April. It
grows from 2 feet to 3 feet high, and usually bears
its flowers in pairs from axillary buds. C. capitatus
differs from other kinds by producing its yellow
flowers in rather dense heads from the points of
the branches. C. purpureus is a charming kind
which is very different in appearance from the other
Brooms. Of dwarf habit, it scarcely attains a
height of li feet, forming slender, arching branches
which bear a profusion of pretty, purplish flowers.
A close relation of the last named is found in the

COLOURED PLATE.

PIiATB 1471

1

D

THE

PREMl
MR.

GREEN-EDGED AURICULA, WM. SMITH, SHOWN
DOUGLAS AT THE LONDON SHOW LAST WEEK.

hybrid C. versicolor, which also has purplish
flowers. C. Ardoini introduces quite another
group, for it is a very dwarf grower, suitable for
the rockery. Its flowers are golden. Several
natural hybrids have been obtained from it, two
of the best being the golden-flowered Beanii, and
kewensis, which has cream-coloured flowers.
Other dwarf Brooms of considerable beauty are
C. decumbens, C. leucanthus. Genista pilosa,
G. sagittalis and G. dalmatica. The Spanish
Gorse, Genista hispanica, is another excellent
plant. Growing about two feet high, it forms
excellent cushion-like plants, which towards the
end of May are globes of gold. G. cinerea, G.
virgata and G. .■Ethnensis are tall-growing kinds. D.

THREE GOOD PERPETUAL FLOWER-
ING CARNATIONS.

URING the last decade the Perpetual
or winter flowering Carnations have
undergone a truly wonderful change,
and one that has made for all-round
improvement. At the time when
these Carnations first began to
attract general attention in this country, there were
not a large number of varieties, and these were
mostly of American origin. Weak, attenuated
stems and thin, colourless flowers, with none too
robust constitution, characterised the Perpetual-
flowering Carnations of those days ;
but, thanks to the efforts of
raisers in this and other countries,
all these defects have been
remedied. A few years ago, when
Britannia was attracting a good
deal of attention, we must confess
that we feared that precious
attribute, fragrance, was in danger
of being " improved " out of
existence, if we may use such a
phrase ; but after a few rather more
than gentle warnings, raisers saw the
folly of their ways, and have, during
the last three or four years, given
fragrance its rightful place.

The three varieties shown in
the accompanying coloured plate
were raised by Messrs. Allwood
Brothers at their Wivelsfield nur-
series, Hayward's Heath, to whom
wp are indebted for the flowers from
which the coloured plate was
prepared. All three are excellent
varieties, but perhaps Mary Allwood
is the doyen of the trio. It has
gained 92 points out of a possible
100 from the floral committee of
the Perpetual Flowering Carna-
tion Society, the highest number
yet awarded from that source to
any variety. It is good in shape,
fragrant and particularly free-
flowering. Need we say more ?
Wivelsfield Wonder, the striped
flower, will probably not appeal to
everyone, but we must confess
to a partiality for it. The flowers
are well poised on long, stout
stems, and are really first-class for
decorative purposes. But its
delicious fragrance appeals to us
more than that of any other variety
we know. We must have Wivelsfield
Wonder, if only for its scent, It is a seedling from the
famous old variety Mrs. Bradt , which was, we believe,
one of the parents of Enchantress, and which has
played an important part in the genealogy of most
of our best Perpetual-flowering Carnations.

Wivelsfield White is a white seedling variety that is
as yet in its infancy. We have seen and admired it
on a number of occasions, and we believe that those
salesmen in Covent Garden Market wlio have seen it
think very highly of this variety for decorative pur-
poses. It is a pure, glistening white ; the flowers are
very full, deliciously fragrant and. we believe, more
productive than any other white variety. If it lives
up to its present reputation, this Carnation should
have a particularly brilliant future in store.

Supplement to THE GARDEN, May lol/i, 1913.

//

THREE GOOD PERPETUAL
FLOWERING CARNATIONS—

Wivelsfield White.

Striped : Wivelsfield Wonder.

Red : Mary All wood.

W

,,^t^-

Hudson & Keartis, Ltd.. Printers. London. SE.

May 10, 1913.;

THE GARDEN.

231

THE GREENHOUSE.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON CHRY-
SANTHEMUMS.

THE Chrysanthemum grower and en-
thusiast has much to do during the
month of May, as the plants, no matter
in what stage they are in, should be
growing freely, and the best advice I
can give just now is to allow the plants
all the Ught and air possible if still in the frame,
with perhaps this exception — the late-rooted plants
that are intended for growing in small pots. These
probably have hardly got over their first potting,
and must be very carefully coaxed along for a
little while ; and though they may have the benefit
of the lights. over them during the day to prevent
them flagging too much, their removal in the after-
noon and evening will do much to help the plants
to attain that hardiness that is necessary for them
to stand (without flagging) the
hill sunlight. Early in the month,
riTtainly during the second week,
all established plants, whether fur
large flowers or decorative pur-
poses, should be removed to the
open air, giving each sufficient
space to develop its leaves pro-
perly. A somewhat sheltered,
though open position is the best
for the plants, and some pro-
vision should be made to spread
tiffany over them in the event
of late frosts occurring. It may
alsn be advisable, in the e\'ent
cif strong winds, to run a length
uf tiffany on the windward side
of them, for it must be borne
in mind that the foliage for the
first few days after their removal
from the frame is very brittle,
and strong winds, if not broken
somewhat, do a great deal of
damage.

Staking is also necessary, and
I make a practice of putting a
::-feet or 3-feet stake to ?ach
plant (according to the varieties)
as they are stood out ; this carries
them nicely till they are potted
and placed in their position for the
summer.

Green Fly at this season is
sometimes troublesome, but a
weekly run through the plants with
the Tobacco duster will keep this pest in check.
I am apt to think this is preferable to, and quite
as effective as, spraying the plants with an insecti-
cide, as the slightest overdose will bum the young
growing points, and any injury to the foliage now,
either by fly or insecticide, will spoU the look of
the plants for the whole season.

Stopping. — There are a few of the exhibition
varieties that, if left to break naturally, would
produce their blooms somewhat late. Such varie-
ties should be stopped at once, and these include
the whole of the Jameson family, Fred Green,
Fred Chandler, Miss Boycs, Bob Pulling, Mrs.
H. J. Jones, Mrs. W. T. Smith, Mrs. R. C. Pullmg,
.Miss May Fox, J. Surry, Mrs. A. K. I'sher, Joan
Stratton, Miss Rodwell, C. J. Bieii, W. H. Head,
Mrs. Henshaw and Mrs. H. D. Thornton. Towards
the end of the month the following varieties, if
they have not alreadv made a natural break,

should have their points pinched out : Hon. Mrs.
Lopes, Captain Mitford, Colonel Converse, Queen
Mary, Mrs. Gilbert Drabble. Frances Rowe, Miss A. E.
Roope, Lady Frances Ryder. Frank Payne, Master
Rex, M. Paolo Radaelli and Mme. G. Rivol.

Potting. — About the third week in the month
some of the earliest-rooted exhibition varieties
should be in a forward enough condition to warrant
them being given their final shift. Needless to say,
a well-prepared compost should be employed, not
necessarily rich in manure, but of a good holding
nature that the plants will make plenty of roots
in. Firm potting is essential, and well-drained
pots ensure them going through the season without
becoming water-logged. Plenty of space should
be left at the top of the pots to allow of two or
three surface-dressings later in the season. After
potting, the plants make root more quickly if stood
closely together for a time, and if the weather is
warm and dry, frequent syringings overhead will
help them to get over the shift quickly. Watering

that can be obtained if they are well looked after.
Plant firmly and ^take at once, making the soil
quite fine round the plants, so that there is no
harbour for slugs. If the weather is ver\' dry, give
one good watering, after which in a normal season
very little water will be required till bloom- buds
appear, when they may be assisted with a little
natural or artificial manure.

Surrey. Thomas Stevenson.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

A RARE AND BEAUTIFUL PRIMROSE.

(Primula Reidii.1

a LTHOUGH this Himalayan Primula has

/% been known for a considerable number

/ % of years, it is still an uncommon

^""^k plant in our gardens. This is perhaps

due in some measure to its requirements

under cultivation in our changeable clim.itic

^^Sli..^

rRl.MUI..\ REinU, \ RARE .\Xn BE.\UTIFUL PRIMROSE WITH WHITE FLOWERS.

in must not be delayed too long, or the ball of
soil will become very dry, when several waterings
will be needed to soak it thoroughly through again.
March or April struck plants, as soon as nicely
rooted in the 3-inch pots, should be potted on
into tinch or 4i-inch pots, keeping the lights on
them for a few days till they become established,
when they should be removed to the open air and
treated in the same way as the earlier-rooted plants.
Early-Flowering Chrysanthemums.— Whether

intended as cut flowers or for the embellishment
of the garden, these should be planted out during
the early part of the month. Richly-manured
soil is not necessary, but ground that has been
well worked is quite essential for success. For
cutting purposes the plants should be arranged
in beds uf three or four rows wide, and if planted
in this manner they may easily be covered in the
autumn. It is astonishing the quality of bloom

conditions being imperfectly understood. To those
possessing a cool greenhouse or frame, little
difficulty should be experienced in growing this
species well.

It is most satisfactory to raise this plant from

; seed. This should be sown during February or

! March in a seed-pan and kept under moist con-

' ditions in a temperature of from 50° to 55°, water-

I ing when necessary by standing the seed-pan in

a saucer of water. Germination soon takes place,

but the young seedlings should be left until the

', first true leaves are formed. They may then be

pricked out carefully in a fine compost such as is

generally used for this purpose, keeping them under

the same conditions of temperature and moisture

as that used for germination, taking care to shade

from the strong sunlight until they are established.

Treated in this manner the plants produce a strong

autumn growth, and sturdy specimens are obtained

232

THE GARDEN.

[May 10. 1913.

before winter. About October they may be placed
in a cold frame and kept fairly dry at the roots
until March, when they may be removed to warmer
quarters ii required early and given a more liberal
supply of water, and the greater percentage will
be found to produce their attractive white flowers
with the growth . of the leaves. If tried upon
the rockery, every means possible should be used
to retard growth until this is safe from late frosts,
and a sheet of glass or some such covering used to
throw off excessive moisture. This 'Species is
really perennial, and may be propagated by divid-
ing the young shoots that sometimes spring from
the sides of the plant ; but raising by seed is prefer-
able, ind gives better results. The illustration
shows one of the two pans exhibited at the Primula
Conference held at the Royal Horticultural Society's
Hall on April 16, and portrays the. beauty of this
species when well grown. R. L. Harrow.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh.

PLANTS FOR A STREAM GARDEN-

Not every garden can boast natural means
wherein to cultivate water-side plants, and

actual water-level, for although numerous plants
revel with their roots in wet soil, yet they
enjoy somewhat drier conditions around the
crowns.

On heavy soils, and without large trees in the
vicinity to send their roots into it, well-puddled
clay offers a cheap and inexpensive material for
holding water. It requires to be thoroughly
worked into a plastic condition before laying down,
and, to ensure the work being thoroughly done,
only a small quantity should be treated at a time,
while all completed parts must be kept damp
until water is turned on. A thickness of 6 inches
to 9 inches is generally employed. Cement concrete
is also much in request for lining water areas,
and is best laid down in two coats ; but before
doing so all moved ground must be rammed abso-
lutely firm, otherwise shrinkage will inevitably
follow, and may possibly ruin the work. The
first layer is formed of rough ballast and cement,
used in the proportion of three of the former to
one of the latter, and is well beaten together while
it is green. The second coat is applied when this
is partlv firm but not fully set, so that both may

I. A WELL-TRAINED PEAR TREE IN THE ROYAL G.\RDENS, WINDSOR.

elaborate facilities are a luxury for the few.
Happily, tlie pleasure associated with water
gardening may be enjoyed with the aid of
quite simple means on a small scale, and the
success obtained with the latter is often very
great, A pretty effect is given to the water garden
when arranged in the form of a stream garden,
the water being given an irregular course and for
the greater part of its length confined to a narrow
channel, with one or more wider parts introduced
in the form of pools, in which Nymphaas and other
choice aquatics can be grown. While the narrow
channel and pools will form the actual area showing
water and be lined with some impervious material,
the sides of these, if shelved some nine inches
below ground-level and lined with similar material
and filled with soil, will make congenial positions
for growing moisture-loving and bog plants. The
soil in these beds should come quite 9 inches above

unite together. Fine washed sand tjiree parts
and Portland cement one part, well mixed and
laid over a 3-inch coat of the rough material, will
generally prove sufficiently strong for any water
scheme on a moderate scale, and if the face is
well worked as this coat is laid, a perfectly
impervious lining will result. When all is
thoroughly firm and hard, the bog-beds are
filled with a compost of two parts fibrous loam
to ofte part of peat and leaf-soil mixed, and if
this is made moderately firm, planting may take
place at once.

April and May are the two best months of the
year for moving water and bog plants, as growth
is then becoming active, and with all the summer
in front of them they become established and
often give a good display the first year. Of effec-
tive bog plants that succeed close to the margin
of the water, Caltha palustris flore plena is showy

and reliable. Mimulus Brilliant spreads out into
great masses of coppery red flowers. Primulas
rosea, japonica, pulverulenta, cockburniana, Sie-
boldii, sikkimensis and buUeyana are invaluable
for this position, and present a bright display
from April till the end ot July. Ranunculus
aconitifolius plena and acris flore plena are bright
subjects for an early display. Trollius in lemon,
yellow and orange follow later. Dwarf Astilbes
like Silver Sheaf, chinensis and Queen Alexandra
are conspicuous objects in the water garden, where
the moist conditions bring out all their latent
beauty.

Of the Iris family, all the selected forms
of Iris sibiricaa re good ; so, too, are the hybrid
forms of Monspur and the giants Iris aurea and
gigantea ; both flower in July. I. Kaempferi
presents most gorgeous colours and the greatest
variety, and therefore calls for liberal representa-
tion. Rodgersias podophylla, pinnata and tabu-
laris are reliable bog plants of moderate growth.
Any of the Arendsii hybrid Astilbes give an eflec-
tive display, and the species Davidii, grandis
and rivularis develop masses of their showy spikes.
This also applies to Spiraia,
of which palmata and
venusta are excellent
among the dwarfer kinds,
and kamschatica (gigantea)
and A r u n c u s the best
of the tall growers.
Senecios, being strong sub-
jects, demand much space.
Artemisia lactiflora flowers
late, and on this account
is welcome. Varieties of
Phlox decussata, Michael-
mas Daisies and Solidagos
are never finer than
when informally grouped
under the conditions of a
bog.

The light and graceful
habit of ornamental
drasses, when suitably
placed, augment the beauty
of the flowering plants. In
this connection the elegance
of Bamboos must not be
overlooked, as they are
inimitable as backgrounds
in small gardens, and in
larger areas they may
figure prominently in the
foreground close above the
water's edge. Other effec-
tive Grasses are Arundo macrophylla glauca,
Cyperus longus, Scirpus zebrinus, Glyceria spec-
tabilis variegata, Carex pendula and riparia
variegata, and Miscanthus zebrinus. Some of
these are aggressive in character, and all are
best given positions where they cannot overrun
choicer things. Small ledges at the sides of the
basins or a few loose stones along the margin placed
in the water, with a quantity cf soil to start them,
is the best way I have found to attain this end.
In the drier part of the bog Liliums pardalinum
and snperbum, with Cypripedium spectabile and
some Osmundas, Onoclea and Struthiopteris
among them, will present a charming feature,
to which Trilliums and Dodecatheons may be
added as a ground carpet. There are, of course,
many other good and suitable plants, but the above
will suffice for a start. Thomas Smith.

Coomb( Courl Gardens, Kingston Hill. Surrey.

May 10, 1913]

THE GARDEN.

233

TRAINED FRUIT TREES AT FLOWERING TIME.

J HEX fruit trees are in flower it
is an anxious time for the fruit-

% / % / grower. An abundance of
^/ ^u blossom may be a hopeful

' " sign ; but, alas, how often a

good promise has been followed
by a paucity of fruit ! The havoc that may be
wrought tlirough frost in a single night is only too
well known. Judging by recent observations,
however, the Apple-sucker, or Psylla, is responsible
for much injury to Apple blossom, while a great
deal of damage usually attributed to frost is due
to a bacillus, so far imperfectly understood, which
causes the flowers to blacken and fall off. So far
as the Apple-sucker, or Psylla, is concerned, we
refer readers to The Garden for March 8, con-
taining the life-history of the pest, together with
numerous illustrations. The .-Vpple-sucker is a
tiny creature which attacks the flowers as they
begin to e.xpand, and the dead flower-trusses will
hang on the spurs for a long time. This pest has
been kept in check by spraying with a mixture
of quicklime and salt when the trees are dormant,
followed by a decoction of Tobacco at the time of
the bursting of the buds. Green fly and the cater-
pillars of bcjth the winter moth and the Codlin
moth are likely to prove troublesome, but these
may be kept in check by spraying with a solution
of arsenate of lead (2lb. to fifty gallons of water)
soon after the petals fall. Arsenate of lead
has been foimd of greater value than Paris
green, and the latter is being discarded in
favour of the former by many of our large fruit-
growers.

At one time fruit trees were trained with greater
care than they are to-day. Gardeners of the old
school took the keenest pride in this work ; but now
it is only in well-ordered gardens that one finds
trees trained in the same skilful manner as they
were a few decades ago. In a great measure
this is due to nurserymen, who are an.vious
to make saleable trees in too short a space

of time, whereby the
foundation of
the trees is seriously
impaired.

The three accom-
panying illustrations
depict well-trained
fruit trees in the
Royal Gardens,
Windsor. In each
case it will be noted
the tree is full of
fruiting wood, and
the trusses of bloom
are seen from the
base to the top of
each trained branch.
This point is well
portrayed in illus-
tration No. 2, show-
ing a shapely tree
of Pear Winter Nelis
in full bloom. Here
there is as much
bloom in the centre
of the tree near
to the main stem as
there is on any other
part of the tree.
Now, it is cnly trees
well trained in early
life that give such
satisfactory- results.

Trained trees
require constant care
and attention at all

times, and at the present season there is much
to attend to. Should a leading shoot be making
luxuriant growth at the expense of another, it
is advisable to slightly bend it down, for this will
have the effect of checking the growth. If, on
the other hand, a shoot is weak, it may be trained

^.-THE METH011 OF TRAINING A FRUIT TREE OVER A WIRE TRELLIS.

PEAR WINTER NELIS WITH A FINE SHOW OF BLOOM.

up for the time being, and, having made satisfac-
tory growth, it may be brought to its correct
position. Young growths, particularly on Peaches
and Nectarines, require thinning and regulating,
the remaining growths being tied and nailed up
in position. Very shortly the thinning of stone
fruits may be carried out, so as to
secure an even distribution. In
doing this it is advisable to first
of all remove imperfect .and badly-
placed fruits, but it is not wise to
hasten the work of thinning until one
IS sure of the fruits that are set.
With trained Pear trees it is cus-
tomary in some gardens to wash
them well down with a hose or
garden engine when the fruits are
set, and the practice has much to
commend it, for it is a good method
of removing imperfectly-set fruits.

Fig. I on the page opposite depicts
a remarkably well-trained tree fur-
nished throughout With fruiting spurs.
The wire trellis over which fruit trees
arc trained (see fig. 3), is one of the
features of the famous Windsor
gardens. A low trellis, clothed mainly
with Pears, runs either side of the
central walk in the kitchen garden.
It is a feature that might well be
adopted in other gardens. In regard
to wall-trained trees, it is well to bear
in mind that the walls keep off a great
deal of water, and the trees are often
dry at the roots, even after heavy rains.

234

THE GARDEN.

[May 10, 1913,

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.
Early-Flowering Chrysanthemums. — No time

should now be lost in getting those planted, whether
they are intended for beautifying the garden or
for cut fiowers. It is not necessary to plant in richly-
manured ground, but there should be sufficient
nourishment in the soil to maintain a steady growth
throughout the summer, giving a little further
nourishment just prior to the flowering period.

Planting in Borders. — The plants make a good
display in the borders when planted in fairly large
clumps of from three to ten plants ; but such large
clumps can only be utilised when the borders are
wide, and consideration should be given in selecting
the colours to harmonise or contrast with the
other occupants. For cutting purposes they
should be planted in beds about six feet wide,
where they can be easily looked after during the
summer and covered, if necessary, during the
blooming period, allowing from 18 inches to 2 feet
between the plants, according to the variety.

Summer-Bedding Plants. — Should the weather
be favourable, some of the more hardy plants,
such as Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, Marguerites,
or even Zonal Pelargoniums, properly hardened,
may be removed from the frames to a sheltered
position out of doors, though it may be necessary
to have light tiffany at hand in case of late frosts.
This gradual hardening off will make room for the
more tender occupants of the houses and frames,
many of which it may be unsafe to remove to the
open air till the end of the month. Zonal Pelar-
goniums and Fuchsias that have filled their pots
with roots should not be neglected in the matter
of manure, and, when handling, a pinch of Clay's
Fertilizer should be given to each of them, thus
keeping them in good condition till planting-time.

Plants Under Glass.

Roses. — Climbing Roses in pots should be well
looked after in the way of water and manure.
Precautions must also be taken to keep them free
from fly by fumigation or spraying. At this season
full sunlight is not necessary, and a little shading
should We given to keep the temperature down
and to prevent loss of colour in the blooms.

Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas from which
the blooms have been cut may safely be removed to
the open air. Many of the plants will, no doubt, have
made a fair quantity of secondary growth, and if
the plants are carefully looked after, this will
provide a certain amount of bloom before the
outdoor Roses come on to flower.

Gloxinias coming into flower should be afforded
a slightly lower temperature than when growing,
also a less moist house would be advantageous.
Seedling plants must be kept growing and potted
on as they require it, though 4j-inch pots should
be large enough to flower them in the first season.

Tuberous Begonias started early in March
should now be fit for transferring to their flowering
pots, a rich, open compost made fairly firm in the
pots suiting them well. A certain amount of
humidity in the atmosphere of the house and a
little shade are two points that must be observed
to attain good results with these plants.

The Kitchen Garden.

Peas. — Many ciif the niidseason Peas will now
be fit for staking, and in the event of a wet season
the height of the stakes should not be stinted.
Slope the top of the stakes slightly outwards,
thus avoiding the trouble of the haulm growing
through and hanging down, which is often the
case when the tops of the stakes meet.

Late Peas. — In some soils it is advisable to sow
late Peas on the top of well-prepared trenches, the
extra manure and deep working tending to tide them
over a very dry spell. In this district Autocrat is
by far the best late Pea, and, being very robust in
habit, the plants should be thinned to about four
' inches apart when about two inches high.

Broad Beans planted out of pots are sometimes
apt to be blown or topple over when the pods
commence to swell, so it is advisable to stake or
run a string from end to end of the rows to keep
the plants upright. The early batch should be
topped as soon as sufficient pods are set to form a
crop, and a dressing of artificial manure will
greatly help them in this stage.

Seedling Onions, Carrots, Beet, Turnips and
Brassicas should be systematically sooted to
ward ofi slugs and attacks of fly, and as soon as
they are nicely through the soil the hoe should
be run between them, repeating this operation
as often as may be necessary to keep the soil from
becoming beaten dowTi or clogged, as in this
condition seedlings are very slow in making growth.

Fruits Under Glass.

Thinning Grapes. — The matter of thinning in
successional houses must be proceeded with, as a few
days' neglect may mean that the berries will become
tight, and the thinning operation is much more
difficult and the berries likely to be injured by
thrusting the scissors between them.

Midseason and Late Grapes naturally need
rather more thinning than the earlier varieties,
and round-berried varieties more than oval ones.
Alicantes and any other varieties with heavy
shoulders should be carefully tied up before thin-
ning, and I would again remind readers that
then the berries on the shoulders may be left rather
more closely than the rest of the bunch, so that as
the berries swell they are just thick enough to
keep the top berries in position, and so improve
not only the shape but the weight of the bunch.

Tomatoes. — Early batches are fast swelling
their fruit, and if the plants happen to be in 9-inch
pots, the point of the shoot should be pinched out
after they have set about five good trusses, this
being quite sufficient for a pot of this size, unless
the roots can get into the soil or turves which
may be placed beneath the pots. Such a stopping
naturally increases the weight of the trusses as
well as inducing early ripening, which is very
essential for the earliest crops.

Successional Batches must be got into their
fruiting quarters as they become fit. If planted in
borders in the houses, too great a root-run is not
necessary, as it often induces too free growth.
A few inches of soil, with top-dressings as the
plants make growth, is the best system to adopt.
Keep the plants fairly dry till the first trusses of
bloom begin to open, when they may have rather
more liberal treatment.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wobiini Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Calceolarias. — if the weather is good and the
ground clear, Calceolarias may now be planted
with safety, although it might be well to delay
dealing with C. amplexicaulis for ten days or so.

East Lothian Stocks. — These showy annuals
may now be planted out if the weather is favour-
able. See that the ground has a good tilth and
lift the plants carefully with a trowel, with which
they should be planted in preference to a dibber.
Having few fibrous roots. Stocks should be watered
immediately after being planted. It is a good
plan to push a twig of Yew or Thuya up the
spout of the watering-pot to break the force of the
flow, and then water without a rose.

Sowing Biennials. — Some people prefer to sow
Wallflowers and other biennials in June ; but if
one desires to have strong plants either for
autumn or spring planting, I would recommend
sowing at the present time. Among Wallflowers,
Vulcan for a red and Golden Monarch for a yellow
are unexcelled, while Eastern Queen, Ruby Gem and
Primrose Dame are excellent in their way. Among
Forget-me-nots, Royal Blue and Myosotis alpestris
Victoria are hard to beat. In selecting Sweet
Williams for massing, selfs are the best. Sutton's
Pink Beauty and Sutton's Scarlet, with a good
crimson, will satisfy most tastes. Other biennials
to be recommended are Canterbury Bells, Car-
nation Grenadin, and Anchusas italica Dropmore
variety and Opal. It is too early to sow Holly-
hocks yet.

The Reserve Garden.

Preparatory Work. — See that the ground is in
a fit condition for the reception of the various
subjects to be planted during the next few weeks.
Where Primulas and Polyanthuses are to be
planted for the summer, a fair amount of humus
will be necessary, either in the form of well-rotted
manure or half-decayeil Ii-mvhs.

Planting Bulbs. — Good varieties of Narcissus
and Tulip that have done duty as spring bedders
should be run into nursery lines rather thickly,
to be lifted and dried for future use when the
foliage has died down.

The Rock Garden.

Half-Hardy Plants.— The bulk of our bona-
ftde alpine plants bloom in spring or early summer,
leaving the rock garden rather grey and uninterest-
ing during the late summer and autumn months.
This can be remedied if a pocket here and there
is left vacant for suitable summer-flowering sub-
jects, and these may either be annuals or half-
hardy perennials. Among suitable annuals I
would suggest the following : Abronia umbellata,
Acrocliniums, Alyssum minimum, Limnanthes
Douglasii, Linaria in variety, Matthiola bicornis,
Nemesia in variety and many others. Among
perennials might be mentioned Cupheas, Fuchsia
procumbens, Altemantheras, Echeverias in variety
and Lobelias.

Plants Under Glass.

Zonal Pelargoniums. — Sprmg-struck stock for
autumn flowering should now be removed to a
cold frame and be gradually hardened off. Older
plants for summer display should be pinched for
the last time.

Seedling Francoas. — Where a batch is being
raised from seed, the plants will now be ready for
potting up into 3-inch pots, after which they should
be removed to a cold frame.

Rehmannia angulata Pink Beauty. — This useful

conservatory plant will now require staking, for
although severely pinched, as it ought to be, it
grows fairly tall. Only slender stakes, such as
Bamboo tips, should, however, be used to support
its slender stems.

Fruits Under Glass.

Stopping Vines. — This work must have close
attention, both for the conservation of energy
and the admission of sufficient light. Sublaterals
should not be allowed to develop beyond one joint.

Aerial Roots of Vines. — These may be induced
from various causes — too hard forcing, excess of
moisture, or insufficient ventilation. Their appear-
ance should be a warning to revise the general
regime. Where the foliage is being maintained
in a leathery condition, aerial roots will not give
much trouble.

Melons. — Plants swelling their fruits should
have abundance of water at the roots, with occa-
sional doses of liquid manure. A mulching of
old Mushroom manure will prove highly beneficial.
Attend closely to pollination where required.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Loganberries. — Attention must be given to
tying in the young shoots at an early stage, as
they are easily damaged. The same remark
applies to Raspberries, especially where they are
trained to a trellis.

Hoeing. — The Dutch hoe should be kept going
freely, for by doing so one aerates the soil and
keeps down weeds by one effort.

The Vegetable Garden.

Broccoli. — It will be a great advantage if the
young plants are pricked out about three inches
apart, instead of leaving them in the seed-bed
to become drawn and weakly. As soon as the
present season's crop is cut, the ground should be
cleared, manured and dug finely to be ready for a
summer crop. Leeks or late Peas form a good
succession to Broccoli.

Earthing-Up Potatoes. — Prior to commencing
this operation the ground should be forked over
between the drills, as the Potato enjoys a free root-
run. Earthing-up should be done twice, drawing
up a little earth when the stems are about six
inches high, and completing the operation a
fortnight later.

Broad Beans. — These should be earthed-up
when about a foot high. It is sometimes asked,
" What is the utility of this earthing-up ? " and
I reply, " It steadies the plants and raises the
temperature of the soil." A late planting may
yet be put in, but no time must be lost.

Thinning Turnips. — Early crops should be

thinned out first to about two inches apart, every
alternate plant to be thinned out a fortnight later.
When pulling commences, thin out again to allow
the remainder to swell out.

Charles Comkort.
Hrooml'teld Gardens, Davidson's Mains. Midloikian.

May 10, 1913.

THE GAllDEN.

235

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Primula La Lorraine.— A hybrid said tu

liave originated from the crossing of P. Veitchii
and P. cortusoides amtena, the new-comer being
intermediate between the parents. P. Veitchii,
itself of the cortusoides set, appears in the hybrid
to have influenced leaf-growth and woolliness
with compactness of flowering, the other parent
having given of its colour and size of blossom
individually. The flowers are rose-coloured, almost
Rose du Barri shade. Only a small plant was
e.xhibited, and though remarkable for freedom
oi flowering, will doubtless presently reveal a
fuller development. It is of Continental origin.
Shown by Mr. M. Prichard, Christchurch,
Hants.

iCthionema armenum Warley Hybrid.— In

efieit this pretty alpine sub-shrub is that of a rosy
red flowered, compact-growing coridifolium (Iberis
jucunda) rather than that of the species to which
it is here referred. In any case, it is a delightful
plant of about six inches high, the flowers arranged
in close, terminal, rounded racemes. From Miss
Willmott. Warley Place.

Rose Erna Teschendorff. — .\ crimson-flowered
Polyantha Rose after the style of Jessie, but of a
deeper crimson than that variety. Great things
are said of it, though British gardeners at least
would have preferred a more easily pronounce-
able name. This pretty Rose has repeatediv
been shown this year by Mr. George Prince,
Longworth. It was presented on this occasion by
Mr. Profittlich, Twickenham.

Wallflower Primrose Monarch.— This has pale

yellow flowers of large size. The habit is dwarf
and compact. Unfortunately, the true Wallflower
fragrance is quite lacking in the plant. From
.Mr. Moss, Kelvedoii, Essex.

Narcissus Venetia.— A delightful triandrus
hybrid of singular purity and grace. Many of the
scapes were two-flowered, the new-comer showing
a plant of considerable vigour. Individually the
flowers were about three and a-half inches across.
From Mr. W. B. Crantield, Enfield.

Narcissus Evangeline.— .\ Leedsii variety which
has come in for honours rather late in the day.
Notwithstanding, it is a good and desirable sort,
holding its own in any collection, and cheap
withal. It is a somewhat rounded, shapely flower,
3 inches across, and of ivory white colour. From
Mr. H. N. PhUlips, Olton.

All the above were shown before the floral
committee of the Royal Horticultural Society on
the 29th ult., when the awards were made.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

THE EDITOR'S TABLE.

Star-Flowered Cinerarias.- From Messrs. Jar-
man and Co., seed-growers and nurserymen of
Chard, Somersetshire, we have received a great
variety of the Star-flowered Cinerarias. The
flowers have quilled and in some cases curiously
twisted ray florets, and are popularly known as
Cactus Cinerarias. A very fine range of colour,
including clear blues and soft pinks, was included,
and Messrs. Jarman, who grow the plants exten-
sively for seed, inform us that the strain is perfectly
fixed. For greenhouse and conservatory decora-
tion in early spring this race of Cineraria stellata
is sure to be widely growTi when better known.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON FRUIT.

Caterpillars on Gooseberries.— It is of para-
mount importance that amateurs shall maintain
the keenest watch on their Gooseberries, or the
probabilities are that they will wake up to find
the plants so terribly infested with caterpillars
that the most drastic steps will have to be taken
to ensure their complete extirpation. These
enemies are rapid and industrious workers, and
while it is acknowledged that the Gooseberry is
an accommodating plant, with remarkable powers
of recuperation, it is impossible for it to sustain
such an attack without serious debilitation. There-
fore watch, and the instant an enemy is seen
destroy it. There are preparations advertised
in The Gardes that will most admirably answer
the purpose for which they are advised, or reliance
may be placed on lime or white Hellebore powder
dressed on when the leaves and stems are damp
after rain or dew. Repeated applications will
be required to keep everything in order.

Weak Trees. — Fruit trees that are not making
as much progress as one could desire ought to be
given special assistance. The trouble with those
who are not experienced in fruit culture is, as a
rule, to check them in their desire to feed, with a
view to producing a tree that is conspicuous for
its handsomeness ; but, unfortunately, such a
conditicm spells unfruitfulness in many instances,
and the grower is therefore going on the wrong
track. Where, however, a tree is stunted, it may
be most advantageously assisted to make wood,
as this will in due course spell more profit in the
form of excellent fruit. Nothing strong must be
given, and whatever is applied should be given
when the soil is moist to a depth of not less than
2 feet.

manure, because it might not become scrupulously
clean before the crop began to swell for ripening,
but with slightly-stained material there need be
no fear or hesitation on that score. A prehminary
to the spreading of the litter is thorough hoeing,
as well to remove weeds as to admit warm, fresh
air to the roots. .Any weeds that cannot safely
be removed with the hoe ought to be pulled out by
hand. .An application of old soot in sufficient
quantity to darken the surface often does great
good at this time of the year, or, if it is deemed
that there is a real lack of readily available food, one
of the many excellent concentrated plant fertilisers
specially recommended for Strawberries may be used
with decided advantage; but care must be e.ver-
cised to guard against an excess, or far more harm
than good will inevitably follow. ([ ] yv.

Raspberries. — If abundance of growths may
be accepted as indicative of health and vigour
in the Raspberrj- plantation — and there is no
reason why they should not — then the plants
are now in fine condition, and will yield splendid
crops this year and build up strength to bear
heavily again next year. It is, however, impor-
tant that thinning shall be put in hand. It is
early as compared with most seasons, perhaps,
but this does not alter the fact that it is desirable
to put it in hand. Remove all growths that cannot
have permanent value in the beds, since the longer
they remain, the more food they will draw from
the valuable parts of the plants, and the more light
aiid air they will obstruct from the fruiting canes.
If the plants have not been mulched, remove all
weeds and do the work at once.

Cropping Young Trees. — It is unwise to crop

a tree in the first season after planting. One
must acknowledge, of course, that the temptation
to do so is strong, but it results in stunted growth
and consequent failure to build up a tree that wdl
bear profitably for many years. Amateurs should
harden their hearts and remove any fruits that are
seen, in the certainty that it will be to their ultimate
interests to do so. .-V fruit tree cannot properly
establish itself and develop crops at the same
time, and the former is the particular object for
the first season or two ; afterwards the fruits will
come.

Mulching Strawberries. — It is necessary that

the mulching shall be applied to Strawberry plan-
tations as soon as possible, especially where stained
straw is to be utilised. One would not advocate
the use of litter containing a large proportion of

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— 77/.^ J-:d,tor intnifi.t to
make Thk (;.\RDKN h,>li}fnl U, all rntdent who desire assist-
(ince. no matter what the hramh of ijardening may be. and
with that object will nmke a special feature of the "Ansiverg
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only
and addressed to the EuiTou of THE (lARDKN, 20, Taoistock
Street, Cuvent Garden. London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-imol, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should he sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not cfiaracteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.

FLOWER GARDEN.

PRUNING ROMNEYA COULTERI (H. G. A'.).— It is
immaterial wlietiuT you cut down your plant of Romneya
Coulteri to the ground or not. It will not be killed
by cutting it down, but as the branches are quite healthy
there is no reason why it should be so pruned. As a rule,
the flowers are rather smaller from plants which have'
been -left unpruned than from those which have been
pnmed hard, but a great many more flowers are often
borne by unpruned specimens. We therefore advise you
to simply shorten any weak side shoots and the point of
branches which may bi- dead. A surface-dressing of
well-decayed niauure may be given with advantage.

SEEDS FOR SHRUB BORDER iDolpftin).~lt would
have assisted us in giving a selection had you stated the
width of the border, since the plants suited to one 3 feet
wide would be a little out of place in one twice that width.
There is, however, a great variety, ranging from those
of a few inches to others of 6 feet or more; of dwarf
ones, Nemophila insignis, Candytuft in colours, Godetia,
Linum sanguineum, Phacelia campanularia, Alyssum
maritimum, Dianthus Heddewiggii, Leptosiphou, him-
nanthes Douglasii, Schizanthus, Love-in-a-AIist, Alonsoa
Warscewiczii, Dimorphotheca aurantiaca, Convolvulus
minor, Chrysanthemum cariuatum, C. coronarium (both
in variety) and many more. Poppies, too, would be
showy, and Sweet Sultans would give colour and fragrance.
The whole of these could be sown in the open ground,
and none exceeds 2 feet in height in the ordinary way.

ANEMONE HEPATICA (E. F.).— It is doubtful whether
you will be able to obtain seeds of Anemone Hepatica,
although one of the large firms of seedsmen, such as
Veitch, Webb, Sutton, or Carter, may be able to procure
them for you if they do not catalogue them. You would,
however, do much better by obtaining the dried roots-
later on and starting with them. They may be secured
through any of the large bulb-dealers. Suitable bulbs
for the ground beneath your Oak and Birch trees are
Narcissi in variety, particularly the varieties Emperor,
Empress, Leedsii, Poeticus and its ditferent forms, Barri
conspicuus and the common double Daffodil. You may
also plant Crocuses of various kinds and colours, for
they continue to spread and flower well for many years,
even where the grass is dense. Where the grass is rather
thin, you may also plant Chionodoxas and Snowdrops.
The ordinary common Bliiebell and the Spanish Bluebell
(Scilla hispanica) are also suitable.

PLANTING FLOWER-BEDS AND VASES (V. W. B.).-^
We are pleased to hear of the complete success of the
TiUip arrangement in the Italian garden. With respect
to the summer beds, we think you have rather overdone
the Aubrietia groeca, and between this and the flowering
of the Lilies in September there will be a big gap. Some
Tufted Pansies would have yiven a more profuse flowering.

236

THE GARDEN.

[May 10, 1913.

The suggestions for Beds A and B will do admirably.
For Vase C you might get a big Fan Palm (Latania bor-
bonica), and as colour is valuable at this point, bed it
around with brilliantjjcarniine Celosias over a ground-
work . of ..Saxifraga xhypnoides, treating the other^vaso
similarly. For Bed D we think. you had better apply
to such Begonia specialists as Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited,
Feltham, or to Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon, Twerton
Hill Nursery, Bath, both Arms having strains of these
flowers of the highest excellence. These varieties are
usually selected to colour by the firms named, and are
graded in shades throughout.

ARRANGING BORDER {Regular Reader).— The size
of the clump is entirely optional, though in a border of
the dimensions you name it would be best to arrange
irregular groups tlu-oughout, starting, say, with 2-feet-
wide masses at the front and 4 feet wide for the others.
The good effect at howering-time will, naturally, depend
upon the informality of the groups and the way the
colours are blended. In setting out the perennials,
for e-vample, avoid arranging colours -that approximate
to each other, k Since of necessity the strong would over-
power the weak, two Delphiniums or two Phloxes whose
colour shades are near akin should be well separated,
and the same may be said of Michaelmas Daisies and
many others. As the border is an important one, you
ought really to plant to a plan previously arranged, so
that the colours would blend. In setting out the groups,
carefully avoid repetition, whether of size or form. The
groups, whether annuals or perennials, might extend
longitudinally to 6 feet or more, running down from
a 4 feet boldness to quite a narrow finish. In this way
you would create variety of form, a very desirable thing.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

MICROMELES FOLGNERI (./. £.).— Micromeles Folg-
neri is an ornamental tree allied to the Pyruses. It is a
native of China, and was introduced to this country
about twelve years ago. Of elegant habit, it has pendent
branches which are clothed with silvery leaves and bear
Battened heads of white flowers. The small fruits ditfer
from those of Pyrus, principally by having no calyx lobes
to the apex.

AZALEAS NOT FLOWERING (£. D. L.).— The Azalea
indica shoots sent for examination are too weak to produce
fiower-buds ; moreover, the leaves are very dirty, being
infested with tlirips. Weak growth may have been
caused by the cold, sunless weather of last summer, or
the plants may not have been fed sufficiently last year.
The reason for the insect attack is probably due to the
plants being kept in too dry and too warm an atmosphere.
You had better fumigate the plants with Tobacco or one
of the commercial nicotine preparations fortnightly for
a time, or syringe them with a nicotine solution now and
then. Give weak manure-water occasionally while the
new growth is being made, providing the plants are not
repotted .

LICHEN ON AZALEAS (Rema). — The moss and lichens
on your hardy Azaleas can be destroyed by spraying
the bushes during the winter with a caustic wash. This
may be made by taking 21b. of caustic soda (98 per cent.),
lialf a pound of soft soap, five pints of paraffin and ten
gallons of soft water, mixing them as follows ; Dissolve
the soft soap in one gallon of boiling water, and while
hot add the paraffin and sth into a creamy liquid. Dissolve
the caustic soda in uine gallons of soft water, and into the
solution pour the paraffin emulsion and stir thorouglily.
The mixture may only be used when the bushes are dor-
mant, as the soda will burn expanding buds and leaves.
India-rubber or leather gloves should be worn while the
wash is being applied, and a calm day should be selected
for the work.

with Violas, but have one colour to each bed. The blues
go well with the yellow Roses, white and cream with reds,
and so on. *By drawing your plan and painting in it
the approximate (colour of the Roses, you could have a
nice colour-scheme with the Violas.

SOCIETIES.

ROSE GARDEN.

PARAFFIN EMULSION FOR SPRAYING ROSES

(L. D. C). — This can be made as follows ; Dissolve one
quart of soft soap in two quarts of boiling soft water.
Remove from the Bre, and while still boiling hot add one
pint of paraffin oil and immediately chum the mixture
witl> a small hand syringe. In five minutes a perfect
emulsion will be obtained. For use dilute with ten
times its volume of water.

ROSE HIAWATHA WITH DISEASED GROWTHS
(0. W.). — The warty-like growth upon the shoots of some
varieties of wichuraiana Roses is supposed to be a fungus
peculiar to the tribe. We have not seen any serious
harm arise from its presence, and as the growth is one
of the best upon the plant, we should advise you to rub
off the warty growth and paint the part over with some
painter's knotting or liquid grafting-wax.

REVISING ROSE PLAN (B. 6'.).— There have been
many lovely introductions during the last seven years,
so that the plan so carefully prepared by our valued
contributor Mr. A. R. Goodwin in 1906 will, of course,
be open to revision. We would suggest substituting
Cheshunt Scarlet, Irish Glory, Camoens, Kaisorin
Augusta Victoria, Marquise de Salisbury, Mme. E.
Boullct, Earl of Warwick, Senateur Belle, Mme. Edm(Se
Metz, Elizabeth liitto, Farbenkonigin and Anne Marie
Soupert by the following in their same order : General
Macarthur, Lieutenant Chaure, Mrs. Allied Tate, Molly
Sharman Crawford, President Vignet, Sunburst, Mrs. W.
Christie Miller, Mrs. Aaron Ward, Mme. Segond Weber,
Lady Alice Stanley, Chateau de C!os Vougeot and Laurent
Carle. 2. The plan could be reversed to east and west.
3. Climbing Roses would look best quite on the outside
of the plan. A series of pillars connected by ropes or chains
would have a nice effect. 4. You may carpet the beds

THE GREENHOUSE.

CHERRY-BLOSSOM FORCED (A. H.).— In common
with nearly all hardy fruit trees, the flowers of the Cherry
can be biought on in advance of the normal time if branches
are cut and put in water in a warm greenhotise until the
bloom is approaching perfection. The blossom is all the
more readily produced if the cut end of the stem is sliced
up across and across and the bark raised in three or fom-
strips for a couple of inches, or if the whole end is beaten
and crushed, with a hammer or mallet on a block. The
object of this' is to expose a larger amount of woody fibre
to the action of the water. There is no need to add
charcoal if the water is changed every two or three days.

JAPANESE MAPLE (A. Z.I.— Judging by the leaves
sent, your Japanese Maple seems to be in a sorry plight,
and we are doubtful if it is not too far gone to revive it.
These dwarf trees are the result of what may be termed
systematic ill-treatment ; that is, they have insufficient
root room to allow for their natural development, and the
soil used is poor in quality. The result of this is that the
plant gradually falls into a debilitated condition and is
uuable to assimilate powerful foods. We should be
inclined to turn the plant ciut of I lie pot and examine the
condition of the roots. It is inciliiible that all the soil will
come awav, in which case the plant should be repotted in
some good' sweet compost. Then place it in a frame kept
rather close and shaded, give just enough water to keep
the soil moist, and spray overhead two or three times a day.

MISCELLANEOUS.

DUCKWEED IN PONDS (f. 0.).— It is improbable that
the introduction of gold-flsh 01 carp will keep your ponds
clear of Duckweed, but it might be worth trying. The
best plan is to keep the Duckweed raked out as much as
possible. This may be done by lining an ordinary sieve
with coarse canvas and attaching it to the end of a pole, so
using it as a skimmer. In case there is any slime on the
water, treat the ponds with copper sulphate as advised to
Mrs. E. Fryctt in our next week's issue.

APPLICATION OF BASIC SLAG (Amateur). — Basic
slag is a valuable manure, as it supplies lime (which comiter-
acts acidity) and phosphates to the soil in a form which
plants can use after a time. But it is slowly soluble only,
and must be used only in autumn on that account. We
should recommend the sowing of the slag, at the rate of, say,
3oz. to 4oz. to the square yard of the surface, just befoie
digging the soil in the autumn. It gives the best results
on clay soils, or those containing a good deal of moisture.
LIVING FROM THE LAND (O. IF.).— You state your
case much more lucidly and satisfactorily in the
last letter. It is true that gardeners are often so
situated that the education of the cliildren is difficult and
sometimes impossible ; but the very fact that there are
cliUdren who must be clothed and fed as well as educated
must make one pause in advising the step you propose.
You have knowledge and practical experience, and these
tilings spell much. Have you the determination to work
from dawn to dark for next to nothing, for it means that
until your crops are at perfection 1 Have you a wife who
will be leady — nay, anxious — to help you in your work
both before and after the household tasks are commenced
and finished ? If you can answer the question about
yourself with an emphatic " Yes," and that about your wife
"with an equaUy emphatic "Yes," go ahead and you will
succeed. If you have even the slightest doubt on either
or both points, rest contented where you are, for the con-
templated chance can only end in disaster. If you desire
to proceed, keep enough cash for six months, and bear in
miud the importance of fast-growing plants which will
bring early and certain revenue. The district you mention
js excellent.

VARIOUS QUESTIONS (D. H. S. .S.).— There is really
very little dilterence in value between tarred twine and
shreds for securing fruit trees to walls ; but twine is,
of the two, likely to cause more injury to the trees, for
if it is tied rather tightly in the fljst place and not looked
to in a few months' time, it is likely to cause injury by
cutting into the branches. Narcissus pallidus would
probably grow under Yew trees in places where the shade
is not very dense. It is, however, a matter for experiment.
The plant does deteriorate in some gardens, as you suggest,
especially when planted in permanent positions. The
common" double Daffodil and Emperor thrive among
St. John's Wort. -It would not, however, do to cut the
St! John's Wort down before the bulbs begin to grow;
rather, plant the bulbs in clumps and let them grow
through the Hypericum, cutting the latter down about
the end of March or early April. It is probable that your
soil is too cold and heavy for Spiraea Thunbergii. It
thrives most satisfactorily in a moderately light, well-
drained, warm loam, and flowers better after a warm
than after a cold summer. Aspect is not of great moment.
You cannot do much good by giving your Magnolias
chemical manures. You would do better to remove
some of the chalky soil from about the roots and replace
it with good, sweet loam into which a little peat and
leaf-mould has been mixed.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— TF. T.— The Bird Cherry (Piunus

Padus). A. S. F., Lynmcmth. — Rhododendron indicum

amoenum. Miss I. V. C, Hants. — Amelanchier alni-

folia. Mrs. H. T. B., Bromyard. — Sedum roseum.

./. O. E., Blairgowrie. — Pulmonaiia officinalis. G. D.,

Poole. — Prunus Padus (the Bird Cherry).

NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY.

FOK the flrst time in the history of this society a spring
show of Roses was held this year. The exhibition took
place on May 1 in the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall
at Vincent .Square, and by a general consensus of opinion
it was considered a great success. .\11 of the exhibits
were competitive, and competition was keen in most of
the classes. Throughout the afternoon the hall was
thronged with visitors, all deeply interested in this flrst
spring show of the Queen of Flowers.

Nurserymen's Classes.

Class 1, for a group of pot Roses, comprised the finest
groups in the exhibition. The flrst prize and gold medal
fell to the lot of Messrs. Paul and Son, The Old Nurseries,
Cheshunt, who arranged a superb collection of such
varieties as J. B. Clark, Marquise de Sincty, Cherry Ripe,
Mrs. Aaron Ward, Mme. Edmi^e Metz and Mme. Segond
Weber as a groundwork, arising from which were weeping
standards of Lady Gay, Cuckoo's Mate and Minnehaha,
with columns of Dorothy Perkins and Excelsa in the
background. The second prize went to Messrs. Hobbies.
Limited, Norfolk Nurseries, Dereham, for a massive
group of ramblers and weeping standards, which, unfortu-
nately, were much overcrowded. Two trained speci-
mens of Tausendsehon, profusely flowered, were among
the best things in the show, but were somewhat lost
in this overcrowded group. Mr. A. Turner, Slough, was
third.

In Class 2, for a group of pot and cut Roses, Messrs.
A. J. and C. .\llen, Eariham, Norwich, won the first prize
in keen competition. The weeping standards of Excelsa,
Dorothy Perkins and White Dorothy were all that could
be desired. Second, Messrs. B. R. Cant, Old Rose
tiardens, Colchester, whose group contained the showy
.Austrian Yellow and a new climbing Rose named Sweet
Pea. Third, Messrs. William Cntbush and Son, Highgate,
N., for a group in which the Polyantha Roses Jessie and
Mrs. F. W. Flight were much in evidence.

There was keen competition in Class 3, for a group of
cut Roses in a space 20 feet by 3 feet, resulting in equal
firsts and silver medals for Messrs. G. Mount and Sons,
Limited, Canterbury, and Mr. G. Prince, Oxford. Mr.
Prince's ramblers were remarkably fine, and Rayon d'Or
and Lady Hillingdon were used with telling etfect. Messrs.
Mount's ramblers were not good, but this was more than
compensated for by the superb collection of Sunburst,
Richmond, Mrs. Herbert Stevens and Mrs. John Laing.
all shown in the height of perfection. The third prize
was won by Messrs. Benjamin R. Cant, Old Rose Gardens,
Colclicster. Silver Moon, a large white single, was much
admired in this group.

In Class 4, for eighteen standard Roses, twelve varieties,
the flrst prize and' silver-gilt medal were won by Messrs.
Paul and Son ; second, Mr. .\. Turner, Slough.

Messrs. Paul and Son secured the first prize and were
the only exhibitors for nine weeping standards in pots.
The same flrm was flrst for Dwarf Polyantha Roses in
pots ; second, Mr. A. Turner.

Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons, Newtownards, were
awarded the flrst prize and gold medal for nine pots of new
Roses. Two superb novelties from this firm received
gold medals, and will be found in the list of new Roses.
The same exhibitors were flrst for twelve blooms of new
Roses.

Cut Blooms in Exhibition Boxes.

In Class 8, for thirty-six blooms in not fewer than
twenty-four varieties, the first-prize eoUection from Messrs.
B. R. Cant aroused the admiration of all who saw them.
.\mong the best blooms were Bessie Brown, Mrs. E.
Mawley, Claudius, Souv. de Pierre Notting, Suzanne
Marie Rodocanachi, William Shean and Coleestria. There
was no second prize awarded.

.Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons were flrst for eighteen
blooms, followed by Mr. G. Mount.

There were no entries in the class for twelve blooms of
Marfichal Niel.

AM.iTEUEs' Classes.

For a group of pot Roses in a space of 40 square feet,
the flrst prize and gold medal were secured by Mr. J. Brown ,
Longfleld, Heaton Mersey, Manchester, with a remark-
ably well-grown collection, including Mme. Ravary,
Mrs. R. G. S. Crawford, Mrs. John Laing and Richmond,
backed with pot ramblers. The plants were healthy and
well flowered, and the group was in every way a credit
to this exhibitor.

For a group of cut Roses 4 feet by 3 feet, Mr. Gordon
Clark of Leatherhead secured the first place and a silver-
gilt medal for a meritorious group, Mr. H. R. Darlington,
Potter's Bar, being a good second.

Mr. Darlington was first for six blooms in not fewer than
four varieties, with The Bride, Bridesmaid, Dean Hole
and Souvenir de President Carnot.

For si.x blooms of any one variety, the first place was
secured by Mr. C. S. Gordon Clark, Leatherhead, with
a fine half-dozen of Fran Karl Druschki.

"For a basket of cut Roses, Mr. Conway Jones of
Gloucester was a capital first ; Mr. J. Brown, Heaton
Mersey, second. Mr. Brown was first in a similar class
for any number of varieties, and again for five distinct
varieties in vases.

For a vase of cut Roses, open to ladies only, Miss West,
Wray Park. Reigato, was flrst with a flnc vase of Rich-
mond. Mrs. Courtney Page, Enfleld, was second with
Sunburst.

^fe^_

^g^*^-^«-

GARDEN.

^i^&I^Sf

No. 2165.— Vol. LXXVII.

May 17, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes of the Week

CORKi:SPONUENCE

The Dropmorc Aii-
chusa as a pot plant

Wallflowers without
fragrance . .

Davidia involucrata

flowering at Kew

Prizes for the Best

KocK Gardens . .

Forthcoming events..

TREES AND ShRCPS

The upkeep of gar-
den hedges. .

liilEENHOUSE

(t rowing Cyclamen
from old corms . .

Annuals for gieen-
house decoration
KosE Garden

Some diseases of the
Rose

N'ew Rose Mrs. Forde

Treatment of Roses
with unripened
wood

237

239
239
239

239
239

240
240

241
242

Flower Garden

Daffodil notes . . 242
Spring flowers at

Wisley .. .. 243
Border Carnations

in New Zealand. . 244
Some good border

Thalictrums . . 244

Gardening for Beginners
How to increase her-
baceous Phloxes
from cuttings . . 245
How to grow Vege-
table Marrows . . 245

Oakdenino of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 24fi

For Northeni gar-
dens 246

Spraying Trials at

Wisley 247

PosD Weeds and

copper Sulphate. . 248
Kitchen Garden
Seasonable notes ou
vegetables . . . . 243

IKiXi U ST RATION B.

A Pear tree in Cumberland which, though blown over,

continues to flower aud bear fruit 238

The premier alpinf^ Auricula Phyllis Douglas . . 240

Rose leaf and leaflet attacked by ** rast " disease . . 241

A badly cankered Rose stem 241

Rose leaf attacked by black spot 241

Rose Mrs. Forde 242

A beautiful water-side grouping of Polyanthuses. . . 243

A superb bloom of border Carnation Bookham White 244

How to increase herbaceous Phloxes from cuttings . . 245

Spraying trials at Wisley 247

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles arid notes,
bid he udll not be Tesponsihle for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, vrill be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that tJte price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright unll be treated with.

The Editor mil not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be tatcen as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE GARDEN will alone
he recognised as acceptance.

Oficet : 20, Taristook Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

Our Special Chelsea Show Number. — In

response to the request of numerous readers, who
much appreciated our Chelsea Show Number last
year, we shall next week publish a Special Double
Number containing an illustrated review of the
Royal Horticultural Society's Spring Show to be
opened at Chelsea on May 20. This issue will be
twice the ordinary size, and, in addition to the
report of the show, will contain a number of other
special features and a coloured plate of the new
Rose Danae. The price of this double number
will be twopence. As there is certain to be a large
demand, we advise those who require extra copies
to place their orders well in advance.

Silver-Leaf on Portugal Laurel. — Numerous
specimens of Peaches, Plums and Nectarines
attacked by silver-leat have been sent us for inspec-
tion from various parts of the United Kingdom.
Not uncommonly this disease makes its presence
felt on the Portugal Laurel, and without doubt this
is a common seat of infection. Where silver-
leaf is present in Portugal Laurels, all infected
branches should be cut clean out and burnt without
delay.

An Interesting Annual Campanula. — As the

number of annual Campanulas is somewhat
limited, such an interesting one as C. macrostyla
should receive more attention than it does, and
one wonders why it is so little grown. The duU
purple flowers, with their curiously-veined markings
and prominent styles, make them very attractive.
It is quite hardy, and the seeds, which can be
purchased qtiite cheaply, should be sown now
where the plants are intended to flower.

Fruit Prospects for 1913.— Judging by the
monthly agricultural report just published by the
Board of Agriculture, the prospects for fruit this
year are good. Blossom nearly everywhere has
been abimdant, and in most localities severe frost
has not been experienced. In those districts where
frost did occur about the middle of April, it does
not appear to have done any considerable damage.
From observations that we have made in the
Eastern Counties, Plums have set well, notwith-
standing the biting east winds that were experi-
enced when the trees were flowering.

The Southern Heath. — .\ native of Spain and
Portugal, the Southern Heath, Erica australis, is
a delightful spring-flowering shrub. It is one of
the taller-growing species, the bushes ranging
from 3 feet to 6 feet high, with rich rosy red
flowers, brighter than those of the Mediterranean
Heath, from which it also differs in being looser
in habit. As it is not perfectly hardy, choose a
sheltered spot for the plants, and protect them
during severe weather with Bracken or similar
light material. When only one or two plants are
grr.wn, a good position for them is the base of a
warm south or south-west wall. E. australis has
stood unharmed now for several winters in a large

sheltered bed near the Broad Walk at Kew.
During April and early -May the flowers are best.

Dwarl Brooms for the Rock Garden.— Few

plants are more attractive at the present time
with their wealth of blossom than the dwarf
Brooms, such as Cytisus Ardoinii, C. Beanii and
C. kewensis, all of which are excellent plants for
the rockery, and it space permits them to ramble
about over the stones, they present a charming
effect. But if the rock garden is small, the space
for them is limited, so that as soon as they have
done blooming the wood that has flowered should
be cut back to within an inch or so of the previous
year's growth, particularly the last two named,
as they are of a more rambling nature than C.
Ardoinii. This pruning will not in any way
prevent them from blooming the following year.

A New Spraying Mixture. — On May 6, Professor
Maxwell-Lefroy of the Royal College of Science
and Messrs. Merryweather conducted an extensive
experiment in Richmond Park for the purpose
of demonstrating the value of lead chromate as a
substitute for Paris green for killing various leaf-
eating caterpillars. The trees selected for the
experiment are situated within a short distance of
Ham Gate, and from what is known as Ham Cross
Plantation. The group contains some 370 trees,
which are about eighty-eight years old and about
forty-flve feet high. Last year they were defohated
by caterpillars, and caterpillars have appeared
again this year. Five kinds are at present feeding,
two of the most destructive being Tortrix viridana
and Cheimitobia brumat-i. The mixtture used
consisted of 50 per cent, lead chromate, 25 per
cent, sort soap, 2 per cent, gelatine and the balance
water. One pound of this was then mixed with
thirty gallons of water and applied by one of
Messrs. Merryweather's petrol spraymg-machines.
Professor Maxwell-Lefroy has used this insecticide
in India with considerable success, and says that
it is as great as a deterrent as a poison.

Orchids in Ants* Nests. — As to the reason
why certain Orchids find a congenial home in ants'
nests, a note in the May issue of the "Orchid Review"
by " Rodway " in the case of Oncidium altissLmum
is suggestive. After giving a graphic accoimt
of an experience in obtaining this plant, he remarks ;
" On the fork of a tree the Orchid had found a
congenial habitat, where it grew and flourished
for years, developing a great mass of roots to be
occupied by the immense horde of ants, who,
in return for house accommodation, undertook to
keep off the enemies of the Orchid, of which the
cockroach was one of the most inveterate.
Is not this one of the reasons why the ants are so
ready to take up their abode among the Orchid
roots ? Where its food was to be found the cock-
roach would certainly come, and the ant as certainly
find its prey." The benefit may be mutual, and
the roots of the Orchid may provide a suitable
nesting-place for the ants, as is certainly the case
with Schomburgkia and Diacrium,

238

THE GARDEN.

[May 17, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

A Crippled Pear Tree. — This fine old tree IS
this your a mass of bloom, in spite of the fact that
several years ago it was blown down. I believe
it usually crops very well. It is in a fi*;Id under
the shelter of a fell on Lord Muncaster's property
in Cumberland. — Mary C. Fair.

Calceolaria Clibranll. — Extensive use is
made of this beautiful Calceolaria in the
greenhouse at Kew, where it is just now greatly
admired. In one part of the structure a semi-
circular group arranged on the floor consists of
plants from 3 feet to 4 feet in height and as much
through, while in another part a number of smaller
examples testify to its value when grown in this
way. A notable feature of this Calceolaria is its
graceful habit and soft yellow colour. — H. P.

Tulips Growing in Grass. — The foilowmg note
may be of service to Mr. Jacob, and at the same time

Garden Clubs. — Pleasant it is to see by my
friend the Rev. Joseph Jacob's recent article
in The Garden, " An Amateur Country Garden
Club," page x., issue April 5, that our two
countries are awakening almost simultaneously
to the benefits and delights sure to follow such
special organisings of amateurs as these. Such a
club on this side of the water was started twelve
years ago by a group of women deeply interested
in gardening in the suburbs of Philadelphia,
suburbs, without doubt, the most beautiful in this
coimtry, and often given the high compliment
of the phrase " English-looking " ! For some
years this garden club went its way alone. Lately,
however, in the great gardening fever sweeping
over this land, numbers of other garden clubs
have arisen in various places with memberships
of women, sometimes of men and women, ranging
in numbers from a very little garden club in New
Jersey, who whimsically call themselves " The
Nine of Spades," to a great Connecticut garden
club of 200. It is impossible to over-estimate
the good that these clubs may do in the highest

A PEAR TREE IN CUMBERLAND WHICH, THOUGH BLOWN OVER, CONTINUES TO

FLOWER AND BEAR FRUIT.

of some interest to readers of The Garden in
general. A batch of Tulipa sylvestris was planted
here (Ken View, Highgata) in grass under an Oak
tree about nine or ten years ago. The first three or
four years the plants did very well, but latterly they
have dwindled in vigour and fioriferousness, until
this year only four flowers put in an appearance,
two of these being rather small. It is ordy fair to
add that no help or encouragement has been given
the bulbs since they were planted. They have
not been touched in any way. There is no doubt
that the drip from the tree whenever rain fell and
the exclusion of the sim by the dense foliage have
militated tremendously against their success.
In fact, I think they can be said to have made a
brave fight to hold their own by yielding four
scapes this time ; for it has been impossible for them
to have had any ripening worth speaking about
under a tree, added to which have been the
continual splashings from all rains. Grown in
grass in the open I can believe this variety would
succeed quite well. — C. Turner.

interests of gardening in .America, for the clubs
are made up of people of intelligence and taste,
people who read, who travel ; discriminating and
serious amateurs. The Garden Club of Philadelphia
has sent out invitations to each of the sixteen
clubs of America to a meeting for considering
the afl^liation of all the garden clubs into a
national one, the object of this plan being the
exchange of plans for yearly programmes of meet-
ings, papers, speakers and, above all, for the vital
thing of which Mr. Jacob speaks — the openiag of
gardens of members ot one club to those of all
other clubs. In my experience of the meetings
of the Garden Club of Michigan, the one of sixty
members with which I happen to be associated,
each meeting seems more delightful than the ones
past. Enthusiasm runs high, and is applied, not
wasted. If any of your readers care to see our
by-laws, I will send them with pleasure. — (Mrs.)
Francis King, Orchard HoziSf, Alma. Michigan.

How to Grow Saxifraga burseriana. — I am

very much interested in the keen correspondence

elicited by " Alpinist's " questions as to S. burseri-
ana, and especially to see that my experience of
the plant in Nature seems to be generally borne
out in the diverse conditions of culture. The
essential danger, in hot, dry situations, is that
of uncongenial frizzling, whereas with perfect
drainage, good soil and underground watering,
there is no doubt that the plant should prove safe
in even the most extreme development of the
" open situation " that is recommended. I am
particularly glad to find that Mr. Homibrook
endorses my opinion and takes up my case. All
who have seen his garden well know the value
of his horticultural work and advice, and experience
of a plant at home (such as increasing years are
bringing me) does certainly give great guiding-
lines along which to go in culture, so long as those
lines are not followed in any minute, slavish, or
pettifogging spirit of mere imitation. I wish
" Alpinist " could see the tiny burserianas on
my cliff, which never gets any sun at all. Single
rosette cuttings of Magna and Gloria, tucked into
crevices two seasons since, have now from six to
eight rosettes apiece, each one of which can faith-
fully be counted on to emit a flower. — Reginald
Farrer.

Mr. Farrer's notes on Saxifraga burseriana

in The Garden for April 26, page 202, will be read
with interest by every cultivator of this fine plant.
Personally, I have no knowledge of this species
in its natural habitat, although I enjoy and appre-
ciate the information this distinguished collector
furnishes at first hand. I fear, however, there is
real danger in translating this knowledge too
literally in practice, and we can easily become
mere copyists ; whereas the value of original travel
in disclosing the actual conditions under which a
plant grows naturally cannot be other than an
approximate guide for an exotic in cultivation,
and it does not follow that because S. burseriana
prefers or frequents some sunless gorge in an alpine
valley that it will refuse to grow in a sunny position
here, and herein lies the divergence disclosed.
That it will grow and flourish in most aspects may
readily be proved by anyone who sets himself the
task to master the situation : but I contend that
S. burseriana discloses its highest beauty in an
open, sunny spot, free from any and every form of
overhead shade. Soil and situation are of greatest
moment, and in proof of this, on a natural chalky
soil, I have had it give no more trouble than
Aubrietias, where, beyond the bi-yearly top-dressing,
in September and again in spring, it had no further
attention beyond an occasional soaking of clear
water in an abnormally dry season. Undoubtedly
the soil was responsible for this result, and I find
that the great majority of rock and alpine plants
commonly cultivated appreciate lime in the form
of chalk, as, apart from its chemical action, it
appears to part less readily with its moisture in
summer, while in winter it is relatively warmer
and drier than other soils. In the same issue of
The Garden to which I have already referred,
on page 211 Mr. Hyland comments on the
behaviour of Phlox setacea, but I feel sure, were
he to use chalk in equal quantity with his present
soil, he would modify his treatment of this fine
species and assign it the position it undoubtedly
merits in Mr. Farrer's list of the fifty best alpines.
I would have little faith in an alpine that requires
to be thoroughly watered every day when in full
bloom, for plants of this character have little garden
value, and, so far as my experience goes, Phlox
setacea is not of their number. — Thomas Smith,
Coombe Court Gardens, Kingston Hill, Surrey.

May 17, 1913.]

THE GAKDEN.

239

The Dropmore Anchusa as a Pot Plant.— I

was pleased to see the note by Mr. E. Smith on
page 227 of last week's issue on this subject. I
have grown this beautiful plant in pots for several
years, andean endorse all that he says about it. — B.
Wallflowers Without Fragrance.— May I be
allowed space to enter a protest against the tioral
committee of the Royal Horticultural Society
granting an award of merit to a Wallflower in which,
as described on page 235 of your issue for last week,
" the true Wallflower fragrance is quite lacking
in the plant " ? In common with many other
Fellows of the society, I have hitherto regarded
the award of merit as a sort of hall-mark of excel-
lence, denoting that the plant to which it is granted
is either an advance on existing varieties or an
entirely new species. But a Wallflower without
the characteristic fragrance is surely neither of
these. So far as I could see, the variety under
notice had nothing to commend it. The colour
was certainly one that few would care to have
in their gardens when so many beautiful and
fragrant Wallflowers are obtainable. It is human
to err ; but if the floral committee of the premier
society in the world are going to confer awards
of merit on such flowers as this, one's faith in
their judgment will be badly shaken. Their aim,
and that of everyone else who wishes to forward
floriculture, should be to foster fragrance, before
all else, in those flowers of which it is a delightful
characteristic. Raisers have already thrust upon
' us scentless Roses and Sweet Peas, and now,
backed up by the Royal Horticultural Society,
we are to have scentless Wallflowers ! — F.R.H.S.

Davidia involucrata Flowering at Kew. —

Tra\*ellers in Central and Western China have sung
the praises of this Chinese tree when in flower so
frequently that the fact of its being now in flower
at Kew, though only represented by a solitary
flower, is worth recording. To Messrs. James
Veitch belong the credit of first flowering the tree
in this country at their Coombe Wood Nursery iji
May, 1911, from seeds collected by their traveller,
Mr. E. H. Wilson, and sown in April, 1901.
Previous to this, in 1906, a plant flowered in France
with M. Maurice de Vilmorin at Les Barres. This
tree was raised from seed received from Abbe
Farges in 1897. The tree flowering at Kew is
also from this source, M. Vilmorin presenting it
as a small plant in 1901. In the hope of inducing
the plant to grow and flower quicker, it was planted
when large enough in the centre of the Himalayan
House. The Davidia, however, is a perfectly hardy
tree, there being at least a dozen specimens grow-
ing outside in various parts of the Gardens. It is
apparently a fairly fast-growing tree, the appear-
ance, particularly the foliage, suggesting a Lime
tree. The average height of the trees in China
is given as 40 feet to 60 feet. The inflorescence is
pendulous, produced on the small side twigs or
spurs. The attractive character of the tree lies
in the two creamy white bracts, in the centre of
which, arising from where they join at the base,
are the stamens. An interesting point about
these two bracts is that they are unequal in size,
one being about double the size of the other, the
larger 4J inches long by 2J inches wide, the smaller
2j -inches long by 2 J inches wide. The bracts
on the trees in China are much larger than this,
so no doubt as the trees increase in size in this
country the inflorescences will be larger. The
Davidia belongs to the Natural Order Cornaceae,
coming next to the American Nyssa trees. In
tlie bracts there is a resemblance to Cornus
Nuttallii.— D. A.

PRIZES FOR THE BEST
ROCK GARDENS.

During the next week or two, rock gardens in
most parts of the country will be at their best.
From letters that we are constantly receiving, we
know that a great many owners take a keen
interest in these, and their gardeners, in most
instances, are also alpine enthusiasts. For some
weeks past we have published particulars of prizes
that we are offering for three photographs of the
best rock garden, or portions of a rock garden,
and these details will be found below. We hope
as many of our readers as possible will enter this
friendly competition, and thus allow others to see
what beautiful effects can be obtained by a well
planned and planted rock garden.

First prize : Five Guineas, or a Silver Cup of
that value.

Second prize : Two Guineas, or Books of that
value.

Third prize : One Guinea.

The competition is open only to the actual
owner of the rock garden, or to his or her gardener.
The object is to encourage good rock gardening,
and preference will, therefore, be given to those
rock gardens which show originality in design, and
where the plants depicted are well grown. It
should be distinctly understood that awards will
be made to the best rock gardens, and not neces-
sarily to the best photographs. The photographs
need not be taken by the competitor, who must,
however, in such cases have the written consent
of the photographer for their reproduction in The
Garden. The competition is subject to the
following rules :

1. Not more than three photographs of each

garden may be sent in by one competitor.

2. Each photograph must have the full name and

address of the competitor plainly written
on the back in ink.

3. Successful competitors shall furnish written

particulars of the rock garden forming the
subject of their photographs.

4. Glazed P.O. P. prints must be sent, and each

should be on a mount with not more than
half an inch margin.

5. All photographs must be sent to arrive at

The Garden Ofhces, 20, Tavistock Street,
Strand, W.C, not later than June i, 1913.

6. Unsuccessful photographs sent in for com-

petition will be returned if a sufficiently
stamped and addressed envelope or wrapper
is enclosed for the purpose, but no responsi-
bility will be taken for the loss or damage of
photographs submitted, although every care
will be taken to return them uninjured.

7. The Proprietors of The Garden reserve to

themselves the right to reproduce any
photograph sent in for competition.

8. The decision of the Editor will be final.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

May 20. — Royal Horticultural Society's Spring
Flower Show at the Royal Hospital Gardens,
Chelsea (three days).

May 21. — National Tuhp Society's Show at
Chelsea (two days). Devon County Show at
Barnstaple (three days).

May 27. — Rhododendron Show at the Royal
Horticultural Society's Hall (four days). Bath
and West and Southern Counties Society's Show
at Truro (five days).

TREES AND SHRUBS.

THE UPKEEP OF. GARDEN HEDGES.

A PART from the necessary clipping which
i\ is required to keep a hedge neat,

/ ' % there are other matters that require
^~^% regular attention if the hedge is to be
' * kept in the pink of condition. These

little matters are, unfortunately, often
neglected, and the hedges suffer in consequence.
A fertile source of trouble connected with hedges
is the growth of various weeds of both herbaceous
and shrubby character, which spring up about
the bases and ultimately create gaps. Grasses
of various kinds are disastrous to a good dense
bottom, and one of the most elementary conditions
regarding good hedge culture is to keep the bottom
free from weeds. Everyone must have noticed
the difference in strength between well-cleaned
and dirty hedges, yet the cleaning is often con-
sidered too much trouble. This is frequently
the case where farm and plantation hedges are
concerned, and the condition is not absent in
gardens, although the weeds may be of a different
character.

Bindweed creates a lot of trouble when it once
becomes established in a hedge, and this is perhaps
one of the commonest weeds found in garden hedges.
It is almost impossible to fork out the rhizomes of
the Bindweed from among the roots of the hedge,
but it may be eradicated by patience. The best
way to clean a hedge of this pest is to keep pulhng
up the young shoots when they are but a few .
inches long. By continuing this the plants are
gradually weakened, and eventually die out. It
is a tedious job, but well worth the trouble. A
boy could easily perform the work by looking over
the hedges once a week. The writer knows of a
dense Holly hedge which was being ruined by
Bindweed and was cleaned in this way. Couch
Grass and Nettles are other subjects that play
havoc with hedge bottoms. These are best dealt
with by forking out the rhizomes, and then keeping
all young ijrowths cut off regularly with the
hoe. Once such rubbish is removed, the hedge
improves in health in a remarkably short space
of time, and holes about the bottom begin to
fill up.

Brambles, Hops^ Honeysuckles, Elm suckers.
Bryony, Traveller's Joy and the Bitter Sweet arc
coarse-growing subjects that cause serious injury
to hedges, and whenever such are noticed they
should be removed at once, not left until they have
smothered a few yards of hedge before being
dealt with.

How to Fill Up Gaps. — Gaps about the bottoms
of hedges may be dealt with in a variety of ways.
Where there is room to insert a young plant, that
should be done ; but where this would be impossible,
branches should be trained across the opening.
Should such openings be used by animals, such as
dogs, cats and rabbits, strong stakes should be
driven in to prevent access, or if that is impossible,
wires should be fastened across, for if the animals
are able to use the gaps, there is little chance of
the branches growing up. When the bottom of
the hedge is very weak, it may sometimes be
strengthened by cutting a foot or so off the top,
thereby infusing more vigour into the lower parts.
In the same way a very wide hedge which is becom-
ing thin in places may often be improved by cut-
ting the sides in well. Such vigorous cutting is
best performed during late winter or early spring,
for then a full growing season is obtained, whereby

240

THE GARDEN.

[May 17, 1913.

the ugly look inseparable to a hard-pruned plant
is soon over.

Manuring. — Hedges which are showing signs
oi weakness may be rejuvenated by applying a
dressing of manure to the roots. Care must be
taken, however, to let the manure extend for at
least 2 feet from the centre of the hedge on either
side. Farmyard manure should be chosen whenever
possible, but bone-meal or fish manure may also
be used. The former should be spread over the
surface of the ground and be lightly forked
in, and the same remarks apply to bone-meal ;
but fish manure is best mixed in water and
given in a liquid state as follows : Take 7lb.
of the manure and mix it with thirty-six to forty
gallons of water, and apply in AprU and again in

July-

Holly and Thorn Hedges are often troubled
with aphides of various kinds towards the end of
June or July. Such attacks maybe dealt
with by syringing the hedges with a
nicotine or paraffin wash. -\s a rule,
if a hedge is syringed twice, at intervals
of a week or ten days, it is quite suffi-
cient to effect a remedy. More difficult
to deal with is the Holly fly, which is
responsible for the disfigurmg yellow
blotches which occur on Holly leaves
in so many parts of the country. The
blotches, or galls, are caused by the
larv£e, which feed and afterwards
pupate beneath the epidermis of the
leaves. The mature insects escape from
the galls about May and proceed to
lay eggs as the new leaves appear. By
syringing the hedges with a paraffin
or nicotine wash occasionally during late
April and May, many insects may be
killed ; while by spraying the young
foUage with a weak paraffin wash,
with a little infusion of Quassia chips
added, the leaves are made dis-
tasteful to the insects and fewer eggs are
laid.

Thin and Tall Hedges which have

become gaunt and are generally thin,
but otherwise healthy, and more par-
ticularly Thorn hedges, may be re-
juvenated by laying. This is done in
winter-time by cleaning all rubbish
from the bottom, then cutting each
stem three parts of the way through
and laying it down lengthwise, secur-
ing it to two or three strong stakes
driven into the line of hedge. This is
don» throughout the hedge. Rough
brushwood is cut away imtil the
hedge is of a uniform density, and
in the space of a year or two a vigorous hedge
results. In some districts garden and farm
labourers are very expert at this kind of work,
and competitions in hedge laying are held each
year somewhat after the fashion of ploughmg
matches.

Clipping Hedges. — In conclusion, it is very
necessary that hedges should be properly and
regularly clipped if they are to remain in good
condition. It does not so much matter whether
a hedge is clipped in June or August, providing
one clipping only is given ; but it must have that
clipping, and when hedges are kept very neat,
two clippings, one in June, the other in August
or September, are required. In some places even
Privet may require to be cut three times during
the season. D.

THE GREENHOUSE.

GROWING CYCLAMEN FROM OLD
CORMS.

IT is essential to give most bulbous plants
a resting period at some time during the
year. Cyclamen are, however, an ex-
ception to the rule, though this fact is not
generally known. Some growers certainly
have a good share of success by gradually
drying the corms for a time under various systems
best known to themselves. At the present time
many good gardeners treat the Cyclamen as an
annual, and throw the plants away after once
flowering. There is, and always has been, such an
uncertainty about growing on from old corms
that this is, no doubt, the reason so many have
adopted the annual system.

for an active and immediate growth. The course
to take now is to select the requisite number of
healthy plants that have just finished flowering.
Now comes an operation that looks most unnatural
and cruel, which will, no doubt, be looked on by some
with suspicion ; that is, to sharply jerk off all the
leaves by taking each singly with the finger and
thumb and giving a sharp pull, which will sever
the stalk at the union with the corm. Next knock
the plants out of the pots, shake every particle
of soil from the roots, and pot the conns in 3i-inch
or 4-inch pots, which must be clean and dry. Place
one large crock in the bottom and pot lightly, at
the same time shaking the soil well in among the
roots. A light diet is all that is necessary at this
stage, and a sandy loam, with the addition of a
little leaf-soU or peat, forms a nice compost. Give
the newly-potted corms a good watering with a
:' rosed can, and place them where there is a little
heat, at the same time close and shady.
A newly-started vinery or Peach-house or
mild hot-bed are all suitable places.
Almost immediately growth will com-
mence quite strong. The plants must
then be sprayed over twice daily, and
in a short time they will be sufficiently
well rooted to be potted into their flower-
ing pots. Soil that has been left over
from Chrysanthemum potting forms a
good mixture, with the addition of more
sand and peat or leaf-soil. From now till
October stand them in a shady, moist '
frame, water and ventilate carefully, also
spray twice daily till they are housed and
the flowers commence to show, when
overhead spraying must cease. There
must be many who have old corms at
the present time ; and if a few are grown
on as described, a rich harvest of bloom on
well-foliaged plants will be the reward
during months of the year when a little
warm colour is most cherished.

D. Lewis.
Totley Hall Gardens, Sheffield.

ANNUALS FOR GREENHOUSE
DECORATION.

Of late years the different forms of
Nemesia have come largely to the front,
not only for the embellishment of the
outdoor garden, but also, when grown in
pots, for the decoration of the greenhouse
or conservatory. Anyone at all sceptical
of their value for pot culture would have
had an eye-opener at the meeting of the
Royal Horticultural Society on April 15
in a large group of the different forms
Cyclamen are so useful in winter as cut flowers 1 shown by Messrs. Veitch of Chelsea. The usual
for table decoration, especially the salmon shades, : method of growing Nemesias in pots is to have
and nothing can beat them for creating a brilliant j more than one plant in a pot, and the result is not
show in the greenhouse, or good specimens for ' always a pleasing one. They may in this way
rooms, that a little experimenting is well worth ' flower profusely, but the plants have always a

THE PREMIER ALPINE AURICULA, PHYLLIS DOUGLAS,
SHOWN BY MR. C. F. FAULKNER AT THE NATIONAL
AURICULA society's SHOW (NORTHERN SECTION).

the labour. When the plants have finished bloom-
ing, if one is knocked out of the pot it will be found
that the roots round the side are quite active,
and that the growing point or each is very
prominent. Now shake off all the soil and
e-xamine the base of the corm, and numerous strong
young roots from a quarter of an inch to half an
inch long will be found ready to strike down into
the soil in search of food. A corm on examination
the other day was found to be emitting thirty
young roots ; this strongly suggests that there
must be no drying off, but encouragement given

crowded appearance, and, furthermore, where a
certain amount of variation exists, the masses of
flowers have a somewhat patchy look.

In the case of those referred to, only one plant
was grown in each pot (a 5-inch one), and the
specimens so obtained were as near perfection as
possible. Each plant had been stopped two or
three times, and this mode of treatment proved in
every way satisfactory. In order to obtain flower-
ing examples thus early in the season, the seed
should be sown in the autumn, and the resultant
plants treated much as the first batches of

May 17, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

241

Schizanthus are ; that is, grown in a light position,
with plenty of air during the winter, but at the
same time keeping them quite free from frost. An
excess of moisture must at that season be avoided,
but, at the same time, they should not be allowed
to become dust dry. If shifted into their flowering
pots about the middle of February, the young
plants will, with the return of spring, have made
rapid headway. An important featm'e in con-
nection with these Nemesias — and, in fact, with
many other annuals — is that, by varying the time
of sowing, a succession of flowers is kept up for a
lengtliened period. Another point is the extreme
variability which now exists among them, not only
in the colovu' of their blossoms, but also in the
size thereof.

The small-flowered class, usually referred to as
the Gem section, are remarkably neat in growth
and profuse in flowering. Of coloured varieties we
have White Gem, Yellow Gem and Blue Gem, this
last being, I think, the more generally admired.
The flowers of this are of a soft Forget-rae-not blue,
a charming tint, and one which is at a little distance
difficult to verify.

The varieties of the grandiflora strain cover a
wide range of colour, the various golden, orange
and mahogany tints being very striking, and
unusually attractive to the fair sex by reason of
their being now such fashionable colours. Besides
these, the scarlets, carmines cmd crimsons are equally
showy. Considering that seed, even of the best
forms, can be obtained so cheaply, and by growing
the plants singly a very small amount will go a
long way, the pot culture of Nemesias, though
now largely carried out, should be considerably
extended.

Schizanthus. — The main batches of these will
be by now in flower, and a grand effect they have in
the greenhouse when at their best. The distincti\'e
markings of the blossoms of many of them have
led to their popular name of Butterfly Flowers,
which is cprtainlv a very appropriate one. The

.-■ 'Sk

•^gprL./^'

different
forms of Schi-
zanthus may
be grown in
various ways.
In the first
place, good
bushy ex-
amples of
some of the
more compact
varieties may
be grown in

5 - in ch or

6 - inch pots,
while taller
specimens of
the stronger
kinds are ex-
ceedingly use-
ful where the
scheme of
decoration is
on a bolder
scale. Besides
this, the Schi-
zanthus is a
valuable
basket plant,
and in this
way the large
overhead

masses of flowers show it in a very favourable
light.

Clarkias. — Treated as the Schizanthus the first
flowers of the Clarkias- are now open, and under
favourable conditions a succession of bloom will
be kept up for a long time. Until the last few
years the Clarkias were but little grown in pots,
but the advent of those delightful forms with
blossoms of different shades of salmon and scarlet
has led to their extended cultivation.

Mignonette. — The delicious fragrance of its
blossoms renders the Mignonette a universal
favourite, and imtil its outdoor flowers can be
obtained it is always appreciated in the greenhouse.
Sown in autumn, the main point in its culture is to
keep the plants growing very slowly, but as sturdily
as possible, till the spring. In order to do this,
plenty of lialit and air. with immunity from frost,
is essential. H. P,

A BADLV

C.\NKERED ROSE
STEM.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

ROSE LEAF AND LEAFLET ATTACKED
"rust" DISEASE.

SOME DISEASES OF THE ROSE.

[Continued from page 227).

Black Spot. — The illustration shows admirably
the spots or blotches made by the fungus Acti-
nonema rosae on Rose foliage. The branching
threads of a dark colour growing inside the leaves
and radiating from a common centre may be easily
seen with a lens or even with the naked eye. The
spores are distributed by rain and wind or on
msects' feet, and soon cause the spread of the
disease, especially when the plants are in a closely-
confined place. Very quickly, when the attack
is a bad one, the leaves fall and the trees become
almost defoliated. Hybrid Perpetuals perhaps
suffer most. In this disease the fungus passes
the winter on the fallen leaves or those left on the
Roses in mild winters, from which infection spreads
in the spring. The collection and burning of
these is one method apparently called for, and

spraying with Bordeaux mixture from time to time,
say, at three or four weeks' intervals, beginning
about the end of April or the middle of May.

Rust. — This disease is much more prevalent,
as a rule, on Briars than on other Roses, and does
perhaps less real harm than those already alluded
to. It is caused by the fungus Phragmidium
subcorticatum, and its first appearance is quite
early in the season, in the form of bright orange
masses of spores bursting through the bark. They
leave cankerous-looking spots on the stems, and,
being carried to the foliage, attack it, producing
orange or brown and in autumn black spots on the
under surfaces of the leaves. These spots are
small masses of spores, for the fimgus is out of
reach inside the leaves. Something may be done
by spraying with Bordeaux mixture or with a
rose red solution of potassium permanganate in
the spring at the time the stem stage is about ;
but the main thing to do is to destroy the dead
leaves on which the black spore masses occur in
autumn as soon as possible, and so prevent the
inlection in early spring, which comes only from
these black spores. This fungus is very common
on Dog Roses in our hedges, unlike the two
mentioned before.

Canker, — In canker we have a stem disease, in
which the tissues of the bark down to the cambium
are destroyed by a fungus called Coniothyrium
Fuckelii, and a sort of alternate development of
callus and destruction of it by the fungus goes on
until a large, gaping wound with irregular, thickened
edges is produced on the stem. The fungus gains
entrance by a wound, and the canker first appears
as a purplish dead area on the bark. Th.it is the
time to deal with it effectively, and it calls for a
surgical operation. Cut out (and immediately
burn) the affected part so as to prevent the spores
from escaping from the little black fungus fruits,
which soon appear on the spot. A wound such as
is made by aphides or by one branch pricldng
another is sufficiently large to permit of the entrance
of the fungus, but larger ones afford an easier

^ "

«l:

'4

W

i^

ROSE ;.EAF ATTACKED BY BLACK SPOT.

242

I'HE GARDEN.

[May 17, 1913

entrancK, and all such made in pruning if over,
say, half an inch in diameter should be painted
over with either white or red lead paint (without
turpentine), or with a 2i per cent, solution of
Lysol. The climbers, especially perhaps those
lovely wichuraiana hybrids which in recent years
have graced our gardens, seem most prone to
attack. F. J. Chittenden.

NEW ROSE MRS. FORDE.

This new Hybrid Tea received the high award

of a gold medal at the recent spring show of

the National Rose Society. As

described in the report of that

show in last week's issue, the

blooms are pale blush in colour, of

great depth, conical shape, and

not without the precious gift of

fragrance. The varietv possesses a

vigorous and erect-growing habit.

It is to Messrs. Alex. Dickson and

Sons, Newtownards, Ireland, that

we are indebted for this promising

new Rose.

except about a hundred, which were got at the
end of December to complete the scheme of my
new garden. The two pillar Hlawathas before
mentioned were taken up and heeled in for three
weeks, as I wished to change their position. The
ramblers on the arches were not moved. The
sum of all this is that out of 900 Roses, mostly
dwarfs, only about a dozen are dead, ten of which
are among the new ones I planted late ; and the
inference I draw from the above facts, on which
I invite the opinion of your readers, is this : In
a wet season the wood does not ripen well and

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

T

TREATMENT OF ROSES
WITH UNRIPENED
WOOD.

Those of your readers who grow
Roses may be interested in the
following lacts and my attempt to
explain them. This house is situated
on the top of a hill about three
hundred feet above sea-level, three
miles from the coast and eight
miles south of Berwick-on-Tweed.
Lost winter was more or less mild,
with heavy gales and three short,
sharp frosts, the hardest being m
the first week in December, shortly
after my main Rosi -planting was
completed. It is hardly necessary
to tell your readers that we had a
very wet summer from the end of
May to the end of August. Sep-
tember was fine, though not warm,
and October was again wet.
November, however, proved an
exceptionally good " planting "
month. All my neighbours withm
a ten-mile radius are complaining
of the number of Roses, especially
ramblers, that have been killed
this winter. Every garden seems
to have lost dozens. I am glad to
say that mine are very healthy,
with the exception of twelve three
year old ramblers, two each of
Crimson Rambler, Dorothy Perkins
and Lady Gay growing on metal
arches. These, though not killed,
have been badly cut down, while
two contemporary Hiawathas which
were on pillars and twelve newly-planted pillar , the sap continues to run

ROSE MRS. FORDE, A NEW HYBRID TEA OF PALE BLUSH COLOUR
AWARDED A GOLD MEDAL AT THE NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY'S
SPRING SHOW.

ramblers of various kinds are absolutely intact

In November last 1 made some new Rose-beds
and remade all the old ones, which necessitated
the lifting and heeling in for about three weeks
of all the old plants, some two hundred odd.
About a hundred were brought from my former
home, forty miles south of here, and planted imme-
diately. All the rest were new plants, mostly
Irom the South ol France, Devonshire and Essex,
nnd were planted on arrival in November, all

If an early frost comes

and finds these sappy bushes, they are killed.
On the other hand, if the bushes have been lifted,
the flow of sap is checked, the wood becomes
comparatively dry and the frost has no eSect on
it. Am I to conclude that in order to save
one's Roses in a wet season they should all, and
especially the ramblers, be dug up and heeled in
during the month of November ? It seems
a laborious remedy, but it is better than losing the
plants. A Lady Amateur Rose-grqwer.

DAFFODIL NOTES.

HE outstanding feature of the London
Show on April 29 was the fine collec-
tion staged by the Rev. G. H. Engle-
heart. Not that it was so very out-
standing in itself. I have often seen
his groups when there was much
greater variety of type, for on this occasion, as
might be expected, the majority were Poets. I
have seen them composed of choicer and more
uncommon flowers, but I have
never before seen him stage one of
his accustomed white-robed collec-
tions in the annexe after Birming-
ham. The Lord High Daffodil-
maker has this season broken his
own records in length (from early
March till just upon May) and
lateness. I feel sure every Daffodil-
lover will congratulate him heartily
on this achievement, and, if they
had any say in the matter, would
unanimously vote him the Royal
Horticultural Society's gold medal,
which, it is almost incredible to
believe, he has never as yet had !
We who attend these Daffodil days
at Vincent Square have become
so accustomed to his wonderful
assemblages of lovely blooms that
we lose our sense of proportion in
our estimation of their value. We
forget that most likely when we
see them they are lacking some of
their choicest jewels, and that those
very flowers are possibly the pride
of other stands. Emerald Eye at
Birmingham, White Emperor and
St. Olaf at London are recent ex-
amples of what I mean. Suppose
some enthusiast got together a
collection of Engleheart Daffodils
like art committees do with the
pictures of some famous painter,
what a collection it would be ! If
arranged on an historical basis, an
epitome of the later days of seed-
ling-raising, or if upon merit, it
would, at any rate, be a close
contest if matched against the
world — a sort of Champion County
V. The Rest of England. He is
always telling me I am fond of
Latin quotations. Salve! magister.
I felt I must write what I have
just written. I now feel more tran-
quil and prosaic, so that I can call
readers' attention to a few of the
best varieties that were to be seen on
the different stands. First, Evange-
line, the beautiful Leedsii that 1
once called a white Homespun, but
which I have since corrected by saying I should have
said a " bicolor " Homespun. It is a grand plant, and
fully deserved its award of merit. Mr. H. D. Phillips
of Olton, a young and keen trade grower, who is
fast building up an enviable reputation for deliver-
ing " good stuff," was the cultivator of the blooms,
and they did him very great credit. It is a plant
that everyone should have, like Emperor and old
Barri conspicuus. Venetia, a fine long-stemmed,
cupped pure white triandrus hybrid, raised and
exhibited by Mr. Crantield, also received an award

May 17, 1913-]

THE GAllDEN.

243

of merit. These snowy flowers are extremely
lovely, but they are very tantalising — easy to
raise and flower, but so few with much constitu-
tion. It is a great prize when one comes across
one that is a good doer ; hence I am very glad
this particular one got an award. Size, 3^ inches
by five-eighths of an inch by i inch. Enterprise
(CartwTight and Goodwin) was a " useful thing."
It is a roundish flower, with a pale primrose perianth
and a fairly large eye, with greenish yellow centre
gradually suffusing to red. Size, 2} inches by
seven-eighths of an inch.

Sonata (R. H. Bath) was sho^vn in excellent form.
It is a " recurvoid " looking bloom, with a pleasing
greenish eye edged with a narrow band of red.
Size, 2^ inches by five-eighths of an inch. In
these days, when there are so many Poets very
similar, it is no small recommendation to say of
any one that it is distinct. Sonata is. It is
exceptionally lovely, too — goodness and good looks.

A Daffodil Holiday. — Most of us
do not think it much of a holiday
to rush about from show to show
and from garden to garden in our
anxiety to see all we can in the short
Daffodil season. So this is not what
1 mean. In the course of the afternoon
iif the 29th ult., I met Sir Arthur Hort
with a small box full of real wildings,
picked in a distant Pyrenean valley
exactly a week before. They were a
regular medley of quaint forms, some
quite " pallidus-prscoxy," others quite
" muticusy," the quaintest of all being
a sort of " length without breadth "
Ajax, I measured it and found the
trumpet to be i J inches long by half an
inch wide ! Sir Arthur had had a
holiday in the Pyrenees, and he very
kindly told me where one should go
if one wants to have a similar enjoy-
able experience — to Bareilles, an old-
world village four miles from the rail-
way station of Arreau. Someone may
think it worth while doing another
year. It is a fascinating idea : a week
where Daffodils grow like Daisies.

The Royal Horticultural Society's
Daffodil Year Book. — I am hard at

work on this book collecting material.
On the 29th ult. the Narcissus com-
mittee approved the voting list for
the lists of varieties most suitable for
various purposes. These will be on the
lines of those that are issued in the
National Sweet Pea Society's Year
Book, and should prove useful for reference.
Our Year Book will also contain reports of
the Royal Horticultural Society's London
Daffodil Show, together with a full list of all
the varieties that were staged there, and also
at the Midland Show at Birmingham in the
competitive classes. Among the other contents
there will be several articles of general interest,
lists of awards in 1913, descriptions of some of the
best of the novelties, and numerous illustrations.
I hope it will be issued early in August, and that
the price of the same for those who are not members
of the Royal Horticultural Societv will not be
prohibitive.

The Merodon. — Mr. stocks' paper in The
Garden for April 27 will have been read with
much interest. Without wishing to

in many places last spring and early summer.
I have an idea that the present inclement weather
may prove more effectual than Mr. Stocks' racquet
net ; but if neither of these has touched the
cause, then it will be well worth trying the water
method, which Mr. \V. Ponpart of our Narcissus
committee told me his sons, who carry on a large
cut-flower trade, had found very efficacious last
autumn. The mode of action is to steep all stocks
which are suspicious in large tubs of water for
three days, at the end of which time, when the
bulbs are taken out and the water drained off,
a deposit of merodons is found. The steeped
bulbs did not suffer, he said, in the least, and
flowers from them were as good as usual this
spring. Joseph J.\cob.

SPRING FLOWERS AT WISLEY.

The Royal Horticultural Society's gardens at
Wislev cont.iin much that is of interest at

the rocks, much in the same way as Ramondias
are usually arranged, forming rosettes on the face
of the rocks.

In the moraine we foimd a fine plant of Asperula
suberosa flowering well, while Cheiranthus Harpur-
Crewe, Parochetus communis, Cytisus kewensis.
Antirrhinum Asarina and Myosotis Rehsteinii
were other plants in the rock garden proper that
called for special mention. In a small circular bed
near the old rock garden, Gentiana acaulis was a
blaze of brilliant blue, and near the pond, not far
away. Polyanthuses provided a broad belt of colour
such as one is not often privileged to see.

In the woods we were much interested in a
fine little colony of Trillium grandiflorum roseum,
the largest-flowered variety of its class, some of the
blossoms measuring 6 inches in diameter. The
delicate blush rose colour of the blooms cannot
fail to charm those with artistic tastes, and it is
a fine plant for a damp, shady spot. Under

BEAUTIFUL WATER-SIDE GROUPING OF POLYANTHUSES IN THE ROVAL HORTICULTURAL
society's GARDENS AT WISLEY.

every season of the year, but it is during the
spring months, perhaps more than at any other
time, that the visitor \\'\\\ find numerous
plants that call for comment. This is emphasised
more than usual this spring, now that the immense
rock garden is getting clothed with alpine vegeta-
tion of many kinds. When visiting the gardens
on the closing day of .April, we found a vast quan-
tity of choice and well-grown plants. In the rock
garden, that gem of flowers, though one that many
find a diflScuIty in growing, Lewisia Tweedyi,
had just opened its first flower. There was a small
colony of plants, keeping company with L. Cotyle-
don, both being planted in an open position on a
slight mound, and in grit and leaf-soil with a

moisture-preserving top-dressing of granite chips,
unduly Not far away we found a fine little colony of Saxi-
Irighteu anyone, there seems to be very little doubt j fraga Grisebachii just coming into flower. These
that the fly was present in considerable numbers I were planted facing south-west in the cracks of

the Camellia bushes near by, Shortia galacifolia
was growing like the proverbial weed, forming a
large tuft more than a yard in diameter, and evi-
dently perfectly happy in its shady home. Near
by, the large stems of Liliumgiganteum were pushing
upwards, giving promise of a rare display of beauty
and perfume in later days. On a large, sloping
bank near the entrance we were much interested
in Narcissus Philippe Vilmorin, a beautiful white
variety, unusual on account of the great length of
the trumpet. Apparently it is but little known in
this country, but it is exceedingly beautiful, and
has proved a great favourite with visitors to Wisley
this spring.

In the glass-houses we found some of the finest
plants of Perpetual-flowering Carnations we have
ever seen, and in the adjoining house, and keeping
company with the show Pelargoniums, were magni-
ficent flowering plants of Schizanthus. Fellows

244

THE GAEDEN.

[May 17, 1913.

of the Society are fortunate in having such gardens
as these, where many valuable lessons in the cultiva-
tion of choice plants can be learned, and where the
whole staff is the very essence of courtesy.

BORDER

IN NEW

CARNATIONS
ZEALAND.

Useful Hints for Home Growers.
Doubtless we all at times wonder how our favourite
flowers prosper in distant lands. A letter recently
received from New Zealand's best-known and
most successful Carnation-grower answers this
question as regards his own hobby in a most inter-
esting manner, so interesting, indeed, that it would
be imfair not to give your readers the benefit of
his experience and methods.

The gentleman in question is Mr. H. A. Fox of
Wellington, and to those who do not know his
name I would like to intro-
duce him as a really great
Carnation specialist, and a
gentleman whose word can be
taken as a true and imex-
aggerated story of his flori-
culture. He is a firm believer
in the best that can be procured,
whether it be labour, compost,
or plants, and his collection of
border Carnations is thoroughly
irp to date. Each season he
imports the best novelties from
England, and seems to prefer
this process to layering his own
plants, even for the older sorts,
and the reason for this brings
out one of the most interesting
points of his letter. The layers
are sent out in the autumn, as
soon, indeed, as strongly rooted ;
but, naturally, a trying and
unstable voyage of nearly two
months, with its attendant
state of semi-starvation, gives
them a severe check. Now,
here comes the point — these
plants arrive and are planted
just before the solstice of the
Antipodean summer, and one
might imagine they would
make rapid progress and per-
haps bloom in the autumn, i.e.,
in February or March. But
they do not ; the check seems
to be just sufficient to hold them
back, so that they make a whole
year's root and grass growth
before flowering. The result is really wonderful ;
Imt before gomg into details let me give Mr. Fox's
methods of culture from the beginning.

In readiness for the plants the ground is trenched
2 feet deep. Very old horse-manure is used to
enrich the soil, with a sprinkling of superphosphate
in the bottom spit. When the plants arrive,
some time in December, they are put straight
into their flowering quarters and allowed to grow
without protection, except from wind and rain.
As the New Zealand springs are notorious for
furious wind-storms, some protection must be
afforded, and Mr. Fox secures this by means of

glass lights and some by oiled paper stretched over
lattice-work. Regarding these two coverings it
was found that the glass was the better in dull
weather, the paper in hot, the latter, naturally,
being cooler while still admittmg plenty of light.
As soon as these covers were on, light liquid stimu-
lants were started, weak natural manure frequently
being used.

By this time the plants, which have been develop-
ing for nearly a year, are mostly 18 inches in

of the whole show with a superb Mrs. J. L. Gibson.
This flower was one of eleven off the same plant
and exhibited at the same show. What thews
and sinews these plants must be endowed with
under such culture !

Disease seems to have a very small part in the
life of these horticultural giants, soft blooms being
the only trouble of consequence mentioned ; and
that seems to be something of a mystery to one
who has had no opportunity to investigate on the

diameter, with from eight to twenty main flowering j spot. Probably this state is brought about by
stems per plant ! These flowering stems are ! bees causing the flowers to collapse by hybridity.
from 3 feet to 3^ feet long and as thick as one's 1 The illustration is of a bloom of the new border
little finger. Disbudding is, of course, adopted, Carnation Bookham White, grown by Mr. Fox,
only the crown and the two lowest buds being | which as a border white he considers is without
allowed to develop. | equal, its dazzling whiteness and matchless form

And now for results, all of which Mr. Fox states
are absolutely correct. On one plant of Eros
twenty excellent blooms were open at one time.

proclaiming it to be the white par excellence. As
the flower was New Zealand grown, so were the
photograph and block New Zealand produced,
the former having been taken
by that well-known New Zea-
land florist, Mr. Lord of Welling-
ton, at the Nelson Show.

J. Douglas.
Great Bookham, Surrey.

A SUPERB BLOOM OF BORDER CARNATION BOOKHAM WHITE, GROWN IN

NEW ZEALAND.

and forty buds remamed after the disbudding
process mentioned above. Off two plants of
Mrs. Robert Morton, Mr. Fox had twenty-four
show blooms out on the same day, most of them
3^ inches tn diameter. ,Iohn Kidd carried flowers
up to 3J inches, while Linkman went one better,
a bloom staged at Nelson South Island) being
measured in front of competitors and exactly
touching 4 inches i Renown is a special favourite
with Mr. Fox, who says he had two flowers of
this 4 inches across and " were real champions."
But the giant of the lot was Bob Acres, which,
shown at Lower Hutt, a Wellington suburb.

urtains of cheese cloth or unbleached calico carried measured as it stood 4i inches, and a perfect flower

along the two sides of the beds, the ends remaining
open, and free ventilation ensured by keeping the
curtains 6 inches off the ground. As soon as colour
shows in the buds, all the beds are covered, some by

at that. At the chief show in Wellington Mr.
Fox carried all before him, wmning the £5 5s.
trophy for twelve blooms and the £2 2s. trophy
for twelve with own foliage, also champion bloom

SOME GOOD BORDER
THALICTRUMS.

The majority of Thalictrums are
most interesting on account of
their elegant foliage, which is
generally much subdivided and is
suggestive of the popular Adian-
tum on an enlarged scale. Thalic-
trum aquilegifolium purpureum
presents flowers that are of con-
spicuous beauty. They are borne
in giant heads, forming billowy-
like masses that surmount the
leaves and form commanding
objects in the border during June
and July. In the variety under
notice the flowers are coloured
deep mauve, and these are usually
succeeded by seed-pods that are
distinctly coloured a similar
shade. It is an easy subject to
grow in ordinary garden soil that
is well drained, and is propa-
gated by seed sown in spring,
the seedlings, when large enough,
being transplanted to nursery
beds in the open, thereby ensur-
ing strong plants to flower the
following year.

Two new Thalictrums from
Cliina are among the most
desirable of recent novelties. These are Delavayi
and dipterocarpum. They differ from the plant
already described, in that the individual flowers
are much larger and are arranged at wider
intervals on the elegant spikes. Delavayi is the
dwarfer plant, with pretty lilac-coloured flowers.
Dipterocarpum attains a height of 5 feet when
fully established, the flower-stems being extremely
gracaful, with the lightly-poised flowers of a bright
rose purple, to which the citron yellow anthers
form an admirable contrast. These Chinese
species enjoy an open, sunny position in any light
yet rich soil. They do not object to a partially-
shaded position, provided moisture is not excessive
in winter, as cold, wet soil starves and weakens them
to such an extent that they suffer in comparison
with those in more favourable positions.

Coombe Court Gardens. Thomas Smith.

May 17, 1913]

THE GAKDEN.

245

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO INCREASE HERBACEOUS PHLOXES FROM CUTTINGS.

THE usual way of increasing Phloxes is
by division. Of course, this is by far
the most expeditious, and one can
depend on having good plants the
following year ; but when we come to
compare the quality of the blooms with
those of plants raised from cuttings, then we must
leave the subject. The reason is obvious. In the
case of division we have simply a portion of an old,
partially worn-out plant, while from the cutting
we have a young plant full of vigour. For filling
bed? the plants raised from cuttings are far more

I. — A PHLOX CUTTING WITH THE LOWER
LEAVES REMOVED READY FOR PLANTING.

suitable in every way. The plants grow vigorously
and uniformly, both as to height and size of flower-
heads, and these are twice, or even three times,
as large as those from divided plants.

The Phlox is a most useful and popular flower,
becoming more and more so each year. This is
due largely to the great improvement which has
taken place in the colours and vigour of the plants.
As above statsd, there is no comparison between
the heads of bloom produced by plants raised from
cuttings a year old and those from old plants
or pieces of old plants. There are two seasons
which are suitable for rooting the cuttings —
spring and autumn. Personally, I prefer spring,
because we get the most vigorous cuttings full of
life at this season, while in the autunm the vigour
has naturally gone after the plants have been
flowering, and we have to depend on secondary
growth, too, for our cuttings. The weaker cuttings
will readily root and grow into good plants, but
there will be a lack of vigour as compared with the
spring-rooted plants.

How to Take Cuttings. — The process of rooting
the cuttings is a most simple one. I have foimd
nothing better than a simple packing-case, with
its bottom removed, and this set on good, sandy
soil. The soil should be 10 inches deep and pressed
firmly. Cover the surface with sand, and dibble
the cuttings in rather thickly, as shown in Fig. 2.

A sheet of glass should be placed over the case,
and this should be thinly shaded by a little lime-
wash to keep the strong sun from the cuttings.
On no account should the cuttings be allowed to
flag ; this would retard the rooting process con-
siderably. It is sm'prising how quickly these
vigorous cuttings will root at this season of the
year if properly attended to. The usual time is
three weeks ; this will be indicated by new growth
at the points of the cuttings. As soon as this is
observed, air should be admitted freely, and as soon
as it is seen that the cuttings stand the free admission
of air, the glass shijuld be removed entirely. There
should be no coddling. Grow the cuttings as hardy
plants should be grown from beginning to end.
There is nothing which fosters disease in hardy
plants so much as coddling. Some recommend
the propagating-case on warm manure. I do not
like this. Place it on a warm border which is
sheltered from winds. I think this is much better.
As soon as the cuttings are well rooted, transplant
to nursery beds of good soil. Give the plants
plenty of room to develop during the sumraqr months.
Fig. 3 shows the kind of plant to be placed in
the nursery bed. This is a sketch of an actual
plant rooted last autumn, and which has developed
several embryo buds at the base of the stem, just
ready to burst into growth. This would m;ike a
fine subject for autumn, planting in bed or border,
and such a plant would give a good account of itself
in the summer of 1914.

Phloxes are gross feeding plants, and resent drought
as quickly as any herbaceous plant I know ; therefore
an abundance of water and an occasional dose of
liquid manure will be of great benefit during thS
growing season. A. T.

HOW TO GROW VEGETABLE
MARROWS.

There are few more popular vegetables with
beginners in gardening than the Vegetable Marrow,
and in many country districts extraordinary
methods of cultivation are adopted. Size seems
to be the sole object, and with this end in view
the plants are gorged with liquid manure until
their flavour is sadly impaired. To get good,
sweet, medium-sized Marrows extraordinary prepa-
ration of the soil is not necessary. Just before
planting or sowing, a hole about eighteen inches in

3. — A ROOTED PLANT READY TO GO INTO
A NURSERY BED.

diameter and the same in depth should be made
for each plant, and with the bottom soil, which
must be well broken up, but left at the bottom,
some well-decayed manure ought to be mixed.
This will tend to keep the soil cool and moist
during the hot days of summer and autumn.
It is usual to put out plants which have been
raised under glass, and, if this is done, the end
of May will be quite early enough for planting.
But, contrary to what many amateurs suppose,
seeds may be sown outdoors where the plants are
to grow, and often give the best results. Where
this course is adopted, the sooner the seeds are
put in now the better. The dang;r with plants
raised tmder glass is that too often they have not
been sufficiently hardened off previous to putting
them outdoors, when they receive a severe check,
from which they rarely recover. Copious supplies
of water during dry weather are essential for
the well-being of the plants, and a sharp look-
out must be kept for black fly.

2. PREPARED CUTTINGS PLANTED IN SANDY SOIL IN A DISUSED PACKING-CASE

AND COVERED WITH A SHEET OF GLASS.

246

THE GARDEN.

[May 17, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Pleasure Grounds.

Erica carnea. — This spring-flowering Heath is
most useful for edging beds of shrubs, and usually
makes a good show from February onwards ; but
having now gone out of flowei, it should be cut over,
and if the plants have become straggly, they may
be taken up and replanted ; or if a compost of
sand and leaf-soil or peat is mixed up and worked
in among the plants, most of the branches or
growths will root freely into it, and they may be
divided and replanted in the autumn.

{{ibes. — Plants of this family present the most
graceful appearance when allowed to bloom on
the full length of the previous season's growth,
though I have seen them kept trimmed similar
to a cUpped Box or Yew. When the plants are
as large as their position warrants, I prefer to cut
them hard back after flowering, thus securing
long, free growths for blooming next spring.

The Flower Garden.
Annuals. — Where annuals were sown very early,
thinning should have been done before now; but
in many districts the wet state of the soil pre-
vented sowing till quite the middle of April. These,
hcjwever, should now be ready for thinning.
Unfortunately, in many instances annuals are not
thinned sufficiently, thereby losing a great deal
of their beauty and shortening the flowering period.

Wallflowers should now be sown on rather a
light piece of ground, and if it has been dressed
with a little wood-ashes and lime, so much the
better. This I have found to induce a much finer
rooting svstem, which is an advantage, as the
plants have often to be shifted dtu-ing the heat of
the summer.

Plants Under Glass.

Sweet Peas under glass are now blooming
profusely, and plenty of water and manure will
be necessary to keep' them up to the desired stan-
dard. Give a little shade during the day when
necessary, and keep the temperature down as
much as possible, thus retaining the colour and
substance in the blooms.

Begonia Gloire de Sceaux. — Cuttings of this
useful winter and spring foliage plant should
now be put in, using the young shoots that spring
from near the base of the plants. These are prefer-
able to the old flowering points, as they grow so
much stronger and make much larger leaves.

Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — Cuttmgs put in

early in April shoiild now be ready for removal
from the propagating-frame, selecting a shady
position for them near the glass. A further batch
of cuttings should now be put in, and the old stools
thrown away.

Euphorbia pulcherrima and jacquiniflora that
were placed in heat a few weeks ago should now
have made sufficient growth for the cuttings to
be taken off. As these are apt to bleed very much,
the cuttings should be placed at once in a pot
of very fine, dry sand, afterwards inserting the
cuttings singly in 2j-inch pots and plunging in
a propagating-frame with a fair amoiuit of bottom-
heat.

The Kitchen Garden.

Cauliflowers planted out of pots must be well
looked after if the weather is dry, as they take
some little time to get a good hold of the soil,
and before thev do this there is great danger of the
balls of soil becoming dry. Plants in frames or pots
that are turning in must be liberally supplied with
manure-water.

French Beans. — .^fter this date it is not neces-
sary to sow in pots or frames ; but to keep up a
regular supply, small batches should be sown in
the open ground at fairly frequent intervals,
bearing in mind that they go on cropping over a
longer period in the open ground than they do
under glass. Early batches that may be coming
through the soil should have pots placed over
them at night, should there still be signs of frost.

Potatoes. — Early Potatoes on borders are
growing apace, and after breaking up the soil
well it is advisable to keep it drawn up to the plants
almost daily, when, in the event of frost, it may
save them somewhat.

Later Batches should be hoed through as soon
as the rows are discernible, but not at a time
when there is a likelihood of frost, as I have often
seen much damage done where the soil has been
moved immediately beforehand.

Fruits Under Glass.

Watering. — .\t this season regular attention
must be parid to watering the borders of fruit-
houses. Where these are fairly shallow and well
drained, it is almost impossible to give too much
water, and certainly once a week water may be
given if the weather is hot. Where the borders
are not well drained, rather more discretion will
be necessary, and an examination of the borders
should be made before applying water, or stagnation
may result.

Feeding also is very essential, and though much
may be done with animal manure, it is to the
judicious application of artificial manures that
one looks for the best results. Trees or Vines
carrying heavy crops will take a fair amount of
manure, both animal and artificial, during the
growing season ; but yomig, free-growing trees or
freshly-planted Vines will, in most instances, get
sufficient nourishment from the newly-made
borders, and the application of much manure
in the young stage often ruins the constitution
of the recipients.

Hardy Fruits.

Disbudding. — Continue the disbudding and
thinning of Peaches and Nectarines as they become
fit, nailing or tying in the young growths as soon
as they are long enough. Walls sometimes keep
a lot of moisture from the borders, and where
the trees do not appear to be doing as well as they
might do, it may be found they are requiring
water, even though there may have been sufficient
rain to keep the trees in the open well supplied.

Trained Pears. — After these are nicely set I
make a practice of giving a thorough wash down
with the hose or garden engine, this removing all
the imperfectly-set fruits. If there is a heavy
set of fruit, the trees should be gone over, removing
a portion of the fruits, leaving tliose which in
the small stage appear most prominent and
Jikely to be in a good position for light and air,
a second thinning being given at a later date.
Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wobuni Place Gardens, Addles:one, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Sweet Peas. — Young plants should be examined
to see that all are taking to their supports. Some
cultivators now denude the plants of their tendrils,
so that the plants are entirely dependent upon the
support afforded by the tying material. The
utility of this mutilation 1 have as yet faUed to see.

Staking Carnations. — This operation must now
be taken in hand, or the flower-stems may get
broken over. Wire coil stakes are now the most
popular, and they certainly have the advantage
of being easily manipulated ; still, if the aim of
the gardener is to hide his art as far as possible,
then I opine that the coil wire stake is rather too
obtrusive, and I prefer Bamboo tips ; but every
man to his taste.

Planting Annuals. — Most of the annuals,
both hardy and half-hardy, may now be planted
out in prepared ground.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Mowing. — This work now demands unremitting
attention. As far as possible, the mowings should
be. allowed to remain on the lawn, and if in any
case they are unequally dispersed by the mower,
a turn with a Birch broom will put things right.
Of course, where games are being played it may be
imperative to have the mowings removed. In
such a case the utility of having a mower provided
with a grass box is seen ; such a machine, for
example, as the Caledonia.

Roiling must also be attended to, especially
where games are being played.

Clipping Edgings. — It seems common-place
to refer to such an obvious duty as that of keeping
edgings regularly clipped ; still, it is sometimes

postponed unduly, to the detriment of the whole
surroundings. Cannot someone invent edging-
shears with really secure handles ? Even those
with the bolt are not all they profess to be.

Damaged Trees. — It sometimes happens that
the stem of an ornamental tree receives damage
from a scythe or other sharp object, and as a conse-
quence bleeding ensues. This is especially the
case with resinous trees, such as the double-flowering
Cherries. Various remedies may be applied. A
good plan is to first smear the wound with Arch-
angel tar, then give a thick coating of grafting-
clay, and over this place a layer of moss and finish
with a bandage of binder twine.

Plants Under Glass.

Cannas. — These will now be growing apace,
and should have copious supplies of water at the
roots, with frequent syringings overhead. Being
gross feeders, they will be benefited by occasional
doses of liquid manure.

Top-Dressing Liliums. — Many Liliums. more
especially auratum and the varieties of lancifolium,
are much benefited by receiving a liberal top-
dressing, for which ample allowance should
be made at the time of potting. A mixture of
equal parts of dry cow-manure and fibrous yellow
loam in a rather lumpy condition suits the purpose
admirably. The top-dressing should not be
pressed too firmly, as the fleshy roots of the Liliums
revel in a rather porous medium.

Callas. — Except a retarded batch, these will
now be better in the open air, and it is a debatable
question whether they are better left in their pots
or planted out. Good results can be produced
by either system. Personally, I prefer the latter,
as by it the finest foliage — half the beauty of the
plant — is generally produced.

Fruits Under Glass.

Figs. — Except where fruit is ripening, fairly
moist conditions must be maintained, and on no
account must the trees be allowed to suffer for
lack of water at the root. If the root-run is
sufficiently circumscribed, trees swelling their
fruits will be benefited by frequent applications
of liquid manure.

Peaches. — The bearing shoots should have
their terminals shortened to about four inches,
to give more room to the succession shoots. In
houses where the fruit is stoned, the trees will
stand a minimimi temperature of 60°.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Training Wall Trees. — .\ttention will have to

be given to the nailing in of the young shoots
and of thinning and regulating the growth. Where
a leading shoot is making too luxuriant growth, it
should be trained slightly downwards to check
the flow of sap ; if, on the other hand, a shoot is
weakly, it should for the time being be trained
in an upward direction to encourage the flow of sap.
Thinning Stone Fruit. — .\pricots and Peaches
should have their fruits thinned to reasonable
proportions. The object should be to have the
fruits as equ.^lly distributed over the tree as
possible, yet it is well to secure, as far as possible,
the largest fruits. Badly-placed fruits should
be discarded as far as circumstances will permit.

The Vegetable Garden.

Vegetable Marrows. — Where they can have
the advantage of frames or hand-lights for a time,
this useful crop may now be planted out imder
conditions indicated on page 245.

Celery. — Where not already done, the trenches
must be prepared forthwith, and the width must
be regulated by the number of rows it is intended
to plant in a trench. Manure liberally, and either
surface the finished trench with some specially-
prepared soil or with some of the original surface-
soil. Do not make the trenches too deep ; 6 inches
below the ground-level is sufficient when finished
off. The young plants should now have the
lights of the frame removed to harden off the
plants.

Peas. — By topping the earliest sowing a gain of
a week or so will be obtained. Except on retentive
soils, sowings made now and subsequently had
better be in trenches to conserve the moisture
later on.

Successions of Kidney Beans, Turnips and
salading should be made. Charles Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midtolhian.

May 17, 1913O

THE GARDEN.

247

SPRAYING TRIALS AT
WISLEY.

An event of great importance to horticulturists
recently took place at the Royal Horticultural
Society's Gardens at Wisley, when spraying
machinery from various sources was put to
a severe test. The trials were thorough and
exhaustive, and a deal of importance was
attached to the spraying with unstrained lime
wash, which placed fine nozzles to'"a very severe
test. The judges were Professor E. S. Salmon,
Professor H. M. Lefroy, Messrs. F. J. Cliittenden,
S. T. Wright, Henry Hooper, Cecil H. Hooper
and C. R. Fielder. Every syringe and spraying
machine was thoroughly overhauled and exarmned,
and the cost taken into consideration in making
awards.

Syringes. — In testhig syringes the judges de-
voted special attention to the efficiency of the nozzles
and theh: suitabilitv for various washes. The
efficiency of the nozzle was tested by directing
the spray on to sheets of brown paper fixed to a
temporary fence. An illustration of a syringe

London, E.G., and Corry's Syringe were both com-
mended by the judges. From the official report
we gather that " The judges considered the
provision of means of carrying accessory nozzles on
the hand syringes would be a great improvement.
None had such a provision."

Bucket Sprayers. — The only bucket sprayer
to receive an" award of merit was one entitled
the Demon Continuous Spray Syringe, from
the Boundary Chemical Company, Cranmer Street,
Liverpool. (See illustration below). This pump,
which provides an excellent spray, is made to tit any
bucket. We understand that this firm is introduc-
ing a simple clip to keep the tube in the bucket,
also a container to hold the spraying fluid, which
can be carried on a shoulder strap. The Trafalgar
Bucket Sprayer sent by Messrs. G. and W. Purser,

Vermorel Hand Diffuser, from Messrs. Cooper,
Pegler and Co., and the Hand Diffuser No. 1807,
by Messrs. Benton and Stone, were both com-
mended. The Four Oaks Nozzles worked in a

14 G CAP

Limited, made a good impression, and on this page
IS seen an illustration of this sprayer in operation
,a the trial. In using some spraying materials
the judges report that the provision of a strainer
on the intake nozzle would be an advantage.

Continuous Pumping Knapsacks.— As the name
implies, tlie knapsacks shown in this class have
to be pumped while on the back. In the course of
tinxe this method, at present the most serviceable,
mav be superseded by knapsacks that maintam
a continuous spray by means of compressed air.
.A. good number of continuous pumping knapsacks
were on trial, and awards of merit were made
to the Abol, from Messrs. E. A. White, Limited;
and Vermorel's Eclair No. i and Etame, both
sent bv Messrs. Cooper, Pegler and Co. The
Four daks Centre Knapsack Pump was highly
commended, and the continuous pumping knap-
sack from Messrs. Benton and Stone, Birmingham
(Enot's), was commended.

Large Pneumatic Sprayers. — When more

i-fticieiit, tins type of machine will prove a decided
advantage on the continuous pumping sprayer.

THE ABOL SYRINGE, WITH NOZZLE AND
ADJUSTABLE SCREW PLUG.

most satisfactory manner and were higlily com
mended by the judges. These trials are of immense

THE TRAFALGAR SPRAYER IN OPERATION AT
THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S
TRIALS AT WISLEY.

in operation appears on this page. Even with the
best syringes a hollow spray was produced, and in
this direction there is room for improvement.
Two awards of merit were granted to s>Tinges,
viz., Four Oaks Undeniable (angle bend excluded),
sent by the Four Oaks Spraying Machine Company,
Sutton Coldfield ; and the Abol Syringe, from
Messrs. E. A. White, Limited, Paddock Wood,
Kent. The Abol Syringe gives a particularly
good spray, and it is fitted with interchangeable
caps, by means of which the user can vary the
density of the spray from fine to medium or coarse,
as desired. The Abol nozzle and the various parts,
also the syrmge complete with bend attachment,
are illustrated on this page. The same nozzle applies
to the Abol Knapsack Sprayer, which has the
same fitting. The Four Oaks Undeniable Syringe
has a corrugated outer cover, so that the barrel
within is imdentable. Three grades of nozzles
are supplied to this serviceable syringe, including
a straight jet. An excellent spray was produced.
Purser's Arnold Sprayer No. 2, from Messrs.
G. and W. Purser, Limited, 92, Hatton Garden,

^^^^ ^ - . „ . , value to horticulturists

The^prmcipleis that of pumping*^ into the machine j awards were made by

sufficient air pressure to expel all the liquid without ! thorough examination.

further pumping. Messrs. Heurjen and

Co., 35, Noble Street, E.C., were

highly commended for their battery

filler and holders, which are of sound

construction, and created a? good

impression among the commercial

fruit-growers present.

Large Continuous Pumping

Sprayers. — A very serviceable
wheeled machine with powerful
pumps, and known as the Four
Oaks Large Continuous Piunping
Battle Sprayer, was highly com-
mended. This machine is ftnmished
with two 15 - feet lengths of
armoured hose, and for spraying
on a large scale it is decidedly
useful. Messrs. Benton and Stone's
Utility Sprayer, a wheeled machine
with a powerful pump, was com-
mended by the judges. It is par-
ticularly useful for spraying large
standard fruit trees.

Hand Diffusers.— Quite a num-
ber of pneumatic hand sprayers
specially constructed for green-
house or conservatory work, and
particularly useful to exhibitors
who wish to freshen their ex-
hibits at fjower shows, were on
trial. Most of them hold about
four pints of water, and are
easily manipulated. The Alpha
Hand Difluser, shown by the
Alpha Extinguisher Company, was
highlv commended, and the Holder
Hand Diffuser, by Messrs. Hartjen
and Co., was commended. Both
of these handy sprayers are fitted
with an automatic stop cock, and
so easilv manipulated that any
child might use them. The

of all classes, as the
competent judges after

A SNAP-SHOT PHOTOGRAPH TAKEN AT THE
SPRAYING TRIALS.

248

THE GAliDEN.

[May 17, 1913.

POND WEEDS AND COPPER
SULPHATE.

FOR several years past a considerable
amount of trouble has been caused by
the presence of a slimy-looking scum
upon the surface of ponds, lakes, tanks
and reservoirs in various parts of the
country, and requests are constantly
being made for information regarding a method
of treatment which is likely to eradicate it without
injuring Water Lilies and other aquatic plants and
fish. The scum is caused by various kinds of
Algffi, low orders of plant-life allied to the Sea-
weeds, including species of such genera as Anabaena,
Spirogyra and Ulothrix. It is not only in the
British Isles that these or allied kinds of Alga;
cause trouble, for they are prevalent on the Conti-
nent, m America, the Malay States and elsewhere.
In some countries much trouble has been caused
by their presence in reservoirs of water intended
for domestic purposes, for, in addition to the loath-
some appearance of aiJected water, it has fre-
quently an abominable stench, and numerous
experiments have been conducted at considerable
expense with a view to obtaining a cheap method
of cleansing the water without making it detri-
mental to animal or human Ufe. Some of the
Algae form a considerable amount of growth below
the water, and one common kind is popularly
called Flannel-weed on account of Its matted,
thread-like growths. In the first place, people
tried to rake all this growth out of the water,
but that only created a temporary relief, and after
a few weeks the water was as bad as ever. Neither
did cleaning out lakes and pools prevent the recur-
rence of scum ; therefore attention was directed
to finding a poisonous chemical which could be
applied in small enough quantities to kill the
Algae without injuring other plants, fish, animals,
or human beings. A good deal of experimental
work was conducted in America and other coun-
tries, the Americans, perhaps, being to the fore.
As a result of these experiments it was found that
the most satisfactory chemical to use was copper
siJphate, and that salt has now been taken into
general use for the purpose. Highly poisonous
in its action, one part to 1,000,000 parts of water
is sufficient to kill the Algae, but one part in
750,000 parts of water causes no injury to Water
Lilies nor to fish. In fact, the Americans report
that gold-fish and minnows live indefinitely in a
concentration of one part to 200,000, whereas
some of the coarser kmds of fish will stand a one
in 50,000 concentration, but certain delicate kinds
are killed in a one to 500,000.

Regarding its action upon animals and human
beings, it is argued that in a one in 1,000,000
solution, 50 quarts of water a day would have to
be drunk before an amount of copper would be
absorbed to cause any unpleasant action, and that
after a few hours have elapsed from the time
that the copper sulphate has been used, there would
be very little in suspension in the water, as a
large percentage combines with the Algae or is
otherwise precipitated.

From this there is really little to fear from the
use of such a poisonous substance, providing it is
used with care. In the first place, a careful calcu-
lation must be made of the holding capacity of
the pond or lake to be treated. Then the weight
of the water may be taken at about sixty-two and
one-third pounds to the cubic foot, and the copper
sulphate used in proportion. It may be applied

to the water in two ways — either dissolved in a
little water and sprayed over the sturface of the
area to be treated, or tied in a canvas bag and
drawn through the water until dissolved. When
spraying the surface, it is as well to keep the mixture
away from the leaves of Water Lilies, or it will
probably bum them ; once diluted with the water,
however, it does not cause harm. On no account
must it be used stronger than one part in 750,000,
and it is better to adopt the one in 1,000,000
concentration.

In a Bulletin on the subject published by the
American Department of Agriculture, it is said that
Watercress beds are regularly treated in some parts
of America without injury to the Watercress.
An instance is also given of a Kentucky reservoir
containing 25,000,000 gallons of water, from which
in July, r903, the smell became unbearable owing
to the presence of various kinds of Algae. This
was treated with copper sulphate at the rate of
one part in 4,000,000 parts of water. The Algae
was killed in two days, and the smell gradually
disappeared. In addition to being used for killing
Algae, it is said that a concentration of one part
in roo,ooo kills typhoid and cholera germs in from
three to four hours, and mosquito larvae die in a
concentration varying from one in too, 000 to one
in 200,000. As a rule, about two applicatixjns a
year may be expected to keep the water clean.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON VEGE
TABLES.

Spinach. — Too many amateurs and cottagers
who pride themselves on the vegetables produced
in their gardens either neglect Spmach or grow it
in such a manner that it is impossible for its full
nutrient and medicinal properties to be developed.
It ought to be borne in mind that it is one of the
most valuable vegetables of the garden and, as
such, entitled to proper attention. To ensure
success with it in the summer, an open situation
where the soil is deep and fertile must be selected,
as unless the conditions are favourable the plants
will " bolt " in a most disconcerting and dis-
appointing manner. Thin seeding must be the rule,
to obviate the necessity of much thinning and to
encourage a thick-leaved, splendid plant from the
start. The thinning should be followed up until
the plants stand not less than 8 inches asimder
in lines about one foot apaut. Spinach is an
excellent crop to grow between other kinds, but
it must have plenty of fresh air and unobstructed
light to buUd up its properties.

Scarlet Runners. — Between the present date
and the end of the month is a particularly favour-
able time to make the principal sowing of this
indispensable autumn vegetable, and the finest
results can be achieved only when the site chosen
is deep and the soil contains an abundant supply
of readily available food. Natural manure is to
be preferred to chemicals for this crop ; but still
heavier returns will be secured when the first named
is used as a base and the food is increased by the
aid of the concentrated fertilisers. It is essential
that the drills shall be flat-bottomed, firm and
level, and in no instance ought the seeds to be set
closer than 6 inches, while the plants of Sutton's
Best of All demand 12 inches to 15 inches in which
to display their wonderful powers of growtli amd
productiveness. Ample space pays with these
as with other crops.

Salsify and Scorzonera. — These are useful
change vegetables of which one or two good rows
may well find a place in gardens, but much space
should not be accorded, as it can be more profit-
ably used for other kinds. Those who can spare
a little room should sow the seeds immediately,
as it is well on the late side. The drills ought to
be about one inch deep, and the seeds should
be dropped in clusters of three or four at intervals
of 8 inches. Later on, thinning will have to be done
to single the plants, and hoeing will keep things
going.

Potatoes. — Amateur and cottage gardeners who
like to postpone their tasks imtil the latest possible
moment must now realise that unless they plant
any Potatoes still remaining out of the grotmd at
once, the plants will not have time to make perfect
growth, and, in the absence of that, one cannot
expect to produce a heavy crop of excellent tubers.
Late varieties only will be available, and the lines
should not be less than 33 inches asunder, and
36 inches is to be preferred in most soUs, while
15 inches ought to separate the sets in the rows.
The deepest digging, with generous but judicious
manuring, is imperative if the finest results are to
be secured. Plants of early varieties will be coming
through the surface, and, directly they are seen,
earthing must commence, or a sudden frost may
come along and cut them down. In addition to
earthing it is wise to have at hand a supply of
protective material to hover on the bed if it is
needed. Immediately prior to this first earthing
is a suitable time to apply a dressing of an approved
concentrated food to the plants.

Hoeing. — It is imperative that the hoe shall be
kept running between the rows of all vegetables
from the time that the lines of plants can be clearly
seen showing through the surface. A constant
state of looseness, to the point of dustiness, con-
serves the moisture in the soil and thus encourages
incessant progress in the plants ; while at the same
time weeds are prevented from growing to the stage
of flowering and shedding their seeds. Beyond
these two things, each of which is of great import-
ance, hoeing admits rain freely to the soil, and it
is, of course, followed by the sweetening and
invigorating fresh air. Thus in the one operation
the cultivator does immense good in the encourage-
ment of satisfactory growth. H. J.

THE EDITOR'S TABLE.

A White Pelargonium Sport. — Mr. F. W.

Digwood, The Gardens, Harewood Park, Ross-
on-Wye, writes : " I am senduig some blooms of
a white Pelargonium for your opinion. It is a
sport from the pink one I enclose, Withyham.
I have grown it now for five years, and it seems to
stand all right." The flowers sent are remarkably
fine, being over two inches across, pure white,
with crimson stigmata and borne in large
trusses. The petals are delicately fringed, and
we regard this variety as an improvement on
Purity.

Rose Niphetos from Bishop's Waltham. —

Mr. E. Molyneux, Swanmore House Farm, Bishop's
Waltham, Hants, sends some superb blooms of
this old but fragrant and good white climbing
Rose. The flowers that Mr. Molyneux sends
prove, a^ he states in his letter, that Niphetos is
still far from being played out, notwithstanding
the many new varieties that are constantly being
raised.

J3fe^

GARDEN.

No. 2166.— Vol. LXXVII.

May 24, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes 01 the Webe
cokbbspondemoe
A crippled Pear tree
Saxif ruga Khfti
SUene acauiia for the

rock garden
Thefllty beatalpines
A living from t.he

land

Toads in the garden
The Narcissus ily . .

219

250
261

251

251

251
251
251

Forthcoming events.. 251

wobeers amonq the
Flowers
Mr. S. I. Wright .. 251
Plowek Garden
Seasonable notes on

Dahlias .. .. 252
Auricnla Flame . . 252
Tulips at Vincent

Square 252

A useful plant for
cutting . . . . 253
Rock and Water Garden
An Everlasting
Flower for the
rock garden.. .. 254
A beautifoJ rock gar-
den Violet . . . . 254
The perennial
Candytuft . . . . 254
CoLOOBKD Plate
Rose Danie . . 254

Review of the SrRiHQ

Show at Chelsea 255
Rose Garden
Top-dressing Rose-
beds 267

Trees and Shkobs
Str ong-g rowing
climbers for per-
golas 267

Roblnias or False
Acacias .. .. 268

GARDEmNG FOR BEGINNERS

A simple arrange-
ment of summer

beds 269

How to harden bed-
ding-out plants.. 269
How to flu liower-
baskets .. .. 269
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 270

For Northern gar-
dens 270

Chrtsanthemtim Notes 271
the Fiiry Best

Moraine Plants.. 271
New and Rare

Plants 271

Fruit Gaedbn

Spraying fruit trees 272
Answers to Corre-
spondents . . . . 272

IliliOSTRATIONS.

How to set a horiiontal sundial 250

Mr. S. T. Wright 251

Show Auricula Flame 252

Hellchrysum bellidioides 253

Rose Danae Coloured plate

The perennial Candytuft 254

Rose Mme. Edouard Herriot 267

A apray of Rose Acacia 268

A simple arrangement of summer beds 269

BDITORIALr NOTICBS.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor weloonua photographs^ ariieUa and notes ^
but he will not be reeponeible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, vitl be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contribuiions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright mil be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artisti
or literary contribuiions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
be reoognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

To Our Readers. — In this Special Double
Number, which is twice the ordinary size, vfill be
found an illustrated review of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society's Spring Show, which was this
year held in the Chelsea Hospital Grounds instead
of the Inner Temple Gardens. For some years
past the Temple Show has been so overcrowded
that it was impossible for visitors to see the exhibits
with any degree of comfort, and the Council very
wisely decided to transfer the show to Chelsea,
where the great International Exhibition of last
year was held, and where there is ample space.
Readers who have friends in this country or abroad
who are interested in gardening should post them
a copy of this issue.

Disbudding Roses. — During the next few weeks
the disliudcUng of Roses, where such a course is
adopted, will need attention. Where large, bold
flowers are desired, thjre is no doubt that the re-
moval of the weakest and badly-placed buds,
leaving only the best one of each truss, has much
to commend it. There are many, however, who
prefer to allow their Roses to develop naturally,
carmg not that the flowers are small. The advisa-
bility or otherwise of disbudding is therefore
purely a question of individual taste.

The Bardfield Oxiip. — This is the most beautiful
of our native Primulas, and one that is by no means
widely distributed. In common with the Cowslip,
it has been flowering very freely this year, and
recently, when in the Bardfield district, we noticed
a very beautiful colony in a rather thicldy-wooded
plantation. Curiously enough, the natives of
Essex call the Cowslip Peggie or Paigle, and the
Oxlip is known to them as the Cowslip. The true
Bardfield Oxlip is a plant well worth a place in
the best gardens, and will thrive well in moist,
loamy soil. It is generally regarded as a natural
cross between the Primrose and Cowslip, but of this
there is some doubt. Certainly in appearance
it is midway between the two.

Honesty in the Wild Garden. — A very pretty
effect has been noticed over a period of several
weeks at Kew by an informal group of the common
Honesty (Lunaria annua, or L. biennis as it is
often called). Seeds were, apparently, sown
broadcast among hardy Ferns growing in a thin
shrubbery, and the plants, now a couple of feet
high and masses of flowers, have not the slightest
appearance of formality. Contrasted with the
various shades of green seen in the young fronds
of the Ferns and the leaves of the shrubs, the
reddish flowers are seen to considerable advantage,
and one cannot but admit that the plant is much
prettier and better fitted for this method of
culture than for planting in formal-shaped beds.
As the seeds can be sown in the places where the
plants are to flower, a good deal of trouble in
transplanting is saved.

Azaleas at Kew. — Anyone who is anxious to
sif thi' .\zaleas in flower at Kew would do well
to pay their visit before the end of May, for the
plants will be at their best about the last week of
the month. Of the many outdoor displays at Kew,
the show of Azaleas is one of the best, and large
numbers of visitors make annual excursions to
see them. Situated between the Palm House
and the Rhododendron Dell, the Azalea garden
is to be found in an opening amid large specimen
Beeches and Oaks, the plants being arranged in
a large number of beds on a smoothly-kept lawn.
Here almost every shade of red, yellow and pink
is to be found, and it would be difficult to imagine
a finer picture than the masses of showy yet
delicate colours of the flowers amid the setting
of bright green leaves of the trees around.

Cunningham's White Rhododendron.— This

is a fairly well-known evergreen Rhododendron,
but its true value is known to few, or it would be
cultivated much more extensively. Rhododendron
Cimningham's White is a very hardy sort, escaping
a severe winter when even the common R. ponticum
has suffered. It also thrives in soil when lime is
present ; in fact, its general value, both in hardi-
ness, growth and habit, is so good that the plant
finds favour among propagators as a stock tor
the choice sorts, particularly on the Continent.
For covert planting and shrubbery culture Cunning-
ham's White equals, or even surpasses, R. ponticum.
It flowers earlier than R. ponticum, being tully
open usually about the middle of May. The
flowers are white, with a faint flush of lilac or
mauve, which as they reach maturity is less pro-
nounced. Layering is the most satisfactory
method of propagating this Rhododendron.

" Fire " in Tulips in 1913.— Owing to the

inclement season, the flowers and foliage of Tulips
have in many gardens been much affected with
a fungus, known botanically as Botrytis galanthina.
It shows itself as ugly, withered-looking spots,
which, in damp weather especially, are often
covered with " mould," and which rapidly extend
in size and infect adjacent parts. If the attack
is not too bad, constant picking or cutting off all
the bad parts is advised. If the attack is so bad
that nothing practically would be left if all the
diseased places were removed, it will still be best
to resort to the knife. The bulbs may then be
left where they are to ripen off, or they may be
lifted with their roots and put into boxes filled
with light soil, where the same process may take
place. Tulips should not be planted in the same
soil the following year. Undoubtedly protection
from cold and wind helps to keep the plants healthy.
A constant watch should be kept at all times for
the appear£uice of the spots, which should at once
be removed and burned. Bulbs which have had
their leaves destroyed by "fire" will be weakened
in proportion to the extent of the damage done,
and must not be expected to produce full-sized
blooms the following year.

250

THE GARDEN.

[May 24, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents, )

A Crippled Pear Tree. — I was much interested
to see the illustration on page 238 of last week's
issue of a Pear tree which, though blown over,
still continues to flower and bear fruit. Some
years ago I had under my charge a half-standard
Blenheim Orange Apple tree which, during a gale,
was blown over in the same way. As the tree

A. — SUNDIAL FIXED FOR ENGLAND.

was about thirty years old and in its prime, and
as it was not an inconvenience, it was decided to
leave it. For some years afterwards, and as long
as it was under my observation, this tree con-
tinued to bear splendid crops of first-quaUty fruit.
Indeed, the check to the roots was undoubtedly bene-
ficial, as the tree, in its crippled state, cropped more
freely than before the accident. Many of the large
roots were quite bare, but, of course, sufficient re-
mained in the soil to nourish the tree. — A. B. Essex.
Cutting the Foliage of Bulbs. — Your useful
reminder on page 225, May 10 issue, of the value
of removing seed-vessels from bulbs is accompanied
by another valuable one advising that the leaves
should not be cut. The cutting of the leaves of
bulbs is a much more common practice than is
generally believed by those who grow them in a
rational manner, and who allow the foliage to
ripen before removing it, thus giving the bulb
all the chances possible. One regrets, also, to see
that so many leaves have been cut from Narcissi
in order to supply the demand for their own foliage
to accompany the flowers. It is impossible not
to sympathise with the taste whicb counsels the
use of their own foliage with such flowers, as they
generally look better when so displayed thjui when
set up with other leaves. One is led to pen this
note from seeing so many Daffodils cut remorse-
lessly down for foliage to use with the flowers.
It is little wonder that so many complain of Narcissi
refusing to flower and even dying out. A little
consideration in the way of selecting foliage from
several instead of from one or two plants only
will palliate matters, but it cannot be too frequently
impressed upon all that bulbous plants suffer greatly
when their foliage is cut off prematurely. — S. A.

How to Grow Gentiana verna. — The Vernal

Gentian is such a lovely flower that its requirements
deserve full qpnsideration at our hands. To succeed
with it is to be the possessor of one of the choicest
gems of the alpine flora. Unfortimately, just as
with the Gentianella, G. acaulis, it is impossible
to assert that it will succeed in any particular
garden under certain treatment. In many gardens
it has to receive special treatment, while in others
it appears to grow with the minimum of difficulty.
In my own garden I have now been successful
with it in a low, rather moist part, exposed to the
sun, however, but surfaced with stone chips,
and these are kept renewed and brought up to the
neck of the plants as there is occasion. I have seen
it growmg admirably on the top of a low retaining
wall, with plenty of stones about it. In some places,
however, I find it thrives well without any special
care, save that afforded other alpines. — S. Arnott,
Dumfries. N.B.

How to Set a Horizontal Sundial. — 11 the

sundial is for use as garden ornament, the follow-
ing is usually considered a sufficiently accurate
method of setting. Select a bright sunny day (as
near as possible to the summer solstice is generally
preferred), and, first making sure that the dial-
plate is perfectly level, so arrange the dial that at
twelve o'clock the shadow of the gnomon (or style)
points to the XII. on the dial-plate. If, however,
greater accuracy is desired, the first thing to be
considered is whether the dial itself is made and
marked correctly for the district in which it is
to be used. A sundial made for the South of
England would be useless in the North, owing to
the fact that the style (or gnomon) must point
to the Pole star, the altitude of which varies with
the latitude. The angle formed by the style with
a plate made for London would be 5iJ°. In New-
castle the angle would be more obtuse, being 90°
at the North Pole. South of London the angle
becomes more acute the nearer the Equator is
approached. Assuming that the dial-plate is
correct for the district, a line drawn from the centre
of the style, through the XII. mark, should point
to the Polar or Geographical North, which in
England may be taken as 18° 58" East of the
Magnetic North. Even with the utmost care
having been taken in the manufacture and fixing
of a horizontal sundial it can only be considered
as supplying an approximate measurement of time.
The accompanying diagrams illustrate the dial
fixed for England in relation to the cardinal points
as given by a mariner's compass (a) and the
elevation of the style above the dial-plate for
London (b). — Geo. Dillistone.

Primula cockburniana : How Far is It
Perennial ? — This question is asked by Mr. Amott
in your issue of May 10, page 229. Under certain
conditions it is perennial, but sown annually and
treated as a biennial better results are obtained.
I have a bed here in which several plants flowered
last year, and they are coming into flower again,
clearly pointmg to their perennial character. The
position is in full sun. They are growing in very
gritty soil, with a great proportion of broken chips
mixed with loam, sand and leaf-soil. A foot of
this soil on the top of another foot of co£irser drainage
will be found suitable to keep the plants in health
for several years. -John Macwatt, Morelands, Duns.

Mr. Amott's experiments with this charm-
ing plant are interesting, and I hope he may yet
succeed in establishing its reputation as a perennial.
So far, our experience here is but a confirmation
of his. We have grown it both as a pondside
plant, with its feet in water, and in a high and

fairly dry position. It flourishes either way,
but proves nothing but a biennial with us. There
is no doubt that this and many other of the newer
Primulas are but Uttle understood at present.
Some enthusiasts will, I hope, take them in hand
and learn and teach all about them, so that we may
handle them with the certitude and assurance
with which we now handle Auriculas and Primroses.
When they are better understood, the new-comers
of the Primula family have a great reception
awaiting them. — Robert Peel Sheldon, Hawk-
hurst, Kent.

I am afraid the most ardent admirers of

this beautiful Primrose will have difficulty in
substantiating its claim to be a perennial. True,
there are instances where it has stood through
three winters, as has been the case with those
under the care of my old friend Mr. William
Hutchmson at Terregles, as cited by Mr. Amott
on page 229 of The Garden for May 10 ; but one
or two isolated instances are not sufficient to
warrant its being classed as perennial. I have grown
this lovely little gem for several years, and have
also been fortunate in keeping it through two
winters in certain positions ; but the great majcffity
of the plants were nothing more or less than
biennial. The plants, which survived two winters,
were planted fairly high up in a pocket, facing
east, in a thoroughly well-drained part of the rock
garden. Others grown under similar conditions,
but with a northern exposure, failed to live through
the winter. The soil in which they were planted
was a fairly light compost of yellow loam and
leaf-mould, with some rough river sand added.
The freedom with which P. cockburniana seeds
and reproduces itself by this means amply justifies
its being treated as a biennial ; and really, after
all, is it worth while trying to make it otherwise ?

-7*

flNCjLE 5(4

B. — elf;vation of style above the

DIAL-PLATE FOR LONDON.

Beautiful little groups of year old plants are
exceedingly effective, the richness of the colouring
being very conspicuous, and I do not think that
its biennial character will be in the least a draw-
back to its popularity. I shall, however, he
interested to learn the results of Mr. Amott's
experiments with this very charming Primula. — •
William Little, Ochilview, Bridge oj Earn, N.B,

May 24, 1913]

THE GARDEN.

251

Saxitnga Rhsei. — ^This Mossy Saxifrage is
one of the freest flowering we have, and several
fine dumps are now quite a mass of bloom. For
several years they have been established on the
rockwork of a bridge, with a very shallow root-
run, subjected to extremes of heat and drought,
cold and rains, and under trying conditions which
many other plants rese«t. — E. Beckett, Aldenham
House Gardens, Elstree.

Silene acaulis for the Rock Garden.— Mr.

Farrer, m " The Rock Garden." page 48, says :
" Do not trouble about S. acaulis. It may grow
well in soil or moraine, but it rarely, if ever, flowers
as it should." I trust enthusiasts will not be put
off by this, for I have just seen a patch in an alpine
garden here so studded with buds that when it
flowers it will be a sheer mass of pink which could
not be beaten even in the Alps, except for size of
the mass. It is growing in a light, limy loam in
full sun with no special preparation. So let us still
experiment with this e.xquisite native until success
rewards our efforts. — E. B, .-Anderson, Dublin.

The Fifty Best Alpines. — I have been sorely
tempted to send my list of the fifty best alpines,
but I think the subject has been dealt with suffi-
ciently. I only wish to remark that in none of the
lists sent, nor for that matter in any catalogue I
have (and their number is legion), do I find a plant
mentioned which is very distinct and well suited
for rock gardening. It rejoices in the name of
Tetraganobolus siliquosus [Lotus siliquosus. —
Ed.], at least so it was named to me by a resident
of the neighbourhood where I found it, viz.,
Walchensee in Bavaria. At one time it threatened
to be too great a robber of space in my small rock
garden, and even now no stones can keep it in
bounds. It comes out the other side and seeds
freely. It has a pretty lemon-coloured Pea blossom.
1 am no botanist, and cannot describe it otherwise
than as a creeping Pea. — Ellen E. Stevenson.

A Living from the Land. — In the central
column of page 236, The Garden, issue May 10,
there appears a splendid answer to a correspondent
seeking for advice on the above subject. Other
readers of The Garden who may be contemplating
working land in order to make a living from it
should also read this reply. Sound advice is given,
and such is always beneficial to enquirers. Facts
must be faced and every detail connected with
the matter duly studied. If would-be florists
and market-gardeners would do all this, there
would be fewer unfortunate ventures in this direc-
jtion. A good home and a regular income should
not be given up without much careful thought. It has
been my duty to answer many enquiries such as the
one referred to, and while giving due encouragement,
I have never hesitated to point out all the draw-
backs I am acquainted with, this, because I know
of many failures as well as successes. — B.

Toads in the Garden. — As stated recently in
your journal, the value of toads as destroyers
c-f insects in the garden is great, and they should
be encouraged in every way. Many people dis-
like toads, and call them beastly and so forth.
A closer acquaintance will, however, dispel this,
for the eye of the toad is very beautiful, while its
manner of disposing of insects and worms is most
interesting. It will watch its prey for some time,
and at the least sign of movement the long, glutinous
tongue of the toad is protruded with a snap and
the insect disappears. If it happens to be a vigorous
beetle, its struggles against the sides of the toad
may be seen for some Utile time. Toads may
be encouraged in the garden by forming them a
cool and shady retreat with a few bricks. One

liT»d in this way in my garden for a couple of years,
until it unaccountably disapp«ar«d. It was so
much at home that it would come out of its retrsat
to be fed when I whistled for it, returning to its
quarters when satisfied. It would readily eat
an insect from off my hand. A fact that interestsd
everyone was that it would eat wasps and bees
as readily as anything •Ise. The toad being a
cold-blooded animal, their stings had no effect
upon i: To illustrate this I used to catch some
wasps and imprison them under a bell-glass, and
then slip the toad in with them. One by one as
they came within reach of his tongue they were
gobbled up. After the disappearance of my
specimen, changes took place, which has prevented
me from acquiring a successor. — H. P.

The Narcissus Fly. — I have been much interested
to read 'he article by G. St. Ox in your issue of
the 26th lilt., page 203, on merodons. I would
like 1 1 add a little from experience also. The fly
is to be recognised partly by its queer hum or sing
of its v.ings and by its yellow or red lower part
of its body, and it is easily confused with another
fly, a sr)rt of darting, hovering one that has a pointed

MR. S. T. WRIGHT.

tail. This 5 not a merodon fly. A fact of interest
is that a flv will nearly always lay its eggs in the
same bed ?_nd close to where it itself was hatched,
and I "hiuK we can from this presume it will hang
about ttdt part of the garden border or bed. I
have as far back as seven or eight years ago dis-
covered that eggs late hatched do not mature into
full-grown grubs in time to leave the bulb early
in February or the end ot January, and so remain
on or eat their way into a neighbouring bulb.
And, further, bulbs that are imported from abroad
are far more infected with grubs than those grown
in our c mntry. Q.E.D., buy home-grown bulbs.
Last year we had great fun with a net as described
in the article, and digging up all our bulbs in the
autunm, with carefully scrutinising those replanted,
has resulted this year in no merodons being caught,
though we have looked for them for days. We
think we havt seen one once. — W. F. M. Copeland.

WORKERS AMONG THE
FLOWERS.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
May 27. — Rhododendron Show at the Royal
Horticultural Society's Hall (four days). Bath
and West and Soulhern Counties Society's Show
at Truro (five days).

MR. S. T. WRIGHT.

IT is with pleasure that we publish in this
special issue a portrait of Mr. S. T. Wright,
the genial superintendent of the Royal
Horticultural Society's Gardens at Wisley.
It is given to few men who are engaged in
horticulture to come so prominently before
the public as has Mr. Wright during the last
seventeen years, the period that he has held the
office he now occupies.

Practically the whole of his working life has
been devoted to gardening, his horticultural career
commencing at Snelston Hall, Derbyshire, under
Mr. McPherson, who was regarded as one of the
finest fruit-growers of the day. From Snelston
Hall Mr. Wright went to Alton Towers under Mr.
Rabone, and from there to Wood Seat in Stafford-
shire, the gardens of which were famed in those
days for Grapes. After two years there as fruit
foreman, the subject of our portrait went as head-
gardener to C. B. Kingdon, Esq., Ednaston Lodge,
Derbyshire, a position that he occupied for seven
years, until the estate was sold. Ross, near
Hereford, was his next venue, head-gardener
to C. Lee-Campbell, Esq., Glenston Court, being
his position in the West Country. Here, in addition
to the gardens proper, Mr. Wright had charge of
extensive fruit plantations, and we find him spending
ten years in this position, relinquishing it only
when the lease of the estate expired. It was
fortunate for horticulture generally that this expira-
tion caused him to retire from Glenston Court,
because at that time — in 1895, to be precise —
the Royal Horticultural Society were casting about
for a supermtendent, and their choice tell on Mr.
Wright, who commenced his duties on January i,
1896.

How numerous and varied these duties are, few
people really know. One would naturally assume
that the supervision of the gardens at Wisley, with
their many ramifications, would be sufficient in
itself to keep him fully occupied. Yet until about
two years ago, when Mr. Fielder was appointed
to that position, he acted as official adviser of the
society, and in that capacity visited and advised
on Fellows' gardens in all parts of the United
Kingdom, with the result that there are few
localities with which he is not familiar. Then
we find him at every one of the fortnightly shows
held by the society at Vincent Square, superintend-
ing the erection of staging, spacing of exhibits, and
acting as a sort of walking encyclopaedia to any
of the Fellows who may require his assistance.
During the first season he is usually kept busy
naming fruits, and it is doubtful if anyone knows
hardy fruits better. Even obscure varieties of
Apples and Pears that the average gardener has
seldom or never heard of are an open book to him.
It is at the great exhibitions, such as the
Temple and Holland House, that Mr. Wright's
genius as an organiser is put to the supreme test.
Probably no one but he knows the difficulties that
have been encountered at the Temple Gardens
during the last few years in packing numerous and
ever-expanding exhibits into a limited space, and it
must have been a great relief to him this year to
have the larger space in the Chelsea Hospital
Grounds for arranging the. great spring show.
Imperturbable and courteous always. Mr. Wright
is regarded by all those privileged to know him as
the right man in the right place. That he may
long be spared to fill it is our earnest wish.

252

THE GARDEN.

[May 24, 1913.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON DAHLIAS.

THERE is perhaps no other florists' flower
which has experienced such ebbs and
flows of popularity as the DahUa ;
but it is now, and has been for
several years, on the rising tide,
and it is likely to continue to
advance in general esteem as long as we find
the raisers of new varieties bringing forward
the splendid qualities that have character-
ised the introductions of recent years. The im-
provement has been marked in
every desirable direction, and if
some genius would impart delight-
ful perfume to the best quaUty
of the day, we should have an
ideal flower for our gardens.

The Dahlia is not a plant tor
one man, for one class of men, for
one garden, or for one district,
since it will grow anywhere, pro-
vided that the owner desires, or,
better still, determines, to grow it.
I have seen blooms in a backyard
only a few feet square that would
have graced any show-board in
the country, and the cultivator was
a shoemaker by trade.

There is one respect in which
growers are prone to be at fault.
They have a collection of varieties
that has been steadily built up and
contains, in their opinion, the very
best. So far good ; but they are
too apt to rest content with those
they have, and it is a difficult
matter to persuade them to make
changes. Herein they are correct
to a point. To retain old favourites
is sound from every point of view,
but to fail to try one or two fresh
ones every season is a short-sighted
policy that can only result in the
collection gradually, or rapidly,
falling behind. It is quite im-
material how many varieties are
grown ; some additions must be
made each year, and now is the
time to do it. In The Garden
the leading specialists in Dahlias —
as in other flowers, too, tor that
matter — advertise their wares, and
they have at this moment excellent
stocks of the leading novelties, and
from them a choice ought to be
made. No matter how superb a
variety may be, trial will assuredly
bring forth one that is superior,
when the old stager will have to take
a back place. On the other hand,
the new-comer may not please, in which event it is
sate to assert that the grower will not make a special
effort to perpetuate it. The rule must be to make
experiments with a view to keeping in the front.

Preparing the Soil. — This is an important
task, and it might to be put in hand immediately,
that is to say, where it has not yet been accom-
plished. The plants are gross feeders, but this
by no means implies that rotten manure should
come in contact with the roots ; on the contrary,
they will resent it. Form deep stations and with
the bottom mix the manure, and above that put

a 6-inch layer of the finest fresh soil at command.
The roots quickly secure a hold, and later, as
progress is made, the plants derive immense benefit
from the excellent food put down below. There
is no fear of its loss in so long a season of growth
as the Dahlia demands ; in fact, it is the other
way about, since Dahlias will exhaust the supply
before the end and will require special assistance
from the cultivator.

The Stakes. — When Dahlias are admirably
grown in excellent soil, they make plants which
ofier enormous resistance to the wind, and as
the shoots are always brittle, there is serious danger
that there will be disaster miless the staking is

of June, the results will be perfectly satisfactory,
provided, of course, that all other essential details
are correctly carried out. The plants are decidedlv
tender, and even when protection is afiorded it
is difficult, and sometimes quite impossible, to
prevent a check to advance, and this is in no sense
desirable. With plants that have been thoroughly
hardened and are splendidly rooted, the work
may be done at discretion, but dull, showery
weather is most conducive to success. J. H.

AURICULA FLAME.

If there was one Auricula which by virtue of its
brilliant colour stood out from all others at the
recent Auricula show held at
Vincent Square, it was the variety
Flame. It was shown in Mr. J.
Douglas' winning exhibit in the
well - contested class for twelve
Auriculas, dissimilar. It is a typical
show variety, with broad banded
petals, and paste on leaves and
flowers. The colour, which is the
remarkable feature of the variety,
may best be described as a brilliant
ruby crimson, and of a vivid glow
that made it conspicuous among
all other varieties.

SHOW AURICULA FLAME, A BEAUTIFUL VARIETY WITH RUBY
CRIMSON FLOWERS.

done with care and efficiency. The one principal
support should be placed in position immediately
the preparation of the station is completed, and
not afterwards, as is sometimes done by the novice.

TULIPS AT VINCENT
SQUARE.

May 14.
No account of the display of Tulips
in the Hall on May 14 would be
complete without a few words by
way of preface, on the eternal
subject of the weather. It would
be unseemly for me to describe it ;
but as the late Archbishop Magee
said, when some footman anointed
the episcopal coat with soup,
" Will some layman please make
an appropriate remark ? " There
were unmistakable signs of what
the flowers had gone through, not
the least significant being the
empty benches which had been
reserved for the competitive dis-
plays of "Cottages" and " Dar-
wins," which one fondly hoped were
going to initiate a long series of
friendly contests among the ama-
teur Tulip-growers of Great Britain. '
Oh ! Mr. Curtis, why did you not
bring some of those three hundred
fine flowers you left at home ? Oh !
Mr. Faudel- Phillips, why did you
not find it in your heart to cut
just two or three dozen from that
glorious display at Balls Park ?
Surely they would never have been
missed ! Canon Fowler and Mr.
Morton had the best intentions possible, but
" fire " and an unkindly soil had defeated them.
A seasonable toast, good readers : " Another
year, another weather and some competitors."

Driving down a stout, pointed stake when planting j Enough of the show of empty benches, euphemisti-

an error that causes
the results are thus

has been accomplished is
injury to the roots, and
prejudiced from the outset.

Planting. — In some districts planting will
have commenced, but one gains little by over-
haste and runs risks that are not worth accepting.
If the whole of the work is finished by the middle

cally called on this occasion " Tulips."

As the blackest cloud always has a silver lining,
so these desolate, untenanted spaces had a brilliant
and varied surrounding of fine groups and isolated
vases, which for a time turned the large Hall into
a delightful fairy-land of gorgeous colour. I cannot
recall the time when there were so many large

May 24, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

258

trade exhibits exposed to view at once. Sutton's, Tulips — it is a long, pointed, medium-sized flower Messrs. R. H. Bath's collection was very re-
on the right hand of the door, under the able ; of deep rich crimson. Mr. S. T. Wright, the presentative. Among the many good things was
generalship of Mr, White, had a splendid collection superintendent at Wisley, told me it had stood the the lovely Darwin, Massenet, which was the only
of good varieties beautifully staged and excellently : rough weather wonderfully well, and is one of the Tulip to gain an award of merit at the committee
grown (not, by the way, in Holland, as a friend very few luispotted ones at Wisley, where it has i meeting. It is a flower well apart from others in
suggested to me, but at Reading). Carters been much admired. its colouring ; pale soft rose, edged warm flesh,

occupied their accustomed place immediately I Messrs. Barr and Sons were at one end of the with a conspicuous deep blue base, is as near as I
facing the entrance, with a bold arrangement in I hall, and had a large display. On the whole their can get in my description. Melicette, one of my
big, tall vases, in the centre of which was a mass flowers were on the small side, or they would have favourite mauves, and the rich rosy red Orion,
of what was the undoubted novelty of the show — had a higher award. Prominent here were one of the red Darwins I like so much, took my
the white, branching Tulip, M. S. Mottet, raised ' Fontanelle, a dull ruby rose Darwin, very distinct ; eye. I also noticed Admiral Kingsbergen, one of
by M. Bony in France, and to whom the scientific John Ruskin, the beautiful art combination of the most effective of all broken red and whites,
committee gave a certificate of appreciation when, ' salmon pink, pink and yellow ; Emerald Gem, an | and Miss Doris Diggle, a bright little striped bloom
on his behalf, 1 placed some growinp; in pots before orange rose with an olive green base, lovely and dis- ; with maroon and lemon colouring. Mr. Leak
them. As I am probably the only person who tinct in the garden ; Panorama (also called, curiously i tells me he has some fine stocks of these rectified
has a good-sized bed of them in his garden, I would enough, Fairy), an immense orange crimson ; and ! Tulips at Wisbech, and that he thinks the tide is
like to say that I have found the branching to be Flamingo, the long pale rose and pink Darwin, ; turning in their favour. It has already done so
constant, provided the bulbs are liberally treated Messrs. R. and G, Cuthbert had a large display, 1 in America, and buyers from Uncle Sam are rather
and only the biggest ones planted, and that the but of uneven quality, T thought they would keen after them,
irregularity in the size and develop-
ment of the blooms and the length
of the stems make a decided and
pleasing alternative to the soldier-
like regularity of the ordinary dis-
play, Messrs, Hogg and Robertson
had a fresh and varied assortment
from " Holland in Ireland," They
can get fine blooms over there, and
no mistake. Millet (rich crimson)
and Herta (after Pride of Haarlem)
were both good. Wales was quite
the equal of Ireland in tint and size,
and in the person of Mr. Watts showed
what the gallant little land can
produce. His Baronne de la Tonnaye
must have been about the high-water
mark of what the flower is capable
of doing. His The Fawn was also
excellent.

To me Dobbies is Cuthbertson —
Sweet Peas and Potatoes. I wiU
have to add Tulips soon I hope.
They had a grand lot of Sweet Peas
— beautifully grown, it almost goes
without saying — but I was hardly
prepared for their Tulips, Poor
things ! Mr, Ireland had stuck them
away right at the back in two some-
what hard and stiff lines, as if he
were afraid his old favourites might
he jealous of them were their charms
more attractively displayed. Possibly
he was right, for in freshness, size
and colouring the Tulips here had
no superiors, it they had any equals,
in the Hall ; but it is only fair to
state that they had passed the last week of their
life under the kindly protection of a glass light.
Lucky Irf^land ! he covered them in the nick of
time. He put the lights on on April 9, and on the
nth there was a severe hailstorm,

Messrs. R. W. Wallace of Colchester exhibited
several good new varieties. Grenadier, a large
vermilion self ; Quaintness, faded mahogany with
coppery yellow edge ; Boadicea, a very large flower,
dull mahogany red, edged orange, very like Hammer
Hales : and Beauty of Bath, a very pale Fairy Queen,
w-ere four prominent ones, A small collection
from Mr. C. Bourne was very attractive. I noticed
here Solfatare, the beautiful pale yellow sport of
FuJgens ; that acme of refinement, Louis XIV,,
deep rich purple with golden bronze edges ; and
Mrs, W, O, Wolseley, one of my own finds in a
lottage garden about a mile from my home, and
which I always clain< as ope of the hardiest of

HELICHRYSUM BELLIDIOIDES, A CHARMING LITTLE EVERLASTING FLOWER FOR THE ROCK GARDEN,

(See page 254,)

have had a higher award, but their little joke was
lost on the judges. Brother (Fra) Angelico was
either made into a woman or given a wife, for there
he was labelled " Frau Angelica," Dom Pedro
here was excellent. I have grown it for years, but
its quiet beauty was lost on me till I saw a bunch
of it pot-grown on Messrs. Sydenham's stand at
the Birmingham Show. " Union Jack is lovely,"
one lady said to another as I was standing taking
notes. It is a broken " byb.," rather pale in
shade.

Messrs. James Veitch and Sons displayed a very
interesting collection. To me it was particularly
so, as I expect for the first time in his life " Sir
Harry " appeared in public as a Tulip. There is
a good illustration of it in my book on Tulips,
Suffice it to say now it is a large flower of a pretty
shade of heliotrope pink, distinct and sturdy in
a garden.

My last words are to record the small and
diversified collection from the new venture, the
Wargrave Plant Farm, I liked the mauve Glory
of Walworth very much, A pure white base does
set off a flower, and gives it a look which nothing
else does.

Before buying-time comes round I hope to give,
with the Editor's permission, a series of selections,
for one has only to go to such a show as that
about which I have been writing to realise the
bewildering immensity of choice which to-day
is ours.' Joseph Jacob.

A USEFUL PLANT FOR CUTTING.

(The Cufidone.)
The Cupidone, as Catananche cajrulea is popularly
called, was in olden times employed to induce
love, and the name of Catananche is said to be
derived from two Greek words signifying compulsion,

254

THE GARDEN.

[May 24, 1913.

the idea being that it had the power of causing
an irresistible impulse to love. How it was so
applied does not appear to have been handed down
to these prosaic days of ours. It is as a garden
flower, however, that it is prized in our times,
as its flowers are invaluable for cutting.
The Cupidone is, however, not too hardy, and
should have a dry soil and a sunny position, where
it will generally thrive for a considerable number
of years. The flowers, which are borne in August
and September, are of a nice blue, but there is a
white variety, alba, and one with white and
purple blooms called C. c. bicolor. Seeds may
be sown in spring in the same manner as those
of other perennials and treated
similarly S. A.

in September, was dead. On inspection, however,
we found it just pushing through the soil, and
apparently quite vigorous. This note may save
many a plant, which, if left alone, might appear
in due course. This is such a charming Violet,
with its prettily-cut foliage and handsome lavender
or blue flowers, white in alba, and with purple
upper petals in bicolor.

Dumfries. S. Arnott.

THE PERENNIAL CANDYTUFT.

The perennial Candytuft is foremost among efiec-
tive rock plants that flower from May onwards.

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATE 1472.

T

ROCK AND WATER
GARDEN.

AN EVERLASTING
FLOWER FOR THE
ROCK GARDEN.

(Helichrysum bellidioides.)

THIS dainty little New
Zealand plant, with its
Daisy-like blossoms of
about half an inch in dia-
meter, is an excellent
subject for the rock gar-
den, and worthy of the award of
merit bestowed upon it by the Royal
Horticultural Society some weeks
ago. The flowers are pure white,
with a greenish yellow disc, and
borne in great profusion on stems
3 inches or 4 inches above the pros-
trate growths, with small, ovate,
entire leaves. It appears to be quite
hardy, the illustration on page 253
being taken from a plant that has
been growing on an exposed part of
the rock garden at the Botanic
Gardens, Cambridge, for the last
two winters without having been
affected in the slightest. It suc-
ceeds in a good, gritty soil, and is
readily raised from cuttings or by
divisions, and will be a great
favourite when it becomes better
known. F. G. Preston.

A BEAUTIFUL ROCK
GARDEN VIOLET.

(Viola pedata.)
This is a very beautiful, but,
at the same time, a - notoriously
difficult alpine to cultivate.
This is admitted by everyone
who has had any experience
of its cultivation. It is of no use saying that its
culture can be successfully attempted by using
any special soil or situation, although it is said
to thrive in pure sand in the higher altitudes
here, and in the lower parts the addition of some
loam and leaf-soil or peat to the sand is helpful.
It occurs to me, however, that plants are often
lost because they are given up as dead, whereas
they are only taking a long rest. On May i, on
going through the alpines in the nurseries of Messrs.
T. Kennedy and Co., Dumfries, along with Mr.
Croall, who has charge there, the latter said he was
afraid that Viola pedata, planted on a rockery

THE PERENNIAL CANDYTUFT DRAPING LARGE BOULDERS IN THE
ROCK GARDEN.

When grown in a sunny position overhangmg
rocks, it is seen to advantage, for the patches of
pure white flowers appear like drifts of snow in
the distance. The perennial Candytuft is known
botanically as Iberis seinpervirens, and the variety,
which differs but sUghtly from that species, illus-
trated on this page is known as garrexiana.
For many weeks past these bold and free-
flowering clumps have been a source of
pleasure. This subject is both hardy and ever-
green, and when once established will remain
good for years. Young plants £(re easily raised
from cuttings.

ROSE DAN AE.

HIS very pretty novelty belongs to a
group, namely, the Hybrid Musk,
that seems likely to become an impor-
tant one in the near future. Although
I do not Icnow for certain, I assume
Danae originated from Trier, crossed
probably with a yellow Polyantha. Certainly its
raiser, the Rev. J. H. Pemberton, has succeeded
in producing a very charming garden Rose, and
it is to be distributed, I believe,
by Messrs. Hobbies, Limited, in
the autumn. The perpetual-
flowering character of the Rose
will give it an extra value, and
its lovely yellow blooms will be
greatly appreciated. I have had
no opportunity so far of com-
paring the blooms of Danae with
a Rose already in commerce named
Thermidor, but I believe there
will prove to be a certain simi-
larity in the flower, although
Danae is of greater vigour. With
me Thermidor grows like a strong
dwarf Polyantha, and it is very
perpetual. I like it much, and
intend to grow it largely as a
big bedder. Of course, Danae
will be planted more as a
free bush, just as we do
Tries., and I expect it
possesses the same delightful
aromatic fragrance as the latter,
which originated with Herr Peter
Lambert. The Rev. J. H. Pem-
berton states that Danae is good in
autumn and mildew-proof. It
received a silver-gilt medal from
the National Rose Society in 191 r,
an award of merit from the Royal
Horticultural Society in September,
1912, and a first-class diploma from
the North of England Horticultural
Society in August, 1912.

Messrs. Paul and Son have
raised a very useful variety named
Queen of the Musks, which will
be welcomed for its fine bold effect
in the garden. Adrian Reverchon
hails from Trier, which is the
German town where its raiser,
Herr Peter Lambert, resides. It
is a sort of perpetual-flowering
Hiawatha of a climbing character.
This should prove valuable, and
we shall also be able to plant
around it the new Papa
Heurcray, a rather strong-growing dwarf per-
petupl Polyantha with large trusses of bloom
after the style of Hiawatha. Geheimrat Dr.
Mittweg is another of the Trier seedlings with
a very free perpetual-flowering habit, and Schiller
is yet another, having small, peach pink flowers.

It will thus be seen that the group is ex-
tending, and I for one welcome them, as they
give us a race of Roses with a lovely dis-
tinctive perfume that reminds us in autumn
of the June-time, when perhaps there are
more of these distinctly - scented varieties in
blooin, Panpcroft-

Supplement to THE GARDEN, May 24th, ini

^*

"^^.

New Perpetual Flowering Rose Danse.

Hudson S- Kciiin.i. Ltd., rrintuis, Luiidun, ^.li.

May 24, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

255

REVIEW OF THE
SPRING SHOW AT CHELSEA.

A GREAT and unqualified success In the preparation of this special number
best describes the magnificent we have been greatly assisted by various
spring show of the Royal Horti- members of the Council ; by the secretary,
cultural Society, which opened the Rev. W. Wilks ; the superintendent
at the Chelsea Hospital Grounds of the show, Mr. S. T. Wright ; Mr. Frank
on Tuesday last. Hitherto, as Reader and other ofticials, and to these we
most of our readers are aware, this exhibi- tender our best thanks. Without their
tion has been held in the gardens of the help it would have been impossible to have
Inner Temple, on the Thames Embank- placed before our readers an illustrated
ment, and it was with
considerable reluctance
that the Council had,
owing to the rapidly-
increasing number of
exhibits, to move to
the more spacious
grounds at Chelsea.
That the move was
fully justified the mag-
nificent exhibition now
under review fully
proves. The number of
exhibitors on the pre-
sent occasion is nearly
twice as many as the
largest number at any
Temple Show, and the
exhibits may fairly be
regarded as represent-
mg the highest and
best forms of
gardening. The Old
English gardens and
the rock gardens
are in themselves
beautiful features,
and the interest
taken in the former .
would lead us to believe
that there is an in-
creasing tendency;, to
revert to this form of
gardening in place of
the more natural style
that has for so long
held sway. That for-
mal gardening, as it
was known in the six-
ties of the last century,
will ever replace natu-
ral gardening we do
not for one moment believe, nor would we and comprehensive review of this magnifi- the latter, and has arranged some pretty plant

QUEEN ALEXANDRA AT THE OPENING OF THE CHELSEA SHOW

,uid pkmted with the choicest of alpine vegetation,
and, withal, so endowed for the most part with
the atmosphere of mountain plant-life that we
might be pardoned for believing them to be a true
bit of such scenery. Hence the object of their
being is achieved ; the teaching value is sound,
which, after all, is the one great reason for holding
such exhibitions at all. Our only regret is that
they are so numerous and good that we are unable
to deal with them all.
They are arranged near
the Embankment.
' Messrs. Wallace and Co.,

Colchester, who led the way
last year by raising the
finest rock garden ever seen
at an exhibition, have this
year a fine piece of rock-
work in conjunction with a
sunk garden, wall garden
and garden - house. The
latter is remarkably well
done, the old, stone-tiled
roof affording much proof
of true and thoughtful work.
A fine stretch of water, or
rock garden pool, and the
paved ways with their
complement of little things
will appeal to all. Choice
ronifers andalpines
.ibound in every direc-
tion, suitable colonies of
plants appear near the
water's edge, and anon
• Isewhere. The stone is
particularly good and
well chosen, and our
readers are directed to
rxamine it with care.
Some three thousand
square feet are devoted
to it.

Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston,
Kent, reUes rather on
the choiceness of the
material he employs than
on any elaborate piece
ot rockwork. On this
occasion, however, he has
a nice arrangement of

wish it; but there is no gainsaying the cent show in so short a time

fact that such gardens as those exhibited

by Messrs. Wallace and Carter are quite

in keeping with many old mansions. The

arranging of all pot plants and cut

flowers in one large tent is an excellent

idea, but the gangways might well have been If in rock gardenmg the great International

wider. Queen Alexandra, accompanied by Show held last year at Chelsea was in the natiure best piece of work we have seen from him. His

Princess Victoria, visited the show on the ot an " eye-opener " to all interested in this rapidly- colonising in some instances is admirable, and so

ROCK AND FORMAL
GARDENS.

colonies thereon. Of these, Helichrysum trinervis
is a fine plant and a good grower, Mthioaema
pulchellum is charming, while such as Pyxidan-
thera barbulata, Lewisias of sorts, Trilliums and
Edraianthus serpyllifolius are all things to seek for
and admire.

Mr. Clarence Elliott is near by, and has done the

opening day, and spent some time admiring
the many beautiful flowers and gardens.
In the pages that follow will be found a
review of the principal exhibits, with illus-
trations of some of the most noteworthy.

growing fascinating phase of gardening — unique, ; fine a patch as AquilegiaStuarti will need no finding;
indeed, in the annals of horticulture — the rock ' it is there, and will appeal by the great picture of
gardens to which we to-day direct our readers' ■ blue and white it creates. It is in the highest
attention will play a good second. Not a few of I degree superb, a worthy plant worthily treated,
them, indeed, are works of art, carefully arranged Next to this our readers should look for Saxifraga

256

THE GAllDEN.

[May 24, 1913.

PART OF THE BEAUTIFUL ROCK GARDEN SHOWN BY MR. J. WOOD,

BOSTON SPA.

A izoon rosea ; it is there also, deliglit fully ar-
ranged, and demonstrates rock garden group'ng
par excellence.

Messrs. R. Tucker and Sons, Oxford, are
responsible for a quite small exhibit, and things
to be looked for are Androsace arachnoidea,
Anemone alpina, A. sulphurea, the pretty Stachys
Corsica (inimitable among ceirpeters) and CEnothera
ovata.

Exactly opposite this, with, as we thought, an
all too thin dividing line, is a rock garden from
the Burton Hardy Plant Nursery, Christchurch,
and here were noted many beautiful Primulas,
not least of those being P. Lissadell Hybrid. Sedum
pilosum, too, i-^ most interesting, while Lewisia
Cotyledon, Ramondias and Cistus purpureus are
worth seeking.

Messrs. Piper and Sons, Barnes, have a much
more elaborate rock and water garden, covering
3,000 square feet, and the work is well done. At
or near the water's edge great groups of Trillium,
Cypripedium, Sarracenia and Primulas may be
seen, Funkias, too, forming handsome foliage
groups. Good bits of colour are aftorded by Primula
cockbumiana, Incarvillea grandifiora and Cam-
panula Stevenii nana, a delightful carpeting pale
blue Bellfiower. Shrubs, flowering and otherwise,
are on the banks and slopes, and add materially to
the good effect.

Messrs. Carter, Rayncs Park, are responsibi'-
for a clever piece of wall and formal gardening,
the former deftly planted with very choice things.
The one side — the main entrance we should say
— is by a hammered iron gateway from the
great avenue, and here at once visitors are in
touch with terrace garden and fountain, with
Columbines and Primulas in the shadier parts.
By steps right and left the visitor gets to the lawn
and the sumptuous borders of Azaleas, Rhodo-
dendrons, Primulas and other plants which lend
their brilliance around. The whole is delightfully
arranged, and is certainly one of the features
which must not be missed.

The Guildford Hardy Plant Nvirsery have
an admirable rock garden exhibit, and not
a few of the choicest alpines. For example,
no one should miss the rare assortment of

alpine Erodiums ; olympicum, supracanum and
chrysanthum are sonae. None can miss Celmisia
spectabihs or the mass of Incarvillea brevipes,
which is a big rival to I. grandifiora. The finest
bit of colour, howeve*, comes from the brilliant
Ourisia coccinea. The lovely patch of it is a show
in itself.

Messrs. Whitelegg and Page, Chislehurst, near
by, have a magnificent piece of work. Their new
orange yellow Geum John Bradshaw is alone a
gem, while Cotyledon spinosura, Wahlenbergia
vincasfiora and Primula cockburniana will appeal
to all. Very fine in contrasting effect are the
white Meadow Saxifrage, S. granulata plena, and
the scarlet-flowered Habranthus pratensis.

Messrs. J. Cheal and Son's formal garden and
rock garden are on the opposite side of the road-
way, the rock garden being formed in a depression.
It is full of interesting and showy subjects, and

must be entered and examined to get even a glimpse
of what it contains. Alpines, however, abound,
while choice shrubs and other thmgs play their
part in the more formal work.

Mr. Maurice Prichard, Christchurch, has an
elaborate rock garden in Purbeck limestone, though
his choicer things go to make up a bit of moraim-
gardening which is not placed on the front-door
steps. In other words, our readers must " walk
in," and Pentstemon cseruleus, Lewisias oJ sorts.
Silene Hookeri, Oxalis adenophylla and much more
will be revealed.

Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, have,
right at the entrance to their rock garden, which
is of 1. 000 square feet, a fine subject in Aster
Falconen, with Cytisus Bcanii (yellow) at its feet.
Orchises, Primulas, Cypripediums and Rodgersias
are either in the water or at its margin.

Quite on an elaborate scale will be found the rock
and water garden arranged by Messrs. Pulham and
Sons. It is admirably executed in mountain lime-
stone and suitably planted in every part. Saxi-
fraga peltata is notably good in fiower, and colonies
of Primulas may be seen in plenty.

If we say at once that the arrangement of moun-
tain limestone, covering a space of 2,000 square
feet, set up by Mr. J. Wood, Boston Spa, con-
stituted the truest imitation of Nature of any rock
garden in the whole show, it is to give our readers
a finger-post to guide them. Magnificently
weathered, designed to suit the most exacting land-
scape gardener or geologist, it is above reproach,
the array of good plants it contains appearing as
suitable garniture. True to Nature, it is, so far
as it goes, the finest thing we have seen in tljis
respect. There is great teaching value in it, and
our readers must note accordingly. ,

Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited, Feltham, have an ex-
cellent rock and water garden on a large scale. Sedum
pilosum is very fine, also white and coloured Ramon-
dias, Silene Hookeri, Cypripediums and others,

Messrs. William Cutbush and Sons, Highgate,
display particularly fine groups of Lilies, Anemone
sulphurea, Lewisia leeana, Incarvillea grandifiora.
Primula pulverulenta and the lilac-flowered Daphne
Genkwa. Lilium colchicum is very handsome and
in fine arrav.

a noble arrangement of rockwork, with waterfall,
pulham's exhibit.

IN MESSRS.

May 24, 1913.]

THE GAllDEN.

257

Messrs. Bickhouse and Sons, York, occupy
1,000 square feet, and with well-toned sandstone
liave arranged a fine piece of rock gardening.
Kamondias and Haberleas are very beautiful on
shady slopes. Anemone sulphurea is superb, and
equally so Orchis foliosa. Quite a wealth of other
good plants are to be seen, and some fine water
effects also.

The Craven Hardy Plant Nursery, Clapham,
Lancaster, will be found among those who rely
on choice plants — in this case the choicest to
associate with good rock gardening — but
they are too numerous to mention in detail.
We must, however name some — the inimit-
able Daphne rupestris, which we remember
for nearly a dozen years iu succession at
the Temple ; Ramondia NatalicD alba (ex-
quisitely beautiful). Campanula alpina, Primula
glutinosa and Ranunculus pamassifolius. Of
course, Mr. Farrer has got Edraianthus serpylli-
folius major, and by the] hundreds 01 this
occasion. It is m its prime, too,
and its trails of imperial purple are
rich indeed.

Messrs. Bees, Limited, Liverpool,
have some of the choicest new
alpincs in the show. These will be
found in the large tent high up
near the hospital end. Roscoea
cautlioides (yellow), Pentstemon
cteruleus (true). Primula secundi-
florus a wine-coloured sikkimensis,
Oxalis adenophylla, Dracocephalum
bullatum, Celmisia spectabilis
argentea and a large number of
rare Primiilas must be sought out.
They exist nowhere else.

Mr. H. Hemsley, Crawley, has a
table of interesting alpines and
shrubs, Ourisia, Onosma, Comus
canadensis and Achillea Aizoon
being good.

Mr. Reginald Prichard, West
Moors, Wimborne, will also be found
high up in the big tent revelling
in the choicest of alpines, of which
he appears a veritable purveyor. His
well-flowered mats of Campanula
Stevensii nana will never be for-
gotten if seen, nor the spreading
carpets, 18 inches in diameter,
of Helichrysum bellidioides (white
flowered), which have never before
appeared so fine. Dianthus Prichardii
is a novelty and a gem. Edraianthus
calycinus is a great rarity, and Linum capitatum
is choice.

The Misses Hopkins, Shepperton-on-Thames, have
pretty groups of alpines on rockwork. also xmder
canvas, the group being rich in Primulas, together
with Oxalis enneaphylla, Daphne Cneorum, alpine
Phloxes and the like.

Messrs. Kent and Brydon, Darlington, have
particularly good examples of Gentiana bavarica,
also a variety of Cypripediums and Primulas in
conjunction with showier things.

Messrs. Thomson and Charman, Bushey, Herts,
have a most valuable plant in Lewisia columbi-
anum. It is superbly flowered and the finest
example of the species in the show. Geum Borisi,
Campanula Stevensii nana, Viola Corsica, and good
Ramondias are worth lookmg for.

Mr. Stuart Maples, Stevenage, has a variety of
alpines on table rockwork. We believe this
exhibitor appears for the first time.

ROSES.

The sense of overcrowding so often manifest
at the Temple Shows of the past is entirely absent
at the delightful exhibition now on view at the
Chelsea Gardens, and in no respect is this more
manifest than in the grouping of the Roses. Each
exhibitor has seized his opportunity and made the
most of it, and the difficulty is to so appraise the
merits of the individual groups as to place them in
order of merit. .\s these notes are penned before
the judges' awards have been made known, we should
say that the judges cannot well pass over for
premier place the noble group from Messrs. William
Paul and Son of Waltham Cross. Mr. Miller, the
able grower, has timed his plants to a day, with
the result that we have here on view a most delight-
ful and representative group, consisting very
largely of the firm's own novelties. Huge pillars
of the White Tausendschon are to be seen alongside
the lovely and original Pink Tausendschon, and
it cannot fail to catch on as one of the best

Another notable group is that of Messrs. George
Mount and Sons, and here we have perhaps the
most perfect quality of the old standard sorts
that it is possible to conceive. Surely, not even
at Chelsea last year, were the Mrs. John Laings
of such surpassing quality as now, and they are
worth a journey to see them, even were there
nothing eUe to see in this floral Paradise. Then, the
Mrs. George Shawyers are grander than ever, and
one is not surprised our American cousins are
going crazy over this lovely Rose. Huge mounds
of Lady Pirrie, Irish Elegance, Ulrich Brunner,
Frau Kjurl Druschki, George C. Waud and Sunburst,
edged by the delightful Flower of Fairfield in small
pots, complete a very splendid group. This latter
is the perpetual form of Crimson Rambler, and as
a dwarf pot plant it far outshines all the red
Polyanthas.

Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt, have, as is
their wont, a very fine group, in which standard
weeping Roses are Jvery*proniinent. We thought

PART OV THE OLD liNGLISH GARDEN, SHOWING THE GARDEN-HOUSE, EXHIBITED BY
MESSRS. R. WALLACE AND CO. ^

ramblers hitherto produced. Another fine rambler
is Sylvia (pure white), and it is perpetual-
flowering and fragrant, most desirable attributes.
The pillar and standard ramblers are most gorgeous
in their varied tints, and consist of such fine things
as Excelsa, American Pillar, Hiawatha, Coquina,
Lady Gay, and the new Lady Blanche ; this is a
perfectly dead white, which will make it of greater
value than the so-called white sports of Dorothy
Perkins, which frequently have pinkish buds.
Of the decorative and show Roses the following
are splendid : Ophelia, Marcella, Margaret, Mrs.
Charles Hunter, Lady Downe, Dora, Juliet, Portia,
and Dr. William Gordon, all of the firm's produc-
tion ; and besides there are such notable kinds as
Rayon d'Or, Simburst, Mme. Lutaud, Souvenir
du Gustave Prat, Mrs. Foley Hobbs, Commandant
Felix Faure, Mrs. George Shawyer, PharisSer,
Entente Cordiale, Mrs. Aaron Ward, and Mme.
Maiurice de Luze.

the group a little too crowded perhaps, but yet it
contains some very choice things. The pretty
dual weeper of Milky Way and Hiawatha may suit
the taste of some individuals, but, generally,
it is not admired. George C. Waud is very
fine ; so also are Freda, Magnolia, Lady A. Stanley,
Laurent Carle, Souvenir de Gustave Prat, Mme.
Segond Weber and Marquise de Sinety.

All Rose fanciers must see the fine group of
novelties from the renowned raisers Messrs. Alex.
Dickson and Sons of Newtownards. Messrs.
Dickson have brought together one of the finest
lot of novelties they have ever put up, and it cannot
fail to be an attraction throughout the show.
Queen Mary is a lovely gem and is difficult to
describe. It has wonderful rainbow tints and such
delicious fragrance. Vema McKay is a gem of the
first water, with its amber tints and lovely elongated
buds, Carine, so sweetly fragrant ; Irish Fire-
Flame, a copper- colotired Irish Elegance ; Alexande

258

THE GAKDEK.

[May 24, 1913.

PART OF MESSRS. J. CARTER AND CO.'s OLD ENGLISH GARDEN.

Hill Gray, Duchess of Westminster, Lady Plymouth.
Mrs. Wemyss Quin, a sort of deeper Rayon d'Or ;
Mrs. Comwallis-West, Mrs. Campbell Hall, and
Mrs. Forde are other fine blooms ; while a box of
Mrs. Foley Hobbs is one of the finest things in the
whole show, one flower especially attracting the
envy of every Rose exhibitor. There are two
delightful crimson seedlings unnamed, and a
grand lemon novelty named Mary Green, which
we are likely to hear much of.

A superb group comes from Messrs. B. R. Cant
and Sons of Colchester, in which we find splendid
masses of St. Helena and Sallie, two really good
things that everyone must have. Sunbeam is a
lovely colour, reminding one of Mrs. A. R. Waddell ;
Elizabeth, Lady Reay and Rose du Barri are also
fine. Silver Moon is a charming single rambler with
huge flowers not unlike Simplicity, and one can
imagine the beauty of such a Rose when on a
pergola. Garisenda is a fine big-flowered rambler,
and Aviateur B16riot a lovely orange-coloured
wichuraiana of a most unique shade.

Messrs. Hobbies and Co. of Dereham have a
novel group, consisting largely of a pergola well
covered with ramblers. Pretty baskets add a
charm to the group, and these are filled with
some of the firm's own novelties, such as
Dewdrop and Baby Elegance. Pink Pearl is a
pretty rambler ; so also is the Double White
Rambler, a seedling of Crimson Rambler, raised by
the Rev. J. H. Pemberton. Its delicate pink buds
will be admired by many. Danae is a lovely gem
for the garden, and Miss F. Mitford, a semi-double
seedling of Rosa Brunonis, will be a good addi-
tion to garden Roses.

Messrs. Cutbush and Son of Highgate are strong
in Polyantha and rambler Roses, and a very
charming group it is, which well displays the useful-
ness of the Polyanthas as decorative subjects.
Practically all the best kinds are represented,
not in single plants, but in fifties or more. Baby
Tausendschon is lovely ; Jeanne d'Arc and Yvonne
Rabier, two fine whites ; Mrs. Cutbush, Jessie,
Ellen Poulsen, Perle d'Or andMme. N. Levavasseur
are all here ; while delightful masses of Tau-
sendschon, Dorothy Perkins, American Pillar and
Newport Fairy complete a very fine group.

Messrs. George Beckwith and Sons of Hoddesdon
have a group that we venture to say will be a centre
of attraction, for it contains some fine masses of
the sensational Rose Mme. Edouard Herriot, which,
as all the world knows, is one of the latest introduc-
tions of M. Pernet-Ducher. Willowmere, the im-
proved Lyons Rose, is also shown in great force,
and it is certain to become a favourite ; while a
vase of Cissie Easlea portrays what a grand nov?lty
we have in this variety of the Pernetiana class.
A number of pots of Papa Hemeray is a pretty
feature of this group. It is like a large flower of
Hiawatha, only of dwarf growth and perpetual.

Messrs. Frank Cant and Co. have a sumptuous
group of good things, including many fine show
blooms. Lady Alice Stanley, Mrs. John Laing,
Mrs. George Shawyer, Richmond, Mrs. D. Jardine,
and Lady Roberts are very fine, and there are
numerous kinds to be found in smaller quantities.
The quality is excellent throughout this fine
group.

Mr. Charles Turner of Slough has a very elegant
group of standard weepers, with a groundwork of
Polyanthas. Some grand examples of Coronation
and Ethel display what two fine novelties
we have here in ramblers, and so perfectly
distinct.

Messrs. Low and Co. have a pretty group, chiefly
in Bamboo stands, and the quality is excellent.
Lady Hillingdon, Molly Sharman Crawford, Lady
Pirrie, Sunburst, Joseph Hill and Mrs. George
Shawyer are very lovely.

Mr. George Prince of Oxford has huge mounds of
ramblers and Polyanthas, and if we miss his glorious
Tea Roses, we must wait until the outdoor crop
comes on for these. A grand mass of Hiawatha
is most showy, and American Pillar, Blush Rambler,
Lady Godiva and White Dorothy are also fine,
together with Ellen Poulsen, Jeanne d'Arc and
other good Polyanthas.

Messrs. Robichon of Orleans are showing a yellow
seedling after the Rayon d'Or type, but not nearly
so good and certainly not wanted.

Messrs. A. J. and C. Allen of Norwich have a
small but attractive group of good things, and
perhaps the Rayon d'Or here are as good as any
in the show.

Messrs. R. J. Barnes and Son of Malveni have a
small collection of very good flowers.

Mr. Walter Easlea of Danecroft Rosery, East-
wood, Leigh-on-Sea, has a very pretty group of
his new Polyantha Rose Susie, a charming
peach pink flower of delightful form. It will
certainly prove a worthy addition to this popular
class.

Outside, in the grounds, many of the exhibitors
of sundries are freely employing Rambler Roses,
perhaps the best exhibit being that of Messrs.
William Wood and Son. The ramblers here show
up grandly against the pergola columns, and cannot
fail to give a stimulus to this class of plant, if any
were required, and we shall all welcome the day
when raisers produce some really perpetual-
flowering forms that are equal in every respect to
the superb varieties now in commerce which are.
unfortunately, summer-flowering only, or at least
the majority of them. We can safely assert that,
were there nothing but Roses at this grand
show, they would be well worth the journey
to see, and our hope is that the exhibition wilt
prove a huge success, for probably no finer
show of mainly British productions has ever-
been placed before the public.

STOVE AND GREENHOUSE
PLANTS.

Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea,
exhibit a splendid group, consisting for the main
part ot stove foliage plants, lit up by the bright
tints of the Crotons and Caladiums. A choice
collection of flowering subjects is also associated
therewith, prominent among them being Kalanchoe
flammea, Anthuriums in variety, and an extremely
choice selection of Orchids. Of the foliage plants
especial mention may be made of Croton Dayspring,.
F. Sander, Golden Ring and Baron A. de Roth-
schild. Two particularly striking subjects are-
Cy anophyllum magnificum and Coccoloba pubescens,.
this last having large, almost round leaves of a
firm, leathery texture. In another place Messrs.
Veitch are showing a charming selection of green-
house flowering plants, notably Cinerarias in great
variety. Gloxinias, Streptocarpus, Calceolaria,
Clibranii, Streptosoleu Jamesonii and Elsocarpus.
reticulatus, which they grow well. There is a
fine and representative group of their strain of
Hippeastrums, for which they are justly famous,,
and disposed above these are a number of cordon-
trained plants of Fuchsias, which serve to show
the snitabihty of these plants for training to the
roof of a greenhouse.

Messrs. E. Webb and Sons, Wordsley, Stour-
bridge, make a very imposing display of different
flowering subjects raised from seed. Against
one side of the tent they have huge hemispherical
groups of Calceolarias, Cineraria stellata, Schi-
zanthus. Begonias, with Petunias, Gloxinias, hybrid
Impatiens, Salvias and others.

Messrs. Sutton and Sons of Reading have a very
fine exhibit, the plants composing it being arranged
in several beds. Particularly noticeable are the
Reading strain of Cineraria stellata, as well as a
pleasing variety known as Reading Gem. A bed
of Schizanthus includes the finest forms in the
entire genus, while all that can be said of the
Nemesias, Stocks, Begonias, Primula obconica
and Gloxinias is that they all well uphold the
great reputation that the firm enjoys. The central
figure of their group is a mass of Clarkias, among,
which the variety Firefly is in its way unsurpassed

May 24, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

259

Messrs. James Carter and Co. of Holborn and
RajTies Park also show a group of flowering
plants that can readily be raised from seed. Their
principal feature is a magnificent display of Cine-
rarias, though the Gloxinias and Stocks are also
very fine. The beautiful rich green of the turf in
which the flowers are set serves to enhance their
beauty. This same remark also applies to Messrs.
Sutton's exhibit.

A large and varied collection of flowering plants
comes from Messrs. Stuart Low and Co. of Bush
Hill Park, Enfield. Included among them are many
Heaths, Boronias, Aphelexis and other hard-wooded
plants, while towering above them are tall plants
of Acacia pulchella and standard specimens of the
Bottle-Brush Flower, Callisteraon saUgnus, better
known as Metrosideros floribunda. Other notable
features of Messrs. Low's exhibit are some splendid
blue Hydrangeas, Gerbera hybrids, the distinct and
pleasing Araucaria Silver Star, and Leptospermum
scoparium NichoUii, which was given a first-class
certificate last year at the " International."

Messrs. William Cutbush and Sons of Highgate
also show a varied group, consisting of hardy
Azaleas and Rhododendrons, with a great number
of greenhouse flowering plants. The dominant fea-
ture of this exhibit is the collection of Hydrangeas,
of which many varieties are shown, including some
of the latest kinds. One bearing the outrageously
long name of Generale Vicomtesse de Vibraye is
remarkable from the fact that, though naturally
ot a bright rose colour, it acquires a more decided
blue tint than any other Hydrangea. Messrs.
Cutbush have a preparation of their own, known as
" Azure," for turning Hydrangeas blue, and the con-
dition of those shown says much for its effectiveness.

Messrs. Charles Turner and Sons of Slough show
some Indian Azaleas trained in the strictly pyra-
naidal manner that was at one time so popular.
They are interesting as showing the way in which
these plants were in the olden days largely grown.
Arranged with some bush plants, Malmaison
Carnations and Ferns, a very pretty effect is
produced.

Messrs. John Peed and Sons, Roupell Park Nur-
series, Streatham, show a fine collection of very
large specimens of Caladiums. Prominent among
them are Triomphe de Comte, bright red ; Candi-
dum, white ; King George, rose, freckled red ;
Diamantina, white, green and red ; and John
Peed, rich red. Besides the Caladiums, Messrs.
Peed contribute a large and representative group
of their noted strain of Streptocarpus.

Scented-leaved Pelargoniums are certainly making
great headway in popular favour. Miss Troyte
Bullock, North Coker House, Yeovil, Somerset,
has a collection of no fewer than 140 distinct
varieties, a fact of which she may justly feel proud.

From Aldenham House Gardens comes another fine
collection, which, though more limited in numbers,
makes an imposing show, owing to the plants being
all good-sized bushes in pots 7 inches or 8 inches
in diameter. In this collection some seventy or
eighty varieties are shown.

Rolls Hoare, Esq., West Grinstead Park, Sussex,
also contributes a good collection of this class of
Pelargoniums, about a hundred being represented
among them. In all the exhibits the bulk of the
plants are in flower.

Pelargoniums of the Zonal and Ivy-leaved
sections are shown in great variety by Mr. H. J.
Jones, Limited, Hither Green Nurseries. Lewisham.
The plants shown are good examples of cul-
ture, and a choice selection might easily be made
from those shown.

As usual, Messrs. Godfrey and Sons, Exmouth,
are staging a large number of decorative Pelar-
goniums, which they grow so well. The variety
among them is great, and their dwarf habit and
profusion of flowering are all that can be desired.
Numerous other plants are shown by this Exmouth
firm, notably a beautiful salmon pink bedding
Pelargonium, Duchess of Cornwall, and the New
Zealand Veronica hulkeana, whose lavender-
coloured flowers are borne in great profusion.

A imique exhibit is that from Mr. Bruce, The
Nurseries, Chorlton-cum-Hardy, Manchester. It
consists of a group of insectivorous plants, mainly
consisting of Sarracenias, though there are others.
One pan of Dion sea muscipula is very striking.
Many of the Sarracenias are splendid examples,
perhaps the most striking of all being S. Willmottae,
a hybrid kind. Lightness is imparted to this
group by a free use of Palms and Eulalias. A
charming little creeping melastomaceous plant,
Heeria elegans, with carmine red flowers, is freely
represented in this group.

Mr. L. R. Russell of Richmond has a collection
of choice Caladiums shown as small plants, arranged
several together in large pans. In this way,
looked at from above, they are most attractive.
The new Flora Russell, a crimson-leaved variety,
is especially noteworthy. .Associated with the
Caladiums are other choice stove plants, par-
ticularly Marantas, Alocasias and several examples
of Nidularium Meyendorfii, remarkable for the
brilliant colour of the central leaves.

The pigmy trees from Messrs. Barr and Sons
are, as usual, much admired by those on the look-
out for something away from the common. Though
many of them are hardy, in their pigmy forms
they need the protection of a greenhouse, or, at
all events, a situation where they are protected
from harsh and drying winds.

Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon, Twerton Hill
Nurseries, Bath, have an exhibit that well upholds
their world-wide reputation for tuberous-rooted
Begonias. When so many beautiful kinds are
shown, it is difficult to make a selection, but the
following cannot be passed over : Princess Victoria
Louise, which was last year given an award of
merit, pale salmon pink ; Duchess of Cornwall,
dark crimson ; Rose Queen, rich rose ; W. Marshall,

scarlet ; and Mrs. Thornton, white. The sturdy
growth and erect flowers of the recent kinds show
quite a wide departure from the tuberous varieties
of old. Besides these, Messrs. Blackmore and
Langdon are showing a new basket variety, Mrs.
Bowers, whose blossoms are of a delightful shade
of reddish salmon. It will prove a desirable
addition to this valuable class. Two semper-
florens hybrids. Carmen and Pink Beauty, are
doubtless destined to be soon much better known.

Messrs. Thomas S. Ware, Limited, Feltham,
have long been identified with the improvements
in the tuberous Begonia, and their present exhibit
is one of the best. It mainly consists of double-
flowered varieties, with blooms as perfect as one
may desire. Among the best are Countess Cadogau,
orange ; Mrs. Justice Hodges, cream, red picotee
edge ; Lady Ebury, deep rose ; Captain Lafone,
pink, much crisped ; and W. G. Valentine, scarlet.
Lady Cromer, one of the finest of the tuberous-
rooted Begonias ever raised, and for which we
are indebted to Messrs. Ware, is, as might be
expected, very finely shown in their group.

Messrs. Robert Veitch and Son, Exeter, show a
pretty and interesting group of Calceolarias, all
raised by them. Prominent in this exhibit is
the pretty cream-coloured, vigorous-growmg C.
Veitchii, which was given an award of merit last
year at the " International."

A fine lot of Calceolarias of the herbaceous
section is contributed by the Rev. H. Buckston,
Sutton Hall, Derby, the flowers being particularly
good and the colours well varied.

From Mrs. V. A. Litkie, Clarefield, Pinkneys
Green, Maidenhead, comes a noble circular group
of Calceolarias. The centre consists of large plants
of C. Clibranii or protusa, emd around the margin
are beautiful specimens of members of the herba-
ceous section. Occupying the intermediate space
are a nimibcr of crosses between the herbaceous
kinds and C. Clibranii. These are in habit, size
and colour of the flowers about midway between
their parents, and are a decidedly promising lot.

Mr. Charles Tiurner, Slough, contributes a small
but interesting group of Pelargoniums, among them
being representatives of the show, decorative and
fancy classes. These last were at one time extremely
popular, but are now very rarely seen, their lack

A. PORTION OF THE ROSE GROUP SHOWN BY MESSRS. STUART LOW AND CO.

260

THE GAKDEN.

[May 24, 1913

of size being against them, according to present-day
ideas.

From Mr. Victor Slade, Taimton, Somerset,
comes a quantity of cut blooms of Zonal Pelar-
goniums, consisting of both single and double
kinds. A , nod and representative collection.

In a gri 1, mainly consisting of Carnations',
shown by J. D. Webster, Chichester, is a

magnificent ^jt of cut flowers of Richardia Pent-
landii, which shows that their cultural requirements
are well understood.

Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, Kent,
fill one of the tables with a selection of choice
flowering subjects. Prominent among them are
Calceolaria Clibranii (very much in evidence at the
present exhibition), Schizanthus (a very fine strain).
Pelargoniums of different sorts, but mainly of the
decorative section, and herbaceous Calceolarias,
the whole being finished ofi with a fringe of loose-
growing Lobelias, which serve to
prevent any bareness at the front.
Good plants of GrevUlea robust a
also serve to take off any stiffness
or formality.

From Messrs. Kent and Brydon.
Darlington, comes a splendid bank
of Lily of the Valley, both the
foliage and the flowers being
equally fine.

Aug. Ph. Brandt, Esq., Bletch-
ingley Castle, Surrey, contributes
a fine bank of decorative Pelar-
goniums, the selection being good,
and the condition of the plants
leaves nothing to be desired.

A miscellaneous collection of
plants shown by Mr. G. Reuthe,
Keston, Kent, is made up of a
great variety of different subjects,
some being hardy shrubs and
many of a half-hardy character.
Prominent in the exhibit are a
great many different Rhododen-
drons, both Himalayan species
and various garden hybrids.

The collection of Hippeastrums
or Amaryllis set up by Messrs.
R. P. Ker and Sons, Aigburth
Nurseries, Liverpool, are represen-
tative of their well-lcnown strain.
Prominent in the exhibit are the
following varieties : Magnificent
(chocolate red, shading to white
at the edges). Lord Roberts
(orange scarlet, light centre).
Magenta Queen (bright carmine rose), and Rosy
May (deep reddish rose, shad'ng t^ white at
the edge).

Messrs. H. B. May and Sons of Edmonton are
showing a varied collection of flowering plants
which they do so well. Among them are Pelar-
goniums (including that scented-leaved variety
Clorinda), Salvias, Lobelias, Heliotrope, &c.
Foliage plants include a co lection of Coleus and
of tricolor-leaved Pelargon. urns, which last are
very rarely seen nowadays. Standards, too, now
so popular, are represented by Salvias, Lemon-
scented Verbena, Fuchsias and Pelargoniums.

a very high state of culturf. The bulk of the
exhibit is made up of large specimens such as one
rarely sees, and these of many of the choicest
kinds. Of those that may be especially noted are
Davallias (quite a representative collection), Stag's-
horn Ferns (of which the same may be said),
Polypodium Knightas, Polypodium Vidgenii (which
was given an award of merit a year ago) and Poly-
podium glaucura crispum (remarkable for its beauti-
ful glaucous tint). There is a fine group of that
mossiest of all the mossy varieties of Nephrolepis
exaltata, namely, Willmottae, which was last year
given a first-class certificate. A plant ot the
interesting Nephrolepis Marshallii compacta, which
before the advent of WillmottEe was regarded as the
extreme form, is shown for the purpose of com-
parison. The fine plants of Lygodium also form
a notable feature in Messrs. May's collection. The
said group is edged with a representative selection

Mr. Amos Perry of Enfield contributes a fine
group of hardy Ferns, many of which for beauty
vie with the choicest exotic kinds. The beautiful
leafage of all those shown forms a very striking
feature. The different varieties of Athyrium
Felix-foemina, Polystichum angulare and Osmund?
regalis are particularly fine.

FERNS.

ASTER PURDOMII, A NEW DWARF SPECIES FROM NORTHERN CHINA
SHOWN BY MESSRS. J. VEITCH AND SONS.

of the finest hardy Ferns, a class whose culture is
now largely taken up at Edmonton. Not only is
such an exhibit of great beauty in itself, but the
masses of greenery serve as a foil to the bright-
coloured flowers in close proximity.

Messrs. Hill of Edmonton, whose fame as Fern-
growers is widespread, are showing a steep bank of
very beautiful forms, disposed in an extremely
pleasing manner. The Gleichenias in this collec-
tion are very striking, as also are the Davallias,
Platyceriums, Polypodium Knightas, Polypodium
glaucum crispum and Polypodium Schneideri.

Mr. W. A. Manda, New Jersey and St. Albans,
make a feature of his beautiful new Fern
Polypodium mandaianum, which made its first
appearance at the " International," and was given a
first-class certificate later on at Holland Park. It
is in every way an ideal decorative Fern for large
ipecimens, the spreading fronds being of a firm

The exhibit of Ferns staged by Messrs. H. B.
May and Sons of Edmonton is well worthy of their

great reputation, fully 1,000 square feet b?ing filled I leathery texture that enables them to resist draughts
with choice examples, every one of which shows I well

ORCHIDS.

It is to the Orchids that many visitors make
their way on entering the exhibition gates. There
is a wonderful display to be seen, for leading growers
from all parts of the coimtry are showing, and the
quality of the flowers is better than ever. High
banks of gorgeous Orchids create colour-schemes
of bewildering beauty. Among the newer varieties
Odontiodas are well to the fore, while Miltonias,
which eight or ten years ago were
thought little of, are now favourites
among the Orchid-loving public.

A collection of Cattleya hy-
brids, in perfect condition, comes
from Lieutenant-Colonel Sir George
Holford, K.C.V.O., Westonbirt,
Gloucestershire. Large pans of
the lovely Cattleya Skinneri and
innumerable Brasso - Cattleyas,
such as digbyano-Mossis and Mme.
Hye, with broad, fimbriated lips
are among the features of the
gorgeous display. We have
learnt to expect great things from
Westonbirt, and there is no cause
for disappointment. Every plant
is a picture, and the whole ot
this extensive group does credit to
Mr. Alexander, the ardent and
successful cultivator.

Messrs. Charlesworth and Co.,
Hayward's Heath, have quite
surpassed themselves in the mag-
nificent group they are showing.
Miltonias form a strong feature,
and the rise in popularity of
these flowers is due in a great
measure to the efforts of this
enterprising firm. Odontiodas are
exceptionally fine, notably Queen
Mary and Enchantress — two of
the very best in the whole
exhibition. A wide range of
Cattleya hybrids, together with
Odontoglossums and Cymbidiums.
are prominent in this truly grand and in evcrv
way creditable display.

Messrs. Mansell and Hatcher, Rawdon, Yorks,
have an extensive collection, in which most Orchids
in season are represented. The Cattleya hybrids
are worthy of special note, while the gems among
Miltonias, Odontoglossums and Odontiodas arouse
the admiration of ^11 visitors.

Messrs. Stuart Low and Co. have a brilliant
display, including Cattleyas, Dendrobiums,
Phalaenopsids and Oncidiums in all colours con-
ceivable. The centre of this brilliant group is
mainly occupied by the highly-attractive Renanthera
imschootiana, of orange scarlet hue.

Messrs. J. and A. McBean of Cooksbridge are
showing Odontoglossum crispum in remarkably
good form, also Cattleya hybrids in exquisite
colours, interspersed with a variety of Cymbidiums
in long, arch'ng sprays. About sixty plants of
Miltonias, including the bright ."Augusta, are shown
in this group.

May 24, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

261

Mr. Harry Dixon, Spencer Park Nursery, Wands
worth Common, is showing Cattleyas, Odonto-
glossums and Miltonias in great variety. Among
his best plants are LeeUo - Cattleya dominiana,
a wonderful variety of L.-C. G. S. Ball and two
albino Cattleyas, C. Skinneri alba and C. inter-
media alba.

Messrs. J. Cypher and Sons, Cheltenham, are
represented by a magnificent bank of such Orchids
as Miltonia vexillaria in variety, Phalaenopsis
riraestadiana, Laelia Latona, Renanthera imschooti-
ana and Dendrobium Thwaitess. A little batch of
the orange scarlet Masdevallia grandiflora is a
showy feature of the bright and interesting display.

Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albajis, have quite
excelled themselves with their intensely interesting
and well-staged group, in which Odontoglossums,
choice Cattleyas, Phala'nopsids, Cymbidiums and
Miltonias are mingled one with the other. Among
the gems of the collection are Odontioda
Laelia Sander, O. Roger Sander, and Brasso-
Cattleya vilmoriniana Etna. The choice collection
of Odontiodas is the outstanding feature of this
group.

From Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart., Gatton Park.
Surrey, comes an admirable display, in which fiiie
spikes of Odontoglossum crispum Mary Colnian and
other varieties are mingled with the orange-toTicd
Odontiodas, such as Bradshawiae and Gatton
Queen. The effect is charming. A fine lot of
Miltonias and Cattleyas are included in this group.

In Messrs. Hassall and Co.'s group from South-
gate may be seen an admirable collection of Mil-
tonias, Odontoglossums and a perfect specimen
plant of the albino Cattleya Skinneri alba. La;lio-
Cattleya Phoebe is likewise well shown.

Mr. Sidney W. Flory, Twickenham, sends
Cattleyas and Odontoglossums in great variety.
Trichopilia hennesiana, with ivory white flowers,
and Cochlioda noetzliana, with vivid orange
scarlet inflorescences, are two of the gems among
the species shown.

Messrs. Armstrong and Brown, Tunbridge Wells
have an extensive and highly creditable group,
comprising Miltonias, Cattleyas, Cypripediums,
Odontiodas and Phalsnopsis. Coelogyne dayana,
with pendulous chains of brownish flowers, is
conspicuous in the background. Odontioda Chanti-
cleer and Miltonia vexillaria G. D. Owen are two
gems not to be overlooked.

Odontoglossum crispum and Cattleya Mossia?
in variety are the features of the group sent by
Mr. C. F. Waters, Balcombe, Sussex. Large
batches of Miltonia vexillaria are likewise included
in this group.

SWEET PEAS.

The season of the year is not one at which it
can reasonably be anticipated that Sweet Peas
will be shown in that profusion and perfection
which characterise them in the prime of summer.
The flowers are from plants grown under glass ;
and from the fact that such protection is afforded
it may be thought that the weather would be
controlled, but such can never be the case. The
present spring has undoubtedly been unpropitious,
and it is therefore the more pleasing to be able to
place on record the fact that many blooms of wonder-
ful quality — quality spelling richness and purity
of colour, excellence of substance, refinement of
form, graceful placing on the stem and ample
length of stalk — is to be seen in the Royal Hospital
Grounds at Chelsea. Individual exhibitors are less
numerous than might have been expected, but

the conspicuous absentees were away under the
compulsion of the weather, over which, happily,
none of us has the least control. They were com-
pelled to withdraw, and their absence can only be
described as a loss to the show, magnificent and
varied as the display is as a whole.

Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh, did not
exhibit Sweet Peas from North of the Border,
but from the metropolitan county of Essex. It is
impossible adequately to praise them without
being accused of gross exaggeration, so it shall
suffice to say that they would have done credit
to an exhibition in any centre of the British Isles
in July. Qualitv and colour are emphasised by
excellent arrangement. Along the back are plants
8 feet high in 6-inch pots, and in the foreground
are superb bunches of many varieties. Of the new
ones, personal taste will decide which is the most
beautiful, and probably the most votes will go to
Mrs. Mcllwrick, of which the standard is rose
and the wings a peculiar shade of blue. A refined
beaut V is Blue Pici'tee, with the finest thread of

P. Wright, Elfrida Pearson, .Apple Blossom Spencer
and Etta Dyke.

Essex is to the fore in a small group from Messrs.
E. W. King and Co., Coggeshall, and the feature
that most promptly strikes one is the quality
of the varieties to which the prefix of Anglian
is attached. There are Crimson, Pink, Blue,
Orange and Fairy, not to mention Royalty, of
wfiich no mere man could reasonably be expected
to describe the colour with even approximate
correctness. Another beauty is Mrs. Reginald
Hill, a warm lavender, while Princess Mary and
Electric are both charming colours.

Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, have a varied
and delightful exhibit, and among the most beauti-
ful features of which it is comprised is the collec-
tion of Sweet Peas — brilliant in colour, perfect
in size, substance and form, and artistically
displayed. Especially fine are Avalanche, Royal
Rose, Helen Grosvenor, Queen of Norway and
Doris Usher. Little, if at all, inferior are Mrs.
Heslington, Constance Oliver, Mrs. W. J. Unwin,

A PORTION OF MESSRS. DOBBIE AND CO. S SWEET PEA EXHIBIT.

colour round the white ; while King White will
probably reign for long. Among the other beauties
are Dobbie's Scarlet, Dobbie's Cream, Dobbie's
Lavender George Herbert, with Ruby Palmer,
Melba, Thomas Stevenson, Sunproof Crimson,
Lady Miller, May Campbell, Mrs. Cuthbertson,
Elfrida Pearson, Decorator, Brunette, Inspector,
Marks Tey, Elsie Herbert. Rosabelle, New Marquis
and Charles Foster.

Robert Sydenham, Limited, Tenby Street,
Birmingham, appear to have a rule in respect to
their exhibits, of which the substance is that quantity
must be subservient to quality. In the present
instance the group of Sweet Peas is not extensive,
but it has the merit of cheerfulness of colour and
attractiveness of arrangement. The flowers are
not conspicuous for size, neither are they carried
on stems 2 feet or more in length, but they lose
nothing on these scores. The most attractive
varieties are Hercules, Barbara. Edith Taylor,
Princess Mary, R. F. Felton, Maud Holmes, Walter

Charles Foster and Dragonfly, which is peculiar
in colour, the standard being very pale buS and
the wings rose veined.

The only other exhibitor of Sweet Peas is Miss
Hemus, Upton-on-Severn, who has a small exhibit.

HERBACEOUS & BULBOUS
PLANTS.

Bv far the most beautiful, as it is also the
most imposing and sumptuous of groups occiuring
under this head is that of Lilies arranged by
Messrs. Wallace and Co. of Colchester, which
will be found in the large tent. It is rich in Lilies
and teems with the best of them, and, moreover,
they will be found in admirable condition, despite
the fact that they have been forced into bloom.
The more worthy of these are Hansonii (orange),
Brownii, monadelphum (szovitzianum), the rare
Trumpet Lily, L. myriophyllum, and the inimitable
L. Krameri. These latter are really admirable,

262

THE GARDEN.

[May 24. 1913,

and should be seen by all. Dalmaticiun, Dal-
hansonii and tenuifolium Golden Gleam are other
good things to be found in this group, the accom-
paniments being Astilbes, Irises, Gladioli and the
like.

Mr. Amos Perry has brought from Enfield a
superb lot of things, and quite in the forefront will
be found a rare grouping of Tree Paeonies, the
finest of which is Louise Monchelet, a delightful
pink of satiny hue. Irises of many sections are
here, too, and such as I. Korolkowii purpurea,
I. vaga and I. tenax will be noted at once. Two
representatives of the Regho-cyclus group are
worth noting, I. Hesperia and I. Hecate. There
are many other fine things to be seen.

Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, Dover,
display a fine lot of Astilbe Davidii, Pyrethruras,
Primulas, Irises, Verbascums. Eremuri and other
things of the showier class, good border plants
withal.

In the group from Messrs. Jackman and Sons,
Woking, there will be found many showy and
useful subjects, Delphiniums, Paeonies, Verbascums,
Astilbes, Lilies in variety, Cypripediums of sorts,
the pretty Iris cristata and a fine lot of Oxalis
enneaphylla.

The group from Mr. James Box, Lindfield,
Sussex, will be found high up in the large tent,
adjacent to a large collection of Ferns. It contains
many excellent border and choice rock plants.
The background of Bamboos is faced with Anchusa
Opal and the rich blue of the Delphinium Lamar-
tine, which is in capital form. Of choice Primulas
there will be seen bulleyana, Lissadell hybrids,
beesiana and luteola. Incarvillea brevipes and
I. grandiflora are notably good, and should be noted
by our readers. The white-flowered Delphinium
Progression — a novelty withal — is also worth
noting. Anemone coronaria Rouge Ponceau is of
wondrous scarlet colour.

Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea,
are showing Eremuri, a fine lot of Pentstemon
Menziesi, together with Geum Mrs. Bradshaw,
Pyrethrums, Irises, Lilies and the new Aster
Purdomii (see illustration page 260).

Messrs. Artindale and Son, Sheffield, have
some excellent Tree Peonies, early Gladiolus,
Megaseas and a gay gathering of Violas in many
varieties.

In the group from Mr. W. H. Rogers, Southamp-
ton, some fine Primulas will be found, also the
brilliant scarlet-flowered Ourisia coccinea and the
inimitable Omphalodes Luciliie. Corydalis nobilis
and the Delphiniums will not, of course, be passed
by.

Messrs. Storrie and Storrie have one of their fine
exhibits of Auriculas and Polyanthuses, the vigour
and floriferousness of which will not fail to be
admired. The strains of both, too, are excellent,
and Scotland's air seems to imbue these things
with new life.

Messrs. Whitelegg and Page, Chislehurst, have
fine baskets of Primula Veitchii, Habranthus
pratensis, Aubrietias, with a delightful lot of
Primula pulverulenta and P. cockbumiana.

The very fine groups — for there are two — of
herbaceous Phloxes from Messrs. Gunn and Sons,
Birmingham, are among the brightest features
of the great tent. Messrs. Gunn are excellent
cultivators of these plants, and they now show them
very finely. Elizabeth Campbell (scarlet), Duchess
of Wellington (mauve), Le Mahdi, Ellen Willmott
(mauve), Fran Antonie Buchner (purest white)
and Countess of Ilchester (orange scarlet) will be
found among the most distinct. Viola Moseley

Perfection is a great thing in yellow-flowered
varieties.

Quite in the opening of the large tent from the
Embankment side will be found the sumptuous
grouping of Delphiniums, Tree Paeonies, P>Te-
thrums, GaUlardias and yellow Lupines from
Messrs. Kelway, Langport. We have frequently
observed that it is better to display a few
plants in good condition than to show a whole
army of things, meaningless, dowdy in colour,
and of no significance. Messrs. Kelway are doing
the former, the result being a very fine display.

Mr. Frank Lilley, Guernsey, has one of those
attractive groups which at this early season of the
year only this favoured island can show. Sparaxis,
Irises, Camassias and other things will be found.

Messrs. Reamsbottom and Co., Geashill, King's
County, have one of their fine displays of St. Brigid
.Anemones, and the great variety of colour, cheap-
ness and easiness of culture should tempt thousands
to grow these showy flowers.

Mr. W. Lawrenson, Yarm-on-Tees, is staging
on a table space in the big tent a variety of hybrid
Primulas ; but from either the day, the sunlessness
or covering canvas, we failed to see any advance
upon well-known kinds.

From Dr. Macwatt, Morelands, Duns, N.B.,
may be seen basket groups of many Primulas,
the majority interesting rather to the botanist
than to the gardener. Duns, we had hoped, would
follow Edinburgh's lead and demonstrate to resi-
dents in southern gardens how much elevation,
northerliness and coolness are to these plants. Dr.
Macwatt's exhibits do not demonstrate these
things. The inimitable P. glutinosa is better from
Mr. Farrer ; the free-flowering P. Veitchii is superior
everywhere. Hence we enquire, after all, Is it
cultural skill, and not position or locality ?

Mr. G. Underwood, Leicester, also shows Violas.
The Wargrave Plant Farm, Twyford, have a small
rockery exhibit under canvas, and at least two things
should attract our readers thereto. They are
Cypripedium montanum and <Ethioneraaschistosum,
a pretty, pink-flowered plant for rockwork or
alpine wall. Ourisia coccinea and Gentiana verna
will also be found very charming.

Baker's, Wolverhampton, will be found to have a
rather extensive grouping of Primulas, Meconopsis
cambrica fl. - pi., Cypripedium spectabile and
Incarvillea grandiflora. The plants will le seen
in groups suggestive of what may be done in the
garden.

VIOLAS AND PANSIES.

A very bright and attractive display of Violas
and Violettas is shown by Mr. Howard H. Crane,
Woodview, Highgate, N., embracing many of
the leading bedding sorts, to which this grower
especially devotes his attention. Among other
good Violas are May, Liuggi, Royal Sovereign,
Mrs. E. A. Cade, Constance, Leonora and Mrs. B.
Eric Smith (all noteworthy yellow sorts). Admiral
of the Blue and Royal Blue (rich blue varieties),
and others of various colours are Nellie Chapman,
Lark, Nancy (velvety), Ruth Wilks, Nellie Harston,
C. B. Murray, Mrs. Chichester, Swan and
Maggie Mott. Pretty Violettas are Eileen,
Cliloris, Yellowhammer, Butterfly, Cynthia and
Rock Yellow.

Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh, have a
number of Pansies and Violas growing in pans,
illustrating their true character in this way. Good
sorts of Violas are Jubilee, Lord Shaw, Royal
Sovereign, Snowflake, King Cup and Blue Cloud.

The fancy Pansies are fine, some being very striking.
Noteworthy varieties are Unicom, Sunburst,
Emma Bateman, Mrs. C. Kay, John Picken and
Attraction. Viola Moseley Perfection is shown as
growing plants lifted and placed in baskets. This
is a wonderful yellow Viola. Other sorts are
Admiral of the Blue and Agnes Kay. There is
also a beautiful lot of Viola cornuta purpurea and
V. gracilis. This last series is exhibited by Messrs.
Gunn and Sons, Olton, Warwickshire.

John Forbes, Hawick, Limited, in addition
to several other things, has a capital display of
Violas and Pansies. Exhibition and bedding
Violas are represented by the following, among
others ; Campbell Bcinnerman, Mrs. D, Davidson,
W. H. Woodgate, Mary Burnie, William Daniels,
John Forbes, Glencoe, James Pilling, Blanche and
Purity.

Mr. George Underwood, Leicester, has a small
group of the more popular Violas, showing three
blooms each of a number of good sorts. Walter
Welsh (rich yellow), John Smellie, Dusky Monarch,
Gladys Finlay, A. S. Frater, Nettie Macfadyen,
Admiral of the Blues and Henry Hamilton are
conspicuous. Viola cornuta purpurea is shown in
glass vases on three semi-circular arrangements
in front of the exhibit.

A new exhibitor in the person of Mr. W. R.
Tranmer, Alma Nurseries, Cottingham, Hull, '
stages Violas in sprays with appropriate foUage.
Here are to be seen well-known sorts in fresh con-
dition, such as G. C. Murray, Mrs. Chichester,]
Moseley Perfection, Maggie Mott, White Swan and!
Archie Grant ; also Viola cornuta purpurea,!
V. c. alba and V. c. variety Fragrance Queen.

Mr. G. W. Miller, Wisbech, stages with his hardyl
flowers a number of Violas ; Royal Blue, Moseleyl
Perfection, Seagull and Bridal Mom are their names.|
He has also Viola cornuta and its varieties, which
are well shown,

Messrs. Carter Page and Co., London Wall, E.C.,|
in addition to Dahlias and other things, have an!
interesting collection of Violas in fresh and cleanl
condition, set up in pans of sand. Mrs. C. F.l
Gordon, Maggie Mott, Kathleen Gordon, Mrs.|
Airdrie, Kitty Bell, Moseley Perfection, Bronze:
Kintore, Swan and Archie Grant are some of the|
more distinct kinds.

Messrs, W, Artindale and Son, Sheffield, Yorks,!
have edged their group of hardy flowers with a|
number of Violas planted out in Cocoa-nut fibre!
in irregular colonies. The more striking sorts!
are Margaret Wood, J. H. Watson, Kathleen,
Minnie J. Ollar, Admiral of the Blue, A. S.i
Frater, Countess of Eglinton and Gladys Finlay, and!
with Viola cornuta purpurea makes a nice finish.

Messrs. Gunn and Sons have a pretty circularl
group of Viola cornuta purpurea, set up in tubes!
in a cut state, making a mass, and contrasting with I
several Saxifrages in the centre of the group. I
This is a very simple but charming little display.
Masses of Violas form an irregular and pretty J
edging to Messrs. Ware's group of hardy flowers.
Here are massed in colours such sorts as Royal I
Sovereign, Maggie Mott, a purple, white, and aj
blotched blue variety.

Pans of Violas form a ring round two groups of J
plants shown by Messrs. R, H, Bath, Limited,!
Wisbech, In this way the plants are effectively]
shown, the public by these means obtaining a good I
idea of the habit of the respective varieties. Among!
other good things are True Blue, Seagull, Molly I
Pope, Primrose Dame, Councillor Waters, Ethel j
Baxter, Royal Blue and Amy Barr. There are|
also several pans of fancy Pansies.

May 24, 1913.]

THE GAllDEN.

263

CARNATIONS AND PINKS.

Truly magnificent aptly describes the wonderful
exhibit of Carnations set up by Mr. C. Engelmann,
Saffron Walde.i, Essex. Tall pillars, artistically
arranged with blooms of Lady Northcliffe, Rosa,
Sunstar, White Enchantress and Elektra occupy
the centre of the group, and out of the ground-
work of smaller vases there rise stately vases of
such sorts as the rich crimson Carola, White Mrs.
Lawson, Beacon, Triumph, Benora, White Wonder,
My Rose and Pioneer, among others. Edged with
well-grown Ferns the effect is distinctly beautiful,
and does this exhibitor great credit.

A circular group on a raised platform is occupied
with a dainty group of Carnations by Messrs.
Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Middlesex.
Malmaison, Mrs. C. F. Raphael, Princess of Wales,
Princess Juliana, Churchwarden, Marmion, Duchess
of Westminster and Gemma were all good. Among
the Perpetual-flowering varieties that are note-
worthy are British Triumph, Baroness de Brienen,
Empire Day, Scarlet Glow, Fairmount, Cinnabar
and White Wonder. Surmounted with Palms and
edged with Ferns and moss the effect is pretty.

Near to the Embankment entrance is a triangular
table group of Carnations, set up in quaint and
artistic vases and charming baskets by Mr. A. F.
Dutton, Iver, Bucks. The blooms in this group
are remarkable for their clear, bright and striking
colours ; in fact,' there is nothing like it in the
exhibition. Britannia, Scarlet Glow, Triumph and
Harlowarden are blooms of wonderful colours.
Beautiful, too, are the pink tones of colour as re-
presented by May Day, Mrs. A. F. Dutton, Rose
Pink Enchantress, Enchantress, Winsor and others.
Niagara and White Enchantress are superb white
kinds. Mention should also be made of Mikado,
the deep mauve of a unique tone of colour.

Perpetual-flowering Pinks are well shown by
Mr. C. H. Herbert, Acocks Green, Birmingham,
and are very welcome at this early period. Progress,
Sunset, Delicata, Cottage Maid and Echpse (a new
salmon pink coloured sort, of a size equal to a
Malmaison Carnation) are a pretty feature of this
great show. Edged with Ferns and other foliage
plants, this made a charming group.

A few tall vases of Carnations comprise part of
the group set up by Mr. S. Mortimer, Rowledge,
Famham, Surrey, embracing several of the popular
sorts that now find favour, including Victory,
Triumph and Alma Ward.

Mr. Charles Blick, The Warren Nurseries, Hayes,
Kent, so long associated with the late Mr. Martin
Smith as his gardener, exhibits a very pretty little
group of well-grown Carnations. Beacon (glorious).
Enchantress, Salome, Empire Day, Scarlet Glow,
Cecilia, R. F. Felton, White Wonder, Mikado,
Winsor, Lady Alington, Scarlet Beauty, Mrs. C.
Ward and King George are all well done.

.An interesting collection of Carnations calls for
note as shown by Mr. J. D. Webster, Chichester.
Some of the blooms are remarkably handsome, such
as Cecilia, Lady Coventry, H. J. Jones, Triumph,
R. F. Felton, Lady Meyer, Rose Pink Enchantress,
Carola and others.

Another beautiful representation of Carnations is
that seen in the group set up by Messrs. Young
and Co., Hatherley, Cheltenham. The roses, both
large and small, are charmingly disposed on a
groundwork of moss and foliage plants, and the
effect is distinct and very pleasing. In the centre
is a high stand of Cecilia, and four others, equi-
distant, of Duchess of Devonshire, Hon. Lady
Neeld (two) and White Enchantress. Other small
vases worthy of note are Edith Waters, Regina,

Britannia, Mrs. Raphael, Winsor; Mikado and
Scarlet Glow.

Associated with Azaleas, Mr. Charles Turner,
Slough, has a number of Carnations in pots, such
as Nautilus, Nell Gwynne, Lady Middleton, Princess
of Wales and Thora.

A large circular group is set up by Messrs. William
Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, N., and Bamet,
Herts. This is another of the splendid efforts
at this show, and the effect is truly artistic. Sur-
moimted by a Palm in the centre of the group are
Carnations, arranged in a receptacle high up above
a mound of Lady Coventry in the pink of condition ;
well-elevated stands of Mrs. Lucy Mackinnon,
Marmion, R. F. Felton, Mrs. C. F. Raphael, White
Wonder and others ; and in a charmingly undulat-
ing groundwork of Ferns and numerous other
Carnations a handsome group is brought into effect.

A group of an undulating character embracing
Statice and Malmaison Carnations, set up by Mr.
Leopold de Rothschild, Gunnersbury, W. (gardener,
Mr. J. Hudson), is a fine effort. The Carnations
are of the Malmaison type, and the plants are well
grown and the flowers all that could be desired.
FVincess of Wales and Blush Malmaison ere the two

TREES AND SHRUBS.

Hardy Azaleas as shown by Messrs. R. and G-
Cuthbert, Southgate, N., are always a great feature
at the spring show of this society, and the display
made by this firm this year is no exception to
this excellent rule. Two really magnificent groups
aptly describes this display of free-flowering plants.
The coloiurs are gorgeous, and the quality of the
flowers all that could be desired. Mollis, Leon
Vignes, J. C. Van Thol, Consul Ceresole, J. C.
Van Thol Imperial, Chevalier de Reali and Baron
Eeimund de Rothschild are all noteworthy. Varie-
ties of mollis X sinensis worthy of special mention
are T. J. Seidel, Nicholas Beets, Ellen Cuthbert,
Aureus and Clara Butt. Varieties of rustica
fl.-pl. that call for notice are Corneille, Phoebe,
II Tasso and Aida. Edged with Ferns, the
irregular grouping of the hardy Azaleas makes
this exhibit a great feature of the show.

Mr. Charles Turner, Slough, groups plants and
cut sprays of Lilacs in charming variety. Some ot
the plants need a little more time before they can
be regarded as in proper condition. Volcan, Dr.
Lindley, Charles X., Marie Legraye, Mme. F.
Morel and Negro are good single-flowered sorts.

A CORNER OF MESSRS. SUTTON AND SONS EXHIBIT, WHICH WAS COMPOSED
ENTIRELY OF PLANTS RAISED FROM SEEDS.

varieties exhibited. Rarely are these two Carna-
tions so well shown, and there is little doubt they
will be noted by many who desire to excel in the
cultivation of this type of the flower.

.\n attractive exhibit of Carnations is that
pleasingly ehsposed by Mr. Bertie E. Bell, Cashel
Nursery, Guernsey. Unique stands, stately vases
and long glasses are artistically arranged with most
of the leading varieties in fresh and clean con-
dition. Among others to be seen in this table
group are Winsor, Enchantress, Coronation, May
Day, Mikado, Scarlet Glow. Judith, White
Enchantress, Mrs. C. W. Ward and Marmion.

A pretty table group of Carnations is set up by
Mr. H. Burnett, Guernsey. The flowers in this
collection are very bright and of good quality
throughout. Marmion, Mrs. C. F. Raphael, R. F.
Felton, Carola, Benora, Beacon, White Wonder,
Calypso, Mikado, Scarlet Glow and Mrs. Tatton
are a few of the good things to be seen in this
attractive group.

Doubles are represented by .Arthiu- W. Paul, Mark
Micheli, Mme. Casimir - Perier, President Carnot,
Mme. Lemoine, Belle de Nancy and others.

Japanese pigmy trees are well shown by Messrs.
Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, London, W.C.
Seldom have these quaint and curious examples-
of dwarf trees of ancient origin been represented
in better condition, and their staging in a square
group so that each individual specimen can be seen
is a great advantage.

Messrs. W. Cutbush and Son, Highgate and
Bamet, staged a miscellaneous group of flowering
plants and other subjects. Rhododendron Pink
Pearl, hardy Azaleas, Marguerite Pink Perfection,
Hydrangea Mariesii, H. Monneur Ghys and
Araucaria Silver Star are among the interesting
things in this group.

Lilacs are shown by Messrs. W. and J. Brown,
Stamford, near to the Embankment entrance,
.^though the plants are not large, there is a beautiful
variety of both double and single kinds. Good

264

THE GAKDEN.

[May 24, 1913.

double sorts are Mme. Lcmoine Creanon, J. Guillot,
Alphonse Lavallee and Leon Simon. Singles are
interesting, such as Marie Legraye, Souvenir de
Louis Spathe, Geant des Batailles and Mme.
Francisque Morel.

New Chinese trees and shrubs are exhibited by
Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea,
and are a constant source of attraction to many.
Some of the more interesting plants are Coton-
easter Harroviana, Pyrus Folgneri, Stranv,-E6ia
undulata, Stuartia monogyna, Viburnum rhytido-
phyllum, Vitis arraata, Viburnum^ Henryii, V.
Davidii and Cotoneaster rugosa. Altogether a
most interesting collection.

From Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited,
there is also a beautiful group of miscellaneous
flowering trees and shrubs. Rhododendrons, Wis-
tarias, Loniceras, hardy Azaleas, Clematises,
Philadelphuses, Hydrangeas, Cytisuses and R jsa
Hugonis are all very charming. Rho-
dodendrons Mirabile, White Pearl, Pink
Pearl and other varieties, together with
the above-mentioned subjects, form a
mass of flowers that is the centre of
attraction to many.

Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfield,
Middlesex, have a mixed group of
hardy and tender plants, in which
Hydrangea The Bottle Brush Tree
(Metrosideros floribimda), Leptosper-
mum bullatum and .Acacia pulchella
are conspicuous.

Hardy Rhododendrons as exhibited
by Messrs. John Waterer and Sons,
Limited, Bagshot, Surrey, are a very
fine feature indeed. The plants are in
pots and are well grouped, and the
flowers are superb. Some of the better
varieties are Alice, Mrs. Fritton, Comer
Waterer, Pink Pearl, Prometheus,
Brilliant, Martin Hope Sutton, Mar-
chioness of Lansdowne and Strategist.
A few Acers dotted about here and
there enhance the beauty of the
display.

Wistarias in variety, growing in
quaint and curious receptacles, are
exhibited in interesting fashion by
Messrs. Pipers, Bayswater, London, W.
Rarely does the British public have an
opportmiity of seeing 1 anything so
novel, and some of the plants are
flowering most profusely.

Mr. R. C. Notcutt, Woodbridge, has
an interesting assortment of flowering
and other shrubs, all combining to
make a pretty exhibit. Cytisus an-
dreanus, C. albus, C. Daisy Hill,
C. andreanus prostratus, Kalmia latifoUa, Lilacs,
Fabiana imbricata, Acers and a host of pretty
things are noteworthy.

Messrs. William Paul and Son, Waltham Cross,
Herts, have a square, compact group at the side
of the big tent embracing flowering trees and shrubs
in variety. Rhododendron Pink Pearl, R. Lord
Palmerston, hardy Azaleas, Genista hispanica,
Cytisus albus, Honeysuckles, Clematises and
numerous other subjects made a useful and
interesting exhibit.

Rhododendrons in small baskets ore represented
in great variety in a group set up by Messrs.
Fletcher Brothers, Chertsey, Siurey. William
Austin, Helen Shifiner, Limbatum and Profusion
stand out from the rest.

Clematises from Messrs, George Jackman and Son,
Woking, Surrey, are always eagerly sought after,

and a charming group will reward the seeker at
this show. Quality of bloom is very nociceable,
and many of the plants will be better a week later.
The group, however, left nothing to be desired ;
interspersed with Palms and silver Acers the effect
was distinctly pretty. A few good sorts are Lady
Caroline Nevill, Jackmanni rubrum, Fairy Queen,
Imperatrice Eugenie, Nellie Moser, Ville de Lyon
and Mrs. George Jackman. This group is edged
with Maidenhair Fern, and is a welcome relief to
the gorgeous colouring elsewhere. Miscellaneous
flowering shrubs and other plants are also well
shown in another group by Messrs. George Jackman
and Son. This is a very bright and attractive
lot of plants, and all are well grown and freely
flowered. Superb is Kalmia latifolia, and other
good things are : Escallonia langleyensis, Cyasus
scop.iriiis andieana. Andromeda speciosus, Ledum
latili'lnun and L ilar Mmt-. K. Morel.

HYDRANGEA SARGENTl], A NEW SPECIES FROM NORTHERN
CHINA, ^HOWN BY MESSRS. I. VEITCH AND SONS.

H-ardv ornamental shriins in the form of an out-
door group ot a most varied collection of Acers was
a praiseworthy effort on the part of Messrs. John
Waterer and Sons, Limited, Bagshot, Surrey.
Half-a-dozen of the best sorts are Acer p-ilmatum
var. laciniatum atropurpureum, A. p. var. dissectum
palma:ifidum, A. p. var. corallinura (very fine),
A. p. var. dissectum florescens, A. japonicum var.
aureum and A. p. var. sanguineum.

Clipped Box trees are extensively shown by
Messrs. Carlton-White, 53, New Bond Street, W.
In this group there are represented such subjects
as Teddy Bears, dogs, peacocks, ducks, spirals,
vases and a host of other designs too numerous
to mention. This is a very large group.

Mr. L. R. Russell stages a most attractive group
of Tree Ivies in beautiful variety, and most of them
in splendid growth and good condition. A few

kinds worthy of special notice are Sheen Silver
(used as a fronting to the group). Gold Cloud,
flavescens, amurensis, fructo-lutea, palmata aurea
and margmata alba. There are some handsome
specimens of dentata variegata.

A very large and representative greup of clipped
Box and Yew is set up by Messrs. William Cutbush
and Sons, Highgate and Barnet. This firm is
famous for its topiary work, and the present
collection well merits a visit. Here are to be seen,
in good form and condition, representations of
ships, baskets, vases, anchors, tables, birds of
every description, dogs and spirals. It is pleasant
to view this outdoor group after the plethora of
flowers indoors. ^

Comprehensive aptly describes the large outdoor
^roup of Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, Surrey.
In this charming group are to be seen hardy Azaleas
in varietv, Ce.inothus veitchianus, Olearia Gunni,
Cyusus in variety and a pleasing
assortment of Vines. Vitis
henryana is in very handsome form
just now. Aucubas, Hypericum
moserianum tricolor, Cupressus erecta
aurea and a number of very in-
teresting plants are admired by the
many visitors.

A series of outdoor groups of trees
and shrubs, arranged in the form of
beds, is a useful and practical way of
showmg the value of the subjects planted
therein. Hardy Azaleas are planted
aloiKi in one bed, Acers in another.
Rhododendrons, Lilies, Viburnums,
Weigilas, Cytisuses and many other
pretty subjects in another, all combined
to transform the grounds into a veritable
pleasure ground or garden. This is a
splendid conception of what visitors may
in the future hope to see at these shows,
and Messrs. Cheal are to be congratu-
lated on this fine effort.

Clipped trees, as shown by Messrs
John Piper and Sons, Bayswater, Lon-
don, W., made a fine display. In this
collection there are many very handsome
matured specimens, representing a host
of subjects. Peacocks, spirals, double
arrhcs, a man sitting on a garden seat
and several unique designs seemed to
app"al to many.

Bi'ds of hardy Azaleas and Rhodo-
dendrons and other hardy flowering
ihrubs are pleasingly set out with paved
walks between them, and garden seats
arranged in suitable positions. The
whole display is hedged in with closely-
planted Yews, and the conception of this
idea reflects much credit on Mr. R. C. Notcutt, Wood-
bridge, the ^exhibitor. The beds are raised very
considerably, heightening the effect bv these
means.

Messrs. James Carter and Co. also have a beautiful
outdoor garden, the beds of which are planted with
hardy Azaleas, Viburnums, Acers and coniferous
subjects, all combining, with the wall garden, to
make a really pretty scene.

Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt, stage a
number of novelties in hardy Azaleas, some of
which are remarkable for their novelty of colouring.
Edith J. Keysell, High Beech Orange, Glory of
Cheshunt, Moore and Milton are a few of the more
striking sorts.

A very large and comprehensive group of Acers
was exhibited by Messrs. W Fromow and Sons,
Chiswick, W. There seems to be an almost endJrss

May 24, 1913-]

THE GA.HDEN.

266

variety, and the arrangement of the plants and
their character prove at once their decorative
worth in the garden. Acer palmatum corallinum,
A. japonicum aureum and A. dissectum atropur-
pureum are conspicuously good.

Standard mop-headed Bays and a nice assorted
lot of those of pyramidal form are exhibited by
Messrs. John Piper and Sons, London and^Barnes,
Surrey.

Dwarf Japanese trees are shown by Messrs
Liberty and Co., London and Paris, together with
a number of accessories for a Japanese garden
A fine specimen of a dwarf tree, some two
hundred years old, occupies a prominent position
in this rollection.

TULIPS.

Tulips are magnificently shown this year. Con-
sidering the inclement season, it is wonderful
how such fresh flowers as are to be seen, say, in
Messrs. Sutton's group, have survived in the con-
dition in which they are presented at this show
The effect of the friendly covering of a grass shade
during the latter part of their growth does wonders
for Tulips, and there is no secret in the fact that
the glorious examples of Mrs. Famcombe Sanders,
Inglescombe Yellow, Mrs. Moon and Inglescombe
Pink on Messrs. Dobbie's stand owe everything to
this. It is unfortunate that for some reason or
another the firm has not entered their Tulip group
for award.

The large and varied group of Messrs. A.
Dickson and Sons of Belfast is a delightful bit of
arrangement, although the bottom row of vases
look as if they had been disturbed before the group-
ing was quite finished. They include a very varied
assortment of the different types and, together
with that of Messrs. Barr and Sons, it has pro-
bably more instructive interest than any other.

Messrs. R. H. Bath of Wisbech has a collection
arranged almost entirely on the ground and broken
with five pillars of Rambler Roses. It makes a
bright bit of colour, but somehow the grouping
looks a little too mixed up to be very striking,
and it does not do itself justice in consequence.
The few blooms of the famous Tulipe Noire sur-
rounded by the beautiful pale yellow Leghorn
Bonnet look well.

Mr. C. W. Needham has, what is very seldom
seen, a good selection of the strictly florist types,
such as Sir Joseph Paxton, Eos and Trip to Stock-
port. It is a thousand pities that the blooms are
not set out to more advantage, as the public is
so seldom treated to a display of these old-world
beauties.

The Tulip hill of Messrs. J. Jefieries and Son of
Cirencester is the most decided novelty in the
way of arrangement in the whole exhibition. It
has many things that could be said in its favour,
but space forbids us to say more. This firm has
immensely improved upon its show at the " Inter-
national " last year, and it it had only had larger
blooms, it would, we think, have qualified for a
higher award than that which it received. Bronze
■Queen (or Clio, to give it its old name) and the
never-to-be-surpassed gesneriana major were both
good. So, too, were the vases of the grand old
■double " Blue Flag." Messrs. James Veitch and
Messrs. Hogg and Robertson have two of the
Ibrightest displays of the day. In both cases the
blooms are large and clean. The large masses of
■one colour affected by the former do show a variety
ito great advantage and must inspire those hesitating

*bout a purchase more than, say, an isolated vase.
The latter firm stage more variety, and among
them are to be noted Plurot (pale pink), Erguste,
Hammer Hales and Rossetta (rose slightly edged
yellow).

Mr. C. Bourne has a small but well-grown and
well-staged collection. Solfatare, Scarlet Emperor
and Zulu were much above the usual average.

Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin and the War-
grave Plant Farm both have small and interesting
exhibits, and both have flowers in fresh condition.
They will probably be finer on the last day, when
they have groivn, than on the first.

Dealing with the general arrangements of the
show, we would like to be able to see the different
groups in a little more comfortable manner when
the general public come in. The gangways are
much too narrow. Tulips do want to be seen at a
little distance.

FRU IT.

It is clear that the exhibits in the fruit section have
been prejudiced by the weather ; not that those at
Chelsea are inferior, except perhaps in colour, but

the beautiful collection of Strawberries. The
fruits are large, firm and the colour in most
instances nothing short of wonderful. The varieties
include King George, The Queen, The Earl, Inter-
national and Maincrop. This firm also shows
Loganberries, Laxtonberries, standard Goose-
berries and Currants, as well as Peaches and
Nectarines. Out of doors Messrs. Laxton have a
very fim exhibit of trees trained in various
forms.

Apples of the summer, autumn, vrinter and spring
are equally represented in the collection shown by
Messrs. G. Bunyard and Co., Limited, Royal
Nurseries, Maidstone. They are a splendid object-
lesson of the manner in which Apples may be kept
when the conditions and circumstances are favour-
able. The varieties include King of Tompkins'
County, Calvaie Malingre, Belle de Pontoise,
Sturmer Pippin, King of Pippins, Cox's Orange
Pippin, Alfriston, Hormead's Pearmain, Bramley's
Seedling, Belle de Boskoop, Newton Wonder,
Diamond JubUee, Claygate Pearmain, Lord Derby,
Ribston Pippin, Hambling's Winter Queening and
Gasco>Tie's Scarlet Seedling. There are also some
fine fruits of Uvedale's St. Germain Pear.

PART OF THE COLLECTION OF MAY-FLOWERING TULIPS SHOWN BY
MESSRS. A. DICKSON AND SONS OF NEWTOWNARDS.

they are not as numerous as might be expected
and desired at a gathering so representative of
British horticulture. With one exception the
displays were of trees in pots or of trained specimens
lifted from the open ground.

The King's Acre Nurseries, Limited, Hereford,
have a varied group of plants fruiting in pots.
Among the notable features are James Grieve,
Lady Sudeley, Red Astrachan and Irish Peach
Apples ; Souvenir du Congrte, Marguerite Marillat
and Conference Pears ; British Oak, Progress, Lady
Leicester, May Duke, Whinham's Industry, White
Eagle, Dr. Wooley and Clayton Gooseberries ;
Cardinal and Early Rivers' Nectarines ; Duke of
York Peach ; Negro Largo, White Ischia, Golden,
Brimswick, Pingo de Mel and Black Bourjasotte
Figs ; and Early Prolific, July Green Gage and
Blue Rock Plums.

It is surely superfluous to say that the outstand-
ing feature of Messrs. Laxton Brothers' groups is

Oranges, Lemons and Citrons from Messrs. T.
Rivers and Sons, Sawbridgeworth, are interesting
examples of excellent culture, and suggest that
these valuable fruits might well be far more exten-
sively grown in our gardens. The same firm has
also a separate group of Peaches Peregrine and
Kestrel ; Plums Stint, Early Prolific, Early Rivers
and Blue Rock ; Cherries May Duke, Elton,
Frogmore Bigarreau and Knigkt's Early Black ;
and Nectarines Early Rivers and Cardinal. Needless
to say the plants were clean and splendidly
fruited.

In the grounds, surrounded by gorgeous flowers
and charming rock gardens, Messrs. James Veitch
and Sons, Limited, Royal Exotic Nursery, Chelsea,
have a group of fruit trees trained in many forms,
and they gain interest from their neighbours. The
trees are perfect examples of how training should
be done, and they illustrate how fine crops can be
produced on a very small space.

266

THE GAiiDEN.

[May 24, 1913.

VEGETABLES.

A collection of vegetables of superb quality comes
from the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, Aldenham House,
Aldenham, Herts (gardener, Mr. E. Beckett). The
collection, which is staged in a masterly way, con-
tains Peas Early Giant, Quite Content and Selected
Duke of Albany (all with well-filled pods and in
perfect condition). Climbing French Bean Princess
of Wales, Dwarf Bean Canadian Wonder and Broad
Bean Mammoth Longpod. Of the Cucumbers
staged, Sutton's Matchless is doubtless the best,
and other vegetables include Turnips White Gem
and Early White Milan, Tomatoes Peachblow and
Sutton's Ai, Kohl Rabi, Vegetable Marrows, Cauli-
flower Magnum Bonum, Beetroot Sutton's Globe,
Mushrooms, Potato King Edward VH. and Duke
of York, Globe Artichokes, Egg Plants (purple and
white) and Radishes. It is an admirable collection,
worthy of the highest praise.

From the Thatcham Fruit and Flower Farm,
Newbury, comes a creditable collection of vege-
tables, including Cauliflowers First Crop and
Snowball, Tomatoes Early Market and Holmes'
Supreme, Potatoes Duke of York and May Queen,
Cucumber Covent Garden Favourite, Pea Gradus,
Radishes, Lettuces, Beans, Carrots, Spinach and
Vegetable Marrows. This exhibit was arranged
by the ladies from the Horticultural Training
School at the Thatcham Fruit and Flower Farm.

Two new Cucumbers are being shown by Mr.
S. Mortimer, Rowledge, Farnham, Surrey. The
varieties are Continuity and May Queen. Both
varieties were shown in perfect condition and
uniform in size.

Entering the main entrance from the Embank-
ment, one of the first exhibits to be observed is
that of Messrs. James Carter and Co., in the form
of a choice collection of vegetables arranged on a
neat and effective white stand. The vegetables,
all of which are grown from Carter's Tested Seeds,
include Cauliflowers Forerunner and Defiance
Forcing, Broccoli Spring White, Peas Early Mom
and Early Duke, Dwarf Bean Improved Longsword.
Broad Bean Seville Giant Longpod, Cucumbers
Carter's Ideal and Frame, Seakale, Beet, Tomatoes,
early Carrots, Lettuce, Kohl Rabi, Radishes,
Potatoes and Marrows. This exhibit is of very
high quality.

Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, have arrjmged
an exhibit of tempting early vegetables and delicate
salading. The produce of the firm's well-known
varieties include Dwarf French Bean Superlative ;
Peas Duke of Albany, Green Gem and Early Giant ;
Cucumber Telegraph, Tomatoes Early Market,
Winter Beauty, Eclipse and Princess of Wales ;
Asparagus Reading Giant and Perfection, Potatoes,
Turnips and Carrots. This is a first-rate
collection.

Mr. Theo E. Dawes, Syderstone Nurseries,
Norfolk, is showing a fine collection of Rhubarb,
with sticks of Dawes' Challenge well over three feet
in length.

AWARDS.

FLORAL CXJMMITTEE'S AWARDS.

First-class CerHficates. — Nephrolepis exaltata
WillmottsB, from Messrs. May : Cupressus law-
soniana Fletcheri, from Mr. Fletcher ; and
Meconopsis Delavayi, from the Edinburgh
Botanic Gardens.

Botanical CertiftcaU. — Olearia Chathamica, from
the Rev. A. T. Boscawen.

Awards of Merit. — Campanula Stevensii nana,
from Mr. R. Prichard ; Pentstemon Davidsonii,

from Mr. Elliott ; Auricula William Smith, from
Mr. Douglas ; Calceolaria Clarefield Gem, from
Mrs. Litkie ; Rose Nancy Perkins, from Messrs.
Perkins ; Rose Irish Fireflame and Rose Mrs.
Campbell Hall, from Messrs. Alex. Dickson ;
Saxifraga Grandfieldi, from Sir Everard Hambro ;
Begonia Lena, from Messrs. Blackmore and
Langdon ; Roscoea cautUoides, from Bees,
Limited ; Rose White Tausendschon, from Mr.
W. Paul ; Sarracenia Brucii, from Mr. A. J. A.
Bruce ; Aster Falconerii, from Messrs. Barr and
Sons ; Cytisus andreana prostrata, from Mr. L. R.
Russell ; Styrax Wilsoni, from Miss Willmott,
V.M.H. ; and Lonicera tragophylla, from Messrs.
J. Veitch and Sons.

ORQHID GO.VIVIITTEa'S AWARDS.

Ftrsl-class Certificates. — Cattleya Empress
Frederick alba, from Messrs. Marshall and
Hatcher, Rawdon, Leeds ; Odontioda Chanticleer
Orchidhurst variety, from Messrs. Armstrong and
Brown, Tunbridge Wells ; Laslio-Cattleya Britannia
Westonbirt var., from. Lieutenant-Colonel Sir George

Cultural Commendations. — Sobralia macrautha
alba, from J. Gurney Fowler, Esq., South Wood-
ford ; Miltonia vexillaria virginale, Miitonia vexil-
laria Snowflake and Cattleya Mossiae Mahomet,
from Lieutenant-Colonel Sir G. Holford, Tetbury.
Gloucestershire.

The Farrer Cup for the best six new or rare
dwarf rock plants was awarded to Messrs. Bees,
Liverpool, and the Davidson Cup for the best
Cattleya, not a hybrid, to Messrs. Charlesworth,
Hayward's Heath, for Cattleya percivahana Mary
Regina.

The other cups and medals awarded were not
known at the time of going to press.

SUNDRIES.

Outside.
A specially interesting exhibit of boilers is being
shovm by Messrs. C. P. Kinnell and Co., Limited.,
65, Southwark Street, E.C., including models of
the Anglian independent sectional of new and
improved form. The Rochford and Bisson

AN EFFECTIVE GROUP OF TULIPS ARRANGED BY MESSRS. R.

THE FLOOR.

H. BATH, LIMITED, ON

Holford, Tetbury, Gloucestershire ; Lalio-Cattleya
Sylvia, Princess Victoria Louise and Miltonia Charles-
worthia, from Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hay-
ward's Heath ; Laelio-Cattleya Frederick Boyle
Gatton variety and Odontoglossum Queen of
Gatton, from Sir Jeremiah Colman, Reigate ;
and Odontoglossum Othmarschem, from Baron
Bruno Schroder, Englefield Green,

Awards of Merit. — Odontoglossum eximium
Armstrongse, Brasso-Cattleya Excelsior and Laelio-
Cattleya Aphrodite splendens, from Messrs. Arm-
strong and Brown, Tunbridge Wells ; Oncidium
McBeanianum, Cattleya Mendelii May Queen,
Odontioda Charlesworthii Perfection, and Cymbi-
dium gottianum superbum, from Messrs. J. and
A. A. McBean, Cooksbridge ; L«Iio-Cattleya
Ganymede Holford variety and Odontoglossum
lUustrissimum Westonbirt variety, from Lieutenant-
Colonel Sir G. Holford, Tetbury, Gloucestershire ;
Odontioda chelseaensis variety St. Fuscien, from
M. Graire, Amiens, France ; Odontoglossum
Georgius Rex, from Messrs. Charlesworth, Hay-
ward's Heath ; Brasso - Cattleya vilmoriniana
var. Etna. Odontoma Laelia Sander and Onci-
dioda Cooksoniae var. illustris, from Messrs.
Sander and Sons, St. Albans.

are also suitable types for large growers, and
amateurs' needs are catered for with the Horse-
shoe and Charm patterns.

Messrs. Skinner, Board and Co., Exmoor Street,
Bristol, have specimens of their noted wire tension
span-roofed glass-houses on view, also heating
apparatus.

Syringes and spraying apparatus are shown by
Messrs. Benton and Stone, Birmingham, including
pumps in various forms, one of the knapsack
pneumatics having a mechanical agitator, which is
a great advantage.

Messrs. D. Roberts and Son, Tottenham, show
plant tubs of excellent design and finish, garden
seats and furniture.

Boilers of sectional form, exhibited by Messrs.
Hontsch and Co., Guildford, are also on view.

A useful and varied selection of well-made garden
tools is staged by the Hardy Patent Pick Company,
Keeley, Sheffield, which should prove of interest
to all gardeners, whether professional or amateur.

Vermorel spraying machines of varied sizes and
types are on view and displayed in tasteful form
by Messrs. Cooper, Pegler and Co., 24, Christopher
Street, E.C.

{Contifiued on page xx.)

May 24, 1913]

THE GARDEN.

267

THE ROSE GARDEN.

1 <j

A'

TOP-DRESSING ROSE-BEDS.

TOP-DRESSING is beneficial in all
seasons, but it will be doubly help-
ful this year, considering the showery
weather we are having. Of course,
much depends upon what we have
already given our Roses in the shape

of fertilisers as to the material advisable now.

One must be careful at all times not to apply

a top-dressing, or mulch as it is sometimes termed.

that is going to close, as it were

the pores of the soil.

We all doubtless know how

essential air and warmth are to

the soil, during the growing

season espec'ially. hence our main

object in hoeing the surface ;

but it is quite possible to apply

such a top-dressing as will admit

the essential air, and at the same

lime afford nourishment to the

inimbers of roots that abound

upon liealthy plants. If one has

a number of weakly plants, it

would be utter folly to top-dress

such plants with a powerful fer-
tiliser; but to the strong, well-
established specimens a top-
dressing of such a composition

as Wakeley's Hop Manure would

be highly valuable. I have a

high opinion of this compound,

because I have proved its value ;

hut I may here say that in

spent Hops alone we have also

a valuable ingredient, which, if

lightly sprinkled with sulphate of

ammonia, say, at the rate of half

an ounce per square yard, will

be very beneficial. The spent

Hops may be applied, say, about

an inch in depth, and then let

the material be hoed or very

lightly forked into the soil.

It must be remembered that

Roses send out a lot of small

feeders, which come very near

the surface ; hence the need for

caution in forking up. To obtain

the full benefit of sulphate of

ammonia, the soil must contain

lime in *a good proportion,

and the best time to apply

this would be in the autumn.

However, there are few soils

that are really deficient of this

article, so that one may safely apply the above

now.

Another excellent top-dressing is compounded

as follows : One hvmdredweight each of kainit,

bone-meal and dried blood, mixed with about six

bushels of rather dry soil, the whole well mixed

together and placed in an airy, rainproof shed,

and after two days apply a liberal chressing all over

the beds, repeating this again in a month.

Some of the preparations sold by reliable firms

are excellent for top-dressing, but the amateur is

apt to be too liberal in their use. If applied well

beneath the prescribed quantity and mixed with

soil and well hoed in, they are of much fertilising

value. Rape-meal is a splendid substitute for

farmyard manure, and makes a capital top-dressing.

.\pply at the rate of about foiu" oimces to a square
yard and fork it into the siurface soil. As I said at
the commencement, if the Roses were heavily
manured in autumn or early spring, it may be they
will not require a top-dressing, but instead give
them some good liquid manure as soon as the buds
are about the size of Peas, and continue tfiis twice
a week until the buds show colour. To Roses that
appear somewhat weakly, a handful of nice compost,
consisting of equal parts of fine soil and bone-
flom-, spread around them will be helpful, and they
may have in addition a very weak solution of
liquid cow-manure once a week. If any diflficulty

TREES

STRONG

AND SHRUBS.

c

ROSE MME. EDOUARD HERRIOT, A BEAUTIFUL NEW VARIETY SHOWN
BY MESSRS. G. BECKWITH AND SON AT THE CHELSEA SHOW.

is foimd in obtaining spent Hops, old hot-bed
manure, well broken up, can be utilised ; in fact,
if this is available, then the Hops will not be
needed.

Peat-moss litter I do not care much about, as
it settles do%vn too closely. If dug imder, there
is less danger on this head, but I would avoid it
if possible. In such a dripping season as it is
there is little need for the ordinary mulch, save
upon very shallow, gravelly soils. In their case it
cannot but be useful, and it is surprising in what
a shallow soil Roses will thrive if they are well
fed by top-dressings followed with good and
frequent stirring of the surface and applications

GROWING CUMBERS FOR
PERGOLAS.

LI.MBING Roses are so popular for
planting on pergolas that many rely
upon them entirely and take little
account of the many climbing plants
of other kinds which are suitable
for the purpose, notwithstanding the
fact that they have much to commend them
either by reason of ornamental foliage or showy
flowers. All climbers are not, how-
ever, suitable for pergolas, those of
weak growth perhaps least so.
Plants of weakly growth fail to
attain the luxuriance of their
stronger companions ; therefore
wheal planted together the effect is
gappy, a condition fatal to the
generally - accepted idea of the
appearance which a pergola should
present. In the following notes
attention is directed to various
strong-growing climbers which may
be used for the purpose.

The Wistarias are perhaps the
most beautiful of all flowering
climbers for planting against per-
golas, and at no time are they seen
so effectively as when grown in such
a manner. The pendulous racemes
of flowers hang gracefully from both
pillars and cross-bars, their delicate
colouring and perfume being highly
appreciated by all. Although the
common W. chinensis is very beau-
tiful, it is doubtful whether it is so
generally useful for the purpose as
W. multijuga ; but the latter plant
must only be planted against per-
golas of considerable height, for
the pendulous racemes are often
2j feet to 3i feet in length. The
colour is mauve, but there is a
variety, alba, with white flowers
and rather shorter racemes.

The new Actinidia chinensis is
another decorative climber. Its
assets are the bright brownish hairs
which cover the young bark, large,
heart-shaped leaves, and the yellow
flowers, which are about one and
a-half inches in diameter. In China
it is considered useful on account of
its edible fruit. Celastrus articu-
latus, a near relative of the common
Spindle Tree, is less frequently seen
than its decorative qualities warrant. Forming long,
strong branches, it may be expected to cover the
highest support in a comparatively short space of
time. Its fruits are its chief attraction, for when
ripe they are highly coloured, the outer part being
yellow and the covering of the seeds orange scarlet.
As the fruits ripen, the outer covering bursts,
disclosing the brighter seeds within. In this con-
dition they remain from September to Christmas.
The flowers are inconspicuous. Akebia quinata
and A. lobata are a couple of strong-growing
climbers which belong to the Berberis family.
In the former case the five-parted leaves, and in
the latter case the three-lobed leaves, are decidedly

of weak liquid manure whenever the plants show ornamental, while the purple flowers appear in
signs of exhaustion, Panecroft. 1 profusion in spring.

268

THE GARDEN.

[May 24, 191 3.

Jasminum nudiflorum is well known as a winter-
flowering climber, covering walls and trellises ;
but it is equally desirable for a pergola. The
fact must always be remembered, however, that it
must not be pruned at any other season than late
winter or very early spring, otherwise the flowering
wood will be cut away. The summer-flowering
Jasminum officinale is also an admirable climbmg
shrub, for it grows well and its fragrant, white
flowers always find admirers. There are several
Honeysuckles which are worth attention. The
common wild Lonicera Periclymenum and its
various forms are among the best, while the Chinese
and Japanese L. japonica is both free-growing and
free-flowering. The varieties chinensis, flexuosa
and halliana are equally worthy.

Where the garden varieties of Clematis can be
depended upon, they make admirable subjects ;
but, unfortunately, there are many gardens where
they behave in an unsatisfactory manner ; there-
fore in those gardens it is advisable to rely upon
species and botanical varieties. Clematis Flam-
mula makes a most effective object in August
when covered with its small, white, sweet-scented
blossoms, while its variety rubro-marginata is
also attractive. Earlier in the year. May and early
June, C. montana may be expected to produce
a wealth of bloom, the flowers being white ; while

rounded leaves are dainty and attractive, while
it bears bunches of black berries. Periploca
graeca is another cUmber which is not often met
with. It grows vigorously and bears purple
flowers in summer.

Several of the new kinds of Chinese Rubus are
well worth planting against pergolas, particularly
R. bambusarum and R. flagelliformis.

Numerous species of Vines may be obtained
which have highly ornamental foliage ; in fact, a
pergola of considerable length might be made
very interesting with Vines alone. Among others,
Vitis Labrusca, V. henryana, V. Thunbergii. V.
Coignetia?, V. armata, V. Leeoides, V. megalophylla
and V. Thomsonii are specially noteworthy. V.
megalophylla is a particularly ornamental kind,
for its much-divided leaves are frequently upwards
of ij feet across. V. Leeoides is also remarkable
for its pinnate leaves.

In the South and West of England a very pretty
white-flowered climber is often seen covering walls
and fences. That is Solanum jasminoides. It is
equally suitable for pergola planting, but may only
be grown in the warmer parts of the country.
The Trumpet Flowers, Tecoma radicans and T.
grandiflora, grow quite well in many gardens,
but must only be planted in sunny positions, else
they will tail to perfect their flowers.

A SPRAY OF THE ROSE ACACIA,

ROBINIA HISPIDA MACROPHYLLA.
THAT FLOWERS IN JUNE.

THIS IS A BEAUTIFUL SHRUB

when in flower, the numerously-divided leaves
render the trees ornamental at other seasons,
while in winter there is much to admire in the
picturesque trunks of old specimens of the False
Acacia (Robinia Pseudacacia).

Robinia hispida (the Rose Acacia) forms a
beautiful bush up to 6 feet or more in height,
with Fern-like foliage. The branches are clothed
with stiff, bristly hairs reddish brown in colour;
hence the name R. hispida. The rose-coloured
flowers are freely borne in pendent racemes.
The variety macrophylla, illustrated below,
is a far finer plant than the type, having much
larger leaves and flowers, while it lacks the bristly
hairs so notable in the common Rose Acacia.
The flowering season is June. A little attention
is necessary in pinching and pruning the bushes
in a small state, as, naturally, the habit is rather
straggling. R. hispida does not produce mature
seeds under cultivation, and even in a wild state
good seeds are rarely, if ever, found. Fortunately,
the bushes sucker freely, and propagation is also
possible by root-cuttings. Pieces of root as thick
as a pencil and 3 inches or 4 inches long will grow
if taken off in early spring and started in a propagat-
ing-frame. The variety macrophylla can be
grafted on the type or the False Acacia (R. Pseud-
acacia). The vear 1758 is given as the date of
introduction of the Rose Acacia from
the Southern United States.

R. neomexicana. — A native of
Arizona, Colorado and New Mexico,
this species was introduced as recently
as 1887 into British gardens. In a
wild state it is found as a small tree
20 feet to 25 feet in height. The
pinnate leaves are interspersed with
racemes of white flowers flushed or
tinted with rose.

R. Pseudacacia (the False Acacia
or common Locust) is the most
popular Robinia in parks and gardens.
It is quite at home in this country,
attaining a height of 50 feet to 70 feet
or more. Introduced from the Eastern
United States in 1640, plenty of old,
picturesque specimens exist in this
country. The timber is notable, being
very hard and durable. The elegant
Fern-like foliage is very attractive. In
Jime the trees produce quantities of
white flowers in racemes. The False
Acacia is useful as a street and town
tree, thriving quite well in the London
district, though in recent years it has
been superseded by the variety inermis.
Something like forty varieties or sports
from the type have been given distinc-
tive names. The most useful and dis-
tinct of them all are the varieties

a good companion plant may be obtained in the
variety rubens, which has red flowers. C. orien-
talis, with yellow flowers ; C. campaniflora, with
pale mauve flowers ; C. grata, with white, violet-
tinged blossoms ; and C. Durandii, a hybrid with
bluish flowers, are other desirable kinds,

Aristolochia Sipho, sometimes called the Dutch-
man's Pipe on account of its pecuharly shaped
flowers, is another useful pergola shrub, for, in
addition to its being of rampant growth, its large,
deep green leaves are decidedly ornamental.
Although rarely met with outside scientific estab-
lishments, the Moonseed (Menispermum canadense)
might well tie included as a pergola plant. Its

bella rosea, rose-coloured flowers ;

As a rule, these climbers are only seen at their \ bessoniana, a tree more formal in growth ; decais-
best when planted in really good soil ; hence the \ neana, a French variety with deep pink blossoms ;
necessity of making sure that the soil conditions are fastigiata, a tree very upright in growth, like the
right before planting, for no amount of top-dressing familiar Lombardy Poplar ; and inermis, a thom-
afterwards will make up for inferior soil about the less, small tree, a favourite for street planting,
roots. K. R. viscosa (the Clammy Locust) grows 30 feet

I to 40 feet high. In the Botanical Magazine,

ROBINIAS OR FALSE ACACIAS. , t. 560, it is figured under the name of R. gluti-
Among the large number of leguminous trees ' nosa, both names referring to the sticky glands
and shrubs cultivated outside in this country, I on the young twigs and leaf-stalks. The pale
the Robinias or False Acacias hold an important rose-coloured flowers are borne at the end of June,
position as ornamental subjects. There are five 1 thus being later than those of the common species,
species, all natives of North America, and a con- , It was introduced to Britain about 1797, and is m
siderable uuniber of varieties. Very attr£|ctivp native of the Southern United State'<,

Mav 24. tgts-]

THE GAKDEN.

269

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

A SIMPLE ARRANGEMENT OF SUMMER BEDS.

DIFFICULTY is sometimes experienced
^ by beginners in deciding how to
I plant their flower-beds in a way
" which would produce good effect
during the summer months and at
the same time be of simple design.
The beds illustrated on this page are very simple
in form, and are planted with effective subjects ;
imd although a block of beds is represented, this
need not prevent any form of beds which may be
dotted about the garden being planted with the
subjects recommended.

The centre bed is to be planted with that very
fine Pentstemon Southgate Gem in a carpet of
Viola White Swan. The Pentstemon should not
be planted too thickly. Give the plants plenty
of space, viz., 18 inches to 24 inches between the
plants, and fill in with the Violas. The plants
should have been rooted from cuttings inserted
last autumn. Placed in small pots in March last,
the Pentstemons should by this time be well
established and ready for planting in the beds.
The Violas, formerly rooted under hand-lights,
should also be ready for transferring to the beds
in which they are to flower well into the autumn
months. As a matter of fact, this bed would
continue to flower well into November unless very
sharp frost put an end to the flower-spikes of the
Pentstemons.

No. 2 beds will also prove effective and lasting.
Begonia Hilda is a very fine bedding plant. Each
plant should have ample room to develop, filling
the space between the plants with Alyssum
Little Dorrit, which can be raised from seed in
a very short time, and which will continue to
flower well into the autunm.

No. 3 are planted with White Intermediate
.\ntirrhinums, and, although not shown in the plan,
pale blue Violas may be planted with them. If,
however, this is done, the Antirrhinums must be
planted 18 inches apart, in order to give the Violas
room to develop. This I leave to the discretion
of the planter.

No. 4 are planted with yellow Begonias. Either
the single or double variety may be used. If it is
decided to use the double, see that the flower-stems
hold the flowers well up above the foliage, or choose
an erect-growing variety. Sedum glaucum is
used as a carpet plant. This Sedum has the merit
of keeping the soil cool and moist, a condition of
things very essential to the Begonia.

As above stated, it is not at all necessary' or
intended that the scheme of planting should be
confined to a formal set of beds. It is equally
suitable for any kind of bed, whether isolated or
one of any number. A. T.

HOW TO HARDEN BEDDING-OUT
PLANTS.

The time has come when hundreds of thousands
of bedding-out plants will be placed in the open
air to get inured to the outside temperature before
being planted in the flower-beds. It is necessary,
and wise, too, to see to this work very carefully.
With the exception of Calceolarias, Marguerites
and a few other kinds, which only need frost being
kept from them in winter-time, all should be
gradually exposed to the air. It is, however, a

fact that many inexperienced cultivators are too
rash in thus exposing their plants, and so cause them
to be checked and even much disfigured. A shel-
tered position must be selected, but not one unduly
overshadowed by tall trees or buildings. A bed
of ashes is a good base for the pots and boxes.
A few laths or Pea sticks supported by forked pegs
will bear up a thin covering material such as scrim,

from the ground to enable the workman to walk
round it freely. Then he must put in a lining
of very fresh moss, pressing it firmly to the sides
of the basket, and filling up with compost and plants
as the moss is placed in position ; then the roots
of the smaller plants which are grown through
the sides can be better arranged in the soil as the
work proceeds. It is very important that a good

.-^ 2.

SOME SIMPLE ARRANGEMENTS FOR SUMMER BEDS. THE SCHEMES ARE SUITABLE FOR
SEPARATE BEDS AS WELL AS A SET AS SHOWN

and this should be put on for a few days at first ;
then for a few days only while the sim shines.
Do not water the foliage while the sun is shining
on the plants ; then there will be no danger of
scalding the leaves. B.

HOW TO FILL FLOWER-BASKETS.

A BASKET in a window, porch, or several in a green-
house, neatly filled with flowering and foliage
plants, look very charming indeed. Beautifully-
furnished baskets may very often be seen, but
there are many also which are not an im-
provement to the appearance of the structure
in which they are placed. Plants grown in
pots are generally well prepared for estab-
lishment on stages and similar places, and so,
also, should plants grown in hanging baskets be
well prepared.

Failure is often cointed by inexperienced culti-
vators putting the plants in the basket and forth-
with suspending it in the bright simshine under
the glass. The best way is to fix the basket on a
wire or strong piece ot cord at a convenient height

rim of sound moss be built up at the top of the
basket, and also that sufficient space be left to
hold water. A mistake is very often made in both
respects.

The Compost should be a good one, and, generally,
it must contain some fibrous loam and well-rotted
manure. When the basket is filled, water carefully
and syringe the sides. Unsuitable plants are
sometimes used, and then disappointment is sure
to follow. Fuchsias or similar graceful plants
form good centre subjects. Ivy-leaved Pelar-
goniums are very effective indeed. The Zonal
Pelargoniums may be employed, also Coleuses
and Petunias. For shaded positions, Ferns in their
I>ots look well in the centre, with pendulous-growing
Fuchsias to depend from the sides of the basket.
Selaginellas, Panicum variegatum and Trades-
cantia zebrina form a lovely covering to the sides
of the basket. When the baskets are finished,
place them in a shaded part of the greenhouse
for ten days or a little while longer, keeping the
plants syringed or watered to establish them,
and then put the baskets in their summer
positions. Shamrock.

270

THE GARDEN.

[May 24, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Preparations for Beddlng-ont. — Now that early-
flowering bulbs are over, preparations may be made
for summer bedding. Several of the groundwork
plants may still be making a good show ; but as
our summer season is usually so short, no time
should be lost in getting the beds ready for plant-
ing, especially where there is a lot of them to do.

Removal and Care of Bulbs. — Hyacinths,
Tulips and Narcissi, after being lifted so early in
the season, are not to be relied upon to make a
good show in the beds another season, but by
careful lifting and laying in in light soil in a semi-
shady position, they should be quite good enough
for planting in borders or for naturalising in grass
next season, this latter applying more particularly
to the different varieties of Narcissi.

Arabis and Aubrietia should also be carefully
lifted, and, after being carefully cut over, planted
in a border to provide stock for next season, the
former to be propagated from cuttings and the
latter by division.

Polyanthuses also should be lifted, splitting
up the best varieties and planting in ntnrsery beds
where they can remain till the autumn. In each
instance it may be necessary to give the plants one
or two waterings to establish them, especially if
the weather is hot and dry.

The Rose Garden.

The Rose Maggot. — Though there are many
very efficacious insecticides on the market, I have
not found one that can be relied upon to kill these
grubs, and to rid the plants of this pest they must
be systematically looked over, kUling the insects
between the thumb and finger.

Aphis, too, makes its appearance very early,
and to keep the plants quite clean they require
spraying with an insecticide at least once every
week, a carefidly-prepared paraffin emulsion being
one of the most efiective remedies, and the Holder
Pneumatic Sprayer is perhaps the most economical
method of applying it.

Disbudding or thinning the shoots has to be
practised where really good blooms are required,
this being more necessary where a close system of
pruning is practised. All weak shoots should be
removed as soon as they attain an inch or 2 inches in
length, leaving the strongest and best-placed shoots
to bloom. This thinning applies equally as much
to standards as to dwarfs, though in the latter case
more shoots should be left so as to leave a good,
full and shapely head.

Plants Under Glass.

Fuchsias, Begonias and Gloxinias are all plants
that are benefited by a little shade, and the same
applies to Streptocarpi and Celosias. If roller blinds
are not fixed to the houses occupied by such sub-
jects, a little permanent shading should be put on,
starch and whiting carefully mixed and put on
thinly being sufficient to stop the full glare of the
Sim without impeding too much light, and this
wUl last the season through quite well and come
off easily when desired.

Chrysanthemums. — The most forward plants of
the large-flowering section will now be read}' for their
final potting, and the strongest growers shotild be
put in I i^inch pots. A moderately rich loam, with
the usual addition of short manure, leaf-soil,
cinder ashes, lime rubble, bone-meal and sand, is
the best for them, and good, firm potting is neces-
sary to secure a steady and well-hardened growth.
Sufficient room should be left in the pots to allow
of three or four slight top-dressings later on in the
season. The plants should be fairly moist at the
time of potting, and they must be well watered in
before the ball of old soil gets really dry, or a loss
of foliage will probably result.

The Kitchen Garden.

Parsnips should be thinned when nicely in the
rough leaf, and if fairly strong might be finished
right off at the one thinning, say, to a foot or
15 inches apart, after which give a good sooting
and break up the ground nicely with the hoe.

Early Carrots also may be thinned to the requisite
distance apart. If of the Shorthorn varieties,
4 inches to 6 inches is sufficient space to allow them ;
but the longer varieties should be allowed from
9 inches to i foot apart. Where there is any fly
on the foliage, it should be carefully sprayed with
paraffin emulsion or some other insecticide.

Runner Beans in boxes or pots and Sweet Corn
should be gradually hardened off preparatory to
planting in the open ; also Marrows and Gourds,
as after this week one feels comparatively safe
from frosts here in the South.

Fruits Under Glass.

Early Muscat Vines that are stoning must be
very carefully handled just now, the least inatten-
tion to airing in the early morning often resulting
in scalded berries, and after being well thinned the
scalding of only three or four berries will often
spoil the appearance of a bunch. Plenty of
moisture is very necessary at all times now, but an
excess of it in the atmosphere as the temperature
rises, with insufficient ventilation, often results
in scalding.

Front Ventilation on Muscats I am not at all

in favour of, particularly if the house is fairly
high at the eaves. I think this is more pro-
ductive of red spider than anything else, a draught
of air right through the house drying the atmo-
sphere far too quickly.

Hardy Fruit.

Figs on walls and in sheltered positions are now
pushing forward their fruit, the somewhat mild
winter being favourable to them. Where the
roots are partially confined, a good soaking of liquid
manure at this stage will help them very much,
but it is hardly wise to give it to them unless it is
noted that the fruit is swelling a little.

Forced Strawberries that have come through

the houses in a clean condition may be planted
(if required) to make up a permanent bed, and
such plants, especially of the variety Vicomtesse
Hericart de Thury, will often give a very fair crop
of fruit in August and September. Needless to
add, watering will have to be resorted to until
the plants get a good hold of the soil.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)
Woburn Place Gardens, Addleslone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Bedding-Out. — Beds which have been occupied
by Wallflowers should receive an extra supply
of manure, as these exhaust the soil very much.
Where Begonias are to be planted, the ground
should have a good admixture of flaky material,
such as old Mushroom manure or good leaf-mould,
plus bone-meal. The hardier things, such as
Geraniums, should be planted first, the more tender
things, such as Begonias and Cannas, being left
till the last.

Dahlias. — The plants should now be fully
exposed, but planting should be delayed till June
comes in, especially in districts where late frosts
are of frequent occurrence.

Planting Auriculas and Primroses. — Where

these are dotted about the herbaceous beds and
borders, and it is the intention to increase the stock
or to replant more deeply, this is a good time to
do so ; and as these plants all incline to get leggy,
they should be planted so deeply that the lower
leaves will be almost at the ground-level.

The Reserve Garden.

Spring Bedding. — Many subjects will now have
to be removed from the flower garden and planted
in the reserve garden. They will include Arabises,
Primroses, Polyanthuses, Auriculas and Daisies.
Arabis can be planted without roots, which it will
soon make if planted deeply and firmly. All
the others named should be broken up, according
to the size of the plant, and planted rather deeply
in lines about one foot apart and from 6 inches
to 9 inches apart in the rows.

The Rose Garden.

Aphis. — Many of the Hybrid Teas will soon be
in flower, and, before, this occurs, care should be
taken that the bushes are free of aphis. As already
suggested. Quassia Chips Extract, XL All Liquid
Insecticide or soapsuds may be applied with
equally good results.

Suckers. — A close watch must be kept for these,
and they should be removed at once.

Climbers. — It is a waste of energy to allow a
number of superfluous shoots to develop and then
cut them away. By removing these now the vigour
of those retained will be increased by means of
the extra sap and light at their disposal.

Plants Under Glass.

Hibiscus Manihot. — This erect-growing Hibiscus
makes an excellent conservatory plant, its one
drawback being that the individual blooms are
short-lived. Seeds sown early in spring will yield
a batch of plants which will bloom in autumn,
but seeds sown in heat now will give nice strong
plants for next season. The plant requires a warm
greenhouse temperature.

Perpetual Carnations. — Young stock in 3-inch
pots should be potted on, using 5-inch pots. Good
yellow loam, with the addition of a little sharp
sand, wood-ashes and dry cow or sheep manure,
will suit them at this juncture. All young stock
will now be better in cold frames, which should
be well ventilated. Vaporise for aphis.

Fruits Under Glass.
Thinning Late Grapes. — This work is sometimes

apt to be overlooked iu the height of the bedding-
out season. It is work, however, which, if delayed,
becomes incre.isingly difficult, and should therefore
receive attention at all hazards. I repeat the
advice given on this subject earlier in the season —
see that hands and scissors are clean, use a forked
piece of wood for manipulating the bunches, retain
the largest berries so far as is consistent with
equal distribution of these, and preserve the full
circumference of the bunch.

Ventilation Overnight. — Unless the weather is
cold and gusty it is an advantage to leave a chink
of air on overnight, and in the case of early crops
beginning to show colour it is specially advisable.

Tomatoes. — Continue to feed the earlier crops
in pots, but see to it that the plants are not really
dry at the root when the feeding is applied.
Continue to tie later crops and see that all lateral
shoots are promptly pmched out.

Melons. — Where fruits are ripening, water must
be gradually reduced. Fruits are sometimes cut
too soon by those who are inexperienced. Two tests
are applicable — a well-ripened fruit should have a
rich aromatic scent, and should begin to crack
round the stalk.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Gooseberries for Tarts. — These are much in
demand in most establishments, and in some
gardens a proportion of Whinham's Industry is
grown specially for this purpose. If, however,
the crop is an average one and the fruits are
judiciously thinned, the general crop will be im-
proved rather than injured by the removal of a
proportion of the fruits at an early stage.

Caterpillars. — Should this pest assert itself
it may still be annihilated by spraying with arsenate
of lead, as previously directed, but the fruits must
not be used within a month of its application.

The Kitchen Garden.

Planting Celery. — This work will now require
attention. As indicated in the calendar last week,
the width of the trench and the number of rows to a
trench are immaterial matters provided each plant is
allowed from 12 square inches to 15 square inches
to develop. Give a good watering after planting.

Staking Runner Beans, — This work should
receive attention as soon as the growth is a few
inches high. Tall, bare branches, or sawn stakes
similar to those used for Hollyhocks — undressed,
of course — will suit them.

Sowing Kidney Beans. — A late sowing should

be made within the next week. If the ground is
dry, water the seed lines well after sowing, and do
not allow the seed to become dry till germination
takes place.

Herbs. — Plant out those which were raised
from seed. Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

May 24, 1913]

THE GARDEN.

271

CHRYSANTHEMUM NOTES.

box-struck
should be

PLANTS FOR THE FILOWER GARDEN.

THE early-flowering varieties are not
grown in the flower garden as exten-
sively as they deserve. Dahlias, too,
may be associated with them, but in
separate beds, of course. Many
amateurs have in their gardens nice
plants at the present time. These
planted out during the latter part of
May or early in June in the beds in which they are
to flower. The soil should be enriched with well-
rotted manure, and, if of a heavy nature, properly
broken up. The young Chrysanthemums will
soon get established, form side branches and make
neat specimens, flowering, according to variety,
from July to November.

In many gardens there are comer or out-of-the-
way beds which, if filled with Chrysanthemums,
would provide flowers for cutting and placing in
vases. The best effect is obtained when distinct
varieties are planted in each bed, but a border
in an obscure part of the garden may be filled
with a number of varieties. July, August and
September flowering varieties may, with good
effect, be associated with other kinds of bedding-
out subjects, such as Fuchsias, Liliums, Lantanas
and Heliotrope. Directly the plants — growing in
separate beds — are established and have formed
plenty of new roots, commence to feed them,
diluted cow and stable liquid being very beneficial.
Those plants growing with other kinds must not
have manure-water, except in cases where the
soil is very poor, as a too gross growth of the othex
subjects might result. Many varieties of the
early-flowering singles look charming in the flower
garden.

Pompons for Cutting. — In a cosy comer in the
vegetable garden, or other suitable quarter, a
nice batch of Pompons may be planted for supply-
ing cut blossoms for small as well as large vases
in the autumn. I have grown them in this way
for many years with great success, using small
sprays for low vases on the tables, and cutting
them with long stems for placing in the tall trumpet
vases either by themselves or mixed with the large-
flowered sorts. In any form they look charming
in vases. It is advisable to plant these varieties
in rows about three feet apart in a border, so that
it will be quite convenient to put on a temporary
covering in the autumn to shield the flowers from
early frosts, as the blooms continue to open
throughout the months of October, November
and a part of December. Mats and scrim drawn
over a skeleton lath arrangement will form sufficient
protection as a rule. Avon.

THE FIFTY BEST MORAINE
PLANTS.

THE selections of fifty best alpines which
have appeared in recent issues have
created so much interest that I am now
asked to give my personal list of fifty
best plants for the moraine. The
conditions of this selection are different
from those of the last. In the first place, the
question is far less general and the experience
much less diffused, complete, and of old standing.
Each moraine, like each gardener, has its special
favourites, and the pet results of one moraine are
not necessarily those of its neighbour across the

wall. Again, the moraine being a very special
affair, there is no need in this choice to trouble
about " utility " plants, such as the Aizoon Saxi-
frages, which will grow anywhere. 1 mean to allow
myself, in fact, an orgy of special treasures, in
repayment for the cruel excisions X was forced to
make in the general list ; since it is for these that
the moraine exists. As to the conditions of this,
let me postulate a moraine of some three parts
chips to one part good compost of peat, leaf-mould
and sand (a larger percentage of soil than I have
suggested hitherto), watered by a subterranean
perforated pipe some 12 inches to 15 inches down,
but sharply drained ; for more and more do I
grow to distrust cemented bottoms, unless, indeed,
your slope is very specially rapid and your climate
of a very specially Saharan torridness. And in
this mixture, then, I will allow myself a free hand
in clioice, and advise my friends to follow it without
fear of disappointment if they succeed. But it
must be remembered that my selection is purely
personal, haphazard and incomplete. Many things
arc omitted simply as imtried, such as Dryas ; and
my own blank failure hitherto with most Gentians
and Potentilla nitida in the moraine is very likely a
mere matter of conditions — a little soil the more,
or some question of treatment — though I confess
to doubting Gentians as a family for the moraine,
despite the fact that one of my G. Clusii is now
wearing a beautiful flower. But in one place
very often I think a given plant enjoys moraine,
and yet refuses to put up with another apparently
like it somewhere else, where, perhaps, the con-
ditions are not precisely such as to suit it. It
was some time before any of my moraines suited
Dianthus neglectus, which forms huge, grassy
masses in open and rather inferior soil here.

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE.

Paeonia arborea La Lorraine. — A remarkable
hybrid Tree Psony, said to have originated from the
crossing of P. Moutan with P. lutea, MM. V.
Lemoine et Fils, Nancy, being the raisers. The
flowers are very full and double, somewhat formal
in outline, five inches or so across, and of a buS
tone, pcissing to yellow. The bases of the petals
low down are of a reddish colour. The foliage
is glaucous. Exhibited by Messrs. J. Piper and
Sons, Bayswater.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Heliotrope The Speaker. — A dark-coloured,

richly-perfumed variety with large trusses of
flowers. From Mr. P. Ladds, Swanley.

Rose Miss Flora Mitten. — A perfectly single-
flowered Rose of great charm, by reason of the large
saucer-like flowers of pinky white, which appear
in big clusters on greenish, almost thomless growths.
The foliage, too, is large and hard-looking. A
good climbing Rose. From Mr. J. Elliott, Has-
socks, Sussex.

Rhododendron Rose Queen. — The name is
somewhat descriptive of a beautiful variety, which
is also very freely flowered. The flowers are
drooping, warm rose pink without and paler within.

Rhododendron Wightii. — A beautiful variety
with creamy yellow bell-like flowers. The foliage is
green above and fuscous brown below, save for the
midrib, which is pea green. Both came from Miss
Clara Mangles, Littleworth, Scale, Surrey.

Aster Purdomii. — The plant, which is 9 inches
high, is a recent introduction from China, the

Name.
Androsace alpiiia (glacialis)

A. primuloides 4

A. villofia 3

Anthemis Aizoon 5

Asperula Athoa 3

Artemisia splendens 4

Aster alpinus 6

Campanula alpestris (Allionil) '. 3

" " 1

3
6
3
4
4

Height.
Inches.

1 Rose white

Colour.

Date of
Floweritig.
May-June . . ,

C. cenisia
C. exclsa .
C.pulla.. .
C. Kaineri
C. Zoysii .
Cyananthus lobatus .

Pink

Pearly white ,,

Wliite Summer

Pink „

Silver leaves ,,

Purple ,,

,, June

Electric blue Summer . . . .

Violet Late summer .

Soil.

Non-calcareous, soft,

and rich
Ordinary

Non-calcareous

cool

Blue.

Delphinium nudicaule 6

Dianthus alpinus

D. arvernensis

D. Freynii

D. neglectus

D. glacialis

D. sylvestris

Eritricbium nanum

Electric blue ,,

Scarlet June

Rich rose ,,

Pink

Pink white , ,

Fiery rose ,

Rose , .

The blue of blues

Iberis petnea

Leontopodium alpinum (Flannel-flower).

Linaria alpina

Lithospermum Gastonli

2 White ,,

6 Silver white All the summer ,

3 Violet and gold ... . ,, ,,

4 Blue Summer

Mertensia primuloides

Morisia hypoga?a

Myosotis nipicola

Papaver alpinum

PetrocalUs pyrenaica

Primula intermedia

P. spectabiUs

Polemonium confertum melUtum

Ranunculus alpestris

R. glacialis

R. pamassifolius

K. Seguieri

Saxifraga Burseriana magna

S. caesia

S. Bumalii

S. Faldonside

S. Grisebachii

Silene Elizabetha-

S. Hookeri

Soldauella pyrolEefolia

Thlaspi limose Use folium

Veronica canesceiis

Viola cenisia

Wahlenbergia Pumilio

Inglebornugh, Lancaster

4
4
6
4
6
4
5
3
4
6
4
6
3
5
5
4

H

4
3

Blue to amethyst . . , ,

Yellow Early summer . .

Blue June

White to rose All the summer .

Whity pink June

Rosy lilac April

, , April-May . . . .

White Summer

, , All the season .

White to red June

White May

February-March
June

Yellow March

Red Marcb-April . . .

Rose re d Summer

Rose pink June

Lilac March-April . . .

, , May- June

Blue All the summer .

Violet Summer

, Early summer .

Calcareous

Ordinary

Calcareous
Ordinary

Ordinary or non-calcareous

Non -calcareous

Ordinary

Non -calcareous, rich , cool

and light
Ordinary

Ver>' calcareous,
pure lime-rubble
Ordinary, cool
Ordinary, clry
Ordinary

Calcareous
Ordinary

Damp, calcareous
Damp, D on-calcareous
Damp calcareous
Drier calcareous
Ordinary or calcareous

Ordinary

Damp, rich and silty
Ordinary
Fine and sandy
Ordinary
Calcareous
Reginald F.^hrer.

272

THE GAKDEN.

[May 24, 1913.

florets coloured a lilac mauve. From Messrs.
J. Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea.

Thunbergia Gibsonii. — A remarkable plant
from East Africa. The flowers are self-coloured and
of a rich, refined orange tone. Of apparently
perennial duration, the plant would appear to be a
ground creeper, though would probably climb
with age. As shown, flowers or buds were appear-
ing from almost every leaf-axil, the pedicels being
about six inches high. The leaves are almost
rhomboid, lobed and somewhat hairy. From
Mr. William Van der Weyer, Corfe Castle,
Dorset.

Carnation Lady Shrewsbury. — A very full,
handsome pink-flowered variety that is sure to
find many admirers. From Messrs. William
Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, N.

Tulip Blassenet. — A very handsome Darwin
variety, rose pink coloured externally and flesh-
tinted within. It is a beautifully shaded flower,
cream and pink, pleasingly associated, and in fine
contrast with the electric blue and green coloured
base. From Messrs. Bath, Wisbech.

NEW ORCHIDS.

New Orchids to gain awards of merit were
Brasso-Laslio-Cattleya Veitchii The Dell, from
Baron Brmio SchrSder ; Laelio-Cattleya Fasci-
nator X Mossioe, sent by Sir Trevor Lawrence ;
and Odontoglossum Phoebe splendens, from Messrs.
J. and A. McBean.

The foregoing were shown before the Royal
Horticultural Society on May 14, when the awards
were made.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

SPRAYING FRUIT TREES.

THE month of May is an important
period to the fruit-grower, who has
many enemies in the shape of insect
pests to contend with. Having
already seen the eflect of winter
spraying for the removal of moss
and lichen from the trees, as well as the
diminution of Psylla or Apple-sucker by the free
use of lime and salt before the blossoms unfolded,
I would like to advise those who have in the past
been troubled with Apple scab that they need not
now have their fruit disfigured by this fungus
if they will but take the trouble to spray
with Strawsonite, commonly known as Bordeaux
mixture, at the rate of ijlb. of Strawsonite to
100 gallons of water. This spraying should take
place directly the blossoms fall. Last year I
commenced on May 14 with this mixture. Should
the trees be affected with winter moth caterpillar,
arsenate of lead can be used in conjunction with
Strawsonite, thus saving the trouble of a second
spraying. To 100 gallons of cold water add lolb.
of Strawsonite and 31b. of Strawson's Swift Arsenate.
The arsenate of lead is procurable in paste form.
This should be dissolved first in a small quantity of
water, adding it afterwards to the bulk when
thoroughly dissolved. If the trees are carefully
sprayed, Apple scab will be thoroughly extermi-
nated, and I think all will agree, if this is so, that
one of the greatest pests the Apple-grower has to
contend with will have been eliminated.

In some seasons, when the fruit begins to swell
after the spraying, a coating of rust may be seen

on much of the fruit ; indeed, in some cases to an
apparently alarming extent, so much so that the
spraying is often blamed for this apparent dis-
figurement. Last year much of my fruit was so
affected. I found, as time went on, this rust dis-
persed and did no harm, not even disfiguring the
fruit. The cause is one of adverse weather at
spraying- time. When cold and sunless, the
tender skin of the Apple is affected by the chemicals
used. If the weather were of a more genial
character, this rust would not be perceptible.
I take this opportunity to point out to the inex-
perienced what may happen, but to assure them
no harm will follow, always supposing the materials
used are of the best and the quantities recom-
mended are not exceeded.

I never saw the trees so free from Psylla (Apple-
sucker) as they are this season. Warner's King
is profusely flowered, and this variety is one of
the first to indicate the presence of this pest. On
all the trees of this Apple I have not seen a single
caterpillar as yet. If there is no sign of caterpillar,
the arsenate of lead is not required. Simply use
Strawsonite for the prevention of Apple scab
(Fusicladium dentriticum). Cox's Orange Pippin
is more delicate in its leaf tissue and is liable
to be damaged by the ordinary strength of
spray fluid beneficial to other sorts, therefore
should not be sprayed with so strong a
solution. E. MoLYNEUx.

THE ROSE OUTLOOK FOR
1913.

So far as we in Mid-Sussex are concerned, the out-
look for the coming Rose season is by no means
black, and may be taken as about up to the average.
We have lost but little wood through frost, and
despite the only partial ripening of many varie-
ties, the wood cut firm and promising down at
the pruning point. I sometimes fancy we are
more concerned about the fuller ripening of our
Roses than we need be, and this seems more so
since the advent of our Hybrid Teas, which do not
matiu'e their points of late growth so much as
was the case with the older Hybrid Perpetuals.
This is only natural when we consider that our
present-day Roses consist largely of autumnal
bloomers instead of summer flowerers only, as was
the case of the majority before the advent of the
glorious hybrids that are now more or less con-
tinuous right up to the advent of frost. In almost
all cases this class of Rose matures its lower growth
in a surprisingly good condition. One notes this
soon after the second flowering growth has formed,
and we generally have to cut back all of the third
crop of growth, whether ripe or not. On the whole,
our Roses are breaking evenly, and are not at all
in a dangerously forward condition, especially
when we take into accoimt the remarkably mild
season experienced in this district.

Transplanted Roses are looking fairly well,
and those moved early in the spring are as sound
as any planted during late autumn. The stocks,
too, put out for working upon next summer are
looking even, a few that were not earthed-up
being the worst. Buds inserted in 1912 are up
to the average, except in the case of a few varieties
on standard Briars, which seem bound, much the
same as we often find them after a severe winter.
In this case we shall leave more young wood
beyond the Rose-buds than usual for a time to
encourage their breaking. A. P.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
make Thk Gakden helpful to all readers who desire ass^tst-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
loith that object mil make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should he
clearly and concisely wrUten on one side of the pa/per only
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for nam,ing should be dearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or 7noss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on Irusiness should be sent to the Publisher.

FLOWER GARDEN.

SWEET-SCENTED PLANTS FOR NARROW BORDER

(Miss M). — You could not do better than plant Stocks
of several sections to give a succession of flowers, with
whit© Tobacco at the back and a bordering of the Night-
scented Stock for the front. Of the first two you h&ve
to secure plants, while of the third you might still make
a sowing where it would remain for flowering. You do
not give the width of the border : hence we cannot gauge
how much or how little may be required.

LILIUMS FROM SEED {Redp Us). Seeds of Lilium
giganteum, and other kinds of Lilies also, are often very
erratic in the way they germinate, especially if the seeds
have been allowed to dry at all before sowing. They
sometimes vegetate in six or eight weeks, and at other
times Lie in the soil for twelve months before any growth
in noticed. It is not necessary to provide any considerable
heat; an ordinary warm greenhouse will furniBb all that
is required. Hakea eucalyptoides will succeed in either
a cool or a warm greenhouse. The seeds take from two
months to six months to germinate. Sandy peat should
be provided for this plant.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

INJURY TO MAGNOLIAS (Shirimarfc).^V/G think
the Magnolias must be exposed to cold draughts. There
is no fungOB or insect upon them to account for the
browning of which you complain.

CISTUS CUTTINGS (Redpits). —Cnttiags of various
kinds of Clstus should be taken in July. They should
be made about three inches long and be inserted in pots
or beds of sandy soil. If in pots, a good watering shoold
be given, and the pots shoiUd then be plunged in fibre
in a close, cool frame. Subsequent watering must be
done very carefully, and the frame shoold be opened
for half-an-hour or so each day to allow superfiaous
moisture to dry up. During bright sunshine a blind
must be placed over the glass. If the cuttings are to
be inserted in a bed, a bed of soil should be made up
in a cold frame and the cuttings Inserted 1 inch to 2 inches
apart. A good compost consists of two parts good
loam, one part leaf-mould and one part silver sand. The
frame must be kept close until roots are formed, after
which time air must be admitted freely. Young plants
should be potted singly in small pots until they can be
put out in permanent places, for they do not transplant
well from the open ground. As a rule, cuttings root
better in a cool than in a heated frame.

IS IVY POISONOUS TO OTHER PLANTS? {Clossy),—
We have never had experience of Ivy roots being poisonous
to other plants, and have frequently associated Ivy with
other shrubs without noticing that anything nnusual
has happened to plants in the vicinity. In some gardens
it ia a common practice to combine Ivy with some other
climber, such as Clematis Jackmanii or Jasmlnum nudi-
florum, on walls, while Ivies of shrubby growth are con-
stantly mixed with other shrubs in shrubberies. We do
not think for a moment that the Ivy of which you speak
caused the Rhododendrons to become unhealthy, neither
is it necessary to take the precautions you suggest for
shutting the roots of the Ivy out from the Rhododendron-
bed — that is on account of poisonous properties ; bat it
might be advisable to cut the Ivy roots back to stop them
from robbing the Khododendrous of food material.
Hypericum calycinum forms a good evergreen border
plant for a shady place, but to keep it in good condition
it should be cut back fairly hard each spring. There is
no really good evergreen, self-clinging climber other than
Ivy, but a good deciduous one is Hydrangea petiolaris.
The latter climbs in the same way as the Ivy, by means
of aerial roots. If Ivy were really poisonous to tree and
shrub growth, it would kill trees and shrubs in woods,
for there are woods which are practically covered with
an undergrowth of common Ivy. In gardens it is a common
practice to clothe the ground beneath trees, where grass
will not grow, with Ivy, and neither one harms the other.
We know such coverings where clumps of Daffodils have
been growing among the Ivy for the last twenty years.

■,^fc»-_

a?5Gr^-

GARDEN.

-73<5'=

s^fcsg

No. 2167.— Vol. LXXVII.

May 31, 191 3.

CONTENTS.

Notes of the Week

273

Notes on Tclips . .

279

Correspondence

.Maintaining a Lawn

Carnation L a d v

IN Good condition

28U

Ingestre

274

Frdit Garden

The colour of Au-

Seasonable notes, on

briettas . . . .

274

Grape Vines

280

Aphis on Spruce . .

274

Gardening for Beginners

A simple border for

•»1

HowtogrowOurisia

275
275

The importance of

A plea for perfume

early mulching . .
The right distance

281

Forthcoming events. .

275

apart for bedding-

New .\nd Rare

out plants . .

281

Plants

275

Gardening of the Week

f LOWER Garden

For Southern gar-

Grouping flowere for

dens

282

colour

276

For Northern gar-

Some good but com-

dens

282

mon gaitlen plants

276

Greenhouse

■Gardens of Today

Seasonable notes on

Trebah, Cornwall . .

277

Auriculas . .

283

Rose Gardes

Answers to Corre-

New dwarf and climb-

spondents

ing Polyantha

Flower garden

28 a

Roses

278

Rose garden . .

283

The Rose as a but-

Fruit garden . .

283

ton-hole flowei . .

279

Miscellaneous

284

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

IIiIiU ST RATIONS.

MeconopsisDelavayi 274

Cupre.ssu3 lawsoniana Fletcheri 274

Roscoea cautloides 275

White Honesty in a wild garden at Bishop's Stortfoid 276

.\ tine specimen of Pittosporum eugenioides variegata 277

A view in the gardens at Trebah 278

'Campanula Stevensii nana 279

A simple autunui border of Chrysanthemums ,. .. 281

HDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes Tphotographs, articles and notes,
but he mil not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, hoicever, icill be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
■contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must he distinctly understood that only the actual photo,
rjrapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
tor literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
<he receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
^fe recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20. Tavistock Street, Covent Garden. W.C.

Our Rock Garden Competition.— We would
remind our readers that June i is the last
day for sending in photographs of reels gardens
for our competition, full particulars of which
have appeared in many previous issues.

The Chelsea Show.— We wish to thanic all
those readers who have so kindly sent us letters
of appreciation relating to our Special Double
Number published last week. It was only by the
aid of thoroughly up-to-date printing machines
and a band of enthusiastic helpers that we were
able to have copies at the show by 3 p.m. on
Wednesday. Some of the photographs reproduced
in that issue were not taken imtil iz noon on the
Tuesday.

Record of the International Horticultural

Exhibition. — Now that a year has elapsed since
the great International Horticultural Exhibition
was held at Chelsea, it is not unreasonable to ask
when the official record, of which so much was heard
last yecir, is likely to be published ? It would
almost seem that the muddle which characterised
many of the arrangements of an otherwise success-
ful show is retarding the appearance of this long-
promised volume.

Honour (or Mr. R. A. Rolle.— We are pleased
to leam that the French Acad^mie Internationale
de G6ographie Botanique has awarded to Mr.
R. A. Rolfe its Scientific Medal in recognition of
his work among Orchids. In addition to bis
valuable work in the Kew Herbarium, Mr. Rolfe
has edited the Orcltid Revietv since its commence-
ment in 1893. The honour is conferred upon Mr.
Rolfe at a fitting time, as it marks the coming-of-
age of the Orchid Review.

Tulip Disease.— This is different from " fire "
referred to on page 249 last week, and may be
known by the stem decaying at or below the ground-
level, so that it parts company with the bulb with
the gentlest pull. Black spots, varying in size
from a pin's head to a small Pea, are present on
the bulb under the outer covering, and on the bit
of stem left adhering to it. All the plants must
be at once rooted up and burnt, and the ground
not used for Tulips for at least two seasons.

Home-Grown Cascara Sagrada.— In recent years
attention has been called to the possibility of this
valuable laxative, prepared from Rhamnus purshi-
ana, proving a remunerative culture in the British
Isles. The bark collected from home-grown trees
has been shown to possess medicinal properties
indistinguishable from those of American cascara.
Mr. W. J. Bean gives some interesting facts con-
cerning the possibility of growing Rhamnus
purshiana on a commercial basis in this cotmtry
in a recent issue of the Kew Bulletin ; but in
his opinion, in view of the prices at present obtain-
able for cascara sagrada, it scarcely seems likely
that it would prove a paying crop.

Testimonial to the Rev. W. Wilks. — We

understand that the testimonial subscribed to by
Fellows of the Royal Horticultural Society as an
appreciation of Mr. Wilks' twenty-five years'
work in connection with the Royal Horticultural
Society was formally presented to him at his
residence on Saturday last. We believe the
amount subscribed exceeded £600. .\s we have
a.lready pointed out, Mr. Wilks has done yeoman
service for the society for more than a quarter
of a century, and its present flourishing condition
is largely due to his enterprise and energy.

A Beautiful Bulbous Plant.— One of the most
interesting and beautiful plants in the outdoor
garden just now is Habranthus pratensis, a rather
rare native of Chili, that many fail to grow
really well. It was sho^vn in good condition
by a few exhibitors at the Chelsea Show last week.
The flowers, which resemble those of a miniature
.\maryllis, are vivid scarlet with a greenish yellow
throat, and are borne on stems i foot to 15 inches
high and from four to six on a stem. We have a
little colony doing well on a south border, the
soil being good, rather rich loam. Sim after
flowering appears to be one of their principal
requirements.

Roses with Beautiful Stems and Foliage.—
Although Roses have not yet opened their flowers
in many localities, the beds are not devoid of
interest, for the young stems and foliage of many
varieties are exceedingly charming. Take that
beautiful Rose Griiss an Teplitz. Its dull crimson,
mottled green leaves form a picture of rare beauty
when kissed by the morning sun. Then note the
glossy green of American Pillar, the deep crimson
of Marquise de Sinety, the pale crimson and green
of Gustave Regis, the blood red shoots and spines
of White Killamey, and the red stems contrasting
so well with the green leaves of Miss Cynthia
Forde. All are beautiful in their way. and we
hope this phase of Rose glory will receive its due
recognition in nurserymen's catalogues.

Forget-me-not in the Pleasure Grounds.- The

value of the beautiful blue-flowered Myosotis
alpestris, as cultivated in masses in the pleasure
grounds at Kew, is worth considering. It is com-
paratively little trouble, self-sown seedlings coming
up freely in favourable positions. Very pretty
effects are obtained when used as a groundwork
in borders and large beds of shrubs. One particu-
larly effective combination is the pale mauve
pink Tamarix tetraudra, with the Forget-me-not
as a groundwork. Beds or groups of the following
shrubs, which are all pruned fairly severely in
spring, because they flower in late summer and
autumn, may be carpeted with Myosotis : Tamarix
pentandra, Hydrangea paniculata, Spirasa Aitchi-
sonii, S. Lindleyi, Buddleia variabilis and varie-
ties, autumn-flowering varieties of Ceanothus and
Hypericum Henryi. Self-sown seedlings, or plants
sown where they are to flower, as a rule give a
better carpet than when transplanted.

274

THE GARDEN.

[May 31, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is not responsible for Ihc opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Carnation Lady Ingestre. — We were exhibiting
at the meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society
held on May 14 a new seedling Carnation, for
which we received an award of merit. We find

MECONOPSIS DELAVAYI, A NEW AND RARE
SPECIES WITH IMPERIAL PURPLE
FLOWERS, SHOWN AT CHELSEA.

that by an error the bloom was named Lady
Shrewsbury, which was incorrect ; the name of
the Carnation should have been Lady Ingestre. —
William Cutbush and Son.

The Colour of Aubrietias. — Many as are :he
varieties of this good sprmg flower, I think we have
not yet arrived at the very best type of colour
for general gardening. It may be that, being un-
able to visit nurseries and private gardens, I am
not in a position to judge ; but it appears to me
that the tendency with seed-growers is to push
them too much towards reds and very strong red
purples. We seem to want a type of good middle
strength of colour, but of the cooler rather than
the hotter class ; that is to say, inclining to the
colour of lavender in the lighter shades and to that
of violets in the darker. I fully appreciate the
glorious colour of the variety Dr. Mules and the
fine bloom of the one named Lavender ; but a
whole bank of Dr. Mules would be dazzling and
yet a trifle monotonous, whereas a bank of the
colour I have in mind, with a small drift of Dr.
Mules or any one of the strong purples, wovfld be
not only more interesting, but, as I venture to think.

incomparably more beautiful. The fine variety
Lavender is a little spoilt by the white eye, which
cuts up the mass, and as it is a plant that one wants
to use in quantity, it would be desirable that the
whole colour of the flower should be as even as
possible. — G. Jekvli..

Aphis on Spruce.— Complaints from widely
different districts are heard of the attack upon
Spruce by the green fly (Aphis abietina). It is a
fairly well-known pest, appearing here and there
when conditions favour development, necessitating
sometimes spraying with insecticide. This spring,
however, the attack is much more severe than usual,
every leaf on some trees of Picea pungens glauca,
the Blue Spruce, turning brown and dropping
off owing to punctures by the pest. By the side
of the lake at Kew damage is being done, in addition
to this plant, to the Sitka Spruce, P. sitchensis,
P. hondoensis, the common Spruce, P. excelsa
and varieties, and it is also spreading to the rare
P. morindoides. The only suggestion advanced
so far to account for the widespread destruction
this year is the unusually mild winter, there not
being sufficient frost to destroy the eggs laid
in autumn. In Ireland, also, considerable damage
is reported. Careful watch should be kept by
everyone having charge of Spruce, whether the
trees are few or many, as there is no outward appear-
ance of the pest till the damage is done. It belongs
to the same family as the common green fly of our
greenhouses and gardens (Rophalosiphon Dianthi),
but is much more destructive. Vigorous spraying
with insecticide is necessary to check its spread.
We are using a mixture of 2lb. of Quassia chips,
4 pints of paraflSn, ijlb. of soft soap, and sufficient
Tobacco water to colour it brown, to 36 gallons of
water. — O. A.

The Fifty Best Alpines.— In Mr. Smith's article
on Saxifraga burseriana of your issue for May 17,
page 238, he refers to the setacea group cf Phloxes,
which I did not include among my first fifty plants.
My experience does not lead me to think that the
chalk mentioned would improve our soil here to keep
the plants from burning. I was something in
the position of Mr. Farrer when suggesting my
first fifty plants, having a large number over,
which had to be reduced to fifty, and that was
the reason of my leaving out this most beautiful sec-
tion of Phloxes, as I have never seen them more
beautiful than this year. The wet and showery
time has just suited them. We have here some
thirty large masses of these (in variety) from
I yard to 2 yards across each plant, and they present
a gorgeous display surrounded by Phlox reptans,
Lithospermum Heavenly Blue, Aubrietia Dr.
Mules and Phlox divaricata Laphamii. To see
one of these grand masses burnt just when in full
bloom is enough to make one weep. By some,
plants are more there by name than anything
else, and-jf it is a small plant, such as just turned
out of a 3-inch pot, this burning is hardly noticed.
Another great point of Phlox reptans is that it
is in flower from April to October, and, after all,
it is the array of flowers that creates enthusiasts,
as take, for instance, the interest evinced in the
flowers at any great show in looking over the great
trade exhibits, and a little success for a start is
better than so many failures. — G. F. Hyland,
The Gardens, Ashby St. Ledgers, Rugby.

Primula cockburniana. — Mr. Amott raises an
interesting point in the issue of The Garden for
May 10, page 229, when he asks how far is it
perennial. The article throughout is brimful of
interest to lovers of hardy flowers, and this Primula,
which is in the eyes of some the most beautiful for

massing, is worthy of due consideration and collected
knowledge. The plant is certainly a perennial,
but, unfortunately, a difficult one, and the question
naturally arises in one's mind : Is it wise to con-
sider it a perennial or not ? I say " No " ; but give
the world to understand that it is a biennial, and
there will be no disappointments. Grown as a
biennial, sow the seed as soon as ripe, prick off the
seedlings in a sandy compost, and winter in a cold
frame. Pot them singly in 3j-inch pots, when
growth commences in the spring, in a sandy loam
with the addition of a little leaf-soil and old cow- M
manure, and plant out in May in a well-drained bed ^
in a half-shady position. Ordinary garden soil,
with the addition of a good dressing of well-seasoned
cow-manure and a liberal quantity of grit well
mixed through the soil, forms a nice rooting medium,
and in the autumn, before the leaves fade, top-
dress with good loam, with one-third very coarse
sand added. P. cockburniana is quite hardy,
but damp it will not stand ; therefore a deep and

CUPRESSUS LAWSONIANA FLETCHERI, A
NEW DWARF SHRUB FOR THE ROCK
GARDEN.

perfect drainage is the greatest essential in retaining
a " perennial " habit, coupled with a position that
stands dry in winter. Having grown this beautiful
Primula in fairly large quantities since its intro-
duction, I must confess that it has been a failure
as a perennial.— D. L., Sheffield. [Our corre-
spondent sends a photograph showing a splendid
colony of this Primula, but, unfortunately, it was
not suitable for reproduction. — Ed.]

May 31. 1913]

THE GARDEN.

275

How to Grow Ourisia coccinea.— This trouble-
some subject is doing well and flowering in a rock
bed at Terregles, Dumfries, the residence of Mr.
C. E. Galbraith, where alpines are doing admir-
ably under the care of Mr. William Hutchinson,
the gardener, and his staff. I know of a few
gardens in this locality where it thrives well,
notably the garden of General Stewart at Carruchan,
Dumfries, where the Ourisia has grown and flowered
well for years. At Terregles it is cultivated under
entirely different conditions, being well above the
ordinary level on a rock bed on the top of a low
retaining wall, and in soil composed of about
eighteen inches of ashes below, with about four
inches of road grit and two inches of loam above.
At Carruchan O. coccinea grows on the level, and
in most places where I have seen it thriv-
ing it has been in a lower rather
than in a higher part of the garden.
It is just one of the plants about
which it is impossible to dogmatise
respecting its treatment, and those who
wish to succeed with it will do well
to try it in different positions and
not be disheartened by a few failures.
What is an ideal place according to
the books is not always so in actual
practice. — S. Arnott, Dumfries.

A Plea for Perfume. — I am most

interested to find that at last the lack
of perfume in so many of our otherwise
admirable modem flowers is beginning
to be commented on in print. It
has long been lamented by genuine
amateurs, and more particularly by
those whose lot it is to live in towns.
We continually find so-called Sweet
Peas that are neither sweet nor
shapely, and Roses that " by any
other name " should " smell as
sweet," but that are a snare and
delusion in this respect. And now,
with deep dismay, I read of an award
of merit given by the Royal Horti-
cultural Society to a Wallflower,
as mentioned on page 239 , issue
May 17, lacking in fragrance.
Words fail me (and it is as well
they do, for if 1 could express my
sentiments, you. Sir, would certainly
have to run your blue pencil through
them). As the gentle Elia owned he
had " no ear," so it would seem
that modern florists have " no
noses " ! I do most sincerely hope
that now their attention is being
drawn to the matter, our profes-
sional florists will amend their
former naughty ways, and, ceasing
to be obsessed by the American craze
for mere size and conspicuous colours, they will
restore to our gardens flowers with their former
precious charm of fragrance. — .Anne Amateur.

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

Pentstemon Davldsonii. — A miniature-growing
species from the Rocky Mountains, having greyish,
nearly ovate, slightly-notched leaves, and a sub-

FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATES.
NephrolepiS exaltata Willmottae.— This remark- \ shrubby habit. The flowers are i\ inches long and
able variety, without doubt the least exalted of a

wonderful series of forms, is characterised by great
density, a low, spreading, almost prostrate habit,
and quite diminutive fronds. It has already
received an award of merit. From Messrs. May
and Sous. ICdmonton.

of rose scarlet colour. The flowering plants,
as shown, were 4 inches high. From Mr. Clarence
Elliott, Stevenage.

Auricula William Smith.— A fine green-edged
variety of unusual vigour. The plant carried a
superb truss of flowers. From Mr. J. Douglas,

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

June 3. — Royal Horticultural Society's Show.
Lecture at 3 p.m. by Mr. Spencer Pickering on
" Grass and the Toxicity of Soils." Scottish
Horticultural Association's Meeting.

June 5. — Ltnnean Society's Meeting.

June 7. — Society Franpaise d'Horticulture de
Londres.

June g. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Meeting.

Cupressus lawsoniana Fletcheri. — Promises | Great Bookhara.
well for the rock garden. It is a dwarf, compact- | Saxifraga Grandfleldii.— In all probability a
growing variety of the C. 1. erecto-viridis type, j seed sp.Tt from S. Aizoon lutea, havmg flowers
but of a greyish glaucous colour. A neat plant j of snowy whiteness. The plant shown was nearly
of distinction and merit. See illustration page 274. ' a foot high, and had been raised by the exhibitor
From Messrs Fletcher and Sons, Chertsey. I at Hayes. From Sir Everard Hambro, K.C.V.O.,

Hayes (gardener, Mr. J. Grandfield).

Calceolaria Clarefleld Gem.— The

flowers are bronze and yellow, the
plant a free bloomer and nearly
three feet high. From Mrs. Litkie,
Pinkuey's Green.

Rose Nancy Perkins. — A small-
growing double white flowered variety
of the Polyantha set. The plants
as shown were not more than
0 inches high. Exhibited by Messrs.
T, Perkins and Sons, Drapery,
Northampton.

Rose Irisli Fireflame. — A single-
flowered variety, characterised ex-
ternally by a wonderful tone of
coppery orange colour.

Rose Mrs. Campbell Hall (H.T.) —

.\ shapely and beautiful Rose of
blush pink colour for the most part,
with almost salmon-tipped centre.
These were from Messrs. Alexander
Dickson, Newtownards.

Rose White Tausendschon.—

The name is descriptive and good,
and everybody who knows the
original will welcome this pretty
blush white sport of it, which is in
every way good. From Messrs.
William Paul and Sons, Waltham
Cross.

Begonia Lena. — The thiwers are
deep crimson scarlet and f r r c 1 y
produced in a pendent habit,
which fits It for basket-work.
From Messrs. Blackmore and Lang-
don, Bath.

Roscoea cautloides. — A distinct-
looking plant with yellow flowers
and long, cylindrically - inclined
tuberous roots. It is perhaps more
quaint and distinct than pretty.
From Bees, Limited, Liverpool.
Sarracenia Brucei. — -A^ very distinct and
beautiful plant, having pitchers nearly two feet
high. Of true trumpet shape, expanding in size as
the apex is reached, the plant is remarkable for
the brilliant colouring and venation of the lid and
adjacent parts. These are handsome indeed.
From Mr. A. J. A. Bruce, Chorlton-cum-Hardy,
Manchester.

Aster Falconeri. — It perfectly hardy and
a true perennial, this will prove welcome.
The florets are coloured violet blue, the
flower-heads about four inches across. From
Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden.

Cytisus andreana prostrata.- The varietal
name appears strange when standard plants of

ROSCOEA CAUTLOIDES, A RARE SPECIES, SHOWN BV
MESSRS. BEES AT CHELSEA.

Meconopsis Delavayi. — Probably the most
unique hardy plant novelty of the season. Four
plants were shown less than six inches high, having
roughish hairy entire lance-shap d leaves, and
cupped flowers of almost imperial purple with rich
plum purple shading. The cluster of golden
anthers affords a fine contrast. See illustration
page 274. From the Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Campanula Stevensii nana.— The tufts, less

than two inches high, as shown by Mr. Reginald
Prichard, Wimborne, Dorset, crowded as they were
with large pale blue sub-erect bells, were idolised
by all lovers of alpine plants. It is quite a gem.

276

THE GARDEN.

[May 31, 1913.

4 feet high are shown and a drooping habit revealed.
The flowers are coloured yellow and brown. From
Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond.

Styrax Wilsonii. — Here is a delightful Chinese
plant endowed with not a little of the grace and
charm characteristic of its tribe. Only a small
pot plant was shown, the lower branches having
a lateral spread of 2 feet or more, from the under
sides of which dainty tresses of starry, nearly pure
white flowers dangled from short pedicels. The
habit is elegant indeed. Shown by Miss Willmott,
V.M.H,, Warley Place, Essex.

Lonicera tragophylla. — The yellow, tubular-
formed flowers are fully 4 inches in length, and
even on the small plants of 2 feet high, as shown,
were present in goodly numbers. Exhibited by
Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea.

right use and right placing that will make the
picture, and, in the case of the flowers, show what
they can really do for our most complete enjoy-
ment.

It is proposed to give a series of short notes
suggesting how this may be done, and, for the sake
of those who are beginners in this kind of arrange-
ment, to name examples of good grouping that can
easily be grasped and followed. Thus, for spring
flowers (for greater clearness it will be convenient
to take the groupings in four sections), each group
or section should merge imperceptibly into the
next, and, whatever the shape of the spring garden
may be, it would be well to keep the sequence of
colourings in the order here given :

r. Myosotis dissitiflora, double Arabis, pink
Tulip Rosa Mundi or Cottage Maid, white Prim-

with such as the early Artus and ending with the
splendid tall gesneriana major. Near the front,
between the drifts, some of the reddish-foliaged
Heuchera Richardsoni.

These suggestions suppose a space of garden
ground that can be given to the spring flowers
and is not required for later gardening ; for many
of the best spring flowers, and all the plants of large
foliage, such as Veratrum, Solomon's Seal and
Myrrhis, that so greatly enhance the appearance
of the flowers, have to remain some years in the
ground.

It will be seen that several of the groups, or main
parts of groups, are in close coloiur harmony. The
comparatively slight difference of related colouring
gives that most important quality of gradation
that is a prime necessity in any good pictiure, while
the fairly large spaces of each kind
of colouring, combined with, and
inseparable from this gradation, give
an effect of richness and splendour
such as cannot be obtained by any
one unbroken mass of colour, how-
ever brilliant that colour may be in
itself. G. Jekyll.

WHITE HONESTY IN THE WILD GARDEN AT HALLINGBURY PLACE, BISHOP S STORTFORD

The foregoing awards were made at the Royal
Horticultural Society's Exhibition at Chelsea.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

GROUPING FLOWERS FOR COLOUR.

THE repeated requests for information
and suggestion that have recently
reached the Editor are a proof of the
ever-increasing interest in the subject
of grouping and arranging plants
for colour effect. It is a significant
sign of advance in the character of the aims
of those who love their gardens. No one who
has seen flower-borders or other garden spaces
well arranged for colour effect would ever go
back to haphazard planting. A garden may
contain an ample supply of the best plants, and
the gardener may be the most able of cultivators ;
but if the plants are not placed to good effect it is
only like having the best paints from the best
colourman. In either case, it is only the exactly

roses, white double Daisy, Tiarella cordifolia,
white Tulip Nelly (short, early) and White Swan
(taller and later) ; Veratrum at back.

2. Palest Aubrietia, again double Arabis, Phloxes
amoena, Nelsoni, stellaria and divaricata, Corydalis
ochroleuca, Alyssum, Tulipa retroflexa, palest
yellow Wallflower, yellow Priirurose, Tulips Cbryso-
lora (early) and Golden Crown (later), Doronicum
plantagineum ; at back Sulphin: Crown Imperial,
Solomon's Seal, Veratrum and Myrrhis odorata.

3. Orobus vernus, purple Wallflower, Aubrietia
(middle and deep purple), purple Tulips, especially
Rev. H. Ewbank (pale, moderate height) and the
taller double Bleu Celeste and the fine single
Morales ; dark purple Honesty, and again Solomon's
Seal and Myrrhis. A few white Tulips.

4. Tulips Thomas Moore, La Merveille and
gesneriana aurantiaca (they are named in the right
succession for season and height, the first-named
being the shorter and earlier) ; brown Wallflower
in plenty, both tall and dwarf. At back Berberis
Darwinii and one or two of the red-leaved dwarf
Maples ; a drift or two of scarlet Tulip, beginning

SOME GOOD BUT COMMON
GARDEN PLANTS.

There are some good but common
garden plants whose very common-
ness forms a bar to their cultiva-
tion. These, and some others not
mentioned below, I have long made
a point of finding room for, not,
perhaps, in every case every year,
for some of them are apt to die
out and need reintroducing, and
anyhow in these days, when so many
good things clamour for recognition
and the limits of space are a con-
sideration, it is no loss to allow
plants to go out of cultivation for a
time, that others may have a turn.
At the time of writing.

Honesty is one of the handsomest
t.f flowering plants, not the common
ihrty lilac variety, but a deep purple
crimson one which makes an effective
blotch of colour. The white flower-
ing Honesty is also desirable, for vase
furnishing more especially. All the
seminal variations produce nice cutting material
when the seed-vessels are about half grown ;
and finally, as everybody knows, after the seeds
have dispersed, the whitened dissepiments are
indispensable for decorating. These give the plant
its quaint appellations of Honesty, Silver Plate and
Money-in-both-pockets. Honesty possesses the
happy constitution of thriving under the shade
of Apple and other trees, and in some soils becomes
somewhat of a weed, needing merely to be thinned
to afford a sufficient number of specimens. It is
excellent for the wild garden, grouped as shown in
the above illustration.

The Red Valerian (Centranthus ruber) is like
Honesty in respect of there being bad and good
varieties. The finest is nearly crimson-flowered,
the common wild form being of a coloiur not at all
to be commended, and perhaps impossible to asso-
ciate harmoniously with other flowers. There are
both white and nearly white varieties. As a
border plant it possesses the invaluable property
of flowering from May till November. It is particu-
larly suitable for wall culture. Many years ago

May 31, Tqi3-1

THE GARDEN.

277

I introduced it on the garden walls by means of
seeds mixed with soil scattered liberally on top of
the wall. The plants from these and their progeny
give bright splashes of colour for a longer time than
any other plant. Usually known as the Red
Valerian, the light variety goes by the names of
Pretty Betsy and Delicate Bet, and the dark is
Bouncing Bet.

The Foxglove is, perhaps, next to the Hollyhock
and some of the Verbascums, the handsomest of
hardy flowering plants and the least difficult to
grow. In this case, too, it is essential to be careful
to grow oiJy first-rate forms. Personally, I like
the pure white better than any of the numerous
coloiu'ed kinds — that is, for border
furnishing. For others there is
usually plenty of room among
slirubs, and, really. Foxgloves
never look better than when rising
on the edge of a shrubbery, with
the dark foliage behind as a set-
ting. You need merely scatter the
seeds at this time of year in the
less-congested spots in order to
obtain colonies, which afterwards
will usually take care of them-
selves. Foxgloves, though bien-
nials, do not die away after flower-
ing, but if given good treatment
they produce spikes 7 feet or
8 feet in height, with secondary
ones of lesser altitudes, and if not
allowed to produce seeds the same
plant will live for several years.
.\t the same time, yoimg plants
give the best results. I get nice
effects with plants growing close
to the base of walls. Foxglove is
one of those names which have
given unending trouble to philo-
logists. On the Borders it used
to be called Foxter, and in a copy
of Fuchius' " Historia Plantarum "
a MS. note has " Fox tre " for
the Scots name. There are
numerous other pretty names.

Thistles, as a rule, are not
permitted much consideration by
garden folk, but there are
Thistles and Thistles, and a very
handsome vegetable indeed is
the Milk Thistle {Silybiun mari-
anum). In good soil it grows
6 feet in height and almost as
much through, but one must take
the precaution to sow the seed
where the plant is to flower, as
transplanting, if the plants grow
at all, dwarfs them extremely.
As well as possessing blotched
foliage of much beauty, the
flowers themselves are worth something. It
is perhaps more adapted to the wild garden
than to the kept parts of the grounds, but
in any case high cultivation is imperative for the
best results.

One of the prettiest of om' native flowers is
Succory, and though I do not advise the cultivation
of this weed, I would like to say a word in favoiu'
of Endive, the flowers of which are essentially
identical. They are of the same shade of colovor
as Mulgedium ruthenicum, but the plants are of a
superior habit and not at all coarse, as that is.
As many plants as are wanted for the mixed border
may be planted in autumn, or they may be wintered

in a frame, where they are not quite hardy, and
planted out in .\prii.

The Common Mullein, of which there is an
improved variety, is a decorative plant not to be
despised. It makes a desirable wall plant, but
succeeds best near the base of the wall, though
not necessarily growing in soil. Like some other '
biennials, it does best with the seeds sown where
the plants are wanted to flower. The Mulleins ,

GARDENS OF TO-DAY.

T

TREBAH, CORNWALL.

REBAH, the residence of C. H. Hext,
Esq., is situated some si.x miles from
the well-known and ancient town of
Falmouth, the mansion standing in a
prominent position at the top of a

deep natural valley and looking down
are almost as well known under the generic name 1 to that arm of the English Channel known as
Verbascum. The genus includes effective border Helford Passage. The view from the front of the
plants that produce stately flowering spikes from house, which is almost due south, is one of rare
June to September. The Hoary Mullein, otherwise beauty, the valley, which forms the garden, being
known as V. pulverulentum, is a striking plant, j liberally yet tastefully clothed with subtropical

vegetation, with a babbling stream
and several miniature waterfalls
running almost its entire length.
Occasionally the patch of sea that
is visible at the far end gives
anchorage or fairway to some
yacht or fishing-boat, and the
whole surroundings have a peace-
ful, pleasant atmosphere such as
we find in the Temperate House
at Kew on a quiet day. Leading
from the house to the valley or
garden proper is a broad expanse
of rolling greensward, on which
light and shadow, caused by the
surrounding trees, create a picture
of enchanting beauty that would
gladden the heart of the artist.
The rather steep, sloping banks
on either side of the valley are
intersected with pathways, but so
cleverly has the work been carried
out that it is seldom one gets a
glimpse of the paths, except in
the immediate vicinity. Indeed,
natural effect is aimed at through-
out and successfully secured,
harmony of colour and contour
being a striking feature.

Rare Trees and Shrubs. — In

t ummon with most other Comisli
I dens, those at Trebah are rich
choice trees and shrubs. Rho-
dodendrons and Bamboos finding
a happy home in the lower regions
of the valley. On the eastern slope
we were interested to find a large
tree of Araucaria Bidwillii and a
beautiful specimen of Podocarpus
Totara, the tnmk of the latter
measuring nearly five feet in cir-
cumference at the base. Near by
are two fine examples of Pinus
insignis, probably two of the
best in the country ; while
Embothrium coccineum, the
Japanese Umbrella Pine, Sciado-
pitys verticillata. Acacia dealbata, Pittosporum
eugenioides variegata and Drimys Winteri all do
well on this side of the garden. Indeed, there are
so many good shrubs and trees to be seen there
that it is impossible to do more than mention a
few. On the western slope vegetation is equally
interesting. Near the uppermost pathway we
were interested to find a magnificent bush of
Corokea macrocarpa about ten feet high, a fine
plant of Crinodendron Hookeri, a small but healthy
plant of the rare Olearia insignis, Desfontainea
spinosa, and a large tree, some twenty feet or more
high, of Banksia quercifolia, which, at the time
of our visit in mid-April, was bearing some of

A FINE SPECIMEN OF PITTOSPORUM EUGENIOIDES V.\RIEGATA IN
THE GARDENS AT TREBAH, CORNWALL.

the stems and leaves of which are covered with a
mealy white wool. The flowers are produced in
panicles of bright yellow. A remarkably effective
plant for massing in wooded places is Campanula
latifolia. It needs no cultivation, and the seeds
may be scattered over the ground selected for them.
Rue gives us tones of colour quite distinct from
those of any other plant. It is easy to grow
from seeds. Fennel is also worth growing for
its unique colouring, and selected forms of
the whitish shades of foliage of Wormwood
are equally distinct. Clary ought to be grown
for a like reason, the silvery bracts being quite
a feature. R. P. Brothersto.n.

278

THE GAEDEN.

[May 31, 1913.

its white, bottle-brush-Iike flowers. Near by was
a truly magnificeitt bush of Coronilla Emerus,
quite 20 feet in diameter, and just a mass of yellow,
crimson marked flowers. Scrambling down a
small grassy bank we foimd a fine plant of Daphne
iudica, the fragrant flowers of which we are only
able to enjoy with the protection of a greenhouse.
At the lower part of the valley the visitor suddenly
comes upon an orchard, the grass of which is
bejewelled with Primroses innumerable, to be
followed later by myriads of Bluebells. Near this
is a fine shrub of Viburnum lucidum, a great
improvement on V. Tinus or V. Laurustinus, and
keeping it company is a perfect specimen of
Cupressus macrocarpa. This tree,
which was planted when quite
small by the head-gardener at
Trebah, Mr. Thomas, is now quite
60 feet high, and the most beauti-
ful of its kind we have ever seen.
Nearer the mansion, and on the
eastern slope, is Hydrangea
scandens, which has climbed a
Turkey Oak to a height of 30
feet and is still going on !

The Bamboos. — As already
indicated, these form a prominent
feature in the lower regions of
the garden, and we saw some
really remarkable specimens. One
plant of Bambusa (Phyllostachys)
Quilioi had stems 27 feet in
height and over five inches in
circumference, the plant itself at
the base being about five feet
in diameter. Mr. Thomas last
year recorded the rate at which
the canes of this Bamboo grew,
and the particular cane that was
under observation attained a
height of II feet 10 inches in
fourteen days, or nearly a foot
a day ! Phyllostachys mitis, with
golden stems and paler golden
foliage, and Bambusa Falconeri,
25 feet or more in height, were
other plants that called for special
mention, though there were many
others of considerable interest.

Tree Ferns and Palms. — At the
bottom of the lawn leading from
the mansion, and slightly to
the left, a trio of the beautiful
New Zealand Tree Ferns, Dicksonia
antarctica, create a pleasing and
graceful picture, while in many parts
of the gardens Trachycarpus or
Chamaerops excelsa finds a happy
home. Near a trickling stream
we found a fine plant of Phoenix
canariensis, a Palm that is not
nearly so hardy as Trachycarpus, but which was
quite happy in its surroundings
Palms are being planted out, and in a few years'
time will be quite a feature of the gardens.
DracEena indivisa is also to be seen in many places,

Water Lilies, Cape Pondweed, Arum Lilies and
many other choice water plants find a happy
dwelling-place. On the banks of the rivulets
such plants as Primula japonica, choice forms of
Marsh Marigold, lusty plants of Gunnera manicata
and many other kinds are planted with a lavish
hand, yet always with a keen sense of refined
taste and with a view to natural effect. At the
time of our visit these water-side plants were just
making new growth, and later in the summer
would doubtless provide a floral picture of great
beauty. On the western slope, and near the upper-
most end, is a dainty little nook with a pool of
crystal-like water, the banks of which are lined

THE

NEW

ROSE GARDEN.

T

A VIEW IN THE GARDENS

AT TREBAH,
SEA.

LOOKING TOWARDS THE

DWARF AND CLIMBING
POLYANTHA ROSES.

HE great value of this class as per-
petual bloomers can be denied by
none, but formerly we had scarcely
any variety among the climbers
that flowered more than once in the
same season, or, if they did, the
crop was so scanty as to be insignificant. Now,
however, we seem fast approaching an ideal
class of climbers that very much surpass
the Hybrid Wichuraianas, inas-
much as they possess a good deal
of the same slender and graceful
growths, together with the con-
tinuous blooming of our
well-known dwarf Polyanthas so
generally used for beds and
edgings.

This is a want freely expressed
at the International Conference of
Roses held during the large and
world-wide represented meeting in
London last year. Herr Peter Lam-
bert has recently given us several
of these climbers, as well as quite
a number of improved dwarfs. On
glancing over a select list before
me, I note he is responsible
for no fewer than eighteen of our
best varieties among the dwarf or
bedding section, and is now
sending out several that are
excellent climbers, with the
inestimable advantage of being
continuous bloomers.

We have now a good climbing
sport of Mrs. W. H. Cut bush which
cannot fail to become a standing
favourite, as it seems to retain all
of the great floriferousness of that
splendid pink bedder. Climbing
Cecile Brunner and White Pet
are other good sports ; and if we
can secure more reliable and fixed
sports from other dwarf-growing
Polyanthas, our arbours, pergolas
and pillars will be greatly em-
bellished. The greatest drawback
at present is the dearth of bloom
after the first summer or late
spring glut. There is no lack of
autumnal bloomers as dwarfs ;
indeed, it is here that we have so
much advanced of late ; but we
do sadly want more flowers upon
our climbers and pillars late in
the season.
At the aforesaid Conference a very happy and
trite remark fell from Herr P. Lambert when he
said we wanted to use Roses suitable for the
purpose in the place of shrubs, which flower only
ten to fourteen days in the year. So we do,
and no one will be bold enough to dispute it.
Not a few of our most charming Roses give us one

with Ferns. Here we found Woodward/a radicans
Many young ] with fronds 10 feet long, so large, indeed, that it
was difficult to recognise it as that species.

The Eastern Garden. — This is situated at the
summit of the eastern slope of the valley, and is
some of the plants having reached large dimensions, devoted to herbaceous and bulbous plants. Two of
The New Zealand Flax, Phormium tenax, and its : the most interesting plants that we found there
variegated form also thrive well in the lower parts were Datura sulphurea and D. sanguinea, both of good crop only, and, if we can improve such by
of the garden, the huge clusters of sword-like which remain outdoors and flower all the 1 continuation, the advance will indeed be great,
foliage being perfectly in keeping with the 1 winter. Over a little pergola at the end of A few of the newer climbing Polyanthas that
surroundings. this eastern garden Clematis indivisa was flinging flower more or less continuously are Excellentz

The Water Garden. — This extends practically I its flower-bedecked shoots in profusion, happy Ktmze, creamy yellow and stilphiu' ; Frau Anna
the whole length of the gardens, sometimes as a | in a climate that those who must garden- in less- ' Pasquay, dark carmine rose ; Graf Zeppelin,
dancing rivulet, and anon as a placid pool wherein I favoured districts would give much to secure. , deep coral red ; Jkver D. Baronesse van Ittersum,

May 31, 1913-]

THE GAKDEN.

279

scarlet crimson on orange ground ; Kommer-
zienrat W. Rautenstrauch, salmon pink and yellow ;
Marie Trenz, rosy crimson ; with Climbing Mrs.
W. H. Cutbush. Some excellent dwarf growers
are Backfisch, salmon pink ; Boskoop Baby,
China rose ; Cyclope, crimson and maroon, striped
white ; Ellen Poulsen, brilliant pink ; Ema
Teschendorf, resembling the brilliancy of Griiss
an Teplitz, really good ; Unser Peti, peach and
rose ; with George Elger, coppery and golden
yellow. A. P.

THE ROSE

I

NOTES ON TULIPS.

AS A BUTTON-HOLE
FLOWER.

The Rose as a button-hole flower is becoming more
and more popular. The city man has taken up
the cult, and it is very refreshing to note in the
drab streets of our great cities how widespread
the desire to grow a few Roses has become.
A business man myself, who spends eleven hours
daily in the city of Birmingham, I
write for the guidance of men who,
like myself, are fond of a Rose cut
from one's own garden to wear for the
day as a reminder of that home we,
unfortunately, spend the greater part
of our lives away from. Some Roses
are not good stayers, even though the
water in the holder may be changed
once or twice during the day. Now as
to varieties with good staying powers.

Pharisaer. — I cannot speak too
highly of this variety. I have some-
times, when blooms were scarce, worn
a flower of Pharisaer two days, and
on the evening of the second day it
was still presentable. A long bud, an
ideal button-hole flower and a good
grower. Colour, salmon pink.

Mme. Leon Pain. — Not quite such
a stayer as Pharisaer, but, still, it will
last out a hot day in a creditable
manner. Colour, outside of petals deep
pink, ivory white on the inside.

Prince de Bulgarie. — A grand Rose
in every way. I have several bushes
of this variety struck from cuttings
inserted in the open ground in Novem-
ber. This Rose grows with equal
vigour on its own roots as on the
Briar stock. Colour variable. In early
summer the blooms are pink in the
centre, outer petals white ; and in the
autumn it often comes yellow, and is
frequently mistaken for Joseph Hill.

Ittme. Ravary. — This Rose I
strongly recommend city men to grow
of the most vigorous and one of the most sweetly
scented. The delightful perfume is one of the
greatest features it possesses. Its colour is a pleas-
ing yellow, but it possesses one failing — its grand
coloiu" does not last out the day.

IWrs. David McKee. — A reliable stayer. I
have many times worn a good bloom two days,
and it would still have done duty on the third if
necessary. It is of a greenish white, perfect in shape,
and with the scent of that grand Tea Rose Niphetos.

Mme. Constant Soupert. — A magnificent Tea
Rose ; yellow, tinted with pink. An excellent
garden Rose, and quite ideal as a button-hole flower.

Dorothy Page-Roberts. — Coppery pink, shaded
yellow. This Rose never falls to attract notice.
Superb in coloiu: and of great lasting powers, it holds
its own in whatever company it may happen to be.

Sutton Coldfield. J. W. H.

T was a great opportunity for the Tulip at
Chelsea, and I think I may say it took
advantage of it. In other words, most of
the firms that make the sale of this flower
one of their leading features staged groups
of considerable size, and it was not their
fault that they were not larger. To put my im-
pressions in generalisations, I would say, fijst,
that as the taste of the Tulip-lover is being " tuned
up " he becomes more and more particular what
he buys, and none but the best are now displayed
to tempt him. Secondly, that that '" rare burd,"
a novelty in staging, was to be seen in what I can
only call the Tulip mountain of Messrs. Jefferies
and Sons of Cirencester. I thought it a splendid
idea, for it gives the arranger an opportunity of
placing his flowers in the positions which suit them
best. Thus, .■\da (syn. .Albion) and Sweetheart

out any wrong name and, if they are able, of
substituting the proper one. Something of this
sort is wanted with us. Fourthly, and lastly,
more perhaps from conversations than from seeing
them staged in large quantities, I fancy striped or
broken Tulips are in the air. I was told that
America was biting, and that if only our Yankee
cousins had the sentimental side put before them
they would be " landed." Messrs. Bath of
Wisbech had, I think, tlie largest assortment in
the whole exhibition.

The novelties in the twelve groups were provided
for the most part by these broken varieties and
the Darwins. Doubtless some of the Cottage would
be unfamiliar to many, for Beauty of Bath,
Hammer Hales, Gondvink, Lucifer, Mrs. W. O.
Wolseley and .'Mbion are not widely known as yet.

There is, of coinse, a great difference of opinion
as to the relative merits of the chfferent varieties.
One thing the Tulip may:'justly claim is that it is

CAMPANULA STEVENSII NANA, A NEW VARIETY SHOWN AT CHELSEA LAST WEEK. (See page 275.)

It is one

(a rose Darwin with a wonderful pale blue
base) are nothing above eye-level, while such a
variety as Remembrance is best when seen only
from the outside, and such should be above.
Thirdly, I noticed a truly appalling amount of
variation in nomenclature ; just as sooner or later
in its life-history every one-coloured flower, or
breeder, as the florists express it, breaks and be-
comes parti-coloured, so it almost seems every
variety may become many-named, e.g., Gala
Beauty (syn. Colombus and French Crown) and
Goliath (syn. Kingscourt and Cardinal Manning).
This, to say the least, is very puzzling ; but what
is much more so is to find such labelling as putting
Mrs. Moon on Leghorn Bonnet, White Queen on
Parisian White, &c. I am told by Mr. Jan de
Graaff, who is the chairman of the committee of
judges of the Dutch Bulb Growers' Association,
that at Haarlem the power is given them of crossing

as well able to cater for everyone's taste as any
flower I know. In colour, habit, size and length
of possible flowering season it " takes some beating."
I would like to write on and on about its good points
in the abstract and give concrete examples of what
I mean, but my present purpose is not this, but
rather to describe what I actually saw in the way
of good things. I will begin with the Rembrandts
(broken Darwins) and other broken varieties.
The following little list includes some of the best :
Admiral Kingsbergen, a tall, fine large crimson and
white, vigorous and free ; Victor Hugo (Rembrandt)
a medium-sized bloom, well marked, scarlet and
white ; Bougainville (Rembrandt), a pleasing com-
bination of purple and white ; Quasimodo
(Rembrandt), a striking and distinct shade of deep
ruby red and white ; Kroeschal, a magnificent com-
bination of deep brick red or crimson and rich
yellow, large flower and a vigorous grower ;

280

THE GARDEN.

[May 31, 1913.

Crimson Beauty, a dark rich crimson and white ;
and Procles, rather a small bloom, two shades of
purple and white. If I were to add Semele
(Rembrandt), rosy and white ; Columbus, deep
yellow and scarlet ; Goldmine, orange brown and
yellow in a curious and effective mixture ; Union
Jack, two shades of purple, or lilac and purple ;
Summer Beauty, rose, mauve and white ; and the
exquisite Zomerschoon, real pink and white, I
think I could claim to have made out a list of some
of the best. Joseph Jacob.

{To be continued.)

MAINTAINING A LAW1M
GOOD CONDITION.

IN

A S an under - greenkeeper at a first-class
I\ eighteen-hole golf course, my experi-

/ % ences may prove interesting and
^"^^ instructive. We are all aware that
A Ma good lawn is sure to arouse the

admiration of all who see it, and to
keep it in first-class condition a certain amount
of expense and constant work are required. It is
probable that no feature is more neglected than the
lawn, yet, properly maintained, it can be termed
the carpet of the garden. To have a fine rich
herbage that glistens with its vivid green,
imparts firmness yet elasticity to the tread, and
grows in uniform evenness is to have perfection
in a lawn ; but to secure this it is essential that
the ground upon which the lawn is constructed
is well drained. It may already have sufficient
natural drainage, and in that case nothing need
be added ; but where there is danger of the water
not escaping within a reasonable time after a heavy
downpour, then no expense should be spared in
getting it drained properly ; otherwise it will prove
not only disappointing in appearance and un-
pleasant in its use, but the finer grasses will be
smothered by overpowering moss. Apart from
drainage, three of the chief operations that are
essential in the maintenance of a lawn are extermi-
nating worms, manuring and weeding.
Exterminating Worms. — In my opinion, worms

are the worst enemies of lawns, for it is at the
most critical period of the year that they begui
their destructive work. What is the use of trying
to attain a fine true and firm surface if these earth
pests are allowed to exist ? Lawns may be rolled
incessantly week in and week out in order to attain
a firm and clean surface, but serious damage will
be done to the turf. Not only do worms deposit
their casts upon the surface, but they are constantly
disturbing the roots ; therefore it is impossible
for the grasses to knit together and grow in uniform
evenness. As there are now quite a number of
worm exterminators on the market, it is an easy
matter to rid lawns of worms. The one that I
can confidently recommend is the preparation sup-
plied by Messrs. James Carter and Co. There is not
the slightest danger of damaging the turf by its
use. It should be used according to the makers'
directions. A theory is advanced that worms
may be regarded as beneficial to lawns by the casts
which they deposit upon the surface, if these are
brushed about. I quite agree with that point,
because the casts are the best of the soil ; but the
question is. What is happening to the roots ?
It is like robbing Peter to pay Paul, and in my
opinion it is far better to rid the lawn of worms
and keep the good soil for the roots.

Manuring. — While good lawns are looked upon
as ornaments, we must not forget that they are to

have a great deal of wear and tear upon them during
the course of a 'year. It is, therefore, necessary
that manuring should be done annually in order
to maintain the fertility required to ensure a good
growth of fine grasses. A compost consisting of
good loamy soil, well-decayed manure and wood-
ashes, applied in the early spring in a finely-sifted
state evenly over the lawn to the depth of a quarter
of an inch, and followed with a dressing of fertilising
materials in the autumn, will help to maintain a
lawn in good condition throughout the year.
Many lawns are spoilt by being manured with
unsuitable manures. Manures that are rich in
phosphates and potash should be avoided, as they
are apt to encourage Clovers and coarse weeds.

Weeding, — It will be impossible for lawns to
develop a hard, close and uniform turf if they are
infested with weeds. These not only rob the
finer grasses of their food, but also of air, light and
moisture. There are many preparations on the
market now for killing weeds upon lawns, including
sulphate of ammonia and various brands of
lawn sand ; but I am strongly in favour of hand-
weeding, and I doubt whether any surer or cleaner
method e.xists. It may seem a tedious operation,
but I believe it to be the most economical.

Mowing and Rollirg. — For the proper upkeep
ot a lawn, mowing must be frequent for at least
six months in the year. Never allow the grass
to grow long and ragged. In dry weather, and if
the lawn is free from weeds, it is a good plan to
forego the use of the grass-box, as the cuttings
serve to protect the grass roots from the scorch-
ing sun ; but should the lawn be weedy,
it is not advisable to forego the grass-box, as the
machine would scatter the weed seeds all over the
lawn. Rolling should not be overdone, as it is
ruinous to the turf. Some are under the impres-
sion that constantly rolling the lawn in the autumn
will stop worms from working ; but I think the
tighter the surface, the more encouragement there
will be for them to work. Our golf greens seldom
have an iron roller upon them, yet they are as
firm as a billiard table. In the absence of worms
an occasional light rolling alone is necessary for the
welfare ot the lawn.

Elm Grove, Bishop's Stort/ord. F. Auger.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON GRAPE

VINES.

Jk T no season of the year will cultivators
A% find it necessary to pay closer atten-
/ % tion to the Vines than the present.
^^■^% The growth is very rapid, both of
* * bunches and shoots, and unless thin-

ning out of berries and shoots — lateral
growths — and judicious training are done just when
they should be, the crop and the general condi-
tion of the Vines will not be satisfactory at the
end of the season when all are ripened.

Training tlie SllOOtS. — These have a tendency
to grow towards the light — the roof glass — from the
first. They must be tied down, of course, but
not all at one time, on account of their brittleness ;
tie them down gradually. When the berries
have set, the shoots may be tied level with the wires,
as they will be tough enough. Weakly and surplus
shoots must be removed. Pinch off the ends of
the shoots at two or three joints beyond the bunch
retained, according to the space available, as all
roof space should be nicely covered by the main
leaves. Pinch off all secondary laterals from the

shoots beyond the first leaf. Thus will remain the
shoot, the bunch of Grapes on it, the side or
secondary shoots bearing one leaf only. Keep
the Vines in this condition throughout the summer,
pinching off every lateral shoot while very small.

When the Vines are in Flower. — The cultivator
will soon be able to tell when they are in flower, as
the scent is very sweet. Until all the berries are set
it will be necessary to rather sharply tap the Vine
rods about noon every day, especially while the
sun is shining. Shy-setting varieties, such as the
Muscats, should have a camel's-hair brush or a
rabbit's tail lightly passed over them in addition
to the shaking of the bunches by tapping the rods.

Watering and Feeding. — Vines do not make
new roots in great quantities much before the month
of May, and so it is not necessary nor advisable
to saturate the borders too much with water
so early in the season. Vines rooting in outside
borders have had ample moisture ; too much in
badly-drained ones. Careful examination must be
made to avoid too dry a condition of the soil.
The first feeding with liquid manures should be
given directly the berries have set. Before applying
the manure give a copious watering with clear
water.

Ventilation. — Air must be admitted freely on
fine days. At ten o'clock every night open the
ventilators r inch wide. Before the sun shines
strongly on the glass the following morning increase
the ventilation by opening the ventilators 2 inches ;
and by nine o'clock give ample ventilation.
Decrease it from two o'clock in the afternoon,
closing the ventilators entirely by half-past three
o'clock, with plenty of atmospheric moisture,
but do not syringe the leaves.

Vines in Greenhouses. — Sometimes cultivators
fail to get satisfactory crops from Vines grown in
greenhouses ; others succeed. Much depends on
the management, the situation of the house and
the border in which the Vine roots are, and the
mimediate surroundings. I was once requested
by a cultivator to come and see his greenhouse
Vines, as he could grow no Grapes on them.
I went, and as soon as I saw the house I told him
he never would grow Grapes in it as at the time
constructed. It was situated close to a high
dwelling-house, in a partially-shaded spot, other
tall buildings in close proximity causing still more
shade, and, to complete a bad structure, shaded
ribbed glass was used in the roof. The greenhouse
Vine cannot be given the best treatment, but
Black Hamburghs and Foster's Seedling, as well
as Buckland Sweetwater, do very well as a rule.
Other occupants of the house must be given first
attention, perhaps. Well, the cultivator should
not in any way shade the glass over the Vines.
He must reduce ventilation on cold days and, above
all, not have the door of the house propped open.
So many do this. The ventilators should be ample
for their purpose. An open door, week after week,
will not conduce to the benefit of the plants in
pots, and it will certainly be the means of causing
a chill many times to the Vines and encourage
mildew on the leaves. Usually there will be
sufficient atmospheric moisture for the Vines
through the necessary watering of the pot plants.
Keep up the strength of the Vines by due attention
to the border. If possible, wherever it may be-
placed, contrive to give liquid manures in due
season. If outside, do not grow plants on it, nor
place material on it that vnll prevent the sun's
rays penetrating. If inside, and mainly under
staging, keep the surface clean and sweet and
open. G, G.

May 31, iqi3.]

THE GARDEN.

281

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

A SIMPLE BORDER FOR AUTUMN EFFECT.

DURING the late summer and early them in a cold frame for the winter. Plants
, autumn days, flowers of good quality treated in this way provide excellent material
I are none too plentiful in the her- for making cuttings the following spring. Where,
' baceous or mixed border. The scorch- however, the soil is light and warm, the plants
ing sun has then usually given the will frequently stand well outdoors all the winter,
plants a severe check, and large, their greatest enemy then being the slug. To
ugly gaps are too often present. A simple prevent damage from this source, some coal-ashes
autumn border, and one that any begiiiner in and soot should be heaped up over the old stools,
gardening can plant at the present
time, is composed of early-flower-
ing or border Chrysanthemums,
with a broad edging of some dwarf-
growing annual. The accompany-
ing illustration depicts a border
of this kind, the edging in this
instance being composed of Alyssum
Carpet White. The Chrysanthe-
mums used inmiediately behind
the Alyssum are Horace Martin,
which has good yellow flowers, and
Goacher's Crimson, with blossoms
of that colour and bronze. Coming
behind these are taller plants of
Rubis, an old and later-flowering
variety with port-wine coloured
blossoms. The green foliage of
these formed a splendid back-
ground to the dwarfer varieties
named, and as the latter remained
in flower for about six weeks, the
effect was most pleasing. These
border Chrysanthemums may be
purchased now in small pots, and
if put out at once in good soil will
quickly become established. When
growing freely it is advisable to
pinch out the point of each, as
this induces a bushy habit.
Watering during dry weather,
frequent hoeing of the soil, and
staking as and when required are
practically all the attention that
the plants require from now until
flowering-time. Eighteen inches
apart each way is a good distance
to plant the dwarf varieties, but
the taller ones should be given
rather more room. Of course,
many other varieties may be used
in this way ; but, for effect, only
two or three sorts should be em-
ployed. The Alyssum can be pur-
chased cheaply from any vendor of
bedding plants, and should be put
out 6 inches apart in a belt not less

than I foot wide ; a narrow edging is not nearly so , removing it when new growth is well advanced
effective or pleasing. If desired, dwarf Stocks, in the spring. But with choice varieties, and

L:jbi^*i ix^

in good time. Many less experienced in this matter
defer the application of the mulch until the ground
has become very dry, and the growth of the plants
is arrested in consequence. The recent rains
have well saturated the soil, and before the moisture
is dried up from the surface portion some top-
dressinp material should be put on. The moisture
is then conserved, also surface roots. Clayey
as well as light soils should be
dealt with. Leaf-soil and Cocoanut
fibre are both suitable for use in
_, the flower garden, and half-rotted
manure for fruit and vegetables.
Lawn grass may also be utilised
for the same purpose. G. G.

A SIMPLE AUTUMN BORDER OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS EDGED WITH
WHITE ALYSSUM. THESE CAN BE PLANTED NOW.

Asters or Violas could be utilised in place of the
Alyssum, according to individual taste. These
border Chrysanthemums, in addition to creating
a beautiful floral display in the garden, provide
a wealth of splendid flowers for cutting, in which
condition they last good for a long time.

After the plants have finished flowering, the
stems should be cut down nearly to the ground.
If the soil is naturally damp and of a clayey nature,
it is advisable to lift some of the best of the old
stools, place them in large pots or boxes, with

where there is any doubt about the plants surviving
the winter outdoors, it is always advisable to lift
a few and place them in cold frames as advised.
Even there the depredations of slugs must be
guarded against. H.

THE

EARLY

IMPORTANCE OF
MULCHING.

The mulching of growing crops in both flower,
frtiit and vegetable gardens is generally carried

out every year by experienced cultivators, and
some soil made firm about their roots, and stand they are careful to apply the surface-dressings

THE RIGHT DISTANCE
APART FOR BEDDING
OUT PLANTS.

The general effect of really fine
specimens of bedding-out subjects
is spoiled if they are overcrowded
in the borders or put out too far
apart. In the first case, the bushy
habit oi the plant soon changes and
becomes drawn and weakly ; in
the second, owing to the short
summer season, the plants do not
fill up the space properly, thus
leaving much surface soil visible
between them. The quality of the
soil must also be taken into con-
sideration. Gross-growing subjects
must not be planted in soil too
rich, else there will be too much
foliage and few flowers. Zonal
Pelargoniums should only have a
medium rich soil ; Nasturtiums, a
very poor soil. Liliums, Zea
japonica, the Castor Oil Plant
(Ricinus Gibsonii), the Tobacco
Plant, the Eucalyptus and similar
subjects intended to fill borders of
a subtropical character should have
a rich rooting medium. Plants
with rich and variegated leaves
must have a poor soil rather
than rich. Heliotropes, Begonias,
Fuchsias and Petunias require
good soil. All these details must
be taken into account when carry-
ing out the work of planting, so
that each specimen may make good
progress and flower well, and nicely
fill up the space in every bed.
A tew hints on particular varieties may be uselul
as a guide. Zonal Pelargoniums should be put
out I foot apart ; Heliotrope and Pettmias,
ro inches ; Fuchsias, 18 inches ; Pansies, 8 inches ;
Calceolarias, 10 inches ; plants used as edgings,
rather close at first ; tuberous Begonias, 15 inches
to 18 inches, according to the size of the tubers
and strength of the plants in June ; and fibrous-
rooted Begonias, 9 inches or 10 inches asimder.
Plants to form carpet-bed designs should be put
out so that they almost touch each other at the
time of planting. Dot plants must be disposed
according to the character of the beds, and they
must be seen clearly on every side. B.

282

THE GARDEN.

[May 31, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Bedding-Out. — From the notes in last week's
calendar it will naturally be inferred that bedding-
out should proceed at once, as we should now be
quite safe from frosts.

Manuring. — The beds, if manured in the autumn
for the bulbs, should not require manuring again.
They should, however, be deeply dug, working in a
good dressing of soot and a little bone-meal before
planting.

Watering. — It may be found after the bulbs
are lifted that the beds are very dry, and a good
soaking of water will be necessary to make
the soil in a fit condition for the reception of the
plants.

Planting. — Wherever possible, the hardiest plants,
such as Zonals and Marguerites, should be planted
first, leaving the more tender subjects, such as
Begonias, Coleus, Iresines and Celosias, till the
last. Where the soil is of a very light nature,
the beds should not be raised to any extent, or
there will be difficulty when watering has to be
done ; but it is sometimes an advantage to
raise the beds considerably when the soil is of a
good holding quality and inclined to lie wet.
I have noted on many occasions the desultory
manner in which many plants are put in the beds.
Good firm planting, with the ball of soil well under
the surface, is absolutely essential if the plants
are to get over the check quickly and do well during
the season, and any little extra trouble that is
taken at planting-out-time is amply repaid,
especially if we experience a dry season.

The Shrubberies.

Pruning. — Many flowering shrubs, such as
Berberis, Lilac, Syringa and Deutzia, that have
bloomed should now be cut back into shape a
little, unless, of course, they are planted in such
a position where they can be allowed unlimited
growth.

Clematises. — These are now growing very rapidly,
and must receive regular attention as to tying
if the growth is to be kept at all within bounds,
whether the plants are on the house, pergola, or
up trees or stakes.

Plants Under Glass.
Perpetual-Flowering Carnations. — The earliest

batch should now be ready for transferring into
their flowering pots, and for such early plants
8i-inch pots are the most suitable size. A rich
soil is not necessary, but it should be a good holding
loam, with sufficient lightening material in it to
keep it porous ; thus plenty of road grit, lime rubble,
broken crock and wood-ashes should be incorporated
with it, and this is better than leaf-soil for Car-
nations, not forgetting a 4i-inch potful of bone-meal
to each barrow-load of soil. Firm potting is also
necessary to secure a sturdy growth, and from
now onwards the plants may be stood out of
doors on a good ash bottom, providing lights can
be erected temporarily over them in the event
of very wet weather.

Chrysanthemums. — Continue to pot Japanese
varieties as the plants become fit. It is fatal to
the plants' well-being if they are allowed to become
badly pot-boimd.

Cinerarias. — The main batch of Cinerarias
may now be sown, selecting the varieties that are
likely to prove most useful, both as regards their
colour and habit of growth. Fine porous soil
is the best to raise these plants in, and a quite cold,
shady frame will produce much healthier plants
than will a warmer structure.

Primulas. — The early-sown batch will be ready
for prickmg ofi, and a further batch of obconica
and malacoides may be sown. These will make
plants quite large enough for flowering in 4i-inch
pots from January onwards.

The Kitchen Garden.
Frames from which Lettuces have been cut
may be planted with Marrows or Ridge Cucumbers,
or, if frame Cucumbers are required, these may
be planted ; and if the frame is given a lining of
fresh manure, it should provide sufficient heat
to give them a good start.

Carrots. — When the garden soil is of such a
nature that Carrots do not do well in it, frames as
previously mentioned may be utilised for the pur-
pose, and good crops of Intermediate Carrots can
be grown by sowing now. Also, in districts where
it is difficult to raise good crops of Carrots owing
to fly, an early June sowing will often succeed
where earlier sowings have failed.

Marrows and Gourds may now be planted in
the open ground, though if the garden is exposed
to rough winds it is advisable to plant them in as
sheltered a position as possible.

Fruits Under Glass.

Melons planted in frames early in the month
will have made considerable growth, and as soon
as the selected shoots have reached the sides of
the frames they should he pinched, thus inducing
lateral growths, from which a good set of fruit
may be expected if proper attention is given to
fertilisation.

Top-Dressing. — If sufficient soil was not put
in the frame when planting, this should be added
now in the form of a top-dressing, it being difficult
to add later when a large number of lateral shoots
have been made. Keep the collars of the plants fairly
high, so that when watering they may remain dry, and
a little dry lime sulphur or powdered charcoal
sprinkled around the collars often prevents canker.
A good supply of water during the growing season
is quite necessary, and sufficient syringings must
be given to keep down spider, but they need not
be so frequent or as heavy as given to plants culti-
vated in houses. The best crops of Melons I have
seen in frames have been where the lights were
removed entirely in the middle of the day during
the setting period.

Tomatoes also do well in frames from now
onwards, and come in well after the early crops
in the houses. Place the fruiting pots in the front
of the frames, training the shoots a few inches
from the glass from front to back, and by ventilating
freely at the side (not top or bottom) a more even
temperature is maintained and the fruit sets as
freely as in the houses.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)
Woburn Place Gardens, Addleslone, Surrey.

FOR

NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Sweet Peas. — The plants will now be growmg
freely, an-d continued attention must be given
to the tying in of any shoots protruding beyond
the sides' of the stakes.

Planting Dahlias. — This work must now be
proceeded with. It being imderstood that the
ground was duly prepared, the stakes should first
be driven in position, after which a small pit should
be dug out at the side of the stake to receive the
plant. It will be a great advantage if a special
compost, light and rich, be made up and a good
spadeful given to each plant. As the planting
proceeds, each plant should be tied rather loosely
to the stake.

Bedding-Out. — This work will still be proceeding,
and I would remind readers that a few spare plants
of all fragile plants should be planted in the reserve
garden to fall back upon for filling up blanks in
case of failure or accident.

Crown Imperials. — These showy spring flowers
grow up with Mushroom-like rapidity and
disappear as quickly. They sometimes develop
seed-pods, and unless use is to be made of them,
they should be picked off. It is the formation
of seeds, not of flowers, that weakens a plant.

The Rock Garden.
Tidying Up. — Many of the plants have now
finished flowering and are beginning to look im-
sightly. These should be cut over and all the
weeds promptly removed.

Mesembryanthemum pugioniforme. — This is

a rather striking plant, with fleshy triquetros
foliage and pale yellow flowers. I obtained a batch
of cuttings of it from a South Devon garden, where
it is said to be hardy. I root cuttings in the open
in a seed-pan in September and winter them in a cold
frame, planting them about the rockwork in May.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Watering. — We often have a spell of drought
in Jtuie, when newly-planted trees and shrubs are
apt to sufier unless attended to with water at
the root.

Trimming Odd Corners. — It is no uncommon
thing to see the lawns trimly kept, while in odd
comers, where the mower cannot be applied, such
as round trees, against buildings and in sharp
angles, the grass is allowed to grow at will for
weeks. This looks bad. Tidy with the scythe
as far as possible, and a sharp knife deftly handed
will do the rest.

Plants Under Glass.
Final Potting of Chrysanthemums. — This work

cannot be delayed much longer. See that the pots
and crocks are clean and dry, also have a good
quantity of compost ready and put under cover,
so that the work may proceed irrespective of
weather conditions. Experienced growers have
their individual theories as to soils, but we all
know that success largely depends upon judicious
feeding in the autumn. The following will, how-
ever, be foimd a good compost for general use :
Turfy loam three parts, old Mushroom manure
one part, half-decayed Beech or Oak leaves one
part, sharp sand one part, bone-meal half a part,
wood-ashes half a part, and about a six-inch potful
of soot to four bushels of soil. If the plants are
suffering for want of food, water in a pinch of
Clay's or similar fertiliser prior to knocking the
plant out of its present pot. Leave plenty of room
for top-dressing.

Humea elegans. — Seeds of this graceful plant
should niiw \m: sown in a cool frame.

Liquid Manure. — Many plants will now require
help with liquid manure. The article can be had
in many forms. Horse-manure with some soot
put into a guano-bag and immersed in a tank of
water will yield a safe stimulant. Good results will
also be obtained by mixing guano or Clay's Fertilizer
at the rate of 20Z. per gallon. Dissolve with a
little hot water and then add cold water. Twice a
week is quite often enough to applv liquid manure.

Fruits Under Glass.

Early Peaches. — Where the fruits are ripening,
a net should be run along under the trees to
catch the fruits which may fall. The Peach is
easily damaged, and should be handled very care-
fully. All the fingers and thumb should be applied
when picking the fruits.

Late Cucumbers. — Now that the frames are
being cleared of bedding plants, a few lights may
be profitably devoted to late Cucumbers. If
seed has not been sown for this purpose, cuttings
can be rooted in a few days.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Cleaning Strawberries. — The hoe should be

run through all the Strawberry quarters, as fruits
will be swelling now, and the less they are inter-
fered with subsequently until the crop is picked
the better.
Taking Strawberry Runners. — Where stock is

wanted tor early forcing, runners cannot be taken
a day too soon. Fill rather more than the requisite
number of 3-inch pots with light, rich soil, and
sink a pot to its rim immediately under the young
plant, securing the runner to the soil in the pot by
means of a peg. Give all a watering when the
layering is completed.

The Vegetable Garden.

Late Peas. — The last sowing for the season
should be got in within the next week or ten days,
and a second-early variety, such as Senator or
The Pilot, is now preferable to a late variety.

Planting the Brassica Family. — Spring-sown
Cabbages, Savoys, greens and Brussels Sprouts
will now be ready for planting out, and showery
weather is to be preferred for the work. From
2r inches to 24 inches by 18 inches is the correct
distance apart for the foregoing. If the weather
is really dry, make a puddle of earth and water
and dip the roots in it prior to planting.

Asparagus-Beds will be benefited by a slight
dressing with salt, preferably during showery
weather.

Thinning Crops. — Beet, Turnips and Salsify
should be thinned if not already done.

Charles Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

May 31, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

283

THE GREENHOUSE.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON
AURICULAS.

Plants After Flowering. — One of the most
common faults with amateurs and cottagers who
cultivate these refined and altogether charming
plants, and other kinds, too, as far as that goes,
is to neglect them when they have finished fiowering.
Directly the blooms have gone the plants are for-
gotten until the end of the summer, or perhaps
for a still longer period, and the natural result is
that many of them die instead of hving to produce
more flowers in succeeding years. This is utterly
vvrong with any plants whose duration is more
than one season, and particularly so with
Auriculas, since some of the most important
details oi management come along after the period
of floral beauty. It is then that one should consider
the repotting and the removal of such enemies
as the white aphis, which gathers roimd the crown
of the plants, as well as other routine operations.
Those who would achieve continued success with
Auriculas must be prepared to have them in mind
from one year's end to another, not because they
will always be demanding attention or because
they are " miffy," but because any little thing
that is required will be done at the correct time.

Choice of Pots. — The task of the moment is
repotting, as June is the most generally satisfac-
tory month for the operation. With many plants
the precise shape of the pot does not matter much,
provided that it affords proper space for the roots ;
but with .Auriculas one should always give the
preference to pots that are exceptionally deep in
comparison with their diameter at the top. The
plant forms a long tap root, and the ordinary pot
does not give the depth which is demanded, or
which is, if not really essential, beyond question
most desirable. It is possible to procure these
long, deep pots, though it is not always easy to
find a supply ; but the man who is determined to
secceed will not begrudge the time necessary to
provide for wants.

Repotting. — Having secured the most suitable
and convenient pots, they must be washed, and,
if new, allowed to drain before use. Then turn
to the question of soil, and do not follow the old
writers, who recommended the most extraordinary
and weird mixtures. Soimd loam of the finest
quality should form the base and the bulk of the
compost, and to it may be added at discretion
thoroughly-rotted manure and sand or other open-
mg m.^terial. Whatever the components may be,
they ought to be put together several days before
actual use. Opinions differ as to whether all the
soil should be shaken off or not ; but it has the
material advantage of showing immediately if
anything is amiss with the tap root, in which event
it is promptly cut away, and also permits one
to apply methylated spirit or other effective wash
to destroy the white aphis.

When inspection reveals the fact that the fleshy
tap root is in bad condition, necessitating cutting
back to the healthy part, it will be wise to put the
plant into a pot of the same size as that previously
occupied, or, and sometimes wiser, into one a
size smaller. This point will have to be decided
upon the merits of each plant, and the governing
factor will be the number of clean, sound roots.
It is in no case desirable that the soil shall be rammed
into the pots until it is as hard as a road ; but it
must not be, on the other hand, so loose that water
appHed will rush straight through to the drainage.

Find the happy medium between those extremes
and the condition will be correct.

Considerable judgment will be required after
potting in regard to the quantity of water. It
is never wise to give much when the roots are not
working freely, but it is imperative that the leaves
shall not be permitted to flag seriously. To
obviate the necessity for frequent applications,
shade the frame from the fierce sun for a fortnight
and do not admit quite as much tresh air. When
there are unmistakable indications that the
plants have fully recovered from the change of
soil conditions, the normal amount of fresh air
must be again provided to encourage satisfactory
advance. Towards the end of the month frames
which are facing the south should be turned to give
them a northern, and therefore cooler, aspect.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
make TBE G.\RDEN helpful to alt readers who desire assUt-
ance, no matter ichal the branch of gardening may be, and
mth that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columne. Alt communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Gaeden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. . The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should he clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps thai are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business sliould be sent to the PtJBLISHER.

FLOWER GARDEN.

LILIUM CANDIDUH DISEASED (E. 0. JF.).— The

white Lily is attacked by the Liiy disease. It appears
to liave attacked the plant where it has been weakened,
perhaps by frost or cold wind, or even by insect injury.
No cure is known for this disease : but it would be worth
while tryins the eflfect of removing the top soil and
replacing with fresh soil which has been well sterilised.

ASTERS AND WIREWORM (J. P.).— The grub eatin?
your Asters is the wireworm. Picking out wirewotms is the
only remedy under the circumstances, but you may trap
them by burying a half of a hollowed-out Potato in the
soil near them. Sprinkling a little Apterite or Vaporite
about the plants would also help to drive them away.
Wireworms are one of the worst pests the gardener has to
contend against.

ORCHIS iCoUapit). — All the Orchids mentioned, except
Bletia byacinthina and Calypso borealis, would be suitable
for growing in the grass unless it gets too thick and coarse.
The roots must be planted quite 3 inches below the surface.
Habenaria bifolia, Ophrys apifera, O. lutea, O. speculum
and Orchis provincialis are lime-loving plants, and with
Habenaria ciliaris are the best of those mentioned. In
suitable situations they flower freely. Bletia hyacinthina
and Calypso borealis require more careful treatment,
especially the latter. They must be planted in a shady
position in rich, leafy soil.

DIVIDING PRIMULA DENTICULATA (G. C.).— This
Primula and all its forms is best raised periodically from
seeds sown as soon as ripened. The divided example
is rarely endowed with the vigour of the seedling, and
seldom produces so good a growth. If divided, it should
be done as soon as flowering is over. From a well-flowered
plant, however, a couple of hundred seedlings might be
raised, and with not much trouble. If the grass is not
sufficiently dense to smother the plants, they may do well
for a time, even in the gravelly soil, by reason of the
moisture present. To avoid excess of flooding, give them
somewhat raised positions where the root-flbres would
reach moisture when necessary.

it is necessary for the plants to be as near to the source
of light as possible. The placing of a second piece of
glass over the plant would, therefore, not allow the plant
to obtain the necessary light nor act in the same way
as placing it near the glass.

CBRYSANTHEHDHS (F. F.). — The varieties you name
would come under the heading of decorative varieties or
early-flowering Japanese, though probably Nina Blick
might, if necessary, be shown as a reflexed ; but we rarely
see it classified as such nowadays. For blooming in
the greenhouse later in the season you might grow the
following ; 'Soleil d'Octobre. 'Bronze Soleil d'Octobre,
La Iriomphante (pink), 'Matthew Hodgson (chestnut),
Heston Bronze, Dr. Enguhard (pink), 'Freda Bedford
(bronze). Moneymaker (white), Nagoya (yellow), Mrs
Andrew Walker (coppery red), December Gold and
' Baldock'3 Crimson. All the above are fairly close flowers,
and about the shape of those you name. If you only
wish to grow half-a-dozen varieties, you might choose
those marked with an asterisk.

CULTURE OF CLIANTHUS (R. F. C.).— The culture
of Chant hus puniceus and its variety albus differs accord-
ing to the part of the country in which the plants are
grown. In the milder parts of the country they thrive
excellently against walls in the open, and good examples
are met with in many parts of Cornwall and Devonshure.
It is probable that you might be able to cultivate it against
a wall with a south or west aspect, providing a small
class shelter could be attached to the top of the wall
Both plants are perennials, or, rather, sub-slurubs, and are
raised from seeds. Thev thrive in well-drained loamy
soil. In colder parts of the country they must be grown
in a sunny greenhouse, either in pots or planted out in a
well-drained border. .-Vs a rule, the . best results are
obtained by training tbem to pillars or rafters. Clianthus
Dampieri is somewhat more tender than the last-named.
It is usually treated as a biennial, sometimes as an annual.
On its own roots it is a very difficult plant to grow; there-
fore it is usually grafted, while very young, upon stocks
of the Bladder Senna (Colutea arborescens). Seeds of
the Colutea are sown about a fortnight in advance of those
of the Clianthus, and when the Clianthus seedlings are a
tew days old they are cut off 1 inch or so below the coty-
ledons. The stem is cut into the shape of a wedge by means
of a sharp razor, and the stem of a young Colutea is slit
down between the seed leaves, the wedge-shaped graft
being inserted and secured in position with matting.
The plants are then stood in a close, warm case for about
a fortnight, after which time the union of stock and scion
will be found to have taken place. The plants are then
grown in an airy greenhouse and repotted when necessary,
a compost being made up of two parts of fibrous loam to
one part of peat or leaf-mould with a moderate amount
of sand. When in flowering pots or baskets, manure-
water may be given once a week when the soil is well
filled with roots. It should have been mentioned that the
Colutea seeds must be sown singly in small pots to avoid
root disturbance.

THE GREENHOUSE.

WHY PLACE PLANTS NEAR THE GLASS ? (L. IF.).—
Curiously enough, the action of light is to retard the
growth of plants, and the nearer they are to its presence
the less are they likely to grow lanky. At the same time,
a good supply of light enables them to obtain the power
necessary to have in order to enable them to make their
food, and for this cause, again, the nearer the source of
light the better for them. No matter how good the glass
may be, a certain amount of light is cut off by it, and

ROSE GARDEN.

ROSE GROWTHS INJURED (C. T.).— The damage
has been caused by caterpillars. You should have the
trees well searched, and, if you have cateipillars, spray with
arsenate of lead paste. The slugs can be kept down
by using Slugene. Both preparations are obtainable
from Messrs. \V. Voss and Co.. Millwall, E. We think
you would obtain all you require for your rock garden
from any of the firms who advertise in oiu- pages, and as
they keep a large number of subjects in pots, they can be
planted practically at any time. __

PREPARING ROSE-BEDS (F. L. i.).— September
would be about the best time to commence the prepara-
tion of the soil, and it would then be in a nice condition
to plant towards the end of October, the best time of all
for planting Roses. We do not advise chemical manures
when preparing new beds, excepting basic slag and bone-
meal. If you can procure a supply of really good farmyard
manure in early September, you should do so ; not strawy
stuff, but good manure from a farm that has been well
trodden over by horses, cattle and pigs. In preparing the
soil it should be trenched, and any good gardener would
show you how to have this done. The soil is moved to
a depth of 2 feet to 3 feet ; but the bottom, or subsoil, ^
kept in its place and not brought to the surface. With
the lower soil we advocate mixing basic slag at the rate
of about six ounces per square yard, together with a good
layer of the farmyard manure. When the Eoses are
planted, give each plant a handful of bone-meal, mixing
it with the soil at the time of planting.

FRUIT GARDEN.

BIRDS PICKING FRUIT -BUDS (IT. S. R.).— Un-
doubtedly the moss on the trees attracted the'Tjirdain the
first instance, this being, partially at least, the innocent
cause of the fruit-buds being attacked. One way of
preventing this in future will be by spraying your trees
in winter with the caustic alkali wash. This will destroy
every vestige of the moss, and clear the trees also of any
other vegetable or parasitic insects by which they may
be infested. This is a cheap wash, and may be had of
any seed merchant advertising with us, with full particu-
lars as to how to apply it. If you have any difficulty m
procuring it, let us know, and we will give you the recipe.
Where birds are numerous and fruit trees of the kind you
mention not over- plentiful, buds are frequently destroyed.
The only way of preventing the mischief is by netting.the
trees in good time.

284

THE GAliDEN.

[May 31. 191^

MISCELLANEOUS.

DISEASE IN TOMATOES (F. M. «.).— From your
<iescription of the symptoms, we liave no doubt whatever
that the Tomatoes are attacked by a fungus, but in the
absence of specimens it is impossible to say which one.
We have no doubt the best method of avoiding the trouble
is to steam sterilise the soil in which one intends to sow
the seeds,

INSECT PESTS {Edinburgh).—!. We do not recognise
the larvse sent with certainty. They are those of a moth
belonging to the group called Noctuae. It would have
been a help to have mentioned the food plant. 2. The
Rhododendron leaves have been bitten either by a weevil
■or by a caterpillar. The work of the two pests is very
much alike. We would recommend you to spray the
affected plants with lead arsenate, to be obtained in the
paste form, mixed with water according to the directions
supplied on the packet, and sprayed on with a very fine
sprayer. 3. The slug trap advertised in our columns
under the name of " V.T.H." will be found an excellent
one. 4. The shade of Yews is too dense for most plants.
You may find a few Ferns of the less exacting sorts will grow
for a time in such a position, but they will require
renewal now and again.
NAMES OF PLANTS. — J. R. Dalton. — Clianthus

Dampieri alba. J. Brown. — Rose Richmond.

£. M. H., Uffington. — 1 and 2, Helianthemum vulgare
variety; 3, Saxifraga grauulata ; 4. S. hypnoides variety ;
5, S. trifurcata ; 6, Potentilla species (very scrappy) ; 7,

Alyssum saxatile. ■/. Thomas. — The Bird Cherry

<Prunus Padus). -I.B., N. Wales. — J, Chrysosplenium

■oppositifolium (Golden Saxifraga) ; 2, Armeria raaritima

(Thrift). E. IF., 5Ae^drf. — Weevil Plant (Curculigo

ecurvata).- T. H. R. — 1 and 6. Helianthemum vulgare

variety ; 2, Tiarelia cordifolia ; 3, Geum hybridum ; 4,
Sedum altissimum ; 5, Saxifraga Geum crenatum ; 7 and 8,
<'annot name without flowers; 9, Thymus vulgaris

variegatus ; 10, Iberis correaefolium. W, L. — 1, Acacia

juniperina ; 2, Sophora tetraptera microphylla.

SOCIETIES.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S
SPRING SHOW AT CJHELSEA.

SUNDRIES.
[Continued from last week.)

Messrs. Corry and Co., Limited, Bedford
•Chambers, Covent Garden, W.C, had specimens
of their tobacco preparations and insecticides,
including syringes and other articles for which this
firm is famous.

Paper flower-pots were shown by Messrs. Blake
and Mackenzie, Liverpool.

A useful and interesting exhibit, including wire
trainers of many forms, was staged by Mr. John
Pinches, 3, Crown Buildings, Camberwell, S.E.,
bloom protectors and Acme labels being well to
the fore.

Lawn boots of good workmanship and design
were shown by Messrs. H. Pattisson and Co., Grey-
hound Lane, Streatham.

Gishurst compound, fibre and insecticides were
staged by Price's Patent Candle Company.

Weed-killers, lawn sand and insecticides were
shown by the Acme Chemical Company, Tonbridge,
and also examples of the Higginson patent spraying
appliances.

Messrs. Robinson Brothers, Limited, Ryder's
Green, West Bromwich, had a most interesting
stand displaying Carmona fertiliser, with illus-
trated methods of application. Cliffs fluid and
pine spray, germicides, insecticides and lawn sand.

Lawn-mowers suitable for all purposes were ex-
hibited by Messrs. Alexander Shanks and Son,
Bush Lane, E.C.

Messrs. Walter Voss and Co., Millwall, E.C, had
a large and varied stand of the famous Carlton
fertilisers, and examples of seedlings growing in
sterilised and imsterilised soil.

The Ahol syringe with its recent improvements
now makes a perfect sprayer, and with Abol
insecticide proved an attractive stand as shown by
Messrs. E. A. White, Limited, Paddock Wood, Kent.

Messrs. James Carter and Co., Raynes Park,
had a well-arranged stand, showing some large
panoramic views of their offices and seed-testing

station. Some excellent diagrams showing various
seeds and their impurities were most instructive,
and apparatus for simple analysis of soils for
amateurs well deserved attention. A further
interesting exhibit consisted of specimens of growing
turf taken from twenty-two golf courses, which
have been grown from their Tested Seeds, together
with samples of soil from each course, one of the
most interesting being turf from Merton course,
grown from seed sown in November, 191 2, A
further interesting display was that of sections of
the various seeds of Rape, Turnip, Black Mustard,
Charlock and Cabbage, which in the seed are
exactly similar. These diagrams were of great
interest, showing the differential inter-cellular
tissue of the sections, which were sufficiently distinct
to enable one to distinguish one variety from
another.

An interesting series of garden plans and designs
were shown by Messrs. R. Wallace and Co.,
Colchester.

Messrs. Jeyes, Limited, Cannon Street, E.C,
showed some good examples of insecticides and
sprayers.

Messrs. Joseph Bentley, Limited, Barrow-on-
Humber, had a well-arranged stand of weed-
killers and other horticultural chemical specialities.

Mr. G. Dunford, 11, Ley Road, Ilford, showed
his well-lotou-n lawn brooms.

The French Cloche Company, Ca.xton House,
Westminst'er, staged specimens of cloches, mats
and frames, and all other requisites for French
gardening.

Messrs. Thomas Green and Sons, New Surrey
Works, S.E., had a well-displayed assortment of
lawn mowers in all sizes, and garden rollers. A
motor lawn mower of improved form was also
exhibited.

Mr. Vernon T. Hill, Langford, near Bristol, staged
his patent slug trap.

The Key fertilisers were shown by Mr. A. Key,
The Crescent, Norwich.

Messrs. Ransomes, Sims and Jefferics, Ipswich,
had an attractive exhibit of motor, horse and hand
power lawn-mowers, suitable for all purposes.

Robert Sydenham. Limited, Birmingham, showed
rustic table decorations in many pretty and
attractive designs.

Steel garden stakes and hoopsfor fastening were
shown by Messrs. F. Walters and Co., Bilton. Rugby.

A large and varied exhibit of garden requisites
was staged by Messrs. Barr and Sons, King Street,
Covent Garden, including garden labels, patent
bulb planter and dibber, and artificial manures
of every description.

MEDALS AND CUPS AWARDED.

GOLD MEDALS.— Sir George Holtord, K,C.V.O .
CLE., Westonbirt, Tetbury, Messrs. Charlesworth and
C'o., Hayward's Heath, and Messrs. Sander and Sons,
St. Albans, for Orchids; Messrs. R. Wallace and Co.,
Colchester, for rock and formal garden ; Mr. J. Wood .
Boston Spa, for rock garden ; Messrs. James Carter
and Co., Kaynes Park, for flowering plants and vege-
tables : Messrs. Veltch and Sons, Chelsea, for trained
fruit trees and stove, greenhouse and flowering plants ;
Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, for flowering plants :
Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, for stove plants and
shrubs ; Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon, Bath, for
Begonias, &c. ; Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., Colchester,
for Roses ; Messrs. R. and G. Cuthbert, Highgate, for
Azaleas ; Messrs. Bobbie and Co., Edinburgh, for Sweet
Peas, &c. ; Mr. C. Engelmann, SatTrou Walden, for Car-
nations ; aiessrs. W. Paul and Sons, Waltham Cross,
for Roses and flowering plants ; Messrs. J. Piper and
Sons, Bayswater, for stmibs, &c. ; Messrs. J. Waterer
and Sons, Bagshot, for flowering plants: Messrs. H. B.
May and Sons, Edmonton, for Ferns ; Messrs. Alex. Dickson,
Newtownards, for Tulips ; the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, Elstree,
for vegetables ; Messrs. W. Fromow and Sons, Chiswick,
for Japanese .Maples ; Messrs. T. Rivers and Son, Saw-
bridgoworth, for fruit trees and Citrus fruits in pots ;
and Messrs, W, Cut bush and Son, Highgate Nurseries, for
Carnations

FARRER CUP.— Messis. Bees, Limited, Liverpool for
alpines.

DAVIDSON CUP.— Messrs. Charlesworth, HaywardV
Heath, for the best Cattleya, not a hybrid, in the show
C. percivahana Mary Regina.

SILVER-GILT CUPS.— Messrs. J. Backhouse and Son
Limited, York; Messrs. Barr and Sons. Covent Garden
and Messrs, J, Piper and Son, Bavswater, W., for rrn'k
and water gardens; Messrs. J. Veit'ch and Sons Clic-Ui-a
for Tulips and general e.'chibits ; Messrs. Jaekman and
Sons, Woking, for Clematises, shrubs and plants ; Mi.,-.sr~
G. Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, for Apples ; .ind M.-s.sr>
Wallace and Co., Colchester, for a herbaceous gioup.

LARGE SILVER CUPS. — .Mr. Maurice Pricliard
Christchurcli, for alpine garden and herbaceous plant-'
Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, for vegetables, &i- '■
Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, for foliage and flowering
plants ; Messrs. G. Paul and Sons, Cheshunt lor Ho-r.
and Azaleas; Mr. Charles Turner, Slough, for Rose-
Carnations. Lilacs, Ac. ; Messrs. E. Webb and Sons Stour-
bridge, for Calceolarias and flowering plants ■ Messrs
Young and Co., Cheltenham, for Carnations ; '.Mr. Amo-
Perry, Enfleld, for herbaceous plants and alpine^ ■ Mr A
Dutton, Ivor, for Carnations ; and Messrs. John p'eed and"
Son, West Norwood, for Caladiums, &c.

SILVER CUPS.— Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart., Gatton
Park, lleigate, Messrs. Armstrong and Brown, Tunbr^dne
Wells. Messrs. J. Cypher and Sons, Cheltenham, Messps
Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, and Messrs J and
A. McBean, Cooksbridge, for Orchids; Messrs. Puiham
and Son, Newman Street, and Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited
Feltham, for rock gardens ; Messrs. J. Cheat and Sons'
Crawley, for formal garden and alpines and ilirubs '
Messrs. James Carter and Co., High Holborn, for formal
garden ; the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, Elstree, and Mis" Trovte-
Bullock, Yeovil, for Pelargoniums ; Leopold de Rothscliild
Esq., C.V.O., Leighton Buzzard, for Carnations and
Statice; Messrs.W. Cutbush, Highgate, for flowering plants-
Messrs. B. R. Cant, Colchester, for Roses ; Messrs. J. Hill
and Son, Lower Edmonton, for Ferns ; Messrs. Hobbies
Limited, Dereham, for Roses ; Mr. J. Macdonald, Harpen-
den, for Grasses ; and Messrs. G. Mount and Sons
Canterbury, for Roses,

STANDARD CUPS. — E. H. Davidson, Esq., Borlases.
Twyford, and Messrs. Mansell and Hatcher, Rawdon,'
for Orchids ; The Craven Nursery Company, Claphani
Yorks. for rock garden ; Messrs. Cunningham, Frascr
and Co., Edinburgh, for alpine plants ; Mr. Clarence
Elliott, Six Hills Nursery, Stevenage, for rock garden •
Mr. G. Reutlie, Keston, for rock garden and herbaceoas
plants ; Messrs. Whitelegg and Page, Chislehurst, for
rock garden and alpines ; Messrs. G, Beckwith and Sons,
Hoddesdon, for Roses ; Mrs. B. Barrett, Castlethorpe^
for Sctiizanthus ; Jlr. A. J. Bruce, Chorlton-cum-Hardyj
for Sarraccnias ; Mr Reginald Prichard, Wimborne, for
alpine,,; Mr. George Prince. Longworth, for Roses; Dr. John
Macwatt, Duns, for Primulas; and Mrs, Litkie, Maidenhead,
for herbaceous plants.

SILVER-GILT HOGG MEDAL. — Messrs La.tton
Brothers, Bedford, for Strawberries and fruit trees.

SILVER-GILT KNIGHTIAN MEDAL.— The King's
.\cre Nurseries, Hereford, for fruit trees.

SILVER-GILT FLORA MEDALS.— Messrs. Hassall
and Co., Southgate, for Orchids ; Messrs. Barr and Son.
Covent Garden, for Tulips, Ac. ; Messrs. Stuart Low.
Bush Hill Park, for Carnations, &c. ; Messrs. Phillips
and Taylor, Bracknell, for herbaceous plants ; Messrs.
Hogg and Robertson, Dublin, for Tulips, &c. ; Mr. Bell,
Guernsey, for Carnations ; Mr. Box, Lindfleld, for hardy
plants ; Mr. Burnett, Guernsey, for Carnations ; Messr.s.
Clark, Dover, for herbaceous plants ; Messrs. Jefferies,
Cirencester, for Tulips ; and Messrs. Ware, Feltham,
for iierbaceous plants.

SILVER-GILT BANKSIAN MEDALS.— The Guildford
Hardy Plant Nursery, Guildford, for rock garden ; Messrs.
.^rtindale, Sheffield, for hardy and water plants ; Messrs.
Allwood, Hayward's Heath, for Carnations ; Baker's,
Woherhampton, for hardy alpine and bog plants ; Messrs.
Fletcher, Chertsey, for American plants ; Messrs. Gibson.
Bedale, and Messrs. Kelway, Langport, for herbaceous
plants; Messrs. Ker, Liverpool, for Amaryllis; Messrs.
Needham. Kelmscott, for Tulips ; Messrs. Notcutt
Woodbridge, for flowering and foliage plants ; and Messrs]
Watkins and Simpson, Covent Garden, for annuals in pots]
SILVER KNIGHTIAN MEDAL.— Thatcham Fruit Farm,
Newbury, for vegetables.

SILVER FLORA MEDALS.— .Mr. S. W. Flory, Twicken-
ham, for Orchids ; The Burton Hardy Plant Nurseries,
Christchurch, for rock garden ; Messrs. Bath, Wisbech,
for Tulips and Carnations ; Mr. C. Blick, Hayes for
Carnations; Mr. C. Bourne, Bletchley, for Tulips; A. P
Brandt, Esq., Bletchingley, for fancy Pelargoniums ;
Messrs. Cannell, Swanley, for Canuas, Pelargoniums,
&c. ; Messrs. Carter Page, London Wall, for herbaceous
plants and annuals ; Mr. Douglas, Great Bookham, for
Carnations ; Mrs. Edwards, Llangollen, for alpines ;
Messrs. Godfrey, Exmouth, for Pelargoniums, Ac. ;
Messrs. Gunn, Olton,for herbaceous plants ; Mr. Henisley,
Crawley, for alpines; The Misses .Hopkins, Sliepperton,
for herbaceous plants; Messrs. E. W. King and Co.,
Coggesliall, for Sweet Peas; the Rev. H. Buckston,
Hutton Hall, for Calceolarias ; Mrs. Rolls Hoare, Horsham,
for scented Pelargoniums ; Robert Sydenham. Limited,
Birmingham, for Sweet Peas ; Messrs. Thomson and
Charman, Adelplii, for hardy plants; Messrs. Robert
Veitch, Exeter, for Calceolarias ; The Wargrave Plant
Farm, Liverpool Street, E.C, for Tidips and herbaceous
plants ; and Messrs. Carlton White, Bond Street, for
clipped Box and topiary work.

'^jafe*^_

GARDEN.

^^^^5^

No. 2168.— Vol. LXXVII,

CONTENTS.

June 7, 1913.

285

•287
287

287

287

287
287

287

Notes of the Week

roRRESPONDENCE

A cbarming W all -
flower

Davidia invotucrata

Honesty in the wild
garden 287

Toads in the gar-
den

Hose Lady Hilling-
don

Primula cock-
bumiaiia . .
l-'orthcomins events..
seasonable notes on

Chrysanthemums. .
CcLTritAL Hints on

New and Hake

Plants 288

HOCK AND Water Garden

The American Wood
Lily 288

A showy Mexican
Poppy 288

The Nymphffias or
hardy Water Lilies
1'i.owER Garden

Seasonable notes on
Sweet Peas. .

Darwin Tulip Mas-
senet

Potentillas in the
border 290

289

290
290

FLOWER Garden
The Uomneyns or
Tree Poppies . . 291

A dainty greenhouse
Primula 291

Trees and Shrubs
Laurels under trees 292
A golden Pseony . . 292

Kitchen Garden
Seasonable notes on
vegetables . . . . 292

Gardening for Beginners
The staking of some

heibaceous plants 293

Parsley 293

Plungino: pots in

summer-time . . 293

Planting Dahlias . . 293

Gardening of the Week
For Southern [gar-
dens 294

For Northern gar-
dens 294

Notes on Tulip.s

295

ANSWERS TO CORRE

spondents
Flower garden . . 295

Fruit garden
Kitchen carden
Miscellaneous

295
295
295

IIiLBSTRATIONS.

A beautiful new hybrid Primula, Leddy Pilrig. . 286

Hunnemannia fumaritefolia 288

.1 beautiful grouping of the American Wood Lily .. 289

Darwin Tulip Massenet ., 290

Primula malacoides 291

The golden Tree Paeony, Piennia arborea la Lorraine 292

A bed of Delphiniums 293

BDITORIAI. NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

T/ie Editor welcomes jjhotographs. articles and notes,
htU he mil not be responsible lor their safe return. All
reasonable car', however, iHll be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions

As regards photographt, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction te plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood thai only the actual photo-
grapher or ovmcr of the copyright will be treated with.

The Enter will not be responsible for the return of artistic
'>r literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Puhlication in The Garden urill alone
be recognised as acceptance.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

^tes : 20. TaHslock Sireei. Covent Garden. W.C.

Our Art Supplement. — In response to requests
made by numerous readers on different occasions,
we are presenting with this issue a photographic
art supplement in place of the usual coloured plate.
Other supplements of this kind will appear in our
issues for July 5, August 2 and .August 30 respec-
tively, after which date a coloured plate will appear
every fortnight as usual. In the meantime coloured
plates will be presented with our issues dated
June 21, July 19 and August r6.

Effective Combination Under Deciduous

Trees. — .\ very pleasing effect may be obtained
by planting Thaspium aureum, the North American
Meadow Parsnip, which has yellow leaves and flowers
somewhat resembling a hardy Euphorbia, with
the common Bluebell, both requiring (he amount
of shade obtained by the trees. The Thaspium
is easily increased by divisions or by seed, and soon
becomes established. The plants then give an
attractive display of beauty annually.
Asters and Insects. — Now that thousands of

.\sters are being planted out for summer effect,
we would warn readers of the danger that is usually
lurking unseen among them. Too often we hear
complaints of plants with their young foliage
curled and crippled, and this is usually due to
mites or aphides. As each plant is lifted from the
box, it should be dipped into some weak insecticide
and moved about in it, so as to thoroughly wet the
whole of the foliage. This simple task now will
in many cases mean the difference between success
and failure later on.
A Useful Crevice Plant (Erinus alpinus).—

Of the multiplicity of alpiiies that flower at this
season, Erinus alpinus occupies a foremost position,
particularly as a subject that finds a suitable
home in chinlss in the alpine garden. Moreover,
it is an excellent wall plant, and may easily be
established in a wall by sowing seeds in crevices
that have been filled in with a stony or gritty
peat and loam. E. alpinus has variable rosy
purple flowers, and the variety albus is a white
counterpart. It is a native of the mountains of
Western Europe, but it is naturalised here and
there in Britain.

An Iris for the Water-side. — Iris sibirica can
be depended upon to grow and flower freely if
planted about the margins of lakes, ponds or
streams where the roots are continually moist,
and there are few showier subjects when it is at
its best during early June. Throughout the growing
season the grass-like leaves present a pleasing
change from coarser vegetation, whereas the tall,
slender flower-scapes, growing to a height of aj feet
or 3 feet, terminated with lilac purple or bluish
flowers, are most attractive. Added to this,
it gives comparatively little trouble, for, once
established, it grows for several years without at-
tention other than keeping it clear of coarse weeds.
When the clumps become overgrown they are

easily put right by dividing up into smaller sections
as soon as the flowers fade.

Wild Gorse and Broom.— Never before in the
memory of the oldest inhabitants of the Southern
Counties have the hillsides and commons been so
resplendent with Gorse and Broom as they are
this year. The Gorse in particular has been
wonderfully effective, the large, inegular masses
of dark green and gold providing an object-lesson
in landscape effect that gardeners would do well
to make a mental note of. Both plants thrive
admirably on dry, sandy soil where little else will
grow, a fact that is now being taken advantage' of
in gardens where soil of this character exists,
the double-flowered Gorse and Cytisus scoparius
andreanus being extensively planted.

The European Snowy Mespilus.— In Ame-
lanchier vulgaris, a native of Europe, we possess
one of the best Snowy Mespiluses or June-berries
for small gardens. It forms a spreading bush
averaging 3 feet to 6 feet high, and, being com-
paratively slow in growth, does not outgrow its
position a few years after planting. A. vulgaris
is later in flowering than the better-known A.
canadensis, being at its best at the beginning of May,
and the flowers are not so fleeting as those of that
species. A. vulgaris is readily distinguished
Irom all the other species by its bushy habit,
hairy leaves and large, pure white flowers. The
Amelanchiers thrive in most soils and situations.
Seeds and layering form ready means of increase.

The Fuchsia-Sowered Gooseberry. — Ribes
speciosum, sometimes known as R. fuchsioides,
the Fuchsia Gooseberry of California, is one of
the most interesting of the flowering shrubs blooming
at the present time, The elegant sprays of flowers,
which are borne in clusters of one to three, with
the stamens twice as long as the calyces, are of a
rich deep red, and somewhat resemble the Fuchsia.
They are very attractive, being borne on the
previous year's growth from 3 feet to 4 feet long.
If room permits, it may be allowed to grow
naturally — it will then form a bush from 6 feet to
8 feet high ; but if the space for it is limited, it
should be cut back as soon as the flowers are over.
In either case it produces a very pleasing effect.

A Beautiful Hardy Annual. — One of the most
interesting annual plants that we have in flower
outdoors just now is Collomia coccinea, which,
although a native of Chili, stands our winters
unharmed. The plants we have, "were self-sown'
last autumn, and have now made dense little'
bushes some 12 inches to 15 inches high. The
flowers, which are vermilion in colour, are produced'
in rather dense clusters, much in the same way
as those of Crassula or Rochea falcata. The
under surface of the petals, and also the flower-
tube, is of rich apricot hue. In addition to its
value for the outdoor garden, this annual is excel-
lent for growing in pots in the greenhouse, where
it will flower early in the year. It is difiicult to
understand whv it is so little known.

286

THE GAUDEN.

[June 7, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Why not a Hardy Shrub Society ?— We have
now Rose, Sweet Pea,. Hardy Plant, Auricula and
other societies for the study and popularisation
of various species of plant-life. May I ask, why
not a Hardy Shrub Society ? There is a large
and growing interest in the beautiful flowering
and evergreen shrubs which we can grow in the
open in these islands, and their number is being
added to yearly. A society which
would promote the planting of the
best of these in private gardens
and might assist their appropriate
use in public gardens and parks
, should be of value to all garden-
lovers. If some of the leading '
growers of hardy shrubs would
take up this idea, the writer, as
a humble amateur, would be glad
to give any assistance in his
power. — E. A. Croft.

Cutting the Foliage of Bulbs.
Those who grow Darwin and Cot-
tage Tulips largely are, naturally,
much interested in the question of
cutting back after flowering.
Owing to the fierce spell of summer
weather which s^t in just after
the Chelsea Show, the flowers aged
rapidly and, moreover, the foliage
ripened with a rapidity that I have
never seen equalled. To my mind
it is simply bad gardening to let
long stems and masses of textureless
leaves remain on the plants for
many days and even weeks — an
eyesore in the garden and abso-
lutely without benefit to the bulbs.
The fear of premature leaf removal
sends people to extremes. Let
them boldly cut the flower-stems
away quite low, with the small,
thin, Wcming leaves adhering, but
keep the large feeder leaf neai'
the base as long as possible. The
appearance of the garden generally
will benefit immensely, and the
bulbs will not suffer injury one jot.
New bulbs form every year, and
I recently turned some up that
were large and well coloured. I
may add that it is a complete
delusion to suppose that May
Tulips require annual removal. —
W. P. W.

Extenninating Worms. — I was
rather surprised to see no edi-
torial comment on Mr. F. Auger's
remarks on exterminating worms in lawns that
appeared on page 280 of last week's issue.
Worms, instead of being the " worst enemies " of
lawns, are their best and, indeed, theu: indis-
pensable friends. They do absolutely no injury
whatever to the grass roots, and the necessary
aeration of the soil is almost wholly their work.
The foolish folk who waste money on the advertised
worm destroyers and attempt to entirely banish
worms from their grass would succeed in nothing
but rendering the soil inert, dead and incapable
of growing grass at all. Fortunately, it is probably

an impossibility to really exterminate the worms
on a grass plot of any size. The only place where
worms are hurtful is a pot or seed-pan, where
the poor creatures are imprisoned and unable to
live naturally. — G. H. Engleheart. [We publish
Mr. Engleheart's letter, but cannot agree with all
his statements. Although worms may not injure
the roots of the grasses, their casts are a great
nuisance, as many owners of lawns know to their
cost. — Ed.1

An excellent way of covering a shady wall in a
conservatory is with the common Hart's-tongue
Fern, planted in shallow soil, covered with moss,
the latter being kept in place on the wall by means
of narrow strands of iron. The entire surface of
a large waU — if in the shade — may be beautified
in this manner. — Eleanor Shelley. Avington,
Alresford, Hants.
A Beautiful Hybrid Primula.— I send with

this note a spike of a hybrid Primula which my
Climbers for a Lofty Conservatory. — Or 1 gardener, Mr. William Robertson, has been success-

reading an answer entitled " Climbers in
Conservatory " in The Garden, issue

a Lofty ful in rearing. It is a cross between P. bulleyana
May 24, ! and P. beesiana. It received a first-class certificate
last year from the Scottish Horti-
cultural Society. This year the
plants have thriven well and have
flowered, as I think, with excep-
tional beauty. I hope you will
agree with me when you see the
flowering stem which I send
with this. The Primula measures
now from the ground to the top
37J inches, and should grow at
least I inch or 2 inches more.
The whorls have seventeen or
eighteen flowers on each. The
colour, as you will see if the spike
travels at all well, combines the
purple red of P. beesiana with the
apricot of P. bulleyana very
delightfully. It has a perfume,
which It takes from the pollen
parent, P. bulleyana. The hybrid
IS named Leddy Pilrig. — (Miss)
B. Balfour-Melville. [The

Primula sent by Miss Balfour-
.Meholle is one of the prettiest we
have ever seen. The spike had
seven whorls of flowers, the sturdy
stem and calyces being coateil
with farina. — Ed.]

Early Vegetable s.— Many

readers of your excellent report of
the great show of the Royal
Horticultural Society at Chelsea,
issue May 24, must have a longing
to grow early vegetables when
they peruse that part of it which
describes the produce staged b\-
Mr. Beckett of Aldenham House
Gardens, the Thatcham Fruit and
Flower Farm, Messrs. James Carter
and Co., Messrs. Sutton and Sons,
and other firms. Undoubtedly,
the production of such forward
vegetables means suitable accom-
modation and strict and very
competent attention. 1 have
always dune my best to secure
fairly early vegetables at a
small cost. Early Potatoes,
Radishes, Turnips, Carrots and
page xvi., the following additional climbing plants, I Lettuces were grown on rubbish soils collected
with their varieties, occur to me, all of which diuring the summer and winter from the potting-
flourish here without stove heat : Abutilon, i sheds and other places, and, being mixed with leat-

A BEAUTIiLil, Ni-W HYBRID PRIMULA, LEDDY PILRIG, THE RESULT
OF CROSSING P. BULLEYANA AND P. BEESIANA.

practically evergreen ; Tacsonia, seen to advantage
on a roof, from which it hangs in long, graceful
sprays, and very quick growing ; Bougainvillea,
Plumbago, the species of Fuchsia (F. gracilis 1
think it is) with all red flowers on long, slender
stalks and large, handsome leaves ; also Vitis
henryana, the distinctively marked leaves of which
are most effective trained up a pillar. It turns a
deep crimson purple in winter and is self-clinging.

soil, were put down i foot to 18 inches deep on
mild hot-beds in the open in early spring. Boards
on edge, with Pea-sticks or laths on the top to
support clean litter or canvas on frosty nights,
constituted all the protection needed, and really
very fine crops were secured many weeks before
they could be had from the open borders.
The present is a good time to commence collecting
odd soils for the purpose. — Avon.

June 7, i9i3-l

THE GARDEK.

287

A Charming Wallflower.— Cheiranthus AUioni

showtd up prettily m one or two of the rock gardens
at the Chelsea Show, Messrs. Barr and Sons having
a particularly bright i>atch of it. Those who
.ulniire this cheery little Wallflower should grow
also C. Arkwrightii, that is, if it is procurable, and
I have an idea that it is now on the market. This
plant is a cross between Allioni and alpinus,
and was raised by Mr. J. S. Arkwright ot Presteign.
Plants sent me by the raiser a year or two back
are now in full flower here, and are among the
brightest little pieces of colour in my garden. —
F. Herbert Chapman. Rye.

Davidia involucrata. — This must be a wonderful
tree, by all accounts, when in bloom. Although
now, 1 suppose, found in several gardens, it must
be still quite uncommon. I bought a very small
plant of it from Messrs. Lemoine, Nancy, in
December, 1906. It came by post in a tiny box.
The plant could not have been more than a few
inches in length. Now it measures 5 feet 2 inches
in height, and is exactly 4 inches in circumference
at the thickest part of the stem. The singularity
of the tree, and its strange beauty when in flower,
would almost seem to make a journey to China
worth while to see it in its home ! How much we
owe to the enterprise of Messrs. Veitch and Mr.
Wilson ! They have placed within our reach
such a large number, of beautiful Chinese plants
and trees. — (Rev.) William W. Flemvsc, Coolfin,
I'ortlaw, County Walerford.

Honesty in the Wild Garden.— I am much

interested in the reference to the above-named
plant in " Notes of the Week," issue May 24,
and also on page 276, May 31 issue. The general
beauty and usefulness of the plant is not recognised
as much as it deserves to be. As suggested in the
notes referred to, the best place for the plants is
the wild or semi-cultivated portion of the girden.
The seedlings are tenacious of life, and will survive
in most unlikely places. In a garden in Lancashire
there is a wild portion of great extent ; in fact, it
encircles a small park, and has a wide strip (varying
in width) of ground in which trees, shrubs, bulbous
and other kinds of plants, including Honesty, grow.
The latter formed irregular masses and looked
charming indeed when in flower, and when the seed-
shields were mature the plants were cut down and the
shields gently beaten to separate them. — B.

Toads in the Garden. — Perhaps I may be allowed
space to make .mother brief reference to the value
of toads in the garden. " H. P." has a very inter-
esting note on page 251, issue May 24. Many-
years ago I was told by a gardener, who for a time
worked in Messrs. Dicksons', Limited, nursery
at Chester, that there was a toad kept in one of
the propagating-houses, and that he was greatly
valued and made quite a pet of. He had lost one
eye. At stated times he used to take his stroll,
hop, or walk far out into the nursery grounds ; but,
with equal punctuality, he was back at the duor
of the house waiting for the attendant to come
and open it, when he would go in. This toad
was a very old one. I have fovmd toads invaluable
in vineries and houses where earwigs, woodlice
and other insect pests were troublesome. The two
I had last I accidentally killed through sprinkling
an insecticide powder on them behind the hot-
water pipes. — G. G.

Rose Lady Hillingdon. — My experience of this
Rose IS quiti- m opposition to the note on page 225,
May 10 issue, in which doubt is cast upon the good
manners of this charming variety in the open.
Mv pi. ml 1)1 it was put out in June, 1911. from a

pot, when it gave some nice blooms quite late in
the autumn. Last year, in spite of the bad season,
especially in our stiff soil with so much rain, I had
a lovely lot of intensely-coloured flowers. The only
fault I find with its growth is that the stems and
peduncles are weak. This, coupled with the weight
of the full flowers, makes them droop. In this
way the blooms do not show themselves so well
upon the plants or in a cut state ; except for the
latter purpose they are neatly wired. — E. M.
[The drooping habit of this Rose is rmdoubtedly
a great drawback, but this could be tolerated if
the colour were good. We have never seen blooms
of really good colour from outdoor bushes in a
fully-exposed situation. — Ed.]

Primula cockburniana. — it is a pleasure to
receive the experience of so many of your readers
with P. cockburniana, but I am rather surprised
to observe that several of them appear to attach
little importance to the biennial or perennial
habit of this Primula. If we are to look upon it
as a really reliable occupant of our gardens, we
must endeavour to secure its cultivation as a
perennial and not as a biennial. One knows how-
many really good biennials are dropped out of
gardens because they either do not sow- them-
selves well or require renewal, either by saving
seeds or by propagation, by division, or cuttings.
P. cockburniana does sow itself well in many
places, but in others it has hardly any opportunity
of doing so, and cannot be trusted to be left alone
to reproduce itself. In such places, at least, it
is highly desirable, surely, that it should be grown
as a perennial. The multiplicity of plants which
require constant propagation is quite a straiii
upon the resources of many places, w-ithout adding
any more than can be helped. If, however, it
can be proved to satisfaction that old plants are
inferior to young ones, a suflScient reason for
annual propagation from seeds and treating
P. cockburniana as a biennial might be admitted.
I am confident, however, that any who have an
opportunity of seeing the old plants as grown by
Mr. W. Hutchmson in the gardens of Mr. C. E.
Galbraith at Terregles, Dumfries, will not be
disposed to favour growing P. cockburniana as a
biennial. The picture of health, free-blooming
and beautiful, these plants, as I saw them a w-eek or
so ago, were superb, and much superior to small
one year old plants, how-ever w-ell grown. We find
that new plants receive more attention in the
w-ay of propagation than old ones ; and that they
may receive some new claimant for the limited
amount of time at the disposal of the garden calls
for attention in the way of propagation. But for
the necessity of frequent propagation, the old double
Rockets and the Mule Pinks, for example, would
be all the more cultivated instead of being com-
paratively scarce now. P. cockburniana has the
advantage over these of reproducing itself from
seeds, but it should be the aim of all to have as
few things as possible to raise annually, unless there
are gains commensurate with the amount of time
and trouble they require. Those of us who know
the pressure of work in many gardens always
welcome any knowledge of cultural detail which
will keep it as low as possible. — S. Arnott.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON
CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

u

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

June 9. — ■ United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Meeting.

Jvme ri. — East Anglian Horticultural Club's
Meeting.

June 13. — National Hardy Plant Society's Show
at the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall.

SUALLV, cultivators possess batches jf
plants for exhibition — for the pro-
duction of large blooms in a cut state
to place on boards or in vases — as
specimens, for the furnishing of the
conservatory or greenhouse, and for
the supply of cut flowers from the time of Dahlias
to Christmas and after. These are in addition to
the plants grown in the open borders. All these
require a vast amount of attention and labour if
they are to be quite satisfactory in due season.
Many persons have ample space outside to accom-
modate the plants in the summer, but lack it under
glass in the autumn. It is a mistake to over-
stock, and this is the time to make the balance.

Potting. — Throughout the month of June,
growers will be busy potting some of their plants,
notably those late-rooted which are being trans-
ferred to their flowering pots. Very hard ramming
down of the soil must be avoided. An inex-
perienced cultivator, who is now growing a batch
of plants in earnest, called on me a few days ago
and asked me to give him a few hints about composts
and potting. He said ; " I have grown a few plants
in previous years, but without much success ;
I think I pot too hard, and take quite five minutes
to pot, finally, a single plant. When I turn out
the soil in the autumn, the final potting compost
falls away, as it contains few roots." Now, 1 myself .
have seen this condition of compost and plants.
To spend nearly five minutes ramming soil down in
a flower-pot is worse than time wasted. It defeats
the object in view-. Only moderately firm potting
is needed; the Japanese varieties must not be
potted quite as firmly as those of the imuuvod
section.

Position in Simimer for^the Plants.— Usually,

when the final putting has been completed, the plants
are placed in blocks close together for a time ; but
they must not be left so for any lengthened period.
Put them 18 inches apart in rows running north
and south, and allow a space of 4 feet or 5 feet
between the rows. The pots may be placed on
a bed of ashes, but they are best on tiles or boards.
On the latter they do well lining garden paths,
where it is convenient. Specimen plants should
have a position by themselves. Two rows of
wires, fixed to strong stakes, will be necessary for
plants that grow 5 feet and more high, aod one wire
for plants under five feet. Always apply water
through a rosed watering-can.

Persistent Bud Formation.— Some varieties
give a lot of trouble and create much disappoint-
ment through persistently forming buds instead of
growing on freely. A bud shows, it is pinched out,
another young shoot appears and then it bears
a bud, and so on mitil the summer is well advanced.
The only thing to do is to remove these premature
buds. I have tried topping the plants — that is,
pinching off about two inches — but it was not a
remedy ; buds still formed. Sometimes a bud
at the right date may appear and be " taken," and
the resultant bloom is a passable one ; but more
frequently the bloom develops too late, owing to
the late appearance of the bud that can, with con-
fidence, be safely " taken."

Planting-Out for Lifting.— Where pots are
scarce and many plants are required for the pro-
duction of cut flowers, a number may be planted —
say, in the kitchen garden or on a spare plot of

288

THE GAEDEN.

[jUNK

?■ 1913

ground — with the object of lifting and placing them
on Vine or Peach borders in the autumn.
A Simple Way of Planting-Out. — For many

years I carried out the following plan. On a bed
of ashes I placed the plants 2 feet apart in rows
4 feet asunder. Only a thin layer of soil was put
under the plants, but the roots were well covered
with good compost, and, as the season advanced,
top-dressings were added. These plants, being
close to a water supply, did remarkably well, and
in the autumn were readily lifted by placing a
strong garden fork under each, and conveyed to
the border under glass, where they did not suffer
any check. The plants so treated were dwarfer
than others planted out, very bushy
and frcelv flowered. .\voN.

loving species, nowhere happier than near abundant
supplies of moisture in rich soils. Native of
Western China, where at great elevation it is said
to cover whole mountain meadows. Raise from
seeds sown when fully matured.

Anemone seythinica. — This is one of the
A. blanda set, and one of the most charming plants
of spring. Externally the sepals are coloured a
deep purplish blue, the inner row of petals being
white. In a group of it both colours are seen in
the picture, the contrast of intense, almost gentian
blue and pure white bemg particularly fine.

Height
habit

6 inches to
tufted and

8 inches when established ;
highlv ornamental. Loves

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

T

CULTURAL HINTS
ON NEW AND
RARE PLANTS.

(Ciiiiliiiifd from page 205.)
TREES AND SHRUBS.

Davidia involucrata is a large-
growing tree from Chnia, where
it is reported to form a specimen
as large as a Hor^e Chestnut.
Although only introduced twelve
or thirteen years ago, so amenable
is it to cultivation that there
are already numerous specimens
15 feet in height and over.
Well-drained loamy soil suits it
well, while it also thrives in soil
of a peaty character. Cuttings
both young and fuUy-ripened shoots
may lie rooted.

Pyracantha angustifolia. — Th
may be recognised by some
people under the name of Cotone
aster angustifolia, but the former
is now considered tlie corrci
name. An evergreen shrub, il
makes a worthy companion
llir cinlin.uy Pyracantha. and is
a loiitr.isl by nasi in of ils
yellowish or goldcMi berries. In
tlic milder parts of the country
it may In grown hi loamy
soil III .III open border, but
elscwheir il slunikl be placed
against -i w.dl.

Styrax hemsleyana, a new

species from Szcchuan and Hupeh,
is likely to form one of the
most ornamental species of the
genus, for it has whitish bark,
bold foliage, and bears good-sized inflorescences
of white flowers. Like other Styraxes, it may be
planted in warm, well-dramed, loamy soil contain-
ing a little peat.

HARDY PLANTS.

Primula bulleyana. — Among the moderns m
the Primula world this is certainly one of the most
beautiful and distinct, valuable alilce for vigour,
for amenability to cultivation in British gardens,
and for newness of colour in its own family. The
predominant colour is orange, but there ,ue also
touches of apricot, buff and seal Id . llie plant
forms greal spreading rosettes of leaves, (lom
which tlie liiagiiilicenl spikes of flowers, 2 feet to
il fill liigh, issue in Jmie and July. A moisture

THE AMERICAN WOOD LILY.

(Trillium gkandiflorum.)
HIS year the American Wood Lily seems
to have flowered with exceptional
freedom in various gardens throughout
the country. Not that it is in any
way a difficult subject to manage, for
it may be relied upon to flower more
or less freely every year. Moreover, it is a most
accommodating plant, for not only is it most at
home in the partial shade of a woodland garden
and in a cool, leafy soil, but
it also flourishes as a semi-
bog plant or in the drier position
of a pocket in the rock garden.
T. grandiflorum is one of those
popular plants having the mis-
fortune to bear a multiplicity of
common names. Of the names
given to this plant, that of the
American Wood Lily appears to
be the most appropriate, for it is
a native of North .\merica and
belongs to tlie Natural Order
Liliaceff.

For naturalising in shady places
it is well adapted, and when grown
in the natural leafy soil of old woods
it increases rapidly, while it doe)
almost equally well on a deep and
well-drained lied of peaty soil.
.\lthougli there are a number of
species, the subject of this note is
unquestionably the most useful as a
garden flower. The three-petalled
flowers of T. grandiflorum are very
chaste and snow white, fading to
pale rose with age. The subject of
our illustration on page 289 is that
known as T. grandiflorum roseum.
It is a suitable companion to the
type, the flowers being of a rosy
hue, deepening in colour aftei
expanding.

HUNNEMANNIA FUMARI.ffiFOLIA, A LITTLE-KNOWN PERENNIAL WITH
GREY FOLIAGE AND YELLOW FLOWERS.

deep, rich, light, sandy soils, .\bhors clay.
Raised to any extent almost from seeds, which,
if sown soon after ripening, first flower at eighteen
months old. Flowers March-.^pril. A notable
plant, good and cheap.
Campanula Profusion Varieties. — Most growers

of choice Bellflowers have not yet realised that
there are two distinct varieties of this plant, and
both are good for their late flowering. One
has self-coloured flowers of a good blue tone, the
other sky blue, mauve-shaded flowers of exquisite
delicacy aiid charm. For their late as well as
abundant and profuse flowering they .are recom-
lueiidr.l, ll.il.il Ir^iiliiiK, Spiiiii,' nil lings or
di\'isi<iii.

{Jij be cniitliiiud.)

A SHOWY MEXICAN
POPPY.

(HUNNEMANNIA FUMARl.EFOLI A.)

Tins rather uncommon plant with
bright yellow Poppy-like flowers
might at first sight be mistaken for
the better-known Eschscholtziacali-
fornica, to which it is closely allied.
The subject of this note is the sole
representative of the genus. It is
a native of Mexico and takes its name after Hunne-
mann, a zealous botanist who died in 1837, while
the specific name indicates that the plant is Fumaria-
leaved. Coming from a much warmer clime than
ours, it is not surprising that it should prove only
half-hardy in this country. Seeds may, however,
be sown in the open either in spring or autumn, and,
providing protection from frost and wet is given
in the winter, it will continue to grow for years,
as it is of perennial duration. A fairly rich soil
suits it best, and it succeeds luuler much the same
conditions as the lovely .Senecio pulchelliim. Not
onlv is Hiinnemannia showy when in flower, but
it i^ also liaiidsomi' in foliage, while Im |il.iiilini
ON llir siiiiiu* side of the rock garden in .1 |Mnkcl
sheltered iroia cold winds it is to be niiiinieiiditl.

fUNE 7, 1913-]

THE GARDEN.

289

TUB NYMPH-EAS OR HARDY WATER
LILIES.

(Conliiiucd from t^agc 207.)

Varieties. — Many lovers ot the Water Lily I
ti.ivi- cultivated the older hybrids and found great '
satisfaction therein, as I know (almost too well)
by the larfje amount if correspondence received
at variovis times, yet they have not ventured to
add to their collections some of the later hybrids,
not by any means the newest and, consequently,
the most rare, but those that are comparatively
plentiful. Such, for instance, as the following, viz.,
N"yniph.ea Marliacea ignea, a siimewhat miniature-
growing hybrid iuid one well sviited for fountains
and shallow basins, \«th very brilliant H<iwers ;
N. sangiiinca (N. caroliniana x N. Laydekeri,
Marliac), another Lily for the fountain or basin, very
free-flowering ; N. pygmaea Helvola (N. tctragona x
K. mexicana, Marliac, 1803), quite a
gem, with pale yellow flowers, the
smallest of all the hybrids and
.uiothi-r good subject for shallow
water ; N. odorata exquisita (Marliac,
1898), a most lovely shade of rosy
pink and of moderate growth ; N.
caroliniana perfecta and N. carolhiiana
rosea, two gems in their way ; and \.
caroliniana nivea, a pure white form,
are all nt Marliac's raising. The pre-
ceding are about the best that can be
chosen for the purposes indicated.
Others with more vigorous growth are :
N. r'roebelii, raised by the late M.
I'roebel of Zurich. This is not a
hybrid, but the result of repeated
selection from seedlings raised from
N. spha;rocarpa rosea, and from first
to last, when N. Froebelii resulted, a
period of twenty years elapsed. N.
James Brydon, an American-raised
hybrid (N. Candida rubra x X.
Laydekeri, Dreer, 1902), a most
profuse-flowering hybrid, and one of
the most distuict, the colour being
almost impossible to describe ; a
pinkish crimson may perhaps describe
it. Its form, also, is globular, hence
quite distinct, too, in this respect. N.
Marliacea chromatella foliis mar-
moratis should be noted as a varie-
gated form of this well - known
hybrid.

I have often been asked to
name some of the best and most
distinct of these hybrid Nymphieas.
In my opinion the following constitute the best
so far in cultivation : Whites — N. gladstoneana,
N.virginalis, N. Marhacea albida and N. caroliniana
nivea. Pale pinks — N. Mrs. Richmond. N. for-
mosa, N. Marliacea rosea and N. Colossea. Deeper
pinks — N. Masaneillo, N. suavissima. N. somptuosa
and N. Newton. Yellows — N. Marliacea chroma-
tella or N. mooreana (the last named of a deeper
shade of yellow), N. odorata sulphurea grandiflora
and N. pygmaea Helvola. Crimsons and shades
of crimson — N. atropurpurea, N. Attraction, N.
ellisiana, N. Escarbonele, N. Meteor, N. James
Brydon, N. gloriosa, N. Froebelii, N. Marliacea
flammea, N. sanguinea, N. William Falconer,
N. Marliacea ignea, N. Robinsonii and N. lucida.
These comprise thirty of the very best, so tar as
1 have taken note of them at various times.

Enemies. — Like all other plants that are culti-
vated in our gardens, the Water Lilies have soran

enemies to contend with. The water snail is one
that is, in a. few waters, somewhat troublesome.
The best remedy that I can advise for this is
the use of finely-gnnnid lime (not slaked lime,
which is not quite so effective, I think). If very
troublesome, then lower the water and destroy
all that can be seen, and lime all the surface lightly
before raising the water-level again. Too free a
use of lime, be it noted, is prejudicial, in ray opinion.
Aphides will attack them at times. For this the
remedy is spraying over the entire surface towards
the evening, .uid with repeated doings if needful,
selecting a dry, quiet time if possible. A mite or
other small aquatic insect will eat away the
leaves from the under side, b'or this llie remedy
is a well-proven insecticide at about double the
usual strength of application. This should be
forced tmder the foliage, so that it rises against
tlie under surface of the leaves. Anr)ther and

l;u-gc or small, predominate. The vole or water-
rat is also an enemy to tlic crowns, and this rodent
will do .1 lot of harm possibly before he is detected.
Cultural Hints. — In small basins and where
fountains, too, are in play at times — anywhere, in
fact, where the beneficial effects of the syringe
can be utilised — it is well to syrmge the plants over-
head during hot weather and towards the close of
the day. On our lake we cannot well do this, but
I have raised a smile sometimes when I have said
that our Water Lilies would be all the better for
a good shower. If accessible and time can be given
to it, it is a good plan to wade in and aroimd the
plants and remove any dead or decaying foliage,
also where the leaf-growth is too thick. Old
flowers can at the same time be removed. Occa-
sionally 1 have noted that some leaves get scorched
on very hot days. Remove these where it is
possible to do so.

A BEAUTII-UL GROUPING OF THE AMERICAN WOOD LILY IN THE ROCK GARDEN.

most determined enemy of the Water Lily, in my
experience, has been the waterfowl of divers kinds,
from the black and white swans down to the moor-
fowl. All grades have a liking either for the young
bronzy leaves of many of the best hybrids or for
the flowers themselves. The moorfowl will peck
through the unopened buds of those of the highest
colour ; this is most provoking. Again, as I
have alluded to, the same bird will appropriate
the leaves of the individually small plants (these
in most instances will be the choicer kinds), and
this, too, is annoying, as if the leaves of the older
varieties were not good enough for making their
nests. Ducks will dive and peck out the hearts
of small plants very persistently, while swans do
a vast amomit of injury in tearing off the leaves
and swimming through the separate plants. Water
Lilies, other than the common variety, cannot
be grown as they should be where aquatic birds.

Congenial Positions. — Failure in many instances
has undoubtedly arisen through planting Water
Lilies in what may be termed running water.
I have found out this to be the case by the numerous
letters I have received upon the subject. I have
in my travels taken note of where Water Lilies
establish themselves in waters that are moving
to some considerable extent. I watched for them
all one day on journeying up the Rhine from
Cologne to Mayence. At last I found a few in
what we should term a back-water, where the
movement of the water was not felt. In the same
way and fashion I found them in the waters behind
the city of Bergen in Nonvay, and also upon inland
lakes, but always in such positions. Upon a sheet
of water well above Coniston Lake — in a mountain
tarn, in fact — I found them in rather deeper water,
but where there was not much movement, all the
same. When in Norway I looked in vain for

290

THE GARDEN.

[June 7, 1913.

varieties with any tinge oi colour in the flowers-
Those with this characteristic, I am informed on
good authority, exist in Sweden in considerable
quantity. If it were possible, I should like to
see these growing. I refer to such as N. alba rosea
(syn. N. sphjerocarpa rosea), which I never
succeeded in growing ?. tisfactorily at Gunnersbury.
Water Lilies undoubtedly prefer quiet water, not
so much so as to be termed stagnant, but where
there is not a great variation. If I had, however,
to deal with a sheet of water that was stagnant,
and was thus a source of trouble and complaint,
I would plant Water Lilies there. This would, I
feel, obviate the difficulty by keeping] the surface
of the water quieter. Too great a
depth of mud is not advisable, for
this would encourage leaf-growth
at the expense of flowers. I have
known this to occur. The ideal
position for Water Lilies is, in my
opinion, an open, placid lake where
the sun has full influence upon the
plants and the water also. A con-
sideralile variation in depth is advis-
able. James Hudson, V.M.H.
Gunticrsbury House, Actoii, W.

not less than 3 feet, should find their plants continue
in health. At a modest computation one would
regard three gallons to the square yard as the
smallest quantity, and advise five gallons on light
soil.

Mulching. — Herein lies the secret of avoiding
the too frequent use of the water-pot, Cover the
surface of the soil with some suitable material
which will keep it cool and arrest evaporation,
and on naturally holding soils it will rarely .be
found needful to give water. It is not always
convenient to provide manure for this purpose,
though the preference should always be given
to it, because it provides a certain amount of readily

FLOWER GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON
SWEET PEAS.

Disbudding. — Arising out of the
decisions which have been reached
by judges at great and small shows
throughout the entire length of the
country, it has come to be accepted
that a spike of Sweet Peas for
exhibition must he something
approaching to 2 teet in length,
and that it shall carry not fewer
than four more or less floppy
flowers set more or less gracefully
on the stems. It is unfortunate
that this should be so ; but the
fiat has gone forth, and no one is
allowed to look at smaller, perfectly
formed and arranged blooms on a
shorter leg. To give the requisite
length, severe disbudding of all
lateral shoots must be one of the
rules, and it will result in a plant
that is grown purely for exhibition
and not for the embellishment of
the garden. The disbudding
must be strictly followed up,
or the desired end will not be
achieved.

Watering. — No one doubts for
an instant the imperative neces-
sity of maintaining the soil about
the roots of Sweet Peas pleasantly moist, but many
people regard incessant watoring with more than
doubtful favour. And they aie wise, for nothing
so prejudices the progress of the plants or, in my
opinion, more rapidly predisposes them to attacks
of " streak " as constantly pourii.^ cold, hard
water from the main into the ground. Those
who can avoid watering from start to finish save
labour for one thing, and reduce the possibilities
of failure to a minimum for another thing. It
is, of course, difficult to reach so ideal a state,
and often it is quite impossible to do so ; but
those who make it a rule to water on'v when it
is necessary, and then to give enough to soak dovra

very dry, windy days. When and conditions
prevail, the plants lose a considerable amount of
vital energy, and they are helped towards complete
recovery by the treatment suggested. Not only
this, but the syringing or hosing tends to increase
the length of the stems.

Feeding. — When inexperienced growers see .'
plant in poor health or think that it is sufierinj
from some dread disease, they promptly turn to
the liquid manure tub in the confident expectation
that applications of strong manure-water will restore
it to health. Nothing could be further from the
truth in respect of Sweet Peas or anything else.
To derive benefitifrom special food a plant must be
n perfect condition, and, given this
state, a Sweet Pea will not object
to a varied and generous diet.
The initial point will be to see
that the ground is moist, and then
to use the particular manure that
is fancied. There is not so much-
in the kind as in the manner of
giving it and the variety which can
be imparted. A plant will always
respond more readily to a fresh
food than to one that has already
been given twice or thrice, and this
should guide the cultivator to the
desirability of finding the change
that is so beneficial.

DARWIN TULTP MAS-
SENET.
The outstanding feature of this
variety is that it is quite distinct
in colour from any other. Not that
it is brightly coloured ; on the
contrary, it is of a somewhat dull
rose pink externally and flesh-
tinted within. The shading of the
flower is beautiful, and affords a
pleasing contrast to the electric
blue and green coloured base. The
flowers, perfect in form, are borne
on long, stout stems. When shown
by Messrs. Bath, Wisbech, at a
recent meeting of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society, this variety gained
what is this year a rare distinction
for a Tulip, viz., the society's award
of merit.

DARWIN TULIP

MASSENKT. A ROSE PINK
ELECTRIC BLUE BASE.

VARIETY WITH AN

available food and serves the primary uitention
of the mulch. Where it is not at command, turn
to the mowings from the lawn, and spread them
freely from within a few inches of the stems to
2 feet outwards from them. Failing grass cuttings,
secure anything else about the place that will
answer the purpose in view ; and when nothing
can be had, rely upon incessant hoeing to create
a dusty condition on the. top, as this will prove
excellent, though not equal to manure or grass.

Syringing. — Although it is undesirable, except
under compulsion, to give water at the roots,
it is indisputably advantageous to hose or syringe
the plants vigorously on the evenings of hot or

they should

POTENTILLAS IN THE
BORDER.

The value of the Potentilla in
the border in summer is not now
so much realised as in former
years, although the wealth of
variety offered is greater than
ever before. To do them justice
have a rich, well-manured soil,
not too much subject to drought, and they
f ought always to be tied to stakes, unless
they are planted on rockwork. The fine double
I hybrids are by far the best for border subjects,
making large plants with crowds of their hand-
some, well-coloured double blooms. They are
now too numerous to discuss under name, but
a purchaser can hardly go wrong in selecting
from a good hardy nursery catalogue. They may
be had in almost every floral colour, from deepest
brown, almost black, through reds, yellows ant'
various shades, some being spotted and other
almost roarWed with various shades, S. A,

June 7, 1913.]

THE GAllDEN.

291

THE ROMNEVAS OR TREE POPPIBS.

(See full pagf SuppUmcut.)
Untii. about fifteen years ago only one species of
the Californian Tree Poppy (Romneya Coulteri)
was known to exist. Investigations made in i89<S
by Miss A. Eastwood, Curator of the Herbarium
of tlie C.iliforniari Academy, proved the existence
of a second species, wliich slie described under
the name of R. trichocalyx. Both are natives of
California. The exact date of the introduction
of R. trichocaly.x is not known, as it was in culti-
vation in this country as R. Coulteri previous to
1898. The first recorded flowering of the new
species was in 1902, in the garden of Mr. H. C.
Baker, Oaklands, Almondsbury, Gloucestershire.
Difterences between this plant and the familiar
vigorous growths of R. Coulteri were noticed,
the late Mr. George Nicholson recognising the
plant as Miss Eastwood's new species, R. tricho-
calyx, described four years previously.
In the autumn of the same year|
(1902) this lady sent seeds to Kew,
the plants raised flowering in about
twent\" months from sowing.

In habit R. trichocalyx is less
vigorous than R. Coulteri, producing
mure growths, but the stems are
thinner and more leafy. The buds of
R. trichocalyx are round and hairy,
those of R. Coulteri being j more
pointed and smooth. Though quite
as good a garden plant as K.
Coulteri, the subject of the illustra-
tion is readily distinguished when
seen growing side by side with it,
as it does not possess those thick,
tall stems, upright habit and the
substance of the less divided leaves
of R. Coulteri. R. Coulteri was
lirst introduced in 1875 by Messrs.
E. G. Henderson and Son, and as
the plants seldom mature good seeds
ill this country, most of the seed sold
is obtained from California annually.

The Romneyas are not of the
plants we meet with thriving in
every garden throughout the country.
The experiences and successes under
such widely different conditions of
climate and soil are so confusing
that one hesitates to recommend
cultural details. Take, for example,
the following letter published in The
Garden of August 12, 1905, from
an Irish reader : " Sir, — I send you
a photograph of my Romneya Coul-
teri, which has been a mass of blooms for the past
three weeks. The plant is growing on a wall facing
south-east, and has been in its present position for
eight years since I planted it, a small plant, out
of a 4-inch pot. It is now over twelve feet high,
about five feet wide and blooms profusely every
year. The soil of my garden is light, thin, poor
and hungry, and the plant has never had any
.assistance in the way of manure of any sort since
it was planted." The most unsatisfactory soil
for Romneyas is a wet, heavy clay. Those who
have tried to grow the Californian Poppies in their
garden and failed under ordinary conditions
should try the follomng cultural recommenda-
tions : Choose a position at the base of a south
or south-west wallj sheltered from the north and
east. Take out a hole 2j feet deep, put in the
bottom a foot of brick rubble for drainage, over
this place iS inches of Good sandv turfv loam,

a little Iraf-uioiihl, an<l plentvof old mortar rubble
or road grit to keep it open. This will ensure
efficient drainage when the plants are at rest in
winter, while ample supplies of water, including
liquid manure, can be given the plants if the
weather is dry in the summer. A mulching of
leaf-mould or old decayed manure is also
beneficial.

Romneyas may perhaps be best described as
sub-shrubby, for during a mild winter the stems
and foliage survive. On the other hand, severe frosts
kill the stems to the ground. Though flowers may
be produced by the stems which survive, by far
the best display is made by the Wgorous young
shoots which push up from the base and smother
the old growths. The average height of these
in the case of R. Coulteri is from 5 feet to 7 feet or
8 feet, occasionally more. R. trichocalyx grows
about three feet to live feet high. Either of these

ripe ; otherwise sow as soon as they come to hand,
even if it is November or December. Romncyj
seeds are often very slow in germinating, and may
not move for several months if they have been kept
for some time. Cuttings made of the smaller
ripened shoots in autumn which have not flowered
will root under a bell-glass in light, sandy soil.
They usually show little sign of movement till
spring, when a few or most of the cuttings may
start off. Success in prcpagation is also possible
witli pieces of the thick, fleshy roots in early spring.
\ plate. No. 465, of R. Coulteri was published in
The Garden for November 8, 1884.

A DAINTY GREENHOUSE PRIMULA.

(PRlMfLA MAI.ACOIDES.)

Although of comparatively recent introduction,
this daintv Primula is alreadv a favourite, and

PRIMULA MALACOIDES, A BEAUTIKUL GREENHOUSE PLANT THAT. CAN BE EASILY RAISED FROM

SEED.

plants, with six to twelve flovsers open at one
time, is a most beautiful and imposing sight. The
flowers average 6 inches across, with shining
white petals almost like slightly crumpled
satin, with a large tuft of yellow stamens in
the centre. The flowers are fragrant. The
flowering season is from June to October. When
once planted out in the border, Romneyas should
not be disturbed, for there are few plants which
transplant so badly. Any interference with the
fleshy roots is most detrimental to the plants,
so that till large enough and the final position is
decided upon, Romneyas should be grown in pots.
In most gardens it is as well to place a small mound
of ashes round the plants in winter to throw off or
absorb excessive moisture in winter.

The easiest and most satisfactory method of
propagation is from seed. If fortunate enough to
procure home-grown seeds, sow them as soon as

may be found in many gardens of this country.
Moreover, it is being widely grown for market —
a certain sign of popularity. The flowers are of
a pretty pale mauve, produced tier upon tier in
a light and graceful manner. Of free and easy
growth, it is invaluable for cutting and for green-
house decoration during the winter months. It
is usually grown as a pot plant, but it is surprising
to note how freely self-sown seedlings under a green-
house staging will flower when allowed to. Seed may
sown any time in the summer months, preferably be
in August. Sown in pans in a gentle heat, the
seedlings should be potted oft singly in 3-inch pots
as soon as they can be handled. On no account
should this Primula be coddled in a heated atmo-
sphere. It is one of the most satisfactory of all
flowers for the unhealed greenhouse. There is a
pure white variety now in commerce known as
P. malacoides alba.

292

THE GARDEN.

[June 7, 1913,

TREES AND SHRUBS.

those
result
about

LAURELS UNDER TREES.

AT one time the planting of common Laurels
i\ under tall forest trees to hide the

/ % soil where little else would grow,
^"^ owing to the drip from the trees
» * above and the absence of light

below, was largely practised, and
who did so were well pleased with the
Of late there has been a loud outcry
the wide use of common Laurel, and
in a general way it has lieen vigorously condemned,
too often, though, without the mention of a substi-
tute. That is, in my opinion, a poor argument.
Those who condemn a practice should suggest
a remedy. Now, as to the value of tlu- comuiou
Laurel under trees, when first
planted, if properly t e n d e d ,
manured and annually pruned, a
tliick green screen is quickly
obtained, and remains so for nuuiy
years with close attention. There,
however, comes a time when the
plants become " leggy," showing
the soil underneath, especially
roimd the edge of the clump, and
gradually becoming untidy. The
remedy is to cut down the whole
of the plants to within a foot or so
of the soil, when new growth will
push from the stems and become
a thick mass of grei'iiery again in
a few years. While this is going
on, how bare and untidy this
part becomes ! My plan is to t.ike
away all the Laurels, trench the
soil as well as the roots of tlic
trees above will admit, and add
manure freely. Plant Irish Ivy
quite thickly over the plot ; this
will in a short time make a dense
green covering. The leaves from
the trees above will annually
enrich the soil, giving a fillip to
the grow-th of the Ivy. Here and
tlierc in the lightest places plant
groups of Berberis Aquifolium. not
less than 6 feet in diameter. In tlie
still lighter places, plants of
the common yellow Broom would
succeed and certainly add variety.
The growing of Ivy under the trees
affords an opportunity to plant
bulbs of the strong-growing kinds of
Narcissus, like Emperor, Horsfieldii.
Golden Spur and the old double
Daffodil. I know they would not
succeed so well as in the open, but
a quantity of flowers would be obtained, all tending
to give variety and brighten an otherwise dull
part of the garden. E. M.

e.xc.cptional aw.n-duf a first-<-lass certifiralr, and was
proclainied one ol llie most striknii; novelties
introduced In this I'nnntrv this season.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON VBGE
TABLES.

N some gardens vegetables are thought more
of than either fruit or flowers by the culti-
vator, and receive attention accordingly.
The general rule is, however, that lovers
o[ fruits and flowers also take a great delight
ui growuig vegetables. To all those who

are nnt well versed in their euUiv.ation the following

Innls will be nseliil.

1

A GOLDEN P^ONY.

(P,E0NIA ARBOREA La LORRAINE.)

Various references in praise of this beautiful
Pffiony have appeared in our columns in the past
year. It is a remarkable hybrid Tree Paeony,
raised by MM. V. Lemoine et Fils, Nancy. It is
said to have originated from the crossing of P.
Moutan w^th P. lutea. The bloom is globular in
form, very full and double, and of a buff tone passing
to golden yellow. When shown before the Royal
Horticultural Society by Messrs. J. Piper and
Sons, Bayswater, a few weeks ago it gained the

THE GOLDEN TREE P.'EONY, P.liONIA ARBOREA LA LORRAINE, .\
NEW VARIETY WITH YELLOW FLOWERS.

New Zealand Spinach. — The Spniaih crop is
a very important one. In some light soils, however,
cultivators often find it difficult to grow the ordinary
round-seeded variety — the Summer Spinach —
after the middle of June. The large, succulent
leaves, so much coveted, cannot be obtained,
as the plants will run to seed prematurely. There
is no danger of this kind in the case of the
New Zealand Spinach. A well-grown single plant
will cover a space of 50 square feet in a very short
time, and such a specimen will bear many pecks
of fine fleshy leaves. In fairly light soils there
is no difficulty in getting the yoimg plants to
make good growth at this season ; but in heavy,
clayey loam thev are rather sttdiborn in this
respect. However, the cultivator should not

hesitate Id sow seeds now. The l.itter must be
sown in drills about si.N feel .q.art, tlic drills being
4 feet asunder. Place a snuall quantity of lighter
soil where the seeds are to be sowii, and drop about
half-a-dozen seeds, several inches apart, in it,
lightly covering them, and, in the absence of rain,
give water b. Iiastcn germination.

Beet In Heavy Soils.— Many cultivators make
the mistake of sowing seeds of this vegetable too
early. The resultant plants grow very slowly,
of course, and then the roots are tough, lacking in
juice and in colcjur when cooked. In warm soils
seeds for the main crop may he sown late in April
or early in May. Splendid roots will then result.
In clayey soils the middle of May is soon
enough to sow, but I should not hesitate to m^ke
a sowing about the middle to the end of Jtme.
In a clayey hiam germination
of seeds is then fairly rapid, and
the roots, though small, are of
very high quality, being well
coloured, exceedingly tender .and
full of juice. If the weather and
ground are both dry, pour plenty
of water in the open drills;
tlieii --ow the seeds and cover
them with dry loam. This plan
will induce quick germination.

Broad Beans. — Lovers of this
\-egel.ibh — and they are legion- — •
will in>t be averse to sowing
seeds late in the season. Usually,
one finds many rows of the
plants growing apace in the spring.
Some are spoiled through black
•iphides, .and the pods of others
are never gathered because there
liappens to be a glut. Too many
seeds are sown at once, early in
the year, and then, because there
are Dwarf and Runner Beans and
Peas in plenty, the Broad Bean
is neglected. Now, a good
variety of vegetables is always
welcome, and in a dry season,
when Peas often do badly,
tlie Broad Bean will thrive and
pod freely if grown on the
north side of a wall or fence,
.ind, moreover, in a clayey soil.
Cultivators who have never
tried this plan would be sur-
prised at the satisfactory
result. Seeds may be sown as
late as the latter part of June
and the early part of July.
Early varieties must be grown.
Two good ones are Beck's Green
Gem and Harlington Windsor.
When five iir six trusses of flowers have formed,
pinch off the top',, and so induce quick podding.

The Silver-Skinned Onion. — Undoubtedly this

is the best variety for pickling, but it is also a fine
one for pulling in a young st.ate for eating when in
that condition. Many persons like young Onions at
thinning-out-time, and the Silver-skinned variety
may be so used, as well as for pickling purposes.
Do not sow in rich soil. A good loam without
manure will do. A very poor soil manured last
spring or earlier in the winter will also answer the
purpose. The l>ulb5 will grow almost one on the
top of another, so that the seeds may be sown
fairly thickly, and, with the exception of drawing
out for eating while yoimg, thinning is not
necessary. G. G.

Supplement to THE GARDEN, June jtli, 191 3.

A New Californian Tree Poppy : Romneya Trichocalyx.

Hudson <? Kearns, Ltd., Printers, London, S.E.

June 7, 19^3.]

THE GARDEN.

29S

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

THE STAKING OF SOME HERBACEOUS PLANTS.

THE staking of plants is an important
operation in the successful managc-
niint of a garden, be it small or large,
imder glass, or in the open ground.
In eitlier case the two chief points to
bear in mind are the same, namely,
appropriateness and neatness. Over-staking is
imsightly and as undesirable as the want of a stake
is untidy and disastrous. At the same time, it
sliould be borne in mind that no plant ought to
be slaked that will stand safely without so doing,
tor the two simple reasons tliat it would V)e waste
of time and would produce a most unnatural result.
Indeed, what may be called gixid staking often
liegets the latter state, but yet it nmst be done
to sa\e the lives of growths and flowers.

This brings me to where I want to say that some
nt our herbaceous subjects are suitable for a more
.u'tistic method ot staking than that which is mostly
ju vogue. .\ glance at the illustration on this
I'.ige will show what is meant. It is a bed of
Delphiniums staked with branched, natural stakes
,is distinct from plain stakes, which are so commonly
used; and I think few, if any, will doubt tlie
more natural appe;u"ance of the plants as so
supported when they have grown sufticienllv '
to hide the stakes.

The latter may be put in pi)siliou at one opei .i-
tion or two, as most convenient to the operator
at the time the plants require tliem. For strong
and tall-growing plants like Delphiniums the twice-
staking practice is, I consider, the better. That
is, put short, twiggy pieces of support around the
rootstocks while they ;ire short in growth ; this
will ensure a more compact habit, and the stakes
will soon be lost to view in the upward growth
■ if the plants. As these first stakes are outgrown,
then the final ones are placed. Kor this purpose
strong, bushx' Pea-sticks trimmed into shape
«ill do splendidly, or loppings from the thinning
nut of trees will answer, the kind used in the
illustration happening to be winter primings of
ail old I'oplar tree. Whatever is used, it will be
found wise not to have the stakes of a uniform
height. Varying lengths of, say, 3 feet to 6 feet
will be found to fit into each other better when
being put in position, and these lengths will be
the measure of assistance needed by average
garden plants. Of course, sometimes a variety
will throw up extra long spikes, or an extraordinary
strong wind may prevail, in which cases resort
can be made to an additional long cane or two —
at any rate, that is how we meet such difficulties.
Although this form of bushy staking can be
adopted for isolated plants, it is when seen in beds
or large clumps of plants that it becomes most
telling. The spikes stand up more free and
graceful, because the general contour of the plants
has been better preserved throughout their develop-
ment than when bunched together with three or
four stakes, and this after some of the growths have
been allowed to fall about.

.\s mentioned above, there are ntluT plants of
the herbaceous border that can l)e so treated ;
in fact, will look much more effective if so done.
Some of the more important are Pyrethrums,
Papavers, Ceutaiireas, Michaelmas Daisies (where
grown in large • Imups or beds), P.eonies, b^rigeroiis,
Shirle\- Poppies and old plants of Carnations.

These and any other such growers may with
advantage to their general appearance be bush-
staked, remembering, as with all staking, the
work is easier if begun in the early stages of growth.
These lines will probably appear too late for this
year's practice on some of the subjects mentioned,
but a note can be made of the method for another
season by those with whom it finds favour.

C. TURXEK.

Tht' Gardens, Ken \'icw^ Hi^hgate, .V.

I'SU.VLLV tl

PARSLEY.

many Parsley plants are grown in a
uiven space, with the result that the leaves are not
as fine as they ought to be. Neither are they as
hardy. Small leaves and thin stems will not
withstand moisture in the atmosphere nor frost.

fully exposed to the scorching influence ot the sun's
rays. Plants of a permanent character, such as
.\zaleas and Deiitzias, which are to be retained
in their pots, require very careful treatment,
and they well repay it. Plunge the plants almost
to the rims of the pots in ashes, sand or ordinary
soil, putting a tile under each pot to ensure drainage
and prevent the ingress of earth-worms. Water
need not be given so frequently, and the soil in
each pot will be uniformly moist. If one side is
fully exposed to the sun's rays, the soil on that side
dries up quickly, and, in the case of peaty composts,
it very often remains dry, notwithstanding frequent
subsequent waterings. The result is that the
roots perish, the plants lose leaves wholesale, and
frequently they die. This is a good way to treat
Roses, Cienistas and S'lnilar plants in pots in the

-IKSVtJ^!'-'

.\ l;i;i) 01 DELl'HlMUMi WMH N.\TURAL SUTPORTS rL.\CED IX POSITION.

Strong ones will, and these are only obtained by
sowing the seeds thinly, early thinning out and the
pinchuig off of the young point of the plant towards
the end of August. The crop of Parsley for winter
and spring use is a very important one, and, to
ensure its success, two sowings of seeds are advisable,
one about the middle of June and the other the
middle of July. The seeds must be sown in shallow
drills on a border protected from the north and east
winds, but open to the south and west. Only use old,
rotted manure in the soil. Trench the latter 2 feet
deep (as Parsley roots deeply) and, before sowing
the seeds, tread down the soil firmly while it is
comparatively dry, if of a light nature. Thin out
the resultant seedlings quite early, and at the final
thinning leave the plants i foot apart ; then they
will grow stronglv

PLUNCINC; POTS IN SUMMERTIME

'ruiiki. arc Miaiu' plants in pots placed out of doors
at this season of the vear and allowed to remain

summer-time. It is important that the soil
around the roots be kept in a regular state of
moisture without much watering. B.

PLANTING DAHLIAS.

The first week in June is the accepted time for
planting Dahlias in the open. This work, how-
ever, like most other gardening operations, is
governed by circumstances, and it is never
advisable to work entirely by rule of thumb. The
ground in which Dahlias are to be planted should
haxe been selected and thoroughly trenched in
the winter, and again turned over and manured
in March. It is most important that the plants
should be well hardened off before planting out,
.111 1 this is best achieved by placing them in a
cool frame. If unable to put newly-purchased
plants in a frame, they may be planted out on
.irrival from the nursery. Under such circum-
stances it is advisable to cover the newly-pbinled
I jriivals at ni.uhl with pots or boxes.

294

THE GARf>EN.

[JUNE 7, I9I3.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.
Summer Bedding.— Ii is now safe to put uut

-ill the more tender plants, including Begonias
and Coleus, although it should be borne in mind
that a little shelter for a few days after planting
will assist the plants to become established.

Watering. — Even though the beds are moist
at the time of planting, a few days' siui or drying
wind causes a considerable strain on the plants,
and a good watering or two may be necessary to
keep them going till they root into the soil in the
beds. When once they are well rooted, too free
Ml application of water is apt to make such subjects
as Geraniums very sappy, which is detrimental
to their flowering freely.

Staking. — Tall-growing subjects, such as Fuchsias,
.\butilons and Helianthus. should be securely
staked at once, not leaving them till they have
been injured by the wind, and the less obtrusively
this can be done, the better it is for the appearance
of the garden generally.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Bulbs. — By this date Crocuses will have com-
menced to dry down, and, for the sake of tidiness,
patches where they are planted imder trees should
be mown over, using the scythe, following a few
days later with the machine. Early-fiowering
Narcissi also will soon be turning yellow, and the
same system of mowing may be adopted ; but it
is not wise to do this too early, or the bulbs will
suffer.

Sowing Biennials. — Sweet Williams, Canterbury
Bells, Anchusa and Delphiniums should now be
sown, and where the ground is heavy it is wise
to prepare a bed for them of old potting soil, or
they may be sown in boxes, to be pricked out in beds
as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle.

Violas for making a spring show should now
be sown, and where cuttings of named varieties
do not come through the winter well, these seedlings
are very useful, and make a really good show
during April, May and Jime.

Rock and Water Garden.

Now that some of the early spring plants, such
as Arabis, Aubrietia and Iberis, are going out of
flower, it may be advisable to trim these back
somewhat, sd that they do not get out of proportion
to the surrounding plants. Such subjects are
often planted in greater quantities on new rockeries
than it is desirable to have as a permanency, so
they must be either cut back or pulled up to allow
the proper development of the more choice and
permanent occupants of the rock garden.

Aubrietias. — The choicer varieties may be
propagated by taking off the soft-growing tips
and pricking them out in boxes or pots in the cold
frame, keeping the bright sun from them till they
hold up their heads well, by which time they will
probably be rooted. T\v<j' light varieties that
please me much are Lavender and Bridesmaid,
the flowers in each instance being large and the
habit of the plants good.

Plants Under Glass.

Humea elegans. — The inflorescences of this
decorative plant will be greatly enriched in colour
if the plants are stood out of doors hi a semi-
sheltered position ; but care must be taken with
the watering, as if once the plants are allowed
to get very dry, the foliage will turn yellow. The
seedling plants should now be ready for potting
off, giving them the benefit of an' intermediate
temperature till they are established, when they
may be removed to a cold frame for the summer
months.

Capsicums or Peppers. — These, if sown and pot-
ted off as advised in previous calendars, should now
be ready for their fruiting pots. For the smaller
ornamental varieties 6-iuch pots are quite large
enough, but for the larger edible varieties 8J-inch
pots are best. A good, rich soil should be used,
making it rather firm in the process of potting.
.\ fairly warm temperature will suit them best
for a time, using the syringe freely to keep down
insect pests.

The Vegetable Garden.

Peas.— -\liMiil this il.ili- .1 flood luliii ..[ laic
I'eas should be sown, selecting the varieties that

do best in the particular locality in which one
is situated. Gladstone and Autocrat are recog-
nised as two standard varieties, and on heavy soil
I have found the latter to do exceptionally well.

Early and Midseason Varieties that are
podcUng should, in the event of dry weather, have
a good soaking or two of manure-water, and on
very light soils a mulching of short manure, well
watered in. will greatly help them.

Fruits Under Glass.

Melons. — No time should be lost after the early
batch of fruit is cleared in getting a second crop
planted, giving the house a wash down and clearing
out most of the old soil ; this ensures a clean start,
and certainly a greater chance of success, if fresh
soil is given for each succeeding batch. When
planting at this season, a little shading may be
necessary for a few days ; but it should not be left
on longer than is necessary, as there is more difficulty
in setting the fruit when the growth is unduly
rapid and soft.

Hardy Fruits.

Strawberries. — The early batches on warm
borders are now showing colour, and protection
should be given from the birds. Wherever possible,
the nets should be raised high enough to walk
under, and thus save a lot of trouble when gathering
commences. Later batches in the open should
have the trusses slightly raised from the ground
by means of wires or strings running the length of
the rows. This is especially desirable on two year
and three year old plants, as, the fruits and foliage
being thicker, there is a greater tendency of the
fruit rotting during a spell of bad weather.

Raspberries coming into bloom will be benefited
by a good soaking or two of manure-water or a
light mulching of manure, giving the ground a
good hoeing first. Suckers taken off at this time
andj)lanted at once often make good canes by the
autumn, though care should be taken when lifting
to secure as much root with them as possible,
and this method of making fresh plantations T
consider preferable to planting matured canes
during the autumn and winter.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.
Propagating Pinks. — This work may now be
carried out. and is quite simple. Pull the young
shoot backwards, thereby securing a heel, although
this is not absolutely necessary ; trim off the lower
pair of leaves and make the cutting in the ordinary
way. Insert in boxes of sandy soil which has been
pressed firm, place in a close frame and shade
from bright sunshine till rooted.

Border Carnations. — ^These should now be

making vigorous growth, and will be benefited
liy a dressing of soot, after which run the hoe
through the bed or border. Attend to tying, or
if coil stakes are used, attend to training.

Bearded Irises. — Here we have a border devoted
to these attractive flowers, except that we have
a few plants, such as Marguerites, Hyacinthus
candicans and Chrysanthemums, dotted in among
them. I think they look best in a mass thus.
They will now be coming into bloom, and this
is a' good time to rename them, as in the case
of misplaced labels or obliterated writing, identifi-
cation is comparatively easy now.

The Rock Garden.
Planting Primulas. — There is now a great
variety of Primulas available for the rock garden,
and if watering is attended to there is no better
time for planting new stock or moving that already
in hand than just after the flowering period.
P. japonica, sikkimensis, rosea, Sieboldii and a few
others require moist conditi'ins, and must be
planted at the base, but those of the nivalis and
luarginata type prefer drier conditions. Good
yellow loam will suit any of them.

Polygala Chamaebuxus. — Let me strongly
recommend this beautiful little sub-shrub to those
who do not possess it. Its fragrant, Pe.i-like
flowers of cream and purpli-, linrni- in racmies.
last many weeks.

The Rose Garden.

Mildew. — The rosarian must ever be on Ihe
alert for this enemy. Sulphur is the enemy of
all fungi, and this in particular. Spraying witli
liver of sulphur will prove effectual.

Watering. — Being deep rooters, Roses once
established rarely require watering, except on very-
light soils. Spring-planted stock, however, require
close attention, and should be well watered if
drought sets in.

Plants Under Glass.

Seedling Begonias. — Seedling tuberous Begonias
that have been pricked off into pans or boxes
and seem to require potting up will do far better
if planted out in a frame in rich, flaky soil. Here
they will make rapid growth, and when they begin
to show flower they can be potted up into 4-inch
or 5-inch pots, in which they will make a good show
in the front of the conservatory stages during the
autumn.

Begonia semperflorens. — ihe popular winter-
flowering Begonias have put some of the older
species in the shade, but semperflorens and its
varieties, such as rosea multiflora and Fran Maria
Brandt, should not he overlooked. Spring-struck
plants will now be ready for potting up into 5-inch
pots. Loam, peat, leaf-mould and sand form
a compost that suits them.

Hard -Wooded Plants. — .Acacias, Cytisuses.
Epacrises, Deutzias and most hard-wooded plants
should now be stood out of doors for the summer,
and with the exception of Deutzias, which require
all the sun they can get, they are better shaded
from the midday sun. .Any necessary pruning
should now be attended to. Plants of Azalea
indica should be left in a little heat till the flower-
buds have been well formed.

Fruits Under Glass.

Pot Fruits. — These will now require close
attention hi the matter of watering, as trees often
require to be watered twice a day in hot weather.
Feeding should also be continued, seeing to it
that the food contains a fair amount of potash
and phosphates.

The Cape Gooseberry, or Physalis edulis,
finds favour with some families. It is easily grown,
succeeding well on the back wall of a vinery. It
can either be raised by seeds or cuttings. It is a
rapid grower.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Training Peaches. — Extra vigorous succession
shoots should be nailed in, while those that are
rather weakly may be allowed to grow at will
for some time. By such means the balance of
growth will be maintained.

Syringing. — Peach and Nectarine trees, and
all trees on walls planted last autumn or spring,
should be well syringed in the afternoon during
hot weather. If green fly is present, put some
XL All Liquid Insecticide into the water.

Watering. — Wall trees, especially those on south
walls, must be watered at the root if the border
becomes dry, and as the temperature of the soil
will be pretty high, the water should be slightly
warmed prior to its being applied.

The Vegetable Garden.

Early Cauliflowers. — These will be turning in
for use ill the course of a week or so, and if they
turn in rather rapidly, they can bo lifted and laid
in behind a north wall, or cut and their bases
stood in flat vessels containing a few inches of
water, to be stood in a cool house or shed. If
clubbing appears, water with a little nitrate of
soda or with common saltpetre at the rate of
loz. t<) a gallon of water.

Broccoli. — It will pay to lift the young seedhngs
from the seed lines and prick them out 3 inches apart
in fine soil, leaving them there until it is time to
plant them out in their permanent quarters.

Broad Beans. — Draw some earth up to the
later sowings, and top early crops to facilitate
the filling of the pods.

Jerusalem Artichokes. — If not already done,
ease up the soil between the rows with the digging-
fork, and earth up in the same way as Potatoes
are earthed up.

Kidney Beans. — A late sowing should now be
made, and it will be advisable to use an early
variety, such as Ne Plus Ultra. Earth up the
earliest sowing when (< inches high.

Ch.ukmls CoMioKi.
Uroom/ie/d (,aide>is, IJuvidscii's Mains, Midlothian.

June 7, 1913.:

THE GARDEN.

295

NOTES ON TULIPS.

I FEAR I rather digressed last week in describ-
ing the striped (or broken) Tuhps, for I
did not confine myself altogether to those
varieties which were actually in the Chelsea
Show. I wish to remark that my selection
as there given must not be taken as including
all the very best. In passing on to the Darwin
and Cottage varieties, I feel I must comment on a
note that recently appeared in one of the gardening
weeklies, in which the writer rather scoffed at this
division, and said it was rather absurd, and that
both ought to be simply called late flowerers.
I franldy admit that there are a fair number of
the Cottage which are very much on the border-
land, and also that perhaps it is somewhat pedantic
to refuse to call any bizarre (such as Jaune d'Oiuf
and Clio) a Darwin. All the same, I hold that
these designations do mark off distinct types,
and that it is helpful and not harmful to retain
them. Some spring I hope to see the Royal
Horticultural Society holding a Tulip conference
with the co-operation of some of the best Dutch
authorities. The tangle of names is now very bad
indeed, and I feel sure any attempt to unravel it
would be greatly appreciated by amateurs and
traders alike. But to get to the immediate purpose
of these notes. I will commence with the Darwins.
Among those not very much known I singled out
the following : Louise de la Vallifere, a lovely rosy
pink, with a blue base — practically a self, large,
well-shaped bloom, much more of a pink than the
well-known Mr. Farncombe Sanders. Near to
It, on Messrs. James Veitch's stand, was a smaller
but quite as beautiful a flower, Pomona ; it was
still further removed from Mr. Farncombe Sanders
in the rose pink direction. It looked as if it had had
a thin wash of salmon colour all over it ; it had a
white base, edged blue, and on the three e.xterior
petals there was a deeper flame of the same tone.
The Bishop, a large flower of singular charm,
attracted, so the attendant told me, much attention
in Mr. C. Bourne's collection. I, personally, do not
wonder at it, for it is one of my own special favour-
ites among the purples, and is invariably singled
out by visitors to my garden. The interior of
the petals is a rich, glowing, true purple, while
externally one gets the impression of the same
colour seen through a thick grey veil. With age
the purple develops and takes on a decided blue
tone. The plant is tall, with a fine thick stem.
Julie Vinot (syn. Princess Elizabeth) is a pretty
shade of rose, which at the edges of the petals passes
away to a blush. It has a clear white base, and
IS of the flat-sided shape that is seen in Orange
King. It has the reputation of standing bad
weather well. Moralis was in nice condition in
Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons' gold medal group.
It is a clean-cut flower of deep rich plum, with a
decided " bloom " on the outside of the petals.
It is a tall grower; one of the be-st of the very
dark selfs. I was glad to renew my acquaintance
vnth the pretty rosy scarlet Sweetheart. It is
very nearly like Mr. Farncombe Sanders in shade,
but not such a large flower. Its special charm
and distinction consist in its beautiful pale blue
hase, %vhich is quite away from almost every other
\ariety. A flower which was new to me was
Prima Donna. I always call this type in my own
mind " edgers." Its three exterior petals have a
broad flame of rich rose red, which is edged with
warm flesh colour. In the early days of last
century there was a certain class of Tulips called
Baguets (see " The Florists' Directory," by James

Maddock, 1792), or drum-stick flowers. Prima
Dorma would have qualified for one of these, on
account of its stem, which is exceedingly rigid.
I spent a delightful hour or two on one of the morn-
ings of the show in the company of Mr. P. R. Barr,
going into the similarities and differences of some
of the rather-alike varieties. We found out,
what I had always suspected, that Massenet and
The Dove were one and the same thing. We
also took round some blooms of Pensfe Am^re
and compared them with those of La Tristesse
and Remembrance. While there is more red in
the composition of the former, we found the latter
very similar, only it had not such a clean look,
owing to its dull, smoky base and the duller edging
of the petals. These are three of the silvery
purples, a fourth being Ronald Gunn, a truly
magnificent example of the type. With the men-
tion of Nauticus my Darwin list must end. Its
first merit is that it is one of the less expensive
kind ; its second is its large size and pleasing
shape ; its third is its colour, which is rather a
nice shade of rose. It attracted my attention
when I was over in Holland this spring, and I was
glad to see it staged at Chelsea. It should be more
widely grown. It lasts well and is particularly
bright when first open.

Among the Cottage section I would call
special attention to Monument (syn. Panorama
or Friday). It is a fine bold flower of a good
shade of orange red, exceedingly effective when
planted near a good yellow, such as Mrs.
Moon or Parisian Yellow. A flower of much the
same tone of red is Lucifer. Here, however, the
three irmer petals are far more orange than red.
This, as it always does, gives it a lighter look
en masse. Its yellow base also tends to the same
end. Gondvink is the king of the yellowy brown
shades. Tall, of good proportion, free flowering,
it commands instant attention, and few, if any,
ever go round my garden without bestowing a
word of praise upon it. It is the largest, tallest
and most richly coloured of all the browny yellows.
During the first day Messrs. Barr and Sons dis-
played their beautiful Cassandra. It is an exceed-
ingly bright rose in colour, of medium size and
height, and, as I know by experience, one of the most
lasting of Tulips. It flowers on the early side.
I also saw a vase of Albion (syn. Ada). It is a
Tulip whose charms do not develop until it has
come to a certain age. But from that time onwards
it is a bloom of great refinement, pure white, with
a halo of pale mauve round the interior of the base.
In a room it must be placed below the level of the
eye to see its full beauty. Last year, when I was
honoured by a visit from the head of Messrs. Sutton
and Sons' bulb department, that gentleman picked
it out as one of the most pleasing in all my collection.

My final paragraph must be devoted to the
recrudescence of the old florist breeder in Holland.
.All the large trade gardens there have a quarter
where these are grown in collections. With some
of these we are more or less familiar — Goliath
(syn. Kingscourt and Cardinal Manning) is fairly
well known, and appeared under one name or the
other in several places. It is a curious blend of
mauve and rose, which changes to an almost pure
orange at the extreme edges of the petals. It
is a tall grower and an attractive flower. A goodly
proportion of those that are classed as Dutch (?)
breeders are purples or deep mauves. Some,
such as Bacchus, Mariana, Fabius and De
Zwyger, are very fine indeed ; but there — I am
off the line again. They were not at Chelsea,
and I must not describe them. Joseph Jacob.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

FLOWER GARDEN.

INJURY TO PHLOXES {I. H.).— The Phloxes are

attacked by the stem eelworra. Tylenchus devastatrix,
and it is this which is causing the mischief to the plants.
It would be well to remove and burn the affected shoots,
and sive the soil around a dressing of sulphate of potash
It is a difficult pest to eradicate when oncft it has gained
a footing, and we fear spraying will do very little indeed
in this direction.

LILY DISEASE (A. If .).— The Lilies are attacked by the
Lily disease, for which no cure is known. The diseased
shoots should be removed, for that will lessen the danger
of the bulbs being attacked, and at the same time we would
recommend you to remove the top layer of the soil to the
depth of 3 inches or so, replacing with fresh soil in which
some old mortar nibble has been mixed. The Lilies
should be in a place sheltered from winds, and as free as
possible from late frosts.

FRUIT GARDEN.

BLACK CURRANT AND GREEN FLY (£. i».).— Tin
Black Currant is attacked by aphis or green fly. Spray
with Quassia and soft soap as soon as you possibly can.
and in the evening.

PEAR-LEAF BLISTER (R. /I.).— The Pears are attacked
by the Pear-leaf blister mite, but if they are all as bad as
this wc cannot recommend the cutting off of affected
foliage, as we should do if the attack were a slight one.
Spraying in winter with a lime sulphur salt wash is the
best thing to do, and spraying now with a nicotine prepara-
tion may do some good.

PEACH-LEAF BLISTER (S. O.).— The Peach foliage is
attacked by Peach blister. It is due, in the first place,
to the presence of a fungus in the tissues. This fungus
lives through the winter in the shoots which were attacked
in the previous year, and it is therefore necessary to
remove these as soon as the attack is seen to commence.
At the same time the trees should be sprayed with
ammoniacal copper carbonate. Cold winds and damp
situations lay the plant open to attack more seriously
than if the external conditions are satisfactory. Every
care should be taken that the trees are protected as
thoroughly as possible from exposure to these contributory

KITCHEN GARDEN.

TOMATOES DISEASED {Salopian).~-The Tomatoes are
attacked by the fungus Fusarium. The spores of this
fungus inliabit the soil, and to avoid its attacks the best
method is to sterilise the soil by heat.

LETTUCE FOR EXAMINATION (f . B.).— The spots on
the Lettuce leaves are not due to the attack of any insect
or fungus, but to the accumulation of the reddish cell
sap, which you will see is distributed all over the leaves
in certain spots to a greater extent than usual. This is
probably a result of these portions of the leaves being
exposed to a lower temperature through winds catching
them, or something of that kind, than were the other
parts.

MISCELLANEOUS.

LARVa: TO NAME <E. 3/.). — Several grut)S had
evidently been enclosed, but only one remained, wit^ tne
broken parts of two others. The living one had killed and
eaten the others. It was the larva of a ground beetle
(Carabus), an extremely useful insect, as it devours others
that are noxious to plants.

- LARVffi FOR IDENTIFICATION (A. B.).— We found
only one of the grubs you mention and the mangled
remains of two others. These were all the larvie of
carnivorous ground beetles, which devour many foes of
garden plants, and are among the gardener's best friends.
Nearly all carnivorous insects are active and have large
jaws, while those that destroy garden plants are usually
sluggish and have small jaws.

""TO ERADICATE GARLIC (S. B.).— The only way to
clear ground of Garlic is to keep the Garlic hoed up as often
as it appears, never allowing the leaves or the flowers to
appear. By repeated cutting down in this way the plants
are gradually weakened and eventually , killed, it,
however, the leaves are allowed to develop, the bulbs are
fed, and there is the greatest difficulty in stamping the
weed out. It will probably take several years to clean
the ground thoroughly.

"names of PLANTS.— Bo6in Hood.— SmaU flowers of

TiSpa gesneriana spathulata. A. B.- 1, Cupressus

pisifera squarrosa ; 2, C. p. plumosa aurea ; 3, C. 'ayson-
lana ; 4, C. lawsoniana variety ; 5, C. 1. erecta-vmdis ; b,

Lithospermum prostratum. W. B. O.—l. baxitraga

csspitosa; 2, Silene pendula ; 3, Sedum spurium.— -
H. L. Crouch End.— 1, Pyrus torminalis( Wild Service) ; z.

Sequoia eigantea. i. B. W., Wells.— 1, Saxifraga mus-

coides; 2, S. decipiens Rhei ; 3, S. Geum; 4, b. umbrosa
punctata ; 5, S. Geum crenatum ; 6, S. rotundlfolia ; 7, &.

lindleyana; 8, S. Andrewsii a. G. O.—l, Saxifraga

trifurcata; 2, S. sponhemica , 3, S. coidifolia; 4, i.itno.
spermum prostratum ; 5. Saxifraga rofundiflioa ; 6,
Veronica Teucrium dubia ; 7 and 8, Phlox subulata variety

296

THE GARDEN.

[June 7, 1913.

SOC I ET I ES.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

There was a tloral display of unusual brilliance at tlie
fortnightly meeting of tlie above society, hold at Vincent
Square. Westminster, on Tuesday last. Hardy flowers,
such as Irises, Pyrethrums. Paeonies and Lupines, created
a gorgeous display of colour, equalled only by the banks
of Sweet Peas and Ubses arransed on all sides. Greenhouse
Howers were likewise well represented, Pelargoniums,
l''uchsias, Schizanthuses and Orchids being among the most
conspicuous.

Orchid Committee.

Present : J. G. Fowler. Esq. (chairman), Sir Harry J.
N'eitch, Messrs. J. S. Moss, J. W. Potter, Gurney Wilson,
K A. Uolfe, F. Sander, S. H. Low, F. Menteith Ogilvie,
.J. Charlesworth, J. Cypher, W. H. Hatcher, G. Hunter.
W. H. White, W. Bolton, R. B. White, de B. Crawshay,
S. W. Flory, A. Dye, J. E. Shill, T. Armstrong and C. H.
(.Curtis.

Following so soon after the great Sprmg Show, one
hardly expected to see such an extensive display of Orchids.

From Mr. H. S. Goodson, Fairlawn, Putney, came a
comprehensive collection of Cattleyas, Odontoglossums.
Miltonias and others in season. Among the gerns of the
collection were Odontoglossum amabile roseum. O.
lambeauianum and Cattleya oanhamianse. A number of
Cymbidiums and Oncidiums with long, arching sprays
of blooms were shown in the background. It was a highly
creditable group, admirably staged, and worthy of the
society's gold medal which it received.

Messrs. Charlesworth and Co. showed a little group
of choice Orchids, including Miltonia vexillaria Empress
Auguste Victoria, of a deep rosy pink colour. Silver
Banksian medal.

Messrs. J. Cypher and Sons, Cheltenham, showed the
delicate Oncidium pulchellum, with Dendrobiums and
Miltonias in variety. Silver Banksian medal.

Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Middlesex,
staged an admirable collection of Cattleya hybrids, also
Biilbophyllums. Dendrobiums and Odontiodas. Silver
Banksian medal.

A similar award was made to Mr. E. H. Davidson,
Twyford, for Odontoglossums and Cattleyas. A grand
plant of Odontoglossum Aireworthii Orchid Dene variety
was included, and trained an award of merit.

Messrs. Hassall and Co.. Southgate, had a fine array
of Oncidium serratum, together with such interesting
species as Odontoirlossum Uro-Skinneri, Aerides crispilabia
and Trichopilia backhousiana. Silver Banksian medal.

Messrs. William Baylor Hartland and Sons, Cork,
sent a fine lot of Odontoglossums and Cypripediums,
which looked none the worse for their journey across the
Irish Channel.

A number of Odontiodas, including the beautiful
Vuylstekeae and rosefleldense, were shown by Messrs.
Armstrong and Brown, Tunbridge Wells. Two fine
plants of the green-floweriug Ccelogyne pandurata and a
immber of Brasso-Cattleyas were also shown. Silver Flora
medal.

Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, had a fine lot of
Miltonias, of which Empress Auguste Victoria, with very
large rose pink flowers, was conspicuous. The deep yellow
uf Anguloa Clowesii lent a pleasing tone of colour among a
lirilliant array of Cattleyas and Masdevallias. Silver
Flora medal.

Fruit and Vegetable Committee.

Present: A. H. Pearson, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs.
J. Cheal, E. Beckett, H. Hooper, P. W. Tuckett, W.
Divers, C. G. A. Nix, J. Davis, A. R. Allan and A. Bullock.

The only exhibit before this committee was tliat of a
collection of Lettuce from Messrs. Carter and Co., Kaynes
Park, S.W. The Lettuce were all of the Cabbage variety,
and arranged in beds just as they might be growing in
frames or a border. The varieties shown were Holborn
Standard, Continuity, Victoria, Harbinger, Brown Dutch,
Marvel and Grand Admiral. Silver Banksian medal.

Floral Committee.

Present : H. B. May, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs. C. T.
Druery, J. Green, B. Crisp. T. Stevenson, C. Blick, W. A.
Bilney, II. C. Notcutt, J. W. Moorman, II. W. Wallace,
C. R" Fielder, J. W. Barr, E. A. Bowles, F. Page-
Roberts, J. Dickson, C. Dixon, J. Jennings, J. T. Bennett-
Poe, Charles E. Shea, W. Cuthbertson, W. P. Thomson,
E. H. Jenkins, W. J. James, E. Mawley, J. F. McLeod,
G. Paul, A. W. Watkins, W. B. Cranfield and R. Hooper
Pearson.

Messrs. Gunn and Sons, Olton. Warwick, displayed an
admirable lot of herbaceous Phloxes in distinctive colour
shades, showing these plants to perfection so far as this is
possible in the forced plant. Mauve Queen, Flora (white
and pale mauve), Frau Antoine Buchner (white). Elizabeth
Campbell (salmony pink), Le Mahdi (violet). Beauty of
Arden (lilac pink). G. Strohlein (fine scarlet) and General
Van Hentz (also scarlet).

Messrs. W. and J. Brown. Peterborough, had a small
group of GalUardias, Dianthus Napoleon III., Heucheras
and a^emi-double Rose of considerable promise.

Mr. C. W. Chantler, St. Mary Cray. Kent, set up a collec-
tion of Flag and other Irises, in which many good varieties
were seen.

Messrs. Artindale, Sheffield, had a sumptuous group of
Poppies, Pyrethrums, Eremuri and Lupines, the first-
named being particularly good and in variety.

Baker's, Wolverhampton, showed alpines on rockwork,
Dianthus Napoleon III., D. salmonea, Wahlenbergia
vincjeflora. Primula capitata and choice Saxifrages and
shrubs being noted.

Mr. Charles Blick, Hayes, Kent, staged border Carna-
tions in excellent form ; handsome flowers in many colours.
Cecilia (yellow, very fine). Salome (fancy heliotrope
variety, perhaps the best of its class). Skirmisher (buff
ground fancy), Dora Blick (the finest butf self extant), Mrs.
Warton (clear apricot self of distinct shade) and Elizabeth
Shittner (pale bulf self) were among the best in a grand lot.

Messrs. Reams bottom. King's County, Ireland, again
exhibited their fine strain of St. Brigid Anemones.

Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, had a small group of
Ivies, Acers, Olearias, Ceanothuses and other plants.
Nertera depressa was very charming.

Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent "Garden, had a group
rich in Flag Irises, Lupines, single Paeonies, Ranunculi,
Spanish Irises and other showy plants of the moment.
Lilium colchicum was very fine.

Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh, displayed Sweet
Peas and Antirrhinums, and for effect and garden display
the latter undoubtedly took the lead. Naturally, the
twain had been grown under glass, though the immediate
result of this is to show what is possible with these easily-
grown, easily-raised plants for the longest possible period.
Tliere is gracefulness and charm in these taller spires
of the Snapdragon that endow them with great decorative
value, and as the idea is unpatented, it may be copied by
all. White Queen, Yellow Queen, Defiance. White
Beauty, Cottage Maid, Amber Queen and Moonlight were
among the best,

Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Wisbech, had a pretty dis-
play of Sweet Peas, together with a larger, showier group of
late-flowering Tulips and Paeonies.

Messrs. W. J. Godfrey and Sons, Exmouth, had a showy
table of their art shades of Poppies in variety, also fancy
and Regal Pelargoniums. The latter are not frequently
shown, though they have an ornamental value of their
own in the conservatory at this season.

Messrs. Kelway. Langport, arranged quite a feast
of Pyrethrums, Paeonies, Lupines and Larkspurs, the two
former largely predominating. Of single Pyrethrums,
Ringdove and James Kelway were good. Of doubles.
Aphrodite is still without a peer among the whites, and
Lord Rosebery (crimson) is the equal of any we have seen
of this shade.

Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfield, showed Malmaison
and other Carnations in capital form, Lady Coventry,
Princess of Wales, Princess Juliana, Carola and Baroness
de Brienen being among the best.

Me.ssrs. J. Cheal and Sons, Crawley, showed cut Rhodo-
dendrons, Olearias and other shrubs.

Messrs. G. Jackman and Sons, Woking, staged Irises,
Lupines and other plants, their finest specimens being
Iris pallida Princess Beatrice and I. p. Leonidas, both
noble varieties.

Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, Dover, displayed some
good groups of herbaceous things, nothing more stately
or imposing perhaps that Iris Ricardii, which is of the
pallida set. Thalictrura Delavayi was very charming,
Geums Mr. J. Bradshaw and Mrs. Bradshaw being also
well shown.

Messrs. G. Paul and Sons, Cheshunt, had an interesting
gathering of single Roses, with such quaint things as
viridiflora and others.

Mr. Amos Perry, Enfield, had an extensive exhibit of
Irises and Poppies, together with Thalictrura aquilegi-
folium album, which was very fine. Of the Poppies,
which created quite a blaze of colour. Orange Queen,
Mrs. Perry, Perry's Unique (intense scarlet with deeply-
cut petals), Menelik (deepest crimson) and Crimped
Beauty were excellent. Ouosma echioides was also well
displayed.

With arching Fuchsias overhead, and Irises. Nemesias
and other flowers beneath. Messrs. James Veitch and
Sons, Limited, Chelsea, formed a perfect avenue of flowers.
The Gloxinias Veitch's Giant Strain were magnificent in
white, violet, blue and reds of many shades, spotted
varieties in abundance and others making a glorious dis-
play. The plants teemed with buds as well as with
giant flowers. Irises, Nemesias in variety, the pretty
white Gilia dichotoma and other plants in variety made
a brilliant show.

Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons, Colchester, had a fine
group of Rambler Roses^ — Hiawatha, Dorothy Perkins,
White Dorothy, American Pillar, Blush Rambler. Lady
Godiva (pink) and Sweet Pea (a single blush white variety
not yet in commerce).

Messrs. Piper, Barnes, showed many well-fiowered
Wistarias in white and mauve, a few plants of multijuga
being noted.

Araucaria excelsa Silver Star was well displayed in a
ground group by Messrs. Rochford, Turuford Hall
Nurseries, near Broxbourne. It is a prettily -marked
variety with white tips.

Mr. James Box, Lindfield, Sussex, had a capital show
of herbaceous plants. Poppies, Pyrethrums, double white
Rocket, Anemone sulphurea, Columbines, and a glorious
lot of Paeonia albiflora grandiflora (a pure wliite, delight-
fnlly fragrant flowered plant enriched by a tuft of yellow
anthers). It is a plant for everybody who gardens in the
open air.

Messrs. William Fells and Son, Hitchin, had an arrange-
ment of alpines on table rockwork. Primula cockburniana.
Achillea argentea. Phlox pilosa, Primula sikkimensis and
Onosraa taurica being among the best. Primula bulleyana
was also good.

The Misses Hopkins, Shepperton, showed many alpines
and herbaceous plants on tabling, Achillea Clavennae and
Primula sikkimensis being noted.

Messrs. Whitelegg and Page, Chislehurst, had good
masses of Heucheras, Geum Mrs. Bradshaw. Wahlenbergia
vincteflora, together with plants of Habranthus pratense.
The Heucheras were very fine, one brilliant-flowered
variety, Scarlet Seedling, calling for special remark.

Mr. Clarence Elliott, Stevenage, had one or two fine
masses on his rockwork exhibit. The finest thing was a
mantle of Campanula Stevensii. which must have contained
many hundreds of flowers. Myosotis rupicola and Arnica
montana. the latter not in very good form, were also
noted.

Messrs. Peed, West Norwood, showed Gloxinias of a very
good strain.

Carnations and Gladioli were well displayed by Mr.
J. D. Webster, Chichester, who also had a very handsome
vase of the yellow Calla Pentlandii.

Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited. Feltham, displayed a
group rich in Eremuri, Pseony, Iris, Lupine and other
showy things, while such pretty free-growing alpines as
Linaria pallida, Stachys Corsica, Aspemla hirta, Sedum
piiosum and alpine Phloxes were employed with con-
siderable freedom.

Baker's, Wolverhampton, had finely-flowered plants of
Primula Lissadell Hybrid. P. bulleyana and P. sikkimensis.

Messrs. R. W. Wallace and Co., Colchester, had a table
largely made up of Irises, of which Caterina, Kashmir
No. 1 and pallida dalmatica were three of the finest.
Eremuri, Lilies. Pentstemon utahensis (fine blue), Calo-
chorti and many other plants were shown.

Messrs. Bunyard. Maidstone, had a particularly showy
exhibit of Paeonies, Poppies, Pyrethrums. Lupines, Lilie.*.
Wahlenbergia vincseflora and a fine grouping of Irises.
A whole tableful of very showy plants.

Messrs. S. Bide and Sons, Farnham, had some three
dozen vases of Sweet Peas in the leading sorts, such varie-
ties as Edrom Beauty, Walter P. Wright (mauve) and
Melba showing good culture.

Messrs. Cutbush and Sons. Highgate, showed a fine lot
of Carnations and Rambler and other Roses, Joan of Arc,
a new white Polyantha, being most charming. Lilies]
Watsonias and hardy Cypripediums were also features of
a good group, and were well grown.

Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, displayed a
fine table of Ferns of a mixed character, Pteris, Adiantum.
Davallia, Polypodium, Gymnogrammes and the like.

Mr. Maurice Prichard, Christchurch, showed Pteonies,
Poppies. Primula bulleyana, Wahlenbergia vincseflora.
and good masses of Androsace lanuginosa Leichtlini
and Incarvillea grandiflora.

Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea,
displayed a magnificent lot of standard Fuchsia^, admirably
grown and flowered, above a groundwork of Calceolaria
Clibranii. Pans of the choicer Primulas, littoniana, the
new Excelsior, bulleyana. capitata, Mrs. R. V. Berkeley
and sikkimensis were all well shown.

Mr. A. G. Waley, Stone House, Reigate. Surrey (gardener.
Mr. M. A. Dobson), displayed a pyramid of Schizanthus
in great variety in admirably-grown plants. They were
magnificently flowered throughout.

From Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, came a superb
collection of Aquilegias of the long-spurred strain. The
colours included rich orange, pink and blue in a great
range of colour tones, all of which come true from seed.

H. J. Talbot, Esq., Little Gaddesden House, Berk-
hamsted, sent a group of Stock Beauty of Nice, a pink-
flowered variety. The plants shown were about three
feet in height and profusely flowered.

From Messrs. Carter Page and Co., London Wall, came
Violas, Pelargoniums and Dahlias in great variety.

Messrs. G. and W. H. Burch. Peterborough, showed Roses
in variety. Mrs. Foley Hobbs, a new sort, was shown in
great form.

Mr. H. Burnett, Guernsey, was represented by a mag-
nificent collection of up-to-date Carnations. The deep
crimson Carola was much admired.

Tuberous Begonias, Gloxinias and Aquilegias were the
features of a meritorious group staged by Mr. A. LI.
Gwillim, Sidcup, Kent.

A blaze of colour in Roses. Pelargoniums, Calceolarias
and Cannas was created by the display from Messrs
Cannell, Swanley, Kent.

Messrs. Thompson and Cliarman, 11, Adam Street,
.\delphi. AV.C, showed Lupines, Achillea rupestris. Cam-
panula punctata, and Viola gracilis among a host of
hardy flowers.

The greenhouse annual Statice Suworowi and variety
alba, together with new Azaleas, were shown by Messrs.
R. C. Notcutt of Woodbridge.

Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston. showed a collection of interesting
hardy plants, among which we observed Irises in variety
and Primula sikkimensis in quantity.

Floral Committee's Awards.

Silver-gilt Flora Medals. — To Messrs. Dobbie for Sweet
Peas and Antirrhinums ; and Messis. Veitch for Fuchsias.
Gloxinias, (tc.

Silver-gilt Banksian Medal. — To Messrs. Canncl).
Swanley, for Cannas and Pelargoniums.

Silver Flora Medals. — To Messrs. Bunyard for herbaceous
plants ; Mr. Burnett for Carnations ; Messrs. E. R. Cant
for pot Roses ; Messrs. Kelway for hardy plants ; A. G.
Waley, Esq., Reigate, for Schizanthus ; and Mr. Webster
Chichester, for Carnations.

Silver Banksian Medalt. — To Messrs. Bath for Tulip-
and Sweet Peas ; Mr. Box for herbaceous plants ; Messrs.
Burch, Peterborough, for Roses ; Messrs. Clark, Dovei.
for herbaceous plants ; Messrs. Cutbush for Roses ;
Messrs. Gunn for Phloxes ; Messrs. Jackman for herbaceous
plants ; Messrs. Low for Carnations ; Messrs. May for
choice Ferns ; Mr. Perry for Poppies and Irises ; Mr.
Reuthe for hardy plants ; Mr. Russell for shrubs ; Messrs.
Wallace for hardy plants ; and Mr. Blick for Carnations.

Bronze Flora Medals. — To Messrs. Barr for Irises and
Lupines ; Messrs. Godfrey for Poppies, »tc. ; Mr. Gwillim
for Gloxinias ; Messrs. tPiper for Wistarias, &c. ; Mr. M.
Prichard for hardy plants ; Messrs. Ware for alpines ;
and M. Drummond. Esq., Southampton, for Aquilegias.

GARDEN.

^,

..r^^^&=^^

No. 2169.— Vol. LXXVII.

June 14, 1913.

OONTBNTS.

Notes of the Week
coreespondenoe
Rose Lady Hilliog-

don

How to grow Viola

pedata

Does it pay to spray

Potatoes ? . . . .

Forthcoming event* . .

The 11ESI7LT OE OUK

eook g aed en

Competition . .
Rose Oaeden

Planting out Koses
under glass. .

A beautiful new

Rose

Tbees and Shbcbs

Some good woodland
effects

Rare shrubs and
trees at Aldenham
House

A beautiful Austra-
lian shrub . .
Flower Garden

Seasonable notes on
Carnations ..

Notes from Wisley

The Snapdragon and
its cultivation ..

299
299

299
299

300

300
301

Rock and Water Garden
Mossy Saxifragas for

massing
Primula p s e u d o -

silckimensis
Campanula pumiia

and its varieties

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

303
303

304

New and Rare
Plants 304

Gardening for Beginners
The Pear midge . . 305
Stove plants . . . . 305
Stmimer treatment
of Raspberries . . 305
Gardening of the Week
l"or Southern gar-
dens 306

For Northern gar-
dens 306

Greenhocse
Repotting Auriculas 307
Sou purification in

greenhouses . . 307
Propagating Arau-
caria excelsa . . 307
ANSWERS to Corre-
spondents
flower garden . . 307
Miscellaneous . . 308

Societies

308

II.I1UBT RATIONS.

A superb plant of Saxiiraga longifolia magnilica . . 298

A beautiful woodland scene 300

ElfBocarpus reticulatos 301

A carpet of Mossy Saxifrages 302

Primula pseudo-sikkimensis 303

The new Pfeonia arborea L'Esperance 304

The Pear midge 305

BDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every description of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor icelcom^ photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not he responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he toilt endeavour to return non-accepted
contribvtions.

As regards photographs, it payment be desired, the Editor
asks thai the price reqtiired for reprodwAion be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or oumer of the copyright will be treated uAth.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or lUerary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistock Street. Covent Garden. W.C.

The Long-Spurred Columbines. — Few hardy
flowers are capable of affording so much pleasure
as a well-grown colony of these beautiful plants.
Their long spurs, graceful poise and exquisite art
colour shades appeal to all, and if cut in a yoimg
state they will last several days in water. Although
it is generally assumed that these hybrid Colum-
bines are short-lived, this is not always so. When
visiting Messrs. Dobbie's trial grotmds at Mark's
Tey in Essex last week, we were interested to see
a large bed of plants that had been undisturbed
for at least ten years.

Berberis stenophylla as a Hedge Plant. —

This is one of the most ornamental of our hardy
flowering shrubs, and as it is evergreen it is a valu-
able plant, even when it is not in bloom. It is
of garden origin, the parents being Berberis
empetrifolia x B. Darwinii, both of which are
natives of Chili, .\part from its value as a shrub,
it is an excellent subject for forming a hedge,
either as a boimdary or as a screen. It should
be cut back to its shape as soon as the flowers are
over, and it wUl then send out good, strong growths,
which will give a wealth of blossom the following
spring.

A New Pedicularis. — The marsh-loving Louse-
wort (Pedicularis palustris), which is now flowering
profusely in many damp places of this cotmtry,
may find a rival in the new species, P. siphonantha.
This species has been collected by Mr. F. Kingdon
Ward in South-Eastem Thibet, where it grows
in damp, grassy meadows at an elevation of
11,000 feet. It has curiously-shaped flowers, red in
colour and borne close to the ground. It was one
of the new alpines shown in the Farrer Cup collection
by Messrs. Bees, Limited, at the Chelsea Show.

A Golden-leaved Oak.— In QuercuL rubra
aurea, the North American Golden Oak, we possess
a valuable tree for effective planting in the pleasure
groimds and park. Some of the so-called yellow-
leaved shrubs are little better than an unhealthy-
looking green-leaved tree, but this cannot be
said of the subject of this note. It is a rich
golden yellow in spring, the colour being most
effective with a backgrotmd of evergreens. By
the side of the Broad Walk at Kew a tree, about
twenty feet high, is most effectively placed with
a background of Corsican Pines (Pinus Laricio),
and in the foreground a large bed of Rhododendron
Lord Palmerston, or, as it is sometimes named,
Cynthia, with rosy crimson flowers.

Roses and Green Fly. — We do not remember
seeing Roses so badly infested with green fly or
aphis as they are this year, and judging by reports
received, the trouble is very widespread. Un-
doubtedly the best method of combating this pest
before the flowers are actually open is to spray
with any of the insecticides advertised in our pages.
When the blooms are open, however, they are apt
to become soiled by such treatment, thongh even

then it is better to sacrifice a few than to let the
pest get the upper hand. Where a good force of
water is available, a severe hosing will dislodge
larTe numbers of insects, and if repeated two or
three evenings in succession, will do much towards
cleansing the plants and cause no injury to the
open flowers.

When to Sow Wallflowers.— Although there is
considerable difference of opinion as to the best
time to sow Wallflowers, we think that for Southern
Counties there is no better period than early June.
Earlier-sown plants get too large, while those
raised much later do not have time to make speci-
mens sufficiently sturdy to withstand the fogs and
frosts of winter.

Cutting Back Aubrietias.— Now that the
flowers of these plants are going over, it will bi-
found advisable to cut off all the old flowering
shoots, as it gives the plant a more compact habit
and also encourages a quantity of new growths,,
which, when large enough, make excellent cuttings
for propagating. They should be placed in sandy
soil under a hand-light, and in this way a good
stock can be obtained, %vhich will be found of great
value next spring, either for massing in the rockery
or as a carpet for bulbs in the flower garden.
Another good method is to work some fine soil
among the old plants ; this will encourage new
roots, and the plants can be taken up in the autumn
and divided into good, well-rooted pieces.

Gloxinias for a Cool Greenhouse. — There is
a tendency on the part of many to regard Gloxinias
as stove plants, the result being that they are
grown much too warmly, and have, consequently.
a weak and drawn appearance. Added to this,
they are under such conditions more liable to
be attacked by insect pests than when they are
grown cooler and in a more robust fashion. How-
ever fine the flowers may be, they lose a good deal
of their beauty when they are associated with
loosely-disposed, thinly-textured leaves. So care-
fully is seed saved nowadays that it is quite the
exception to increase Gloxinias in any other way,
though not so very many years ago they were
largely propagated by means of leaf-cuttings.

The Tunnan Rhododendron. — The wealth of
Rhododendrons in the flora of China is yearly
being brought more prominently before us as the
plants raised from seeds collected by Mr. E. H.
Wilson reach the flowering stage. R. yunnanense
was first introduced to this cotmtry in 1894. This
was prior to Mr. Wilson's first journey, though
seeds of this species and the allied R. ambiguum,
R. harrovianum, R, benthamianum, R. concinnum
and R. siderophyllum were sent home by him from
China. The Yunnan Rhododendron is one of the
small-leaved evergreen section, freely branched,
and covered at the latter half of May mth Azalea-
like blossoms. These are white, with just a tinge
of mauve and the usual spotting. The bushy plants
grow to 3 feet or more in height, forming useful
subjects for beds or groups in a shrubbery border.

298

THE GARDEN.

[June 14, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is 1:0/ responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

How to Grow Ourisia COCCinea. — In reference
to the note by Mr. Arnott on page 275 of May 31
issue, I have some two year old plants which have
thriven and spread, and have given a great number
of blooms this year. They are planted immediately
over the ledge of what forms one of the cemented
divisions of my bog garden, over which the water
flows from the upper to the lower part. The soil
consists of peat, loam and leaf-mould, and is, of
course, continuously moist. — Frank R, Elgood,
Norlhwood, Middlesex.

Grouping for Colour. — However carefully we
may intend to make our garden colour-pictures,
sometimes the plants stray away and do it still
better by themselves. Such an example has
just occurred in the case of a piece of dry walling

room, for instance, sweet-scented flowers cannot
be endured, although the lovely colours and forms
can. I myself speak from a four months' ex-
perience of deliciously-scented flowers in my own
room. They had to be taken out from time to
time. I do agree with " Anne Amateur," however,
that those kinds of flowers, nattirally sweet-scented,
ought always to retain that characteristic. Fancy
Mignonette without any perfume ! — B.

Saxifraga longifolia magnifica. — Under this
name Mr. J. Grandfield, gardener to Sir Everard
Hambro, K.C.V.O., Hayes Place, Hayes, Kent,
exhibited on June 3 one of the noblest examples
of the Pyrenean Rockfoil seen in cultivation.
The specimen had been pot-grown, and not in the
whole of my experience have I seen anything so
handsome or so good. The great pyramidal
inflorescence was shapely and well framed, and,
I was pleased to note, had been permitted its
natural bent. The flowers, too, were almost twice
the size of those usually seen, pure and shapely

A SUPERB PLANT OF SAXIFRAGA LONGIFOLIA MAGNIFICA THAT WAS EXHIBITED AT
THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY S SHOW LAST WEEK.

facing nearly north. For a yard or two the spaces
are nearly filled with Saxifraga Cymbalaria. In
some of the lower joints Corydalis ochroleuca
has established itself, and Meconopsis cambrica is
in the lower joints and at the foot. It is true
that all these plants are in the same garden region,
hut nowhere are they so well arranged or so prettily
brought together as in this particular place, where
they have come of their own will. As a harmony
of full and tender yellow with fresh green foliage
it could hardly be better. — G. Jekyll.

A Plea for Perfume. — On page 275, issue
May 31, " Anne Amateur " has a very interesting
note on perfume in flowers. I once expressed my
regret that a certain flower lacked perfume. " If
it was sweet-scented," I said, " it would be per-
fect " ; this to a brother-gardener. I was much
.istonished to find that he did not agree with me.
He said, " If all flowers were sweet-scented, many
persons would have to discard numbers of them,
because everyone cannot endure the sweet scent —
often very sickly — of the blossoms." In a sick

withal. Obviously the plant was a veteran, as
witness its giant rosette of leaves ; and though a
few weeks hence the Hayes collection will know it
no more, seeds will be presently forthcoming,
from which useful stock can be raised. The
measurements of this fine plant, for which a cultural
commendation was given, were as follows : Length
of inflorescence from the top of the rosette, 2 feet,
its basal diameter being 16 inches at the same
point. The rosette of leaves had a diameter of
14 inches, the plant being grown in an 8-inch pan.
It is believed to be about fifteen years old. —
E. H. Jenkins.

Rose Lady Hilllngdon. — May I disagree with
your footnote on page 287, issue June 7 ? When
this Rose was first distributed I was of your opinion,
but I now think it is the best yellow Rose we have.
I have a bed of it in my own garden, which is
rank clay (my garden was a pottery two years
ago), and the blooms last season were a most
perfect colour, many of them being practically
upright. My opinion is that failures are largely

due to pruning. It is a Rose which should be cut
back very hard ; it then makes strong, sturdy wood.
My plants were seen by hundreds of people last
year, and they all agreed that it was one of the
best Roses in the garden. The first season we had
them in the open in the ntursery, X told Mr. Mount,
who distributed it, it was no use ; but I had to
alter my opinion and tell him last autunm that I
consider it far and away the best yellow Rose. —
William H. Cutbush, Highgate.

In your issue of June 7, page 287, you

say : " The drooping habit of this Rose is un-
doubtedly a great drawback, but this could be
tolerated if the colour were good. We have never
seen blooms of really good colour from outdoor
bushes in a fully-exposed situation." Had you
been in Duns last autumn and seen the Rose
referred to blooming in the open and in a fully-
exposed position, you could never have truthfully
penned the above, as Lady Hillingdon could have
been seen here with blooms of exquisite colour. —
James D. Lawrie, Duns.

Roses with Beautiful Stems and Foliage.— I

fully agree with the editorial note on this subject
on page 273 of May 31 issue. There are many
varieties of Roses which possess very beautiful
leaves and stems. 1 would add at least one variety
to the short list named, and that is Mme. Berard.
When well established in a suitable position, this
Rose flowers freely, and the buds and full-grown
blooms are very lovely. With me, however,
the plants never did flower well, but there was
some compensation — the leaves, especially the
young ones, were very rich, rivalling the autumn
tints of foliage of various kinds. For table decora-
tion the young tips of the shoots may be used to
great advantage. When so employed, the young
shoots must be cut off about twelve hours pre-
viously and wholly immersed in water in a very
cool room ; also wrap them in damp paper while
taking them to the show. They will remain fresh
for six hours. — Shamrock.

Aubrietias : What is a Novelty ?— Among the
novelties we are to expect next year, I note a new
Aubrietia, but I cannot think the description
of its colour is a recommendation. I have long
maintained that the dirty colours of many of these
most valuable rock plants render it almost necessary
to have a separate rock garden for each variety,
and the annoimcement that the new-comer is
described as a " curious smoky purple " is most
discouraging. Why not try the effect of a weak
solution of weed-killer ? Sometimes Nature
allows man great liberties with her colour-box,
but he has abused the privilege in the Aubrietias
and in some other flowers. I look in vain for
good clear colours or really pleasing shades.
Lavender is a beauty ; the trio, too much alike,
Mrs. Lloyd Edwards, Dr. Mules and Prichard's
At are lovely — but one has to be careful in placing
these tmcertain colours ; while Fire King, Leicht-
linii and a number of similar shades are impossible
neighbours to almost anything. I also have some
seedlings of a " smoky purple," but to my mind
they are " rogues." Of course, tastes differ,
but there seems to be an idea that any colour
variety is necessarily a " novelty," whereas a
novelty should be an advance in most, if not all,
ways. It has no claim simply because it is a new
shade, and a dingy shade too. Should such
very doubtful " novelties " be encouraged, and
should they ' receive awards from those in a
position to grant them ' — Ernest Ballard,
Colwall.

June i-t. 1913]

THE GARDEN.

299

How to Grow Viola pedata.— I" reading Mr.
.Vrnott's little article on Viola pedata in a
recent issue of The Garden, I was particularly
interested regarding the accepted opinion that
its successful culture is exceptionally rare. I
think it might perhaps interest you to know we
have Viola pedata growing here in a perfectly
liealthy and vigorous condition, and is at present
showing bloom. Its position is facing north,
between two buildings, being a sort of passage
where nothing in the way of shrubs would thrive.
It occurred to us to turn the place into a rockery —
which we did — planting, among other things,
roots of this charming Viola. I simply put them
in a bed of leaf-soil, loam and sand, and they have
been, and still are, a splendid success, not having
lost one plant. It seems rather extraordinary to
find them growing so freely and easily, for, as Mr.
.\rnott says, it is " a notoriously difficult
alpine to cultivate." — J. Stephenson, Sutton Hall,
Chesterfield.

Does It Pay to Spray Potatoes ? — In reference
to the note on page 225, issue May 10, I
imhesitatingly say, " Yes, it does, and the man
who does not spray is a loser in crop, soundness of
tuber and quahty." In this neighbourhood Potatoes
are largely grown, and those who spray twice
and sometimes thrice gain as much as five tons
per acre over those who do not spray at all. Apart
from preservuig the tubers iu a somid condition,
the haulm is kept in a growing state so much
longer ; hence the mcrease in crop. So few
persons who do not spray seem to grasp the advan-
tage of keeping the haulm growing for two months
lunger than otherwise would be the case when
disease seizes it. Last year I started on one side
uf my six-acre plot, doing one-third of it. For
some reason the remainder was done at intervals.
The difference in the sprayed and the unsprayed
portions was striking, especially from stage to
stage in the growth of the haulm. Spraying should
commence when the haulm is 6 inches high ; in
fact, directly earthing-up is complete, and should
be repeated once in the case of early and mid-
season sorts. In the case of late varieties, three
sprayings should be done. It is not the curing of
the disease that is attempted ; it is the prevention
that is the all-important point to study. When
liquid spraying is done, plots of one or two acres
can easily be done with a knapsack sprayer —
Hartjen's " Holder " Pneumatic, for example —
as with the ordinary lances and nozzles att.ichcd
to this sprayer the work can be effectively done.
The under surface of the leaves and stems especially
are the all-important parts to thoroughly wet
with Strawsonite. Dry spraying is likely to
become more popular than liquid spraying where
large areas have to be done, as the saving in labour
— water-cart and mixing — is considerable. There
is one drawback, though, in this. Dry spraying
can only be done during a limited period, when
the haulm is damp from dew or light rain. In the
case of the former, very early attention is neces-
sary, a start having to be made as early as 3 a.m.
— E. M., Hants.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

June 17. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting
and Gladiolus Show. Lecture at 3 p.m. by
Professor G. Henslow on " The Evolution of
Plants and the Directivity of Life as Shown by
Vegetative Structures." Oxfordshire Kuyal Hurti-
cultural Society's Show.

June 18. — Yorkshire Gala (three days). Ruyal
Jersey Horticultural Show (two days).

RESULT OF OUR ROCK
GARDEN COMPETITION.

No fewer than seventy sets of photographs of rock
gardens were sent in for this competition, and,
after careful consideration, the judges have awarded
the first prize of five guineas, or a silver cup of
that value, to :

Mr. W. A. Cook,

The Gardens, Leonardslee,

Horsham, Sussex.

Second prize of two guineas, or books of that
value, to :

Mr. T. Matthews,

Brockhiu'st Gardens,

East Grinstead, Sussex.

Third prize of one guinea to :

Mr. A. Weiss.

Drynham, Oatlands Chase,

Weybridge.

The rock gardens of Mrs. Green, The Curragh,
County Kildare, Ireland ; Mr. W. E. Hawkins,
Longfords House Gardens, Minchinhampton,
Gloucestershire ; and Mrs. H. Scott, Cadeby,
Market Bosworth, are highly commended.

The photographs of the wiiming gardens, together
with descriptions of the same, will appear as early
as can be arranged. A number of the rock gardens
depicted in the photographs sent in showed serious
faults. In many instances they were arranged in
close proximity to the dwelling-house.while in others
dense trees were overhanging. In a few, rustic
pergolas had been introduced, and in one, at least,
weeping standard Brooms were planted. All
these features should be avoided where possible.
The placing of the rock, however, seems to be the
greatest stumbling-block, many of the examples
being minatural and quite unsuitable for plant-
life. We hope in the autumn to publish a series
of articles on rock garden construction, with
diagrams showing how the rock should be placed.
Owing to a clerical error, we regret that many of
the non-successful photographs were returned
without the intended letter of thanks, and we there-
fore take this opportiuiity of thanking all those
who entered the competition.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

PLANTING OUT ROSES UNDER
GLASS.

E.'^.CH year the demand for early Roses
increases, as evidenced by the huge
structures that are erected by some
of our leading commercial florists.
Now, it is good for the grower that
this is so, and doubtless he supplies
thousands of people with blooms who have
not the convenience whereby they could grow
their own. But yet there are numbers of
establishments in the country where it would
be possible to devote a house or houses to the
culture of indoor Roses ; and this article is
penned just as a reminder to some readers that
now is a good time to make a start. First of all,
place your order for young pot-grown plants
growing in 5-inch pots. These should be of the
current year's grafting, usually worked in January.
Preparing the Borders.— The next step would
be to prepare the borders inside. A nice light
span-roofed house running north to south would
be best, and should be well equipped with ventilating

gear on both the east and west sides of the roof.
Side ventilation will also be advisable. I would
prefer a house having a movable roof, or, better
still, one of the movable structures. Of course,
this cannot be arranged under such short notice,
but it might be possible for another year. Good
Rose soil is essential ; that is, a nice strong loam,
with plenty of good, well-rotted farmyard manure
worked into the subsoil. Let the soil be trenched
at least two feet deep, and some basic slag placed
in the lower spit at the rate of 6oz. to the square
yard.

Distance Apart to Plant. — Having prepared
the borders, about a fortnight should be given
them to settle down, and then the plants which
have arrived in the meantime may be set out
3 feet apart each way. This seems a lot of space
for a small plant to occupy, but in a year or so it
will be none too much. I have seen plants of
Niphetos, Bridesmaid and similar varieties of
about ten years old that have been 5 feet high and
3 feet to 4 feet through.

It does not matter if the house is a lofty one,
as many growers prefer that there should be plenty
of air. Cultural details, such as well spraying
in the mornings and afternoons of fine days,
together with careful root watering, must be given
attention, and a look-out kept for aphis and
mildew. Auto Shreds are one of the easiest
exterminators of green fly, and there £u:e plenty
of remedies for mildew.

Training the Plants. — Some of the plants
may need tying out to sticks, for it is important
that each leaf obtains all the sunlight it can get.
By the autumn the growth made will be amazing^
In the early stages of growth — indeed, until autumn
— the buds should be pinched off. If the soil is
lightly covered with some old hot-bed manure,
this will prevent too rapid evaporation ; conse-
quently, less water will be needed at the roots,
but, before applying it, it will be well just to lightly
loosen the surface. Free ventilation may be given
on the top ventilators, but keep the sides closed.
A moist, humid atmosphere is best for quick growth.
Some good varieties to begin with are Sunburst,
Mrs. George Shawyer, Richmond, Lady Hillingdon,
Liberty, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Souvenir de Gustave
Prat, MoUy Sharman Crawford, Mrs. Aaron Ward,
Lady Pirrie, Rose Queen and My Maryland. In
order to grow the long-stemmed, big-flowered
sorts, such as Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. John Laing,
Ulrich Brunner, Captain Hayward and Caroline
Testout, I would suggest a separate structure,
and in their case it would be best to put in open-
ground plants in the autumn and build a structure
over them after they have been established a
year.

A 15EAUTIFUL NEW ROSE.

One of the most charming novelties from New-
townards is Carine. I do not know any Rose
that has pleased me more, and to attempt a descrip-
tion of its lovely tints is all that I can do. There
are present orange carmine, blush buff, creamy
fawn and coppery salmon, all colours that attract
the eye ; but when the coppery salmon hue prevails,
as it frequently does, it is most delightful. The
form of bud is nearly as long as that of Mrs. Alfred
Tate; it is altogether a fuller Rose than this,
and will make a most cliarming coat-flower. The
growth is vigorous, erect and branching, and the
flowers are produced in great profusion. I con-
gratulate Messrs. Aiex. Dickson and Sons upon
raising this really delightful Rose, and predict a
great future for it. Danecroft.

300

THE GARDEN.

[June 14, 1913.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

M

SOME GOOD WOODLAND EFFECTS.

ANY very beautiful and pleasing effects
are possible in the woodland, wild
garden and pleasure grounds with
annuals and biennials. In such
places we must, first and foremost,
try to copy or imitate Nature as far
as possible by sowing or planting in a natural
manner. Formal planting will set up a jarring
note instead of appealing to the taste of those who
love the artistic and natural.

While seeds of Forget-me-nots, Fo.\gloves,
Honesty and the Giant Balsam flmpatiens Roylei)
may be scattered freely in any bare place where the
plants are likely to thrive, the positions for the
boldest groups should be chosen with care. Suitable

suburban garden where other plants which require
good cultivation will not thrive satisfactorily.
Tufts of Forget-me-not or Honesty may be grown in
bare places between shrubs, or associated with hardy
Ferns, which later, when the fronds develop fully,
will clothe the ground. Jime may see similar places
in the small garden gay with the purple and white
flowers of the Foxglove or the scarlet and black
Poppy, Papaver commutatum (P. umbrosum),
which flowers in Jmie from self-sovm seeds.

Though very careful cultivation and attention
are not necessary to obtain good results, a certain
amount of attention is desirable. Foxgloves,
Honesty, Forget-me-nots, Poppies, Impatiens
Roylei and Mimulus luteus all shed their seeds
and come up freely in the autumn or following
spring ; but weeds also grow just as freely, and
must be kept down and prevented from seeding.
The ground, however, neither of necessity nor to

of Foxglove or Myosotis instead of grass, and then,
after a year or two, if not thought desirable to
be continued, allowed to lapse and become part of
the woodland grass.

To obtain material to extend this style of garden-
ing, seeds may be sown where they are to flower,
or there is usually plenty of yoimg plants in the
existing groups which may be transplanted from
autumn to spring. In forming these masses or
stretches of flowers, avoid any formal lines and
curves. Let them naturally coincide with, or fit
in with, the surrounding trees and shrubs and the
he of the ground, taking every advantage of sloping
or hollow ground. A. O.

A BEAUTIFUL WOODLAND SCENE : FORGET-ME-NOTS WITH A BACKGROUND OF DARK CONIFERS

surroundings are essential, and another very
important pomt is the effect at a distance. The
accompanying illustration, for instance, depicts
the beautiful blue Forget-me-not, Myosotis alpes-
tris, growing on the side of a slope where it can be
seen a long way off. Looking out from the upper
windows of a dwelling-house and seeing an effect
such as this, perhaps some distance off, across the
lawn on the edge of the woodland, when the blinds
are drawn up on a May morning, must command
admiration.

In a somewhat similar manner masses of such
things appeal to most visitors to public parks
and gardens. Though such effects as that depicted
in the illustration are only possible in gardens of
considerable size, both Foxgloves, Honesty and
Forget-me-nots can be effectively used in the
shrubbery borders and other comers of the small

destroy the natural character of the planting, needs
to be kept as rigidly clean and free from weeds as
the flower-beds and herbaceous borders. The
young plants, in many instances, may come up
irregularly, necessitating thinning, though this
should not be done too rigidly and evenly, or the
plants, when in flower, may resemble a well-kept
bed, instead of apparently a stretch of natiural wild
flowers. For these large patches it is as well to
dig over the groimd and, if poor, manure it in the
first instance previous to sowing. It is also worth
while every third or fourth year lifting the seed-
lings in autumn, digging the ground and replanting.
In addition to what may be termed the large
permanent patches, a few supplementary patches
crop up from time to time. For instance, when
clearing out old shrubs or cutting down trees in
the woods, the bare ground may be sown with seeds

RARE SHRUBS AND TREES AT
ALDENHAM HOUSE.

In a recent walk round the gardens at Aldenham
House witJi llie Hon. Vicary Gibbs and his accom-
plished head-gardener, I saw several
interesting shrubs in full beauty. I
was particularly struck with the mag-
nificent Cherry (Prunus Pseudo-
cerasus) Shirofugen, which was per-
fectly charming with its long,
horizontal branches laden with huge
double, blush-coloured flowers. This
variety blooms more freely, if any-
thing, than James H. Veitch, and the
flowers are larger ; the colour is
several tones lighter.

Another magnificent object was
that glorious Sycamore, Acer Pseudo-
platanus Prinz Handjery, a young
standard tree of which was exquisite
m its eai'ly garb of bronzy salmon,
that shone with a burnished lustre
in the spring sun. Prunus Rhexii
llore pleno, laden with its double
white rosettes, was very beautiful.
Kubus deliciosus, here grown as an
'jpen bush and pruned hard after
flowering, has large pure white flowers,
like great single Roses, and, though
common, is one of the most chastely
beautiful plants in the whole collec-
tion. A splendid plant of Pittosporum
tenuifolium, much at home on the
dense clay, is an object-lesson to
those who doubt the hardiness of the
genus. I have not heard of this
species in the famous collection at
Castlewellan. The small flowers are
almost black.

Of the numerous Japanese Quinces,
Pyrus japonica Simonii and Maulei
perfecta were two of the best ; the
former has magnificent colour — a rich blood
crimson. The Purple Nut (Corylus maxima
atropurpurea), with its dense mass of burnished
purple foliage, is a splendid foil for Acer Negundo
variegatum and other light-leaved subjects. The
Nut is cut hard down every three years.

The names of interesting things beautiful in
flower or foliage would make a long list. Cotone-
aster Dammeri, a grand rock creeper ; C. multi-
flora and many others; Ribes laurifolium, R.
speciosum, R. leptantha (evergreen) and others ;
Stranvaesia undulata, a host of Barberries, the
lovely E.xochorda Giraldii, Spiraea laevigata,
resembling the Spurge Laurel ; the silvery Pyrus
salicifolia pendula, the golden P. Aria chryso-
phylla, the large-leaved Prunus Avium decumana,
the graceful Prunus Padus Albertii, with long,
white lilac-like spikes ; the dwarf pumila and the

JiiN'i- 14. I0I3-]

THE GARDEN.

301

variable P. Pissardii Hessei ; that fine Beech, Fagus
sylvatica Sweet Magnet ; the Chestnuts, iCsculus
planti^rensis, indica and turbinata ; Lonicera
Heckrattii, not yet in bloom ; the winged Euony-
mus, E. alatus, which is rose-tinted in autumn ;
Drimys Winteri, with its large oval leaf and brown
stem ; Nothofagus obliqua (the Chilian Pine),
Fraxinus Mariesii, which Mr. Vicary Gibbs con-
siders to be the best of the Ornus type ; Robinias
crispa and tortuosa, varieties of Pseudacacia —
all these were well represented. Add to them such
uncommon things as Stephanandra Tanalice,
Coriaria japonica, Ligustrums Weidam, tricolor
and coriaceum. Viburnum Carlesii, Castanopis
chrysophylla, Shepherdia argentea, Broussonetia
papyTifera cucullata, Syringa Emodii, Veronica
canterburyana, Corylus avellana
aurea, Acer campestre Schwerini'
Ilex cornuta and I. dipyTena.
Bupleurum fruticosum, Baccharis
patagonica and Crataego-mespilus
Dardari (a graft hybrid), and an
idea is gained of the interest,
variety and beauty of the collection.
One cannot fail to be struck
by the splendid culture and skilful
grouping, nor by the complete
mastery which the Hon. Vicary
Gibbs displays of his many acres
of beautiful and rare shrubs and
trees. W. P. W

A BEAUTIFUL AUSTRA-
LIAN SHRUB.

(ELjEOCARPUS reticulatus.)

It is well over a hundred
years ago since Eteocarpus reticu-
latus was introduced from Aus-
tralia. It was then known as E.
cyaneus, by which name it is still
often referred to. At the time
when hard-wooded plants of
.\ustralia were at their height of
popularity in this coimtry, E.
reticulatus was one of the most
widely cultivated. To-day it is
rarely seen, although by virtue
of its delicately-fringed white
flowers it is worthy of far wider
cultivation as a greenhouse
shrub. If given sufficient room,
it is a plant that will attain a
height of from 12 feet to 15
feet, but it is a simple matter
to have plants in full flower
although only as many inches
in height. For instance, the
illustration, which so well

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON CAR-
NATIONS.

HE month of July brings a plethora
of beauty in the garden, for it is
then that the Roses, the Carnations
and the Sweet Peas reach the
summit of their beauty, and it is
a time that must be prepared for
in advance. To secure the utmost delight from
the occupants of the garden, they must be
so well managed that they grow to perfection,
and no plants will do this when they are neglected
or if it is thought that necessary attention can be

T

EL.EOCARPUS RETICULATUS, AN AUSTRALIAN SHRUB WITH BEAUTI-
FULLY FRINGED WHITE FLOWERS.

presence is generally easily discernible, whereas the
thrips hide themselves cleverly, and in the absence
of diligent search may do irreparable injury.
For the green fly there are many excellent washes
advertised in The Garden, or soft soap and
Quassia wash may be prepared at home. One
dressing may not suffice, but two or three will
put things straight. For thrips Abol is reliable,
prepared according to the makers' clear instruc-
tions, but the enemy should also be sought for
and immediately killed.

Hoeing and Mulching. — When either of these
operations is decided upon, the grower has one
chief idea in his mind — he desires to keep the soil
cool and moist. By hoeing alone the moisture
may be conserved in the soil to a pronoimced
extent ; but when the hoeing is
supplemented by mulching, the
end in view is attained, and, at
the same time, food that will
undoubtedly be appreciated is pro-
vided for the plants. For these
reasons hoeing ought to be done,
and afterwards a covering of
manure should be spread over the
whole surface. If the appearance
of it is strenuously objected tu,
spread above it a thin coating of
the finest mould, but for preference
leave it exposed to the air.

Disbudding.— Carnations grown
purely and simply for the adorn-
ment of the garden and for cutting
are not always disbudded, but this
can only be regarded as an error ol
judgment. When a plant is pro-
ducing so many blossom-buds that
it is impossible for any of them to
develop in perfection, reduction
must be the rule, because a flower
that is not perfect cannot ade-
quately fulfil its mission. It is
affirmed by some people that dis-
budding is contrary to Nature, and
they will not have recourse to it ;
but this is a poor argument, since
if it were followed out to its logical
conclusion we should see no im-
provements upon Nature's admir-
able handiwork. By all means reduce
the number of buds on a stem ac-
cording to judgment or fancy, and
do not permit all to remain when the
plant obviously lacks the power to
finish them. For individual exhibi-
tion blooms the reduction is carried
to the crown bud, but for home ser-
vice two or three buds can always
be desirably retained, and the
results will be more pleasing.
Flower-Stems. — We must also give careful

depicts the character of the

fringed, bell-like flowers, represents an entire plant given at any time or any moment. The successful
that has been knocked out of a 3-inch pot for the , gardener looks far ahead, and this month he will consideration to the flower-stems, which are not
purpose of photographing. The value of these be laying the final foimdation for the glories of usually strong enough to carry their flowers in a
little plants — easily procured from cuttings — can July among the flowers. favourable position. Here there is not the slightest

hardly be over-estimated. For table decoration Insect Enemies. — The enthusiast in Carnation doubt that Nature must be followed, and the
and for conservatory work, especially where small culture rests happy in the knowledge that his method of placing a stick in each pot and drawing
plants are required as edgings to groups, sucli favourites of the bed and border are not particu- •''I' stems in a mass roimd it is strongly to be
plants are invaluable. The cuttings, it should be larly prone to the attacks of many insect pests, condemned, because by so doing the attractive
explained, are made from the ripened shoots but those which give the plants attention will | habit of the plant is entirely destroyed. One
with leaves intact, and placed in sandy soil with quickly do harm unless they are suppressed. A stick, one plant, is by no means a bad rule, but there

persistent look-out ought to be maintained now must be no bunching ; on the contrary, each stem
for the visitations of green fly and thrips. The , shoidd be in a separate strand of tying inaterial
first named increases more rapidly than the second j in such a manner that its grace may be appreciated
named ; but it is, all things considered, easier to ' and its flowers seen. Slender green sticks of
deal with and more readily discoverable. Its sufficient length to go deeply into the soil and so

bottom-heat. Propagation may also be effected
from seed if sown in a hot-bed. June and July
are the usual flowering months, and the beautifully-
fringed flowers arc followed by globose blue fruits,
or drupes as they are hotanicallv termed.

302

THE GARDEN.

[Junk 14, 1913,

secure a firm grip are excellent, while there are
special supports on the market for these plants.
From the one stick green bast or very soft green
string will provide ef&cient support.

NOTES FROM WISI.EV.

One can never visit the Royal Horticultural
Society's Gardens without learning some useful
lessons. Just now in the wilder part there are
two or three regions of special beauty, where
masses of perennial Lupines and Columbines are
happily grouped with a shrubby background.
Both kinds of plants are in many tints of purple,
pink, and white, the colours blending delightfully
not only with each other, but with those of the
Lilacs and Rhododendrons at the back. Both
the Lupines and Columbines seed so freely that a
large stock can easily be raised, and nothing can
be better for the decoration of any rough or other-
wise waste place, such as so often occurs on the
outskirts of a garden.

Tree Lupines are grown as standards with
large, shapely heads, a mass of bloom, on a trunk
about four feet high. With careful pruning
these standards are no doubt kept in good order
for several years, the pruning much prolonging
the life of this usually short-lived plant. G. J.

THE SNAPDRAGON AND
CULTIVATION.

ITS

The Antirrhmum, popularly known as the Snap-
dragon, is one of the few flowers which vfiW thrive
under almost any conditions, and often under the
most adverse. It will blossom in profusion on
the arid heights of the battlements of some old
castle or ruin, and will equally luxuriate in the
herbaceous border of a well-kept garden. That
such an accommodating and beautiful flower
should have evaded the notice of seedsmen for
so long is surprising ; but during the past few years
several of our leading growers, having seen its

A CARPET OF MOSSY SAXIFRAGES IN THE ROCK GARDEN.

Primula japonica, in great profusion by the
water-side and in cool, damp places under the
shade of Oaks, has broken into a number of tints,
from the type magenta crimson to a nearly pure
white. The type colour is to me, and to many,
an unpleasant one, and it is a pleasure to see that
in some of the later crimson seedlings the colour
is tending to a much better kind of red, such as
gives a hope of ultimate arrival at a good scarlet
crimson or blood red.

Rambler Roses. — An excellent way of growing
the strong rambling Roses is practised at the Royal
Horticultural Society's Gardens. Three stout
Larch poles, about eleven feet out of the ground,
are placed triangularly about two feet six inches
apart at the butt, and are brought together
at the top. Outside the foot of each pole a
Rose is planted. The three of the same kind
meeting above form a large and handsome Rose
pillar.

potentialities, have given it careful attention,
with the result that there are now on the market
some of the most magnificent varieties. This
flower is deservedly becoming popular, and for many
years to come will be in the forefront of the hardy
border flowers. Thanks, too, to the perfection
with which the several growers have carried out
the selecting of seed, it is almost needless to grow
named varieties, except for special purposes,
as the seedlings raised year by year are equally as
good, and of necessity grow more vigorously than
plants from cuttings.

Culture. — Antirrhinum seed should be sown in
cold frames or outside in summer, pricked off,
and then transplanted into permanent quarters
to flower the following season from May onwards ;
or a plan the writer prefers is to sow seed in pans
in a steady heat in February, transplant into frames
in April, gradually harden, and plant out into good,
rich soil in clumps i foot between plant and plant

about the end of May. The plants are in blossom
by August, often earlier, and flower away right
into late autumn. Moreover, the Antirrhinum
is not tender, and if left unpruned it will withstand
the winter and break into new growth in early
spring, carrying large masses nf flowers in May
the following year. In the hands of the raiser
it has proved its adaptability to various heights-,
and we have the same colours and forms in the
dwarf (Tom Thumb), the intermediate (nanum)
and the tall (majus) varieties. Thus the Antir-
rhinum lends itself to all manner of arrangement
in the hands of an artistic grower, and some
wonderful colour effects can be obtained by
judicious selection.

As a Greenhouse Plant. — For indoor work,
the greenhouse and conservatory the Antirrhinum
is equally useful. Given cool treatment through-
out and careful attention, magnificent spikes
can be obtained. It is absolutely essential that
the grower keeps the conservatory free of bees,
which would prove fatal to his
flowers. A house of Antirrhinums
thus protected will retain the lower
flowers until the whole spike is

■ xpanded. A few days ago it
was the writer's good fortune to
be in the neighbourhood of Mark's
Tey, and a visit was paid to the
seed farm of Messrs. Dobbie and
Co. Naturally, after the display
of Sweet Peas shown at Chelsea
at the recent show, one was
interested in Sweet Peas, but it
is no exaggeration to say that the
Sweet Peas were totally eclipsed
by the house of Antirrhinums,
some of which blossoms were to
lie shown at the Royal Horti-

■ ultural Society's Show on Tues-
ilay, June 3. Every form was
there. On one side was a batch
i>f Tom Thumb Dobbie's Brilliant,
rach in a 4j-inch pot, carrying
-IX spikes of superb flowers. Next to
It stood a batch of Dobbie's White
Beauty, without the slightest trace
cif yellow in it. A batch of
loccinea was a dazzling mass of
brightness, and the striped varieties

' gave every variation that the most

fastidious could wish, while Yellow
Queen was unsurpassed. Of the
majus variety. I measured plants
bearing three spikes with twenty-
eight expanded flowers and some twenty more
unopened to each spike, and the plants were almost
five feet in height. The length of the flowering spikes
varied from r8 inches to 24 inches. Cottage Maid,
Moonlight, coccinea, Crimson King and White
Queen were varieties specially strong and vigorous
in growth, carrying immense spikes of finely-
developed flowers. The bees had been rigidly
excluded from the house, and, although the lower
flowers were paler than the newly-opened blossoms,
yet the spikes were entire, and the whole display
of hundreds of pots of well-grown plants was a
grand triumph of the gardener's skill. Truly the
Snapdragon is a most accommodating garden
flower, but it is not generally known to what
good effect the Tom Thumb varieties may
grown in the rock garden. The Antirrhinum
has come to stay, and will reign as one of
the monarchs of free-flowering hardy plants for
n^anv years to come, S. W,

Junk i^, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

303

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

MOSSY SAMFRAGAS FOR MASSING.

r I HOWARDS the, end of May and in early

beautiful forms have been obtained. The red

colour in this section was first obtained by crossing

this and other kinds with S. muscoides variety atro-

I purpurea. Then by selection and continuous

seeding, such beautiful plants as S. d. variety grandi-

June one of the most effective features | flora, S. bathoniensis and S. sanguinea superba,

in a well-furnished rock garden ;ire all with red flowers, have been obtained. One of

the masses of various kinds of Mossy the first, and still imsurpassed for neatness of

Saxifragas covered with sheets of white
and rose coloured flowers. During the

rest of the year they form carpets and mounds of

emerald green foliage that are verj' attractive,

one of the loveliest features in the rock garden

during the past winter being a

sloping bank of the Dovedale Moss

(S. hypnoides), forming a close

and compact carpet. For a cool

and partly-shaded bank there is no

more useful plant than the Mossy

Saxifraga, for it is one of the easiest

plants to grow. They all like a light

rich soil and a position where

they will not get dry and be bunit

up in the summer. An ideal place

is on a northern slope that is not

too steep, where the plants them-
selves get the benefit of the sun

hut the ground is shaded and

cool. The Mossy kinds may be

propagated by dividing the plants

after they have done flowering,

taking care to keep some roots

with each piece. They should then

be planted in some shady border

where they can be well watered

for a time, till the plants begin

to form new roots. In the autumn

they will be ready for planting in

their permanent quarters for flower-
ing in spring. To obtain large,

unbroken masses, the plants should

be allowed to grow together, and

then remain undisturbed. Young

plants may also be produced from

seeds ; but as the Saxifragas so

freely hybridise, they cannot be

relied upon to come true. Cut-
tings during the summer months

is another method of increase.

These should be selected from the

young growths that are made after

the plant has finished flowering,

and should be inserted in sandy

soil in a close frame. The species

of Saxifragas are very numerous,

and many of them are very similar

in appearance. Those mentioned

here are some of the most dis-
tinct and useful for general

purposes.

S. Cffispitosa is one of the com-
monest Mossy kinds foimd in our
gardens, where it is grown imder many names. It
is foimd on some of our highest mountains, and
forms tufts of bright green foliage. It is a very
free grower, and produces its large white flowers
on branching stems some 8 inches or so high.

S. canaliculata, a native of Spain, belongs to
the dactyloides group, which have very distinct
divided foliage. It quickly grows into large tufts,
and produces its white flowers freely.

S. decipiens. — This is very closely allied to
S. caispitosa, and many of its forms cannot be
distinguished from that plant. Of it there are
numerous varieties, while, by hybridising, many

habit and brilliant colouring, is Guildford Seedling.
It forms a very compact carpet, and the bright
red flowers are on stalks only a few inches high.
S. exarata. — On page 302 a group of this

forms a fitting and charming groundwork for early
spring-flowering bulbs wlien they are in flower.
On a cool, shady bank it will form a close carpet,
covered with a mass of snow white flowers in spring.
p"or spring bedding or edgings for the front of the
herbaceous border it is excellent. There arc
numerous varieties of the Dovedale Moss, of which
the most compact are the varieties gemmifera and
Kingii. S. h. variegata is a prettily-variegated form.
S. maweana is one of the largest - flowering
kinds in this section, with distinct rosettes of
foliage. In some places, however, this plant

may he seen oa the right, with flowers so thicWy ' does not stand our winters well.

S. muscoides is a pretty dwarf
carpeting plant with yellowish
flowers. It forms a turf-like mass
of tiny rosettes that make a very
pleasing object in the winter. One
of the prettiest forms, and the
origin of all the colour varieties
that we have in our gardens be-
longing to this section is S. ni.
atropurpurea, a verj' dwarf, moss-
like plant, with rosy purple
flowers on stems about an inch or
two inches high. S. m. moschata
is a larger variety, with yellowish
white flowers.

S. pedemontana is one of the

stronger - growing kinds, with
rosettes of broader foliage. The
three-lobed leaves are very distinct
and bright green in colour, while
the white flowers are borne in-
freely-branched corymbs.

S. sponbemica is closely allied
to S. caespitosa, with more finely-
dis'ided leaves in smaller rosettes.
It is a quick grower, and seeds
itself freely about the rock garden.
S. trifurcata. — Probably one of
the most distinct kinds belonging
to the Mossy section, with rosettes
of three-parted leaves and white
flowers in elegant panicles. The
S t a g ' s - h o r n Rcckfoil (S. t .
ceratophylla) has rather more
divided leaves, much stiffer in
texture, and forming a firm
cushion of rather glaucous foliage.
It is an old inhabitant of our
gardens, having been in cultiva-
tion for over a century.

S. Wallace!. — This garden hybrid
has been confused with the Spanish
S. Camposii, but is more hairy and
of freer habit than that plcuit.
It is one of the most popular
plants for spring bedding, with
its freely-produced, large white
flowers, which possess a Hawthorn-
like scent. Very closely allied to
this, but with rather smaller flowers, is S. glau-
cescens, which is shown in the illustration on the
left. Both are excellent growers, easy to increase,
and of compact habit.

During the past few years many hybrids and seed-
lings of varying merit have been brought out. Some,
like Lady Deane, have very large flowers, but they
lack the refinement and elegant habit of many
of the wild types and selected varieties. W. 1.

PRIMULA PSEUDO-SIKKIMENSIS, A BOLD PL.\NT WITH PALE
YELLOW FLOWERS.

produced that they form a solid m;iss. The stems
are very thickly produced, and branch so freely
that there are several layers of flowers, one on the
top of the other. Individually, they are small and
white, commencing to flower early in May, and
continuing well through the month of Jime. A
square yard of this plant in flower is a remarkable
sight, and, like all the others during the rest of
the year, forms a cool green carpet of foliage.

S. hypnoides. — Of all the Mossy kinds, perhaps
the Dovedale Moss is the most popular. It may
be used in many ways and for many purposes.
Planted in small tufts some few inches apart, it

PRIMULA PSEUDO-SIKKIMENSIS.

Probably no Primula is worthy of greater admira-
tion than the graceful P. sikkimensis, or the

304

THE GARDEN.

[JuxF 14, I0I3-

Ilimal.iyau Cdwslip as it is sometimes aptly called.
II Is said to be the pride of all the Primulas of
the mountains of India, inhabiting wet, boggy
localities at an elevation of from 12,000 feet to
17,000 feet, and covering acres of ground with its
yellow, drooping flowers.

There is in the rock garden at Kew at the present
time a number of Primulas flowering so freely that
they cannot fail to attract the attention of visitors.
These plants bear the name of P. pseudo-sikkira-
ensis, but in what manner this plant differs
from the true sikkimensis it is not easy to define,
except that it is a native of China, stronger in
constitution and of more robust
colour and form of the flowers
are identical with those of P.
sikkimensis. The new-comer may
therefore be regarded as the Chinese
representative of the Himalayan
Cowslip. Probably the name
pseudo-sikkimensis will never be
in general use. The two forms
are so much alike that they will
doubtless both be called by the
same name, sikkimensis, which,
after all, seems the most satis-
factory plan, for without doubt
they are geographical forms of
the same species. It goes with-
out saying that the culture for
both is alike. Both are hardy
and love a deep, well-drained, but
moist soil and a shady place.
The leaves disappear in the winter,
and during the time that the plants
remain dormant they should not
be molested or overlooked. Pro-
pagation is effected by division
in spring or autumn, or by seed
sown as soon as it is ripe.

of C. pumila lack depth and not lightness of
colouring, and what I would like would be a
real dark purple blue, one of, say, the shade
of C. Hostii. As an edging, as well as for masses
on the rockery, C. pumila is such a lovely thing
in all its colours that we can hardly have too
much of it. S. Arnott.

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

AWARDS OP MERIT.

Papaver Perry's Unique. — A plant of moderate
habit. The ' growth and distinct. The colour is brilliant

CAMPANULA PUMILA
AND ITS VARIETIES.

To the general cultivator of rock
plants the differences between the
plants covered by such names as C.
pumila, C. pusilla, C. ca^spitosa, C.
cochliariaefolia and others seems to
be of an infinitesimal character, and
most of us are content to take the
plants as simply forms of C. pumila
or pusilla. With all deference to
authorities, for all garden purposes
the names may be taken as the
same. There are, however, differ-
ences in size of flower, and also in
shade of colour, among these little
flowers. I am confident, for example,
that there are two or three white
forms, differing mainly in size of
flower, better form of the bell, or
greater substance in the bloom. At one time one
was disposed to think that these were produced by
the character of the soil, but actual experiment
has made one think otherwise. My own old white
one has been in my possession for many years,
but it is inferior to one I got from Mr. Piatt's garden
at Hyning, and I came across another superior
form in a local garden recently. In the case of
the blues there are certainly differences in the size
and form of the blooms, as well as in the colour.
Opinions seem to vary as regards the shade of the
one called Miss Willmott, yet it appeals to some
of us. But the gre.Tter number of tlie blue varieties

THE NEW PiEONIA ARBOREA L ESPERANCK, A REMARKABLE
YELLOW FLOWERING VARIETY WITH A CRIMSON BASE.

crimson-scarlet, the black-blotched petals being
lacerated to nearly one-half their depth. From
Mr. Amos Perry, Enfield.

Stachys Corsica. — A pretty green carpeter of
the soil, preferably in cool and moist places. The
half-inch-high flowers are pure white, the plants
when in good condition being freely studded with
them. From Messrs. R. W. Wallace and Co.,
Colchester.

Paeonia arborea L'Esperance.^A remarkable

and beautiful addition to the Tree or Moutan
Paeonies, and a variety, when plentiful, destined
for great popularity. The flower is semi-double

and coloured a soft yellow, with a suspicion of buff,
the bases of the petals crimson ; there is a tuft
of golden \-ellow anthers. We regard it as an
acquisition. It gives us the impression of a semi-
double La Lorraine, which gained a first-class
certificate on May 14 last. From Messrs. Kelway
and Sons, Langport. See illustration.

Primula x Excelsior (P. cockburniana x P.
Unique). — The fact that this unique hybrid has
already proved itself both a true perennial and
quite hardy starts it on its career with a reputation
of its own. At the present time the new-comer
possesses all the vigour and free-flowering attributes
of a glorified P. Unique, and, with handsome
flowers of a brilliant crimson-
scarlet, needs little further to
commend it. A really first-class
plant and an acquisition. From
Messrs. James Veitch and Sons,
Limited, Chelsea.

Salix magniflca.— A plant as
much unlike a SaUx as it were
possible to be from the leaves
alone was shown by the Hon.
Vicary Gibbs, Elstree, under this
name. The leaves are broadly
ovate-acuminate, and are some
6 inches or 8 inches long and
3 inches to 4 inches broad. It
is a new Chinese species.

Potentilla Boule de Feu.—

Said to have been raised between
P. argyrophylla and P. atro-
sanguinea. The flowers, which
are coloured crimson-scarlet, are
about an inch across. The
foliage is silvery, after the
manner of the first-named
species. From Mr. H. Hemsley,
Crawley.

Iris gracilipes. — The flowers
of this pretty Japanese kind
are of palest mauve, with an
orange blotch, and in this and
their fimbriated character may
be likened to a miniature I.
tectorum. The grassy, arching
leaves are numerously produced,
though the plant has not so far
proved very floriferous. At the
same time, there is a frail and
delicate beauty about it which
all lovers of the genus admire.
From the Wargrave Plant Farm,
Twyford.

Delphinium Mrs. F. Brewster.

Only a solitary spike of this
was shown, and that not of
high excellence. The clear lilac
mauve flowers are, however, dis-
tinct, and of large size. Exhibited by Mr. R. C.
Notcutt, Woodbridge.

NEW ORCHIDS.

Awards of merit were granted to three new
Odontoglossum hybrids, viz., O. Aireworthii Orchid
Dene variety (crispum blotched form x lambeaui-
anum), from Mr. E. H. Davidson, Twyford ; O.
Lairessei (Edwardii x Cervantesii), from Sir Trevor
Lawrence ; and O. Neptune (crispum x nebulosum),
sent by M. H. Graire, Amiens.

The foregoing awards were made by ihe Royal
Horticultural Society on June 3.

June :4, 19:3.

THE GARDEN.

305

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

THE PEAR MIDGE.

THIS is one of the most troublesome pests
of the garden, and certainly one of the
most difficult to stamp out when once
it has established itself. The miscliief
is done at a time when it is impossible
to spray the tree with any hope of
destroying the insect without also injury to the
fruit and trees.

It is necessary to understand something of the
life-history of this pest before we can deal cfiec-
tively with it.

The female insect (Fig. i) is a minute creature
with great power of flight, whicli appears just as
the Pear trees are about to open
their flower-buds ; she pierces a
hole through the petals and lays
eggs to the number of ten or
more. I have frequently counted
twelve grubs in a fruit. These
grubs (Fig. 2) feed on the small
fruit, causing it to become
deformed. It will be at once
understood how useless it is to
spray trees with a hope of killing
these grubs without at the same
time destroying the young and
tender fruit also. Again, winter
ikessing and spraying do very
little, if any, good, as the grubs
bury themselves deeply in the
ground for some weeks before they
form a cocoon, in which state they
pass the winter. It was a long
time before I could understand
what was wrong with the Pear
trees in this garden. They flowered
and set fruit abundantly ; but
each year, towards the middle to
the end of June, most of the fruit
invariably fell from the trees. I
noticed, however, that these small
fruits were malformed, as in Fig. 3,
and on cutting some of these open
I discovered a quantity of small
yellow grubs, which had entirely
eaten away the middle of each
fruit, causing it to fall, and on
examining the fruits still left on
the trees I soon discovered those
affected, owing to the malformation
above mentioned. I then carefully examined
each fruit, and any which showed the least
deformity I at once gathered and buried.
The beginning of June is the best time to do this.
The trees affected should be examined each day
and the fruits gathered ; they should not be
allowed to fall from the tree, as the grubs will
leave the fruits as soon as they fall and bury
themselves in the soil, where they will be quite
safe from birds or other enemies.

I have seen spraying recommended as soon as
the flowering period is past. I believe this to be
useless. Several years I persevered with this,
using many kinds of insecticides, with no good
results. Hand picking is the only reliable measure
to adopt, and this should be persevered with daily
if this scoinrge is to be got rid of entirely. From
what I hear, it is certainly increasing in many parts

of England, and it is one of the most difiicult
insects to eradicate I ever encountered. I believe
some good may be done in winter by forking the
soil about the stem of the trees to a depth of
8 inches ; in this way some of the cocoons
may be destroj-ed. I am sorry to say that I
had no difficulty in finding material from which
to make the sketches. It would also seem that
certain varieties of Pears are attacked more freely
than others; Emile d'Heyst, Clapp's Favourite
and Doyenne du Comice seem to be special
favourites. No vegetation should be allowed to
grow near the trees, as this affords a hiding

cause them to deteriorate to an alarming extent.
The Allamanda, Stephanotis, Dipladenia, Clero-
dendron and Bougainvillea are all very beautiful
flowering plants, while the Crotou and Caladiura
are a pair of most beautiful, fine-foliagcd
kinds.

Well-Rooted Plants may be fed regularly now,
and those specimens growing in rather small pots
should have a surface mulch of good fibrous loam
(first soaking it for twelve hours in strong manure-
water), a small quantity of leaf-soil and some sharp
sand. This mixture may also be applied with
great benefit to plants growing in borders. All
well-rooted plants must be fed
freely with weak and frequent
doses of manure-water, and that in
addition to any surface mulch that
may be put on. Clear water must
be given twice, and in very hot
weather three times a day, to pre-
vent the loss of foliage, but the
cultivator must make sure that the
drainage is sound.

Overcrowding and Tying. — The
regular tying in of the shoots of
climbers — especially those of the
Stephanotis — is a very important
matter. The very weakly ones must
be cut out, and the others trained
thinly to the wires.

Shading and Ventilating.— If

the cultivator is experienced, he
will not do much shading, but the
novice should shade his fine-foliaged
plants a little to prevent the lovely
leaves being scorched. While the
weather is fine admit plenty of air
from early in the morning until four
o'clock in the afternoon, and when
closing the house syringe and damp
down freely. Sh.\mrock.

THE PE.\R MIDGE AT VARIOUS STAGES.

1. FuUy-developed fly. 2. Omb taken tram a truit. 3. Deformed Iruit.
inside the fruit. 5. A perfect fruit.

place for the grubs after leaving the fallen
fruit. .\. T.

STOVE PLANTS.

Many young gardeners and others who have
had no opportunity to gain experience about
the management of stove plants — those grown
in a rather high temperature and moist atmo-
sphere— are suddenly called upon to undertake a
charge including a number of such plants. In
the winter they are not very difficult to manage
if the requisite heat is maintained and watering
is not overdone. At the present time, however,
yoimg shoots are growing so freely and flowers i
are appearing in such profusion, while the richly-
coloured leaved kinds are making much progress,
that any neglect in regard to the plants may soon

4. Grubs

SUMMER TREATMENT OF
RASPBERRIES.

How very seldom is anythmg
more done to the Raspberry
plants in the summer-time except
to strip them of their luscious
fruits ! Generally, these plants yield
fruits freely, even when they receive very ordinary
treatment ; but if thfy are given the very
best treatment the fruits are finer individually,
of better flavour, and the crop is heavier.
At the present time the cultivator should
examine the plants and duly note those that ai'e
small and weak and not likely to be of service
next year. Remove all such forthwith. If left
they only cause overcrowding, blocking out both
sunshine and air from the stronger canes
which will be retained. Renew the half littery
mulch of manure now, and, directly the fruit is
gathered, do the final thinning out of surplus
canes. Too much stress cannot be laid upon
the importance of pruning after the fruit is
gathered. The work is rarely done before the
autumn or winter, and it is a very harmful and
unnecessary delay. B.

306

THE GARDEN.

[June 14, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Dahlias. — These shuuld now be planted, and
if in large beds on the lawn, care must be taken
in the selection of varieties and their various
heights. The dwarfer, stiff-stemmed varieties
are much the best for beds, and certainly many
of the Pompon and named singles are to be preferred
to the pendulous-flowered Cactus varieties. Staking
is very essential immediately after planting, though
for a week or two it may not be necessary to put
the permanent stakes m, especially if the plants
happen to be in a prominent position.

Rhododendrons and Azaleas. — These having

passed out of bloom, the seed-pods should be
carefully removed to concentrate the energy of
the plants on the yoiuig growing shoots as well
as for the sake of tidiness.

Planting Annuals. — A showery time should,
if possiljle, be selected for getting all annuals
planted out that have been raised in frames and
boxes, and good breadths of the various kinds for
cutting may with advantage be planted in the
kitchen garden, this being preferable to denuding
the borders in and about the pleasure grounds.

Sweet Peas. — These from early sowings are
nicely in bloom, and a little assistance may be
necessary in the form of liquid manure, or even
artificial, once a week to maintain them in vigorous
growth. On light soils a mulching of short manure
and leaf-soil will help to conserve the moisture,
while on ' soils of a heavier nature the hoe is one of
the best mediums. Sweet Peas for exhibition must
be kept regularly tied, and if the plants are not
so strong as desired, remove the flower-buds
for a little while, but not if they are intended
for early July shows, as it takes from fourteen
to twenty-one days for a bud to open after its
first appearance. Syringe overhead in the evenings
after very hot days.

The Rose Garden.

Watering.— Should the weatlier be at all dry,
a copious watering or two with liquid manure
will now greatly help Roses, giving the surface of
the soil a good hoeing over as soon as the water
has nicely soaked in.

Aphis at this season is especially troublesome,
and a good wash overhead with the hose once or
twice a week will help to keep it down. About
this date, also, the plants should have a good
spraying with an insecticide, for as soon as
the flower-buds commence to open they are liable
to injury, at least the outer petals maybe marked,
so an effort should be made to get the plants clean
before they become too forward.

Maiden Plants, both standards and dwarfs,
must be regularly tied to stakes to prevent them
being blown out, there being more danger now
that the foliage is gettmg heavier.

Plants Under Glass.

Annuals in Pots. — There arc several kinds of
aimuals, such as Asters, Stocks, Salpiglossis,
Larkspurs, Coreopsis, Statice, Alonsoa and Chry-
santhemums, that are very useful in pots, par-
ticularly where there is a big demand for pot plants
for the conservatory. These may now be lifted
from the beds in which they have been pricked
out, with nice balls of eoil, and potted singly in
4j-inch pots, or perhaps three in a 6-inch pot.
If placed in a frame and given a little shade
for a few days, they will soon get over the check,
and with very little trouble other than watering
they will make a nice display.

Salvias may now be potted into their flowering
pots and stood out on a nice open piece of ground.
Keep the shoots pinched fairly close till the plants
are of sufiicient dimensions. A little later in the
season the pots may be partly plunged in ashes.
This will lessen the watering somewhat, and con-
siderably increase the size and appearance of the
plants.

Hydrangeas. — Early batches of Hydrangeas
hat have been flowered in 4j-iuch pots should be
cut down to within 3 inches or 4 inches of the tops
of the pots and stood in an open position m frames
or other places, where they will soon break freely,
and if potted on, when the shoots are 3 inches or
4 inches long, into SJ-inch pots they will make

good plants with six to eight heads for next season,
and may be flowered very early.

The Kitchen Garden.

Early Celery will now be forward enough to
phmt in the trenches, or, in the case of that which
may be wanted for exhibition purposes, on the
flat with plenty of good short manure underneath
the plants. li they lift with good balls of soil
and are planted firmly, a good watering will be
sufficient to keep them going, though if the growth
flags badly, as it will sometimes if it is soft and
attenuated, a syringing or two for a few days may
be necessary to give the plants a good start.

Onions. — Keep the soil well moved with the
hf'C, and autumn-sown bulbs that are swelling
nicely may be assisted with a little artificial or a
good watering with liquid manure about every
two or three weeks. Thin the spring-sown Onions
as soon as large enough to handle properly, having
them from 4 inches to S inches apart, according
ti,» the size of bulbs required.

Tomatoes. — if not already planted, these should
be put out at once, and if the plants are a good size
the^' will soon grow away. A warm position is
essential, as also is good firm planting.

Brussels Sprouts and other Brassicas should
be planted out as opportunity occurs, choosing,
if possible, a showery time, when the plants need
a good deal less attention afterwards.

Chicory. — This should now be sown on a fairly
light and rich piece of ground in drills about
eighteen inches apart, thinning the plants to about
eight inches or ten inches apart when well through
the gromid, and, should the weather be showery,
while the plants are in a young state dust fre-
quently with soot to prevent the ravages of slugs.

Fruits Under Glass.

Ripe Grapes. — The houses in which ripe Grapes
are hanging must be freely ventilated, and only
suflicient moisture used in the houses to keep down
insect pests. To preserve the colour in black
Grapes it may be necessary to shade sliglitly, but
this only in the event of very hot weather.

Pot Peaches and Nectarines from which the

fruit has been gathered should be stood on an
ash-bed out of doors, giving sufficient room between
them to allow the free use of the syringe or garden
engine. A little straw or litter may be placed
among the pots to prevent them drying out.

Hardy Fruits.

Cherries. — A sharp look-out must be kept for fly
on the tips of the young growths, and, if in evidence,
the trees must be carefully sprayed. This opera-
tion may have to be repeated two or three times,
especially if the trees are badly infested, and
wherever possible give them a good wash down
with the liose in the morning after applying the
insecticide.

Pliuns also are subject to green fly, and the above
remarks apply equally well. Cordon and trained
trees may have the points of the growths removed,
thus checking the fly and helping the fruit at the
same time. Thomas Stevenson.

(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

IVoburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Cutting Over. — Under this heading I would
remind readers that many early-flowering subjects
have now ripened their foliage or flower-stems, and
these shouid be cut over, as tidiness should be the
order of the day. Such subjects include Snow-
drops, Crocuses, Narcissi in variety, Crown Im-
perials and Doronicums.

Watering. — Although not a believer in a too
frequent use of the watering-can, still, it has to be
brought into use at times, and if a drought sets in,
as it often does in Jrme, recently-planted subjects
especially may have to be artificially watered. If
necessary, attend to the work in the late afternoon,
and after the surface soil has dried sufficiently
run the Dutch hoe through it. Of spring-planted
subjects, Violas and Pansies are the most likely to
suffer from drought.

The Rock Garden.

Propagating Pinks. — The fragrance of many
species and varieties of the genus Dianthus

justifies the appellation of Divine Flower given to
It by the ancients, and some of the gems are to
be found in the rock garden, as instance D. alpinus,
D. caisius (Cheddar Pink), D, deltoides, D. neglectus
and p. superbus. Some can be raised from seed
readily, but all can be propagated by cuttings
at the present time. Prepare the cuttings or
pipings as you would border Pinks, and insert
them in pots of sandy soil, packed firmlv, and then
water through a fine rose. A rather shaded, dwarf
pit or frame is invaluable to the owner of a rock
garden, and here the pots should be placed, keeping
them rather close and shaded until roots have been
formed, when the plants should be gradually
inured to more light and air preparatory to their
being planted in September.

Plants Under Glass.

Herbaceous Calceolarias. — I like to sow these

about the longest day, although some growers sow
rather later. Make sure that you get a good strain
of seed. Some firms are now aiming at selfs or
bicolors ^^•ith large flowers, and thev are verv
effective ; but the spotted type should not be
elbowed out. Sow in well-drained pans of fine soil
that has been watered two hours previous to sow-
ing. Mix the seed carefully with some sand or very
fine soil to ensure uniform dispersion of the seed.
Do not cover the seed, or, at most, only give a
dusting of very fine soil. Cover with a pane of
glass, shade with white paper, and place in a
cool frame. If the soil becomes at all dry, moisten
by immersion. Closely watch the process of
germination, and gradually admit air and light,
but do not expose to draughts or to full sunlight.

Cinerarias.— Prick off into bo.xes of light, rich
soil as soon as the first rough leaf is formed. Keep
rather close for a few days after being pricked off,
and maintain cool and moist conditions.

Perpetual Carnations.— Plants that are ready
for it should be shifted on into 5-inch pots, using
a mixture of good yellow loam, if at all available,
with some sand, wood-ashes, dried sheep or cow
manure and crushed bones. A sprinkling of soot
over the drainage helps to keep out worms and
serves as a welcome fertiliser to the plants.

Fruits Under Glass.

Second Thinning of Grapes. — Later crops will
now be requiring second thinning. Where the
first thinning has been well done, this is a light
operation ; still, the keenest expert cannot always
forecast subsequent developments, and so second
thinning is a necessity. Great care should be
taken to avoid injuring the berries with the points
of the scissors. Any shoulders requiring tying out
should receive this attention before second thinning
commences.

Watering Vines. — Moisture on the surfacs of
the border is no criterion as to its condition 18 inches
below the surface, and this must be determmed
from time to time by a soil-tester or common
auger, and if foimd to be dry, a good watering must
be given, and advantage may be taken of the
operation to apply some fertiliser to assist in the
process of swelling the crop.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Netting Small Fruit. — This work is absolutely
necessary nowadays, and those who have not yet
gone to the expense of wire netting must fall back
on tanned netting, and the sooner it is in position
the better; especially is this the case with Straw-
berries. Strands of wire across the break either
way will keep the nets off the grotmd. Make
sure that all is secure at the ground-line, as it is
there where the birds look for a means of ingress.
For Loganberries use the oldest net, as it will
never do duty again.

The Vegetable Garden.

Peas. — If not already done, the last sowmg for
the season must now lie made. Stake succession
sowings as they are read)-. Early crops in pod
should have a dressing of nitrate of soda or soot in
showery weather if possible.

Exhibition Leeks. — These will now be growing
apace, and they should be provided with card-
board collars to assist in the process of blanching.
Draw in a little earth from time to time, and at
each earthing slightly raise the collar.

Vegetable Marrows. — ."Vs growth proceeds, the

leading shoot should be pegged down to prevent
injury from winds. Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens. Davi.hon's Mains. Midlothian.

June 14. 1913.

THE GARDEN.

307

THE GREENHOUSE.

REPOTTING AURICULAS.

IT has been the general practice for many-
years for Auricula-growers to repot their
plants annually. This practice was not
always looked upon favourably by growers
a hundred or more years ago. Some of
them advocated the leaving of full-sized
plants undisturbed in their pots for a second year,
giving additional top-dressings in summer and
spring, instead of an entire change of soil as is usual
among present-day cultivators. These old growers
used pots for their full-sized plants much deeper
and wider than are used now ; and although we
adopt a different practice from that followed by
our forbears, we must pay some deference to their
ideas, for these were bom of the results of a certain
measure of trial and experiment. Granted the
experiments were not always conducted on the
lines we think best, these old enthusiasts achieved
results that, I think, would not in any way do
discredit to our principal present-day exhibitors.
They fixed a high standard to work to, and at their
shows in London and district their plants had to
have at least seven expanded pips. This rule
would handicap some of us when show-day comes
round and we are looking for plants for classes of
twelve, eight, six, &c. The organisers of these
old Auricula shows did not attempt the bold dis-
plays we see at our exhibitions, and had no classes
for twelves and sixes as we have, but showed their
edged flowers almost exclusively in pairs. Our
bright and gloriously-coloured alpines were then non-
existent. Competition was keen at these shows, and,
as I have already said, the old growers fixed a high
standard, a standard we have not seen fit to alter.
This to our credit. These men of old times fixed
the ideals of perfection and set us on the way to
attain it ; indeed, they got so far on the way
themselves that some of their work has hardly
been excelled. They raised the immediate prede-
cessors of George Lightbody, Richard Headley
and Lancashire Hero, grey-edged flowers that
grace the show-boards of our exhibitions to-day.

I have wandered considerably from what I
first spoke of; but allowing that these old growers
knew something of what they were about, is it
not possible that we, in trying to remedy some of
their faults, may go too far in the opposite direc-
tion ? I do not think it is necessary to be quite
so severe in the treatment of the AurictUa at repot-
ting-time as is sometimes the case. I have heard
of some who systematically wash off all soil from
the roots ; this appears to me to be too drastic
a proceeding as a regular practice. Another
point as regards the repotting is to be considered ;
At what time of the year is it best to repot — early
or late ? By early I mean May to the middle of
June, and late, during August. This is a question
often asked now, and was much discussed in the
days that are gone. Personally, I prefer to pot
early, and, if I could, I would have all mine com-
pleted before May is out.

The Best Soil. — What compost should be used
lo grow the plants in ? It is not possible to say
this or that mixture is the best. Some growers
obtain excellent plants and blooms in one mixture,
others in another. What is most certain is that
good loam full of fibre is the sheet-anchor of all
composts, and excellent results can be obtained
in that alone if the loam is not too heavy and the
drainage is satisfactory. I myself use a mixture
of foiu- parts fairly heavy loam, as full of fibre as

I can get, and not stacked more than about six
months, one part decayed leaves (do not have these
from near manufacturing towns, but get sweet
leaf-mould from the country), and one part old
hot-bed manure. 1 do not use sand to keep the
soil open, but crushed oyster-shell, charcoal and
old mortar instead. To these I add a good dusting
of bone-meal and soot. It is well to prepare this
a few weeks before required for use, and to have
it regularly turned over to get the compost as
sweet as possible. This latter point is not to be
lost sight of. Whatever mixture is used as a pot-
ting medium, it must be, above all else, sweet and
fresh. Now take the plant to be treated. If an
old one, take off the soil sufficiently to enable the
main root to be examined for any sign of decay.
If any exists, cut clean away to sound growth,
putting dry lime on the wotmd. Shorten the
main root if long. If in any doubt as to whether
to cut a piece off or not, it is a safe rule to always
give the preference to the knife, for it is the upper
portion of the main root from which the principal
and most useful root-fibres will come, the lower
portion gradually becoming of less use. Take off
any offsets that may be attached ; these, if large,
to be potted singly in small pots ; if small, to be
put round the edge of a 4i-inch pot. If the plant
is in a small pot, it can be transferred to a larger
one, only taking a little of the soil from the old
ball. Pots of 4j inches in diameter need very
rarely be exceeded. Quite large plants can be
grown in this size. Take care to work the new soil
well among the root-fibres of the plant. Whenever
a plant is taken from a pot, the root aphis, which
is nearly always in evidence, should be cleared
away, either by brushing off with a mediiim stiff
brush or by applying methylated spirit. If the
pots used have been soaked in water prior to the
plants being potted, and the soil used is in a properly
moist condition, the plants will not require watering
for two or three days if they are placed in a close
frame shaded from the sun. Beware of excessive
watering at this stage. Decay is often set up by
too liberal applications of water, especially where the
roots have been cut. Keep the plants close for a
week or ten days after repotting. As they begin to
get settled in the new soil, give air gradually until,
at the end of a few weeks, the lights can be removed
altogether ; but always shade from bright sunshine
and keep as cool as possible. On the north side
of a wall or fence is a good place for the frames
during the summer. G. J. S.

seems that heat is applicable to Cucumbers,
Tomatoes in pots and some other plants. Chemicals
must, of course, be soluble and harmless, and at
the same time potent to kill very low forms of life,
as well as such things as eelworms, rotifers and
woodlice, all of which are associated with glass-
house sickness. G.

PROPAGATING ARAUCARIA
EXCELSA.

Though small plants of Araucaria excelsa are by
some regarded as of too symmetrica! a character,
they are admired by many, and there is always a
considerable demand for them. In order to keep
up the supply, great numbers are raised from seeds,
but the plants obtained in this way are not nearly
as well furnished at the base as those raised from
cuttings. As with all the regular growing conifers,
it is, of course, useless to take cuttings of the side
branches, as this branch-like style of growth
will be always retained. In order to propagate
these Araucarias from cuttings, the first thing to
do is to obtain cuttings of the right sort. This is
done by taking off the top of a plant, and if it is
not too strong it may be utilised as a cutting.
The old plant will after this often push up two or
three leaders to take its place, and when these
new shoots are from 4 inches to 6 inches in length,
they form the best of cuttings. Put into small
pots of sandy soil in a close propagating-case with
a gentle heat, they will soon root and quickly form
neat, well-furnished specimens. The old plants
will continue to push up new leaders time after-
time. As illustrating the finely symmetrical
plants that can be obtained from cuttings, attention
may be called to a group of that new variety. Silver
Star, which formed quite a feature at the Royal
Horticultural Hall on Jime 3. H. P.

SOIL

IN GREEN-

PURIFICATION
HOUSES.

The question of soil purification in greenhouses
now seems to be attaining more practical shape,
and experiment has been busy with sterilisation
as a means of ridding the soil of the unhealthy
fungoid and other undesirable lower forms of life
which undoubtedly cause much trouble to all who
cultivate under glass. Tomatoes and Cucumbers
are liable to many scourges when grown in

TO

ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor inlaids lo
make THE GARDEN helpful to all readers who desire assifti'
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may he, and
with that object ivitl make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the EDITOR 0/ THE Garden. 20, Tavietock
Street, Coveni Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation hr
may desire to be used in the paper. When WA)re than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and ftowerinq
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
smalt scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the PtTBLISHER.

FLOWER GARDEN.

SLUGS AND SWEET PEAS (M. J".).— The Sweet Pea
♦ujc 1 foliage is beins damaged by slugs, and probably the best
. I remedy to apply will be soot or soot and lime, dusted on.
way, and it seems likely enough that the soil is ! Spraying the plants or watering them with an ounce of
Recent research has potassium permanganate dissolved in a gallon of watrr

largely responsible for this,
shown that sterilisation can effectively deal with
the matter, and results similar to those in the case
of sewage-sick soils have been obtained. Many
substances, such as formaldehyde and toluene,
have been tried, and it seems likely that a number
are useful, and work on a commercial scale has
been proved to be practicable. Heat is much the
best remedy, but it is expensive — much more so
than are chemicals, the alternative method. How-
ever, at IS. or IS. 6d. per ton of earth purified, it

often proves a good remedy.

INJURY TO IRISES (G. K. M.). — The Irises are attaeked
by the bulb mite (Khizoglyphus echinopus). This has
destroyed parts of the bulbs "and the roots, and the injury
to the foliage follows as a result. It would be well to dig
up all the bulbs as soon as the foliage dies off, and pUiuge
them in water at about 110° for a short while. This will
probably kill most of the mites without damage to the
bulbs, and they may then be replanted in a fresh position.

LILY OF THE VALLEY (H. H.).— As you can do
nothing to the bed before October, you might send ns
a sample of the weed which you say is choking the plants.
It may be of a very Insidious type, requiring the most
drastic measures to get rid of it. You may discourage
it by pulling up all that is possible, and encourage tlu"

308

THE GARDEN.

[June 14, 1Q13.

growth of the Lilies by frequent doses of liquid maniure.
In sending the weed, please direct our attention to this
reply, when we vnU furnish full particulars as to what is
best to be done.

MYOSOTIS (E. B. G.). — The plant is Myosotis alpestris
Marie Kaphael, and may be propagated from seeds and
cuttings. The seedlings would, however, be sure to vary,
and true stock could only be depended upon from cuttings.
To obtain a stock by these means it would be necessary
to plant a reserve batch apart, cutting tliem down as soon
as the first flush of flowers was past. Then, by pricking
up the soil and giving a mulching of fresh material, new
growth may be encouraged by watering and presently put
to use as desired.

"FIRE" IN TULIPS (H. T. M.).— The Tulips are
attacked by the disease called "fire," to which reference
has been made frequently of late in our columns. We
should think your soil must be affected by the fungus,
which often passes the summer in the soil, and we would
suggest that Tulips and other bulbous plants should not
be planted in this bed for three or four years to come.
There is no cure for the disease, but it would be well to
remove all affected foliage as soon as possible, so as to
prevent tlie disease from reaching the bulb and the fungus
from forming the hard resting bodies called Sclerotia
in the soil or in the bulb.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

CHANGE IN FORM AND COLOUR OF CLEMATIS

(K. M.)- — Are you absolutely certain no mistake has
occurred with regard to the Clematis ? The change of
form and colour over a whole plant is extraordinary. Is
it at all likely that the stock has grown up in place of the
plant you had ?

PLANTING CYTISUS (Aiidreanus). — If plants of Cytisus
andrcanus prostratus are obtained in pots, they may be
planted at once ; but if they have to be lifted from a bed,
the planting must be deferred until October. It is always
better to obtain small rather than large plants, as they
transplant more satisfactorily. Plants may bo obtained
from any of the leading nurserymen for Is. or Is. 6d. each.

GALLS ON AZALEA (ff. S. N.). — The Azalea is attacked
by the fungus Exobasidium japonicum. This fungus causes
galls which should be picked off and liurned as soon as
they'are apparent. It is too late to avoid all danger of
spread to the otlier parts of the plant now, as the gaUs have
turned white, showing the spores are developed, ready to
spread the disease, but the burning of them will minimise
the danger.

GORSE SEEDLINGS (B. A. P.).— If you collect quite
small plants of Gorse, not more than one year old, there
is no reason why you should not establish them success-
fully in the autumn. At the same time, it would be advis-
able to procure seeds this year and keep them over the
winter ; then, if any of the plants die, a few seeds could
be sowu early next March with the object of replacing the
dead plants. There is no reason why you should not
collect sulBcient seeds for this purpose ; but if you wish to
procure them elsewhere, any of the firms of nurserymen
who make a speciality of forest trees and covert plants,
such as Dicksons of Chester, Little and Ballantyne of
Carlisle, or Wiseman and Sons of Elgin, would be able to
supply tliem.

PRUNING SHRUBS (Dion). — It is not possible to treat
all flowering shrubs in the way recommended for Prunus
triloba after flowering. Forsythia suspensa, Jasminum
uudiflorum and Pliiladelphus Lemoinei are other subjects
that respond to the treatment recommended for P. triloba.
\ Lilac which is becoming leggy may be cut back after
flowering ; but it is not advisable to prune Lilacs back
retnilarly. A great point in the successful culture of
Lilacs is to restrict the growtli of young slioots. The
inside shoots and a number of the weaker outside ones
should be removed when from 4 inches to 6 inches long,
in order tliat all the energy of the plants may be devoted
to perfecting the principargro\vths on which the best flowers
are produced. If a mass of weak wood is allowed to grow,
fewer and poorer flowers are obtained. Thorns may be
shortened somewhat as soon as the flowers are over, and
it the centres are full of weak branches, a few may be
removed bodily in order to admit light and air to the
remaining branches. It is not possible to give general
instructions for pruning flowering trees and shrubs, as
almost every kind requires slightly different treatment.
As a rule, however, it is a good plan to do any necessary
pruning after the flowers fade, and to keep the centres
of the trees fairly open.

THE GREENHOUSE.

INJURY TO VINE LEAVES (Ernestii).—The damage
lo the Vine leaves has been brought about by keeping
the Vines too close in a moist house with too high a tem-
perature.

INJURY TO LILIES (i. H'.).— So far as the specimens
sent go, it would seem tliat the plants have been exposed
to cold draughts. They may have been suffering from
the " Lily disease " last year, but the symptoms of that
trouble are not at all evident yet.

CARNATIONS AND GREEN FLY (.M. 0. W.).—lt is
quite possible that "the blight" referred to by you,
which we take to be aphides or green fly, is on other
plants as well as the Carnations, and, consequently, cleaning
off a few of the insects will have no effect. By far the better
plan will be to vaporise your greenhouse with one of the
many nicotine compounds now on the market, such as
the XL All Vaporiser. If this is done two or three
times at intervals of a few days, the pests will be entirely
got rid of,

PALM LEAVES WITHERED (IT. £.).— The two speci-
mens sent are too meagre to enable us to name them with
certainty. They look as though the conditions under
which they are growing are not congenial, and the Palm
certainly requires more heat than you can give it without
Are in winter. It should have a dry temperature of about
60° at least in winter, and not below 45° to 50° at night.
The Bamboo will probably put up with a lower temperature,
but attention to the water supply is most important,
and you will probably find the Bamboos are suffering
more from this than from anything else.

PELARGONIUMS (R. B. B.). — Your Pelargoniums are
attacked by a fungus which seems greatly on the increase
throughout the country. Highly-fed plants, and those
that have had an excess of water at the roots, or are kept
in a close, stuffy atmosphere, are far more liable to be
attacked than those grown under more natural condilions.
With regard to this it must be borne in mind tliat in South
Africa, the home of the Pelargonium family, a clear, dry
atmospiiere largely prevails. To combat the trouble, give
tlie plants plenty of air, and spray occasionally witlx one
of the many fungicides now obtainable. One very clean
in its application is permanganate of potash, the crystals
of which may be dissolved in water. The solution should,
when ready, be of a pale rose colour.

PERPETUAL CARNATIONS (R. H. B.).— As your plants
of Carnations are carrying six good shoots, they will not
need to be stopped any more. For flowering, 6-inch pots
would have been preferable to 6-inch ; but if they do well,
the strongest may be shifted into larger pots in July.
When the roots take possession of the new soil, the plants
will be much better stood out of doors than in a close and
stuffy atmosphere, as a light, buoyant air is at all seasons
very essential to the successful culture of these Carnations.
When out of doors tliey must be stood on a well-drained
place, and a gentle spraying with rain-water on the evenings
of hot days will be beneficial. They must, by the end of
August, be removed into the greenhouse, taking care that
they have a good liglit position, with plenty of air, assigned
them. In the winter the thermometer may range from
45° to 50° at night, rising 10° or 20° during the day.

ROSE GARDEN.

GREEN CORE IN ROSES (K. J)f.).— Certain Koses are
very liable to the production of this green core, and we
think it usually follows a check to growth, such as might
be imposed by frost or a dry spell of weather just when
growth should be active.

RAMBLER ROSES WITH BLIGHTED FOLIAGE
(Perplexed). — If you persevere with the Cyllin Soft Soap
you will very soon check the green fly. When possible,
dip the shoots in a bowl of the liquid for a few seconds.
The bruised appearance of leaves is caused by cold winds,
and possibly by sliglit frost. Perhaps the plants need a
good sprinkling at the roots. Often ramblers suffer
more from drought than we generally suppose, especially
if planted where the soil is not often hoed. Cover the
soil witli short manure, then give each tree tliree or four
bucketfuls of water, and repeat this twice a week.

MANURES FOR EXHIBITION BLOOMS (Rosary).—
As you desire a change from liquid cow-manure, we should
advise either Ichthemic Guano or Clay's Fertiliser, both
of which are quick acting and excellent if given in modera-
tion. An excellent quick-acting maniire for Roses would
be an ounce of nitrate of potash or an ounce of phospiiate of
potash in a gallon of water. Of course, if you give the latter
you would not apply the former, and be careful to water
the ground well previously if at all dry. In tlie case of the
guanoorClay'sFertilizer, it would be well to water it in, so
that the Roses obtain the benefit quickly. We should be
inclined to favour the liquid manure as last recommended,
and you could give the Roses tlie liquid cow-manure
a week afterwards ; then repeat the potash liquid a week
after tliat, but withhold it if the Roses are showing colour.

ROSA SINICA ANEMONE WITH DAMAGED FLOWERS
(U. E. B.). — We think the deformed petals are due as
much to the season as anything. We have had the same
occurrence on the earliest blooms, but the later ones are
all riglit. Possibly the somewhat unripened condition
of the wood is responsible for it. We cannot recommend
any special treatment beyond the ordinary system of
culture. As you know, Crimson Rambler produces its
best clusters upon the wood of the previous year, so that
you will do well to cut away as much of the old wood
as can well be spared. In the case of sinica anemone,
this should also have old wood removed to some extent
after it has ceased to fiower this season. The very small
specimen you send us suggests that the plant needs atten-
tion in the matter of manure. It would be well to give it
some good liquid manure to encourage a more vigorous
growth during the summer.

MISCELLANEOUS.

PONDWEED AND COPPER SULPHATE (J. T.).~li
you apply copper sulphate to tlic water in your ponds at
the rate of cue part of copper sulphate to one million parts
of water, it is not likely to cause harm to cattle drinking
the water, especially if a few hoiirs are allowed to elapse
before the water is used for drinkin}2 purposes. It has been
amply demonstrated by American officials that copper
sulphate applied at the above strength has no harmful
effect upon human beini^s or animals, and fish live in water
containing a much higher solution. You must estimate the
cubical contents of your ponds, and reckon each cubic foot
of water as weighing about sixty-two and one-third pounds.
Be careful that the copper sulphate is distributed equally
through the water,

SEAKALE ROOTS AFTER FORCING {A. E. H.).—
Such forced roots are no good, Seakale is grown from root-
cuttings planted in March, such cuttings making strong
roots in the course of the summer and autumn following
quite good enough to force in the following winter and
spring. You should bear this in mind, and secure early
cuttings in autumn or early winter. These should be
planted deeply (in trenches) in soil where the position is
cool until they are wanted in spring for planting in their
summer quarters.

FUNGUS ON WILLOW AND ALLIUM (FT. B.).— The
Willow j^hoots sent for examinai mii Ii;i\l' been injured by
the Willow canker fungus (.Mtlaiiip^ura alii-salicis albse)
Two dilferent stages of the fungus occur, one on Willow,
and more frequently on rods grown for basket-making
than on trees, and tlie other stage on Allium ursinum.
If you watch the Willows carefully, you will doubtless find
patches of bright yellow spores on the leaves and bark
during summer, which result in the dead patches of which
you complain. The only practical way to etfect a remedy
is to cut otf the affected branches and burn them. If
any wild Allium is growing in the vicinity, dig it up and
burn it also. A description of this disease is given in
" The Fungus Diseases of Plants/' by G. Massee.

VARIOUS QUESTIONS (Ignatius).— The shrub sent
Eorname is the Mexican Orange Flower (Choisyaternata).
It may be increased by means of cuttings taken any time
during summer, and inserted in sandy soil in a close frame
or in pots in a greenhouse. It may also be propagated
by layering the lower branches in spring. Throughout
the milder parts of the British Isles it thrives quite well
in the open ground, forming a large, shapely bush with
little attention to pruning. In colder districts, however,
it must be planted against a wall or be grown in a green-
house. Any kind of fairly good garden soil suits it.
It may be used as a tub plant for standing on terraces
if it is so wished. The Smilax is a perennial plant, and
is usually grown in a greenhouse or against the back wall
of a vinery. It thrives well in a compost of two parts
fibrous loam to one part of old Mushroom-bed manure
or leaf-mould with a little sand. The best material for
potting Geraniums in is three parts good loam to one part
of old hot-bed or Mushroom-bed manure with a little sand.
You can keep the foliage good by attending to the proper
ventilation of the house and the proper watering of the
plants. When the pots are well filled with roots, liquid
manure should be given occasionally. It is probable
that you have starved your plants in the past. Well-
decayed manure is better than fresh manure for Potatoes.
Either well-decayed farmyard manure or chemical manure
rich in potash may be used. Do not manure too heavily,
however, or the Potatoes will form too much haulm and
too few tubers.

NAMES OF PLANTS. — Mrs. Cooke. — Alonsoaincisifolia;

Begonia fuchsioides. G. B. -Bmne^.—Pyrus Aria (White

Beam).— — O. B.— Rose Flora. H. V. B.— Diervilla

(Weigela) Eva Rathke.

SOCIETIES.

NATIONAL HARDY PLANT SOCIETY'S OUTING.

On Saturday afternoon. May 31, members and friends
of the National Hardy Plant Society to the number of
thirty-six travelled in a special saloon from Marylebone
to Chorley Wood Station, whence, by the kindness
of .\deliuc'Duchess of Bedford, conveyances took the party
to Woodside, Chenies, where they were received by Her
Grace, who not only extended her visitors a cordial wel-
come, but devoted tlie afternoon to tlieir entertainment,
personally accompanying the party round the delightful
and interesting gardens and afterwards presiding at tea.
The gardens at Woodside are, by reason of their owner's
wide knowledge and keen appreciation of hardy plants,
full of charm and interest, and it need scarcely be remarked
that the enthusiasts who constituted the party on Saturday
spent a most delightful time inspecting the extensive
herbaceous borders, the rockery (recently enlarged), and
the sloping banks of the River Chess, which runs through
the grounds, and which just now are bedecked with far-
reaching masses of Myosotis, Irises, Helianthemums,
and a host of other free-flowering plants of dwarf stature,
which thrive among rocky boulders let in the bank-sides.
Large masses of Primula japonica in full flower were very
fine, and in the herbaceous borders Lupinus polyphyllus,
both blue and pink, and the flue rose-coloured flowers of
Agrostemma coronaria flore pleno were prominent features.
Free use is made at Woodside of Hesperis matronalis,
and although now past, the faded flower-heads of great
drifts of Polyanthus bore witness to wliat had been a
glorious show. Diantlius alpinus on the rockery was just
at its best, and many choice Saxifragas were flowering
profusely. The hardy plantsmen were unanimous in
their high appreciation of tlie serviceable collection of
hardy plants so skilfully disposed and well grown, and
Mr. John Dickson, the head- gardener, was the recipient
of many congratulations. To go into details of the gardens
and the extensive collection of plants would require a
large amount of space, but for the present it must suffice
to record the fact that the outing proved to be most
enjoyable, well organised, and a happy combination of
pleasurable recreation and profitable education to all
who participated. Before the party left, the chairman
of the society, Mr. F. Bouskell. in a few appropriate words,
voiced the gratitude of all to Her Grace tlie Duchess of
Bedford for her kindness in first permitting the visit to
her gardens, and for so graciously honouring tliem with
lier presence as well as providing such hospitality.

^fev_

\^/^i^j--4^_^/^^4^ ^"

GARDEN.!

-:««'■

^c^^mi

No 2170.— Vol. LXXVII.

June 21, 1913.

CONTEiNTS.

Notes of the Week

309

Rock and Water Garden

Correspondence

The Creeping Sand-

Paeony L'Esporanco

310

wort

314

The gennination of

Primula involucrata

Peas and Beans. .

310

in a Scottish rock

Toads in the garden

310

garden

314

Snake's-head Fritil-

Colodred Plate

lary and Forget-

A new dwarf yellow

me-nots

311

Arum Lily . . . .

314

Sbrabby Pentstomons 311

The FoTget-me-iiot

Eremuri in the wild

in the pleasure
ground

311

garden

.Some useful hardy

316

Forthcoming events . .

311

plants

Some good uncom-

315

Trees and Shkcbs

mon hardy plants

Sl.S

Some useful shrubs

Notes on Tulips . .

316

for the wild garden

Propagating Weige-

las

311
311

Gardeninq for Beginners
How to layer Straw-
berries 317

Rose Garden

Shading the green-

The best Roses for

house

317

house decoration

312

Gardening of the Week I

Do Roses deteriorate? 312

For Southern gar-

A good new Rose . .

312

dens

318

KITCHEN Garden

For Northern gar-

Seasonable notes on

dens

318

vegetables . . . .

312

Answers to Corke-|

Rock and Water Garden

SPONDENTS

Flower garden

31»

months after con-

Rose garden . .

319

313

Greenhouse . .

319

The Variegated Gar-

Fruit garden . . . .

319

313

Kitchen garden

320

Some inteiestlng

Miscellaneous

32U

aquatics

314

BOOKS

320

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

IliliDSTRATIONS.

.\ beautiful colony of .Sun Roses 310

Rose Mrs. C. Reed 312

A rock garden five months after it was constructed . . 313

The Creeping Sandwort 314

A new dwarf yellow Arum Lily Coloured plate

An effective grouping of Eremuri 315

An old-fashioned Tulip show at Wakefield . . . . 316

How to layei Strawberries 317

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
bui he vMl not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, unll be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he ivill endeavour to return non-accepted
contribtUions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright mil be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden vriil alone
be recognised as acceptance .

Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

The Guelder Rose. — Viburnum plicatum is
very attractive just now with its snowball-like
heads of flowers. It is easy to manage and will
thrive in any ordinary soil, which facts should
make it more appreciated by suburban and town
gardeners. If it is taken up and replanted every
two or three years, a check will be put on any
tendency to grossness, thus making it less possible
to get unwieldy while at the same time increasing
its flowering value.

Fruit Prospects lor 1913. — According to the
monthly report just published by the Board of
Agriculture, the prospects for fruit during the
present year are of a variable character. Straw-
berries, Raspberries and Currants promise to be
good ; but Gooseberries, though good in some
districts, are bad in others. Pears, especially in
the south-eastern districts, are below the average,
while Apples promise a large crop. Plums and
Cherries are about normal. In many instances
that have come under our own observation, the
last two fruits named failed badly in stoning.

A Glorious Garden Pink. — Few hardy plants
that have been introduced during recent years
have had such a warm reception as Pink gloriosa.
This has all the good attributes of the old garden
Pinks, and in addition gives us large, bold flowers
of bright rose pink colour. Moreover, it remains
in flower for several weeks, and in that respect
is a great advance over old varieties. The flowers
are as large as those of Mrs. Sinkins, but the calyces
do not split as they do in that well-known variety,
while, owing to its colour, it is far more effective
in the garden. But its crowning glory is its scent,
which has captivated every visitor to our garden
during the last three weeks.

The French Honeysuclile. — Among the many
plants that require to be sown now should be
included Hedysarum coronarium, or the French
Honeysuckle (a name that seems somewhat out
of place, as the plant in question is neither a
Honeysuckle nor a native of France). Its spikes
of deep red flowers, often measuring from 4 inches
to 6 inches on stalks from 2 feet to 3 feet high,
are very effective at this time of the year. Its
sweet scent has an attraction for the bees, so that
it should be a useful plant to grow near their
hives. There is a white form which is very seldom
grown, and can hardly be considered equal to the
type.

The Dwarf Mock Oranges. — Just now the
several dwarf forms of Philadelphus, or Syrmgas
as they are often erroneously called, are flowering
freely, and their fragrant blossoms find a welcome
in many schemes of house decoration. For small
gardens they are ideal shrubs, because they give
better results if judiciously cut back every year.
As soon as flowering is over, a portion at least of
the old wood ought to be cut away. Usually

I strong young shoots will be found coming out from
I near the base, and if the old wood is cut down to
these, much better results will be obtained next
year. If left alone, these miniature Mock Oranges,
generally referred to as Lemoine's hybrids, are
apt to get rather thin and imsightly.

Scentless Musk. — M one time Musk was known
by its fragrance, but for some unaccountable reason
it appears now to have completely lost this precious
gift. We have observed Musk in many gardens
just lately, and while in some instances the owners
have not been acquainted with the fact, yet in no
case has any trace of fragrance been found. No^v
that Musk is flowering in widely-separated districts,
it would be interesting to hear the experience ol
others. Sweet-scented Musk is in great demand,
and there is a good future in store for anyone lucky
enough to possess it.

An Interesting Experiment in Destroying
Lawn Weeds. — Those who are in Southport
during the next week or two should make a point
of visiting Hesketh Park, where an interesting
demonstration in destroying lawn weeds is being
conducted. The Boimdary Chemical Company
ofiered to supply the authorities free with sufficient
Climax Lawn Sand to dress the lawns in the flower
gardens there. This offer has been accepted,
and the lawn sand will be applied in two operations.
It is not often that the public has an opportunity
of seeing the results of a demonstration of this
kind.

The Double White-Flowered Sweet Rocket.—
How seldom one sees this fragrant subject doing
really well in the gardens of to-day ! The single
form is widely grown, but the double variety is one
of those plants that belong to the gardens of
bygone days. We were reminded of the value of
this plant (Hesperis matronalis alba plena) when
visiting the gardens of J. C. Eno, Esq., Wood Hall,
Dulwich. The fragrance in the eventide and the
masses of double white flowers were a pleasure to
remember. There is a secret in its cultivation,
viz., to replant the side growths annually, other-
wise the old clumps are inclined to rot off in the
centre.

Cause of Silver-Leaf Disease. — This serious and
puzzling disease appears to be more prevalent this
year than ever. For several years past one school of
scientists has favoured the idea that it was caused by
one stage of the fungus Stereum purpureum, others
being equally certain that there was no connection
between the two diseases, and that the fungus only
attacked the trees after they had been killed or
seriously injured by silver-leaf. It is now rumoured
that the latter theory is the more correct, as silver-
leaf is said to have appeared among batches of first
year seedlings, the seeds having been sown under
conditions which rendered it imlikely that Stereum
mycelium was present in the soil. Whatever the
source of the disease, it is a most serious one
and we trust that definite information as to its
origin and cure may soon be forthcoming.

310

THE GARDEN.

[June 21, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is tiot responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Primula Leddy Pilrig.— I find that I must
have made a mistake in my letter to you about
Primula Leddy Pilrig, which you reproduced in The
Garden for June 7, page 286. My gardener tells
me that P. beesiana is the pollen parent and has
perfume, P. buUeyana being the seed parent. It
{P. buUeyana) is scentless. I am sorry to have
made the mistake, as I said P. buUeyana was
responsible for the perfume and was the pollen
parent. — B. Balfour-Melville.

Lithospermum prostratum at Comlongan,
Dumfriesshire. — The lovely Prostrate Gromwell
is cultivated with remarkable success in the beautiful
garden of Mr. A. H. Johnstone-Douglas at Comlon-
gan Castle, Dumfriesshire, both on rockwork edging
in the flower garden and in the rock garden. Big
clumps in the most perfect condition are to be seen,
and one mass, only four or five years old, measured

Apart from the flowers, the foliage is just about
the same. — H. P.
The Germination of Peas and Beans.— For

some reason or other several of the Marrowfat
varieties of Peas and the tall and dwarf Rtmner
Beans have not germinated very satisfactorily this
season. Scarlet Runners have come very irregular,
and the Dwarf French Beans came so poor as to
make resowing necessary, a task I have not had to
do for some years. A gardener at an institute
told me the other day that out of five or six quarts
of Peas he had not obtained one really good row.
The round Pea — Pilot, for instance — has, with the
writer, come well, but the Marrowfats are more
sparse and weakly than usual. It would be in-
teresting to hear if the above experience is shared
by others or peculiar to this locality. — C. T.,
Highgate. [We have found both types of Peas
germinate well, but Beans very poorly. — Ed.]

The Sun Roses. — The various kinds of Heli-
anthemum are not planted half so freely as they
ought to be, for they thrive under conditions
which would be almijst impossible for many other

A BEAUTIFUL COLONY OF SUN ROSES.

quite 6 feet in length by over 2 feet across on an
average. This was on a rockwork edging. In
the rock garden it is also very fine, though none
of the dimips had as yet attained the dimensions
of that mentioned now. — S. Arnott.

Paeony L'Esperance. — This Tree Paeony, which
was figured in The Garden for June 14, is, as
far as I know, the first hybrid obtained from the
yellow-flowered Paeonia lutea, whose introduction
some years ago aroused a deal of interest. It was
raised by M. Lemoine of Nancy, who has also given
us the double-flowered Gloire de Lorraine. Whereas
this last named was, however, only distributed
in 1912, the variety L'Esperance was sent out in the
autumn of igog, its price nf twenty-five francs
being very different from the eightj'guineas of
La Lorraine. As stated in your description, the
general appearance of the two woirld suggest that
they have one common origin, the main distinctive
feature being that the flowers of L'Esperance are
only semi-double, whereas those of La Lorraine
have the duplex character very pronounced.

THESE THRIVE WELL IN POOR, DRV SOIL,

plants to succeed under, and always bloom freely.
Quite recently a magnificent lot of plants were
noted growing upon the summit and sides of a
stone and earth wall. They were the picture of
health, and the glowing masses of white, yellow,
pink, red and purple blossoms presented a very
attractive pictmre. Providing the precaution is
taken of planting quite small plants from pots,
there is no difficulty in getting them to establish
themselves either on a wall or on a dry bank ;
but large plants cannot be transplanted well.
It is also a wise plan to destroy old plants which
show signs of deterioration and begin again with
young stock, rather than try to rejuvenate the
old ones. — D.

Toads in the Garden. — In the issue of The
Garden of the 7th inst. a correspondent writes that
he accidentally killed two toads with an insecticide
powder. Could your correspondent give me the
name of the powder? I should be much obliged,
as I have been greatly troubled with toads round
the bee-hives eating my bees, and nothing seems

to have any effect on them. Excellent they ma\-
be in a garden, not in an apiary.- — K. T. [We
sent a copy of this letter to an expert bee-
keeper, and publish herewith his reply : " The
letter re toads and bees brings forward an interest-
ing point. Both are so useful in a garden that it
seems a pity they cannot live together amicably.
I have only once before heard of a case where a
toad did any appreciable harm to a colony of bees.
If the apiary is kept free from all vegetation for
some distance rovmd the hives, and the ground
strewn with fine cinders, I do not think the
bees would be much molested. The alighting board
of each hive should be kept free of the ground,
and a little slaked lime might be sprinkled on the
groimd around the hives. The bees that fall
victims to the toad are probably the old, worn-
out ones. The hives should be so arranged that
It is impossible for a toad to climb up on to the
alighting boards. It would be a great pity to
destroy toads in a garden. I import numbers into
mine, and I do not think I have ever lost a bee
from that cause." — Ed.i

SOVEREIGNTY.

The Snowdrop came like infancy.
Whose coming ever must assure

A dubious world that life may be
Divinely fresh and pure.

The Crocus wakened, as a cbiM
Awakes to marvel at the day

And win the winds, that seem so wild.
To light and genial play.

A romping girl, the Dafiodil

Wore a mock dignity — soon lost

When, grown forgetful to be still.
Her golden head she tossed.

The Violet was a gentle maid t^'g''''
Who, having seen heaven's dazzling

Would turn aside, as though afraid
To trust her questioning sight.

The Lily passed, a virgin fair.
So stately and so passionless.

It seemed that ev'n the very air
Might venture no caress.

The Rose ? Ah, welcome, sorereign
Rose !
As womanhood serene, complete.

That all heaven's influences compose
To beauty nobly sweet.

James Cartwbichi.
A Useful Greenhouse Plant.— The striking
feature that Jacobinia magnifica camea presents
when displayed in a mass or clump is well illustrated
in the greenhouse at Kew, where there is a large,
semi-circular group in full flower. It is an old
plant in gardens, but is by no means so generally
met with as its merits entitle it to be. Like many
other acanthaceous plants, it must not be con-
tinually stopped in order to obtain a bushy speci-
men, as stout, vigorous growth is necessary for
the production of those large, massive heads of
rosy blossoms upon which so much of the beauty
of the plant depends. Its propagation and cultural
requirements are not at all exacting, as cuttings
strike root readily, and the growing plants will
thrive in ordinary potting compost. During the
growing season these Jacobinias require a tempera-
ture above that of an ordinary greenhouse, but
at the same time the plants must not be kept too
close and warm, otherwise they will run up tall
and weak. In some gardens the Jacobinias are
included in the genus Justicia. — H. P.

June 21, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

311

Snake 's-head Fritillary and Forget-me-nots.

It may interest readers to know that I have
this spring obtained very pretty effects in the wild
garden with Forget-me-nots and Fritillaria Meleagris
alba. Large masses of these flowers growing wild
in the grass produce an effect both uncommon and
beautiful, — L. B. W., Somerset.

Shrubby Pentstemons. — The award of merit
recently given to Pentstemon Davidsonii will likely
stimulate interest in the other shrubby Pentstemons,
of which P. Menziesii (Scouleri) may be taken
as the type, and which have such a jumble of
names and synonyms as to be difficult to unravel.
I have grown P. Menziesii here for about eight years,
and have had fair success with it. This year is,
however, a poor one with me ; but in the garden of
Mr. Robinson - Douglas of Orchardton, in the
Stewartry of Kirkcudbright, I was delighted to
see a fiiie plant of a good variety of P. Menziesii
with charming light purple flowers -in great plenty.
It does one good to see such a fine plant, as, apart
from the pleasure derived at the time, it whets
one's desire to grow it even better than before — a
feeling worth encouraging with such flowers as
this. It is in a sunny position in the rock garden
at Orchardton, and less exposed to wind than my
own plant, which is also in a sunny place. At
Orchardton it is planted among the stones, and is
in sandy peat. It is an excellent specimen,
and has been there for quite a number of years. —
S. Arnott, Dumfries.

The Forget-me-not in the Pleasure Ground. —

The note under this head, on page 273 of your
issue for May 31, appeared on the eve of my
writing to draw attention to the use of this pretty
little blue flower in combination with others
for it is not only on the grand scale that things
are carried out at Kew that the modest little flower
can be made effective, but even on a small bit of
rockery bounding some garden steps, at the rear
of my house, some very pleasing combinations
have occurred by the accidental mixture of the
common Forget-me-not and the wild Woodruff
(Asperula odorata), which I introduced from a
neighbouring hedge bank a year or two ago ; and
even another pretty effect has been produced by
the Woodruff encircling a young plant of the
common Bracken, the fresh green fronds of which,
springing from the centre of a mass of the white
flowers, forms a natural, though somewhat gigantic
bouquet, which scents the air around it. The
drawback against the Woodruff is, of course, the
difficulty in keeping it within bounds when once
it has taken possession of the ground. — -John R.
Jackson, Claremont, Lympstone, Devon.

The reference to Myosotis alpestris, as grown

in the pleasure grounds at Kew, in " Notes of the
Week," issue May 3r, should induce many amateur
cultivators to treat this lovely plant more hardily
than they generally do. I have found that in
some soils (in town gardens especially) the well-
cared-for young plants rot badly in the winter,
the centre of each clump decaying. Self-
sown seeds in a hard surface give resultant plants
which withstand the winter splendidly. Seeds
should, therefore, be sown in firm ground.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

SOME USEFUL SHRUBS FOR THE

D

which scarcely attain three-quarters of an inch
in length, and bearing during late May and early
June pretty pale lilac, fragrant flowers. Another
showy kind is found in L. pyrenaica. This native
of the Pyrenees is of less vigorous growth than many
of the other kinds. Forming a bush 2J feet to

USEFUL SHRUBS FOR
WILD GARDBN.

THE BUSH HONEYSUCKLES.

I'RING the months of January and

February a good deal is heard about 3 feet high, it is conspicuous by reason of its rather
two species of bush Honeysuckles, ' '^■'8^ white, pink-flushed flowers, and at a later

date by its bright red fruits.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

June 25. — Norfolk and Norwich Rose Show
(two days). Southampton Royal Horticultural
Society's Rose and Sweet Pea Show. Flower
Shows at Croydon, Harrow and Richmond.

June z6. — Canterbury Rose Show.

Jime 28. — Windsor Rose Show. Reigate Rose
^nd Sweet Pea Show.

Lonicera fragrantissima and L.
Standishii, but later in the year
little or no notice is taken of the
many other species belonging to the same
group, although when seen at their best a
number of them are very beautiful. The
bush Honeysuckles, as a rule, are not very
popular, probably by reason of their requirements
being imperfectly tmderstood, for it is freely
admitted that they sometimes blossom very
indifferently. The reason for this, however,
appears to be that too much attention is given
to pruning, for bushes which are pruned each year
rarely blossom well, whereas quite good results
are obtained from those which are allowed to
develop freely and are practically left tmpruned.
To allow of this method of cultivation being carried
out, though, abundance of room must be allowed,
for some of the species form very large plants,
anything between 8 feet to 15 feet in height and
10 feet to 15 feet in diameter. .4s a rule, good loamy
soil is the most satisfactory rooting medium, and
propagation is easily effected by cuttings or seeds..
The Best Position and Soil. — Many of the species
form shapely isolated specimens, especially if given
a position exposed to full sun. If planted in
shrubberies, they must be so placed that they will
not overgrow less vigorous plants, and for this
reason they are better suited for the wild garden
where each plant can grow alone, or a number
of plants of one species can be grouped together.
Lonicera tatarica is one of the commonest
species. A native of Siberia, it grows into a large
bush at least 10 feet high, and bears its flowers
in pairs from the leaf-axils of the young growths
during late May and early June. The flowers are
fragant and white suffused with pink. The
varieties pulcherrima, punicea and speciosa,
however, have reddish or pink flowers. Quite
different from this species is the North-West
.American L. involucrata. Forming a bush 8 feet
or 10 feet high and as much in diameter, it has
dark green, oblong leaves and showy flowers.
.\s is the case with all the bush kinds, the flowers
appear in pairs from the leaf-a.\ils of the young
shoots. In this case each pair of blossoms ter-
minates a slender stalk about two inches long, and
about their base are two large dark red bracts,
which continue after the fall of the flowers and form
a protecting covering for the shiny black fruits.
The flowers are tubular, reddish brown on the out-
side and orange within. L. hispida is a charming
species from Central Asia and Siberia. As its
name implies, it is very hairy, the young shoots
and leaves being densely covered with soft hairs.
The leaves are broadly ovate with a cordate base,
the upper surface being green, the under surface
glaucous. The fragrant, pale yellow flowers are
produced from a few of the leaf-axils about the base
of the current year's wood, and each pair is enclosed
by two large green bracts which form a cup-like
receptacle. The flowers are upwards of an inch
in length and about three-quarters of an inch
across the mouth. A very dainty plant is found
in L. syringantha, a native of China. Growing
to a height of 5 feet or more, it is made up of many
slender branchlets, clothed with tiny oval leaves

L. microphylla is
after the style of L. syringantha, but the flowers are
smaller. It, however, has a similar elegant habit
and is a useful shrub. The Chinese and Mand-
shurian L. Maackii has created some considerable
attention during the last few years, owing to Messrs.
Veitch having exhibited well-flowered bushes on
several occasions among their new Chinese plants.
It is a vigorous-growing plant, attaining a height
of 10 feet or 12 feet, and producing its fra-
grant, white flowers with considerable freedom.
L. Ferdinandi, a strong-growing, wide-spreading
plant, is peculiar by reason of large ear-shaped
stipules which clasp the stem about each pair
of leaves. The yellow flowers appear from the leaf-
axils, but are continued to the points of the shoots,
thus forming terminal inflorescences. In many
other cases the flowers are restricted to the base
or centre of the shoots. L. translucens is a large,
dense-growing bush with cream-coloured flowers.
Its fruits are whitish when ripe, and they are so
transparent that the black seeds are easily seen
through their pulpy covering.

Quite different in colour from the rest of the
species are the flowers of L. Maximowiczii, a tall-
growing plant from Amurland. In this case the
flowers are purple. L. deflexicalyx is another
large-growing, spreading species, which bears yellow
flowers with considerable freedom. It forms a
good specimen plant, but must have abundance
of room. L. rupicola is distinct from other kinds,
for although its long, slender branches have a
somewhat scandent habit, it grows into a shapely
bush 5 feet to 6 feet high. The leaves are about
an inch long, ovate and dark green, and the flowers
are lilac in colour. A semi-evergreen species
is noticed in the Chinese L. pileata. This spreads
rapidly, but does not increase very fast in height ;
therefore plants may be 3 feet or 4 feet across,
but not more than r^ feet high. The flowers are
greenish white and fragrant. L. nitida is a charm-
ing little plant of compact habit, with tiny oval
leaves of an evergreen character. L. nigra and
L. Xylosteum, on the other hand, are large, vigorous
plants up to 15 feet high and as far across. Both
bear whitish, fragrant flowers.

The two winter-flowering species already referred
to should, of course, be grown, for any shrubs
which blossom during midwinter are valuable.
Then there are many other kinds of greater or
less merit available, but for most gardens a selection
of the foregoing species will be found sufficient to
include among other shrubs. D.

PROPAGATING WEIGELAS.

These useful flowering shrubs, now classed by the
Kew authorities as Diervillas, may be easily propa-
gated during the next few weeks by means of
cuttings. These should be made from the partly-
ripened side shoots, which are best slipped off with
a heel of the older wood attached. If this is
smoothed over with a sharp knife and the cuttings
planted in well-drained pots of sandy soil, and
these subsequently plunged in Cocoanut fibre refuse
and covered with bell-glasses, roots will quickly
form. When well rooted, the young plants must be
given an abundance of air and light. H,

312

THE GARDEN.

[June 21, 1913.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

THE BEST ROSES FOR HOUSI'
DECORATION.

* LTHOUGH iindoiibtedly there are some

f\ Roses better than others for lasting well

/ % when cut, it is a well-known fact that

/ % the quality of the blonms and the

^ *■ time at which they are cut are great

factors in promoting good lasting

conditions. A Rose devoid of substance and

weak m stem will rarely appear well in the

house, whereas the same variety from a well-

DO ROSES DETERIORATE?

Yes ; to a certain extent I think a few of
them do, and I will endeavour to point out
a cause of this later on. But undoubtedly
the chief impression of deterioration arises —
paradoxical as it may seem — from the wonderful
improvements among them during the past two or
three decades. Most of us who have closeh'
watched the behaviour of varieties propagated in
a reckless manner — by which I mean minus an>-
care or thought in selection — ^will agree that that
variety will surely deteriorate. We find similar
results in all phases of existence, no matter what
position in the world they may hold.

Scotch Briars. But is not this to be attributed to
position and culture ? Formerly they, with a
few Bourbons and Damasks, formed the chief Rose
display in our gardens, and so were naturally
accorded more favourable situations and culture
than is the general rule now. It is not that they
have deteriorated so much as the fact of their
relegation to some odd corner, with the natural
.consequence of less care and attention.

One more thought. Do we not often find a
new Rose come disappointingly inferior to those
blooms exhibited by the raiser ? In the first place,
he had the advantage of a large stock to choose
from, and, of course, showed his best. But a
great deal of this inferiority arises from the use of
every little fraction of growth in the desire to
increase stock for sale, all but the owner of the
stock plants having little choice of selection, and
using good, bad and indifferent wood to get as
many plants as possible while the price is high. 1
feel certain that not a few of our new Roses are
injured, as a family, by the excessive propagation
of all growth, even to the extent of increase
from plants that are already a mere travesty upon
the original. A. P.

ROSE MRS. C. REED, A NEW SILVERY PINK HYBRID TEA THAT IS VERY FRAGRANT.

cultivated plant may last a week. Rose blooms
should never be cut in the heat cf the day.
Early morning or late evening is best, and they
should be placed in deep jars of water im-
mediately they are severed from the plant.
If the foliage could be immersed, so much the
better, and I prefer to keep the blooms for a few
hours in a dark cupboard in a cool shed or cellar
before placing them in the house.

Roses should never be cut full-blown. Exhibitors
know this only too well. A Rose will grow in water,
so that if cut at the most in the half-open stage
it is best. A few good " stayers" are Frau Karl
Druschki, Mrs. John Laing, Ulrich Brunner, Mme.
.\bel Chatenay, Prince de Bulgarie, Sunburst,
Souvenir de Gustave Prat, Liberty, Antoine
Rivoire, Joseph Hill, Pharisaer, Hugh Dickson,
Countess of Derby, Walter Speed, Gloire Lyonnaise,
Jean Note, Joseph Lowe. Mrs. George Shawyer,
Lady Ashtown, Laurent Carle, Melanie Soupert,
Mme. Ravary. Mme. S'-gond Weber. Margaret,
Melody, Mrs. Aaron Ward, Mrs. David McKee,
White Maman Cochet, Mme. Hoste, Lady Roberts,
Paula, Molly Sharman Crawford and Mrs. Foley
Hobbs. There are many others, but this is a
good representative list. Danecroft.

But this does not wholly account for the evident
deterioration of that old favourite yellow climber
Marechal Niel. Here we seem to have gradually
lost the charming and healthy vigour so charac-
teristic of it thirty and rnore years ago. It is
much the same with Souvenir d'Elise Vardon and
Souvenir d'un Ami. I do not find the beauty and
size in these now, and this cannot be all fancy
when one refers to the dimensions recorded of
previous flowers, because our measurements have
not decreased in any way.

Far too often when propagating, one is some-
what loth to make use of the most superb growth
upon the plant, and this, I feel certain, works
steadily towards deterioration rather than not. It
is not alone the enthusiastic amateur who fails in
this way — most trade growers are chary in taking
the best from their stock ; and even when plants
are set on one side solely for propagation, the
constant hacking away of the fittest wood must
tend towards a more or less weakened constitution,
and thus we come to the conclusion that the variety
has deteriorated.

I am induced to give these few notes from a
remark of a friend the other day, who expressed
deep regret at the falling off of our Mosses and

A OOOD NEW ROSE.

The accompanying illustration represents a typical
bloom of the new Hybrid Tea Rose Mrs. C. Reed,
said to be a sport from the well-known Frau Karl
Druschki. When shown at the National Rose
Society's exhibition in London last year, this new-
comer received a silver-gilt medal, an award that,
we think, was fully justified. The flowers are of
silvery pink colour, very erect and, what is most
valuable of all, deliciously fragrant. The growth
is robust, somewhat after the style of Baroness
Rothschild, and the plants flower wonderfully
freely over a long period. We understand that
it will not be sent out before next year, but it is
a Rose to note for inclusion with older sorts when
it is obtainable. We are indebted to Mr. Elisha J.
Hicks of Twyford, Berks, for the photograph
reproduced herewith. Mr. Hicks exhibited a
number of flowers of this Rose at the Royal Horti-
cultural Society's meeting on the 3rd inst., when
their fragrance was freely commented upon.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON
VEGETABLES.

Brussels Sprouts.^It is high time that an
extensive quarter of this indispensable autumn
and winter vegetable was planted, and those who
have not yet made a start must put the work in
hand forthwith. That deep, friable, fertile soil is
essential to success none will dispute, but there
is little doubt that some amateurs and cottagers
use more natural manure than is really necessary.
However, this is a detail of management which
must be governed by the individual merits of a
case, and must, therefore, be left to the discretion
of the grower. The distance between the rows
and the plants in them will vary with the habit
of the variety grown, the old-fashioned, big ones
demanding 3 feet in all directions, whereas more
compact-growing modern varieties will be ade-
quately accommodated when the rows are 30 inches
asunder and the plants are allowed 24 inches in
them. The soil of the seed - bed should be
thoroughly watered the evening before planting
if the weather is dry, and similar treatment may
be meted out to the permanent quarters, though

June 21, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

313

in this case it is often only possible to soak the
particular positions that will be occupied by the
plants. It is wise to plant firmly, and to water in
directly afterwards.

Late Peas. — We must have Green Peas in the
garden until the latest possible date, and every
year there is something problematical in the results
which will be achieved irom sowings made between
the present date and the middle of July. It is,
HI my opinion, always worth while to sow a variety
such as Sutton's Early Giant during the last week
of this month. The seeds germinate quickly in
the warm soil, provided, of course, that it contains
enough moisture, the plants grow rapidly, and in
a favourable season will give a most welcome crop
of late Peas which will equal in flavour any of their
predecessors. When July sowings are made, it
is usually of a hard-seeded variety, and the quality
then drops considerably. The soil must be deeply
cultivated, in excellent heart and firm.

Asparagus. — With the present date the cutting
o( Asparagus ought not to be as hard as it has
previously been, and certainly the grower must
be perfectly sure that enough " grass " is retained
to build up strength in the crowns, or the results
ne.\t season will be the reverse of satisfactory.
Some cultivators have a rule never to cut the first
and second growths that push through the soil,
and it is an excellent system to
adopt, but demands more self-control
than many of us possess. See that
no weeds are permitted to grow, or
it will be most difficult, perhaps
impossible, to thoroughly cleanse the
bed before the tops are cut off in the
late autumn. With the advent of
July all cuttmg must cease if future
results are to be really good.

Celery. — The planting of Celery
should be proceeded with apace, and
the importance of closely observing
a few details cannot be over-
estimated. For example, suckers
spring from the rootstock, which, if
permitted to remain, will ruin the
plants ; while if the leaf-miner
works unchecked, debilitation will
be so severe that the plants can
never be excellent. The remedy for
the former trouble is obvious — the
suckers are cut off ; against the
leaf-miner dust the plants frequently
when they are damp with a
mixture of old soot and wood-ashes,
and there will be little about which
to worry. Then, too, the roots must
go into fresh soil, and not in the
possibly sour under soil that is
exposed in forming the trenches.
When the manure has been dug in,
add a layer of 3 inches or more of ex-
cellent soil to accommodate the roots,
and see that they never suffer from the want of
water.

Outdoor Tomatoes. — In favoured gardens the
Tomatoes for fruiting out of doors would be planted
at the beginning of the month, but in cold gardens
where the soil is heavy the present time will be
wisely chosen. The earUest plants should be
splendidly established, and will demand regular
attention in removing the axillary shoots to concen-
trate all the energy in the one stem. If the first
fruits are malformed, as so commonly occurs on
healthy, vigorous plants, let them be removed
without delay. !■'. R.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

A ROCK GARDEN FIVE MONTHS
AFTER CONSTRUCTION.

ONLY those who have actually carried
1 out the work of constructing a
I rock garden, or have watched the
work from the commencement,
know how quickly it can, with
judicious care, be clothed with
growing vegetation and made to appear as though
it had been in situ for many years. On a genial
day towards the end of April we availed oiKselves
of a long-standing invitation to see Mr. W. A.
Bilney's garden at Weybridge, and although it
is not a large one in the strict sense of the word,
we found it packed with interesting features from
end to end. The main reason for this is, un-
doubtedly, that Mr. Bilney does the greater part
of his gardening himself. As he is a member of
the Council of the Royal Horticultural Society,
we naturally expected to find it well done, and in
this we were not disappointed. But it was the
charming little rock garden that interested us most.
Constructed barely five months previously by
Messrs. Pulham and Son, and planted entirely
with Mr. Bilney's own hands, i- was a splendid

better, for large masses of it were ttmibling about
in riotous profusion, and each and all were gaily
clothed with the bright red, erect flower:>. Large
plants of Sun Roses, or Helianthemums, were full
of buds, and gave promise of a gorgeous display
later ; wliile such gems as Iris pumila, Arenaria
balearica and A. montana, Asia Minor Tulips,
Veronica repens, Polemoniura confertum meUitimi,
Cheiranthus Allioni, Corydalis nobilis, Pentstemon
Scouleri, Phlox setacea G. F. Wilson, Viola gracilis,
dozens of encrusted Saxifrages and many other
plants abounded on every hand. We think for
a rock garden of its size it would be difficult to
beat this example, both in construction and planting.

THE VARIEGATED GARLAND
FLOWER.

(Daphne Cneorum variegatum.)
Although not a great advocate of the cultivation
of plants with variegated leaves, one must say a
word or two in favour of Daphne Cneorum varie-
gatum. It is well known that the ordinary Garland
Flower is a troublesome plant with many, and
that it is frequently lost in a number of gardens.
It is asserted, and, so far as my experience goes,
with truth, that the variegated form is hardier,
or, at least, more easily ctdtivated for many years
than the green-leaved one. If this is the ease —

A ROCK GARDEN tlVii MONTHS Al'TtR IT WAS CONSTRUCTilU.

example of what loving care and enthusiasm can
do in so short a time ; and with a view to encouraging
others to go and do likewise we publish an illustra-
tion of part of it herewith. Unfortunately, rock
gardens do not lend themselves well to photo-
graphy, and the best of illustrations only convey
a rough idea of the general outline of construction
and the main features.

But this rock garden is really well stocked with
more or less choice plants, the majority of which ap-
peared quite at home and might have bten planted
for years. We have never seen that glorious
red Saxifrage, Saxifraga bathoniensis, doing

and the evidence on this pomt seems pretty Con-
clusive— -the variegated variety deserves some
attention from those fond of these choiming
Daphnes. The variegation is not at all obtrusive,
and is, though present, not noticeable without
a closer inspection of the plant than is necessary.
The grc.wth and habit are the same as those of the
ordinary Garland Flower, but it is a free and happy
grower even in places where D. Cneorum itself
dies off. I have here a good plant which has been
in this garden tor seven or eight years, and Mr.
W. J. Maxwell, Terregles Banks, Dumfries, lias a
beautilul specimen in full health on his rock garden.

314

THE GARDEN.

[June 21, 1913.

In May and June this Garland Flower is a picture,
with its charming pink or rosy lilac flowers. A
peaty, gritty soil is the best for it

Dumfries. S. Arnott.

SOME INTERESTING AQUATICS.
The Water Hawthorn (Aponogeton dis-

lachyon). — This delightful small-growing aquatic
has been flowering for some time, and is one
of the very best subjects that could be included
for any position in shallow water and where the
stream is not too fast. It continues to flower
more or less from now onwards through the summer
and autumn, and is perfectly hardy. The white
flowers, splashed with black anthers, float on the
surface, and are greatly admired. Especially
is this so when the plant can be situated close
to an overlooking bridge. The blooms have a

not far away from the edge of the banks. Unless
suitable pockets are made, as is often the case with
artilicially-constructed streams, the plants should
be sunk and fastened down to the mud, into which
they will soon establish themselves, by which time
their temporary receptacle, such as a wicker
basket or punnet, will have rotted away.

Pontaderia cordata. — The present month is
one of the best tmies for planting most water-
loving subjects, and it is not too late for this
summer-blooming plant. A colony near to the
bank, when estabhshed, forms an imposing sight.
Pontaderia cordata is commonly known as the
Water Plantain of Jamaica. It produces large,
handsome foliage, which stands out of the water
together with the spikes of deep blue flowers,
which are freely produced. P. cordata is
unique by reason of its colour, and is, therefore,
one of those subjects we cannot afford to be without.

PRFMULA INVOLUCRATA IN A
SCOTTISH ROCK GARDEN.

I HAVE long known and admired the charming
Primula involucrata, and have seen it now in a
goodly number of gardens, and always with a
growing appreciation of its beauty, yet it was only
a few days ago that I ever realised its absolute
charm, and this was through seeing it in the rock
garden of Mr. W. J. Maxwell at Terregles Banks,
Dumfries, where, in addition to other plants,
there is a nice group of P. involucrata in a hollow
formed by rockwork capped by Mossy Saxifrages
and other alpines. Looking across at this clump
of P. involucrata, one saw it with a backgroimd
of one of the larger white Mossy Saxifrages, and
could then realise the purity of the colour of the
flowers of the Primula. One would hardly expect
! a white Mossy Saxifrage to form a good background
for P. involucrata, but it did, and
the effect was indescribably beautiful.
It was a harmony, yet a contrast.
The Primula was very beautiful, the
stout stems carrying a number ol
perfect flowers of purest white, re-
deemed from absolute coldness by the
yellow eye. In Mr. Maxwell's garden
the drainage is absolutely perfect, and
even such a moisture-loving Primula
as this is appreciates the free run for
surplus water. S. A.

(KICHA

A

THE CREEPING SANDWORT (ARENARIA BALEARICA) IN THE ROCK GARDEN.

delicious fragrance, resembling Hawthorn, though
not so overpowering. Aponogeton distachyon is
also a splendid subject for a small pool or basin in
any house or conservatory where a greenhouse
temperature not too warm is maintained.

Golden Club (Orontium aquaticum).— This is

another aquatic that lovers of water gardening
should not fail to be without. Like the foregoing,
when once established there is no difficulty ex-
perienced with it ; but if taken care of, innumer-
able seedlings will in time be found round the
parent plant. Besides being particularly attrac-
tive when in bloom, with its broad, glaucous foliage
resting on the water and surmounted with its
spikes of rich golden yellow, another valuable
characteristic is that it commences to bloom con-
siderably in advance of any of the Water Lilies
and remains fresh for a long time. Orontium
aquaticum is a native of North America, and
succeeds best when planted in fairly shallow water

It will quickly establish itself near to the bank
so long as the roots are submerged.

Aldenham House. Edwin Beckett.

THE CREEPING SANDWORT.

(ARENARIA BALEARICA.)

This is an indispensable Sandwort for clothing
bare rocks and stones on the shady side of the rock
garden. It clings closely to the rocks, forming
a carpet of green, which, in early summer, is
smothered with dainty white flowers. So long as
this Sandwort is not exposed to the full sun it will
clothe the largest rocks with its clinging foliage.
It needs only a glance at the accompanying
illustration to get an idea of its mode of growth
and freedom of flowering. It is quite a good subject
for clothing the rocks in association with hardy
Ferns or other shade-loving plants. It is a native
of Corsica and was introduced as far back as 1787.

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATE 1473.

4 NEW DWARF YELLOW
ARUM LILY.

RicHARDiA Mrs. Roosevelt.)
T one time the only Arum
Lily at all extensively
grown was Richardia
africana, otherwise known
as the Lily of the Nile or
white Arum, a very elegant
and still a deservedly popular plant.
The yellow Arums are of later intro-
duction ; the two species R. elUottiana
and R. Pentlandii, the latter with a
deep purple-brown blotch at the base
of the spathe, each created a mild
sensation when shown for the first
time. In the variety Mrs. Roosevelt
we have the most recent introduction,
and it is claimed to be the only yellow Arum
suitable as a garden plant. The light yellow
flowers and beautifully-spotted foliage make it an
object of interest and beauty. It is a plant that
cannot fail to arrest attention, and when seen
in a group it creates a remarkably fine effect.
It is quite free-flowering, and does well in almost
any garden, more especially where the soil is rich
and supplied with plenty of moisture. The
growers of hardy flowers have the highest opinion
of this plant. Not only is it easily grown, but it
continues to flower for eight or ten weeks during the
summer months. The following cultural notes will,
it is hoped, prove helpful to those who contemplate
the inclusion of this novelty in their gardens.
The tubers are perfectly hardy, and should be
planted in a moist situation, hberal supplies of
water being necessary throughout the growing
season. When dormant, the tubers should be
covered with about two inches of soil, to which

Supplement to THE GARDEN, J urn 215/, 191 3

The New Yellow Arum Lily
Mrs. T. H. Roosevelt.

. Ltd., Printers, London. S.E.

June 21, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

315

decayed manure should be added from time
to time as growth advances. By following
out this plan the roots are kept both warm
and moist, and provide just the conditions
for growth that are necessary in the spring of
the year.

This m-vv .\rum, as its name implies, originated
in America, and when shown at St. Louis received
a gold medal. Since then the Dutch Bulb
Growers' Association have granted it a first-class
certificate. A number of nurserymen in this
country, and also on the Continent, now
hold good stocks of it, for which, when its
merits become better known, we think there
will be a large demand. Un-
fortunately, owing to the large sire
of the foliage, the colomred
plate does not show the charac-
teristic gracefulness of the plant,
which needs to be seen grow-
ing to appreciate its beauty
to the full.

flower, 7 feet to 8 feet ; and E. Olgae, pink, about
three feet high. The plants of the other group
have flowers of yellow or yellowish colour and are
of lower stature. The most useful of these are
E. aurantiacus, from .Afghanistan ; E. Bungei, a
Persian plant, rather tender ; and the quite hardy
E. spectabilis. None of these exceed a height of
3 feet.

The strap-shaped foliage of the Eremuri is all
radical, and does not in itself make much effect.
It is well to group near them plants with leafage
of a different class md of bold effect, and with
flowers whose coloi ; will neither clash with nor
overpower the te ider colouring of the giant spikes.

FLOWER GARDEN.

T

EREMURI IN THE WILD
GARDEN.

I HE larger of the Eremuri
are fine plants for the
outskirts of the garden,
or preferably for well-
sheltered, sunny places
in tliin woodland where
tliis adjoins the garden. Their
wliole aspect is so surprising and
the height of the giant flower-stem
so great that they are out of scale
with ordinary garden plants ;
moreover, the one that is most
generally grown, E. robustus, has
large roots that radiate hori-
zontally, much like a cart-wheel
without the tyre, so that each
plant requires an uninvaded root
space of 5 feet diameter. .Although
so large, the roots are of a
brittle texture, easily broken ;
they are impatient of any dis-
turbance and need careful handling
at planting-time. This should
be when the plants are not more
than three years old. They enjoy
deep, sandy loam, well drained
and well enriched, and are thankful
for a protective winter mulch. The
grouping as shown in the
picture is a little scattered ; it
is best, whenever possible, so to
place them that the group tells more
or less as one mass from the spectator's point
of view. In the case of plants such as these, whose
nature of root prevents their being planted near
together, the effect of good grouping can be obtained
by having the length of the group running front
and back, or, better still, diagonally to the path
from the chief point of sight, rather than at intervals
along both sides of the path.

E. robustus rises to a height of lo feet. There
are others of the genus that can also be grown
anywhere to the South of London. For garden
grouping and good colour arrangement they
fall into two groups, viz., E. robustus, flowers
pale pink ; E. himalaicus, with a beautiful white

a division of Lathyrus, which they closely resemble,
differing, however, in having no tendril at the tip of
the petiole. Their culture is easy ; any good soil
and a fairly sunny position fulfil their requirements.
They can be increased by division in spring.

Some of the best varieties are : O. vemus, with
violet and blue flowers in AprU and May, grows
about one foot high. O. v. roseus also flowers
at the same time as O. vemus. It grows about
fifteen inches high and is suited for the front of
the border, where a good clump makes a pretty
show ; it is one of the nicest spring-flowering plants
we have. O. aurantiacus is of spreading growth,
with pale green fohage and orange flowers that open
in June. O. varius is a charming
plant, growing about eighteen
inches to two feet high. It has
long, narrow, glaucous leaves, and
bears spikes of sulphur and orange
red flowers, an uncommon com-
bination of colour. O. lathyroides
is a plant that should be in every
collection. It is a strong, erect
grower, 2 feet to 3 feet in height,
and bears spikes of lovely deep
blue flowers in June and July.
This variety is easily raised from
seed, making nice plants the
second season ; they vary sUghtly
in colour, however.

E. G. Davison.
Westwick Gardens, Norwich,

SOMU GOOD UNCOM-
MON HARDY PLANTS.

Sedum amplexicaule. — A very
uncommon and most interesting
Sedum. I saw it for the first time
in Mr. Simpson Hayward's lovely
rock garden near Stow-on-the-
Wold, and I believe he was the
collector of this gem. It is a
miniature Sedum, with lovely
glaucous fohage and cle.ir yellow
Sowers ; very valuable for the
moraine. At certain periods of the
year it curls up like the Rose of
Jericho and appears quite dead,
and in spring it breaks out
again and thrives beautifully
Propagated by division. Flowers
in June.

Phlox subulata Lady Tbisel-

ton-Dyer. — Undoubtedly the gem
of subulata Phloxes after Phlox
Vivid, from which it is quite
distinct. The flowers are a beauti-
ful rose pink, with a distinct
carmine eye. They are smaller
than those of P. Vivid, but
Such would be the great Heradetmis, of which j are much more freely produced. Easily propagated
H. mantegazziantmi is much the best, and the 1 by cuttings or layers. Flowers in May.
ornamental Rhubarbs. These should be at the j Sedum Willisii. — A good and imcommon
back, and, more forward, such plants as the larger Sedum, with foliage very like Sedum obtusatum,
of the hardy Ferns, Rodgersia podophylla, with its but it is of quite prostrate habit and has clear
handsome red bronze leaves of Horse Chestnut yellow flowers, which are very effective upon the
shape, and the bold form and tender pink bloom red-tinted foliage. Flowers in June. Propagated
of Saxifraga peltata, with a background to all of by division.
trees of dark foUage. G. Jekyll. Dianthus deltoides x csesius. — A good new

Dianthus. A very healthy grower and showing

SOME USEFUL HARDY PLANTS, distinctly both of the parents. It grows about
Many species of the genus Orobus should be nine inches high, with flowers much darker than
represented in those gardens where herbaceous D. csesius and not fimbriated. Flowers in June
plants are treasured. They are classed by some as and easily propagated by cuttings.

AN EFFECTIVE GROUPING OF EREMURI
WILD G.\RDEN'.

IN THE WOODLAND OR

316

THE GARDEN.

[June 21, 1913.

Antbemis cupaniana. — For a bold effect on a
large rockery this cannot be surpassed. In general
appearance it resembles a bedding Marguerite.
It has a prostrate habit and nice grey foliage ;
very free-growing. Flowers in May, when the
plant is covered with pure white blossoms.
Propagated by cuttings.

Antbemis nobilis flore pleno. — A plant that

will rival, if not surpass, the ordinary Pearl (Achillea
Ptarmica flore pleno). It is of neat habit and
suitable for the rockery. About one foot in
height and covered with double Daisy-like flowers
about three-quarters of an inch in diameter. A
very continuous flowerer and a very showy plant.
Flowers in June and July. Propagated easily by
cuttings.

Epilobium macropus New Zealand.— A gem
among miniature Epilobiums, with neat foliage, dark
in colour, marbled with white. The flowers are
white, about half an inch in diameter, and very
floriferous. It far surpasses in every way E.

of flowers, many of them actually grown by
those champions of the past — Hepworth, Holmes,
Mellor and Gill. There was Hand Drum (Andro-
meda), which had probably been covered and
uncovered again and again by old George (Gill)
as he sat in his little workshop thinking partly
of his boots and partly of the weather. Every
shower of rain and every gleam of sun the plodding
enthusiast noted, and then with almost electric
swiftness he would run out and give his beloved
blooms the exact treatment they required.

The room was the same. The flowers were
the same. Yet perhaps not altogether. Were
there any breeders there in the days of long ago ?
Even now, stern old James Knowles will not
countenance them in his garden. This ancient
veteran won the copper kettle (the blue ribbon
of Tulipdora) in i860 with the celebrated Poly-
phemus. With him as it was then, so it must be
now, and so it ever will be ; hence I rather think
the advent of the breeder (or self colour) in such

AN OLD-FASHION'ED TULIP SHOW AT WAKEFIELD.

nnmmularifohus and E. Hectori. It loves a moist,
shady soil, flowers in July, and is easily propagated
by division. E. C. Bowell.

NOTES ON TULIPS.

1 HAVE never had a more interesting floral
experience than that which it was my good
fortune to have on Monday, the second day
of the present month of June. I then
attended as an honoured guest the show
of the Wakefield Amateur Tulip Society. For
seventy-eight years without a single break this
annual show has been one of the more or less
important events in the life of this city, or, as I
would prefer to call it, this ancient town. Seventy-
eight years prepares us for something old, and in
very truth it almost seems, looking back on the day,
that I was the only modern thing there. There
was the same old venue, the big room of the
Brunswick Hotel. There were the same old varieties '

nurnbors as the present schedule provides for is
one of those modern innovations which would
make many now dead and gone turn in their graves
at the sad falling from grace of their spiritual
descendants. Yes ; the same old room. Almost
the same old flowers ; the same old bottles. One
very old bottle, it is interesting to observe, was
placed in front of one of the " pans " (the technical
word in Tulipise for stand, probably dating back to a
time when the receptacles for showing the threes
and sixes in were of earthenware) has certainly
been in existence for a hundred years, probably
many more, for they were well used when Abraham
Holmes, the Parish Clerk, took over the duties
of the secretaryship in 1835 and dated everything
from his acceptance of oflice. Even the modern
octagonal ones, Jesse Hardwick, an ex-secretary,
told me had known thirty-five shows.

The judging, too, was a relic. Downstairs sat
the secretary (Mr. Irving Whitworth) and the

competitors. Up above Messrs. Needham and
Netherwood adjudicated, and as the prizes were
awarded, down the successful pan or bottle was
sent for their approval or disapproval. History
does not relate what would happen if it was
the latter. Were they all James Knowles's, there
would be something " strong " said, I am siure,
and Mr. Needham would have got it worse.
than he did when the Peggs (a variety caUedj
Elizabeth Pegg) he kindly sent as a present '
did not turn out all that they were expected
to do.

The single bloom, or what may be called the
bottle, classes are, naturally, judged according
to Tulip custom. This is peculiar, as far as 1
know, to the flower, and not to Wakefield. Still,
a brief explanation may be interesting. No one
may take more than two prizes in any one class,
but he may enter as many blooms as he likes.
Frequently a man will put up ten or a dozen.
What happens then is this : Each lot is arranged
in rows, as may be seen behind the front row of
prize-winners on this page. The judges select
from everyone's lot the best two. When these
are all picked out, the best four, six, or eight,
as the case may be, are picked out and judged
in the usual way. Naturally, judging is a long
process. This particular show suffered, I am
sorry to say, from the vagaries of our changeable
climate. Fifteen members had entered and duly
paid up their 4s. When they met in early May,
they had little but hard, green buds, and it was
settled to have a late date. A short spell of hot,
bright, dry weather came. Everyone's blooms
were hurried out in a half-grown state. Very
many were entirely spoiled, and so only nine
out of the fifteen actually staged.

The large silver medal for the best pan of six
was won by the secretary (Mr. Irving Whitworth).
He had a grand example of Coningsby Castle, a
feathered byblcemen, which had just passed its
best, or it would have won the silver Rose bowl
for the best flower in the whole show. His success
would have been popular. He is, comparatively
and figuratively speaking, a young grower. Thir-
teen years ago he only looked at them over a gate
as they were blooming in a neighbour's garden.
With true missionary zeal, that aforesaid neighbour
set him up with a small collection, and ever since
he has been a keen cultivator, while six years
back he took over the secretarial office from Mr.
Jesse Hardwick, who had to relinquish it owing
to advancing years, but who was still hale and
hearty, and who on this occasion (June 2) celebrated
his forty-fourth time of exhibiting by winning the
prizes for the best flamed and the best breeder
witli magnificently-coloured examples of Sir
Josepli Paxton, grown in his quarry garden at
Normanton. The best " feather " was a sweet
little example of William Wilson, a lovely bizarre,
with blackish brown markings on lemon yellow.
The Tulip Society of Wakefield can justly boast
of its ancient lineage, its famous names (among
which that of Hepworth is still one to conjure
with) and its strains. The Wakefield Paxton at
its best is simply grand, and even now knows no
superior. I fully appreciate all this ; but regarding
tile society with the practical eye of matter-of-fact
utility, I venture to think that by no means the
least important reason which justly fills it with
pardonable pride is the part it must play in the
lives of the humble toilers, who compose 95 per cent,
of its membership. Long life to the society ; a
long term of office to the secretary ; a long list of
keen members ; many imitators. Joseph Jacob.

June 21, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

317

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO LAYER STRAWBERRIES.

THE successful cultivator of these plants,
whether in pots for forcing or in open
borders in the garden, must not delay
in getting a well-rooted stock of
young plants. Frequently there is no
attempt made to layer runners until
all I 111 fruits are gathered from the old plants.
Such a delay is disastrous, because it is not possible
to secure plants that are sufficiently well rooted
to support a strong crown which will contain in
embryo a large truss of flowers. Plants badly
rooted cannot withstand forcing, and those in open
borders cannot develop into fine specimens by the
following fruiting season.

The Best Time to conmience the work of layering
is directly the first plants on the runners from the
parent stock are large enough. Even if the old
plants are ripening fruits, no damage need be
done to the latter if ordinary care be taken.
How to Prepare for Layering. — The runners

must not bf touched before the actual day of
. layering, but both pots and compost should be
got ready. Small but deep pots are best for
both purposes — layering for forcing aud also for
new plantations — but where such pots are very
scarce, small squares of turf which have been cut
about three months are very serviceable. The
pots must be quite clean, especially the insides of
them, so that when turned out in due course the
roots will not adhere to the sides and be broken
off. The best compost is made up as follows :
Turfy loam, two parts ; leaf-soil, one part ; horse-
manure, which has been turned over daily for a
week, one part. Some sand may be added, but
it is not really necessary. Clear away weeds
from around the parent plants, and then carefully
draw out the best runners, removing every young
plant from each runner except the one nearest the
parent plant.

Fig. A. — No. I shows the parent plant, and
Nos. 2, 2, the runners made ready for layering.
No. ^ depicts how each yoimg plant must be made
secure in a small pot, either by pegging down or

VARIOUS METHODS Ol- LAYERING STR.\WBERRIES.

by laying a fairlv large, flat stone on it. Stones
help to maintain moisture in the soil in the pots,
and thus hasten root action. It is best to bury
the pots well in the ground, as shown, because, if
knocked over, the runners in them are loosened
and delayed in forming roots. Water regularly
in dry weather through a fine-rosed watering-can.
No. 4 shows a square of turf — about four inches
square — and No. 5 a small hole in the centre.
Into this hole place the runner plant, and cover
with fine soil and a stone. No. 6 depicts the young
plant well rooted in the turf and ready for potting
or planting out. Nos. 7 and 8 illustrate the
deep pots, and No. 9 the runner plant severed
from the parent when rooted, as shown in No. 8 pot.
Fig. B. — The new plantation is shown at No. i,
the plants being put otit 18 inches apart in rows
2 feet asunder. Trench the ground 24 inches
deep and well break up the lumps ; if poor in

A NEW STRAWBERRY PLANTATION.

quality, add a liberal quantity of rotted manure,
and immediatelv surface mulch with half-rotted
manure.

Putting Layered Plants in Fruiting Pots. —

No. 2 shows a fruiting pot 6^ inches across.
Very careful crocking is essential. Many crocks
need not be used, but those put in should be carefully
placed. No. 3 depicts the ball of soil of a young
plant laid on the rougher material in the large pot,
and No. 4 the young plant as it appears when potted.
Pot firmlv, leaving a space of ij inches.

Autumn and Winter Positions. — Take the
plants direct from the potting-bench to the sunniest
position available, using boards to place the pots
on. Give clear water only, but never neglect
the watering, though it is unwise to unduly soak
the soil. I water with diluted liquid manure
when the pots are well filled with roots, so as to
get the central crowns well plumped up. In winter
place the pots close together in blocks, packing
ashes, leaves, or litter round them, but not covering
the tops, unless severe frosts occur. Boards
fixed on edge, as shown at Nos. 5 and 6, will keep
the block of plants and materials tidy. The
central crown. No. 7, is the most important. All
side crowns, Nos. 8, 8, must be removed while
quite small. For the final potting use good loam
and horse-manure. Solent.

SHADING THE GREENHOUSE.

Very few greenhouses have a full complement of
climbers on the roofs. It is not wise to h.ive a too
shady structure if fine pot plants are to be grown
on the stages. The house, however, which has
an almost bare roof — one devoid of climbers — is
much hotter than a vinery, or even a plant stove.
I strongly advise cultivators to lightly shade their
bare-roofed greenhouses (except where Tomatoes
are grown) and help the plants to make a healthy
growth. There are many suitable compositions
and materials advertised in The Garden, and a
good home-made shading is a mixture of butter-
milk and whiting. Never use lime, as it destroys
the paint. G. G.

318

THE GARDEN.

[June 21, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Watering. — In the event of hot, dry weather,
the recently-planted subjects will need a good deal
of attention to give them a fair start, I do not
favour too much artificial watering where it can
be avoided, but one must not allow the plants
to stand still or go back for the sake of a good
soaking or two. Soft-growing subjects, such as
Fuchsias and Coleus, are very much benefited
by a spray overhead each evening.

The Herbaceous Borders.
Paeonies and Aquilegias that are going out of

bloom should have the stale flower-heads removed,
in the case of the first-named shortening the leaf-
growth back a little to give the other occupants
of the borders more space.

Delphiniums throwing up their spikes should
be neatly staked, and as these are fairly gross
feeders, one or two waterings %vith liquid manure
will do them good, or even on very light soil a
mulching of short manure will prolong the flower-
ing season considerably. This mulching of short
manure may with advantage be given to many
subjects, especially where the plants have not
been shifted for a year or two, and Phloxes, Asters,
Helianthuses and Rudbeckias will all show their
appreciation by an increased vigour in their growth
and a longer season of blooming,

Violas. — To maintain a show of bloom through
the summer, this beautiful subject must not be
neglected. Dead blooms and seed-pods must be
removed regularly, going over the plants at least
once a week. A little Clay's Fertilizer sprinkled
among the plants during showery weather will
do much to help them maintain the deep green in
their foliage which is such a grand offset or contrast
to the flowers, no matter what colour these are.

Polyanthuses. — Many people sow these during
February and March in boxes, and though they are
somewhat slow-growing in the early stages, they
should be quite ready for pricking out in beds on
the border by this time.

Plants Under Glass.

Chrysanthemums. — If not already done, all
plants should be spaced out and staked, giving
as much room between them as space will allow.
Two feet should be the minimum, though 3 feet
each would be better, and in the case of decorative
varieties and singles this would ensure them
making nice shapely plants with well-ripened
wood.

Stopping. — After this week no varieties of
decorative and singles should be stopped, unless
it is one or two of the dwarf-growing varieties
which are to be flowered in small pots, A few of
the Japanese varieties, such as J, H. Silsbury,
Master James, White Queen, Queenie Chandler
and others that are very early on crown-buds,
if stopped now will give good flowers from
November i to November 10.

Malmaison Carnations. — Plants from which
the flowers have been cut may be placed in a cold
frame preparatory to layering, giving them frequent
syringings to clear them of spider, should any be in
evidence.

Potting On. — Plants intended for potting on
should also be cleaned, and if space is available
in the houses or frames, they may be potted at
once. Nine-inch pots should be large enough to
carry them through the second season, using a
moderately open compost, which should be well
rammed to induce a very stocky growth. After
potting, the plants should be lightly syringed
overhead in the afternoon of very hot days, while
the stages and paths should be frequently damped.
Shade also must be given during the heat of the
day, but only sufficient to keep the foliage a good
colour and to keep the soil from drying out too
quickly.

Tuberous Begonias that are well rooted and
throwing up bloom should be fairly liberally
fed with liquid manure, occasionally giving a pinch
of guano to each plant. Give plenty of air and
sufficient moisture to keep the plants in good health
and free from insect pests. If thrips appear,
fumigate lightly on two or three successive evenings,
and this should quite rid them of this pest.

The Kitchen Garden.

Parsley. — A sowing should now be made to
provide a supply for the late autumn and winter
months. Should the weather be very dry, mats
may be put over the seed-bed after watering in.
This will help the germination, but the mats must be
taken off as soon as the seedlings appear.

French Beans. — Continue to make sowings of
these to keep up the supply into the autumn.
Those coming into bearing must be liberally
supplied with water, should the weather be hot
and dry, or the crop will be a short one.

Runner Beans. — Early-planted batches or rows
are growing freely, and mulching with long litter
will help to conserve the moisture ; and to get a
good and early set of pods the plants must not be
allowed to get dry, and a good syringing overhead
will help them considerably.

Fruits Under Glass.

The Orchard-House. — .\pples. Plums and Pears
are fast swelling their fruit, and great care will
be needed in watering. Liquid manure may be
given freely, alternating this with an occasional
dressing of artificial manure. The syringe must be
freely used morning and evening to keep down
insect pests, giving an abundance of air during
the day. Unless it is necessary to hurry the
trees, it is not advisable to shut the house up close
either day or night.

Peaches ripening in pots may with advantage
be placed on the shady side of the house, a steady
ripening process often resulting in better-flavoured
fruit.

Hardy Fruits.

Aphis. — Seldom have I known hardy fruit so
badly infested with fly as during the past month,
and though the trees have been syringed several
times, they are still badly infested. About the
only way of keeping it under is to frequently give
the trees good washings down with the garden hose.

Strawberries. — Late varieties, such as Givon's
Late Prolific, Laxton's Latest and Waterloo,
will be greatly benefited by a good soaking or two
of liquid manure. The former variety is probably
the best of all late Strawberries, for though it
does not give as heavy a crop at one time as do
many other varieties, its continuity of fruiting
makes it quite indispensable.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Lifting Narcissi. — The foliage of the earlier varie-
ties will now have died down, and, if it is intended
to lift any of them for the purpose of division, or
in order to give them a change of soil, the sooner
this is done after the foliage has thoroughly ripened
the better. Spread the bulbs out in the sun,
to perfect the ripening process, and then separate
the offsets of varieties which it is intended to increase
as far as possible. Keep in a cool, dry place
till wanted for planting.

Top-dressing Phloxes. — The herbaceous Phloxes
are surface rooters, and are much benefited by
receiving a top-dressing during the course of the
summer ; the best time to apply it is just when
the roots begin to show on the siu-face. Good
loam forms the ideal top-dressing for them, but
old potting soil, slightly enriched, will suit them
quite well. Phloxes are among the first things to
suffer for the lack of water in dry weather.

Sweet Violets. — Where young plantations of
these have been made, they will now be growing
freely. While I would recommend it for all and
sundry, it is imperative in the case of plants intended
for forcing that all runners be pinched out at an
early stage.

The Rock Garden.
Propagating Cheiranthus.— What one may

term the alpine Wallflowers are highly suitable
for the rock garden. Those well known to me are
C. Marshallii (deep orange), C. ochroleucus (pale
yellow), and C. mutabilis, with its now improved
form, C. m. purpurea. As soon as cuttings of
these are obtainable, they should be taken, prepared,
inserted in pots of sandy soil and stood in a close
frame or pit.

The Wall Garden.

Thinning Seedlings. — Where seed was sown
in the spring the seedlings will require thinning,
and the extent to which this will have to be done
will depend upon the character of the subject
in hand and the results of germination. The work
should be done during showery or dull weather,
and if these conditions do not obtain, water both
before and immediately after the operation.

Watering. — The next two months vn\l be the
most trying period of the year for the wall garden,
and unless it takes the form of a retaining wall,
a good deal of artificial watering will be required
if the weather is at all dry.

Plants Under Glass.
Staking Chrysanthemums. — The work of final

potting will now be over, and, if not already done,
the plants should be placed in their summer quarters
and fully staked. Those grown for large blooms
may be placed in a line or lines running east and
west, the stakes to be tied to a strand of wire
stretched along the line. If a board on edge is run
along in front of the pots, it will save much watering
and keep the ball of soil more equable both as
regards moisture and temperature. Bush plants
can be arranged as incUcated above, tying two oi
the stakes to the strand of wire.

Libonias. — L. floribunda and L. penrhosiensis,
although not showy, are two very attractive
greenhouse sub--shrubs. Plants that were rooted
early in spring should now be ready for a shift into
5-inch pots, which are quite large enough for these
plants the first season. Equal parts of fibrous loam
and good flaky leaf-mould with a little sand and
a dash of bone-meal will form a suitable compost
for them. A cold frame is the best place for them
until the middle of September.

Salvia Heerii. — This Salvia is very showy in the
conservatory in the spring. Cuttings rooted in
heat in spring should from May onwards receive
the same treatment as bush Chrysanthemums.

Fruits Under Glass.

Late Melons. — if vigorous plants are in readiness,
a second batch may be planted to succeed the early
crop. The glass and woodwork should be
thoroughly cleaned before introducing the new
soil and young plants.

Figs in Pots. — Unless they are pinched, Figs
in pots are apt to make "too gross growth, thus
depriving the fruit of its due amount of nutriment.
The cultivator must, of course, be guided by the
vigour of the shoots. Continue to feed moderately
till the fruits have attained their full size.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Summer Spraying. — Mr. E. Molyneux has
forestalled me on this subject by his valuable
contribution on page 272 of the issue of May 24.
to which I would re-direct the attention of Apple-
growers. It is by no means too late to give attention
to this matter in Scotland, but no time should be
lost.

Pinching. — Fruit trees often exhibit great
irregularity of vigour. When this is the case, a
judicious system of pinching should be adopted,
as by this means not only is much waste of energy
saved, but the balance of growth is more or less
maintained.

The Vegetable Garden.

Planting Broccoli. — if not already done, the
ground should be prepared for this crop and the
work of planting proceeded with. Autumn Broccoli
may be richly manured, but that for spring use
should be planted in only moderately enriched
soil, and in as open a situation as possible. Smear
the roots with a mixture of soil, cow-manure and
sulphur ; this will help to ward off the attacks
of the maggot.

Celery must on no account be allowed to become
dry at the root, and if the foliage is dusted with
soot from time to time, the Celery fly will, in all
probability, be kept at bay.

Planting Leeks. — The main crop should now
be ready for planting out. The Leek requires
liberal cultivation and is partial to nitrogenous
manures. Length of blanch is the thing to be aimed
at, and this can be obtained by drawing drUls
as for Potatoes. Then plant with a blunt dibble in
the bottom of the drills, make deep holes, and only
fill in sufficient soil to cover the roots.

Charles Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

June 21, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

319

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
make The Gakden helpjul to all readers who desire assist-
ance, 7«) matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely ivriUen on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to ani/ designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more thari one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letter^-
on business should be sent to the PuPMSnER

FLOWBR GARDBN.

SPOTS ON DELPHINIUM LEAVES (G. R. 7.)-— The
dark spots are miuute particles of soot. The foliage
appears to have been damaged by water containing
poisonous gases in solution, such as is very frequently the
case where smelting furnace flames escape into the air.

PYRETHRUMS DAMAGED {Ascot).— Vi^ suspect an
insect is laying its eggs in the stems of the Pyrethrums,
but they are in too dried a condition to enable us to say
with certainty what the cause may be. Can you watch
after dark and send iis further sppciraens, packed so that
they will not dry up ?

SWEET PEAS FOR EXHIBITION {8. C.).— As far as
exhibiting is concerned, your Sweet Peas are, with four
exceptions, hopelessly out of date, and improvements
might easily be made for garden decoration. Since
you do not purpose to exhibit until next year, your best
plan will be to wait until the end of August and write
again. The experience of the present season will enable
an up-to-date selection to be given.

VIOLETS GONE WRONG {M. H. ^.).— The Violets
are attacked by the very troublesome fungus Phyllosticta
violae. This fungus has sticky spores, which are liable to
be carried on cuttings and to infest frames where the plants
are grown, and it is exceedingly difficult to eradicate
when once it has got a footing. The best means to adopt
is probably to dig up and burn all the affected plants
and start afresh, but if it is desired to try to keep them
going, spraying with potassium sulphide (Iob. to three
gallons of water) will probably be the best thing to do.

DISEASE IN VIOLAS (7;/ord).~VioIas not infrequently
suffer from the attack of a fungus belonging to the genus
Fusarium, which causes the sudden wilting and death of
the plant in the way you describe. Nothing can be done
when once a plant is attacked, for the (unpus is inside the
plant and quite inaccessible. Spraying is useless, but
the fungus gains entrance from the soil, and the growth
of Violas year after year in the same soil is very liable
to bring about the spread of the trouble, as is propagation
in old soil. This points the way to prevention, and the
use of lime in the soil will also be an aid.

THE GRBBNHOUSE.

CHRYSANTHEMUM FLY (/i/ord).— The plants arc
attacked by the larvse of the Chrysanthemum fly (Napto-
myza lateralis), which burrows into the leaf. The fly is
a small, two-winged one, and its visits may be checked, to
some extent at least, by spraying the plant, say, in April
(at end) with a paraflQn emiUsion. Where only a few plants
are to be dealt with, pinching the affected leaves between
the fingers and thumb will kill the larvae, and it is said that
nicotine washes will also effect the same result by acting
through the epidermis.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS INFESTED BY THE LEAF-
MINING MAGGOT {W. G.).— During the past two years
the leaf-mining maggot has done much damage to Chrysan-
themums in different parts of the country. Some varieties
are more liable to attack than others. It is well to care-
fully examine the leaves weekly from their cutting stage,
and crush any maggots found ; also to syringe the foliage
^■very fortnight with petroleum emulsion at the rate of a
wineglassful to a gallon of water. The oil must be vigor-
ously stirred iu the water, and whea applying the liquid,
forcibly return two syringefuls to the vessel to every
syringeful sprayed on the leaves. The best time for
the syringing to be done is during the evening. This
mixture should be applied to unaffected as well as to
affected plants.

DISEASED LEAVES OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS (B.
Worle). — The leaves which you send for our inspection
are badly attacked by " rust." All leaves that are in a
similar condition should be removed and burned at once,
as they will, if left on the stems, soon shrivel up and
spread the disease to sound leaves. Procure from a
chemist an ounce of sulphide of potassium. Dissolve half

the quantity in rain-water, and then add it to half a gallon
of rain-water, syringing the solution on every leaf and
portion on both sides. To accomplish this, lay the plants
on tlieir sides on a mat, turning each specimen over until
all parts are thoroughly wetted. The remaining half an
ounce of sulphide stiould also be dissolved in a similar
c|uantity of water and kept in an earthenware vessel,
to be syringed on tiie plants fortnightly as they stand in
the rows. This will tend to keep the leaves free from
nist.

ORCHIDS FOR A COOL GREENHOUSE (Avon).—
To be sufccessful with Orchids, the temperature should not
fall below 45* or 50° Falir., the former figures only being
recorded during severe weather, when no harm will accrue
if the atmosphere is fairly dry. Unless you can command
the above temperatures, we do not advise you to begin
growing Orchids. If you can, you might begin with a
small quantity of Odontoglossum crispum, as two plants
rarely produce flowers exactly alike : also Odontogiossums
luteo-purpureum.amabilctriumphans, Pescatorei,nBevium,
andersonianum, gloriosum, Hallii, wilckeanum, percultum
and ardentissimum, while others could be bought in flower ;
Cypripedium insigne varieties, Cymbidium lowianum,
Lycaste Skinneri, Masdevaliia, coccinea varieties; Disa
Luna, D. sagittalis, Pleurothallis Roezlii, Odontioda
Charlesworthi. O. Bradshawige. O. lambeaulanum, Zygo-
petalum Mackayi, Epidendnim vitellinum and Cattleya
citrina.

RIPPEASTRUMS (H. C. 5.).— After flowering, Hippeas-
trums should be encouraged to grow freely, as upon this
the future display of blossoms depends. They must be
removed into a structure kept warmer than an ordinary
greenhouse, the best place being the coolest part of the
stove or an intermediate house. It is very necessary to keep
them well supplied with water, but an excess must, of
course, be avoided. An occasional dose of liquid manure,
or one of the many concentrated plant foods now so
popular, will be beneficial. With this treatment the plants
will grow freely and the bulbs increase in size. By the
end of July or thereabouts they will have perfected their
gro^vth, or nearly so, when they may be removed to a
frame or a greenhouse. As they will have been shaded
when in the warmer structure, it will be necessary to
continue this for a little time till the tissues of the leaves
get firm. Then they may be fully exposed to the sun,
in order to ripen the bulbs. As the leaves turn yellow
and show signs of going to rest, the water supply must be
lessened, and when the bulbs are absolutely dormant it
may be discontinued for a time. They should be kept
during the winter in a temperature of 50*^ to 60", and about
the end of January a little water may be given, to be
increased as the plants grow.

DWARFED JAPANESE TREES (£. W. R. P.).— We
do not know of any book dealing witli the Japanese
method of dwarfing trees, but a good work on the different
species of Cactus is " Cactus Culture for Amateurs," by
W. Watson, Curator of the Botanic Gardens, Kew. Briefly,
the Japanese dwarf trees are obtained by growing them
in such a manner that they only receive sufficient nourish-
ment to keep them alive. This practice is followed from
the earliest stages, and commences, in the case of many
plants raised from seed, by shortening back the tap root
and lea\ing just a few fibres for the plant to obtain its
noiu'ishment therefrom. Potting in shallow receptacles
and using poor soils are also objects towards the same
end. The result is that the plant falls, as it were, into a
moribund condition, and though enough vitality is retained
for the usual seasons of growth and rest to be followed,
yet it is so far stinted as to be quite unable to shake this
off and resume its natural style of growth. The Japanese,
from their long years of experience, are ver> skilful in
the production of these dwarf trees, and here they are
admired by many as curiosities, though the general taste
is more in favour of naturally -grown subjects. These
dwarf trees, when grown in this country, should be well
supplied with water when necessary, but stimulating
maatucs must be avoided.

R06E GARDEN.

LEAF-CURL {H. Q.). — The trouble arises from the action
of the larvae of a sawfiy, and it is done by them when imma-
ture. Spraying with nicotine has been found to kill the larvae,
but it is best to pick off the curled leaves as soon as detected.
No doubt the pest is first imported into the garden from
soil adhering to roots of Roses that have been previously
attacked. It is a troublesome pest, and where very
prevalent we should advise replanting in the autumn,
taking care to wash off the soil from the roots and remove
to quite new soil.

ROSES FAILING {Lieutenant-Colonel H. F. D.).—The

shoots sent are exceedingly pithy, and should certainly
have been cut hard back in spring. Probably, being so
pithy, they suffered from winter frosts, which, although
not severe, were quite enough to damage such growths.
This pithiness of the wood would naturally affect tlie
buds, for they cannot receive their natural food. Whether
this state of things is owing to faulty culture we cannot
say, but it looks much like a case of overdosing with some
chemical manure that encourages this sort of growth
instead of a growth of a more solid nature. Too much
nitrogenous food will produce this sappy wood, and
the frequent applications of insecticides only tend to
aggravate matters, for, naturally, the liquid finds its
way down to the roots. We should advise hard cutting
back of ail such wood, and probably the basal eyes will
be all right and will quickly start, so that you will have a
good autumnal display

FRUIT GARDEN.

LEAVES OF PEAR TREE FOR INSPECTION (M. M.).—

The symptoms point to the trees being exposed to coM
winds. Shelter is an important thing with many Pears, not
only for the protection of the foliage, but also as an aid t<i
pollination, since bees do not care to visit flowers in windy
weather.

BIG-BUD IN BLACK CURRANTS (J. A. B.).— The
Black Currants are affected with " big-bud." Pick off
and burn all the affected buds in winter, so as to remove
as many of the mites that cause the trouble as possible,
and spray the plants with Quassia and soft soap three
times at fortnightly intervals, beginning at the end of
April next. The Beech leaves have been injured either
by draught or dry or cold winds.

GOOSEBERRIES GONE WRONG {R. R. 5.).— We fin-t
neither fungu-i nor insect on the plants to account
for the trouble of which you complain. They appear
to us to be suffering from lack of sufficient water, and wi-
would suspect tliey have insufficient roots to supply th*-
demand made by the foliage when the sun becomes hot
upon them. They have apparently grown very rapidly.
Does the soil ever become water-logged ?

GROWTHS ON VINE LEAVES {Black Hambro').-
The curious appearance of the Vine foliage is due to the
growth of warts upon it, produced by the presence of
too much moisture in the air. This checks the normal
loss of water from the leaves and brings about a condition
of great pressure in certain of the cells, resulting in their
greatly increased growth and the formation of wart?-.
They are signs of improper conditions, and point the way
to a remedy.

BARK OF APPLE TREES STRIPPED BY RABBITS
OR HARES (/. M. C). — If the bark has been completely
stripped from round the stems of the trees, nothing you
can do will avail to make them useful and satisfactory
trees afterwards, although they may perhaps linger on foi
some years as wrecks. But if tliere is a part of the bark
remaining, say, up one or two sides, they will liave a better
chance of living, as new bark in time will take the place of
the old. The wisest thing to do in the case of badly-
stripped trees like yours is to grub them up and replant
in autumn with healthy trees.

RASPBERRIES AND GOOSEBERRIES DISEASED
{M. H.). — The liaspberries are attacked by the fungus
Hendersonia rubi, as you may see by the pale dead spots
on the canes covered with the tiny black fruit of the fungus.
All affected canes .should be removed and burned, and tne
remaining plants sprayed with Bordeaux mixture. The
Gooseberries are affected with die black, a disease due to
a fungus which does not fruit until it has killed a branch.
All dead branches should be immediately removed and
burned. Spraying in this case will be of little use. The
yellow-flowered annual is Limnanthes Douglasii, a good
bee flower

MELONS CRACKING AND BECOMING SPOTTED
{A. W.). — The Melon is one of the easiest of all fruits to
grow, provided the grower has some sound knowledge
and experience to guide him in the work ; but once the
fruit goes wrong through faulty treatment, it seldom does
any good afterwards. The cause of cracking in Melons
is too much water applied to the roots and too humid and
close an atmosphere. Give more air and keep the soil
moderately dry for a time, and notice the result. If
there is no improvement, it ^vill be better to pull up the
plants and start again with fresh ones. If you decide tu
do this and will let us know, we will try to help you with
the new crop by giving a few details as to culture.

CUSTARD APPLE SEED (T. J. i.).— The Custard Apple
is the fruit of Anoua squamosa. It makes a bush-likr
tree, attaining to a height of about fifteen feet. The tree
will take at least three years to grow from seed before any
fruit may be expected. When the fruit is ripe it is fleshy,
the pulp being yellow and so soft that it is difficult to handle
without bruising. The flavour of the fruit lias been
likened to that of Raspberries and cream. In tropical
countries it is much appreciated and consumed. To grow
it to perfection in this country it would require a well-
heated greenhouse to itself ; but the fruit is not particu-
larly cared for here, and certainly not deemed of sufficient
importance to have a glasshouse devoted to its growth.
The way to grow the seedlings is to pot them and grow
them on in heat during the summer, with cooler treatment
in winter. The tree is well branched and clothed with
leathery, oblong leaves, in the axils of which are borne
in spring greenish, fleshy flowers about one inch across.
The soil that suits it well is the same as you would use
for growing Peach trees in pots.

ESPALIER PEAR TREES NOT BEARING (X. M. 2).).—
The varieties are fairly consistent bearers, and therefore
the fault is not to be looked for in the varieties. The Pears
(or most of the varieties) are strong-growing trees, and it
often happens that if means are not taken in good time
to moderate such strong growth, it will so contmue
one year after another, the tree remaining practically
barren all the time. In all such cases root-prunmg should
be resorted to. If properly carried out it can do no harm,
and in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred it proves
effective in bringing the trees into a fruitful condition .
With reference to the fruit of your Magnate Pear tree
shrivelling and dropping, this is most unusual, for this
variety isone of the most satisfactory croppers we have.
Can it be that the roots are dry at any time ? Give the
tree a real good soaking now, and then a mulch of rotten
manure onthe surface 3 inches deep. Water it again a
fortnight hence over the manure, and once more before the
fruit shows signs of ripening. It is a good plan to give
such fruit trees a thorough irrigation of manure-water m

320

THE GARDEN.

[June 21, 1913.

the winter as soon as the leaves have fallen. It fertilises
the soil and nourishes the roots.

SCAB ON YOUNG PEACH FRUIT (J. R. R.).— Judging
by the sample of foliage sent, your tree is in a feeble state
of health, but the cause of the injury to the fruit is " scald-
ing" (in garden parlance). This is brought about by
bright gleams of sunshine shining on the fruit while it is
damp from late spraying, and insufficient ventilation.
Do not try to force the, tree's growth, but let it come as
naturally and gradually as possible, giving plenty of air
in fine weather, day and night, but, of course, in cold
wi-ather not so much. In this way we hope the fruit
which is left and which is healthy may develop and ripen
all right, but there is no hope for that which is diseased like
the sample. Syringe the trees in the afternoon of fine
days, about 4 p.m., but not in the morning. Water with
care. Do not let the soil be waterlogged or too dry at
any time. The best way to bring your tree back tojiealth
will be by lifting it bodily and replanting at the end of
October in good, fairly heavy maiden turfy loam, adding
a gallon of lime and a quart of bone-meal to each barrow-
ioad of the loam. Tread the soil firmly over the roots
when planting. This replanting, if carefully done, need not
prevent the tree from bearing next year. Let the points
of all the roots be slightly shortened at the time of
replanting.

TO GROW MELONS IN A FRAME (E. C.).— The Melon
sliould be planted and grown very much like a Cucumber,
the chief difference being that heavier loam should be used
and no manure mixed with the soil. The soil, after plant-
ing, should also be pressed down more firmly round the roots
than is advisable for the Cucumber. Two plants should
be planted together in the centre of a one-light frame
(10 inches from the glass). When each young plant has
formed a stem, say, of 4 inches in height, let the top of the
stem be stopped by pinching otf the top with the finger
and thumb. The result of doing this will be that two new
shoots will emit from the stem lower down. These will
form the two main branches of the plants, and be the ones
which will bear fruit. These branches will trail on the
surface of the soil. As soon as they have attained a length
of 15 inches, let the extreme points of each be stopped, as
the young shoot was stopped before. The result of this
stopping will be that two or three other shoots will issue
out of the side of these branches. These are called lateral
shoots, and these are the shoots which will bear the fruit.
By the time these side shoots are 7 inches long, each one
will show a female blossom. This is distinguished from
the male blossom by having a swelling at the bottom, and
is easily known. As soon as you can secure two or three of
these female blossoms expanded on these laterals at the
same time, then is the time to fertilise the flowers with the
pollen of the male blossom, this being applied to the
stigma (the centre column of the female blossom). This
should be done at midday, when the pollen and the flowers
are quite dry.

cold, with syrup made by dissolving a pound of sugar in
two quarts of water. Sterilise as advised. Gooseberries
may be treated with plain water or syrup, preferably the
latter. Use the fruit young.

PONDWEED (H. S. B.).— You can arrive at the
approximate cubical contents of your pond by taking the
average depth of water in feet and multiplying it with the
square of the surface. As the pond varies in depth, you
will find a difficulty in getting the exact cubical contents
of water ; but as you can use copper sulphate with safety
at any strength between 1 in 760.000 and 1 in 1,000,000,
there is a wide margin for any inaccuracy. Copper
sulphate is even effective in killing scum at less strength
than 1 in 1,000,000, though it is advisable to keep to that
strength, or as near as possible.

INJURY TO LEAVES (5. C. fi.).— Your soil is probably
insufficiently drained and cold in spring. This would
fully account for the yellow colour of the rambler Rose
shoots. Attention should be paid to drainage and to
lightening the soil. If you can make it a little darker
by the addition of soot, it would probably help
matters. The Plum is attacked by silver-leaf. It would
be well to cut out the affected parts completely and burn
them. Affected branches very rarely recover and scarcely
ever fruit, while the fungus which is tlie cause of the
trouble spreads from diseased branches after they are dead.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— R. E. H.— Sitka Spruce (Picea

sitchenais, sometimes called Picea Menziesii). M. R. P. —

Collinsia bicolor. Pamell, Bournemouth. — Lonicera

involucrata. G. E. C. — Pancratium iUyiicum. The

Lady Kennedy. — Pyrus Aria (MTiite Beam). R. M. — 1,

Red flower^ Crinodendron hookerianum syn. Tricuspidaria

hexapetala ; 2, Rhamnus catharticus.- ./. C, Einloch-

teven. — 1, Galium saxatile ; 2, Trientalis europtea : 3,
Pedicularis aylvatica ; 4, Lysimachia nemorum ; 5, Geum

rivale ; 6, Euphorbia species, too scrappy to identify.

Q. B., N. Wales. — 1, Ajuga reptans ; 2, Helianthemum
vulgare ; 3, Polygala vulgaris ; 4, Coronilla cappadocica;

5, Forsytlua species ; 6, Symphoricarpus racemosus.

"Jim." — 1, Davallia mooreana ; 2, Adiantium formosum ;
3, Polypodium aureum ; 4, Davallia elegans variety ; 5,
Gymnogramme wettenhalliana ; 6, Codiseum variegatum
variety; 7, Gymnogramme chrysophylla; 8, Phyllanthus
nivosus: 9, Acalypha macrostachys (musiaca) ; 10,
Dracffina teirainalis variety; 11, Davallia elegans
Gymnogramme pulchella.

12.

BOOKS.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

WORMS ATTACKING VEGETABLES (£. R.).— The
worms are mostly white worms which are allied to earth-
worms, but, unlike the latter, frequently cause consider-
able damage to plant roots. We think a dressing of lime
to the soil is called for ; but meantime some good may
lie done by watering the plants with lime-water.

ASPARAGUS BITTER (An Outsider).— The cause of
the bitterness, we think, is undoubtedly due to injury
to the young growth by frost. While there is danger of
frost you should inspect your beds every morning and cut
off all the grass which is at to cut, and that which is too
small to cut you should cover over with some soil from
the surface of the bed in order to protect it.

MISCELLANEOUS.

CHANGING THE COLOUR OF FLOWERS (A. B.).—
Many aniline dyes may be used for giving flowers unnatural
colours, either by dipping the flowers completely in or by
allowing them to soak up the dye.

HARD WATER (If. S.).— Your water is probably hard
because of the amount of chalk it holds in solution. If
this is so, it may be materially softened by boiling, or
by the addition of a small quantity of quicidime to the
tank in which it is kept before use in the house.

ROSES AND IRISES ATTACKED BY A FUNGUS (J. S.).
— The Roses and the Irises are attacked by the same
fungus, Botrytis cinerea. This fungus usually attacks
plants that are rather unripe in their growth, or that have
beeu checked by a frost. Extra liberal manuring or
growing the plants in rich soil, which encoiu-ages sappy
growth, lays the plants open to attack. All diseased parts
should be removed and burned.

INJURY TO APPLE BLOSSOM (Apple).— The Apple
flowers are not attacked by the Apple- blossom weevil,
but probably by the Apple Psylla. This pest lays its
eggs in autumn on the young twigs, and it is very likely
to be carried from one place to another on the trees in
this form. No Psyllas were present when the clusters
reached us, but the appearance of the dead flowers
suggested that attack.

BOTTLING FRUITS AND VEGETABLES (W. H. C.).—
All vegetables and fruits should be gathered dry. Peas,
young and freshly gathered, should be shelled and thrown
into boiling water with a little suet for five minutes.
Fill the bottles with Peas, filling with the water they were
boiled in. Put in the steriliser and gradually heat to boiling
point. Screw the cap down tightly when taken out. Treat
.\sparagu-s in the same manner. Cut the stalks to suit
the length of the bottle. Strawberries should be rather
under-ripe and packed closely in the bottles. Fill, when

The Genus Iris.* — " A great book, a great evil,"
said the ancient Greek, and the little that I can
detect of evil in this fine addition to the library
of the botanist and the gardener is chiefly con-
nected with its magnitude. It refuses to enter
a shelf that comfortably accommodates such fine
folios as Andrews' " Heaths " and a tall copy
of the 1768 edition of Miller's " Gardeners'
Dictionary," being a head taller than either. Even
where extra head space has been prepared for
the " Hortus Elthamensis," the width of these
Iris portraits is such that the door cannot shut
upon them. The magnitude of price exists only
so long as the book is regarded from its outside.
Once open its pages and realise the labour, research
and voyages necessary for its completeness and
original authority, taste the delight of its exquisitely
delicate and accurate illustrations, and you are
like the swimmer who, braver than the rest, first
plunges into the stream and instantly calls to the
others looking at the apparently cold water,
" Come on ; it's just lovely." The ample pages
when open provide the reader with the possibility
of good clear type and division under headings,
so well spaced that a glance is sufiicient to give
you the one you want. Thus, after the recognised
name of each species we get references to its
published descriptions, and should it be figured
as well, an asterisk points it out. Then in order
follow a list of synonyms, distribution, Latin
diagnosis, description in English and a final division
for observations. These are in most cases delightful
records of the author's personal experience in
visits to the plants' native homes, or efforts,
successful or otherwise, to obtain living material ;
but especially noteworthy and useful are the many
thorough and practical notes on cultivation.

net.

' The Genus Iris." by W. R. Dykes ; price S guineas
Cambridge University Press.

These are, perhaps, one of the most marked
features of this book. It is so rare to find a botanist
who can produce such a systematic monograph
and also has the true gardener's enthusiasm for
the beauty of the plant, and the patience and
perseverance that lead to the discovery of the
individual idiosyncrasies of the wayward when
under cultivation. As an instance of this I may
quote the following : " There appear to be two
main forms of I. ruthenica ; one has almost rigid
leaves and flowers freely, while the other has
flimsy, largely prostrate, foliage. It flowers only
exceedingly rarely — at any rate in the dry hot
soil of Surrey, although in moister and richer con-
ditions, it is said to flower well and even to produce
a second crop of flowers in the autumn." Such a
simple rule should banish the flaccid-leaved,
barren patches from all but the gardens of the
students of forms. It would be easy to instance
further rich fruits gathered from the author's
personal observations of his plants, but space
will admit of but three. By raising seedlings he has
proved that many forms that breed true from seed
should be regarded as Mendelian recessives, and not
as subspecies. He instances the white forms of I.
tectorum, I. sibirica and I. orientalis, the crimson I.
versicolor kermesin a, and that form of I. Pseudacorus
in which the usual brown markings are absent.

The second discovery is so interesting and
useful that I give the author's own words :
" Nature has provided us with one infallible sign,
which will show us whether an Iris is a native
of a dry or a wet soil. This vrill be seen if leaves
of I. Pseudacorus or I. versicolor are held up to
the light side by side with a leaf of a Pogoniris,
for instance, of I. germanica. The latter will
appear of a uniform green, but the former will
show a number of minute blackish spots, which
on microscopical examination prove to be due to
the fact that at these points the vertical channels
in the tissue of the leaves are blocked by growths
of apparently the same structure as that which
surromids the passages. The increased thickness
of the structure at these points produces the
appearance of the black spots."

As another instance of the value of this book to the
cultivator of Irises, we may take the notes on the
Califomian group, so beautiful, yet so rarely seen.
The author tells us two causes prevent their generally
successful cultivation — soil that is strong in lime,
and the paucity of their root-fibres, which makes
transplantation uncertain — and he gives most
useful hints, drawn from experience, as to the
methods by which he has successfully raised them
from seed and established them in permanent
quarters. The careful study of this book would
greatly enlarge the views and collections of Iris
growers. Too many good gardens contain few
varieties and species other than the florists' forms
of bearded Irises so often erroneously classed as
" German " Irises, whose main display is confined
to late May and early June, leaving out those that
would furnish blooms from the late autumn (I
always expect and often get I. unguicularis blooms
in the first week of October) to the middle of July,
when the Japanese Irises close the normal Iris
season. The Iris has been aptly termed the
" poor man's Orchid," but no one who gardens
in the open air should neglect this fine plant, and
henceforward none should be content with less
than an eight months' succession of Iris flowers,
who can give space and attention to them and will
put in practice the good advice so richly stored
in this book, which is beyond doubt a great one
for the practical gardener.

■«> ^fe^

GARDEN.

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No. 2171.— Vol. LXXVII.

June 28, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes of the Week 321
Correspondence
Birds and truit

nets 322

Atusk without scent 322
Worms on lawns . . 323
Blue-flowered Hy-
drangeas . . . . 323
Fortlicoming events.. 323
ROSE Garden
Seasonable notes on

Roses 323

A good crimson

Rose 323

CuLTDRiL Hints os
New and Bare
Plants 324

Flower Garden
Primula cockbumi-

ana and its hybrids 324
A useful and liardy

Pink 325

Fkcit Garden
Seasonable notes on

fruit 325

(Gardens op To-Day
A notable riverside
garden : Taplow
Couit 325

Greenhouse
Cannas in the green-
house and flower

garden 327

Orchid Notes

Cymbidiums . . . . 327
New and Rare
Plants 328

Gardening for Beginners
Chrysanthemums. —

Practical hints on

work to do now 329
Cutting hedges in

summer-time . . 329
Potting the Chimney

Bellflower .. .. 329

Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 330

For Northern gar-
dens 330

Some Good Things in

A Scottish G.uiden 331

Answers to Corre-
spondents

Flower garden . . 331

Greenhouse . . . . 332

Rose garden . . . . 332

Fruit garden . . . . 332

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

ILiIiUSTRATIONS.

A tent of the lackey moth caterpillar 322

A beautiful new Mock Orange 323

A rock garden of old-world flowers 324

South front of Taplow Court 325

BoiUter's Weir 326

The famous Cedar Walk, Taplow Court 326

Early summer in the rock garden at Taplow Court . . 327

The new Trollius patulus Bees' variety 3^8

Top-dressing and disbudding Chrysanthemums . . 329

BDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he icilt not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly uiuferstood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated ivith.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions tvhich he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publicalion in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covenl Uardeu, W.C.

Next Year's Daffodil Show in London. —

April 21 and 22 are the dates fixed by the Council
of the Royal Horticultural Society for their Daffodil
show next year. We imderstand that the schedule
of the show will be ready shortly.

Meconopsis paniculata. — Like M. Wallichii,
which in general appearance it much resembles,
this plant is worth growing for its foliage alone ;
but when it opens its pale lemon cup-shaped flowers
in June or early Jtily it is doubly captivating.
It is not too late to sow seed of it in a cool frame,
where the plants should remain till spring.

Forthcoming Saxifrage Conference. — The Presi-
dent and Coimcil of the Royal Horticultural Society
have decided to hold a Conference on Saxifrages
in the spring or early summer of 1915. Fuller
particulars will be issued in due course, but
notice is given thus early in order that those
interested in this family of plants may have time
to prepare material. The Council will be pleased
to hear from any willing to contribute a paper
at the Conference or to take part in any way.

A Beautiful New Garden Rose. — One of the

best garden Roses of recent introduction that we
know is Lady Alice Stanley, a Hybrid Tea that
emanated from the Emerald Isle in 1909. This
Rose makes a fine spreading bush, and its glorious
solitary flowers are produced on stout, erect stems.
The blooms are of silvery pink colour, the reverse
of the petals being deep, glowing rose. This com-
bination is particularly charming. The flowers
are large, fragrant, and last in good condition for
a long time after they are fully expanded, of which
stage they remind us of refined Paeonies.

A Good Early Pea.— One of the best early
Peas that we have ever grown is Early Mom,
a wrinkle-seeded variety of splendid quality, with
excellent cropping powers. Sown in the open on
March 8, the plants gave a splendid lot of pods
for picking on the 21st inst. This Pea has robust
haulm of about three feet in height, and the pods
are long and almost straight, the average number
of Peas in each being nine. When cooked these
are of a beautiful green tint, and the quality is
all that one could wish. It is a Pea to note for
sowing next year.

A Beautiful Rock Rose. — Cistus Loretii is one of
the hardiest and best of the numerous Rock Roses,
and it is a plant to include among subjects for dry,
sunny banks. Of hybrid origin, it claims as parents
two showy species in C. ladaniferus and C. mon-
speliensis. Mature plants attain a height of 4 feet
with a similar diameter, and are prominent through-
out the year by reason of their dark green leaves.
It is, however, during early June that they are most
attractive, for at that time they are covered with
showy flowers. Each blossom is about two and
a-half inches across, white, with a rich reddish
blotch at the base of each petal. Cuttings of young

shoots root readily during summer if placed in
sandy soil in a close frame, while the plant thrives
in quite poor soil ; in fact, it is a mistake to make
the ground very rich for this or any other Cistus.

Single Roses Flowering Well.— The freedom

with which the Dog Rose (Rosa canina) is flower-
ing in the hedgerows of our country lanes is truly
wonderful. We recently came across bushes of
this Rose smothered with bloom on a lakeside
with Iris sibirica in full flower on either side of it.
The association of these plants and the colours
produced were pleasing in the extreme. The
Burnet or Scotch Rose (R. spinosissima) is likewise
flowering with remarkable freedom, while the
less hardy Cherokee Rose (R. sinica Anemone) is
flowering in some gardens better than it has ever
been known to before.

The Prophet Flower.— This Oriental plant is
often met with under the name of .Arnebia echioides,
although it is correctly known as Macrotomia
echioides. It belongs to the Natural Order"
Boraginaces, but it is little like a Borage. The
peculiarity of the plant is seen in the large, bright
yellow flowers, which when first open have a purple
maroon blotch at the base of each of the five
petals. The remarkable thing is that the blotches,
which are very conspicuous in the young flower,
disappear as the flower matures. This is a subject
worthy of a position in the rock garden, for it is
both attractive and interesting. A simny position
and a sandy loamy soil suit it admirably.

Creosote Fumes and Plants. — Last week a
correspondent wrote to say that he had recently
had a new greenhouse built, and that the wooden
staging had been treated with creosote. Tomato
plants which had been placed in the house had
suffered considerably, the leaves having curled up
in an alarming manner. .Apparently it is not
generally known that the fumes of creosote, which
are very penetrating, are injurious to plant-life,
particularly in the confined atmosphere of a green-
house. Wood that has been recently treated
with this preservative ought to be kept away from
plants of all kinds, though after several months
its injurious properties appear to pass away.

Anchusa italica Dropmore Variety. — One of
the most conspicuous herbaceous plants in flower
at Kew early in Jime was this beautiful variety
of the Italian Alkanet. It was planted about the
grounds in large groups in several situations,
notably near the T Range and Palm House, and
beside the Lake in the Arboretum. Possibly
it was seen to the best advantage in the latter
place, for, looking across the lake, in addition to
the mass of blue on the bank there was the colour
reflected in the water with a background of dark
foliage trees. It is quite an easy plant to cultivate,
and a stock of plants may be raised quickly by
making cuttings of the stronger roots during spring
or summer. Good loamy soil provides a suitable
rooting medium, and a surface-dressing of manure
in spring serves to keep the plants in good health.

322

THE GARDEN.

[June 28, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{Thf Editor is not responsible for the opinions
express'ed by correspondents.)

Birds and Fruit-Nets. — Will you allow me to
suggist to the bird-lovers among your readers
that during the summer season they should make
a point of periodically visiting their fruit-nets ?
and so ensure against such of our little songsters
who may have been caught there dying a slow
death by hunger and thirst. It is quite a common
thing to find the dead body of a bird entangled
in the meshes of a Strawberry-net, and one does
not like to think of the lingering death by which
the little thief has atoned for his very natural
greediness. — Z.

Gloxinias for a Cool Greenhouse. — The writer

of a note on this subject in " Notes of the Week,"
issue June 14, is quite right when he says that
the tendency is to regard these plants as stove
subjects. One of the best batches of plants I
ever saw was grown in a cold frame during the
summer months, in fine weather being fully exposed,
as the lights were removed, and only taken to a cool
greenhouse as the flowers developed. It was an
experiment growing the plants so, occasioned by
want of room, but quite a successful one. All the
flower-stems were strong and upright, and the
leaves thick and leathery, whereas many flowers
grown on plants in hot stoves have to be supported.
— G. G.

Musk Without Scent. — 1 read in a note in
The Garden of last week that you notice how
scentless Musk has become. I believe I am right
in saying that in England it has had no scent for
the last five years or so. I have noticed this lack
of scent in Devon, Hants, Worcestershire and
various Midland Counties, and have been told of
it by many friends living elsewhere. It occurred
to me that perhaps the plant has acquired the
habit of self-fertilisation. Should this be the
case, its protoplasts would naturally leave off
producing a volatile oil to attract insects. For
the last three years I have watched Musk plants
with interest in the counties I have named, and
have never seen them visited by insects. Can
this be the solution ? — Victoria Slade.

The Long-Spurred Columbines. — I can very
fully bear out all that is advanced in favour of these
plants in " Notes of the Week," issue June 14.
For more than ten years I had charge of a garden
in which the Columbine was a favourite plant,
and during that period there was a large border,
about ten feet wid« and sixty feet long, filled with
them, besides clumps growing in the herbaceous
borders. For many years previous to my charge
the Columbines had been growing in the same
border. I never dug up the clumps nor the border
soil, all the attention given being confined to an
annual surface mulch of rotted manure and loam
in equal quantities, mixed. The original soil
was of too light a nature to admit of the addition
of leaf-soil. Every year seedlings appeared and,
in due course, produced flowers of very beautiful
colours. Perhaps the plants deserved better
treatment, but they did remarkably well. The
flowers were charming in vases. — G. G.

The Lackey Moth Caterpillar.— If one looks at
the Hawthorn hedges about May or June one cannot
fail to notice cobweb-like structures which cover
many of the shoots, and also that these branches
are practically destitute of leaves. The smaller
of these tents belong to the caterpillar of the

ernune moth, while the larger kinds belong to that
of the lackey moth. Both these, especially the
latter, are also troublesome as regards Apple,
Plum and other fruit trees. The illustration shows
a typical, well-developed tent of the caterpillar
of the lackey moth, taken from an Apple tree. It
was about nine inches in length and remarkably
strong. On studying the life-history of this pest
we find that the moth lays its eggs on the young
shoots of the trees in autumn in rings, and the
number of eggs varies from forty to two hundred.
They are greyish in colour, and are rather difficult
to discern against the brown of the bark unless
the tree is small. These eggs withstand all the
rigours of winter, and hatch out towards the end
of April. The young caterpillars are black with
two yellow lines down the back, and we notice that
they soon commence spinning a web so as to enclose
a few leaves, on which they feed. As they grow,
so the tent grows, and when they are about half

A TENT 01" LACKEY MOTH CATERPILLARS.
THESE DO CONSIDERABLE DAMAGE TO
APPLE AND PLUM TREES.

an inch long they begin to spread about the tree,
devouring the leaves, making a point, however,
of always returning to the tent in the evening.
On dull and wet days they remain in the tent.
The full-grown caterpillar is about one and a-half
inches long, and is rather gaudily coloured, having
a ground colour of bluish grey with red and yellow
stripes. About the middle of June the chrysalis
is formed inside a silky cocoon, the outside of which
is covered with a yellow powder. This cocoon is
either suspended from a leaf or enclosed between two
leaves. The moth usually appears in July and August
and deposits its eggs, and so the trouble goes on.
From this brief study of the life-history we see that
the best means of destroying them (always, of course,
presuming that it is in the majority of cases im-
possible to see the eggs) is to remove the tents
in the evening or on a showery day, as at these
times one could be practically certain that all the
caterpillars would be caught. — H. Buckton,
Donington, near Spalding.

The Dwar{ Mock Oranges. — I was pleased to
see the note on these charming shrubs on page ^og
of last week's issue. I grow them near the doors

and windows of the house, whtre the large kinds
would take up too much room, and their fragrance
is delightful. The hint to cut out old wood after
flowering is a useful one that I hope to act upon.
— A. B. Essex.

A Glorious Garden Pink. — Referring to your
paragraph in " Notes of the Week" in last week's
issue of The Garden regarding Pink Gloriosa,
last year I successfully layered about five
hundred of this, as you truly state, glorious
Pink ; but my experience is that the plant un-
doubtedly requires protection in the winter. My
plants were duly planted out on a warm border,
and had last winter been a severe one, I should
certainly have lost the whole of my stock. At
the present time the plants are just recovering,
and have flowered fairly freely, but mostly with
very short stems. I may state they are growing
in the neighbourhood of Richmond. After layering
this season I intend planting them out in cold
frames for the winter, and then plant out in early
spring. I should be glad to hear other growers'
experiences and opinions on this lovely new plant. —
C. A. G. [The plants we have are growing in a
warm border by the house, but facing east. This
is in Essex. They have withstood two winters
without protection. — Ed.]

Silver-Leaf Disease in Apple Trees. — I have
noticed the increase of this disease in fruit trees
more than ever this year. Is it not a fact, though,
that this is so following a wet season ? The
disease, unfortunately, is not now confined to
Plum trees, but is attacking Apple trees also.
Last year I found two trees of Norfolk Beauty
which had been grafted on to Warner's King five
years previously, affected. Extra strong growth
followed the grafting. The cause of this disease
attacking these particular trees is very puzzlmg,
as there are many more of the same variety
adjoining which are at present quite healthy,
and no Plum trees anywhere near. I notice,
too, that more Plum trees are attacked this year
than is common. The variety Victoria, as is
generally known, is the one that suffers the
most from this disease. In one large fruit garden
not far away it is no imcommon thing for the pro-
prietor to be compelled to replant as many as
200 trees of Victoria alone in one season owing
to silver-leaf disease. This is a serious matter.
In a cottager's garden near here I note a
large tree of Plum Belle de Louvain, which bore
a huge crop last year, is this year showing signs
of silver-leaf disease. Has the weight of fruit borne
on the trees, followed by a wet autumn in which
maturation cannot be so perfect, anything to do
with the progress and increase of the disease ?
In connection with the disease of the two Apple
trees alluded to previously, I have treated
one of the trees with sulphate of iron in the hope
of arresting the disease, and also ridding
the trees entirely of it. We are continually
being told that there is no cure for silver-
leaf ; only dig up and burn the trees I From the
appearance of the Apple tree thus treated I am in
hopes of saving it, and if this is an assured
fact, why should not the same happen to Plum
trees so affected ? I herewith send portions of
the two trees, one showing the effect of treatment
as compared with the untreated tree. — E.
MoLYNEUx, Swanmore Park, Hants. [The point
raised by our correspondent is a most interesting
one. The Apple shoots from the treated tree are
robust and only show slight traces of silver-leaf,
while those from the untreated tree are weak
and badly infested. — Ed.]

Iunl: 2S, 19I;;.

THE GARDEN.

32ii

Worms on Lawns. — 1 wus nuich interested in
A[r. Eiigleheait's comments re worms in your issue
111 June 7. I am compelled to say that ^fter a
long and close acquaintance with the e^ect ot
unrms on the soil generally, iuid on lawns especially,
I was not a little dismayed to read the Editor's
note at the foot. I presume the good influence of
worms on cultivated soil is generally acknowledged ;
it certainly ought to be with reference to lawns,
liiigland, 1 lielicve, the world over is noted for
licr garden lawns, and obviously this applies
more to lawns made anytliing from fifty to two
hundred years ago than to those of the last ten
years. T suggest that the discerning care which
made these fine examples did not include methods
for the destruction of the worms ; also that the
lawn men to whom we are indebted for them
\\ork(d in consonance with their coadjutors, the
worms, and not for their destruction. This, then,
is what slionld be practised in these (lays where
.1 line lawn is desired, even for games. It was very
i;ratifying to read in .Mr. Kngleheart's note that " it
IS probably an impossibility to really exterminate
the worms on a grass plot of any size." Would
that it were on the smallcif ! — E. J. Platt.
Blue-Flowered Hydrangeas. — .-V

query that crops up with uniform
regularity is how to induce Hydrangeas
to give blue flowers. Various sugges-
tions as to the cause thereof have
been made, it being usually attributed
to the presence of iron in the soil. By
watering with alum water, or by mix-
ing iron in some shape or other with
the potting compost, good results are
sometimes obtained, but failures are
by no means infrequent. There are,
however, two prepai^ations now on the
market, bearing the " bluey " names '

of Azure and Cyanol, that can be
relied upon to produce the desired
blue tint. Azure is brought out by
Messrs. William Cutbush and Son of
Highgate, and their exhibit of blue
Hydrangeas at the Chelsea Show
stood out as an undoubted proof of
its efficacy. At the same time Messrs.
Cutbush said that some varieties
acquire this blue tint in a more
pronounced manner than others.
Naturally, it is of a bright rose colour,
but readily changes to blue. The second to
mention, Cyanol, is, I believe, a Continental
preparation, but which can be obtained from
some of the horticultural sundriesraen. The
users of this preparation are reminded that water
and soil must be free from chalk, that rain-water
is preferable' and that no artificial manure must
be applied. — H. P.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

A

SEASONABLE NOTES ON ROSES.

S I write we have been experiencing anotiier
spellof weather that is quite unsuitable
to Roses. The warmer showers of a few
days previous were very useful in
cleansing young growths from the very
serious attack of insect foes which came
on during the prevalence of east and north-easterly
winds ; but now (June 10) it is quite cold, and the
growths are being battered and bruised by a half
gale from the south-west. On the mornings of the
8th and gfh inst. we had quite sharp white frosts
here — East Sussex — and not a few of the more
tender varieties already show the effects of these,
so that, taken altogether, our prospects are not so
rosy as a short time back. The sudden and
extreme changes have had a disastrous effect upon

is drawn up to the stocks, similar to the earthing
up of Potatoes, we shall find the bark in a desirable
I condition when the earth is removed just previous
to inserting the bud. Upon standard Briars also
the number of shoulder shoots should be limited
to two or three, leaving these at the most desirable
lieight. If these breaks can be left at a triangle,
or almost opposite one another in the case of only
two, a much better head of Rose growth is likely
to be secured. The full operation of budding may
occupy some later notes at a more seasonable time ;
but I may say that any interference with growth
at the time of budding is apt to check the flow of
sap and so hhider a quick junction. A, P.

A GOOD CRIMSON ROSE.

During the present season I have had some remark-
al>ly line blooms of Couunander Jules Gravereaux, a
Rose that has escaped the notice of a good many
many wall Knscs here (Uckfield) that were rapidly j readers, for I do not remenrber seeing it mentioned.

coming into full flower and were promising. During
the spell of heat ui the first week of the month
great help was afi'orded our wall Roses by the free
use of the syringe and water minus any insecticide.

Its fine glowing scarlet-crimson blooms make a
splendid show, and, unlike many of the Hybrid
Perpetual Roses, its growth is nicely spreading.
Tile flowers are rather semi-double ; certamly

A BEAUTIFUL NEW MOCK ORANGE, PHILADELPHUS NORMA. {About one-half natural size. See page 328,)

FORTHCOMINCr EVENTS.

July r. — Royal Horticultural Society's Summer
Sliow at Holland House (three days). Rose Shows
.11 Sutton and Epsom, Scottisli Horticultural
.Association's Meeting, Royal Agricultural Society
of England Show at Bristol (five da>'s),

July 2, — Hanley Floral 1-etc (two days). Flower
Sliows at Penarth, King's Lynn, Gosport, .Alver-
slcike and Colchester,

July 3, — Flower Show at Ipswich.

July 4, — National Rose Society's Sliow at
Regent's Park.

July 5. — Flower Show at Ihornton Heath.
Society Frangaise d'Horticulture de londres
Meeting.

This was applied late in the afternoon when the sun
had lost its burning power, and again a little before
simset. Where this slight trouble was taken, the
difference was remarkable, and I can recommend
it during spells of warm weather. It acts
as a cleanser, and is also a grand preventive
of severe attacks of black thrip and red spider,
so injurious to Roses when upon an extra dry wall.
The winds must have played havoc with
maiden Roses not properly secured, more especially
those upon standards. Early measures in this
direction give us a number of sticks that are very
useful, even before the young growths are sufficiently
long to be tied the second time. Our own were
earthed up early, and the varieties more susceptible
to breaking out struck first. Some few Roses seem
to break out at the very least pressure, while others,
making a better union with the stock from the first,
will resist quite a strong wind if earthed up and
headed.

they are not at all full, and the huge petals are
curiously indented at the edges, which remind one
of a big almost single Paony. This Rose would
make a fine bedder, as every shoot will bloom.
It will throw up very rigid growths about three
feet in height, and these are crowned with flower-
buds. The fragrance is very sweet, just of the
old Rose scent we admire so much. It is rather
strange that this is so, seeing that the Rose was
raised from Frau Karl Druschki crossed with
Cramoisie Superieure, both scentless kinds ; but
the writer has a seedling of Frau Karl Druschki
deliciously sweet. In this case a fragrant Hybrid
Tea was employed as pollen parent.

I am certain we shall soon have quite a number
of Frau Karl Druschki seedlings, and if they are
as beautiful as Commander Jules Gravereaux
and Nathalie Bottner, the so-called yellow Frau
Karl Druschki, they will be most welcome. I had
this latter growing close by the new Alexander Hill

Next month should find us busy with budding, | Gray, and some visitors thought Nathalie Bottner
and a little preparation of the stocks is advisable. I the more beautiful of the two, as the flowers were
For example, it will be found a great help in lifting i produced on erect growths and were of beautiful
the bark of dwarf stocks if that portion of the stem j shape and fulness, reminding one somewhat of a
is moist and soft. If some of the surrounding soil very fine Mme, Hoste. Danecroft,

324

THE GARDEN.

I June zS, itji^

CULTURAL HINTS ON NEW
AND RARE PLANTS.

(Continued from page 2S8.)
HARDY PLANTS.
Primula littoniana. — Perhaps ol all the marvels
of the modern Primula world this is the greatest —
unique in design and in effect. Much of the latter
is due to the glowing red colour of the bracts and
calyces, in contrast with the purplish colour of the
flowers. The latter are closely arranged in
cylindrical spikes of 2 feet high, and from the
earliest days of their expanding are in sharp con-
trast with the rich red of the tips of the spikes.

a plant of greater freedom of flowering and finer
stature would probably have become the most
popular of its race. As it is, it is indispensable
for its colour. It is of easy culture in moist peat
and loam, and seeds abundantly. Seedlings
should be raised freely, therefore, and planted
in sheltered groups in the rock garden.

TREES AND SHRUBS.
Salix magnifica. — This is perhaps the most
remarkable of all Willows, for it bears handsome
oval leaves up to 8 inches in length and 4 inches
across, the male catkins being over six inches
long and the female catkins nearly a foot in length.
A native of China, it has recently been introduced

A ROCK GARDEN OI' OLD-WORLD ILOWERb {See page 326.)

This remarkable plant, from the moimtains of
Western China, revels in rich, moist loam and
partial shade. Easily raised from seeds. Sow
when ripe.

Saxifraga Borisii. — Among the more recent
introductions, this handsome yellow-flowered hybrid
— said to have originated from the crossing of
S. marginata with S. Ferdinand! - Coburgi —
is full of promise. The habit of growth and fine
vigour are strongly reminiscent of S. marginata,
the glistening yellow flowers on 3-inch-high
peduncles (stems) much larger than in either parent.
The peduncles are usually three to five flowered.
The plant delights in chalky loam and compara-
tively dry, rather sheltered places in the rock
garden. Increase by careful division immediately
after flowering.

Saxifraga decipiens batlioniensis. — One of the
best, perhaps the best, of the red Mossy Saxi-
frages. There are some who have a strong liking
for S. Clibranii, though the flowers of the first
named are larger. In cool places not far removed
from thin shade, the crimson-red colour is longer
retained. Increase by division after flowering.
Seedlings come up quite freely around the estab-
lished plants. All these red-flowered sorts make
capital plants for edgings.

Primula cocliburniana. — The glorious orange
scarlet uf the flowers 'jf this plant is unique, and in

golden flowers, which sometimes exceed lour inches
in length. It is adapted for planting against a
trellis or summer-house, but appears to be more
suitable for a moderately damp climate than for
a dry situation. Like other Honeysuckles, it
requires good loarny soil and may be increased
bv meaiis of cuttings.

Philadelphus purpureo-maculatus. — -\bout

hall-a-dozen years have elapsed smce this plant,
which is of hybrid origin, made its appearance .
It belongs to the dwarf-growing group of the family,
of which the most familiar example is P. Lemoinei.
Purpureo-maculatus differs from other kinds by
reason of its white, fragrant flowers having a con-
spicuous purple blotch at the base of each petal
It must be given good loamy soil, and after the
flowers have faded all the old flowering wood
should be cut away, leaving as many vigorous
yomig shoots as p<jssible. Cuttings tif young
shoots root well in July.

Hydrangea Sargentii created considerable
(urinsiiy .Ll till- reitiit Chelsea Show, and an
illustration of the plant appeared in the Exhibition
Number of The Garden, Its chief attraction is
centred in its large and decorative leaves, which
are sometimes a foot long and 8 inches or more
wide. The flowers are in large heads, a consider-
able number of small, fertile blossoms being
accompanied by a few large, sterile blooms. From
what can be ascertained as to its requirements
up to the present, it appears more suitable for
the South - Western Counties than for general
cultivation.

to this country via. the Arnold Arboretum. Like
other Willows, it thrives in moist ground, but it
is probable that it will require to be grown in
cultivated ground if the best results are to be
obtained.

Styrax WilSOnii is a worthy addition to a genus
containing a number of choice species. Forming
a slender-branched bush, it bears drooping white
flowers from the leaf-axils during June. Like
the other species, it thrives in well-drained, loamy
soil, but appreciates a little peat about the roots
at planting-time. A moderately open position
is desirable. Propagation may be effected by
seeds or layers.

Fothergilla major, a decorativ.- shrub aUied
to the Hamamilis, was introduced from America
about a dozen years ago. Of fairly vigorous,
upright growth, it bears large, oval leaves, which
turn yellow previous to falling, and conspicuous,
upright inflorescences of white flowers. The
flowering-time is May. The best rooting medium
is light loam moderately free from lime, into which
a little peat has been dug. Moist ground and a
little shade are preferable t(j a dry and sunny
position. Cuttings of halt-ripe wood root readily
if inserted in sandy soil iu a close case during
July.

Lonicera tragophylla is a climbing Honey-
snrklc from China, remarkable for its long, tubular.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

PRIMULA GOGKBURNIANA AND ITS
HYBRIDS.

THERE has been an interesting discussion
in The Garden as to whether this good
Primula is biennial or perennial ; but
with a plant that seeds so freely as P.
cockburniiina I think this point is not so
important as some would have us believe.
The most important point, however, is the part it
has played and will play in the production of highly-
coloured hybrids, and it would be useful to many
readers of The Garden if others would kindly write
and say what they have attempted and the results
obtained. It crosses freely with P. pulverulenta,
which gave P. Unique and Lissadell Hybrid, the
former, according to the laws of nomenclature,
being the proper name. Now we have another
fine acquisition in P. Excelsior (P. Unique x
P. cockburniana), which is three parts of the latter
and one part of P. pulverulenta, although from the
Mendelian standpoint this may not be strictly
correct. It is a brilliant crimson-scarlet, a perennial
and hardy, and when shown before the Royal
Horticultural Society on June 3 last received a
unanimous award of merit. P. Excelsior was
raised by Mr. T. W. Briscoe at Messrs. Veitch's
Langley Nursery, and for further proof regard-
ing its perennial character it may be added
that all the stock has been worked up from
a single specimen. The flowers are thrum-
eyed, and are produced in tiers or whorls as
in P. pulverulenta. Those on the examples
shown averaged between four and six. So
far as colour is concerned, P. Excelsior occupies
a high position among hardy Primulas, and
will, no doubt, be eagerly sought lor by hardy
plantsmen.

tfN'K iS. IQI.

nil' (,ARDEN.

325

A USEFUL AND HARDY PINK.

Thlrf arf nianv ainatpur> whn .ur iin.iblr to
ernw the Carnation and PirolPC. but Pink-5,
.specially the white Mrs. Sinkins, readily adapt
themselves to almost any position in the ordinary
garden. There are other kinds in cultivation,
hut the one quoted is probably the best for general
purposes. It is white and delightfully fragrant.
I'inks are occasionally employed as an edging to
tlie flower border, where they look very effective, and
1 few clumps dotted here and there among other
plants are also appreciated, while for cutting pur-
poses they have few equals. Soon after the plants
pass the flowering stage propagation may ci>mmence
If it is desired to increase the stock, and even where
this is not necessary it is advisable to work up
1 few young plants at intervals of two or three
years, because from these the finest flowers are
procured.

Propagation is effected by pipings, which are
the growths at the base of the old flower-stems.
These are slipped off, and may be inserted either
in the open ground or in a garden frame or hand-
light ; but if the latter method is chosen, the lights
must not be kept too close, or the plants will, no
doubt, damp off. Before beginning operations the
..oil should be made fairly fine, when the pipings
' .111 be inserted with the linger, pressed firmly,
and watered in with a fine-rosed water-pot. Choose,
if possible, a dull, cloudy day, and if not placed
in their permanent quarters, select a shady part
of the garden. If kept moist for a few weeks,
they will soon emit roots, and may be transplaTited
to any position in October. S.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON FRUIT.

Strawberry Propagation. — Those who desire
to produce the finest crop.; of Strawberries, irrespec-
tive of whether the plants arc to be fruited in pots
or in the open garden, make it a rule to commence
propagation early. .\nd they are wise in their
generation. It is also excellent practice, though
It cannot always be adopted, to secure runners
from plants which have flowered but have not been
permitted to carry their crops. The object of
this is to ensure the finest possible runners at the
earhest possible date. Generally, the first runner
on a strig is the best, but sometimes the second
one is superior, in which event it should be
selected, but it is not desirable that more than one
on a strig shall be taken, except under compulsion.
When pegging down is done in the alleys, an
abundance of refuse manure or sweet leaf-soil
ought to be incorporated with the ordinary soil,
as the young roots will cling to it and enable the
plants to be moved with a ball when the crucial
time comes. Preference should, however, be
"iven to layering into plunged pots or squares of
turf inserted grass side downwards, more par-
ticularly when the plants are wanted for culture
in pots. It will be necessary, in any event, to
apply water in dry weather, or satisfactory roots
will not be formed.

Thinning. — The thinning of crops cannot be
put in hand too early after it is once clearly seen
which fruits are naturally taking the lead in swell-
ing. Neglect of thinning spells small fruits,
hut it has the still more disastrous effect of
prejudicing the crop in the succeeding season ;
in fact, when a tree is overcropped in the early
stages, it is often thrown into that abnormal I

condition which spells a crop in alternate years,
whereas, when rational methods prevail, there is
fruit in all seasons, provided that nothing, such as
bad weather, over which the grower has no control,
comes along.

Pincliing Gooseberries and Currants.— When

these valuable Iruits are in excellent health, they
produce an immense number of summer shoots,
and it behoves the cultivator to reduce them with
a free hand. They deprive the swelling crops
of the light and air which they demand to enable
them to put on perfect colour and develop the
finest flavour, and they rob the buds at the base
of the spurs of the same essentials to proper
progress. The initial pinching is generally to about
six leaves, but the exact number must, of course,
be decided by the condition of affairs prevailing
in each plant. Later, other growths will start,
and these must, in their turn, be reduced ; the
accepted rule is to two buds. This treatment is
wise with all forms of plants, but is imperative
in the case of the popular cordon.

Wall Trees. — In addition to the training which
has to proceed in wall trees throughout the whole
of the growing season, it is most important that
the soil shall be maintained pleasantly moist
at the roots. Immediately there comes complete
dryness the plants lose their power to imbibe food.

doors as generally as they might be to advantage,
but one has doubts upon the point when one sees the
wretched specimens of many gar<lens. The Vines
are never pruned, the bunches are never thinned
and the plants are never watered, with the inevitable
result that the crop is a miserable apology for what
Grapes ought to be. At this stage it will be neces-
sary to thoroughly moisten the soil, and if a shortage
of food is suspected, add a heavy application of
liquid manure. See that the laterals bearing

bunches are stopped at one or two joints be\ d

the fruit, according to tlie spare availablf for
perfect leaf development.

GARDENS OF TO-DAY.

A NOTABLE RIVERSIDE GARDEN;
TAPLOW COURT.

THOSE who seek pleasure in the neighboui-
ing reaches of the Thames are familiar
with the site of Taplow Court, the grounds
of which extend a mile and a half
along the liver above Maidenhead.
But few know anything of the intensclv
interesting associations of this historic spot. The
situation is a prominent one, occupying a site on a
spur of the Chiltern Hills which has been lived on

SOUTH FRONT OF TAPLOW COURT, SHOWING TUMULUS OR ANCIENT BURIAL PLACE.

and the progress of the crops is arrested auto-
matically. Wall borders are never as moist as
the soil in the open quarters of the garden, because
some rain must be thrown off, while if the walls
are of bricks, the trouble is accentuated, since
the bricks themselves absorb much moisture from
the ground. The keen grower is constantly on
the watch, and when the soil approaches dryness
he gives it a thorough soaking, and perhaps supple-
ments it with weak liquid manure. .\n occasional
heavy hosing also does an appreciable amount
of good.

Outdoor Grapes. — There are many people who
hold the opiuion thai Grapes are not grown out of

continuously from time immemorial. At the
present time Taplow Court is the residence
of Lord Desborough, who takes his name from the
Hundred of Desborough, which includes most of his
old constituency of South Bucks and also Marlow,
which, Lird Desborough's great-grandfather,
Pascoe Grenfell, represented in Parliament from
i8o2 to 1820. In the time of Alfred the Great,
the county of Bucks was divided into Hundreds.

In an o!d churchyard on the south front of Taplow
Court is a large, grass-covered mound or tumulus.
This was the burial-place of a Viking, who probably
came up the river and was killed in battle on
the top of the hill. This tumulus, of which an

•Vifi

THE GARDEN.

[June 28, 1913.

boulter's weir as seen from the well-wooded
grounds at taplow court.

trees planted by His Majesty King
(ieorge V. and Queen Mary. Among
other notable personages who have
likewise planted trees in the Cedar
Walk are the Duke and Duchess of
Connaught, the Duchess of Saxe-
Coburg, Princess Mary of Wales, the
Duke of Portland, Prince Arthur of
Connaught. Princess Patricia of
Connaught, the Crown Prince and
Crown Princess of Sweden. Prince
Christopher of Greece. fYince George
I if (ireece. Prince Fushimi of Japan,
Lord Desborough, Lord Addington.
the Hon. Monica Grenfell, the
RifUt Hi.n. T. I' Halsey, Pro.
(iiand Master o( England; Sir
Arthur Godley, K.C.B. ; the Right
Hon. H. H. Asquith, M.P. ; the
Right Hon. A. J. Balfour, M.P. ;
Earl Grey, Viscount Milner, the Right
Hiin. J. B. Haldane, M.P. ; the Right
Hun. Alfred Lyttelton, M.P. ; and
the Right Hon. J. Chamberlain, M.P.
A great variety of trees, including
Oak, Elm. Ash, Beech, Sycamore,
Poplar, Box and Yew, flourish in the
grounds, which, by the by, are
situated over chalk. The Spurge
Laurel or Daphne Laureola grows
freely under the shade of trees,
while even Rhododendrons, which
usually do not grow well over a
chalkv

beds are brilliant with Pelargoniums Henry
Jacoby, ^dged with Flower of Spring.

Among the much-prized garden ornaments are
three stone urns, presented by Queen Anne to the
Earl of Orkney, then proprietor of Taplow Court,
who commanded the right wing at the Battle of
Blenheim. Two recent additions to the garden
take the form of handsome Italian gates and a
fountain with mosaic basin, both of which were
presented to Lord and Lady Desborough on the
occasion of their silver wedding.

Herbaceous borders and the Rose garden are much
admired, and add to the beautv of this delightful
garden. The rock garden — unlike some of the
modern examples, where rocks and labels form
the iiiust prominent features — is freely planted
Willi cild-vvorld flowers, forming a happy blending
of a wild garden with that of a rock garden. The
two illustrations pages 324. and 327 of this phase of
gardening give a fair idea of the charming effects
now to be seen. The tall spikes of Foxgloves
stand out in the background from a wealth of
greenery of hardy Ferns. Clumps of Irises here
and there are interspersed with London Pride,
while C' rydalis. Periwinkle and .\rabis each does
its work in clothing large stones and rocks.
The rest is filled in with large patches of Cerastium
and such easily-grown subjects as Thrift, Iberis.
Rockfoils, Stonecrops and dwarf Campanulas.

We cannot bring these notes to a close without
paying tribute to Lord Desborough, who is the type
of Englishman that every Britisher admires.
Hi^ whole-hearted interest in manly sports, such as

illustration appears on the previous page, was opened
in 1883, when a large number of gold and silver and
glass vessels were found, together with the remains of
the warrior's sword and spear, and these have been
deposited in the British Museum. The tumulus,
when opened, was found to consist largely of chipped
flints, showing that the site had been occupied
for some time by the people of the Flint Age. There
are other tumuli in the woods above the river which
have not been opened, notably the one under an
iild Oak tree which is reported to have been planted
by Queen Elizabeth during her imprisonment at
Taplow Court in the reign of her sister Mary ; the
tree is thought, however, to be of greater age. A
pond near the house — now, by the way, aglow
with Irises and Water Lilies — is knowii as Bapsey
Pond, and is claimed to have been used as a pool
for baptisms by Early Christians.

The Cedar Walk. — From an arboricultural
point of view the outstanding feature is unquestion-
ably seen in the stately and majestic Cedars that
have been planted with a free hand in these exten-
sive gardens. One veteran Cedar of Lebanon,
obviously the oldest in the place, is considered to
be one of the finest specimens in the country. The
girth of this tree, taken on the occasion of our
visit, was found to be 16 feet, measured 5 feet
from the base. Its history is lost in obscurity, but
from its appearance it is probably one of the oldest
in the country. It is worth noting, however, that
none of the original Cedars of Lebanon introduced
to this country is still standing. This is the opinion
of our best authorities, and while there is some
doubt concerning the date of introduction, it was
probably about the middle of the seventeenth cen-
tury. A magnificent Cedar Walk is one of the fea-
tures of the place. Within recent years this has been
extended, and is now half a mile long. The continua-
tion was started by trees planted by the late King
Edward VII. and Queen Alexandra, and is finished by

soil,
give a fairly good ac-
count of themselves.

Among a number
of shrubs from New-
Zealand presented by
the late Right Hon.
Richard Seddon were
observed one or two
fine specimens of
Pittosporum eugeni-
oides, which were
perfectly happy in
the garden outside,
even though it is a
subject usually rele-
gated to the green-
house.

The Flower Gar-
den. — The formal
garden near to the
house is well designed
with bold and effec-
tive beds. Tulips are
extensively used for
spring effect. Early
and late varieties are
planted alternately,
and these, with a
grniindwork of pink
and blue Mvosotis,
keep uj) a long
displa\- of bloom.
Standard varieties of
Tulips, such as Clara
Butt, Pink Beauty,
Inglesccunbc Yellow,
Pride of Haarlem
and White Swan, are
much in favour. At
the present time the

THE FAMOUS CEDAR

WALK, TAPLOW COURT, WHICH IS HALF A
MILE LONG.

June 2S. 1913.]

THE Gx\RDEN.

327

swiiumiiig, rowing, fencing, boxing, &c., in each
nf which hp has achieved great success, nee'ds
no further comment here. As Chairman of the
Thames Conservancy it is fitting that the riverside
residence of Taplow Court should be in the pos-
session of one who cherishes its associations in
so high a depree.

THE GREENHOUSE.

CANNAS IN THE GREENHOUSE AND
FLOWER GARDEN.

IN tilt iiiii-.t-i vmen's catalogues of twenly-tive
tti thirty years ago the only Canna that
was recommended for the sake of its
flowers was Caima iridiflora, the others
being regarded solely as ornamental foliage
plants. Now, however, all this is changed,
and both for the decoration of the greenhouse
and the embellishment of the outdoor
garden Cannas occupy a promineni
position. This is not to be wondereil
at, as the flowers of many of them
are really gorgeous, and a succession
is kept up for a long time, added
to which the leafage is very hand-
some. For the present-day race of
Cannas we are, in the first place,
indebted to M. Crozy, then of Lyons,
who devoted a great deal of time
and attention to their improvement.
The result of this was first manifest
in the year 1888, when some half-
a-dozen varieties were given first-
class certificates by the Royal Horti-
cultural Society, that honour being
easier to gain then than it is now.
From their showy character these
Cannas made quite a furore, and for
trade purposes they were propagated
as rapidly as possible. What is
more, the raising of new varieties
was taken up by others, so that
each year saw additions thereto.
Striking, from their novelty, as
were those of 1888, they are now
quite out of the running, the more
recent varieties being in all respects
superior to the early ones.

For the embellishment of the
greenhouse these Cannas may be
grown in different ways. In the
first place, good flowering examples
may be grown in 6-inch pots, and,
if liberally fed, they will yield
a wealth of blossoms. Larger examples can, of
course, be readily obtained, either by increasing
the size of the pot or by growing them in tubs.
In this way they are ver.y useful for the decoration
of the conservatory, or for standing out during the
summer on lialconies, terraces and similar positions.
Besides this, they are of great service for bedding
out during the summer montlis, that is, if then-
somewhat hungry nature is taken into account.
This fact was forcibly brought home to mc during
the hot, dry summer of two years ago. Having
occasion to visit two different gardens, I found in
one some beds of Cannas which should liavc been
very fine, but were simply struggling for exist-
ence. The beds in which they were growing had
the soil heaped up above the siurounding ground,
as is so often seen, the result being that it was
quite impossible to keep the roots supplied witli
an adequate amount of moisture. In the other

the beds were finished off somcwliat saucer fashion,
so as to conserve all the moisture, and the condition
of the plants was splendid.

When these Cannas are grown m pots, a desirable
feature is that they can be safely wintered almost
anywhere if kept free from frost. Another point
is the readiness with which they can be increased,
as for propagating purposes an established plant
can be divided up into as many pieces as there are
crowns or eyes ; and, placed under conditions
favourable to growth, each will form a flowering
plant in a short space of time. Cannas need a
fairly rich soil, such as two-thirds good loam to
one-third well-decayed manure, while a sprinkling
of sand will serve to keep all open, (iood flowering
examples may be purchasi'd at this season at a com-
paratively cheap rate ; but, owing to the expense of
carriage, many prefer to note the best when in flower,
and obtain them during the winter in a dormant
state. At that time the rhizomes can be sent by post.

ORCHID NOTES.

CYMBIDIUMS.

PROBABLY no group of Orchids has
attained such popularity during the
last few years as the Cymbidiums,
and this is undoubtedly caused by the
reintroduction of that beautiful species
C. insigne (syn. Sanderi). It was
first discovered by M. G. Bronkart in 1900, who
found it growing along ravines in Annam. Since
then M. Micholitz (Messrs. Sander's collector)
has sent it home in quantity, and now there is
scarcely a collection of renown that does not con-
tain this fine plant. The flowers are while, tinged
with rose pink, while the lip is handsomely marked
with rosy crimson. It has proved a magnificent
parent, and among the progeny already shown are
C. Pauweisii (insigne x lowianum), C. Alexander)

liARLY SUMMER IN Till-: ROCK GARDEN AT TATLOW COURT.

As tastes differ so much, a selection is a difiicult
matter, but the following are all good : -Alphonse
Bouvier (rich crimson), A. Ortmann (velvety
piurple). Baron de Richter (bright apricot, lighter
edge to the petals), Black Prince (velvety maroon).
Dr. Budingen (crimson scarlet), Due Ernst (reddisli
scarlet), Elizabeth Hoss (yellow', small red dots),
Evolution (yellow, pink centre), Frau E. Kracht
(rosy salmon), F'Urst Weid (deep crimson),
fiaekwar of Baroda (yellow, large crimson spots),
J. B. Van der School (lemon yellow, purple spots),
Jupiter (scarlet, edged yellow), King Humbert
(bright reddish orange), Konigin Charlotte (dwarf,
scarlet, gold edge), Meteore (orange scarlet), M. do
Raynal (pink), Niagara (scarlet, broad yellow
margin), Ottawa (rosy cerise), R. Wallace (canary
yellow), Stuttgartia (scarlet and orange), William
Saunders (rosy crimson) and William Watson
(deep salmon). H. P

(insigne ;< eburneo-lowianum), C. gottianum
(insigne ■: ebumeum) and the pretty C. Doris
(insigne x traceyanura). Others are in commerce,
but still there is plenty of scope for new raisers.
As amateurs' Orchids, Cymbidiums occupy a leading
position, especially the easily-grown C. lowianum,
also traceyanum, eburneo-lowianum, low-griiunn,
gigauteum, eburneum and the pendent devoni-
anum. Cymbidiums last a long time in full beauty,
their graceful, arching sprays of large and attrac-
tive flowers always being admired, while as foliage
plants they are not to be despised in the Orchid-
house.

Cultural Details. — .-V-n ideal temperature is
one between 55° and 65° Fahr., the latter for the
summer months when fire-heat is needed, while
during the winter period the thermometer may
fall 5° lower, and no harm will accrue, providing
the atmosphere is on the dry side. The season for

328

THE GARDEN.

[JUNR 2S, IOI3.

repotting will soon be at hand for the majority

of lioth speeies and hyhrids, if ; uch an operation

is deemed necessary. Annual disturbance is not

required, and as a general rule every third year

will be sufficient ; but it is best to give attention

to a few plants each season, rather than repot the

whole collection at one time. A suitable rooting

medium consists of the best fibrous loam

one-half, Osmunda fibre one - fourth, and

partly-decayed Oak leaves one-fourth, with a

free admixture of finely - crushed crocks or

charcoal, well mixing the whole a week or so

liefore it is required. The group of

Orchids under consideration are strong-

nxitiiig subjects, and top-dressing is

of no avail. Healthy examples which

have filled their receptacles with roots

may be moved on intact, choosing a

pot two sizes larger. A few potsherds

should be placed in the bottom

for drainage and the soil pressed

moderately firm ; but it ought to

be just below the rim when the

operation is finished, thus allowing

ample space for watering, for " at

no time must they be permitted to

become dry at the base. If any

plants are in a bad condition, all

the old soil and decayed roots should ^

be removed, also a few of the back

pseudo-bulbs where they are numerous,

when in all probability a smaller

pot will be needed. Careful watering

and extra shade for a few weeks

will then soon pull them round. A

moist, buoyant atmosphere is essential

during the period of growth, and

shade from direct sunlight is advised,

or the plants will present a somewhat

yellow appearance. A light spray

overhead with tepid water will be

found beneficial on bright, hot days,

which not only promotes luxuriant

growth, but tends to keep insect pests

in check, particularly if the under

sides of the leaves are sprayed. Once

a year the plants ought to be

carefully sponged over with a weak

solution of some reiialile insecticide,

and at any time if scale is noticed,

a pointed stick being the best article

for its removal, while some growers

utilise an old tooth-brush for this

purpose.

Raising Seedlings. — So much in-
terest is now taken in raising Orchid
seedlings that a few words on the sub-
ject may be welcome. Cymbidium
seed may be sown on prepared pots
(as illustrated in The Garden for
January 11, r9i3) directly it is
ripe, or around the base of an estab-
lished plant, selecting one that does
not need repotting, and free from moss and
lichen growth. The chief factor towards suc-
cess in this intensely interesting, and one might say
fascinating, work is that the pots or plants are never
dry. Even if this should happen for a few
hours the results will be disastrous, because
the seed is not covered in any way. When the
first tiny leaf is made, the seedlings may be
pricked off on prepared pots and grown on
in a temperature of 60° Fahr., keeping the
p'ants sprayed over occasionally and free from
thrip. Sentinel.

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Carnation Thomas a Becket. — A very beautiful
fancy liorder (. arnatiuii of excellent size and form.

Carnation Scarlet Gem. — Of good colour, and
shapely withal. These were exhibited by Mr. C.
Blick, Warren Nurseries. Haves, Kent

Trollius patulus Bees' variety. — The plant
is 9 inches or a foot high, the green leafage
marked after the manner of these plants. The
flowers are ricli golden, li inches across, and most

r

\

fVl»

^^^

'^^

Xii.

[I

V

)

annual. It is very pretty and effective, and in
dcci>ration, wc have no doubt, will be mucli sought
after, fixhibited bv Mr. R. C. Notcutt, Woodbridgc.
Plliladelphus Norma. — This we regard as the
finest of the .Muck Oranges to date, not merely
in the size and purity of its flowers, but also in
the way they are traced upon the branches. The
flowers, which are single, really appear to occur in
long racemes. From Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart..
Dorking (gardener, Mr. W. Bain). (See page 323)

Paeonia Gismonda. — The colour is rosy pink

and till- flower fully double. It is. of course, one
of the herbaceous section. From Messrs.
R. H. Bath. Limited, Wisbech.

Rose Paul's Lemon Pillar (Noisette).

— The flowers are of large size and, as
shown, of a creamy white, doubtless
due to age. It appears to be a good
and usefiU sort. From Messrs. Paul and
Sim. Llieshunt.

Saxifraga brunoniana. — The flowers
of this pretty Himalayan species are
yellow, the petals acutely pointed. It
is, however, welcome for the rosy crim-
son colour of its numerous stolons, as
these, when seen in sunlight, are brilliant
indeed. It is a moisture-loving species,
and, given tliis. should be planted in
full sun. I-'ri)iii Messrs. William F'ells
and Son. Hitcliin.

Spiraea sargentiana. — A bushy-
habited plant with numerous white
liowers in clusters. It is very free. Fr.iin
the fh)ii. X'icary (iibbs, Elstree, Herts

Astilbe Britannia. — The flowers are
bright rosy crimson, arranged in plumes
nearly three feet high. From Mr.
Profitthch.

Rose Mrs. George Norwood. — This is

a pink-flowered sort of the Hybrid Per-
petual class. The colour may be described
as a pale Mrs. J. Laing, though the
flowers are longer and more tapering.
i;xliil)il, a 1)\ Mr Flisha Hirivs, Twyford.

Blandfordia Cunninghamii. — A

genus of Liliaceous plants, the members
of which are rarely seen. The species
now mentioned is a native of New
Soutli Wales, and has long been known
to cultivators. The flowers are crimson
red, the upper part yellow, drooping,
\ and arranged freely in a scape of about

tliree feet high. Probably a scarce plant
m cultivation to-day. From Mr. A.
Worsley. Isleworth.

Gladiolus Queen of the Whites. —

This is a rather good wiiite variety, and
the only one to which an award was
granted. Exhibited by Mr. R, Hoogstra-
tcn, Sassenhcim.

THE NEW TROLLTUS PATULU.S BEES
(About one-half natural sisc.)

attractive. The plant was well siiowu. 1-roni
Bees, Limited, Lixcrpodl.

Sweet Pea Frilled Pink. — The name is descrip-
tive, both as to colour and form. It is an interesting
novelty in the Sweet Pea world. From Messrs.
Dobbie, EdinVnirgli.

Sweet Pea Edith Taylor.— The flowers of this

are bright rose pink and of good size. Seen in
the sunlight, it is a most brilliant flower. Shown
by Mr. Thomas Stevenson, .^ddlestone, Surrey.

Statice Suworowii alba. — Just a good white
variety — not pure white — of this well-known

NEW ORCHIDS.

Two charming novelties, both gain-
ing awards of merit, were shown by Baron
Bruno Schroder, viz., Odontoglossura crispura
The Baroness, a magnificent variety of perfect
form with violet purple blotches, and Cattleya
gaskelliana Fairy Queen, a fragrant and well-
coloured variety. Messrs. Charlesworth and
Co. were given an award of merit for a
remarkable hybrid of brilliant colouring, Oncidioda
Bella (Oncidium marshallianum x Cochlioda
noetzliana).

The foregoing awards were given by th<< Royal
Horticultural Society on June 17.

NK 2M, I<>I.}. 1

THE GARDEN.

•A2(.)

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.- PRACmCAL HINTS ON WORK TO DO NOW.

THK caiiiest-roiited batch of plants will
now be getting established in their
flowering pots. Although the heavy
work of potting and placing will be
over, there will be daily attention
needed, and, although of a light nature,
it is of vast importance, and must never be neglected.
Fo! some time after the final potting is done the
plants are usually kept in blocks — that is, in several
rows abreast — but they mast be more thinly dis-
posed in good time before they get drawn up and
wi-akeiH(l tlui'l'S'

About Top-Dressings. -The time tor tluse to
he applied wdl depentl upon the condition of tlie
roots of the plants. Some cultivators keep strictly
to a rule, and do not top-dress until after the buds
are " taken." This is a mistake, as the plants may
suffer in the meantime, and they should be strong
when the buds form. .-Vgain, it is bad management
to wait and then apply one heavy surface-dressing.
Directly roots appear on the surface, put on a thin
sprinkling of rich compost. Fig. i shows a plant
on a tile, .^mple space is left for top-dressings,
and these must be applied in a series, putting on
a thin layer each time, and watering always with
a rosed watering-can. No. 2 shows the space
for the top-dressings ; No. 3, the roots from
the old ball of soil entering the new compost,
No. 4. So treated the plants are always making
progress, and, of course, liquid mauiu'e and
other stimulants mav be given in addition as
required.

The Break and Resultant Shoots. — No. 3

shows the young shoots growing after the first
break ; but some varieties give trouble in this
matter, as I will explain. On the main stem,
below the shoots selected to grow on, shoots will
also grow, as denoted at Nos. 6, 6 ; all such must be
pinched out, as shown at No. 7.

Tying and Staking. — The main stem will have
been staked at an early stage, but the yoimg shoots
— following the break — Nos. 8, 9 and 10, will
also need stakes, and when the varieties are tall-
growing they must be fastened to the wire supports.
Very dwarf varieties onh- require one strong central
stake.

Premature Bud-Formation. — Instead of a free
growth, buds form, as shown at No. 11. In a few
days' time a new shoot will grow past these buds ;
but they in tuni also bear buds when about two
inches long. In such cases it is advisable to pinch
off the top to a point denoted by the dark lines
as shown at No. 12. Very often a free growth of
shoots is obtained by this treatment, as shown in
sketch No, 13.

Plants in Their Summer Quarters. — .\ few

strong stakes driven into the ground, and wires
fastened to them, as shown in sketch No. 14, will
save the cultivator the loss of many valuable
branches and buds if the plants are made fast to
the wires in due course. The rows of wires should
he from 3 feet to 5 feet apart, according to the
height of tlie plants, and about eighteen inches
asunder in the lines from pot to pcjf. Bush plants,
especially those intended for specimens, must have
more room siill, and be set out as shown by the
circlos No, 15 If the pots are held firmly in

position, tall stakes will not be needed for the
support of these plants.

CUTTING HEDGES IN SUMMER-TIME.

To some persons it may seem a very easy task
to trim a growing hedge. The experienced fence-
man knows exactly how to do the work so as to
improve a bad hedge or keep a good one in first-rate
condition. Much may be done at this season to
remedy defects, such as hollow places at the top
and openings near tlie bottom. If the fence be a
long, straight one, the novice sliouid fix a garden
line to stakes and tiien cut tlie top siioots back
to tlie fixed line. If this be done, there can
be no great error iu trimming so as to secure an
even top surface. Passers-by are severe critics

hedge must be cut quite Iiard back to the stumps
of last year's growth ; then there will be no
danger of the fence getting out of true form. Use
stiarp, well-oiled shears. Hedges of Laurel must
be cut with a knife, removing one shoot at a time.
To cut through leaves indiscriminately with a
large pair of shears would quite spoil the appearance
of a hedge of this kind. B.

POTTING THE CHIMNEY BELL-
FLOWER.

CAMi'ANri-A I'YKAMiuAi.is is a splendid subjei t lor
growing in pots for the furnishing of cold green-
houses and conservatories during the early part
of the summer. One sometimes sees splerulidh'-
grown specimens not only in the greenhouse i>f

THE METHOD OF TOP-DRESSING AND DISBUDDING CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

of hedge-trimmers, and cause should not be given
for adverse criticism.

The base must be wider than the top, but not
out of all proportion ; the sides should slope evenly
from a given point at the bottom to one at the top.
A hedge 2 feet wide at its base should be about
sixteen inches wide at the top, both sides tapering
evenly upwards. One often sees hedges that have
been unduly hollowed out at the bottom. Such
never present a pleasing appearance, and they
readily permit dogs and fowls to go through. In
the case of fowls, they often scratch up the soil
and do their toilet under the sheltering hedge, and
quickly spoil the bank and the general appearance.
Where there are big depressions in a hedge it is
not advisaltle to leave the young shoots in that
part too long. They must be cut back to about
four inches, and at the next cutting left a couple of
inches longer, and so on, until the low portion has
filled in a solid form to the normal level of the
hedge. The young shoots on a perfectly-formed

a keen amateur cultivator, but also in groups at
shows — groups of miscellaneous plants arranged
for effect. Much care is needed in order to grow
good plants. If they are allowed to remain for
a considerable time ni boxes or seedling beds
before being placed in flower-pots, great difficulty
will be experienced in getting them into good con-
dition for flowering. These plants, even in a verv
young state, produce long tap-roots and few of a
fibrous nature, so that it is advisable to place them
in the pots at as early a stage of growth as possible.
Where convenient, use deep, narrow pots. Do not
cut off any portion of the tap-root, but twist it
round so that it may be potted whole. Use a
medium heavy compost, made porous by the
addition of sand, and then plunge the pots to tlicir
rims in ashes in a cold frame. Between the pots
leave a space of 6 inches. Repot tlic plants directly
they require more rooting space, using a similar
compost with the addition of some well-rotted
manure. .\von.

m)

THE GARDEN.

[June 28. 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Pleasure Grounds.

Routine Work.— I-nr the u.xi lucntli ur twi
mowing, edging and ruUiiig ul patlis will be Ihc
principal items ol work, and to keep things in good
nrder, nothing must be allowed to get behind.
Even nLowmg if left over for one week makes a
donlile amount lor the following week, so it is wise
to skim the lawns over with a light machine even
if there is not a heav3' crop of grass.

Shrubs. — Those planted early in the season,
or even last autumn, must be periodically inspected,
and. on the slightest sign of drought, cop'imis water-
ings should be given. Specimen trees may even
have to be spraved overhead morning and evening
to ensure them' coming through a trying time of
dnuight. Mulcliing also with short manure or
leaf-mould is a distinct advantage in such cases,
and may help In save the lives of many valu.ible
shrubs iir trees.

The Rose Garden.

lust now there is much to do in the Rose garden,
as not only must the young shoots be kept free from
fly by hosing overhead or spraying, but the plants
must be kept well watered if a full measure of
success is to be attained with them. Removal
of the dead blooms must also be attended to,
as nothing tends more to make the garden hjok
untidy than numbers of dead and dying petals
lying about.

Mildew. — Wherever this is noticed, a little dry
sulphur should be sprinkled over the foliage early
in the morning, and, \<'hen the sun gets up, the fumes
will in all probability prevent it from spreading.
Where the attack is more general, spraymg with a
fungicide must be resorted to, and this may have
to be repeated weekly to keep it in check, but an
endeavour must be made to keep it off the opening
flowers as much as possible.

Plants Under Glass.

Caladiums that are well r.)..ted may be helped
a little with waterings of cow-manure ; but these,
being very soft-rooted subjects, must not be given
strong doses of liquid or artificial fertilisers.
Specimen plants in large pots should be carefully
staked out, so as to give each leaf as much space
as possible to develop, and where these plants are
to be used in the winter garden or conservatory,
they tnust be inured to rather more air than is
usual under the ordinary growing conditions
of the plant stove.

Achimenes are growing freely and should now
be staked, using a very small twig to each growth.
Keep the plants in such a position that they do
not become attenuated, though a little shade is
quite necessary for their well-being. -\s they
commence to bloom give them bi-weekly waterings
with liquid manure, with a little Clay's Fertilizer
occasionally as an extra stimulant.

Cyclamen nicely established in 3-inch or 4-inch
pots should be potted on into their flowering pots
at once, a fairly rich, porous compost suiting them
best. From now onwards a frame with a cool ash
bottom will suit them well, frequently spraying the
plants to keep insect pests in check. A little shade on
the glass during bright weather is also essential.

Medeola asparagoides also should be potted
on and placed in positions where the plants may be
trained up cotton or strings. A stove is not at
all necessary for the cultivation of this useful
plant, as more hard and useful sprays are obtained
from an intermediate or cool house. A further
batch of seedlings may be raised, and these, if
kept growing through the winter, will provide
really good material for early spring decoration,
a time when it is very much in demand.

The Kitchen Garden.
Asparagus. — Now that there are plenty of
other vegetables to be had, the Asparagus-bed
should lie left severely alone, allowing all the growths
that are made from now to mature, thus building
up good crowns for next season. On light soils a
mulching of short manure, well watered in, will
help the growth considerably, or a dressing or
two of an approved fertiliser may be given. Where
a mulching is not given, keep the beds clear of
weeds by carefully hoeing or hand weeding, as
weeds allowed to go to seed prove a pest for years
to come.

Brassicas. — Continue to plant Brassicas as they
become fit or as the ground becomes vacant,
choosing, if possible, a showery time for the purpose,
late-sown plants often proving more serviceable
than those put in very early.

Coleworts. — A- further sowing of this useful
vegetable should be made, and Christmas Drum-
head, a very hardy little Cabbage, sown at this date
is exceptionally useful for cutting during the
early winter months.

Fruits Under Glass.

Inside Vine Borders need plenty ni w.iter
at this season, and Vines still swelling their fruit
may be carefully fed, though it is not advisable
to be too free with manure while they are in the
stoning stage ; but after this the late Vines
will be ready for a couple of good dressings two
or three w'eeks apart.

Outside Borders. — Where these are rehed upon
lor late (irapes, frequent waterings may be neces-
sary, or, if experiencing a wet time, manure should
be sprinkled on the surface tor the rain to wash it
in. iVIuIching is not really necessary, but where
the border is very light or dry, a light mulching
may be given, though 1 am inclined to think
that the extra warmth in an nnmulched border
is (onducive to better quality in the fruit.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Mulching Fruit Trees.— By this date the

majority of fruit borders will have got pretty warm,
and if dry weather ensues, it may be an advantage
to mulch all the trees carrying a good crop of fruit,
whether it be Apples. Pears, Plums, Peaches, or
Apricots, giving a good watering immediately
afterwards to settle the mulch down and to wash
the manuri.d properties into the soil rather th.an
let them be evaporated intn tlie air.

Summer Pruning and Training.— Though I
touched on this subject a week or tw'o ago, it was
rather earlv then for the majority of trees ; but
now the greater portion of the trained trees may be
gone over, reducing the growth to 3 inches or
4 inches or, in some instances, even less. When
the trees have not developed sufficiently to cover the
whole of the space they are to occupy, the leading
shoots should he tied in carefully, bearing m mind
at all times what is required for the further develop-
ment or furnishing of the trees.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wobiini Place Gardens, Addleslone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Staking Hollyhocks. — Stakes are a necessary
evil, and should obtrude as little as possible.
.Although Hollyhocks require tall stakes, they,
happily, unlike Dahlias, can do without them
for a considerable time, but the want must now
be supplied. Stout stakes about four and a-half
inches high are what thev want. Tie with binder
twine, but do not fix a tie nearer the top of the
plant than 2 feet, or strangulation will result.

Oriental Poppies. — These make a brave show
during the month of June and the early part of
July — too gaudy for some tastes ; but in addition
to the flaunting red of the type, there are now
several varieties having flowers in subdued art
shades. It is late enough now to sow these ; but
if sown within the next week or ten days, they will
make nice plants for planting next spring.

Carnations are now in bud, and will be grateful
for a little stimulant to assist in swelling the buds.
Soot, fowl-manure, nitrate of soda — any of these
will do if applied sparingly* If nitrate of soda
is used, care should be taken that it does not 1 onie
in contact with the foliage, which it will burn.
.\ttend to tying or training, according to the type
of stake used.

The Rose Garden.

Tying Climbers. — Climbing Hoses are now
making rapid growth, which should be regulated
and tied in as growth advances, .-Ml superfiucms
main shoots should be cut away, so that those
retained may get as much light and air as p(.issible.

Cultivating the Soil. — Nothing contributes
more ti. the welfare of Roses than to keep the soil
reguUarly stirred.

Carpeting. — Opinions differ widely regarding
the practice of carpethig Rose beds and borders.
Where exhibition blooms are aimed at, carpeting
is out of the question ; but where Roses are grown
for general decorative purposes, the system has
much to commend it, especiallv where a bed is
planted with a single varietv iuid it is one possessed
of considerable vigour. \'iolas are undoubtedly
the best subjects for this work, and whites, pale
maiives and pale yellows like Primrose Danre
will, generally speaking, prove the most effective.
Those who intend adopting the system should be
thinking about stock for autumn propagation.

The Rock Garden.

Veronica saxatilis. Ilic bright blue flowers
oi this prostrate shrubby \cronua are very attrac-
tive, holding their own with the varieties of Litho-
spermum prostratum. It is bv no means particular
as to soil.

Potentillas. — Some of the dwarfer species make
excellent subjects for the rock garden. Specially
to be commended are P. alba (white, 6 inches),
P. nitida (pale rose, b inches), P. nivalis (white,
with silvery foliage, 0 inches) and P. Thurberi
(reddish brown, 0 inches). None of the Cinquefoils
require special treatment, except th.it they enjoy flie
sunshhie.

Plants Under Glass.

Hydrangeas. — Autumn-stmck plants with single
trusses, if they have been forwarded in heat, will
soon be getting past their best, and should have
the flower-heads cut away. They should then
be placed in an airy frame and receive some feeding
to fit them either for producing a crop of bloom
next season or for furnishing vigorous cuttings.

Streptosolen Jamesonii. — The deep orange
flowers lit this conservatory climber are very
telling. Spring-struck plants should be fit for a
shift into 5-inch pots. Sandy loam suits them,
and if a little peat is added they will appreciate it.
Shade only during very strong sunshine, and after
.\ugust comes in gives them all the sunshine
available.

Fruits Under Glass.

Guavas. — Some fauiilu-s .ire partial to this
fruit, which is generally grown on the back wall
of a vinery. The fruits will now be swelling,
and the plants should be assisted by occasional
doses of liquid manure.

Tomatoes. — Plants ripening their fruits should
get all the light possible, and while overwatering
should be guarded against, the plants should never
be .dlowed to get dry at the root, or cracked fruits
will be the result. If seed-saving is intended, the
first fruits on a plant are the most vigorous, and
should be selected for the purpose. Choose fruits
typical of the variety in hand, always avoiding
corrugated fruits.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Taking Strawberry Runners. — This work may
still be do.ie, but no time should be lost if
autumn planting is the object in view. Layering
in pots as recommended for forcing purposes is
the best plan, but very good results can be obtained
by layering on small squares of freshly-cut turf
laid grass side downwards.

Protecting Strawberries.— U not already done,

nets must be put on forthwith. In buying nets it
is well to remember that when diamond pattern
nets are stretched their full width, they shrink by
one-third of their nominal length, so that when
a net 50 yards in length as per list is stretched to
its full width. It will prove to be only 33 yards in
length. As mice are sure to make their appearance,
a few traps should be set in each break.

The Vegetable Garden.

Turnips.— Make another mowing of White
Early Milan for autumn use and thin siiccessional
sowings. Remove plants running to seed, as they
roll the ground in the effort of reproduction.

Spinach. — It is next to impossible to get a supply
of Spinach in the height of summer, and those who
pKanted a portion of a south border with New Zea-
land .Spinach will now be reaping the benefit. It is
perhaps not generally known that as a substitute
for real Spinach the leaves of the Silver or Seakale
Beet are superior to the so-called Spinacli Beet.

Onions must continue to have some feeding
material of a nitrogenous nature. The hoe should
also be kept going among the crop, and hand
weeding must be resorted to in the Hues.

Charles Comfort.

Byoomfichi Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

JUNE jN, I9I3.]

THE GARDEN.

SOME GOOD THINGS IN A
SCOTTISH GARDEN.

1HAVE always contended that everyone ought
to cultivate the very best strains of both
flowers and vegetables, as the labour
entailed is identical, while the results are
altogether superior. With a poor strain
of anything there is not the slightest satis-
faction to be derived from first-rate culture, only
disappointment, and eventually a disposition on
the part of the grower not to take undue trouble.
How different it is when we know that the plants
we tend daily will, with proper attention, produce
crops that we can be proud of, and for which we
have had no extra labour or trouble. I am in the
happy position of being able to carry out my ideas
on this subject, my employers delighting in having
the best procurable strains of everything. A few
notes on some of the finer things we have obtained
(luring the last dozen years may be of interest
li> others situated in a cold, late district such as
we have here. I will take flowers first, and only
mention a few of the outstanding kinds that
invariably succeed here.

Myosotis. — At the present moment we have a
very lo\-ely bed of Barr's Alpine Blue Myosotis,
which has been greatly admired. I am safe in saying
that it is by far the finest Forget-me-not we have
ever tried. It comes absolutely true, is a lovely-
deep blue colour, and the stems are nearly a foot
long, which makes it admirable for cutting. It
is very hardy, a most profuse bloomer, and
is earlier by a week or ten days than Sutton's
Perfection. It may still be sown if a box set in a
greenhouse is used. A real gem.

Delphiniums. — These thrive remarkably well.
The plants in a large bed on a west border are
never less than to feet high, the spikes of large
flowers being 5 feet long. Grown from Barr's seeds.
Polyanthuses. — We grow two very beautiful
strains, both being very fine in their way.
Storrie and Storrie's Superb Mixed are prominent,
because of the large size and wonderfully varied
and brilliant colouring of the flowers. This grand
strain also retains the delightful perfume of the old
English Cowslips. The Munstead strain of white
and yellow shades is also very choice and showy,
the blooms and trusses being large and fine. It
is well to raise a batch each year of these fine strains,
as there is a tendency to deteriorate after the
plants have bloomed twice.

Aqullegias. — The Long-spurred forms are \'ery
beautiful and useful for table decoration.
Dobbie's strain of this fine plant is the best I
have yet come across. The colours are not only
varied, but most delicate and pleasing. Seed
should be sown annually, ,is these fine hybrid strains
do not usually live long.

Nemesias. — To Messrs. Sutton we are indebted
for the introduction of this, our finest dwarf annual
plant. Sutton's strains of both the original
large-flowered type and the dwarf hybrid
kind, with smaller flowers, are still the finest
we have yet seen, and annually give a gorgeous
display. Personally, I much prefer the dwarf
hybrid type, which Messrs. Sutton have of late
years brought to great perfection. Few plants
give a more delightful range of beautiful colours,
while the free-growing and profuse-blooming
qualities of the plants are above praise.

Antirrhinums. — This is another almost indis-
pensable plant nowadays, and as the range of colours

now available in separate packets is very large,
everyone's taste is catered for. Here we prefer the
intermediate type, and grow quite a number of
colours each year. The best are usually Barr's
Queen of the North, Barr's Yellow, Sunset, Sutton's
Deep Crimson and Sutton's Orange King. Antir-
rhinums seldom come entirely true from seed.

Pentstemons. — A wonderful improvement has
taken place in these noble plants of late years.
Colours are now much brighter and varied than
formerly, and a grand display can be had by
massing in colours, or by having large mixed beds
or borders. Here we like the lovely pink Day-
dream, raised by Mr. Hay while at Hopetoun, and
Preston Hall Seedling, which is larger and deeper
in colour than Newbury Gem, from which, I think,
it was a seedling. Myddelton Gem is also very
fine, as are Lady Mary Hope and Lord Charles
Hope. George Holmes and White Giant are grand,
but I lost both through drought two years ago.

Giant Daisies. — Sutton's strain of these is
superb, the blooms when well grown being as
large as bouquet Asters. The flowers are borne
on long, stifl stems, so for cut flowers they are
admirable.

Sweet Peas. — These thrive exceedingly well. We
grow about thirty good named sorts each year.
Favourites are Edrom Beauty, Dobbie's Sunproof
Crimson, Isobel Malcolm, John Ingman, Etta
Dyke, The Marquis, Red Star, Lady Miller,
Constance Oliver, W. P. Wright, Asta Ohn, Helen
Lewis, Nubian, Othello, Apple Blossom Spencer,
Vermilion Brilliant and Hercules.

Roses. — These are quite a speciality, our collec-
tion comprising at least 150 varieties. We annually
add some of the newer introductions, but a good
many of these have had to be dispensed with
for various reasons. The chief favourites grown
in quantity are General Macarthur, Mme. Ravary,
M. Paul Lede, Mme. Melanie Soupert, Lady Ash-
tomi, Hugh Dickson, Mrs. John Laing, Gustav
Grunerwald, Liberty, Caroline Testout, Viscoimtess
Folkestone, Lyons Rose and Mrs. David McKee.

Herbaceous and Alpine Plants.— Of these
we cultivate a large number of kinds, but space
forbids my going into the names of these. I may
say, however, that both old favourites and up-to-
date varieties are well represented.

Fruit. — This is not a fruit district in a general
sense, but a few kinds do remarkably well. Of Apples,
Warner's King and James Grieve are the best. Pear
Louise Bonne of Jersey is the only one that does
much good. Black and Red Currants are always very
fine. Raspberry Superlative is always grand,
both in size and quantity. Of Strawberries,
Laxton's Leader is invariably the best, carrying a
very heavy crop of large fruits.

Vegetables. — These thrive well, for the most
part, on our rich, heavy soil. Of Peas we grow a
very large quantity, the following varieties being
always dependable : The Pilot, Early Boimtiful,
Senator (a grand Pea), Glory of Devon, Carter's
Daisy, The Lincoln, Dreadnought, Superlative,
Royal Salute (the best late Pea) and The Gladstone.
Cauliflower is always good, Sutton's Magnum
Bonum, Sutton's Favourite and Veitch's Autumn
Giant being the best. Sutton's Favourite is the
best Cauliflower I know. Brussels Sprouts are
greatly in demand, Dickson's Newtomiards Gem
being by far the best. Of Cabbages, Sutton's
Flower of Spring for autumn sowing'and Sutton's
Favourite for spring sowing are imsm-passed.
Lettuces of first-rate quality are always appreciated,
and after many trials I can find nothing to equal

Carter's Holborn Standard and New York (;iant.
The former for earliest sowing is superb, and stands
a very long time before bolting. New York Giant
is a grand summer Lettuce, for, notwithstanding
its huge size, it has never the least sign of coarse-
ness. Tomatoes are always in demand, and we
endeavour to keep up supplies for as long a season
as possible. Laird's Supreme is still the best here,
but Freedom, an American variety, is also very
fine. Other varieties we always grow and which
succeed very well are Stirling Castle, Carter's
Simrise, Sutton's Earliest and Magnus. The
last named is the finest flavoured of all Tomatoes
and a large, handsome fruit. It is of American
origin.

Indoor Flowers. — Sutton's Dwarf Hybrid Schi-
zanthus is excellent, the colours being so beautiful
and varied and the flowers of such a fine size.
This strain is a most profuse bloomer. Cyclamen
Sutton's Giant and Sutton's Prize are always
magnificent. This year they flowered for five
months. We treat these as biennials. Primula
obconica gigantea (Barr's strain) is by far the
finest I have seen anywhere. Plants that started
to bloom in December are still at this date (June 3)
wonderfully fresh and bright. Ware's double and
single tuberous-rooted Begonias are grown in
quantity and are always greatly admired. Th(^
double kinds from a packet of seed are truly superb.
Space forbids mention of other plants grown under
glass.

Preston House, Linlithgow. C. Blair.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
ivith that object will make a special feaUire of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender arc required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be vsed in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
sm,all scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Pubiisher.

FLOWER GARDEN.

SWEET PEAS DAMAGED (R. H. S.).— The specimens
of Sweet Peas sent were too far gone to enable us even
to guess what was the source of the trouble ; but we
should think that, in all probability, slugs are to blame,
and we imagine careful search with a lantern after dark
would be likely to reveal them. Potassium permanganate
in strong solution is excellent against these pests.

PHLOX AND EELWORM (Carlisle).— The Phlox is
badly attacked by the stem eelworm. When once a plant
is attacked there is no cure, and no attacked plants should
be used for propagation purposes. It would be better
not to plant Phlox on the infested ground, nor to plant
things liable to attack, such as bulbs and the like. The
soil should have a dressing of sulphate of potash (at the
rate of Icwt. to 2cwt. to the acre) in the spring, or kainit
(at the rate of 4cwt. to 6cwt. to the acre) in the autumn.
Infested parts of plants should be removed and burnt.

LILIES DISEASED (B. £.). — We can only say of your
Lilies that it is one of the worst examples of the Lily fungus
we have seen. The only thing to do is to gather up and
burn at once every vestige of it. Indeed, it would be better
to dig up and burn the bulbs also, and give the garden
a complete rest from Lilies in general for two or three
years. The Tulips will not be suffering from this disease,
but from another peculiar to its own tribe. In their
case also collect and burn all evidence of the disease,
and later, when you lift the bulbs for drying, dust
them lightly with sulphur. In replanting, give them a
fresh site and, if possible, fresh soil also.

332

THE GARDEN.

[June 28, 1913.

IRIS AND NARCISSUS BULBS ATTACKED [E. F. C.).—
The Iris hullis are attacked by the bulb mite (Ehizoslyphus
Behinopus), and the Narcissus bulb by that pest and the
small Narcissus flv in addition. Either the soil is badly
infested with the former pest, or the bulbs were already
attacked when they were planted.

LUPINES AND IRIS (Bromsgrove Reader). — Lupines
are often attacked in the way you describe, and sometimes
a sort of root-rot occurs that produces the trouble. In
any case, the cause of the bud-dropping lies at the root
of the plant. It may be drought or even insects attacking
the plant there. The Iris pallida varieties are often
dilatory in coming into flower. Give them another year.
We presume they are in full sun, with the rhizomes on the
surface.

VIOLET RUST lA. IT.).— The fungus on the Viola is
Puccinia viols!, the Violet rust. This early, cup-like
Etage is followed by brown spore masses, and late in the
autumn by black spores which carry the disease over the
winter. The fungus very commonly attacks the wild
Violet, but it does not attack other plants than those
belonging to the genus Viola. If it is only in a small
quantity, root it out and destroy it immediately. If
there is much, begin with a fresh stock of plants in
another place next year.

IS LABURNUM POISONOUS TO PLANTS? (If. W. TF.).
So far as our observation goes, we liave never noticed any
more serious results from planting beneath Laburnum
trees than from planting beneath any other kinds of trees.
As a rule, plants of herbaceous character fail to do them-
selves iu.stice when planted beneath trees, partly by reason
of the tree roots impoverishing the soil, partly by drought,
and partly by shade, some trees, of course, having a more
serious effect than others upon the undergrowth. We
imagine that it can only be a case for further experiments.
Perhaps there is something wrong with the working of
your soil.

ASTERS FAILING SUDDENLY (-7. H.).— The sudden
failin" of the fiermau Asters has been attributed to many
different causes, white worms, eelworms and fungi, and
no doubt all of them are responsible at different times for
the trouble, but it is, in all probability, generally duo to
the attack of a species of Fusarium. This fungus rests
in the soil, and attacks first the root, then the stem, the
water-vessels of which it fills up so that no flow of water
is possible, the leaves thus rapidly wilting. There
is another soil fungus, at times causing root-rot, responsible
for the trouble, and in both cases the need for avoiding
planting in places where the disease has previously been
IS one to be borne in mind. Probably thorough liming
of the soil and the sterilisation by steam of the soil used
for sowing the seed in would reduce the attack very
considerably.

FATSIA JAPONICA (Headingtey).—'i:he name of the
plant of which a leaf was enclosed is Fatsia japonica, often
known as Aralia Sieboldii. It is sometimes, but quite
erroneously, termed the Castor Oil Plant, the true Castor
Oil Plant being a totally different subject. Your plant is
but following its usual habit, that is, as the new gro\vth
develops, the mature leaves on the lower part of the stem
drop off. You can, if you like, cut your plant back to
within 9 inches or a foot of the pot, when it will in time
break out again. It you just pinch the top off, you will
still have the bare stem, as it will push out from the upper
portion. There is yet another way in which your Fatsia
may be dealt with, and that, provided you have a sheltered
spot in the garden, will perhaps oive you as much satis-
faction as any. This is to plant it outside and obtain a
young specimen for your window. In the neighbourhood
of London, Fatsia japonica is a valuable evergreen shrub,
and as hardy as the common Laurel. Even in your colder
climate it should succeed if planted in a sheltered spot.
Once established out of doors, it will push out shoots
from the base and in time form an effective specimen.
Young plants suitable for your window can be purchased
at a comparatively cheap rate.

THE GREENHOUSE.

GESNERAS (Lyndhurst). — As your Gesneras are good,
sturdy plants and only 2 inches or 3 inches high, we do
not consider that there would be any harm in dividing
them now and repotting singly into 4{-inch pots. Of
course, it is most essential that the roots should be dis-
• turbed as little as possible, and the plants kept rather
closer than usual and well shaded till the roots take
possession of the new soil. Some Gesneras are much more
vigorous than others, and need increased root room ;
but, generally speaking, 6-inch pots should be large enough
to allow three plants to give of their best. The very
strongest may, if you wish, be put into larger pots ; but
as you seem inclined to divide, we should not, as above
stated, dissuade you from doing so. In the culture of
Gesneras, as in many of their allies, it should be borne
in mind that they are greatly benefited by a free use of
vegetable matter in the compost, and this, if possible,
should be in the form of good, well-decayed leaf-mould.
A mixture of two parts loam to one part leaf-mould and
a liberal sprinkling of silver sand is very suitable for this
class of plants.

ROSE GARDEN.

RAMBLERS FOR BUDDING (J. B.).— The lateral
shoots would do very well, and, if strong, would make no
difference to the future growth of the budded plants, but we
should prefer a nice, strong, young growth. There are
better white ramblers now than White Dorothy, for it
is not pure white. Try Schnceball or Lady Blanche.

ROSES WITH GREEN CENTRES {UehiKhi,r,ili).~V\K
hard, green centres are usually ri:gardt'd as the effect of
a sutlUen cheek to growtli just whi'n ti.e huds arc forming.
No preventive measures, bi-yond planting where the Ijushes
are screened from north and east winds, arc known. It
is impossible to name Roses from malformed specimens
such as these.

ROSES FOR BIG BUSHES IN ABERDEENSHIRE
(D. D. Z).).— You would Hud tile following excfllent for
your purpose : J. B. Clark, Hugh Dickson. .Mrs. Stewart
Clark, Zepherin Drouhin, Dr. O'Donel Browne. Johanna
Sebus, Ueine Marie Henriette, M. Desir, Conrad F.
Meyer, Nova Zembla, Sarah Bernhardt, Cheshunt Hybrid.
Juliet, Climbing Lady .\shtown, Maharajah, Ulricli
Brunner, Fran Karl Druschki, Mrs. John Laing, Paul
Neyron and Boule de Neige. All these should be hardy
with you.

FRUIT GARDEN.

SPOTS ON MELONS {Oron). — There is no fuiijius preiseiit
to account for the trouble with the Melons. Have they
been knocked or damaged while youns ? The bitter
flavour is probably due to imperfect ripeniuq.

A PREVALENT DISEASE IN APPLES (.7. C.).— The
.\pples seem to be affected with the brown rot funi^us
Monilia (or Sclerotinia) fructigena. Ttis disease is rather
prevalent this season, and it would be well to spray with
Bordeaux mi.vture, half the strengtii usually used for
spraying Potatoes.

FLIES ON PEAR TREES {E. H, 5.)-— We do not think
tlie insects t-ent, which are species of Psocidete, are likely
tu do much, if any, damage to the trees. They feed on
dead matter, and disliking light are apt to travel in cracks
in the bark. It appears there is much Pear scab on your
trees, and this is destroying the spurs. Cut out all
dead and dying wood, and spray with Bordeaux mixture.

SIDE SHOOTS OF PLUM TREES {In Doubt).— Yes^, in
the case of trees growing in gardens where the space is
more or less restricted, unless a shoot is required to fill up
a gap in the tree, the side shoots should he pinched back.
In the latter case they should be allowed to grow un-
restricted during the summer, pruning tliem back to half
their length at the winter pruning. If tlie standard trees
are growing in an orchard where ample space is provided,
summer pruning is not necessary.

MILDEW ON VINES (J. Broion and A Lincolnshire
Man). — On the first appearance of the white patches of
mildew on the upper surface of the leaves, spray every
part of the stem and leaves with a solution of loz. of
potassium sulphide to three gallons of water. Repeat
this frequently while the Vine is still affected. As a
preventive it is desirable to spray before the mildew
appears, especially if it has been prevalent during the
previous year. To ensure the destruction of the hiber-
nating mycelium during the winter, when the Vine is
resting, the trunk and branches should be thoroughly
washed with a solution of lib. of sulphate of copper
dissolved in twenty-five gallons of water.

NECTARINES SHRIVELLING (^rw;iows).— Please see
next answer to " H. S. O." below re Peaches
dropping. If we were you we would give the old trees
another chance, especially as you have had them under
your care for so short a time. Old trees, even very old
ones, bear grand crops when well looked after, and the
fruit is usually of better flavour and quality than from
younger trees. We would partly lift the roots this autumn
{not merely top-dressing), and then give them a new body
of soil to root into. Let the trees start naturally next
year without any forcing, and in preparing the soil for the
border do not forget to apply some bone-meal, say, three
pints to a good barrow-load of the compost, and a liberal
sprinkling of lime.

PEACHES DROPPING (H. S. 0.).— The cause generally
of Peaches dropping when the size of Hazel Nuts is
imperfect fertilisation of the blossom. If you cut a fruit
open you will find that the stone is diseased. Imperfect
fertilisation may be brought about by many causes, as
follows : Tlie want of vigour and strength in the trees, and
consequently in the flowers ; the scarcity of pollen in the
latter; dull, cold weather, and a damp, close atmosphere
while the trees are in bloom. The best way of preventing
this in future is to add new turfy soil to the roots of the
trees in autumn, to water the trees several times in the
course of the winter and autumn, and to take special care
that the trees have abundance of air when they are in
bloom, both day and night, while the weather is favour-
able. The flowers should also be artificially fertilised
on dry, warm days by the aid of a rabbit's tail, drawing
it gently over the pollen on the stamens of the flowers
and applying to the stigma or centre tiny column of the
flower. This is a simple and small matter, but it needs
care and diligence in carrying it out.

MILDEW ON VINES (W. B.).~lt may be tliat the Vine
border and the general system of culture of the Vine in
the past is at fault, and therefore, in a measure, the cause
of the attack of mildew. For, without good and proper
soil for the roots to flourish in, and intelligent culture in
the way of generous watering, careful ventilation and the
provision of a healthy atmosphere for the Vines to grow
in, they soon become a prey to this and other diseases by
reason of the weak and poor gro^vth they make. How-
ever, if this is so, the remedy cannot be applied in the case
of the border until autumn, but the careful management
of the Vine in other ways as suggested above should be
seen to at once. The best thing you can do now is to apply
the same remedy as you applied before. The sulphur
should be applied to the hot-water pipes in the evening

of a damp, calm day, and repeated the secoiul evening
if the first application is not effective. Be careful to
apply front air sparingly in cold weather, because cold
draughts are often the cause of an attack of mildew. The
Grapes on the Vine you speak of (as per sample sent) are
evidently badly affected. We should cut the worst of
them out, and give the others a better chance of setting
and finishing off.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

SEAKALE (Miss B. C.).— You can do no good by tians-
planting your Seakalo now. Leave it until the winter
time, then dig it up, keep the stronger crowns for forcing,
and cut up the rest of the fleshy roots into sections i inches
to 5 inches long, taking care to keep the upper parts in
the same direction for convenience of planting. Plant
the root sections in good deep soil which has been well
worked and afterwards made fairly firm. As a rule the
pieces should be placed in rows 2 feet apart, and 1^ feet
apart in the rows. One year should suffice to form crowns
large enough for forcing. It is of no use, however, planting
Seakale in poor soil, as it never develops satisfactorily.

MISCELLANEOUS.

SAMPLE OF SOIL {G. W. ft.).— We f jund nothing amiss
with the soil, and could see nothing of the black substance
of which you speak. It is quite likely to be a jelly-like
growtli which dries up and practically disappears when
dry ; but perhaps you couUi send us a little of the substance
itself.

FLIES FOR IDENTIFICATION (R. S. C.).— The ■flies
sent are allied to iMerodon equestris, but do not belong
to that species. They are hover flies, called Eristalis tenax
and E. arbustorum, and the larvae of the former are the
well-known rat-tailed maggots that live in the fllth at
the bottom of the gutters, sewers and dirty ditches.
IMerodon varies greatly in colour, but is usually foxy brown
and very hairy. The shrill notes caused by its flight
and its darting habit make it readily distinguishable
when on the wing.

DESTROYING THE MOLE CRICKET (G. T.).—
Probably the best method of destroying mole crickets
is to inject carbon bisulphide into the soil in which they
liv^, at the rate of about half an ounce to the square yard.
Phospho Nicotyl has been found useful for destroying
these Insects in Jersey and Guernsey. Traps in the
form of tubes of earthenware or wood, baited with
some substance the pest likes and allowing entrance
but not exit, may be buried in the soil, many of the pests
being trapped like that and destroyed by dropping them
into a pail containing parafiSn.

WASH FOR CONIFERS (F. R. D.).~A wash which has
been found successful for the treatment of Spruce trees
affected by the Pine-apple gall is made by mixing six pints
of paraffin, 1Mb. of soft soap and thirty-six gallons of water
together, and using it in the form of a spray. It is essential
that the soft soap and paraffin should be thoroughly mixed,
and to ensure this it is advisable to dissolve the soft soap
in one gallon of boiling water. While this is warm, add the
paraffin and keep the mixture well stirred until a creamy
liquid is formed ; pour into the remaining water, mix well,
and use either through a self-mixing spraying- machine or
a syringe. In the case of the latter, put a syringeful back
into the vessel now and then in order to keep the wash well
agitated, so that there is no possibility of the paraffin
separating from the soft soap. From the end of April to
the end of June is the most eflacacious period for the use of
the wash, for it is at that time the insects are most active.
It is a good plan to use the wash about once every ten or
fourteen days on badly-affected trees.

NAMES OF PLANTS. — Rustic. — Rose Thalia.

A. E. T. — 1, Comtesse F. Hamilton ; 2, Comtesse de

Breteuil; 3, M Desir. C. F. — Commander Jules

Gravereaux., N- M. Roxby. — We believe the white is

Bennett's Seedling, and the pink an old variety of Rosa

gallica or one of the very old Damask Roses. J. B.,

Clapham Common.— Centranthus ruber alba G. B. B. —

Sisyrinchium angustifolium. Mrs. H. E. S. U. — Cyno-

glossum Wallichii. Mrs. F. H. Curtis. — Escallonia

punctata. Mrs. F. A. H. — White Poplar (Populus

albus). K. D., Scalby. — Pittosporum tenuifolium.

B. N., Cheshire. — Abutilon vitifolium (shrub), Cynoglossum
furcatura (perennial). G. G. — Gllia macrantha.

C. F, — 1, Lilium pyrenaicum ; 2, Gesnera cardiualis.

THE EDITOR'S TABLE.

Sweet Peas from Cambridgeshire. — Mr. H. W.

Churchinaii, Sawston, lambs, sends flowers of two
seedling Sweet Peas. The variety Alfred Challis
is a pale silvery grey flower with pale blue veinings,
while Connie Ellis Improved is a dark variety, the
standard being bluish maroon and the wings almost
purple. Mr. Churchman writes : " I am sending
you just a few of my Sweet Peas as growing for
seed on poor soil. The marbled one is Alfred
Challis, tlie dark one Connie Ellis Improved. I
think these two good ones. The dark one requires
shading lightly during the hottest sim,"

■*' ^fey-

GARDEN. I

No. 2172. Vol. LXXVII.

July 5. 1913.

CONTBNTS.

WOTES OF 'IHK \\'Kt:K
CORRESPONDENCK

I'm ni ng Scot <■ h
Roses

Dflphiniiim Queen
Mary

l-'orcft -1110-1101

i'orgft-me-not and
Litli08pcr mum
prostratuni. .

Express rockery
planting

l-'ortbcoming event*..
I'l.owKK Garden

■J' he Lons- spurred
t'olunibineand its
cultivation. .

Sweet Pea notes . .

I'hc Carnation: Its
history and culti-
vation

i'he Japanese Iris. .

01 kFikstPrize liOCK
(."AKHKN

Climbing Plants on

KlTOHEN (i ARDBN

Walls

335
335

335
335

335
335

33fi
337

Trees and SHRuns
The Wistarias and
how to prow them 33it

KosE Garden

.Some new and little-
know^l llambi er

Koses 340

Rose Beautfi de Lyon 340
liosH sinica
Anemone . . . . 340

Gardening for Beginners
How and w)ien to

Lud Roses .. .. 341
LayerinK Thyme .. 341

(iARDENING OF THE WEEK

Kor Soutliern gar-
dens 34 2

For Northern ;:ar-
dens 342

The Upkeep of Lawns 343

Kitchen Garden

When and how to

' srow Endive . , 34:!

I

I answers TO CORRK-

I SPONPENTS .. . . 343

Societies . . ... . . 314

IliliUSTRATIONS.

'J'hi- flue spi'cinien uf l'u\'a rhilrnsis now floweriuu'

in the Cambridge Botanic Garden-^ 334

Miniature waterfalls in a rock iiarden 336

A \iew in onr first prize rock garden 337

Auotlier view in our fir«t prize rock garden . . . . 338
riiinbiug plants on a kitchen garden wall . . Swpplcment

A bt^utiful plant of Wistaria multijuga 339

Rosa sinica Anemone 340

How and when to bud Roses 341

EDITORIAL NOTIGBS.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
hnt he rvill not be responsible for their safe reUirn. All
reasonable care, however, unll be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he toill endeavour to return non-accepted
contribidions .

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
nsks thai the price required for reproduction he plainly siaied
It muft be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright mil be treated with.

The Editor mil not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions u'kich he may not he able to iise^ and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden mil alone
he recognised as acc^pUinci'

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Offices : 20. Tavistock Street, Covetit Oarden. W.V.

Cutting Dead Blooms OW Roses.~\Ve would
rt'iniiui readers that <ill blooms as soeii as they have
faded, or most of the petals have dropped, should
he cut off the bushes. We prefer to cut down
close to the first plump wood-bud. This assists
in the formation of new shoots, on which we rely
for our autimin flowers. If the soil can be given
a good soakinp with water and subsequently
mulched with some short manure, the bushes
will be assisted materially.

MorellO Cherries. — The fruit is borne on the
previous season's wood much in the same way
as the Peach, and, like it, a sufficient supply of
the current year's shoots should be laid in for
supplying the crop next season. Onlv as much
of the young wood should be retained as can be
thoroughly ripened without imduly shading the
current crop and foliage borne on the old wood.
Superfluous shoots should be cut away with a
\'ery sharp knife, or gumming ma}' ensue.

Endowment for Education in Gardening.—

The outgouig Master cjf the Gardeners' Company
is proposing, as an additional proof of his great
regard for the Guild and for the interests of garden-
ing, to offer a substantial sum to the President of
the Board of Agriculture as an endowment for the
cause of technical education in gardening. Certain
conditions will be attached, the chief of which will
Vie that the name of the Worshipful Company of
Gardeners should be for ever associated with the
gift.

Early Forced Figs. — Fig trees are accommo-
dating, in that they produce more than one crop
in the course of the year. At this season early
forced Figs are swelling their second crop, and
due attention must be paid to watering and feeding.
If in pots, they will need looking over two or three
times a day, and those planted out will probably
need a good soaking once a week. Very little
fire-heat is necessary now, but damping should
be curtailed somewhat towards the evening.

Gooseberry Branches Diseased. — .^t a recent

meeting of the scientific committee of the Royal
Horticulturai Society several specimens of Goose-
berry branches were shown. They had died
suddenly after starting into growth. This trouble
with Gooseberries is usually due to the attack
of the fungus Botryosph;eria ribesii. It is best
to remove and bum the affected branches as soon
as they are discovered, not allowing them to remain
until the autumn. The branches should be cut
away close to their origin, as the fungus fruits
near to the base of the .iffected shoots.

Roses in the City of London. — It was with
considerable interest that we visited the first
exhibition held by the newly-formed City of London
Rose Society in the Cannon Street Hotel on the
26th ult. Knowing as we do the enthusiasm for
Roses that exists among City workers, we expected
to see a good show, but were not prepared for I

the magniliceut display that Mr. Prothero and hn
committee had got together. The blooms were
in many cases superb, and they were there in tlieir
thousands, well staged and well arranged. The
societ>-, which thus creates friendly rivalr\' among
City workers, deserves every encouragement,
.^n abridged report of the show, which was opened
by the Lord Mayor, who is president of the society,
will be foiuid on another page.

Stalling Dahlias. --If not already staked and
tied Dahlias should be attended to at once.
Those intended for exhibition should have the
central growth pinched out, selecting four shoots
from the resulting breaks, and tying each to a
stake, sloping them ra an outward direction so as
to admit as much light and air as possible to the
centre of the plants. At present only sufficient
water need be given to prevent the plants from
flagging, but when coming into flower they should
not be stinted in this respect. Traps must be
set for earwigs, looking over them daily so as to
rid the plants of these pests as quickly as possible

An Interesting Flowering Shrub.— Sophora

vieiitolia is a showy and interesting Chinese shrub
which blossoms freely during the latter part of
May or early June. In the open ground it grows
quite 6 feet high, while against a wall that height
is doubled. The dainty green leaves are made up
of numerous tiny leaflets, and from the axils of the
leaves the short racemes of white, violet-tinged
flowers appear. It is perfectly hardy and thrives
in loamy soil, single plants growing in the open
assuming a diameter of 8 feet or'more. Seeds are
produced freely and form a certain means of increase,
although cuttings may also be rooted. It is oni
of those plants which dislike root disturbance.

Help for Aged and Infirm Gardeners.— On

another p.ige we publish particulars of the annual
festival dinner in connection with the Gardeners'
Royal Benevolent Institution, and we give promi-
nence t.) it here because of the excellent work
that it has done and is still doing. This charity,
which has been founded over seventy years,
provides pensions for aged or infirm gardeners,
or the widows of gardeners, and we know that it
is run on the most economical lines and that every
penny subscribed goes to the relief of those who.
through no fault of their own, Iftive fallen on evil
days. Our British gardens art" admi'''^dly the
finest in the world, and now that they are .at the
height of their summer beauty and we are enjoying
the beautiful flowers and luscious fruits that they
produce, we urgently appeal to our readers to spare
a little thought and monev to those who have
helped, directly or indirectly, to make our gardens
what they are. \ sovereign to these poor old
people is a little forttme — so much to them and so
little to many of our readers. Who will help ?
The secretary is Mr. O. Ingram, 03, Victoria Street,
Westminster, and all subscriptions should be
sent to him. We shall be glad to learn that our
appeal to readers has not been in vain.

334

THE GARDEN.

[July 5, iqi:.

CORRESPON DENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible lor the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Pruning Scotch Roses. — This is the best time
to prune large, thickly-furnished bushes of these
early and sweet Roses. The pruning consists in
cutting out the oldest of the shoots, so that younger
lines, which are the more fioriferous, may have
ample space during the rest of the season. Young
plants may be left till autumn and then slightly
pruned in a similar manner ; but neither young
nor old plants should be severely thinned, otherwise
they will become straggly, ^nd to enable
them to regain their former stiffness a
number offgrowths have to be cut back.
By the way, how badly Banksia Roses
have done ! Where we had long trails
by the dozen last year, this year there
have not been a dozen blooms in all. —
R. P. Brotherston.

Puya chilensis Flowering at Cam-
bridge.— This interesting plant of the
Pineapple family, concerning which a
note was published in these columns
on March r, page 102, when mention
was made of it coming into bloom, is
now flowering and bearing a huge spike
about six feet high, with an inflorescence

2 feet 5 inches by i foot 2 inches
wide, in the form of a dense, rhomboid
panicle, with racemose branches, which
are densely crowded with flowers of a
pale greenish yellow. During the whole
time, the spike has grown on an average

3 inches per week until it reached the
above height, after which it commenced
to open its flowers. The plant, as men-
tioned in a previous issue, is an excep-
tionally fine specimen, the complete plant
now measuring g feet 7 inches in height
and 8 feet 2 inches in width. The side
growths are developing into fine rosettes,
and will soon form a huge mass, replacing
the main crown, which will undoubtedly
die when the flower is gone. It is a
native of the Northern Provinces of
Chili, where the stem is used for corks
and bungs, and the hard hooks on the
leaves are used by the Indians for fish-
hooks, being well adapted for that pur-
pose. An excellent life-size painting of
this plant may be seen in the North
Gallery in the Royal Gardens, Kew. —
F. G. Preston.

Scent in Flowers. — May I gently
enquire the wherefore of your charming
correspondent " .-Vnne Amateur's "
aspersion upon American garden-
ing taste as set forth in these words
in her vivacious and otherwise
contribution to your columns on
flowers, page 275, issue May 31 : " The American
craze for mere size and conspicuous colours '* ?
Will "Anne Amateru'" be kind enough to
give chapter and verse for this accusation ?
It may be that when her words met my eye
I was in an over-sensitive state of mind, for
I recall the fact that at that very moment I was
engaged in comparing the delicious odour of one
of the commoner garden Pinks with that of
Dianthus hybridus Dr. Mules. Unlike Lamb and
the modem florist, I own to the possession of a
nose — and an ear. too, " Anne .Amateur "

may think ! — Louisa Ki;>ig. Orchard House, Alma,
Michigan.

A Beautiful Floral Combination. — In the

course of some changes ni the garden last autumn,
I had the idea to plant that exquisite Rose Jersey
Beauty in association with Spanish Irises of a good
strain which I had seen at Mr. Bull's at Ramsgate
the previous June. The result is a really charmuig
bed. The Rose, as many of your readers will
know, is of pronotmced rambling habit and of
vigorous growth. The flowers are huge singles
of a creamy hue. The Irises, spearing up between
the shoots of the Roses, form some delicious blends
of colour. Inasmuch as the site of this bed had

Ireland, who, alas ! has, with many other good
pioneers, now passed away. If any reader of this
note can inform me where this rare plant is to he
obtained, I shall be very grateful. I always
impress on those to whom I give this double white
the imperative necessity of cutting down close to
the ground, say, ij inches, all the blooming stems
when they cease to be decorative ; this ensures a
good growth of vigorous young shoots, which, when
about two inches long, can be planted by digging
up and separating the rootstock with them attached,
and thereby a large increase effected. Another
increase is also possible in planting a portion —
the lower for choice — of these blooming
stems when cut off ; for I saw last
week, in the excellent garden of a
relative of mine, fine young plants in
bloom which last summer were the

cuttings
(Captain
Ireland.

I refer to. — J. Hill Poe
D.L.), Riverston, Nenngh,

THIS FINE SPECIMEN OF PUYA CHILENSIS IS NOW '
FLOWERING IN THE CAMBRIDGE BOTANIC GARDENS. £

delight fiil
scent in

been nothing but a rough chalk bank covered this, the
with coarse, tussocky turf, 1 may perhaps be ' is,
pardoned when I say that I view the transforma-
tion with pride. I may add, for what it is worth,
that the plan is not only very beautiful, but quite
inexpensive. — W. P. W.

The Double Sweet Rockets. — To supplement

the paragraph in The G.\rden of June 21, page 309,
I wish to draw attention to the fact that there are
two different whites, one much more free than the
other, and much more loose in the habit of the
flowering stems. There is also a rich purple
variety, which I once possessed, having got a small
plant from a celebrated gardener in the North of

A GARDEN.

Not alone to me and mine

Raptures in my garden spring.

Where the robes of Summer shine.
Rich from her embroidering,

.And her gentle movement frees

Fragrance to invest the breeze.

Not on Iniman sense alone

From the garden flows delight :

Birds their gladness clearly own ;
Chant the bees in buoyant flight ;

Butterflies make of their dance

Pleasure's perfect utterance.

Yet in yielding thus, to these

Visitants of airy wing,
Bliss that thrills to ecstasies,

Joy that stirs to revelling,
Wins my garden all their glee
For an added charm to me.

James Cartwright.

Pink Gloriosa. — I am entirely in
agreement with the writer nf the
"Note of the Week" in the issue
for June 21 regarding the beauty
of this Pink. Unlike your
correspondent " C. A. G.," I have,
however, had no cause to complain
of its hardiness during the two
winters it has been in my garden.
It (the garden) is situated to the
South -West of London, and faces
-outh-east. The soil is of a stiff,
adhesive nature, and, of course, cold
during the winter ; but, despite
Pink Gloriosa has done well. There

however, I find,

one drawback to its
successful culture, at least in ray garden,
and that is the sparrows are fonder fof the
leaves of that variety than of any other
Pink or border Carnation. Whether this is
the general experience I cannot say. Of course,
by a judicious use of black thread these cheeky
little birds may be kept off ; but they first
found out the tastiness of the leaves when
I was confined indoors for a few days, and on
going out in the garden the damage was at
once app.arent, when I immediately took steps to
prevent it. — H. P.

July 5, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

335

Delphinium Queen Mary. — When in Messrs.
Bunyard's nurseries at Maidstone recently, I was
strucli with a new perennial Lariispur named
Queen Mary. It is a beautiful shade of peacock
blue, with a clear, creamy eye. I admired particu-
larly the even disposition of the flowers on the
stem, the whole forming a splendid Hyacinth-like
truss, — W. P.

Forget-me-not. — There is a note about this
(page 311), but I do not understand what is meant
by " common." The true species is Myosotis
palustris. Here we have masses of M. sylvatica
growing in grass, which are very pretty, and am(jng
them the white variety is not at all unusual. —
R. P. Brotherston, Prestonkirk, N.B.

Forget-me-not and Lithospermum prostratum.

M>usutis sylvatica, the couuuun l-orget-me-not,
is, as one of your correspondents writes on page 311,
issue June 21, very pretty in combination with
Woodruff and other white flowers, but it is sur-
passed by the variety dissitiflora, which is dwarfer
and has much larger flowers. This in a mild spring
comes into bloom in March, and though liable
to be blackened at that time by frost, as it was
this year, it soon recovers and flowers again. It
is still in bloom (June 22). The shelter of shrubs
is a great help to M. dissitiflora. Lithospermum
prostratum in its natiVe home in the Lower Pyrenees,
where it goes by the name of the Frontier Flower,
is quite the equal of Gentiana acaulis in colour.
The flowers there are larger than the annual
blue Lobelia, and have the two advantages over the
Gentian in continuing to open all day in cloud
or sunshine and in blooming for several months
instead of weeks. Unfortunately, it does not
succeed well with me, though grown with peat
moss, granite sand and leaf-mould, our natural
soil — limestone — being poison to it. — J. H.
Thomas.

Express Rockery Planting. — As one who has
been engaged during the past season in making
rockeries, I was deeply interested in the illustration
of Mr. Bilney's new rockery on page 313 of June 21
issue. Although it is not mentioned in the notes,
I think I can safely say that the two most important
factors in Mr. Bilney's success were thorough prepa-
ration of the soil and the planting of several speci-
mens of each kind. In rockery-making it is a
common mistake to pay a great deal of attention
to, and spend most of the money available on,
the stones, with the result that plants are skimped.
I am often tempted to think, after seeing some
specimens of rockwork, that the best way of going
to work is to put in the plants before a single stone
is laid. It sounds ridiculous, but at least it would
prevent many such miserable, over-starved examples
as we now see. From half-a-dozen to a dozen
plants set in a colony soon spread out into a glorious
clump.— W. P. W.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

July 8. — Flower Shows at Wolverhampton
(three days). Royal Scottish Arboricultural at
Paisley (four days), and Baltic Rose and Sweet
Pea Society at Merchants' Hall, E.G.

July 9. — Flower Shows at Saltaire, Bath (two
days), Beckenham. Elstree, Dover and Formby.
East Anglian Horticultural Club Meeting.

July 10. — Flower Shows at Newmarket, Malvern.
Potter's Bar, Finchley, Snaith, Maidenhead and
.\ylesbury. West of Scotland Rosarians' Society
at Helensburgh.

July II. — Manchester Rose and Summer Show.

July 12. — -Flower Shows at Wood Green, Trow-
bridge and Steeton.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

THE LONG-SPURRED COLUMBINE

AND ITS CULTIVATION.

A MONG the hardy border flowers which
/% have engrossed the careful attention

/ % of several of our leading growers dur-

/~^^ ing the past few years, the .Aquilegia
^ *■ takes a prominent place and is

deservedly becoming popular, and,
together with the Antirrhinum, will for many
years to come reign as one of the queens of the
hardy flower border. To those unacquainted
with the vast progress made by the hybridisers
during recent years in converting the old-fashioned
Columbine, with its compact flowers of sombre
colour and little variety, into the gorgeous varie-
ties known as the Long-spurred Aquilegia, the
magnificent collections of blossoms shown by several
firms of repute at the recent spring shows came
as a startling revelation. Some of the blossoms
were regal in form and colour, and no praise can
be too high for this elegant genus of plants.

They are all hardy perennials, and are most
accommodating, growing equally well in the
rockerj' as in the hardy flower border. As the
result of careftd selection and hybridising, the
Long-spurred Aquilegia, or Columbine, has been
raised to a very high level of perfection, and con-
tains some charming colours in almost every con-
ceivable variety. Some magnificent named
sorts are on the market ; but, except for a
definite purpose, such as grouping for colour,
it is not absolutely necessary to grow them for
the ordinary border display. Plants raised from
seed, which can be obtained from several leading
firms who have specialised in this genus of plants,
will supply the commoner need, besides adding
interest to the grower who may be fortunate
enough to raise a finer variety than yet exists.
.At any rate, the various and delicately-tinted
flowers amply repay the necessary care required
in raising them.

Cultivation. — Seed shoidd be sown very thinly
in fine sandy soil in a cool house or frame in spring,
and when large enough the seedlings should be
pricked off on to a prepared border of good soil
containing a large percentage of sand. In the
early autumn these plants can be transplanted to
their permanent quarters ; and this process is often
the cause of the failure of some of the plants to
weather the winter. One of the complaints against
the Long-spurred Aquilegia is that it will not stand
our winter. As above stated, the Aquilegia is
a hardy perennial, and the prime causes of the loss
of plants are lack of drainage and badly-prepared
beds. The seedlings have had liberal treatment,
bordering perhaps on the tender side, during the
pleasant warmth of summer, and often they are
transpla.nted into a sour, water-logged border
and left to battle against the adverse conditions
of an inclement winter. Little wonder that the
majority of the plants succumb ! Provide well
dug and drained permanent quarters for your
plants, transplant them from the bed without
unduly injuring the root ball, give them the neces-
sary care that they may be firmly established
before the winter sets in, keep the surface soil
friable and free from weeds, and your losses will
be nil, or nearly so. In the following May and
June the beds will repay this attention with
abundant blossoms. After flowering, the plants
should be pruned of their dead flower-stalks, the
soil well hoed, and new growth will be made, as

the plants improve yearly and need not be lifted
for many years.

One of the most magnificent displays of blossoms
the writer has seen this spring was a border of
■Aquilcgias five years old, which had received
treatment as here described. Aquilegias grown
in clumps are most effective, and can be used
advantageously for colour effects with named
varieties, and, given the right surroundings, are
unsurpassed in elegance and beauty. Recently
the writer saw an arrangement of Aquilegias
which might well be adopted by lovers of these
plants. Seen under the rays of a golden setting
sun, the sight almost baffled description. Two
varieties, cserulea hybrida and superba, were
massed in opposite beds 20 feet by 6 feet and
flanking a sunken lawn. The first-named variety is
a graceful form, bearing large flowers, the centre
clear yellow, with spurs and sepals blue. The
latter — superba — is a specially good long-spurred
variety, with centre petals bright yellow, and spurs
and sepals bright orange red. Some 20 feet of
grass, in the centre of which was a small, circular
bed of Viola White Purity, separated two similar
beds, also filled with Aquilegias, in the one Skinneri,
scarlet, tipped with yellow, and in the other a
long-spurred white one which the gardener had
raised himself. The contrast between the brilliance
of superba and the elegance of the white variety,
also the vivid colouring of Skinneri and the alluring
delicacy of the pale blue of csenilea hybrida, had
to be seen to be fully appreciated. In the same
garden were beds of seedlings just flowering, and
some excellent forms were to be seen ; six
varieties stood out as quite distinct.

The rockery, though small, also emphasised the
usefulness of the Aquilegia for rockwork, as some
fine clumps, three years old, were carrying masses
of beautiful blossoms, all, I was assured, the
choicest of former years' seedlings. Truly, then,
does the Long-spurred Aquilegia vie with the
Snapdragon in growing popuharity, and should
be more generally grown on accoimt of its
usefulness in the rockery and the border, and also
for the fact that the flowers will last in water
several days when cut. S. W.

SWEET PEA NOTES.

The Trials. — If gioups of trials of scores of
varieties are of real value to the growers of the world,
the benefits this year ought to be twice as valuable
as they were last year, since the National Trials
are growing on the strong soil at Burbage in Leices-
tershire, and the International Trials at Reading,
where the soil is decidedly on the light side. If
the varieties were duplicated, which, I am led
to believe, is not the case, some curious differences
in behaviour would be apparent, for there is no
question that they vary widely with the ground
and to some degree with the climate in which they
are growing. In a season or two, perhaps, we
shall see these two fancied rivals in association,
with sweetness in the camp if not in the perfume
of many of the modern flowers. There is only
room for one authority on Sweet Peas in this
country, and the court should be the National
Sweet Pea Society now, as it has been for a dozen
vears or more, but it must proceed on the best and
cleanest lines.

The Shows. — The fights have started in many
parts of the country, and some splendid flowers
have been staged ; but the giants will not join
issue for a further fortnight, when they will gather
at Vincent Square and later at Carlisle. I am

336

THE GARDEN.

[July 5, 1913.

wishful that some of the younger enthusiasts
should step in to show the old stagers that the
world is not wholly theirs ; but the new-comers
will have to gird up their loins and stage quality.
Speaking of quality reminds me that it will not
be out of place to urge the claims of the real Sweet
Pea, and to suggest that the coarse monstrosities
should go to the wall. Novices are warned that
flowers cut twenty-four hours before they are
required, and placed instantly in water in a cool
cellar where the temperature is quite steady, will
serve them better than those cut an hour or so
before the crucial moment ; and, further, that
when they are packing, it is
necessary that the blooms
shall be perfectly dry.

Watering and Feeding. —

.Although Sweet Peas are good
trenchermen, it is not simply
possible but exceedingly easy
to over-feed them. As lar as
watermg is concerned, no ex-
perienced grower will ever do
It until he is obliged ; but in
the case of feeding there is
a decided tendency towards
over-generosity. Loosening of
(he surface soil and mulching
are persisted in to reduce the
uesessity for the applications
of water, and wisely so ; but
the same judgment and dis-
cretion ought to be given to
the use of liquid manures.
When special feeding goes so
far that the plants become
gross, the flowers are too
widely separated on the stalk,
and usually they become large
at the expense of substance,
with the result that they
have a flabby aspect. Correct
feeding is difficult. It is an
art which cannot be too closely
and too intelligently studied.
It will be ascertained quickly
that the treatment which
suits one variety will not suit
another, and that following
identical rules in different soils
and localities will by no means
bring about identical results.
In any event, it is necessary
to adhere strictly to the rule
never to apply liquid manure
of any kind when the soil is
dry, and also to consider
the wisdom of affording as
varied a diet as circumstances
and conditions permit.

Staging Blooms.— The im-
portance of arranging the
colours carefully cannot be

over-estimated. It is very clear from the exhibits
which one sees at many shows that some cultivators
take the view that fine blooms are all that is required.
When the competition is poor, this principle may,
and usually does, work out all right ; but when the
rivalry is keen, skilful arrangement tells another
story. When the judgmg is done on what may be
termed general impressions, the group in which
the varieties are so disposed that each aids the other
is bound to come out on the top ; while, when
pointing has to be done, marks will be given without
hesitation to the artistically - arranged e.xhibit

which the carelessly-arranged set could never hope
to secure. The tyro who does not clearly see the
force of this ought to arrange and rearrange a
few sets of twelve until he fully grasps how much
the judicious association of colours adds to the
effect of a set. It will be time well spent, and will
mark the difference between success and failure,
sooner or later. H. J. W.

THE CARNATION: ITS HISTORY
AND CULTIVATION.
Its History. — The fascination of the Carnation
is very great, and so we find people year after year

MINIATURE WATERFALLS IN THE ROCK GARDEN AT LEONARDSLEE.

attempting its cultivation with a success in the
inverse ratio to their enthusiasm. Its very history
fascinates the searcher after flower-lore of the past,
and quite a serious accretion of fabulous material
has gathered round its name. In this respect it
may be called the King Arthur of the vegetable
kingdom. Similarity of designation to other
plants has been responsible for a good deal of con-
trovertible assertion of this kind ; but there is
also a more regrettable readiness to give to it names
of other plants as synonyms to which it has no
right whatever. The obscurity which envelops

nearly all plant history up to the middle of the
sixteenth century veils that of the Carnation in
an impenetrable gloom, and we do not know when
it first foimd a place in English gardens. Con-
tinental authorities, on the other hand, can trace
it back centuries earlier, and they have also to
their credit cultural treatises long in advance of
any of ours. Liebault, in the sixteenth century,
shows that two distinct sections were cultivated
in France. To Clusius we are indebted for the
knowledge that a wonderful type of apricot-
coloured Carnations was common in Silesia.
Monographs appeared in France in the seven-
teenth century — " Le Jar-
dinage des CEillets " in 1647
— which fully demonstrates
the great hold the flower had
on the florists of that country.
Nothing of the kind appeared
ill England till a century and
a-half later, and it is a re-
markable fact that nearly all
our writers — Gerard, Parkin-
son, Rea, Laurence, Maddock,
Hogg — refer to the mtroduc-
tion of Continental types
which were seized upon by
English cultivators. We know
that our present border Carna-
tions are derived largely from
a German strain imported by
the late Mr. Martin Smith,
the great value of his labours
being the production of a
stronger plant with consider-
ably more vigour than the
devitalised English type which
it displaced.

Its Cultivation. — Would-
be cultivators, in spite of all
that has been said to the
contrary, must recognise in
the Carnation a difficult plant
to manage. Treated as a
hardy plant, which un-
doubtedly it is, it exhibits
remarkable peculiarities. One
year we find it thriving like
the grass of the field, and the
next dying by dozens, and
producing insufficient stock
to keep up a succession for
the next. Varieties exhibit
these failings more or less
intensely, some not at all ;
and the only way many of us
can maintam a healthy stock
is to cultivate a portion
under glass and propagate
from that. Understand, it
is not because the varieties
are not hardy, for the plants
from inside layers planted in
the autunm will be fomid to winter equally as well
as, or better than, those from layers from the open,
but they do not continue healthy if grown con-
tinuously in the open. Another way to maintain a
healthy stock is to introduce layers from a different
part of the country, and a warmer one if possible.
There is abundant recompense for the labour
involved in cultivating a portion of the plants imder
glass, in the fine blooms they produce long in
advance of those from the same varieties out of doors.
I have for some time been cutting beautiful blooms
from border Carnations m 6-uich pots, but to have

July 5. 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

337

extra strong plants it is to be preferred that two
or three should be potted up in 7-inch and 8-iiich
pots. It is usual for these plants to yield a second
crop of bloom from the strongest of the " grass " —
the voung shoots which grow from the base of each
plant. Hence it is generally late before pot-grown
plants can be layered, but to make up for that the
layers root in less time than those on border-
grown plants. Cuttings from the stems strike with
facility in autumn in bottom-heat, and the plants
from these flower a little later than the others.
They display a different habit of growth, and, as I
think, produce a better type of fjower.

The Best Manure. — Apart from the tendency of
some varieties to " wear out," as it is called, plants
during the summer months not infrequently suffer
from an insufficiency of-nourishment. Carnations, it
is true, dislike a highly-manured soil, but they
have no dislike to manure provided it is presented
in the form of a surface-dressing. Some folks
give them a mulch, but a mulch in
early summer is not enough, and
repeated applications of soot, super-
phosphate or one of the special
Carnation manures are in many
soils essential to the health of the
plants. Autumn planting is, as a
rule, better than spring planting ;
but where it is incumbent that the
latter must be the practice, then it
should not be delayed till spring
has given place to summer. Once
into February and the soil in
proper condition, Carnations succeed
better planted then than if delayed
till ,^pril or May.

Layering I have always found
to be a much simpler operation
than it is made to appear in
books. In light soils layers root
perfectly without the addition of
anything to further the operation,
and where it is considered im-
portant to apply a compost, it
should be seen to that it is placed
where the roots will get into it.
For it is usual to see it placed
above the part from which the roots
proceed, and therefore of no use.
When the shoots to be layered
are too far up the stem to be
brought to the soil-level, the plant
should be loosened from its stakes A VIEW

and brought down so that the layers
are close to the soil. To keep shoots from snapping
off they should be twisted round, when none will
be broken. On taking the rooted layer, cut the
part which united it to the parent plant close to
the stem of the layer, and roots will be produced
from the cut portion. When an inch or 2 inches are
left of the old stem, it is not only unsightly, but may
damage the young plant. R. P. Brotherston.

OUR FIRST PRIZE ROCK
GARDEN.

THE rock and alpine garden at Leonardslee
affords much room and scope for plea-
sure and study, as a good number of
rare and half-hardy plants are grown,
many of botanical mterest, my em-
ployer being especially keen and en-
thusiastic on all rare plants. We are year by year
gradually making the garden anew on the moraine
principle, using very little soil. The ingredients used
were eight parts sandstone, crushed from 3 inches
or 4 inches to as small as sand, one part loam, one
part leaf-soil, one part granite grit and one part
peat ; and after three years we are convinced that
the plants are making splendid sturdy growth,
and are. therefore, more likely to stand the vagaries
of the weather than when sr. mnch soft sappy

freely. Among them are C. spectabile, C. Mackayi,
C. Munroi, C. holosericea, C. hieracifolia, C. grandi-
florum, C. macrocephala and C. verbascifolia. We
have several of the New Zealand plants of Fagus
fusca, F. Solanderi and F. cliifordioides, which
are growing nicely on the same quarter. Ranuncu-
lus insignis is growing freely here also, and it
flowered well this spring. On another portion we
have, doing well and flowering freely, Lewisia
Howellii, L. rediviva, L. Cotyledon and L. oppositi-
foha ; these, we consider, are charming plants for
the alpine garden, and they have now stood out
two winters. Then, we have a fairly representative
collection of Campanulas, which include such as
C. amabilis, C. carpatica White Star, C. cenisia,
C. alliariaefolia, C. Allionii, C. garganica hirsuta
alba, C. carpatica, C. morettiana, C. Raineri, C.
raddeana, C. thyrsoides, C. Zoysii, C. Hendersonii,
C. pumila and p. alba, and C. portenschlagiana,
which make a brave show at various seasons.

IN OUR FIRST PRIZE ROCK GARDEN SHOWING THE NATURAL SETTING OF THE STONE.

THE JAPANESE IRIS.

Now that Iris Ijevigata (syn. Kaeempferi) is
flowering so well in many gardens, it may not be
out of place to draw attention to its peculiarities
in regard to culture. It is an Iris that likes to be
kept fairly dry in the winter and wet in the summer.
In Japan it is extensively grown in the Rice fields,
which are heavily manured in the winter when
dry, while during the summer the fields are flooded
by irrigation, when the Irises are about two inches
under water.

growth is made. As far as possible we plant
seedlings, as these send forth a long tap-root,
which goes down deeper to find moisture and gets
in behind the large rocks, where it is safe from all
extremes of weather.

Large masses of Dianthus will be noticed, and
these grow with great freedom and make a good
show during May and June. Among some are
D. alpinus, D. arenarius, D. barbatus, D. caesius,
D. deltoides, D. fimbriatus, D. alpinus albus,
D. fragrans. D. monspessulanus (D. alpestris),
D. neglectus, D. petrasus, D. plumarius, D. p.
annulatus, D. Hookeri and D. sylvestris. We
also grow about fifty species and varieties of
Saxifragas, including all the newer varieties,
which do very well. Then, we have a nice collection
of Cytisuses, which include all the up-to-date
species and hybrids.

A collection of Celmisias, which are planted on
a portion of the alpine garden on the north side,
are doing remarkably well and flowering most

In shrubs we have a good collection of small
Japanese kinds, comprising many Piceas and
Juniperus ; these make a nice show all through
the season and break the flatness here and there.
Others are some of the newer and dwarf varieties
and species of Berberis, and a few good pieces of
B. Thunbergii, which make a good display in the
spring and have very brilliant-coloured foliage in
the autumn. Veronicas also play a part in
breaking up any flatness, such as Veronica Arm-
strongii, V. Hectori, V. lycopodioides, V. sali-
cornioides, V. cupressoides and V. saturioides,
making a nice display when in flower, and they also
look well in winter.

In the illustration showing the waterfalls there
are planted in the crevices a lot of Ramondias,
Saxifraga longifolia, Arabis. .'\ubrietias in variety
.md Omphalodes cappadocia. On the corners of
the larger rocks and on either side are large plants
of Rhododendron ferrugireum, R. f. album, R.
ciliatum, R. racemosum, R. intricatum, Sparaxis

338

THE GARDEN.

[July 5, 1913.

pulcherriraa, plants of Muehlenbeckia, Olcaria
Gunnii, Geranium argenteum, Saxifraga granulata
fl.-pl., Veronica spicata, Yucca grandiflora and
Arctostaphylos in variety. In the bottom, partly
in water and the others in bog, there are nice
plants of Philesia buxifolia, Mitraria coccinea,
Primula sikkimensis, P. bulleyana, P. littoniana,
Ranunculus Lyallii, Primula capitata, P. cock-
burniana, P. kewensis, P. rosea, P. japonica, P.
pulverulenta and Pinguiculas. Cypripedium acaule,
C. Calceolus, C. spectabile, Astilbe simplicifolia,
Trillium grandiflorum, Sarracenia purpurea, Carex
Grayii, C. longifolius, Spiraeas in variety, and bulbs,
such as Narcissus minimus and other dwarf early
species and varieties, also find a happy home there.
There is also a portion devoted to plants which
require lime, and in order to give this we employ
limestone in the place of sandstone, and also use
a portion of gypsum in the soil when mixing it.

CLIMBING PLANTS ON
KITCHEN GARDEN WALLS.

I

[See Special Supplement.]

N a great many gardens the walls of the
vegetable department, which at one time
were extensively used for the cultivation
of fruit trees, have, for some reason or
other, been utilised for some at least of the
many good climbing plants that are now
available for outdoor cultivation. Probably land-
scape alterations of a more or less extensive character
have rendered it desirable to move the kitchen
garden further away from the mansion, when,
instead of puUing down the walls, they have been
left and judiciously clothed with vegetation, thus
affording protection to the climbers and also to

ANOTHER VIEW IN OUR FIRST PRIZE ROCK G.\RDEN, SHOWING THE JUDICIOUS ARRANGEMENT OF
DWARF CONIFERS AND OTHER ALPINE PLANTS.

Several of the Primulas do better in limestone,
as does that beautiful plant Phyteuma comosum,
which is now flowering. Then there are many oi
the Saxifrages, Sedums, Sempervivums, Dianthuses,
Cerastiums, Dryas, Gnaphaliums, Hutchinsias,
Achilleas, Geraniums and Cyclamen ; of this
latter we have several nice colonies, which flower
and do well under some of the low, umbrella-shaped
Piceas.

As many of the alpine plants are short-lived and
all sorts of ravages take place with insects, rodents,
and heat and cold, a special set of frames should be
set apart for propagation, and the necessary assist-
ance should always be at hand for shading, water-
ing and all other work which alpine gardening
brings in its trail. W. A. Cook.

(Head-gardener to Sir Edmund G. Loder, Bart.)

Leonardslee Gardens, Horsham.

the flower borders which they enclose. Another
reason that may have had some influence in putting
the kitchen garden walls to beautiful, if less utili-
tarian, purposes is the tendency nowadays to
cultivate flowers by the pathways in the vegetable
garden. Where such borders are formed, they
provide an abundance of flowers for cutting, and
impart to the kitchen garden an interest that
even the best-grown vegetables and fruits are
scarcely capable of doing. Usually these flower-
bordered pathways run straight from the entrance to
the exit, and, where such is the case, the openings
or gateways in the wall afford generous support
for flowering or fine-foliaged climbers, even though
the rest of the wall is devoted to its original
purpose of forming a shelter and support for
choice fruit trees. Indeed, the general effect
of the flower borders would be sadly marred

ii fruit trees were allowed to encroach on
the view that the careful designer of flower
borders in the kitchen garden will take pains
to provide.

The Special Supplement presented with this
issue gives a good idea of the charming effect
that is obtained by clothing these openings in this
way. Here we see a well-proportioned archway
in the wall of the old kitchen garden at
Harleyford, Marlow, where Lady Clayton has
designed and obtained some delightful floral
effects. This particular archway is clothed
with the Mountain Clematis (C. montana).
Wistaria chinensis, Vitis purpurea and Vitis or
Ampelopsis hederacea, the whole forming a
pleasant canopy to an opening through which
the flower borders and grass walk are seen, a
similarly clothed arch being shown at the other
end of the pathway. Mr. Tipping, writing of
this garden in Country Life a
year- or two ago describes it
thus : " The main floral display
is in the joyous and enticing
pleasaunce which Lady Clayton
has evolved out of the old kitchen
garden. This consists of three
walled, enclosures opening on to
the river on the south, but with
tall trees forming a northern bulwark
and backgrotmd. Wide arched
openings carry the visitor's eye
from end to end of the whole
space along a broad path which, in
the middle of the central en
closure, widens out into a grass
rotimda set with a boy's figure
can'ying a sundial and edged
with seats. This long and dignified
way is framed with a rich pro-
fusion of perennials, bulbs and
annuals, of which the selection,
the arrangement and the
cultivation are all that can be
desired."

In some instances parts of old
kitchen gardens have been made
into a more or less formal Rose
garden, and then Rambler Roses
naturally form the canopy to the
wall opening or gateway. Such
varieties as Alberic Barbier, Rosa
sinica Anemone, Ards Rover,
splendens, or, indeed, almost any
of the strong-growing ramblers, arc
suitable for the purpose, though,
where the walls are of red brick, care
must be taken that ramblers with
pink or red flowers are not used, otherwise, unless
the brickwork is fully clothed, there will be a clash-
ing of colours that will offend the eye. Of climbing
plants, other than those named as growing on the
archway, that might be used for a similar purpose
are Wistaria multijuga, Japanese and European
Honeysuckles, .-^ristolochia Sipho, Polygonum
baldschuanicum, Akebia lobata, Ceanothus veitchi-
anus, Escallonia rubra, most of the free-growing
Clematises, Tecoma radicans and Actinidia chinensis.
Before planting, the ground should be thoroughly
and deeply dug and manured, and during dry
weather the climbers must be given copious
supplies of water. It often happens that plants
which are growing against walls suffer from
drought, when those in the open have ample
supplies of moisture, a point that must not be
overlooked.

Supplement to THE GARDEN, July 5. 1913.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S

SUMMER SHOW.

FAVOURED by perfect weather
on the opening day, the Royal
Horticultural Society held its
Summer Show on July i, 2 and 3.
The exhibition was held in the
spacious grounds of Holland
House, Kensington, by kind permission of
Mary Countess of Ilchester, and by a general
consensus of opinion it was considered
one of the most successful in the annals of
the society. The arrangement of the
groups shows an advance on previous
years, and the many fine examples of
wall, water and rock gardens formed a
charming feature of this Summer Show.
Immediately the show opened, visitors
poured into the grounds in exceptional
numbers. To the Rev. W. Wilks (Secre-
tary), ]\Ir. S. T. Wright (Superintendent)
ami jNIr. Frank Reader we tender our best
thanks for their assistance, without which
it would have been impossible to report
this comprehensive exhibition.

HARDY PLANTS.

It i- lii.:hly probable- that at no previoiu^ exhibition
held witliin the historic; grounds of Hollaud House hav(^
liiinly plants been displayed in such numbers or variety.
'I'lu-y wi-n- there, too, in such profusion, representative
nf ail phases of ^'ardening in the open air. whether in the
border, the rook and water garden, or what you will. Tt
is true, however, that some of the more sumptuous or eoni-
prebeusive t-vhibits — ^those embracincr rock and water
gardening, wall and water garden with herbaceous borders —
were not to be found on so vast a scale as on former occa-
sions, a fact due entirely to exi;:encies of space and the
ever-inerea^^inix volume of exliibitors per\adini^ this
particular ti'Ki. Henee moderate-sized exhibits were seen
rather than dthers of huye size.

01" th<- bnlder herbaceous border groups, one of the most
telling: perliaps was that from Messrs. J. Box and Sons.
]jm;t-ti'-ld. Ilayward's Heath, who occupied a particularly
uood pu-.it itm at the end of Tent Xo. 3. From a bold
central Lzroup of Tlialictrum ilavum there appeared Phloxes
and Delpliiniums in the highest perfection, while Gladioli
and Astilbes in variety were very effective. Then from a
central pond appeared a galaxy of Water Lilies, Iris
Ksempferi also playing an excellent part. The boldest
plant in the arrangement^ — an excellent subject for wild
gardening — was Salvia turkestanica

In the same tent Messrs. W. Cutbusli and Son. High-
gate. N.. displayed a group rich in Larkspurs. Ercmuri,
Wat' r Lilii s and the ever-welcome Iris Kaempferi. It
wa-- most itlective.

li' I's, Limited, Liverpool, had some rather choice plants
on a table group— Armeria cephalotes Bees' Iluin .
Trollius patuhis (type). I,upinus argenteus. Trolliiis
yunnanensis (rich golden), Primvda angustidens (with
iirh l!n\vir-; like those of P. bcesiana), Campanula pusilla
Mi--^ \\illmritt and Cehnieia speciosa argentca. A most
interrsfim: lot,

Mf^srs. Fells and Son. Hitcliin. di-^flayc.l a ltouj) rieb
i!i iJelphiniums, Oaillardia-. Canipaiiiil;i [.'i-ilia .Mi-;-;
Willmott (pah- silky blue), I'rimnla bulleyana and W
capitata, and a very fine mass of Thymus Serpylhun
coccineum.

.Mary Countess of Ilchester {gardener. Mr. Dixon) had
an unusual display of well-grown pans of Sempervivums
(Houseleeks). some of which were quite rare. Arach-
noideum rubrum, cenophyUum. murale, tomentosum,
minor, and I>aggeri Housei are all of the Cobweb section,
some quite distinct. Others noted included triste, t.
tricolor and rubicundum. There were a dozen finely-
fruited pots of Nertera depressa in the j.Toup and a few
saxifrages.

Mi. Stewart .>Laplc, Stevenage, had a brilliantly-flowered
piepr (.1 Scdiira Lydiuni, together with Campanula pusilla
Mis- Willmutt and Coronilla cappadocica, full of golden
yellow tldwers.

Mr. H. Newman. Watford, displayed a stand of a new
double-flowered Pink whichisalso very fragrant. Unfortu-
natelv. like most of its race, it bursts its calvx. It is
called Challenger.

Mr. H. Hemsley. Crawley, included rockwork. border
plants and alpines in a rather extensive exhibit. Of
i'articniar interest was a series nf hybrid Aiitiniiinums

raised from crossing sempervirens and majus. Some
are very pretty, and numerous coIoilt shades are repre-
sented. Inula acaulis (rich yellow and only 2 inches
liigh), Wahlonbergia vincaefiora, Viola hederacea, Lysi-
niachia Henryii and the pretty-flowered Coris monspelicnsis
were also noted in an interesting group.

Messi-s. Pulham and Sons, Elsenham, had some pietty
hybrid Diantlu of the taller border snrts, such as Elsenham
Seedling and hybrids of annulatus. Escallonia hmgli-y-
ensis, with blood red flowers, was very fine, and so,
too, were, Andromeda speeiosa and Campanula Miss
Willmott.

In the open Messrs. Watkius and Simpson, Tavistock
Street, W.C, arranged a group of Nemesias and Antir-
rhinums, all biung gro\m in pots. Blue Gem and Triumph
weri! the best of the Nemesias, while White Queen
auwng the Snapdragons was as good as any. IjObelia
tenuior, tall of habit and exceedingly rich in colour,
was most ett'cctive.

Mr. Amos Perry. Enfield, had a great display of Del-
phniiums, hardy Ferns and other plants. Tiie best of
the Larkspurs were Eric Kingscote (a fine mauve), perry's
Favourite, Moerlieimii (white), Carmen and gloriosa.
Campanula Bowles" Hybrid is a fine bit of colour. Hybrids
of Phlox .VreiuUii were notable, while Salvia lutea is
perhaps the only yellow-flowered species of its genus in
the herbaceous section.

Mr. M. Prichard. Christcluueh, hatl a partietdarly bold
display of rock and herbaceous gardening, in which
Larkspurs, Spirsea palmata, Wahlenbergia vincajflora.
and Lav.atera Olbia were prominent items. Many choice
alpines were employed, the Lewisias calling for special
remark.

Ml ssrs. Wallace and Co., Colchestei, had this time
to hi; e<uitent with a smaller space, utilising it well. however,
with a wall and water garden arraugemetit and a telling
bank of herbaceovis flowers. The latter was rich in
Lilies, also Hcucheras and Eremuri. Calochortus Vesta
made a great show, while Brodiaea eoccinea was excep-
tionally brilliant in colour. The water garden portion
was vi^ry naturally disposed, and the varieties of Iris
Kffimpferi that were boldly grouped by its margin were
very fine, partieulaily Morning Mist, a large flower with
white flushed lavender petals.

Messrs. James Veitch and Sons. Limited, Chelsea,
had a great gatheiing of Eremuri. also Astilbes, the pure
white A. grandis making a notable plant among the rest.

Messrs. Jaekman and Son. M'oking, staged a very showy
lot of herbaceuu-- thim4^. Irises, Delphiniums. Campanulas,
Gaillardias and other seasonable flowers. Tunica Saxifraga
alba was very pretty.

Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, Dover, displayed
Larkspurs, Pentstemous, early Gladioli. Liliums of
sorts, Eremuri. the fine violet and white Delphinium
Uev. E. Lascelles, Salvia turkestanica and the like.

Messrs. Phillips and Taylor. Bracknell, had a particularly
good piece of water gardening in conjunction with her-
baceous border groupins. Such Water Lilies as Nymphaeas
carnea, gladstoneana and the rich red William Falconer
were very good. .Many other aijuatic and waterside
gardening plants were employed with good effect.

Messrs. T. S. Ware. Limited, Feltham, had a capital
grouping of lierbaceous flowers, with a narrow pool for
aquatics and allied plants, fronting the arrangement
with choice alpines. Astilbes in variety, with great masses
of Iris Kaempferi, played their part uncommonly well.

Messrs. Carter and Co., Uaynes Park, in the open, had
a fine Japanese garden, with pool, paved way. walks and
wall garden. At the back were many Hose pyramids.
white around the pool hundreds of Iris laevigata (Ksenip-
feri) showed these fine plants to advantage. The Irises
alone were quite a featm-e, and were greatly admired.

Bailor's, Wolverhampton, had a partieularly bold ground
group of herbaci'ous flowers, finishing it do^vn to the edge
witli tile more mniule growing subjects. Engiisli frisis,
1>( Iphinium^. (JaiUardias and all the bolder things in
s.-.ivoii w'-re iii>t<-.i. Dwarf Campanulas and Tliymus
St^rpyllum coccineum were prominent features in the
foreground.

Messrs. Paul and Son, The Old Nurseries, Cheshunt.
displayed a table group of hardy cut flowers. Heucheras,
Eryngiums, Verbaseums and Alstroemerias being noted
among the bolder masses of things.

Messrs. Blackmore and I.;iiig.lon. Eatli, had a group
entirely composed of l)tlphniiiim< of the finest quality.
Statuaire Rude. Liiacina. Mi"Theimii (white). Lord Curzon
and llev. E. Lasc.lli's were perhaps the most stiiknig
of all. The Larkspurs were particularly well shown.

Mr, G. Ueuthe, K'-ston, Kent, arranged an extensive
exhibit of Lilies, choice shrubs and alpines. Tlie Eremuri
were very telling, and some fine masses of Erica cinerea
told their owi\ tale.

Messrs. Lilley, Guernsey, arranged a mo.st graceful
exhibit of early Gladioli, Sparaxis and Ixias, tJie Sparaxis
cr)nstituting a most graceful and pIea:^ing item, and,
moreover, are much too rarely seen.

The extensive group of hardy herbaceous fiowers from
Messrs. G. Bunyard and Co. was among the finest of the
table groups the .show contained. Masses of I.ilies.

Eremuri, Delphiniums, Gaillardias, Astilbes and Cam-
panulas each played a part well. The group was most
elfectively arranged.

Jlcssrs. Bath, Limited. Wisbech, had a group of tho
choicest Delphiniums, Clara Stubbs, Lizzie, Ceres, and
King of Delphiniums being all distinct and good.

Messrs. Kelway and Sons, Langport. also had a Group
rich in tlie Larkspurs they grow so well, the bold and
telling spires of the flowers creating a fine effect. Beauty,
Ladye Fair, Star of Langport, Lovely, Magnificent and
Lord Wordell were among the more striking. Single
Preonics were also on view and were very beautiful.

Messrs. Gunn and Sons, Olton, Birmingham, staged
herbaceous Phloxes in their accustomed manner. I''lora,
America, Elizabeth Campbell, G. A. Strtehlein. Lady
Stewart, Ellen Willmott and Mrs. Oliver were ail good
and distinct This Phlox group wr>s one of the most telling^
in the show.

The Misses Hopkins. Shepperton-on-Thames, had a
small, prettily -arranged group, in which Campanulas,
Viola Hopkinsonii and other choice plants were seen.

Messrs. Whitelegg and Page, Chislehurst. displayed
cflectively Campanulas, Potentilla Miss Willmott, Astilbes,
I,arkspu!-s and Irises.

Mr. F. Smitii, Woodbridge, had a shnw.v lot of Gail-
lardias. Vertjascums. Delphinium Mrs. Creighton and other
plants.

John Forbes, Hawick, Limited, arranged in the open
a very showy lot of hybrid Pentstemons. Phloxes and other
things, the whole creating a fine spectarie near the entrance.

ALPINES AND ROCK GARDENS.

.Mr. Reginald l-'ricliarrl. West Mo')r>. Winibome. iiiranui-d*
a small table group of alpines, in whieb the hnltiiint
Potentilla Miss Willmott, Campanula garu'nniia hir-iita.
Scnt'-llaria indica japonica and Edraianthus dalmatien-
were among the more prominent features.

The rock garden in Tent No, 1 arranged by Messrs.
Piper and Sons, Bayswater, was one of tho great features
of the show, the finest and most naturally disposed of any
rock garden this firm has ever attempted. It was, if we
may say so, a possible pieee of work, one that if transferred
bodily "to the open garden would have rendered alpine
plant-growing a quite possible thing. Not a few of tlioso
we see are just the opposite, more of the plant cemetery
business than anything else. Cheddar limestone was em-
ployed, its grey colour lending itself admirably to such
work. We think it was the perfect naturalness and
simplicity of the arrangement which appealed to us most
strongly. The choicest plants were employed, and those
freer-flowering subjects, like Thymus Serpyllum eoccineum,
were a great charm. A crevice filled with Sempervivum
arachnoideum was very fine.

Messrs. Cheal and Sons, Crawiey, had a pretty rock
wall and rock garden arrangement with paved walk and
the like, all delightfully planted, and presenting a type-
which is of much service in the garden. Th.c tilting of
crack and crevice was very pleasingly done.

Mr. Clarence Elliott, Stevenage, had a table rockwork
arrangement outside Tent No. -. Prominent features
were Campanula pusilla Jtiss Willmott, a very deep violet-
coloured form of C. linifolia, not more than 9 inches high,
with C. pulla, Wahlenbergia vincaefiora. the pretty
Arborescent Sedum, S. liebmannianum, and other
plants.

Jlessrs. Piper, Bayswater, in the open, had a wall and
terrace garden surroimded by clipped trees, in conjunction
with a water pool and a choice assortment of Lilies and Rose
trellis at the back.

The Warirrave Plant Farm, Twyford, arranged al]>ini's
in groups on a table spac^ in the open, employ iim
many choice and useful plants. Sedum cjeruleum w-'.s
very beautiful, while colonies of Coronilla cappadocica.
Campanula izariranica in variety and (*. G. F. Wilson were
also noted.

Mr. G. Keutlie. Keston, Kent, had a table group o!
alpines in the open, replete with choice plants. Rhodo-
dendrons daphnoides and hirsutum were good among
shrubs, while Umbilicus chrysanthus. Campanulas in
variety, inclusive of the rare C. raddeana. Erica cinerea
pygmsea, E. c. alba and E. c, rosea gave sheets of colour
of the most charming kind. Edelweiss. Sedum sul-
phureum. Umbilicus Semenovi and Silcne Elizabethse
were notable among other things.

Mr. Charles Kassell, EarUs Court Eoad. contributed a
small enclosed rock garden, with paved walk, all pleasingly
planted and arranged with rock, alpine and shrub. It
was most ettective.

The rockwork which Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent
Garden, set up in Tent No. 1 was a great attraction,
weathered mountain limestone being employed, and,
arranged close upon the ground, gave evidence of much
thought and care. Such Campanulas as raddeana,
C. pusilla Miss Willmott, C. turbinata, and C. rotundifolia
Ditton Gem were all employed in free colonies, and in
conjunction with water and supported by the best herba-
ceous plants made a comprehensive and telling feature.

Supplement to THE GARDEN, July

1913-

MISCELLANEOUS STOVE AND

GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

f^ Messrs- Jamt*s Veit<:h and Sons, Limittd, Chelsea, put
up a splendid exhibit of the choicer greenhouse flowers
lor which they are noted. These were arrani»ed in blocks
of each kind, so that their prominent characteristics were
very noticeable. Malmaison Carnations were very fine,
as 'also were the rich Tyriau iilue-tlowered Exacum
macranthum, Sollya Orummondii (the Uluc Bell Creeper
of'>?AustraIia>, Solanum Wendlandii (a number of perfect
examples), Begonia Luzerna and Cannas in variety. These
formed such a gorgeous feature that the names of a few
of the best are lierewith appended ; J. B. Van der Schoot
(golden yellow, spotted crimson), rosea sisantea (deep
rich rose), Niagara fred, margined gold), Duke of York
(crimson, gold border), Fran E. Kracht (rosy salmon),
Stuttuartia (scarlet and orange, edged liglit yellow), Duke
Emst'(reddish scarlet) and Fur.st Weid (deep crimson).

From Messrs. John Peed and Son. Norwood, came a
fine group of specimen Caladiums, all bearing evidence
of great care and attention in their cultivation, Two new
varieties stood out markedly, namely, lied Indian (rather
small leaves of a brilliant scarlet red with a narrow green
edge) and Crested Wave (a transparent white leaf with
green veins and edges). Of older kinds may be especially
noted Henry Lovatt (red, freckled, green edge), Mme.
Mitjana (intense self crimson), Mrs. Harry Veitch (dark
red). Sir Henry Irving (creamy wlute. green margin, rose
veins) and Her Majesty (bright green and white, tinged
carmine). The tiloxinias and Streptocarpus from Messrs.
Peed were also particularly tiood.

Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon, Twerton Hill Nursery,
Bath, are unsurpassed in the culture of the tuberous-
rooted Begonia. Their exhibit, consisting solely of double-
flowered varieties, fully upheld the great reputation they
have so long enjoyed. Of especial note were Queen Mary
(light rose pink), Lady Tweedmouth (salmon pink), Irene
Tambling (brilliant orange), Rose Queen (rich rose),
Princess Victoria Ijouise (pale flesh pink). Duchess of
Cornwall (rich crimson), Mrs. Bobcrt Morton (yellow, with
an amber sliade) and Empress itarie (pure white). Besides
these were some of the drooping kinds so useful for
suspended baskets, namely, Golden Shower, Mrs. Bilkey,
Ruby, Rose Cactus and Gladys.

From JNIessrs. R. and G. CMthbert, Southgate, came a
group in whicli Humea elegans figured largely. Other
subjects which were also freely represented included
Streptosolen Jamesonii, Lilium longillorum, and that
exceedingly showy annual knowni as Viscaria oculata and
Lychnis coeli rosea.

Mr. L. R. Russell of Richmond showed a fine collection
of indoor subjects, mainly consisting of fine foliage stove
plants, sucli as Crotons, Dracaenas, Alpinia sc.nderiana,
Anthurium Veitchii, Sonerillas, Marantas, ^tc. Of green-
house subjects there were large batches of Salvia Glory
of Richmond, remarkable for its bright -coloured blossoms ;
Nertera depressa, which Mr. Russell induces to fruit
in such a remarkable manner ; and Abutilon Sawitzii,
whose variegated leave-s are so much appreciated for
various decorative purposes. A large batch of the un-
common Nicotiana coiossea variegata. with immense
soft green leaves bordered with light yellow, formed a
verv striking feature.

iir. W. H. Page, Tangley Xuvseries, Hampton-on-
Thames, showed large hemispherical trroups of the three
varieties of Zonal Pelargoniums for which he is so noted,
mamely, His Mnjesty. Fiscal Reformer and Winter Cheer.
Besides these, i-maller groups of the following desirable
kinds wern shown : Barbara Hope, salmon ; Venus,
white; ami li"T :M:ije>ty. viiy briuht -almon.

.Messrs. tiudtny itii<i Son, rxnimilli, I levon. contributed
an intereir^ting eiille.tion of IN-largminuns, in which all
the different sections were represented. Tlie scented-
leaved varieties, which aie again becoming popidar,
were well shown. Besides tlie Pelargoniums a promi-
nent tViituic ut tills group was a number of dwarf flowering
plants ut Snliuiuni \Vrndlaudii.

An unusual exhibit was a large number of the different
varieties of Crassula coccinea from J.ady Nortliclitfe,
Sutton Place, Guildford. Besides the rich-coloured forms
there were several of softer hues, and exceedingly pleasing
they were. Such an exhibit of this good old plant should
lead to its extended cultivation, as for greenhouse decora-
tion its merits rank high.

Messrs. William Cutbush and Son, Highgate, put up
a large collection of llowering subjects. Hydrangeas in
blue, " white and pink being freely represented. Of
these a new variet\, La Perie, with large white flowers
serrated at the edges, was very striking. Another variety
with huge blossoms was Beaute Vendomoise whose colour
is pale mauve. Besides the Hydranireas there were also
flowering Cannas in great variety, the iiee-.^rowing Begonia
corallina, li. Bertinii (a tuberous-rotjte-d variety in great
request for bedding) and Coleus Cordelia (which as a
decorative subject has become exceetlingly popular
within the last few years).

Bottle Brush Flowers formed the predominant feature
of a collection put up bv Messrs. Stuait Low and Co.,
Bush Hill Park, Enfield. There were in addition Pelar-
goniums of diflerent kinds, the whole being edged with
that pretty free-flowering plant, Heeria elegans, whose
bright rubV -coloured blossoms were much admired.

Mr. A. LI. GwiUim, Cambria Nursery, Sidcup, showed
a. collection of tuberous-rooted Begonias, for which he is
justly noted. They were all double-llowered varieties,
many fine kinds being represented. Particularly notice-
able were Sidcup Beauty (soft pink, mucli fringed), Miss
Muriel Edwardson (light salmon, shaded cream), Sirs.
Harris (salmon scarlet), Pride of Elthani (crimson),
Margaret Gwillim (beautiful yellow) and Avalanche
(white).

Messrs. James Veitch (and Sons, [Chelsea, put, up a
group of Astilbes and Spiraas, in which the various
coloured kinds were freely represented. While of con-
siderable value in themselves from a decorative point of
view, these Spirseas also served as a desirable groundwork
for a display of a number of cut 3pikos»;of different forms
of Eremuri.

Messrs. James Carter and Co., Raynes Park, had a
small tent to themselves of various seedling subjects,
among which were several hardy annuals, and in addition
a good collection of Streptocarpi and tuberous-rooted
varieties of Begonia. mk*^-

An exhibit of cut flowers of Zonal Pelargoniums from
Messrs. H. Canned and Sons, Swanley, was put up in
their well-lcnown style, and contained a choice collection
of varieties.

Messrs. Jarman and Co., Chard, Somerset, contributed,
in addition to their Centaureas fand'f other herbaceous
plants, a number of cut floweis of Zonal Pelargoniums,
which were exceedingly bright and cheerfid.

Pelargoniums of different sections were also shown by
Mr. W. Tieseder, The Nurseries. Cardift", many of the show
varieties being very fine. Among them was the exceed-
ingly dark-coloured variety. Lord Bute, which received
an award fof merit two years ago when the Summer Show
of the Royal Horticultural Society was held at Olympia.

A representative collection of Fuchsias was shown by
Messrs. J. Piper and Sons, Bishop's Road, W. Dwarf
plants, tall pyramids and lofty standards were all there
in considerable numbers, the selection of varieties being
a good and comprehensive one. Taken altogether,
tliis was a decidedly uncommon exhibit. ^ " f ^

Mr. W. A. Mauda, St. Albans, Herts, put up a group of
decidedly uncommon plants. The distinct and showy
Fern Polypodium mandaianum was well , represented,
its good reputation being well maintained. Besides this
were the graceful-habited Asparagus elongatus, which
has proved of considerable value for decorative purposes,
and Anthericum mandaianum. well suited for growing
in suspended baskets, the dark green recurving leaves
having a central band of yellow. The curious Alocasia
lassalliana, a new species of tall and stately habit, with
leaves considerably cut, was also noted in this group.
Besides the subjects above referred to, there was a collec-
tion of hardy North American Cacti.

The only collection of exotic Ferns was contributed
by Messrs. H. B. May and Sons of Edmonton. It was a
very charming group, and well upheld the reputation
of the firm for the culture of this beautiful class of plants.
The bidk of the exhibit was made up of good representa-
tive >i>eiimens of the finest decorative Ferns. Davallias,
Polyi'olium- and Adiantums were freely represented,
but in sucli an extensive collection it is difficult to select
any for special mention. A very fine form of Adiantum
trapeziforme bearing the name of Queen Mary must not,
liowever. be passed over, it being in every way very fine.
Many of the smaller-growing kinds employed as an edging
were" very beautiful, and a small group of that extremely
mossy variety of Nephrolepis exaltata was the admiration
of everyone. The Lygodiums, too. were very striking.

Mr. Amos Perry of Enfield showed a group of hardy
Feins, not made up of curious or depauperated forms,
but consisting of fine, bold-gi'owiug kinds, all of which
are of i:reat decorative value. They were so attractive
as to suggest that hardy Ferns are very likely before long
to regain their old-time popularity.

gigas type, with banks of Laelio-Cattleya Eudora and
Aphrodite at each end. Cattleya Mossise Wagneri,
with large white flowers, tinted yellow on the lip, was shown
in perfect form. Miltonias were also fine, notably the
large M. vexillaria Queen Alexandra and M. bleuana
nobilior. Odontiodas, Disas and Phalsenopsids all con-
tributed to a very interesting and well-grown collection.

Mr, Harry Dixon, Spencer Park Nursery, Wandsworth
Common, had a nice group, in which Odontiodas, Cattleya
hybrids and Odoutoclo^sum Pescatorei were represented.

Mr. S. W. Flory. 'Tracy's Orchid Nursery, Twickenham,
had a bank of Cattleyas, mostly of the Mossiae section.
Lielio-Cattleya canhamiana and Miltonia vexillaria were
well shown.

Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Enfield,
had an extensive and well-arranged LToup, in which the
white sprays of Phalsnopsis contrasted with the intense
scarlet of Renanthera imscbootiana. Among the gems
of the collection were Cattleya dupreana Gorgeous,
Laelio-Cattleya Eudora Crowborough variety. Phalsenopsis
rimestadtiana alba (with pm-e white flowers), Cattleya
Wagneri, C. Mendelii La Vifirge and C, Mosti^t Wagneri
Princess Mary .Mertchersky. Some grand forms of
Cattleya gigas were on view, also Dendrobium thyrsoides
with immense flower-spikes.

ORCHIDS.

As in former years. Orchids attracted a deal of attention,
and the massive banks of Cattleyas, Odontiodas, Phalse-
iiojisids and Miltonias in many beautiful colours evoked
great admiration from the constant stream of visitors
who passed by.

Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hayward's fleath, were
there with a wonderful display of Odontoglossums and
their choice relatives, Odontiodas. A remarkable plant
of Cattleya gottoiana The President, with trusses of large
rosy pink flowers with deep crimson lips, was one of the
gems of the collection. Epidendrum vitellinum majus,
with orange-tinted flowers, and Dendrobium Dcari.
with masses of white flowers, were both well shown. Of
plants of botanical interest we observed the Holy Ghost
or Dove Orchid, otherwise known as Peristeria elata, and
Grammangis Ellisii.

Two bold groups of Cattleya gigas, with immense and
highly-coloured flowers, shown in Messrs. Sander and
Soil's collection from St. Albans, were really one of the
outstanding features of the Orchid tent. The same firm
sliowed Phalffiuopsids in suspended baskets, from which
the arching sprays of white flowers bung down in wild
profu-^io]i over a groundwork of Miltonia vexillaria Empress
Augu^^ta. Many choice Odontiodas were shown in the
foreground. The collection was staged in a masterly
and effective manner.

From Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart., Gatton Park, Surrey
(gardener, Mr. J. Collier), came a very interesting collection,
in which the golden yellow Laelio-Cattleya Phcebe stood
out well among the white flowers of Phalaenopsis rime-
stadtiana. Odontoglossum Pescatorei and Odontioda Brad-
shawite were both shown in superb condition, wliile Miltonias
bleuana. lambeauianum and vexillaria in variety were
shown to perfection.

Mr. E. V. Low, Vale Bridiie, Hayward's Heath, had a
group of choice Orchids, in which we observe-! the curious
Medusas Head, or Nanodes Meduss, and BullK>pliyilum
barbiceron, with hinged lips that sway in the IiL'htest
breeze. Cattleya Mbssi* Wagneri and a variety of
Cypripediums, such as callosum Sanderi, >Liudi{c and
schofleldianum, were included.

Messrs. Mansell and Hatcher, Limited, Rawdon, Vorks,
had a magnificent display of (.'attleyas, niu-tly of the

ROSES.

In the group staged by Mr. C. Turner of Slough we
noticed some very fine blooms, Coronation, a new rambler
with scarlet flowers, being very bright. Ethel, a pink-
flowered rambler, was also charming. Mr. Turner also
had a sport from Lyon Rose, this being a semi-double
variety with spreading habit and bright buff-coloured
flowers. Hugh Dickson, Lady Hillingdon, Rayon d'Or,
Duchess of Wellington and many other sorts were also
well shown.

Messrs. William Paul and Son of Waltham Cross had a
magnificent group of weeping standard and cut Roses,
these including all the latest and best varieties. Beaut 6
de Lyon, Arthur R. Goodwin, Raycui d'Or, Mme. Segond
Weber, Lyon, Juliet, Hugh Dickson, Marquise de Sinety,
Hiawatha, Tausendschon and W hite Dorothy Perkins
were only a few of the many good Rosen to be seen here.
Hobbies, Limited, Dereham, Norfolk, had a large group
composed of weeping standards and baskets of cut blooms.
Rayon d'Or was specially good, and Pink Pearl (a large
single), Danae (a perpetual yellow-flowered rambler),
Lyon, Betty, Mme. Melanie Soupert., Effective (semi-
double crimson with large flowers) and Lady Hillingdon
also called for special mention.

Mr. George Paul of Cheshunt had a magnificent bank of
cut blooms, pillar Roses and weeping standards, the whole
being fresh and of good colour. Sunburst, Captain
Hayward, Lyon Rose, Excelsa, Mrs. Da\ id McKee, Jlme.
Meianie Soupert, Beauts de Lyon, Shower of Gold (a uew
rambler with small yellow flowers) and George C. Waud
were a few of those that called for special mention.

In the large group staged by Messrs. Stuart Low and Co.
of Bush Hill Park. Enfield, we noticed many very good
flowers, such varieties as Rayon d'Or, Sunburst, Com-
mander Jules Gravereaux, Leslie Holland, Arthur B.
Goodwin, Chateau de Clos Voui;;eot, Lady Pirrie, Harry
Kirk, Duchess of Wellington, Molly Sharman Crawford
and Pharisaer being particularly fine.

The Rev. L. C. Chalmers-Hunt, Willian Rectory, Hitchin,
had a small but interesting exhibit of Roses, these includ-
ing good blooms of such favourites as Mrs. Jolui Laing,
Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. W. J. Grant and Lyon Rose.

Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., Braiswick Rose Gardens,
Colchester, put up a very fine bank of Roses, these including
a great many of the newer sort.s. Rouge Angevine, a
Hyl-trid Perpetual with large, semi-double, brilliant scarlet
crimson flowers, formed a good centre to the group, and
other noticeable sorts were Mme. Melanie Soupert, Lyon
Rose, Rayon d'Or, Miss Ada Francis (a new rambler, with
flowers resembling those of Goldfinch, but much freer
than tliat variety), and Braiswick Chrome (a new
wichuraiana with retiexed flowers of yellow hue).

Messrs. George Jackman and Stms of Wokiug used
ramblers as a background to their group, cut blooms
in tall vases and boxes being well shown in front. All
were clean and good, Hugh Dickstm. Le Progr6s, Rayon
d'Or, Lady Alice Stanley and Lady Ashtown attracting
much attention.

Messrs. Benjamin R. Cant and Sou^, Old Rose Gardens,
Colchester, put up a very large and attractive group,
ramblers and show varieties being included in great pro-
fusion. .Mrs. Alfred Tate, Lady Hillingdon, Molly
Sharman Crawford. J. B. Clark, Killarney, Rayon d'Or,
Betty, Warrior, Anicrican Pillar and Edward Mawley
were' a few among many specially good sorts.

.Mr. \V. Ea^lea, Danecroft Rosery, Eastwood, Essex,
had a charmintr little group of clean and well -coloured
flowers, ('herry Page, a new decorative Hybrid Tea,
formed a line eentv(\ the semi-double flowers of cherry pink,
shaded yellow, being most attractive. Ethel, a new
rambler with small pink flowers. Marcjuise de Sinety,
Cliateau de Clos Vougeot, Arthur R. Goodwin and Rayon
d'Or were others that called for special mention.

Messrs. Morse Brothers, Deben Niirsery, Woodbridge,
had a good group of cut blooms, Juliet, Rayon d'Or,
Orleans Rose and General aiaearthnr being very bright
and attractive.

In the small but good group put up by Mr. Jolm Mattock,
New Hcadington, Oxford, we noticed excellent blooms of
Irish Elegance, .Marquise de Sinety, Mrs. T. Roosevelt,
Mme. Segond Weber and George ''. Waud, the colour of
all being exceptionally good.

Mr. R. C. Nottoutt, Woodbridge, exhibited a lari^e
and comprehensive group of cut Roses, among them being
such good sorts as George C. Waud, Mrs. David Jardine,

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Supplement to THE GARDEN, July 5, 1913.

Mrs. TVakefleld Christie Miller and Juliet, the whole being
put up in good condition.

Mi'ssrs. G. Bolton and Son. Buntinjrford, Herts, had a
■large group of rambler and other varieties, including such
sorts as Hush Dickson, Sirs. Aaron \Yard, Nita Wcldon
and George C. Waud.

The large bank of cut blooms stjiged by Messrs. W. and
J. Brown of Peterborough was very attractive, the arch
of Lyon Rose that formed th« centre making a wonderful
bit of colour. Prince de Bulgarie, Marquise de Sinety,
Lady Krrie, Harr>' Kirk, Rayon d'Or and Joseph Hill
were others that added to the charm of this exhibit.

Mr. George Prince's group from his Oxford Nursery was
well up to his usual high standard, being well arranged,
clean and bright. His Lyon Rose was a wonderful colour,
and Avoca. was superb. Gardenia, Lady Pirrie, iMme.
Melanie Soupert, Rayon d'Or, Blush Rambler and American
Pillai were others that attracted considerable attention.

SWEET PEAS.

These were a great feature at this fine show, the
flowers being in remarkably fine condition considering
•the season.

A capital lot of this fragrant annual was shown by Mr.
James Box, Lindfield Nnrseries, Hayward's Heath. Sussex.
The colour was good, the quality all that one could
well desire and. except for a little crowding, this exhibit
was highly commendable. Varietic- worthy of special
mention were Thomas Stevenson. .Maud Holmes, Rosa-
belle, Moneymaker, R. F. Fclton, Elfrida Pearson, Dobbie's
Cream, Mrs. Gibbs Box (superb). Orange Perfection,
Blue Belle (lovely), Mrs. llardcastle Sykes, Empress
andtJamcs Box (gorueous).

A very large and comprehensive display of Sweet
Peas was shown by Sir Raudolf Jlaker. Bart.. ,M.P..
Ranston, Blandford (gardener. Mr. .\. E. Uslicr). Superbly
fine were the. flower- in every particular. Colour, form,
freshness, length and stoutness of stem*, all were showii
in a high state of perfection, and the setting up of the
flowers in the vases and stands showed considerable skill
and artistic ability. Specially good were the following
varieties : Edrom Beauty, Anglian Orange, Lady Miller,
Princess Victoria, Barbara, Mark's Tey, ilarjorie Linzee,
May Campbell, Audrey Crier, Mrs. W. J. Unwin, Lady
Evelyn Eyre, Lavender George Herbert, Dobbie's
Creaiu. Agrieola, Senator Spencer and Mrs. Cuthbcrtson.
There must have been nearly one Imndrcd and fifty stands
in this remarkable exhibit.

Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C. had a
tew bunches of Sweet Peas with other hardy flowers,
and this collection included several popular '^orts.

Most attractive was the large and artistic group of Sweet
Pe^s from Messrs. Sutton and Sons. Reading. In all there
were about one hundred and twenty varieties, duplicated
in several instances, so that the display was a very large
one. The background was adorned with huge stfl.nds
set up in attractive fashion, and what was most note-
worthy in this exhibit was the colour of the flowers.
Each colour was represented at its best, the richer
tones being most gorgeous We must not omit to
mention some of the varieties that stood out distinctly
for tlieir general excellence. They were the following:
Dorothy, Airs. Cuthbertson, Rosabellc, Scarlet Emperor,
James Box. Sunproof Crimson, Elfrida Pearson, Barbara
^superb), Earl Spencer, Lady Evelyn Eyre, Hercules,
Florence Wright Spencer, Senator. May Campbell,
Constance Oliver, Helen Grosvenor, Mrs. Townsend,
Mrs. W. J. Unwin, Scarlet Emperor. Queen of Norway,
Bertie Usher, W. P. Wilght and Thomas Stevenson.

Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh, well mamtained
their reputation as Sweet Pea experts, the flow'^is in a
large group of Sweet Pea=i set up in vases and stands being
remarkable for their superb quality. The flowers were large,
beautifully fresh, quite in character, and noteworthy for
their colour and freshness — they were without a blemish.
Especially good were Inspector, John Tngman, Dobbie's
Cream, Edna Unwin (glorious). Elfrida Pearson, Melba,
Dobbie's Blue Picotce, "Mrs. Hugh Dickson. Xew Marquis
<superb), Alr.s. C. W. Breadmore, Elsie Herbert. Lavender
G. Herbert, R, F. Felton. Lady Knox, Sirs. Cuthbertson
and Grey Lavender.

A pretty group of Sweet Peas was set up by Mr. J. D.
Webster, Chichester. The group was not large nor very
well arranged, but it included a number of the newer
and more popular varieties.

A display of Sweet Peas was set up by the Rev. L. C.
Chalmers-Hunt of Wilhan Rectory, Hitchin. There were
about forty vases, and for an amateur thi' display was
highly creditable. The quality of the flowers was generally
good.

A bright and attractive display of Sweet Peas was
made by Messrs John K. King and Sons, Coggeshall,
Essex. There were in -all about seventy-two vases
and stands, and the flowers were beautifully fresh
and of uood colour. Nettie Jenkins, 3Irs. Hoslington,
Prince Edward of Wales, Mrs. C. W. Breadmore,
Mrs. Cuthbertson, Hercules, Loyalty. Prince George,
R. F. Felton. King Alfred. Maud Holmes, Elfrida
Pearson Mark's Tey and Isabel Malcolm were all good.

Robert Sydenham, Limited, Tenby Street, Birmingham,
set up an exhibit of Sweet Peas, with dainty Maidenhair
Ferns interspersed between the vases. Lady Evelyn Eyre,
Maud Holmes, Edith Taylor and other good -sorts were in
evidence.

A pretty display of Sweet Peas came from Messrs, E. W.
King and Co., Coggeshall, Essex, whicli lost in some
measure owing to the formal and stiff arrangement of the
flowers. They were bright and fresh, and includ-^d, among
other varieties, good examples of HerculL-s, Ro>^belle,
Anglian Orange, Anglian Lavender, and Anslian Royalty
(a quite unique Petunia shade), very distinct.

A dainty exhibit of Sweet Peas came from Messrs.
G. Stark and Son, Great Ryburgh, Norfolk. Grasses, Ac.,
were added, wliicli is now very unusual, and it is question-
able whether they added to' the beauty of the display.
Hercules, Improved Olive Rutfell, Thomas Stevenson,
Lady Northcliffe (grown under glass), Maggie Stark. Nell
Gwj'une Spencer and 5lrs. Cuthbertson were the better
varieties.

A capital scries of stands and vases of Sweet Peas
was set up by Messrs. S. Bide and Sons, Farnham,
Surrey. Although not one of the largest exhibits, the
display was liighly creditable. The flowers were very
large, fre^h and clean, and represented culture of the l>est.
Edna Harland, Clara Curtis, Edith Taylor, R. F. Felton,
May Campbell, Dorothy, Princess 5Iary (Bide's), Mrs.
Cuthbertson and others were very fine.

In a specially-erected tent Messrs. James Carter and
Co., High Holbom, W.C, displayed, among other subjects,
a beautiful collection of Sweet Peas in large and handsome
bunches arranged in vases. Among the good things to
be found here were Helen Lewis (still good), Mrs. C. W.
Breadmore, Thomas Stevenson. Aimabel Lee, Earl
Spencer, Hercules, Duplex Spencer, Mrs. W. J. Un^^in,
Florence Nightingale, Kathleen and Elfrida Pearson.

VIOLAS AND PANSIES.

One corner of No. 2 Tent was occupied with a \ery
large and comprehensive group of bedding Violas and
Violettas, set up in attractive fashion in pans of silver
sand and hardy foliage. Of the Violas, conspicuous sorts
were Kathleen, May, Cygnet (a good white), Swan,
Mrs. Sandifer, 3trs. J*.. Eric Smith. Ro>al Purple. Royal
Blue. Mrs. E. A. Cade, Ethereal. Reggie, and a host of
other good tilings. The Violettas were really very charm-
ing. Mr. Howard H. Crane, Wood view, Highgate, N.,
who made this exhibit, has specialised in these beautiful
rock garden plants, and they are destined to be largely
used in the not distant future. Jjpecially noteworthy
wcrci the following sorts : liock Lemon, Rock Orange,
Rock Vcllow. Punty, Eileen. Chafliiirh. Butterfly, Primrose
Beauty, Forget-me-not, Mollie. Swi-.tness and Estelle.

Fronting the group of l'< iii.^icnuMis and Phloxes from
.John Fnrbes. Hawick. JJinitfld. were quite a immber
of popular Violas. Noteworthy sorts were James Pilling,
Campbell-Bannerman, Mar>- Buniie, Snowflake, Mrs. C. F.
Gordon, President, .Mrs. Chieliestei, Duchess of Sutherland
and W. H. Woodgatc. The flowers and growths on which
they were developed gave evidence of having been grown
in a cool, moist climate.

A very fresh and attractive lot of Violas, set up in pans,
was shown by Messrs. Carter Page and Co., London Wall,
E.C. Considering the trying weather of late, the flowers
were in re.inarkably good form and rondition. Noteworthy
examples of these useful flowers wiii: G. C. Murray, Uarr>'
Bamber, Ophelia, Jessie L. Arbuckle, Moseley Perifection,
Winchmore Blut*, Lizzie Storer, Purple Bedder, Kitty
Bell and James Pilling.

.\ mass of Viola cornuta purpurea and au interesting
lot of Violas were showm by Jtessrs. Rich and Co.. Bath.
We thought we had seen the last of exhibits of Violas in
spray -like form in. say, half-a-dozen blooms of each variety.
The Viola-i were poor and shrivelled in many instances.
Quite refreshing, however, was the purple form of V,
comuta.

A small lot of Violas and the Pvrenean species were
shown by y\x. G. W. .MiUer, Wisbech. Bridal Morn,
Swan and Moseley Perfection were the better Violas.

CARNATIONS.

Messrs. W. Cutbush and Son. Highgate, N., and P.amet,
Herts, occupied one corner of the big tent with a group
largely made up of Carnations and a few good Pinks.
Mounds and vases were most tastefully arranged
with Malmaison and Perpetual-flowering Carnations,
and in this way they were seen at their best. 3Irs. C. W.
Ward. Enchantress, White Wonder, May Day and Florence
McLeod were a few of the better Perpetual-flowering
sorts, and among the Malmaisons we noticed Marmion,
Lady Coventry, Maggie Hodgson, Baldwin, Mercia,
The Queen. Princess of Wales and Lady Grimston. This
was a capital exhibit, and did the firm great credit.

A beautiful arrangement of Carnations in bold vases,
bowls and stands was set up by Messrs. Stuart Low,
Bush Hill Park. Enfield, Middlesex:, in their exhibit. Of
the Malmal-on type, Blush JIalmaisou, Princess of Wales,
JIaggie Hodgson, Sir Evchii AVood, Lady Coventry,
Lady Arthur Butler, Jane Seymour, and a fine eerise
seedling represented these handsome flowers in fine form
and condition. There were many representatives of the
Perpetual-flowering Carnations, all arranged in vases
in a groundwork of beautiful Ferns.

S'ery artistic indeed was the group of Malmaison Carna-
tions from W. "M. Gott. Esq., Trenython, Par Station,
Cornwall. .Vs an example of an amateur's exhibit this
was very good indeed. By the free use of Smilax, arranged
on strained gauze, and a groundwork of Ferns, the etfcct
was distinctly dainty. The Carnations were arranged in
vases, and included, among others, the following varieties :
Princess of Wales, Mrs. Trelawnej', Mrs. Torens, Maggie
Hodgson, Improved Duchess of Westminster, Blush
Malmaison. Mrs. Wilfrid Gott and Kuig Oscar.

Malmaison Carnations from Messrs. James Veitch and
Sons, Limited, Chelsea, S.W., made a bright table group.
The flowers were very fresh and in capital condition.
Mercia, Duchess of Westminster, ^laggie Hodgson, The
Colonel, H. J. Jones, Princess of Wales. Souvenir de la
Malmaison and Ivanhoe were all noteworthy.

From Mr. James Douglas, Edenside, Great Bookham,
came many superb border Carnations, for whicIi tJiis raiser

is so famous. Virginia (award of merit). Renown, The
Baron (award of merit). Hercules. Sam Wellcr, Greyhound,
Eros, Helen Countess of Radnor. Ellen Douglas, Cecelia,
Bookham White, Innocence. Mrs. Andrew Brothcrston
(very distinct) and Mrs. Robert Gordon were all mo'-t
charming, and provesd conclusively that the world is
indebted to this firm for maintaining interest in tlie
beautiful border Carnations that are so much admired.

As usual, Mr C. Engelmanu, SalTron Walden, Essex,
set up a noteworthy exhibit. Tall Bamboo stands made a
background to many large and small vases in the front,
and the exhibit was set up on the ground. The flowers
were fresh, clean and of good colour, and their quality
was certainly good. Pioneer, Lady Northcliffe, Harlequin,
Carola, Jlay Day, Gloriosa, Sunstar, Triumph, White
Wonder and Lucy were some of the good things to be seeu
in this attractive display.

From Mr. Bertie E. Bell, Castel Nmsery, Guernsey,
came a most faseinatmg exhibit of Caniations. They were
set up in vases of varying description, and the flowers
themselves left notliing to be desired. The quality,
colour and freshness were quite good. Notable sorts were
Rose Dor*:-, Winsor, Enchantress, Mrs. C. W. Ward, R. F.
Felton, Britannia, White Wonder, Coronation, Carola and
Judith.

That well-known grower, .Mr. H. Burnett, Guernsey,
had Carn,ations in grand form and condition. Splendid
quality characterised the flowers in the whole of the dis-
play, specially good sorts being Mrs. C. F. Raphael.
.Marmion and La Rayonnante of tiie ^Malmaison type of
this flower. Of the Perpetual-flowering kinds, 5Iikado,
Triumph, Rosette, Mrs. H. Burnett, Shasta, Mr'^.
Crook. Lad> Northclirte, White Enchantress and May Day
were very beautiful. This exhibit was badly placed, and
should have been in tlie centre of the tent, where the
taller vases could have been seen to advantage.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

Mr. L. R. Russell of Richmond ai raug"-d a very extensive
group at the outside of the large tent. The dominant
feature consisted of the specimen Ivies for which he is
so noted, the large standards of the golden-leaved kinds
being particularly attractive. The richest coloured of
all was flavescens, though the variety palmata auri-a
ran it close. Fine specimens of Uedera dentata variegata
were also very conspicuous. The effectiveness of this
group was heightened by the choice low-growing kiuth
employed as a margin, the variety Sheen Silver being
one of the very best. Besides this extensive group of
evergreens, Mr. Russell had a fine and comprehensive
collection of hardy Fuchsias, represented by good flowering
plants. The weli-knowm varieties, such as gracilis and
corallina. were well sho^vn. and besides these such lesser-
knowni kinds as tricolour, brightoniensis, Thompsonii,
Drame, myrtifolia minos, Enfant Prodigue, globosa and
others.

From Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea, came a
magnificent collection of rare Chinese trees and shrubs.
Comparatively few were in flower, but among those in
that condition may b« especially mentioned the striking
JIagno'ia Delavayii, Spirsea Vt^tejiji. Viburnum Henryii,
and the golden-flowered Berbeiis brevipanicuJata. Ml
the specimens shown were handsome, well-grown plants,
and in this way the great decorative value of many ('f
them could be well seen. It is impossible to give au>'thiug
approaching a list, but the following were especially note-
worthy : Cotoneasters of different kinds. Viburnum
rhytidophyllum. Viburnum Da\idii. Liriodendron chinense,
Osmanthns armatus, Lonicera pileata. Lonicera nitida,
Berberis Wilsonw, Larix Potaniuii. Acers in great variety
and several Vines. Close by Messrs, Veitch arranged
a number of fine specimen Bays, some trained as
standards and others a* pyramids.

Mr. G. Beuthe, Keston. Kent. had. as usual, a large
and interesting collection of difterent plants, among which
were many imcommon shrubs. The singular Rhodo-
dendron camelliaflorum. with small white flowers like
tiny single Camellias, was noted, as also were Pin us
parviflora bearing cones, Pittosporums of different kinds,
Freniontia califomica flowering freely, Psoralea pinnrttit
with purple Pea-shaped flowers, and several Rhododen-
drons remarkable for their handsome leafage, such as
R, argenteum or grande, R. eximeum and R. Falconer! .

From Messrs. W. Fromow and Sons. Chiswick, came a
grand collection of Japanese Acers, which they growso well.
The anangement was particularly good, a judieiou-i
use of variegated-leaved Bamboos serving to lighten up
the purplish tones of many of the Maples. Another
notable feature was the way in which comparatively small
plants were grouped in large baskets, one variety in eacli
basket. In this way their collective effect could be well
noted.

Jlr. Carlton-White had a large and varied collection
of clipped Box and Vew trees, xvhieh, artificial as tht-y
are, appeal to many. Some fine standard plants of
golden Privet also formed a bright and attractive feature
of this exhibit.

Messrs. George Jackman and Son, whose name in
the culture of the Clematis is quite a household word,
showed a group of well-flowered examples. Of those
with large blossoms, which appeal to so many, special
mention may be made of Mrs, George Jackman, white ;
Mrs. Hope, "mauve ; Rubella, dark purplish red ; and
Star of India, mauve purple. Small-flowered kinds,
whose blossoms are borne in great profusion, were repre-
sented by Clematis Vitlcella alba, white ; C. V. kermesina,
red : and C. Flammula rosea, a pink form of the well-known
C. Flammula.

Clipped trees were also freely shown by Messrs. William
Cutbush and Son, Highgate. This firm has for several

Supplement to THE GARDEN, Jitly 5, 1913.

years exhibited tbeni frcoiy and done a «ood deal towards
makijif^ tlieni popular.

Pigmy trees were ]arg<-I.v sliown by iMessrs. Barr and
Sons. KinK Street, Covent Garden, the little speei-
raens'beino; all in stood health. Many different subjecti^
were rppresented, but the bulk of the collection consisti^d
of Uctinosporas and the Japanes^e Larch.

The Yokohama I^ursery Company, Limited. Craven
Hou-e, Kin^sway, also showed a collection of dwarf
trees. These were in many ca^es grouped together so
as to form miniature gaiden'^, with the many strange
accessoiics dear to the Japa?iese.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLES.

Messrs. James Veiteh and Sons, Limited, Chelsea,
showed fruit trees in pots of the high qualitv and excellence
that we have learnt to expect from ttiis long-estatlished
firm. The background of the exhibit was filled with well-
trained Peach and Xectaritfe trees, all heavily cropped.
iN^ectarine Lord Xapier and Pe:irlie^ Koyal George and
H.ile's Early being noticeable. Th'.; collection comprised
Pears Souvenir dii Congr^s and Marguerite Marillat,
Apples James Grieve and Lady Sudeicy (both in capital
form). Plums Early Trnnspnrent Gage. OuUin's Golden,
Benniston's Superb, Brandv Gage and Early Green Gage.
Of the most highly-coloured fruits. Peaches Peregrine and
Apple Lady Sndeley were prominent.

The coll'^etion of vegetables from the Hon. Ticary
Gibbs, Aldenliam House. Elstree, was one of the finest
we have seen, and did justice to that able gardener and
exhibitor Mr. Edwin Beckett. The Cucumbers Ideal,
Model and Improved Telegraph were shown in perfect
cou'-Ution, and the same may bn said of the fine selection
of 'J'omatoes, including Peach, Duke of York. Perfection,
Sunrise and Large Yellow. Caulillowers Forerunner and
Early Emperor, with Cabbages Ellam's Early and Early
Heartwell, were neatly arranged in the background. Peas
Quite Content and Duke of Albany were perfectly fresh,
the pods large and well filled. Of the root crops the
Turnips and Carrots were so regular in outline and uniform
that they might have been turned out by machine. The
Potatoes Duke of York, Royalty and Monarch were like-
wise fine. The whole exhibit was admirably staged and
of surpassingly high quality.

Messrs. Whitelegg and Page, ChLslehurst, Kent, showed
the Newberry, a new fruit, the result of crossing the well-
known Loganberry and Kaspberry Superlative. The
fruits are unusually large and of Uaspbcrry flavour. Canes
many feet in length showed the prolific manner in which
the fruit is produced.

jMcssrs. Stuart Low and Co.. Bush Hill Park, Middlesex,
had an exhibit of Figs in pots, all hearing heavy crops.
The varieties shown included St, John's, Marseilles, Brown
Turkey and White Tschia.

A collection of about two dozen Pineapples was sent by
Lord Llaugattock, The Hendre, Monmouth. The fruits
were uniform in size and beautifully finished, and rellectrd
credit upon Mr. T. Coomber, the gardener. These fruit.-^
are now so little grown in this comitry that it came as a
pleasant surprise to see this fine collection.

From Laxton Brothers, Bedford, came a superb collec-
tion of Strawberries. Of tlie varieties shown the following
were remarkably fine : Sir J. Paxton. The Bedford.
Laxton's Bedford Champion (of exceptional size and
colour), Laxton's Profit, Laxton's Keward, lloyal Sovereign,
Laxton's Epicure, Maincrop, President, Givon*s Late
Prolific and Utility. Two new varieties, namely, Th"'
Earl and King George, were shown, the former an improved
*■ Vicomtesse " and the latter a fine early forcing variety,
the result of crossing Koyal Sovereign with Louis "Gauthie'r

S. Heilbut, Esq., The Lodge, Holyport, ilaideuhead
(gardener, Mr. Camp), sent a number of Plums and
Cherr.y trees in pots, all bearing heavy crops. A large
tree of the Black Cherry, Bigarreau Noir de Guben, occu-
pied the centre. Other Cherries that were freely laden
were Bigarreau Napoleon. Emperor Francis and Bigarreau
?j'oir de Schmidt. Of the Plums, Mrs. McLaughlin Gage
and Early Transparent Gage were very fine.

SUNDRIES.

Hortiniltilral sundries, ;is usual, played a very important
part at tliis exhibition. Tlie larmier displays were arranged
at intervals in the open, and others in "the special tent
reserved for this inirpose.

In the Test.

A large and varied display of tlie famous Carlton
insectii'ides and fertilisers was staged by Xlessrs. Walter
Voss .and Co., Limited, Glengall Road, Jtillwall, and some
notable e.xamples of seedlings grown with and without
partial soil sterilisation by Creol, illustrating the liene-
fivs 'leri\ed from adopting this method.

Messrs. H.Pattisson and Co. .Greyhound Lano.Streatham,
had their usual display of liorse" boots iu various sizes,
and several useful garden tools on show.

Aeme labels, exhibition boxes and all descriptions
of wire trainers and frames required for garden use were
prominently displayed by Mr. John Pinches, Crown
iJuilditii^s, Camberwell, who had a most interesting stand.

itessrs. Abbott Brothers, Sonthall, showed the Osterley
table tray, cake stand and honey spoon.

Lawn sand and weed destroyers were arranged by Messrs.
A. J. Barbotir and Co., Upper Fontaini' Street, Leeds.

.Many well-known specialities in fertilisers, insecticides,
weed-killers, itc, were arranged by Messrs. Joseph Bentley,
Limited, Barrow-on-Humber, Hull.

Messrs. Barr and Sons, King .Street, Covent Garden,
showed a very interesting and varied display of garden
requisites, including fertilisers, tools, sprayers, garden
labels, bulb planter, &c.

^ eed-billers, insecticides and fungicides, together with
handy spray pumps, were shown by .^[essrs. William Cooper
and Xephews. Berkhamsted, in great varietv.

X useful selection of garden knives, scissors' and trimmers
was staged by Mr. A. Cunliffe, Kenyon, Fulham, S.W.

The Elsenham ,Iam Company, Elsenham, made a useful
display of preserved fruits, jams and lavender water.

French garden requirements of every description were
shown by the French Cloche Company, Caxton House.
\\ e.stminster, S.W., who have long made the equipment
of Ireuch gardens a speciality.

Garden trugs of usefid design and light construction
were shomi by the Garden City Trug Company, Norwich.

Liquid Gishurst compound, fibre, beetleeute, &c were
staged by Mr. F. Hickson, Anerlcy Hill, Upper Norwood.

Jeyes Sanitary Compound Company. (i+. Cannon
street, E.C., had their stand of well-linown horticldtural
preparations and sprayers.

Mr. .\. Key, Norwich, displayed the result of fertilisers
on a miniature lawTi.

The Lamp Pump, a very ehe.-ip and ert'ective means of
raismg water for gardens and glasshouses, was shown hy
tlie Lamp Pump Engineering Coinpany. Carey Street,
Westminster. S.W., and shoidd commend itself to anvone
reciniring an easy means of raising water.

.Mushrooms and mushroom spawn were sho\fn in a most
interesting manner by Messrs. J. Pither, Limited, Cowlev
Koad, Uxbridge.

.\ motor hoe, driven by petrol, which should prove a
useful article where large are.as have to be dealt with, was
staged by Mr. C. W. Polito, Gracechurch Street, E.C.

liustic table decorations, in many interesting and varied
designs, were shown by Mr. Robert .Sydenham, Birmin<'-
ham, and greatly admired.

Specimens of continuous cloches were arranged to
advantage by the Three C.'s Company, Dale Street, Liver-
pool, together with useful garden handlights.

-Mr. C. J. Wakefield, Wilton Road, S.W., had .1 useful
exhibit of " Floral Aids," designed to assist in the economic
arrangement of cut llowers.

The well-loiown garden fertiliser. Hop Manure, was
staged by Messrs. Wakeley Brothers and Co., Limited,
Honduras Wharf, Bankside, S.E. This is a m,.-i - n,, live
and clean manure, which is the. only real sul.-iihiir tor
stable manure upon the market. Garden vases wme also
shown bv the same firm.

-Mrs. H. E. Webb, Odstock. Hanwcll, showed specimens
of bird-nesting boxes and modern feeding appliances.

*.' Owing to pressure on our s/mce we are compelled to
hold over the remninder of the report of tlie Sundries.

OFFICIAL LIST OF AWARDS.

Gold Medah.—T\K Right Hon. Lord Llaugattock for
Pineapples; Sir Randolf Baker, Bart., for Sweet Peas;
the Hon. Vicary Gibbs (gardener, Mr. E. Beckett) for
vegetables ; Jlessrs. Blaekmore and Langdon for Begonias ;
Messrs. H. B. May and Sons fol exotic Ferns ; Messrs.
Paul and Sons tor Roses ; Messrs. William Paul and Son,
Waltham Cross, for Roses ; Messrs. Sander and Sons
tor Oichids ; .Afessrs. Sutton and Sons for Sweet Peas ;
Messrs. James Veiteh and Sons, Limited, for fruit trees
in pots ; Messrs. .Tames Veiteh and Sons, Limited, for
Chinese plants ; .Messrs. R. Wallace and Co. for an orna-
mental water garden ; Messrs. Charlesworth and Co
for Orchids ; and Messi-s. Dobbie and Co. for Sweet Peas.
Cttps.
Coronation Cup. — Jlessi's. .Sander and Sons, St. .Albans,
for Orchids.

iiilver-ailt Cups. — Mr. James Box for a water garden.
Sweet Peas, &c. ; and Mr. L. R. Russell for stove plants^
shrubs and Irises.

Larqe Silver Cups. — Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart., for
Orchids, Carnations and Roses ; i\ressrs. William Cutbush
and Son for herbaceous plants, cut trees and flowering
plants ; Messi-s. G. Bunyard and Co., Limited, for Roses
and hardy flowers ; and Mr. Charles Turner for Roses.

Silner Cups. — Messrs. Mansell and Hatcher, Limited,
for Orchids ; Mcssi-s. Stuart Low and Co. for Orchids'
Roses. Carnations, New Holland Plants and fruit ; Messrs.'
J Piper and Son for a formal garden, rock and water
plants. Fuchsias, Japaiiese trees, (fee. ; Messrs. J. Carter
and Co. for a water garden and flowering plants ; Messrs.
J. Veiteh and Sons, Limited, for flowering plants. Bay
trees. Orchids, itc. ; Mess.s. Barr and Sons for flowering
and foliage plants, and a herbaceous and water garden*;
Messrs. W. and J. Brown for Roses and herbaceous plants ■
Jlr. M. Prichard for herhaeeous, alpine and bog plants ;
and 3Ir. \. Gwillim tni llrLMiilas ;ind herbaceous plants!
Standard Caps. — .Mi'^s]-, Stuart Low and Co. for
Orchids ; Messrs. Peed and Son for Caladiums and flower-
ing plants ; Mr. Amos Perry for herbaceous plants, alpiues,
Ferns, ttc. ; Messrs. G. Jackman and Son for Roses,
herbaceous plants and Clematis ; J. S. Arkwright. Esq..
for Lychnis Arkwrightii ; and Messrs. W, Fromow and
Sous for Japanese JIaples.

Sileer-gilt Hogg Medal. — S. Heilbut, Esq. (gardener,
Mr, Camp) for fruit trees in pots.

si/ver-'jilt Knightian Medal. — Messrs. La.>:ton Brothers
for Strawberries.

.silrrr-./ili Flora Medals. — Mr. S. W. Flory for Orchids ;
Mes-r>. ,1. King and Sons tor Sweet Peas ; Messrs. G. and A.
Clark. Limited, for herbaceous and aquatic plants ; Messrs.
Baker's for herbaceous and alpine plaids ; .Mr. B. E. Bell
for Carnations: Mr. H. Burnett f^ir Carnations; .Mr. C.
Engelmann for Carnations ; Messrs. F. Cant and Co. for
Roses ; Messrs. B, Cant and Co. for Roses ; Hobbies,
Limited, for Roses ; Wilfred W. Gott. Esq., for Carna-
tions ; and Messrs. J. Cheat and Sons for an ornamental
garden.

Silver-gilt Banl'sian Medals.— Uv. G. Reuthe for
herbaceous and alpine plants and shrubs ; Messrs S
Bide and Sons, Limited, for Sweet Peas ; Messrs E w'
Kmg and Co. tor Sweet Peas ; Messrs. Gunn and Sons
tor Phloxes ; Messrs. Harkness and Sons for herbaceous
plants and Spanish Irises ; Mr. G. Prince for Roses ■
Messi-s. Fred Smith and Co. for herbaceous plants and
flowers ; .Messrs. 6. Stark and Son for Sweet Peas and
Kniphohas ; Bees, Limited, for alpines and hardv plants ■
the Right Hon. Lord Biirnham (gardener, Mr. G. Johnson)
for Carnations ; John Forbes, Hawick, Limited for
summer - flowering plants ; Mr. H. S. Jones for Phlox and
Canterbury Bells; Messrs. Thomas S. Ware, Limited
for Begonias ; and Mary Countess of Hchester for Semner-
vivums and Sa>dfrages.

Silver Flora J/«(fcffe.— Mr. H. nixon for Orchids:
Messrs. J Veiteh and Sons. Limited, for Orchids- the
Rev. Chalmers-Hunt for Bose.i, Sweet Peas and vcetables •
Messrs. Phillips and Taylor for water garden and he"rbaceoiis
plants ; Messrs. Whitelegg and Page for alpines ; Robert
Sydenham, Limited, tor Sweet Peas: Messrs R and G
Cuthbcrt for Humea elegans and Spiraea; jMr. James
Douglas for border Carnations ; the Guildford Hardy
Plant Nursery for herbaceous plants ; Jlr. T R Haves
for Heaths and alpines; Mr. H. Hemsley for Antir-
rhinums and rock garden ; -Mi. .Mattock for Roses • Mr
Notcutt for Roses ; Mr. Reginald Prichard for herbaceous
plants ; and Jlr. Frank Lilley for Gladioli and Sparaxis

Sihvr Banksian Medals.—Ur. E. V. Low for Orchids-
Jlr. .Tames MacDonald for exhibit of Grasses • Mr'
Garlton-Wlute for clipped trees ; Messrs. Bath, Limited'
tor Roses and herbaceous plants ;, Mr. Webster for Sweet
Peas ; Jlessrs Kelway and Son for Delphiniums, Sweet
Peas, ,tc. ; Lady NorthcliH'e (gardener, Jlr. J. GoatJoy)
for Cra.ssuln coccinea ; Jlessrs. Carter Page and Co for
flowering plants ; Messrs. G. Bolton and Sou for Roses -
-Mr. Howard Crane for Violas and Violettas ; Mr Waltei
Easlea for Roses; Mr. Clarence Elliott for alpines -
Messrs. G. Gibson and Co. for herbaceous plants • Mr
G. W. Jliller for herbaceous and small plants - Messrs'
Morse Brothers for Roses ; Jlr. W. H. Page forflowerme
plants ; Jlessrs. Watkins and Simpson for Antirrhinums ■
Jlessrs. W. and C. Bull for herbaceous flowers - the War-
grave PLant Farm. Limited, for herbaceous flowers -
and Messrs. Godfrey and Son for flowering plants. '

Certtftcale of .ipp-enation.—l^lT. Hemsley tor work in
raising new Antirrhinums.

AWAEDS TO HOETICDLTUIIAL SCXDRIES.

Silrer-iiilt Banlcsian Medals. — Jlessrs. T. Crowther and
Son for ornamental stone and iron work ; and Jlessr?
Gamagc and Co. for garden tents, i-c.

Silver Banksian Medals.— ilemis. Abbott Brothers
tor Osterley table tray, &c. : .Messrs. Benton .and Stone
Lnmted, tor spraying machines, Ac. ; Messrs. Castles
for garden fiiniiture : and Jlessrs. Liberty and Co for
Japanese garden oinanients, &c.

Brome Buutsiai, .U ed a Is. —Mess.rii. Barr and Sons for
tools and implrnirnts ; Jlessrs. J. Bentley, Limited for
horticultural chemicals ; Jlr. John Bradley for Bunty
tea-house ; Miss Edith Fisher for water-colour drawings -
Four Oaks Spraying JIachine Company for spravTn"
machines ; Jfessrs. Heathman and Co. for Ladders, liose"
&c. ; Jlr. Robert Hughes for water-colour drawincs •'
Jliss Jlitchell tor garden baskets ; Jlr. John Pinches for
labels, exhibition boxes, *c. ; Jlessrs. W. Voss and Co ,
Limited, for insecticides ; and Jlessrs. B. A. Wiite
Limited, for insecticides, sprayers, iV'C. '

from

AWARDS TO NEW PLANTS.

Okchid Committek.

First-class Certificates. — Jliltonia Sanderw, from .Messrs
Sander and Sous,St..A.lbaus ; Jliitonioda Harwoodii Fowler's
variety, from J. 6. Fowler, Esq., South Woodford ; and
Odontioda Brewii. from Messrs. Charlesworth and Co
Hayw-ard's Heath.

Awards of .1/f/ff.— Cattleya Mosshie Dreadnought,
from Jlessrs. Sander and .Sons ; Odontioda Wilsonii
Le President, from Messrs. Charlesworth ; Cattleya.
Serenata, from Jfessrs. JlansoU and Hatcher ; and Cattleva
Jlossiai Olympia, from Messrs. Charlesworth and Co.

FitniT AND Vegetaelk Co.mmittee.

Cultaral Commendation. — JIusliroom Bide's JIarket
from Jl'-s^rs. Pither, Limited, Uxbridge. '

.\\vai(|s r. riiinmended at Wisiej , June 24, and approved
by the louiicil on July 1 ;

First-class Cerlificale. — Strawberry Connoisseur,
Jlessrs. I.axton.

Awards of Merit. — Pea King of tlie Dwarfs, from Jlessrs
Sutton ; Pea Superb, from Jlessrs. Lax-ton. Bedford •
and Pea No. a,S79. from Jlessrs. Hurst, Houndsditeh

Higldi/ Commended.— Pea Hundredfold (award of merit
1910), from Jlessrs. Sutton ; and Pea Snowdrop (award
uf merit, 1903), from Messrs. Carter.

Floral Committi;!:.

First-class Certificates.— Ad'mntnm traoeziforme Queen
Jlary, from Jlessrs. JLay ; and JIagnolia Delavavi, from
Jlessrs. Veiteh.

Aaards of Merit. — .\diantum siebertianum and Poly-
podium Mayi cristatum. from .Messrs. Jfay ; Rose Ophelia
from .Messrs. W. Paul, Waltham Cross ; Nepenthes'
Lewis Bradbur.s- .and N. atropurpurea. from Jlessrs.
J. \eitcli; Iris Kwmpferi Jlorning J.'.ist. from Jlessrs.
Wallace ; border Carnations Virginia and The Baron
froni Jlr. J. Douglas ; Roses Ulster .standard. JIuriel
Dickson and Jtrs. Godfrev Brown, from Jlessrs Huoli
Dickson, Belf.ast ; and Erigeron hybrida Pink Pea>L
from Mr. A.. Perry,

July 5, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

339

TREES

THE

AN D

SH RUBS.

TO

WISTARIAS AND HOW
GROW THBM.

A LTHOUGH the species ol Wistaria are
/% few in number, they are perhaps the

/ % most generally useful of all oma-
^"^^ mental woody climbers, for they can
• * be put to many uses and are suitable

for planting in many parts of the
Hritish Isles. No climber is seen to greater advan-
tage when grown over a pergola than either of
the Wistarias, the long, pendulous racemes of
flnwvrs borne by these plants peculiarly fitting
them for the purpose; while they are equally
desirable for planting against the walls of houses,
on trellises, or against medium-sized trees.

A peculiarity ol the various kinds of Wistarias
is their happy manner of adapting themselves
to widely different circumstances. In some cases
they are found clothing walls 30 feet
high, their branches extending to a
length of 100 feet or more, whereas
in other instances they appear as
quite dwarf, stunted bushes ; but in
either case they bloom with remark-
able freedom. This versatile character
is due in a great measure to their
partiality for severe pruning, and it
has often been noted that after a
stunted, spur-like condition of tl>e
secondary branches has been produced
by constant pruning, the tlowers are
borne with extraordinary freedom. In
this way it is possible to cultivate the
Wistarias on quite low walls, whereas
it they disliked severe prmiuig it
would only be possible to grow them
in positions where there was abun-
dance of space. Japanese and Chinese
gardeners have taken advantage of
their indifference regarding . severe
priming, and have for many years
grown them as quite dwarf bushes.
Examples of this method of culture
wer<- prominent at the Royal Horti-
cultural Society's Exhibition at Chel-
sea, for a group of well - flowered
specimens ranging in height from
2 feet or 3 feet to 8 feet or 10 feet
was a very noticeable feature. Such
plants were also used with effect in
tlie Japanese Garden which was such
a popular adjunct to the Japan-
British Exhibition a few years ago.

During the last ten or twelve years bush Wistarias
have been extensively used for forcing for greenhouse
decoration in spring, and for that work they pos-
sess a quality which is shared by very few other
kinds of shrubs, viz., that they may be grown in the
same pots for a number of years without serious
signs of deterioration and contmue to bloom
regularlv.

Bush Wistarias are sometimes used with effect
as lawn plants, where, even if they are not kept
rigidly spurred back, very ornamental groups
may be formed by placing a number of Oak posts
or iron rods 10 feet or 12 feet high in the ground
and connecting them with cross-bars. The shoots
are then trained over the supports and the side
shoots spurred in.

When planted against a wall, it is always an
advantage if an arrangement can be made so that
the branches stand clear of the wall. This may be
accomplished by encouraging a spurred system of

growth on the secondary branches, or, where a
verandah occurs, the main branches may be trained
along the edge. Thus arranged, the inflorescences
hang quite clear of the wall and produce a similar
effect to that depicted in the accompanying
illustration.

The Best Soil. — The Wistarias make most
satisfactory progress when planted in well-drained,
loamy soil. They may be propagated by layering
the branches in spring or by grafting upon sections
of root. Care must be taken during the early
stages of growth to prevent the shoots becoming
twisted together, for, once they become badly
entangled, it is almost impossible to separate
them without injury. Train a sufficient number
of branches into position to cover the available
space ; then check the remaining branches.

How and When to Prune. — The first pruning
may lie ( amid out early in July, cutting the
secondarv branches back to witliin titrte or four

a year or two ago a few miles out of Exeter. There
the station-master's house, waiting-rooms and
other offices on a country station were quite covered
with tliis plant in full flower.

W. multijuga. — This also is a Chinese plant,
but it has been grown by Japanese gardeners
for a very long period, and is the plant which is
so popular with Japanese and Chinese artists,
its racemes frequently being depicted on screens
and pottery. The accompanying illustration of
a plant of this species growing upon the
residence of Mrs. Godfrey Pearse at Taplow,
Bucks, is sufficient evidence of its ornamental
character. Its great difference from W. chi-
nensis lies in the fact of its inflorescences
being very much longer. As a rule, they are
anything between 2 feet and 4 feet in length.
When grown on a pergola, the full beauty of the
inflorescences is apparent. The type has somewhat
deeper-coloured flowers than W. chinensis, but

A BEAUTIl'UL PLANT Ol' WISTARIA MULTIJUGA IN MRS. GOUFRliV PEARSE S GARDEN AT HITCHAM

LAND, TAPLOW, BUCKS.

buds of the base. In September, shoots which
have appeared during the interval may be pruned
back also. Wistarias are long-lived plants, and
there are numerous specimens in the coimtry
which are upwards of fifty years old.

Wistaria chinensis is the commonest and most
widely-grown species. A native of China, it is
said to have been originally brought to England
by Captain Robert Welbanke in May, 1816.
The plant is too well known to need a lengthy
description, for its pinnate leaves and pendulous
racemes, 8 inches to 10 inches long, of fragrant,
mauve flowers are well known to everyone. Its
white variety is also an excellent plant, but flore
pleno, a form with double flowers, is less desirable
than the type. There is also a form with varie-
gated leaves, which is of no special interest.
Throughout the country numerous very large
plants are to be met with, but one of the most
effective displays the writer has seen was noted

there arc forms with purplish and white blossoms.
Of these the white-flowered variety is the best,
and few more beautiful objects can be imagined
than a well-flowered group. The racemes are
shorter than those of the type, but are from i foot
to 2 feet long.

W. frutescens is a species from the United
States. Its leaves are 9 inches or more long,
and the lilac purple flowers appear in racemes
from 4 inches to 8 inches in length. It was intro-
duced about 1724, and blossoms later than the
Chinese plants. The variety flore albo has white
flowers ; albo lilacina. pale lilac blossoms ; and
purpurea and magnifica, purplish flowers.

W. braehybotrys, a native of Japan, is a
weaker-growing plant than the others. Its bluish
or mauve coloured flowers are borne in short,
rather dense racemes later than those of the
better-known species. White and rose coloured
varieties of this species may be obtained. W. D.

340

THE GARDEN.

[July 5, 1913.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

SOME NEW AND LITTLE'- KNOWN
RAMBLER ROSES.

AS novelties of these delightful Roses
appear annually in large numbers,
one is sensible of a great desire for
k a more extended garden, so that space
^ could be found for them. One
hesitates to discard old friends, and
yet how can we have the newer varieties ?
It is fortunate for many of us that it is not
essential to grow these Roses solely upon
arches. They appear equally as charming grown
as pillars, or even as isolated bushes. In my rambles
through large gardens, I frequently see many posi-
tions unoccupied where I should plant them. Given
good, prepared holes some 3 feet in depth and
2 feet in width, they thrive admirably. I have num-
bers of them so growing, each about six fi'et apart,

the Hybrid Tea Simplicity in size, and with

charming, glossy foliage. It must be grown by all
who admire single Roses ; and who does not ?

Francois Juranville, although not exactly
new, is one of the loveliest and most effective.
The buds are so freely produced, and the rich rose
colouring of bud and open bloom combine to make a
grand display. It flowers in early June, and is seen to
the best advantage as a pillar or weeping standard.

Aviateur Bleriot is as yet the richest orange
yellow we have, superior to Shower of Gold and
Klondyke in colour, although it is rather
wanting in form. Yet in the mass its orange-
coloured buds are very charming, and it
deserves to be widely grown.

Alexandre Girault is a colour most unique in
the wirhuraiana class, a deep carmine with rich
(irange \-cllow at the base.

Mrs. M. H. Walsh, Lady Blanche and Sander's

White are all really gocid. I have not y^t been

i^..1.^4.

shapely of all and quite charming, as beautiful as
a Tea Rose.

These, then, are a few bf the best of recent intro-
ductions. At present we are deficient in good
yellows that maintain their bud colour. Even
Shower of Gold will change to nearly white. I
want to see a golden yellow Dorothy Perkins.
Who will be the forttmate raiser of it ?

ROSA SINICA ANEMONE ON A i^ulMH W.M.I, IN A .SURREY GARDEN.

and they are never wanting in charm, even when
bloom has ceased. A delightful new variety is
Grafin Marie Henriette Chotek, obtained by

crossing the Farquhar Rose with Richmond, and
it has inherited a lot of the colour of Richmond.
With me plants budded last summer are now
(June 12) a mass of bloom, the blooms being very
shapely and produced in large bunches. It cannot
fail to be one of our most useful ramblers. This
Rose must not be confused with another named
Grafin Chotek. Another lovely variety is

Fraulein Octavia Hesse. It is a wichuraiana
with all the beautiful glossy appearance in foliage
of Alberic Barbier, but with a larger and more
refined bloom, quite waxy in texture, and of the
palest creamy white. This Rose. I believe, will
become as great a favourite as Alberic Barbier.
It flowers about mid- June. A variety that has
pleased me much is

Silver Moon, which hails from America. It has
immense single creamy white blossoms, resembling

able to compare them to ascertain which is best,
but I rather fancy the first named will prove to
be the finest trusses. All three are pure white,
so that White Dorothy will soon have to take a
lower position.

Eisenach and Sodenia are good rich colours,
the former having single blooms and the latter
double, and both will be very welcome.

Sylvia will certainly be wanted in every garden.
It yields huge clusters of lemon white, double
flowers, is very fragrant and perpetual flowering,
and a true wichuraiana in habit.

Ethel is a very dainty variety, yielding quanti-
ties of flesh pink blooms, which are gracefully
borne upon the plant.

Coronation, with its flakes of white on a scarlet
ground, is most showy, and as it comes earlier than
Excelsa, should prove very valuable.

Joseph Liger has very double flowers of a pale
canary colour, tinted pink. It is one of the most

ROSE BEAUTE DE LYON.

How can one describe the colour of this glorious
Rose ! The raiser, M. Pernet-Ducher, describes
it as coral red, slightly shaded with yellow. I
can even detect more shades in its glorious blooms
than the raiser has done, for in the blooms before
me there is a rich orange shading, with just a dash
of pinkish rose on the outer petals. When
fully expanded the effect is remarkable. How I
wish it were perpetual. It belongs to that group
of Pemetiana Roses more nearly resembling Soleil
d*Or in habit, lusty growths with
huge prickles and foliage of a lovely
bright green colour ; but there is no
perpetual blooming in the strict mean-
ing of the term, although we obtain
a few blooms throughout the summer
and autumn. The Rose has the
habit of producing its blooms on
sliort stems all the way up a growth,
_ ,^ and the top buds open first, although
fast followed by the others, thus
making from one plant a feast of
colour much wanting in our gardens.
Beaute de Lyon opens early. With
me it was in full bloom by the er.d
of May, and I could cut hundreds
I if the charming flowers on any one
morning. I am not surprised the
Irench people are asking much for
this Rose, and I predict that it will
he very popular in our own country
for planting in bold beds well isolated.
just as one should plant that other
delightful early bloomer Conrad
F. Meyer and its white sport
Nova Zembla ; in fact, the trio
would make a most lovely group ni
themselves. Beaut6 de Lyon makes
a superb standard, and it is almost
impossible to imagine the effect of a
five year old tree well tied out so as
to make a spreading head. I should
say it is from this Rose or its parents
that we owe the wonderful colour in
Mme. Edouard Herriot, the most sensational Rose
of modem days. Danecroft.

ROSA SINICA ANEMONE.

This beautiful single Rose, with silvery pink
blooms and bright, shiny foliage, is flowering with
unusual freedom this year at Clandon Park in
Surrey, where it thrives amazingly on a high wall
facing due south. The fine example illustrated on
this page was planted about eight years ago, and at
the present time it has not only exceeded the heigh
of the i2-feet wall, but it covers a space 32 feet
in length. It is growing in a well-prepared border
of good sandy loam, and receives no special treat-
ment beyond the cutting away of weak and dead
wood in winter. Not only is this Rose suitable
for a south wall, but for clothing tree stumps in
a sheltered position it is invaluable. This variety
is sometimes referred to as the Cherokee Rose,
but it is not the only Rose that lays claim to this
title.

July 5, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

341

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

THE budding of Roses upon various
stocks is simplicity itself as an opera-
tion, but somewfiat difficult to describe.
A few minutes spent in closely
watching a skilled hand will go much
further than the most elaborate paper
upon the subject. This is why I have appended

PREP.\RING BUDS FOR INSERTION.

a few rough sketches to help those who have
not the opportunity of a practical lesson.

Budding is one of the most important pomts
towards successful Rose-growing, and is the main
method of propagating. July and August are
the most suitable months for the operation, but
no set time can be given, seeing so much — in fact,
all — depends upon having both Rose bud and the
stock in a suitable condition for the work.

In the illustrations I have dealt with stocks
intended for standards, which are usually tall
Briar stems collected from the hedgerows. But
I may say at once that the budding of dwarfs
is upon the same principle, and that, whatever
the stock may be, it is essential to work the Rose
buds as closely to the base of dwarfs on the one
hand, or the main stem of standards on the other,
as can be managed,

Stlection and Preparation of the Buds.— It
is of vital importance that the bud should be in
the right condition, i.e., about half ripened.
\ good general guide to this state is the easy
snapping off of the Rose thorns. Buds from below
an expanded flower, or where one has been cut
from, are generally fit. But the real proof of fitness
lies in the way the small piece of Rose wood can be
removed from the bud after it has been cut away
from the shoot of growth, as shown in Fig. la.
In the sketch I do not show ;ae longer string

HOW AND WHEN TO BUD ROSES.

of bark that is generally removed with the bud
(see Fig. 2a). This facilitates the removal of the
Rose wood (Fig. 2b). Now, if the seat or heel
of the bud is prominent and in such a condition
as to permit of its lying close upon the exposed
wood of the stock, which we shall presently come to,
it is fit for use. Should the Rose eye or bud be
too forward or the reverse, the root or seat of the
bud will tear out and leave a small hollow when the
small portion of Rose wood is removed. Such a
bud is absolutely useless. The leaves sho\ild be
cut off, as in Fig. xb, directly the shoot is removed
from the parent Rose, otherwise there is much
loss of sap, which dries up the bud and prevents
the clean removal of the undesired portion of Rose
wood. Always keep the Rose buds moist, but
not over-wet, at the seat when extracted and
prepared f'->r insertion.

Inserting the Bud.— In Fig. 3a we find a
shoulder of a standard Briar which has had a cut
about two and a-half inches long made lengthwise
in the bark. This should never be more than
just through the bark, any injury to the wood
beneath being greatly against a successful " take,"
and often quite fatal to the survival of the Rose bud.
Lift or prise up the bark carefully with a thin piece
of ivory or metal, generally found at the end of a
handle of a budding-knife. If you do not possess
such a knife, a piece of hard and thinly-shaven
wood may be used, .\void, as far as possible, any
disturbance of the glutinous sap lying between
the bark of the stock and its wood. The Rose
bud (Fig. 2) should be cut off at the dotted lines,
and then gently inserted beneath the sides of the
raised bark, as depicted in Fig. 3b. Slip the bud
well down to the bottom of the cut and close to the
main stem of the standard stem. In Fig. 4 we have
a dwarf stock with the bud inserted, which should
be as near to the ground-line and base of the stock —
in fact, upon the crown of roots — as possible. It
only remains to tie in firmly, without constriction,
as in Fig. 3c, taking great care to have the seat of
the bud firmly upon the wood of the stock.

So far as the budding of dwarf stocks is con-
cerned, it is advisable to draw soil around these
for a few weeks previous to operating. This con-
duces to a softer condition of the bark and easier
liftuig of the same. Should the bark be in the
least obstinate when lifting, do not upon any
account force it, but water well and try again a
week or so later, for the whole of the operation must
go smoothly and quickly, without any semblance
of force or bruising. You will find, too, that any
cutting awuv of superfluous growth upon the stocks
will cause a check of sap that will make the bark
cling for about a week, so do not interfere with the
growth just previous to or at the time of budding.

After-treatment. — When the bud is set, which
will be in two to three weeks, keep a look-out for
any imdue constriction caused by the swelling of
the stock. Sometimes this is very rapid, in which
case the tie must be slightly loosened, if not entirely
released. Raffia is about the best and cheapest
tying material, and can be readily freed by cutting
through with the point of a knife on the side opposite
to the Rose bud. Take care only to cut through the
tying materia! ; any cutting of the bark will only
mean a widening gap that takes time and sap to
heal over. By three weeks, also, you should be

able to discover whether your operation is a
success or a failure ; in the latter case the buds will
have turned black, and the same stock or shoulder
can generally be tried again a little beyond the first
attempt. So long as one does not let the Rose
bud get dried up, I have found fine weather more
successful for the operation than showery weather,
and it is never advisable to have water in the wound
made to receive the bud. Have a sharp and clean
knife, do the work with as little force and bimgling
as possible, and you should be successful in the
majority of cases. As a rule, we do not interfere
with the growth of the stock imtil the winter or
early spring after budding, but a few of any
straggling growths may be cut away after the bud
is well set. A. P.

LAYERING THYME.

From a few clumps of old plants a splendid batch
of young ones may soon be obtained by judicious
layering. The tendency of old plants is to produce
a number of long, bare stems with young branches
and leaves at the extremities. When these stems
are layered with plenty of roots forined on them
near the base of the young shoots, many quite
bushy plants are the result. Mix together loam,
leaf-soil, sand, road grit or old potting soils, and,
having carefully spread out the clump of Thyme,
place a shovelful of the compost in the centre.
Then with one hand lift up the fringe of growing
Thyme, and put some compost underneath with
the other. Finish the work by putting more soil in
the centre and pressing it down firmly. All that
it is necessary to do now is to keep birds away
and the new compost in a consistent state of
moisture. When sufficiently rooted, the layers
must be cut away from the parent plants and
planted 18 inches apart in anew bed. This distance
will allow them room to grow in without over-
crowding. Avon.

METHOD OF BUDDING ON THE SHOULDER
OF A STANDARD BRIAR.

342

THE GARDEN.

[July 5, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Flower-BedS. — Now that the plants in the
beds are nicely established, less watering will be
needed. The Fuchsias and a few other free-
growing subjects must not be neglected. Ivy-
leaved Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Ricinus, Perillas,
Melianthus and other quick-growing plants must
be staked and tied as they require it, or the first
heavy storm of wind and rain may do considerable
damage.

Liliums and Gladioli that are throwing up their
flower-stems must also be attended to, whether
they are planted in borders or beds. Stake in
as unobtrusive a manner as possible. One or two
good soakings of liquid manure (not too strong)
while the plants are growing will add materially to
the quality of the bloom.

Narcissi and Darwin Tulips planted in beds for
cutting purposes should now have ripened off
sufficiently to warrant their being lifted. Dry
weather is the best time to choose for this purpose,
and, after lifting, the bulbs should be exposed to
the air and wind for a few days to become per-
fectly dry, when they may be stored away in a dry,
airy shed, preferably in trays similar to those used
for seed Potatoes. Here they may remain till the
time for planting.

Wallflowers. — Early-sown plants will soon be
forward enough for planting out, although if the
weather happens to be dry it is best to leave them
till there is a likelihood of one or two days' rain or
dull weather. Keep the hoe going between the
rows in the seed-bed, and this advice is applicable
in all cases where seedlings are being raised.

Myosotis. — Choose a day after rain to get this
seed in, sowing it broadcast on a light piece of
ground which has been nice.ly broken up and
levelled. Though not difficult to raise, much seed
is often wasted by burying it too deeply, and I prefer
only to beat it into the soil with the back of a rake.
There are many varieties used for bedding, but
Royal Blue is perhaps the best for the purpose.

Plants Under Glass.

Layering Malmaisons. — Early-flowered plants
will now be ready for layering. Good, healthy
shoots only should be layered, and when the plants
have too many shoots to allow of plenty of room
between the layers, they should be reduced, or as the
young plants make root they will become attenu-
ated; also, there is more difficulty in preserving
the roots when lifting. Lightly syringe in the
morning and afternoon, giving a little shade during
the hottest part of the day ; this will keep the
foliage in a good, healthy condition till the layers
make root. Later batches may be layered as they
go out of bloom ; but it is imperative, to obtain
good plants for early blooming, to get a batch
layered as early as possible.

Perpetual-Flowering Carnations. — Plants nicely

rooted m the flowering pots and intended for
autumn blooming should now be gone over and
stopped for the last time. Plants that may have
been propagated late to increase the stock of
newer varieties should be given their final potting
at once ; these, if stopped towards the end of the
month, will come in for midwinter and early spring
blooming. Syringe frequently to keep the plants
clean, and spray regularly with an insecticide to
keep the tips free from fly. Though the plants may
take a fair quantity of water just now, over-watering
is the worst possible thing for them, for though
big, leathery-looking foliage may look well, it is
not at all an essential for good quality flowers, and
is certainly more liable to attacks of rust.
Stove and Greenhouse Climbers must be kept

regularly tied, and plants such as Bougainvilleas
and Allamandas coming into flower should be
kept well watered and fed.

Propagation. — Small decorative subjects, such
as Panicum, Selaginellas, Tradescantias and
Fittonias, should be propagated regularly, these
being very useful for surfacing large pots in the
dwelling-house and as edging plants in the houses.

The Kitchen Garden.
Sweet Corn. — Plants of this should be growing
freely if the weather keeps warm, and liberal water-
ings should be givei^ ; this will induce the cobs to

swell up quickly. If grown slowly they are apt to
become tough or hard before the cobs attain edible
size.

Marrows and Gourds also are making rapid
growth ; in each instance they must be liberally
supplied witli water and manure. The Marrows
should be cut in a young state, and not allowed
to remain on the plants till they get old, or the
further fruiting properties v/ill be impaired.
Gourds that are being trained up poles or pergolas
must be regularly tied, and thinned if necessary,
using a fairly strong, soft string for the purpose.
This is especially necessary where the plants produce
heavy fruits.

Leeks. — The earliest plants may have a little
soil drawn up to them, but it is not advisable to
cover them up too much at once ; also provision
must be made to keep the roots supplied with
water, as they take a great deal of moisture out of
the soil, without which it is impossible to obtain
good results.

Onions. — This is a crop which pays for a little
extra attention, and during dry weather the bulbs
should be watered and fed fairly liberally ; but the
autumn-sown bulbs may not require much after this
date, as they will soon begin to mature, and too
much water sometimes induces them to split.

Fruits Under Glass.
Successional and Late Peaches must be kept

regul.irly tied, and where these are coming on too
fast, a little whiting or some other shading may
be put on the glass, and so steady them somewhat.
This shading is also an advantage in the case of
Nectarines, some varieties being rather apt to
burn slightly durmg a very hot spell, though to get
a really good colour in the Peaches they must be
exposed as much as possible to the light.

Hardy Fruit.

Peaches. — Early varieties, such as .\rasden Jinie
and Hale's Early, are now swelling freely, and to
ensure good flavour and texture in the fruit, liberal
supplies of water and manure should be given,
keeping the trees syringed daily, at least during
hot weather. Keep all shoots tied or nailed in
regularly, and expose the fruits as much as possible
to light and air — in fact, treat them as though they
were under glass — and in a favourable situation
the fruits will be nearly as good in quality, if not so
delicate in appearance, as those under cover.
Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. IVIocatta, Esq.

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Sxtrrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS,

The Flower Garden.

Staking Annuals. — Where they are rather
closely surrounded by high trees, some of the taller
annuals, such as the Stock-flowered Larkspurs and
Scabious, will be all the better for staking and tying,
as a high wind might do much damage were this
attention omitted.

Dahlias. — These are now growing freely and
require close attention in the matter of tying,
as their succulent stems are easily broken. At
the risk of being charged with reiteration, 1 must
again recommend binder twine, as for all strong-
growing plants of a herbaceous nature it is so much
superior to tarred twine or raffia, as it combines
strength with softness. Where old tubers were
planted, the growths will require thinning out.

Hoeing. — This work should have frequent
attention. Plants refuse to thrive where the
surface of the soil is allowed to become baked
and hard ; moreover, weeds at this season are
persistent unless kept in check.

The Rose Garden.

Taking Notes. — July is the Rose month in the
North, and is the best time for taking notes for
future use. Special attention should be given to
new introductions, noting their merits and defects,
bearing in mind that a variety should not be
condemned on one year's experience unless it has
some obvious radical defect.

Feeding Teas. — In order to secure a good
autumn crop of bloom, the Teas should have a little
feeding. A light dressing with Thomson's Plant
Manure will do all that is wanted. Run the hoe

through the bed or border after applying the
fertiliser.

The Rock Garden.
Propagating Phloxes.— The alpine Phloxes
form one of the most valuable assets the owner
of a rock garden possesses. In the subulata section
there is great choice, from the pure white of Stellaria
and The Bride to the deep rose of Daisy Hill
and Vivid. Among other species, amoena,
canadensis alba, c. Laphami and ovata all have
much to recommend them. Cuttings of any of
the foregomg may be put in from now till the
beginning of September. Five-inch pots filled
with sandy loam and surfaced with clean sand will
be found suitable. Place in a shaded frame, such
as that recommended for Pinks and Cheiranthus.

The Wild Garden.

Funkias. — I am more deeply impressed than
ever with the beauty of the Funkias, especially
subcordata and undulata foliis variegata. Dig
a pit in the grass, i8 inches wide and the same
depth, fill it with rich soil, plant a strong clump
of either of the above in it, keep the grass
mown round it, and in due time it will prove an
object of great beauty.

Oreocome Candollei. — This is another graceful
plant, with finely-cut, Fern-like foliage. It should
be planted as recommended for Funldas. Rabbits
are fond of its tender foliage, but if the garden is
not rabbit-proof, a circle of dwarf wire-netting
should be placed over the plant in the early part
of the season.

Plants Under Glass.

Perpetual Carnations. — Where it is intended
to grow on last season's plants which have finished
flowering, the old flower-stems should be cut well
back. Some of the surface soil should then be
carefully removed, and the plants should receive
a top-dressing of, say, two parts loam, one part
old Mushroom manure, with a good dash of bone-
meal and wood-ashes. Syringing in the morning and
evening in hot weather will prove highly beneficial
to the whole stock.

Top - dressing Calanthes. — The deciduous
Calanthes are gross feeders, and will be much
benefited by receiving a top-dressing of old cow-
manure about this time.

Fruits Under Glass.

Vines. — In houses where the crop is ripe, dry
conditions must obtain. In houses where the fruit
is beginning to ripen, the border should be examined,
and if there is any tendency to dryness, it should
receive a good watering, as water must not again be
applied until the crop is cut. This precaution
and the sprinlding of the pathways daily for
some weeks yet will do much to check the attacks
of red spider.

Figs : Second Crop. — Where Figs were ripened
early, a good second crop may be expected on the
current year's wood. After from four to six fruits
have been formed, the point of the shoot should
be pinched out, in order to throw the vigour of the
tree into the swelling fruits.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Loganberries. — Continue to train the young
shoots as growth advances, and remove all super-
fluous shoots. Make sure that the crop is protected
from the birds.

The Vegetable Garden.

Staking Late Peas. — This work must receive
attention. If stakes are scarce, the last sowing
may have a few twigs supplied to the plants to carry
them on till the pods from the first sowing have
been picked, when rhe stakes from it can be used
again.

Broccoli. — The planting of this crop should
be finished as soon as possible and any blanks
in those previously planted be filled up.

Vegetable Marrows. — Watch for the appearance
of female blossoms and duly pollinate them, as
one cannot always depend upon this being done
by natural processes. Thin out the shoots before
those which are superfluous rob those that are to
remain.

Turnips. — Thin succession crops and make
another sowing of Early Milan for autumn use.

Salading. — This requires constant attention.

Mustard and Cress should be sown weekly. Radishes

fortnightly, and Lettuces every three weeks or so.

Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

|ULV 5, 1913.J

THE GARDEN.

343

THE UPKEEP OF LAWNS.

^ S a constant reader of The Garden, I see
/\ from time to time a good many articles

/ % and replies to correspondents upon
/ % this subject. Most of them are
* » :idmirable, but there are one or two

points upon which I venture to differ.
I .\m old-fashioni'd enough to think that, at any
rale upon strong soil, it ]s rather a mistake to
destroy all the worms, for I think that they arc
useful in draining and aerating the soil, and also
that Ihey improve the soil. One of your corre-
spondents suggests that they only bring up good
-.oil 10 the surface which had better have been left
where it was, but I take it that a certain amount
ot soil whieli passes through the worms is by this
operation transformed from what was often poor
siil)Soil into a valuable mulch for the roots of the
grasses. Of course, golfers will have greens free
from worm-casts, and I am not so sure about the
value of worms on lighter soils ; but I think it
is a mistake to destroy them in la^vns which are
formed upon clay soil. Incidentally, I hear that
in consequence of the increased use of worm-
destroyers in and around London, a very large
nimiber of thrushes have been poisoned, and that
this fine songster is in danger of being exterminated,
leaving the less welcome blackbird to take his
place.

Then as to top-dressing lawns, 1 see decayed
manure, soil. Sic, recommended to be applied in
thicknesses varying from a quarter of an inch to an
inch ! I wonder if the writer ever dressed a lawn to
the depth of an inch. He woiild, I think, be siu-prised
at the quantity of soil which would be required,
and I should be surprised if many of the finer
grasses in the lawn ever survived the treatment.
One very frequently sees superphosphate of lime
recommended for lawns ; but if you do not wish
to have your lawn a mass of white Clover, you
must not apply superphosphate.

Sometimes the what nnt-to-dos are as instructive
as the what-to-dos ; but lest I should be told it
is more easy to criticise than to advise, I will say
that on strong soil I give my tennis lawns a dressing
of sand every winter, two cartloads to each lawn,
spreading this as evenly as possible. In the early
spring this is swept perfectly level and practically
disappears, but it improves the grass and helps
to make a firmer foothold for the tennis player.
.\ little later in the spring about half a hundred-
weight of chemical manure fanti-Clover) is applied,
which dressing is repeated in the autumn — the end
of September, or October, according to the weather :
this washes in with the first shower. For brushing
in the sand we use a homely branch of an Ehn sucker
about eight feet or nine feet long, and we sweep
the lawns with this to spread worm-casts in the
early part of the season (of course, an extra long
Birch broom would be equally effective). We
do not roll much after March, and we never mow
without the grass-box, for I think the grass cuttings,
if left on the lawn for a mulch, do more harm than
good, as fine grasses do not like much mulching.
1 almost ruined a lawm by mulching with stable
inaniire one season, for the manure killed most
of the finer grasses and encouraged the coarser ones.

Then as to weeds. Everyone who cares for a
good lawn knows what a trouble they are, especially
on new lawns and impoverished old ones. Some
grumble at the cost of lawn sand, which is very
effective if used properly ; and more of us who
are not quite so young as we were grumble at the
backache which ensues from applying lawn sand

a pinch at a time. For this class I liave a line
remedy. I bought the other day a thing called
Kilm, a tube containing some chemically-treated
sand with a spike at the end of the tube ; this
one presses into the crown of a Plantain, Dandelion,
or the root of a Buttercup, and a small quantity
of the sand is released, which falls on the plant
and burns it up. Having been idle through a
sprained knee, I have found great delight in
hobbling round my lawns and destroying a few-
weeds, for the lawns are not yet perfect, though
I think Kilm is a perfect cure for weeds and back-
ache, and I am sure that any lady gardener will
be pleased with it. N.B. — Care must be used,
as it is poisonous.

Lowdham. A. H. Pearson.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

WHEN AND HOW TO GROW
ENDIVE.

CULTIVATORS who have had some
considerable experience with this
valuable plant know how very
important it is that more than one
sowing of seeds should be made. In
some seasons, sowings made on
certain corresponding dates each year do not yield
satisfactory' crops of plants. In one year the
latter may grow and form grand hearts ; in another,
they will prematurely bolt, or run to seed, and be
quite useless. This will happen in the same dis-
trict. Of course, seeds must be sown about ten
days earlier in northern counties than in southern
ones. In both cases it is advisable to make two
sowings, the second about a fortnight after the
first. If the resultant plants from the first sowing
are too early, those from the second may be quite
satisfactory.

Sow Broadcast Thinly. — .\ cool border should
be selected on which to form the seed bed. Ground
previously cropped with early Potatoes is generally
the most suitable for both raising seedlings in
and for the pleuits when finally put out. It will,
in such cases, not be at all necessary to dig or manure
the soil ; simply fork it up and break the large
lumps ; then tread it down if of a light nature,
but do not tread if it be of a heavy, retentive
nature. Rake the surface with a wooden rake,
finally drawing the rake in one direction. Sow
the seeds broadcast and very thinly ; some of them
will fall into the shallow furrows left by the rake ;
then lightly draw the same tool across in the
opposite direction, and the seeds will be sufficiently
covered.

Transplanting the Seedlings. — In the meantime
a larger bed must be prepared, in which the sturdiest
of the seedlings should be transplanted, at a distance
of 4 inches apart each way. Firmness, again, in
the case of light soils, is essential.

The Final Planting. — Where the cultivator
can command several positions in his garden he
should put out plants in each, and not confine
them to one. In every instance the plantations
made should be compact, so that it will be con-
venient to cover the plants during frosty weather.
Many are lifted by cultivators and placed in cool
frames in low-lying districts, to prevent injury by
frosts and excessive moisture, but as such accommo-
dation cannot be foimd for allfthe plants, some
covering material must be put on. When
covered for blanching purposes the leaves must
be perfectly dry, else the heart portion will
decay. Avon,

RULES FOR JUDGING (T. T.).— The Royal Horti-
(Miltural Society, Vincent Square, London, S.W . issue.'!
a code of judKing rules, and this is doubtless the book
to which you allude. It is procuraWe from tlie address
gi\'en for Is. (id., post free, to judges, exhibitors, com-
mittees and officials. It is a publication of the utmost
vahie, which cannot be too diligently studied.

LAWN CLIPPINGS (L. X.).— Lawn clippincs decaycl
are u.scful manure, but on a heavy clay soil they arc liable
to add to the amount of water held, and render the soil
wetter and colder. They would be less bad if added
comparatively fresh, provided lime is present in the soil
A stronK brine may be used for the purpose of killins weeds,
and it is innocuous to domestic animals.

TROUBLESOME WEEVILS (P. T.).— The insect had
disappeared from the box. but from your description we
suspect it is a beetle called the Vine weevil or the clay-
coloured weevil. Your best plan would be to spread a
sheet under the affected plant and shake off the beetles
after dark, or cause them to fall by shining a brijrht li'd t,
upon them. The larvae are extremely troublcliome^to
roots ot Ferns, Pelargoniums and other greenliouse plants
and it would be avoiding much danger of "this kind to catcli
and kill the beetles now. The latter may be done quite
easily by dropping them info a pail containing a little
paraffin.

WOODLICE IN GARDEN (E. M. 0.).— It is unusual for
this pest to do much mischief in the garden, unless
encoura;:ed by rubbish or decaying woody stuff lyin"
about. However, as the insects appear to have done some
mischief, you had better place dry boards, slates or even
small pieces of sacking, with cut strips of Potato, Carrot
or such-like things bencjjth, for them to feed on. E.saminc
these retreats nightly, and with the assistance of a kettle
of boiling water you may dispose of large numbers. These
things often harbour in the vicinity of garden frames, and
if you have any such, lay other traps" near them, 'ihis
pest in large numbers is very destnictive to all vegetable-
life, and increases with great rapidity. Both the hedgehog
and the toad will devour large numbers, and in the green-
house more particularly we encourage the latter for its
serviceability in this direction.

ERADICATING BISHOP'S WEED (A. P. F. P.).—
The only sure way of eradicating this pest is by forking
it out and burning it. No weed-killer could possibly
reach it, owing to the underground spread of its roots,
or, if it killed it, the roots of plants near would suffer
in like degree. When digging cannot be done, the plant
might be much weakened by plucking off every sign of
leaf growth, and though the operation is a tedious one,
some of the most insidious of the weed pests of the garden
have been killed in this way. This, indeed, is the only
method we know of impairing the vitality of the plant
when the roots have been entangled with shrub roots.
In autumn such plants could be lifted, washed clear of
all soil, and the weed picked out. As every scrap, even
to that of half an inch long, is capable of making a plant,
nothing short of the most drastic methods, accompanied
by much perseverance, are calculated to effect a clearance.

TACSONIA BUDS DROPPING (H. B.).— The Ta.-sonia,
like some other climbers, is liable to drop its buds if it has
unlimiteil loot loom, even if there is a prepared border for
the reception of the roots. They will often run away
therefrom into unsuitable soil, and then the buds some-
times drop. 1 he same result might ensue if the roots were
in a conlined space and allowed to suffer from the want
of water. If the plant is cut back hard every year, it
would lead to the production of strong, soft shoots, from
which few flowers could bo anticipated. 1 he greatest
measure of success in flowering the Tacsonia is in the
autumn to thin out any old or weaidy shoots, especially
where they are entangled into a close mass. This will
allow of the ripening of the wood under the influence
of light and sunshine. If the plant has covered its allotted
space, the more vigorous shoots may be shortened Itack
to keep it within bounds ; if not, they may be allowed
to remain entire. Providing the plant is in good con-
dition, young shoots will in the spring be freely produced,
and in the ordinary course of events they should flower
well.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— A/. A. B.— Rose Charles Lawson,
a Hybrid Chinese. The Pink, though charming, is not a

named variety. E. Upfon. — Callirhoe lineariloba. Thi

Lupine appears to be a pretty seedling form of Lupinus

polsrphyllus, and is well worth growing. E. A/.,

Parkitone. — The Carnations are : 1 , Rose I)or6 : 2, May

Day: 3, Defiance: 4, Britannia. Adela Box. — We

believe it to be the old Noisette, Soifaterre. Fred Hobbs.

— Carpenteria californica. TT. J. H., Eigh Wf/combe. —

Saxifraga tricuspidata and Oxyria digyna. Devonian. —

Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) and Brunfelsia calycina.

Winton. — 1, Potamogeton polygonifolius : 2, L.riophorum
angustifolium; 3, Orchis maciilata: 4. Pedicularis palus-
tris; 5, Drosera rotundifolia : 6. Polygala vulgaris; 7, Ver-
bascum phoeniceum variety: 8, V- phlomoides; 9, V.
Chaixii. Bull, Eereford — 1. Sedum roseum : 2 Cam-
panula portenschlagiana ; 3, Veronica Teucrium dubia ; 4,
Saxifra'ja trifurcata ; 5, S. fursuta: 6, Cenfaurea montana :
7, Heuchera micrantha ; 8. Omphalodcs verna alba ; 9,
Campanula latiloba ; 10, Veronica virginica ; 11, Cam-
panula persicifolia alba: 12, Hemerocallis (lava: 13.
Pentstemon, garden seedling ; 14, No specimen ; 15,
Pentsteraon, garden seedling : Ifi, Saxifraga cordifolia ; 17,
Linaria purpurea variety.

344

THE GARDEN.

[July 5, 1913.

SOC I ET I ES.

CITY OF LONDON ROSE SOCIETY.

THE first exhibition held in connection with the above
society was opened l>v the president, the Lord Mayor,
at noon on Thursday, the 26th ult. The display of Roses
was particularly good, and surpassed even the most
sanguine expectations. In the open classes some of the
best Rose nurserymen in the United Kintidom contested,
but it was the classes for members living witliin the eight
miles radius of the Roya! Exchange that proved most
interesting, inasmuch as they demonstrated how well
the Queen of Flowers can be grown in the vicinity of a
great city. Owing to the demand made on our space
by so many other shows, we regret that we are only able
to publish particulars of the principal classes.

In the nurserymen's section Messrs. .41ex. Dickson
and Sons of Newto^vnards were first out of ten entries
for forty-eight blooms, distinct, staging some superb
examples. Second honours went to Messrs. B. R. Cant
and Sons, Old Rose Gardens, Colchester, and Messrs. R.
Harkness and Co., Hitchin. were third.

For twelve distinct varieties, three blooms :,f eacli,
competition was equallv strong, first honours falling to
ATessrs. G. and W H. Biu-ch of Peterborough, who had
The Lyon Rose and Mrs. T. Roosevelt in superb condition.
The second prize here went to Mr. George Prince, and third
to Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, Ncwtownards.

For eighteen Teas or Noisettes, Mr. G. Prince of Oxford
was first with a very clean lot of flowers, his bloom of
Molly Sharman Crawford being very fine. Messrs. J.
Burrell and Co. were second and Mr. John Mattock third.
For eighteen bunches of decorative Roses, to be staged
as naturally as possible, there was ?ood competition,
first prize going to iMr. .John Mattock, Headington.
Oxford, who had'a beautifully clean lot of flowers. Duchess
of Wellington and A. R Goodwin being conspicuous.
Messrs. William Spooner and Son? of Woking were second,
liaving .Mrs. .\lfred Tate in fine form. The third position
was filled by Messrs. Frank Cant and Co.

Class .5, for seven baskets of cut Roses, was well con-
tested, Messrs. Chaplin Brothers of Waltham Cross being
first with good Lady Hillingdon and General Macarthnr.
Second prize went to .Messrs. .Alex. Dickson and Sons,
whose Queen Marv and Irisli Fireflame were very charming.
Mr. A. R. Hammond, Burgess Hill, Sussex, was third.
This was a very beautiful class.

For twelve blooms of new Roses. Messrs. ."Uex. Dickson
and Sons were first with the following : Mrs. Amy
Hammond, Mrs. G. Preston, Mrs. Foley Uobhs, Edward
Mawley, .\lexander Hill Gray, Duchess of Sutherland,
Mrs \rthur E. Coxliead, Mabel Drew, Mrs. J. H. Welch,
Jfrs. H. Hawksworth, Lady Greenall and Lady Barham.
The second prize went to Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons,
and third to Messrs. .T. Burrell and Co.

In the open amateurs' section competition was good,
the challenge cup offered for twenty-four blooms, distinct,
being won bv William Onslow Times. Esq., Bedford Road,
Hitchin, whose flowers were large but rather soiled. Mr.
Henry Balfour. Langlev Lodge, Headington Hill, Oxford,
was second, and E. F. Brown, Esq., Lynton, Sussex
Place, Slough, third.

For twelve blooms, distinct, E. T. Brown, Esq., Lynton,
Sussex Place, Slough, was first, his Dean Hole being very
fine Courtenay Page, Esa., Broad Street Place, E.C.,
was second, and E. Jackson, Esq., Rochford, Essex.
third .

In the members' classes, the City of London Challenge
Pup, for twelve blooms, distinct, went to H. L. Weltem,
Esq., 16, Water Lane, B.C., for a superb dozen, the best
of which was Yvonne Vacherot, which gained the medal
offered for the best bloom in Classes 9 to 17 These
Roses were a great credit to the exliibitor. Lewis S.
Pawle, Esq , Stock Exchange, was second, and John
Hart. Esq.. third.

The metropolitan classes, open only to members who
grow their Roses within eight miles of the Royal Exchange,
were most interesting and well contested. The challenge
cup for twelve blooms, distinct, went to E. H. Coxhead,
Esq., of Streatham, who had a lovely bloom of William
Shean. The second prize went to R. de Escofet, Esq.,
Dulwich, whose box contained the test bloom in Classes 24
to 29, this being Mrs. Myles Kennedy. Mr. de Escofet
also won the challenge cup offered for nine exhibition
Roses, distinct, with a fine lot of flowers.

\. C. Turner, Esq., 29. Great St. Helens, B.C., was
the winner of the challenge cup offered for twelve bunches
of decorative Roses, distinct. Lady Hillingdon and
Gardenia being very flue. The second prize here went
to H. L. Weltem, Esq.

The best bowl of cut Roses arranged with Rose foliage
was shown by Mrs. A. C. Robinson, this being a delightful
arrangement of Rose Mme. Abel Chatenay and foliage of
Rosa rubrifolia.

The following Roses were awarded the National Rose
Society's silver medals, offered for the best blooms in the
show : Classes 1 to 6 — H. Hartmann, a new Hybrid Tea
of bright scarlet crimson colour, broad, shell-like petals
and deep centre, shown by Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons.
Classes 9 to 17 — Yvonne 'Vacherot, shown by H. L.
Weltern, Esq. Classes 18 to 23 — Avoca, shown by A. E.
Stanger, Esq. Classes 24 to 29— Mrs. Myles Kennedy,
shoivn by R. de Escofet, Esq,

ROSES AND SWEET PEAS AT BOURNEMOUTH.

Last year the members of the Bournemouth Gardeners'
Mutual Improvement .Association held a small show for
the purpose of raising funds for the benefit of the associa-
tion. It was a great success. The competitive classes
were open only to the members, but local nurserymen were

cordially invited to stage non-competitive exhibits,
and the response was most satisfactory. This year the
members amalgamated with the council of the Bournemouth
Horticultural Society, and arranged to hold a mucli larger
exhibition and to invite nurserymen from a distance to
sliow. The first date of the two days selected was June ib,
" Alexandra Day " proving a very popular choice, as
crowds of people visited the show, which was, in every
way, most successful. Messrs. Carter, Raynes Park ;
Messrs. Webb, Stourbridge ; Messrs. Dobbie, Edinburgh ;
.Messrs. Keynes, Williams and Co., Salisbury : Messrs.
George Cooling and Sons, Bath : Messrs. Watts and Sons,
Limited, Bournemouth : Mr. J. Stevenson, Wimborne,
Dorset; and Mr. Maurice Prichard, Christchurch, were
the principal nursery firms exliibiting. The sliow was
held at the Winter Gardens, not in the spacious pavilion,
but in tents on the lovely lawn, which is surrounded by
stately trees, including Pines, and charming siu-ubs. In
one tent the members of the Bournemouth Gardeners'
Association staged their competitive exhibits, and in the
large tent the various nursery firms staged theirs.
The Gardeners' Tent.

Mr. W. Shave, Wimborne, had the best table decoration
of Sweet Peas, Mr. Heath (gardener to O. G. Eussel,
Esq., Bournemouth) being second. The last-named
exhibitor won in the class for a table decoration of Roses ;
Mr. Evans (gardener to G. J. Fenwick, Esq., Crag Head,
Bournemouth) was second. Messrs. Heath, Weaver
(gardener to .Major 'Tinker, Christchurch) and Evans won
in the order named tor a basket of Roses. Messrs. Shave,
C. Pearce (gardener to Mrs. Ormond, Bournemouth) and
W E Wilkins (Bournemouth) had the winning bowls of
Hoses respectively. Mr. Taylor (gardener to Walter
Child Clark. Esq.) won in the class for six vases of Roses,
stagina grand blooms ; he was followed by Messrs. C.
Pearce and W. Webb. Mr. Heath had the best epergne
of Sweet Peas. .^fr. Weaver staged very fine Sweet Peas
in the classes for nine and six vases respectively. Messrs.
G. Cockman and C. Pearce following in these classes.
The display of Sweet Peas on a given space of tabling was
a good class, but only two members competed, namely,
Messrs. Shave and Weaver, who won in the order named.
Mr^ C. Humphries staged the best sincle bloom in the Rose
classes, winning with a flue specimen of Hugh Dickson.
Walter Child Clark, Esq.. had a table of twenty-two vases
of Roses, chiefly Lady Waterlow. gro-n'n under Pine trees.
The blooms we're magnificent, and a flrst-class certificate
was awarded, a similar award going to R. Chamberlain,
Esq the chairman of the council, for a table of Roses,
Carnations and Sweet Peas. Mr. Weaver liad the best
three vases of hardy herbaceous fiowers.

Non-competitive Exhibits.

Messrs. Watts and Sons, Limited, were awarded a
gold medal for a fine display of Roses and Carnations,
beautifully staged ; Messrs. Webb and Sons, a gold medal
for a <»rand lot of Sweet Peas, about eighty varieties,
charmingly staged; Messrs. Carter, Raynes Park, a
gold medal for about fifty vases of Sweet Peas of high

Mr. J. Stevenson was given a silver medal for fifty
vases of Sweet Peas, arranged in his well-known stylo,
light and graceful ; Messrs. Dobbie. a silver medal for fifty
vases, beautiful in colour of fiower, but cut rather short
in the stem ; IWessrs. Cooling and Sons, a silver medal
for lovely vases of climbing and Hybrid Tea Roses ; Mr.
T K. Ingram, a silver medal for standard Roses and
I.iliums ; a similar award to Mr. M. Frichard for a grand
collection of hardy herbaceous fiowers.

Certificates were awarded as follow : Messrs. Keynes,
Williams and Co.. for Roses : Mr. H. M. Elford, for border
Carnations on plants and boards ; The Burton Hardy
Plant Nursery ; Mr. D. Lorrimer, for a display of Roses ;
Mr. Percy Sugden. Wimborne, for Roses.

NORFOLK AND NORWICH HORTICULTURAL
SOCIETY'S SUMMER SHOW.

THIS was held at Norwich on June 25 and 26. Owing
to the sudden death a few weeks ago of the hon. secretary,
Mr C. E. Pilling, the duties were kindly undertaken
iiv Mr J. E. T. Pollard, a former hon. secretary. There
was a numerical falling off in the entries, though the
standard of exhibits was well maintained ; in fact, in
Boses and fruit it was ahead of what we have seen at
the Norwich Show for several years past. Though styled
a Rose show, the exhibits are of general character. The
premier prizes for the open Rose classes were all secured
by .Messrs. J. Burrell and Co., Cambridge. The show-
had evidentiv suited them at the critical moment, for
their blooms' had just that freshness and perfection of
shape so much desired by exhibitors. Their varieties
were right up to date as well. Messrs. F. Cant and Co.
ran them second in every case. In the amateurs' section
the executors of the late R. Steward, Saxlingham,
lieat all comers, even the Rev. J. A. L. Fellowes, a well-
known local grower, going down second to them. In
the classes generally, one could but notice the tendency
toward the yellow-tinted Hybrid Teas. This fact was
specially noticeable in the small classes. Rambler and
-arden 'Roses do not seem to display their charms and
beauties when bunched up in stands, and as a consequence
are generally passed by when the ordinary visitor goes
his rounds.

Sweet Peas are now a recognised feature at any summer
show, and a fine display was made at Norwich. In the
competitive section Mr. F. Wilby, gardener to F. A.
Bainbridge, Esq., Hethersett, won premier position
and holds a ten-guinea challenge cup presented by Messrs.
Daniels Brothers, Limited, Norwich.

There was an exceptionally good show of herbaceous
flowers For fortv-eight bunches, distinct. Mr. W.
Chettleburgh, gardener to Colonel iious, 'Worstead, was

a wi'Il-deservcd first. His collection was very compre-
hensive, and the bunches bold, yet not heavy. Mr. W.
Hilson, gardener to Sir Frederic Adair, Flixton Hall,
was first for thirty-six bunches, the colouring of many
of his subjects being most vivid. A dozen bunches of
choice varieties were staged by Mr. Frank Neave, Lingwood,
with which he secured first place in tliat class.

Carnations for competition came strongly from that
veteran exhibitor Mr. W. -Allan, Gunton Hall Gardens,
easily securing him premier position.

Exotic and greenhouse flowers were best by far from
Mr. Hilson (Sir F. .Adair's gardener). There weie many
smaller classes for cut flowers in addition to those
referred to.

Fruit was a prominent feature, and more especially
does this remark apply to the classes for Strawberries.
Mr. W. Hilson was first for a collection of fruit. Hie
Grapes had a delightful finish. Mr. W, P. Wright,
gardener to W. J. Birkbeck, Esq., Stratton. had a wonder-
ful dish of Leader Strawberries, easily first in their class,
Mr. F. J. Eudersby, gardener to J. H. Gurney, Esq..
Keswick Hall, had as good a collection of four varieties
as one could wish to see. This exhibitor was al.so first
for a scarlet-fleshed Melon with a new seedling of his own
raising. There were also classes for Peaches. Nectarines,
Cherries and Raspberries, and in each class good examples
were staged.

Jn the vegetable section Mr. W. Chettleburgh, gardener
to Colonel Rous, scored quite a phenomenal success,
winning first for a collection and the same position in
seven other classes with a strong competition. The
Cauliflowers from Mr. Endersby and from BIr. W.
Marjoram, gardener to W. T. F. Jarrold. Esq., Thorpe,
were in each case fine examples of good culture.

The trade growers made a display unequalled in the
annals of a Norwich summer show. Messrs. Daniels
Brothers. Limited. Town Close Nurseries, Norwich, had
an assorted group of plants and cut flowers from their o^vn
nursery. These were very nicely arranged and educational
from a gardening standpoint, and reflected credit upon
the firm for their high culture.

Messrs. A. J. and C. .Allen, Norwich, exhibited Roses
of all types and in all ways — pot plants, groups of cut
flowers and individually. Needless to say, they comprised
the latest and best.

Hobbies, Limited, Dereham, had a stand devoted
entirely to Roses. The feature of it was the display
of their own novelties Pink Pearl, Effective and Lemon
Queen. There were others as well in profusion.

Mr. H. Morse, Westfleld Nurseries, Eaton, and Mr,
E. Morse, Eaton Dell, Norwich, both made interesting
exhibits of Roses, embodying only the very newest and
choice sorts.

Mr. Robert Holmes. Tuckswood Farm, Norwich, had
Sweet Peas in profusion. Many of these, we noted,
were under numbers, and for one, the colour of which
we should say was orange red, he received a first-class
certificate. The visitor was able, too, to see splendid
examples of Editli Taylor, Lilian, Queen Blary and other
of his novelties.

Mr. W. J. Unwin, Histon. made a display of Sweet
Peas that opened one's eyes in wonder. Boldness of
flower, length of stem and every other desire of the
exhibitor were as they should be. We need not name any.
His own leading sorts were well to the fore, as well as
the best of those of other raisers.

Messrs. G. Stark and Son, Ryburgh, also had a display
of Sweet Peas, and mention of two must be made, viz.,
Maggie Stark and Deccrator. These are worth, a place
in e\crv collection.

Mi. G. W. Miller, Wisbech, had Orchids in pots and a
miscellaneous group of herbaceous flowers.

Messrs. Young and Co., Cheltenham, displayed such
an arrav of Carnations as one rarely sees at a provincial
show, the Quality and colours being superl).

RICHMOND FLOWER SHOW.

RCSES were the leading feature at Richmond on the
occasion of the annual flower show, held on Jime 2.^i
in the spacious Old Deer Park.

Keen interest was displayed in the large class for forty-
eight Roses, distinct, three blooms of each. Messrs.
R. Harkness and Co. were first with a grand collection,
of good quality throughout. Messrs. B. R. Cant and
Sons and Messrs. D. Prior and Son were second and third
respectively.

Messrs. W. and J. Browii were first for twelve Teas of
one variety with that lovely Rose Mme. Jules Gravereaux,
Messrs. Burch and Messrs. Prior both following with the
same variety. The blooms of the first-prize stand were,
however, somewhat overdressed.

Messrs. W. and J. Brown, Peterborough, were flist for
twentv-four Roses, distinct, three blooms of each. The
best blooms were Mme. M. Soupert, J. B. Clark and
Caroline Testout. This proved a well-contested class,
the second and third prizes going to Messrs. G. and W. H.
Burch, Peterborough, and Messrs. R, Hark-ness and
Co., Hitchin.

For twelve blooms of one variety, Messrs. G. and W. H.
Burch led the van with a grand box of Lyon Rose, followed
by Messrs. R. Harkness and Co. with Mrs John Laing,
and Messrs. D. Prior and Son with Bessie Blown.

The Rev. L. E. Chalmers Hunt, Letchworth, was fiist
for twenty-four blooms, distinct (am.ateurs only). His
blooms of J. B. Clark. Avoca and Mildred Grant were
perfect. The Rev. J. H. Pemberton, Havering-atte-
Bower, was placed second with a heavier set of blooms
of almost, if not quite, equal quality.

Messrs. G. Jackman and Son. Woking, also had a fine
group of Roses, in which Mme. Ravary. Dean Hole and
Le Progrds were shown in great form.

i^fevi.

mm"^-

GARDEN.

*M^

-7^^

3^.^^&

No. 2173.— Vol. LXXVII.

July 12, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes of the Week 345

Correspondence
Ad interesting old

Rose

Silver-leaf di^^ease in

Apple trees . .
Scentless Musk
Richardia Mrs.

Roosevelt . .
Where to grow

Arenariabalearica

346

346
347

forthcoming events . .

Rose Garden
The summer pruning

of Roses
Standard Roses and

insect pests. .

In the Herb Garden

Flower Garden
The blue - flowered

Poppy

Seasonable notes on

Carnations . ,
Some good summer

flowers

Watering Sweet Peas

Trees and Shrubs
The Flowering Bram-
bles

317
347

347
347

348
348

349
349

350

GREENHOrSE

Summer treatment

of the Amaryllis 350
Libonia floribunda 351
Rock and Water Garden
The Alpine Poppy . . 35 1
A charming associa-
tion of ' alpine

flowers 351

New and Rare

PLANTS 352

A grand wall shrub . . 352
Gardening for Beginners
How to propagate
Roses by summer
cuttings . . . . 353
How to grow good
late Turnips . . 35::
Gardening of the Weei;
For Southern gar-
dens 354

For Northern gar-
dens 354

ANSWERS TO Corre-
spondents
Flower garden
Rose garden . .
Greenhouse . .
Miscellaneous

Societies . .

355
355
355
355
355

IliLUSTRATIONS.

U use Queen Mary :I46

The blue-flowered Poppy 348

A beautiful grouping of Iris Ksempferi Morning Mist 349

Flowering sprays of the Thornless Bramble . . . . 350
PotentiUa grandiflora and Erinus alpinus flowering

in the rock garden 351

k beautiful new hybrid Orchid, Mittonia Sanderse.. 352

How to propagate Roses by summer cuttings . . . . 353

Rose Mrs. Ambrose Ricardo 355

BDITORIAti NOTICBS.

. Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes.
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he mill endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
a^ks thai the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated icith.

The Editor urill not he responsible far the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as\aeceptance.

fees,: 20, Tavi^eJe Street, CoverU Garden, If.O'.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Alteration of Date of London Daffodil Show.

We .Tre utficiallv informed that the R"yal Horti-
cultural Society's 1914 Daffodil Show will be held
on Wednesday and Thursday, .\pril 15 and 16.
and not nn .\pril 21 .and 22 as previously officially
notified. .

Border Pink Nellie. — .\ good companion to
Pink Mrs. Sinkins will be found in the variety
Nellie, the deep fringe of the petals being white
and in some flowers slightly suffused with violet,
the central portion being distinctly blotched
with a rich purple or purple maroon colour. The
habit of the plant is dwarf and compact. It is
very free-flowering and delightfully fragrant.

Propagating Campanulas. — The present is a

good time to propagate by cuttings most of the
alpine Campanulas. Some of them bloom so
profusely that there is a difficulty in getting cut-
tings from them. When selecting cuttings, prefer-
ence should be given to those exposed to full light.
Use pots of sandy soil and place in a close, shaded
frame tUl rooted. The following are all desirable
varieties : Carpatica Little Gem, c. liiverslea,
muralis, turbinata, with its varieties Isabel, grandi-
flora and alba ; and pusilla and its varieties
pallida and Miss Willraott.

The Lyon Rose. — Is this beautiful though
indescribable Rose improving with age ? We
are tempted to ask this question after seeing the
many glorious examples of it last week at the
great London show, and also in many gardens
that we have visited. The flowers seem to be
of a richer coppery shrimp pink colour than ever,
while in form they also appear to have gained
some points. If only it would hold up its head
better in the garden ana give us flowers as good
as it has done this year, this Rose would claim a
first place in our estimation .is a garden variety.

Pruning Climbing Roses.— A few of the earliest
flowering varieties are over, and those that are
not likely to produce a second crop of bloom,
such as Tea Rambler, Polyantha simplex and
Carmine Pillar, may have the old flowering wood
cut out, thus giving the young growth every chance
of developing properly. This early pruning may
not commend itself to those who like to see their
arches and pillars well clothed all the summer,
but the results obtained from such treatment
are good enough to warrant it being done, and
it is really astonishing how quickly the young
growths develop.

Campanula pusilla Miss Willmott. — Possibh
no indi\'idual plant attracted more attention at
the recent Holland House Show than this charming
Bellflower. In colour the flowers are of a beautiful
silvery blue, and are home in wild profusion.
So popular has this Campanula become th.at no
rock garden can be considered complete without
it. A specialist in alpines was recently heard to

remark that this distinct variety is the most sale-
able of all alpines, and yet it has never been granted
even an aw<ard of merit by the Royal Horticultural
Sfjciety.

A Useful Hardy Flower for Cutting.— In the

modem craze for novelties the merits of many of
our older garden flowers are in danger of being
overlooked. This was brought vividly to mind
a few days ago when we saw some old Cornish
pitchers daintily filled with the Goat's Rue, Galega
officinalis. Few hardy flowers could, with so
little trouble, be induced to give such a charming
effect, the clusters of sky blue. Pea-shaped fl-owers,
with the dainty green pinnate foliage, lending
themselves well to artistic arrangemont. This
plant is very easy to grow, and will give armfuls
of beautiful flowers and foliage for a slight outlav
of trouble.

A Beautiful Evening Primrose. — .\mnug her-
baceous plants which are flowering at the present
time, few are more attractive than the charming
little Evening Primrose known as CEnothera
fruticosa Youngii. It makes an erect and neat
plant from 2J feet to 3 feet high, the columnar
stems being for some weeks well furnished with
brilliant golden yellow blossoms. The buds are
enclosed in a sheath of orange scarlet hue, and
this, combined with the bright yellow of the fully-
opened flowers, adds to the charm of the plant.
Unlike the common Evening Primrose, CEnothera
biennis, the flowers of Yotmgii remain open all
day. It is a perennial plant, and one worthy of
inclusion in any garden.

Mendel's Law and Variation in Plant-Life. —

Dr. H. F. Osbom, writing in the current issue of
the Orchid Review, says : " The brilliant progress
in heredity of the last nine years, beginning in
1903 with the rediscovery of Mendel's law. should
not blind us to the four broad inductions from
paleontology, that transformation is a matter of
thousands or himdreds of thousands of years,
that to the living observer all living things may
be delusively stationary, that invisible tides of
genetic change may be setting in one direction or
another observable only over very long periods of
time, that discontinuous mutations or saltations
may be mere ripples on the surface of these tides."

The Great Rose Show. — The immense strides
that have been made in the evolution of the Rose
were well demonstrated at the great London show
held imder the auspices of the National Rose
Society on Friday of last week. Perhaps it is in
what are termed garden Roses that the greatest
advance has been made, and it speaks volumes for
the acumen of the Council in providing special classes
for these a few years ago. The most charming
features of this record show were these decorative
Roses in baskets and in vases, though to the ex-
hibitor the large single blooms in vases naturally
appealed most strongly. A report of the show,
I together with a description of the new Roses that
I gained awards, will be foimd on another page

M6

THE GARDEN.

[July 12, 191;

CORRESPONDENCE.

ITfu' Editor !S luj responsible for the upiiiioiis
expressed hy correspnudents.)

An Interesting Old Rose. — I am sending the

cndoseLl Rose to ask if you can tell me its name.
It is from a very old tree, and in general provvth
and appeanmce resembles the common Maiden's
Blush, but when fully open the flowers are pure
white. It is locally called the Ointment Rose,
as its peta's are used for that purpose by country
housewives in this neighbourhood. It is scarcely
ever attacked by any insect or blight, and is never
either pruned or manured. It flowers profusely
every summer7(wet or fine), and
appears to me to be vastly
superior to the majority of modem
rambling Roses. — Anne Amateur,
Lindfield, Sussex. [The Rose is
one of the varieties of Rosa alba
named Blanche Belgique. It is a
very good old variety, but not
much grown now. — Ed.]

Rosa sinica Anemone. — The

short note on page 340 of last
week's issue by no means over-
praises this beautiful but rather
tender Rose. It is one of the
earliest to open and thoroughly
distinct in colour. I would like to
call attention to the newer hybrid
of this, named Mrs. A. Kingsmill.
Unlike the type, this is a dwarf
grower, has the additional merit ot
lieing perpetual blooming, and
is particularly good during late
autumn. Curiously enough, it also
differs by having the lovely shad-
ings of the type reversed, these
being on the upper instead of the
imder surface of the petals. The
raisers, Messrs. George Paul and
Son, note that the exhausted
flowers of this variety should he
prnniptly removed as an aid to its
better growth. — A. P.

Silver-Leaf Disease in Apple
Trees. — Your correspondent Mr.
E. Molyneux on page 322, issue
June 28, gives readers some in-
formation about the silver-leaf
disease of fruit trees which is
startling. Both Plums, Peaches
and Nectarines have been from
time to time affected by this disease,
but I have never heard of Apple
trees suffering from it. If, how-
ever, Mr. Molyneux's remedy
proves quite successful, he will
have rendered a good service
to fruit-growers. In my own case I
Peaches and Nectarines affected,
remedies applied failed, the trees being finally
uprooted, as fresh branches were diseased every
year. The trees were grown on an old nursery
site, and I was told that silver-leaf was more pre-
valent when the trees were grown in such soil than
when grown in newly-broken ground. I have never
seen the whole of a tree diseased in one season,
only odd branches, the others being quite sound
and healthy. — B.

The Japanese Iris. — May I enter a protest
against the note on "The Japanese Iris" on
P^g"" 3.17 of last week's issue? Iris laevigata .is

a totally distinct species from I. Ksempferi, from
which all the so-called Japanese hybrids have
arisen. Both species grow, apparently in proximity,
in the Amur district of Manchuria, but they are
easily differentiated by the fact that Ihe leaves
ot 1. Ktempferi have a distinct midrib, while those
of I. Iffivigata are smooth. The capsules and seeds
are also very different. I. hfvigata is still a very
rare plant, although a quasi-albino form of it has
long been known under the name of I. albo-purpurea.
The typical plant has an unbranehed stem and a
head of three or four flowers, which open in succes-
sion. The colour is an intense blue-purple, and
in its best forms this Iris is, to my mind, the best
of all blue-flowered Irises. I have this year had a

ROSE QUEEN MARY, AWARDED A GOLD MEDAL AT THE NATIONAL
ROSE society's EXHIBITION. SHOWN BY MESSRS. ALEX.
DICKSON AND SONS, LIMITED. {See page V.)

have
and

had
all

number of seedling plants in flower, which siiowed
very little variation except in the exact shade
of blue. Colour alone cannot, of course, be relied
upon as a specific character ; but, so far as I have
been able to discover, wild 1. Ksmpferi is always
of a red-purple colour. — W. R. Dykes.

Worms in Lawns, — With further reference
to the subject of worms in lawns, I should like to
give you a few particulars of my experience as
an ordinary amateur in this direction. I generally
happened to have lived in districts where the soil
is heavy, and I have come to the conclusion that
it is a great mistake to destroy the worms and also
to roll a lawn frequently, as excessive water does

not drain away quickly enough and, consequently
the lawn remains very soft, more especially if
it should happen to be a slightly sunk one. I
have experienced very little trouble with the casts
since I have used sand (obtained from the road),
which I sprinkle over the lawn very thinly at
intervals from autumn to spring, according to the
wetness of the weather. This prevents the casts
sticking and they are more easily distributed,
and even if they are trodden on, the grass easily
pushes up again, as the sand prevents caking.
I have discarded the use of all artificials, as 1 find
I get better results in the long run by using a
mixture of fine loam, rotted manure and leaf-soil
spread over very thinly in the autumn and agaui
m early sprmg. It is astonish-
ing how quickly these dressings are
absorbed when the worms are
allowed free play, and when the
lawn is quite clear I dust it over
with slaked lime, in which I am,
from experience, a strong believer,
particularly in soil? of this nature,
although I am told it encourages
i.lover. However, I am not
troubled with this, possibly on
account of the dressings of sand.
1 have also found that the grass
keeps in better condition during a
period of drought under this
treatment — H R Whistler

The Parrot's Bill in Scotland.

Clianthus puniceus, the Parrot's
Bill, is one of the shrubs which
are but seldom found in the open in
Scotland, but that it can be grown
successfully in specially favoured
gardens is evident by the good
plant which is on one of the
terrace walls of Culzean Castle,
Ayrshire, the seat of the Marquis
of Ailsa. Here it stands the winter
well and flowers on a southern
aspect. It covers a considerable
space, and is highly decorative
with its pretty foliage and its
racemes of brilliant scarlet flowers.
At Culzean it does not appear to
call for any protection, but the
position is a very sheltered one
and its proximity to the sea tempers
the winters greatly. — S. Arnott.

A Fine Magnolia. — Till within

a recent period the only hardy
Magnolia of an evergreen character '
in our gardens was Magnolia
grandiflora, from the Southern
United States of North America.
A second evergreen species has,
however, now come prominently for-
ward in Magnolia Delavayi, which
first-class certificate at the Holland
House Show on July i. Although so many of the
Magnolias now in our gardens are of Asiatic origin,
they were all deciduous until the advent of M.
Delavayi. This species was named in compliment
to P^re Delavay, who first discovered it in Central
China. It was afterwards found by Dr. Henry
iind Mr. E. H. Wilson, the last named of whom
introduced it to cultivation in Messrs. Veitch's
nursery at Coombe Wood. It forms a bold-growing
specimen, clothed with large, leathery leaves,
supported by rather long stalks. These leaves are
deep green above and whitish beneath. The flowers
are large, egg-shaped and creamy white. — H. P.

was given

July 12, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

347

Scentless Musk. — In reference to your note on
this subject in The Garden for June 21,
I beg to say that it was noticed here several years
ago that the common Musk (Mimulus moschatus)
was devoid of scent. Since that fact was noticed
I fear the old-time favourite has been looked upon
as a negligible quantity here, a few odd clumps
being allowed to grow at their own sweet will.
On reading your note on the subject, however,
three of us tried the powers of our olfactory nerye
on the plants, but all to no purpose. I have just
read the interesting and suggestive letter over
the signature " Victoria Slade " in June 28 issue,
and shall hope to see other testimonies on the
subject. — Charles Comfort, Broomfield, Mid-
lothian.

Richardia Mrs. Roosevelt. — This Richardia,

which f irmca the subject of a coloured plate
in The Garden for June 21, can at the present
day hardly be regarded in the light of a novelty,
although it is in every way a thoroughly good
garden plant. Undoubtedly it would be more
popular than it is were the spathes of a cleai.
decided yellow colour. It was shown by the late
Mr. Amos Perry of Enfield (whose recent death
we all deplore) at the Holland House Show of ii)o6.
when an award of merit was bestowed upon it
by the floral committee of the Royal Hortirultura)
Society. At th.nt time it was said to be the result
of a cross between Richardia hastata and R. albi>-
maculata. This is probably correct, though the
hybrid form is more vigorous than either of its
parents. — H. P.

Where to Grow Arenaria balearica. — Some
may be misled by the remark on page 314, issue
June 21, that this prettiest of very dwarf rock
plants is best grown on northern exposures.
It grows here like a weed on the face of brick walls
facing due south, and on a newly-made rockery
it is already taking possession of whinstone and
sandstone alike. To show how climate affects
this plant, I may add that though it comes up
on south-aspected walls in a manner that proves
it thoroughly enjoys these places, I do not recollect
an instance of its establishing, or even trying to
establish, itself in a shaded position or on a northern
aspect. It may not be known that it forms an
admirable carpeting plant for bulbs in vases,
and I constantly make use of it for that purpose
when Hyacinths and Tulips are transferred to these
in spring. It is an exceedingly happy-go-lucky
plant, and never resents removal, while the tiniest
piece, like some of the wee Sedums, takes hold and
establishes colonies in most unexpected positions. —
R. P. Brotherston, Prestonkirk, N.B.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

July 14. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society Meeting.

July 15. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhi-
bition. National Rose Society's Show at
Gloucester. Southampton Carnation and Summer
Show.

July 16. — Flower Shows at Caterham, Uxbridge,
Bishop's Waltham, Reigate, and Perry Barr,
Birmingham. Nottinghamshire Horticultural and
Botanical Show (two days).

July 17. — National Sweet Pea Society's Show at
Vincent Square. Dunfermline Rose Show (two
days). Dulwich Flower Show.

July 18. — National Carnation and Picotee Show
at Vincent Square. North Lonsdale Rose Show.
Birmingham Floral F^te (two days).
July IQ. — Blackbuni Flower Show.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

THE SUMMER PRUNING OF ROSES.

BY the end of July almost the whole of
our ramblers and climbers from the
Polyantha. Ayrshire, Boursault and
hybrid wichuraiana sections will have
finished flowering ; and as the majority
of these only bloom once, and then
produce their best display from the ripened wood
of the previous season, more particularly upon
those long maiden shoots so characteristic of this
class of Rose, some little attention is necessary
towards securing a quantity of such wood in the
best possible condition ; and it is by a judicious
use of the pruning-knife after their flowering is
over that this desire can be best obtained. Cut
away as much of the older wood as possible,
encouraging long growths from as near the base
of the plants as you can. Do not fear to thoroughly
thin out the centres of bushes and weeping stan-
dards, and be firm in the removal of any growths
with the slightest tendency to deterioration.
This last is of more importance than many
apparently imagine, as it has undoubtedly a
tendency to develop that peculiar canker and
constriction of bark so often found upon many of
our strongest growers. A less quantity of young
wood, and that properly developed, will always
prove more serviceable than a mass of inferior
growth, and perhaps never more so than when
cultivating this class of Rose.

Some little discretion should be exercised when
dealing with our climbers and ramblers that afford
later blooms or a short run of a few occasional
flowers after their first glut. I would leave some
of the best laterals upon these and prune theni
away during the general pruning of next spring ;
otherwise one sacrifices a number of useful flowers
from varieties of '.he William Allen Richardson,
Reve d'Or, Climbing Perle des Jardins, L'Ideal
and Mine. Pierre Cochet class. There are also a
few of the hybrid wichuraianas that provide quite
a useful lot of autumn flowers upon the best of
their late summer laterals. Alberic Barbier,
Alice Garnier, Elsie and the newer variety Sylvia
are examples, while the beautiful small single
white wichuraiana alba, the t\'pe or species from
which this section of ramblers originated, may
be left entirely free of the knife, merely thinning
out the spray growths that have flowered when
doing the usual spring trimming, as almost all
of such laterals will continue to carry trusses
of flowers and highly-coloured berries until long
after the frosts have stopped the majority of
Rose blooms.

Some of our vigorous Hybrid Perpetuals, too,
may feel the knife to advantage after their chief
flowering is over. I am alluding to such as Mme.
Gabriel Luizet and Margaret Dickson, which seldom
bear more than one good crop during the summer,
and this upon the best-matured rods of the previous
vear. A. P.

STANDARD ROSES AND INSECT
PESTS.

[/n Reply to a Correspondent.]
We think there is a great deal in the observation
you make regarding the comparative immunity of
blight upon standard Roses as compared with
bushes, and it would be interesting to hear the
experience of other readers on the subject. One
reason for this immunity is that the elevation from
the ground-line prevents the insects hibernating in

the soil to a great extent, and another that birds
during their nesting season can more readily dear
tlie trees. If one could ascertain the number of
aphides a single pair of sparrows will devour in a
day, we should not be so ready to condemn this
little despised bird. Our correspondent asks for tlie
names of Roses that make good standards. We
cannot publish a long list, but name the following
as being specially suitable for this form of growth :
Caroline Testout, Frau Karl Druschki, Gustav
Griinerwald, Hugh Dickson, J. B. Clark, Joseph
Hill, Killarney, Lady Ashtown, Lyon Rose,
La Tosca, Mme. Leon Pain, White Maman Cochet,
Edward Mawley, James Coey, Countess of Shaftes-
bury, Souvenir de Gustave Prat, Sunburst, Mrs.
Herbert Stevens, British Queen, Griiss an Teplitz,
Lady Roberts, Mme. .Antoine Mari, Mme. Abel
Chatenay, Mme. Jean Dupuy, Mme. Ravary, Prince
de Bulgarie. William Allen Richardson, Alister
Stella Gray, Sar.ih Bernhardt, General Macarthur,
Gloire de Dijon, Gustave Regis, Mrs. George
Shawyer, La France, La France de '8g, Laurent
Carle, Mme. Hoste, Mme. Isaac Pereire, Mme.
Melanie Soupert, Mme. Wagram. Margaret Dickson,
Mrs. John Laing, Mrs. Stewart Clark, Paula,
Peace, Prince C, de Rohan, Richmond. Souvenir
do S. A. Prince, Ulrich Brunner, Viscountess
Folkestone, Mrs. A. Mimt, Mrs. H. Brocklebank,
Chateau de Clos Vougeot, Arthur R Goodwin,
Juliet, Betty, Countess of Derby, Florence H.
Veitch, George Dickson, Lady Pirrie, Lady Greenall,
Melody, Lieutenant Chaure, Marquise de Ganay,
Mme. Segond Weber, Countess of Ilchester.
I'harisaer, Walter Speed, Harry Kirk and Molly
Sharman Crawford,

IN THE HERB GARDEN.

COMPARED with people who grow
Roses or Orchids or rock plants or
Carnations, how few there are who
pay any attention to herbs ! Yet
no plants are more interesting and
nothing can be more dehghtful than
a garden of herbs when properly designed and
taken care of. Unless a fairly favourable spot
IS given up to them, the full pleasure of such a
garden cannot be tasted. Wherever circum-
stances make it possible, some enclosure separated
liy hedge or bank or fence from the garden proper
should be set apart. In it will be found a sense
of rest and healing elsewhere unknown besides a
sweetness that is strangely refreshing. Unlike
the garden flowers, herbs are what Sir Francis
Bacon calls " fast of their smells." If you want
to savour them, you must ask for them. Just a
touch suffices or the merest brushing of the
hem of one's garment as one passes — then the
Thymes, the Mints and all the other herbs will
show what they are made of.

My own herb garden, though I would not be
vain about it and I confess that it is much too
small to please me, is a source of interest not only
to myself, but to all kinds of people. And why ?
Because it appeals to so many different sorts of
tastes and fancies.

First, the cooks. I put them first because in
a herb garden it is well to be practical. Why do
cooks like it ? That is soon told. Because they
find in it so much that improves their soups and
salads. In the spring and early summer when
the herbs are fresh they are at their very best,
and it is such a pity that present-day cooks are
accustomed to find little else in the kitchen garden

348

THE GARDEN.

[July 12, 1913.

besides Parsley, Mint and Sage. All gardens
have these, we must suppose ; but why stop there ?
Why not grow Sweet Marjoram, Curled Chervil,
Tarragon, Savory, and both the common and the
Lemon Thymes ? All these have pleasant and useful
flavours. Winter Savory is a perennial, and the
young spring shoots are beautifully tender. Later
on in the season, however. Summer Savory (an
annual) is better, as it is less woody. Marjoram
for its sweetness and the Savories for their
warm spicy taste are very popular in the
kitchen. For different reasons so are Chervil
and I emon Thyme. Tarragon and Basil are
more fnr occasional than for everyday use.

Church people — indeed, all
Bible-lovers — seem never tired ol
seeing such herbs as Myrrh and
Hyssop, known so well to them
by name. Myrrhis odorata, also
called Sweet Cicely, has umbels
of charming white flowers, which
bloom profusely in the month
oi May. Hyssop (blue-flowered,
a bushy, handsome plant) is still
used in the Roman form of con-
secration. Coriander seeds, per-
fectly round, with a hot, sweet
taste, were compared in appear-
ance to the manna rained down
from Heaven to feed the Israelites.
They are now used to flavour curries
and in making sugar plums.

Antiquarians and people who
delight in legendary lore cannot be
got out of the herb garden once
they are in it ! What with old
associations and magic, there is no
end to their stories. St. John's
Wort is one of the amazing
plants. If you pull a sprig of it
on Midsummer (St. John's) Eve,
a fairy horse will spring up from
the ground and fly round the
world with you before you know
where you are. Vervain, which
grew at the foot of the Cross,
was never gathered by the faithful
without a certain prayer being
breathed over it. The plant was
full of virtue.

Doctors, of course, are inter-
ested in seeing the herbs alive
and growing, which, as a rule,
they only think of when they
write prescriptions — Peppermint,
for instance, and Dill for
fractious babies : Wormwood for
bitters ; Mallow, Mullein and
Elecampane for coughs , Marigold THE BLUE-
for sprains ; Valerian for nerves ;
and Chamomile as a stomachic.
" A trifle of the herb called dandelion," it may
be remembered, gave a smartness to Betsy Prig's
famous salad. This lierb is still in tlic British
Pharmacopoeia.

The day for home-made scents is over, so there
is no demand now for Lavender, Rosemary, Bee
Balm, Bergamot, or Sweet Woodruff to brew
" sweete waters." Most of us like to have these
in our flower gardens, all the same, to enjoy their
Iragranre. but it is to the herb garden they properly
belong.

Much more might be said about the pleasantness
and usefulness of the herb garden, but this is enough
at one time. Frances A. Bardswell.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

THE BLUE FLOWERED POPPY.

(Meconopsis Wallichii.)

THIS is undoubtedly one of the finest
of the Poppyworts in cultivation.
It is an extremely handsome her-
baceous biennial, and is remarkable
as being one of the few, if not
the only, truly blue-flowered Poppy
in cultivation at the present time. It attains
a height of from 4 feet to 7 feet, and forms
a perfect pyramid. It is exceedinglv beautiful

FLOWERED POPPY, MECONOPSIS WALLICHII, A
PLANT FOR A SHADY CORNER.

I when in full flower. The blossoms are about three
inches in diameter, broadly saucer-shaped, pendent
and of a lovely shade of blue. The blooms always
commence to open first at the summit of the stem,
then gradually from day to day expand until the

! lowest and last bud is reached.

' Although, as a rule, not more than about twenty

1 flowers are fully open at one time, there is something
particularly attractive about M. Wallichii in full
bloom that fascinates plant-lovers. Its curious,
deeply-cut leaves, the conspicuous, long, red,
bristle-like hairs and the general habit all tend to
mark it out among its fellows for special attention.
It was first discovered in Sikkim by Sir J. D.

Hooker, and seeds forwarded to Kew bloomed
there in the summer of 1852. It forms a rosette
of large leaves from i foot to 18 inches in length,
deeply cut and very brittle, and is a plant that
requires a specially-prepared site to grow well.
In a peat bed, under the shade of a large
Bamboo, as near an imitation of its natural habitat
is obtained as is possible in this country. It requires
shade, and seems to do best where it can have no
chance of seeing the sun at all.

It is unfortunate that, after all its beauty and
interest, the plant should die entirely away when
the flowering is over, and seed should therefore be
sown every year. To obtain the fullest develop-
ment in these plants, seeds should
be sown early in the year, say in
February or March, the latter date
being quite early enough where
warmth can be had for the seed-
pan. An important point is that
of growing on the seedlings briskly
from the first, as a check at any
of the early stages prior to planting
out is calculated to do serious
mischief. From the seed-pan the
young plants should be potted
into equal parts of loam and sandy
peat in pots 4 inches across,
transferring them to their per-
manent positions as soon as the
roots reach the side of the pot.
To delay planting out is to court
failure, as the pyramid of blossom
in the year ensuing will be in pro-
portion to the development of the
plant in the first year. A dozen
to twenty plants should be placed
in an irregular group at about
eighteen inches apart. These,
when in full flower, will provide
a glorious sight. There is a good
deal of difference in the colour of
the flowers, and a good strain
should be selected. The varieties
fusco-purpurea and purpurea are
not so desirable as the type, as the
blossoms are dull in colour.

Wyndham Fitzhereert.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON
CARNATIONS.

Propagation. — There are no

plants easier to increase than these,

and the result can be achieved by

cuttings, seeds, or layers. Of

the three the last named is by

tar the most generally satisfactory,

BEAUTIFUL because with reasonable c.ire

failure is an impossibility and one

knows that the variety will be

perpetuated. The same desirable result is, of

course, secured when cuttings are rooted ; hut,

unless a man is exceptionally fortunate or skilful, it

is certain that the proportion of losses will be

considerable. The raising of seedlings is full of

interest, and should be done in all gardens each

season, since plants of remarkable vigour and

floriferousness are thus procured, and now and

again one of superb quality is found that is in all

respects worthy of perpetuation by layering. The

disadvantage of seedlings is that one never knows

what one will get, and amateurs, as a rule, do not

care to live in such a world of uncertainty. Seeds

can be sown out of doors now on a, border of light

July 12, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

349

soil, and the resultant plants will, with proper
care, iilooni next year.

Layering. — However, the subject of the moment
is how best to proceed in layering. Fortunately,
the details are simple, and well within the reach
of every amateur in the country. The first step
is to erect a mound of soil round the plant to be
increased. The compost should comprise leaf-
soil or refuse manure and sand in addition to the
ordinary soil of the garden, and it ought to be
built up to such a height that the fixing of the
layers will be facilitated. The next point with
which to deal is that of suitable shoots. This
presents no difficulties, since any growth that
shows neither signs of disease nor flower answers
admirably. From the lower portion a few leaves
must be stripped, and the essential cut should be
made with a very sharp knife. Lift the growth
carefully, insert the knife underneath, and draw
it upwards and outwards through at least one
joint — usually a length of i inch will suffice. This
done, the cut should be so pegged
down to the mound prepared that
the tongue is kept wide open. To
ensure this, many people insert a
small stone ; but this is not really
necessary, as the soil will answer the
same purpose if the work is done
correctly. The one thing further that
is needed to encourage rooting is
pleasant and equable moistness, and
in normal seasons this is easily
secured by the judicious application
of water. To attach the layers to
the mound, pegs of any convenient
kind can be utilised. Those of Bracken
Fern are excellent, if procurable, and
specially-made pins are purchasable
from seed merchants and nursery-
men at reasonable prices. It may
be well to caution the tyro against
making the cut so low down
on the shoot as to reach the woody
portion, as this usually ends in
failure.

Tying and Staking. — Witli the
plants practically at their best, it
is of the utmost importance that no
detail that will go to the full reward
of past labours shall be overlooked.
If the flower-stems are allowed to
lie about in all directions, the
blooms will not come to perfection,
and those that do develop to a
fair state of beauty will not show off their
charms. Therefore careful staking and tying
are imperative. Avoid the use of heavy sticks
and thick strands of tying material, as they
are unsightly ; but attach each stem in a ligature
that will support it adequately without creating
the smallest suspicion of stiffness. As with pins
for layering, so with supports. Special ones are
procurable from the leading dealers, which admir-
ably answer the purpose for which they are
intended.

Watering and Hoeing. — The glorious uncer-
tainty of the climate of our beautiful country
makes it impossible for one to say whether it will
be necessary to water the plants or not ; the
decision must rest with the cultivator. If the
soil is dry, give water to maintain it in a state of
moistness ; if it is wet, leave the water-pot alone.
The value of hoeing is undisputed. Whenever
the surface is so dry that the blade of the tool
will pass freely through it, use the hoe ; or if it

is feared that injury will be done with that tool,
open up the top with a small fork or a bluntly-
pointed stick. J. H.

SOME GOOD SUMMER FLOWERS.

A CHARMING gathering of flowers lately received
from Messrs. Bunyard of the Royal Nurseries,
Maidstone, is a pleasant reminder, to one who is
now only rarely able to visit nurseries and private
gardens, of the advance that is being made in the
varieties of some of our best summer flowers.
Of these, Irises and Delphiniums, Heucheras,
Poppies and Pinks all show variations in some
desirable direction. Among those received the
following are noteworthy flowers of rare beauty :
Iris Mrs. Reuthe is a large and lovely flower of a
pale delicate tint, apparently within the pallidas ;
Delphinium Mrs. Creighton, a very striking bloom,
blending blue and rosy purple in a strong metallic
sheen ; Persimmon, a flower of loveliest pale blue ;
Queen Wilhelmina, palest blue, flushed with light

No flowers have gained more of late years than
the Oriental Poppies. It must have been twelve
years ago when I first saw a collection of blooms —
I think from Messrs. Godfrey of Exmouth, of
orange and pink colourings, some of them already
inclining to a salmon tint. More recently we have
had the admirable Mrs. Perry, of apricot colouring,
followed by the still more beautiful Jeannie Mawson.
Wlien one sees a well-bloomed patch of this wonder-
ful flower, one thinks that beautiful development
of the Oriental Poppy can go no further. Now
Messrs. Bunyard send a charming little flower
named Princess Ena, much like a miniature Jeannie
Mawson, also a splendid scarlet, Hesperia, and a
very dark claret-coloured bloom called Mahoney.
For amateurs who have space to spare, nothing
is easier or more interesting than the raising of
these Poppies from seed. Quite twenty years ago I
sowed the seed of a single pod of Papaver orientale
bracteatura. It was at a time when there was
some discussion in the horticultural Press as to

BE.^UTIKUL GROUPING OF IRIS K^MPFERI MORNING MIST .ARRANGED BY MESSRS. R. WALLACE
AND CO. AT THE HOLLAND HOUSE SHOW LAST WEEK. {See page _S52.)

rosy lilac ; Miranda, palest mauve lavender ;
Cymbeline, brilliant middle blue ; Lorenzo, a
massive spike of darkest blue. These flowers,
all of the solid type, with well-filled spike, bring
to mind other good Delphiniums, of which, for
ordinary garden use, nothing is more desirable
than those so easily grown from seed labelled
Belladonna. The resulting plants are not exactly
the old and excellent Belladonna, with its wonder-
fully pure, rather light blue colomring. They
have lost the dwarf stature and general air of
distinction, but have gained in constitution and
are of a habit intermediate between true Belladonna
and the taller kinds. They have the Belladonna
character of a loose, open spike, and are no doubt
near relations of that good old sort — precious
plants to have so easily, for I believe the true old
kind rarely, if ever, forms seed.

Of the Pyrethrums from Messrs. Bunyard, two,
especially, are of great beauty — Queen Mary (flesh
pink) and Ivonne Cayeaux {a fine white).

the identity of bracteatuni with the ordinary
orientale. I had a large crop of seedlings, many
of them producing flowers of great size and beauty.
They varied in colour from a very deep scarlet,
like that of the usual bracteatum. to a bright,
light scarlet of the colour of red-lead paint. But
among the whole lot there was not a single plant
that could be classed as bracteatum, with the
dark, distinct foliage and stiii. upright flower-
stem. It was proof enough that the name
bracteatum has no botanical value. G. Jekvll.

WATERING SWEET PEAS.

There is a great difference of opinion as to the
value of watering Sweet Peas during dry weather,
but we think all good growers are agreed that a
light overhead syringing or hosing with clear water
during the evenings of hot days is beneficial to the
plants. This not only washes away dust and
other injurious accumulations, but puts a decided
check to the ravages of insects.

350

THE GARDEN.

[July 12, 1913.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

THE FLOWERING BRAMBLES.

THE genus Rubiis is very rich in the
number of species, but, compara-
tively speaking, few of them may be
described as good garden plants. A
list of the best twelve would about
exhaust the number of those worthy
of general cultivation. These for garden pur-
puses may be readily divided into three groups,
t'.g., those worth growing for the flowers ; a
few with ornamental foliage, including two or
three evergreens ; and several with
attractive stems, which are seen
at their best in winter when devoid
of leaves. The best of the flower-
ing Brambles or Raspberries are
three North American species —
Kubus deliciosus (illustrated), R.
odoratus aitd R. nutkanus. To
these may be added two double
forms of t>ur hedgerow Brambles.

Rubus deliciosus. — This is a

liardy shrub 4 feet to 6 feet, occa-
sionally more, in height. It is a
native of the Rocky Mountains,
and was introduced by the late
Mr. Anderson Henry of Edinburgh
ill 1870, though it was known and
named from dried specimens fifty
years earlier. The leaves and
growth of the bushes suggest a
Currant bush rather than a
Bramble, and it has neither
spines nor thorns. The flowering
season is May, extending into June.
The blooms are white, resembling
a single Rose, 2 inches or more in
diameter. There are, unfortunately,
two forms in commerce, one hav-
ing much smaller and inferior
flowers than the one illustrated.
A rich sandy loam suits the plant
best, but it will thrive in most good
garden soils. Though a perfectly
liardy shrub, R. deliciosus should
he. given a warm, sunny spot in
the garden to obtain the full beautv
of the bushes ; in fact, in cold dis-
tricts it is worth a place on a
svmny south wall. The usual
method of propagation is by
layering, as cuttings do not root
readily. During a favourable sum-
mer the plants sometimes produce
fruits, when seeds are available as
a second means of propagation.
The name "deliciosus" was given
to the plant presumably to describe
the flavour of the fruit, but the
traveller when he discovered the
fruits of R. deliciosus must have been very
weary and thirsty to describe them as delicious.
The fruits of our hedgerow Blackberries are far
preferable.

R. odoratus. — This is a very old introduction
from North America, and is figured in one of the
earlier volumes of the Botanical Magazine, t. 323.
It is vigorous and free in growth, sending up strong
canes annually to a height of 6 feet to 7 feet, like
the garden Raspberry. The suckers spread rapidly
in the surrounding ground in most soils, soon
forming large clumps or groups. The flowering
stems should be cut down to the ground in autumn,

leaving only the yomig, vigorous shoots. The Bramble is R. thyrsoideus Sore pleno, the nursery
largest of the handsome leaves measure ro niches name R. (ruticosus flore albo pleno. The most

to I foot acnjss. The rosy purple flowers exceed
two inches in diameter, and are borne in succession
from early June to September. The Purple-
flowering Raspberry, to use the common name,
is a valuable plant for shrubbery borders in large
and small gardens. The suckers, which, as before
mentioned, push up freely, form a ready means
of increase, and the plants will thrive in most
soils in sun and shade.

Pi. nutkanus. — This species, from the fact
that it was first discovered growing in the Nootka

important recommendation possessed by both
these plants is that they do not flower till late
summer and autumn, when most of our hardy
shrubs are over.

Being of loose, rambling habit, to all intents
and purposes like our hedgerow Brambles except
when in flower, they should be planted in the
pleasure grounds, shrubbery borders and wood-
land ; not in the carefully-trimmed beds of the
formal garden and terrace. Here, when the long,
arching growths are freely clothed with blossoms,
they are most effective. With age
it becomes necessary to cut out as
many of the old dead growths as
possible, or in time the groups
look somewhat dishevelled. There
are few soils in which these Brambles
will not grow. Layering is the
usual method of propagation, while
cuttings will also root, though the
percentage of successes is some-
times not very encouraging.

GREENHOUSE.

1 1

J

FLOWERING SPRAYS OF THE THORNLESS BRAMBLE, RUBUS
DELICIOSUS, AN INTERESTING SHRUB FOR A WARM SITUATION.

Sound district, is sometimes referred to as the
Nootka Raspberry, also as the Salmon-berry.
In foliage and growth it closely resembles R.
odoratus, but the flowers are white.

Double-Flowered Brambles.— While all agree

in calling them double-flowering Brambles, we
possess in gardens a double pink and a double
white Rubus, to which botanists and nurserymen
give several names. In the " Kew Hand List "
the pink-flowered form is named R. ulmifolius
flore pleno. One nursery catalogue gives it as
R, fruticosus roseo pleno, and a second R. bellidi-
florus. The Kew name for the double white

S.UMMER TREATMENT OF
THE AMARYLLIS.

UDGING from what one
sees in even good gar-
dens, a considerable
amount of ignorance
prevails in connection
with the summer culture
of this showy and useful stove
bulb. Plenty of growers get along
all right with freshly-bought bulbs,
but, after flowering them well the
first season, have no more success.
In too many cases the reason is
not at all difficult to discover. As
soon as the flowers fade, the pots
are placed under the stage, where
they either get too much or too
little water and no light to speak
of. This is entirely wrong, and
the finest bulbs in existence
would fail to thrive under such
conditions.

The proper way to treat the
stove Amaryllis (Hippeastrum)
after flowering is to place the pots
in a warm house, say, where a fairly
steady temperature of about 70''
can be maintained. Should any
repotting be necessary, attend to
this before placing the plants in
heat. Personally, I see no necessity
for repotting oftener than every
three to five years, as the
Amaryllis will always give the best results when
rjramped in small pots. At no time need the pots
be larger than the 7-inch size, and very fine flowers
are grown in 5-inch pots. Instead of repotting,
it is therefore best, usually, to merely top-dress
with rich soil to which has been added a fair quan-
tity of Thomson's Plant Manure.

By the beginning of June with the early batch,
and by the first week in July with the latest plants,
growth should be complete. It is then that the
most important part of the summer treatment
must be given. Some writers advise placing the
pots in cold frames, but for various reasons I

July 12, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

351

prefer a sunny gri-enhouse in which to properly
ripen ort the bulbs. An open lath stage is the best
place for them, and they must recei\e full sunshine.
Water must be given whenever necessary, and
twice a week liquid manure, or, better still.
Ichthemic Guano in water, must be given until
the foliage begins to show signs of turning yellow.
When this occurs, drop the feeding, but do not
entirely stop watering. Indeed, the soil should at
no time be allowed to get dust dry, although very
little water will be necessary after the foliage dies
down— just enough to keep the roots from dying.
This is most important, for, naturally, a bulb
which retains fresh, healthy roots has a great
advantage over one that has been enturely dried off,
when the roots have to start into growth again.
.As soon as the foliage dies down, the pots may be
set under the stage, a moderately warm greenhouse
being better than a stove for storing the bulbs
during winter. To sum up, the
Amaryllis should, during summer, be
set on a dry, svmny stage, be well
attended to with water, and fed fre-
quently with weak liquid stimulants
until nearing matiu-ity, when water
only should be given, and tliis latterly
in great moderation. C. Blair.

Preiton Gardens, Linlithgow.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

THE ALPINE POPPY.

WERE it not that one knows too
well the troubles that await the
cultivator of Papaver alpinum
when grown in the ordinary way,
one would wonder at its absence
from so many good gardens. It
is a lovely little gem — a vastly-refined Iceland Poppy
— with foliage of the most delicate character, both
in form and colouring, and a picture to look upon,
either in or out of flower. A charming plant, with
leaves as if carved out of frosted silver or made of
silvery lacework, it bears dainty little flowers of
varied colours lilted gracefully on stems some
six inches high, and gives a succession of blossoms
for a long time. They are of many lovely sliades,

among the chips of this moraine, the plants will
stand for years, and will give a long period of lovely
blooms, seeding themselves in favoured places and
forming dainty groups of charming foliage and even
more charming flowers S. .Arnott.

A CHARMING ASSOCIATION OF
ALPINE FLOWERS.

The accompanying illustration shows two beautiful
alpines in happy association. The small-flowered
plant on the left is Erinus alpinus, native of the
moimtains of Western Europe, but natinalised
here and there in Britain. It is cherished in the
rock garden by virtue of the fact that it i» one
of the most useful crevice plants in cultivation.
Moreover, it is an admirable wall plant, and may
easily be established on a wall by sowing seeds
in crevices that have been filled in with stony or

LIBONIA FLORIBUNDA.

This lovely %varm-house plant is
not grown as extensively as it ought
to be by amateur cultivators. It is a
really beautifm plant for a warm
greenhouse, and flowers during the
autumn and early winter months
when flowers are scarce. Its red and
yellow blossoms, gracefully depending
from the branches, harmonise agree-
ably with the prevailing colours and
autumn tints. Old plants are often
badly infested with red spider, but
these minute insects can be kept
away if the plants are regularly
syringed. There is, however, a
better way of growing fine plants,
namely, by treating them as annuals
Irom cuttings. The young plants
make bushv subjects, and the floweis
borne on them are large and highly
coloured. During the summer months
the young plants may be grown in a
cool frame, so that there will be
no need to sacrifice space in the
greenhouse to them at that period.

Take off strong shoots about three inches long, from wiiite through roses to almost scarlets and
insert them in a mixture of loam, leaf-soil and yellows. A nice variety is given by the laciniatum

POTENTILLA GRANDIFLORA ANLi tkl.\Cb ALl'I.NUS 1 LOWERING SIDE BY SIDE IN THE ROCK GARDEN.

sand in small pots, and place the latter in a pro-
pagating-frame, or in a box covered with glass,
placed on the hot-water pipes. When sufficiently
rooted, pot the cuttings separately in 3-iuch pots,
using a similar compost with the addition of a
small quantity of old mortar rubbish and well-
rotted manure.

Retain the plants for a few weeks in a warm
house or pit where a moist atmosphere can be
maintained. Repot the plants as they require
more rooting space, using the compost in a slightly
rougher state, and confine them to a frame from
the early part of June to the early part of Septem-
ber ; then transfer them to a warm greenhouse.
Feed the plants with weak soot-water and liquid
manure when they are well rooted. It would be
possible to buy a few young plants now to grow on
lor flowering next autumn and winter. Avon.

strain, which has daintily- laciniated petals. The
barrier to the cultivation of Papaver alpinum lies
in the fact that it appears to suffer badly from wet
in winter, while one would whisper also that the
slugs are not innocent of the destruction of many of
these exquisite little alpine Poppies. They can be
transplanted in showery weather, especially when
small ; but the best course is to buy a packet of
seeds, and either to sow very thinly in sandy soil
where they are to bloom, or to sow them as thinly
in pots of sandy soil, just covering the seeds and
pricking out the seedlings where they are to flower,
or into 2^inch pots, whence they can be
planted out with the ball intact. Given a very
dry position in extremely light, sandy and gritty
soil, they may stand wonderfully well ; but there
can be no manner of doubt that the moraine is the
place par excellence for the alpine Poppy. Planted

gritty peat and loam. The flowers, which are
profusely borne in clusters almost clinging to the
the face of rocks, are variable in colour, but are
generally lilac or rosy purple, while the variety
albais a white counterpart, and flowers with almost,
if not quite, equal freedom. The large-flowered sub-
ject of the illustration, bearing a strong resemblance
to a Buttercup, is Potentilla grandiflora. This is a
time-honoured favourite of our gardens, having been
introduced from Southern Europe as far back as
1640. Its bright golden yellow flowers are abimdantly
produced above the Strawberry-like foliage. The
flowers of both subjects are produced in early
summer, but, like many of the pleasing combi-
nations among alpine flowers, the happy effect
here produced was the result of accidental planting.
It is, however, an effect worth noting, and those
who garden for early summer effect should certainly
plant these subjects in close proximity to one
another.

352

THE GARDEN.

[July 12, 1913.

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATES.

Adiantum trapeziforme Queen Mary.— A very
handsome and erect-growing variety of this well-
known species. The fronds were about two feet
in length, the pinnae of unusual size. From Messrs.

quite freely. Among the Erigerons the colour
is quite unique and good. Shown by IVIr. Amos
Perry Enfield, Middlesex.

Rose Muriel Dickson. — A Hybrid Tea of deep
glowmg vermilion scarlet colour. The flowers
are of good size, conical form and fragrant.

Rose Mrs. Godfrey Brown. — This also is a

Hybrid Tea, the flowers behig very large and pale

NEW ORCHIDS.

FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATES.
Odontioda Brewii. — A new hybrid, quite
distinct from .mything yet seen. Parehtage :
Odontioda Charlesworthii x Odontoglossum harry-
anum. In colour it is crimson maroon, and it is
claimed to be the darkest Odontioda yet raised.
The lip is large with a golden crest. The form of

H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton.

Magnolia Delavayi. — By reason of its vigour j flesh pink in colour. Of conical shape, very full ' the flower is not good, but by virtue of its remark
as a young plant, this remarkable species presents | and slightly fragrant. i able colouring it is likely to be the forerunner of

all the promise of tree-like pro-
portions when fully grown. The
flowers are of creamy hue, deepen-
ing into pale lemon colour. The
handsome leaves are 9 inches or
so in length and 4 inches wide,
ovate - acuminate in outline, and
with slightly undulated margins.
From Messrs. Veitch and Sons,
Limited, Chelsea,

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Adiantum siebertianum. — A

pretty and distinct new species,
the fronds having the outline
somewhat of A, assimile, though
stiffer and more erect-growing, and
of a crispate character through-
out. In youth the fronds assume a
pretty red tint that is most pleasing.

Polypodium Mayi cristatum. —

This is practically self-descrip-
tive of one of the best types
of greenhouse Ferns. P. Mayi
is a strong-growing form of P.
aureum, the cristate character
noted in the present variety
adding beauty to a pleasing
form. Both these were shown by
Messrs. H. B. May and Sons,
Edmonton.

Nepenthes atropurpurea. — Th.'
pitchers are of crimson bruwii
hue, the collar beautifully frilled.
A very handsome variety of con-
siderable decorative value.

Nepenthes Lewis Bradbury. —

In this the pitchers are green
and brown, somewhat mottled
or freckled. Like the fo?egoing,
it is a handsome kind and of
considerable vigour. These were
exhibited by Messrs, J, Veitch and
Sons, Limited, Chelsea,
Iris Kaempferi Morning Mist. —

The variety is certainly a very
beautiful and effective one, the
flowers large in size, the white
ground covered almost by a shading
of blue, which renders it most
attractive, A little colony of
this variety is illustrated on
page 349, From Messrs, R,

Wallace and Co,, Colchester.

Carnation Virginia. — A good yellow-ground
fancy, streaked and flushed cerise.

Carnation The Baron. — Also a yellow-ground
fancy, marked with rose. Both are excellent in
their way. Exhibited by Mr, J, Douglas, Great
Bookham, Surrey,

Erigeron hybrida Pinit Pearl. — The colour is
pinkish buff, with perhaps a slight shading to
deeper pink as the flower ages. The plant is
about fifteen inches high, of good habit, and flowers

A BEAUTIFUL NEW HYBRID ORCHID, MILTONIA SANDERS,
AT THE HOLLAND HOUSE EXHIBITION LAST WEEK,

Rose Ulster Standard, — A very deep crimson
single-flowered variety. Judging by the sprays
shown, it has a very vigorous habit, and
the flowers are very fragrant. The three
foregoing Roses were shown by Mr. Hugh Dickson,
Belfast.

Rose Ophelia. — A lovely variety with pink
centre and outer petals of paler hue. Shown in

a new type. Shown by Messrs.
Charlesworth and Co., Hayward's
Heath.

Miltonia Sanderae. — This re-
markable hybrid is illustrated on
this page. The flowers are pale
in colour, which makes the dark
maroon eye all the more con-
spicuous. It was raised by crossing
M. St. Andre with M. vexillaria
G. D. Owen. Shown by Messrs.
Sander and Sons, St, Albans,

Miltonioda Harwoodii Fowler's
Variety. — The new-comer is a
great improvement, both in colour
and form, on this bigeneric
hybrid. Shown by J, G. Fowler,
Esq., South Woodford.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Three new Cattleyas received
awards of merit, viz., C. Mossiae
Dreadnought, a bold flower with
large crimson lip with golden base,
from Messrs. Sander and Sons ; C.
Serenata, a bright rosy pink of
striking colour, from Messrs.
Mansell and Hatcher ; and C.
Mossiae Olympia, a beautiful variety
of perfect form with soft mauve
pink flowers, from Messrs. Charles-
worth and Co. Messrs. Charles-
worth and Co., Hayward's Heath,
also gained an award for Odontioda
Wilsonii Le President, with
peculiarly mottled rose pink
flowers of regular outline and borne
in graceful inflorescences.

The foregoing plants were shown
at the Holland House Show last
week when the awards were made.

A GRAND WALL SHRUB.

(ESCALLONIA LANGLEYENSIS,)

Though now fairly well distri-
buted, the merits of this hybrid
Escallonia as a wall shrub are
often not recognised to the
extent they might be. It was
SHOWN raised in Messrs. Veitch'? nursery
at Langley, the parents being the
red-flowered Escallonia macrantha
and E. philippiana, whose flowers are white.
Generally speaking, it is about midway between
the two, the leaves being smaller than those
of macrantha, while it inherits a good deal
of the spreading gracefully, arching habit of the
other parent. This feature is most pronounced
when the principal branches are secured to a wall
or other support, and the minor ones allowed to

quantity by Messrs. W. Paul and Son, Waltham | dispose themselves at will, which they will do in
Cross. i a pleasing and informal manner. H P.

July 12, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

353

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO PROPAGATE ROSES BY SUMMER CUTTINGS.

THK amatfur gardener, and partiriilarly
the beginner, will find the varying
methods of propagating or increasing
plants one of the most interesting
phases of gardening, .^t all seasons
of the year there is little or much work
to do with a view to adding to one's collection or
slock of phints. It may be seeds to sow, inserting

and from these nodes, when inserted in the soil,
roots may be expected to push out. In taking off
the bottom leaf be careful not to injure the bud
in the axil, as later on any of such buds which are
below the surface will push up and produce those
strong basal shoots which rosarians delight to see
pushing through the soil. Cuttings 4J inches to
5 inches long when made ready for insertion, with
three or four leaves, are a good
average length. Light, sandy soil may
be used for filling the cutting-pots, but
a larger percentage of rooted cuttings
may be looked for if sand alone is
used. Insert four or five cuttings
in 4-inch pots. The rooted cutting
illustrated was inserted in sand, the
photograph being taken twenty-five
days after it was put in. This is
ample evidence of the value of
sand as a rooting medium. There
is also much less liability of cut-
tings damping when sand is used ;
it is clean to handle, and when
potting off the rooted cutting the
sand falls away readily from the
young roots. Should a few of the
leaves fall off the cuttings a week
or more after insertion, fears of non-
success need not be entertained,
provided the buds in the axils of
the leaves remain plump.

The provision of a hand-light,
frame, or propagating-case is the
next consideration. The quickest
results are obtained when a pro-

aiong a lot, and by April, nine months from inserting
the cuttings, nice plants should be available
to plant out in the borders. These will give
a few nice flowers during the summer and a
plentiful supply in autumn if mulched, watered
and carefully tended.

HOW TO GROW GOOD I. ATE
TURNIPS.

YotJNG, succulent Turnips are always appreciated
more than those of a tough, stringy nature. It is a
difficult matter to avoid a certain amount of tough-
ness in roots raised during the hot days of summer,
however careful one may be as regards cultivation.
Where the summer-raised roots must be depended
upon for use in the early part of, and through,
autumn well into the winter, it is a good plan to
lift some of them while still in a tender condition
as regards flesh, and bury them in the ordinary soil
on the north side of a wall or fence. The tops
must be cut off, of course, and the roots buried,
without washing, in the pit, being covered by quite
six inches of soil. So treated, they will remain
sound for many months. Where it is possible to
raise young roots, however, these should be pre-
ferred. In .\ugust and through September the
young roots swell rapidly.

The Soil and the Sowing of the Seeds.— Many

persons are luider the impression that Turnips
to bulb well must be grown in hard ground, in
soil well firmed by treading. Even in naturally
light soils it is not necessary to firm them beyond
the ordinary breaking up, drilling and raking
afterwards. In heavy loams a thorough breaking

I. ROSE CUTTINGS IF TAKEN NOW AND PLACED IN

A 1-RAME WILL ROOT IN A FEW WEEKS.

up is very desirable, otherwise it is inadvisable
pagating-frame with a little bottom- to trample on them any more than can be helped,
heat is available ; but as few In quite clean ground a pinch of seed may be sown

broadcast and raked in ; but where small weeds
ate troublesome, sow the seeds in shallow drills
14 inches apart, and hoe frequently between the
.*\.t this rows of yoimg plants. Shamrock.

readers possess such a convenience,
attention must be directed to the
value of the garden frame or hand-

cuttings, or a little budding and grafting. .-Vmong
a considerable number of plants which are popular
with the amateur grower, the Rose undoubtedly
holds first place. While most of the Rose bushes
we purchase have either been budded or grafted,
most sorts, particularly the strong growers, give
excellent results when propagated from cuttings.
Those popular Hybrid Teas Caroline Testout,
Mme. .\bel Chatenay, Lady Ashtown and Killarney,
the Hybrid Perpetuals Mrs. John Laing, Ulrich
Bruimer and Frau Karl Druschki, and the Rambler
Roses Dorothy Perkins, American Pillar and Mrs.
F. W. Flight are just a few of the popidar sorts
which thrive when propagated from cuttings.

There is no better time than July and .'August
to insert Rose cuttings. The usual practice is
to insert cuttings outside diu-ing October and
November, leaving the young plants in the cutting-
beds till the following October. Practically a
year, however, may be gained by taking cuttings
now and inserting them in pots under glass. The
best growths to make the cuttings are the shoots
which bear the flowers. These are just in the right
condition to insert when the blooms shatter. The
shoots may be anything from 5 inches upwards
in length. They will be better inserted with just
a slight heel of old wood attached at the base, as
shown in the illustration. Failing this, cut off
the stem just below a leaf ; this is termed a node.

light for the purpose
season of the year,
when we look for hot, sunny weather,
the cutting-frame is preferable,
situated on the north side of a wall,
hedge, or fence. Here the cuttings
will get ample light but very little
sunlight to dry up the moisture,
which is so necessary to prevent
the cuttings from withering. A
good soaking of water after insert-
ing the cuttings will probably suffice
for two or three days unless the
position is a dry one.

In from three to four weeks exa-
mine a pot or two of the cuttings,
and as soon as the cuttings are nicely
rooted similar to the one in the
centre of Fig. 2, pot each one off into
a small pot, using light, sandy soil.
Return the cuttings to a close frame
for a few days, and whe:i it is seen
they are recovering from the check
of removal, air should be admitted
and gradually increased as growth
proceeds. The next point worthy
of note is a move into a larger pot.
This time a pot 5 inches wide may
be used. Should a little space on
a stage in the greenhouse be avail-
able for the plants, it wdl help them

-ROSE CUTTINGS A FEW WEEKS AFTER INSERTION.
THE CENTRE CUTTING IS ROOTED AND READY
FOR POTTING UP.

354

THE GARDEN.

[July 12, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Rose Garden.

With the first crop of bloom over, many of the
Hybrid Teas will be well into growth again ; and
to encourage this second crop it is well to look
after the watering and feeding. Liquid manure
may be given ad lib., and, if the plants seem to
require it, a dressing of artificial manure may also
be given.

Green Fly and Mildew. — At this time, while the
plants are fairlv devoid of bloom, it is advisable to
take a little e.xtra trouble to eradicate green fly,
as, after about this date, if the plants are thoroughly
cleansed, they seem to keep pretty clean for the
rest of the season, and the only pest to combat is
mildew. For this there are many preparations
on the market which will keep it under, providing
the plants are regularly sprayed and the roots
kept in good condition as regards moisture.

Budding. — Those who have stocks planted for
budding should lose no time in getting the work
done. If the weather is unduly dry, a good watering
a few days beforehand will ensure the bark running
nicely.

The Pleasure Grounds.
Watering Grass. — Where the grass is apt to
turn up badly, it is advisable to water pretty fre-
quently. The ordinary sprinkler is a very good
friend where there is not much ground to be covered,
but where the lawns are extensive it pays to keep
a youth at work with the hose. In this way a good
deal of ground can be covered, and though the
water may not penetrate so deeply, suflicient may
be given to keep the grass in the immediate vicinity
of the house in a fairly fresh condition.

Plants Under Glass.

Cannas that are throwing up their blooms must
be liberally treated, especially when flowering in
small pots.' Those that are showing colour should
be removed from the main batch, as they will not
stand the svringe when in bloom, though during
the growing season it is very necessary to use it
regularly, or spider will quickly make its appearance.

Climbing Roses in Pots.— Where these are again
required for flowering under glass next season,
they should have very careful attention. After
cutting out all the old flowering wood and tying
in the growths (say three or four) intended to flower,
the pots should be partly plunged in ashes, or in
the ground, in such a position where they can
be well looked after, both as regards watering and
feeding, as the pots, being very full of roots, will
be found to dry rather quickly.

Salvia splendens. — ^These are now growing
freely in their flowering pots, and to preserve a
bushy habit the shoots should be topped over at
every second or third pair of leaves. Glory of
Zurich, which may be wanted in bloom at the
end of August or early September, should not be
pinched after the end of this month.

Azalea indica. — These plants, after making
their growth indoors, should be removed to the
open air, selecting a semi-shady position for them.
There is a distinct advantage in watering with rain-
water whenever it can be obtained. Lime in the
water or in any form is distinctly detrimental to
nearly all hard-wooded plants.

The Kitchen Garden.

The hot, dry weather which we associate with
July and August often proves a very trying time
in the kitchen garden, more particularly on light
soils, but much good results from a system of mulch-
ing and watering, providing it has not been put
off too long. Peas, Beans, Cauliflowers, Lettuces,
Celerv and Onions — in fact, all the quick-growing
subjects — are greatly benefited by a good soaking
of water now and again, while a hosing overhead
during the very hot weather will do much to
preserve a fairly healthy and clean growth.
Though I have frequently mentioned the matter of
hoeing in this calendar, I cannot too strongly
emphasise the good to be derived from it, and when
circumstances do not allow of mulching and water-
ing, this is the next best thing.

Eschalots have not done well in this neighbour-
hood, the growth being poor in most instances. As

soon as the tops have died down, the bulbs should
be harvested. Remove them from the soil and
lay them out for a day or two before storing them
away in the shed. If left in the sun too long after
removing from the soil they are apt to shrivel.

Late Peas. — To secure a good crop of late Peas
it is necessary to give the plants every attention,
and, before staking, they should be carefully thinned,
and after carefully hoeing between them, a light
mulching of well-rotted manure between the indi-
vidual plants will do much to keep them healthy.

Fruits Under Glass.

Melons. — For very late crops seed should now
be sown, choosing a' small, quick-ripening variety.
I have tried Bamet Hill Favourite this season,
and found it one of the best in this respect ; it is
of excellent flavour. Fruit may be kept some time
if removed from the plant before it gets too ripe
and placed in a cool, airy fruit-room.

Fruit Trees, either in houses or frames, which
are bearing swelling fruits must be kept well
supplied with moisture at the roots. In the latter
case the fruit trees should be raised up on pots or
blocks, so as to keep the fruits dry. and, incidentally,
to give them as much light arid air as possible.
Ventilate freely during bright weather to prevent
scorching of the foliage, but shut up the frame
early enough in the afternoon, so as to maintain
as much heat as possible during the night.

Hardy Fruits.

Gooseberries and Currants that are ripening
should be netted to keep off birds, and where it is
desired to keep such fruit as long as possible, a
piece of tiffany strained above the trees will retard
the ripening process and preserve the fruit for a
considerable time.

American Blight. — When the Apple trees are
affected by this pest, steps should be taken to
keep it down, and I have found nothing better
than to go over the trees carefully, touching the
affected parts with methvlated spirit, taking
care not to splash the foliage or fruit during the
operation. If the trees are gone over two or three
times during the next few weeks, it will probably
keep them clean for the rest of the season.
Thomas Stevenson,
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Sweet Peas. — Attention must be given to water-
ing if drought sets in, and if the operation is neces-
sary, a good soaking should be given, after which,
when the surface has dried somewhat, it should
be stirred with the hoe. On light soils especially
it will be of great advantage to mulch the crop,
and grass mowings or Hop Manure will be found
suitable for the purpose. By this means the roots
will be kept cool and the moisture conserved.

Auriculas and Polyanthuses. — This is the

time to save seed of these popular hardy flowers.
The careful cultivator will have marked any
specially good variety; but with the strains of
seed now supplied by many firms one can hardly
go wrong in saving seed for growing in masses.
Select dry weather for the work.

Dividing Heucheras.— If these plants are
divided just after the flowering period, they will
give a fairly good account of themselves next
season, whereas, if the operation is delayed until
the autumn, little can be expected of them next
year. The long, fleshy roots should be shortened
with a sharp knife, and they should be planted
deeply, so that the foliage only appears above the
surface. The Heucheras are very useful for dinner-
table and other indoor decorations, the graciUimum
section being specially suitable for this purpose.

The Rose Garden.

Pests. — A constant watch must still be kept
for the appearance of aphis and mildew, but in
dealing with them care must be taken of the
blooms. In the event of mildew appearing, a
dusting of flowers of sulphur by means of the
puff is preferable to spraying.

Spent Blooms should be removed two or three
times a week, as if allowed to remain they become
very unsightly.

The Rock Garden.
Propagating Aubrietias. — Where an increase
of the stock is desired, no time should be lost in
setting about the work, as cuttings are difficult
to strike after the young growths have ripened.
Under favourable conditions, however, Aubrietias
root quite readily. The directions given in the
calendar during the past few weeks for the propa-
gation of Dianthuses and Cheiranthuses are quite
suitable for Aubrietias. Another method is to
work in some sandy loam among the young growths,
attending to them with water when necessary,
and in due course roots will be emitted. The plants
can then be broken up in the autumn.

The Shrubbery.

Lilacs. — See that the decayed flower-trusses
are promptly removed, as they are unsightly,
and in their attempt to mature seeds the plants
are weakened. Suckers should be spudded out.

Layering. — Many of our finer shrubs are best
propagated by layering, and this is a good time
for attending to this work. There are several
methods of layering. One is that of simply sinking
the bent-down shoot under the surface of the soil,
fixing it in position with a stout peg. A second
method is known as twisting, meaning that the
branch receives a twist in order to stop the flow of
sap and thereby encourage the emission of roots.
Splitting is performed by making an incision
through the centre of the shoot with a sharp knife,
and tongueing is performed in the same way
as Carnations are prepared for layering. In each
case the branch is sunk below the surface of the
soil and pegged down.

Plants Under Glass.

Pelargoniums. — As soon as these have done
flowering they should be placed out of doors in
a sunnv position. All the old flowers should be
removed, and if there is any appearance of aphis,
the plants should be thoroughly syringed with
some insecticide. Gradually diminish the supply
of water at the roots.

Late Geraniums. — Plants intended for late
autumn flowering should now be in the open,
or in frames with the lights tilted high at the back
and front. Keep all flower-trusses picked off, and
pinch out the points of the shoots to ensure a stubby
habit.

Fruits Under Glass.

Melons. — Where these are swelling their fruits,
abundance of chilled water must be supplied to
the roots, as evaporation is now very rapid. Do
not water close up to the stems, or canker may
ensue. Where it does appear, rub the affected
parts with charcoal dust or powdery lime.

Cucimibers. — Plants which have been be;iring
for some time should receive the benefit of some
fertiliser. Thin out superfluous shoots and pinch
the remaining laterals at one leaf beyond the fruit.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Strawberry Runners which were layered some
weeks ago will now have made good roots, and
should be detached from the parent plant by
cutting the runner immediately behind the rooted
plant. Plants in plantations made in spring should
not be allowed to form runners, or they will be
weakened.

The Vegetable Garden.

Spring Cabbages. — Seed of these should be sown
during the next week. Only quick-hearting varie-
ties should be sown. There are a good many
of these. We have had a succession of first-rate
Cabbages from April to the present time from
sowings of EUam's Early and McEwan's Early
Vanack sown at this date last year.

Spinach. — Sowings made now and onwards
for a few weeks will give better results than sowings
made a few weeks prior to this date. Spinach never
germinates well in rough, lumpy soil. Manure
well.

Parsley. — A sowing made now will furnish a
winter supply if covered with a frame later on.
If the ground is at all dry, water it thoroughly
after sowing, as Parsley requires a long period for
germination.

The Brassica Family.— Planting of greens.
Savoys, Cabbages, Asparagus Kale and Broccoli
should now be brought to a close. Water after
planting if dry conditions obtain.

Charles Comfort.

BroomfieldGardms, Davidson's Mains. Midlothian.

July 12, 1913-]

THE GARDEN.

355

TO

ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— T/i^- Editor intends to
make 'I'hk Gakden helpful to all readers wiio desire assist-
ance, no umtter what the branch of gardening may be. and
with that object will inake a special feature of the "Answers
to ('orrespondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely ivritten on one side of the paper only.
and addressed to tlie Editor of The Gakdkn, 20, Tanstock
Street, Cuvent Garden, London, W.C. The riame and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
i/uery is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be dearly numbered and securely
packed in damp yrass or nioss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
sfioots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to stend
small scraps tfiat are not characteristic of
the plant. Letters on business sJwuld ht
sent to the Pubushek.

Give the plant a watering with a weak solution of sulphate
of potash, and if the trouble continues, s;pray with paraffin
(Mnulsion.

MISCELLANEOUS.

LEAF-RUST ON TOMATOES (/>.;.— The Tomatot>
arc attacked by the disease often called leaf-nist, dm-
to the funuus Cladosporium fulvum. They should be
sprayed with Bordeaux ntixtnre. and the j:reatest care
cxeri-'ised with regard to the ventilation of the house.
Tht' disease is rarely trouVIesonie where attention is paiii
to Iht' maintenanceof a free circulation of air and a fairly
hi'^h temperature.

THREADWORMS (//. C'.).~The lon-^ white thread-
worms, n-achiii^' - itic-hes or :i inches or more in leugtli,
are in im way rfsponsihle for the trouble with your plants.
They an^ really panisitic in tlie intestines of beetles ami
other large insects, leaving theni at a certain stage, whrii
they are found on thr Irjivrs of various plants and so on.
The sourer of tin- troiibb- of which you complain mu-t
be sought i-Krwheri-.

GOLD-FISH OUT OF DOORS (//. FT.).— UoUl-ftsh wilti-
standjordinarylwinteis in uuidnor ponds in the Soutli of

FLOWER GARDEN.

ARABIS AND AUBRIETIA (X.)

You may take the cutting.-- of the Arabis
at any time. Shoots of 4 inches or
:> inches long, divested of their lower
leaves and pricked in sandy soil in a
shady place, will root to almost cent,
per cent. You can bed out the result-
ing plants in autumn or spring. Scds
of Aubrietias for providing suitabb
plants for spring carpet bedding sliouM
have been sown not later than Alarcb
last. Seedlings, however, are not tin-
Itest for this work, since they vary in
height, habit and colour, and in other
ways. The only really good way to get
effective masses true to colour is b>
raising a stork from cuttings or division
CAMPANULA (Mrs T.).— From your
(li-scriptioM the Campanula you arr
seekiiii: is rrrta'iiily not C. muralis, which
is of tufted growth, ti inches or so high,
ami in June smothered with its semi-
enrl. br!l-shaped ttowers. C garganica
in all its forms is of a carpeting nature.
/.('.. Hat -growing and spreading, the
ratluT small flowers star-shaped and
profiisidy borne from July to September.
I'here are pale blue and white varieties.
Another variety with woolly leaves is
known as hirsuta. 'I'he plant would be
easily obtained from any good hardy
plant nursery. If the Lily bulbs are
small as w-ell as weakly rooted, throw
them away and ^tart with a fresh stock,
planting, if po>siblr, in August. This Lily
(candidnm^ l)r^ins re-rooting soon after
the tluwcr-sjiiUis failc

ROSE GARDEN.

WARTY GROWTH UPON CRIMSON
RAMBLER iC'ipt.iin A. S. /v.).— This
iirowlli l^ caused by Ilie puncture of an
insect, and although we do not .think
t here is an> fear of infection, we should
crrtainly recommend cutting away all
_;iowths atfcctcd.as they cannot possibly
lie of any use.

YELLOW ROSE FOR SOUTH WALL
(Mrs. 2'.). -- Ueve d'Or would lie at.
c\eellent Ko^e for your wall. It would
be quite hardy eiiouirb for a sontii
u.-<pect. The Kosc is nicely Tea-scented
and blooms perpctiia.lly when estab-
lished. Bouquet d'Or would bloom
rarlier than K6ve d'Or; that is to say,
tlie plant would bloom the second year
alter planting. It is also rather moie
swerth scentf'd.

ROSE SPORT (J. 6'.).— Are you quite sure the Rose is
i\ sport ? It sometimes happens that a plant has had two
buds of two diffeient kinds budded into the root. If
von look carefullv and see whether the growth of thr
-port springs from that of the Rose you name. then, of
rourse, it is ail right. You might send us a flower with
•I p'cce of growth ; then we can see from the wood if it is
the same.

ROSE MRS. AMBROSE RICARDO, AWARDED A SILVER-GILT MEDAL AT

THE NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY S EXHIBITION.
MESSRS. S. MCGREDY AND SON. {See page V.)

INJURY

iipprars to

THE GREENHOUSE.

TO CYCLAMEN (TTrifon)— The Cydanu'll
lir drymu oil, and will probably start aaaiii
into growth. Possibly water has been withheld. The
rause of the appearance is some cultural treatment,
and not a fnnsus or insect The Rose sent is Alberic
Harl.il T.

CARNATION SHOOTS FOR INSPECTION (Wales).—
livi.leiitlv some insert has bern fpunrtnrinw the leaves
anil snekini! out tin' saj. of tlie Carnation here and there.

England, but we have had no experience with them
out of doors in the North. Perhaps it would be as well
to place them indoors for the winter. Some people feed
th'- flsh with a little bread as well as irith ants' cjjgs.
It is difficnlt to say how often they require feedins, for
that depends entirely on the amount of food material
they find in the water. It would perhaps be advisable
to give them quite a small quantity at once and feed them
once a day.

NAMES OF PLANTS. — IF. J. Hemp. — Thalictrum

flavum and T. minus. F. ./. H. — Spirsea canescens.

C. L. Cawk-ctl. — Campanula carpatica ; Silene pendula.

A. O — 1, Cannot name varieties of English Iris; i,

Dianthus plumarius variety : 3. D. superbus. W . (V. —

I. Scnccio Doronicum ; 2. Lathyrus nitier ; 3, Sedum
rupestre ; 4, S. altissimum ; 5, Erodium Manescavi ; 6,

Geranium nodosum. P. M., " Deiibury." — Keiria

japonica(tvpe); Hedysarum coron.arium (French Honey-
suckle), best raised from si^i'd in spring. Mnpli-dnne. —

1, Iris flavescens ; 2, Ciimp:'Tiu!a pusilla.

SOCI Ejri ES.

THE NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY'S
SHOW.

Tilt: ammai metropolitan exhibition in connection with
the above society was held in the Royal Botanic Gardens.
Rejrent's Park, on Friday of last week, and proved a sireat
and unqualified success. The exhibitors ntlinbered neariv
three hundred, a record number. The arrangements, a>
usual, were excellent, and reflected the ^'reatest crcdi* on
the courteous secretary, Mr. E. Ma\vley, and the members
of the council.

NURSERYMEN'S CLASSES.
Both iu quantity and quality the Roses displayed iii
the nursc^rymcn's classes left nottiing to be desired, pro-
viding further evidence, if such were lu'cded. of the hiy,
>tauilard of perfection that has now been reached in tie.
art of Rose-growing. Tin' classes for Roses in box<-
and groups of Roses werii alike well filled, the whole
exhibit being one of unusual splendour, in Class 1.
for seventy-two blooms, distinct, there were fl\e com-
jietitors, all of them showing blooms in flrst-rate con-
dition. The lirst prize (trophv and gohl
incvlal; went to .Ue.^sr^. Berijauiin R.
Cant and Sons. Colchester, for perfect
flowers iu clean and fresh condition.
Among the finest blooms were a uew
red seedling, Augustus Hartmann, The
Lyon Rose, J. R. Clark, Frances C.
Seton, Mrs. Edward Mawlcv anil
Edward Mawley. Second, Messrs. A.
Dickson and Sons, Limited, with won-
derfully fine blooms of Florence Pem-
Iwrton, the new red H. V. Machin.
.Mrs. Mackellar and Ulster; third
.Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., Colchester',
whose exhibit contained the best Hy-
brid Tea in a n.agnificont bloom of
(ieorge Dickson ; fourth, Messrs. R.
Ilarkness and Co.. Hitchin. with a Hue
lot. including Jtrs. John Laiiig as the
best Hybrid Perpetual.

Class 2, for forty distinct varieties,
three blooms of each, was won by,
.Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons,
Limited, Hawlmark, Newtownards,
with an admirable array of blooms
in which we noted 'Mme. Jules
Gravereaux, H. V. Machin (vivid
crimson), .Mabel Drew, the new dccji
red Mrs. Conwav Jones, Mrs. David
.McKee and Mrs. John Laing, the last
named being shown in tine condition
by many exhibitors. 'The second prize
wasw^on by Messrs. B. Cant and Sous,
Colchester, who showed the Lyon Rose
in wonderful colour: third. Messrs.
Frank Cant and Co., Colchester.

Mr. George Prince, Longworth, gained
the first prize and eballence cup for
forty-eight blooms, distinct, in Classy.
His blooms of The Lvon Rose, Mare-
ehal Xiel and Mme. C. Soupert very
much enhanced the rich colouring of
his exhibit : second. Messrs. Perkins
and Sons, Coventry ; third, Messrs. G.
and W. H. Burch. Peterborough.

For twenty-tour blooms, distinct
(Class 4), Messrs. Chaplin Brothers.
Limited. Waltham Cross, were first
with a nice lot. including good solid

I'l IS of Hugh Dickson, Her .Majesty

and Kdiiigin C'arola. Second, Mr. W. R,
llaiiimond. Burgess Hill, Sussex ; third,
.Mr. John Mattock, Headington,
Oxford.

There was keen competition for six-
teen varieties, three blooms of each,
the first prize going to the King's
Acre Nursery Company. Hereford ;
second, Jlessrs. G. and W. U. Burch.
Peterborough; third, Mr. \V. H.
i' r e 1 1 i n g h a m , Beeston Nurseries.
Nottingham.

For twelve white and twelve crim-
son Roses shown together, Messrs.
Frank Cant and Co. were first with the
Karl Drusciiki and Gloirc de Chedane

SHOWN BY

variei ies Frau
Guinoissean.

Mr. Walter Bentley, Beigrave. Leicester, was first for
nine varieties of decorative Roses in vases Particularly
fine were Mme. Soupert, Duchess of Wellington and J Hill.
Second, ilessrs. Chaplin Brothers, Limited ; third, Mr.
E. J. Hicks, Twyford.

For eighteen decorative Roses in vases, the first prize
was secured by Mr. J. Mattock for an excellent collection,
among which we noted Edward Mawley and Lady Ross-
more.^ .Mr. John Pigg of Royston was second for a superb
collection, among which we observed Rayon d'Or, Lady
Hillingdon and Le Progrte, the yellow tones prevailing.

There was a beautiful class for twelve varieties to lie
shown iu vases (Class 9). This was won by Messrs. D.
Prior and Sons, Colchester, whose vases of Leslie Holland,
I.adv Ashtowii, J. Hill and Bessie Brown left nothing to
be desired. Second, Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons.
Limited, witli an almost equally fine lot, including Duchess
of Portland, G. C. Wand and Mildred (tiant in the best of

356

THE GARDEN.

[July 12, 1913.

condition. Third, Mr. G. Prince, who showed the little-
known E. V. Hermanos (apricot) and Mrs. A. E. Coxhead
(brisht rosy red). , „ ^ ,

Mr. Henry Drew, Longworth, was a good first for sixteen
Teas and Noisettes, his best blooms being Medea, W. R.
Smith, Mme. Jules Gravereaux and Mrs. Myles Kennedy.
Second, Mr. G. Prince ; third, Mr. J. Mattock.

For twelve Teas and Noisettes, Mr. John Mattock led
the way, showing beautiful blooms of W. E. Smith and
Mrs Foley Hobbs. Second, Messrs. J. Burrell and Co.,
Cambridge ; third, Mr. E. J. Hicks. W. U. Smith was
shown well by most competitors in this class.

D'ambrain Cup. — Considerable interest was centred m
the class for the D'ombrain Cup, awarded to the best
twenty-four Teas and Noisettes. This was again won by
that successful exhibitor Mr. G. Prince, who has won this
cup ever since it was first ottered. For the third year
Mr Drew, also of I.ongworth, was second. Third, Messrs,
Benjamin R. Cant and Sons. Among the most beautiful
Roses of this class were Miss Alice de Rothschild, Alex-
ander Hill Gray, Mme. Constant Soupert, Maman Cochet,
Mrs. Myles Kennedy and MarSchal Niel.

For thirty-six vases of decorative varieties, Mr. John
Mattock was first, winning the A. G. Turner Cup with a
"rand lot, includinir the single Crimson Damask, Prince rte
Bul^arie Cliateau de Clos Vougeot, Lady Hillingdon and
General Macarthur. Second, Messr.s. Frank Cant and Co.,
who showed Rouge Angevine in great form. Third,
Messrs W Spooner and Son, Woking.

Mr. Henry Drew was first for nine Teas and Noisettes,
seven blooms of each, shown in vases. His vises of Mrs.
[I'oley Hobbs, Miss Alice de Rothschild and Mrs. Huberl
Taylor were capital; so also were Harry Kirk and White
Maman Cochet shown in the second prize collection by
Messrs. D. Prior and Sons. Mr. G. Prince was third.

Mr E J. Hicks was first for a group of eighteen varieties
of decorative Roses. His vases of American Pillar and
Mme. Ravary were much admired. Second, Mr. E. Hicks,
Wantage Road, Wallingford, Berks, who showed the
singles "Irish Elegance and Irish Glory in perfect form.

In a similar class for eighteen varieties Messrs. W.
Spooner and Son were first with a fine lot of Ramblers,
including the charming Rosa moschata alba. Second.
Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., who showed Crimson
Damask in wonderfully good form.

Messrs. Frank Cant and Co. led the way for twelve
Polyantha Roses. Leonie Lamesch, after the colour of
■I'he Lyon Rose, was very tolIin2. Second, Mr. 6. Prince ;
third, Messrs. J. Burrell and Co.

Mr E J. Hicks was first for twelve wichuraianas.
followed by Messrs. Frank. Cant and Co. and Mr. J. Pigg,
the last named showing Diabnlo. a fine single crimson.
Lady Godiva and Alberic Barbier were two of the best
varieties in the class. , » r

Messrs. J. Cocker and Sons, Aberdeen, were first for
nine blooms of any new Rose with the superb Mrs. Andrew
Carnegie, of pale lemon yellow colour, and sweetly scented.
Messrs' Hobbies, Limited, gained first prize and a gold
medal for a group of Roses occupying 250 square feet.
Weepin-T standards were arranged over a groundwork of
the best varieties in cultivation, with suspended baskets
of such good varieties as Marquise de Sinety and Rayon
d'Or in the foreground. Second, Messrs. Paul and Son,
Cheshunt, Herts, for an extensive and beautifully-
arranged ' group, in which ramblers and wichuraianas
were well lepri'.sented. Third. Mr. A. J. Allen.

Mr. G. Prince was first for twelve blooms of new Roses,
with graiKl blooms of Mrs. A. Hammond, Mrs. A. E. Cox-
head and Ethel Malcolm. Second, Messrs. Perkins and
Sons Coventry, who showed Lieutenant Chaure and Mabel
Drew in good' form. Third. Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons,
Limited, who showed Leslie Holland in first-rate condition.
It is a fine ted that stands out well in the exhibition box.

Messrs. W. and J. Brown, Peterborough, were first for a
"roup of cut Roses 33 feet bv 3 feet, gaining the gold medal
For the fourth time. It was a magnificent group, staged
in a masterly wav, the pillars of The Lyon Rose, Marquise
de Sinety and Avoca being worthy of special mention.
Mr. F. M. Bradley, Peterborough, was a good second.
These two groups were among the most meritorious in the

show. „ . ■ ... , c

Messrs Jackman and Son were first in a similar class for
cut blooms, followed by Mr. Karl Therkildsen, Old South-
gate, N. Third, Messrs. Morse Brothers, Deben Nursery,
Woodbridge. . ^ , . • « , j

Baskets ol Roses. — Roses shovra m baskets again aftorded
one of the most pleasing features of the exhibition. Messrs.
Paul and Son were first for nine baskets, distinct. Lady
Ashtown stands well, and made one of the best baskets,
while Mme. Chatenay and Harry Kirk were also very fine.
Mr John Mattock was a good second, with Mr. Walter
Ba=lea third, the last-named exhibitor showing a superb
basket of the new decorative Hybrid Tea Cherry Page, of
a wonderful cherry pink colour suffused with yellow at
tihc busc. •

For five baskets, Messrs. Chaplin Brothers were first,
showing The Lyon Rose and Duchess of Wellington, both
in first-rate condition. Second, The King's Acre Nuiserj-
Company, Hercfoid ; third, Messrs. R. Harkness and Co.,
Hitchin. ,, „ „ .

For a basket of Rayon d'Or, Mr. George Prmce was an
easy first, his blooms being of exquisite form and colour.
He was also first for a basket of Mrs. Foley Hobbs.

A basket of the new Mrs. Andrew Carnegie gained a first
prize for Messrs. J. Cockei and Sons.

AMATEURS.

In the amateurs' trophy class for thirty-six blooms,
distinct varieties, there were no fewer than nine entries,
each exhibitor, without exception, showing well.

A grand lot of blooms won first prize for Mr. Franklin
Dennison, Cranford, Leamington Spa, the flowers being
even, fresh and of splendid quality. The better blooms

in this superb exhibit were Mrs. James Welch, Oberhof-
gartner Terks, Gloire de C. Guinoisseau, Lady Barham,
Mme. Jules Gravereaux, Hugh Dickson, Mildred Grant,
Mrs. W. J. Grant, White Maman Cochet, Horace Vernet,
William Shean, Queen of Spain, J. B. Clark, Bessie Brown,
Princess Mary Mertchersky, Mrs. Foley Hobbs, Mrs. John
Bateman, Mabel Drew, Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. .John
Laing, Dean Hole and Souvenir de Pierre Notting. A
splendid second prize series of blooms was shown by Dr.
T. E. Pallett, Earls Colne, Essex, who is to be congratulated
in achieving so much. His best blooms were Mrs. Theodore
Roosevelt, Avoca, Dr. O'Donel Browne, Frau Karl
Druschki, Mildred Grant, J. B. Clark, Dean Hole
and Mrs. John Laing. Third prize was secured by Mr.
Bversfield, Denne Park, Horsham. Splendid blooms
of J. B. Clark, Mrs. Arthur Coxhead, Frau Karl Druschki
and Mildred Grant were very noticeable in a handsome
series of blooms. Fourth prize was secured by the Rev.
L. C. Chalmers-Hunt, Willian Rectory, Letchwortii, Herts.
A grand bloom of Mildred Grant was especially note-
worthy in this fine exhibit.

The six exhibits in the class for twenty-four blooms,
distinct varieties, made a brave show, good quality gener-
ally characterising the whole of the exliibits. Mr. Franidin
Dennison in this class again led the van with a charming
exhibit of attractive flowers. jMrs. James Welch, Florence
Pemberton. Yvonne Vacherot, Mildred Grant. G. C.
Wand, Horace Vernet, Mrs. John Bateman. Mabel Drew,
Her Majesty and Bessie Brown were conspicuously good.
As in the premier class. Dr. Pallett w.as placed second,
securing this position with a beautiful lot of clean, highly-
coloured blooms. Lieutenant Chaure. J. B. Clark, Mrs.
A. E. Coxhead, Dean Hole, Mrs. John Laing and Dr.
O'Donel Browne were all good. Third prize was won by
Mr. T. Park, Askew Jlill, Bedale, who had some excellent
blooms on his stand.

No fewer than seven exhibits were forthcoming in the
class for twelve trebles. This is always a most interesting
class, and the competition in the present instance was very
keen. Again Mr. Franklin Dennison excelled, leading
the van with a grand lot of blooms. Those especially
worthy of note were Mildred Grant, Queen of Spain, ittrs.
John Laing, Florence Pemberton, Mme. Jules Gravereaux,
Francois Michelon. Bessie Browm, Alice Lindsell and Mrs.
Theodore Roosevelt. A less even lot of blooms placed
Mr. Conway Jones. Hucclecote, Glos, second. Those de-
serving of mention were Lohengrin, Dr. O'Donel Browne,
Hugh Dickson, Dean Hole, J. B. Clark, A. K. Williams
and William Shean. Third prize was awarded to Mr.
G. A. Hammond, Woodlands, Burgess Hill, who had
several fine trebles.

Six boxes of nine blooms of any Rose except Tea or
Noisette represented Class 40, the first prize in this class
being offered by Messrs. Thomas Rivers and Son, Saw-
bridgeworth. In this case Dr. T. E. Pallett secured
premier honours with superb examples of Avoca, the
flowers leaving nothing to be desired. Second prize was
awarded to Mr. Alexander Hill Gray, Beaulieu, Bath, with
charming examples of Florence Pemberton ; and with the
same variety Mr. Franklin Dennison was placed third.
This was a splendid competition.

The Harkness Cup, offered for twelve blooms, distinct
varieties, open to all amateurs, was secured by Dr. C.
Lamplough. Kirkstall, Hants, who staged a splendid set
including Frau Karl Druschki, White Maman Cochet
Mildred Grant and Avoca ; Dr. T. E. Pallett, Earls Colne,
Essex, and Mr. G. A. Hammond, Woodlands, Burgess Hill,
following in order of merit.

The Hammond Cup, for six blooms of new Roses, distinct,
open to all amateurs was secured by Franklin Dennison,
Esq.. Cranford, Leamington, who showed Mrs. Coxhead,
Alexander Gray, James Welch, Mrs. A. Hammond, Duke
of AVestminster and Mabel Drew in excellent form and
finish ; Mrs. Bevill Fortescue, Maidenhead, closely following
as second, and H. L. Weltern, Esq., Sanderstead, Crovdon,
third.

The Challenge Trophy, for Tea and Noisette Roses,
value 25 guineas, was secured by Mr. A. Hill Gray, New-
bridge, Bath. Among the varieties shown were White
Maman Cochet, Muriel Grahame, Medea and L. M. Gray ;
Mr. E. E. Everfield secured second and Mrs. Bevill For-
tescue third.

The Prince Memorial Prize, offered for eiglit distinct
varieties, three blooms of each, was also secured by the same
exhibitors in the following order of merit : First, Mr.
A. Hill Gray ; second, Mr. E. E. Eversfleld ; thild, Mrs.
Bevill Fortescue. The varieties shown in the first stand
included Maman Cochet, Mrs. Foley Hobbs, Souvenir de
Pierre Notting and W. R. Smith.

For seven distinct varieties of exhibition Roses, five
blooms of each, to be staged in vases, Mr. E. E. Eversfield
secured first with Frau Kart Druschki, Hugh Dickson,
A. Coxhead, J. Laing, Lyon, Bessie Brown and Dean Hole.
Mi. J. A. Hammond was a good second, and Mr. Conway
Jones third.

PERPETUAL-FLOWERING DECORATIVE ROSES.

For three baskets of cut Roses in distmct varieties the
Rev. J. H. Pemberton obtained first position, Mrs.
Wightman taking second and H. V. Macliin, Esq., third.

For seven distinct varieties in separate vases, seven stems
in each vase, the Rev. J. H. Pemberton was again first,
showing Lyon, lUyon d'Or, Uon Pain, Prince de Bulgarie,
Lady Ashtown, J. Hill and Gustav Griinerwald.

For eighteen decorative Roses, distinct varieties, not
less than three nor more than twelve stems of each variety.
Ml. H. V. Macliln took the leading honours; the Rev.
J. H. Pemberton followed, a good second.

For a table decoration consisting of single Roses and
Rose foliage only, Mrs. E. M. Burnett, Westwood Road,
Southampton, secured the highest place with a beautifully-
arranged table of Irish Elegancd, Mrs. F. P. Wood being

second, Mrs. J. W. Smith third and Miss J. B. Langton
fourth.

For a table decoration of Roses (singles excepted).
Miss M. West took first with a lovely-arranged table of
Richmond : Mrs. G. C Sawday, second ; Mrs. A. Robinson,
third ; and Countess Olga Pontiatini, fourth.

SILVER MEDALS FOR BEST BLOOMS IN THE SHOW.

Nurserymen. — Best Rose other than Hybrid Tea, Tea
or Noisette : Messrs. R. Harkness and Co., for Mrs. John
Laing.

Best Hybrid Tea : Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., for
George Dickson.

Best Tea or Noisette : Mr. G. Prince, for Mrs. Edward
Mawley.

Amateurs. — Best Rose other than Hybrid Tea, Tea or
Noisette • R. Foley Hobbs, for Horace Vernet.

Best Hybrid Tea ; Dr. T. E. Pallett. for Avoca.

Best Tea or Noisette : C. C. Eversfield. for Mrs. Foley
Hobbs.

OPEN TO Growers op Fewer than 3,000 Plants.
Twenty-four blooms, distinct, tested the skill of growers
in the leading class in this di\ision. There were four
excellent exhibits. First prize and Hobbies Cup were won
by Mr. W. Onslow Times ; second, Mr. W. Boyes; third,
Mr. H. R. Darlington.

In the same division the other class was for nine blooms
of any Rose except Tea or Noisette, and in this class there
were five entrants for honours. In this contest Mr. W.
Onslow Times, Hitchin, was placed in the leading position
with an even series of blooms. Dean Hole, Mildred
Grant, The Lyon. Lady Alice Stanley and A. K. Williams
were his best blooms. Second prize went to iVIr. W.
Boyes, Middleton-on-the Wolds, East Yorks, a splendid
Edward Mawley standing out prominently. Third prize
was won by Mr. H. R. Darlington, Park House, Potter's
Bax. Marquise Litta and Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt were
snlendid in this exhibit.

There were seven entries in the class for nine blooms of
any Rose except Tea or Noisette, the winner being found
in Mr. Eversfleld, Denne Park, Horsham, who had
well-coloured examples of Dean Hole in good condition.
Second prize was won by Mr. F. R.. Biggloston, Jesmond,
Puckle Lane, Canterbury, who had beautiful examples of
Frau Karl Druschki. With Mildred Grant Mr. W. Onslow
Times was placed third.
Open to Growers of Fewer than 2,000 Plants.
The leading class was for twenty-four blooms, distinct,
and there were four entries, all in superb form. This was
a competition for a piece of plate, value five guineas,
offered by Messrs. B. Cant and Sons, Colchester. Premier
honours rested with Captain W. Jarrett Thorpe, Grans-
moor, Hucclecote, Gloucester, who staged a very fresh,
clean exhibit. Superb examples of Mildred Grant, George
Dickson, Mil Dudley Cross, Mrs. Foley Hobbs, G. C. Waud,
Mrs. James Welch and Dean Hole were conspicuously
good. A good exhibit from Mr. H. L. Weltern, Waratah,
Sanderstead, Croydon, was awarded second prize, and third
prize was secured by Mr. Gulliver Speight, Market Har-
borough.

Class 44, for eighteen blooms distinct, was a good test
of cultural skill, and there were again four entrants. In
this instance the first prize was won by Mrs. E. Croft
Murray, Perivale, Ryde; Isle of Wight, who had a rather
uneven series — Dean Hole, Avoca, Colonel R. S. William-
son, William Shean and Mrs. John Laing. A more even
lot won second prize for Mr. F. A. Govett, Holiday House,
Sunningdale, who had several very charming specimen
blooms — The Lyon Rose. Mrs. W. J. Grant, Dean Hole and
Souvenir de Pierre Notting. Third prize was awarded to
Mr. John Hart., Lochinvar, Little Heath, Potter's Bar,
who had Hugh Dickson in fine condition.

In tlie class for six blooms of any Rose except Tea
or Noisette there were eleven competitors, and the
margin of difference in several cases was very narrow. First
prize was won by Rlr. Lewis S. Pawle with fine examples
of Dean Hole. Mr. F. Crawley, Stockwood, Luton, was
second with beautiful blooms of Mme. Melanio Soupert,
and with Hugh Dickson, Mr. F. H. Cooke was adjudged
third. This was a capital competition.

Open to Growers of Fewer than 1,000 Plants.
Eleven entries in the leading class for twelve blooms;
distinct varieties, made an especially fine competition, the
quality in some instances being exceptionally good. The
first prize in tliis class was for the President's Silver Cup.
value five guineas. This was secured by Dr. Charles
Lamplough, who, as usual, had a grand, even, heavy lot
of blooms. They were as follows : Mrs. Foley Hobbs,
Florence Pemberton, Mrs. T. Roosevelt, William Shean,
Mildred Grant, Mrs. W. J. Grant, Frau Karl Druschki,
J B Clark, Mme. Jules Gravereaux, White Maman
Cochet, The Lyon and another. Mr. Lewis S. Pawle,
Beaconsfield, Bucks, was second, showing excellently well.
Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt, Mildred Grant, Dean Hole and
Mme. Constant Soupert were aU good. Third prize was
won by Mr. F. H. Cooke, Birch, Colchester, with a pretty
series.

Open to Growers of Fewer than 750 Plants.
Again there were eleven stands in competition, and tills
in the leading class in this division for twelve blooms,
distinct varieties. First prize was well won by Mr. Cumock
Sawday, Beechfleld, Weybridge, with a fresh, even lot of
blooms. Mrs. Foley Hobbs.. Mildred Grant, Mrs. Jamee
Welch, William Shean, Gloire de C. Guinoisseau, Mrs. J.
Laing and Mrs. Mylesl Kennedy were his best flowers.
Second prize was won by Mr. P. J. Davis, North Warners,
Burgess Hill, good blooms of Mildred Grant and Mrs.
Theodore Roosevelt being noteworthy. Third prize went
to Mr. D. Davics, Witheridge, Beaconsfield, for a good

GARDEN.

-5^=^*i^>?3?

y^

No. 2174.— Vol. LXXVII.

July ig, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes np toe Week 357

CORRESl'ONDKNCE

Rose I,adv Hilling-
don .'. .. .. 358

Statires in the
Greenhouse . . 358

Lilinm Bisanteum. . 358

Blue-llowercd Hy-
drangeas . . . . 359

Habranthus pratensis
in Scotland .. 359

Dwarf plants of So-
lanum Wendlandii 359

Forthcoming events. . 359

KOSF, Garpen

About, garden Koscs 359

Hose Edward Mawley 359
KironES Gaupen

Seasonable notes on
vegetables . . . . 359
Rock and Water Garpen

Stone edgings in the
kitchen garden . . 3t:0
Coloured Plate

Spring Crocuses ,. 361

I'T.OWKR GAItOEN

A handsome border
flower 311 1

Flower Garpen
Iris sibirica and its

group 362

Siberian Irises at

Clandon Park . . 363
Primulas at Monreith 364
Greenhouse
Show and decora-
tive Pelargoniums 364
Gardesino for Beginners
Propagating border
Carnations and

Pinks 365

To destroy weeds on

lawns 366

Gardenino of the Week
For Southf^rn gar-
dens 366

For Northern gar-
dens 366

The Impending Re-
tirement OF Sir
HaKRY J. VEITCH 367
Answers to Corre-
spondents
Flower garden . . 367
Fruit garden . . . . 367
Miscellaneous . . 368
Societies 368

IliliUSTRATIONS.

I mvidia flowering at Norwich 358

stone edgings to the kitchen garden path at Alden-

haiu House, Elstree 3B0

Spring Crocuses Coloured plate

Ostrowskia magnifica 361

A glimpse of the Iris garden at Clandon Park, Surrey 362

Iris siliirica by the lakeside at Kew 363

Iris Snow Queen 364

A promising hybrid Iris 364

Propagating border Carnations and Pinks . . . . 365

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As retjards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated-
It mtist be diMincUy understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE GARDEN ivitt alone
be recognised as acceptance.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Offices: : 20. Tai istock Street, Covent Gorrffn, W.C.

Cutting Delphinium Spikes.— Now that the
flowers of this valuable decorative plant are going
over, it will be found advisable to cut off the old
spikes as soon as they have faded. By doing so
it will encourage a second crop, which, although
not so fine as the first, will be found of great value
both for beautifying the garden and for cutting.
A good watering at intervals during dry weather,
and occasionally with weak liquid manure, will be
found very beneficial.

A Shortage of Plums and Pears.— According
to the monthly report just issued by the Board of
Agriculture, the prospects for tree fruit have
deteriorated considerably since the report issued
a month ago was published. This is attributed to
drought, which caused many fruits to fall prema-
turely, and to attacks by aphides, which have this
year been particularly bad. Although in some
places there are good crops of Apples, the yield
as a whole is expected to be poor, while Plums and
Pears are almost a failure.

A Charming Hardy Annual.- One of the most

beautiful hardy annuals that we have flowering
just now is Clarkia elegans Salmon Queen. This
is grown as a broad edging to the kitchen garden
path and forms almost a low hedge, the plants
being about eighteen inches high. The double
flowers, which are very freely produced, are a
delightful shade of salmon pink. Near by we have
Scarlet Queen, the flowers of which are salmon
scarlet in colour. These two Clarkias ought to
be grown wherever hardy flowers are appreciated.

The Spanish Broom. — Each year as this season
comes round we are reminded of the glorious effects
that are made by the judicious planting of Spartium
junceum, or the Spanish Broom. The flowers are
golden yellow, and this year it is flowering excep-
tionally well. It is not in the least fastidious
in regard to soil, but it prefers a warm, sandy
medium and does not object to a poor, stony one.
In the early stages young plants should be stopped
in order to produce bushy specimens, for when
once the plants become leggy this cannot be
rectified by pruning.

A New Chinese Lily. — Among the list of new
garden plants just published in the Kew Bulletin
appears a new species named Lilium warleyense,
a handsome plant with a general resemblance
to a fine form of L. sutchuenenso. The stem is
about four feet high, without bulbils. The flowers,
twenty or more, are pendulous on slender pedicels
about three inches across, orange red, with promi-
nent chocolate spots, segments recurved. Without
doubt this subject will prove a great acquisition
as a garden plant, although we fail to see why
a new Chinese species shoiild take its specific
name after an English garden. With garden
varieties or hybrids this is quite another matter,
but in the case of an introduced species the name
becomes misleading.

A Valuable Decorative Phlox. — Few hardy
plants are more attractive during late spring and
early summer than the pale blue-flowered Phlox
div.aricata Laphamii, which is well worthy of a
place in every garden. Now that the flowers are
over, a number of young growths will be found
upon the old flowering shoots. These make
excellent cuttings, and should now be taken off
and placed in sandy soil under a hand-light, when
they will readily root and make good plants for
putting out later. An excellent subject for mixing
with them will be found in Sedum spectabile,
which will come into flower after the Phlo.\es.

A Beautiful Flowering Sage. — Few herbaceous

plants blossom for a longer period than Salvia
nemorosa, and few plants are more conspicuous
in a mixed border. A specimen which has been
limited to a dozen growths branches to form a
plant 3 feet or more in diameter by the time the.
first flowers open in early June, and from raid-
June to mid-Augnst it bears its bright bluish
flowers freely. After the majority of the flowers
have fallen there are still the reddish brown calyx
lobes to look forward to, and these stand out well
among surrounding flowers. As it grows in ordinary
garden soil and is easily propagated by cuttings
of young shoots in spring, it is a plant for everyone,
and few people will be likely to find fault with it.
Some know it as S. virgata.

The Double Opium Poppy.— For producing
effective m.isses of colour in the pleasure grounds
with a sm.all amount of trouble it is doubtful
if there is any annual to surpass the Poppy. The
Shirley Poppy (Papaver Rha-as), the Sc.irlel Poppy
(P. commutatum or P. umbrosum), and the Opium
Poppy (P. somniferum) each has its respective
admirers. A large group of the double Opium
Poppy is just now providing a brilliant and imposing
mass of colour .at the south end of the Temperate
House at Kew. Growing about three feet in height-
the large double flowers, in numerous rich and
varied colours, are extremely showy. On the
other side of the Pagoda vista, near the Flagstaff,
a lirge patch of P. commutatum or P. umbrosum,
with its scarlet and black flowers, is equally effective
A Useful Plant for Shady Places.— The common
Tutsan, or Rose of Sharon (Hypericum caly -
cinum), is one of the best plants for growing
beneath the shade of trees, for, although it grows
quite well in the open, it succeeds equally well
under trees, and keeps in good condition right to
the trunk. Throughout the year it is green, and
provides a good carpet ; but diuring June and
July, when bearing its large golden blossoms
freely, it is specially pleasing. Providing the
ground is dug over previous to planting, it re-
quires little further preparation. The plant; may
then be divided and planted in small clumps
9 inches to 12 inches apart, autumn or early spring
being a good season for the work. By cutting the
plant over in March, plenty of vigorous young
shoots may be obtained.

358

THE GARDEN.

[July 19, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Rose Lady Hillingdon. — I am quite satisfied
with Rose Lady Hillingdon. It flowers beauti-
fully at Fribourg on strong and erect stems, and
is of the finest orange apricot hue. Pharisaer is
also an excellent Rose, very free-fiowering and
mildew-proof ; the colour is of rather a salmon
pink shade. — Baronne A. de Graffenried-
ViLLARS, Paris.

Statices in the Greenhouse.— The various
shrubby species of Statice from the Canary Islands,
and the garden forms emanating therefrom, have
long been popular greenhouse plants, their pleasing
blue flowers remaining fresh and bright for a long
time. Some of the annual kinds, too, are very
pretty, one of these, remarkable for its distinctness
and beauty, being S. Suworowii, which was intro-
duced from Turkestan
about thirty years ago.
The manner in which
the spikes are disposed
gives it a decidedly im-
common appearance. In
colour the blossoms vary
from white to pinkish
mauve or lilac. The
white form was recently
given an award of merit
by the Royal Horticul-
tural Society. This
Statice needs to be sown
early in the year and
potted on as the young
plants require it. Good
examples may be grown
m 5-inch pots. — H. P.

Lilium giganteum.—
This King of Lilies does
not, I fear, receive the
attention which its
merits deserve, so that
it is a pleasure to come
across a specimen of it,
which I did the other
day in the garden of Mr.
Charles Campbell,
Cloverlea, C r a m o n d
Bridge, Midlothian. Mr.
Campbell, who is a keen
amatetir, picked up two
bulbs of this Lily six
years ago at an auction
sale for a few pence,
his garden, which lies
is formed of deep loam

readily got rid of, owing to the leaves being smooth.
In addition, it flowers for a long period, namely,
through ths summer and well on into the autumn.
The blossoms of this Dipladenia are about a couple
of inches in length and as much across, the colour
being of the purest white, with a rich orange
yellow throat, the contrast being very marked.
This species, which was introduced by Richard
Pearce of tuberous Begonia fame, first flowered
in Messrs. Veitch's nursery at Chelsea in 1868.
Given a warm greenhouse or intermediate struc-
ture. D. holivit.nsis can be well grown. — H. P.

Hybrid Primulas. — Under the title " Primula
cockbumiana and Its Hybrids" appears a- short
article in The Garden for June 28, page 324,
which is most interesting, as it touches on
a race of plants that are practically in their infancy ;
nevertheless, they have a great future in store.
Here we have been crossing them since their intro-
duction, and have planted some hundreds of crosses
annually, which on blooming have been nothing

A FLOWERING SPRAY OF DAVIDIA INVOLUCRATA, A NEW HARDY TREE FROM CHINA

He planted them in

on a sunny slope and

For five successive

seasons the plants made little growth, and
hope deferred had almost made the heart grow
sick when to his surprise Mr. Campbell's patience
has this season had its reward. The specimens
are not very large, but the foliage and flowers
are about the normal size. The larger specimen,
with seven good blooms, stands 6 feet 3 inches
high. — Charles Comfort.

Dipladenia boliviensis. — This is one of the
smallest-flowered of the Dipladenias, but in many
features it is decidedly one of the best. In the
first place, being a native of Bolivia, it will succeed
under cooler treatment than those which come
from warmer regions ; next, it is far less liable
to the attacks of mealy bug than they are, and
even if the pests effect a lodgment, they are more

more than the type, and it is out experience that
these Primulas do not cross freely. Among
several good hybrids that have appeared here,
one especially bears great promise. It is a cross
between P. buUeyana and P. cockbumiana, the
first named being the seed-bearer. The colour
is a shade of salmon, toning to yellow in the centre.
The plant, blooming for the first time this season,
has borne twenty-one good stems of blooms. One
stem has thrown two adventitious stems from just
below the bottom whorl of bloom, and two other
stems one each. These side stems carried two
whorls each, and the main stems from four to six
each, which were rather closely set together and
gave the plant an extraordinarily floriferous appear-
ance. It is gratifying to note that P. x Excelsior
is perennial, and it is probable that the work of
evolution may have a great bearing in this dii'ec-
tion. — D. Lewis, Totley Hall Gardens, Sheffield.

Rose Mrs. George Norwood.— In your issue of List
week, under " New Roses " at the National Rose
Society's Show, I note you have my seedling, Mrs.
George Norwood, down as grown under glass. It
was grown outside, and it was no fault of mine
if the' cards were placed wrong. — Elisha J.

HiCKS.

Davidia Flowering at Norwich. — I think your
readers may be interested to hear that a Davidia
here has borne twenty-one inflorescences ; not
enough for a great effect, but sufficient to give
one great hopes for its future as an ornamental
tree in this country. — J. A. Christie, The Manor
House, Framingham Pigot, Norwich.

Cypripedium Calceolus. — The English Lady's
Slipper is one of the best of the race of hardy
Cypripediums, and I saw recently an illustration
of how enduring it is under the most adverse circum-
stances. In going through the magnificent gardens
of the Marquis of Ailsa at Culzean Castle, Ayr-
shire, the other day, Mr. R. G. Hepburn, the
gardener, drew my atten-
tion to some plants of
C. Calceolus in flower in
an opening in a thicket
of one of the taller Poly-
gonums. These plants
were in the garden when
Mr. Hepburn took over
his appointment about
two years ago, but were
crowded up and hidden
by the growths of the
tall Polygonum. Room
was made for them by
clearing away some of
these and opening them
up to the light, with the
result that they are doing
well. This is a striking
example of the ease
with which C. Calceolus
will withstand the most
adverse conditions. — S.
Arnott.

A Deteriorated Duke
ot Edinburgh Rose.—
The following incident,
which I have" lately
learned, may he of in-
terest to those readers
of The Garden who pay
special attention to
Roses. A gentleman
living near here bought
and had planted in his
garden about fifteen years ago a plant of the above
Rose. It flourished and for many years yielded its
usual bright scarlet-coloured flowers ; but in course
of time it began to bear, and does still, flowers
of a pink shade, the centre a deeper pink than the
outside. The plant is about six feet to seven feet
in height and four feet to five feet across. I was
told it had never been pruned during the fifteen
years, but had had on one or two occasions just a
piece or two of growth cut away. This item
of Rose news seems to me so out of the ordinary
that I venture to ask three questions, which perhaps
some Rose authority wiil kindly deal with : (i)
Was pink the colour of either or both of the parents
of the above-mentioned Rose ? (2) Did change
and deterioration set in as a result of neglect
of pruning ? (3) Is it common for deteriorating
Roses to change in colour? I thought they
changed only in quality and form. — C. T., Highgate.

July 19, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

359

Blue-Flowered Hydrangeas.~On page 323.

issue June 28, " H. P." lias a very interesting
note nn these popular plants. It is quite true
that when certain preparations are applied to the
soil, blue flowers result. I have had some con-
siderable experience with blue-flowered Hydrangeas,
having had specimens 7 feet through bearing
dozens of blue-flowered heads, a few of the largest
measuring nearly eighteen inches across. Un-
doubtedly there was iron in the soil, but the water
was very " hard," and was conveyed to the gardens
through pipes, being forced up to tanks from
a pond which was filled by a stream, water
trickling into it from bog and peat land on both
sides. Stones on which water dripped from the
pipe taps were soon coloured red. For more than
ten years the flowers never failed to open blue,
but on a few of the plants pink flowers developed
as well as blue ones, and cxmsistently so every
vear. I cannot understand why this should be. The
blue flowers were as deep as Cornflowers. — G. G.

Habranthus pratensis in Scotland.— it is

pleasant to come across the handsome flowers of
Habranthus pratensis in a Scottish garden in the
open border. This was the case the other day,
when the writer observed this Habranthus flower-
ing bravely in one of the borders in the famous
gardens of Culzean Castle, Ayrshire, the seat of
the Marquis of Ailsa. There was a good clump,
which has been established for several years,
and another one was present in another border.
There were a considerable number of bulbs,
bearing quite freely the handsome, trumpet-shaped,
bright scarlet, Amaryllis-like flowers. This plant
has acquired considerable prominence of late,
largely through its exhibition at some of the
London shows, where it has been greatly admired.
Its success at Culzean, although this garden is
highly favoured in the matter of climate, should
encourage its cultivation. It is splendidly grown
in some of the Eastern and Southern Counties of
England, and as a hardy bulb it is worth attempting
in the warmer parts of the north of the three
kingdoms as well. It is properly called Hippe-
astrum pratense, but Habranthus pratensis is
still its best-known appellation. It should be
planted from 4 inches to 6 inches deep. — S. Arnott.
Dwarf Plants of Solanum Wendlandii. — Those
who know this Solanum only as a vigorous-growing
climber are surprised at the way in which it can be
successfully grown as dwarf plants, each carrying
a large head of its pretty lilac-coloured blossoms.
A number of splendid examples were noted at
the Holland House Show, and numerous were the
enquiries as to how they were obtained. Such
plants are really propagated from eyes put in early
in February, and treated just as Grape Vines are.
They are inserted singly into small pots, and plunged
in a gentle bottom-heat. Under these conditions
they soon start into growth, and are shifted into
larger pots when necessary. During the earlier
stages a temperature of 60° to 70° is maintained,
but as the plants make headway a warm green-
house is sufficient for them, as if kept in too high a
temperature they run up weakly. Six-inch pots are
large enough for the strongest examples. — H. P.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

Julv 23. — Flower Shows at Cardiff (two days),
Sevenoaks, and Leamington (two days).

July 24. — Flower Shows at Exning, Roehampton
and Romsey.

July 25. — Cheadle and Cheadle Heath Show
(two days).

July 26. — Fife and Kinross Show.

I THE ROSE GARDEN.

ABOUT GARDEN ROSES.

THERE is no time like the present
for discussing the merits of garden
Roses. One thing is very evident, viz.,
that the Roses we cherish as our
best things in the North are by
no means as satisfactory in the South.
The stronger soils and greater moisture in the
North certainly favour many Roses that are
robust, while the lighter and drier Southern
lands are favourable to weaker constitutions.
The idea of the Rose General Macarthur
being subject to mildew, for instance, makes us
open our eyes in amazement, such a thing being
unknown in moister climates. Then, again,
Lyon Rose is with us so specially liable to that
pest, as well as so straggling in habit, that I should
never admit it in any Rose garden, though for the
sake of its lovely cut blooms I might grant it a
lonely corner near the kitchen garden.

I see little mention of the brilliant George C.
Waud, which is such a welcome addition, as is also
Commandant Felix Faure, an admirable red Rose
that never seems mentioned as one of the specially
desirable Roses to plant. The dwarf and beautiful
Chateau de Clos Vougeot has hardly yet been suffi-
ciently tried in the North, while in the South its
praises are sung already. More important, perhaps,
in the North than in the South is the freedom of the
autumn bloom, and that is a factor in our choice
of some importance. When I see such a Rose as
Dr. O'Donel Browne mentioned as a desirable
Rose, I feel seized with a wild desire to see that
fairy place where it is beautiful as well as vigorous.
While the grand old Rose Baronne de Pr6vost
is still in existence, as I hope and believe it is,
why grow such a coarse and inferior copy ? I
really think the blooms at an exhibition are so
misleading to the innocent and ignorant amateur
that now and again a note of warning is needed.

I oftru see those two good wichuraiana hybrids
Gardenia and Alberic Barbier mentioned as equally
good. In the hand perhaps they may be, but
Gardenia flowers only once and grows so rampantly
that Alberic Barbier, with less excessive vigour
and (with me) absolutely continuous blooming
qualities, never gets its due share of praise. I
think there is a little secret that can be gained by
careful observation of its grovrth and in the way
the annual thinning out of the weaker shoots
that have flowered is carried out ; but I can affirm
that not in one or two gardens only, Alberic Barbier
flowers continuously from May to the end of
October, the only Rose of that breed that is truly
perpetual. Indeed, like Dean Hole, who said that
" if for some offence I were only allowed to grow
one Rose, I think I should nowadays choose .Alberic
Barbier" rather than the Gloire de Dijon, which he
then considered the most perpetual of all Roses.

In the North neither Griiss an Teplitz norMme.
Alfred Carrifere flowers with the same certainty
and profusion as in the South, while it seems to me
that Dorothy Perkins and her two sports Lady
Godiva and White Dorothy have found the secret
of constant and late autumnal blooming, a thing
much to be praised. The hardiness and vigour
of the pernetiana Rose Juliet have been an
agreeable surprise, and the blooms this year
are even beautiful in the North, so we hope for
useful developments in this strain.

Of the single Roses, none, it seems to me, can
compare with Irish Elegance, both as a bush and
for cutting purposes, and this Rose is as yet too

little known and grown in the North. Some day
I hope to hear how that fine Hybrid Tea Mciry
Countess of Ilchester behaves in English gardens.
In the South of France it has proved the finest,
sweetest and most lasting of all Roses, so that if
it proves ultimately a good winter bloomer it will
be a great addition to any Rose garden.

Edward H. Woodall.

ROSE EDWARD MAWLEY.

The present season has particularly suited this
grand Rose. With me it has been by far the best
red Hybrid Tea in the garden, surpassing even
that grand variety Leslie Holland. I am
particularly glad Edward Mawley is turning
out so fine, for it bears such an honoured nam*-
that all rosarians wish it to be worthy of it. I am
convinced it is going to be one of the best crimson
garden Roses, and will be speci.illy beautiful in a
cool season and also in autumn. It is almost
certain to me that Mme. Melanie Soupert was the
seed parent of this Rose, crossed possibly with
Etoile de France. I am hoping that by using
a more double flower, such as George Dickson,
as seed parent we may produce a good double
bright scarlet Hybrid Tea, a colour still wanting
among this class of really good exhibition standard
The Portadown Roses are proving themselves
to be valuable acquisitions ; particularly the recent
varieties. I cannot get myself to admire His
Majesty, but can well believe in Ireland and in
some other parts it will come fine at times ; indeed,
I have had occasional blooms of superb form. *
I hope Messrs. McGredy and Son will continue
to provide us with novelties of the high standard
they are now doing, and I am looldng forward
keenly to the quartet they are putting on the
market this year. Danecroft.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON VEGE-
TABLES.
Cabbages for Spring.— Notwithstanding the

fact that we are fust in the flush of the Green Pea
season, it behoves us to give consideration to the
Cabbages which will assuredly be wanted next spring.
The Green Peas satisfy us now, but they will
not do so then, and in the spring months there is
nothing sweeter than a freshly-cut Cabbage, and
probably nothing healthier, either. At least two
sowings of seeds ought to be made in every garden,
as there must not be such a thing as failure. The
end of the third week of the month is an excellent
time in most seasons ; but should the autunm prove
mild and particularly favourable to progress, there
is a decided chance that these plants will be too
soft to stand the varied weather of the winter. To
be on the safe side, sow again approximately three
weeks later, and there is little danger that the result
of both sowings will be failure. Thin sowing,
early thinning and prompt transplantation are
essential to success. Although it has been in
commerce so many years, I have yet to find the
variety to beat Flower of Spring in any season,
soil or district.

Winter Greens. — The planting out of the
different members of the Cabbage family to produce
fresh green vegetables during the winter months i^
now in active progress, and the opportunity of a
favourable day ought never to be missed. One
cannot, of course, question the desirability of plant-
ing when the weather is showery and the soil

360

THE GARDEN.

[July 19, 1913.

pleasantly moist, because the plants do not then
experience the smallest check ; but waiting beyond
a reasonable time has nothing to commend it.
Given strong, splendidly-rooted plants, there is
no fear of loss, even though the conditions are not
ideal. When it is decided that there shall be no
further waiting, water the ground, or the stations,
heavily in the morning and plant late in the evening
of the same day, soaking afterwards as may be
needed.

Potatoes. — The early Potatoes are coming out
most satisfactorily up to now, and those who have
been buying imported stuff will be appreciating
the immense superiority of tubers dug from their
own gardens and cooked within a couple of hours.
The final earthing of the main crop and late varie-
ties is imminent, and before it is done every plot
should be sprayed with Bordeau.x or Burgundy
mi.\ture as a preventive of the disease. Many
people still labour under the erroneous impression
that spraying does not pay. In a year like igii,

encourage the plants to continue the production
of flowers. See that the soil is maintained
pleasantly moist at the roots, loosen the surface
with hoe or fork, and spread a" thick mulching of
manure along each side of the rows. Water
through this, and do not forget heavy hosing on
the evenings of hot, dry days.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

STONE EDGINGS IN THE KITCHEN
GARDEN.

THE stone edgings to the walks shown
in the accompanying illustration took
the place, some eighteen months ago,
of grass verges, and when first com-
pleted and before the planting had
time to be effective, varying opinions
existed as to which was tlie more attractive.
Now that the various plants have had time

STONE EDGINGS TO THE KITCHEN GARDEiN PATH AT ALDENHAM HOUSE, ELSTREE

when we had continuous drought until well on in
summer, it is possible that there is a waste of time
and material ; but we never know what the weather
is going to be, and those who consistently spray
twice — once at the middle of July and a second
time three or so weeks later, according to the
weather — will find that, taking one season with
another, sprayuig will pay splendidly. A spraying
syringe answers admirably where the area to be
dressed is limited.

Tomatoes. — The plants indoors will be demand-
ing al)undant supplies of water, and probably of
liquid manure, and any neglect will be paid for in
loss of crop. There is no doubt that th^ smaller,
within reason, the receptacle containing the roots,
the better. The thrifty plant is short-jointed, sets
its crop splendidly, and when the necessity for it
arises, feeding can easily be done.

Green Peas. — it is imperative that the pods of
these shall be gathered as closely as possible, to

to become established — and quite a host of
subjects are included — it is unanimously declared
to be a fine feature. These rock edgings to
the paths may be constructed at very little
cost, the stone being the greatest item, and
if economically placed, some good, large spaces
may be provided for the stronger-growing subjects,
which create a fine effect when seen in masses ;
and, with very little trouble, the natural soil and
drainage, if not altogether suitable, may be
improved. The stone used here was fairly flatfish
sandstone, wliich needs to be firmly embedded, and,
if possible, some good soil added to provide a good
rooting medium underneath as well as between
the crevices. Pockets may be formed of varying
sizes, some on a level with the walk, others slightly
raised. Generally, we used two tiers of stone,
and though our walks are perfectly straight and the
width even throughout, the broken-up edging of
stone seems quite in order, and it is evident that

equally as good an effect could be produced with
winding or curved paths and of irregular widths.
The walks in the kitchen garden here run north
and south, east and west, and though large pieces
of rock do not exist to form shade, positions may
be found to suit almost all plants, and the taller
herbaceous plants, with the pyramid fruit trees
at the back, assist in producing shaded positions.
Where it is desirable to include rock and alpine
plants, and a rockery proper does not exist or a
suitable place cannot be found to build one, then
the present idea is worth consideration, as the
plants are always easily examined, and watering,
damping, cleaning and top-dressing may be carried
out in the most expeditious manner.

The number of plants that may be utilised is
really surprising, also the quantity needed to
plant it. The first season the commoner subjects
were planted lavishly to produce an immediate
effect ; but these grew generally with such remark-
able vigour that last autumn and in the early spring
stringent measures had to be taken to
reduce them and substitute better-
class plants. Annuals in our case
are left out entirely, and only a
few of the dwarfest and best rock
shrubs included, the Helianthemums
ui variety making fine patches of
colour in the sunniest spots. The
smaller plants of less vigorous habit
are grouped together in small colonies
m well-drained soil, so that they
do not become so readily neglected
and lost as they might be if iso-
lated. The names of a few subjects
that have done particularly well
with us may not be out of place.
I'he following are in flower now :
Saponaria ocymoides, Achillea rupes-
tris, A. tomentosa, Saxifraga Coty-
ledon, S. pedatifolia, S. Aizoon recta.
Campanula carpatica, Veronica pros-
trata, Armeria maritima alba, A.
laucheana, Viola gracihs, V. bosniaca,
V. Papilio, Phlox pilosa, Dianthus
Napoleon III., D. Duchess of Fife,
D. superbus, D. fragrans, Primula
japonica, P. pulverulenta, Gypso-
phila repens rosea, G. prostrata,
.\chillea serbica, Dianthus caesius
l^randiflorus. Geranium lancastriense,
lirinus alpinus, Aubrietia tauricola,
Potentilla Miss Willmott, Hutchinsia
alpina, Linaria alpina rosea, CEnothera
ovata, QJ. taraxifolia and Campanula G. F. Wilson.
Other subjects that have been particularly fine
are Aubrietia Lavender, A. Moerheimii, A. J. S.
Baker (the earliest to flower). Erysimum pul-
chellum. Ranunculus montanus, Saxifraga bathoni-
ensis, S. Stansfieldii, S. Camposii and Veronica
repens. The foregoing are just a few of the more
vigorous growing and those that have established
themselves freely and flowered profusely. A
few of the choicer plants that appear to be doing
well are Dianthus neglectus, D. alpinus magnificus.
Campanula muralis, C. Zoysii, C. Elatines, C.
Profusion, Morisia hypogoea, Achillea Kellereri,
Oxalis enneaphylla, Potentilla pygmaea. Geranium
argenteum, Geum montanum, Gentiana verna,
Linaria concolor, Soldanella minima alba, Wahlen-
bergia vincaflora, Pentstemon pygmsea. Phlox
Douglasii, Viola pedata bicolor, V. glabella and
Asperula suberosa. E. Beckett.

Aldenimm House Gardens, hlsttee^ Herts,

Snf'ph'iuciit lo I' HE GARDEN, J idv [i^th, 1913-

THREE BEAUTIFUL CROCUSES.

Yellow: C. chrysanthus E. A. Bowles. Mauve; C. Sieberi. Purple & Buff: C. Imperati.

Hudson S- Kearns, Ltd.. Printers, London. S.B.

Jui.v 19, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

361

COLOURED PLATE.

PliATE 1474.

SPRING CROCUSES.

IHE triumvirate of beautiful Crocuses
so well show-n in the coloured plate
presented with this issue recall one

unfeathered white forms appear to breed true
when self-fertilised, as do so many true albinos,
and are most likely Mendelian recessives.

C. Sieberi comes from Greece, but yet is a hardy
and robust species. It has a coarsely-reticulated
corm tunic, and does not seem to be so palatable
to mice as some of the species mth thinner coats.

T

■ of this season's spring shows at Vmcent Its colour is a delightfully cool shade of lilac. A

A Square, when these flowers were shown very bright orange throat and rich scarlet stigmata

by Messrs. Barr. I noted at the time greatly add to its beauty,
how delightfully their colourings blended, a.id was There is a richly-coloured form of C. Sieberi
delighted when, some time later, I was shown the sometimes sold as C. atticus and also as C. Sieberi
clever portraits by which they had been immorta- purpureus, but the gem of this species is the form
lised. Among really good gardeners by
far too few give due place to the early-
flowering spring species of Crocus. -Any-
thing that will flower in January and
February in our climate is of value ; but
when it possesses beauty and fragrance,
as well as precocity, it deserves honour
and attention. The garden cannot be
worth digging in that will not provide
enough sunny nooks fcir a dozen or
•-o clumps of early Crocuses, for not
only clioice ledges of the rock garden
backed by a heat-radiating stone, but
also a bare spot at the foot of some
deciduous shrub, or large-leaved her-
baceous plant that must be placed well
away fpim neiglibours, is admirably suited
for spring Crocuses. I find the mixed
borders are wonderfully brightened at tlie
dull time of the yeior if groups of twenty
to fifty Crocus roots are planted round
such plants, especially towards the back
ot the beds, where I notice that sparrows
do not pull them to bits quite so badly as
wlien they are closer to the edge of the bed.

Two of the species shown in the coloured
plate are well suited for this maimer nf
planting — Imperati ai:d Sieberi — and
both of them, in an ordinary season, should
be bright with flowers before January is
over. Being inexpensive, they should be
planted freely, and if allowed to seed
will soon spread. The form of Imperati
shown is rather exceptional in the lack of
purple featherings on the buff outside of
the outer segments, and is, perhaps, not
so beautiful as the more ordinary form
in which the featherings are well marked.
C. Imperati varies endlessly in this
respect, and is one of the very few-
Crocuses in which markings change from
season to season. I raised a number of
seedlings of it and selected some very
distinct forms and grouped them in the
rock garden, but the next season I was
horribly disappointed to find my patch
of self-coloured buff ones were as striped,
mottled and ring - straked as Jacob's
variegated flock of sheep, while one
beauty I had selected for its wide
featherings was scarcely striped at all
noticed the same tendency to seasonal variation
in seedlings of C. versicolor, but am thankful to
say all others that I know remain constant.

C. Imperati is generally collected from the
neighbourhood of Naples, and varies very much,
beautiful white forms occurring sparingly, some
without external feathering, and others as heavily
marked as the typical form with lilac ground
colour. From this latter form I have raised
some very pretty pale-coloured seedlings, which
are remarkably robust and large flowered. The

unless the Balkan Question can be speedily settled
and Crete become a more law-abiding country.

The last of these Three Graces is one of the greatest
acquisitions to our list of spring-flowering bulbs.
It is one of a set of seedlings raised at Haarlem
in Messrs. C. G. van Tubergen's Zwanenberg nur-
sery. Mr. John Hoog of that firm kindly sent me
blooms of this race some years ago, and my delight
in their beauty ended in his generously sending me
corms of them and naming the one here shown
after me. They are a remarkable break in this
very variable species, being quite three times as
large as wild forms, but retaining all the good
characters of the species. As may easily
be seen from the drawing, the Gourd
shape of the flowers of C. chrysanthus is
not spoiled by the increase of size, and the
soft sulphur yellow of its mother (the
var. pallidus from the Bithynian Olympus)
has been inherited by the babe, with the
addition of a richer tone of brown madder
markings at the throat. I wish I possessed
the vigour and good temper of this my
namesake ! I know no other Crocus of
the annulate section that looks so happy
and smiles back at the winter sun so
radiantly. Although the July air is sweet
with Roses and Honeysuckle, Lavender
and Lilies, it is not too soon for me to
sound a note of warning that all this will
pass away and January days come again,
with nothing belter for the nose than the
wet leaves and moss in the woods, and
then if you have tucked away a few
plump corms of these early Crocuses in
suitable nooks, not later than September,
1 know you will bless me when a lew
Ijlooms brighten the brown earth or a
tightly-rolled bud is brought into the
warm room and, bursting open, gives out
that mixed fragrance of Primroses, honey
.md saffron that seems to epitomise spring
itself and may always be found in a young
bloom of any ot these three forms of
Crocus. E. A. Bowles.

FLOWER GARDEN.

(U<

T

0STROWSKI.\ M.\GNIFICA, .\N .\DMIRABLE PL.\NT FOR A
WARM CORNER.

special
crimson
I have

known as C. Sieberi versicolor. It comes from
Crete, and has not been collected for some years
owing to the disturbed state of that island and the
evil reputation for bandits of its mountains. In
this variety the ground colour is a glistening white,
the orange throat and scarlet stigmata being
even more conspicuous than in the type form ;
but its chief charm lies in the markings of the
outer segments, which vary much in size and shape,
and are of a rich crimson purple which contrasts
vividly with the whit and orange. It is rather
curious that although the stigmata are unusually
large in these forms, they are very shy seeders, and so
are likely to remain scarce in gardens for many years

HANDSOME BORDER
FLOWER.

(OSTROWSKIA MAG.NIFICA.)

HIS really fine, though some-
what tender plant is seldom
seen as a border flower, owing
ro difficulties in its culture.
It requires very sandy soil
in full sun, and it is worth
noting that it is more often killed by damp
than by hard weather. Now and then one
sees cut blooms of the beautiful Ostrowskia
at flower shows. Such blooms are invariably grown
by expert plantsmen, who give this plant special
treatment. The tuberous root is exceedingly brittle,
and must be handled with care. In ordinary soil a
hole should be made with a crowbar at least 2 feet
deep and filled with sharp silver sand, leaving the
crown of the plant 3 inches under the surface. In
winter, protection by means of dry litter will be
found beneficial. The flowers, mauve in colour,
resemble those of a huge Campanula, to which genus
it is a near relative. This is the only species of
Ostrowskia known to science. It was introduced
from Central Asia in 1887, and is named in honour
of the Russian botanist Ostrowski.

362

THE GARDEN.

[July 19, 1913.

IRIS SIBIRICA AND ITS GROUP.

Iris sibirica is a moisture-loving species, and
though it will do well on a border, it is never so
fine as when grown so near to water that its
roots may enter therein. There are many forms
of this species, but a good selection of the
common blue is, 1 believe, the most effective.
Messrs. Barr and Sons have a kind they call
Bhie King, and this, no doubt, is good.

A GLIMPSE OF THE IRIS GARDEN AT CLANDON PARK, SURREY.

The cultivation of Iris sibirica presents no diffi-
culty. It divides easily, and may readily be raised
from seed. Division and replanting should be
effected immediately after flowering. The re-
cognised varieties of this species are few, and are
not of botanical consequence. A narrow-leaved
form is known as angustifolia, a form with stiffly
erect, sharp-pointed leaves and pale blue and white

flowers is known as acuta, and another with white
flowers, the segments of which are crisped, is the
I. flexuosa of the Botanical Magazine, t. 1163.
The variety orientalis, which is botanically distinct,
Mr. Rickatson Dykes has constituted a distinct
species, and I have no doubt he is right. While
the pedicels of I. sibirica are of unequal length, and
some very long, the capsules short and globose,
and the seeds flat and D-shaped, I. orientalis has
the pedicels of more equal length, the capsules
longer and trigonal
and the seeds thick
and cubical. There
is a good figure in
Mr. Rickatson Dykes'
" The Genus Iris."
To this species belongs
the ornamental form
known as Snow
Queen.

The group of I.
sibirica is beardless
and rhizomatous, with
linear leaves, and
may practically be
recognised by having
a hollow stem. Mr.
Dykes, however, in-
cludes two with solid
stems — I. Clarkei, a
handsome ally of the
hollow - stemmed I.
Delavayi, with purple-
violet flowers, the
falls with gold at the
base and white varie-
gation just above,
which has been
classed with the
Pseud-evansias, and
tends to possess a
crest and rudimentary
beard, and I. pris-
matica, which has a
reduced or nearly
obsolete perianth and
Siandards only one-
sixth <if an inch
broad. This is not
oniamenta). It can
be confused with no
other, though, by its
small standards, it
recalls I. setosa and
I. Hookeri. Both
these differ by having
sword-sliaped leaves
— in the case of the
first green, and in the
case of the latter
glaucescent. Of the
remaining five species
in this group all are
new, with the excep-
tion of I. Delavayi,
three described by Mr.
Dykes, and one, I.
Wilsoni, by Mr. C. Wright. For the present pur-
pose we may note them as follows, according to
the striking feature of colour:

I. Delavayi (Micheli).— This has falls of deep
violet blue colour with white streaks, the standards
erect, of paler violet colour. In my experience
this plant has been disappointing ; it has not
flowered freely, and it has twice died out in the

very position it ought to have liked. It has a
stout, creepmg root stock, with leaves 2 feet
to 2i feet long by half an inch to two-thirds of
an inch broad. They are erect and strongly ribbed.
The peduncle is longer than the leaves, the spathes
are 2 inches to 2J inches long, lanceolate, green,
with scarious tips, ana the pedicels are of the same
length. The flowers are 2 inches to 2J inches
across, the tube half an inch long. The fruit is
sharply angled, and about four times as long as
broad. A figure will be found in the Botanical
Magazine, 1899, t. 7661. It is native of the
marshes of Yunnan.

I. Bulleyana (Dykes). — This is an ally of I.
Clarkei, with standards of blue-purple, and falls
mottled with the same colour on a creamy ground.
From I. Clarkei this is easily distinguished by its
hollow stem ; the rhizome is slender, widely creep-
ing ; leaves ensiform, shining above, glaucescent
below ; stem about a foot high ; spathes two-
flowered ; valves green, acute. This is native of
China, and probably came from the province of
Yunnan. It is, so far, doing well in the Cambridge
Botanic Garden in a moderately moist bed of the
bog garden.

I. Forrest! (Dykes). — This is a lovely yellow-
flowered species, and it is distinguished from the
older I. Wilsoni by having pedicels which do not ex-
ceed an inch in length. The leaves, too, are narrow
and grassy, with polislied upper surface and glau-
cescent under surface, while those of I. Wilsoni are
more Uke those of the Oriental forms of I. sibirica.
It is distinctly an acquisition. The rhizome is
slender ; the leaves linear, about a foot long and a
quarter of an inch broad ; the stem leafy, and about
a foot high ; spathes one or two flowered, green,
acute, and 2 inches or 3 inches long ; the tube is
broad, half an inch long ; falls oblong cuneatc ;
the blades almost vertical and of very obtuse
aspect in the Cambridge plant ; the claw veined,
with brown standards, oblong lanceolate ; crests
quadrate. This was found in open mountain
meadows on the eastern flank of the Lichiang
Range in North-West Yunnan. It appears to do
well in the Cambridge Botanic Garden, planted
in the bog garden in a bed that is moist but not
wet.

I. Wilsoni (C. H. Wright).— This is of yellow
ciilour, the falls pale yellow, marked on the lower
half with purple veins. In the case of I. Forresti
flowered at Cambridge marking was slight, and
consisted of dots in lines rather than distinct veins.
The rhizome is shortly creeping ; leaves linear
acuminate, about two feet long and about one-
third of an inch wide, flaccid and minutely scabrid ;
the scape is only a third as long as the leaves ;
spathes green, broadly lanceolate acuminate,
3 J inches long ; pedicels 2| inches to 4 inches long ;
tube green, about one-third of an inch long ; falls
2 inches long and three-quarters of an mch broad,
pale yellow, marked with purple veins in the lower
halt ; standards erect, oblong lanceolate, about
one and a-half inches long and one-third of
an inch broad, yellow ; filaments yellow ; anthers
white ; style branches yellow ; crests obtuse,
erosely denticulate. \ figure of the type is given
in the Botanical Magazine, 1910, t. 8340. The
variety major has shorter pedicels, a perianth tube
half as long again, longer and broader falls,
standards of the same length but narrower, longer
ovary, purple-marked filaments and with style arms
pale brown at the midrib and towards the apex.
This species was discovered by Mr. E. H. Wilson
in Western Hupeh, growing in grasslands near
Fang Hsien at about seven thousand f^et above

July 19, 1913-]

THE GARDEN.

363

sea-level. It was collected for Messrs. James
Veitch and Sons.

I. chrysographes (Dykes). — The flowers of this
plant are of the richest dark red-purple, velvety in
texture, with central and broken flanking lines of
gold. It is undoubtedly a very fine plant, and was
originally raised by Miss Willmott in her garden at
Warley Place, Esse.x. The falls are 3 inches long,
and the blades, which are twice as long as the
haft, droop almost perpendicularly. The flanges on
each side of the haft are marked with gold on a red-
purple ground. The standards are long and narrow,
poised at an angle of about 45°, and point outwards
as in Clarkei and Delavayi. According to the figure
in the Botanical Magazine, i(ji2, t. 8433, they are

I. Forresti and I. chrysographes strike me as
very valuable new plants. The particulars here
given of all the new species I have taken chiefly
from the original descriptions.
Botanic Garden, Cambridge. R. Irwin Lynch.

SIBERIAN IRISES AT CLANDON
PARK.

Irises in varied and rich tones of colour form the
chief feature in summer in the Earl of Onslow's
garden at Clandon Park, Surrey. An immense
border, stretching along the lakeside, is filled with
Irises from end to end, creating a scene of un-
speakable splendour at flowering-time. I. sibirica

are about eighteen inches higher than I. Kaempferi,
and are planted in heavy, loamy soil approaching
clay ; in fact, the roots penetrate into clay, and in
this they thrive and flower for quite a long period.
It is most essential that the seed-pods be cut off
immediately after flowering, or the plants will
suffer and not be as strong for the next season's
flowering. I. sibirica alba maxima does well
here ; so also does I. sibirica Snow Queen. These
two, to ray mind, are by far the best of the whites ;
th3 former is the taller of the two, has a greater
abundance of flowers, and is more graceful. Snow
Queen is much the larger flower and a more pure
white. The stems of this variety are not as tall
as I. sibirica alba, but the purity and size of the

IRIS SIBIRICA. BY THE LAKESIDE AT KEW.

narrowly spoon-shaped. The stems are apparently
one-headed, from 15 inches to 18 inches long, and
bear one or two reduced leaves. They are less
hollow than those of I. sibirica. The leaves are
linear, about half an inch or less in width, and
15 inches to 18 inches long. They curve grace-
fully outwards, so that the flowers rise well above
them. This is one of the finest of Irises, and is
very floriferous. With Mr. Dykes plants flowering
for the first time produced four or six flower-stems.
It is native of Western Szechuan in China, and was
found by Mr. E. H. Wilson growing in thickets
near Kuan Hsien from 7,000 feet to 11,000 feet
above sea-level.

and its varieties are there in magnificent clumps,
and in writing of these Mr. H. W. Blake, the able
head-gardener, makes the following observations :
" These are perhaps the most delicate and elegant
of all the small flowering Irises. The grassy
foliage and long stems, with flowers varying in
colour from pure white to the darkest blue, make
them most valuable for decorative purposes, and,
above all, if grown in large masses they make grand
subjects for the border. They will grow in almost
any soil, but prefer a moist situation in full sun.
Here at Clandon they are grown on the top side of
the border of a large lake, while on the lower side, in
still moister soil, are I. Kaempferi. The I. sibiricas

flower far surpass I. sibirica alba maxima.
Several other varieties are grown at Clandon ;
among others, I may mention I. sibirica and I.
sibirica orientalis, both splendid varieties of the
blue or purple colour. Unquestionably the best of
the blue varieties is the result of a cross between
I. sibirica and I. jibirica orientalis (see illustration,
page 364). So far it is unnamed. It has the
habit of I. sibirica, while the flower is in size
and shape that of I. sibirica orientalis, but
of a much darker blue than that variety ;
the stems are tall and the foliage grassy, as in
I. sibirica, which make it valuable for decorative
purposes."

364

THE GARDEN.

[July ig, 1913.

PRIMULAS AT MONREITH.

The other day I had an opportunity of seeing the
Primulas in the garden of Sir Herbert E. Maxwell,
Bart., at Monreith, Wigtownshire, and some
interesting points were observed. P. coc.kbumiana

IRIS SNOW QUEEN, THE BEST WHITE
SIBERIAN VARIETY. {See page %6 J,.)

proved to be biennial there, P. pulverulenta all
died, while, rather curiously, P. Poissonii, which
by most is found more tender than P. pulverulenta,
has stood the winter and has been flowering
splendidly. P. littoniana stood the winter, but
did not flower this year, although looking strong
and vigorous. P. bulleyana has again proved itself
one of the best of the newer Primulas ; P.
beesiana has done well, and, associated with
P. bulleyana, is much prettier than many
would be prepared to admit did they see it with
other flowers, the colour not appealing to every-
one. P. Forrestii, which has been found a difiicult
subject in many places, looks as if it would succeed
well, planted in the wall garden at Monreith. Unlike
some of the other Primulas from China, it is said
to do best in a dry position, and this it is receiving
at Monreith, with apparently satisfactory results.

although it has not flowered as yet. P. Poissonii
is e.xtremely fine, and has sent up handsome spikes
in the border, even finer than I have seen it at
Glasnevin, where it used to grow well in a moist
place near the lake. At Monreith it is very hand-
some, and seeing it thus makes one regret the lack
of success with it. P. Veitchii does very well
in the border at Monreith. Of those mentioned
now, P. coekbumiana, P. pulverulenta, P. bulleyana,
P. beesiana, P. Veitchii and P. Poissonii were in
tlie ordinary border. P. Forrestii was in the wall
garden in several places. P. luteola and P. littoni-
ana were at the edge of a bed prepared for Lilies,
and, one may add, a fine lot of P. capitata was
growing in a similar position. P. japonica is very
well cultivated at Monreith, and a specially good
Inrm of P. rosea is thriving. Saxatile Primulas are
aliii cultivated with success. S. Arnott.

THE GREENHOUSE.

SHOW

AND DECORATIVE
GONIUMS.

PELAK

THOUGH some sections of Pelargoniums
are fully as popular as. if not more so
than, they ever were, there are otiurs
but little grown nowadays. Among
these last must be included the slimv
Pelargonium, which was at one liiju'
very generally met witli. True, show Pelargoniums
are often referred to, but most of the dift'erent
kinds included under that head at the present day
do not at all conform to the old florists' ideal of
tliat flower. The main characteristics of the
^how Pelargonium of old were a flower as marly
.qiproaching a circular shape as possible, with the
upper segments more or less blotched, in many
rases sufficient to almost cover the entire petals,
while the lower ones were self-coloured or nearly so.
N')w, many of the so-called show Pelargoniums
long rightly to the decorative class ; that is to say,
that in which the shape of the flower and markings
are quite subordinate to a sturdy habit and pro-
fusion of bloom. It is this class which appeals so
strongly to the market-grower, with whom very few
of the true show Pelargoniums were at all popular.
The last extensive raiser of show Pelargoniums
was the late Mr. Foster of Clewtr Manor, near
Windsor, whose new varieties, which were annually
distributed by Mr. Charles Turner of Slough,
used thirty years or so ago to form one of the
■atures of the season. One great object aimed at
y Mr. Foster was the production of bright-coloured
kinds, in which he succeeded in a remarkable
manner. This was, however, accomplished by so
much in and in breeding that the constitution of
the plants became greatly weakened, the habit
being thin and the flower clusters small. This
led to other raisers working on different lines and
the increased development of the decorative section,
which has now practically taken the place of the
show Pelargoniums. Another class that has almost
disappeared from cultivation is the once-popular
fancy Pelargoniums, whose flowers are borne
in the greatest profusion. They are, however,
too small for present-day ideas, when in flowers
of all kinds size seems to be the most appreciated.
Valuable as all these Pelargoniums are for the
embellishment of the greenhouse, they are now
in many cases getting past their best, and
must be taken in hand for their propagation or
culture another year. When the plants are taken
from the greenhouse, a good plan is to stand thera
out of doors for a week or ten days in a spot fully
exposed to the sun, giving them at the same time

very little water. Then they should be cut back
hard and laid on their sides for a time. This will
encourage the formation of shoots, and as soon as
these make their appearance the plants must be
stood upright. When the new shoots are about
half an inch in length is a good time to repot the
plants. They should be shaken quite clear of the
old soil, have any straggling roots shortened
back, and be repotted into comparatively small
pots. Then, whether placed in a frame or green-
house, plenty of air should be given, the object
being to encourage as short and sturdy a growth
as possible, as upon this depends the production
of leaves as close to the pot as possible. The
earliest of the plants so treated may be shifted
into their flowering pots in the autumn, and the
others in early spring. A compost largely
consisting of moderately heavy loam is very

A PROMISING HYBRID IRIS BY THE
LAKESIDE, CL.\NDON PARK.

suitable for Pelargoniums, while it should also
he pressed down firmly, as light soil and
loose potting are conducive to soft, sappy
growth. Cuttings may be selected when the
plants are cut down. H. P.

July 19, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

365

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

PROPAGATING BORDER CARNATIONS AND PINKS.

THESE are two of our most popular
border plants, which rarely fail to
afford a lot of pleasure to the culti-
vator. The condition of the plants
varies in different parts of the country
and soils. It is a fact that in order
ti) maintain a quite healthy stock of plants, fre-
(liU'Ut propagation is necessary. In some light soils
tilt plants will live longer than in others of a
similar nature, but in a different part of the country.
Usually, I have foimd that those plants established
in a well-worked medium to heavy loam last the
longest in prime condition, producing "grass"
of exceptional strength and large, well-coloured
blossoms. In all instances, however, propagation
is needful every year, in order to reap the
very best results these plants are capable of
yielding.

Layering Carnations. — These plants are readily
increased by the layering of available side growths —
those formed near the outer part of the parent plant
and convenient for placing flat on the border near
tliem. The work may be extended over a con-
siderable period, the month of July being very
suitable. I have experimented with and successfully
layered the plants as late as September in a light,
sandy soil ; but, of course, such late propagation
is not advisable. Those I layered in September
were not detached from the parent plants until
tlic following spring. A nice open compost,
SI line pegs or flat stones, and a sharp knife are
till' main requisites in layering. I^rocure some old
In.iin in which the grass has died about two months
previously, pass it through an inch-mesh sieve,
use half loam, as sifted, and half-rotted leaf-soil.
To one bushel of the combined parts add one peck
of road grit or a 7-inch potful of coarse silver
'sand. Mix thoroughly and it is ready for use.

In Fie. A, at No. i, the older stems of the plants
are shown. Nos. 2, 2, 2 represent shoots suitable
fc5r layering, and No. 3 one layered in the prepared
compost, No. 4. By raaldng a hollow, as shown,
and filling it with the compost, a more regular
state of moisture is secured, and this conduces

THIS DIAGRAM WILL TEACH THE BlvGINNER HOW TO L.\YER CARNATIONS.

to early root formation. TJie basal leaves must
be removed Ironi the layer, as shown at No. 3 ;
then make a slanting, lengthwise cut through a
joint, keeping the lip open by inserting grit or sand,
and make the layer secure by inserting a peg as
shown, or laying on it a flat stone about three inches
wide. Cover the stem well with the new compost,
and water as required to maintain a regular state
of moisture. If the peg is inserted as shown at
No. 5, the lip will be kept open ; if driven in as
shown at No. 6, the lip will be closed, and then
root action will be retarded. Pegs made of ordinary
wood, or of Bracken Fern, as shown at No. 7,
or wire pegs as shown at No. 8, may be used.
No. 9 shows the stone recommended, and No. 10
tile new roots when commencing to grow.

Wlien Sufficiently Rooted take up the layers,
cutting off the stem as shown in Fig. B at No.'i,
and when replanting or potting just cover the
roots, No. 2. No. 3 depicts a layer potted in
a 3-inch pot ; No. 4, a badly-rooted layer, the
result of cutting the stem too far through at first
and negkrting to give sufficient water.

Propagating Pinlis. — Cuttings or pipings are
taken and inserted in a cool border facing north,
if one is available. As the cuttings are removed
from the plants, place them in a vessel of water.
When- prepared for insertion in the soil, put
them in another vessel of water ; never allow them
to become dry. The two lower leaves must be
removed, as shown by the dark lines No. 5, and the
stem, through the joint, may be slit open. No. 6
shows a cutting rooting nicely when so treated,
but it is not absolutely necessary to slit open the
stem. No. 7 depicts the right way to remove the
leaf from the joint — by pulling — and No. 8 the
wrong way — by cutting it off. If the stem is
severed midway between the joints, as denoted at
No. 9, roots would not form in many cases, but
the stem would shrivel and decay, as shown at
No. 10. Choice varieties, grown in low-lying
districts, should be wintered in frames. G.G.

AND THIS ONE HOW TO MAKE AND ROOT PINK CUTTINGS.

TO DESTROY WEEDS ON LAWNS.

Whatever method of destroying lawn weeds
is employed, whether it be hand weeding or the
application of some chemical substance, it is
advisable to stretch two lines, about three feet
apart, across the plot. That portion of turf
enclosed by the lines should be treated, then one
line moved to a similar distance beyond the other
and that enclosed portion treated. The process
is repeated until the whole of the lawn has been
done. By adopting this plan there is no danger
of any portion being missed, and if chemicals are
applied a more even distribution is ensured.

366

THE GARDEN.

[July 19, iqi3.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHtiRN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Early Chrysanthemums. — These have made
exceptionally good growth so far this season,
notwithstanding the dry time during June, and
as the lateral growths are now fairly long, they
should be carefully tied. Aphis is still somewhat
troublesome, so the tips should be regularlj; sprayed,
or the buds, which will soon be showing, may
become deformed.

Disbudding. — Good quality blooms may be
obtained bv judicious disbudding, and many of
the early varieties may be so treated as soon as
they appear. Alter this the plants must not be
allowed to get dry at the roots, and a regular
system of feeding should be adopted, just as though
they were in pots, using a little artificial manure
during wet weather.

Sweet Peas. — These ought to be making a brave
show, even those sown late in the open ground.
To preserve a good continuation of bloom, keep
all the stale blooms picked off regularly, and never
allow the plants to suffer a check through extreme
drought at the roots. Feed with natural or
artificial manure at least once a week, and, pro-
viding the plants are not suffering from streak,
this should keep them growing vigorously.

Seed-Saving. — It often happens that certain
plants of varieties stand out from their fellows,
both as regards vigour in the plants and colour
in the bloom. .Such plants are worth marking,
and if it is desired to save seed, these are the ones
that are likely to give the best results.

Annuals such as Asters, Zinnias, Coreopsis
and Salpiglossis mav require staking to prevent
them being damaged by wind or rain, and during
hot, dry weather a good watering should be given
occasionally. If liquid manure is at hand, this
should be used in preference to clear water.

Plants Under Glass.

Chrysanthemums. — Many of the Japanese
varieties have thrown premature buds this season,
probably owing to the extreme heat during the
latter part of Mav, and to get them to throw buds
again as earlv as possible, after the end of this
month the plants must be kept growing well.
Those that are well rooted may be given the assist-
ance of a little soot -ir cow-manure water, not
too strong at first, but increasing it towards the
end of the month.

Syringing. — .Ml the plants should be well
svringed every hot day, either once or twice, as
time' permits, and strict attention must be given
to keeping the tips of the shoots free from aphis
and thrips. These latter are apt to be trouble-
some at this season. Spraying seems the only
remedy, and if thrips are noticed it is best to spray
at once, as much damage is done even if left only
a day or two.

Browallia speciosa, if potted on into flowering
pots now, will give a good show of bloom during
the autumn and winter months. A fairly light
compost of leaf-soil, peat, loam and sand suits
them best. If the plants are inclined to bloom,
the points of the shoots should be pinched out.
This will induce a more bushy habit of growth
as well as retard the flowering period. A frame
will suit them well for a time, giving a little shade
during the very bright weather.

Bouvardias rooted in the spring and grown on
should also be ready for transferring into 6-inch
pots, and the same soil and treatment as advised
above will suit them well, at least till they are well
rooted, when they will stand more airy treatment.
Older plants that mav have been planted out in
frames should be liberallv supphed with water
at the roots, and anv of the long shoots that are
growing too freely should be pinched back so as
to preserve a nicely-balanced plant.

Violets have not had quite the amount of ram
that they like, and should be well watered at least
once a week, giving a sprinkling of soot between
the plants before watering. This, I think, is a
little help in keeping spider under — a pest which
is very apt to be troublesome during dry weather.
Should it attack the plants badly, endeavour to
spray the under part of the foliage with a mixture
of sulphur and soft soap.

The Kitchen Garden.

Perennial Spinach. — Where this is in demand,
a good breadth should now be sown in rows from
1 8 inches to 2 feet apart, eventually thinning the
plants to about a foot apart in the rows. Sown at
this date, the plants do not get so large as those
sown earlier ; but the growth, I thmk, is main-
tained later in the season, and the resulting leaves
are much more tender.

Brussels Sprouts. — Before these become too large
the soil should be pulled up to them on either side
to maintain the plants in an upright position,
and if the soil is light, there is no harm in giving
it a thorough good treading all round the plants
when in a damp condition.

Celery. — Keep all Celery well supplied with
water, both early and late planted. For very early
digging one or two rows should be earthed up at
once, but not before the plants have had a thorough
good soaking of manure-water. Add the soil a
little at a time, this being preferable to burying
the hearts of plants at one operation.

Turnips. — Make a sowing or two of Turnips
during the next few days for autumn use, following
this lip at the end of' the month for later use.
Red Globe and Golden Ball are good varieties for
late use, though it is wise to sow one of the quick-
growing white varieties to pull while the other
varieties are maturing.

Fruits Under Glass.

Tomatoes. — Look well after the plants that
are settmg their fruits, as these will come in well
for early autumn use. Give a top-dressing of soil
and manure to the pots as they require it. For
winter fruiting a sowing should be made of Winter
Beauty, Sunrise, or some such medium-sized
variety. Do not give too much heat during
germination, afterwards treating the plants as
hardily as possible, so as to have good, stocky
plants' with a set or two of fruit on ready for plant-
ing or potting during September or early October.
Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to F.. Mocatta, Esq.)

IVoburn Place Gardens, Addlfstoiie, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.
Transplanting Biennials. — Wallflowers. Sweet

Williams and other biennials should be trans-
planted before they g?t weakened through over-
crowding. No manure will be required, but the
ground, after being cleared of weeds, should be
forked over. Generallv speaking, i foot should
b; allowed between the rows and 9 inches between
the plants in the rows.

Spanish and English Irises. — Where beds or
clumps of these have been sown or planted with
annuals to form a succession, the flower-stems of
the Irises should be promptly cut over after the
plants have finished flowering, so that the annuals
may enjoy the maximum of light and air.

Geraniums. — The Crane's-bills are not so often
seen in gardens as their merits deserve, and I would
like briefly to call attention to them. The following
are well worthy of a place in anv collection of
hardv border flowers : G. armenum, purplish
crimson, 2 feet ; G. Fremontii, pale purple,
li feet ; G. ib.?ricum, purplish blue, large flowers,
i| feet ; and G. phaum, dark purple, ij feet.

Pansies and Violas.— Keep the spent flowers
regularly picked off, except where it is intended
to save seed. Where seed is required, the earliest
available should be taken as soon as ripe ; if delayed,
the chances are that the seed-pods will burst
and the seed will be lost. Cuttings of good Pansies
should be taken whenever they are available.
Insert the cuttings in boxes of sandy soil and stand
them behind a wall or hedge.

Pentstemons. — Keep the hoe going among the
plants, and give them an occasional sprinkling of
soot or other fertiliser in showery weather.

Propagating Pinks. — It is quite time that this
work was attended to. Some people adopt the
rather rough-and-ready method of tearing off the
side branches and planting them deeply in the
soil ; but propagation by cuttings, or pipings as
some call them, is the correct method. Take the
cuttings below the third joint, trim off the lower

pair of leaves, and cut the stem cleanly immediately
below the joint ; insert in boxes and place in a
cold frame. Keep rather close and shade from
bright sunshine until rooted : then gradually
inure to air and light.

The Rose Garden.

Pinching. — Go over the plants and pinch out
the points of all shoots showing undue grossness.
The term " gross " is, of course, intended to be
taken relatively. 'What would be a gross shoot
on a Papa Gontier might be a very weak shoot
on a Hugh Dickson. The thing to aim at is
to maintain the balance of growth on the individual
plant.

Climbers. — Attention should be given to tying
in the young growths of climbers on arches, trellises,
or pillars; those on walls should be nailed in. If
aphides appear on the succulent points of the
shoots, a puff of Tobacco powder will kill the
insects.

Plants Under Glass.

Chrysanthemums. — Attend to the tying of

the shoots as growth advances. A watch mil
have to be kept for earwigs, and if they appear
they can be trapped by placing pieces of crumpled
paper among the shoots. The traps should be
examined every morning.

Francoas. — Only in very mild localities can the
Francoas be considered hardy, but they are very
useful for conservatory decoration. As the flower-
stems develop they should be staked and tied.
For such slender stems I prefer wire stakes. Spring-
sown seedlings should now be ready for potting
up into 4-inch pots. Cold-frame treatment is
what these voung plants require. F. ramosa
(white) and F. souchifolia are both worthy of
cultivation.

Dendrobiums. — Those which have finished their
growth will be benefited by having a rather lower
temperature and slightly drier conditions, both
at the roots and in the atmosphere.

Fruits Under Glass.

Peaches. — In houses where the fruit has been
gathered, the border should be examined, and if
dry a moderate watering should be given. Continue
to use the syringe or garden engine freely, and give
abundance of air night and day.

Tomatoes. — Late crops in pots should be top-
dressed as soon as roots appear freely on the surface.
All laterals should be promptly pinched out, and
tying should receive prompt attention.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Strawberries. — Plantations which are to remain
another season should, as soon as the crop is picked,
be cleared of weeds, and unless the runners are
wanted for spring planting, they should be cut
away. It will also tell on next season's crop if
the plants receive a dose of liquid manure or a
top-dressing of some approved fertiliser, to be
applied in showery weather. The two correct
periods for such an application is the present, in
order to assist in the formation of strong crowns
for next season's effort, or just after the fruit has
set, to assist in swelling it.

The Kitchen Garden.
Jerusalem Artichokes. — On rich, heavy soils

this crop is inclined to run too much to stem.
Where such is the case, it is a good plan to pinch
the plants when they have attained a height of
from 5 feet to 6 feet. Under the above conditions
they are also apt to be blown over by the autumn
winds. If a few tall stakes are driven in and a
line of twine is run round the plantation, it will
help to obviate the evil.

Early Celery. — I am not a behcver in earthing-
up Celery at a very early stage, as it tends to retard
growth; but the earliest planting should now be
ready for a first earthing-up. It pays to tie up
the plants with raffia previous to earthing-up,
cutting it awav after the earth has had a few days
to settle about 'the plants. See that all side growths
are removed before commencing to earth-up the
crop.

Clearing Off Early Crops.— As soon as early
crops of Peas, Cauliflowers, or Potatoes have been
harvested, the haulm and stalks should be cleared
off and removed to the refuse-heap, or dug down
if the ground is to be trenched for another crop
Chari.es Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

July 19, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

367

IMPENDING RETIREMENT
OF SIR HARRY J. VEITCH.

IT is wth keen regret that we learn of the
approaching retirement of Sir Harry J.
Veitch, because it also means the disposal
i>f the Veitchian Nurseries; but when we
rt-member that he has already passed the
allotted span of life, we can fully under-
stand that the time has arrived for him to seek
some respite from the strenuous duties connected
\nth the directorship of such a large firm as Messrs.
J. Veitch and Sons, Limited, of Chelsea. The
lease of the Coombe Wood Nursery expires on
Lady Day, 1915, so the present has been thought
a suitable opportunity to decide the fate of this
famous establishment, viz., to offer the nurseries
and stock for sale ; but some time will probably
elapse before they are finally disposed of.

A few remarks on the history of the firm will, no
doubt, be of considerable interest to the majority of
our readers. Like so many other business houses,
it had a small beginning, and so far as the records
show, the original John Veitch came from Jedburgh
in Scotland to Devonshire, and occupied a small
portion of land at Killerton in 1808. Eventually
his son, Mr. James Veitch, took command, and,
to enable him to compete with other nurserymen,
he purchased some land at Exeter in 1832, which
was known as the Mount Radford Nursery. In
April, 1853, 'h6 old-established business of Messrs.
Knight and Perry of King's Road, Chelsea, was
purchased by Mr. James Veitch, jun., at that time
associated with his father at the Exeter Nursery,
and was destined to become the head-quarters
of a firm which will leave an indelible mark
upon horticulture in all its aspects. His interest
in the Exeter firm ceased in 1864. At this time
the outside nursery covered about twenty acres.
Fruit trees were grown on ground opposite the
Chelsea Nursery, which were later transferred to
Southfields, Fulham, and then to Langley and
Felthara.

The Coombe Wood Nursery was begun in 1856,
and this has been the home of everything choice
and rare in the way of trees and shrubs. The
first part of the Langley Nursery, where hardy
fruits are cultivated on a large scale, also Roses,
herbaceous plants and special crops for seed,
was purchased in 1880. At Feltham fruit trees.
Vines, bulbs and greenhouse plants are to be seen
in great variety, while at Chelsea a big trade is
done in seeds and various exotics.

With this slight digression we will pursue the
family tree. In 1865 Mr. J. G. Veitch and Mr.
Harry J. Veitch were admitted to partnership,
and at the death of Mr. Veitch, sen., in 1869,
the business was carried on by the two gentlemen
just named. The partnership did not, however,
last long, for Mr. J. G. Veitch died, at a compara-
tively early age, in August, 1870. Mr. Arthur
Veitch then joined his brother Harry, but he
having .nlso died in 1880, for thirty years Mr.
Harry J. Veitch was solely responsible, and it is
probably due to his enterprise and energy that
such progress was made during this period. He
was succeeded in 1900 by his nephew, Mr. James
H. Veitch, who died on November 20, igo7 ; but a
year previous Mr. (now Sir) Harry J. Veitch had
again assumed the managing directorship which
he is about to finally relinquish.

Messrs. Veitch have from time to time despatched
travellers to various parts of the globe in search
of new plants. ."Vmong the first were the brothers

William and Thomas Lobb, the former collecting
in California and South America, and the latter
in India and Malaya, who introduced the first
Nepenthes and the blue Vanda caerulea. Richard
Pearce tra\elled in Chile, Peru and Bolivia; John
G. Veitch visited Japan, the South Sea Islands
and Australia ; David Burke went to Brazil, the
East Indies, Burmah and Colombia ; Henry
Hutton to Java and the Malay .^chipelago ;
Carl Kramer collected in Japan and Costa Rica ;
Gottlieb Zahn in Central America ; Walter
Davis in Brazil and Peru ; George Downton
in Central and South America and the islands of
Juan Fernandez ; J. Henry Chesterton in South
America ; A. R. Endres in Costa Rica ; Gustave
Wallis in Brazil, New Granada and various parts
of Tropical South America ; Peter C. M. Veitch,
Australia, South Sea Islands and Borneo ; Guillermo
Kalbreyer, the West Coast of Africa and Colombia,
South America ; Christopher Mudd, South Africa ;
F. W. Burbidge, Borneo ; Charles Maries, Japan
and China ; Charles Curtis, Madagascar, Borneo,
Java, Sumatra and the Moluccas ; J. H. Veitch
travelled through India, Malaysia, Japan, Korea,
the Australian and New Zealand colonies ; E. H.
Wilson, Central and Western China, and on the
Tibetan frontier ; while W. Purdom has only
recently returned from a visit to China. It is
impossible to enumerate any of the fine plants sent
home by this host of collectors ; but we might add
that Messrs. Veitch have supplied material for
upwards of four hundred plates in Curtis' Botanical
Magazine — surely a record of which any firm
might feel justly proud.

Many plants will still keep the name of Veitch
alive, especially Lilium auratum (the Golden-
rayed Lily of Japan) and Ampelopsis Veitchii,
which is represented upon thousands of dwellings.
Messrs. Veitch can also claim to be the pioneers
of hybridisation, and it was their foreman, John
Dominy, who raised the first hybrid Orchid.
Seden continued this work, and John Heal devoted
much time to the crossing of Hippeastrums,
tuberous Begonias, Rhododendrons, &c., and
Nepenthes and hardy fruits have received attention.

The foregoing is only a brief sketch of the history
of the Chelsea firm, and in conclusion we earnestly
hope that Sir Harry J. Veitch will be spared for
some years to enjoy a well-earned rest. No man
has done more for horticulture, and his interest
in gardening charities is well known, for " Large
is his bounty, and his soul sincere."

THE EDITOR'S TABLE.

Hybrid Primulas from Ireland. — Mr. j. a.

Cooper, the Lissadell Nursery, Sligo, sends some
beautiful hybrid Primulas of the pulverulent a
and cockbumiana types. Some of these are
extremely pleasing, particularly No. i, which has
glowing scarlet flowers of large size. No. 2 has
flowers of similar colour but not quite so good form.
No. 12 has flowers of glowing orange scarlet, but
the petals are too wide apart ; it is, however,
worth growing for its wonderful colour. No. 7
has blooms of a softer orange scarlet hue, and No. 6
is of deep crimson colour. The petals of this,
like those of No. 12, are too far apart, a fault that
will no doubt be remedied in time. Mr. Cooper
writes : " We are sending you by parcel post to-day
some specimen spikes of our hybrid Primulas,
which may be of interest to you. We have
labelled them under numbers."

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS,— TAe Editor intends to
make The Garden helpful to all readers xcho desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may he, and
with that objed will make a spenal feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
dearly and concisely toriUen on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the EDITOR of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, CovcrU Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation fie
may desire to be used in the paper. Wheji more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming shoxdd be dearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps thai are not charaderistic of the plant. Letters
on bttsiness should be sent to the Publisher.

FLOWER GARDEN.

INJURY TO THE LEAVES OF HARDY PLANTS

(fl. B, B.). — The leaves are mined by tlie larvjp of a small
two-wiQged fly, probably the Chrysanthemum fly. Spray-
ing when the attack is first seen with a nicotine wash
is the best thins; to do, or, if the leaves are sprayed with
paraffin emulsion early in the season, the flies may be
kept from laying their eggs.

CANTERBURY BELLS NOT DOING WELL {Dalbeattie).
— Several creatures seem to be attacking the lower part
of the Canterbury Bell sent and helping to its destruction.
Are there many slugs or snails about ? These often becin
the work by nibbling the part near the root, and it is
continued by other pests. The number and kind of
different creatures present suggest the probability that
there is insufficient lime in the soil. There is nothing in
the Pinks to account for the decay of the flowers. Their
appearance suggests much wet as the cause of the trouble. .

DOUBLE WHITE NARCISSUS (J. G.)— The bulbs
sent are very small, while their crowded condition in
any case would have precluded a good flowering. This
variety is virtually a sub-aquatic, and, failing such con-
ditions, should be given a cool place and the soil heavily
dressed with cow-manure. If the whole of your bulbs
are in the same condition as those you sent, you should
lift and separate them at once, and in the replanting
arrange the bulb* 5 inches or 6 inches deep. If treated
as advised, they nxay remain undLsturbed for years. In any
case this variety should never be subjected to annual
liftiir.' and drying.

IRIS RETICULATA {K. £.).— This is a bulbous-rooted
speci's tlow.-nng in the open in February and March,
and growing, according to the strength of the bulbs.
6 inches to 9 inches high. The flower is coloured deep
purplish violet, each of the lower petals (falls) having
a golden blotch on it. The species is quite amenable to
pot culture, should always be grown in very sandy, loamy
soiU, and in the open be planted about three inches deep.
If the Violas are infested at the root with tiny white
grubs and white mould, the cause of their sickly appear-
ance is obvious. All you can do is to lift tfcem, and having
washed away all the soil, replant them in a new position.
If the plants are very poor, you had better discard them
and start with a fresh stock. The old position should
have a free dressing of lime. The name of the plant is"
Santolina incana.

HERBACEOUS BORDER (Z.).— Yon cannot do better
than retain the poles for Rambler and other Roses through-
out the entire length of the border, as no plants,
rightly treated, are capable of a greater summer
display than these. For the rest, you should now
layer the Carnations and so obtain a largT stock. Lift
the Spanish Irises now, so that the border may be
made as free as possible for digging or trenching. Prior
to this operation a good dressing of lime and a liberal one
of manure will assist materially. With the trenching
completed, you shouJd obtain selections of Pyrethmms,
herbaceous Phloxes, Irises (Flag and other sorts, also
English and Spanish), together with such Lilies as candi-
dum, rroceum and umbellatum, and plant in free groups
throughout. Then in spring you might plant the hybrid
Pentstemons, which from July to September make a gay
show. As you are interested in making the border a
success, you should obtain from this office a copy of the
" HardyFlower Book," by E. H. Jenkins, which not
only contains much valuable information, but includes
plans showing how the plants should be arranged. Its
price is 2s. 9d., post free.

FRUIT GARDEN.

DISEASE IN GOOSEBERRIES {Reader). ~-T\iQ Goose-
berries appear to be attacked by the fungus Botry-
rophseria ribis. to which reference was made in our issue
of July 5. There is no curative treatment, and all dead
and dying branches should be removed as completely
as possible and burned. We think it would conduce to
the health of the bushes to spray them in winter with a
solution of 21b. of caustic soda in ten gallons of water

368

THE GARDEN.

[July 19, 1913;

PEACH TREE DISEASED (F. T.).— The Peach is
sutlerino from the attack of the funsus Bxoascus deformans,
causing Peach-curl disease. This is usually more abundant
where the plants have been exposed to winds and draughts.
All the affected parts should be removed and burned,
and next year the tree should be sprayed with ammoniacal
copper carbonate soon after the buds burst.

INJURY TO RASPBERRIES (B. T.).— The white patches
on the stems of the Itespberries sent are symptomatic
of the disease due to Hendersonia rnbi, but you do not
send the lower part of the stem, where the disease is
probably worse, so that we cannot say exactly whether
this fungus or some other is at work. Spraying with
Bordeaux mixture at the strength used for spraying
Potatoes should be done, but not within three W9eks of
picking the fruit. The old canes should be cut out as soon
as possible, and the young ones sprayed with the Bordeaux
mixture, or with potassium sulphide, loz. to three gallons
of water.

MISCELLANEOUS.

CRESTED LEAVES ON BRASSICAS (IF. L. F.).—
Tl-e outgrowths on the Brassica are very curious, and
frequently occur, no one knows whv. They are associated
with a derangement of the internal tissues of the plant,
and occasionally appear to be associated with damage
to the terminal bud.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— e. S. D.—\, Mimldus gluti-

nosus; 2, Rose Tuscany. F. W.. Kings Lynn. —

Rose Alberic Barbier. F. M., Selly Oai.— Hoses :

1 Mme. Hoste ; 3, Abel Carriire ; 4, Nadia ; 8, Captain
Christy; 12, Anna Olivier; 17, Bev. A. Cheales ; 18,
Viscountess Folkestone ; 19, Lohengrin ; 20, Reliance ;
21, Mme. C. Guinoisseau ; 23, Baron de Bonstetten. Others
had fallen or wore cut too small to be able to distinguish.

L. B C— Roses : 1, Mrs. W. J. Grant ; 2, M. Desir ;

3 Prince C. de Rohan ; 4, Ducher ; 5, Jean Dueher ; 6, F.
Duhrieul; 7, R6ve d'Or; 8, Mme. G. Luizet. The
flowers were poor and difficult to name with accuracy.

A. P., Sussex. — 1, Colutea species, send when in

flower ; 2, Lythrum Salicaria (Purple Loosestrife) ; 3,
Brigeron speciosus ; 4, Coreopsis species, send when in
flower.

SOCIETIES.

HANLET FLOWER SHOW.

This was held in Hanley Park on Wednesday, July 2.
under happy auspices, in pleasant weather and
under as bright skies as the atmosphere of these parts
admit of, charged as it is tor miles round with a haze
or mist of smoke and dust arising out of the immense
industry associated with the far-famed Staffordshire
Potteries. If the sun is, unfortunately, somewhat obscured
by the above conditions, a stranger has not long to remain
in the Potteries before he finds out the fact that the sun-
shine which is born of the love of flowers and gardening
is shining its brightest at Hanley on that day. The park
in which this show, the seventeenth of the series, was lield
is one of the prettiest, best laid out and planted parks
in the Midlands. A little more than twenty years ago
it was a series of cinder-heaps 1 What a transformation
wrought by the enterprise and puljlic spirit of the govern-
in" authorities, with the help and through the agency
of that art, the art of gardening, we all love so well !
The committee and all concerned are to be congratulated
on the extent and high quality of the exhibits throughout
the show. ^ . , , . L i,-

The groups of plants arranged for effect, of which there
were flve, filled the centre of one of the largest tents.
A grand and effective sight they presented collectively,
and, considered singly, nearly all were excellent. Messrs.
Cypher and Sons were a good first ; second, Mr. W. R.
Manning, Dudley; third, Mr. W. A. Holmes, Chester-
field; fourth. Mr. W. Howson, Market Draj'ton ; fifth,
Mr. R. Simpson, Selby. ... ^ . ,

The classes for specimen plants, both flowering and
foliace, were fairly well filled, and the competition was in
many cases keen, Messrs. Cypher being the chief first-
prize winners.

The class for twelve table plants brought out some ol
the daintiest and best-grown plants of this description
we have seen for a long time. First, Mrs. Meakin,
Dorlaston Hall ; second, Mr. B. Howson ; third, Mr. F.
Winger, Wolstanton.

ROSES.

Of these there was a lovely show, a whole tent being
chiefly devoted to them. ■ ^ i

In the class for seventy-two, the first prize went to
Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons, Kewtownards ; second,
Messrs. Harkness and Co., Hitchin ; third. The King's
Acre Nurseries, Hereford; fourth, Mr. W. H. Frettingham,
Beeston Nurseries, Notts.

In the class for forty-eight. Mr. Frettingham was flr.st ;
second, Messrs. Harkness and Co. ; third, Messrs. A,
Dickson and Sons.

In the class for thirtv-six the competition was keen,
and many of the specimens were of superb quality. Messrs.
Harkness were first ; second, Mr. W. H. Frettingham ;
third, Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons ; fourth. The King's
Acre Nurseries. ,. ^. ^ . ^ ,

In the class for twelve new Roses, distinct, introduced
since and including 1911, Messrs. Perkins and Sons of
Coventry were first; second, Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons ;
third. The King's Acre Nurseries ; fourth, Messrs. Harkness
and Co. . . , j-

There were many other classes tor Roses, including one
for twenty-four Hybrid Teas. Messrs. Perkins and Sons

were first ; second, Messrs. Harkness and Co. ; third,
Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons.

Twenty-four Teas or Noisettes : First, Mr. W. T.
Mattock ; second, Mr. W. H. Frettingham ; third. The
King's Acre Nurseries.

Twelve white Roses, one variety : First, Mr. W. H.
Frettingham ; second, Mr. W. T. Mattock ; third, Burch
Nurseries. Peterborough.

Twelve vellow Roses : First, The King's Acre Nurseries ;
second, Messrs. Perkins and Sons ; third, Mr. W. T.
Mattock.

Twelve pink Roses, one variety only : First. Messrs.
A. Dickson and Sons ; second, Messrs. Harkness and
Co. ; third. The King's Acre Nurseries.

Twelve red or crimson Roses, one variety only : First,
Messrs. Perkins and Sons ; second, Burch Nurseries ;
third, Messrs. Harkness and Co.

Table Decorations.

Not the least beautiful and interesting was the tent
devoted to these artistically-decorated tables. We do
not know to whom the credit, of introducing these decorated
tables is due. but we do know the vast improvement
which has taken place in the harmonious blending of
colours, and in the light and artistic way in whicli the
flowers have been arranged, [since the introduction of
these classes.

The flr.5t class in this section was for tables decorated
with Roses alone, no other foliage than their own per-
mitted. First prize went to Mr. W. T. Mattock ; second,
Mrs. A. J. Blair; third, Mr. R. Sims, Borrowash.

The second class in this section was for tables decorated
with other flowers than Roses. Mrs. A. J. Blair was
flrst ; second, Messrs. Jervis and Sprowson ; third.
Miss Benvon.

Collections of hardy perennial flowers, no annuals,
duplicates, or mixed bunches of flowers allowed. The
magnitlcent collections of these which are always forth-
coming at this show are a source of much interest to the
public. Their growth may be enjoyed by all alike who
may have a large or small garden, and on this account
their merits appe.il to the masses in particular. Messrs.
Harkness and Co., Bedalc. were first; second, Mr. F.
Bouskell, Market Bosworth ; third, Messrs. Gibson and
Co., Bedale.

Sweet Peas.

For a collection ol twelve varieties, twenty-one stems
o£ eacli, the first prize went tn Mr. F. R. Minshall, Market
Drayton. No other award was made.
FKiriT.

Considering the earliness of the season for many fruits,
such as .Muscat Grapes, Apples, Pears, and Plums, the
exhibition of these was good.

In the class tor a dessert table decorated with flowers
and foliage, the exhibit which took the flrst prize con-
sisted of really superb fruits, the exhibitor being Mr.
Doe of Ollerton. His Black Hamburgh, Madresflold
Court and Muscat Grapes were splendid specimens of
the Grape-grower's skill, judged from all points. Second,
Lady Beaumont ; third, Mr. W. T. Mattock.

Collection of twelve dishes of fruit, not less than eight
kinds and not more than two varieties of a kind, to include
black and white Grapes, two bunches of each variety :
First, Lady Beaumont, Carlton Tower=, with an excellent
collection ; second. Mr. S. Sims, Borrowash.

In the class for six distinct dishes of fruit, that veteran
fruit-grower and exhibitor, Mr. Bannerman of Blithofield,
was an excellent flrst ; second, Mr. J. Doe.

In the class for four bunches of Grapes, two black and
two white, Mr. Doe was flrst. Lady Beaumont second
and Mr. Bannerman third.

The minor classes for frnit were generally well contested
and the quality good.

Honorary Trade Exhibits.

These are always a notable feature of the Hanley Show,
and on no occasion have they proved more attractive
and received greater appreciation than this year. Messrs.
M. Jenkinson and Son of Newcastle were awarded a silver
challenge cup and a large gold medal for a magnificent
collection of Roses ; Mr. W. Lowe, Beeston, Notts,
large gold medal ; Mr. R. Bolton, Warton. Carnforth,
large gold medal for a fine collection of Sweet Peas;
and Messrs. Jervis and Sprowson, gold medal for an artistic
example of floral room decoration.

Silver medals were awarded to the following firms :
Messrs. Jarman and Co., Chard ; Messrs. Dicksons,
Limited. Chester ; and Messrs. S. R. Compston and Sons,
Macclesfield.

THE CHn,DKEN'S SECTION.

In many respects the large tent devoted exclusively
to children's exhibits is the most interesting part of this
excellent show. Started in an unpretentious way a few
years ago, it has now attained to great proportions,
upwards" of two thousand entries being received in the
various sections in which the children are interested,
and in most of which they receive instruction at school,
Examples of children's work in the following subjects
were on view. The same were judged by ladies and
gentlemen of scholastic and artistic standing in the town,
and suitable awards made. Plants and seeds are dis-
tributed in the spring among the children unable to provide
themselves with the same ; others provide their own.
All start growing them at the same time, and under similar
conditions as regards size of pots and so on. -A.11 the
exhibits were creditable to the children, and some would
have stood a good chance for a prize even among the
exhibits of experts. Another strong feature is the water-
colour drawings of plants from Nature. The children
range in ages, we believe, from seven to twelve, and their
work in this section was truly most praiseworthy, the plants
in most cases being so true in colour and outline to the

original. Dried specimens of wild and cultivated flowers
were another most interesting aspect of this children's
show. That they had been dried and pressed with the
utmost care was clear by the colour of the foliage being so
well preserved. Each example was correctly labelled, giving
both the common and the botanical name. There were
also many exhibits of plants and flowers in pastel drawing,
as well as examples of trees in pencil drawing. Think
of the innocent pleasures these studies afford to the
plastic and easily-impressed mind of the child I Think,
also, of the pleasure stored up for future enjoyment, anu
of the influence for good 1 Such studies cannot help but
encourage and foster the love of flowers among those who
come after us. All honour, we say, to the promoters of
the Hanley Show for the lead they have taken in so
important and far-reaching a movement for good among
our children.

SOUTHAMPTON ROSE SHOW.

By permission of Ellen Lady Swaythling, the annual Rose
Show was held in the beautiful grounds attached to South
Stoneham House on Jmie 25, and if not so large as in some
years past, was of an interesting character. The Roses were
of capital quality, fresh, well coloured and consisted of an
extraordinary number of newer varieties, so much so that
we missed an unusual number of old favourites. The
Hybrid Perpetual section was almost unrepresented, so
popular have the many Hybrid Tea varieties become.
The arra.ngements were, as they always are here, excellent,
under the experienced guidance of Mr. C. S. Fuidge, secre-
tary, and the chairman of committee, Mr. H. E. Molyneux.
In all, twenty-seven classes were provided for cut blooms
in the schedule, ten being open to all. The principal one
was for forty-eight distinct varieties. There were four
competitors, making an effective display. Mr. G. Prince,
Longworth, Faringdon, was easily first with medium-sized
high quality specimens. 'The best were Jonkheer J. L.
Mock, Lyon Rose, Mme. Jules Gravereaux, J. B. Clark,
Bessie Brown. Edward Mawley, Ethel Malcolm, Lady
Ashtown. Mildred Grant, Oberhofgartner Terks (extra
fine), Mrs. M. Sinton, Lady Ursula, Mrs. G. Shawyer,
Marquise de Sinety, Medea (large), Mrs. A. Coxhead, Avoca
(richly coloured), Mrs. Myles Kennedy, Mrs. Sam Ross,
Mme. Melanie Soupert and Mabel Drew. Messrs. 1). Prior
and Sons, Colchester, were second with larger specimens,
which, however, were not so clear or well coloured. Lady
Barham was so fine that it was selected as the
premier bloom in the open classes. Mrs. J. H. Welch,
Lady Ashtown, Marfiehal Niel, Victor Hugo and Mrs.
Arthur Coxhead were also noteworthy blooms. Mr. J.
Mattock, Headmgton, Oxford, was placed third.

Five competed for twelve Teas or Noisettes. Mr. Prince
followed up his previous success by annexing the premier
award with remarkable blooms of Mme. J. Gravereaux,
Mrs. F. Hobbs, Comtesse de Nadaillae, Mrs. Myles Kennedy,
Mme. Cusin, Souvenir de S. A. Prince, Mrs. Herbert
Stevens (a wonderful blossom, so pure in coloui), Mrs. E.
Mawley, White Maman Cochet and Molly Sharman Craw-
ford. Alexander Hill Gray, Esq.. Beaulieu, Newbridge,
Bath, was second with a good set. W. R. Smith. Mrs. F.
Hobbs. Nita Weldon, Maman Cochet and its white counter-
part were deserving of note. Mr. H. Drew, Longworth,
Berks, was third.

Mrs. Foley Hobbs won for Mr. A. Gray the leading award
for six any yellow or white, Messrs. Prioi and Sons depend-
ing on Bessie Brown for second place.

For a representative group in .^0 square feet, six entered
but only two competed, which, when withdrawn at the
last moment, is a serious loss to the executive. Mr. J.
Mattock was easily flrst with a capital display of free-
flowering varieties, effectively arranged in tall masses of
such varieties as Lady Curzon, Irish Eleg.anee, Crimson
Damask, Marquise de Sinety, Lady Hillingdon, Juliet,
Mrs. W. J. Grant, Sunburst, Goldfinch and A. R. Goodwin.
Messrs. W. and R. Piogers and Sons, Red Lodge Nurseries,
Southampton, were second.

Baskets of cut Roses, in three distinct sorts, made a
"ood display. Mr. J. Mattock was easily flrst %vith Ethel
Malcolm, Lyon Rose (grandly coloured) and General
Maeaithur. Messrs. Prior and Sons were second with
good blooms not so well displayed, Mr. Prince following.

Amatecrs.

For eighteen, distinct, four entered. Mr. W. Jarratt
Thorpe. Gransmoor, Hurclecote, Gloucester, won the
premier place with desirable specimens — Mrs. F. Hobbs,
Ulricli Brunncr, George Dickson (a good example of this
new Rose), Jonkheer J. L. Mock, Bessie Brown, Francois
Miehclon and Princesse M. Mertchersky. Mr. A. Hill
Gray was second with smaller specimens, and Dr. Seaton,
Woodside Cottage, Lymington, third.

In the class for six Roses, three of each variety, flve took
part Mr. A. Hill Gray won with a good set, in which
Lyon. Ulster and W. R. Smith were the most prominent,
Mr W. J. Thorpe being a close second.

Mr. A. Hill Gray won for twelve Teas or Noisettes with a
grand bloom of W. R. Smith in particular. Dr. Seaton
was second. , . ^ ,

Open to growers of less than flve hundred plants, a class
for twelve blooms, distinct, was made. Dr. J. T. Gillett,
Andovor, with small, neat specimens, was first.

Mr J A. Fort. The College, Winchester, won the piece
of plate for twelve, for growers of less than three hundred
plants, with desirable blooms. ,. .„ _

In the classes confined to the County of Hants. Mr. H. L.
Molyneux, Brantwood. Southampton, won the Allan Guini
Cup for twelve distinct blooms, among six entrants, with
an interesting set composed mainly of new varieties —
Mrs T H. Vanderbilt, Colleen, Portia, Laurent Carle.
Mrs. Muir Maekean and Mrs. Amy Hammond. Mr
R. C. W. Dixon, Glenville, Hulse Road. Southampton,
was a good second- I& M •

iafe»-

GARDEN.

^3^^-in=^^^'

No. 2175.— Vol. LXXVII.

July 26, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Lik

XOTKS OF THK Wl.KK
1 MKRESrOKIiKSCF,

Dip \Vi]Io\v-lca\f(l

Veronica
\c .- Roses [irowil

underclass..
I'Hmpannla (». F.

Wilson
Scent, in Mdwofs
Pruning Uoso

France

KortliecHuin^ events. .

CUl.TtJKAL NOTBS ON

N liW OR 11 .\ R K

PLANTS

(JREKNHoirsr

Beautiful plants for

hou>e deeoi'ati.m

tiassia corynibosa . .

FRCIT GAUriHN

The early planting
of Strawlicrries. .

Seasonable notes on
fruit

TRKKS AXn SHRl'DS

I'll e lU o o n I i g h t

Broom

■Shrubs tor liry soils
I In- Vine-leaved
AInitilun

:!71

:!71
371

371
371

371

372

37ti

37«

373
373

I'l.iiwKi; i1.\1!1ii;n

liafTodil notes .. 37.')

U.ICK AMI WaTKK (iAKDKX

A dainty Hellflowcr 375
tJeniian'a verna in
grass

Kitchen (Iakdex
Seasonable notes on
vegetables . .

Oakdenini; for liEoiNNnris
How to increase the
Siberian Flag (Iris
sibiriea) . . . . 377
How to propagate

Hydrangeas . . 377
Spinacti Beet.. .. 377

CAKDENINO of THK WEEK

For Southern gar-
dens

For northern gar-
dens

X F W A X 1) R A K F
PLANTg

Obituary

Robert .Sydenham . .

ANSWERS TO COKIIE-
SPOSnENTS . .

378

378

379
379

374 Societies

380

ILLUSTRATIONS.

I'lic new Uij-c i:. Amedee Hamnionil 370

A lieautiful specimen plant of Schizantbns pjnnatus 37-.;

A large bed of the Moonlight Broom 373

A large and weU-Boweied bash of the Vine-leaved

Abutilou 374

Campanula pusilla Miss Willmott 375

The new Rose Mrs. F. W. Vandeibilt 376

How to increase the Siberian Flag (Iris sibiriea) . . 377

BDITORIAL NOTICB8.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor irrtcow's phcfogifJi/hs, ttrticli's atut jwtfK,
hut he. iviU not be resp&ngifiie tor their safe return. All
reiisonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he wilt endeamnr to return non-accepted
contributions.

As ret/ards p/iotoffraphs, if payment be desired, the Editor
'ishs that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
'irnplier or oirner of the copyright will be treated irith-

'I'lie Kdilor a it-- not tte responsible for the return of artistic
or literary citntrihutions u-liich he may not be able to use. and
the receipt of a proof must nnt be taken as evidence that an
III tide is aceepted. I'liblication in 'I'm: C auiifX irilt alone
'!•■ recoitnisi'd as acceptance.

Offices: iO, Tiieistoch .Street, Corenl i;ardin. II'.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Destruction of Queen Wasps. — one ..i the most
certain methods of keeping dowti a plague of wasps
is that of capturing tlie iiueciis. .\n interesting
exhibit in connection with the recent Elstree and
Boreham Wood Horticultural Society was the
class for queen wasps, the first prize being awarded
for T,ys specimens.

Rose Show at Gloucester. — In responding to

the toast, " The National Rose Society." at
Gloucester last week, Mr. Mawley said this was the
largest provincial show ever held by the National
Society, the next largest having been at Saltaire,
and the next largest at Luton. Not only
that, but he thought the general quality of
the blooms was iv in excess of anything they
before. .K report of this wonderful display of
had had Roses appears on another page of this
issue.

Robert Sydenham. — it will come as a great
shock to many of our readers to leant of the death
of Mr. Robert Sydenham, which occurred suddenly
at his offices, Tenby Street, Birmingham, on
Saturday mcrning last. So recently as Thursday
evening of last week he was present at the dinner
of the National Sweet Pea Society in London,
and appeared to be in his usual good health. His
death removes from the gardening world a genial
and generous personality that will be greatly
missed by a large circle of friends. .'\ portrait
of the deceased gentleman, with a brief review of
his career, appears on page 370.

A BeautifulJuly-flowering Broom.— in Cytisus

nigricans we possess a yellow -flowered Broom of
considerable value in gardens. The fact that the
plants continue in flower practically throughout
the month of July should not be lightly overlooked,
for hardy shrubs which flower profusely at this
season are not over-abundant. To obtain bushes
of Cytisus nigricans in their fullest beauty it is
necessary to cut the previous season's growth fairly
hard back in February or March each year. By
this means vigorous young shoots arc induced to
develop, almost every one of which later
terminates in a long, slender raceme of yellow
blossoms.

Wart Disease of Potatoes in Lancashire.—

The Board of Agriculture and Fisheries desire
to inform Potato-growers that cases of wart
disease of Potatoes (Synchitrium endobioticum,
Percival) have occurred in Lancashire, and to
remind them that by Article 3 of the tVart
Disease of Potatoes Order of igta they are
required to report the presence of this disease
on their premises to the police or other officers
appointed by local authorities for the purpose,
and that failure to report is punishable by
a fine. Notifications may he sent tt) the Board,
who will forward them to the proper quarter.
.^ leaflet describing the disease and giving directions

fur dealing with it can be obtained from the
Secretary, Board of .■Vgriculttu'c and Fisheries,

4, Whitehall Place, London, S.W., gratis and
pr)st free. Letters so addressed need not be
stamped

Propagating Rock Plants by Cuttings.— 1 he
majority of rock plants that have now finished
flowering can be readily raised from cuttings.
Select the young growths and place them in sand\'
soil under a hand-light, and keep a moist atmo-
sphere by occasional overhead syringing during
bright weather. By these means many plants
that are not easily raised from seed can be readily
increased. When rooted they should be potted

05, and will make nice plants for the rock garden
the following spring.

County Classes for Sweet Peas. — One of the

most interesting features of the National Sweet
Pea Society's Show, held in London last week,
and a report of which appears on page v., were
the classes arranged for groups of counties, these '
embracing the whole of the United Kingdom.
We are pleased to announce that the piece of plate
presented by us as first prize in the Southern
Counties Class was won by Mrs. Kensington, Haver-
brack, Buxted, Uckfield (gardener, Mr. F. C. Beale).
As there were eight entries, this Avas exceedingly
creditable, and we congratulate Mrs. Kensington
and her gardener on their success.

Are Ten-Week Stocks Dying Out?— During

the past two seasons We have been called upon at
shows to judge Ten-week Stocks, the schedules
rightly stipulating that the plants should be showii
as grown. In nearly every instance the plants
staged have been those of the intermediate section,
many of which are of a perennial or semi-perennial
character. These are naturally much larger and
more branching than the old Ten-week Stock,
and undoubtedly better plants for the garden.
In judging we have hesitated to disqualify these
exhibits, but it would be well if framers of schedules
would ask for Stocks raised Irom seed sown during
Ihe current year, and thus make it quite legitimate
for exhibitors to stage those of the intermediate
section.

A Beautiful Rambler Rose.— .^ well-grown
plant of the R.mibler Rose Excelsa growing over
the top of a broad gateway moves us to draw the
attention of readers to this welcome addition.
In our opinion it will before long oust Crimson
Rambler from most gardens, the soft yet bright
cherry red colour of the flowers being far more
pleasing than those of the old variety. When we
saw pot-grown plants of Excelsa shown two years
ago, we were not favourably impressed with it,
as the blooms had an unpleasant blue tint running
through them. Outdoors, however, this is absent,
and at a distance the flowers ;ire practically the
same shade as some newly-opened ones of Gr&s
an Teplitz that are growing near it. Excelsa is
a wichuraiana Rose, has a vigorous habit similar
to th.''t >f Dorothv Perkins, and flowers freelv.

370

THE GARDEN.

[July 26, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{Tilt Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

The Willow-Leaved Veronica.— Although the

vaiietifs i>f Veronica are numerous, the Willow-
leaved species, V. saUcifolia, is quite one of the
best. A plant here put out five years ago at the
loot of a south wall in quite a narrow border has
succeeded well ; it is now 6 feet across and 4 feet
high, and is completely smothered with its pure
white, drooping racemes 8 inches long — a glorious
viglit when in full flower. It i? a pity the flowers
do not last longer. They are short-lived, a fault
with all . the Veronica family.
Nicholson describes this variety as
bluish purple or white. In my
case the flowers are pure white.
Perhaps this is a superior form.

Phlomis fruticosa.— The Jeru-
salem Sage, as this hardy shrub
is often called, although a com-
mon plant, introduced as far back
as 1596 from the Mediterranean
region, is not grown nearly as much
as its merits deserve. In low-lying,
damp districts the plants are more
easily injured by frost ; hence per-
haps the reason for their scarcity.
Here on a hill, in well-drained yet
lieavy soil, the specimen I have
flourishes amazingly, producing a
full crop of its yellow or dusky
yellow whorls of blossom. My
plant is about seven feet in diameter
■md 5 feet high, the result of ten
years' growth. Even when not in
flower the plant is desirable, being
evergreen, with an under surface
of white wool. — E. Molyneux,
Sttianmore Park, Bishop's Waltham,
Hants.

The Lowberry Fruiting Well.

It may be interesting to some of
your readers to know that this
i-omparatively new berry is fruit-
ing well in the open in the garden
here. When shown by Messrs.
Stuart Low and Co. about three
years ago, doubts as to its hardiness
and fruiting properties were freely
expressed. It produces long, jet
black fruits in clusters similar to
those of the Loganberry, but the
flavour more closely resembles
that of the Blackberry. It makes
long, stout rods, and is excellent
for covering trellis-work. I should
be glad to hear the experiences of
other readers with this useful berr\ . — J. B. S.,
Redhill, Surrey. [We have this plant fruiting freely
in Essex just now, and it appears to be perfectly
hardy. The fruits are sweeter and more useful
than those of the Loganberry. — Er>.]

Three Good Astilbes. — For moist situations in
tlie border, and especially by the water-side, the
.\stilbes are a family whose value cannot be over-
estimated. There are now several fine varieties
of recent introduction, of which Cream Pearl,
PiTik Pearl and Venus are among the best. These
were raised by M. Areuds, and are known as
.■^stilbe Arendsii. All three are sturdy, erect
growers. Cream Pear) has, as its name implies.

creamy flowers, freely produced. Pink Pearl is
a pleasing shade of soft pink. Venus is a grand
plant with large spikes of deep pink flowers. To
lovers of hardy plants on the look-out for good
things, these should be especially welcome. —
E. G. D.^visoN. Westwick Gardens, Norwich.

Primula Rusbyi. — It is but seldom that we meet
with Primula Rusbyi in flower, and it is with
pleasure that one sees a nice little plant photo-
graphed in the garden of Dr. John MacWatt at
Morelands, Duns. It is one of the Primulas which,
like P. suflrntesceus, baffle a good many and prove
difficidt in many ways. Its New Mexican origin
rnav account for a good deal of the trouble ex-
perienced with it, although on good authority

longish, rather spoon-shaped
It was introduced in 1S81. —

THE NEW ROSE G. AMEDEE HAMMOND, EXHIBITED BY MESSRS. ALEX

DICKSON AND SONS AT THE GLOUCESTER SHOW LAST WEEK.

{See page si.)

we are told that it is a hardy rock garden species.
It has not turned out hardy everywhere, and is
really most satisfactory in a pot, in a frame, or,
better still, in an alpine-house. A soil of loam,
peat and sand in equal parts, with some stones
among it, or with leaf-soil in substitution for the
peat, 1 found answer best : but it is both a trouble-
some and shy-flowering species in the open. The
flowers, which are sometimes called " a brown
crimson," are a little depreciated by this descrip-
tion, the colour bemg a nice crimson-purple, with
a yellow eye surrounded by a deep crimson
shading. The beauty of the flower is increased
by the pretty way with which the calyx is striped expressed to me by growers. — A. P.

with farina. The
le.ives are toothed.
Alpinist.
Good Herbaceous Borders in Scotland.^

Mr. John Wilkinson, agent for Captain Hope ol
St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright, has a delightful
garden at The Grange, Kirkcudbright. Many
things are well done there, but perhaps the most
charming feature is the way in which the hardy
border flowers are cultivated and arranged. This
part of the garden is cared for by Mr. Wilkinson
himself, and the plants, their cultivation and their
arrangement all contribute to the successful results
obtained. The borders are on either side of grass
paths, which give an air of peacefulness and harmony
with the flowers often wanting in
gardens where gravel is employed
for the walks. The plants are in
bold groups of one variety, and the
effect through the varying seasons
is very beautiful. The other day,
although the great Oriental Poppies,
which are so fine at The Grange,
and other earlier flowers were over,
the effect of the borders was charm-
ing, especially in the long borders
on either side of the main pathway.
Great Delphiniums, clumps of
Alstroemerias, Veronicas, white and
red Valerians, Polemoniums.
Violas and many other border
flowers, supplemented by such
annuals as Alonsoas, Dimorphotheca
aurantiaca and others, made a
wonderfully beautiful effect, en-
hanced greatly by the surroundings
of trees and shrubs and the absence
of walls, — S. Arnott.

Roses that Vary in Colour.—

The extreme variations in colour
of some Roses have more than once
given rise to the impression that
the vendor has sent a wrongly-
named plant. In the newer Hybrid
Tea Rose Simburst we not un-
naturally find some difference ni
opinion as to its sterling qualities.
.\ well-coloured flower is really a
revelation in golden orange and
cadmium yellows ; but so often
we get a quantity of flowers almost
devoid of this delightful colour,
and then it is by no means so great
an acquisition, and has often been
decried from that cause. We have
another notorious example in Mrs.
.\aron Ward. About an equal num-
ber of the blossoms come a clear
Indian yellow and the rest almost a
creamy white, while some range from
creamy white, flushed with salmon
rose, up to various shades of the more striking
Indian yellow. William Allen Richardson has much
the same undesirable peculiarity. But it does not
seem possible to altogether account for these varia-
tions. Position, soil, also whether under glass or in
the open ;uid whether sunny or dull weather predo-
minates, are frequently put forward as causes. Other
varieties that change greatly are Prince dc Bulgarie.
Marie van Houtte, Edu Meyer, Duke of York,
Hugo Roller, Souvenir de Stella Gray, Rainbow,
Theresa and Mme. Lambard. My iibject in this
note is to help to clear away some thoughts of dis-
honest trading that have more than once been

July 26, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

37 1

New Roses Grown Under Glass. -Messrs.
Alex. Dickson and Sons of Newtownards inform
ns tfiat all the new Roses shown by them at the
National Rose Society's London Show on July i,
and described in our issue for July 12, were grown
in the open, and not under glass as stated in our
report. The mistake was due to the fact that there
were two classes for seedling Roses — one for those
grown in the open and the other for those grown
under glass — and it not being made clear in which
rlass the various Roses were included.

Campanula G. F. Wilson. — I have seen Cam-
panula G. F. Wilson in many places, but never
ni such plenty as in the beautiful gardens of
Captain Hope, R.N., at St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcud-
bright, where it is cultivated most extensively in
the borders and rockery. There are many large
clumps of great beauty, these covering themselves
sii freely with the dark blue flowers that hardly
a leaf is to be seen. The clumps in the front of
the borders, in particular, are of large si.ce, and all
are the produce of one plant which was in the
gardens when Mr. James Jeffrey, the gardener,
took charge a good many years ago. The variety
is the green-leaved one. — S. Arnott.

Scent In Flowers.— in reply to Mrs. King's
query on page 334, issue July 5, concerning
my allusion to the American craze for size and
colour, I had in my mind when writing some very
large and showy Peas (miscalled " Sweet ") that
came from an American soiurce, which I saw for
the first time in a friend's garden some years ago ;
but when I tip-toed up to smell them, I discovered, to
my dreadful disappointment, that they had no scent,
and though so gay, would never laake anosegay !
I had also in my mind the large and showy American
.Apples and other fruit (so often seen in fruiterers'
shops) which we find so sadly lacking in flavour.
.\s for the American love of everything large,
that charge did not originate with me. — Anne
.\mateur.

Pruning Rose La France. — No doubt some
cultivators of this lovely Rose will think it is quite
unseasonable to talk about pruning Roses, but I
think it is quite seasonable, and a subject on which
readers may give their experience. I find the
best results follow summer pruning, or, rather,
thinning out of the old wood at this time, and thus
allow the younger and stronger shoots to mature
before the winter comes. Ordinary cutting back
to two, three, or five buds in March has not, as
far as ray experience goes, resulted in the best
crop of flowers being grown. Really unripe wood
may be cut back, but if the summer priming is
well done, very little will be necessary in spring.
General thinning out of shoots now and a little
shortening back of umripe tips of shoots in March
have given the best results as regards flowering,
and in a few years the plants have attained to a
large size, bearing dozens of blooms. Perh^^s oome
other cultivators will give their views. — G. G.

CULTURAL NOTES ON NEW
OR RARE PLANTS.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

July 29. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting
and Gladiolus Show. Masters Memorial Lecture
at 3 p.m. by Professor R. H. Bifien, M.A., on
" Some Factors in the Prevention of Disease in
Plants."

July 30.— Midland Carnation and Picotee Show
at Birmingham (two days). Flower Shows at
Chesterfield, Whitchurch and Bishop's Stortford.

July 31. — County Clare Summer Show. Flower
Shows at St. Ives (Hunts) and Northallerton.

August 2. — Soci6t6 Fran<;aise d'Horticulture de
Londres Meeting.

Saxifraga bursiculata.— This is probably one
of the most valuable of hybrid Saxifrages raised
diu-ing recent years. It was raised from a cross
between S. burseriana major (the true plant)
and S. apiculata, and, while embodying not a
little of the vigour and freedom of growth of the
latter plant and its flustering trusses of flowers,
embraces all the purity of colour and earlmess
to bloom of that first named. It is, from every
point of view, a hybrid alpine to which the term
" first class " might well be applied. It is of free
growth, though doubtless a year or two will
elapse before it becomes either plentiful or cheap.
Meantime, it will satisfy those who consider the
best of everything quite good enough. By reason
of its vigour it grows freely in gritty, well-drained
loam. Its earliness to flower — February-March —
fits it for the alpine-house.

Fritillaria iniperialis ohitralensis is a plant
so distinct and dwarf-growjng by comparison with
others of the "Imperial" race that at sight it
might be regarded as outside its scope. Botanists,
however, have declared to the contrary, and as the
plant is an early-flowering one of the bulbous order,
and one that, to ensure complete success, should
be planted in late summer or early autumn, note
should be made of it now. It is a foot or so high,
having golden yellow flowers of bell-like outline.
It is a refined and pretty plant, well suited to very
sandy soils and a warm situation. Flowers March-
April.

OxaliS ■denophylla.— Whether this pretty
Chilian species will prove a little less hardy than
the varieties of O. enneaphylla, time alone will
prove. Meanwhile, it is worthy of every care
and the studious avoidance of risks. In the
warmest positions of the rock garden it may be safe
enough, and in the drier parts of the moraine may
be worth experimenting with by those who have
enough for such purposes and the courage to use
them. Culturally, it appears to require nothing
different to the better-kno%vn plant. The glaucous,
much-divided leaves form a tuft, which constitutes
a pretty setting to the pinky red flowers, which
appear in April and May. In the alpine-house
it is one of the choicest of early flowers.

Anemone sylvestris grandiflora.— On the prin-
ciple that a good variety of any plant takes up no
more room than an inferior one, and sometimes
not quite so much, it is suggested that all interested
in the Snowdrop Windflower should secure the
variety above named. Some of those sent out as
the typical kind are of too weedy a nature, both in
habit and flower. Occasionally one may get the
grandiflora form when ordering the other, and where
this is so, it should be taken care of. Of quite easy
culture in light or medium well-drained loam, its
nodding Snowdrop-like buds have a very pretty
appearance before the fully-opened flowers appear
in May. For good distinctive varieties of such
things, the best method of increase is by division.

Dianthus Pulhamii. — For the larger rock ,
garden in June, this fine single-flowered, deeply-
fringed Pink is particularly good. The plant
grows I foot high and has blush pink, crimson-
based flowers of ij inches across, which, backed
by a neat tuft of glaucous leaves, make a great
show. Like all its tribe, it is of quite easy culture
in gritty loam and old mortar. Pipings in July
are the best method of increase, though seedlings
might also be raised. E. H. J.

THE GREENHOUSE.

A S d

A

BEAUTIFUL PLANTS FOR HOUSE
DECORATION.

(SCHIZANTHUSES.)

decorative subjects during the spring
and early summer months Schizan-
thuses are difficult to beat, as with
ordinary cultivation in a cool green-
house a succession of bloom can be
had from March till the middle or end
of June by sowing at different dates in the autumn
and early spring. Though autumn-sown plants
give the best results, both for size and floriferous-
ness, February sowings are not to be despised,
as really excellent plants are to be obtained in
4j-inch and 6-inch pots, the chief essential in each
instance being a very steady growth in a house
with plenty of light and air at all times. This is
especially desirable when the plants are coming into
flower, for if given shade and a trifle too much heat
at this time, the flower-stems become attenuated
and are apt to fall about in a very ungainly manner.
As decorative plants for the dwelling-house,
winter garden, or conservatory, there is no annual
that will give a better return for the trouble taken
with them, and as the varieties are so distinct
in habit and colour, they seem to adapt themselves
to any and every decorative scheme.

In my early days of gardening I can only remem-
ber the old pinnatus type being grown to any
extent, and as far as my memory serves me, th^y
were of much more straggling habit than the
strains we get now ; but having a very large
conservatory to furnish, they impressed me very
much, as the plants were grown five or six in a
i2-inch pot and attained a height of about six feet.
Even now, where large plants are wanted for
the conservatory, a good strain of pinnatus and
I pinnatus rosea are about the best. It is true that
we have strains of large-flowered varieties which
vary greatly in colour from white through the
various shades of mauve and pink to a dull red or
magenta ; but none of them produce the same beau-
tiful gauzy effect as do the first-mentioned varieties,
and some of the strains, to be seen from a decora-
tive point of view, are not worth perpetuating.

The plant shown on page 372 is of the type men-
tioned. It was pinched about twice in the early
spring and potted finally into a 12-inch pot, and when
photographed it was probably 6 feet 6 inches in
height, 2 feet 6 inches to 3 feet in diameter, and
was one of several such plants which were used for
furnishing the winter garden here. The larger-
flowering hybrids, as they are called, I find do not
make such large plants, 8j-inch pots being large
enough for them ; but these also are very useful
for house and conservatory decoration, especially
it the colours are chosen with care.

The wisetonensis type is quite distinct, both iii
the habit of plant and colour of bloom, and where
smaller plants are required of compact form
these are excellent, the yellow markings in many
of the plants making them especially desirable
foils to the mauves of some of the other types.
A bright rose pink form of this type sometimes
met with should be developed, and if it could be
had true, I am sure it would command a ready
sale. Amateurs and others whose greenhouse
accommodation is limited would be well advised
to grow only the wisetonensis varieties, as a good
many plants can be grown in a small space.

The retusus type is also quite distinct from the
others. The orange or yellow blotch in the centre

372

THE GARDEN.

[July 26, 1913.

of the bloom makes it quite striking in colour,
the main portion of the bloom varying in different
varieties from pure white to almost a carmine,
and for grouping purposes, either at exhibitions
or in the conservatory, they are eminently suitable.
Also as cut flowers these varieties stand well,
and are much admired for table decoration. Un-
fortunately, these latter are not quite as easy of
cultivation as are most of the others ; but with
fairly careful watering during the winter they
should present no serious difficulties to the ordinary
gardener.

Cultural Hints. — To be really successful with all
or any of the varieties, a sowing should be made in
September or October, preferably in
small pots, four or five seeds in a
pot, thinning the seedlings to one
in a pot when large enough to
handle. Keep them during the
winter on a shelf in a quite cool
house, potting on as the pots
become full of roots until the
desired size of pot is reached.
Where a really light and airy span-
roofed house can be requisitioned
for growing them, pinching is not
necessary, unless it is to retard the
flowering period, and they will
make quite shapely plants without
it ; but when grown with other
plants it is sometimes advisable to
pinch them once or twice to make
them a little more bushy.

In a close, stuffy atmosphere, or
if too much heat is given, the
growth very quickly becomes
attenuated and the keeping quali-
ties of the blooms are much im-
paired. When the flowering pots
are full of roots, they will take
liquid manure quite freely ; but
too much artificial manure is not
advisable. At no time during their
growth will they stand drought at
the roots, so, in addition to plenty of
light and air, careful watering is the
one other detail absolutely essential
to success. Thomas Stevenson.

Addlestone, Surrey.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

THE EARLY PLANTING OF STRAW
BERRIES.

HE daily gathering and consuming of
bounteous dishes of luscious Straw-
berries during the past few weeks
lead us to wonder how it is that this
fruit receives such scant attention
from the average amateur. The pro-
fessional gardener has of necessity to grow it well,
and keep up a succession over as long a period as
possible ; but in the majority of comparatively

T

CASSIA CORYMBOSA.

This lovely shrub is in full flower
during the month of July when
treated as a cool greenhouse sub-
ject, a little earlier when some
heat is given, and during the latter
half of July and the first part of
August when grown in a sheltered
corner outside. Half-ripened shoots
root readily if inserted in a sandy
compost in heat, and harder wood
will form roots if placed in a cool
frame. Plants may also be raised from seeds sown
m April. They make splendid specimens when
grown in lo-inch pots, and arc most useful
to amateurs who possess unheated or only
slightly-heated glass structiures. In the Southern
Counties the plants will succeed against a south
wall, and require very little protection in the
winter-time. Fibrous loam two parts, peat one
part, with leaf-soil and sand one part, form
a suitable compost both for plants in pots and
borders. The colour of the flowers is a rich butter-
cup yellow, and they are borne in clusters. B.

A BEAUTIFUL SPECIMEN PLANT OF SCHIZANTHUS PINNATUS
SIX FEET IN HEIGHT.

small gardens, i.e., those from a quarter of an acre
to an acre in extent, and where much of the work
is done by the owner, the Strawberry-bed is too
often one of the most neglected features. We
have wondered, too, why it is that market-growers
of this fruit pin their faith solely to one variety,
usually Royal Sovereign. The result of this is
th.at for about a fortnight, especially during a good
season like the present, the market is glutted with
fruit, after which very little is obtainable, and that
at a greatly enhanced price. The late Strawberries
always make better prices than midseason ones.

and often better than the earliest ; hence it would
appear to be a good investment for anyone who
would take up their cultivation on a comprehensive
scale.

This brings us to the heading of this article,
viz., the value of early planting. The bed from
which we have been enjoying fruit for at least
four weeks, and which promises to give us a good
supply for nearly another three, was planted
at the end of July last year, and therein lies its
success. Had planting been postponed until
well into September, as is too often the case,
fruit would have been, to use an aphorism, con-
spicuous by its absence. The plot had been pre-
viously heavily manured, deeply
trenched, and cropped with
Potatoes Midlothian Early, which
were lifted in the green state for
immediate use. Then the ground
was forked over, all lumps broken
up well, and subsequently allowed
to settle for a week or so before
the Strawberries were planted.
These were put in rows about eigh-
teen inches apart and the plants a
foot asunder in the row, the idea
being to remove every other plant
and row after the fruit is all
gathered this year. The plants
were well watered until thoroughly
istablished, so that they had every
opportunity of making good crowns
last autumn. It is this point that
needs attention if a crop of fruit
IS to be obtained the year follow-
mg planting. Care must also be
exercised so that the crowns are
not buried too deeply, and the
roots should be spread out well
in the soil, which needs to be made
firm around them. The point of
the crowns whence the roots spring
should be just level with the sur-
face of the soil after the operation
ijf planting is completed.

We have already indicated that
this bed has given us fruits for
four weeks, and promises to do so
for at least three more. The secret
of this is that the plot was divided
into three equal portions, and these
were planted respectively with
Royal Sovereign, The Bedford, and
Laxton's Latest. The first named
was the first to ripen, and a right
royal crop did it yield. Before it
had finished. The Bedford was
giving us its earliest fruits and, if
anything, in greater abundance than
the first named. At the time of wTit-
ing we are still gathering from the
plants, and Laxton's Latest has
just ripened its first fruits. Royal
Sovereign is too well known to need description.
The Bedford is an excellent variety, with rather
rounded fruits and white flesh. It is much sweeter
than Royal Sovereign and a good dessert Strawberry.
Laxton's Latest produces enormous fruits, which, in
spite of their size, are solid and of good brisk Pine-
apple flavour. They are dull crimson in colour, but
the flesh when broken is bright scarlet crimson and
very luscious. There are, of course, many other
good Strawberries, but for the average garden
these three would suffice and keep up a succession
over n long period. Plants of them are obtainable

OVER

July 26, 1913.]'

THE GARDEN.

3t3

Irom any of the fruit nurserymen now advertising
in our pages, and no time should be lost in preparing
a bed and gettmg the young plants established.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON FRUIT.

Strawberry-Beds. — Here is an excellent rule
to apply to the Strawberry-bed : Clean it
thoroughly immediately the crop is harvested.
It is too common for this task to be deferred until
late in the summer, and some cultivators even
neglect it until the autumn. Any delay results
in loss. The instant the fruit is finished the nets
should be withdrawn, every weed pulled or cut
out, all runners not wanted for propagation removed,
all leaves that show the slightest mdications of
disease picked off, and the bed left clean and tidy.
One thus gives light and fresh air the chance
to find their way to the crowns of the old plants
as well as to the runners rooting in small pots,
squares of turf, or the soil between
the rows. The benefit is immediate
as far as the runners are concerned,
and is postponed as far as the
crowns are concerned, but it is
there, nevertheless.

Layering and Planting. — In con-
nection with the formation of new
plantations of Strawberries, two im-
portant tasks present themselves to
the grower, and both are of con-
siderable urgency. By fixing down
the plantlets or rimners we secure
fresh stock for extensions, and it is
impossible to start too soon. The
present is well on the late side ;
but if stock is short, go ahead, and
finely-rooted plants will be at com-
mand for planting soon after th'
middle of August. Take the first
or second runner on the strig and
remove all beyond. Attach securely
to the soil in small pots or to the
soil of the alleys, see that it never
becomes dry, and progress will be
quickly apparent. The important
task of planting ought to be in
full swing. Bear in mind that the
life of a Strawberry-bed is a short
one — it rarely exceeds three years,
and is often shorter — and deter-
mine that it shall be a profitable
one. To that end do not spare
really first-class cultivation of the
soil, and see that the top is
beautifully friable as a result of
excellent mechanical culture.

Budding. — The majority of amateurs restrict
their experiments in this interesting process to the
Rose garden, but they should also have a try
with fruit trees. All kinds respond perfectly,
and budded trees are invariably the equals, and
oftentimes the superiors, of those that are grafted.
The essential points to be observed are identical
with those applicable to Roses, and need not,
therefore, be repeated in this column. It is certain
that the amateur who has successfully budded his
own fruits will be a proud man.

Watering and Feeding. — Although it is cus-
tomary to restrict the watering of fruit to the trees
growing on walls, it pays to extend the operation
to the trees in the open quarters of the garden
during periods of drought. When these come,
spare no efforts to thoroughly soak the soil to a
depth of 3 feet, and rest perfectly assured that

the results will amply justify the time and attention
that have had to be devoted to the task. As a
rule, two soakmgs will suffice, but a third must
not be withheld if it is deemed necessary. It
pays, too, to supplement the clear water with
liquid manure in the majority of instances, and
especially so with the trees on walls. Whatever
may be done in this direction must follow the
water and not precede it, since there is always an
element of danger in the application of liquid
manure to dry soil, and this may be taken as
appUcable throughout all departments of the
garden

Insect Pests. — The importance of maintaining
a sharp watch for insect attacks cannot possibly
be over-estim.ited. Each tree ought to be sub-
jected to a close scrutiny at least once a week,
and preferably more frequently, because the earlier
an infestation is observed the easier will eradication

TREES AND SHRUBS.

THE MOONLIGHT BROOM.

(CVTISUS SCOPARIUS SULPHUREUS.)

OF the many Brooijis in cultivation,
V none is more worthy of a place
I in English gardens than the Moon-
r light Broom, and one fails com-
pletely to understand how it is
that it is seldom seen and is com-
paratively little liiiown, save to the few who are
aware of its great beauty. For planting in open
woodland or on banks of light soil it has few equals,
the sulphur yellow flowers being produced in such
profusion during May and June that they appear
to illuminate the surrounding landscape. Any
place where the conmion Broom or Gorse thrives
will suit the requirements of the Moonlight Broom.
It is not a tall-growing plant of leggy habit, such.

A LARGE

BED OF THE MOONLIGHT BROOM, CYTISUS SCOPARIUS SULPHUREUS, A BEAUTIFUL

SHRUB FOR POOR SOIL.

prove to be. Most of these pests multiply with
wonderful rapidity, and neglect of inspection
for two or three weeks may result in a tree or trees
becoming absolutely smothered with an enemy
which will suck out the life juices and thus prejudice
the crop of this year as well as that of the future.
Whenever insects are found the shoots ought
to be well syringed with some insecticide,
using a syringe with a spraying nozzle, and
preferably one that has a bend or elbow at
the end. This enables the operator to force
the liquid well on to the under sides of the
leaves, a position usually selected by pests for
their attacks. Often the foliage is badly curled
and it is no easy task to reach the insects,
hence more than ordinary care is necessary
if a complete eradication of the pests is to be
effected.

alas ! as many Brooms are, but it is of a more or
less drooping nature, flowering from the uppermost
branches to the ground, as shown in the accom-
panying illustration. The Moonlight Broom is
one of the many varieties of the common Broom,
Cytisus scoparius. It is as hardy as the Gorse,
and so exceedingly beautiful that no garden can
be complete without it.

SHRUBS FOR DRY SOILS.

The Rock Roses.
The Cistuses or Rock Roses are excellent plants for
clothing dry, sunny banks, for they are usually of
compact growth and cover somewhat unfavourable
positions with greenery for nine months of the year,
whereas during the other three months the foliage
is in some cases almost hidden by flowers, especially
during the early part of each day. The doubtful

374

THE GARDEN.

[July 26, 1913.

hardiness of a number of the species may be urged
against them as a reason why their culture should
not be general, but as they are so easily propagated,
both by seeds and cuttings, this need not be accepted
as a serious argument, for if a' few young plants
of the more tender kinds are reared each autumn
in anticipation of a severe winter, they take up
little room if stored in a cold frame, and come in
to fill the vacancies caused by deaths from frost.
I'ortunately, young plants grow rapidly when
planted out ; therefore they soon become large
enough to furnish gaps. There is one point in
their culture which needs con-
sideration, that being the provision
of permanent positions when Ihey
are first planted out, for if planted
in nursery quarters and afterwards
transferred elsewhere a great many
will die, or be seriously injured,
however carefully the work is
accomplished. Therefore if the
position is not ready for the plants
when they require planting, place
them in larger pots until they
can be put in their permanent
position. When plants are becom-
ing crowded, a number should be
cut out and destroyed rather
than try to transplant them.
Cuttings of many kinds taken
during summer and inserted in
sandy soil in a cold frame root
quite readily, while seeds of othei
kinds, collected when ripe and
stored in a cool room until Feb-
ruary, germinate in a few days if
sown in pots of sandy soil in a little
heat.

Any ordinary garden soil is suit-
able for Cistuses, even that of a
light, gravelly character, providing
it is dug deeply previous to planting
and the plants are kept watered
until established. In fact, rich
soil is to be avoided, for it en-
courages rank growth, which is
more liable to injury in winter
than that of a sturdier character.
I'ractically no other pruning is
required than the removal of the
flower-heads as soon as flowering
is over, except a few which may
be required for seeds. Where a
large group cannot be formed, it is
usually possible to find room for a
few plants ; if nowhere else, then
on the rockery or wall, for they are
excellent for rockery planting. It
is, however, when seen as a large
mass that their beauty is most
apparent.

Between 1825 and 1830 the ^ LARGE

botanist Robert Sweet prepared a
work on the Cistinea', and in
that book full descriptions of most of the Cistuses
grown at the present time are to be found, in addition
to descriptions of other showy kinds which appear
to have been lost to cultivation. Of the numerous
species and hybrids, the (oUowmg are specially
worthy of note :

Cistus albidus. — This is a rather tender species
from South-West Europe, characterised by greyish,
lance-shaped leaves and bright rose-coloured flowers.

C. corbariensis is considered to be a hybrid
between C. popufifolius and C. salvifolius, and it

is one of the hardiest sorts. Growing about two
feet high, it forms a compact bush bearing ovate
or cordate leaves and white flowers. The latter
are about one and a-half inches across, and from
one to five flowers appear together from the points
of the branches.

C. cypriUS. — This is a native of Cyprus and
resembles C. iadaniferus in foliage and growth,
but there is a difference in the arrangemeht of the
flowers. It forms erect branches 3 feet to 4 feet
high, bearing rather narrow, lance-shaped leaves,
which are dark green above and silvery beneath.

It grows upwards of si.^; fee!; high, is of rather loose
habit if not pruned a little when young, and is
easily recognised by its ovate leaves, which arc
3 inches or more long, up to ij inches wide, and
dark green above and silvery beneath. The
white flowers are between 2 inches and 3 inches
across and are borne with considerable freedom.

C. Loretii is one of the sturdiest and most
beautiful of all. Forming a bush at least 4 feet
high and 4 feet through, it is well clothed with
rich dark green leaves and bears terminal heads
of large white flowers, each petal having a rich
crimson blotch at the base. It is
fairly hardy and is of hybrid
origin. C. Iadaniferus is said to
be one of its parents.

C. monspeliensis is another hardy
species from the Mediterranean
region. Forming a bush ij feet to
2 feet high and 2 feet to 3 feet
across, it represents a perfect globe
of white flowers during early
?ummer.

C. recognitus is a hybrid
between C. laurifolius and C.
monspeliensis. It is hardy and of
vigorous growth.

Of the coloured kinds C. villosus
is one of the hardiest. It has greyish
leaves and rosy purple flov/ers.
Several varieties of this species, such
as creticus, rotundifolius ana undu-
latus, are known, all of which have
rose or rosy purple flowers. C.
tauricusis another species with rose-
coloured flowers, while perhaps the
darkest coloured of all is C. pur-
pureus. In this case the flowers
have dark blotches at the bases ol
the petals. As a rule the species
with rose or purple flowers are
less hardy than the white- flowered
kinds ; moreover, they arc some-
what more difficult to raise from
cuttings ; therefore care should be
taken to save a few seeds each
autuimi. D.

AND Wr.LL - FLOWERED BUSH OF THE VINE- LEAVED
ABUTILON IN A SOMERSET GARDEN.

The flowers are from 3 inches to 3i inches across,
white, with a rich crimson blotch at the base of
each petal, several flowers being bome together
in each inflorescence. Branches, leaves and flower-
stems are rather glutinous.

C. Iadaniferus, a native of South-West F.urope,
differs from the last named by its flowers appearing
singly instead of several together. In other respects
they are much alike.

C. laurifolius, the hardiest of all tl\e Cistuses,
is found in the same region as the last named.

THE VINE - LEAVED
ABUTILON.

Or choice flowering shruljs, the
Vine - leaved Abutilon, A. viti-
foliura, is one of the most in-
teresting. A native of Chili, it is
not hardy in very cold districts,
but in many parts of the Southern
Counties it can be successfully
grown and flowered, providing it
is afforded shelter from cold
winds. In the Western and
South - Western Countiesit
flourishes quite in the open, and
the accompanying illustration,
from a photograph kindly sent us by Colonel
H. Moore, Higher Woodcombe, Minehead, Somerset,
serves to show how freely it grows and flowers
there. This shrub is growing between a fine bush
of Pittosporum and a tall plant of Ceanothus
azureus. The flowers of this Abutilon are pale
lavender blue in colour, and the leaves resemble
in shape those of the Vine ; lience its specific name.
It needs warm, well-drained soil, and, as already
indicated, protection from cold winds in all except
the most favoured districts.

JULY 26. 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

375

_„ _ _| fkUfBD O ARn^N '^''"' ' '■^^^^ "° apology for heading this paragraph

' "^ ruVPYVEn UMnbTEi'v. ^^ j j^^^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^j exceedingly sorry

to hear of her illness, and her enforced absence
UAhrOUlU IN (J Its. from all oui spring shows made a gap in our ranks ;

Lists. — Ever since the season began we have had but we hoped she would soon recover. I am sorry
tiiem — " Oversea List," " Preliminary List," to say her recovery is but slow, and much to my
" Foreign and Colonial List," " Surplus List," regret I now learn that she is compelled to entirely
" Abridged List " and so on. Many of us have give up her business. I remember Miss Currey
purchased and our pockets have had no time to once saying to me, " I don't think I have made
refill, when, lo and behold '. the lists begin to many mistakes in the stocks I have bought." I
arrive. I read in the papers the other day of an do not suppose she has, for I always look upon her
American millionaire who lamented that he could as a woman with great critical taste and business
not get even with his income. All, however, acumen. She has got some splendid things at
that he seemed to be doing was to charter such The Warren Gardens, Lismore, and her inter-
inexpensive things as special trains, and then do esting sale offers will well repay a perusal. I
a httle journey of two or three thousand miles in should like both amateurs and traders to rally
a few days under the scheduled time of the fastest round and buy up her remaining bulbs. There
express. Should this meet his eye, might I suggest is something in her collection to suit everyone,
his becoming a Daffodil enthusiast. Judging from only remember " first come, first served." I
experience, it might help matters very considerably, always associate the name of Fanny Currey with
I do not think I have ever met anyone
who has been able to buy all that
tbey wanted. " I must wait until
Croesus drops to nine potmds," or
"When Challenger is five poimds I
intend to buy a bulb." New Daffodils
soon find the cupboard bare. Next
week I intend to devote the whole
of my notes to the question of pur-
chasing for shows and show matters
generally. August is the last month
in which we can do this, for if. the
bulbs are not in the ground before
the end of the month, one's chances
of success are jeopardised. I am glad
to think that would-be exhibitors will
this year have as a help what they
have never had before — the " Royal
Horticultural Society's Daffodil Year
Book" (to be obtained from the
Royal Horticultural Society's Offices,
Vincent Square, S.W., for the sum of
half-a-crown). In this publication,
among other things, wUl be found a
detailed list of all the prize-winning
flowers shown in London and at Bir-
iiiiugh.im in 1913. I remember from
my pantomime days the refrain of a
certain topical song which seems to
meet the case here :

" What could you wish for more, my boys ?
What could you wish for more ? "

The best practical advice that I can

give is, "Buy this Year Book, andorder

it at once." I hope it will be published

very early in August. Then, having

got it, " Study the lists carefully."
The Merodon. — I hear complaints from various

quarters of the presence of this unwelcome visitor.

That hot summer of 191 1 appears to have "done

the miscliief." Ever since then we have had the

merodons in considerable numbers. Mr. Stocks of

Doncaster has been " on to them " again this year,

and I fancy before long he is going to give us his
I new experiences in print. Meanwhile I would suggest
t soaking the bulbs in water for twenty-four hours
I if there are any quantity of them that are supposed
! to be affected.

Fanny Currey. — I have frequently asked resi-
dents in the South of Ireland if they knew Miss
! Currey, and two out of three invariably said,

"Do you mean Fanny Cmrey ? " This usage

of the Christian name among men denotes a good

fellow or a popular chap. Miss Currey is one of

the best, and accordingly, now m\' meaning is

see more and more people take it up. The choice
of parents is so wide and the potentiality of the
Narcissus family is so great that all its possibilities
will not be exhausted for many a long day. There
is here a mine of quiet enjoyment capable of finding
a pleasant occupation for any number of willing
worL.ers. .'Vgain may I say, " Get the Year
Book." Joseph Jacob.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

A DAINTY BELLFLOWER.

(Campanula pusilla Miss Willmott.)

ON many occasions we have drawn attention
to the merits of this charming Campanula
— i dwarf variety with flowers of the
softest silvery blue shade. It is one of the
most beautiful of dwarl Campanulas, and

CAMP.\NaL.\ PUSILL.V MISS WILLMOTT, ONE Ol THE MOST POPULAR VARILULS 1 OK IllE ROCK GARDEN.

those delicate-looking, refined, pure white trumpets
White Knight, Lady of the Snows, -Atalanta,
Avalanche and Mrs. Robert Sydenham. But her
taste was catholic, and among her other purchases
were Challenger, Michael, Crcesus, Firetail, Warrior,
and more recently still Crosfield's lov.;!y scarlet-
eyed Tara Ranee. I have said enough. It only
remains for me to assure her of our deep sympathy
with her in her enforced retirement.

Seeds. — ^The seed crop has not been a very
large one. Both Mr. Engleheart and Mr. Walter
Ware report large pods with but little in them.
My own experience coincides with theirs. The
latter ended up one of his letters to me something
like this : " However, I expect there will be quite
as many as I shall want." The truth is, it is a
fairly easy matter to obtain seed, and as the fasci-
nation of seedling-raising is very great, I hope to

this year it has attracted more attention than
usual at the summer flower shows, where it
has been freely planted in the exhibits of alpine
gardens. It is a profuse bloomer, producing
masses of its dainty bells, being admirably adapted
for growing in the crevices of old walls and between
rocks and stones. One of the most effective ways
of growing it is in the paved garden, where it will
thrive in the chinks between the paving-stones.
We have in mind a paved Lavender walk with this
Campanula freely used. The study in pleasing
tones of blue and grey is one not readily forgotten.
In the cultivation of Campanulas it is well to
remember that all of them, more especially the
alpines, love limestone. It is, for instance, on the
grassy downs over chalk hills that the common
Hairbell, Campanula rotundifolia, grows so freely
and flowers in wild profusion.

376

THE GARDEN.

[July 26, 1913.

1

By the annual sowings the stock is always being
replenished. The same takes place in Nature.
No doubt many tufts perish there annually,
and yet invariably, in every spring, meadows and
roadsides are replete with their hundreds and
thousands of the blue stars of G. verna.

Planegg, Bavaria. E. Heinrich.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON
VEGETABLES.

So far the season has not been an ideal one for
vegetables, especially in cool districts and where

GENTIANA VERNA IN GRASS.

Gentiana verna in the majority of cases s a
difficult subject in the rock garden wheu
planted in loose, open soil. The tufts will,
as a rule, commence increasing satisfactorily,
but they soon find their limit. Continued
wet will often cause black patches in large
tufts ; then come ants and other vermin to work
mischief beneath the protecting cover, earth-
worms pull about the rootless new growths, and
in a short time a proud tuft will look unsightly or
perish altogether. G. verna is only truly enchanting
when growing in masses, forming large colonies
among the grass with hundreds of expanded blossoms
on them ; but how is this to be
effected in the garden when every
fresh effort to establish it satisfac-
torily ends in the same failure ?

I had almost given up its culture
as a bad job ; but how can we do
without this most beautiful gem of
early spring ? No rock garden would
be complete without it. After
racking my brains lor a successful
method of growing the plant, I hit
upon a plan which I thought worth
trying. " Back to Nature," I said,
and as in summer on our exces-
sively dry soil a good close lawnis,
without spending a great deal of
labour over it, not to be obtained, I
resolved to beautify my shabby
grass plot — for the springtime at
least, when it is still fairly green —
by trying to establish G. verna
thereon. It grows and flourishes to
perfection on meadows and along
the roadside outside my garden ;
why should I not get it to grow on
my lawn ? Instead of challenging
fresh disappointments by trying it
over and over again in the rock
garden, I consequentlystarted, three
years ago, to sow seeds all over the
grass in ftbe autumn, and repeated
the process every autumn following.
This year X had the triumph of a
first result in twenty-eight nice
flowering tufts, and on a close search
I discovered, to my intense joy, that
the whole of the grass was studded
with young seedlings, so that I feel
justified in presuming that I shall
shortly beat Nature outside my
garden by a veritable carpet in blue
on my own grounds. G. verna re-
quires a fibrous body to root in and
a clothed surface to push its young
growths into, both of which can
only suitably be given to it among
a fairly loose grass sward.

On a close, velvety lawn, of course, success the soil is of a cold, clayey nature. Even in
would scarcely follow. One should therefore medium heavy soils I learn that seeds of Carrots,
keep a grass plot in a somewhat starved condition Onions, Beet and Peas tailed to germinate. The
for the purpose. It is a mistake to suppose that plants from later sowings are healthy and very
G. verna requires a rather moist or even a wet promising, but much later than usual,
position. The soil here is excessively dry, and Celery, — The maincrop plants in light soils
in summer sometimes so utterly parched that he are now growing freely. Those in clayey ground
might be considered — by anyone not having seen are just beginning to produce new central leaves ;
it thrive and luxuriate in such positions — a bold but, fortunately, these new leaves and stalks
man who attempted to prepare a similar plot appear to be very strong. I have seen plants
for its culture in his rock garden. True, the plant grown in a cold, clayey soil make very little progress
also occurs in moist and even in wet places, but in cool summers, and when the time came to use
never there to such perfection nor in anything them the sticks were very small, but quite solid,
like such numbers. However, the cultivator wants a fair bulk in

THli MiW RUbL JlKb. 1 . W. V Ai\ UiiKblLI, .WV.VRUIlD A GOLD MEDAL AT
THE NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY'S PROVINCIAL SHOW AT GLOUCESTER.

addition to good quality, and where plants inj
heavy soils are not making satisfactory progress,
the cultivator should pass some well-decayed leaf-
soil through a i-inch mesh sieve, mix a small
quantity of rotted manure and road scrapings with
it, and top-dress the Celery, putting the mixture
on in a layer about one inch deep. New roots
will soon permeate the compost, and then the top
growth will be much freer. When the roots are
numerous, judicious feeding will help matters con-
siderably.

Dwari or French Beans.— A late sowing of
these should be made in one of the warmest borders
in the garden. Drop the seeds 9 inches apart
m shallow drills 18 inches asunder;
single rows are better than double
ones. If the soil is very dry, pour
water in the open drills before
sowing the seeds and covering
them ; then germination will be
rapid. By adopting this plan I
have had some of the best crops
of the season, the pods being
straight and axceptionally tender.
^- Open-air Tomatoes. — The soil
around the roots must be main-
tained in an even state as regards
moisture, otherwise many fine fruits
may be lost through splitting; when
split, decay soon sets in. No feed-
ing should be done except when the
soil is moist. In order to get all
the fruits ripened which are now
setting on the plants, cut off the
tops beyond the last-formed truss
of fruits. When swelling, feed the
plants regularly, and all the fruit
will mature, be solid and heavy
in regard to size.

Beet and Carrots. — The first

named is a very tender root, and
when the workman is engaged in
hoeing between the rows he should
be very careful to avoid stabbing
the crowns with his hoe, as when
bruised in any way the root bleeds
considerably, and then the colour is
pale instead of being deep and rich
when boiled. Carrots should be
eased up in the soil when lifted for
use ; if forcibly pulled they are
jruised, and the marks show pale
in colour when the Carrots are
cooked and placed on the table.
Both kinds of vegetables grow best
when the surface soil is kept loose
by frequent hoeing and free from
weeds, also when the plants are
exposed to all winds that blow.
Seakale and Rhubarb. — Flower-
stems are more numerous on these
plants in some seasons than in others. They are
not plentiful this year, but the cultivator
should cut off every stem he can find, but
not too low down. As long as he removes
the portion bearing flowers, the object aimed
at will be gained.

Asparagus. — The rule is generally observed that
when Peas are plentiful the cutting of Asparagus
ceases. It is never advisable to continue the
cutting of Asparagus for too long a time, how-
ever fine the produce may be; but when cutting
does stop, the beds are otten neglected and weeds-
grow apace. The best policy ie to keep the bed*
clean all the year round. Avon.

July- 26, 1913 J

THE GARDEN.

377

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO INCREASE THE SIBERIAN FLAG (IRIS SIBIRICA)

EVERYONE should make an eSort to
grow this plant, for there are few, if
any, more beautiful yet easily-grown
members of the Iris family. While
Iris sibirica will grow in most soils and
positions, those to avoid are dry and
shaded spots overhung with trees. The greatest
success may be looked for in a rich, moist soil and
one where plenty of sunshine reaches the plants.
Though few readers may be able to find it in their
gardens, perhaps the happiest of all spots for this
Iris is by the side of a pond, stream, or lake, and
we refer readers to the illustrated notes which
appeared in last week's issue on this subject.
In association with water the Siberian Flag makes
a glorious display during the second half of May and
in early June. But there are other ways of attaining
success with this Iris. It may find a place in the
mixed border, the pride of hundreds of town and
suburban gardens. Should the soil be rather poor,
or the season a dry one, mulch the plants with some
old rotten manure, and water liberally during
dry periods.

Propagation. — The usual method of increase is
to lift and divide the clumps or tufts during July
soon after floweriftg, unless it is desirable to save
the seeds, in which case propagation must be
deferred until the seeds are ripe. Great care is
necessary when dividing the clumps not to break

:. — THE

the roots, or, at any rate, to do a~

little damage to them as possible.

A spade is sometimes used to chop

a clump such as that shown in Fig. i

in pieces ; this is drastic treatment,

from which the plants will not

recover for a couple of years. The

right way to divide clumps of the

Siberian Iris is shown in Fig. 2.

A couple of hand-forks ar% placed

back to back in the centre of the

clump and pressed outwards. This

will divide the clump in two ; these

are again divided with the forks in

the same way till the pieces are

considered a suitable size to plant.

It naturally follows that the larger

the pieces for replanting, the quicker

they will produce a good display

of flowers. Fifteen inches apart is

a suitable distance to plant the

divided pieces, but it may vary

from I foot to li feet at the discretion of the

cultivator. Water several times a week after plant-
ing till established. A mulching of flaky leaf-

mo)ild will assist in keeping the ground moist,

and damping over the leaves after a hot

sunny day will be beneficial.

Seeds also form a ready means of propagation,
and should be sown as soon as ripe.
It, however, takes about three years
to flower this Iris from seeds ; con-

., ■*' sequently, except with the idea of

' raising new varieties, propagation

by division of the tufts is preferred.

The Siberian Flag grows 2 feet
to 3 feet high, forming in time
large clumps or tufts of tall, slender
growths rather suggestive of a
vigorous grass. The flower-spikes,
which push up during May, bear
a succession of showy lilac blue
flowers, which are prettily veined.
In addition to the type there are
several distinct and attractive varie-
ties. Perhaps the best of these
are orientalis, with larger, deeper-
coloured flowers ; orientalis Snow
Queen, a large ivory white variety
of exquisite beauty ; alba, a useful
white variety of the type ; Baxteri,
blue and white ; Distinction, violet
and white ; George Wallace, light
blue, flaked with white ; and
superba, a tall variety \vith violet
blue flowers.

CORRECT METHOD OF DIVISION IS BY THE
MD OF H.\ND FORKS.

such the cultivator should put in cuttings of
fairly well-ripened wood at once, and keep
them growing to one stem. Each cutting should
be about six inches long and possess at least two
fully-developed leaves. The leaves from the
lowest joint must be cut off, also the stem
immediately below that joint ; then the cut-
ting will be duly prepared for insertion. Put
one cutting in a small, deep pot in a loamy,
gritty compost, making the soil very firm
around it and settling the soil by watering
it through a fine-rosed watering-can. The best
position for the cuttings to root in is a cold
frame with lightly-shaded glass. Keep the soil in
a medium state of moisture. See to the efficient
drainage of each pot. Avon.

I. — A CLUMP OF

THE SIBERI.\N FL.^G
FOR DIVISION.

NOW READY

HOW TO PROPAGATE
HYDRANGEAS.

The Hydrangea is not a difficult
plant to grow when the cuttings
are well rooted, but rooting them
is sometimes a task not easily
accomplished. For greenhouses and
conservatories the dwarf plants,
bearing one truss of flowers, are
extremely suitable. To obtain

SPINACH BEET.

To the amateur with but a limited garden accom-
modation and the desire to grow a few vegetables,
I know of nothing more remunerative than a crop
of Spinach Beet, which will yield regular pickings
over a lengthened period. From seed sown at the
end of April I have been picking for some weeks,
and am likely to continue until the spring. Of
course, as the season advances, the production of
new leaves will be slower. Where there is a space
of ground available, a crop of this Spinach Beet
may now be sown, and it will then come into
bearing early in the autumn, or even before summer
has really left us, and continue till the spring.
The ground should be deeply dug, and must be in
good condition. If necessary, some manure may
be incorporated when digging, but if it is in good
tilth no fresh manmre will be needed. The seed
should be sown in drills from i foot to rs inches
apart, and when large enough thin out the seed-
lings in the rows to within 3 inches or 4 inches
of each other. Unlike the common Beetroot, this
variety devotes its energies to the production of
leaves, which may, when large enough, be picked
off and cooked exactly like the common Spinach.
The plants must not be picked too bare at any
time, and they will then continue to rapidly
develop new leaves. H. P.

378

THE GARDEN.

[July 26, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Pleasure Grounds.

Watering. — Naturally, freshly-planted trees aiid
shrubs are the most likely to suffer from drought,
and wherever possible, in addition to watering at
the roots, they ought to be syringed overhead
as often as possible in the evening. Continual
working of the soil will do much to conserve the
moisture in the shrubberies; but where shrubs
and trees have been planted a long time, the soil
will probably have become very hard to a great
depth ; hence there will not be the amount of
reserve moisture as in freshly-dug or trenched
ground.

Mulching. — This ™ll do much to minimise the
effects of drought, but do not put it on a hard,
dry surface. Break the surface soil and give a
good watering, put the mulch on and again
water. Such treatment will probably save the lives
of many trees and shrubs which are now hanging
in the balance.

The Rock and Water Garden.

Many of the plants, having gone out of flower,
will need trimming in somewhat, and all flower-
stems and seed-pods should be removed, these
latter if left on proving a great tax on the energies
of the plants at this season.

Lily Ponds must be kept quite free of the various
weeds which are apt to infest them, as these often
grow to such an extent that they quite smother
the plants which one wishes to see do well. Small
ponds are easily kept clean by the use of the drag
or rake, but larger ponds present more difficulties,
and an old flat-bottomed boat or punt may have
to be requisitioned from which to rake out the
weeds.

The Flower Garden.

Border Carnations.— These should soon be
making a good show, and if they are not already
bursting their flower-buds, a good syringing
overhead may be given occasionally. This will
keep down thrips, which are often troublesome
during a dry season ; also a good soaking of
manure-water just as the blooms are opening
will increase the quality considerably.

Edging Plants used in summer bedding may
require pinching to preserve a good outline to the
beds, and Pyrethrums, Coleus, Fuchsias and
Iresines should be regularly gone over, keeping
them "pinched back far enough from the edge
of the bed to allow the machine to run along
without damaging it.

Plants Under Glass.

Cleaning. — If the syringing will not keep down
insect pests, then sponging or spraying must be
resorted to, and paraffin emulsion' and XL All
are both excellent insecticides when used with care.

Palms and Selaginellas must also be kept well
supplied with water, and, what is very important,
they must be kept well shaded, as, once they turn
yellow or get burnt by the sim, it will take a long
time to restore them to their natural condition
again. Clay's Fertilizer is a good manure for
either of these subjects.

Cinerarias, Primulas and Calceolarias that
may have been raised about the time recommended
in the calendar and subsequently pricked off into
pans or boxes should soon be ready for potting off
into 3-inch pots. Primulas require a little more
warmth in the early stages of growth than the
other two subjects, but the soil to be used and
treatment generally is on similar lines. After
potting, shading in each instance is necessary,
but when nicely rooted in the pots both Calceo-
larias and Cinerarias may have the lights partially
removed on fine, dry nights. This will produce a
stockiness in growth not obtained in anv other
wav.

The Kitchen Garden.

Spring Cabbage. — Towards the end of the week
a sowing of Cabbage should be made, to be followed
fourteen days later by another sowing to provide
the main batch. If the soil is dry, the drills should
be watered before sowing. This will facilitate
germination, and is much better than having to
water the young seedlings as soon as thev are
through the soil.

Endive. — ^Take the earliest opportimity of
planting out a good batch of this salad for autumn
and winter use, and if the beds are planted about
five feet to six feet wide, lights may be placed over
them as desired. Needless to add, the plants will
want well looking after as regards water if they
are not planted during a showery time.

Fruits Under Glass.

Early Vines. — Vines from which all the fruit
has been cut and again intended for early forcing
next season should, as far as possible, be allowed
to rest. Though the roots must on no accoimt
get unduly dry, too much moisture is apt to
keep the Vines growing too long. For this reason
also all syringing overhead should be stopped,
though an eye must be kept on the foliage to see
that insect pests do not get a footing ; if so, an
insecticide must be used to check them.

Peaches also must be treated in much the same
way, but here any neglect of water at the root
will be followed by serious results. During exces-
sively hot weather I think it is desirable to apply
a little shading to the glass, as Peaches an3
Nectarines, especially the early varieties, are apt
to get over-ripe, and this I believe to be one of the
causes of bud dropping in the early spring.

Hardy Fruit.

Strawberries. — Continue layering the later varie-
ties of Strawberries till sufificient has been done
to cover all possible requirements. Givon's Late
Prolific on our heavy soil is the best cropper we
have. It does not give all its fruit at one time, but
covers a particularly long season. Early layers
may be taken off as they become sufficiently
well rooted, and if stood in a semi-shady position
for a few days there will be no tendency to flag.

Old Plants that have served their purpose
should be cleared off the ground, or, if there are
no crops near by, all the rubbish may be burnt
and the ashes spread over the siurface again. Plants
that are being grown on for another year should
also be trimmed and the rubbish cleared away ; but
if the weather is dry, it is not advisable to take the
straw off for a time, or the plants may suffer, and
it is a good plan to give them a thorough watering.
This will revive them somewhat after carrying a
heavy crop. Thomas Stevenson.

{Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Stock Lobelias. — The best way to raise a stock
of Lobelia is to pot up a certain number of plants
of each variety at planting-out-time. These stock
plants should not be allowed to flower, and to
prevent this the tops of the plants should be cut
over two or three times during the growing season.

Chrysanthemums. — Attention should be given
to tying as growth proceeds. Some stimulant
may now be given to the plants, and the hoe should
be kept going among them.

Herbaceous Plants. — .A.ttention must still be
given to the tying of Asters and other autumn
subjects, care being always taken to avoid stiffness
in carrying out the operation. All decayed flower-
stems should be cut away as the various subjects
go out of bloom. This is a good time for relabelling,
as it is easy just now to verify the identity of any
variety of which one may have been in doubt.
This reminds me that in the calendar some months
ago I was bewailing the disappearance of the Acme
Label Rest. I now find that I was in error, and
that this excellent device is still obtainable in three
sizes from any leading Northern nurseryman.

Sweet Peas. — From now onwards is the period
when feeding is required. This, however, is often
overdone, proving a prolific source of " streak."
" Little and often " is a safe rule. Those who
possess soot or old fowl-manure require nothing
else. For the rest the market is plentifully supplied,
as witness the advertisements in The Garden
from time to time. Keep all spent blooms scrupu-
lously picked off twice a week.

The Rose Garden.
Disbudding. — Those who have been catering
for late blooms by planting young stock or by

growing in rather shaded positions must practise
disbudding if they would have blooms of high
excellence. The first blooms are generally the
finest, but one must have regard to the time' when
the blooms are wanted. This specially applies
to exhibition blooms wanted for a particular date.
Of course, a bloom can always be retarded for a
week or more by means of shading.

Budding.— This work is rightly mostly relegated
to the nursery experts in these days of specialising.
Still, many private growers, especially amateurs, like
to try their hand at the work, and'there is no reason
why they should not. Stocks and buds being avail-
able, all that is wanted is a good eve and deft
fingers. T budding is the most popular system
Care should be taken not to damage the cambium
on the stock, either when lifting the bark or insert-
ing the bud. The more quickly the operation is
performed the better, as the cambium is very
delicate and exposure to the air soon injures it.

Plants Under Glass.
Layering Mahnaison Carnations.— Although

now put somewhat in the shade by the Perpetuals,
the handsome blooms of the Malniaisons stili
find many admirers. It is now fully time that
layering was proceeded with, and a cold frame
partly filled with soil is the best place for the work
Turn a few old plants c;U of their pots and plunge
them in a reclining position. The work of layering
can then be proceeded with, using some fibrous,
sandy loam for working in about the lavers. Give
a good watering when the operation is' completed
and shade lightly during bright sunshine. Keep
the frame rather close till roots are emitted.

Cinerarias. — These must be potted on as
necessity requires, using a rich, light soil. Unless
the frames are facing north, the pots should be
plunged in coal-ashes or other cool, porous material.
Shade from bright sunshine, and if the leaf-mining
maggot appears, spray occasionally with Quassia
extract.

Primulas. — The remarks on Cinerarias apply
generally to such Primulas as sinensis, obconic'a
and malacoides, except that Primulas enjoy a
rather finer medium than the Cinerarias. It
should be borne in mind that some persons cannot
operate with P. obconica barehanded with impunity.

Propagating Edging Plants.— A fresh batch
of such edging plants as Panicum variegatum,
Tradescantias and the trailing Coleus should now
be rooted to keep up a fresh supply during the
autumn and winter months.

Fruits Under Glass.
Shading Black Grapes.— it is now a generally
accepted truth that black Grapes are frequently
more or less injured by being exposed to the full
blaze of the sun, and careful cultivators who have
had such an experience afford the crop a slight
shading.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Peaches. — Earwigs often prove troublesome
at this season. If lengths of Beanstalks are
adjusted among the shoots, the 'enemy will take
shelter in these during the day. Go over the
traps in the morning with a bottle, partially filled
with water, in one hand. With the other insert
one end of the Beanstalk in the mouth of the
bottle and blow smartly into the other end of the
hollow stalk. This will dislodge the enemy and
drive him into a watery grave.

Morello Cherries.— After seeing to it that all
the requisite wood is laid in and the remainder cut
out, the trees should be netted.

The Vegetable Garden.

Leeks. — If the hoe is run lightly in between
the rows, it will partly earth-up the earlier planting
if the operation was carried out as advised in the
calendar at the time. Planting may still be done
to obtain Leeks for spring use on quarters which have
been occupied by early crops.

Vegetable Marrows. — Continue to thin out and
regulate the shoots, and pollinate the female blooms
as they appear. The fruits should be cut at an
early stage, else they deteriorate in quality and
rob the succession fruits.

Peas have so far done splendidly with us. If

drought sets in, however, watering must be the

order of the day. Senator is still greatly prized

here. Charles Coi«fort.

Broomfield Cuinleiis , Davidson's Mains. Midlothian.

|ULV 2(), 1913.

THE GARDEN.

379

OBITUARY.

ROBERT SYDENHAM.

Ir IS with the deepest regret that we have to
record the death of Mr. Robert Sydenham,
head of the firm of Robert .Sydenham,
Limited, Tenby Street, Birmingham, which
ocenrred suddenly on Saturday morning
last. Mr. Sydenham attended his office
Ml the usual way and was taken ill about 11 a.m.,
and expired almost immediately. It was only on
Thursday of last week that we had the pleasure
■ •I meeting him at the National Sweet Pea Show,
and also at the dinner of the judges and committee
held at the Hotel Windsor in the evening, when
the last toast proposed was that of Mr. Sydenham.
The news of his death will come as a great shock
lo horticulturists in all parts of the world, as
Ihere were few phases of gardening that he did
not take an interest in.

Born at Salisbury in 1848, his career in the horti-
cultural world has been a most remarkable one. Up
to the year i88i he was actively engaged in the
wholesale jewellery business of Sydenham Brothers,
and it was in that year he disposed of a few
surplus bulbs from his garden among his friends,
little thinking at the time that he was laying the
fotmdations of a business which to-day is one of
the foremost in the country, and which a year or
two ago dealt with nearly thirty-nine thousand bulb
and seed orders in one season. A year or two ago
Mr. Sydenham decided to turn his business into a
private company, and with his characteristic
generosity allotted shares to his employes, his
object being not to raise additional capital, but
to give a direct interest in the business to those
members of his staff who had been with him for
many years. Up till the time of his death he,
however, still retained full control as govem-
iug director. The active interest that Mr.
Sydenham took in the Midland Daffodil Society
is known the world over, and to his personal and
generous support the success of that society is
largely due. It was his custom for some years to
entertain the judges and numerous friends at
dinner at the Grand Hotel. Birmingham, on the
evening of the first day of the Daffodil Show, and
at these dinners he gathered together Daffodil
experts from all parts of the United Kingdom,
tbe Continent, and at times from New Zealand.
Africa and other parts of the world.

Sweet Peas were a favourite flower of his, and
he took a very active interest in the affairs of the
National Sweet Pea Society, occupying the presi-
dential chair last year. The portrait reproduced
here portrays him in a characteristic attitude
among the National Sweet Pea Society's trials
at Sutton Green. His little book, " .All .\bout
Sweet Peas," was a publication that he took very
great pains to keep as up-to-date and useful as
possible, and many lovers of this flower have foimd
it of great interest and value. He took a very
keen interest in the Horticultural Club, and, indeed,
it would be impossible to name any phase of garden-
ing that did not, at some time or other, receive
support from him. It would be difficult to mention
any man who enjoyed a wider circle of friends
in the horticultural world. His genial personality
made friends of all who came into contact with
him, and his generositv was never appealed to in
vain. As an indication of the friendship that
existed between him and horticulturists generally,
we may mention that he was usually referred to
as ■' Uncle Robert." We numbered him among
our personal friends, .ind, in crimmon with many of

our readers, mourn his loss. To his widow and
family we tender our deepest sympathy in their sad
bereavement. The funeral took place at Lodge
Hill Cemetery, Birmingham, on Tuesday, the
22nd tnst.. amid many tokens of esteem, a large
number of horticultural friends being present to
pay a last tribute to a gre:it and generous man.

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE.

Oendrobium Dearei McBean's Variety.—

From Messrs. J. .md A. McBean. Oioksbridge,
Sussex. This was removed before; a description
could be secured.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Odontioda Thwaitesii Purple Emperor. —

The name is descriptive of one of the largest of
these hybrids, though the colour will not

THE L.\TE MR. ROBERT SYDENHAM.

appeal to all. From Mr. E. H. Davidson, Orchid
Dene, Twyford.

Odontioda Cooksonii venustum. — A brilliant
ruby crimson having a white-margined lip and
slight yellow crest. From Sir George Holford.

Paphinia cristata. — The sepals and petals are
3 inches to 4 inches long, acute and heavily lined
chocolate on a white ground. From Messrs.
Charlesworth.

Carnation Firefly. — A gloriously brilliant scarlet
of the largest size and nicely perfumed.

Carnation Booldiam White. — Handsome creamy
white flowers of fine form. Both from Mr. J.
Douglas, Great Bookham, Surrey.

Delphinium Mrs. W. J. Sanderson. — A siugk-
flowered variety of intense blue colomr and pure
white centre. The contrast is \'ery fine. From
Mr. J. Sanderson, Eastfield Hall, Warkworth.

All the foregoing were shown before the Royal
Horticultural Society on the 15th inst., when the
awards were made.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

FLOWER GARDEN.

SLUGS AND CANTERBURY BELLS (ColoneD.—Tiy
watering; thr haunts of the slufis with a solution of
potassium pennau^anati.'. loz. to one gallon of water .
Trapping; may be of advantage.

FUNGUS ON CAMPANULAS {A. S. T.).— The fuugu-^
i>n Campanula stenoeodoii is called ( 'oleosporiuin cam-
panulae. It is not liable to attac-k other plants than
various species of Campanula, many of which are liable to
be attacked, as are species of Adenophora. It is probably
connected with a fungus which occurs on Pines early in
the season, and passes from one to the other alternately.
The only thin'; likely to hi- of much avail is to spray thf
plants with a rose red solution of potassium,

SWEET WILLIAMS AND EELWORM {Medmenham).—
The Sweet Williams arc badly attacked by the stem
eelworm (Tylenchus devastatrix). When once the plant,
is attacked, nothing is likely to cure it, and the only thinp
to be done Is to try to prevent the recurrence of the trouble
in a succeeding year. We would recommend the immediate
destruction of the affected plants by fire, so as to check
the spread of the pest in the earth, to which it will go when
the plant dies. The soil in the affected places should be
treated with sulphate of potash in spring, or have a good
dressing of kainit in autumn.

CALCEOLARIAS FAILING (J. J/.)-— We recommend
you to avoid growing Calceolarias again in the soil in
which these have been growing. A fungus which inhabits
the soil gains entrance to the plants through the roots,
and does much damage where these plants arc grown
repeatedly on the same soil. There are other plants which
may be used to give yellow effects, such as Tagetes signata
pumila. which are not subject to this disease, and can
therefore be planted for a few years until the soil has
become free from the fungus again.

WEED IN LILY OF THE VALLEY BED (H. fl.).— The
weed is the Dog's Mercury (Mercurialis perennip), and you
will find it less difficult to eradicate than such as the
Bindweeds or Goutweed. You will of necessity have to
exercise vigilance and reduce the clumps of the Lilies to
small size to ensure getting out all the roofs of the weed.
Having done this, you might still betroubled with seedlings,
though from this cause alone there is no great occasion
for worry. Any time from the latter half of September
would be suitable for dealing with the Lilies.

CINERARIA MARITIMA AND POTENTILLAS (A'. E. L.)-
—Cineraria maritima may be increased by cuttings of
young shoots inserted in sandy soil in a 'lose frame in
spring, and by seeds sown in a warm greenhouse or frame
in Ffbruary or early March. Plants raised from seedf-
in February form useful specimens the first summer. The
shrubby Potcntillas do not require any regular pruning.
As a rule, nothing is done to them until they become dense,
then a little of the older wood is removed. They do not
flower well until they are four or five years old. Spring-
flowering Spirpeas do not require regular pruning, as is
necessary with those which bloom during summer and
autumn. They may be left unpruned for several years,
then be lightly thinned or cut back if^'outgrowing their
positions.

MISCELLANEOUS.

ERADICATING THE STINKHORN FUNGUS {Header).
— We fear it is impossible to destroy the Stinkhorn fungus
over a whole garden. We recommend you to thoroughI>
water the parts where it appears with a solution of lUt,
of copper sulphate to twenty-five gallons of water, but
take care not to touch the plants.

JUDGING COTTAGE GARDENS U- 5.). -It Is im-
possible accurately to judge cottage gardens and allot-
ments, except by marks. Your best course -vnll be to
allow a maximum of twenty for order, neatness and
system of cropping in combination ; of twelve each
for all flowers and all fruits ; and of six each for every
vegetable crop grown. You must be exceedingly careful
not to point high in the first garden, or you will find
trouble later.

COLD FRAME (Watford).— \\i a frame 6 feet by 4 feet
you are not likely to grow many plants suitable for honse
decoration. A vast number of subjects may be grown
in a cold frame during the summer months ; indeed,
they are better there than in a warmer structure ; but a
heated house is necessary for them in winter. This
applies particularly to Cyclamen, concerning which you
enquire, but tuberous Begonias may be g;rown in a cold
frame providing the tubers are wintered in a frost-proof
spot. Chrysanthemums may be grown out of doors
and protected by the frame when the nights get cold
till the blossoms expand, but for this purpose the frame
would have to be of considerable depth ; in fact, too
deep for other plants to be grown successfully tliereiu.
As the season is so far advanced, there is nothing that
we can recommend for present sowing likely to give
satisfactory floral returns before winter. The Schi-
zanthuses are just now very popular as decorative plants,
and seeds of these may be sown about the end of August.
The resultant plants may be potted into small pots' and
wintered in the frame, taking care that they are covered
during severe frost.

NAMES OF FRUIT.— AKss 2>*o?n6rfli'ft. — Gooseberry,
Lancer; Currant, White Dutch.

NAMES OF PLANTS. — T. C. Ashdovm. — Shrub,

Deutzia gracilis flore pleno. Rose, R6ve d'Or.

^Tr8. M. Mniiland Gardner. — Rose Paul's Early Blush.

380

THE GARDEN.

[July 26, 191:

n. 11. x.— 1, Joan Soapeit ; 2. Mrs. W. .7. Ui-aiit ;

.1. Mildred Giant ; 4, Kaiseriii Augusta Victoria ; 5.
Dean Hole ; 7, Beauty of Walt ham ; 9, Marie van Houtte.

The others had fallen. Mrs. W. L. Harvey. — 1. Louis

van Houtte ; 2, Helen Keller ; 3, Lady Waterlow ;
4, Baroness Rothschild ; 5. George C. Waud : 6, Merveilli^

de Lyon. M. R., Torquay. — Medicago scutcUata

(snail-like) ; Medicago echinus (hairy fruit). S. H. B.

— Phacelia tanacetifolia. E. E. jB.— Anemone species.

specimen dried up. E. W.— 1, Campanula rotundi-

folia : 2, Sedum spurium ; 3, Armeria maritima variety,
probably laucheana ; 4, Sedum Telephium ; 5, Bocconia
c-ordata': 6, I'hragmites eomrannis variegatus ; 7, Poly-
aonum cuspidatum ; 8, Fuchsia macrostemma variety ;
n Rudbeckia species, specimen too scrappy ; 10, Achillea
Ptarmica The Pearl ; 11, Heleniuni autumnale pumiUim ;
13, Mertensia species, send when in flower ; 13, Bryngium
"iganteum ; 14, C'hrysanthemum maximum : l.'i, Cam-
pannla persieifolia alba ; 16, Chrysanthemum Partheuium

fl.-pl.; IT, Spira-a Filipendnla. C. Lemesle Adams. —

Astilhe species; specimen too small for identificatiou.

/.'. £.—1, Sedum album ; 2, Lyslmachia vulgaris ; 3,
Astrantia major; 4, .Sapina prociimbens ; 5, Inula orien-
talis ; 6, Arrhenatherum bulbosum variety variegatum.

H. G. 0. — Hieracium rubrum. John Burn. — Habe-

naria bifolia. Miss McMustree.—l. Sedum Lydium ;

2, Saxifraga trif urcata ; 3, S. geianioidcs ; 4and5, S. Geum
variety ; 0, S. acanthifolia ; 7, Centaurea dealbaf a ; 8,
Achillea Ptarmica ; 9, Lysimachia punctata ; 10, Malva
moschata ; 11, Sidaleea malvseflora : 12, Ins flowers,
decayed ; 13, Hcuchera. garden hybrid ; 14, Cephalaria
alpiiia; 15, Artemisia panictilata ; 16, A. spieata ; 17,
fialamintha grandiflora ; 18, Origanum species, send in

flower. Hortus. — Tropaeolum specinsnm. E. S. H.

— HEeraanthns tigrinus.

SOCI ETIES.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

.Vt the fortnightly meeting, held at Vincent Square on
Ihe 15th inst., there was a smaller show tlian usual, and
visitors were by no means plentiful. Some very flue
exhibits were, however, staged, and special mention must
be made of the beautiful border Carnations from Mr.
James Douglas and the pot fruit trees from Messrs. J.
Veitch and Sons.

Floral Committee.

Present: H. B. May, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs.
W. J. Bean, B. Crisp, J. Green. G. Reuthe, C. R. Fielder,
,1 W Moorman, G. Gordon, J. Jennings, J. F. McLeod,
J Dixon, C. Dixon, A. Turner, C. E. Pearson, W. Cuth-
bertson, J. T. Benuett-Poe, E. H. Jenkins. W. P. Thomson,
W. J. James, W, A. Bilney, E. A. Bowles. G. Paul and
T'. Stevenson. .

Mr. James Box, Lindflcld Xurscnes, Hayward s Heath,
arranged a goroeous bank of the finest herbaceous plants,
the group stretching from the entrance to the Orchid Annexe.
It was perhaps cue of the finest groups of these plants ever
staged and, being arranged on the floor, had a most
telling eflect. It is not easy to particularise when all
is so "good, though we may remark upon Pcntstemons,
Phloxes, Gladiolus prineeps, .Astilbcs, Iris Ksempferi,
I'auther Lilies and Water Lilies among the greater host
of plants now in flower. The arrangement of the whole
was good, the effect of quite an imposing character.

Messrs. Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, had a particularly
good table group of herbaceons flowers, Phloxes of the
best varieties, llomneya Ooulteri, Heucheras, Chrysanthe-
mum maximum in variety, the old scarlet Lychnis and other
good plants. There were some fine Gaillardias In the
group, the blue Scabiosa cancasica being very good in
colour. . ,

Mr. Howard H. Craue, Highgate, N., had a charmiug
set of Violas and Violettas, the latter of quite fairy-like
character and delightful in the extreme. Of the Violettas,
Osyth (vellow), Lavinia (mauve). Purity, Snlphurea,
Kock Lemon, Mollie (rich golden), Adeline (violet blue).
Mauve Gem, Violetta and Vesta (both of which approxi-
mate to white) were shown. For massing in beds these are
simplv ideal.

The "roup of herbaceous plants from Messrs. 1. S.
Ware, Limited, Feltham, was replete with good and
seasonable' flowcrim; subjects, the best of the Phloxes.
Campanulas. Alstrcemerias, Gaillardias, Hollyhocks and
other good plants being noted.

Messrs. F. Smith and Co.. Woodbridge, had a weD-
arran<ied group of hardy flowers, white and blue Scabious
bein ' \ erv fine. Excellent Phloxes were also sliown.
and a goodly mass of Lathyrus latifolius T'hc Pearl.
Chrysanthemum maximum The Speaker is perhaps the
largest of this flue race of flowers, and was particularly
well shown. Verbascums, Gaillardias and .Alstrojmerias
were alike good and well represented.

Colonel the Right Hon. Mark Loekwood, M.P., C.V.O.,
Romford, showed three fine fruiting specimens of Thladi-
antha dubia, the scarlet fruits being of the size of a hen's
egg and most effective.

Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, Dover, showed a
capital collection of herbaceous cut flowers, making .1 flue
central group of the pure white Carnation Downer's Pride.
The variety has not the merit of great fragrance, but for
purity and freedom would, we think, be hard to beat.
It was the flnest plant in a goodly group.

Messrs. U. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, displayed ;i
miscellaneous group of greenhouse Ferns, such genera
as Polvpodium^ Nephrolepis and GymnoKramme being,
among' others, well represenlert. Me^^rs. .May also

exhibited a splendid group of standard-grown Fuchsia
Corallie, a brilliantly-flowered triphylla hybri.l of inu<'h
merit. , .

Messrs. G. Bolton and Sou, Buntingford, Herts, staged a
•■ood table group of Roses, such as Melody, Lyon, Mrs. A.
Munt (cream). Richmond, Mrs. Aaron Ward (very pretty
in the hud state). Hugh Dickson (very fine). Rayon d'Or
and Avoca (the last two being particularly fine). Mrs. A.
Tate was also good.

Messrs. William Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, N..
displayed a table group of miscellaneous greenhouse
plants', Justieia carnea, Hydrangeas. I)rac»nas. Caladnims
and Lilies all being well shown.

.Messrs. nohhie and Co., Edinburgh, bad a very Bne
exhibit of new Sweet Peas, novelties chiefly for 1915 IB.
King White, Early Cream. Blue Picotce, New Margin
and Knbv Palmer were among the more distinct, though
many more, equally so, were only under numbers nl
present.

The Guildford Hardy Plant .Nursery had a mixed group
of hardy eat flowers, Erynsiums and Inulas beinc promi-
nent.

Hobbies, Limited, Dereham, had a small yet choice
group of Roses, Dream, Effective, Pink Pearl, Rayon
d'Or and Lemon Queen (a nearly pure white flower of
large size) being among the more important.

.Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent, had a mixed group of
alpines and shrubs, together with many choice Lilies, a
large bush of Desfontainea spinosa, with bell-shaped
flowers of scarlet and gold, claiming immediate attention.
Veratrum nigrum and Romneya Coulteri were also good
outstanding features.

Messrs. William Pells and Son, Hitchin, had a roekwork
exhibit on tabling, Campanula Stansfleldii and CKnothera
eximea being among the more prominent subjects.

Mr. G. W. Miller, Wisbech, showed a general collection
of cut herbaceous plants, quite a number of seasonable
flowers being included.

Mr. M. Prichard, Christ church, set up a very fine group
of cut herbaceous flowers, with plants of Spirsea palmata
and the fluer Astilbes. Iris Ksempferi. Hemeroeallis
citrina Baronii and Sparaxis pulcherrima were also note-
worthy in the group. Herbaceous Phloxes, too, were
excellently displayed.

Messrs. Stuart Low aud Co., Enfield, staged an excellent
lot of Roses, arranging Rayon d'Or, Lyon, Sunburst, Lady
Pirrie, Mrs. Alfred Tate, Pharisaer and Lady Hillingdon
in huge stands, which were most efliective. A small yet
resplendent group of good things.

Messrs. Carter Page and Co., London Wall, had a most
extensive collection of Violas arranged in pans. Quite
a large representative gathering.

Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, showed Hoses aud
Pelargoniums in great variety.

Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, had a fine lot of pans of
Xertera depressa in fruit, fronting a select lot of hardy
flowers.

Mr. J. Douglas, Great Bookham, had a superb lot of Car-
nations, Bookham White. Firefly (both of which received
awards of merit), Jean Douglas (rich scarlet), Mrs. G. A.
Reynolds (bright orange with buff), Elizabeth Shitfner,
Lirikman (fancy) and Agnes Sorrell (crimson maroon with
flue perfume) being among the best in a particularly choice
and well-grown collection.

Fruit.
Lady Wernher, Luton Hoo. Lutou (gardcuier. Mr. A. W.
.Metcalfe), showed boxes of Strawberries in splendid con-
dition. Givon's Late Prolific and Waterloo were the two
varieties shown.

.Messrs. James Veitch and Sons. Limited, Chelsea,
received a gold medal for a splendid collection of fruit
trees in pots, the collection comprising Apples, Plums,
Peaches and .Nectarines in the flnest condition. Of
Peaches, Pereu'rine, Early Alfred, Dymond, Rivers'
Early York, Crimson Galande and Royal George : of
Nectarines, Goldoni, Pineapple, Early Rivers and Lord
Napier ; and of Plums, Early Transparent Gage, Jeflerson's,
Kirke's. IJenniston's Superb and Brandy Gage were the
best, while of Apples, Lady Sudeley and James Grieve
were L'ood.

OucHins.
Few Orchids were iixliibited, Messrs. Sander aud Sons,
St. Albans, showing a collection of Odontiodas, Vanda
cEerulea (a very excellent variety), Dendrobium Dearei
and others . , ,_ ,

Messrs. Charlesworth and Co.. Hayward s Heath, had
a small but choice lot of Orchids, such good things as
Cycnoclies ohlorochilon, Lselio-Cattleya Ceres, .Anguloii
Cliftonii, Odontoglossnm Othello and O. Jlaudias.

A flue imported plant of Aerides odoratum, bearing six
racemes of flowers, was shown by .Mr. A. W. D. Oakes.
Knoekwood, Shortlands, Kent.

Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enflelil, also contributed
a small group.

SOUTHAMPTON SOCIETY'S SUMMER SHOW.

The summer show, held on July 1.') aud lii, whieli included
the Southern Counties Carnation and Sweet Pea section,
was a very beautiful one, notwithstanding the fact that a
few classes were not very well filled. In many others,
liowever, the competition was keen, good quality being
a feature throughout. Mr. EUwood's (■ollections of
\e"e.tables, Mr. T. Hall's graud Madresfleld Court Grapes,
Jlcssrs. Sutton and Son's superb exhibit of Sweet Peas,
.Mr. Button's Carnations, Messrs. W. H. Rogers and
Son's old-world Rose garden, Messrs. Toogood and
Sou's Sweet Peas and vegetables. Messrs. P.. Ladhams'
alpine garden, and Messrs. Hlllier and Son's herbaceous
flowers, Carnations and Water Lilies were all outstanding
features of the show. Mr. I'liidcre, the courteous secretary.

had a plau of the tents, and all exhibits were neatly staged
under his experienced supervision.

CARNATIONS.

In Class 1, for twclvi^ vases of selfs, fancies and vellow-
ground Pieotees, Mr. H. Matbias, Medstea<l. was flrsl.
=*Aeing Linknian, Leslie, Mrs. R. P-Tcy Smith, Margaret
Thurston, Maud -\llen and a seedling in 2ood eondi'Jon
He secured nearly all the first prizes in Classes 2, 3, 6. 7
8. 9 and 10 respectively for blooms shown in vases and
on boards. Mr. J. J. " Keen and Mr. H. M. Mlford of
Winton, Bournemouth, wi^re also pruinincnt prize-winners
ill these classes. The last named is a new exhiliitor and
an expert grower, and will, no doubt, make his mark in
future in the show tents.

In the classes open to amateurs, Mr. J. .-\. Fort was the
champion prize-winner. In many classes he did not ha\e
much competition, but his blooms were so good that first -
prize cards were awarded.

In Class 30, for five vases of Treeor .VmerieanCaruations.
Mr. Usher, gardener to Sir Randolf Baker. Bart., wa^
first. Scarlet Glow, White W'onder and R. F. Feltoii being
very fine blooms.

In Class 31, Mr. Ellwood. gardener to W. H. Myers,
Esq., was first for three distinct varieties of American
Tree Carnations. Notable premier blooms were Viola in
Class 9, shown by Mr. Keen : Mrs. G. Marshall in Class 8.
and R. Houlgrav'e in Class 6.

Sweet Peas.
In Class 40, for four distinct varieties, Mr. White,
Eastleigh, was first.

Mr. Usher was premier prize-winner in the class for six
bunches in six varieties, the prizes being offered by Messrs.
Sutton and Sons, Reading. Mr. Bealing, Bassett, and
Mr. Clemson, Milford-on-Sea, were second and third
respectively.

In the class for nine distinct varieties (prizes given by
Messrs. Toogood and Sons, Southampton), a second prize
only was awarded, the other exhibits being disqualified, as
they were not staged according to schediUe.

For the best six distinct varieties, Mr. F. Bealing was
first. The same exhibitor was placed first for eight
bunches, the prizes being provided by Messrs. Webb and
Sons. He again was successful in Class 46, for nine
distinct varieties, winning the chief prize oftered by
Mr. Robert Sydenham, Tenby Street, Birmingham.

The Sweet Peas in the competitive classes occupied
tables all round one large tent.

Groups and Pot Plants.
For a group of miscellaneous plants arranged for eftect,
Mr. C. Greenaway. gardener to Mr. C. H. Ashley. Bassett,
was flrst. He made' good use of Francoa ramosa and well-
coloured Crotons. Mr. T. Hall, gardener to Ellen Lady
Swaythling, was a very close second. His plants were
well grown and choice, but rather closely arranged.
Mr. Hall had the best single specimen stove or green-
house flowering plant; — a well grown and flowered
Stephanotis. Mr. Greenaway had the best single speci-
men foliage plant. Mr. C. Hosey staged six giant and
freely-flowered Zonal Pelargoniums, and was easily first.
He had also the premier four Ferns, distinct, and six
Gloxinias respectively ; and Mr. Hall won with a grand
lot of Caladiums, grown as one frequently saw them some
twenty years ago.

Mr. Mattingley, gardener to Admiral Sir J. Hopkins,
won in the class for nine vases of hardy border flowers,
distinct, Mr. W. Palmer, Andover, being a close second.
Table Decorations.
These were very pretty, being low and lightly arranged.
In one class Mrs. B'ealing scored. Carnations or Pieotees
or both were to be used. In another class, Orchids only
being excluded, .Miss Minnie Snellgrove won. Sweet Peas
were used, and the etteet was charming. EperL'iies.
sprays aud other floral arrangements were equally
beautiful.

Fruit and Vkoet.^bles.
.Ml. 'T. Hall won in Class 69 for four dishes of fruit,
staging Madresfleld Court Grapes, Sutton's Scarlet .Alelon.
Lord Napier Nectarines and Dymond Peaches. The
same exhibitor won in the class for two bunclnis of black
Grapes, again staging superb Madresfleld Court. Mr.
Ellwood was second with fine, even clusters of Black
Hamburgh. Mi. Hall was again a winner in the class
for one disli of Peaches. Mr. Usher had the best Melon.
In all the principal classes for collections of vegetables
^[r Ellwood won, staging grand prnduei^ in his well-
known attractive style. The prizes were ottered by
Messrs. Toogood and Sons, .Messrs. James Carter aud
Co., Messrs. Sutton and Sons aud Messrs. Webb and Sons
respectively. Mr. Ellwood also had the best dish of
Tomatoes.

Non-competitive Exhiuits.
OoU Medals.— A large gold med.il to Messrs. Sutton
and Sons foi Sweet Peas ; a gold medal to Messis. W. H.
Rogers and Son, Limited, for an old-world Rose garden ;
and a similar award to Messrs. B. Ladhams, Limited,
for an alpine garden and herbaceous flowers.

Silmr-gilt Medals to Messrs. Toogood and Sons for
Swi'et Peas and vegctabli^s ; Messrs. Hillicr and Sous for
herbaceous flowers, Carnatious and Water Lilies ; Mr.

A. F. Dutton for Tree Carnations;
for Sweet Peas.

Silver Medals to Mr. C. Pay for Cainiitii

B. Wills lor stove aud greenhouse plants.
Awards ni Merit to Messrs. Jarinaii ami Co. fur Rose-

aiid Carnations; and to Mr. F. Onlliek lor a lovely lot
of Violas. . , „

Mr J A. Medlaiid had some charming vases of flowci»
firmly fixed in his patent holders, ,iud also some wire
Stl■awberr.^' protectors.

id i\fr. F. Longstei
aud iMr.

GARDEN.

—^^~

^^^

No. 2176.— Vol. LXXVII.

August 2, 1913.

CONTBNTS.

Notes of the Week
corkesponpence

Zonal Pelargoniums
without pots

Lilium giganteum . .

Four little - known
Roses

Rose Mary Countess
of Ilchester

A huge Rhododen-
dron

The future of the

North of England

Horticultural

Society

Forthcoraing events..

381 t A Water Gakden in
THE Natdrai Style 386

FiowER Garden

382 The Thrift as an

382 edging 387

A little-known

312 Calceolaria..

A beautiful Cinque-

312 toil

ROSE GARDEN

383 Seasonable work
among Roses

A beautiful new Rose
ooo Gardening for Beginners

The propagation of
383 Heaths by cuttings 389

387
388

388
388

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Rock and Water Garden gardening of the Week

Rock garden plants
for late summer
and autumn . . 383

Sterilising seeds with
hydrogen peroxide 383
Trees and Shrubs

Shade and air in the

garden 384

Fruit Garden

The Loganberry as a
commercial fruit 385

For Southern gar-
dens 390

For Northern gai -

dens 390

Daffodil SHOW Notes 391

A Sweet Pea Champion-
ship Trophy . . . . 391

Answers to Corre-
spondents . . . . 392
Societies 392

IliLiDSTRATIONS.

Lilium giganteum at Chirk 382

A weeping Beech at Weybridgc 384

Another form of Weeping Beech 385

The Weeping Scotch Elm 385

A water garden in the natural style . . . . Supplement

. . . . 386

. . . . 387

. . . . 388

A broad edging of Thrift or Sea Pink
A little-known shrubby Calceolaria . .
New seedling Rose Gorgeous

The propagation of HeAths by cuttings 389

The Championship Sweet Pea trophy

391

BDITORIALr NOTICBS.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and tlie Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomrs photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible lor their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
arc enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required jor reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor wilt not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be atle to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. PuMication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tanstock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

Transplanting Bulbs in Grass.— Anyone de-
sirous of transplanting or taking up spring-
flowering bulbs in grass or under trees should not
delay doing so, for although the tops are dormant
and will remain so for a long time, the roots
will soon commence to get active, and are then
best left undisturbed.

Blackberries. — These provide a very useful
crop during the early autumn, and the plants are
greatly benefited by one or two good soakings of
manure-water, especially during the time the
fruits are setting. Green fly is sometimes trouble-
some, more particularly about the time the plants
are in bloom, and if the insects are noticed the
plants should be sprayed at once, or the fruit may
be spoiled.

Llliom Brownii.— This is without doubt one
of the most satisfactory of all garden Lilies.
Recently a beautiful colony of this Lily, growing
among peat-loving shrubs, was to be seen in the
American Garden near the Palm House, Kew.
It has been grown in the same bed for at least
four years, and the fact that it continues to flourish
and flower profusely is proof of its great value
as a garden Lily.

Work Among Border Flowers. — To preserve
the herbaceous border in a nice condition it should
be gone over regularly, cutting down the plants
that have bloomed, and thinning out and staking
those that are coming into blcom, not forge'tinjj,
to give those plants water and nourishment that
most require it. The autumn-blooming plants
are now making rapid growth, and such plants as
Phloxes, Asters, Helianthus and Rudbeckias will
be all the better for a little help in this direction.

The Iceland Poppy. — Few plants are more
valuable for the garden or for use as cut flowers
than the Iceland Poppy, Papaver nudicaule.
The orange, yellow and white flowers blend well
together, and are equally as effective when grouped
in separate colours. Seeds sown now will produce
plants to flower next spring, when they will be
followed by the spring-sown ones. Poppy flowers
will be found to last longer if the stalks are slightly
burned at the tips before they are put into water.
A Useful Late-Flowering Broom.— The Mount
Etna or Sicilian Broom. Genista aetnensis, is a
valuable subject for the pleasure groimds and
shrubbery borders, being one of the last members
of the Broom family to flower. It is a particularly
graceful shrub, 12 feet to 15 feet or more in height.
Old specimens develop quite a thick, woody stem,
with numerous main branches, from which hang
the green, whip-like shoots, very freely dotted
with small, yellow. Pea-like blossoms. Seeds
ripen freely in this country, forming a ready means
of propagation. They may be scattered thinly
where it is desired to grow them. The seedlings

a couple of years in pots till large enough to safely
estahliih in the woodland, pleasure grounds, or
shrubbery borders. Single specimens are efiective,
but the Mount Etna Broom is seen at its best
planted in inform,;! groups of six ti^ a dozen plants.
Rambler Rose Lady Godiva.— Although this

sport from Dorothy Perkins was obtained by
Messrs. Paul and Son five years ago, it is seldom
that one finds it growing in gardens. Why this
is so is difiicult to understand, because it is imlike
any other variety. The flowers are pale salmon
pink, resembling closely in colour that charming
Perpetual-flowering Carnation Mrs. H. Burnett.
It is as vigorous and free-flowering as Dorothy
Perkins, and deserves to be more widely known.
A Useful Dwarf Flowering Shrub.— It is

difficult to understand why that charming little
dwarf shrub Spirsa japonica Anthony Waterer
is not more freely planted. For filling a large
lawn bed or for grouping towards the front of the
shrub border it is excellent, and has the merit of
doing well in rather poor soil. If pruned hard
back each winter or spring, as it should be, it
only grows from 15 inches to 18 inches high, and
in July and early August is covered with its large
heads of deep rose red flowers.

Poplar Leaves Diseased. — At a recent meeting
of the scientific committee of the Royal Horti-
culturil Society, the Ven. Archdeacon Meredith
sent leaves of a Poplar with large golden yellow
areas upon them, occupying in some cases half
the leaf surface, and due to Ascomyces aureus, a
fungus nearly allied to the one producing leal-
curl in Peaches, &c. One or two of the leaves
showed on their upper surfaces the silvery appear-
ance characteristic of the attack of Stereum
purpureura as seen in Plums.

Two Silver - Leaved Shrubs.— The genus
Elffiagnus comprises a number of ornamental
shrubs, two of the best being E. argentea and E.
macrophylla. The former is a native of North
America, and is commonly known under the dainty
name of Silver Berry. E. macrophylla, or Fon
Gumi, native of Japan and Formosa, has beautiful
silver grey foliage, and is one of the best shrubs
for planting in isolated beds on lawns where tall
subjects are not desirable. The bright silver foli-
age of these shrubs stands out in pleasing contrast
to the sombre appearance of coniferous evergreensi

Bed of Pale Lilac Shrubs. — A very charming

bed at Kew just now is situated in front of the
large Temperate House, a beautiful pale lilac effect
being created by the use of Ceanothus Ceres.
The large panicles of cloud-like blossoms are
very freely produced on plants not more than
2 feet high. Judging from their appearance,
these are pruned back almost to the ground-level
each winter or spring, the flowers being produced
on wood made this year. Near by is a bed, not
quite so well filled, of the beautiful azure blue
flowered variety Gloire de Plantieres, which has

can be raised in a frame and the plants grown for I evidently been treated in a similar manner,

382

THE GARDEN.

[August 2, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Zonal Pelargoniums Without Pots. — As I

required a flower-pot many months ago of a par-
ticular size, I could only find one suitable in which
a nice plant was then growing. However, I
turned out the plant and simply placed it in a
saucer, minus the pot. Occasionally water was
poured into the saucer, but very often the ball
of soil was quite dry and no water in the saucer.
Finding, however, that the plant was thriving in
the circumstances, I had it supplied
with water as required, the latter being
poured into the saucer. I am surprised
to see how well this plant has grown
and flowered in the circumstances. It
was, when turned out, well established
in a 6J-inch pot, and the ball of soil
quickly absorbed the water from the
saucer. Young roots stand out like
bristles from the ball of soil. I refer
to this plant as I firmly believe that
we give too much water to Zonal
Pelargoniums generally ; hence so many
yellow leaves. — Shamrock.

Lillum giganteum. — Upon reading
the paragraph re Lilium giganteum in
The Garden of July 19, page 358, it
occurred to me you might like to see
the enclosed photograph, taken ten
days ago, of L. giganteum, which has
flowered here in my garden. The bulb
was planted four years ago in a shady
place ; in fact, surrounded by shrubs,
except to the north, as I find this Lily
does far better in shade than in sim.
There were nine spikes of bloom in all,
bearing seventy-three blossoms between
them. The tallest stem was 9 feet
high with a head of thirteen blossoms ;
the next two, 8 feet 2 inches and

8 feet, with thirteen and eleven trumpets
respectively. Then came one of 6 feet

9 inches, with the other five rather
shorter and more bunched together.
Lord Trevor, who is in the photograph, is
about five feet eleven inches high. I have
several more of these Lilies in the garden
in simny positions. None has more
than one stem, and that not over
5 feet high. — Rosamond Trevor,
Brynkinalt, Chirk.

Four Little-Known Roses. — There
are four Roses not generally found in
English catalogues which, I think, many
would be glad to know. They are AngWe
d'Arnix, a clear, warm pink of most dis-
tinct appearance, large size and upright growth. A
good garden plant, and the bloom always opens
well. Reine M6re d' Italic is certainly among the
deepest of the yellow-hued Roses, and is very
striking. Both the above are recent introductions
of M. Bemaix, by whom they were kindly sent
me. Marquise de Ganay is with me a tremendous
bloomer, the flowers reminding one of Gustav
Grunerwald, only of a better colour, being a pure
light rose shade without any trace of magenta.
What a splendid garden Rose is Leuchtfeuer ! It
is a most brilliant thing and ever-blooming ; in size
and fulness it is equal to many a Hybrid Tea,
especially in the early part of the season. — Ernest
Prvson, Yewtree Cottage, St. Briavels, GlQs.

About Garden Roses. — I was interested m
reading an article headed " About Garden Roses "
in your issue of July 19, page 359, signed by Edward
H. Woodall, wherein was mentioned that the
climbing wichuraiana hybrids Gardenia and Alberic
Barbier were both equally good. I planted both
these Roses only last November in different parts
of my garden. Although only its first season,
Gardenia has borne a profusion of blooms, and
Alberic Barbier has supplied me with cut buds
for the drawing-room and adorned the new arch-
wav up which it is planted in a manner quite
unexpected for so young a plant. Both of these
Roses are very highly to be praised on account

k^- ^

*f*^' ^^

I

LILIUM GIGANTEUM

IN LADY TREVOR S
CHIRK.

GARDEN AT

of their foliage and the entire absence of smother
fly or mildew. But in my opinion Aviateur
Bl^riot surpasses either of these. It is about the
same size, has flowered at the same time,
is a lovely shade of orange yellow, highly
perfumed, a vigorous grower, and has lovely
foliage. — Honor T. Pitts, The Rectory,
Loughborough.

Rose Mary Countess of Ilchester. — I see
that your correspondent Mr. E. H. Woodall,
page 359, July 19 issue, invites accounts of the
behaviour of this Rose in English gardens. Soon
after this variety was issued I put it on both
dwarf and standard stocks. The latter form,
as in the case of most Hybrid Teas with me, seems

to suit it best. Now, while the other Roses are
resting temporarily after their first blooming.
Lady Ilchester is still to the fore, affording me
flowers which, in the bud and half-developed stage,
are very striking ; but the flower opens too
quickly to flat form, although even then the centre
is well filled and the bloom of good lasting
quality. It keeps its colour in sunshine and
stands wet well. So far I have not found this
Rose a very good autumnal variety. It is by
no means the latest bloomer among the
Hybrid Teas here. In growth, on dwarf stocks,
the plants are inclined to be leggy ; in other
respects the growth is good. I find that this
variety likes the knife no better than
does J. B. Clark.— R. C. W. Dixon,
Southamptoti.

Grouping Flowers for Colour.—
Studies and experiments in this delight-
ful aspect of gardening become more
and more interesting and attractive.
There is a fine old border plant, Salvia
Sclaria, that seems to have gone out of
use of late, but that is well worth restor-
ing to favour. It throws up stems 4 feet
high that bear large, loose, thyrse-
shaped masses of bloom, each flowery
top being 2 feet high and 15 inches wide.
The upper lobes of the bloom are of a
tender lilac colour, with a lighter lip and
a warm white hanging pouch. The large
mauve pink bracts combine with this to
form a wonderful harmony of related
colouring when seen close by, and a
cloud of tender tinting when viewed from
a little distance. Grouped with it is
Salvia virgata, whose bloom is a strong
purple that is made all the richer by
the deep red-brown of the calyx. The
two plants, in a group that covers several
square yards, help each other in effect in
a way one would hardly have thought
possible. At the foot are pale pink Snap-
dragons and spreading masses of the
quiet grey of Artemisia stelleriana ;
above, a little distance away, comes an
arch of the pink bloom of Rose Euphro-
syne. — G. Jekvll.

A Late - Flowering Greenhouse
Heath. — Comparatively few of the
greenhouse Heaths flower at this season
of the year, but of the limited number
Erica cerinthoides is one. It is also
one of the brightest-coloured members
of the genus, and belongs to what is
usually termed the hard- wooded Heaths,
in contradistinction to such well-
known kinds as E. hyemalis, E.
gracilis, E. spenceriana and E. wilmore-
ana, which are known as soft-wooded
kinds. The species under notice forms a rather
upright-growing plant, whose flowers, . borne a
dozen or so together in a terminal head, are tubular
in shape, each about an inch long, and of a bright
crimson-scarlet colour. As with many other
members of the genus, the exterior of the blossoms
is clothed with hairs more or less sticky. From
its bright and distinct appearance a group of this
Heath forms a pleasing feature in the greenhouse
during the latter part of the summer, while it also
sometimes extends into early autumn. Another
species somewhat in the same way and flowering
at much the same time is E. verticillata, whose
flowers are in whorls on the upper parts of the
main shoots. — H. P.

August 2, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

383

A Huge Rhododendron. — The enormous Rhodo-
dendron m the gardens of the Marquis of Ailsa at
Culzean Castle, Ayrshire, has often attracted the
notice of visitors, who can hardly, however, realise
its great size. The tree is the ordinary R.
ponticum, is no less than 21 feet high, and is,
according to the measurements taken in 1912,
266 feet in circumference. It is understood to
be one of, if not the largest specimen in the
kingdom, and is in perfect health and showing
no signs of decrepitude. — S. A.

The Future of the North of England Horti-
cultural Society. — Mh>K nu- as ,1 pnv.itf indi-
vidual to intimate to the gardening fraternity
)n general, and Northern horticulturists in par-
ticular, the opportunities that exist at present
for development. The cards have been dealt
and the call for trumps has been given. Has it
been noticed, and will the response be forth-
loming ? There are two grand openings lying
right in front of the North of England Horticultural
Society, and it would appear that too much caution
may prevent an advance through these open doors,
(i) Without going into details, which are being
thoroughly overhauled by legal and other interested
persons, there is undoubtedly a crying need for a
Northern School of Horticulture. The general
idea is a Government Garden Institute, with the
North of England Horticultural Society co-
operating, with the object of training horticulturists
capable of developing the economic resources
of the soil at home or in the Colonies. (2) There
is another clear call — the establishment of a North
of England Horticultural Society's Rock Garden.
Such a Mecca for lovers of rock gardens would
be popular and useful. To me one thing is certain.
When at a general meeting, to be called shortly,
the music is faced, the tune will be played, for it
is preposterous to think that the many enthusiasts
who have sacrificed, gladly and willingly, their
time and money will allow this Northern move-
ment to end in failure. It is not as if cash was
not forthcoming. Ml that is required is a strong
lead and similar enthusiasm such as was displayed
over the new Royal Horticultural Society's Hall
and the Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens.
Notwithstanding deaths and withdrawals, the
North of England Horticultural Society still
increases its membership. A seedling cannot
be forced without harm being done. .AJso all
progress comes through and by suffering. It is
disappointmg, too, to note that three Northern
societies outside Yorkshire have accepted from
the North of England Horticultural Society,
which has tried to be true to name, free judging,
costly medals, or other practical support, and then
given nothing or practically nothing in return. —
J. Bernard Hall, Rawdon, Leeds.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

.August 4. — Flower Shows at Bletchley. Ather-
stone, Epsom, Thornton Heath, Eye, Lichfield,
.\shby-de-la-Zouch, Marlow, Sandway, Stourport
(two days), Mansfield, Datchet and King's Lynn.

August 5. — Flower Shows at Leicester (two
days), Navan and Aberdare. Scottish Horticultural
Association's Meeting.

August 6. — Flower Shows at Cookhill and
Clevedon.

August 7. — Flower Shows at Madresfield and
Kenilworth. Perthshire Sweet Pea Show.

August 8. — Flower Show at Darwen (two days).

August 9. — National Carnation and Picotee
Society's Show (Northern Section). Flower Show
at Winshill.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

ROCK GARDEN PLANTS FOR LATE
SUMMER AND AUTUMN.

IT is a common complaint that the rock garden
is dull and uninteresting in late summer
and autumn, due to the fact that the vast
majority of the plants we call alpines bloom
early in the year. The complaint is doubt-
less well founded ; but now that we have so
many plants available from almost all parts of
the world, it is possible to render the rock garden
bright with at least a certain amount of bloom
almost all the year.

.Apart from the flowers which bloom natiu'ally
at the later season, it is possible by some con-
sideration to plant some of the alpines in such
positions that they will retain their beauty long
after their sisters have ceased to flower. Many
of these plants will bloom as well in shade or semi-
shade as in sun, and, by keeping this in view, a
fortnight or more may often be gained in the
prolongation of the flowering period. Another
point which deserves consideration is that there
are some alpines which, under favourable con-
ditions, will flower for a second time in autumn,
though, it may be, more sparsely than in spring.
To ensure the full beauty of the rock garden in
late autumn, it is highly desirable to include a
number of the autumn-flowering Crocuses and
Colchicums, as these are simply invaluable. In
suitable, sunny, sheltered places the autumn
Crocuses and Meadow Saftrons look delightful.
Crocuses speciosus, its variety Aitchisonii, pul-
chellus, iridiflorus, zonatus, asturicus, Salzmannii,
longiflorus and nudiflorus are all comparatively
cheap, and others will be found from the lists
of the dealers for those who can afford more expen-
sive plants. Of the Meadow Saffrons the best
are the varieties of Colchicum speciosum. including
the grand white one, the double varieties of C.
autumnale, C. Bommuelleri, C. giganteum and
C. variegatum. Then the dainty Cyclamen neapoli-
tanum will give its rose or white flowers in Sep-
tember. Leucojum autumnale, a charming thing,
flowers from July until frost in warm, sandy soil.
The pretty little Oxalis lobata is another late-
blooming plant, which, with Saxifraga Fortune!,
will bloom even as late as October in warm,
sheltered places. .

Of other plants than those of bulbous or semi-
bulbous character we find the Tunicas really indis-
pensable. T. Saxifraga (rose) is best known,
but T. olympica (white) and the double T. Saxifraga
flore pleno are fine. Then Silenc Schafta is
also most valuable, as it will bloom from July
until frost.

A gem of the first water is .'\ndrosacc lanuginosa,
which, with its form oculata, will bloom all the
summer through, and even until sharp frost inter-
venes. But for its foxy smell, Phuopsis or
Crucianella stylosa would be more appreciated,
but it blooms for months at a stretch. Some of
the Helianthemums are grand flowers for our
purpose, and the best are the double varieties
of H. amabile. The red one, often known as Mrs.
Earle, is hardly ever out of flower, and its yellow
sport. Jubilee, and the one called Old Gold are
equally floriferous.

Some consideration in planting in cool places
will prolong the flowering of the dwarf Campanulas
till the end of July in most seasons, and often
later, and the writer will have some of these until
well into August this season. The varieties of
C. carpatica lend themselves well to this. /Ethio-

nemas. beautiful in themselves, give a few valuable
late bloomers, and among them I find grandiflorum,
coridifolium and cordatuni perhaps the best.

Dianthuses, c.p., varieties of plumarius, most
of the Mule Pinks, and a few species, such as
deltoides, neglectus and graniticus, are long
flowcrers. Hypericums give us a goodly variety,
all with yellow flowers. H. reptans, H. Coris,
H. fragile and H. verticillatum are among the
best of the dwarfer species. Though rather tall
and coarse, Alyssum sinuatum, about a foot high,
gives masses of yellow in late summer and autumn,
and is useful for rough rockwork. Jasione perennis,
blue, a foot high ; Globularia nana, also blue, 3 inches
or 4 inches ; Achillea tomentosa, yellow, 6 inches ;
and A. rupestris, a white trailer, may all be named.

Erodiums afford us a useful variety, and any
of these may be chosen with confidence. Gypsophila
prostrata is fine, and Polygonum vaccinifolium
most valuable. Oxalis corniculata gives tiny
golden stars ; Corydalis lutea, though a little
coarse, is good on a rough rockery. Antirrhinum
asarinum will give blooms for some time, and
Heuchcras in suitable positions bloom well.
Arenaria montana in the shadier, moister parts
will afford some bloom ; Geranium lancastriense
and a few others will flower for a long stretch ;
and Origanums hybridum and Tournefortii and
Astrantias minor and gracilis may be used.

The autumnal Heaths and the Menziesias are
indispensable, and a full planting of these should be
made, not forgetting Erica hybrida for still later
bloom. With these and a few of the dwarfest
annuals, such as lonopsidium acaule and Sedum •
caeruleum, the rock garden may be made delightful
in autumn, if not so full of colour as in the earlier
months of the year.

Diimfria. S. .^rnott.

STERILISING SEEDS WITH HYDRO
GEN PEROXIDE.

The current issue of the Kew Bulletin contams
a most interesting article by Miss Ivy Massee on
the sterilisation of seeds with a view to destroying
spores of injurious fungi that might be present.
A great many kinds of seeds have been experimented
with, and we cannot do better than quote Miss
Massee's summary : " The spores of fungi, also
some kinds of bacteria, are as a rule killed by an
hour's immersion in hydrogen peroxide ; no spores
experimented with germinated after similar treat-
ment for two hours. In nearly every instance
the germination of seeds immersed in hydrogen
peroxide was retarded. Seeds immersed for four
hours were on an average one to two days later
in appearing above ground than untreated seeds
of the same kind. Seeds treated for twenty-four
hours were retarded from two to eight days, or
in most instances were killed outright. The period
of retardation is much less in seeds which germinate
quickly than in the case of seeds whose germination
is normally slow. After treated seeds have ger-
minated growth is rapid, and in a short time
the plants are equal in size and vigour to the plants
from untreated seeds sown at the same time.
In some cases the plants from treated seeds are
distinctly larger than those from untreated seeds
at the end of three weeks. For all practical
purposes, soaking seed in hydrogen peroxide for
three hours will kill all superficial fungus spores
and the seed will not be injured. This method
is to be recommended as a substitute for fumigation,
which, as a rule, does not kill fungus spores, unless
continued for such a time as to damage the seed."

384

THE GARDEN.

[August 2, 1913.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

SHADE AND AIR IN THE GARDEN.

The Value of Weeping Trees.

SOME trees stand out prominently in tlie
landscape by reason of their habit of
growth, their distinct foliage and flowers,
or possibly some other peculiarity.
Among these th^ most distinct are.

of the tree. Some weeping trees, when grafted
on a high stock, make fairly regular and symmetrical
growth, e.g., the Elms and the Ash. On the other
hand, some are most erratic in growth ; take,
as an example, the Weeping Mountain Ash, Pyrus
Aucuparia. If this is not carefully staked and
trained, the branches will be sprawling on the
groimd instead of hanging gracefully in streamers
from an upright leader. We find it necessary
to thin out the growths of the Weeping Holly
perhaps, those of weeping or pendulous and the Weeping Thorn fairly liberally about

growth. Very picturesque and charming effects 1 midsummer in alternate years, or a little may

can be made with them in large or small gardens, I be done about this time each year, otherwise

owing to the fact that they form a pleasing change > the growths soon become a tangled and un-

from trees of normal growth. It is when planted ' balanced mass of twigs ind branches.

as lawn specimens, with their grace-
ful pendent branches just reaching

to the grass, that the trees show off

to the greatest advantage. Pen-
dulous trees should stand out as

specimens quite distinct from their

neighbours. It is no use huddling

them away in a shrubbery border

with other trees and shrubs, as

this at once destroys or, at any

rate, partly robs them of their

picturesque character. As a rule,

trees of pendulous growth must

be confined to the pleasure grounds

and the immediate surroundings

of the house. When planted in

the park it is necessary to surround

them with a fence as a protection

against grazing cattle ; this, it

will be readily seen, detracts very

much from their beauty.

Their Value for Shade.— One

of the best and most valuable
uses of a good weeping tree, par-
ticularlj' in a garden of moderate
size, is as an arbour or retreat.
While the pendulous branches
hang down like a curtain and
form an effective screen from the
sun and surroundings to a large
extent, the air beneath one of
these weeping trees is never so
close and oppressive as in the ordi-
nary summer-house. These weeping
trees readily respond to a little
pruning and training with the idea
of forming a shapely arbour.

Propagation is Important.—

One of the most important items
in the cultivation of weeping
trees is their propagation. Graft-
ing on the different types of
the respective trees is the most
satisfactory and only reallyjfeasible
method. Seeds of some can be
obtained, but the majority of the young plants
would revert to the type. Layering and
propagation by cuttings in some cases are possible,
yet they are seldom, if ever, satisfactory, and in
any case would take years to make a tree of any
size. Much the quickest way to obtain specimen
weeping trees is to graft them high up on stocks
of the normal trees, 6 feet to 12 feet or even more
in height.

Early Training.— The training of the leader
of weeping trees in the early years of their growth
is most important, always endeavouring to make
them go upwards till they attain a good height. Too
much stress cannot be laid upon this early training,
for on it depends, to a very great extent, the future

.\ WEEPING BEECH OVERHANGING THE CARRIAGE DRIVE IN
MR. W. A. BILNEY's GARDEN AT , WEYBRIDGE.

The Best Kinds. — The trees of drooping or
pendent habit belong to widely different genera,
and, as is only to be expected, differ considerably
in height, habit, and other characteristics. One of,
if not the tallest weeping tree in this country is at
Elvaston Castle, the seat of the Earl of Harrington.
The tree is 98 feet high, and one of the longest
streamers hangs down to within 20 feet of the
ground. An illustration of this famous tree
appeared in The Garpen for December 23,
1905, page 400. Among specimens covering a
large area of ground, the Weeping Beech is
one of the most noteworthy. Two of the
strongest-growing and most favoured pendulous
trees for large gardens are the Weeping Scotch

Elm, Ulmus montana pendula (illustrated on
next page), and the Pendulous Feathered Elm,
Ulmus glabra pendula. Both form large, trees,
the Weeping Scotch Elm in particular being in
summer a luxurious mass of dark green leaves.
There are several pendulous forms of the common
Beech (illustrated). The best known is Fagus
sylvatica pendula, which is often represented by
large specimens covering a considerable area of
ground. The trees exhibit great variation
in the disposition of the branches. Some are
fairly regular in outline, others throw out a stiff,
vigorous branch on one side of the tree only, or
perhaps at irregular intervals, giving' the tree a
rough, ragged outhne. The leader of a young
Weeping Beech will sometimes
grow out almost or quite at right
angles, and unless noticed in
a young state, cannot be tied up
straight, being too stiff. One of
two alternatives may be taken, e.g.,
take up a fresh lead, cutting off
the end of the old. leader, or
allow the tree to grow in its
own erratic way. Two distinct
forms which originated on the
Continent are bomyensis, which
has an erect stem and pendulous
branches, and remillyensis, a
Weeping Beech with pendent
branches shaped more or less like
an umbrella. There is a very
pretty weeping variety of the
Copper Beech boasting the long
name of Fagus sylvatica purpurea
pendula. There are also several
pendulous forms of the Ash. The
best known is Fraxinus excelsior
pendula var. Wentworthii, which
forms a tall, narrow tree, the
leader being quite upright, with
small branches disposed regularly
round the trunk. F. angustifolia
pendula is an elegant tree of tall,
columnar outline.

Two Weeping Aspens should

find a place in large gardens —
Populus tremula pendula and P.
tremuloides pendula. Two of the
most graceful weeping trees are
Betula alba pendula and Youngii.
The former is tall and slender in
growth, and Youngii broad and
spreading. One of the best-known
weeping trees among the general
public is Salix babylonica, the
Weeping Willow, a tree unequalled
for effective planting by the lake-
side, stream and swamp. The
species in this case is a weeping
tree. The main branches are more or less upright,
with graceful, pendulous, leafy twigs. There are
weeping varieties of the common Crab, the Siberian
Crab and the Mountain Ash. In the Prunus family
there are weeping forms of the Almond and Japanese
.Apricot. The Gean, a lovely tree when covered
with white flowers in spring and suitable for small
gardens, is catalogued as Prunus Avium var. pendula.
The Rose-bud Cherry, Prunus pendula, from Japan,
is a charming weeper, with dainty pink blossoms
borne on slender twigs in April. The best of all
the pendulous Prunuses for large gardens is the
Weeping St. Lucie Cherry, P. Mahaleb var. pendula,
which forms a glorious sight in spring when covered
with blossoms. Another small-growing tree for

Supplement h THE GARDEN, Ai/o/tsf 2iid, 1913.

STEPPING STONES AND POOL IN THE NATURAL GARDEN AT MOUNTON.

Hudson iS I\eiiin^, Ltd., Pi infers, London, S.E.

August z, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

385

ANOTHER

FORM OF WEEPING BEECH THAT MAKES
ON A SUNNY DAY.

A GOOD RETREAT

gardens of moderate size is the Weeping Hawthorn,
a variety of Crataegus Oxyacantha,

Evergreen Kinds. — Among evergreens the most
important tree with pendulous growths is the
Weeping Holly, Ilex Aquifolium var. pendula.
There are also two very useful and attractive
variegated Hollies, argentea pendula, known as
Perry's Weeping, and aurea pendula, Waterer's
Gold Weeping. The conifer family provides us
with a number of exceedingly attractive trees.
A. ievi of the best and most distinct are the Weeping
Lawson's Cypress, Cupressus lawsoniaua, C. pisifera
var. iilifera, C. nootkatensis var. pendula. Thuya
occidentahs pendula, T. pUcata pendula, Tsuga
canadensis var. pendula, and the Weeping Douglas
I-'ir, Pseudotsuga Douglasii. The foregoing may
appear a rather lengthy list, but it by no means
exhausts the number of pendulous trees grown in the
collection of trees and shrubs at Kew. Six of the
best weeping trees for a garden of moderate size
are the pendulous forms of the Green Holly, Perry's
Holly, Hawthorn, common Ash, Young's Birch
and Copper Beech. To these should be added
to cimiplete a list of twelve for extensive pleasure
grounds Scotch or Wych Elm, Beech, Lawson's
Cypress, St. Lucie Cherry, Salix babylonica and
Cupressus pisifera var. filifera. A. O.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

THE LOGANBERRY AS A COM-
MERCIAL FRUIT.

THERE have been many new berry hybrids
of the Bramble type introduced during
the past fifteen years, all claiming
some particular merit over others
already in cultivation. Time and
experience reveal the truth or other-
wise of these claims. Among these are the Mahdi ;
the Hailshamberry, since proved to be an autumn
Raspberry ; the Lowberry, said to be excellent when
grown under glass, but no good when grown out of
doors — this is my experience of it ; the King's Acre

Berry, of which I have had no e.vperience ; and the
Newberry, which promises to be a success. It has
been exhibited at the Royal Horticultural Society's
meetings on several occasions. The branches are
heavily laden with handsome fruit, which appears
to be coreless — a considerable advantage.

Of the Loganberry there is no manner of doubt
about its value and usefulness. It is now well
kno\vn, much appreciated and sought after by the
common people, and is now on sale at every green-
grocer's shop, fetching here about 4d. to 6d. per
pound. The gentleman first to find and practically

to point out the merits of this berry was Mr. Crump
of Madresfield Court, .Among Mr. Crump's varied
activities in the county of Worcester, directing
attention to the value of horticulture and more
particularly fruit-growing for profit, both tor
farmers and cottagers, were, and are, the lectures
he delivers for the Madresfield Agricultural Club.
On one occasion his subject was the Loganberry ;
this is a good many years back. He had thoroughly
tested this fruit, and was absolutely convinced
of its great value, especially its commercial value
for converting into jam and jellies, and therefore
spoke of its merits with force bom of conviction.
In the audience was a gentleman farmer interested
in the matter, and at question-time, to test the
genuineness of Mr. Crump's conviction, asked him
whether he would be prepared to share the loss
with him if he planted an acre and it failed.
Sportsmanhke, Mr. Crump said he would. Result,
three parts of an acre planted ; returns, /8o the
second or third year after planting. The same
gentleman grows tons of the fruit every year now,
and has good reason to be satisfied with the results.
Mr. Crump made a mistake in not stipulating for
half the profits ! This is an American fruit, and
is a cross between a Raspberry and a Blackberry ;
and a very even cross it is, possessing, as the plant
does, the vigorous growth of the Bramble and its
heavy cropping qualities with, partly, the shape,
size and flavour of the Raspberry, with a distinct
briskness added of its own, which, however,
disappears when the fruit is perfectly ripe, followed
by a sweet flavour which I consider refreshing,,
not unlike the flavour of a dead ripe, well-grown
Blackberry.

I have already drawn attention to the com-
mercial value of its fruit. I wish also to as emphati-
cally recommend its growth to the cottager.
There is no other berry plant with which I am
acquainted which will give him a better return
for the little labour required in its growth. It
seems to thrive well in almost any position, and is
not particular as to soil. I have one plant growing
and thriving well near the roots and in the shade

THE WEEPING SCOTCH ELM,

ULMUS MONTANA PENDULA.
DARK GREEN LEAVES.

A HANDSOME TREE WITH

386

THE GARDEN.

[August 2, 1913.

of a Poplar tree, on cold, clay soil ; but, of course,
it would grow and bear fruit much better in the
open quarter.

Culture and Propagation. — Like all the Bramble
tribe, it will grow freely from seed, but being a
hybrid plant, there is danger of its reverting to
one or other of its parents under this mode of
propagation. The best way is to grow it from
layers. This is done by pegging the points of
the long shoots to the ground at the end of July,
burying the part pegged with soil to the depth of
3 inches or 4 inches. Tread the soil firmly down,
leaving 6 inches or 7 inches of the extreme end
of the shoot to grow into a young separate plant
in the autumn after it has rooted and been cut
away. Such rooted layers may
then be planted in their permanent
quarters 9 feet apart. If planted
in rows, the rows should be g feet
apart. The growth of the shoots
in one year is phenomenal, often
attaining a length of from r2 feet
to 16 feet. Whether one trains the
shoots to stakes or to a wire fence,
these should be at least 6 feet high,
and the shoots should be trained
in a horizontal, not vertical, way.
Another method of training to which
the plant lends itself well is to
cover arches, arbours, or screens to
hide ugly corners of the garden in
summer.

Pruning. — it should be pruned
in the same way as the Raspberry,
namely, by cutting away (down to
the ground) all the shoots which
have borne fruit, and that as soon
as the fruit has been gathered. This
will generally be at the end of July.
One's attention must then be
directed to the new canes, the
growth of the current year, as it is
these which will produce the fruit of
the next year. They should be tied
loosely to the stakes or whatever
the old ones have been trained to.
They will then be exposed to and
have the advantage of all sunshine
and air possible until the end of
the autumn, when they can be
secured to the stakes for winter and
next summer. The branches must
not be tied too closely together.
They shoiJd be at least 10 inches
apart. About ten inches of the
tip end of the shoots should be
cut back at the time of tying in
in autumn or winter.

Winter and Summer Treat-
ment.— In summer keep clear of
weeds by hoeing or hand weeding.
Gather the fruit closely every day as it ripens,
or the birds will have it. Feed the trees when in
fruit with manure-water if possible. It will pay
one well to do so. In winter hoe the ground
clear of weeds, and then fork the surface soil
about two inches deep without disturbing the roots.
Give a dressing, 3 inches deep, of good rotten
manure to the surface of the soil over the roots
as far as they extend. This will mean, when the
plants are established, that all of the ground
between the rows of plants will have to be
manured. The best time to plant is early in
November or at any time after until the end of
February. Owen Thomas, V.M.H.

A WATER GARDEN IN THE
NATURAL STYLE.

[See Special Supplement.]

IT is a little difficult foi us now to understand
the fury of the battle between the formalists
and the naturalists in garden matters
which raged only twenty years ago. We
now know that these are not opposing
principles, but that each method should be
used in its own sphere. The lay-out of a garden
is right or wrong according as the limits of these
two spheres have been thoroughly understood.
Each case needs a practised eye to determine those

A BROAD EDGING OF THRIFT OR SEA PINK, A USEFUL PLANT FOR
POOR SANDY SOIL.

limits ; but, roughly speaking, it may be laid down
that, where Nature refuses to use her powers of
attraction, the formalist can have sway, but that
she should rule wherever she has given herself the
trouble to assert herself. This means that where
natural forms are decided, varied and characteristic,
the lay-out should give them full value and con-
sideration, but that where the ground lacks dis-
tinction and feature, architectural and geometrical
treatment may be resorted to. That is why
gardeners of old, who were wedded to formalism
and formalism alone, liked flat ground to work on.
" The most graceful ground is an entire level,"
wrote John Rea in r665 ; " hanging gardens

uncapable to be cast into a Level seldom make
handsome gardens." If this were true, a more
liopeless task than the making of a garden at
Mounton could not have been imagined. Luckily,
I we now not only recognise the great beauty of
such a site, but we have sound views as to how it
should be treated. We are convinced that when
, hill and rock and rushing stream arrest attention
by their prominence, they should be accepted
as the chief lines of a lay-out, that artifice should
follow in their train and not oppose them, that man
I should, in such surroundings, leave the compass
j and the spirit-level and study Nature's own modes
j of expression. That has been the attempt at
Mounton, and the results are to be judged by the
accompanying supplement. The
site was a rocky limestone gorge,
with sheer cliffs alternating with
steep tree-clad hangers. At their
foot a stream wound its way,
sometimes surging round a bluff,
at others running easily in the
midst of a narrow meadow com-
posed of the sandy soil brought
there by the water's action of a
million years. The general scheme
of the grounds comprised a high
and airy tableland, which could
adequately accommodate on its
comparatively flat surface a house
and its terraces. The latter
were to be separated by some
broken rocky ground set with
Heaths and low shrubs from the
wooded slopes and precipitous
sides of the limestone formation,
which offered great scope for
picturesque wild gardens. Path-
ways were engineered along the
sides of these slopes, and they
lead to the level bed of the
stream and to what was a little
meadow that lay between it and
the iane. There was no hurry
whatever to realise all this
scheme. It was begun ten years
ago, and the house and much of
the formal lay-out on the upper
flat still remain unaccomplished.
The owner lives in the next
parish, and this is the work of
his leisure moments and for the
employment of available labour
in the winter months. The pre-
sent purpose is not to describe
the whole grounds, but only the
water garden, made out of the
stream itself, with the meadow on
one side of it and the edge of
the slope on the other. It was at
first proposed to use the original
stream-bed and its banks for gardening purposes ;
but when, after some very heavy rains, much of the
new planted stuff was swept away down stream to
Severn Sea, and when at the close of a dry summer
that which had not been swept away in the winter
suffered severely from drought, owing to the stream
becoming a mere rill, it was realised that serious
alteration of the stream was necessary and that
an artificial stream-bed where the water would
be under command was essential.

It is not easy to get the ordinary gardener or
labourer to imderstand natural forms. He can
dig you a ditdi or a canal, or even serpentine you
a walk. But they will be set out with great

August 2. 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

387

precision by means of pegs and a garden line. The
making of the new stream-bed, therefore, needed
close supervision and even the direct labour of
the designer. Just before the original stream-bed
took a decided turn from east to south he ordered
a trench to be dug about twelve feet wide and five
feet deep. This lay in the meadow, started within
a few feet of the stream bank, and rejoined the
orieinal stream some eighty yards lower down.
The top soil was wheeled well away, in order that
it might not be buried, but be replaced as the top
soil in the new arrangement. The under soil
was tossed on either bank as unevenly as possible.
.^11 this preliminary work could be carried out by

has taken up half the width of what was meadow,
but the other half is used as lawn. Next to the
road there are a wall, a shrubbery border and a
path. The open shed that served for the animals
that pastured in the meadow is used as a tool-
house, but its eaves are brought forward so as
to afford a sheltered and covered seat, from which
the water garden and the great cliff can be enjoyed
by the eye. The \avm itself is no longer level like
the meadow was, but presents the appearance of

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

THE THRIFT AS AN EDGING.

JOO often in these days of new plants
the merits of many old ones are
overlooked, to the detriment of our
gardens. One such plant is the
common Thrift or Sea Pink, Armeria

1 nc

T

vulgaris, than which none is better
an unused stream-bed grassed over. The effect i for forming a neat and attractive edgmg to
is very satisfactory, but the plan was adopted for I a pathway, particularly where the soil is sandy

purely practical reasons. The occasional torrential
rains of this Welsh borderland bring do\vn such

the labourers alone, but that done, the constant | masses of water that injurious floods occur. Their
attention of the designer was essential. Uneven destructive action can only be obviated by getting

rid of the water as quickly as possible. The sharp
bend of the old stream tends to hold it back,
and so a flood-gate is introduced at the head of

and thus unsuitable for many kinds of plant-
life. The Thrift is a good-natured subject,
and once planted will take care of itself, except
that it may occasionally be necessary to curtail
it somewhat when it encroaches too far on other
domains. The illustration on page 386 depicts
a broad edging of one of the varieties of the common

the lawn, and when much pressure of water threatens Thrift, and shows how effective it is when in

side bays were dug out on each side of the trench,
while portions of the heaped soil were raked back
into it. The accidental unevennesses produced by
this process were used as a basis for establisliing
curves, levels and contours as
closely as possible resembling those
of Nature. At the bottom of the
trench a small waterway was en-
gineered, its windings being made
reasonable by the introduction of
realistic bluffs, and the differing
widths being made convincing by
the placing of barrier rocks. The
same system makes all the zigzags
and ups and downs of the pathways
reasonable, the paths themselves
being mostly laid with rough lime-
stone paving procured from a
stratum in a neighbouring quarry,
which works out into slabs 2 inches
or 3 inches thick and with fairly
flat surfaces. The water was let
in from the natural to the artificial
stream-bed through a pipe in the
bank, which can be closed, half
opened or fully opened at will.
The water is made to look, at its
entry, as if it bubbled up amid
great stones from a spring. It
then dances rapidly doivn over
stones and round corners until it
reaches a wider and more level
portion of the bed, where it
lies placidly, and is crossed by the
stepping-stones that form the fore-
ground of the supplement. There
are considerable areas of much-
broken and often rocky ground
encompassing both stream-beds, all
of which is planted. Away from
streams or paths flowering shrubs
of some size are set. LUacs, Japanese Guelder it is opened, and a great part of tlie water pours flower. The blossoms last in

A LITTLE-KNOWN SHRUBBY CALCEOL.^RLA, C. INTEGRIFOLIA, IN A SOUTHjTdEVON GARDEN.

THE PLANTS ARE OVER FOUR FEET HIGH.

Roses, Judas - trees, Weigelas, Deutzias and
Piiiladelphuses represent the deciduous section,
wliile for evergreens we find Choisyas and
Savins. Tall perennials group with these or
stretch out beyond them, such as Rudbeckia
laciniata. Anemone japonica and Pl^loxes. Lower
growths at first intermingle and then dominate as
the path is approached. Lavender bushes, pros-
trate Junipers and Cotoneaster horizontalis are
associated with Harebells, Foam-flower, dwarf
Irises, Stonecrops and their like. The stream
edge is set with water-loving plants. The great
leaves of Saxifraga peltata and Rodgersia podo-
phylla give horizontal lines, while New Zealand
Flax and Siberian Irises soar aloft.

The whole race of Astilbes flourishes amazingly
and reproduces itself by seed. This planted ground

down the centre of the lawn, obviating all danger
to the garden and to the low-lying gardener's
cottage.

Despite its vagaries of wat'ir-Ievel, a good deal
of gardening, prudently ordained, takes place
on the banks of the old stream. More delicate
planting of water subjects takes place along
the sides of the artificial stream. Here one
of the greatest successes is Primula rosea.
This Himalayan variety, while by no means
so particular and miffy as others of the
family, is not everywhere at home. Here it
not only grows luxuriantly, but sows itself
freely, and considerable stretches of damp
ground on either side of the stepping-stones are
studded by myTiads of bright pink blooms in
March. H. .Avray Tipping.

good condition

for at least six weeks, but even when they are
absent the neat carpet of green foliage makes a
useful and not unattractive edging. C.

A LITTLE-KNOWN CALCEOLARIA.

Calceolaria integrifolia is apparently a rare
plant, as when I sent flowers to Kew for naming
I was told that they did not possess it, so I sent
them some cuttings. It is extremely common
in the gardens near the mouth of the River Dart,
where it attains large proportions, and is one of the
finest of summer-flowering shrubs. It is termed
" shrub " because it is of woody growth, and a
specimen here a few years ago was 6 feet in height
and 7 feet in diameter. This would have consider-
ably increased in size if it had not been cut back.

388

THE GARDEN.

[August 2, 1913,

This Calceolaria has been growing at Kingswear
for over forty years, but it is impossible to discover
the source from which the plants originated. It
has now spread from Kingswear over the greater
part of the south-west of England, and has appa-
rently been grown merely as a showy subject ot
easy culture, rather hardier than the majority of
shrubby Veronicas so much in evidence along the
south-western coast-line. It is at its best in July,
when it is a perfect sheet of gold, and it carries a
fair amount of blossoms until well on into October.
It is to be found in cottage and farmhouse gardens
as well as in the ground surrounding the larger
residences, and is invaluable for its masses of
glowing colour. Some writers on the Calceolaria
have stated that this species is useless for outdoor
culture in England ; but at Kingswear it is never
harmed by the frost, which is
rarely severe in that locality, as
it is entirely sheltered from the
north and east, while the steep
slope immediately overlooks the
salt water. Old bushes, how-
ever, have a way of becoming
bare in their lower branches,
when they are usually destroyed
and their places filled with younger
plants. In the severe weather
of February, 1912, some plants
on the borders of Dartmoor ex-
perienced 27° of frost, but though
every leaf was browned, the
shoots broke well again in the
spring and now are fine plants,
so that it is evidently far hardier
than has been imagined.

The plants in the border shown
in the illustration on page 387
average over four feet in height,
and, as will be seen, are well
clothed with foliage to the ground-
level. As these occupy a sheltered
site, they will in all probability
retain their lower leaves for a
longer time than e.\amples stand-
ing in a more exposed position.
This Calceolaria has the advan-
tage of being quite indifferent
to soil. In rich and deep ground
it forms exceptionally strong
growth and flowers profusely ;
while in poor, stony and shallow
soil, though making but little
growth, it blossoms with equal
freedom. At Kingswear a line of
plants is growing in very shallow,
stony soil imnrediately at the
top of a dry wall, over whicli
Mesembryanthemums hang in
sheets, and backed at a distance
of 18 inches by an old hedge of Laurustinus.
This site, facing due south and entirely un-
shaded, is dust dry during the summer heat,
owing to the combined action of the burning
sun and the roots of the Laurustinus, but the
plants, though making but little growth, never fail
to bloom abundantly- Wvndham Fitzherbert.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

N

SEASONABLE WORK AMONG
ROSES.

OW that our first show of Roses is
past, it is well to do all we possibly
can to help in the future displays ;
and much can be accomplished by
cutting away any crowding and
superfluous wood. The large trusses
of spent blooms might often be cut ofl a little lower
than is generally practised. In fact, the removal
of stale flowers might be done rigorously enough
to form a sort of summer pruning. We notice
that our chief growths push from the terminal
eyes of the shoots, and this often leaves several

A BEAUTIFUL CINQUEFOIL.

A CHARMING plant flowering just now is Potentilla
nepalensis, known in a good many gardens as P.
willniottiana. It somewhat resembles a Geum in
habit, the prostrate, spreading branches being
freely bedecked with flowers of good size. It is a
useful jilant fur either the border or the roi k garden.

NEW SEEDLING KObE GORGEOUS, AWARDED A GOLD MEDAL AT THE

NATIONAL ROSE, SOCIETY'S PROVINCIAL SHOW. THE COLOUR

IS SOFT PINK, SUFFUSED ORANGE.

dormant ones at and near their base. By more
judicious cutting back we secure a lower and more
bushy break of young growth, thus doing away
with the chief cause of leggy and gaunt specimens.
At the same time we should carefully avoid any
tendency to crowding the centres of our plants.
Much of this summer pruning might perhaps be
I more correctly described as thinning, for our
main object is to stop badly-placed growth and
overcrowding.

After flowering so unexpectedly well as our
Roses have done this season, they will, naturally,
need some support in the way of mulchings, if not
already supplied in sufficient quantity. Now is
the best time for sprinkling artificial manures over

the surface soil, and if it can be done previous to
a shower, so much the better. A great deal of the
feeding properties of our artificials is lost by air
evaporation, and I strongly advise the hoe
being used directly after sowing. This mixes
the soil and manure, covering the bulk of the
latter and so conserving its food, which will be
assimilated all the sooner by rain or a free use
of the water-can. If one intends to water, the
majority of manures might well be used in the
liquid, and will not only be quicker in their effects,
but a considerable amount of waste will be avoided.
1 am a great believer in the hoe upon all suitable
occasions, whether weeds are present or not ;
also in drawing some of the soil well up to all
dwarfs. You cannot do wrong by a persistent
use of the syringe still, for it is more often than
not the worst time for mildew
when our second and third crops
of young growths appear, and
by consistent washing we prevent
any serious settlement of this
disease.

A great deal can be done in
the way of summer propagation
independent of the usual bud-
ding. Three parts ripened wood
can be rooted freely upon a
partially-shaded border of sandy
loam. Younger lateral wood will
be useful if rooted in boxes of
sandy loam and leaf-soil, or in
pots of similar compost, and
kept quite close for a few weeks.
But there are always interesting
series of seasonable articles on
propagating that by their clear
illustrations go further in helping
amateur readers than any mere
words of my own can do. One
point I have not yet noticed,
however, is the easier propaga-
tion of our Moss, Damask and
Cabbage Roses. These do not
produce any great number of
sucker - like roots suitable for
parting from the parent plant,
and may be made more plentiful
if a few good shoots are layered
into prepared soil around their
base. A slight cut of the ordi-
nary description when layering
will help very much, and if left
over until a second winter they
will lift with really good balls
of root. This is a better plan
than attempting to root cuttings,
and I advise it now, even if one's
young plants are not to be removed.
It helps in getting more vigorous
liushes, and we may take it as Nature's own
lesson that all subjects having a tendency to run
suckers out for fresh soil do better if encouraged
or transplanted frequently. A. P.

I

A BEAUTIFUL NEW ROSE.

Among the many new seedling Roses that were
shown at the National Rose Society's Provincial
Show at Gloucester was one named Gorgeous,
shown by Mr. Hugh Dickson of Belfast, and for
which he received a gold medal. As will be seen
from the accompanying illustration, this is a bold,
full flower, and the colour is soft pink, suffused
orange. It should prove a good Rose for both
garden and exhibition purposes.

August 2. iqi3.]

THE GARDEN.

389

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

THE PROPAGATION OF HEATHS BY CUTTINGS.

THE Heath nr Erica family is a fairly large
Diie, and consists of both hardy and
greenhouse plants. They differ widely in
their habit of growth, ranging in height from about
nnie inrhcs to six feet or more. The various species

"""is:

the side shoots growing on the strong, vigorous
young growths will be found to ;mswer this descrip-
tion, and in August will be partially ripened.
Thin, weak cuttings, though they will root, seldom
grow away kindly and make good, sturdy plants,
while many of the thicker, sappy growths would
damp if inserted as cuttings. An inch to i J inches,
not longer, is a good average length for a Heath
cutting. Many of the side shoots will be found
about this length, and if removed carefully with
a slight downward pull will come away Irom the
main stem readily and have a nice heel at the
base. Failing this, the shoots must be cut off just
below the leaves at a joint. The bottom leaves
must be carefully removed. A small, thin-painted
pair of scissors are useful for this purpose.

Planting the Cuttings. — The cuttings may be
inserted moderately close together. A 5-inch pot
(48 size), as shown in Fig. i, will accommodate from
thirty to three dozen cuttings. Place a layer of

I. — HEATH CUTTINGS PLANTED IN A POT
FILLED WITH FINE PEAT AND SAND.

and varieties blossom at dififerent seasons, no
period of the year being without its flowering Heath.
Many amateurs are under the impression that
cuttings of both greenhouse and hardy Heaths
are difficult to root. This, however, is quite a
mistake ; the cuttings root very easily, provided
one or two very simple rules are followed. No
season of the whole year is better than August
and early September to insert the cuttings. At
this time there are plenty of half-ripened young
shoots on the plants, which make excellent cuttings.

Preparing the Pots. — As comparatively little
depth of soil is necessary for Erica cuttings, the
pots should be filled at least half full of broken
crocks or other suitable material at hand for
drainage. Over this place a layer of rough peat
or moss to prevent the fine soil trickling down
between the crocks and preventing the free passage
of water. A suitable compost in which to root
the cuttings consists of two-thirds peat, passed
through a quarter-inch mesh sieve, and one-third
sand. Fill up the remaining space in the pots
with this material, press firmly, and leave the
surface of the soil a quarter of an inch below the
top of the pot to permit of a little fine sand being
sprinkled over the surface and to allow space for
watering. Water each pot well as soon as filled and
leave it long enough to drain thoroughly previous to
inserting the cuttings. The most serviceable sized
pots to use are those known as 5-inch or 48 size.
These are convenient to handle, and are just wide
enough to take a 4-inch bell-glass, as shown in Fig. 2.

Taking the Cuttings. — The largest percentage
of successes may be expected when cuttings of
medium growth are inserted. In most instances

with a rose on the watering-pot, and remove any
damp or yellow leaves if present. The young
cuttings will root in from two to three months,
when it will be necessary to gradually admit air,
this being done, to start with, by tilting the bell-
glasses before removing them entirely. When
growing freely the tips of the shoots should be
removed, to induce the plants to make several
shoots each and form nice little bushy plants by
ne.vt May, as shown in Fig. 3. These young plants,
if of a greenhouse variety, should be potted off singly
in small pots, or, if belonging to the hardy section,
planted out 4 inches apart on a prepared border
outside, from where,' in the following autumn, they
can be transferred to the positions for flowering.

Hardy Heaths. — By growing a selection of a
dozi-n hiirdy Heaths, flowers may be looked for
throughout the year. In November, December
and January E. hybrida is the most noteworthy.
It is a dwarf spreading plant with pinkish red
flowers. Following this closely we have E.
lusitanica (codonodes), a tall-growing white Heath
4 feet to fi feet or more in height ; and the dwarf-
growing E. camea, reddish purple, and the white
variety alba, all of which make a beautiful display
for the first three months of the year. April and
May sees the Mediterranean Heath, with reddish
pink flowers, bushes 4 feet to 5 feet in height,
covered with flowers, and the smaller dwarf variety
alba. Then in summer and autumn we have
E. ciliaris, E. cinerea and E. Tetralix, three dwarf-
growing Heaths with pinkish red blossoms, the
last two with white varieties. In autumn we have
the Cornish Heath, E. vagans and the white
variety, flowering freely. Propagated in a similar
way and requiring identical treatment are the
numerous beautiful varieties of the Ling or Calluna
vulgaris, and the Irish Heath, Daboecia polifolia,
both of which flower from July to October. A. O.

2. — COVERED WITH A BELL-GLASS TO
ASSIST ROOTING.

fine sand over the surface of the pot, take a small
pointed stick (dibber) in the right hand and a cutting
in the left. Make a hole with the dibber, and
as it is drawn out insert the cutting, and allow the
sand to trickle in and fill up the hole. Press the
cutting in firmly with the other (thick) end of
the dibber. Water the cuttings with a fine rose
on the spout of the watering-can, and allow the
pot to drain for a few minutes before placing on
the bell-glass, as shown in Fig. 2. Should a
propagating-frame with just a little bottom-heat be
available, the pots may be plunged in this. Failing
this, place the pots under a hand-light in the shadiest
part of the greenhouse or in a cold frame. Wherever
they are placed, shade the cuttings from sunlight.
After-Treatment.— Every morning the bell-
glasses should be removed and any moisture
collected on the inside wiped ofi with a chamois
leather or cloth. Water the'cuttings when dry

3. THE YOUNG PL.^NTS READY FOR

POTTING OFF.

390

THE GARDEN.

[August 2, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Double Arabis.-^To ensure a good, even growth
and plenty of bloom, propagation should be
attended to now. Where the soU is of a light
nature, cuttings put in now and kept sprayed
will make quite nice plants by October or November,
ready for removing to the beds ; but where the
natural soil of the garden is heavy, it is just as
well to put three or four cuttings in a 3-inch
pot, and these, if placed in a frame and kept shaded
and sprayed, will soon pick up and make roots,
when the lights may he removed and the plants
treated quite hardily. Though a little more trouble,
the results are infinitely better.

Violas sown in June should now be ready for
transferring from the seed-boxes or beds to any
vacant plot in the kitchen garden that may be
suitable. iVIake the soil fine, and after trans-
planting keep them well supplied with water for a
few days to ensure the plants growing away nicely.

Named Violas, owing to the drought, have in
many instances gone out of bloom somewhat
early. If the plants are cleaned over and partially
cut back, it should ensure getting a crop of good,
sturdy cuttings for propagating in September or
early October.

Biennials and Perennials sown in June will

in most instances lie ready for transplanting
into nursery beds. As in the case of the Violas,
it is essential to make the soil very fine. This
ensures plenty of fine roots, so that the young
plants lift well, either in the autumn or spring,
whenever they are planted in the quarters in
which they are to bloom.

Early-Flowering Chrysanthemums in beds or
borders should now be liberally supplied with
manure-water, though if dry it is best applied
after a preliminary watering with clear water. This
should be given every few days, and the additional
outlay in labour will be well repaid by the extra
size and colour in the blooms.

Plants Under Glass.

Amaryllises that were flowered early will now
be losing their foMage. Water should be gradually
withheld, and the plants given full exposure to sun
and air for a time before storing them away. Later
batches that have not matured so much should
be kept watered till all the foliage commences to
turn yellow, when they should receive the treat-
ment recommended above. Seedling plants must
be kept growing until they attain flowering size,
and those that are not already in pots large enough
to carry them through the winter should have a
shift at once, so that they may get a good hold of
the soil before the short days. Keep a fair amount
of heat and moisture in the pit or house in which
they are being grown, but sufficient air must be
given to ensure the foliage keeping strong and
hard.

Hydrangeas. — The present is a good time for
propagating the different varieties of Hydrangea
Hortensia. They will root quite readily in a cold
frame. Up till last season I always rooted
them singly in 3-inch pots, but I then found they
rooted much quicker and made stronger plants
if pricked into a bed of sand and leaf-soil, whence
they were potted straight into their flowering pots
(4j-inch).

The Kitchen Garden.

Leeks for late use may still be planted, selecting
a piece of ground that is not likely to be wanted
till quite late in the spring. As the plants may
be a good size when planting out, they should
be well watered for a time to prevent undue flagging.
Early-planted Leeks must also be kept well watered
if good specimens are desired, those for exhibition
having a little more soil brought up to them about
every fourteen days. Keep the paper collars,
if used, just above the soil.

Runner Beans. — To keep up the supply this
crop must not be stinted for water or manure,
and when liquid manure is not available, a sprink-
ling of artificial once a week will do almost as
well.

Cauliflower is another vegetable which will
not thrive except under moist conditions, and
as Peas become scarcer, this vegetable will be more
in demand, so that the plants should be watered

at least twice a week during really dry and hot
weather.

Tomatoes are doing pretty well this season,
and where the plants were got out early, good
crops are the result. Give water when necessary,
and thin the foliage somewhat for the fruits to
secure a full measure of sun. To get real deep-
coloured fruits, gather early, just as they are
turning from yeilow to red, and store in light
and air-tight boxes, when the colour will be equal
to the very best fruits from under glass.

Fruits Under Glass.

Plums that are nearing the ripening stage
must not be subjected to too much water over-
head or at the root, or cracking may result,
especially in the Gage varieties. A moderately
dry and buoyant atmosphere, with just a suspicion
of heat in the pipes on cold, damp nights, is the
best for these fruits, and under such conditions
they will keep for quite a long time.

Pears also require much the same treatment.
The early varieties, such as Clapp's Favourite,
Williams' Bon Chretien and Marguerite Marillat,
are fast ripening, and if not already placed by
themselves away from the later ones, they should
be shifted at once, as these latter will still take a
fair amount of syringing and feeding.

Apples. — The early varieties also will be
ripening, and such varieties as Lady Sudeley
must not be kept about too long, or they are very
apt to go so't and insipid to the taste, though they
might look well. Later varieties that are
swelling may receive a fair amount of syringing.
This is essential, as colouring in Apples is, 1 think,
much influenced by the amount of moisture in
the atmosphere.

Hardy Fruit.

Raspberries. — The fruit being gathered, all old
canes should be cut out at once, thinning the young
ones also so that they receive a maximum amount
of light and air. Should the canes not have made
much growth, a good soaking of liquid manure
will help them materially. Autumn-fruiting varie-
ties may also be the better for a good feed, and if
not already covered with fish-netting, it should
be put on before any of the fruits ripen, or they
will quickly be depleted by the birds.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta. Efq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.
Layering Carnations. — This work must now
be completed without delay. Acting upon a hint
thrown out in The Garden a few years ago, I
have proved that it is unnecessary to form a tongue
in the layer, as is usually done. If an incision
is made with a thin, sharp knife at the base
of the joint and carried up through and out
again just above the joint, other matters being
properly attended to, 95 per cent, of the layers
will root as well as by the older and more tedious
method. Give the layers a watering when the
operation is finished, and see that they are not
allowed to become quite dry till roots are emitted.

Preparing Daffodil Quarters.— The Daffodil
takes a very short period of rest, and where fresh
plantations are to be made, the bulbs should be
bought as soon as procurable. Meanwhile, the
ground should be got ready.

Staking Gladioli. — These showy flowers will
soon be throwing up their flower-spikes, and will
require support. In the case of the commoner
varieties, such as brenchleyensis, Hollandia and
Childsii, planted in lines, all that is needed is
to drive in a few stout stakes, run a line of
twine along, and then tie the individual flower-
stems to the stretched line of twine. Fine named
sorts, planted irregularly, should each have a
Bamboo stake, care being taken not to pierce
the bulb when inserting the stake in the soil.

The Rock Garden.

The Arenarias. — Although belonging to the
" humbler creation " in the rock garden, the
Arenarias should not be looked upon as a negligible
quantity, for they have a beauty all their own.
Especially is this the case with A. balearica when |

seen clothing the surface of a damp stone. A.
cjespitosa, A. montana and A. tetraquetra are
all gems in their way, and should be included
even in small collections.

The Shrubbery.

Summer Pruning.— By this date it will be found
that Laurels and other strong-growing shrubs
have developed a few over-vigorous shoots, to
the detriment of the surrounding occupants.
These should be cut away at once.

Preparations for Transplanting.— Where it is

intended to transplant Hollies or other evergreens
in the autumn, it will be well to run a sharp
spade round the plants, so as to sever the roots
at a distance of about two feet from the stem,
giving the plants a good watering afterwards it
the weather happens to be dry. By doing this
now, the plants will receive less 'check when
transplanted.

Plants Under Glass.

Training Climbers.— if this work is not regularly
attended to, the young growth becomes entangled
and the work is rendered doubly difficult. Thin
out superfluous shoots, as it is only on well-ripened
shoots that a full crop of flowers can be expected.

Crassula COCCinea. — We grow quite a large
batch of this old-fashioned succulent, and the
bright, long-lasting trusses of waxv flowers are
much admired. This is a good time' to propagate
plants. One cutting can be inserted in a 2j-inch
pot, or three in a 4-inch pot. Use a compost of
fibrous loam, sand and finely-pounded potsherds.
Stand the pots in an airy frame and keep them
rather dry after the first watering.

Sowing Mignonette. — A sowing of Mignonette
should now be made for spring flowering. If
wanted in 5-inch pots, Machet is the best variety,
and it should be sown in the pots in which it is to
flower. Soimd loam, with about a third part
of well-rotted cow-manure and some sand and old
mortar, forms an excellent compost. Ram the soil
fairly firm, scatter a few seeds equally over the
surface, and cover lightly with some fine soil.
Water prior to sowing, of course. Stand the pots
on ashes in a shallow frame and cover with a sheet
of newspaper till germination takes place. For
large specimens the same size of pot may be used
in the meantime, and some of the giant-flowered
varieties should be sown for this purpose.

Fruits Under Glass.
Repotting Strawberries. — Plants must now

be shifted into their fruiting pots, which should be
6 inches in diameter. See that they are clean,
dry and efficiently drained, with a sprinkling of
soot over the drainage. If the loam is rather
heavy, about a third part of horse-manure should
be used with some wood-ashes. If the loam is
inclined to be light, well-decayed cow-manure
should be used. Pot firmly, and stand on a bed of
coal-ashes of at least 6 inches in depth to ensure
perfect drainage.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Preparing Strawberry Quarters.— If they are

expected to yield a full crop next season. Straw-
berries should be planted not later than the middle
of this month. The ground should be deeply
trenched ; but, generally speaking, bastard trench-
ing is to be preferred. Unless the groimd is very
rich, a layer of manure should be placed below
each of the two spits. The distance at which the
plants should be planted depends upon the vigour
of the variety, but from 2 feet to 2^ feet between
the rows and about fifteen inches between the
plants in the rows will be found suitable.

The Vegetable Garden.

Winter Onions. — These should be sown by the
middle of the month, and the ground should
now be prepared for their reception. Onions
require good cultivation. Trench the ground
and work in a good quantity of organic manure.
Nitrogenous matter can be given in the spring.
For summer use White Lisbon is excellent, and for
a keeping variety for autumn sowing Trebons is
hard to beat. Sow in drills about a foot apart.

Lettuce. — A sowing should be made now for
spring use. For a Cos, Bath is good, and for a
Cabbage variety Sutton's Standwell can be highly
recommended.

Celery will be benefited by a sprinkling of soot
on a dewy morning. Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian,

August 2, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

391

DAFFODIL SHOW NOTES.

A Beginning. — I know several people, among
ollu-rs a clergyman, a country squire, a doctor
and a clergyman's son, who are sitting on a gate
wondering if they will come down on the show
side or not. There must be others there, too,
whom I do not know. Let me assure them that
they need not hesitate. Growing for show is a
most pleasant occupation and Daffodil folk are
pleasant people. If there is no local show near
at hand, there are the two large ones at London and
Birmingham, where every inducement is held out
to the novice to make a start by the provision
of classes where he will meet only exhibitors of
the same standing as himself. The beginners'
section has been a huge success at the •' Midland."
1 would advise, if it is not too late, local show
committees to get a copy of that schedule and
frame theirs on similar lines. In my opinion,
nearly all Daffodil societies might do a good deal
more than they do in tempering the wind to the
hesitating lamb, even if, money being none too
plentiful, there has to be a curtailment of either
prizes or classes in the open section. I should
imagine everyone who is seriously thinking of
joining the jolly band of exhibitors has already a
collection of some sort, and that he or she — for I
am always glad to think that the " shes " take
the part they do in the local exhibitions — has a
more or less embryonic knowledge of suitable
varieties. They want to extend both. I venture
to suggest that they should at once order from
the Royal Horticultural Society, Vincent Square,
Westminster, the new Daffodil Year Book at the
cost of IS. 6d. In it will be found a detailed list
of all the winning flowers shown this spring at
both London and Birmingham. A careful study
of these two, side by side with a few trade cata-
logues of the present year, will be of the greatest
help in making a selection of the varieties that
are the best to buy, cither as a beginning or as
an addition.

Points to be Remembered. — First, early plant-
ing is vital for the production of prize blooms.
I like making experiments, and this autumn I
am going to plant a row of the same variety every
week from now until the end of November and
watch the result. I know, of course, that August-
planted bulbs will give far better flowers than
late November ones, but I am not sure of the date
when palpable retrogression begins. Without this
practical test I would fix the date about Sep-
tember 21, and say every show bulb must be in
the ground by then at the very latest, and that
from now onwards the earlier the better. Secondly,
good cultivation tells most decidedly. I speak
from my own personal experience, for I know the
difference it has made to me in exhibiting at
Birmingham. My recent successes there have
been largely due to this. Of all the letters that
I have from time to time received on matters
pertaining to the show stage, none has given me
more satisfaction than one I received about three
years since from Mr. E. M. Crosfield congratulating
me not on my success, but on my good and improved
cultivation. The two words, from an exhibition
point of view, are practically synonymous. Those
who think they can attain the first without the
second are Daffodil — not Middleton — moonlighters,
expecting what they will never get. There was a
good concrete example of this at Birmingham
this spring. White Knight, which I consider the
acme of refinement, even throwing in Mrs. Ernst
H. Krelage and White Emperor, was staged more

than once in the single bloom class. The best —
the one that had had the best cultivation — won. The
other was not among the first five. What made
so much difference ? Someone may ask what
do I mean by cultivation. Shortly, this: (i)
Preparation of the soil by double digging, adding
in the process some bone-meal. (2) Covering the
beds with a light covering, such as fine leaf-mould
or peat moss in case of very severe weather, unless
the soil is very cold and damp naturally, when
I would use some light covering, such as Heather.
(3) Systematic hoeing or stirring the soil between
the rows every two weeks from the time the leaves
are an inch high until the blooms are nearly ready
to expand, and then two or three times before the
bulbs are lifted. {4) Being " easy " about dividing
up. Over-division is a huge mistake ; it weakens
the plants so much. (5) Early planting.

Some Varieties Suggested. — I am going to
confine myself to some of the moderate-priced ones
that I do not think are so well known as they might
be. I have put to each the approximate price.

Trumpets. — Cornelia (6d.), Hamlet {2s. 6d.),
Leiden Jar (los. 6d.), Cygnet (5s. 6d,), William

The Late Robert Sydenham. — I cannot close
these notes without a reference to poor " Uncle
Robert," whom everyone recognised as the life
and soul of the Midland Daffodil Society. In
the midst of a busy morning he was called away,
never to take part again in his huge business
and the many horticultural activities which must
have been to him life itself. He was a keen man
of business, and the two flowers to which he devoted
especial attention in this connection were the
Daffodil and the Sweet Pea. By his efforts these
have been made more popular than otherwise
they would have been, and as we who love Daffodils
are the gainers, let me in your name say how
grateful we are for what he has accomplished.
It is as a populariser of the Daffodil (and the Sweet
Pea) that his name will live in horticultural
annals. Joseph Jacob.

A SWEET PEA CHAMPIONSHIP
TROPHY.

The Boundary Chemical Company of Liverpool are
offering an International Sweet Pea Championship

THE CH.\MPIONSHIP CH.\LLENGE TROPHY FOR SWEET PEAS TO BE COMPETED FOR
AT THE CARLISLE SHOW ON THE I3TH AND I4TH INST.

Baylor Hartland (los. 6d.), Treasure Trove (los.),
Loveliness (12s. 6d.), Mrs. G. H. Barr {21s.),
Cleopatra (20s.), Rising Sun (2rs.) and Diogenes
(20S.).

Incomparables. — Northern Light (2s.), Ursula
(2S.), Neptune (21s.), Steadfast (2s.), Warden
(2S. 6d.), Noble (5s. 6d.) and Solfatare (2s. 6d.).

Barri. — Cossack (12s. 6d.), Ethelbert (3s. \
The President (25s.), Charles (21s.), Charm (21s.),
Occident (2s. 6d.), Red Chief (2s. 6d.), Orestes
(gd.). Red Eve (los.). Zenith (3s. 6d.), Coeur de
Lion (25. 6d.), Armorel (gd.) and Red Emperor
{21S.).

Leedsii. — Norah Pearson (15s.), Kittiwake (15s.),
Thora (21s.), Countess of Southesk (4s.), Evange-
line (2S.), St. Olaf (i2S. 6d.), White Coimtess (5s.)
and Venus (21s.),

Poets. — Millie Price (2s. 6d.), Kingsley (20s.),
Matthew Arnold (15s.). George Herbert (5s.),
Acme (20s.) and Orange Ring (2s.).

Poetaz. — Admiration (3s.), Orient (is.) and
Sunset (is.).

Challenge Trophy, to be competed for this season
at the Carlisle and Cumberland Horticultural
Society's Show at Carlisle on August 13 and 14.
The chosen representatives are : England, Mr. A. E.
Usher ; Scotland, Mr. J. A. Grigor ; Ireland,
Mr. E. Cowdy ; and Wales, Mr. T. Jones. The
contest is the outcome of a wish expressed
by Mr. Walter P. Wright that the champion
growers should meet together each year at a given
place for a friendly contest. The size of the trophy
is 24 inches long by 12 inches high.

A Good Dwarf Shrub. — The Dyers' Green-
wood (Genista tinctoria) is a very attractive
dwarf shrub, and flowers during June and July.
Growing some six inches to nine inches high,
the spreading plants clothe the ground, and
during June and July produce a profusion of
yellow blossoms. There is no need to fill pockets
in the rockery with rich soil for the Dyers'
Greenwood ; in fact, the plants flower more
abundantly in poor, sandy soil.

392

THE GARDEN.

[August 2, 1913.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
unih thai object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor 0/ The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London. W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be itsed in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp gross or inoss, not cotton-wool, and floivering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the PuBLlsnER.

FLOWER GARDEN.

BOUNDARY WALL (G?:;7i^s).— You would not harm the
wall in any way by doing what you propose, and if there
is an opportunity for the roots of the plants to descend
later into the crevices of the wall, quite a number of the
plants would thrive. As you desire to add to the height
of the wall, you cannot do better than sow seeds of rather
tall -growing Wallflowers, Intermediate Antirrhinums in
variety, and red and white Valerian. Papaver nudicaule
would be also good and pretty, both in effect and variety.
The present is not a pood time for the work, and late
August to October would be much better. The Valerian
in such circumstances often attains a height of 2 feet,
and is also a good perennial. The Antirrhinums, too, are
often perennial in such positions.

IRIS DISEASED (A. E. T.).— The Iris is affected by the
Iris leaf blotch, and all diseased parts should be collected
and burnt. The disease has been less prevalent this
year because of the extreme dryness. A wet season always
encourages the spread of such things. By dusting the
soil of the Iris bed with lime, the ground spores of the
fungus might be kept in check. In a year like 1912.
however, you might try syringing with sulphide of
potassium, 2oz. to a gallon of water, with soft soap freely
added ; or you might, when the plants are moist, dust
them with dry Bordeaux powder, soil and all. The dusting
should take place in April or May to act as a preventive
measure, and probably no other will be needed. To wait
till the plants are overwhelmed by disease is wrong.
Isolate the weakly plant of 1. orieutalis. or, better still,
dig it up and burn it. The best time to replant the
Hellebore, when it should also be divided up quite freely,
is August.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

RHODODENDRONS (T. W. H.).--Yo\i do not say
whether your Himalayan Rhododendrons are in pots
or planted in borders. H in the former, expose the plants
from now to the end of the year to plenty of sunshine, and
do not keep them too wot at the roots. This treatment
will conduce to the well ripening of the wood and to the
formation of flower-buds. If they are planted in a border,
you cannot do much to hasten their time of flowering ;
but no doubt they will flower in due time and will repay
vou for waiting so long. Seedling Rhododendrons do
not flower so soon as grafted ones.

THE GREENHOUSE.

SECONDARY BLOOMS ON PELARGONIUMS (M. L.).
— Some varieties of Zonal Pelargoniums are far more
likely to produce secondary head« of blossom than others.
You do not say whether the trouble is limited to one kind,
or if all the varieties are similarly affected. Plants whose
roots are in a poor condition, and are, consequently,
growing weakly, are more prone to this behaviour than
the more robust ones. Plenty of air, good healthy roots
and a reasonable quantity of water consistent with elTective
drainage are the more effectual methods of keeping this
in check.

FUCHSIAS LOSING THEIR LEAVES {R. J. C.).— As
Fuchsia plants arc, generally speaking, of such easy
culture, it i^ difficult to assign with confidence any reason
for yours behaving in the way they have done. In the
first place, you say that they did not lose their old leaves
in the spring, which would suggest that you kept them
freely watered throughout the muter. This might be
answerable for some of the trouble, as the plants naturally
would not start away with the same vigour as if they had
passed the winter in a fairly dry and dormant state. Even
then they should not have behaved so badly as yours have
done. Another question is whether any deleterious
matter came by any chance to be mixed with the potting
compost. You do not say whether you have turned out
two or three of the plants, in order to examine the state
of the roots. If a fair amount of fresh, healthy roots
can be seen taking possession of the new soil, your plants
will no doubt now recover and flower well towards the
end of the summer. If no healthy roots are to be seen.

we advise you to repot in some fresh compost. In
any case, do not stand the plants in full sun, but in a
partially-shaded spot, and spray them over with the
syringe two or three times a day, as atmospheric moisture
is very beneficial to Fuchsias in general.

HYDRANGEA NOT FLOWERING WELL (i. C.).~
The specimen of Hydrangea sent is not the common
Hydrangea (H. Hortensia), but the variety Lindleyi.
This differs markedly from the common kind, inasmuch
as it is of more slender growth and the flower-heads much
smaller. Another important item is that in this variety
the large sterile blooms, which form the showiest portion
of a cluster of Hydrangea flowers, are limited to a few
scattered round the outside of the cluster, and not, as in
the common kind, forming one closely-packed head.
The sprays sent have certainly a poor and unhappy look,
but there is no error of culture answerable for the paucity
of the large, sterile blooms, this feature being simply
characteristic of the particular variety. We should advise
you to obtain some good, young, vigorous plants from a
reliable source, and if they are liberally treated, your
trouble will, we think, be at an end. One thing worthy
of note is that the variety Lindleyi is hardier than the
common Hydrangea, so that if you plant out yours, they
will as flowering shrubs probably give you far more satis-
faction than they have done in pots.

FRUIT GARDEN.

TARRED FELT AND APPLES {T. W. H.).— Lime is the
most effective deodoriser we have. We are sorry it was not
powerful enough to destroy the smell of the tar. A
thin layer of short lawn grass would be useful in helping
to prevent the too rapid evaporation of moisture from
the soil in which your Apple trees are growing. It must
not be applied too thickly, or it will heat and become
mildewed and nasty, and prevent air and rain from
penetrating into the soil.

RASPBERRIES DISEASED (fl. T.).— The white patches
on the stems of the Raspberries sent are symptomatic
of the disease due to Hendersonia rubi ; but you do not
send the lower part of the stem, where the disease is pro-
bably worse, so that we cannot say exactly whether this
fungus or some other is at work. For spraying, Bordeaux
mixture, at the strength usual for spraying Potatoes,
should be used, but not within three weeks of picking
the fruit. The old canes should be cut out completely
as soon as possible, and the young ones sprayed with the
Bordeaux mixture or with potassium siiphide, loz. to
three gallons of water.

PEACH LEAVES DAMAGED (J. fl.).— The leaves
are thin, with no substance in them, showing that the
trees are not m robust health, and therefore liable to an
attack of disease when subjected to such strong bursts
of sunshine as we have had lately. The damage has been
caused by an attack of what is termed shot-hole fungus.
The best remedy to apply is to scatter sulphur thickly
over and under the leaves, leaving it on for a couple of
days, shading the trees in the meanwhile, and afterwards
syringing off the sulphur. Give the trees abundance of
air night and day, syringing them morning and evening
to encourage new and healthy growth.

MISCELLANEOUS.

CLASS AND ENTRY BOOKS (TT. J. P.).— The most
serviceable books are those prepared by the secretary.
A hook with quarto pages, ruled feint, "should be used,
and a line may be drawn down the left side of the page
1 inch from the edge. On the top line put the class
number and its contents. To the left of the marginal
line put the exhibitors* numbers, and to the right the
exhibitors' names, but not their addresses. Thus we may
have a headline as follows : " Class 24, four dishes hardy
fruits, distinct kinds." Beneath we may read : " 1, Chas.
Jones ; 5, Harry Wright ; 6, W. J. Parr ; 10, Tom
Browne ; 22, R. B. Pearce ; 24, J. Adams." One sees at
a glance who is in the class, and when the judges have
made their awards, the secretary should go round the show
and inscribe the awards in this book, which is called the
Class Book. A second similar book, thumb indexed, is called
the Entry Book. The entries are placed in alphabetical
order, and each is entered thus : Entry No. 24, J. Adams,
complete address, and beneath, arranged in a column,
the number of classes in which he is competing. And
thus one proceeds for each exhibitor. When the judges'
decisions have been entered in the Class Book, transfer
to the Entry Book, and it will be seen at a glance to how
much prize-money each exhibitor is entitled.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— £. S. B— Hose Mme. Alfred

Carri^re. Miss K. Denison. — The Carnation is John

Pope, a good old border sort, but very much improved on

now. E. D. — The Roses are: 2, Daniel Lacombe; 3,

Mme. .lean Dupuy; 4, Gloire de Exposition de Bruxelles.

Hampshire R. — Senecio Jacobsea. It is a perennial,

and reproduces itself from seed. The best way to get rid

of it is to dig it up. Ignoramus. — 1, The Campanula is

a seedling form of C. rotundifolia ; 2, the Viola was quite
withered up when it reached us. Send again packed in

damp moss. W. Q. — 1, Dianthus deltnidcs albus, 2, I).

plumarius variety ; 3, D. Waldsteinii ; 4, !►. superbus ; 5,

8edum obtusatum ; 6, S. spathulifolium. G. R.,

Somerset. — Acanthus mollis. A. B. C. — 2, Spirsea

canescens ; 3, Verbascum nigrum ; 4, Salisburia adianti-
folia (Ginkgo biloba), Maiden-hair Tree , 5, Sedum

roseum. G. Britnell. — 1, Euphrasia officinalis; 2,

Spiraea Ulmaria ; 3, Teucrium Scorodonia ; 4, Hypericum
pulchrum; 5, Galium verum; 6, Calamintha Clinopodium;
7, Senecio Jacobrea ; 8, Dactylis glomerata variegata ; 9,
Centaurea nigra ; 10, Potentilla Tormentilla.

SOC I ET I ES.

NATIONAL CARNATION AND PICOTEE SOCIETY
(SOUTHERN SECTION).

The exhibition of this society, held in the Royal Horti-
cultural Hall on July 18, was a most interesting display
for lovers of the border Carnation and Picotee. There
was a good number of entries, and the flowers shown
were of exceptionally good quality, there being a fair
attendance during the afternoon.

Division I. — Flowers Shown on Cards.

The first prize for twelve blooms, bizarrea and flakes,
dissimilar varieties, was secured by Mr. James Douglas,
Edenside, Great Bookham, Surrey, who had a most
effective set, consisting of Recorder, Master Fred, Sarah
Payne, Supreme, Gordon Lewis, J. S. Hedderley, George
Melville, R. Houlgrave (the premier scarlet bizarre),
Kiobe, Torchlight, Meteor and Tomtit. Messrs. C. Blick,
A. R. Brown, Limited, and H. Mathias followed in order
of merit.

For twelve selfs, dissimilar, Mr. J. Douglas again led,
the winning varieties being Bookham White, Blay Day,
Miss Willmott, Bookham Yellow, Cardinal, Rlrs. George
Marshall, Maud Allen, Mrs. Guy Sebright, Basuto, Miss
Shiffner, Robert Bruce and Ruby. Mr. H. Mathias
followed with a nice clean set as second, Messrs. A. R.
Brown, Limited, third, and Mr. Charles Blick fourth.

Mr. Charles Blick secured leading honours for twelve
fancies, dissimilar, Mr. H. Mathias second, Mecsrs. A. R.
Brown third, and Mr. J. Douglas fourth, the latter winning
a premier with Linkman.

For twelve Picotee blooms, white ground, dissimilar,
Mr. J. Douglas took first, Mr. C, Blick second and premier
with Merlit-a, and Mr. H. Mathias third.

For twelve Picotee blooms, yellow ground, dissimilar,
Mr. Charles Blick secured fljst and premier with Her
Majesty, Mr. James Douglas second, and Mr. H. Mathias
third.

Division I. — Flowers Shown as Grown.

In the class for four varieties of Carnation blooms,
selfs, to be shown in vases, three blooms of each variety,
with Carnation foliage, Mr. J. Douglas secured first,
Mr. C. Blick second. Mr. S. J. Payne third, and Mr. H.
Lakeman fourth.

For a similar number of fancies, other than white
ground, Mr. J. Douglas again led. Mr. H, Mathias was
second, Mr. C. Blick third, and Messrs. A. R. Brown
fourth.

In the class for white-ground fancies, Mr. J. Douglas
was first, Mr. C. Blick second, and Mr. S. J. Payne third.

For four varieties of Picotee blooms, yellow ground,
three blooms of each variety, Mr. J. Douglas came first,
Mr. C. Blick second, Mr. S. J. Payne third, and Mr. H.
Lakeman fourth.

Some very interesting stands were provided in the
class for nine distinct varieties, including selfs, fancies
and yellow-ground Picotees, in separate vases, three
blooms of each variety, Mr. J. Douglas coming first,
Mr. H. Mathias second, Mr. H. Lakeman third, and Mr.
C. Blick fourth. It should be noted that the trade growers
can only show in Division I.

Division II. — Flowers Shown on Cards.

For six Carnation blooms, bizarres and flakes, dis-
similar, Mr. H. R, Taylor, Cheam, secured the leading
award, Mr. J. Fairlie, Acton, coming second and securing
a premier with Gordon Lewis.

In the class for six Carnation bloom=, selfs, Mr. H. R.
Taylor was again flrst, Mr. C. A. Linzee, Alresford, takim^
second and premier with Mrs. George Marshall.

For six Carnation blooms, fancies, dissimilar, Mr.
H. R. Taylor again led, Mr. J. A. Font, Winchester,
coming second.

In the class for six Picotee bloom3, white ground, dis-
similar, Mr. J. J, Keen obtained first place, and Mr. H. K.
Taylor second and a premier with the var'ety John Smith.

For six yellow-cround Picotee blooms, dissimilar,
Mr. H. R. Taylor was awarded flrst and a premier for
Eclipse.

Division II. — Flowers Shown as Grown.

For three blooms, one variety, pink or rose selfs, Mr.
W. H. Parton obtained flrst. Miss E. Shiffner second,
Mr. R. Morton third, and Mr. J. A. Font fourth.

For three blooms, one variety, white selfs, Mr. J. Fairlie
secured first, Mr. R. Morton second, and Mr. E. J. Price
third.

For three blooms, dark red or maroon selfs, Mr. 0. A.
Linzee secured flrst, Mr. W. H. Parton second, and Mr.
F. Pitcher, Maidenhead, third.

Miss Shiffner secured the leading position for three
blooms of yellow selfs, and Mr. H. B. Taylor came second.

Mr. R. Morton, Woodside Park, N., occupied the
premier place with three red or scarlet selfs, followed by
Miss Shiffner.

The following exhibitors secured first prizes for the
respective classes : Mr. R. Morton for three yellow-ground
Picotees ; Mr. H. W. Frostick for three buff or terra-
cotta selfs ; Mr. J. Fairlie for three selfs ; Mr. J. A. Font
for three yellow or buff ground fancies ; and Mr. H. W.
Frostick for three fancies other than yellow, buff, or
white ground.

Open to Amateurs Onlt.

The Martin Smith Memorial Challenge Cup class was
strongly contested, Mr. R. Morton, Woodside Park, N.,
again winning the cup with a splendid set of blooms. The
varieties shown wore Donald McDonald, Cardinal, Santa
Claus, Basuto, John Ruskin. Skirmisher. Lord Steyue,
Linkman, Onward, Bookham White. Margaret Lennox
and Miss Willmott. Mr. W. H. Parton, Moseley, came
second, and Mr. J. Fairlie, Acton, third.

Jlfe*:.

i%psr^-

GARDEN.

-3^»=

^5^^^^

No. 2177.— Vol. LXXVII.

August 9, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes of the Week 393

Correspondence

Pruning Hose La
France .. .. 394

Rose Gustave Regis
a? a large bush . . 394

Are Ten-week Stocks
dying out?.. .. 394

White Rose oint-
ment 394

Beautiful floral com-
binations . . . . 394

Musk losing it? scent 395

Some good Primulas 395
Forthcoming events.. 395
Greenhodse

The autumn propa-
gation of Fuchsias 395

Some interesting
plants in flower 395

Dutch Hyacinths to
flower at Christ-
mas 396

Hippeastrums from

seed 396

Flower OAunEN

Intermediate, East
Lothian and
Bronipton Stocks 397

Raising Pansies from
seeds 397

Flower G.\rden

Clover in lawns . . 397
Gardens of to-Day

Trcgothnan, Cornwall 397
Rock and Water Garden
The Rosette Mullein 399
TREES AND Shrubs

The Mock Oranges 399
UosE Garden
Preparing soil for

Rose gardens . . 400
Rose Cynthia Forde 400
Gakdenino for Beginners
How to force early
bulbsin pots, pans
and boxes . . . . 401
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 402

For Northern gar-
dens 402

New and Rare

Plants 403

Answers to Corre-
spondents
Flower garden . . 403
Fruit garden . . 404

Rose garden . . . . 404
Miscellaneous , . 404

Societies 404

ILiIiUSTRATIONS.

Rose Gustave Regis 394

Specially-'reated Dutch Hyacinths 396

A beautiful spring border at Trcgothnan 398

The Broad Walk at Tregothnan 398

A beautiful colony of the Rosette Mullein . . . . 399

Rose Cynthia Forde 400

How to pot bulbs for forcing 401

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, hoivever, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As refiards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated ivith.

The Editor imll not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden u^lt atone
be recognised as acceptance.

Oftref . 20. Tavislc-k Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Removing Seed-Pods from Plants.— To obtain

as much bloom as possible from plants it is very
important to remove all seed-pods as soon as they
appear. By doing so the majority of plants,
particularly annuals, will continue to flower for a
very much longer period than they would if allowed
to develop their seeds.

Dividing Paeonias. — As soon as the foUage of
the plants is getting drj', it will be a suitable time
to divide them where necessary. By doing so
now the succulent roots will suffer less than if
disturbed in the autumn or spring. It is advisable
to select dull weather for the operation, if possible,
although this is not absolutely necessary, but an
occasional watering will be found very beneficial.

Honour for Viscountess Wolseley. — The

Honorary Freedom of the Gardeners' Company
was presented to Viscountess Wolseley on Monday
of last week as an appreciation of her work in
the interests of gardening. The presentation was
made by the Lord Mayor of London, At the
dinner held afterwards, the Master of the Gardeners'
Company stated that Lady Wolseley had created
a new profession for women.

An Interesting Bellflower. — One of the most
interesting of the Campanulas or Bellflowers
just now is C. lanata, a plant that does not appear
to be at all well known. The lower shoots press
closely up to the rockwork against which it is
planted, while the mam shoot grows erect. The
flowers are large, creamy white in colour, and are
now open. We noticed some particularly good
plants in the rock garden at Kew a few days ago.

Fruit and Potato Crops in the Bordeaux
District. — We are informed by the Board of
Agriculture that a report received from the
Bordeaux Consular District states that Plums are
not likely to be very plentiful, the fruits having
dropped badly during stoning. Marbat Walnuts
are expected to give a moderate crop, and the
Games variety a medium crop, but the well-known
Grenoble Walnut is likely to be short. Potatoes
are likely to yield well, as, up to the present,
disease has not appeared.

A Pretty New Zealand Shrub.— In Piagianthus
Lyallii we possess a valuable deciduous flowering
shrub belonging to the Mallow family. Planted in
the open border, it forms a large bush 7 feet to
8 feet or more in height. The flowers are freely
produced in clusters in the axils of the leaves.
They are ij inches or more across, pure white and
slightly cup-shaped. The flowering season is July.
Coming from New Zealand, those who are acquainted
with the character of the flora know that sometimes,
during very severe winters, trees and shrubs suffer
considerable damage. For this reason, in the colder
parts of the country, Piagianthus Lyallii is planted
against, a sunny south wall. At Kew a few years
ago a bush growing m the open was cut to the

ground ; the following year, however, vigorous
young shoots pushed up from the base, and it is
now a large, spreading bush 8 feet in height and
flowering profusely. Layering forms the readiest
means of increase.

The Irish Heath. — In the Heath garden just
now this plant, Daboecia polifolia, is one of the
most conspicuous features, its erect shoots, clothed
with dancing, balloon-shaped flowers, attracting
much attention. At Kew they have it grouped
in good-sized masses, together with the white-
flowered variety appropriately named alba.
Another very charming variety at Kew is named
D, p. erecta atropurpurea. This is rather more erect
than the type, and has large flowers of rich rosy
purple hue. These Irish Heaths are amenable
to the same treatment as the hardy Heaths proper.

Transplanting the Madonna Lily. — Anyone
desirous of transplanting the beautiful Madonna
Lily, Lilium candidum, will find the present time
most suitable. Seldom are the plants seen to better
advantage than in a cottage garden where they are
left undisturbed for years, which goes to prove
that they should only be taken up when absolutely
necessary through overcrowding. Then the largest
bulbs should be replanted and the smaller ones
grown for a year or two in the nursery. If the
plants are suffering from the disease which often
attacks them, the bulbs ought to be freely dusted
with sulphur before they are replanted.

Nemesias for Spring Flowering. — These lovely
South African flowers are much appreciated in
the conservatory or greenhouse in springtime.
The plants are easily grown in pots from seeds
sovra in August. Nemesia strumosa nana com-
pacta and N. s. Suttonii, both producing mixed
colours, are suitable varieties for pot culture.
If the seeds are sown in boxes or pans, the resultant
seedlings must be transplanted in pots while quite
small, five in a 6J-inch pot being sufficient ; or
they may be sown in the larger pots and surplus
plants drawn out, the after-treatment being
similar to that given to pot Mignonette.

A Perpetual - flowering Veronica. — Because
occasionally, when planted in exposed positions,
the shrubby New Zealand Veronicas suffer during
severe frosts, many horticulturists neglect them.
Suitable positions can be found for them in most
gardens. — a shrubbery border with a south or west
exposure, or similar aspects sheltered by a wall or
fence. Even if the plants are occasionally damaged
or killed outright when growing in the open, they
can soon be replaced by yoimg plants grown from
cuttings, which are as easy to root as Fuchsias.
One variety in particular, named Autumn Beauty,
may be truly described as a perpetual-flowering
Veronica, for it is seldom, if ever, without a few
flowers, while during summer and autumn the
bushes are laden with blossoms, gj Growing and
flowering freely from 12 inches in height upwards,
the plants are covered with small, dense racemes
of rich purple flowers about two inches in length.

394

THE GARDEN.

[August g, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Are Ten-Week Stocks Dying Out ?— In " Notes
of the Week," issue July 26, the reference to these
Stocks is very timely. Everything should be
done to encourage cultivators to grow them slill
more than they have been in the past. Un-
doubtedly the reasons advanced in the note referred
to are the true ones, as plants of the Intermediate
section do grow larger and branch more freely.
The coarser and more branching specimens of the
Ten-week section generally bear single flowers,
whereas the dwarfer ones bear double flowers
and usually form one very handsome spike. The
time needed in which to grow
good Ten - week Stocks is not
imduly long. Perhaps committees
of horticultural societies will note
the references to this subject
and in future provide two classes,
one for Ten-week Stocks only. —
G. G.

Rose Gustavo Regis as a

Large Bush. — The enclosed photo-
graph of Rose Gustave Regis

growing in a suburban garden

may be of interest to some of

your readers. In my opinion it

is the best of the old garden

Roses for suburban districts, in

spite of the fact that it does not

flower much in the autumn.

The plant illustrated stands over

five feet high, and a week after

the photograph was taken scarcely

a leaf could be seen for flowers.

In the bud stage the colour is

soft nankeen yellow, the flowers

opening to creamy white. The

buds, which are long and of ex-
quisite shape, are excellent for

button-holes. I do not understand

why more of such Roses as Griiss

an Teplitz, Florence Haswell Veitch

and J. B. Clark are not grown

as large, free bushes. — A. B.

Essex.
Pruning Rose La France.— I

quite agree with the note on

this subject on page 371, issue

July 26, above the well - known

initials " G. G." Several years

ago a number of correspon-
dents wrote calling attention to

the merits of unpruned Rose ROSE GUST

bushes. At that time a note

from my pen described a speci-
men of Rose La France which had received

no pruning for years and carried a large quantity
of splendid flowers. La France is often dis-
appointing when hard pruned in spring. Where
this is so I would advise the practice of thinning
out the weak shoots now, and cutting oft the soft
tips in March. Many other Roses might be treated
in this way with advantage. There is a row of
Rose Perle d'Or not far from where I am writing,
the individual bushes of which are from 4 feet to
5 feet in height, and they have been covered with
bloom and present a fine effect in the garden.
These bushes are allowed to grow at will, the only
pruning they receive being the removal of dead
wood and dead flowers. Where space permits

(and especially in the wild garden) unpruned or
lightly-pruned Roses should be given a trial.
Many of the ramblers would be more satisfactory
with less pruning and less formal training. A
word of caution, however : Do not neglect to give
a good rooting medium for Roses, and make every
attempt to keep down insect pests. — Colin Ruse,
35, West Road, Saffron Walden. Essex.

White Rose Ointment. — In reference to the
making of ointment from Rose Blanche Belgique,
mentioned in your issue for July 12, page 346,
I have just received the following recipe, which
I send on to you : " The Roses Fettles must be
dry or the Ointment will go Mieildew, Homemade
Lard : or Frest Butter from the Chure with aut
Salt in it then Simmer in an Eaithen Pipken
(Miss Anne have one) Put as Meney Rose leeves

:1V E REGIS AS A LARGE BUSH.
FIVE FEET HIGH.

THIS PI,.\NT

in as you can and simmer Slawly untill it begen
to tume Brawn Strain thraugh a Peace of Muse-
land. I shuld think Enamel Sauspan would do
as well. I remember the Rose leaves use to be
Cramed In, when the leaves use to tume Brawn
it was read to be Stram. the Ointment use to be
white." The ouitment was used for chapped
faces and hands in winter, and on further enquiry
I found that a little Friar's balsam was sometimes
added to the ointment, and was told " the dry
Rose petals was saved till we killed a pig," and
" the ointment was kep' in china pots with china
lids." The red earthenware pipkin is glazed
inside and has a quaint handle. It is an antique
one given me by another villager " because she

knew Miss Anne liked all those sort of old things."
I did not know its particular use till the grey-
haired wT"iter of the preceding recipe said, " I see
you've got an old ointment pipkin. Miss Anne,
like my mother used to make her white Rose oint-
ment in years a-gone, and you've got the old
ointment Roses in your garden too. I ain't seen
any of them since I was a child." I do not know
where the Rose is now to be obtained. The bushes
in my garden are evidently extremely old, and I
have hitherto failed to root any cuttings from
them, although I have often tried to do so, as all
my friends who see and smell them desire to have
a bush of them. — Anne Amateur.

Beautiful Floral Combinations. — I think it
may be of interest to those of your readers who ,
are constantly on the look-out for new colour- 1
schemes to instance the following
combinations which I have noticed
with especial pleasure in my garden
during the present season. Masses
of Malva moschata alba alternating
with great drifts of Campanula
rotundifolia (or one of its varieties)
afforded a spectacle of rare and
delicate beauty. The pure scarlet
of Lychnis chalcedonica is a perfect
foil for the equally pure white of
Lilium candidum. Lastly, the, to
. my mind, somewhat acrid pink of
Rose Dorothy Perkins is pleasingly
relieved by breadths of Viola com uta
growing beneath. Too often the
flowers suggested for combination
disappoint us by their failure to
blossom at the same time. I think
no difficulty will be experienced in
the case of those which I mention.
It is, in my view, essential to the
success of colour-schemes that con-
siderable quantities of specimens of
one species should be used, and I
have purposely refrained from in-
stancing harmonies afforded by
plants which from their rarity can-
not be employed so lavishly as the
nature of the case demands. — Ray-
mond E. Negus, Walton-on-Thames.

A pretty floral combination

I saw recently was produced by
Shirley Poppies and blue Corn-
flowers mixed together. The
Poppies, unfortunately, do not last,
but while they did, the mixture was
exceedingly telling and produced
at an expense of twopence for the
seeds. Another equally cheap com-
WAS OVER bination is produced by Asperula
sctosa and Linaria aureo-rcticulata
or L. purpurea, but the first Linaria
is the better of the two. An annual I am very fond
of, but scarcely ever to be seen, is that loiown as
Lobel's Catchfly, the botanist's Silene Armeria. I
have an Antirrhinum exactly the same shade of
colour which I am hoping to use in combination
with the former, its squat growth calling for a
spiral-growing plant to get the most out of it.
While on the question of combinations I may men-
tion one formed by a group of Crucianella stylosa
running through and intermixing with one of
Nepeta Mussinii on a rockery. The first impulse
was to separate them ; but, dirty as the Crucia-
nella looks, the colour blends very nicely with
the Nepeta — another instance of the unexpected in
colour combinations. — R. P. Brotherston.

August 9, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

395

Musk Losing Its Scent. — Respecting thie loss
r>f scent in Musk, to vvliicli there liave been several
references lately, I dare not affirm that it smells
less Musky than in the past, because I do not
recollect the scent ever to have been strong. And
it is well to remember that the perfume of flowers
varies to a very considerable degree. In some
conditions of the atmosphere scent is imperceptible,
and this is very noticeable with Roses, Sweet
Briar especially, and with common Primroses,
ihi- perfume of which on a warm, almost sultry
cl.iv pervades the air to such an extent that we
-1 era to draw it in with our breath. How diverse
HI the strength of its perfume, too, is a
held of Beans ! And so with plants which smell
badly. Some days one cannot pass a clump of
Crown Imperials without being made uncomfort-
ably aware of its presence by its foxy smell, which
under other atmospheric conditions is not apparent
at all. Last of all, we cannot leave out of account
the state of the individual's organ of smell, which
mthout a doubt alters not only with age, but with
the condition of one's health. On the whole I
should, therefore, be chary about saying Musk
is Musk no longer.

Some Good Primulas. — I recently had the
pleasure of spi uding an hour or two along with
Dr. McWatt in his garden at Morclands, Duns. It
was too late for Primulas in general, but I saw
the old and fine P. sikkimensis in fine condition,
and a nice hybrid between pulverulent a and
cockburniana, with the flowers like the latter and
habit and pulverulence of the former. It is named
Lissadell Hybrid. The last named, it may be
added, is perennial in the Duns locality. Dr.
McWatt finds a difficulty with common vulgaris
in its double forms, a difficulty shared with others.
AH the same, a large border is occupied by a full
. ollection of sorts not long broken up. One way
the difficulties of Primula cultivation are lessened
is by plunging the pots in sand kept wet to a good
depth. There is space in the garden for a great
variety of plants other than Primulas, at the
expense perhaps of material for the cook, and
flowers, consequently, are everywhere. Quite a
good collection of flowering and other shrubs is
also cultivated, a huge specimen of a Phyllostachys
demonstrating the hardiness of the Bamboo tribe
in this cold district. A new rockery is in course
of being furnished, and here, too, the ubiquitous
Primulas were conspicuous. But Dr. McWatt is
by no means prejudiced in Iris floral tastes, and
works on Violas, Foxgloves and Delphiniums
with the prescience of the cultured and observant
amateur. — R. P. Brotherston.

THE GREENHOUSE.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

.August II. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Meeting.

.\ugust 12. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhi-
bition. Flower Show at Clay Cross.

August 13. — Flower Shows at CarUsle (two
days), Exmouth (two days) and Capel. East
.\nglian Horticultural Club's Meeting.

August 14. — Flower Shows at Tatmton Deane,
Merthyr Tydvil, .Abingdon and Oxford.

.\ugust 16. — Shows at Ambergate, Seascale and
Lake District.

August 18. — Shows at Warkworth and Pitsmoor
(Sheffield).

August 20. — Shows at Shrewsbury (two days)
and Wallingford. Banffshire, West Cumberland
and Royal Jersey Horticultural Society's Shows.

August 21. — Flower Show at Aberdeen (two
days).

THE AUTUMN PROPAGATION OF
FUCHSIAS.

IF cuttings are inserted now. nearly a whole
year is gained in the building up of fine
plants suitable for pot culture or for the
furnishing of the flower garden in the
summer-time. I have propagated hundreds
of cuttings at this season of the year, and
they have grown into very nice plants by the
following spring. Fuchsia plants are generally
gradually dried off as the autumn passes. They
are then stored in a place just safe from frost
until the early part of the following spring, when
the old ball of soil is reduced in size, the branches
are pruned back as required, and the repotting is
done in smaller pots. In dealing with the autumn-
struck cuttings, the cultivator must keep them
growing steadily throughout the winter months,
simply repotting them in February or March
as they need more rooting space. The growth
made in the winter will not be great, but it is an
advantage, and the autumn-struck plants will
be one-third larger at the end of the following
summer than those propagated in the spring of
the same year.

Select strong young shoots growing near the
base of the old plant ; they make the best cuttings.
If there arc flower-buds on any of the shoots,
remove them. Very few will appear on them
afterwards during the autumn ; any that form
must be pinched off. Each cutting should be
about four inches long. Cut off the two lower
leaves and sever the stem just below a joint. Use
a light, sandy compost, one made of loam and leaf-
soil in equal proportions, with a small quantity
of old mortar and pounded brick added, and
sufficient coarse sand to render it all very porous.
This complete porosity is necessary, as the plants
will need occasional watering during the winter-
time. Place the pots in a frame turned towards
the north, and lightly shade the glass when the
sun shines brightly. When first inserted, give
the cuttings a good watering, afterwards maintain-
ing the soil in a medium state of moisture. Occa-
sional syringings on fine days will revive the foliage
a great deal, and mil do more good than a watering
of the soil in the pots. If the soil is kept in a con-
stantly saturated condition, the cuttings will not
thrive well in it, and many leaves will be lost.
If the cuttings are inserted round the edges of
5-inch and 61-inch pots, they will be easily wintered
on shelves in a warm greenhouse or in a heated
frame. Avon.

SOME INTERESTING PLANTS IN
FLOWER.

Where they have not been growii very warmly,
some of the finest gesneraoeous plants, such as the
.Achimenes, Gloxinias and Streptocarpuses, will
be just now at their best. There is a great tendency
to regard these different subjects as fit only for a
warm structure ; indeed. Gloxinias are often
referred to as stove plants.

Gloxinias. — Where they are needed early, it is
necessary to subject them to a considerable amount
of heat ; but in some cases at least their blossoms
will be more appreciated during the latter part of
the summer than earlier in the season. Given
one year old tubers. Gloxinias may be grown
imder much the same conditions as Begonias ;
that is to say, they may be started in the spring
in a gentle heat, and by the end of May artificial

heat can be readily dispensed with. From that
time a cold frame is the best place for the plants,
shifting them into their flowering pots as they
need it. Gloxinias and, in fact, all gesneraceous
plants are well served by a liberal use of good
leaf-mould in the potting compost. Should the
weather be cold after the plants are removed to
the frame, it will be an advantage to shut the
lights up early in order to husband the stm-heat.
Grown coolly in this way, the leaves arc of a better
substance than they are in a warm and much-
shaded structure, while insect pests give scarcely
any trouble. The flower-stems, too, are more
sturdy, so that less support is needed. Of course,
where blossoms are required early, this cool treat-
ment cannot be recommended ; but for the produc-
tion of flowers during the latter part of July and
in .\ugust this is by far the better plan.

Achimenes. — ^The numerous varieties of these
also form a charming feature in the green-
house at this season, showing as they do a
wide range of colour and a great profusion of
bloom. Despite their desirable qualities, they
can scarcely be regarded as popular plants at
the present time, probably to a certain ex-
tent owing to the fact that they are of
little service for cutting, a standard by which
A'Avering plants are so generally judged nowadays.
Still, for hanging baskets, to be at their best during
the summer, there are very few classes of plants
to equal the Achimenes, as when suspended the
branches acquire a semi-pendulous habit of growth,
which shows off the butterfly-like flowers to the
greatest advantage. In commencing the culture
of .Achimenes, the best plan is early in the year to
obtain a good selection of the dormant tubercles,
when they can be sent by post for a few pence.
These should be obtained from a reliable source,
so that the collection may be as varied as possible.
The tubercles may be potted three in a small pot,
and when sufficiently advanced should, without
disturbing the roots, be shifted into larger pots.
Put several together into deep pans to make large
specimens, or plant in baskets for hanging up.
Potted about the beginning of March and placed
in a temperature of 50° to 65°, they will soon grow
.-.way freel}'.

Streptocarpuses. — While Achimenes have de-
clined in popular favoiur, Streptocarpuses have
in the same time made great headway ; indeed,
the present garden forms are of quite recent origin.
This class of plants is remarkable for its com-
paratively large, showy blossoms, the great profusion
in which they are borne, and for the wide diversity
in colour that now exists among them. Few
flowering plants are the equal of the Strepto-
carpuses for growing in a structiu'e where they
get a good deal of shade. Streptocarpuses may be
readily increased by seed, which, sown early in
the year, will produce plants that will flower
in the course of the season. Their period of use-
fulness is then by some considered to be over,
but they may with advantage be kept and grown
on for another year. They should during the
winter be kept in a temperature of 50° to 60%
giving just enough water to keep the roots in good
condition, as the Streptocarpus does not form
tubers in the same way as the Gloxinia. The
plants so wintered will, if shifted into 5-inch pots
in early spring, grow away freely and flower well.

Gesneras, too, are lovely flowers, the earliest
of which are now open. It is difficult to know,
at least in some cases, which to admire the most —
the beautiful marbled leaves or the spikes of
drooping, tubular-shaped blossoms. There is a

396

THE GARDEN.

[August 9, 1913.

wide range of colour in the flowers, but those of
an orange tint, such as in the variety Orange King,
which was given an award of merit three years
ago, gain, as a rule, the most admirers. H. P.

DUTCH HYACINTHS TO FLOWER
AT CHRISTMAS.

An Important Discovery.
Carnations and Lily of the Valley have long
since " looped the loop," or done the equivalent
acrobatic performance which in the floral world
corresponds to it. Now Dutch Hyacinths are
Irying their hand to see what they can do. For
the last year or two there has been a great shortage
in the supply of Roman Hyacinths from the South
of France. It was the Dutchman's opportunity.

In the course of my wanderings in Holland (for
to me Holland is a word confined to the gorgeously-
carpeted land where bulbs grow, and where, in the
true Dutch fashion of things being contrary to
the ordinary, the carpet is only laid down in spring
and cleaned for the rest of the year), I say, in the
course of my wanderings I found myself in the
ofiice of the most hospitable firm of Messrs. R. Van

I hear some English firms are taking it up. For
one, I believe the Busy " Bees" of Liverpool are
very sweet upon this process and want to make it
known to their British customers. 1 always
have had a warm corner in my heart for this little
people (A. K. B., the King Bee, must be 6 feet
or over !) ever since they put the photograph
' of an exquisite bowl of Feathered Hyacinths, which

der School and Sons of Hillegom. Prefatory in the flesh had done duty on my dining-room table
to a look at the Tulips I was shown some things | and as a picture in the pages of The Garden,
of great interest. One of them was the photograph 1 in their catalogue. There must be a " Bee "
which is reproduced herewith. " Come, come," \ everywhere, in Holland as well as in China. They
I said. " this is a bit of good. All this lot in bloom ! gather together the good things of the world, and

on December 15. Tell that to Mr. Jones" (the
aforesaid bulb representative of one of our great
horticultural firms was with me). However, I
spoke too soon. A photograph is not the same

then dispense them from Sealand or Mill Street.

Messrs. Barr also have some bulbs.

Now for the practical steps to be taken if »>«

want these advanced Hyacinths in December :
(i) Buy as soon as possible ;
the varieties on my list are
good ones for the purpose.
(2) Be sure you get these
specially-prepared bulbs. (3)
Pot before September 10 at
the very latest. (4) .Avoid
like poison, at any period
of their growth, any bottom-
heat. (5) Start in the dark
as usual, but in a comfort-
able atmosphere. (6) Keep
thera nice and warm when
growing. (7) When I tried
them I kept them too cool,
so I am going to find out
more about the exact tem-
perature they like, and with
the Editor's kind permission
a note will appear on the
subject either in next
week's issue or the one follow-
inp;. Joseph Jacob.

,SPF.CIALI,Y-TREATED

DUTCH HYACINTHS I'LOWERING ON DECEMBER I5 OF LAST YEAR.
PROBABLY TAKE THE PLACE OF ROMAN HYACINTHS."

THESE WILL

Few people outside the Dutch growersj^them-
selves realise the vast importance of the Hyacinth
trade to the capitalists and bulb-farmers of the
country. The sales for a long time have not been
what they were in former days. The Cinderella
of the bulb fields of a generation back has become
the Princess, and the proud sisters of old (Hyacinths
and early Tulips) have had their " noses put out
of joint." A radical operation, or rather a series
of smaller operations, was necessary to try to
effect a cure — prizes at the big Royal Horticul-
tural Society's Forced Bulb Show ; a tardy
acceptance of the " miniature " Hyacinth ; and
lastly, among the up-to-date men, such as
Tubergen and Van der Schoot, the " advanced "
cure.

as a newspaper. What it contains is correct.
All these were in flower when it said. Who the
inspired genius was who first hit upon the plan of
prematurely lifting and then artificially drying and
baking the bulbs I do not know (Was it Mr. Dames
of Lisse ?), but this much I do know. Thanks to
some man and his followers. Hyacinths can be so
prepared or advanced that with ordinary greenhouse
treatment they can be had in bloom in December.
Lady Derby, L'Innocence, Yellow Hammer,
Schotel. La Tour d'Auvergne, Grand Vedette,
Grand Monarque, General Pelissier, Linnaeus,
Grand Vainquer. Cornelia and Distinction lend
themselves especially to this treatment. The
gain is great ; not only a whiff of spring, but a peep
of spring in December.

HIPPEASTRUMS
FROM SEED.

Where it is desired to raise
Hippeastrums from seed,
those that flowered at about
the normal season will by now
be ripe f>r nearly so. The
question sometimes arises
whether it is better to sow
the seed at once or to keep
it until the spring. My experi-
ence is that, providing there
is a structure with a gentle
heat where a temperature
of 50° to 60° can be main-
tained during the winter,
the seed had better be sown
with as little delay as
possible. Pans about two inches deep are very
convenient for its reception. These should be
clean and effectually drained. A mixture of loam,
leaf-mould and sand passed through a sieve with a
one-third of an inch mesh is very suitable for the
seed, some of the roughest portions of the compost
being placed immediately over the crocks. The
surface of the soil being pressed down moderately
firm and made level, the seed snould be sown
thereon and covered with about a quarter of an
inch of soil. Gently watered, the seed germi-
nates quickly, so that by the end of the summer
or in early autumn the seedlings may be potted
singly in small pots. In this way they will by
February be ready to shift into pots 4 inches in
diameter. H.

August 9, 1913.J

THE GARDEN.

397

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

INTERMEDIATE, EAST LOTHIAN
AND BROMPTON STOCKS.

THESE are useful subjects for either
beds, borders or pots, while they are
highly prized as cut flowers, both for
their exquisite coloius and pleasing
fragrance. The Ten-week Stock is
a well-known and popular plant, and,
where occasional sowings are made, a grand
display is kept up tor several months. It is,
however, to the Intermediate, East Lothian
and Brompton Stocks that I would call particular
attention at the present time. They may be had
in separate colours, such as crimson, white, scarlet
and purple, or, for an amateur, a good mi.xed strain
would give, perhaps, the greater satisfaction, and,
if bought from a reliable firm, a large percentage
uf doubles, bright in colour, would be secured.

The East Lothians are dwarf and compact in
habit, producing immense spikes of bloom somewhat
resembling the Hyacinth. The Intermediates are
very tioriferous, and are employed on a large scale
for pot work, quantities being sent to Covent
Gardsn and other markets dm'ing the spring months.
The Bromptons form huge bushes when well
grown, and possess a robust constitution. Although
it has been stated that the plants quoted above
thrive best m the cooler parts of these islands,
good results can be obtained in the warmer regions,
especially if a full south aspect is not chosen.
Seeds may be sown either in June and July or m
[■'ebruary, the former for flowering the following
spruig and summer, and the latter for autiuun
flowering. If sown in Fvibruary, a little heat is
necessary, and the plants will require a gradual
hardening off prior to planting in the open ground.
The usual plan is to sow in June, July, or early
."August in any part of the garden which happens
lu be vacant, but the soil must be made fine, and,
il at all dry, a good soakmg with water is advisable.
When they have made three or four leaves they
should be transplanted into a cold frame or in
small pots, so that the frost can be excluded during
the wmter ; and in March they may be removed
to their permanent quarters. In some winters they
will live out in the open ground, but it is necessary
lor the soil to be well drained, for I think
'r.xcessive moisture at the root is more injurious
than frost, providing the plants are fairly dry at
the base.

Stocks succeed in almost any garden, but they
.ire worth taking a little trouble with, and, wherever
possible, the ground should be deeply dug and
liberally manured the previous autumn. Once
planted, further attention is hardly needed, except
keeping the surface stirred about with the hoe ;
and if the weather should prove exceptionally
dry, an occasional watering with weak liquid
manure will prove of considerable benefit. S.

RAISING PANSIES FROM SEEDS.

The Pansy is a grand border plant for the amateur
gardener to grow. In small gardens, where large
and especially tall-growing subjects are out of
place, or seem to be, dwarf ones, such as Pansies
and Violas, look very charming indeed. These
plants are equally beautiful ano suitable for growing
in the largest flower garden, too. They are much
favoured in Northern gardens, but I have seen as
fine displays in Southern gardens. It is a matter of
good culture, mainly. In one case whole beds
were filled with Pansies in as good condition as

any I have ever seen, both as regards health of
plant, quantity and quality of flower. The soil
was very sandy. Many seeds are sown in shallow
boxes. I certainly do not favour these, as the
soil in them so soon dries up, and, in order to main-
tain it in a moist state, very frequent watering is
necessary. Only in exceptional instances should
the seedlings be raised in boxes. It is much better
to sow the seeds in the open border, selecting one
in a cool position. There is ample space in the
open border, so ths seeds should be sown very
thinly indeed. When the yoimg seedlings have
plenty of space to develop, the seed leaves grow
to a large size, roots are formed freely and the rough
leaves grow strongly. The plants are thus given a
good chance in their early stages of growth, and it
is a greater pleasure to transplant them to nursery
beds than the puny specimens grown overcrowded
in a small box. Whether planted in their flowering
beds in the autumn or retained in prepared nursery
beds until spring, one transplanting in a young
stage will be sufficient. Drawn-up, weakly plants
bear small flowers on long, slender stems ; the
dwarf, border-raised seedlings have huge, well-
coloured ones on short, stout stems. Anyone may
raise Pansy plants and grow them fairly well with
ordinary care, but much care must be bestowed
on them if the very best results are to be obtained.
When in their summer quarters surface mulches
must be put on and faded flowers regularly removed ;
then the flowering season will be prolonged.
Neglected plant? quickly degenerate. G. G

GLOVER IN LAWNS.

I HAVE read with interest the references in recent
numbers of your paper to the subject of Clover in
lawns, and I venture to make some remarks based
on the experience of an agriculturist rather than that
of a gardener. Any of your readers who chance to
follow the transactions of the various agricultural
societies and colleges doubtless know that a vast
amoimt of experimental work is done to discover the
best means of renovating pastures. The subject is
full of difficulty, but, broadly speaking, success
or failure depends on whether one is able or not
to produce a free growth of white Clover. Now,
no gardener under any circumstances wishes
Clover on a tennis lawn. No gardener, again,
who has a first-class lawn wishes Clover. Neither
does any gardener who has a tolerably good lawn,
which he wishes to improve, desire Clover. How
to obtain that end is well known. Every spring
give a light dressing of nitrogenous manure.

But there are many gardeners who have
thoroughly bad lawns which they wish to improve.
To these I venture to commend the beneficial
effect of white Clover as a slow, but as the
only sure, means of bringing on the finer grasses,
which in a lawn, just as in a pasture, constitute
the test of excellence. If nitrogenous manures
are applied right away to a poor lawn, the coarse,
healthy grasses will benefit at once, while the
finer grasses, on account of their starved, imhealthy
condition, will benefit too late to escape being
crowded out.

I may perhaps be allowed to indicate the best-
known methods of encouraging Clover as well
as the finer grasses. In the first place, those
materials must be supplied which are essential
to both Clover and grass. These are lime and
phosphate. Basic slag contains both, and is a
truly marvellous manure. Unfortunately, it is
also the trickiest of all fertilisers. It works miracles
on some soils, while on others it is absolutely

worthless. Unless the gardener knows that slag
suits his land, he should not waste time on experi-
ments, but should apply lime in the form of slaked
lime-shells, and phosphate in the form of the most
finely-ground bone-flour he can get. The standard
dressing of bone-flour which is considered payable
in agriculture is half a ton per acre {equal to a
quarter of a pound per square yard). This will
endiae for from six to ten years, and must be ap-
plied in autumn. Of lime, double the above dressing
should be given, also in autumn. On heavy land
this may endure for ten years ; on light land for
very much less.

In the second place, the gardener will seek to
encourage Clover. Now, Clover hates nitrogen
and loves potash. One will, therefore, avoid the
former and give potash. Muriate of potash is
the easiest to apply, and the dressing is loz. per
yard, which is enough for very many years. All
these manures (lime, bone-flour and potash) may be
mixed and applied together, and all can be bought
in small quantities from a first-class firm which
caters for retail trade. I may warn the reader
that both lime and bone-flour are very powdery,
and that the work of application is not exactly
tidy. There is this to be said, however, that the
dressing is lasting, in contradistinction to nitro-
genous applications, which endtire for one season
only. Landowner.

GARDENS OF TO - DAY.

TREGOTHNAN, CORNWALL.

SITUATED about five miles from the
ancient town of Truro, and not far
from the South Coast, is Tregothuau,
the beautiful seat of Lord Falmouth,
by whose kind permission we are enabled
to place before our readers a few par-
ticulars of the interesting, and in many ways
unique, gardens there. It was during the early
days of April when we were privileged to visit
Tregothnan, a time when the gardens of Cornwall
are usually regarded as of the greatest interest,
because the feature of most, and Tregothnan in
particular, is the rich collection of choice flowering
and coniferous trees and shrubs, which in less-
favoured parts of the British Isles need the pro-
tection of a glass-house to rear them successfully.
In writing of Cornish gardens it is necessary to
make this point quite clear.

The Rhododendrons are a great feature in
many Cornish gardens, where their flowers usually
open at least a month in advance of those of the
same varieties near London. At Tregothnan
several of the walks, and also the main carriage
drive, are bordered with enormous Rhododen-
drons, the massive trunks of many testifying to
their great age and the genial climate of the district.
In one part of the grounds is a superb plant of
Rhododendron Falconeri, a perfect specimen o£
its kind, standing over twenty feet high and
measuring as much in diameter, the brown stems
and bold leaves creating a picture of rare beauty
even though flowers were absent. Chinese Rhodo-
dendrons, including most of the newest varieties,
are grown on an extensive scale ; and we were
specially interested in a fine plant of R. Keysii,
the small, coral red flowers of which are clustered
together much in the same way as are those of
an Aloe.

The House Walls. — Naturally, in a garden such
as this, one expects to find the walls of the mansion

398

THE GARDEN.

[August 9, 1913.

Choice Shrubs
and Trees. — These

abound on every
hand at Tregothnan,
and in an article of
this description it is
impossible to mention
anything lilie all the
interesting and beau-
tiful plants that we
saw. In the shrub
border running from
the east side of the
mansion we saw a
magnificent plant,
about six feet high, of
the crimson-fiowered
Leptosp erraum
scoparium NichoUii,
a species which
secured the cup
offered for the best
new plant at the In-
ternational Show at
Chelsea last year. It
will be news to many
of our readers to
learn that a plant of
such size exists in
this country. Keep-
ing it company were
.1 goodly host of rare
shrubs, including
Driniys Winter!, Em-
bothrium coccinenm,
Buddleia ColviUei,
F e i j o a sellowiana,
Crinodendro n
Hookeri and Clian-
thus puniceus. In
another part of the
gardens we found a
plant of Berberis
Wilsonii, 5 feet in
diameter, keeping
put to good use, and in such a favourable climate company with large trees of the Blue Gum, Euca-
to find many rare and choice thnigs nestling under lyptus globulus, Pittosporums, and the so-called
the shelter that the walls afford. On the south front Mimosa, Acacia dealbata, which sends up suckers
we found such plants as Prostranthera rotundifolia yards away from its main stem. In another
fuUy bejewelled with its dainty
little blue flowers, Cytisus fragrans.
Clematis indivisa (a plant which we
also found scrambling over a tall

Oak tree in another part of the gar-
den), Calceolaria violacea, Sollya

heterophylla, and in the border a

plant of Aloe serratifolia in full

flower. On the east side such plants

as Acacia riceana and Camellias

thrive amazingly, imparting to the

surroundings quite a tropical appear-
ance. Reverting to the south front,

the terrace is supported by a low

retaining wall, part of which is shown

in the accompanying illustration.

Under the shelter of this such

plants as Acacia verticillata, Correas,

Boronias heterophylla and mega-
stigma, and Coronilla glauca find ,<

happy home, while in front of it w<-

foimd one of the most charmiiif^

spring borders that we have ever

been privileged to see, and part ul

which is shown m the accompanying

illustration.

\ BEAUTIFUL SPRING BORDER AT TREGOTHNAN. PREP.\RATIONS
FOR A BORDER OF THIS KIND MUST SOON BE COMMENCED.

direction Cytisus proliferus was flourishing, its
white and rose coloured flowers being produced
freely.

Palms, Tree Ferns and Dracaenas.— The
hardy Palm, Trachycarpus or ChamiErops excelsa,
abomids in the gardens at Tregothnan, and this,
together with large, tree-like examples of Drac£ena
indivisa and, in some of the woodland glades,
the Tree Fern, Dicksonia antarctica, impart to
the gardens a subtropical appearance that is quite
characteristic of Cornish gardens. The Palm
mentioned might certainly be grown in many
sheltered gardens in the London district, and it
is possible that the Dracaena would also thrive
if protected in the early stages of its career, and
we hope the illustration of this, which shows the
plants bordering the broad walk leading from a
dainty little summer-house that faces south, will
induce some at least of our readers to try them. The
walk shown in the illustration leads down towards
the water garden, through a spacious, rolling lawn,
in which are beds filled with Azaleas and, at the
bottom, two of the finest beds of a distinct variety
of the Mediterranean Heath, Erica mediterranea,
that we have ever had the pleasure of seeing.
The head-gardener, Mr. Andrews, told us that
he had raised all the plants that we saw in the
beds. It has an erect, columnar habit, and flowers
with almost embarrassing freedom. From these
beds one could have cut armfuls of flowering
sprays without them ever being missed, and the
air for yards around was permeated with a perfume
that one rarely encounters outside a highland
moor. The view from the summer-house, at the
top of the path shown in the accompanying illus-
tration, is of rare beauty, looking as it does over
miles of undulating, well-wooded country.

The Water Garden. — This is a charming feature
at Tregothnan, and one that its owner is justly
proud of. Situated in a large, natural depression
and well surrounded by tall trees, the three placid
pools, each on different levels and all connected
by miniature cascades, provide a peaceful and
delightful home for all kinds of aquatic plants.
Here the happy visitor may enjoy, to the music
of babbling water and sighing Bamboos, such
plants as Primulas pulverulenta and kewensis,
Water Lilies and Cape Pondweed, Gunneras,
the young, sword-like foliage of many'Irises, and,

TUli liKO-\l> WALK .\ 1 IKI-.C.oi ll.\ a:

Willi lALI. I'LAM.-^ 01 DK.AC.-LNA INUIVI.SA iii\ l-,A<. H ,>llil-,.

August 9, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

399

if he be observant, under the spray of the largest
cascade that gem of the Filmy Ferns, Todea
superba. Even so early in the year this water
garden was a peaceful place of great charm ;
but later in the summer, when the numerous and
rare plants have fully developed, it would be
even more beautiful and interesting.
Primroses in the Woodland. — The counties of

Devon and Cornwall are, of course, famed the
whole world over for their Primroses, which seem
to thrive in any nook or comer tliat provides
lodgment for a square inch of soil. Even in the
gullies of the roadside we found them flowering
happily, but it was in the woodland glades at
Tregothnan that we had an optical feast of these
beautiful natives which will live long and pleasantly
in our mind. Broad stretches of these, flinging
themselves in riotous profusion under the tall
Beeches that stood like sentinels over
them, seemed as though Nature her-
self had designed it all, placing there
the giants of the vegetable world to
give shade and shelter to their lowl>'
brethren, and also to the more
brilliant, though none the less pleas-
ing, Bluebells that were to follow
later.

Camellias. — We have purposely
deferred mention of these until the
last, because in a way they are a
special feature of Tregothnan. In
many parts of the grounds one finds
large plants of robust appearance,
but it is on the walls of the stables
where the most wonderful plants m
probably the whole of the British
Isles are to be found. These walls are
about thirty feet high, and extend for
about fifty yards, the whole surface
being completely covered by Camel-
lias, which were planted many years
ago. Last year all these plants
flowered with considerable freedom,
and the sight at that time can be more
easily imagined than described. Even
when not in flower the handsome,
dark green, glossy foliage has a quiet
beauty of its own that Ivy, or, indeed,
any other evergreen suitable for the
purpose, does not possess. Such, then,
are the gardens at Tregothnan ; a
genial home for all that is good,
beautiful and interesting in plant-life,
and much of which might, with a
little perseverance, be grown out-

for its success, but it is now generally known
that it can be grown on the flat surface in the
open, providing, as already mentioned, the plant is
not too much exposed. Others worthy of culti-
vation are alba and rosea, two beautiful forms of
R. pyrenaica, and R. serbica and its charming
variety Nathalice. They are all easily raised from
seeds, which should be sown in pots as soon as
ripe, or by the leaves, which should be broken off
close to the plant and the footstalk inserted into
raoist, sandy peat and kept close. F. G. Preston.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

THE MOCK ORANGES.

The various kinds of Philadelphus or Mock Orange
form a vahiahle group of Jniie-flowering shrubs.

Lemoinei group, require regular pruning. This
must be done about the end of June, or as soon
as the flowers fade, and pruning should consist
of the removal of all the old flowering wood, cutting
it back close to the ground should there appear
to be plenty of young shoots growing from the
rootstock, or, if young shoots are scarce there,
to the strongest shoot appearing from the flowering
wood. The object in view is the production of
long, well-ripened wood, which if properly matured
will blossom from end to end during the following
year.

Propagation. — This is not difficult, for if cuttings
of young shoots 3 inches to 4 inches long, with a
slight heel of old wood, are taken during late
June or early July and inserted in sandy soil in
a close and slightly warm frame, roots are formed
in the course of a few weeks. Some people insert

A BE.^UTIFUL COLONY OF THE ROSETTE MULLEIN, A GOOD PLANT FOR .\ SH.^DED ROCK GARDE.V.

doors in sheltered gardens on the

West Coast of England, Southern Scotland and the majority of which are quite suitable for general

the coast of Wales

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

THE

T

planting throughout the country. A few are
tender, but their exclusion need not have any
serious effect upon the general usefulness of the
group, for the perfectly hardy sorts are sufficiently
numerous and varied in habit to offer a wide
choice to the most fastidious person. Moreover,
they are among the easiest of shrubs to cultivate.

ROSETTE MULLEIN.

(Ramo.s-di.\ pyrenaica.)
HIS beautiful Rosette Mullein has been j and, given moderately good soil, they occasion
quite a favourite in the rockery for many ■ little fiu-ther trouble once they become established,
years, and at the present time a rock I A surface-dressing of well-decayed manure, how-
garden is not complete without it. It is ever, every second year is attended by good results,

this being particularly necessary in the instance
of the dwarf kinds, which are hard pruned each
spring.

Pruning. — Large-growing species and varieties
require very little pruning other than an occasional
thinning out of a little of the older wood ; but the
dwarf kinds, more especially the hybrids of the

perfectly hardy, requiring to be grown
between the stones in a light, well-
drained, damp, peaty soil, but on no account
exposed to full sunshine, which is detrimental,
causing the plant to shrivel and die. It was
thought by many at one time that a more or less
vertical wall in the shade was absolutely essential

cuttings of fuily-niatured wood, 9 inches to
12 inches in length, in outdoor borders during
late autumn or winter, but the earlier cuttings
are usually the more satisfactory.

.\bout a score of species have been introduced,
but about half-a-dozen, in addition to numerous
hybrids, only are generally grown. Some of them
are natives of the United States, others are found
in China and Japan, while one or two have been
collected in other ."Asiatic countries. The best
for general purposes are the following :

P. coronarius, the common Mock Orange, or
Syringa, is a widely-distributed Asiatic shrub.
Under normal conditions it is met with from
8 feet to r5 feet in height, with a considerable
spread, and bears large white or creamy coloured
flowers freely. There are several varieties, but
they are, as a whole, inferior to the type. Dianthi-
florus plenus and flore pleno are forms with double

400

THE GARDEN.

[August 9, 1913.

flowers ; foliis argenteo-variegatis has silver
variegated leaves ; foliis aureis bears golden leaves,
which are pretty in the early stages, but lose their
colour early in the summer ; and nanus is of dwarf
growth. P. tomentosus is sometimes looked upon
as a distinct species, and is distinguished from
P. coronarius by its more hairy character.

P. grandiflorus is an exceptionally line plant
from the Southern United States. Of vigorous
growth, it sometimes exceeds twenty feet in height,
while it often has a very wide spread. The flowers
are white, shapely and quite 2 inches across,
with a similar fragrance to that of the Asiatic
species. Two well-marked varieties may be
procured — floribtindus, which blooms with remark-
■ able freedom, and laxus, a variety of somewhat
looser growth than the others, but equally
floriferous.

P. inodorus, another Southern
shrub, is hardly so useful as the
species previously referred to, but
it may be planted in gardens where
the owner objects to the powerful
scent of other species, for its flowers
have little, if any, fragrance.

P. Lewisii is a native of Western
North America, and it forms a
large, shapely bush 12 feet higli
and as far through. At its best ii
is very showy, for the clear white
flowers appear in profusion ; but,
unfortunately, it cannot be relied
upon to blossom well each year.

P. moxicanus is only suitabl'- for
the warmer parts of the country,
for it is somewhat tender. A native
of Mexico, it forms a shrub 5 feet or
5 feet high and bears large white
flowers of exquisite shape and
fragrance.

P. microphyllus is the dwarf of
the genus. Mature plants are about
two feet in height, and are com-
posed of a mass of slender, wiry
branches bearing small, ovate,
greyish leaves. The white flowers
are deliciously fragrant, and are
about three-quarters of an inch
across. It is as a parent, however,
that its value has been most
known, for, crossed with P. coro-
narius, it was the means of P.
Lemoinei being raised. The advent
of that plant saw one of the best
flowering shrubs of modern times
put upon the market, and in
any collection of twelve select
flowering shrubs it is probable
that P. Lemoinei or its variety erectus would find
a place. Left to their own devices, the Lemoinei
type form bushes 4 feet high ; but it is usual to
prune them hard each year and retain only young
shoots. By this means plants 2^ feet to 3 feet
high are obtained, which blossom profusely, the
flowers having the delightful fragrance which is
characteristic of P. microphyllus. There are
several of these dwarf kinds, some having single,
others double, flowers. Of the set, perhaps P.
Lemoinei erectus is the most useful ; but Avalanche,
with very large flowers ; Boule d' Argent, with
double blossoms ; Fantaisie, with large, white,
flattish flowers, with a shade of rose in the centre ;
Gerbe de Neige, Candelabre, Mont Blanc, Pavilion
Blanc, Rosace, a variety with semi-double flowers
between 2 inches and 3 inches across ; Virginal,

a double-flowered form ; and purpureo-maculatus
are among the best. The last named is conspicuous
by reason of its white, fragrant flowers having
purplish centres. There are numerous other
forms which might be used, but those mentioned
will be found sufficient for most gardens. D.

THE ROSE

GARDEN.

ROSE

PREPARING SOIL FOR
GARDENS.

HE time for laying out new or renovating
old Rose gardens is fast approaching,
and I would suggest that more than
usual care be bestowed upon this all-
important subject. So much depends
upon the preparation of ground and
United States the proposed forms of beds and borders, also more

T

that Roses are as much grown in our crowded
suburbs as any one other subject, now that we have
such an improved choice to select from. Not only
are they freer in blooming, but that many of
our very choicest can be grown is well proved
by the numerous superb stands so often found in
the local classes, both in the metropolis and the
largest and most thickly-populated provincial
towns. It has often been a source of surprise to
me to find such grand flowers at the provincial
exhibitions of the National Rose Society as we
almost always do. The classes for Roses grown
within a radius of six, eight and ten miles of
Charing Cross must come from any but the pure
country atmospheres formerly considered indis-
pensable. It is a matter of preparation and a
judicious selection of varieties. In both cases
much depends upon local circumstances ; nor is
there need for so much expensive labour in soil
preparation as many apparently
think. A little common sense
directed towards drainage and the
thorough overhauling and improve-
ment of one's subsoil will go far
towards success — may, perhaps,
make all the difference between
success and failure. So often the
best of our suburban soils have been
transferred before building opera-
tions take place. If this is not the
case, they are frequently buried
under the worst possible material in
the matter of foundation excava-
tions, together with the unconscion-
able dumping down of builders' re-
fuse in the shape of spare cement,
glass, old paint refuse and heaps of
other matter detrimental to all forms
of plant-life ; so by all means take
the first opportunity of thoroughly
overhauling the soil to a depth of
3 feet at the very lowest, should
tliere be the least doubt of its con-
stituents. This complete moving
will do much good in itself, and
there could be no better time to
ascertain what the ground is defi-
cient of and to add or tak'. away
accordingly. I do not mean to say
a lot upon this subject, but it is such
a pity to miss the opportunity of a
more favourable start than many
secure, all the more so when the
veriest tyro must realise the value of
a properly-prepared basis. A. P.

ROSE CYNTHI.\ FORDE, A BEAUTIFUL FREE- FLOWERING V.^RIETY
FOR GARDEN DECOR.ATION.

care in the selection of varieties that are best
suited to each spot and purpose, that one may
well wonder at the little forethought so often i
displayed. Let us bear in mind that we shall
never have a better time for thoroughly preparing
the soil by deep digging, manuring and any neces-
sary drainage. Such a grand opportunity cannot
occur again, and it is folly not to take full advantage
of it.

That Roses can be successfully grown in a large
and varied number of places and soils is well attested
by the grand blooms invariably seen at any repre-
sentative exhibition of our national flower, for
do not these come from all over the kingdom ?
Nor is it so absolutely necessary to have the pure
atmosphere of country life, as was thought for a
long time. Indeed, I fancy one may safely state

ROSE CYNTHIA FORDE.

.Among garden Roses of com-
paratively recent introduction this variety must
take a prominent position, owing to the
charming colour and form of the flowers,
its vigorous branching habit and freedom of
flowering. Raised by Mr. Hugh Dickson in
rgog, it has quickly come to the front in many
gardens. Although the blooms are rather flat,
they are of exquisite form, as will be seen in the
accompanying illustration. The plant makes a
shapely, branching bush, and the blooms, which are
bright rose pink in colour, are borne in clusters.
Notwithstanding this, they are of largt size, and
there is no necessity to disbud, as many are
so apt to do indiscriminately. At shows where
vases of garden Roses are asked for, this variety
would make a very telling bunch, as its long stems
would enable the exhibitor to arrange it tastefully.

August 9, 1013.]

THE GARDEN.

401

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO FORCE EARLY BULBS IN POTS, PANS AND BOXES.

THE forcing of plants that are suitable
for the purpose is always very interest-
ing work, but the forcing of bulbs is
fascinating as well, particularly to the
beginner. In a very short time
beautiful leaves and lovely, fragrant
flowers are obtained from dry, hard bulbs simply
by putting them in soil and subjecting them to
moisture and temperate heat. Some who would
like to force various kinds of bulbs arc deterred
from doing so by want of confidence m themselves,
and because they think it is absolutely necessary
to be able to command a high temperature.

The SoiL — An old compost is better than a new
one, and if it has been mixed and kept in an open
shed for two months prior to being used, it will
be more suitable still. Fibrous turf, which has been
stacked for two or three months, and sweet leaf-
soil, a little more than half-rotted, should be used
in equal quantities. To a bushel of the combined
parts named add a 7-inch potful of sand, and put
a handful of well-rotted manure in the bottom of
each pot on the rougher portion used to form a
part of the drainage, and before any of the general
compost is put in. The roots of the bulbs \vill
benefit from the manure in due course ; but it is
not wise to mix the manure with the soil generally.
nor to so place it that the bulbs come in direct
contact with it.

Potting and Boxing the Bulbs.— It is bad
policy to place too many bulbs in a pot. Three
Roman Hyacinths in a 5-inch and four in a 6J-inch
pot will be quite sufficient. Bulbs of Narcissus
Poeticus and N. Paper White may be put in close
enough together to allow of the fingers being
inserted between them. Tulips and Frcesias
should be potted in a similar way. When boxes
less than five inches deep are used for Tulips and
Narcissi, then i inch more space between the bulbs

HOW TO POT BULBS OF D.\FFODILS, TULIPS AND ROMAN HYACINTHS I-OR FORCING.

should be allowed. All pots and pans must be
clean and dry, especi.illy the insides. Fig. A :
No. I shows a Narcissus bulb of good size, and
No. 2 how the bulbs should be potted, with the
crowns aboiit three inches below the surface of the
soil. No. 3 denotes a Tulip bulb, and No. 4 the right

THE BULBS MAY ALSO BE GROWN IN BOXES. ALL MUST BE PLUNGED TN ASHES OR
SAND AFTER POTTING OR BOXING.

way to place the bulbs in a pot or pan with the
crowns just visible above the soil. Nos. 5 and 6
show a Roman Hyacinth bulb and the right way to
pot it respectively. With regard to Freesias, it is
very important that the largest and firmost bulbs
be potted. Small specimens, such as the one shown
at No. 7, would only produce amass of " grass," but
no flowers. The one shown at No. 8 is the right
kind to pot, as 95 per cent, of bulbs such as this will
bear flower-stems. In every case pot pretty firmly,
and burj' the Freesia bulbs the same as those of
the Narcissi. Fig. B : At No. r a box for bulbs is
j shown, No. 2 a Tulip and No. 3 a Narcissus bulb, and
I the right way to box each. Bury the pots or boxes
I under ashes — old ones, not new ones fresh from
the furnace — sand or common soil. No. 4 denotes
the pots containing the bulbs, and No. 5 the empty,
inverted pots put on to protect the new growth
from the pressure of the covering material.
No. 6 shows an imcovered bulb pot. The position
may be an open one or against a fence or wall,
as shown at No. 7. When the new growth has
advanced as much as shown at No. 8, remove the
pots from the ashes. Sometimes it is necessary
to transplant the growing bulbs from boxes, and
make up pots of them for special purposos. The
right way to do this is shown at No. 9. No. ro
denotes the drainage and rough compost, No. 11
the finer portion, and No. 12 the way to place the
bulb and surround it with soil. No. 13 shows how
to fix the stake for supporting a Hyacinth spike
without damaging the bulb. No. 14. When re-
moved from the ashes keep the bulbs in a cool
frame for a short time, and transfer them to the
greenhouse as required. From the time the flower-
stems show plainly, give water more freely and also
feed the plants. G. G.

402

THE GARDEN.

[August 9, i()i3.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Violets. — Continue to keep these well hoed
and watered when necessary, keeping an eye
on the under side of the foliage so that spider does
not get a footing. All runners should be removed
as soon as they appear, as if these are allowed to
develop they will considerably weaken the parent
plant.

Annuals. — Some of the early-blooming annuals,
such as Shirley Poppies, Clarkias, Candytuft and
Viscarias, will be going out of flower, and rather
than leave them to make the borders look untidy,
they should be cleared out at once. Sunflowers,
both large and small, are now making a good show,
and to prevent damage by wind, a stake or stakes
should, where necessary, be put to them.

Asters generally are not so good this season,
owing, no doubt, to the serious drought we
experienced at the time of planting out. Ostrich
Plume, Comet and sinensis are all varieties that
are grand for cutting. Sutton's Fire King is
exceptionally good as an edging to a border, while
as a bedder this firm's Pink Beauty is hard to
beat, it being quite pyramidal in form and of a
pleasing colour ; height about eighteen inches.

The Rose Garden.
Climbing Polyantha Roses. — By this date

most of the Polyanthas will have gone out of bloom,
and shoidd be pruned forthwith. Where the
young growths are likely to prove of sufficient
length to cover the pillars or arches, all the old
wood may be cut out right to the base where the
young growths spring from ; but where a greater
length is desired, two or three of the best two year
old growths must be retained for extension, just
cutting the flowering growths to a wood-bud.
Electra, Tea Rambler and one or two other early-
flowering Roses that were pruned in mid-July
are now growing strongly, thus giving testimony
to the good of early pruning or thinning. Many
of the wichuraianas, such as Alberic Barbier,
Leontine Gervais, Gardenia, Sylvia, Rta^ Andr6
and others, should not be pruned just now on
account of their foliage, which will continue to
look bright and effective till the autumn. Dorothy
Perkins and Hiawatha, though wichuraianas,
are not so showy in the foliage ; hence they may
be pruned as soon as blooming is finished.

Budded Stocks. — Standards and early-budded
dwarfs should have the ties loosened, or, as the
stocks swell, the matting is apt to cut into the
wood.

Mildew. — Where this is troublesome, the plants
should be syringed weekly with sulphide of potas-
sium, half an ounce to a gallon of water, or the
autumn crop of bloum will not be of much use.

Plants Under Glass.

Roman Hyacinths. — To secure early blooms
Roman Hy.icniths should be potted up at once,
or at least as soon as they are received from the
nurseryman. For cutting purposes boxes will
do as well as pots, though, where they are required
as pot plants, 4i-nich and 6-inch pots are desirable.

Paper-White Narcissi. — These also should be

potted up as soon as received, it being quite essential
to get them well rooted before introducing them
to heat.

Freesia refracta alba. — Part of the stock of
this sweetly-scented bulbous plant should also be
potted, reserving the others for late batches.
Four and a-half inch pots are the most useful,
with about seven or eight bulbs in each pot. A
moderately light, rich compost suits them well,
and after potting and watering in they may be
placed in a frame, putting the lights on only in
the event of very wet weather, though to keep
the pots from drying they may be covered with
an old mat or two, or a light sprinkling of leaf-
soil, till the growths begin to push, when they
must have all the light and air possible.

Arum Lilies. — If wanted for decorative pur-
poses, the best of the tubers should be potted singly
in 6-inch pots, while for cut flowers they may be
potted several in a pot, according to its size.
A good, rich compost should be used, con-
sisting of loam, short, well-rotted manure and

sand. Pot firmly, and place them in a frame
or a semi-sheltered position out of doors where
they can be carefully watered till growth commences.

The Kitchen Garden.

Late Peas that may be developing mildew
should be sprayed with a weak solution of sulphide
of potassium about once a week, and if the
weather continues dry, a good watering should be
given. A good douche overhead as watering
proceeds will also tend to keep them growing
freely.

Celery. — After a really good watering and feeding,
all early Celery should be partially earthed-up.
Anv decaying leaves and side growths should be
taken off before tying, which should be done
before the soil is brought up to the plants, cutting
the matting again as the soil is made firm around
them, the ties, if left, sometimes tending to deform
the sticks.

Silver-Skinned Onions should be moved out of
tlie soil a little as soon as the tops show signs of
withering. These subjects are not required as
large as one can get them, so it is as well to hasten
their ripening as much as possible.

Fruits Under Glass.

Melons that are now setting their fruit should
be carefully looked after, and wherever possible
three or four fruits should be set on each plant.
Where only one or two fruits are set on these late
plants, they are apt to get unduly large, and do
not ripen so well or get so good a flavour as the
smaller fruit. From now onwards there is not
quite the vigour in the plants that is seen in the
spring, so that great care must be exercised both
in the watering and feeding.

Strawberries. — Perpetual-fruiting Strawberries
intended for autumn fruiting under glass may
now be allowed to develop their flower-trusses,
and if a good airy house is available, they may
be placed in this. Well spray between the
plants so that spider does not develop, or the crop
will be ruined, and as soon as the fruits are nicely
set. a dressing of Le Fruitier may be given to
swell them. Thomas Stevenson.

(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wohtirn Place Gardens, Addlcslone. Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Daffodils. — Everyone should have some of the
older and cheaper varieties, such as the following;
Trumpets — Emperor, Glory of Leiden, Mme. de
Graaff, Mme. Plemp, Weardale Perfection, with
their bicolor varieties, Empress, Horsfieldii and
maximus ; Mock Narcissus — Barri conspicuus,
Eggs and Bacon, Sir Watkin and Minnie Hume ;
Poeticus — Burbidgei, John Bain and poetarum.
-Among more recent introductions the following
moderate-priced varieties can be recommended :
Trumpets — Fairv, Golden Bell, Hamlet, Lord
Roberts, Master" of Balliol and Monarch ; whites —
."^lice Knights and Lady Audrey ; bicolors —
Glory of Noordwijk and Trewhiddle Bicolor ;
Mock Narcissus — Homespun, Beacon, Circlet, Eye-
bright, Oriflamme and Seagull ; P.^eticus — Bar-
carolle and Virgil.

Propagating Pansies and Violas. — September
is probably the best month tor propagating bedding
Violas, biit Pansies and exhibition Violas should
be propagated this month. Cuttings will strike quite
well in the open behind a wall or hedge, and if
a frame is used it should face north. For these
it will be more convenient to use boxes.

Propagating Bedding Plants. — A few varieties
of bedding plants should be propagated this month.
These include Heliotropes, Fuchsias, Iresines,
Verbenas and a few others. A mild hot-bed should
be prepared and allowed to cool down before placing
the cuttings on it, and those who possess a spent
hot-bed from the spring operations would do well
to utilise it. Keep close during the day, but
admit a chink of air overnight.

The Rock Garden.

Pricking Off Seedlings. — Where sowings of
Dianthuses, Campanulas, &c., wore made in May or
June, the resulting seedlings will now be ready for

pricking off. Sandy loam will suit the majority,
but lovers of peat or lime must have their require-
ments met. In all cases it is better to avoid a
rich soil. Boxes or pans will be found the most
convenient, as a rule ; but extra valuable plants
had better be potted in 2i-inch pots, and the pots
plunged in some open material, such as Cocoanut
fibre. Keep rather close for a week after the
operation, and then increase the ventilation by
degrees.

The Rose Garden.

Pinching Shoots. — This requires attention
throughout the growing season, and as the season
advances the need for it rather increases, as at this
period many varieties, especially those with a
vigorous habit, such as J. B. Clarji, Hugh Dickson
and Mme. Abel Chatenay, are apt to send up one
or two extra vigorous shoots, to the detriment of
the others. If the points of these are pinched out.
it will check them for the rest of the season, and
thus equalise the flow of sap.

Mildew is often persistent during this month,
and must be checked by sulphur in some form.

Plants Under Glass.

Cyclamens. — Young plants which are the result
of seed sown last August will now be ready for the
final potting, and, generally speaking, 6-inch pots
will be suitable. A mixture of equal parts of
turfy loam, good leaf-mould and sand will be found
suitable if a proportion of cow-manure and guano
or other similar fertiliser is added. Use the com-
post in a rather rough state and pot rather loosely.
Replace in the frame and continue to sprinkle
overhead twice a day for ten days or -so, after
which this attention should be discontinued. Give
abundance of light, but shade from midday sun
(or a few weeks yet.

Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — As the pots get

filled with roots, mild and frequent feeding should
commence. Attend to staking and tying as growth
adv;mces. Vaporise on the first appearance of
thrip.

Fruits Under Glass.

Figs. — Trees on which a second crop of fruit is
swelling must have the assistance of some fairly
strong liquid manure, and care must be taken
that they are not allowed to suffer for lack of
water. Maintain a moist atmosphere and a brisk
temperature until the fruits begin to ripen, when
It should be slightly reduced and rather more
ventilation given.

Melons. — Where the crop has been gathered
Mid no second crop planted, the soil should be
cleared away and the house in every part
he thoroughly cleansed for the reception of such
subjects as Salvia splendens, Begonia Gloire de
Lorraine, or Cyclamens, as the case may be.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Trapping Wasps. — As fruits ripen, wasps will
lie ready to pounce upon them, and unless they are
destroyed they will work much harm. I saw a
very ingenious and apparently efficacious wasp
trap this season, but it is not on the market yet.
Numbers, however, can be lured to their doom
by placing some jam and sugar with a proportion
of water in narrow-mouthed jars, which should be
placed near the fruit trees. A look-out should
also be kept for nests, and when found they should
be promptly destroyed. Hanging nests can be
demolished by means of a torch formed of "waste "
or rag tied on the end of a cane and saturated with
petroleum. Those in the ground should have tar
poured into them. The work must be done late
in the evening.

The Vegetable Garden.

Earthing-Up Celery. — The main crop will
now be fit for a first earthing-up. As suggested
in the calendar a few weeks ago, it is worth while
tyingupth; plants with raffia first. See that all side
growths are removed.

Spinach. — Towards the end of next week a
good sowing of Spinach should be made on a
south border for spring use. I find that a summer
variety, such as Victoria Round, succeeds as well
as the Prickly Spinach.

Sowing Cabbages. — Make a sowing of three
tvpes for spring planting, say, Ellam's Early,
Early York and Winningstadt.

Charles Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens. Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

Au(;usT g, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

403

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

Carnation Rosy Morn. — This is one of the
handsomest border Carnations we have seen,
though deep cerise, we think, most accurately
describes the very remarkable tone of colouring.
It is a pure self-coloured flower, with thick petals
and strong supporting stems. From Mr. J.
Douglas, Great Bookham.

Sutton's Red Sunflower. — This is the name
by which it is hoped to popularise what is un-
doubtedly a great garden annual. The predomi-
nant colour is crimson and brown, the tips of the
florets golden. The flower-heads are 6 inches to
8 inches across. From Messrs. Sutton and Sons,
Reading.

Rose Annie Crawford. — This is reputed to be

a seedling from C.iptain Hayward and Mrs. Sand-
ford. It is of a shade of pink akin to Mrs. J. Laing,
but fully twice its size. It is really a giant. From
Mr. R. Hammond, Grovi-lands, Burgess Hill,
Sussex.

Sweet Pea King White.— A very handsome
pure wliite varietv.

Sweet Pea Debbie's Lavender.— A delightful

tone of lavender. Both from Messrs. Dobbie
and Co,, Edinburgh.

DendromecoD rigidum. — A glorious golden
Poppywort from California, not new, but very
choice. In sheltered gardens it is hardy, but
in others may require the protection of a wall
or even cool greenhouse. From Sir Trevor
Lawrence, Bart.

Nymphsea Colossea. — The name is suggestive
of a giant flower, and this is the fact. Indeed,
we believe it is the largest variety extant. The
colour is white, the base of the flower being suffused
with a delightful shade of pink. The anthers are
golden.

Nymphaea Escarboncle.— The colour is the
deepest crimson, and in this respect surpasses
all comers. These were shown by Mr. Leopold
de Rothschild. Gunnersbury House (gardener,
Mr. J. Hudson).

Spiraea (Sorbaria) arborea grandis. — At first
sight this bears resemblance to S. lindleyana,
though the creamy plumes of flowers are stronger
and more erect. It should make a splendid plant
ui isolation. From the Hon. Vicary Gibbs,
Elstree.

Clematis tangutica obtusiuscula. — A pretty
yellow-flowered form. The flowers are drooping
and produced solitary on the branches. From
Mr. F. C. Stem, Goring-by-Sea.

Gloxinia Veitch's Strain.— A very remarkable
strain of these popular greenhouse flowers, from
seeds sown in January last, was staged. It was
representative of almost every shade of colour
and of the highest merit. From Messrs. James
Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea.

All the foregoing were shown before the Royal
Horticultural Society on the 29th ult., when each
received an award of merit.

Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora is one of

the comparatively few good hardy shrubs that
flower freely in August. It makes a neat bush
some three feet or rather more high, each stout
growth being surmounted by a large head of
creamy white flowers. For filUng a large lawn
bed this Hydrangea would be excellent.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS— r/zc Editor intends to
make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object vi.ll make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should he on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.

FLOWER GARDEN.

ABOUT IRISES (W. C. ^.).— Yes, the Iris is attacked
by the Iris leaf-spot disease, dne to the fuDgus Hetero-
sporium tiracile. Spraying with Bordeaux mixtxire or
with ammoniacal copper carbonate acts as a check to
the spread of the fungus, but we find the best thing to do
is to apply lime liberally to the soil before the Irises are
planted. A very good time to transplant or to propa-
gate Irises is late June or early July, just as the new roots
are being formed from the new growths,

FLOWER BORDER AND YEW HEDGE {M. E. M.).—
Tn making your herbaceous border near a Yew hedge
it will not be advisable to place the plants very close
to the hedge, for on the one hand the root^ of the hedge
will interfere with the herbaceous plants, and on the other
hand the herbaceous plants will injure the lower part
of tl)C hedge. If possible, it would be well to leave a space
of at least 3 feet between the foot of the hedge and the
herbaceous plants. Iberis scmpervirens will continue to
grow and flower for many years. AW the attention it
requires is the cutting away of old flower-heada as soon
as the flowers fade. Cheiranthus Dillonii often lasts
two or three years in f;:ood condition, but it is advisable
to renew it frequently.

SCABIOSA CAUCASICA FAILING (E. P.). — iThe
remedy is with the soil. In heavy soils this fine subject
frequently refuses to root at all, but ramifies freely in
lighter soils and prows and fiowers abundantly. In your
case, if you desire continued success, you will have to
lighten and improve the soil and raise seedlings periodically,
planting t hem out in spring. Such good plants are
worth much to make them a success, for we certainly
have not too much of blue or mauve in the garden at
any time. In addition to making the soil lighter, add
lime freely to the soil six months in advance. "When
incorporated with the soil, the lime has the effect of
precipitating the superfluous water to a lower level. In
this way it is warmed, aerated and drained as by a
single action. In any case yoo should go on till yon
succeed, since seeds may be had cheaply and we know of
no better plant to experiment with.

PENTSTEMONS FAILING {E. P,).— The plants should
certainly be in flower now, and obviously they have failed
from some local cause of which we have no information.
To secure the finest results, some old plants should be cut
down in August to about half their height, and the freshly-
made cuttings taken when about three inches long. If you
can make a cutting on, say, 6 inches of ashes, and above
this place a 3-inch layer of sand, you will have a propagat-
ing medium of the very best. Water thoroughly and keep
moderately close for about a month, when the cuttings
should be rooted sufficiently for planting in 3-inch pots.
Tf you cannot do this, give the cuttings more room at the
start and leave them in the frame, protecting only in the
case of severe frosts. We imagine the fault to be with
the soil, and the Pentstemon prefers a rooting medium
midway between light and heavy. Incorporate leaf-
mould and sand with the soil, adding lime freely to ensure
more perfect drainage.

SWAINSONAS LOSING THEIR FOLIAGE {A. R.).~
Your Swainsonas must have received some decided check
to cause them to lose their foliage now. What this is
we, of course, cannot say, there being so many possibili-
ties. They may have been allowed to get too dry, or
perhaps too wet, while a change from a warm house to
a cooler structure would tend to bring about this trouble.
If the plants have been grown in a partially-shaded green-
house and were placed out of doors without gradually
hardening them, then some of their leaves would be likely
to drop. You say nothing about the treatment the plants
have received, and this, of course, handicaps us greatly
in replying to your question. At all events, we should
not advise you to cut down your plants now, as Swain-
sonas should in the ordinary course of events flower
throughout the summer. If in pots, the bareness at
the base may be reheved by associating them with other
plants, and, in fact, the same will apply if they are bedded
out during the summer, for which purpose Swainsonas
are often used. With regard to their culture, it should
be borne in mind that they are natives of Australia, and
therefore in this country they require the temperature
of an ordinary greenhouse plant.

SWEET PEAS DROPPING BUDS (An Enquirer).—
Your Sweet Peas have probably become too wet at the
root, or are in some way suffering from trouble there.
This is the usual cause of bud-dropping. Your plants are
Spiraea Ulmaria fl.-pl. and Ceanothus azureus, so far as
we can say from the very poor specimens sent.

LILIES DISEASED (£. TF.).— We cannot trace any
insect boring, but find the Lily is attacked, in a similar
way to that so frequent in the case of the common
white Lily, by the fungus Botrjlis cinerea. We recom-
mend you to remove all the diseased and dying stems
and the top few inches of soil from the plants, replacing
the soil with fresh containing as little organic matter as
possible.

LILIES GOING WRONG (C. P.).— Your soil is evidently
teeming with all sorts of pests, and among them are
millipedes and eclworras, both of which are capable of
bringing about the damage shown by the plants you send.
We recommend you to lime the soil thoroughly and do
all possible to admit plenty of air and make it sweet.
Vaporite or Apterite may h& of use in checking the pests,
but it is apparent that liming is particularly called for.

DOUBLE ROCKETS {T. Bay).— The photographs you
send show excellent residts of growing one of the finest
of so-called old-fashioned herbaceous plants; but unfor-
tunately they are not suitable for reproduction. We
have never seen any red or crimson variety, and doubt
whether such exists to-day at all. At one period the Double
Rocket was of a sportive nature, and varieties were quickly
made. The rubro plena of Messrs. Kollinson's 1875
catalogue was of a pale rose colour, and never merited the
term "red." At that time onlya few small plants existed,
and in 1S77 or 187S were practically non-existent.

SAXIFRAGA COTYLEDON PYRAMIDALIS {A. Elsas).
— This is the name of the plant of which you sent a photo-
graph. The flowering spike is more densely crowded than
usual, and otherwise is good of its kind. The rosette
dies after flowering, but as both offsets and seeds are
produced, you will i)e able to increase your stock, should
you so desire. S. burseriana grows but 1 inch or 2 inches
high, forming a spreading, prostrate tuft of leaves, over
which in its best forms the blossoms of pure white, the
size of a shilling, are scattered. The blossoms, too, are pro-
duced singly, i.e., one on each stem, and usually appear
in February.

DEEPLY-PLANTED IRIS GERMANICA (T. A. S.).—
If too deeply planted, this should be remedied at once,
otherwise the best time for replanting is March and April.
The rhizomes of these plants should be practically on the
surface, and during the operation the plants had best
be freely divided also. The single sectional part of the
rhizome (rootstock) made during the present year is ample
as a single plant, though a dozen of these might be arranged
at intervals of a few inches asunder t o form a group. These
Irises are not likely to flower if the rootstock is buried ;
they require sun to ripen them. Gather the Lavender
just prior to the flowers fading, and expose the sprays in
trays to the sun.

ANNUAL STOCK-FLOWERED LARKSPUR (M. C. L.).
— There is not the least doubt that your cold and heavy
soil is responsible for the greater part of the failure in
these plants, and soil pests the remainder. The plants
delighting in light soils and root warmth, the remedy is
with the soil. Cannot you grow them in a bed apart,
making the soil more congenial to the plants by the free
addition of sand, leaf-soil and light manure ? In very
light and sandy soils the seeds of these plants may be
sown in the open ground in March, but in the case of
heavy soils they would be best sown in pots and subse-
quently transferred to the open ground ; they are too
sparse-rooting to succeed after transplanting in the ordinary
way. If none of these .ippeals to you, try sowing a few
seeds in pots of light soil. The pots should not be less
than 8 inches in diameter, and could be plunged in any
position you choose.

HARDY PLANTS FOR MARSHY GROUND {K.).—
In such a position you might make good use of many
plants, though the variety will depend to some extent
upon the exposed condition of the situation. For example,
if comparatively sheltered, Phyllostachys nigra, Bambusa
palmata and other Bamboos would do quite well ; if not,
they had better be left alone. Of undoubted hardiness
are such as the Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis). Spiraea
gigantea, S. venusta, 8. digitata, Gunnera scabra, G.
manicata, Saxifraga peltata, Lilium pardalinum, Marsh
Marigolds, Ranunculus Lingua, the Bulrush, any of the
tall-growing Lysimachias, Lythrum roseum superbum.
Iris sibirica in variety. Narcissus Emperor, N. Poeticus
fl.-pl., Camassia escuJenta and others. Indeed, it is
surprising how large a variety of plants thrive in such
places, while a little thoughtful work at planting-time
will render them as attractive as other parts of the
garden.

WATER LILY POOL {John Gray).— We presume there
is too much sand in the clay, hence it is not impervious.
In the circumstances you had better excavate 9 inches
of the clay and discard it, replacing it by a 6-inch-thick
bed of concrete of about four to one, i.e., four of clean
ballast to one of cement. Over this place an inch-thick
bed of washed river sand and cement of one and one
strength, i.e., equal parts of each. At 9 inches from the
surface reduce the thicker layer of concrete to one-half
this thickness, while, if the position admits, you may turf
the upper one down to the water edge. The naturalness
or form of the whole is in your own hands, and a natural
pool would have a very pretty effect. You would require
a water depth of about two feet and a soil depth of about
six inches. A greater naturalness to the whole would
result were you to excavate to twice the above, given
depth and by a slight increase of the water depth, only
leave at the bank-like slope to the pool ample room to

404

THE GARDEN,

[August 9, 1913.

plant moisture-loving subjects here and there. We
know of no book that will help you.

MADONNA LILY BULBS DISEASED {M. Barris).—
The Lily has apparently been attacked by the disease
induced by the fungus Botrytis cinerea. We have noticed
that Lilies exposed to frost and cold draughts are more
liable to the attack than are those In more sheltered
situations. Lime in the soil also checks the trouble to
some extent, but no perfect cure is known.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

CONIFERS TO PLANT IN A CHESTNUT WOOD

(A. H. R.). — The two best conifers to plant in the Chestnut
wood referred to in your letter are Abies pectinata (the
common Silver Fir) and Picea excelsa (the common
Spruce). It would, however, be a good plan to plant a few
Beech trees among them. As rabbits appear to be present
in quantity, considerable care will be required in fencing,
otherwise every young tree \vill be ruined. Better results
will be obtained by planting trees 12 inches to 18 inches
in height than by planting larger ones, more especially
in the case of the Fir and Spruce. Pit planting will be
preferable to notch planting, and if a little trouble is
taken in breaking up the ground for a space of 3 feet or
so about the roots, the plants will stand a better chance
of success than if the soil were left hard.

PLEACHED LIME TREES AS A SCREEN (M. M. E. C).
— There is no reason why you should not form a screen
by the use of pleached Lime trees such as you describe,
for it would not be likely to seriously affect your herbaceous
border, although the Lime roots in time are bound to
enter the border and thus deprive the plants of some of
their nourishment. If you could plant them 5 feet or
6 feet from the wall, it would be possible to dig a trench
near the wall every few years and cut the roots through.
That would not injure the trees much and would save the
border. The fol!o^v^ng kinds of Clematises would be
likely to suit your purpose : C. montana, C. m. rubens,
C. lanuginosa, C. Beauty of Worcester, C. Enchantress,
C. Grand Duchess, C. La France, C. Lord Nevill, C.
Marie Lefebvre, C. Jackmanii, C. J. alba, C. Mme. Edouard
Andr^, C. Mme. Grange, C. Sensation and C. cocclnea.

ROSE GARDEN.

SPORT OF TAUSENDSCHON (J. G. K.).—This Rose
will often throw otf pale, nearly white blooms. If you
can send us a flower, we shall be able to inform you if it
is of any value. Enclose a shoot, so that we may see if
the growth is true.

ROSE SPORT (•/. G.). — We cannot think you have a
sport, llather should we say you have had sent you the
wrong variety. The Rose is not that of Molly Sharman
Crawford, and a sport rarely varies in its growth (save
climbing sports) from the parent variety. We believe
the llosu is Mrs. Arthur Muut.

STANDARD ROSES NOT FLOWERING (T. W.).—
If the trees were not pruned in spring, you cannot well
do so now ; but if pruned and they have made the
tiny shoots you speak of, we advise you to tie them
over umbrella fashion. If it does not make them bloom
this season, it will assist in laying the foundation for
bloom next year.

MANURING WICHURAIANA ROSES (M. S. F.).— We
think a dressing of basic slag applied in October at the
rate of 6oz. to a square yard would give you the necessary
lime, and at the same time supply phosphate to improve
the blooms. A dressing of well-decayed farmyard manure
could follow, and both should be dug under at once ; then,
in spring, give a dressing of bone-flour at the rate of a good
handful per plant.

OLD CLIMBERS BLIGHTED {Dormans).—'We think
you would do well to severely prune the red climbers next
autumn, but do not think it will be necessary to
grub them out. We advise you to give the Roses a
good dressing of commercial formaldehyde diluted to a
strength of one tablespoonful of the 40 per cent, article
to a gallon of soft water. Double this strength may be
used in winter. It should be applied every week or
ten days, and although it is now very late to begin, we
think, if you persist in it, the blight will be very con-
siderably checked.

ROSES DROOPING {Miss Beddington). — The Roses
you send are mainly Maman Cochet, and this is one of
the most unsuitable kinds you could plant as a bedding
Rose. Its proper place is against a south wall, where
the warmth would encourage its very double flowers to
develop. It is a Rose that "objects to too much manure ;
in fact, if grown in quite a poor soil it is best for it. Of
course, the present season has been all against such Roses,
they being very susceptible to wet, which causes the petals
to stick together ; then the whole bloom rots away. If
the outside petals could be released before decay set in.
the blooms would open all right. We advise you to remove
tlie plants to a warm border and train them upon a wall
or fence, replacing with good kinds of the Lady Roberts
type, which you say has done so well.

THE GREENHOUSE.

PELARGONIUMS DAMAGED (H. J.).— The rotting
of the stem of the Pelargonium seems to be due to the
presence of myriads of baeteria in the stems. It would
be well to discard these plants entirely. It not infre-
quently happens that cuttings fail to heal, after being
put into the soil to root, rapidly enough to prevent the
entrance of bacteria, and tliese then rapidly work great
havoc. Kindly send flowers of your new variety, when
we can better advise you of its value.

FRUIT GARDEN.

AUTUMN-FRUITING RASPBERRIES (Grace Oardener).
—The autumn fruiting of your Raspberry canes will
practically ruin them for next season. Plenty of other
excellent growths will push up yet, and you should select
five or six of these for retention.

GREASE-BANDS FOR FRUIT TREES (Greystoke).—
These should be put on in October and re-greased once a
month until the end of February. This is an excellent
remedy against attacli from Codlin and winter moth and
the larviT of otiicr species which eat the foliage of fruit
trees in spring.

PEAR-LEAF BLISTER (W. H.).— The variety Thompson
seems to have had its foliage exposed to cold winds or
draughts, and the others are suffering from an attack
of the Pear-leaf blister mite (Eriophyes pyri). They
should be sprayed with caustic soda (lib. to ten gallons
of water) during winter, or with paraflin emulsion.

INJURY TO MELON FRUITS (D. U. i.).— We suspect
cockroaches to be eating the young Melons, though perhaps
crickets are the culprits. If so, they should be trapped,
using a jar sunk in the ground and having a little beer
at the bottom, or one of the " V.T.H." slug traps, which
wo have found excellent for capturing cockroaches. You
may ascertain which the culprits are by examining the
plant after dark.

SPOTS ON APPLE LEAF (A. J. £.).— The brown
spots are due to the attack of the fungus Cladosporium
herbarum upon the Apple leaves. It seems more usual
for this fungus to attack leaves slightly damaged by
fro.st or by cold winds than where the leaves have suffered
no check. We recommend attention to the provision of
shelter, wherever possible, and the spraying of the trees
liable to attack early in the season with Bordeaux mixture.
MORELLO CHERRIES WITH FORE-RIGHT SHOOTS
{R. P. H.). — Cut all the fore-right shoots back to within
four buds of their base now, and at the winter pruning
cut further back to within two buds of their base. By this
treatment fruit spurs and blossom buds will be formed,
and fruit borne in due time. You must not let your trees
get too dry at the root at any time. This, no doubt, is
the cause of the fruit dropping this year.

PEACH LEAVES DROPPING OFF (Peach Leaf).—
Your Peach trees under glass are affected by what is
termed shot-hole fungus. The attack is usually caused
by a chili through admitting too much front air when the
wind is cold and the young leaves tender. The best
remedy you can apply is to dredge the foliage completely,
both under and over, with s\ilphur, leaving it on for two
days, shading the house in the meantime, and then
syringing it off. Burn all tlie old leaves as they fall,
give abundance of air day and night (except in very
rough weather), and encourage the growth by syringing
morning and afternoon and by careful watering.

MILDEW ON BLACK HAMBURGH GRAPES (F. W. R.).
— The most common cause of an attack of mildew, such
as your Grapes are suffering from, is from opening the
front ventilator too wide in the cold weather, when the
vinery is warm from gleams of sunshine. This causes a
chill to the Vines and at once invites an attack of mildew.
The best thing vou can do is to heat the hot-water pipes
(not too hot), and then paint them over with flowers of
sulphur mixed with water to the consistency of paint.
It should be done in the evening of a ealm, damp day.
This prevents the sulphur fumes caused by the heat of
the pipes being blown away. Repeat the heating
of the pipes and resulphuring the second evening. The
vinery must be shut up, of course.

TRAINED MULBERRY TREES NOT FRUITING
(.WfrerfifS).— .Mulberry trees are always a long time in
bearing friiit after planting (unless their roots are con-
fined in narrow and limite{l borders), cliefly in conse-
quence of the too robust growth of branches and leaves
they make wliile the trees are young. This is borne out
by tbe specimens kindly sent. The treatment to adopt
to compel them to bear fruit will be to severely root
pnine them in the autumn as soon as the leaves have
fallen. This will result in the trees producing branches
of shorter growth and moderate strength, such branches
only as will produce flower- buds and fruit. The trees
should receive no manure at the roots until they have
been brought into a condition of fruit-bearing.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

PEAS DISEASED (Pelils Pnis). — Some of the
symptoms of disease shown by the Peas are similar to
tliose shown by plants attacked by Thielavia basicola
at tlie root, but the roots sent are insufficient in quantity
to enable us to say definitely the cause of the trouble.

TOMATOES DISEASED (W. B.). — The Tomatoes are
attacked by the fungus Cladosporium fulvum, which
is usually far more prevalent in houses kept too close
and damp than wliere there is ample ventilation and a
dry atmosphere. Spray the plants either with Bordeaux
mixture or with potassium sulphide, loz. to three gallons
of water.

MISCELLANEOUS.

WIREWORMS IN SOIL (ro(«f.?).— A satisfactory method
of preventing wireworms from damaging garden crops
is to cultivate the soil thoroughly and frequently. Hoeing
is especially useful. You can now only try to drive them
away by dusting or hoeing in one or other of the soil
fumigants, such as Vaporite or Apterite. The sowing and
digging in of mustard is often a useful measure, driving
away the wireworms and at the same time adding organic
matter to the soil.

ORGANIC MANURE FOR A CLAY SOIL (Cartside).—
We think you would obtain better results on a heavy clay
soil from using straw litter manure than from peat moss.
The former will not only be less liable to render the soil
acid, but will also tend to " open " the «oil more — an
important tiling.

EPSOM SALTS AS MANURE (W. B.).— Epsom salts
is chemically called magnesium sulphate. Soil is rarely
lacking in magnesia in sufficient quantities for the use
of plants : but if you desire to try its effects, dissolve loz.
in two gallons of water, and water the plants now and
again about three weeks hence.

MELON AND TOMATO DISEASE {W. H.).— Your
Melon is apparently attacked by the Melon and Tomato
canker (Mycosphsemla). This disease must be notified
to the Board of Agriculture. The plants not affected
should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or with sulphide
of potassium. The soil should not be again used for
growing Melons, Chrcumbers, or Tomatoes until it has
been sterilised by steam heating.

FUNGUS ON DOORPOSTS (J. .S.).— The fungus is a
Polyporus, which destroys the wood, and will, no doubt,
spread unless the conditions are made unfavourable for
its development. The tliorough impregnation of the
wood with carbolineum or with copper sulphate would
stop its progress, but merely painting the surface is
unlikely to do so. The main thing to attend to is the
ventilation of the surfaces, and that, from what you say,
appears to be completely wanting.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— IF. H. ./., Plaistow.—l, (Eno-

thera Youngii : 2, Jasione perenne. -H. Eiheridge, —

Rose Celeste, a variety of R. alba. A. B. C. — Achillea

Ptarmica The Pearl.

SOCI ETIES.

CARDIFF HORTICULTURAL SHOW.

The twenty-fifth annual show was held on the 23rd and
24th ult. as usual in the Sophia Gardens, by the kind
permission of the Marquis of Bute, and was quite a success.
So numerous were tlie entries that an extra tent was
needed for trade exhibits, which added much to the
excellence of the display. Plants were meritorious.
Cut flowers, especially Roses, were exceedingly fine.
Sweet Peas are always a strong feature here ; this year
they surpassed any seen before. Fruit and vegetables
were distinctly of a high order of merit. Mr. Maurice
Bailey, secretary, had, as usual, everything well in hand.
Plants were attractively displayed. Messrs. J. Cypher
and Sous, Cheltenham, with one of their characteristic
exhibits won the premier place for a group of miscellaneous
plants arranged for effect. Palms, Crotons, Orchids and
a choice assortment of other flowering plants were all
harmoniously blended. Mr. D. Maclntyre, gardener to
Lady Hill. Itookwood, was a good second. This exhibitor
staged remarkable Fuchsias, pyramids 8 feet high, profusely
flowered.

Mr. H. J. Pilcher, Penarth, was first for tuberous
Begonias with extremely fine blooms, thickly studded on
well-grown plants.

Cut flowers are a strong feature here. Hoses had many
classes provided for them. For twelve triplets there
were flve entries. Mr. J. Mattock. Headington, Oxon.
won the premier place with high quality blooms of British
Queen, Mrs. A. Coxhead, Mrs. W. H. Rowe, Mildred
Grant, J. B. Clark and Mrs. T. Roosevelt. The King's
Acre Nursery Company, Hereford, were a close second.

In the class for twenty-four single blooms, distinct,
Mr. S. Treseder, Ely Nurseries, Cardiff, won the premier
position with medium-sized, highly-coloured examples
of popular varieties.

The King's Acre Nursery Company won for eighteen
Tea or Noisette varieties with typical specimens of Mrs.
Myles Kennedy and Wliite Mama'n Cochet, for example.

A keen competition for twelve blooms, any one variety
of other than Tea or Noisette, resulted in Gloire de
Chedane Guinoisseau carrying off the highest position for
the King's Acre Nursery Company, a like award falling
to the same firm for a similar number of any one ^ea or
Noisette mth desirable blooms of Mrs. E. Mawley.

Groups of cut Roses occupying a space of 9 feet by 4 feet,
with the use of Rose foliage only, were numerous and
attractive, Mr. J. Mattock arranged a distinctly
meritorious exhibit and worthily secured the leading award.
Such sorts as Ethel Malcolm, Lady Pirrie, Lady Hillingdon
and Rayon d'Or were shown in huee masses ; these and
the following Ramblers made a delightful display, which
was much admired by visitors. Dorothy Perkins and its
white sport, with Philadelphia Rambler, were con-
spicuously good. Mr. John Crossling, Penarth Nurseries,
was second. Amateurs in smaller classes were creditably
represented.

Carnations were much in evidence, helping to make
the huge tent attractive. Border varieties with Picotecs
receive encouragement here. A group to fill a space
6 feet by 3 feet was tlu- leading feature. Mr. H. Lakeman,
Thornton Heath, was first with high quality blooms ;
if not so numerous, a flne mass of the yellow Cecilia was
admired. Mr. C. Wall, Bath, a noted exhibitor, was
second with a fuller display but hardly the quality of the
first prize group. The last named won for a display of
Tree, American and Malmaison varieties, showing It. F.
Felton. Carola and Mrs. C. W. Ward finely.

Border varieties with Picotees, dressed and on stands,
were numerous. Mr. Thomas Melhoues was first for a
dozen highly-coloured, shapely blooms.

^feVl.

'mr^^-

GARDEN.

No. 2178.— Vol. LXXVII.

August 16, 1913.

CONTENTS.

XOTKS OK THi; WkKK

A wril-f 1 o wcriid
IMivllnr-actu^i ..

The Lotiaribcrry . .

Hanihlinu Ilosos . .

spirffia A n I h o n v
WiitcriT . . . .

Krica hybrid'i

(iliixiiiias froiusecdb

Fortlntmiiiis events..

Vines in August . .
Ci'LTiiRAL Hints on

NKW and JlAKK

Plants

UOSK Gakdrn
The bi"^t Kosos for

I.fuls

A goDil jranlt-n Rnsi-
Ari- niiu'ieMs' iiiiuns

d I' t r i m *■ ntal to

TLOWKr. C.AKHKN

I'ri nulla cockbnrni-

ana ii\'hriil>
A bi-iiiliful garden

I.ily .. ;. ..
W'nrk ainonj; t h c

Dahlias

4015
J OH
406

407
407
407

407
407

40H
40S

4 OS

409
400
400

COLOiriu:i> 1M,AT1".

Fouryond Datfndils 410
Oi'R Skcond Pkixk Rock
(Iakukn
Brorkhnrst, East
(JrinsUNid . .
llunKNnorsK

On sctmti^d Pular-
iTOuiums

(TMIDKNINO KOK itKOINNKKS
Hnvv to "take"
C li r y-antbfinum
)ni(l> in Ant^nst and
Srplenib'T . .
Placinf^ w i n d « w
plants in rain

(JaUDKNINO OF TllK WELK

For Southern gar-
dens 414

For Mortlicrn par-

dr[i> 414

A N s w i:it s TO f o i: u K-
y i' () N I) l; n T s

Flower garden . . tl5

Tn'L's utid shrubs . . 415

Rose cardrn . .' . . 4ir>

Misoelluiu'ons . . 415
A remarkable new

Sunflower . . 415

SOCIKTIKS 4ifl

410

411

41 :i
4Vi

ILLUSTRATIONS.

A wrll-fl(twered Phyllficaetus
KdJ^e Arthur R. Goodwin
A h(Mi of Liliuni Brownii
Four good DatTiKlils

. . 40(5
408

409

. . Coloured plate
A view in Mr. Hanbury's rock garden at Brockhurst 410
Another view in the natural rock garden at Brockhurst 411
Large boulders used witli fine effect at Brockhurst. . 411
Scented Pelargoniums at Gunnersbury Houec, Aeton 412
Row to " take " Chryaanlhemum buds in August and

September 413

Sutton's new Sunflower 415

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

yVif Editor uplcomes p/i olographs, art ides and notes,
bill he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards phofoijru/ths, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required lor reproduction be plainlii staten.
It must he i/isiinctly understood that only the actual photo-
qrapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not he responsible for the return of artistic
or litcranj contributions which he may not be able to vse, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE GARDEN will alone
he recoffirised as acceptanre.

OSics : 20. TavisUwk Street, C'orcnt Garden, M .f.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Drying Herbs.— All kinds of herbs should now
bo gathered. Tic tlieiu in bunehcs and hang them
in an airy place to dry. When qnite dry and brittle,
strip (iff the leaves and nib thcni fine with the
hands, and then store away for winter use in well-
corked bottles. Lavender fl nvers onght aHo to
be gathered, tied in small bunclvs and placed
somewhere to drw

A Useful Creeping British Plant. — Onr of
the most attractive of onr native plants that
.idorn some yf the moist places in our country
thronghont the summer is Lysimachia Nummnlaria,
eommoidy known as Creeping Jenny. I'or growing
in pots or window- bo .\es in towns it will be found
to be most valuable, the bright yellow flowers,
'ike myriads ol stars, almost covering the foliage,
which hangs down from i8 inches to 30 inches in
a vi:ry jirarc-ful in:unn-i".

A Useful August-Flowering Shrub. — One of

the best hardy shrubs flowering in August is
Olearia Haastii, a native of New Zealand. It is a
particularly useful shrub for small gardens, as it
thrives well in towns and has the additional advan-
tage of being evergreen. Growing 3 feet to 5 feet
in height, O. Haastii has comparatively small
Box-like leaves, greyish green in colour, and during
-A-Ugust produces a profusion of small, starry white
blossom?.

A Dainty Hardy Annual. — lonopsidium acaide.
or the Violet Cress, was imported from Portugal
iixty-eight years ago. This tiny but exquisitely
beautiful hardy annual has never become a popular
favourite, and why ? Just because of its un-
obtrusiveness. Like all gems, it is only found
when searched for. It only grows from 2 inches
to 3 inches high, but its numerous tiny flowers
of lilac, yellow and violet are very attractive.
Sown in the crevices of the paved garden or on the
rockwork. it appears to be quite at home.

The Purple Loosestrife by the Water-Side. —
This is a very attractive herbaceous plant to use
freely by the side of water and in damp, moist
positions. Growing about three feet in height,
the long, slender spikes of closely-packed flowers
last in good condition for a couple of months —
July and August. One important point is that
no harm results from the flooding of the roots
with water in winter, a condition which proves
fatal to many plants. Even more showy and
bright than the species is the rosy red variety,
Lythrum Salicaria rosea.

International Horticultural Exhibition —
Financial Statement. — The long-awaited financial
statement of the International E.xhibition held
in May, 1912, is now issued. It is satisfactory
to note that after providing for all liabilities, a
profit has been made, and that charities have
benefited. The Gardeners' Royal Benevolent
[nstitutioTi benefits to the extent of £1,532 is, 7d.,

while the following sums have also been allotted ;
Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund, £766 os. lod. ;
Irish Gardeners' Association and Benevolent
Society, £ioo ; donation towards republishing
IMtz-l's " Botanical Index," £250. There is
also a balance in hand for contingencies of £20.
A Pretty Effect Made by Rose DDrothy

Perkins.— Visit. irs lu K.w dnnnK thr lalln h.ill
of July and the early lull ul .\unust have
been charmed by this pnlty Rose planted
about the pond near the Palm House. On
the Palm House side of the pond, and for a
short distance along two other sides, the banks
are held up by a wall, which stands four feet or
so clear of the water, but is only a little higher
than the surrounding ground. I'or a distance
of about twenty yards along the two sides the
Hose has been planted, S3 that the branches fall
"ver and almost touch the water. Tiwse, during
the time mentioned, are perfect sheets of flowers,
which contrasted well with the bright green leaves,
and were reflected in the water belr>w.

The Panther Lily. — In Liliuni pan! iliiiinn,
the Panther Lily, we possess a particularly useful
tall-growing Lily which flowers from the middle
ol July until the middle of August. A native ol
North America, the usual height is from 5 feet to
7 feet. Both leaves and flowers are arranged in
whorls on the tall stems, giving the plants a distinct
and stately character. Each stem terminates in
a loose inflorescence of twelve to twenty blooms,
rich orange in colour and freely spotted. It is
what may be termed a good-natured Lily, for the
bulbs appear to thrive equally well in peat or
moderately light loam. L. pardalinum has large,
rhizomatous bulbs, which increase rapidly. These
should be planted 5 inches to 6 inches deep, as
this is a stem-rooting species. One of the best
positions for this Lily is in beds of Rhodo-
dendrons, where the stems will be screened
from the hot sun.

An Orchid Hybrid Growing Wild.— Sixteen
years ago an interesting hybrid between Orchis
maculata and Platanthera bifolia named Orchi-
platanthera chevallieriana was recorded as British,
it having been found on a large moor near Perth
among a profuse growth of the two parent species.
It has now been found in a hayfield, close to the
edge of a copse, about two miles from Shepton
Mallett, Somerset. The finder, says the current
issue of the Orchid Review, was Harry Stacy,
a small boy, who recognised it as something un-
familiar to him. It shows an unmistakable combi-
nation of the characters of Platanthera bifolia and
Orchis maculata, which are said to grow in the
same field, the flowers being white and unspotted,
but with two ample rounded side lobes to the
lip, an elongated front lobe and the spur nearly
as short as in O. maculata, which it also approaches
in the shape of the spike. It is an interesting
discovery, and might encourage further search
where the two species grow together.

406

THE GARDEN.

[August i6, igi?,-

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

A Well-Flowered Phyllocactus.— I am sending
you a photograph of one of mv Phyllocactus plants,
which is now in full bloom. The species is probably
Cooperi. I have two plants, and have had seventy-
two blooms on them this year. You will notice
the amount of nourishment taken out of the lower
leaves, though the plant has been continually
fed with liquid manure and Clay's Fertilizer. By
careful summer treatment I hope to have as good
a result next year. — E. W. Dutton, Noak Hill
School, Romford.

The Loganberry. — I read with interest IVIr.
Owen Thomas' article on " The Loganberry as
a Commercial Fruit " in The Garden of August 2,
page 385, where he rightly emphasises its com-
mercial value. Allow me to supplement his
remarks on the training of this plant by saying
that I think the best method of training
is by means of a double wire trellis. By
this method the fruiting canes are
(rained up one side and the succession
cnes on the other, transposing the
order annually, of course. This keeps
things tidy and gives the whole the
maximum of light and air. One set of
standards is sufficient, with cross pieces
a foot long, furnished with an eye at
either end to run the wires along. — C. C.

Scentless Musk. — The loss of scent
in the common Musk, iMimulus mos-
chatus, to which reference has recently
been made, appears to be now so
general in English gardens that it
would be of interest to know how far
this curious and lamentable condition
has extended, or whether it is universal.
May I be allowed to request readers of
The Garden in Scotland, Wales and
Ireland, and also in foreign countries,
to say whether this grievous loss of one
of the charms of this good old plant
also prevails with them ? One would
also like to ask botanists whether any
scientific light has been thrown on the
matter. I do not know how long it
will take to reconcile me to this new
state of things, but, for my own part,
when I look at a flowering patch of Musk
the old firm faith in its sweetness is so persistent,
so impossible to dissociate from the appearance
of the plant, that, until I actually take a piece
and smell it,':'^! cannot believe that the scent is
gone.— G. J,

^Rambling^. Roses. — A " Note of the Week "
in The Garden for August 2 on the beauty of
Rose Lady Godiva encourages still further witness
to the merit of this lovely late-blooming rambler.
It has all the freedom of Dorothy Perkins, from
which it is a sport, but the lighter and more refined
colouring — a tender salmon pink, shading from
deeper to paler as the flower matures — makes it the
loveliest thing in the garden in the last days of
July. Another beautiful rambler that should be
more widely grown is Evangeline, a Rose of
American origin. It is a single Rose, blooming
in large clusters, the individual flower something
like a Dog Rose, but larger and of firmer texture.
It is very free, both of growth and bloom, and
beautiful alike in the garden and in half-wild places.
I have just noted how excellent this Rose would

be for grouping on a sunny bank with the wild
Clematis Vitalba. Nothing could be better, planted
in some quantity, in such a place as the motmds
and banks that occur at the edges of a quarry, or
on any broken or tumbled ground that there may
be on the further edges of garden ground. — G.
Jekyll.

Open-Air Tomatoes. — The note under the
above heading on page 376, July 26 issue,
reminds me of a way of growing Tomatoes which
I saw — it is now some sixty years ago — in the
garden of an uncle of mine, who brought seeds of
the. at that time in Germany, wholly unknown
plant from America. He called them Paradise
Apples or Love Apples. They were cultivated
in rows much like we grow Potatoes, but instead
of being planted on the apex of the ridges, they
stood between rather high ridges in the valleys.
Thus protected from wind, and warmth gathering
around them, I can recollect them being in admir-
able condition, the glowing colour of the hundreds
of fruits having made a deep impression on my

handsome. One of my plants, against a 6-foot wall
has long overtopped the wall, and is some 9 feet
high at present. I like it best as a bush, however,
and it is most graceful then. Like many of the
Rose species, R. altaica, which is, by the way,
classed as a form of R. spinosissima, was quite
uninjured by the frosts which committed such
havoc with the wichuraianas and other Rambler
Roses in Scotland last winter. — S. Arnott,
Diutifries.

Raising Iris Kaempferi from Seed. — I think the
enclosed photograph should be interesting as show-
ing the extreme beauty of the single form of Iris
Kaempferi. Some three years ago I sowed seeds
gathered as soon as they were thoroughly ripe.
I sowed the seeds in an ordinary 6-inch flower-pot,
and there they remained, with the shelter of a cold
frame, until the seedlings were large enough to be
planted out. They were thus handled once only
from the time of sowing until they flowered. From
this single potful of seed I obtained 100 flowering
clumps in the third season from sowing. Their
range of colour is wide, varying
from white to dark blue. The most
beautiful shade, however, is lavender.
All of the flowers are beautifully
veined in the manner so well known
in this species. The particular speci-
men illustrated has falls of pearl
white, veined with dark blue, with
yellow markings in the throat, and
standards of pale purple. I think
if Iris-lovers realised how simple is
the culture of this queen of Irises,
as indicated by the above note. Iris
Kaempferi would be far more largely
grown than is the case at present. —
Raymond E. Negus. [Unfortunately,
the photograph, which showed a good
flower, was not suitable for reproduc-
tion.— Ed.1
A Good New Thunbergia.— Thun-

bergia Gibsonii, which was given an
award of merit by the Royal Horti-
cultural Society on May 14 and was
again shown on July 15, is a new
plant of considerable promise. Botani-
cally it may perhaps only be regarded
as a form of the well-known Thun-
bergia affinis, but from a garden
point of view it is very distinct and
greatly superior to it. While T. affinis
is of annual duration, T. Gibsonii is a
juvenile mind. I am sure there was no kind of , perennial, and can be readily increased either by
support in the way of tying up given them ; they j means of seeds or cuttings. The branches naturally
simply rested between the ridges. As I have ! lie flat on the ground, though in all probability

it could be trained as a climber. The flowers,
however, form the dominant feature, being larger
than those of T. alata and of an intense brilliant

i ELL- FLOWERED

PHYLLOCACTUS
GARDEN.

IN A reader's

never seen this mode of growing Tomatoes
since, I thought perhaps it might interest your
readers to know of it. — E. Heinrich, Plancgg,
Bavaria.
The Altai Rose in August. — One of my plants

of a favourite single Rose of mine, Rosa altaica,
is again in bloom, and one is delighted to see its
large white flowers once more. It frequently
flowers a second time in autumn, and probably
the other plants here will follow the example of
this one a little later, especially if cooler and
moister weather conditions should prevail. R.
altaica is very acceptable as one of the earliest
of the Rose species to flower, coming in May,
when it gives the greatest abundance of its hand-
some white flowers. Those produced in autumn
are not nearly so numerous. It is surprising to
see how few gardens possess this fine Rose, which,
either against a wall or in bush form, is very

orange colour, a tint difficult to describe. When
the plant is flat on the ground, the flowers arc
borne upright, or nearly so, on long, firm stems.
They are attended by a couple of large
hairy bracts, in colour green, striped with
purple, from one side of which the flower
protrudes. Being very amenable to ordinary
culture and so readily propagated, there is little
doubt but that this Thunbergia will before long
be very generally distributed. For such a strik-
ing plant many uses will be found. It was
introduced from British East Africa by W. Van
de Weyer, Esq., Corfe Castle, Dorset. British
East Africa is the home of many plants that grace
our greenhouses and conservatories, and this
Thunbergia is quite an acquisition. — H. P.

August i6, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

407

Spiraea Anthony Waterer.— This delightful

little bright-coloured shrub well merits all that is
said in its favour in " Notes of the Week " in The
(lARDEN for August 2. It should be, as there
stated, pruned hard back in early spring, while
I find a great incentive to a continued display of
blossoms is to keep the old Howers cut off as soon
as they get shabby, and to give the plants an
occasional dose of liquid manure. Under this
treatment they will bloom throughout the entire
simimer.

Erica hybrida. — Some years ago attention was
direited tu a lieautiful winter-flowering hardy
Heath which, under the name of E. mediterranea
hybrida, had been put into commerce in a very
quiet, unobtrusive way. In referring to this
Heath a custom lias of late arisen to drop the name
of mediterranea, and siraply call it E. hybrida.
An instance of this is to be found in The Garden
for August 2, page 383. Inordinately long names
are often a stnmbling-block, but in referring to
this Heath as K. hybrida confusion may ensue.
It seems to have been overlooked that there is
an old and well-known greenhouse Heath bearing
this name, which, if priority counts for anything,
cannot be ousted from its position. This Heath,
with bright red flowers, is referred to in the
"Dictionary of Gardening" as E. hybrida. ;uid
over forty years ago it was grown in quantity for
Covent Garden Market. Even now it is listed
by those who still grow the greenhouse Heaths.
To avoid confusion the hardy kind should, therefore,
bear its full title.

Gloxinias from Seeds. — Time was when it was

considi-rcd necessary to propagate the better forms
of Gloxinias by means of leaf-cuttings, but now
so carefully is the seed saved, that when obtained
from a reliable source the very finest of flowers
can be depended upon. The superior flowers
bonie on' plants raised from seeds, and the short
time necessary to obtain them, was well exemplified
at the Royal Horticultural Hall on July 29, when
an entire table was filled with perfect examples.
The seed of these was sown only in January, so
that the plants were about six months old, yet
the size of the flowers and the number of buds
still to develop would lead one to think that they
were second season's plants. The leafage of the
plants was also sturdy and of good substance,
there being none of that floppy appearance so
often to be found in plants that have been grown
too warmly, a very common failing with many
growers of Gloxiiiias. Such plants as those shown
could be depended upon to keep up a fine display
of flowers throughout the month of August, at
which time some of the occupants of the greenhouse
will be getting past their best. Grown coolly.
Gloxinias do not require any fire-heat during the
summer, but it is very essential that they be
shaded from the sun's rays. — H. P.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

August 18. — Shows at Wiu-kworth and Pitsmoor
(Sheffield).

August 20. — Shows at Shrewsbury (two days)
and Wallingford. Banffshire, West Cumberland
and Royal Jersey Horticultural Society's Shows.

August 21. — Flower Show at Aberdeen (two days).

August 22. — Highland Horticultural Society's
Show. Flower Show at Blairgowrie and Rattray
(two days).

August 23. — Flower Show at Burnley.

August 26. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhi-
bition. Royal Horticultural Society of Ireland
Autumn Show.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

VINES IN AUGUST.

Hints on Their Treatment.

THE amateur cultivator who grows early
and late ripening Grapes will find his
Vines in a very interesting stage in
August. He generally wishes to grow,
say. Black Hamburgh, Foster's Seed-
ling, or Buckland Sweetwater in the
same structure that accommodates Alicante,
Gros Colman, Madresfield Court and Muscat of
Alexandria. Now, in order that each variety
may be grown to a perfect finish, at least two houses
should be devoted to these varieties, so if the
amateur almost attains perfection in the one house,
he must be satisfied. Bunches that are ripe
and those commencing to ripen require slightly
different treatment. We will presume that there
are ripe Black Hamburgh and Foster's Seedling
in a house where Alicante, Gros Colman and Muscat
of Alexandria are just beginning to ripen. If
the ventilators are small ones and can be worked
separately, those nearest the ripe Grapes may
be opened wider than those nearer to the late-
keeping varieties. Except when the weather
is very warm, a less quantity of water must be
used generally in the damping of paths and borders ;
but in cases to which we now refer there need
be no damping at all of borders immediately
under the ripe Grapes. In the case of the latter,
which are of the black varieties, a little extra
growth of laterals may be allowed ; but the laterals
on the white varieties should not be retained
in great numbers, as light is essential to good
finish and helps to produce that amber tint we all
like to see. Excessive covering created by the
growth of lateral and sublateral shoots must
not be permitted in the case of early-ripening
black Grapes, as any undue shading would interfere
with the proper ripening of the wood and basal
buds thereon. A light shade for a period of two
or three weeks will materially help to retain the
blue-black colour of the berries ; exposure to light
gradually lessens it.

Watering the Soil. — After many years' ex-
perience I have come to the conclusion that Vine
borders are in many instances oveirwatered. On
no account must water be given while the soil
is at all moist, but just before dryness sets in
it ought to be well soaked through and any stimu-
lating foods necessary applied immediately after.
Then allow the soil to approach the dry state before
watering it again. Surface sprinklings make the
soil sour and then air is excluded, and as the roots
of Vines must have air, an open, porous surface
soil is of great importance. No manure of
any kind must be given after the berries are
coloured.

Fire-Heat. — Black Grapes always "finish"
better when not subjected to a great artificial heat.
If the pipes are kept very hot and the house rather
close, black berries will not be of that blue-black
colour so desirable. If it is necessary to have the
pipes rather hot for the benefit of Muscats, ample
ventilation should be given, and where there are
early-ripening varieties in the same structure,
place mats on the pipes passing under them. If
subjected to much heat from pipes. Black Ham-
burghs, after full maturity, will quickly shrivel
and lose flavour as the pulp dries. In the case of
Muscats less flavour is lost through shrivelling.
Judicious firing is always beneficial to late-ripening
Grapes. Avon.

CULTURAL HINTS ON NEW
AWO RARE PLANTS.

HARDY PLANTS.

Anemone sulphurea. — This is, of course, neither
new nor rare, though a rich yellow form of it,
brought to an Inner Temple Show from Aberdeen
by Messrs. Cocker a year or two ago, so impressed
me by its superiority that I had hoped to test it
beside my own. Soil occasionally, as well as
climate and attitude, play important parts with
such things, and those who would be up-to-date
must be ever alert if they would garden with the
best. This Anemone grows vigorously in clayey
loam ; less so in loams of lighter texture, though
still making good headway. Seeds and division.

Wahlenbergia vincaeflora.— A line now con-
cerning this fine plant may cause many to plant it
and obtain flowers during the present year. A
frail and graceful subject of a foot or so high, it is en-
dowed with flowers of the purest azure blue — a blue
that is frequently referred to as " gentian blue." not-
withstanding that some Gentians have flowers
approximating to deepest violet and almost imperial
purple. The plant is so profuse in its flowering, and
so inimitable in colour among summer-flowering
alpines, that it is a plant for all. Loves warmth,
moisture when in growth, and a soil of peaty loam.
Cuttings and seeds.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

Genista dalmatica. — The most suitable position
for this dwarf shrub is the rockery, for when planted
near coarse-growing subjects it is apt to become
overgrown. Mature plants are from 3 inches to
6 inches in height, and except in stature closely
resemble G. hispanica, the same spiny branches,
small leaves and golden flowers being in evidence.
It blooms very freely, and at its best is a mass of
gold. Light, warm soil is necessarv to keep it
in good health.

Pierasma quassioides. — This is a medium-
sized decorative tree, native of the Himalaya,
China and Japan. Its pinnate leaves are from
9 inches to 12 inches long, and are peculiar by
reason of their red stalks. The flowers are small
and offer no special attractions, but the reddish
bark is prettily mottled with brown. Its proper
place is in a sheltered position on the lawii where
the soil is well drained and of a rich, loamy
character. Cuttings of ripened wood may be
rooted out of doors.

Rosa Hugonis is the earliest of the species to
flower, and though its usual flowering-time is early
May, it sometimes happens that blooms are to be
found during April. It is a vigorous grower,
attaining a height of 8 feet or 9 feet ; but the
branches have a graceful poise and are clothed
with small, elegant leaves. The flowers are about
two inches across and yellow in colour. Similar
cultural conditions are required to those given to
other species. No regular pruning is necessary,
and what little has to be done should take the form
of thinning during summer.

Fabiana imbricata. — This is not a new shrub,
but it is practically unknown, except as a pot
plant, outside the South-West Counties. Although
it belongs to the Solanum family, the leaves are
more suggestive of those of a Heath, for they are
very small and arranged closely together on the
branches. The white flowers are tubular, nearly
an inch long and borne in May. It succeeds as a
bush in the open in the wanner counties, but must be
planted against a wall elsewhere. Peru is its home,
and it thrives in ordinary garden soil.

408

THE GARDEN.

[August i6, 1913.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

THE BEST ROSES FOR BEDS.

A MONCr the many recent improvements in
/\ Roses, there has been a most decided

/ % advance in the section now found so
/ % useful for beds or for massing in other
* »■ parts of the grounds. A far more even

and uniform habit of growth has been
secured, as well as a better continuation of flowering ;
indeed, so greatly have we advanced in the last
respect that we now have many varieties almost
as free-blooming as the majority of other bedding-
out subjects. Some little demur
may, perhaps, be made about the
extra labour and attention needed
to keep our beds of Roses per-
fectly clean and healthy, without
which, of course, any other sub-
ject cannot give entire satisfac-
tion. Granted that there is some
little extra work, are we not
fully repaid by a good show of
Roses, one of the most satisfying
of all flowers whenever they may
come ? The old idea of mixed
beds is dying out to a great
extent, and rightly so, for there
was not much harmony in growth
and bloom when so many varie-
ties were used in one bed or
border. Whatever the size of
bed or border, two or three
varieties should be favoured rather
than the uneven mixtures of former
times, when, unless very careful
selection was given, the varieties
so quickly overbalanced one
another in vigour and form ol
growth. This should not be with
the grand selection, from all
points of view, that exists now.
We can have almost any colour,
size, or form that may be
desired ; also plants to flower at
any given time between the early
June months and often later than
the end of September.

Perhaps the most suitable
bedders are those of rather less
than average height, and all the
more so when we avoid those
varieties that have a tendency
to produce erratic shoots either
in the form of an occasional long
rod or some side breaks that go
completely away from the body of
the plants. I would also avoid,
as far as possible, any Roses that
have a tendency to carry pendent
l)looms. I allude to what are sometimes styled
the Maman Cochet section. Although that
beautiful Rose Lady Ashtown is a capital
hedder in the younger stages of its existence,
when the flowers come more upright with me,
it is often too drooping as the plants gain
strength and carry blooms of greater sub-
stance. I am sorry to say a word against
this and some other Roses, but to my mind
it is of the utmost importance that all bedding
Roses should carry themselves boldly erect, all
the more so because we have to look down upon
them, and a drooping posture does not show their
chief beauty. It is somewhat difierent when this

class ol Rose is made use of as standards, or upon
walls and fences.

Another point I would like to bring to the notice
of intending planters is the great advantages of
using those varieties with upright and spreading
trusses. La Tosca, Lady Battersea, Peace, Coral-
lina and Mme. Antoine Marl are examples of what
I mean. A variety that is not too double is also
better suited for the purpose than any that are a
long time in opening. The few named above
produce a large number of buds, which expand
readily and afford a fresh and pleasing show of
bloom very quickly after showers and bad weather,
and thus have a great decorative advantage over

but all may be found in any Rose catalogue that
is fairly up to date. Deep maroon reds — Victor
Hugo and Etoile de France. Scarlets — Ecarlate,
General Macarthur, Richmond and G. C. Waud
Yellows — Mme. Ravary, Duchess of Wellington,
Le Progrte, Alice de Rothschild, James Coey,
Mrs. Peter Blair and Marie van Houtte. Deep
salmon pinks — Caroline Testout, Mrs. R. G.
Sharman Crawford, Pharisaer, Killamey and Mrs.
A. R. Waddell. Salmony copper — Dorothy Rat-
cliffe, Edu Meyer, Duchess of Westminster, Jacques
Vincent. Lady Pirrie and Lyon Rose. Whites —
Molly Sharman Crawford and Mrs. W. H.
Stevens. Blush and cream — La Tosca, Viscountess
Folkestone, Augustine Guinoisseaii
.md British Queen. A. P.

A GOOD GARDEN ROSE.

Among Roses of recent introduc-
tion, few are likely to give more
satisfaction in the garden than
Arthur R. Goodwin. Although it
was only put into commerce in
1910, it now finds a home in .1
great many gardens, where its
earliness and freedom of flowering
rightly place it in the forefront of
l.iedding Roses. The National Rose
Society's official description of its
colour is coppery orange, passing
to salmon pink ; but this scarcely
does it justice, the salmon pink
seldom materialising, the fully-
opened flowers being more of a
buff yellow. In the bud and half-
opened stage they are very charm-
ing, and when full blown the petals
do not drop for some days, a
lasting character that is also found
in that grand crimson Rose ChSteau
de Clos Vougeot. The accompany-
ing illustration, from a photograph
taken early in June, shows a bush
tliat was planted last year, and at
the time of writing, i.e., August 7,
it is again flowering equally as
freely. As will be seen, it makes
a compact bush, and never seems
to be affected by mildew.

A. B. Essex.

ROSE ARTHUR R. GOODWIN, A BEAUTIFUL BEDDING VARIETY WITH
ORANGE AND BUFF FLOWERS.

the heavier and slower openers. Moreover, very
few of the latter are sufficiently free in blooming to
make ideal bedders. Finally, be certain to ascer-
tain the habit and height of growth each variety
adopts before you plant extensively. There is
not enough consideration given to this, nor to the
most important item of how thickly to plant.
This must depend entirely upon the habit and
character of growth, and I feel sure a little care
in these directions will be well repaid.

As some guide to intending planters, they will
find the following list of varieties reliable. The
colours in many cases would need a rather lengthy
description because of their charming blendings.

ARE UNWIELDY NAMES
DETRIMENTAL TO

ROSES?

This matter was brought rather
pronxinently to my notice by the
remark of a large grower, who
said that the name of a certain Rose
" absolutely kills the variety," also
that he did not believe it would
ever become popular under the circumstances.
I am quite averse to a long, tmgainly name, but
I imagine if a Rose possesses real merit, its name
will not prevent it being grown. I remember when
Frau Karl Druschki came out there was a cry raised
against its name, but it is now in almost every
garden in the land, and familiarly known as Frau
Karl or in the trade as Druschki.

1 remember the introduction of a French Rose
named Fian9ailles de la Princesse Stephanie et
de I'Archduc Rudolphe. Of course, this was
difficult, but if the Rose had any real merit
it would still be grown to-day. 1 daresay
to foreign ears Mrs. Wakefield Christie Miiicr

August i6, 1913]

THE GARDEN.

409

sounds just as bad as manj- of the Cierman na.nes
of Roses do to us.

What I do protest against is dual names. We
have now two Geoffrey Henslows. which must
lead to confusion. I think, also, that we should
protest against altering a name from that given
hy the raiser. The raiser of Mme. Caroline Testout
would never think that his Rose would be known
and listed as Caroline Testout, or M. Joseph Hill
as Joseph Hill, and I do not see that we are
warranted in so doing. The whole subject is one
worthy of our highest authority, the National
Rose Society, taking in hand and giving rules
for our guidance ; but in the matter of deleting the
Madame and Monsieur they themselves have set
a bad e.\ample. We want something definite to
go upon. Are we to catalogue a Rose under the
name as given it by its raiser, or are we justified
ni abbreviating it ? Perhaps some of your
readers will kindly give the benefit of their views.
I hope I shall not be misunderstood. I am quite in
agreement with the giving of short,
euphonious names, and would wel-
come the rule most cordially ; but I
do not consider a bad name is
sufficient excuse for driving, as it
were, a good Rose from our lists,
neither do I think it will have this
result with all right-thinking indi-
viduals. Danecroft.

and one can but assume that the majority of the
plants of this hybrid which are grown are really
P. Lissadell Hybrid and not P. Unique. This
conclusion is not so improbable as it seems when
one considers all the circumstances. P. Unique
was raised by Messrs. Veitch mider conditions
not particularly suitable for the raising of moisture-
loving Primulas. The climatic conditions of that
part of the South of England in which the nurseries
are situated are against them. On the other hand,
P. Lissadell Hybrid was raised in the West of Ireland
under conditions of temperature and moisture
almost ideal for Primula propagation ; consequently,
it increased very rapidly, and the growers, having
a very large stock, were able to put it on the market
at a price about thirty-three per cent, cheaper
than P. Unique ; and my theory is that nursery-
men must have bought it up largely and sent it
out as the higher-priced P. Unique. In no other
way can I account for the preponderance of the
stronger-growing furni which obtains in most

well for tfie last three or four years, during which
time the bed has been undisturbed. Like other
garden Lilies, it is well adapted for growing in
beds with peat-loving shrubs, such as Azaleas and
Rhododendrons. This Lily attains a height of
3 feet or 4 feet. The flowers are white within the
trumpet and of a brownish purple hue outside,
making it a very desirable and attractive subject.

WORK AMONG THE DAHLIAS.

Although the Dahlia has good-sized, fleshy tubers,
as a rule, few plants show signs of distress sooner
in dry weather. The blooms suffer in proportion,
some of them not fully developing when the roots
of the plants are very dry — dry enough to cause tlic
leaves to become flabby when the sun shines on
them. Water must be given in sufficient quantity
to maintain the soil in a moist state as deep as the
roots go. Twice every week apply manure-water
in a weak state, and the general appearance of
the plants will be most satisfactory. On the

FLOWER GARDEN.

PRIMULA COCKBURNIANA
HYBRIDS.

I AM much interested in your
note on the above in The
Garden for June 28, page 324.
and especially to that portion
of it which contains the state
ment that, by rights, the
name of the P. pulverulenta x cock-
bumiana hybrid should be P. Unique,
and the name P. Lissadell Hybrid
should go. Your writer evidenth-
assumes that the plants are iden-
tical ; but is this really the case ? 1
grow no fewer than four forms 01
the hybrid : (i) Veitch's Unique.
(2) P. Lissadell Hybrid, (3) a hybrid I
raised here, (4) a chance self-sown
hybrid from the garden of Colonel
the Hon. Frederick Shore of Thomas-
town. None of these forms is absolutely identical.
Veitch's Unique seems to be almost intermediate
between its parents ; P. Lissadell Hybrid seems
slightly nearer P. pulverulenta. P. Unique is
possibly a shade brighter, but P. Lissadell Hybrid
makes up for any deficiency in colour by an added
strength of growth and constitution, no doubt
acquired from its slight addition of pulverulenta
blood. My own hybrid has much larger flowers,
but they are rather washy in tone, and Colonel
Shore's hybrid is by far the best I have seen,
practically identical with P. pulverulenta in
growth and constitution, while retaining the bright-
ness of P. Unique and P. Lissadell Hybrid.

But putting these two latter forms aside and
returning to P. Unique and P. Lissadell Hybrid,
the plants I saw growing at Lissadell all possessed
that extra vigour of growth and constitution
so noticeable in the plants they sent to me, and
in the many gardens where I have seen the hybrid
growing, this stronger form is the most prevalent.

A BED OF LiLIUM BROWNII, A. BEAUTIFUL DWARF LILY 1 OR THE OUTDOOR GARDEN.

gardens. I see the difficulty in retaining two
names for plants which are so very similar, but
it seems rather hard lines on Lissadell, which has
given us a plant of such excellent constitution,
to absorb its hybrid absolutely. All I can suggest
is that as we have a Dianthus atrorubens Carton
variety, so at least let us have a P. Unique Lissadell
variety.
Knapiotiy Abbey Letx. Murray Hor.mbrook

A BEAUTIFUL GARDEN LILY.

(LILIU.M Brow MI.)
One could hardly wish for a more glorious sight
than that of a group of Lilium Brownii on a
sunny July morning, when the flowers are at their
best. It is strange that this fine Lily is so seldom
seen, except perhaps in the greenhouse or conserva-
tory. It is certainly worthy of extended culti-
vation as a garden flower, and by way of empha-
sising this fact it may be pointed out that the
bed of this Lily illustrated on this page has flowered

younger shoots that bear buds the resultant flowers
will be very neat and refined, and the supply of
bloom will be maintained well into the autunm.

Earwigs. — These are a serious pest in some
districts, and in few gardens more so than those
in towns. More insect pests are fomid in town
gardens than in coimtry ones. The trapping of
earwigs in moss and hay placed in empty flower-
pots and between two dry boards placed on the
ground at the foot of the walls and fences, and
also under the plants, and the use of short lengths
of Beanstalks are all useful methods of lessening
the numbers of the enemy, but I am a firm believer
in the employment of the fading Dahlia blooms
for the same purpose. Take off the blooms and
fix them between the stems of the plants about a
foot above the ground, and more earwigs will be
found in them every morning than in all the other
traps. Shake out the insects, destroy them, and
replace the blooms until too much faded to be ol
real use. Avon.

410

THE GARDEN.

[August i6, 1913.

COLOURED PLATE.

PItATB 1475.

FOUR GOOD DAFFODILS.

FOUR very pretty flowers are brought
together in the coloured plate which
is presented with this issue of The
C.ARDEN. Two of them are compara-
tively old, and two of them — the two
varieties on the right-hand side — are
new. I am unaware what the price of Chamois
is likely to be, but none of the other three is so
expensive as to be prohibitive if one yearly buys
a few bulbs of a value of from ten to twenty
shillings. St. Olaf was introduced to the public

centre (whatever name we give it) is ij inches.
I ara most anxious to see its behaviour as a growing
plant, and after I have wintered it and springed
it in my garden I will doubtless have something
more to say about its behaviour there. I may
be deceived, but I cannot help thinking, from
its general appearance, that it will be a very good
variety.

Chamois, as may be seen, is a flower of a different
type. Instead of rounded, broadly overlapping
perianth segments, we get them longer and more
pointed, while the cup has a pronounced rosy
salmon tone in its colour. As I can find no record
in my notes about it, I cannot do better than
quote in extenso the description which will appear in
the list of Messrs. Barr and Son, who have acquired

Ibi:, Acme, The Bride, Algernon Swinburne,
Muriel, Chaucer, Virgil and Dresden, I used to
think Horace red-eyed, but it is not so now. 1
am doubtful, too, if Virgil should be in the list.
Red Emperor is one of those flowers which have
been assigned a name of which " no fellah can
understand " the why and the wherefore except
on the principle of contrariety. It is not red and
it is not an Emperor. If ever a flower can be said
to have an orange eye, this one can. I describe
it in my notes " pure orange flat cup." It
is this pretty colouring which so much appeals
to me, as getting away from the more
usual red shades. The perianth is white
and reflexing. A measurement taken at the
same time that I made the above note says

A VIEW IN MR. HANBURV'S ROCK GARDEN AT BROCKHURST, E.\t>T GRINSTEAD.

by its raiser, the Rev. G. H. Engleheart, at the
Royal Horticultural Society's Daffodil Show of
last spring. Few people, however, saw it on his
stand, for it was very quickly bought by Messrs.
Barr and Sons, who displayed it for the rest of the
two days in their choice collection, where it more
than held its own as an attractive and satisfying
flower. Readers may remember that in my
account of the show I recorded the high opinion
that the raiser himself had formed of it. It
gave him, he said, more pleasure than any
other there. I at once fell a victim to its charms,
and it was not very long before I secured a few
for my own collection. The flower, as may be
seen, belongs to the type of what in old-fashioned
nomenclature might be styled an Engleheartii
Leedsii — that is, it is a flat-cupped or saucer-
crowned bloom with the pale buff colouring indi-
cative of the group. The diameter of the perianth
IS 34 mches, and that of the flat corona, eye or

the stock from the raiser, Mr. Cave : " Leedsii
variety — a very elegant and beautiful flower,
measuring 3J inches across, perianth pure white
and elegantly twisted. Crown open and fluted,
shaded salmon on a white ground with a pale green
centre. Height 13 inches."

Coming now to the two older varieties, we have
in Dresden a good example of that not very large
class of Poets, the all-red eyes. The perianth
segments are round and overlapping, and the
eye is very flat and very red. The whole is a good
circular flower, useful either for showing or for
cutting for vases, as the stem attains the respect-
able length of 16 inches to 18 inches. Two years
ago, I find, I began to make a list of the varied
eyes which are found among the Poets, and to
assign the different varieties to one or another
of the types. I was surprised to find how few
could be said to be all red. The only ones I then
put down as coming under this description were

2| inches by i inch. It blooms about the same
time as Occident. Joseph Jacob.

OUR SECOND PRIZE ROCK
GARDEN.

BROCKHURST, EAST GRINSTEAD.

PORTIONS of the rock garden in process
of construction at Brockhurst, East
Grinstead, the residence of Frederick
J. Hanbury, Esq., form the subject of
these illustrations. Rock was dis-
covered on the site about three years
ago when planting Rhododendrons, and it was at
once decided to commence a new rock garden in
this part of the grounds. Beguu on a small scale,
the scope and design were soon altered when it
was found that the stone increased both in quality

Supplement to THE GARDEN, August \6tli, 191 3.

J

\

FOUR GOOD DAFFODILS.

I- Dresden. 2. St. Olaf. 3. Chamois. 4. Red Emperor.

Hudson <S Kearns. Ltd.. Printers. London, S.B.

I

August i6, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

411

Ma^i

,-<*p%i>«-

ANOTHER VILW IN Till; NATURAL ROCK GARDEN AT BROCKHURST.

and quantity as the hillside was pierced. Fortu-
n.ilely, the quarry where the best stone was found
was marly at the top of the hill, and from it blocks
of five Ions and downwards were taken down the
l;ill on rollers or a small trolley, and were used in
li.e construction of the parts of the rock garden
bliown in the illustrations.

In order to utilise the quarry itself as a part of
the scheme, a winding ravine has been cut through
the solid rock to connect it with the lower portions.
Here the cliffs are some thuty feet high, and the
effect is enhanced by a high background of rock
above the quarry, so that stone will be seen against
tlie sky-line. A dripping-well is
another feature in the quarry itself.

The mounds ni tlic portion shown
m the illustrations were formed by
removing the top spit of the field,
digging out paths, and utilising the
poorer sandy soil to form the
foundation of mounds. Much usefu'
stone was also found near the surface.
Owing to the winding nature of the
paths, every aspect is provided fvr
the plants. There are rocky pools
and a bog garden by the main walk
which is an eighth of a mile long.

About the centre of the rock garden
a beautiful effect has been obtained
by simply denuding the natural rock
of the soil above, and on this portion
a considerable collection of Semper-
vivums and Sa.Kifrages has been
planted. At the base of this portion,
and where the rock dies into the
ground, a moraine is now being con-
structed, with water flowing beneath.

The rock is a pure sandstone, in
which there are large natural vents,
and the surface of the stone in these
vents is not only pleasing in its curves,
but often beautifully stained with
iron. No blasting was necessary
for getting it out. The general

trend of the rock garden is towards the south-
west, and the site selected is fortunate in being
surrounded by l*"irs and other couifcrs and Birches,
the whole commanding a beautiful view towards
.■\shdown Forest. Thomas Matihews.

BruckhursI, Eiisl Gniislcad, Sussex

THE GREEN HOUSE.

ON SCRNTED PELARGONIUMS.

Some ten years
a certain liolih\'.

go. in ail idle iii<iineiit, 1 mounted
allured niaiiiK- b\- the fact of it

being of an almost forgotten breed.
On that delightful mount I have
ambled for many a happy hour
through the quiet lanes of a country
life. It has led me along the pleasiuit
paths of many new friendships. It
lias also carried me more than once
on an exciting chase, ending some-
times in a successful capture, some-
times in a blank day and bitter
disappointment. But I never
imagined when I started riding my
hobby that I should be landed in
front of this extremely big and
alarming fence, viz., giving a lecture
before the Royal Horticultural Society
on the subject. However, I suppose
the only thmg to do is to screw up
my courage, throw my heart over,
and hope to surmount the obstacle
without making too big an idiot of
myself, while craving your kind in-
dulgence for a very amateurish per-
lormance, for, alas ! I am no scientist.
Mr. Wilks has asked me to give you
my experiences on scented Pelar-
goniums. That sounds rather a large
order, for during ten years and more
one goes through many and varied
experiences. I think perhaps the
best way to carry out his orders will
be to divide what I want to say into sections, and
1 will try to be concise : i. History. 2. Collecting,
3. Classification. 4. Cultivation.

History. — You perhaps all know how Cape
Pelargoniums came to be introduced into England.
I mentioned the facts, as far as I know them,
in my article in the Royal Horticultural Society's
Journal, Vol. XXXVIl. But as probably few
read it, forgive me if I briefly recapitulate them
here.

Scented Pelarg(.iiiiums seem to have been im-
ported chiefly from Cape Colony, the native country
of most of the species known to us. They cam? to

LARGE BOULDERS USED WITH FINE EFFECT AT BROCKHURST, EAST GRINSTEAD.

412

THE GARDEN.

[August i6, 1913.

England, presumably m the case of the earliest
introduced (1690) specimens, by way of Hoil.md,
the Dutch being then in possession of the Cape ;
in or after 1795, probably direct to this country,
the English fleet having been sent out in that
year to support the Dutch supremacy at the Cape.
Constant intercourse went on from that date
between the two countries, until in 1815 Cape
Colony was finally ceded to England.

That, I think, will quite account for the following
facts. From 1815, the date of the Cape annexation,
all through the early years of the nineteenth
century, there was a steady supply coming direct
into England of rare and curious species of Pelar-
goniums and their near relatives — Campylias,
Ciconiums, Dimacrias, Erodiums, Geraniums, Gren-
villeas, Hoareas, Isopetalums, Jenkinsonias, Mon-
sonias, Otidias. Phymatanthuses and Seymourias.
But with all these off-shoots, if I may so call them,

a whole series of Geraniaceae, the Hoareas, were
named ; and, finally, the Earl of Ilchester"s at
Melbury House, Dorset, which is not mentioned
in Sweet's " Geraniaceae," but a ropy of the cata-
logue of which I possess, comprising in varieties,
dated 1817. Now, of all those collections in houses
of which I know something, not one survives
at the present day, and I have no doubt that it
is the same in other parts of England. Where
have all those rare and valuable specimens gone ?
My theory is that they were ousted by the mid-
Victorian craze for Zonal and fancy Pelargoniums,
of the evolution of the latter of which I shall have
something to say under the head of " Classification."
My idea is that the existing survivors of the older
and far more interesting Cape and scented Pelar-
goniums are those which lingered on undisturbed
in out-of-the-way and old-fashioned gardens, such
as Mr. Dorrien-Smith's at Tresco Abbey, Isles of

LARGE TRAINED PLANTS OF SCENTED PELARGONIUMS AT GUNNERSBURY HOUSE, ACTON

are thought essential lor producing the finest
hybrids." My own idea is that there are many
more to be found in country places by those who
keep their eyes open. Only last month I came
across two beauties in my own village, after having,
as I thought, explored every garden and window
in the place. Still, up to the fifties there must
have been people who were interested in their
cultivation, for those years saw the invention of
the Shrubland series — Shrubland Pet, Shrubland
Rose, Shottisham Hero, and possibly my Lothario
and Touchstone. They were the productions of
the well-known horticulturist David Beaton,
who was, I believe, gardener to Sir William Middle-
ton, Shrublauds, Ipswich, hence the name of the
varieties. So much for the history. And let me
sum up this section with this bit of advice : " Keep
your eyes open wherever you go, especially when
passing cottage windows."

2. Collecting.— The first step ni
starting a collection is to follow
the classic advice of Mrs. Glass'
cookery book, " First catch your
hare." As to the way to accom-
plish this. All collectors are pro-
verbially brazen, and I myself plead
guilty to having been extremely —
shall we say metallic ? — in some ol
my doings. Harmless old ladies
have been assailed on their own
hearthstones and blandished into
selling treasured plants. Perfect
strangers, who have for their sins
possessed a coveted specimen, have
been bombarded with begging letters.
Kind friends have been badgered
till they must have been sick of
the sound of my name. And all
have treated me with consideration
and courtesy, with the exception of
one old woman in a Belgian vUlage,
who drove me from her door with
contumely, asking if I thought she
was going, for the sake of my dirty
silver, to rob " Le Bon Dieu " of
a plant — and such a plant — which
was destined to figure in the Corpus
Christi Festival the following week.
As I draw the line at committing
sacrilege, even to get hold of a new
specimen, I departed with my tail
between my legs, and regret harrow-
ing my soul. So perhaps my ex-
perience No. 2 may be summed up

I

'^/iJ^^^-'a

of our subject, we have little to do, though one
or two I shall have to mention later on. From
1820 onwards nurserymen and private collectors
seem to have rivalled each other in procuring rare
specimens and producing new and beautiful
hybrids, imtil at last from these charming and
elegant — I use the last adjective advisedly —
plants were evolved the series we know as show or
fancy Pelargoniums. If you look through Sweet's
" Geraniaceae," as I have been privileged to do
lately in the Lindley Library, you will be astonished
to notice the number of fine collections that existed
in English comitry houses at the date of that
standard book, viz., 1820-28. To mention a few
in my part of the world only, the West Country.
There was one at Longleat, the Marquis of Bath's ;
one at Haldon, the seat of the Palk family ; another
at Luscombe, Devon ; a world-famous one at
Stourhead, formed by the Wiltshire antiquary
and scientist. Sir Richard Colt Hoarc, utter whom

thus : " Don't stick at trifles, and
Scilly, the only place I know- where the original , don't be shy of asking." For up tUl now
collection is in situ — though I am told that Lady it has been impossible to buy specimens

Scarborough's collection still flourishes in the
original home of Pelargonium Scarborovse Countess
of Scarborough — or which, when exiled from the
fashionable garden of the day, found a home under
humbler roofs, often those of cottages. Another
possible reason for the disappearance of many
beautiful varieties may be that, being hybrids,
they have just died out in the course of years, or
reverted back to the original stock, as we see
so many modem hybrids do. Still, one would
think that cannot have happened to over three
hundred varieties, which is the number, roughly
speaking, of those of which I can so far find no
trace. But even Sweet in 1824 says in " Gerani-
aceas," Vol. III., page 299, a propos of P. x odora-
tissimum, " It is now become rather scarce,

from nursery gardeners ; either they have
not got them or those they have are named
wrongly. The only chance hitherto has been
the courtesy and charity of fellow-collectors,
which I have always found to be unbounded,
provided one asks politely and personally. I have
reasons of my own for emphasising this last point.
[To be continued.)
[The article of which the foregoing is a portion
is by Miss Troyte-Bullock, and is reprinted
from the Royal Horticultural Society's Journal
by kind permission of the Council. The
illustration on this page represents some very
large trained specimens of these old-fashioned,
sweet-scented plants in front of Mr. Leopold dc
Rothschild's residence at Acton, where the head-

as are those of the old original species, none of them 1 gardener, Mr. James Hudson, V.M.H., grows them
being now much cultivated, except a few that ' to perfection. — Ed.]

August iG. 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

413

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO "TAKE CHRYSANTHEMUM BUDS IN AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER.

THE cultivator of Chrysanthemums has
a really busy time from the insertion
of the cuttings to the development of
the blooms. Each stage of growth
presents its interesting features, but
none is more absorbing than that
of the development of the buds and flowers. For
a period of about nine months an effort has been
made by the cultivator to secure strong, well-
inatured stems and leaves. If the slightest mistake
I"- made at bud-taking time, a whole flower or a
plant may be lost.

How to Take Crown Buds. — The crown bud is

one whirh is surrounded by shoots, and if the crown
buds ot late-flowering varieties show during the
first half of the month of August, the flowers resulting
will usually develop early in November at the same
time as those of earlier-flowering varieties. ■ If
the cultivator fails to "take" the crown bud of
the late varieties in August, the later-formed
terminal buds will be useless for exhibition purposes.
In the case of the incurved and also of thejsingle-
flowered varieties, very early-formed buds develop
into coarse blooms, so that it will be advisable
to pinch out the buds of these that form during
the first half of August, and depend on those formed
on later-grown shoots. Fig. A at No. i shows
the stem of a shoot bearing a crown bud. Side
shoots have already been removed from the axils
of the leaves at No. 2, and it now remains for the
cultivator to pinch out the shoots Nos. 3, 3, just
when they are advanced enough to be quite clear
of bud, stem and main leaf. No. 4 shows the crown
bud. The process of " taking " should extend over
about six days ; each day one or two side shoots
must be pinched off, then the bud wiU continue to
grow and not be checked. Nos. 5, 6 and 7 show
the gradual swelling of a healthy bud. It is not
wise to remove side shoots too soon, nor is it

A SERIES OF CROWN BUDS.

THE M.\NNER
DESCRIBED IN

IN WHICH THEY SHOULD
THE TEXT.

BE TAKEN IS

advisable to allow them to continue growing too
long, else they will overpower the crown bud,
leaving it stunted while they grow on. No. 8
shows side shoots left on the stem too long, and
as a result the bud shrivels, as shown at No. 9.
No. 10 shows the swelling stem. No. 11 the bud
grown to its fullest extent, and No. 12 the same bud
drying up while the main leaves increase in size
quickly. Thus neglect in timely taking of the
bud results in the loss of ,1 bloom.

How to Take Buds of the Single-flowered
and Terminals Generally. — Very early buds of

MAKING THE MOST OF TERMINAL 'aND DAMAGED BUDS.

single-flowered Chrysanthemums develop into
rather coarse blooms on short stems, with flower
petals very short, too, as shown at No. i in Fig. B.
Terminal buds and those taken late, in the case
of the single-flowered varieties, develop into refined
flowers, possessing long petals of a rich colour, as
shown in No. 2. At No. 3 there are some terminal
buds shown ; the central one — the largest — No. 5,
must be retained, and the surrounding ones, Nos.
6, 6, pinched off. Nos. 4 and 7, respectively, show
the terminal buds swelling up freely. Terminal
buds and those of the single-flowered varieties
are usually large and flat.

Damaged Buds. — If the side buds in a cluster
of terminals are torn away, bringing with them
some of the bark of the main stem, as shown at
No. 8, one side of the central bud will only half
develop. If insect pests, especially earwigs,
eat out the centre of the bud, as shown at No. 9,
then the fully-developed bloom will contain a number
of short petals. When the stem is eaten just below
the bud, as shown at No. 10, the resultant flower
will be uneven in form, one side being larger, with
stronger petals, than the other. It is advisable
to stop the feeding of the plants for about a week
while engaged in "taking" the buds.

PLACING WINDOW PLANTS IN RAIN.

One frequently sees Ferns, Aspidistras and Palms,
also other kinds of plants, put outside during
rain showers so that the leaves may be washed
clean. It is a very good plan to treat the plants
in this way when they are placed in a shaded
position. The mistake generally made is to expose
the plants to sudden bursts of strong sunshine as
well as to the rain, with the result that many
leaves which have never before been exposed to
the Sim's rays get badly scalded. There would
be no risk if the plants were taken indoors
again before the sim shone, or if they were put
in a position not exposed to the sunshine. G. G.

414

THE GARDEN.

[August i6, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Pleasure Grounds.

General Work. — Owing tu stress (jf work during
thf i.-arly summer montlis, the outlying parts of
tlie pleasure grounds are sometimes apt to get
a little neglected, but every effort should be made
to lieep up with the work Practically the whole
of the evergreen shrubs, such as Hollies and
Laurels, will now have dropped their leaves, and
a good raking through all the shrubberies should
make them tidy till the more general fall of the
leaves fruni the deciduous trees.

Pruning. — Though I am not in layour of late
summer or autumn pruning, some of the more
irregular-growing shoots may be pruned to keep
the plants in a shapely condition ; but nothing
like a general cutting should be given, or the
subjects so treated will look stiff and unsightly
during the whole of the winter.

The Flower Garden.
Propagating Zonal Pelargoniums.— The work

of propagating /...iial I'elargoniums sliould now
be I oiniueuced in earnest, and as the plants have
made very good growth this season, there should
be no dearth of good cuttings. To preserve the
beds in good condition, the cuttings should be
taken off carefully, and it may he advisable to go
over the beds twice at intervals of a fortnight, rather
than to take off too many cuttings at once. Whether
they are to be propagated in pots or boxes must
be decided by the individual, taking into con-
sideration the accommodation fur them during
the winter months. Pots, I think, are preferable,
and a greater percentage of good plants results
front this method. Paul Crampel, being a some-
what strong grower, is apt to become drawn if
several are rooted in a pot or in boxes, so I prefer
to strike this variety singly in small pots.

The Scented Geranium Lady Plymouth is a

first-class bedder, but to be really successful with
its propagation it requires a little heat and moisture,
which for most varieties is quite unnecessary,
though it is wise to stand the cuttings in frames
or in some such position where they may be covered
in the event of heavy or continued rains.

Melianthus major is a fine glaucous-leaved
plant for summer bedding, and, to obtain good
specimens for next season, seed may be sown at any
lime now. After sowing, place iii a warm frame,
and pot off singly when large enough to handle.

Eucalyptus sown now also makes nice plants
front 3 feet to 4 feet high for next season. Treat
as advised for Melianthus, and in neither case is
much heat necessary during the winter months.

Plants Under Glass.

Pelargoniums for Winter Blooming.— These

are now thoroughly well established in their
flowering pots, and 'though they do not require
much in the way of manure, a little soot-water
will just keep them active and the fohage a good
colour. If bloom is required in October, the
shoots shoidd not be stopped after about this date,
though it is advisable to go over the plants now
and stop the strongest of the shoots.

Regal, Show and Fancy Pelargoniums that

have been partially dried ofif may be turned over
on to their sides to complete the drj'ing off, ready
for pruning the first or second week in September.
Celosias. — The late-flowering batch will now
be producing their plimies. If in moderately
small pots, feed them regularly, reducing the
amomit of atmospheric moisture as the plumes
develop, when they should keep in good condition
for a considerable period.

The Kitchen Garden.

Winter Onions.— During the next few days
the winter Onions should be sown, and where the
soil is heavy it is wise ,to lighten it as much as
possible with wood-ashes, leaf-soil and light
manure. Needless to say, it should be well pre-
pared by trenching and manuring, breaking it
up as finely as possible before sowing. For early
work White Leviathan is a good variety, while for
later crops Ailsa Craig, Giant Rocca and Cranston's
Excelsior are all excellent varieties.

Coleworts and Other Greens.— The ground
tliiis cleared may be levelled over and planted

with Coleworts, late Savoy and winter Cabbages,
as one generally finds that they do not get too
much winter greenstuff, especially where the
kitchen garden space is limited.

Fruits Under Glass.
Summer-Pruning Peaches.— Early and some

of the midseason Peach trees will now be better
for having most of the old fruiting wood taken out.
This must not be done carelessly or by an inex-
perienced person, as when taking this' wood out
due consideration must be given to extending the
branches where the trees are not fining all the
available space. Where the trees are full grown,
the summer pruning is a much easier matter,
and nearly all the fruiting wood may be taken out,
thus giving much more light and air to the fruiting
wood of next year. Very early forced trees are
not benefited by too much sunlight, and a little
shading on the glass during very hot periods may
be more of an advantage than otherwise. I
have noted in a narrow Peach-house, where Chry-
santhemums are placed close to them in Sep-
tember, thus robbing them somewhat of light, that
the flowers have been much more abimdant and
stronger the following spring.

Hardy Fruit.

Wasps. — Though these are not so plentiful as
in some seasons, steps should be taken to destroy
all the nests in the neighbourhood of the garden'.
In addition to this it is advisable to partly fill
bottles or gallipots with stale beer, treacle,' &c.,
and hang them on the walls or trees where fruit
is ripening, thus getting rid of many of them
before they do much damage to the fruit.

Preparation of the Ground for Strawberries.—

This should be done as early as possible, so as to
allow the soil to consolidate a little before planting.
If a piece of ground that has been well trenched
and manured for Peas is chosen, it should not be
necessary to more than single dig it, first giving it a
good dressing of wood-ashes, bone-meal and soot.
Heavy ground should be broken up as finely as
possible during the operation, so as to facilitate
planting. Thomas Stevenson.

(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)
Wohurn Place Gardens, Addlestoiie, Siirr^\

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.
Propagating Geraniums or Pelargoniums.— A

start should now be made with the propagation
of bedding Geraniums. With the exception of
variegated-leaved sorts, which have almost gone
out of cultivation, they should be placed in boxes
of sandy soil and stood in a sunny position in the
open air. In selecting the cuttings, give prefer-
ence to those which have been well ripened by
exposure to air and light. Give one good watering
to settle the soil about the cuttings, after which
keep them rather dry.

Colchicums. — This is the best time to plant
these beautiful autumn flowers. The following
are all worthy of a place : C. autuimiale flore pleno
alba, C. flore pleno roseo, C. Bommiilleri, C.
giganteum and C. speciosum. C. autumnale
(Meadow Saffron) is suitable for planting in quantity
about the shrubberies or the wild garden.

Iceland Poppies. — if left to themselves, these
dainty flowers reproduce plentifully. The careful
cultivator, however, selects his seed and sows it
about this period in a box, pricking ofi' the seedlings
in due course. By this system the orange and
newer art shades will be increased, also the doubles
or semi-doubles, some of which are very attractive.

The Wall Garden.

Watering must still have attention, especially
if it is a double-faced wall. The water should,
however, be applied through a fine rose or sprav
to prevent it from running.

Tidying Up.— The bulk of the subjects here
will now be past their flowering period, so the
whole should be overhauled and all decayed
flower-stems cut away.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Lawns. — If coarse weeds such as Plantains
reassert themselves, they should be promptly cut

out with an old knife. If drought occttrs, watering
must still be resorted to, and happy are those who
possess one or two standpipes, with a good length
of hose and an abundant supply of water.

Woodlands. — In places of any size there is
generally some amount of woodland beyond the
lawns where the scythe is applied two "or three
times a year. If this is gone over now, it will not
give further trouble this season, and the benefit
of the operation will be fully appreciated when
leaf-raking commences.

Plants Under Glass.

Sowing Annuals.— Sowings of Schizanthuses
and Clarkias should now be made for a spring
display. Sow thinly in pans or boxes in a cold
frame. Water before sowing, and afterwards
cover the receptacle with a pane of glass or a sheet
of paper to conserve the moisture till germination
takes place. Till then shade from bright sun-
shine, after which gradually inure to full light.
Clarkia elegans Firefly and C. e. Salmon Queen
both deserve attention.

Hydrangeas. — Many growers propagate in July.
I prefer .\ugust, as by this time the shoots 'have
ripened better and one is more certain of securing ■
the latent flower-bud, without which a season ■
will be lost. We root them in 2-inch pots of ^
sandy soil stood in a big. shallow packing-case,
covered with sheets of glass, in a Melon-house
from which the plants have been removed. Main-
tahi a fairly brisk temperature .and keep close and
shaded till roots are formed. H. hortensis takes
some beating when well grown, but some of the
newer varieties should certainly be grown. There
are now a number of these, btit I can confidently
recommend Radiant, Mousseline, Mme. E. MoulliJr'e
and La Lorraine.

Malmaison Carnations. — As soon as the layers

begin to show signs of growth, they should be
sevi^red from the parent plant and potted up into
4-inch pots. Good substantial loam with a little
sand and wood-ashes will be found a suitable
compost at this stage. Sprinkle a little soot over
the rough material covering the drainage.

Fruits Under Glass.

Late Peaches. — S<e that these are provided with
a net to catch the fruits, which are so easily damaged.
In pulling these, the fruits should be surrounded
by the fingers and thumb, and unless they yield
to the slightest wrench, they are not fully ripe.

Orchard-House Fruits. — Apples and Pears
ripening their fruits should have these encased
in small nets to prevent damage by falling. Remove
any leaves which obstruct the sun's rays from the
fruits. The trees must not be allowed to become
dry at the roots, and pot trees will still require
close attention, as water may sometimes have to
be applied twice daily.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Matting Currants.— Where it is desired to
maintain a supply of these as long as possible,
part of the crop oil a north wall should be matted
to exclude the light. By this means the crop
may be maintained in good condition for several
weeks yet.

Planting Strawberries. — Strawberries may still
be planted, but unless the work is carried through
during the ensuing week, there is no hopi- ..f the
plants yielding a crop next season.

The Vegetable Garden.
Vegetable Marrows. — The shoots requiie

judicious thinning and stopping to concentrate
the energies of the plants on the fruits to be retained.
If there is a superabundance of fruits, the surplus
can be used as a preserve, with the addition of
some Apples to give them piquancy.

Kidney Beans. — At this period there is often
a glut of these. Where this is so, the surplus can
be preserved between layers of salt in a stone jar,
where they will keep for quite six weeks. They
can, of course, be preserved for an indefinit'e
]jeriod by the modem bottling system.

Pickling Onions should now be harvested,
and none but sm.all, well-ripened bulbs should
be retained for that purpose.

Onions for general use, if inclined to grow too

persistently, should be gone over and the foliage

pressed down by means of an empty, flat-bottomed

vegetable basket. Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

August i6, 1913.I

THE GARDEN.

415

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
mahe The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
wUh that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Gakden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When nwre than one.
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and floivering
shoots, where possible, should be sent.
It is useless to send umall scraps that are
not characteristic of the plant. Letters ov
business should be sent to the Ppdlisher.

like f roqueut disturbance. Take care, too, in the replanting
that the plants are buried fairly deeply, so as to set them
upon their own roots as early as possible. Usually these
PiBonies are grafted, and if not buried below the union
between stock and scion, only an enfeebled root action
is likely to ensue.

ROSE GARDEN.

CLIMBING ROSES {A. H.).— Liberal applications of
liquid cow-manure are very beneficial to Rambler Roses
at this season of the year when making their growth.
Alternate this with nitrate of potash and phosphate of
potash in the proportion bf loz. to a gallon of water.
Is your cable a wire one ? If so. this has a good deal
to do with the Roses not making longer shoots. The wire
is extremely cold in winter, and the wind blowing the
shoots against the wire chafes the bark. Can you enclose
the cable wire in large Bamboo rods, or fasten two or three
small thin Banjhoo rods round it ?

ROSE EARL OF DUFFERIN i^Lady Franklin).— Th^
season has been adverse to the development of this Rose.
It is so very double that, unless we have warm weather
and absence of rain, the buds cannot unfold their petals.

FLOWER GARDEN.

CARNATIONS GOING WRONG (TFrt/es).
— Tlie plants have been kept in too
moist an atmosphere. Carnations suc-
ceed best when the atmosphere is kept
dry abo\it them and the soil has a sufB-
cient deirrce of moisture. Yes; we think
you will find a weak solution of sulphate
of potash useful for use on your pale-
leaved Carnations (about one" ounce to
two gallons of water, used once a week
for a time). Water the Roses with a
weak solution of sulphate of iron — about
one ounce to one callon of water. This
will probably restore their sreen colour.

PROPAGATING ANCHUSA (il/. ^. fi.)
— I>ivi>i(iii uf tht' rnntstork in carh
spring and root prni»a'_'alion in winter-
time are tlie only methods of increasing
particular varieties of the above-named
plant. The latter consists of diggin-r
up the plant, divesting it of some of
its roots, cutting them into inch-long
lengths and inserting them in sandy
soil in boxes or pots, leaving the top of
the cutting just visible above the soil.
You should obtain '* The Hardy Flower
Book," by E. H. Jenkins, price 2s. 9d..
post free, from this office, wherein this
and other methods of propagation are
treated fidly,

INULA GLANDULOSA AND COLUM-
BINES (Nort/iold. R. B. A.).— The Inula>.
may be increased by di\ision in March
or April, by seeds sown soon after
ripening, and by root cuttincs during
winter. The two former usually suffice
for all ordinary purposes. Aquilecia
^hrysantha is a tall-growing, yellow-
flowered species, and one of the most
graceful of early summer - flowering
herbaceous plants. There are, however.
hybrid strains between this and the
other species which are also highly orna-
mental and may be freely raised from
seeds. The popular name Columbine
applies to the whole race.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

BOX EDGING TO CUT {T. V. n.\—
Now is a pond time to cut Box edgina.
There will thin be time for short new
growth to be made before winter. This
will appear neat and bright all the
winter. Dc not cut too low. or the
edging will be made brown and unsightly
— only an inch, more or less, to make
it appear even and straieht.

WISTARIA LEAVES MUTILATED (E. A. P.).—
The Wistaria leaves appear to have been eaten by the
leaf-cutting bee. This bee removes circular pieces from
the leaves of various plants for the purpose of making
its nest. Spraying the plant with arsenate of lead
would, no doubt, be an aid in preventing its attacks :
but the bees, it should be remembered, are quite usefiU
insects on the whole, and unless the damage done is really
serious, it would he well to avoid killing them.

TREE P^EONIES (S. TV.). — We advise you now, or in
the September ensuinc, to lift the plants and sive them
a sheltered westerly position. In this the ill-effects of
spring frosts — about the only drawback to a good flowering
that the plants, onre they "are established, sutler from —
would be less felt, the sun reaching the plants too late in
the day. In the easterly position you now have, the
.sun is upon them early; hence the trouble. Prepare the
new position well by using sand and old cow-manure
to a depth of 2.* feet', and let the drainage be also good.
The Tree Pteony, like the herbaceous sorts, does not

judge, one who knows his business, will recognise floral
art when both the receptacles and the flowers arc set up
in simple fashion. Some judges foolishly think an epergne
is an indispensable stand for th*^ centre' of the table : we
think otherwise. A dainty dish or bowl of clear glass
for the centre, with two small vases, one on either side of
this, and four corner glasses or small bowls, make a charm-
ing decoration. Do not use too many flowers ; let each
flower and piece of foliage speak for itself ; and avoid
rotundity of outline in the arrantreraent of the flowers.
I We have judged many dinner-table decorations, and the
best, prettiest and most artistic have been tliose arranged
I on the simplest possible lines. In a capital competition
■ a few days ago we awarded first prize to a table decora-
tion of one variety of Violas, both flowers and foliace being
useii most advantageously. The idea was simple in its
conception and beaut ifnily artistic. You should procure
I Roses of one colour, or, better, of one variety, Shirley
Poppies, Violas, Carnations, Sweet Peas, the different
' forms of the Sweet Sultans, Coreopsis — in fact, an almost
endless list of subjects. Remember, in selecting colours,
to use only those that look well under artificial light, for
all dinner-table decorations are wanted for evening use.
I Therefore avoid blue, mauve and kindred colours. The
hedgerow will often provide you with
lovely leafage to associate with" subjects
having but spare foliage.

NAMES OF PLAiiTS,~Mrs. Dineley.
— 1, (Enothera speciosa ; 2, Erigeron
glaucus ; 1, Campanula carpatica; 2,
C. portenschlagiana ; 3, C. pusilla alba.

L. Barron. — Omphalodes linifolia

(Venus' Navel-wort). A. Midglcy.—

Alstroemeria aurantiaca. M. E. W. —

CampaniUa carpatica {broad leaf) ; C.
linifolia (narrow leaf) ; Sagina procum-
bens ; Helichrysum species, cannot name

without flowers. .4. P., Silhscj:. — 1,

Vitis species, too scrappy for identifi-
cation ; 2, Stachys lanata ; 3, Pteris
cretica albo-Iineata ; 4, P. c. cristata ;
5. too scrappy for identification ; 6, P.

tremula; 7, P. serrulata cristata.

Alice fiill.^l. Impatiens Roylcj ; 2,
Sedum Sieboldii ; 3, Cerastium tomcn-

tosum. J. Higgs. — Roses: ]^

Bouquet d'Or : 2, Jules Margottin.

ir. S., Hawick. — 1. Rubus .species,
cannot name without flowers ; 2, Thalic-
trum angustifolium (Meadow Rue) ; 3.
Centaurea macrocephala ; 4, Gentiana
asclepiadea (Willow-leaved Oentian) ;
.'>, Epilobium Dodonsei ; 6, Mertcnsia
sibirica; 7, Heleniuni autumn ale
variety ; 8, Lysimachia vulgaris (Yellow
Loosestrife); 9, Lychnis dioica More
pleuo ; 10, Valeriana Phu ; 11, Liatris
spicata . 12, Allium .=phaerocephaIum ;
13, Astrantia major ; 14. Spirjea Ulmaria
(Meadow -SweetJ ; 15, Erigeron specio-

sum ; 16, Circsea lutetiana. T. C. A.,

Sussex. — Erica cinerea. H. N. — a,

Rudbeckia speciosa ; b, Geranium
pratensc fiore pleno ; c. Geranium En-

dressi; D, Linaria bipartita. N. W.,

Alvpchurch. — Lilium testaceum.

R. B. — Prunella vulgaris (Self Heal).
The only way to get rid of this plant
from the lawn is to hand-weed it. Lawn
sand will hi^lp. The leaf sent is not

suflBcient for identification. Skene. —

1 and 2, Veronica longifolia varieties ;
3, V. 1. rosea ; 4, Centaurea atro-
purpurea ; 5, Fuchsia Riccartoni; 6,
Achillea species, specimen too scrappy
to identify; 7, Stachys Betonica : 8,
Erigeron philadephicus ; 9, Sedum
album ; 10, S. rupestre variety. Wc
fail to recognise the Roses. Can you
send better blooms ? The Verbas-
cura is decidedly interesting. By all
means grow both forms ; one is a sport
of the other.

SUTTON's new sunflower. the PREDOMINANT COLOUR IS
CRIMSON AND BROWN.

Doubtless it would be a great success if planted against a
south wall or in a south border at the foot of a wall. If
crown in a border its growths shoidd be staked, as it
possesses a sort of semi-clirabing nature. It is a Rose
we do not recommend for the garden, its chief merit being
an exhibitor's Rose only, and even for this purpose very
uncertain. We advise you to discard the variety, and
plant instead W. E. Lippiatt, or, better still, George
Dickson, varieties much superior, the latter especially.

MISCELLANEOUS.

TABLE DECORATION FOR SHOW {Mary Sf.).—Yo\\
ask what points vou should observe in decorating a dinner-
table, 6 feet by 3 feet, for a show, and also what are
the best flowers. In reply, we would suggest simplicity
ia design and character as essential factors to success.
All too frequently dinner-table decorations at shows are
too ornate and excessively overdone. Much depends upon
the person or persons who judge the exhibits. Many so-
called judges are quite incompetent to judge. A good

A REMARKABLE NEW
SUNFLOWER.

The accompanying illustration
is of Messrs. Sutton and Sons*
new Sunfinwer, which was referred to in our
issue for last week. It is a very striking
flower, witii a broad band of chestnut red round
the base uf the yellow petals, and is the result
of a cross made between Helianthus annuus (the
common annual yellow Sunflower) and H. lenti-
cularis (the common wild Sunflower of North
America) by Professor Cockerell of Boulder
University, Colorado, who handed over his stock
to Messrs. Sutton for development, and they are
this year offering seeds for the first time. There
has been no previous record of this colour in the
popular H. annuus, which is such a well-known
and favourite annual in English gardens.

416

THE GARDEN.

[August i6, 1913:

SOCI ETIES.

HESTON HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

The seventh aunuat exhibition of tlic above society was
held in the Heston Schools, Middlesex, on August 6.
Jleston is situated in the midst of market-gardens, so
that it was not surprising to find vcKctables well repre-
sented. The quality of the produce was higher than that
of previous years. Autumn-sown Onions we're remarkably
fine, while Brassii'as anil root eniifr, particularly Potatoes,
were slunvli in ciipiliil firnii. ilrs|iitr an iiiila vourable season.

'till' rresideufs Cliall'-iiiii' ('u|i fi.r the most meritorious
exhibit in its class was won by Mr. tl. Little for three
dishes of Potatoes. The varieties shown were Uukc of
York. Lincoln Early Red and British Queen, the tubers
being of perfect shape and uniform in size.

One of the chief features of the show was a aold medal
collection of Sweet Peas, shown by Mr. H. D. Tigwell,
lireenford, Middlesex. Among the best of the varieties
staged were jMellia, True Lavender, 11. F. Fclton. Hercules
and Mrs. C. W. Breadinore.

.Messrs. Cragg, Harrison and Cragg, Merivale Nurseries,
Heston, were awarded a gold medal ?or a group of flowering
and foliage plants, incbuling a flrst-rate collection of
I'rrpetual-flowcring Carnations; also a silver medal for

t'eaell.'s.

A gold medal was awarded to the Earl of Jersey, Osterley
Park, for a collection of foliage plants, chiefly highly-
enloiired Crotons and Dracainas, that reflected great
eri'ilit upon Mr. A. J. Hawkes, tlic able head-gardener.

.Mi'ssrs. Spooner and Sons, Hounslow, were awarded a
>ilver medal tor an extensive collection of Roses, in which
the leading varieties in cultivation were displayed.

As previously nientioiied. veg(!tables formed an impor-
tant feature of this exhiliition, the collections, both by
amateurs and niiuUet-gruwcTs, being worthy of the highest
praisi\ notalily the one staged in a masterly way by Messrs.
\V. .t. Lohjoit and Son of He.ston.

riie Stephens' Cnp for four dishes of cooked Potatoes
was this year won outright by Mr. Hawkes, in keen
conipi'tition.

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

I'llK nsn.-il miinllily uiielmg of the Seottisli Ib.rti.iill iiral
.\ssneiation was held iii (lie ball. r>. St. .Vudrew Square,
Edinburgh, cm August :,. There was a good attendance,
presided over by the president, :\lr. David King, Osborne
.Nurserii's. The e\liil,its enniiirised l.iliumt estaeeum,
L. Hiiniholdtii niagnitleiiiii, L. elialeedonicuni and I,.
ilialcTdnnieiiin niaeiilatiini, with St.iiaiitliium robnstuiii.
I lie .Mi.iintaiii lu'atlier l.'l.'cce, from .'Messrs. Dieksons and
I'd,, Kdiiilmrgli. Messrs. John llownie, lOdiubiirgh. also
.xliiliiled \^tilbe Pink Pearl. ■J'hc |i,i per for the .■veiling
WIS ..'i\eii by Mr. John lligheate, s-'-inlener to the .Mar-piis
'if Liiditlijnw -It llo|ietoiin House. The Mlbjeet was of
special interest to amateurs as well as to gardeners, it
beiu. " Villa liardening ironi the Prr fe.ssiou.al Gardener's
.Standpoint." It showed that Mr. Highgate had studied
his subject thoroughly, and that he had a perfect grasp
of the principles and practice which should dominate the
arrangement and planting of thi' villa garden. .Mr. Hii[li-
gate went thoroughly into it, dealing with the lawn and
its tn^atment, and trees and shrubs (in the course of this
part condemning the use of sueli large trees as the Lime,
the Elm, and such-like). The usefulness of climbing
and otiier shrubs was pointed out ; the value of bedding
ami other nowcring plants was also dealt with, and promi-
nence given to the most useful plants for the small garden.
-V useful note was the portion relating to fruit trees ; and
growiir! .\pples. Pears. *e , on cordons was suggested
in view of tiic lowncss of the walls generallv built in con-
nection with villa gardens. Mr. Highgate reeciveil a
liearty \ote of thanks.

SHOW OF SWEET PEAS AT DUMFRIES.

In eiiiineetioil with the annual sIioh of the llumfries
Agricultural Society on .\ugTist 5, a capital show of Sweet
Peas and a few other subjects was held. A cup and cash
prize otlered for twelve varieties of Sweet Peas brought
out excellent competition and magnificent flowers. Mr, J.
M'Gill, Kirkconnel Gardens, was first : second, Mr. C.
Murray. Cowhill Tower Gardens ; third, Mr. R, A. Grigor,
Dalswinton Gardens ; fourth, Mr. J. M'Gill : v.h.c.,
Mr. T. Carruthers, Cargenholm Gardens. In the amateurs'
class for six varieties the prize-winners in order of merit
were Mr. G. L. Molfat. Mayfleld, Lockerbie, and .Mr. J.
Crosbie, Dalswinton Village. In the open classes for
Sweet Peas, for six varieties, the winners were : First,
Mr. F. France, ICnockbrex Gardens ; second, Mr. J. M'Gill ;
third. Mr. C. Murray.

FIFE AND KINROSS ROSE, PANSY, VIOLA AND
SWEET PEA SOCIETY.

I'm-, auiillal nhow n( tin' ali.ive s..elety was held on Jldv 26
ill ll'c- Xew Hall, I'ardeuden. and was the best di.splay
yei made by the members, who have every reason to be
pleased with their latest elforts. The principal winners
in the Rose section were Dr. Bowman, Messrs. James
Anderson, L. Black, C. Lindsay, George Thompson
and Thomas Seath. In the Pansy and Viola classes the
successful growers were Messrs. Robert Rutherford,
J. It. Biggar, Charles Gray. John Hutt, Daniel .AIcGregor
and James Campbell. Swei't Peas wen^ an outstanding
feature, and Mr. T. Christie was thi- leading exhihitor.
Other winners in this section acre Messrs. J. .\nderson.
James Honeynian, John lliitt and (iharles Richardson.
Mr. L. Black wa^- the leadin" grnwe.- of herbaceous llou'ers
Other winners of the mixed clatses were Messrs. Andrew
Hutt, J. Anderson, J. Hutt and T. Christie. A very

interesting exhibit was put forward for the opinion of the
judges ; this was six plants of .4ntirrhinums. Instead
of the flowering spikes, however, it was the silvery foliage
of the plants which came in for the attention of all the
visitors, and this exhibit justly deser\ed the certificate
of merit awarded. Splendid exhibits of Roses were
staged by Messrs. James .Me.tra, Rose Growers, C'rieff;
and Messrs. James Fairley and Co., Rose Gardens, Cairney-
hill, Fife.

CAMBRIDGESHIRE MAMMOTH SHOW.

'The 191:! .'Mammoth Show of tlii>, abo\e sociidy. which
was held (ui Monday, August 4 (August Bank Holiday),
stands out as the finest exhibition during the decade of
its existence. From every point of view, except weather,
the show was brilliant. There were l.ion entries, being
200 more than last year, and, consiileriug the trying
conditions, the quality of the exhibits was except ioilally
high. The open competitions included exhibitors froiii
Peterborougli, Bury St. Edmunds, St. Neots, St. I\'es
and Mildenhall. Pot plants were good. Miss Smitli,
Cambridge (gardener, Mr. F. Allen), was one of tlie
principal winners, being first for Ferns, Fuchsias, (!oleus
and Zonal Pelargoniums, all of which were exceptionally
good. For specimen plants, stove and greenhouse,
P. L. Hudson, Esq., Pampisford Hall (gardener. Jlr.
Kirkpatrick), showed some exceptionally fine plants.
For a group of tuberous-rooted Begonias, P. J. Hall.
Esq., was first. Miss Smith being second. Groups of
plants were poorly represented, which was a great pity,
as such a class greatly improves the appearance of any
show. P. L. Hudson, Esq., was first with a beautiful,
well-arranged group, consisting of Palms, Ferns, Francoas,
Clerodendron fallax. Begonias, Caladiums and Crotons.
The exhibition of cut flowers was remarkably good. The
herbaceous Phloxes were the chief feature, these hein"
magnificent. .Mr. C. Bright, Cambridge, was flrst witii
splendid groups 12 feet by :J feet and 6 feet by :i feet,
both collections consisting of well-grown flowers'. Pent-
stemons and Antirrhinums were well shown by Miss
Smith, who was flrst for both. Stocks, Sweet Peas and
Roses were also good. Air. C. Bright, Mr. .P. Hawkes
and .Mr. J. C. Palmer being flrst in each class nsjiectividy,
while other classes were equally as good. I*erfee1 in
detail and glorious in the mass were the exhibits of Roses,
not for competition, stiowu liy Messrs. Pigg of Koystoii
and Messrs. J. Burrell and Co. of Cambridge, and attracted
a good deal of attention. Great ereilit is iliie to .Mr. W.
Stearn for the capable way he discharged the duties oi
lion, secretary of the horticultural section, and the lion,
secretaries of the other section are deserving of cquai
praise.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

I'HE usual fortnightly meeting of the above society was
liehl at Vincent, Square, Westminster, on Tuesday last.
In the midst of the holiday season it is not surprising to
note that the ball was far less crowded than usual. Never-
theless, there were some fine exhibits, notably of hardy
flowers. Gladioli were shown by various exhibitors,
while Delphiniums, Phloxes and the old-world Hollyhocks
each contributed to the brightness of the lloral display,

FnuiT .VND Vegetable Committee.

Present : George Bunyard, Esq, (chairman), and
Messrs. W, Bates, W. E. Humphreys, W. Pope, J. G
Weston, A. R, .Allan, J, Willard, Owen Thomas, C, G. A,
.\ix, A. H. Pearson, J .Jaques. J. Davis, E. Beck(dt and
A. Grnbb.

Messrs. James Teitch and Sous, Limited, Chelsea,
were awarded a silver-gilt Knightian medal for a collec-
tion of fruit trees in pots, of high qualitv and stam-d in
the manner we have learnt to .associate with this flrm.
The Peaches were remarkably well cropped, notably Sea
Eagle and K ruse's Kent. Pears Souvenir dii Congrfc
and Trionipiie de Vienne, and a variety ot Plums and
.Apples were shown, also a new Blackberrv-Raspln-rry
hybrid known as the Veitch Bcrrv, with a deriiled Black-
berry flavour and of exceptional size

Orchid Committee,

Present : J, G, Fowler, Esq, (chairman). Sir Harry J.
Veitch, and Messrs. James O'Brien, Gurney Wilson,
F. J. Hanhury, W, H, Hatcher, G. Hunter, A. Dye, J.
Charlesworth, A. McEean, W, H, White, S. W. Plory
W, Bolton, de B, Crawshay and R, A, Koife.

'There were only four groups of Orchids to gain awards.
.Mr, E. H. Davidson, Orchid Dene, Twyford, received a
silver Flora medal, while silver Banksian medals were
granted to Mr, H. T. Pitt, Messrs. Charlesworth and Co,,
llayward's Heath, and Messrs. J. and A. McBean,
l^ooksbridga.

Flor.\l Committee.

Present : H. B. May, E.sq. (chairman), and Messrs. C. 'T.
Druery, E. A. Bowles, T, Stevenson, G. Reuthe, J. W.
Barr, li. Hooper Pearson, J. W. Jloorman, C. R. Fielder,
J. F, .McLcod, C. Blick, W. Bain. William H, Morter,
J, T. Bennett-Poe, A. Turner, Charles E. Pearson, W. P.
Thomson, E, H. Jenkins, H. J. Jones, G. Paul, B. Crisp
and J. Green.

Mr, .M. Prichard, Christchurch, Hants, had a particu-
larly good lot of the best herbaceous plants — Crinums,
Moutbretias, Gladioli, Delphiniums, Phlo.xes and other
showy tlineis, of the Phloxes, Iris of the bluc-tlowered
set was (Hie of the most striking, while M. A. Bueliner,
purest wliite, was also good. Selnia, pink, with crimson
eye, \v,as also distinct. Gladioli generally were verv flne.
though to our thinking the most charming of tliem all
were the liybrids of G, primulinus, which have the attri-
butes of grace and anistic beauty combined. Crinums,

both white and rose coloured, were very imposing, while
Coriaria japonica was perhaps one of the' most interettiu"
plants in the group.

Mr, L, R, Russell, Richmond, displayed a table of hardv
Fuchsias in pots, in .some dozen or so of the bist sorts
toL'eflMi- with Ceanothus and the best of the hardv Viie^s'
as \itis Ciignetia;, henryaua and others, Diuinrii'hanthns
manilslmricus argenteo variegala was also well repre-
sented, a similar remark applying to the pretty coral:
berried Nertera, which we have never seen better fniitedi
Jlessrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh, had a remarkabU'
display of Scabiosa atropnrpurea and its varieties, whicl
are now as numerous as they are beautiful. The shades
of inailvc from palest to deepest appealed to us most
strongly as lending themselves to decoration of the most
artistic temperament. The Collarette Dahlias wei
particularly flne, Cnmbrae, Frogmorc, Meteor, Queen
Bess (orange and red), Y.dlow Queen and Prince de
Venosa (crimson and wliili' iiimr ilorets) lieiii" of the be^f
Messrs, William Wells, Limited, .^b r-tliam, sta"ed
some excellent Phlo.xes in the cut state- in bold vases
llerviehe (bine). Elizabctli Campbell (pink), King Edward
(crimson). Iris (perhaps tin- finest blue). Diehard Strau-s
(violet), I.e Mahdi (dci-p Panna Violet sliadi) and \rlliur
Kane (very fine pink) were among the best.

Messrs. James Vert and Sons. Saffron Walden. sta-ied
Hollyhocks, both in the n.atural spike as grown and
on boards in the cut state, in yellow, white, crimsnn
pink, coral and other shades,

Messrs, A, H. Cole, J,imited, Swanley, exhibited a capital
collectiou of Zonal Pelargoniums in some thirty or more
leading commercial varieties. Crimson Crampel, Ian
Maclaren, Maxime Kovali-vsky, Barbara Hope (a fliie
salmon), Venus (purest white) and Sir 1!. Hall (crimson-
scarlet) were among the best. Gloxinias and an excellent
strain of Peiitstemons were also displayed.

.Messrs, T, S, Ware, Limited, Feltliam, fliled a lal le
with the showier herbaceous plant.s — Phloxi-s, Urigerons,
,\gapaiithus umbellatus albus, Delphiniiiiiis aiiif Gail-
lardias. Salvia nemorosa virgala was parlieiilarly good
and showy, as were also white and i-oloured c'riiinins
and Canipaiiula grandillora,,

,Messrs, William (iitlmsh and .Sons, Highgate, N.,
displayed a miscellaneous table of stove and grecnbousi-
plants — Caladiums, Draea-iias. I, ilium aural iini, L, longi-
floruni in variety and 11( -goiiia Pn-sident {'ariiot. Ilracauia
Victoria- and Coleus Cordelia (a flnely-eidouriHl variety)
were liotli handsomely displayed in bold groups,

iMi-ssrs, H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, displayed
grei-nliouse I'erns in (\\eellent condition, staging gro'ujis
of .\diaiitiiiii farliyensi^ gloriosnm, Davallia tenuifolia
Veitchii, Adiantnni peruvianum, Polypodium Mayi and
Nejihrolepis ixaltata superba, .idia'ntum Fatdkiieri is
one of the most delicate and pleasing of the Maidenhair
Ferns, and was well represented,

A small iilaiit of Saxifraga floruh-nta in flower was
shown by Mr. B. Crisp on behalf ot Mr. A. W. Chaplin,
Great Airwell, near Ware. It is a rare and interesting
species, seldom seen in llower away from its native
habitat.

Some excellent herbaceous Phloxes were shown by
Mr. W. Wilkinson, Elmhurst, Bishop's Stortford, but we
did not notice any novelty of outstanding merit among
them.

Mr. Charles Blick, Warren Nurseries. Hayes, exhibited
a handsome vase of the dc^ep apricot-coloufed Carnation
Mrs, Wharton, The variety gained an award of merit
last year.

Mr. A, Worslcy, Isleworlh. exhibited the drooping,
blue-flowered Agapanthus Weillcgii. which is M-ry beautiful
and distinct.

Mr. Amos Perry. Enfli-ld, exhibiterl elleetive masses
of Delphiniums and .\ehilleas. the hybrids of 1), Belladonna
making quite a feature. Of these we noted D, semi-plena,
D. Mrs, Brimton. 1), Peisinimon, D. Lamartine and 1).
Mrs. Thomson, representing deeji and light shades of blue,
Achillea Perry's While was very flnetv shown, a great
mass of pure white that was exceedingly effective.

Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., sent a handsome bunch of
Campanula grandiflora semi-plena, a variety of bold stature
and very rich in colour.

A collectiou of choice and rare flowering plants was
shown by Mr. G. Reuthe, Hardy Plant Nursery, Keston,
Kent. The collection included Sedum pulchellum (the
true Bird's-foot Stonecrop), Stokesia cyaiu-a prsecox,
Erinacca pungens and Astilbe simplicifolia.

Show of Gi.amoii.

There was keen competition for the President's Cup
for twenty vases of Gladioli, The English competitors
showed excellent spikes of blooms, but they were un-
questionably beaten by Messrs, G, Zeestrateil and Sons,
Oegstgeest, Holland, who staged an exquisite collection.
Among the best of the varieties sho^vn were Badenia
(blue), Princeps (light red). Pink Perfection, Baron Joseph
Hnlot (violet, but not over-\iL'or.>iis), Keil Emperor.
Goli.ath (crimson purple) and .Mocniligjil (soft yellow),

A magnificent display of Gladioli, exti-iiding the whole
length of the hall (not for competition), was -^ent h\ Messrs,
Kelway and Sou, Langport, who have so loin; bei-'ii closely
associated with this flower. Every vase in this extensive
exhibit contained flowers of the highest iiertection. We
were particularly impressed with the \ariefies Lady
Macfarlanc, Lady Muriel Digby, Colonel ]\Iorgan. Adelaide,
Glory of Somerset, Royalty and Princess Victoria.
Several very promising seedlings under number were also
noted,

Messrs, William Cut bush and Son. Highgate. London,
N., showed Gladifdi in varir-ty. The varieties Peace,
Halley. Panama and ,-\nierica were shown in iiiiantity,
while the centre of the grouj) was fliled with the bright
purple bine iif Baron Joseph Hiilot. which everyone
admired.

\

GARDEN.

^^^^

No. 2179.— Vol. LXXVII.

August 23, 1913.

CONTBNTS.

.Votes of the Week
coeresposdence

The charm of
Clarklas

Eucharii* grand!-
ttora

Musk losing its
scent

A late-flowerini;
Horse Chestnut . .

Lilium gigantcum. .

Convolvul us

Heavenly Blue

(Ipomoea rubro-

cserulea)

Forthcoming events..

FLOWER Garden

The American Cow-
slips

Hardy annuals for
autumn sowing . .
Trees and Smttjns

The August-flower-
ing Clematises . .

A 1 i 1 1 1 e - k n o w n
Chilian shrub . .

417

418
418
418

419

419

419

419

419
420

420
421

Greenhouse
On scented Pelar-
goniums . . 422
Daffodil Notes . . 423
CUT Flowers . . . . 424
NEW and Rare

Plants 424

A new Chinese shrub 424
Gardening for Beginners
How to grow Arum

Lilies : 425

Parsley for succession 425
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 426

For Northern gar-
dens 426

ANSWERS TO Corre-
spondents

Flower garden
Trees and shrubs
Rose garden . .
Greenhouse . .
Miscellaneous
Societies . .

427
427
427
427
428
428

ILLUSTRATIONS.

A ane plant of Eucharis grandifiorn 418

American Cowslips or Shooting stars 419

The fragrant Virgin"? Bower 421

Clematis Viticella alba 421

Clematis Pseudo-flammnla 421

Eucryphia pinnaf ifolia flowering at Kew 422

A flowering spray of Eucryphia pinnatifolia . . . . 423

Spiraea arborea grandis 4-4

How to grow Arum Lilies 425

BDITORIAL. NOTICKS.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send In questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he mil not he responsible lor their sate return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he tmll endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required lor reproduction be plainly stated.
/. must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner o1 the copyright will be treated ipith.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contribittions which he may not be able to use. and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as endence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden mil alone
be recognisea as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistoelf Street, Covent Garden. W,C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Hydrangea cinerea sterilis. — This woody
Hydrangea is worthy of attention, either for con-
servatory decoration or for planting out of doors.
The corymbs of snow white flowers are not so
pyramidal as those of paniculata grandifiora,
nor yet so flat as those of arborescens.

Dividing Spring Bedding Plants. — Such plants
as Auriculas, Daisies, Primroses, Polyanthuses,
Saxifragas and many others that are required for
spring bedding should now be divided. Break
them up into pieces with roots attached, if possible,
and plant them in a partially-shaded place in good
soil, giving an occasional watering should the
weather be at all dry. Wallflowers, Canterbury
Bells, Sweet Williams, Foxgloves and other biennials
should also be transplanted to get good, sturdy
plants for planting out later.

Salvia Grahamii. — This is a plant which deserves
to be better known. It is of shrubby habit if
permitted, but may be cut down in spring if
desired, when it makes a nice, bushy plant. Given
good soil and a sunny position, it will attain to
3 feet or 4 feet. The flowers are bright crimson
lake in colour, and are produced on slender growths
clothed with small, bright green leaves. It is
reputed to be rather shy-flowering, but a clump in
the gardens at Westwick, Norwich, has proved quite
the opposite, having been in flower all the summer.

Seed-Sowing in Late Summer. — Seeds of all
bulbous or similar plants should be sown now as
soon as ripe. By doing so, much better results
are obtained. Seeds of Primulas and many alpine
plants are best treated in the same way, as many
of them lose a good deal of their vitality through
being left till the spring, and, consequently, are
much slower in germinating. As seeds of many
bulbous plants take several yeairs before they
germinate, it is very important to be sure that
the seeds which have been sown some time are
quite perished before disposing of the soil in
which they are placed.

A Charming Californian Plant. — Platystemon

califomicu? is a pretty hardy annual not very
often seen. Hailing from California, it is known
as the Californian Poppy, a title which Esch-
scholtzia califomica has also arrogated to itself.
Nicholson describes the flowers as yellow, but
creamy white is as near the mark, especially in
reference to the tmder side of the petals, which
are much in evidence, as the flowers close up early
in the afternoon and remain closed on dull
days, when they give the suggestion of creamy
white Snowdrops. It is a desirable dwarf
hardy annual.

ButterBies and Caterpillars. — During the past
ten days or so there have been great numbers of
butterflies about, chiefly the large wliite Cabbage
butterfly. In past seasons caterpillars have, in
many instances, entirely destroyed Cabbages
and Cauliflowers in some town gardens, leaving

only the main stem and ribs of the leaves. Culti-
vators should, where they possess only a few
plants, carefully examine the under sides of the
leaves and destroy the clusters of eggs often fotmd
there. Where there are large breadths of plants,
vigorously shake the leaves, dislodge the eggs,
scatter a small quantity of dust-dry lime on the
soil, and then rake it over with an iron-toothed
rake. Both eggs and early caterpillars will thus
be destroyed wholesale.

The Barberton Daisy. — For several weeks past
a long, narrow border at the foot of the Orchid
houses at Kew has been made very effective by
the flowers of this South African Composite. Known
under the name of Gerbera Jamesonii, the species
has made rapid strides in public favour during the
last twelve or fifteen years, for twenty years ago
it was scarcely known outside botanic gardens.
The warm, sunny position in which the above-
mentioned plants are growing evidently ensures the
exact conditions they desire, for every plant is a
well-developed specimen bearing a profusion of
well-grown, healthy leaves, and a large number
of inflorescences borne upon long, sturdy stalks.
The larger inflorescences are upwards of three inches
across, and the colour is, in most cases, the rich
scarlet peculiar to the best forms.

A New Wild Rose. — Lovers of the beautiful
single Roses will welcome the advent of Rosa
sertata, a new variety from China. We
owe its introduction to Mr. E. H. Wilson, who
also sent home two other recent additions to our
wild Roses, e.g., R. Moyesii and R. WiUmottise.
R. sertata forms an attractive bush 4 feet to 5 feet
high, with elegant, glaucous green foliage. From
mid-June onwards, for a month or rather more,
appear a profusion of delicate rose pink blooms
2 inches or rather more in diameter. These are
followed by quantities of bright red fruits, which
hang in small clusters, two, three, or more together,
from the long, arching growths. The fruits are
about three-quarters of an inch long, sub-globose
or urceolate. R. sertata will make a nice Rose
for hedges, being well furnished to the base.

A Good Californian Lilac. — The various ever-
green kinds of Ceanothus form excellent wall plants,
but possibly none is better than C. th>-rsiflorus
griseus so far as free-flowering qualities go. C.
thyrsiflorus is knovm as the Californian Lilac,
but the variety tmder notice can, perhaps, lay
better claim to that name, for the flowers of the type
are blue, while those of the variety are pale mauve
in colour and are borne in larger heads than those
of the type. C. thyrsiflorus is one of the hardiest
of the spring-flowering kinds, and grows into a
large bush in the open ground at Kew. The variety
is, however, grown on walls, and few objects attract
more attention during late May, for every branchlet
is terminated with a fine inflorescence. Anyone
who has wall space to spare, whether it faces east,
south, or west, might give this and other Ceano-
thuses a trial.

418

THE GARDEN.

[August 23, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

[Tke Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Ornamental Gourds at Edinburgh. — In some
of the beds in Princes Street Gardens, Edinburgh,
several varieties of ornamental Gourds with ripe
fruit have been used as dot plants, with good effect.
The only drawback in connection with them is
the innumerable questions asked by visitors,
including earnest enquiries as to how they should
be served at table. — Visitor.

Anemone japonica Gracieuse. — I am not sure
whether this double Japanese Anemone emanated
from Nancy or Paris, but it is a most desirable
variety. It is the most vigorous of all the
varieties which I have seen, including the type.
In colour it does not vary much from several
other varieties, but it is most floriferous, each
stem bearing from ten to fourteen flowers. — C. C.

Olearias and Ceanothuses in our best cultivated
borders, but more a subject to use freely in the
less important shrubbery borders and grow in
masses in the open woodland or serai-wild parts
of the pleasure grounds. The double pink blossoms
are borne at the ends of the shoots in long, terminal
panicles, and might be very well compared to a
double pink Daisy, so numerous and closely set
are the petals. Rubus fruticosus roseo pleno
and R. ulmifolius flore pleno are the two best-
known names of this Bramble, though at various
times it has had at least two more. — A. B.

Eucharis grandiflora, or, as it is more often
named, E. amazonica, although introduced from
New Grenada in 1854, still occupies a prominent
position in any collection of exotic plants. Its
beautiful, shining, Aspidistra-like foliage gives
it a charm even when not in flower. It forms at
all times an excellent subject for the stove, where
it enjoys during active growth a maximum amount

A FINE PLANT OF EUCHARIS GRANDIFLORA GROWN BY MR. WEBSTER AT BECKENHAM.

Huge Rhododendrons. — " S. A." has an inter-
esting note on the large Rhododendron in the
gardens at Culzeaii Castle, Ayrshire (page 383).
It may further interest your readers to know that
there is a Rhododendron forest on the estate of
the Earl of Malmesbury at Heron Court, Hamp-
shire. Lord Malmesbury very kindly opens the
forest mentioned to visitors when the plants are
in flower. These Rhododendrons form long
avenues, meeting overhead, many of them being
of vast proportions. They cover a considerable
space, some of which is on a gentle slope, and as
the surface soil has been washed away, thousands
of huge roots, forming a veritable network, are
exposed. The plants are chiefly, I believe, of the
ponticum type. — G. G.

An Attractive Double Pink Bramble. — This
is one of the showiest of the flowering Brambles,
and the fact that it blooms during August, after
the majority of the flowering shrubs are past,
adds considerably to its value. It is, however,
not exactly a shrub to associate with Eucryphias,

of both top and bottom heat, with abundant
moisture. Unlike most plants, it can be flowered
twice or even three times a year by varying treat-
ment. To obtain these results, immediately after
flowering active growth should be encouraged
by abundant heat and moisture, aided by the
application of weak liquid manures (including
soot-water) until the new foliage is perfectly
developed, a gradual reduction then taking place
until the foliage becomes sufiiciently hardened to
allow removal of the plants to a drier and cooler
atmosphere, to remain there until it is desirable they
should bloom. During this resting and ripening
period only just sufllcient water should be applied
to prevent the leaves suffering. Six weeks before
the blooms are required, all that is necessary is to
place the plants in extra heat. Bottom-heat at this
stage is a great factor to simultaneous flowering.
The plant illustrated is 6 feet in diameter ; it
produced thirty-six spikes, with an average of
five blooms to each. It was grown on from a small
plant, potted in loam mixed with old mortar

sittings. Some years ago the plant was badly
attacked by Eucharis mite, showing distinct red
streaks above and below the soil on the leaf-stalks.
Repeated applications of lime-water gave good
results. It would appear almost unnecessary, *
considering the large quantity of water required
during the periods of active growth, to say that
perfect drainage is essential to success. — Mark
Webster, Kelsey Park Gardens. Beckenham, Kent.

The Charm of Clarkias. — Judging from notices
in The Garden, considerable attention is being
given to these lovely annuals at the present time,
and no wonder, for some of the newer double
varieties are great improvements on the old single
ones. Three particularly beautiful ones which
I have seen this summer are Orange King, Queen
Mary and Purple Prince. The last is of that
unfortunate magtnta shade which never seems
to have many friends, but which is not bad when
you get it alone. Queen Mary is a rich deep rose,
very bright and most effective, as visitors who saw
it at the " International " will remember. Orange
King is a rich cerise pink, the middle of the flower
being the darker. As pot plants for conservatory,
corridor, hall, or large drawing-room decoration
they are superb, I was talking to Mr. N. F.
Barnes of Eaton Hall Gardens at our local show
not long since, and I was delighted to find him
equally enthusiastic over the merits of Clarkias
generally when grown in pots. He said how well
the soft pink and rose shades blend with the mauves
and pale heliotropes of Schizanthus. Their culture
is of the simplest, and they seem able to adapt
themselves to different sizes of pots and to bloom
freely in all of them — the rule being the larger
the pot the taller the plant, and vice versa in
reason — the minimum size that I would advise
being a si-inch. — Joseph Jacob.

Musk Losing Its Scent. — I see it is suggested
in your issue for August 9, page 395, that Musk
never did smell stronger than it does to-day. I
cannot say that I ever found an outdoor specimen
with a strong scent, but years ago I distinctly
remember a sunny greenhouse fiUed in the spring
with the delightful perfume of this plant. I have
lately raised plants from seed and obtained them
from various sources, but they have all been
nearly scentless, and friends have remarked on
the same peculiarity. The scent of plants, however,
is not a mere freak of Nature, but is produced to
attract insects to the blossoms, as was pointed out
by another correspondent some weeks- back. For
this reason the scent is most apparent when con-
ditions of atmosphere favour the visits of the
fertilising insects. Thus, some plants smell most
strongly after rain ; others when the air is sultry ;
others, which are visited by night insects, only
smell after sunset. The ordinary little yellow
pot Musk is, I believe, a native of North-West
America, and was not known in England till
after 1826. It brought its scent with it when
it came to us, but it is not improbable that the
insects which fertilise it in its native home are not
known in our island. It has, therefore, been
obliged to fall back on some other means of fertili-
sation, and its scent, being no longer useful to it,
has gradually disappeared, vanishing first from
those plants grown in the open, where colder
conditions seemed most unfavourable to insect
visitors. It was not until the scent had almost
vanished that the fact was brought to general
notice. I give this suggestion for what it is worth,
but it would be interesting to know whether Musk
still smells in its native haunts and by what insects
it is fertilised there. — E. A. P.

August 23, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

419

A Late-Flowering Horse Chestnut.— .■Gsculus

parviflora, tho Shrubby Buckeye, is an August-
flowering shrub of considerable value for the
pleasure grounds and shrubbery borders. A
native of the South-Easteni United States, when
growing in the open it forms a large, shapely bush
8 feet or more in height and sometimes double
as much through. When growing in suitable
soil and surroundings, suckers push up freely.
M. parviflora has the familiar digitate Chestnut
leaf and a long, slender inflorescence of white
flowers with prominent stamens. Seeds ripen in
this country during a favourable autumn. — O.
Lililim giganteum. — The illustration of the

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

THE AMERICAN COWSLIPS.

HE Dodecatheons, American Cowslips,
or Shooting Stars as they are popularly
known, belong to the Primula family,
though quite unlike them in general
appearance. They have, however, the
refle.xing petals of the Cyclamen,
which also belong to the same great family ; nothing,
however, to suggest that they are allied to the
Primroses. Both botanically and horticulturally
they may be regarded as a small race, yet, when

T

Liliums growing in Lady Trevor's garden at Chirk, ' we have learnt to know them and grow them,
which appeared on page 382, issue
August 2, shows remarkably fine
specimens. I have just seen a plant
in a sandy border in a towni garden
ill Hampshire. It is a poor plant,
and I was told that they — owner
and gardener — could not succeed in
growing this Lilium. In a garden
on a bill not far away there has
been no difficulty experienced in
growing grand plants in a partially-
shaded position, which bears out
Lady Trevor's contention that a
shady place is best. — B.

Convolvulus Heavenly Blue
(Ipomcea rubro-caerulea).— It is

not every year that one is able
to speak of success out of doors
with this most lovely flower, but
just now it is a sight worth seeing.
On two patches on a wall facing
south-west there were, on the
morning of August 4, thirty-three
and thirty-eight open blooms re-
spectively, the plants in each case
growing in light, warm soil,
covering only the modest space
of 5 feet high by 3J feet wide.
In one of the patches fifteen
blooms were so closely grouped
together that they all touched or
overlapped. The sight of this
comparatively large expanse of
this most perfect blue was a thing
to remember with thankfulness for
the gift of such astounding beauty.
The flower is of extreme purity,
both of form and texture, the
wonderful blue being enhanced by
a faint suspicion of yellow in the
tube. It is a matter for regret that
so lovely a thing should be so
fugacious, for after midday the
flower loses its purity and by the
afternoon has turned to a muddy
pink. It is only fair to say that
the plants were grown from Messrs. Sutton's seeds.
It is well to know that so good a strain is avail-
able, for in former years the best one could obtain
were more rank in growth and the flowers much
fewer. — G. Jekyll.

AMERICAN COWSLIPS

OR SHOOTING
MEADIA).

STARS DODECATHEON

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

August 28. — Flower Show? at Dundee (three
days) and Sandy.

August 29. — Flower Shows at Dunfermline
(two days), Falkirk and Lymington.

August 30. — Flower Shows at East Linton,
Melrose, Conway, Penicuik and Whaley Bridge.
Co-partnership Festival.

they have quite an importance of their -own. We
say this much advisedly, because of the too
frequent text-book recommendations that these
plants — and not thes.e alone— are particularly
partial to " light, gritty loam." So often does
one meet with these or similar words to indicate
the class of soil in which a plant should be
grown that not only do they appear in the
nature of a stock phrase, from which apparently
there is no departing, but the reader comes to
regard them lightly and as having but little
importance. In " The Hardy Flower Book "
(Jenkins) we are told that they " love cool and
shady places in peat and loam," a slight

departure from everyday recommendations, and
one which, in the briefest of sentences, indicates
the position these plants prefer as well as soil. This
to the amateur or beginner who knows but little of
the requirements of his plants, we regard as
important — educational in the highest degree. Such
information prevents a cool or moisture-loving plant
being placed in the sunny border to starve
at the outset, and affords encouragement to
the planter to continue his work. These
American Cowslips blossom in our gardens in
springtime, though for the most part in May and
early June. It cannot be said of any of them that
they possess great vigour ; D. Jeffreyi is the most
vigorous of them all. Their greater attributes
are perfect hardiness, freedom of
flowering when well suited, and a
grace and charm none will deny.
They are of the true deciduous
perennial class, i.e., they die
completely to the earth each year,
losing both leaves and stems in
the great majority of instances.
Whether such plants are more
complete in their hardiness because
of the fact might prove a moot
point ; in any case they lend
themselves to liberal mulchings
of soil or manure in a way
that many plants do not. It
will be seen, too, by a close
observance of the rootstock that
such mulchings are essential,
inasmuch as there is a marked
tendency in the established
examples to lift themselves
slightly above the soil. Hence
an inch-thick mulch of rich
soil — half loam, half well-decayed
manure — may be given each
year in early autumn with
advantage. So graceful and
pretty in effect are these plants
that, apart from a general re-
commendation to plant in cool
and shady places, they may
also be planted in cool recesses in
the rock garden where sheltering
bank or rock exists behind.
Upon more than one occasion
when experimenting with hardy
plants we have given them posi-
tions in the bog, treating them
in winter-time to free appli-
cations of liquid manure, the
result convincing us that the
twain were quite congenial to
their well-being.

Cultural Hints. — Generally
speaking, the plants are rather slow
to establish ; hence should not
frequently be disturbed. For this reason a deep
bed of rich soil should be prepared, and yotmg
plants, preferably strong seedlings, put out in
plenty. Where divided plants are employed,
the divisions should be made rather small, as these,
in common with not a few herbaceous subjects,
do not retake kindly to the soil when planted
in large clumps. The best methods of increase
are by seeds, which should be sown soon after
maturing, and by root cuttmgs, which is perhaps
the most expeditious of all. In the case of any
particularly good variety it is without an equal,
but it can only be employed advantageously
when the plants are dormant- As there is not a

m

THE GARDEN.

[August 23, igi;-^.

great variety of colour at present existing, hybridis-
ing may be found of interest to those engaging
in the improvement of hardy plants generally.
The best planting season is early autumn,
though it may be done at other seasons when
youthful plants are established m pots. The
followmg are some of the leading kinds now in
cultivation :

D. integrifolium. — A rather dwarf plant of
not more than 6 inches to 8 inches high, and,
without doubt, the richest coloured of all.
The predominant colour is deep crimson, the
base of the petals white, emerging from an orange-
coloured cup. Rocky Mountains. A deeper-
coloured variety of this plant is often catalogued
as splendens.

D. Jeflreyi. — The tallest and most vigorous
growing of the race, quite distinct in these respects
and in habit general, while resembling a rather
deep-coloured form of D. Meadia in its flowers.
Quite 2 feet in height in the ordinary way, the
plant reaches its fullest development in moist
clay. It succeeds admirably, however, in deep,
rich loam with abmidant moisture. A little of
the vigoiu: of this fine plant in the dwarfer and
more richly-coloured varieties would be very
acceptable. It is certainly worthy of the thought
of the intelligent hybridist.

D. Meadia (see illustration).^It is this species
Mid its varieties that are best known to cultivators.
It is a choice and elegant-growing herbaceous
plant of 12 inches or 15 inches high, more slender
or graceful of stem than the last named, and bearing
umbels of drooping flowers, as shown in the illus-
tration. The predominant colour of the petals
is purplish ; in some varieties it is blush or lilac.
There is also a white variety, D. M. alba. Distinc-
tive varieties bearing such names as elegans,
splendidum, lilacinum and giganteum also occur
in the catalogues of the specialists, and these,
planted separately in colours or in mixture, are
capable of providing pretty effects either in the
rock or bog garden.

HARDY ANNUALS FOR AUTUMN
SOWING.

It is doubtful whether there is any other class of
plants which by the expenditure of a few shillings in
the purchase of seeds will produce such a variety
and brilliant display of flowers for garden decoration
and cutting. Annuals are quite as valuable in the
small garden as in the large one. The time to sow
the seeds is a matter requiring consideration, and a
subject about which no hard-and-fast lines can
be followed. The nature of the soil in the garden,
whether heavy or light, the locality where the
garden is situated, and its position, whether favour-
ably placed for sun and screened from cold winds,
or very much shut in and enclosed, making it
unsuitable for some plants, are all matters that
need attention. There are points in favour
of both autumn and spring sowing, which it
will be just as well to survey before dealing in
detail with the different sorts or varieties of
annuals. First of all, let it be clearly understood
that if full advantage is to be taken of the great
value of hardy annuals in the garden, both autumn
and spring sowing of the seeds in some way or
another must be practised. By sowing the seeds
at different times and under several conditions, the
flowering season is considerably prolonged and the
varied requirements of the respective annuals
suited.

Cultivation on Heavy Soils. — Sowing seeds on
soils of a clayey nature which are heavy and wet
is not a profitable business in autumn. Failures
and losses are usually considerable. The most
notable exception are Poppies, which survive an
ordinary winter on heavy gromid very well. The
best method of procedure for annuals on sucli soils
is to set apart a border in a warm and sheltered posi-
tion, under a wall or fence with a south or south-
west exposure, in which to raise the seedlings.
Thorough drainage of the seed-bed in winter
being of the utmost importance, 6 inches to 9 inches
of the top soil should be removed and replaced
with a similar amount of clinkers and ashes. A
compost of light, sandy soil to the depth of about
six inches must be spread over this, so that the
seed-bed is raised well above the groimd-level,
similar to an Asparagus-bed, for instance. In
most instances this will be sufficient ; but if more
protection is required, a handy-man with a few
boards and several odd lights will soon fix up a
temporary frame. It wUl be preferable to place
the boards in position previous to sowing the seeds,
but the lights should only be used during bad
weather, e.g., severe frost, heavy rains, or snow.
Always remember that, however much care and
attention we devote to the culture of autumn-
sown annuals, they are hardy plants, and
must not be unduly coddled, simply protecting
them against the extremes of our variable British
climate.

Sowing in Light or Sandy Soil. — In gardens
where the soil is fairly light and well drained,
the most satisfactory results, with a few exceptions,
are obtained by sowing the seeds where it is intended
the plants should flower. This, however, is not
always possible, for the ground may not be avail-
able when it is time to sow the seeds, being occupied
with other plants still in bloom. Here, again,
the reserve border will be useful in which to raise the
seedlmgs, transferring them to their flowering
quarters a couple of months later, or in late March
and early April, whenever the ground is vacant.
There are two methods of sowing the seeds, one of
which is broadcast, that is, scattering the seeds
thinly and evenly all over the surface of the ground,
afterwards raking it thoroughly to bury the seeds.
With one or two exceptions, notably Sweet Peas,
this is the usual procedure when sowing the seeds
where the plants are to flower. Sowing in drills
or straight lines i inch to ij inches deep,
made with a draw hoe, is the preferable
method when transplanting is intended, filling in
the shallow drills by carefully raking over the
surface after sowing. Lifting the seedlings is
much easier for transplanting when they are in
straight lines.

The ground for transplanted seedlings should, if
possible, be prepared a month before it is required,
to allow it to settle down and be in good condition
for planting. Too much emphasis cannot be
laid on thm sowing. In the first place, it is waste
of seeds to sow otherwise, and then in a crowded
seed-bed the seedlings become drawn and sickly,
have more difficulty in surviving the winter,
take a lot more looking after before the flowermg
stage is reached, perhaps require a stake for
support, and certainly do not flower so freely
and make such a good show as a well-grown,
sturdy plant from birth. When a quantity of fine
seeds have to be sown, it considerably facilitates
the operation to mix the seeds with sand. In this
way a thin and even distribution of the seeds is
obtained when sowing broadcast.
{To be continued.)

TREES AND SHRUBS.

THE AUGUST-FLOWERING
CLEM ATISES.

BEAUTIFUL at whatever season ol the
year they flower, those Clematises
wliich blossom in August are particu-
I larly valuable, as at this season
there are comparatively few shrubs
flowering in the pleasure grounds and
shrubbery borders. As they vary in height from
about three feet to fifteen feet or more, there are
a variety of ways in which tliey may be effectively
planted. All those mentioned in these notes
require support of some kind, varying from a few
short Pea-sticks in the case of the shorter-growing
ones to tall rustic poles. These August-flowering
Clematises should be freely planted in town and
suburban gardens, being admirably adapted for
clothing fences, rustic arches, porches, screens,
trellis-work and arbours. They also seem to succeed
in the soils of such gardens, presumably because
the builder leaves plenty of mortar rubble and
broken bricks behind, to which Clematis plants
are partial.

The Lady's Bower (C. Viticella and its varieties)
has flowers of moderate size, and succeeds better
in most gardens than the larger-flowered C. Jack-
manii and C. lanuginosa types, not being liable to
collapse suddenly. Hardy and vigorous in growth,
the varieties of C. Viticella produce long, graceful
growths, which may be looped loosely to rustic
arches, fences and arbours, with pleasing results.
.\ good range of colour is available, there being
numerous shades of blue, red and pure white.
A selection of the best sorts should include alba,
rubra, atrorubens, Ville de Lyon, ascotensis, and
Viticella the type. There is a double variety,
flore pleno, but the flowers are not so attractive
as the single ones. Three rustic poles with spurs
fixed tripod fashion, 8 feet to 10 feet high, look
very effective in a shrubbery border clothed with
C. Viticella.

C. Pseudo-flammula is a delightful small-flowered,
upright-growing species, producing a wealth ol
creamy white blossoms in the way of C. recta.
It attains about five feet in height, requiring only
the support of a few Pea-sticks. A native of the
Caucasus, C. Pseudo-flammula is at its best the
first week in August, two to three weeks in advance
of that species. It is also not nearly so tall in
growth, not perhaps, strictly speaking, being a
climber. The flowers are deliciously fragrant,
suggesting Vanilla.

Quite a number of the smaller-flowered Clematises
blossom during the present month. Those with
the elegant, drooping, bell-shaped blossoms prettily
recurved at the edges deserve attention, being very
floriferous and easy to cultivate. Supported with
a few short Pea-sticks, C. integrifoha (purple),
varieties rosea and alba attain a height of 3 feet to
5 feet or more. C. globosa and C. intermedia are
evidently hybrids of C. integrifolia, resembhng that
species in growth and shape of the flowers, but the
latter are a little larger and have more substance.
Two hybrids (C. Viticella x C. integrifoha)
named C. Hendersonii and C. Clocheton, both
with dark purple flowers, are very free-flowering,
and attain a height of 6 feet in the case of C.
Hendersonii, but C. Clocheton, though not so tall,
is perhaps a little sturdier in growth. In the
graceful, drooping poise of the flowers the influence
of C. integrifolia is readily seen. C. Durandii
is another C. integrifolia hybrid, but in this case

August 23, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

421

the large, flat flowers, 5 inches

across, take after tlie large-flowered

parent. C. Durandii has purple

flowers, while another ?ort similar

in form named C. pallida has

lighter-coloured blossoms. Both are

free in growth and adapted for

arches, pillars and clothing tall

fences.
C. Flammula rubro-marginata is

a dainty, small-flowered variety

with white blossoms prettily mar-
gined with rosy purple. The

slender, trailing growths may be

utilised for clothing porches, ve-
randahs. &c.., where the deliciously

fragrant blossoms will be appre-
ciated.

It is during August that the

Jackmanii Clematises are at their

best. Though hundreds are planted

every year, their successful culti-
vation is not general. Observations

of plants in a thriving condition

suggest that they do not like the

hot sun shining on the stems.

Deep planting is another fault, and

the soil, though rich, should

be well drained and contain

plenty of lime — mortar rubble,

for instance. There are several

ways in which the sun shining on

the bark of the stem may be

prevented. Plant on a west or north-west aspect or on a fence with shrubs in the foreground to

against a porch, verandah, wall, or fence. Associate hide the lower part of the stem. A selection of

with the Clematis a white Jessamine or Honey- the best of Jackman's Clematises are Jackmanii,

suckle, and plant them in the shrubbery borders violet purple ; J. superba, very dark violet purple ;

where the shrubs are 4 feet to 5 feet in height, J. Snow White, pure white ; J. rubra, dark velvety

red ; Gipsy Queen, velvety
purple ; and Mme. E. .^ndre,
bright velvety red.

Though flowering for some
two months past, there are
still a considerable number of
the showy rich yellow flowers
on C. orientalis var. tangutica.
These are followed by flufTy
balls of seeds, which add con-
siderably to their attraction.
Rambling over a few rough
sticks placed against a fence or
screen, this Clematis may be
expected to thrive.

THE FRAGRANT VIRGIN's BOWER (CLEMATIS FLAMMULA) GROWING
OVER RUSTIC POLES.

wall where the soil is dry. Ex-
perience with the Eucryphias at
Kew points to these conditions
being unfavourable, for while a
little protection may be desir-
able, moisture and shelter from
the fiercest rays of the sun are
more important.

The plant illustrated, gromng
in a bed of the Mediterranean
Heath 2j feet to 3 feet high,
is evidently happy in its sur-
roundings. The Heaths keep the
ground cool and shade the lower
part of the plant. Shelter from
intense sun-heat is afforded by
tall trees growing at a distance,
though this point does not seem
so important as the prevention
nf the baking of the surface
soil.

The Kew plants are growing
in sandy loam, with a little
pest and leaf-mould worked in
previous to planting. An occa-
sional top - dressing of decayed
leaves is beneficial. The largest
bush is 10 feet high and clothed
with white flowers zj inches to
3 inches across, not unlike a
large single Rose, with a tuft of
stamens in the centre. E. pinnati-
folia is an evergreen, and may
be propagated by layering or cuttings and seeds,
which occasionally ripen in this country. One
I'loks forward to the time when this rare Chilian
shrub becomes a thing of beauty in most gardens
of this country. A. O.

CLEMATIS VITICELr,.\ ALBA, A VIGOROUS-GROWING
VARIETY SUITABLE FOR CLOTHING LOW TREES.

A LITTLE -KNOWN
CHILIAN SHRUB.

(EUCRYPHIA PINNATIFOLIA.)

The illustration on page 422
shows a beautiful bush of this
comparatively rare Chilian shrub
flowering at Kew. Although
introduced as long ago as 1862.
it has never become common in
gardens, presumably because
many of the bushes have not
been planted in positions favour-
able to their growth. Naturally,
when planting choice treasures
such as this Eucryphia, what
are supposed to be the most
favourable spots are chosen.
Probably in most instances
this shrtib lias been planted
at the foot of a sunny south

CLEMATIS PSEUDO FLAMMULA. THE FLOWERS ARE
DELICIOUSLY FRAGRANT SUGGESTING VANILLA.

422

THE GARDEN.

[August 23, 1913.

TH E GREENHOUSE.

ON

this puzzle for us amateurs ; and also the other
question of nomenclature, on which I touched in

SCENTED PELARGONIUMS. ^y 1°"^^' f'<^\^- I l°«i^ '° Wisley to take these

matters m hand, for I consider the classification

(Continued from page 412.) ^^^j proper naming of specimens the two main

3. Classification. — ^This brings me to one of stumbling-blocks in forming a collection. Mean-

the great difficulties of forming a collection. There while, let me give the intending collector this piece

are a certain nuraber of groups of Pelargoniums of advice : " Never discard any real old variety

whose parentage and antiquity are beyond dispute.
Of these the cucullatums head the list with P.
cucullatum of the date 1690, which a lady from
the Cape told me at the Royal International
Horticultural Exhibition grows all over Table
Mountain. This I believe to be the parent of
most of the show Pelargoniums. The next oldest
group seem to be the capitatums,
of which the somewhat rare variety
I have is, I believe, the ancestor,
introduced also in 1690. Roseum,
graveolens and blandfordianum are
all well - known relatives, with
others too numerous to mention.
Then there is the large group of
citriodorums, delightful, every one
of them, to sight and smell. P.
grossularioides, introduced 1731,
is the oldest species I have been
able so far to unearth. The
quercifoliums and their near rela-
tions the denticulatums (where
does one end and the other begin ?),
with quercifolium minus, a true
Cape species, introduced 1774, and
denticulatum (1789), at the head
of the family tree, form another
large and well-defined group. And
there is the modern group of
Shrubland hybrids I have already
mentioned. No one could ever
class them with anything but
scented Pelargoniums.

These groups are all distinct
from each other, and fairly easy
to discriminate. But many others
are difficult to place, unless their
parentage can be traced. And
even so it is not a light task, as,
according to Sweet, they were
hybridised in and in. But it is
when one comes to try to draw
the line between the tuberous-
rooted Cape Pelargoniums on one
end of the scale and the modern
show Pelargoniums at the other,
and make up one's mind as to how
many and which are to be included
in a collection of scented Pelar-
goniums, that the fun begins. To
start with the Cape Pelargoniums.
They are undoubtedly the ori-
ginal importations, but many of
them — bicolor, ardens, fulgidum,
pulverulentum — are absolutely scentless. Yet if
you study the pedigree of, say, pyrethrifolium
(Scarlet Pet), you will find that one parent is
fulgidum. If you therefore include the child,
why ostracise the parent ?

Again, we turn to the other end of the story.
Half the old show Pelargoniums are hybrids from
a scented Pelargonium on one side ; and P.
cucullatum, as I said before, is responsible for
a very long family. So where one ends and the
other begins is more than I can say, and wiser heads
than mine must determine the limits of scented
Pelargoniums and show Pelargoniums, and solve

of Pelargonium you come across. It may not
be a true scented Pelargordum, but it may help
to throw light on the pedigree and development
of some hitherto puzzling specimen." Before
leaving this part of my subject I should like to call
your attention to those specimens of the allied
types of Geraniaces, which I alluded to just now

THE BEAUTIFUL EUCRYPHIA PINNATIFOLIA NOW FLOWERING IN
THE HEATH GARDEN AT KEW. [See page 42I.)

as off-shoots of our main subject. Some of them
wUl illustrate what I meant as to the difficulty of
knowing what to include in a collection.

(i) P. tetragonum. I find this is given in Sweet
as a Jenkinsonia — J. tetragona, date 1774. Its
leaves are undoubtedly sweet-scented, so I include
it in my collection.

(2) P. camosum (Kew) is Sweet's Otidia camosa.
A good distinct specimen of the Otidias. Sweet
says of it, Vol. I., page 98 : " This plant, which
is so very different from any we have yet published,
is proposed by Mr. Lindley to form a distinct genus,
which we have adopted ; to it also belong P.

dasycaule, P. ceratophyllum, P. altemans (P.
crithmifolium) and some others." Up till now
I have acquired no specimens of the Hoareas,
Grevilleas, &c.

(3) Ciconiums are, I think, undoubtedly the
forbears of our modem Zonals. Ciconium umbel-
latum is interesting as being a curious and, I
believe, early form, but I have no idea what the
date of introduction is. C. crenatum (1820 about)
is a true Cape species, of which I possess a small
plant, but unluckily it has refused to flower in time
for to-day.

(4) P. fulgidum, which also refuses to flower
when I want it to, is parent of several of the showiest
scented Pelargoniums, and is a case in point of

what I was saying just now of
the difficulty of drawing the line
between scented and unscented.
RoUison's Unique, Ardens and
Scarlet Pet are all its progeny,
crossed with some other varieties.

(5) P. gibbosum, the P. glaucum
of Kew, is another I include as a
sweet-scented variety, for it is very
fragrant, but at night only. It is
a true Cape species of an early
date, 1712.

(6) P. Godfrey's Pet. This is
the most interesting modern hybrid
I have ever come across, for after
careful study I have come to the
conclusion that Messrs. Godfrey of
Exmouth have happened by chance
on an old cross. This variety
resembles in every respect the P.
obscurum of Sweet, Vol. I., page 89.
(Parentage unknown, raised from
seed by Sir R. C. Hoare in 1821.)

(7) P. Miss Dorrien-Smith. This
is interesting as one of the old
varieties of the Unique section.
It is the P. breesianum of Sweet,
Vol. I., page 64, and a hybrid
between P. angustifolium or querci-
folium and one of the round-
leaved varieties unknown.

4. Cultivation. — Cuttings. — The
best months to take cuttings are
February and August, and all
the citriodorums strike easiest in
February.

Soil. — As a broad general rule,
sandl peat, or leaf-mould, and
turfy loam are best. Sweet's
proportions are equal parts of
sand, pe^t and turfy loam. But
we find bne part of leaf-mould
to three of turfy loam, and one
shovelful of silver sand to a
barrow-load of this, a very useful
and successful mixture. For the
real tuberous-rooted Capes you
want more sand, and to pot them less firmly.
Bottom-heat is not necessary. We always strike
ours in a cool greenhouse. I forgot to say, under
the head of cuttings, that there are several of the
Cape species which" can only be propagated by
tubers ; such are P. triste, P. pulverulentum and
P. ardens.

Watering. — This requires great care. When in
full growth, water may be given fairly freely ; but
as soon as the plants begin to rest, err on the dry
side ; in fact, according to Sweet, the tuberous-
rooted varieties only require watering two or tlire;:
times during the whole winter !

August 23, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

423

Draughts. — ^These are one of the worst enemies
to Pelargoniums, and must be carefully guarded
against. Draughts encourage the most troublesome
pest there is — aphis.

Pesls. — .\phis and thrip. For the former we
fumigate with nicotine and sjTinge with plain
water ; (or the latter we sponge the leaves with
an insecticide, such as paraffin solution.

Since delivering the foregoing lecture, Mr. J.
Hudson, V.M.H., has most kindly sent me the
following notes on the cultivation of scented and
Cape Pelargoniums, the result of his long experi-
ence in growing this class of plants : " Miss Troyte-
Bullock's remiirks upon the soil induce me to say
tliat I find finely-granulated lime to be excellent ;
it assists in keeping the soil sweet and open. Firm
potting is most essential for the durability and
healthy growth of the plants. In the winter I
find it much better to keep the soil quite on the
dry side in dealing with our large specimen plants,
and small plants require a little more water in
proportion ; but it is better to keep them resting
during the dull season of the year. It is a pity that
no records are, so far as I know, available as to
the historj- of many of these most interesting,
if not showy, plants. When the present collec-
tion at Wisley is arranged into something like
order, we may probably get to know more about
them — their needs, their uses and their varied
characteristics."

be placed in frames from which frost can be excluded
and given abundance of air whenever it is possible,
«r another 3 inches or 4 inches of covering material
may be added to make them more frost-proof
if they are to remain in the open. As I am now
dealing entirely with Daffodils as pot plants, I
would never advise anyone to try to get them
in flower very early ; almost invariably they are
rather drawn and weak in the foliage, and need
too much staking to look really well. In my
opinion the third or fourth week in January is
quite soon enough. From this time onwards
there should be no difficulty in havTng a good
succession of bloom.

Making suggestions about the varieties to grow
is a difficult matter, for the choice is very great
and everyone does not like the same thing equally
well. My best plan is to indicate some of the
most satisfactory doers that I had myself last
year. In the front rank I always place W. P.
Milner, which is a dwarf, slender plant of the
trumpet section and which under glass comes
almost white ; 5-inch or sj-inch pots are quite
large enough to grow it in. .\s a contrast I mention

DAFFODI L NOTES.

Daffodils in Pots. — The Editor has recently
received a letter from a reader asking if I grow
my choice Daffodils out of doors or in pots imder
glass. As I imderstand the writer, he seems
surprised that I adopt the first method. He
obviously thinks the second way preferable. I
cannot agree with him. The strain imposed upon
the bulbs when they are grown in this non-natural
manner is great, and, even with the greatest care
in their treatment after the flowers are over, there
is a most marked difference in their sire and
general appearance compared with those grown
in the natural way. I would advise everj-one
to adopt the out-of-door system as their normal
practice. It is a long way the best for the bulbs,
and after one has given a big price for an expensive
kind, one wishes to do ever\-thing that can be done
for it. I have somewhat enlarged upon and
emphasised my answer, because I am going to
write of Daffodils in pots and try to persuade every-
one who has not already done so to grow some
of the better varieties in this way, not because I
consider it the best for them, but because of the
enjoyment which it affords us. I believe there
is a great future for this method of culture, and
that it mU become verj- popular when once its
possibilities are realised ; but it must be remem-
bered that even with the very best treatment
the bulbs suffer, and that before they are used again
they must have at least one year in the open ground.
Daffodils make splendid pot plants, and they are
easier to manage than either Hyacinths or Tulips.
Two essentials for success are (i) early potting
and (2) choice of suitable varieties.

Bulbs should be potted as soon as they can be
had from the dealers, and then the pots should
be stood on a hard bottom and the spaces between
them filled up with sand or fibre, the whole being
coN-ered with the same to a depth of about three
inches. Later on, about the middle of November,
when hard frosts may be expected, the pots may

Jonson, one of the most satisfactory of all the
older Poet introductions of Mr. Engleheart.
Another group which has great value for pot
culture is that of the Leedsii. Fairy Queen is
now becoming better known. I might call it the
" Autocrat " in the same way as I style Countess of
Southesk the Frank Miles of the section. Both
are excellent and mil not disappoint. The
" giants " must have a great future. I look forward
to the time when we shall have warm apricots like
Thora ; yellows like Evangeline, Longfellow,
Louise L. Linton, and several of larger build not
yet in commerce, but whose place can be supplied
now by Lady Margaret Boscawen ; and ivory
whites or very pale primroses, such as Empire,
White Countess, Potent and St. Olaf. These
" flowers of purest ray serene " are now carefully
guarded, and need a golden or a silver key to
liberate them. Some day a copper one will free
them, and then they will be everyone's plants, like
Golden Spur and Emperor. Among the bicolor
and self incomparabilises and Barriis I must not
omit Autocrat, Homespun, Solfatare, Seagull,
Incognita and Leonie. Before I conclude this

.\ FLOWERING SPRAY OF EUCRYPHI.\ PINNATIFOLI.\.

Olympia, an immense yellow Ajax, not perhaps
as sleek and smooth as a judge would like at a show,
but a wonderfully effective and striking bloom.
.Another good variety of the same type, but with
paler colouring and rather more of a show style
of flower, is Stromboli. This variety is not half
as much known as it shoidd be. Few " come "
so easily as this does under glass. It is almost
superfluous to sing the praises of Weardale Perfec-
tion in pots. It is one of the very best. Coronet
is another kind that should have more recognition
from growers. It, too, " comes " easily and
early. It is a medium-sized bicolor trumpet,
with the yellow of a peculiarly deep shade. Fire-
brand always does well. Now that it can be
bought so cheaply, everyone should order a few
for trial. The red does not bum imder glass, or,
if it does, it is not perceptible for a considerable
time. In this category I include such varieties
as Blackwell, Lucifer, Crown Prince, Robert
Browning, Topaz, Southern Star, Castile, and Ben

list I must put in a special plea for Queen of Spain.
In the low pots that I am so fond of, nothing looks
better, and I have found that it can be grown
from year to year in this way if the bulbs are well
and carefully dried off and then repotted. I had
almost forgotten to mention the Tazettas and
Tazetta hybrids, or Poetaz. The former old-time
favourites are not nearly so much grown as they
were twenty years and more ago. They are very
easy to manage, but they must be procured every
year from Holland for the best results. Bazelman
Major, Maestro and a new one. Dr. Holland, that
I have lately unearthed are three that might well
be given a trial. Of the Poetaz I am very fond of
Irene, Stuiset and Jaune k Merveille as yellows,
and of Aspasia, Orient and .Alsace as whites.
The latter, on account of its earliness, is very
valuable. If .Aspasia is grown, Elvira is not wanted.
The charm of Orient is the delicate red edge of its
cup, which is always very noticeable when it is
grown under glass. Joseph Jacob.

424

THE GARDEN.

[August 23, 1913.

CUT FLOWERS.

Their Value in the House.

« N authority one cannot but respect thinks
/% it dreadfully barbarous, not to say

/ % wicked, to pick flowers. This is what

/— ^m he says, or rather one of the things
* *• he says : " I hold that a flower cut

from its plant and placed in a v:ise is
as a scalp on the walls of a wigwam." He goes on
to say even worse things; I say " worse " because
Ihey make you feel uncomfortable. " The cut
flower," he declares, " is no longer part of a mani-
festation of the will of Nature ; rather is it a
slave — beautiful, it may be, but
branded and sou'-destroyed." But
is not this going too far ? If
none of us gathered flowers to
enjoy them indoors (perhaps wear-
mg them is different), a large
amount of innocent pleasure would
be lost. It is not as if it hurt
the flowers to pick them. Judicious
use of the knife and scissors helps
a plant instead of hindering it, and
some flowers seem really made to
be picked. Sweet Peas, for instance,
the more you pick them the faster
they grow. And did not a poet
say of Sweet Peas that they always
seem " on tip-toe, ready for a
flight" ? It is seldom worth while
nowadays to save seed ; so what is
to be gained by letting each dainty
blossom fade away upon its stem
like a pretty girl unappreciated ?

A word of excuse is said by our
critic for those users of cut flowers,
indoors and otherwise, who have
the misfortune to live in London.
In such cases, gathered flowers, he
admits, " carry the mind to beau-
tiful associations." But is there
nothing to be said for cut flowers
in the case of country houses ?
Sometimes the rooms in these are
dark and low-pitched, and want
brightening up as much as any
London ones with their big win-
dows and white paint. For our
own parts we confess without
shame that we even plant certain
flowers with no other object thaii
that of gathering the blossoms
they give us to adorn such rooms
as we think would be the better
for them.

In one or two rooms we fancy
nothing looks so well as pink.
Accordingly we take care to have
plenty of Shirley Poppies, Monthly Roses, pink
Sweet Peas, pink Geraniums, rosy Mallows and
all the other pretty pink flowers we can think of,
always ready to bring in. It is quite an art worth
studying, that of growing such flowers as are best
for indoor use — the bold plants that belong to
hall and staircase, such as Foxgloves, giant Poppies,
tall Lilies, Lupines and so on ; the bright but
scentless flowers that are most suitable for the
dinner-table ; and the host of other charming
flowers one likes to have in living-rooms.

The delicate shaded pinks and rose colours of
Shirley Poppies are so delightful standing in moss
on dinner-tables, or indeed anywhere, that we
lesort to a cunning way of getting them before

anyone else has them. How ? Well, nothing
simpler. We scatter seed on a fair-sized plot
about the middle of August. By the following
May the flowers will be ready, and will go on
blooming till July or longer. The flowers, grown
thus, are much hardier than when sown in spring
for summer gathering ; their stems are thicker
and stronger, and the petals of the blossoms do
not drop. In fact, the whole character of the
Poppy seems altered ; no doubt it pays for
bracmg treatment. How human !

Another way of looking at the subject is to
remember the pleasure given us by the cut flowers
sent from abroad. Those wicker baskets so

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

AWARDS OF MERIT.
Gladiolus Craig-a-Noor. — This is a very hand-
some red-flowered variety whose lower petals
are marked by a few faint white lines. The size
of the flower and its form suggest influence from
G. princeps. The spike is well filled. From
Messrs. Kelway and Son, Langport.

Dahlia Dungeness (Collarette).— The florets are
coloured a rich scarlet, the collarette or inner
petals surrounding the disc yellow. From Messrs.
Dobbie aiid Co., Edinburgh.

Caladium Mme. Renee Marot. —
This rather striking red - leaved
variety has a copious spotting ol
white, which renders it attractive
and distinct. From Mr. Hoffman,
Tower House, Streatham.

Lysinotus warleyensis. — Anew
Chinese plant of evergreen, shrubby
habit. The exhibited example was
not more than 9 inches high, the
white, Pentstemon-like flowers issu-
ing from the axils of the leaves on
slender pedicels. Internally the
flowers, which are i J inches long or
thereabouts, are marked by three
purplish lines. Its complete hardi-
ness has yet to be determined.
From Miss Willmott, Warley Place.
Agapanthus Weilligii. — ^The dis-
tinctive features of this rather good
African Lily are that the flowers
are nearly cylindrical, being slightly
expanded at the mouth, and droop-
ing instead of erect or semi-erect as
in the typical kind. This unusual
feature shows the rich blue flowers
to advantage. A distinct and
good plant. From Mr. A. Worsley,
Isleworth.

The foregoing awards were
made by the Royal Horticultural
Society on August 12 at the fort-
nightly exhibition.

ARBOREA GRANDIS, A NEW SHRUB WITH MASSES OF
CREAMY WHITE FLOWERS.

carefully packed with treasures of Mimosa, Car-
nation and Anemone — what messages they bring us !

The plumed Munosa, of Spring's gifts finest.
With a golden gleam and a golden voice,
As if from the country of dreams divinest.
Cries clear, " Rejoice.*'

And the white Narcissus that poets hononr.
With red gold rimming a pearly cup.
And a silver light, as of stars upon her.
Chimes sweet, " Look up I "

To those who suffer from over-sensitiveness in
the matter of cut flowers (and we do sympathise
with them in a way) may we suggest that if the
flowers themselves were consulted, we are con-
vinced they would never grudge the happiness
they give us. Frances A. Bakdswell.

A NEW CHINESE SHRUB.

(SPIR^A ARBOREA GRANDIS.)

This is a very strong-growing
shrubby Spirasa belonging to the
Sorbaria section of the genus. S.
arborea is a variable species, and
several of the most distinct forms,
in addition to the subject of this
note, have been given varietal
names. They are closely allied to
the well-known S. Aifchisonii from
Afghanistan and the Indian S. lindleyana. Growing
8 feet or more in height, S. arborea grandis has large,
attractive, pinnate leaves and small, creamy white
flowers. These are borne in large, terminal panicles,
roughly triangular in shape, 12 inches to 15 inches
long, and 9 inches to 12 inches broad at the base.
The flowers are closely arranged in the panicles.
This is one of the many beautiful shrubs introduced
from China by Mr. E. H. Wilson. Though closely
allied to S. Aitchisonii and S. lindleyana, it will
be an addition to our shrubs, as the flowers are
borne some three weeks in advance of these two
species. S. arborea grandis received an award of
merit from the Royal Horticultural Society when
exhibited by the Hon. Vicary Gibbs on July 2T.

AuousT 23, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

425

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO GROW ARUM LILIES.

THE leaves ol these plants are handsome,
and form a very appropriate setting
(or the flowers. Even when there
are no blooms out, the plants help
to furnish a greenhouse or conservatory
from autumn-time to Easter, and
bometimes even later. Strong plants will bear
three or four flowers during that period. In
exceptional cases they bear five or six. Some
cultivators retain the plants in their pots through-
out the summer months, keeping them dry at the
roots all the time, and then shake away the soil
■ind repot them, dividing some, but retaining others
intact, .\gain, there are cultivators who plant
out the Arums directly they have finished flowering,
'rhere is a great difference between the two sets
ol plants. Those retained in flower- pots make
ilwarfer growth in their early stages than those
tliat arc planted out. This difference may be
noted in the two sets of sketches, A and B respec-
tively. Without going into the merits of the two
methods of growing the plants during the summer-
time, I will only say here that it is advisable to
retain a few plants in pots every year, as un-
doubtedly those in the pots commeiu-c to flower
earlier than the others, .uul so prolong tlu' supply
of blooms considerably.

The Treatment of the Plants in Pots.— In
order that the soil may be kept dry aromid the
loots while the plants are being rested, the pots
Hie laid on their sides. About ten days before
they are turned out, put the pots upright and water
the soil to induce the plants to make a little new
growth. In the meantime prepare a nimiber of
pots varying in size, as shown in Fig. A. No. i
denotes drainage, and No. 2 shows the depth
of the potting when that work is done. Pots
from 3j inches to 7J inches across must be got
ready. No. 3 shows the ball of soil and the new
leaf-stalks. In reducing tii<' soil around the roots

I >^f(^ \

^

DIVIDING .\ND RKPOTTING THE .\RUM LILY.

of this and similar clumps, and that from large
clumps lifted from the open grovmd, use a stick
as shown in No. 4, first detaching the old crocks,
and then gradually working away the old soil and
any decayed roots. The new, fleshy roots must
be carefully preser\'ed from injury. If potted
intact, with only a portion of the old soil removed,
No. 5 shows the condition of the plant when it
has been duly prepared. After dividing a fairly

THE LARGE I'L.ANT IN THE CENTRE, IF

SMALLER

DIVIDED, WILL MAKE MANY USEFUL
PLANTS.

large plant, the separate portions will resemble
Nos. 6, 7, 8 and 9, No. 9 being the crown of the
old plant. The inexperienced cultivator will
see at once how necessary it is to repot the various
parts in pots of difierent sizes. I may say that
it is rarely necessary to repot Arum Lilies
durhig the winter months. If potted judiciously
at first, they will grow nicely through the autumn,
winter and early spring months, as they are good
subjects to feed.

Fig. B shows how large plants should be lifted
from the open border and divided. The best time
to divide the plants is when they are first put out ;
but if the work is not done then, it must be when
they are lifted. Drive in the garden fork at a
suitable distance from the plant, sc as to preserve
as many roots as possible. The different parts
of such a large plant when duly divided are shown
at Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. If the big plant. No. i,
were potted whole as lifted, its flowering strength
would quickly diminish. The yotmg plants in
smaller pots are more serviceable. Nos. 7, 8,
9 and 10 respectively represent the different parts
forming a good compost, namely, loam, leaf-soil,
rotted manure and sand. After potting, keep
the plants in a cool place outside ; then transfer
them to a frame before frost comes and, in due
time, to the greenhouse. G. G.

PARSLEY FOR SUCCESSION.

There is such a demand for Parsley at all seasons
that too great care cannot be taken to secure a
good succession. The end of June is the most
difficult time to cater for ; but August sowing ought
to provide against a shortage at the time men-
tioned, this being followed by a very early spring
sowing in boxes. If sown now, the seedlings
should be ready for thimiing in a week or two.

426

THE GARDEN.

[August 23, 1913

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Fuchsias. — In fairly sheltered positions Fuchsias
are one of the best subjects for making a display
during the summer months. Certainly they require
a fair amount of moisture all through the season,
but given this and a sprinkling of artificial manure
every two or three weeks, they continue to make
a show till quite late in the summer.

Propagation. — For next season's display the
present is a good time to put in cuttings. These
should be from the young growing tips, preferably
shoots that are not blooming. Very light sandy
soil is essential,, and if eight or ten cuttings
are placed in a 4i-inch pot and plunged in the
propagating-frame, they should make root quickly.
Potting off into small pots may be done before
the winter, when the young plants may be wintered
on a shelf in the intermediate house. With such
treatment they should make plants quite 4 feet
high by planting-out-timc ne.xt season, and these
young plants bloom much more continuously
than do the old ones that may have been dried
off during the winter.

Montbretias. — These continue to make a good
show, and t'l prolong the flowering period they
must not be allowed to get dry. A good soaking
or two of liquid manure will do much towards
keeping them going. The new variety Star of
the East, exhibited so well last year, will be much
sought after, and it will be a welcome addition
to this already beautiful class of plants.

Dahlias are now blooming freely, and to keep
up the show give regular soakings of liquid manure.
In some varieties the shoots will require a certain
amount of thinning for the blooms to develop
nicely, and all must be kept well tied to the stakes,
or much damage is likely to be done by the gales
of wind which we usually get during September.

Plants in Pots.

Bulbs. — If not already done, the list of forcing
bulbs should be made out and the order despatched
at once. If early bloom is wanted, it is necessary
that the bulbs should be potted as soon as they
can be procured from the nurseryman. Presuming
that at least part of the Roman Hyacinths and
Paper-White Narcissi are potted up, the next
bulbs to pot should be Tulips Van Thol, Mon Tresor,
Yellow Prince, Prince of Austria and Rose Gris-
de-Lin ; Narcissi Golden Spur, Double Van Sion,
princeps and Poeticus oniatus.

Chrysanthemums. — By this date most of the
buds of the large-flowering varieties will have
been taken, and the plants will need a good deal
of looking after in respect to water and manure,
the latter bemg given at least twice a week.

Top-Dressing. — As an inducement to keep the
roots active, a top-dressing of loam, well-rotted
manure and a little artificial manure should be given
the plants, just sprinkling a handful or two over the
surface of each pot and watering it in with a coarse
rose. This may be repeated once or twice before
the plants are placed indoors, and helps to sustain
them in no uncertain manner.

Nerines. — Any plants that require potting
may be done now, before they commence to throw
up their flower-spikes, and these plants certainly
look best when one or two bulbs are cultivated in a
small pot. Loam and peat in about equal pro-
portions, with a little charcoal and sand, seems
to suit them well. After watering in, very little
more water will be required till they commence
making new roots, which they will soon do if
placed in a house not too dry.

The Vegetable Garden.

Tomatoes. — Where these are not ripening as
fast as one would like, the foliage may be partially
removed ; but if this is done, rio more water
should be given, or it may tend to crack the ripening
fruit. To avoid this, the fruit should be gathered
as soon as it commences to show colour, and if
stored as advised in a previous calendar, it will
be found to colour well.

Marrows. — Many of the earlier-planted Marrows
will by this time have finished fruiting. Later
plants must be treated liberally, according to

the weather conditions, so that the crop may be
prolonged as late as possible.

Gourds that are swelling on pergolas must be
supported by soft strifig, or the heavier ones
by webbing. Keep the growing points tied in
regularly, though it will be found that after about
this date growth will be less rapid than heretofore.
Mildew may prove a trouble to the plants, and, where
it appears, either dust with sulphur or spray with
one or other of the advertised fungicides.

Celery. — The earliest rows should have the
e.irthing completed, as in most establishments
good, crisp Celery is in demand by the end of
September. After a thorough good watering
and feeding of the later rows, earthing may be
commenced, taking every care to get all decaying
leaves and side shoots removed before pulling
the soil up to the plants ; and though the soil must
be made firm at the base, it is necessary to leave
the top free, so that the centre of the plant may
come up freely, at least till the last earthing takes
place.

Fruits Under Glass.

Late Grapes. — It is still not too late to feed very
late Grapes, and I have seen excellent results
where the Vines have been given a light dressing
or two of nitrate of soda. It certainly helps them
along wonderfully, though the danger lies in giving
them an overdose, especially if the skins have
been allowed to get tough through a none too
generous treatment.

Hardy Fruit.

Summer Pruning. — Where, through stress of
work, this has not been completed, every effort
should be made to finish it off at once, so that
the fruit may have the full benefit of light and sun
during the few remaining weeks the fruit is on
the trees, to say nothing of the extra size attained
bv the fruit when the sap has been diverted from
the wood to it.

Black Currants. — After the fruit is gathered,
the bushes may have the whole or part of the old
fruiting branches removed ; this will let light and
air into the young growths, and a better crop of fruit
may be looked forward to next year than when all
of the wood is allowed to remain till the winter
or spring. Thomas Stevenson.

(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta. Esq.)

Wobiini Place Gardens, Addlcstone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.
Japanese Irises. — These are never happier
than when treated as water-side plants, but such
treatment is not absolutely necessary. In common
with many of the genus having rhizomes, they
enjoy a good baking towards the end of the season,
and it has been found a good plan to go over the
plants about this time and with a fork gently raise
the roots slightly above the ground-level, treading
them into position again about the end of September.

The Bulb Order. — As the bulb lists are all to
hand, there is nothing to be gained, but rather
the risk of loss, by delay in placing orders. Every-
one should invest in some Tulips. Those who wish
for an early display must invest in the early section,
in which the following can be recommended :
Crimsons and scarlets — Belle Alliance, Carmine
BriUiant, Fireflame, Scarlet Pottebakker, Prince
of Austria, Rembrandt and Vermilion Brilliant.
Yellows — Canary Bird, Chrysolora, Golden Queen,
Yellow Pottebakker and Prince de Ligny. Pinks —
Couleur Ponceau, Proserpine. Rose Gris-de-Lin
and Wapen Van Leiden. Odd colours — Duchesse
de Parme, Keizerskroon and Thomas Moore.
Whites (which are not much wanted) — Potte-
bakker White, White Pigeon and White Swan.
Good May-flowering or Cottage varieties at easy
prices are Blushing Bride (Shandon Bells), Bouton
d'Or, gesneriana major, Golden Crown, macro-
speila, Picotee and The Fawn. For richness of
colour and general excellence, however, the
Darwins are unequalled.

The Rose Garden.

Cuttings. — With the exception of the ramblers,

few Roses are now grown on their own roots.

The Hybrid Perpetuals, ramblers in general and

what are generally known as garden Roses can

all be readily propagated by cuttings m the open
border, and from now onwards until the end o(
September is the best time to carry out the
work. The cuttings of half-ripened wood, not
too gross, should be made about nine inches long,
and should be taken with a heel. Prepare in the
ordinary way with a sharp knife, and insert about
six inches deep in sandy soil, pressed firm. Water
well, and if the border is not shady, shade for a
week or two.

The Rock Garden.

Potting on Cuttings. — Cuttings as they become
rooted should be potted off into small pots, either
to be planted in autumn or spring. Keep them
iu a close frame till they take to their pots, after
which gradually inure to the open air when the
weather is at all good.

Primula littoniana. — Those who have not yet
mcluded tliis lovely Primula among their collec-
tion, I would advise to do so. I saw it in grand
form the other week among Mrs. de Pree's fine
collection at Saughton House, Corstorphine.

Plants Under Glass.

Hyacinths. — The orders for these must now
be placed, as the best bulbs are not usually kept
till the last. The following are a few trustworthy
varieties : Blues — Blue Baron Van Tuyll, Czar
Peter, Grand Lilias, Grand Maitre and King of the
Blues. Reds and pinks — Amy, General Pelissier,
Gertrude. Lady Derby, Norma and Queen Wilhel-
mina. Whites — Baron Van Tuyll, La Candeur,
La Grandesse, Mr. PlimsoU and Snowball.

Tulips. — As these are largely grown for cutting,
a few good varieties in quantity are all that is
required for the purpose. The following can be
recommended : Scarlets — Belle Alliance and Carmine
Brilliant. Crimsons — Rembrandt and Crimson
King. Yellows — Chrysolora and Yellow Prince.
Pinks — Rose Gris-de-Lin and Couleur Ponceau.
Miscellaneous — Prince of Austria, Thomas Moore
and Keizerskroon.

Daffodils. — Whether for cutting or for con-
servatory decoration, these are highly decorative.
As with the other classes of bulbs. I only indicate
varieties which are within the reach of all. Golden
Spur, for a first batch ; Emperor, Empress, Mme.
de Graaff, Mme. Plemp, Glory of Leiden, princeps,
Telamonius Van Sion, Barrii conspicuus. Sir
Watkin and Poeticus ornatus. The Polyanthus
Narcissus and Poetaz hybrids are also worthy of
attention.

Fruits Under Glass.

Late Tomatoes. — If sufficient fruits are set,
stop the leading shoots and also all laterals.
Defoliation is not to be recommended, but the fruits
should have all the available light possible.

Late Melons. — These must have close attention,
and, as the solar heat declines, more firing will be
required, especially on wet or dull days. Pinch
away all superfluous shoots, but expose as much
foliage to the full light as possible, or the swelling
of the fruits may be arrested. Lack of sufficient
water at the root means imdersized, inferior fruit.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Storing Nets. — .\s nets go out of use they
should be bimdled up and stored for the winter,
but care should be taken that they are thoroughly
dry before being stored.

Strawberries. — If the weather continues dry
for any length of time, newly-planted Strawberries
should be well watered, as their roots have not
yet penetrated far into the soil. Any plantations
of old plants to be retained for another year should
be cleared of rimners and have the Dutch hoe rim
through them. Take runners for spring planting
and plant thickly in nursery lines, placing some
flaky leaf-mould among the roots.

The Vegetable Garden.

Spring Cabbages. — These are a valuable asset
in spring, and a good plantation should be made
in the first week of September ; meanwhile, the
quarter should be prepared for them. A good
plan is to plant after early Potatoes. Good farm-
yard manure suits Cabbages very well, but it is
not desirable to manure the crop too liberally at
this season. When digging for the crop, one spade
deep will be quite suflicient.

Leeks. — If good crops are expected. Leeks must

receive liberal treatment, and a dressing of old

fowl-manure or soot at the present time will have

a magical effect. Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

August 23, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

427

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAc Editor intends to
make Thk tJAiiDEN helpjul to all readers who desire asitist-
anee, no matter ivhat the branch of gardening may be, and
xoith that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. AH communicati/)ns should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden. 20, TaHstock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may deMre to be tised in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be Hnt to the Publisher.

FLOWER GARDEN.

PINCHING SWEET PEAS {J. C.).—H the seedling Sweet
Peas do not break naturally from the base before they are
2 inches hich, pinch out the point. You can then take up
one, two or tliree stems at discretion. Your soil mixture
is excellent, and should be prepared in t^he autumn.

IRISES DISEASED {Mrs. H.).— The Irises are attacked
by the Iris leaf-spot fungus (Heteroeporium firacile).
Spraying docs little to check the disease, but the best
treatment is to give the ground about the plants a thorough
dressing of lime in a\itumn after moving all the dead and
affected foliage.

PAMPAS GRASS (FF. E. C.).— It would have been better
had you mixed about one-half of light loam, together with
some old mortar rubble, with the soil for the Pampas Grass.
It is pos.sible, too, that the plant gets much too dry at
the roots in spite of your waterings, and moisture during
growth is essential tn success. You might also try frequent
doses of liquid manure.

IRIS STYLOSA AND AZALEA MOLLIS {Stoke Flem-
ming). — The best time to remove and replant Iris Rtylosa
is in March and April, when the plants should also be
divided. A sunny and well-drained spot, with rather
light soil freely mixed with lime nibble or the like, is very
desirable. Firm planting without burying the rhizome
(rootstock) is essential. The Azalea would be best planted
during September or October.

CLIMBING PLANT TO COVER WIRE-NETTING {Devon).
— The most likely climbing plant to succeed in the position
you describe is the common wild Clematis (C. Vitalba).
Although less beautiful than many of the garden kinds, it
has the advantage of being vigorous and forming luxuriant
growth. There is little doubt but that this plant will
succeed and give slight trouble other than an annual
pruning in spring to keep it mthin bounds.

A SWEET PEA SPORT {G. F. F.).—We do not like
to say that this freak Sweet Pea is a throw-back to " early
days," for what the origin of the Sweet Pea was before
the wild type, Lathyrus odoratus, was evolved no one
knows. The Sweet Pea is abnormal in several ways,
but particularly in the very large keel and in the divided
standard, which also bears outgrowths, called by tera-
tologists enations. The texture is similar to that of many
other Sweet Peas now on the market.

SALPIGLOSSIS FAILING {M. J. P.).— There is no sign
whatever on the Salpiglossis of the attack of any fungus.
It seems probable that your soil is not in a good condition
for maintaining a proper water supply, and these Salpi-
glossis plants, which, at the best of times, do not take very
kindly to transplanting, are suffering mainly from this
cause. Lime is sure to improve the texture of your soil,
and it would be best to dig in powdered quicklime in
autumn, allowing from four to six weeks to elapse before
planting perennials on the part treated.

" STREAK " IN SWEET PEAS (C. M. J.).— The root
of the Sweet Pea sent is affected by the fungus Thielavia
basicola, causing root-rot, and the stem is affected by
the trouble known as "' streak." The " streak '* in the
stem hds been attributed to the attack of bacteria, but
the point is not clearly settled whether it is not rather the
result of a combination of attacks. In any case the root-rot
is a serious trouble and is usually associated with wrong
soil conditions, such as too heavy manuring, over-watering
and the like. Did the roots get away well from the card-
board pots in which the plants were planted ?

LILIES, GENTIANS, AND OTHER QUESTIONS
{Ignoramiis). — The solution of the Lily problem is, most
probably, that one bulb has made plenty of both new
basal and stem roots and that the other has not. The
Gentians named are best raised from seeds sown as soon
as ripe. The Eucomis will flower in due course when it
has gathered strength. Put it into a 7-inch pot. You
do not say to what Zephyranthes you refer. The flowering
is usually the outcome of strength of bulb. The Linum
generally opens its flowers towards the evening. Gentiana
cniciata is one of the strongest growers of this remarkable
family, and usually succeeds well in most deep, well-
drained soils. Possibly a few applications of water would
assist the development of the spike and flower-buds,
unless the latter are blind owing to the excessive drought

experienced a few weeks since. If this be so, the dried-up
condition of the buds should reveal it upon close examina-
tion.

SWEET PEAS FAILING (Constant Subscriber).— The
use of superphosphate and potash to the soil \\111 do much
?ood. provided it is commenced early enough ; but if the
plants are attacked already, little can be expected from that
treatment. There is a fungus, a species of Fusariura, at
the root of the Pea, bringing about root-rot, and this is
likely to attack Peas if the soil has been used for growing
Peas in before. Instead of making trenches, have the
soil in which the Peas arc intended to be grown treated
all over alike, and do not use too much manure nor let it
be put in layers. Have it thoroughly mixed with the soil
all through.

CHRISTMAS ROSES {S. TT.).— The essentials to the
successfid cultivation of the Christmas Rose are August
or September planting, a prepared soil depth of at least
24 feet accompanied by good drainage, and healthy,
vigorous examples of three to five crowns with equally
\igorous leafage. So far as position is concerned, a
partially-shaded one is best, one backed by Hollies at a
few feet distant or receiving the shelter afforded by more
distant trees. Big clumps of these plants should never
be planted, while equally useless are leafless examples
which are but feebly rooted. If in your district you are
close upon a chalk subsoil, special soil provision would
have to be made. It is difficult for us to recommend a
place to pet such things, though, if you are planting largely,
the better way would be to invite samples from some of
the leading dealer*; in hardy plants, not forgetting the
Scottish growers, whose stocks of hardy plants are usually
of a good type.

KEEPING VIOLAS AND PANSIES (Af. E. TT.).— You
might certainly lift these and give them the protection of
the wall you refer to, planting them, if possible, in rather
light soil. A month prior to lifting you should prune the
plants, the old flowering branches more particularly,
to within 2 inches of the soil, thus giving scope for the
younger shoots, whicli will presently appear rather freely
at the centre of the plants. If, when planted, you filter
in some light soil among these younger shoots, they will,
before spring, give yon excellent material for replanting.
It is just possible that some of the earliest-made shoots
may require stopping. The best way of keeping both
these is to root cuttings each year in September following
the cutting-down process already given. Any improvised
frame would do for the purpose. The perennial Mallow,
Malva moschata and its variety alba, would be most likely
to do with yon, as the latter is one of the most desirable
of border plants. Plant in early September.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

ABNORMAL GROWTH ON WILLOW {J. fi.).— The
abnormal growth on Willow sent for examination is due
to irritation brought about by a minute insect known as
Eriophyes triradiatus, and the growth may be compared
in character to the so-called Witches" Brooms frequently
found on trees. This particular type of growth has been
very prevalent in some districts during the last few years,
particularly in the neighbourhood of Hampstead Heath in
North London. It cannot be said to have serious conse-
quences on the trees on which it occurs, although it is
somewhat of an eyesore.

crat;egos pyracantha not fruiting {E. a. p.).

— This shrub should not be pruned in early sprmg, as
any growths cut out then would most probably produce
flowers. Whatever pruning is contemplated should be taken
in hand after flowering ; you would then leave all branches
bearing fruits. Being only about six feet high, your
bushes are young and growing freely. They will bear
fruit more freely when 12 feet to 20 feet high. Saxifraga
hypnoides forms an evergreen carpet, and should make
a very serviceable plant for the purpose you mention.

CLEMATISES FAILING {A. H.).— Your complaint with
respect to Clematis plants suddenly collapsing is, unfor-
tunately, a common failing. Various reasons have been
put forward as the cause. The great majority of Clematises
are grafted, and it may be that the union is a bad one,
though apparently satisfactory for some years. Clematis
plants with the lower part'of the stem exposed to the .sun
frequently fail ; apparently the sun cracks the stem and
causes death above. There is a good deal to be said for
this reason, as the plants often push out quite healthy
growths below where the stem is affected. The remedy is
to plant the varieties of Clematis Jackmanii and others
which fail in this way among shrubs or on a western aspect
where the fierce rays of the sun cannot reach the stems.

SHRUBS FOR DRY BORDER (ilf. ^. M.).— Flowering
shrubs that would succeed in a very dry border are
Berberis vulgaris, Caryopteris Mastacanthus, Cistuses
of sorts, Coluteas of sorts, Hedysarum multijugum,
Helianthemums of sorts, Hibiscus syriacus in variety,
Hypericum calycinum, Lavandula spica, Ononis frnticosa,
Perowskia atriplicifolia, Phlomis frnticosa, Potentilla
fruticosa, P. Veitchii. Rubus fruticosus alba plena,
R. f. roseo plena, Spartium junceum and Ulex europaus
flore plena. If your border is not too dry for the subjects
named by you, there are others that may be safely planted
therein, such as Abelia rupestris, Cydonia japonic*,
Desmodium penduliflorum, Deutzia crenata flore plena,
Fnchsi.i3 (hardy). Genistas of sorts, Indigofera gerardiana,
Louicera Maackii, Philadelphuses of sorts, Rhodotypos
kerrioides, Rubus deliciosus and Weigelas in variety.

FUCHSIA RICCARTONI AND LILY (fl. i).).— In all
probability the Fuchsia has occupieu its position too long
and the soil has become exhausted. In these circumst-ances
the only remedy would be to remove the plant to a fresh
site in the spring of 1914, well enriching the soil and dividing
up the old specimen before replanting. It may be. too,

that the present position is sufficiently warm, and if a
summer one could be provided, so much the better. We
are afraid it will not pay you for your trouble to attempt
to keep the Lilies, as they rarely do much in the way of
fiowering the second year. Moreover, flowering bulbs
are to be had so cheaply in the early months of the year,
or even during the ensuing autumn. If, however, you
still have a desire to try, the better way would be to lift
the bulbs from the soil when flowering is past, and to
put them in a little rather dry soil or Cocoanut fibre in a
box. placing them in a cellar for the winter months.

ROSE GARDEN.

ROSE JULIET WITH DIVIDED BLOOMS {B. G. F.).~
It is characteristic of the Rose. You must feed the plant
well, prune fairly hard, and you will get some good blooms.

TRANSPLANTING LARGE RAMBLERS {B. M. B.).—
You coidd transplant these in November, but you need
to cut them back severely, and we doubt if they would be
worth the trouble, seeing that you can obtain young plants
so cheaply. It would take at least two years for the ramblers
to recover from the transplanting, and by that time young
plants would have made almost as much growth.

CLIMBING ROSE {L. M. 5.).— Hiawatha is quite late,
and you could not have anything of this class much
later. Climbing Mrs. Cutbush is perpetual flowering,
and also Jean Girin. For a small pergola we would
suggest Griiss an Teplitz, Climbing Cramoisie Sup6rieure
and Florence Haswell Veitch. These are perpetual
flowering and should meet your wishes. A late vigorous
purple Clematis is C. Jackroanii.

BRIAR HEDGE (CAc.'*ter).— If your Sweet Briar hedge
is very rough and untidy, you may cut it back a little
at once, but it would be better to leave the general cutting
back until the end of March next year. You may then
cut it back into fairly old wood. Remove some of the
soil about the roots during the winter, and replace it with
a mixture of well-rotted manure and good loam. Then,
towards the end of May next year, give the ground a
surface-dressing of well-decayed manure.

CLIMBING ROSES AND CLEMATISES TO COVER
A SOUTH WALL {Anthony).— 'Xha following Roses are
likely to succeed and give good results : Gloire de Dijon,
William Allen Richardson, Ards Pillar, Climbing Souv.
<le la Malmaison, Longworth Rambler, Cheshunt Hybrid,
Griiss an Teplitz, Climbing Fran Karl Druschki, Alberic
Barbier, Tea Rambler, I>yon Rambler, Florence H.
Veitch, H61?ne Granger and Eliso Robichon. The following
kinds of Clematis are well worth planting. Some
shade should be afforded for the roots. C. montana,
C. m. rubens, C. Lady Caroline Nevill, C. La France,
C. Mme. Edouard AndV^, C. Jackmanii superba and C.
lanuginosa.

ROSE NIPHETOS FAILING (./ffne).— The plant is
evidently in a weakly condition, owing, doubtless, to
lack of nourishment. Such a free-growing Rose as this
should receive liquid manure twice a week from the time
it commences to show its buds. This not only assists the
buds, but also the subsequent growth, which lays the
foundation for a healthy tree. Fork up the soil now if
the bush is planted out, and give some liquid cow-manure,
pre%iously watering the soil with plain water. If in a pot,
the same treatment should be given. The curled leaves
are due to a form of mildew, probably arising from drought
at the roots. Cut away such growth now, and give the
plant a good spraying every other day with Jeyes' Horti-
cultural Wash.

ROSES THROWING BLIND WOOD {Ardeen). —Thi?,
defect is peculiar to some varieties, but is most generally
attributed to want of ripening of the old wood. You
would do well to repot your Roses at once, and stand them
outdoors on a bed of ashes in full sun. Be careful not to
over-water them, and keep all flower-buds pinched off. In
October give them a good drying off by laying the pots
on their sides for about two weeks ; then remove to a cold
frame until you wish to place them in the forcing-house.
J. B. Clark is a bad Rose lor splitting. It must be well
disbudded and its shoots well thinned out. Possibly you
would flnd standards to yield the best blooms under this
treatment. When disbudding, always select the most
perfect bud to retain.

ROSE FOLIAGE BLIGHTED {B. A. D. O. F.).— The
Roses must be in a very bad condition. They have the
black and also the white mildew. You had better have a
lot of the very worst foliage cut away and burnt ; then give
the plants a thorough good spraying with a solution of
carbolic soap, at the rate of about four ounces to a gallon
of water. Or another good recipe would be : Half a pound
of lime, lib. of sulphur, and half a pound of soft soap,
all boiled together in a gallon of water. Use half a pint
of this liquid to two gallons of soft water. Unless the
tree is a very old one, we advise you to dig it up and
burn it, rather than waste time in trying to cure the blight,
as it has obtained such a strong hold of the foliage and may
infect the healthy trees. Probably this particular tree
is in a bad state at the roots, which has checked its growth ;
and when growth is arrested, then is the time that blights
obtain a strong hold of the plant.

THE GREENHOUSE.

ORCHID LEAVES TURNING BROWN (C. Mayhew).—
You do not give us sufficient information concerning the
treatment given to theOrchids of whichleaves were enclosed.
However willing to oblige our readers, we are greatly
handicapped by this lack of knowledge on important
points. We should say that an excess of atmospheric
moisture, combined with a low temperature, is at the root
of the trouble ; but there are other possible causes.

428

THE GARDEN.

[August 23, 1913.

GLOXINIAS (Mrs. 0. F. C.).— There are Beveral possible
reasons for the unsatisfactory condition of your Gloxinias.
In the first place, as the surfare of the pots is rather
moss-Rrown, it would indicate that the plants are potted in
unsTiitable soil, or that drainace is at fault. Next, the
small hothouse in which they were gro^vn was probably
too hot for them, and the change into a cooler structure
too drastic. Gloxinias are very often grown in too much
heat, with decidedly unsatisfactory results. With regard
to manure-water, the time to apply it will depend entirely
upon the condition of the plants. It must only be used
when the roots arc in a good, healthy state, so that the
plant is able to assimilate the food, as, if it ia not in this
condition, stimulants of any kind will do far more harm
than good. In order to give your plants the best chance
for another season, they should be kept in the greenhouse,
where they are shaded from the full rays of the sun. After
the flowers are past, the plants should be watered as
before till they show signs of going to rest by the leaves
turning yellow, when less moisture will be required.
When quite dormant, water may be discontinued alto-
gether. They may be wintered in the pots they have
grown in, keeping them quite dry in a temperature of
50° to 60°. In spring shake them clear of the old soil and
repot in a mixtm'e of loam, leaf-mould and sand, where
in a minimum temperature of 55" they will soon start
into growth They will not need much water till the
leaves appear.

FRUIT GARDEN.

NECTARINES CRACKING {W. H. T.).— Probably the
atmosphere of the house is too humid and moist. Give
abundance of air day and night while the weather is fine.
Giving the tree a good soaking of water at the roots a
short time previously would also cause cracking. In watering
your trees you should so contrive to give them a good
soaking before the second swelling is too far advanced
to cause this cracking.

GUMMING IN PEACH TREES (B. A. /.).— Allowing
the trees to make gross and ill-ripened shoots, especially
if they are injured by bruising the bark, in; one of the chief
causes of gumming. Check the growth by root-pruning,
training the shoots carefully. Allowing the roots to run
too deeply in stiff soil, thus preventing maturity of growth,
is also a cause. Lift the trees in bad cases, replanting
nearer the surface. Training the branches thinly is an
excellent remedy.

SILVER-LEAF IN FRUIT TREES (B. A. /.).— Sulphate
of iron in powdered crystal form mixed with the soil in
March is an excellent remedy for silver-leaf. For a tree
ten years old use 61b., and so on according to the age.
Take out a trench, 1 foot deep, from the stem of the tree,
4 feet wide on each side of the stem, mix the sulphate
evenly among the soil and roots as the digging proceeds,
and, if the roots are not found at that depth, go deeper,
bringing them nearer the surface.

APPLE TREES INFESTED WITH INSECT PESTS
(Oreystoke). — Spray your trees with the following winter
wash. The best time to do this is in February, after the
trees have been pruned. Iron sulphate, half a pound ;
lime, quarter of a pound ; caustic soda, 21b. ; paraffin,
five pints ; and water, ten gallons. Dissolve the copper
sulphate in eight or nine gallons of water. Slake the lime
in water and add to the dissolved copper sulphate, running
it through a fine sieve. Add the paraffin and keep it
stirred, and then add the caustic soda and water to bring
the whole up to ten gallons. Spray your trees again just
before the flower-b\ids burst open with Abol, a preparation
which is most effective in clearing fruit trees of all manner
of pests and blight, and which can do no harm to the trees
or tenderest flowers. Abol may be bought, with instruc-
tions how to use it, from any nurserymen or seed merchants
advertising with us.

GRAPES MILDEWED (J. F. B., iVor/oift).— Mildew
always seems to exist in the air, ready and waiting for
favourable atmospheric conditions and an opportunity
to seize its victims, the Vine under glass being one of
its favourites. To know what are the conditions which
invite and favour its attack is the surest way of frustrating
its intentions. The atmospheric conditions which mostl>
favour an attack are a low, damp night temperature with
a sudden rise by sun-heat on a sunny morning, and after-
wards the admittance of too mucli cold air to bring down
tiiis high temperature. The foliage of the Vine is very
tender at this time, and highly sensitive to sudden changes
in temperatures, which cause a chill and create the con-
ditions which favour an attack by this pest. The remedy
lies in continuing to have a gentle iieat in the pipes, especially
at night, until the Grapes have done stoning. The foliage
and berries will tlien have become riper and harder, and
better able to protect themselves against its attack. With
slight heat in the pipes at night, air must be ^iven in
moderation, both front and back; a free circulation will
then be secured and the atmosphere rendered buoyant,
fairly warm and free from the defects noticed above. The
vinery having air on all night, the temperature will rise
gradually in the early morning, and there will not be the
necessity to open the ventilators too wide at any one time.
Heat in the pipes will not be so necessary during the day.
unless the weather is cold and damp, when a little should
always be applied in the early stages of the Vine's growth.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

SPRAYING POTATOES {T. V. H.).— For spraying garden
crops of Potatoes the Vermorel Knap.sack Pump is an
effective, easil>-worked and handy machine. It is not
expensive, and may be had from any horticultural simdries-
man advertising in The Garden.

PEAS GOING WRONG {E. C.).— The Peas appear to be
attacked by a newly-described bacterial disease, the full

history of which is at present unknown. There is also

some suggestion of root-rot ; but as the disease has not
yet been fully worked out, it is impossible to give any
remedial measures. It would be well to grow the plants
next season on soil which has not been previously used for
growing Peas.

CELERY ATTACKED BY FUNGUS (J. P.).— It would
have been well to have commenced the treatment of the
Celery plants for the Septoria attack earlier than this,
as it is a disease which, when once it has gained a hold,
is extremely difficult to overtake. It would be well to
spray with Bordeaux mixture from now onwards at intervals
of three weeks. Bordeaux mixture is made by dissolving
in separate wooden vessels, in soft water, 61b. of copper
sulphate (98 per cent, purity) and slaking 41b. of best
quick (or unslaked) lime, each of them requiring about
five gallons of water. Wlien the copper sulphate is
dissolved and the lime thoroughly slaked and cold, pour
the two together and dilute to forty gallons with water.
Apply as a very fine spray, covering the plants completely
with it.

BEETROOT DOING BADLY (^'e).— Seeing that you
buy your seed from the seed merchants mentioned,
there can be no question of its purity and power of g^o^vth.
Land should not be freshly manured for the growth of
Beet; instead it should be grown in soil which has been
liberally manured for a crop the previous year, say,
Potatoes or Peas. Dig the soil deeply in early spring
and prepare for sowing on May 1. If the soil is heavy,
place a layer, half an inch deep, of old, fine potting soil
at the bottom of the drill ; this will help the seed to
vegetate quickly. The seedlings come up quickly at
this time, and the little plants are often devoured
by slugs or minute flies before they are seen by the naked
eye. Soot and lime in equal quantities should be scattered
lightly over the rows in the course of a fine day after the
seed is sown, and every eight or nine days afterwards
until the young plants are an inch or so out of the ground
and free from further attack.

FEEDING VEGETABLE MARROWS BY ARTIFICIAL
MEANS (Barker). — Our correspondent says : " I have
heard it is possible to feed Vegetable Marrows by, I think,
piercing the stem and placing through it a horsehair with
its ends in a sugar solution, or something to that effect."
Nature is so long-suffering that she will bear any torture
inflicted upon her. seemingly, with meekness and resigna-
tion ; but in the long run she is bound to have her revenge.
And so it would be in this case. The tearing and bruising
of the tissues of the stem by the act of piercing through
it could only result in destroying many of the sap-vessels
whose office it is to supply the plant with nutriment for
its life and growth. A plant can only feed through its
roots and some constituents which its foliage absorbs from
the air. For the grubs infesting Carrots, Cauliflower and
even eating the roots of the Parsley, try what watering
with lime and soot water will do. To eight gallons of
soft water add half a gallon of fresh lime and a quart of
soot. Well mix and churn with the water at the time the
lime and soot are placed in the water. Let the mixture
stand for twenty-four hours, and water with clear water
only, without the sediment. If this does not answer,
the most effectual way is to break up (with a hand-fork
or trowel) the surface soil round the collar of the plant
until the surface roots are reached, and then to search
for the grubs. They are generally found near the surface,
and the plants are often saved in this way.

MISCELLANEOUS.

ANALYSING WATER (C. BuUer).— Yon should get
the water analysed by a professional analyst. Probably
it could be done at the East Anglian Institute of Agricul-
ture at Chelmsford for a small fee for the purpose mentioned.
There are mineral springs in your neighbourhood, and
the test to which you refer would not reveal any impuri-
ties injurious to plants, though it would be an indication
of suitability or otherwise for human consumption.

SLUGS (Chefiter). — These have been a considerable
source of trouble in some districts for the last eighteen
months : it is thought by reason of the great amount
of rain experienced last year. Some people trap them
by placing lines of bran or sawdust about the ground,
while others sow lime or soot over the ground. On any
vacant ground it would be a good plan to apply a good
dressing of soot and unslaked lime before digging it over.
It would also be a good plan to surround beds of annuals
with rings of soot, sawdust, or bran. Another plan for
destroying slugs is to place slices of Turnip about on
the ground. The slugs shelter beneath these, and may
then be caught. They may also be searched for by the
aid of a lantern during the early part of the night. The
" V.T.H.'* Slug Trap, supplied by Mr. Vernon T. Hill,
Mendip Nurseries, Langford, Somerset, is highly to be
commended.

NAMES OF FRUIT.— £. C— 1, Lord Suffleld . 2,
Ecklinvillc Seedling; 3, Cardinal; 4, Keswick Codlin;
5, Nelson's Codlin ; 6. Tower of Glamis.

NAMES OF PLANTS. — Interested. — 1, Eupatorium
cannabinum ; 2 and 4, Apium nodiflorum ; 3, Gnaphalium
uliginosum ; 5, Stachys Betonica ; 6, Carduus crispus ; 7,
C. arvensis ; 8, C. la'nceolatus ; 9, Sencbiera Coronopus ;

10, Hypericum perforatum; 11 and 12, H. hirsutum.

T. C. G. — 1, Sodum Sieboldi ; 2, Othonna camosa ; 3,
Sedum sarmento?um variegatum ; -i, Tolmiea Menziesii;
5, Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob Tree); 6, Aspidium lepidum ;

7, Sedum reflexum. Woodman, — Rhus Cotinus (Venetian

Sumach) and Hedera Helix chrysophylla. D. A. — 1, Ver-

bascum phooniceum ; 2, Linaria dalmatica ; 3, Pent-

stemon barbatus. J. S., G mint i/ Durham. — 1, Geranium

pratense ; 2, Alonsoa Warscewiczii. Medgerley. — Escal-

lonia rubra, Rhamnus Frangula (Berry-bearing Alder) and

Rhododendron viscosa variety. J. s., Hants — Sisy-

rinchium striatum. A. 0., 5u^oR-. — Centranthus

macrosiphon. It is an annual, native of Spain. J.B.

—Roses: 1, Captain Hayward ; 2, White Pet; 3, Marquise
de Sinety ; 4, Billiard et Barrfi ; 5, A. K. William^ ; 6.

Baroness Rothschild. Lieutenant-Colonel H. F. D. — We

believe the Rose to be Mrs. C. Curtis Harrison. B. B.,

Birmingham. — Lychnis oculata.

SOCIETIES.

PERTHSHIRE SWEET PEA SOCIETY.

The Perthshire Sweet Pea Society held its fourth annual
show in the City Hall, Perth, on August 9. The Very Rev
Provost Smythe opened the show, the Earl and Countess
of Kinnoul and Sir John and Lady Dewar being also
on the platform. The show was the finest the society
has ever held, and both quantity and quality showed an
improvement on those of former years. A gold medal
offered by the society, and open to the trade, for the
best table of Sweet Peas was won by Messrs. Thyne and
Son, Dundee, with a magnificent display. For the best
twelve bunches of Sweet Peas, for which Sir John Dewar
offered a gold medal, Mr. E. Cowdy, Belfast, was awarded
the prize with a splendid lot of blooms. Another very
successful competitor was Mr. J. Petrie, Crathes Castle,
who won two silver medals, offered by the society for
six bunches and for the same number of new Sweet Peas,
besides a special for the most points won at the show!
In the division for growers of from 15 yards to 20 yards,
Mr. R. Duncan, Kemnay, Aberdeen, won the society's
challenge cup for nine bunches, and also a medal for six
bunches. The National Sweet Pea Society's medal for
small growers was won by .Mr. Glover, Colinton, Edinburgh.

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

About ninety members of the Scotti.sh Horticultural
Association participated in the excursion to Carberry
Tower, the seat of Lord Elphinstone, who had kindly
invited the association to visit the gardens. On arrival,
the members, who were accompanied by the president'
Mr. David King, Osborne Nurseries, Edinburgh, were
met by Mr. D. Kidd, the gardener, and bv him conducted
through the gardens and grounds. Much was observed to
admire, and the party were highly pleased with the excellent
order in which they found everything, both under glass
and outside. Mr. Kidd is well known as one of the ablest
of Scottish gardeners, and Carberry Tower Gardens were
found full of interest. The herbaceous borders were very
flne, and the Dutch garden, an old and striking feature
of the place, was much admired for its quainlhess and
beauty. Hoses were very fine indeed. The company
was kindly entertained at tea by Lord and Lady Elphin-
stone, to whom, on the motion of the president,' a hearty
vote of thanks was accorded. A similar recognition was
made of the courtesy and kindness of Mr. Kidd.

THE BRITISH PTERIDOLOGICAL SOCIETY.

THIS society as usual, held its annual meeting on
August Bank Holiday, this time on the 4th. at Totnes,
Devon, after a preliminary investigation of the locality
as a promising Fern-hunting region by the hon. secretary,
Mr. Charles T. Druery, and Mr. W. B. Cranfleld, the
treasurer, who found it all that could be desired as regards
abundance of Ferns and of species. At the business
meeting the balance-sheet and the membership were
found to be highly satisfactory, no fewer than 160 members
having replaced the original score existing at the time
of the, so to speak, reconstruction of the society and the
establishment of the British Fern Gazette, edited by Mr.
Druery, which was at once recognised as deserving of
the support of all lovers of British Ferns in their beautiful
and multiform varietal characters.

The Seven Stars Hotel was fixed as the meeting-place, and
prior to and after the mcc-ting the members present
organised various hunting expeditions to Dartmoor and the
surrounding district of South Devon, with very satisfactory
results, although a two months* drought had played havoc
with all the exposed Ferns, which in many places had been
killed outright and in most presented a flaccid and shrivelled
appearance, which militated seriously against any recog-
nition of varietal features. Notwithstanding, however,
this handicap, a number of good varieties fcU to the lot
of the searchers, showing that Nature was still busy in
producing sports, although one might imagine that the
great number of such acquisitions by the coterie of old
pioneers, with their sharp eyes, woiUd have practically
exhausted the chances of fresh discoveries. A number
of very beautiful forms obtained by selective sowing
were sent by absent members as a proof that in this
direction also much had been, and was still being, done
to improve, if possible, the original wild varieties through
their capacity of further variation by their spores. From
a patriotic point of view, therefore, the society, devoting
itself purely to our native Ferns, has proved itself to be
well worthy of support, and it is hoped that its member-
ship will continue to increase in view of the fact that
the quarterly issue of the British Fern Gazette, under
tlie experienced editorship of the well-known expert,
Mr. Charles T. Druery, V.M.H., F.L.S., fully repays the
expenditure of the 5s. per annum <.\ugust to August),
which secures its receipt and constitutes the subscriber
a member of the large body of Fern enthusiasts, with
which it brings him or her (for many members are ladies)
into more or less direct contact. Mr. Drtiery is also the
hon. secretary. His address is 11. Shaa Road, Acton, W.,
and he is always ready to send a specimen number of the
gazette to anyone contemplating membership.

[%"5^^"«-

garden!

:=^^^^s^

If'

No. 2180.— Vol. LXXVII.

August 30, 1913.

CONTBNTS.

Notes of the Week 429

courf-spondence
Campanula Zoysii, . 430
Is Kosc Irish Elegance

free-flovveriuti ?
Outdoor Tomatoes
Scentless Musk
Salvia turki^stanicji
The SI. John's Wort
Zonal l*ciiirgoniuni

Maximo Kovalcv-

sky

430
430
430
431
431

4.;i

Mother o'

\i\\ ium chalccdon icu m 431
Fortliconiine events . . 431

Fr-OWEK tiARDEN

Hanly annuals for
autumn .-owiuK . . 431

(ieranium striatum 431
TRKE'i AND Shrubs

A double - llowered
Ceanothus . . . . 432

Spiraiii Wilsonii . . 432

Choice berry-bcarins
trees and shrubs 432

Rock and Water GARi>i:N
I'he Campauulas or

Bcll-Howcrs .. 433

A beautiful Geranium 434

Linuni arboreum . . 434

Hekbaceous Borders

AT Salisbury close 434

434
435

Sweet Pea

Pearl . . . .

Daffodil Notes

Fruit Garden
Treatment of Rasp-
berries after
fruiting . . . . 435
Hints on ripening
Melons . . . . 430

Greenhouse
Erlangea tomentosa 436
Hydrangeas in the
greenhouse. . . . 436

Gardesino for Beginners
JIow to increase

Violas 437

Mignonette for

winter floweriuK 437

Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 438

For Northern gar-
dens 43S

Answers to Cork e-
spondents
Kosc garden . . . . 439
Greenhouse . . . . 439
Fruit garden . . . . 439
Miscellaneous . . 439

Societies 439

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Rose Irish Elegance in a reader's garden 430

Ceanothus albus plenus 432

Rpirsea Wilsonii 432

The Wall Harebell (Campanula portenschlagiana) . . 433

Geranium lancastriense 434

Herbaceous borders at Salisbury Close . . Supplement

Linum arboreum in Mr. E. A. Bowles' rock garden. . 435

Erlangea tomentosa 436

How to increase Violas 437

EDITORIAL. NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented In THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor vjelmmcs plwtogmphs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their sale return. All
reasnnable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, il payment be desired, the Editor
Oiks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright wilt be treated loith.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return 0; artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use. and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden 7vill alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden. W.C

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Cutting Dead Wood from Trees.— Now will be
found a good time for looking around trees and
shrubs and cutting out ail dead wood, particularly
from deciduous ones, as it is not always an easy
matter to detect the dead wood when the leaves are
off ; certainly not so easy as now. It is very
important to put a coating of tar on each of the
cuts afterwards to prevent disease getting into
the wound.

Sowing Grass Seed. — Bare spots on the lawns
or grass paths should be pricked up with a fork,
and grass seed sown. If preparation has been
made for the making of lawns, the seed should be
sown now, as much time is saved and better results
are obtained than if left till the spring. Dull,
showery weather is preferable, but if the weather
should be very dry, a few waterings will greatly
assist the seed to gcnnin.ite quickly.

Root-Pruning Fruit Trees.— September is the
best month for this operation, which generally
throws into a fruiting state fruit trees which have
either rooted into an uncongenial subsoil or are
growing too much to wood. It is well only to attack
one-half of the roots in a season. Keep about
three feet clear of the stem, and be sure you get
right under the tree. Trim all cut, bare roots with
a sharp knife, and work in some maiden loam among
them.

Sweet Pea Royal Rose.— For garden decoration
and cutting, this is a delightful Sweet Pea. It
is in the way of John Ingman, but the stock is
more reliable, coming quite true, \vhich, unfortu-
nately, cannot be said of some of the seeds sold as
John Ingman. The flowers are rich rose red,
showing no trace of magenta, and nicely frilled.
The plants are robust, autumn-sown seeds growing
10 feet high in the usual soil of a good herbaceous
border. The later flowers maintain their size,
colour and length of stalk better than many sorts.

Saxifraga florulenta. — Considerable interest was
displayed in tliis curious species of Saxifraga,
shown recently before the scientific committee
of the Royal Horticultural Society by Mr. Chaplin
of Great Amwell, Ware, in whose garden it had
flowered. It was collected by him, and had appa-
rently been growing in shade in cultivation, though
it appears to grow alike in sun and shade in its
home in the Maritime .\lps, where it occurs at high
altitudes. It has, perhaps, only once before flowered
in this country, when it received a first-class
certificate in June, 1872, being shown by Mr. Maw.

Honeysuckles as Bushes. — In a garden visited
recently we noticed several extremely fine speci-
mens of Honeysuckle. There were several varie-
ties, some of the bushes being about nine feet
high and more in diameter. They were profusely
flowered, and, as the positions were open ones on
the lawn, the plants drew the attention of visitors
both on account of their size, quantity of blossom
and delightful fragrance. It is not at all a difficult

matter to establish such bushes if they are given
the support of a strong stake during the first three
or four years.

A Blaze of Colour. — For some years now the
flower-beds in the front of Buckingham Palace
have been planted entirely with the rich-coloured
Zonal Pelargonium Paul Crampel, and this season
there is no exception to the rule. The flat, un-
broken surface of the beds is, however, relieved
by good-sized specimens of the same variety.
The whole of the plants have done remarkably
well this summer, and present such a blaze ol
colour as one rarely sees. It may be questioned
whether this is the most suitable arrangement
for the position, but there can be no doubt that
as far as showiness is concerned it could not be
surpassed.

Valuable Spring-flowering Plants.— There are

several varieties of the will-known Silene pendula
for making our gardens look gay in the late spring,
of which Silene pendula ruberrima and S. p. Snow
King are two of the best. As a groundwork for
larger plants, an edging, or for massing in the borders,
they are most valuable. Seeds should be sown
now, and the seedlings will make good plants for
putting out later. As the majority of Silenes
suffer more from the damp during the winter than
they do from the cold, it will be found advisable
to sow them in sandy soil, and, if the ground is of a
heavy and cold nature, to delay the transplanting
till the early spring.

Transplanting the Christmas Rose.— Few

flowers are more appreciated than the Christmas
Roses (Helleborus niger), blooming as they do
at a period of the year when almost all flowers are
at rest. The plants thrive in almost any ordinary
garden soil, but prefer a rich loam, with a moist,
rather shady, perfectly-drained situation. Now
will be found a good time to take up the large
clumps and divide them. If this operation is left
till later, the transplanting will check the blooming.
They are excellent for growing in pots in the
greenhouse if potted up now and placed in a frame,
but they should not by any means be forced.

Early-Flowering Chrysanthemums. — Those

annuals and biennials that are now past should
be removed from beds or borders and the gaps
filled with early-flowering Chrysanthemums. These
are not used to the extent that they should be
for such a purpose, and many a bare spot could
be made to look gay with these valuable plants.
They can be grown with very little trouble in a
piece of reserved ground, planting them out
as space occurs. If care is taken, they can be
transplanted without suffering in the least, even
when in bloom ; but it will be found advisable
to cut round the plants with a spade about five
inches or six inches from the stem, and give a good
watering a day or so before transplanting. Should
the weather be dry, the plants should he watered
once or twice, giving an occasional syringing over
the foliage.

430

THE GARDEN.

[August 30, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Campanula Zoysii. — By way of experiment I
liave this year tried this plant both in sun and in
semi-shade. While that with full exposure flowered
earlier, I must give the palm to the plant in semi-
shade, as it produced more numerous and finer
flowers than the plant facing south-west. It is
a quaint little plant which always interests visitors.
— B., Weybridge.

Lilium pardalinum. — I bought one of these
Lilies in igio. The next year (igii) there was
one head ; this year (1913) there have been seven
heads from 4 feet to 6 feet high with
over sixty flowers. It is planted in a
hot, damp corner, with the roots shaded
by a large Rose bush, and it was a
grand sight to see these brilliant flowers,
a mass of scarlet and orange. — M. VV.
SuGDEN. Wells, Somerset.

Erica mediterranea bybrida. — is u

not yet possible to give this fine Heatli
another name than either this or E.
hybrida, which, as you remark (issue
August 16, page 407), may can sc
confusion ? It is so distinct from E.
mediterranea that it is a pity to attach
the name of the latter to it at all. I
cannot recollect having come across any
authentic account of its origin. It is
one of the most valuable of our hardy
Heaths, and far and away more generally
useful even than E. mediterranea itself.
— S. A.

Is Rose Irish Elegance Free-
Flowering ? — During the present year
this charming single Rose has been
very freely used for table decorations
at all the leading shows, and in most
instances has secured the premier
award. In djscussing it some time ago
with rosarian friends, I was, however,
told none too gently that it was not a
Rose for the garden, as it did not
flower freely and its blooms were ton
fugacious. The latter statement one
has, unfortunately, to agree with, but
I think the accompanying photograph
proves that it is free-flowering enough
The photograph depicts a part only ot
a bush, and was taken early in August,
to that the flowers shown are the second
crop. It would be interesting if other
readers would give their opinions of the
merit? of this Rose for the garden —
A. B. Essex,

The Creeping Jenny. — In addition to
the suggestions in your valuable little note in The
Garden of August 16, page 405, one may mention
1 hat the Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia Numraularia)
IS very useful for covering the margins of a pond,
where it thrives splendidly. It is excellent for
covering the surface of the soil occupied by early
bulbs which love some moisture, and there the
Creeping Jenny is much finer than when in a drier
place. It is as good in sun as in shade. The
golden-leaved variety looks especially bright,
and some pieces on the margin of a little Water
Lily pond are very pleasing from June onwards. —
S. Arnoit.

Campanula pusilla Miranda. — Some two nr

thi'cc y<'ars since I acquired a plant of tliis frcjiu

the Craven Nursery, and I am glad that I did
so, as I think it the daintiest Campanula I have
seen. It is of dwarf habit, only occupying a small
space, with sweet, dome-shaped, pendent flowers of
a grey blue colour, so produced as to be shown to
the best advantage, and not crowded together
like those on Campanula pusilla Miss Willmott.
Campanula pusilla Miranda was, I believe, found
by Mr. Reginald Farrer, and alpinists owe him a
debt of gratitude for it. I had a good display of
bloom on my plant in June, and now it is kindly
flowering again. — W. A. Bilney.

Outdoor Tomatoes. — To the interesting remarks
made by a correspondent in the issue dated
August 16, page 406, I should like to say a
word in favour of the variety Sutton's Early Market

ROSE IRISH ELEGANCE IN A READER S GARDEN

for outdoor culture. It is especially valuable
for the purpose, being early and setting its fruits
very freely. They are of medium size, smooth,
rich red in colour, and six to twelve or more
are borne in a cluster. In a cold frame, on a
south wall and in the open, the results are equally
satisfactory. — A. O.

When writing my last note un these

(The Garden, August 16) I quite forgot to
mention a very interesting statement which
appeared in the Miinchner Neueste Nachrichten
at the end of the hot season of rgrr. It
was there stated that poor people were regularly
seen to carry to town baskets fiUl of ripe Tomatoes,
and on enquiry it was found that these were being

gathered along the banks of the River Tsar, where
they grew of their own accord. How this happens
it was explained — that the town sewage enters
the river a little way below the city, and as at
the time when the snow melts in the mountains
the river carries a considerable flood-tide and over-
flows its banks, the Tomato seeds, which find their
way into the river through the sewage canal, are,
when the waters recede to the river bed, deposited
and left to germinate along its banks and ripen
their fruits in favourable seasons. — E. Heinrich.

Wahlenbergia vincaeflora. — It is gratifying to
see your appreciation of this plant, as it is, in my
opinion, one of the best recent introductions
in the way of an alpine. I have planted it in a
south-west aspect, and it has been full of flower
for several weeks past, regardless of
the drought we have had to endure
so long. All flowers (especially Roses)
are much smaller this summer than
usual on this red-hot sandy soil.
Possibly in a normal summer the
flowers on this plant would be larger
than now. — B., Weybridge.

Scentless Musk. — For several weeks
past I have read with interest the notes
on scentless Musk. I have three pots
of Musk, Mimulus moschatus, and have
had them by me, as far as I can
remember, nine years, and potted them
up every year in the spring. These
plants retain as good a scent now as they
had when I first purchased them. The
only treatment I give is the ordinary
one. I keep them in a cool greenhouse
in the winter months, and outside on
shelves in the summer. The scent is
beautiful, and I would be only too pleased
to send a cutting to readers who wish
for it. — F. M., Surrey.

For some years past my small-
flowered yellow Musk has been quite
scentless, and I do not care to keep it,
but it continues to grow in a pot with
a Date Palm, and if it is nothing else, it
looks pretty and green. — M. W. S.,
Somerset.

If you do not consider the sub-
ject is worn out, I regretfully add my
testimony to the fact that Musk has
ceased to contribute any scent at all
to my garden. I have been puzzling
over it and observing with interest the
remarks on this subject in your valuable
paper. — M. Sybil Whitefoord, East
Brook, Wokingham.

1 asked an old and obser-
vant jobbing gardener the other day :
" Do you believe that Musk has
lost its smell ? " The answer came,

prompt and decisive : " Noa, I dooan't ! It'll
smell fast enough when t' weather's soft and warm,
but niver in a cold north wind like this year."
And I think, in the main, my opinion is like his.
Musk never did smell late on in the season, and it
needs a moist, still air, not too cold, to give off its
fullest perfume in June, just when the first flowers
are opening. There may, of course, be scentless
seedling forms that have ousted the type in Southern
gardens, but the sweet-scented Musk is still to
be found in Yorkshire (and elsewhere, too), I
have no doubt. This season, with its cold, drying,
" Polar-current " winds, has prevented the Musk
from giving off its perfume, and now it is too late,
for this year at any rate. — Edward H. Woodalu.

Siippleineiit to THE GARDEN, August 30//;, 1913.

HERBACEOUS BORDERS IN THE NORTH CANONRY GARDEN,

SALISBURY CLOSE.

Hudson 3- Kcarnt. JJd., Prii/fers, Lottdnn. S.E-

August 30, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

431

Salvia turkestanica.— 1 saw this Salvia for
the first tunc the other day in the gardens of Mr.
Alexander Porter, florist, Davidson's Mains, Mid-
lothian, and was struck with its suitability for
the wild garden. The plants had not been very
liberally treated, but stood about three and a-half
feet high. I fancy that with good cultivation
it would attain a height of 5 feet. The flowers are
pure white, and the bracts retain their whiteness
long after the flowers are over. The leaves on the
plants I saw were about six inches by nine inches. —
Charles Comfort.

The St. John's Wort. — Few kiiids of plants of
low growth excel this as a dry border subject. A
steep bank not more than 100 yards from the
sea in a Southern town is beautifully covered
with the St. John's Wort, which not only possesses
luxuriant foliage, but bears flowers profusely.
In another garden I find the plant equally successful
on the level ground, also in a sandy rooting medium.
As undergrowth to tall shrubs and trees it is thriving,
even though the trees rob the plants of much
nourishment. There are few flowering shrubs, if
any, that will succeed so well as the St. John's
Wort under the shade of trees. Readers who
experience any difficulty in getting plants estab-
lished in such positions may make a note of the
one here referred to. — G., Bournemouth.

Zonal Pelargonium Maxime Kovalevsky.—

This Pelargonium, which has been before now
referred to in The Garden, forms, from the distinct
tone of its blossoms, quite an uncommon feature
among the different varieties bedded out at
Hampton Court. The actual colour, a kind of
soft orange, is difficult to describe, and at a little
distance one would scarcely take it to be a Pelar-
gonium. At Hampton Court it has a bed to itself,
with the exception of an edging of variegated
Holcus and a few dot plants of Leucophyta Brownii.
This distinct Pelargonium was raised by M. Lemoine
of Nancy, and distributed about half-a-dozen
years ago.

Lilium chalcedonicum. — Many good examples
of this delightful Lily were noted at the Royal
Horticultural Hall recently. It is a member
of the Turk's-cap or Martagon section, though
the leaves are not arranged in whorls as in the true
Martagons. The flowering season of L. chalce-
donicum is, as a rule, towards the latter part of
July and the first half of August, though, of course,
it varies somewhat according to season and locality.
It grows generally from 3 feet to 4 feet in height,
the rather small flowers being gracefully recurved,
of a thick, wax-like texture and a sealing-wax red
colour. From their substance the blooms retain
their freshness longer than those of many other
Lilies. The Scarlet Martagon, as L. chalcedoni-
cum is popularly termed, needs a fairly hold-
ing loam, and is seen at its best when fully
established. Apart from any other considera-
tion, it is particularly interesting as being
one of the supposed parents of the charming
L. testaceum. — H. P.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

September 2. — Scottish Horticultural Associa-
tion's Meeting. Flower Show at Bicester.

September 3. — Flower Shows at Glasgow (two
days), Alnwick, and Preston (three days).

September 4. — Flower Shows at Peterborough
and Kilkenny.

September 6. — Flower Shows at Mauchline and
Kirkby Stephen. Societe Fran^aise d'Horti-
culture de Londres Meeting.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

HARDY ANNUALS FOR AUTUMN
SOWING.

{Continued from page 420.)
Time to Sow. — This is a subject that is too
often passed over and lightly thought of. When
the right time for sowing comes along, the ground
is not ready or other work is pressing. The proper
time for sowing is from raid-August till about the
third week in September. Occasionally a very late
sowing is successful when we have a mild November,
or even until Christmas ; but it is not worth the
risk. Sow early and get good, sturdy plants,
not necessarily tall, which will stand the winter.
If the flowering position is not ready, sow on the
reserve border at the right time and transplant
later. Take as a guide in this matter the sturdy
self-sown seedlings of Larkspurs, Poppies, Esch-
scholtzias and NigeUas. Most of these ripen seeds
in August, and they come up and thrive freely,
becoming sometimes almost as bad as weeds.
Rigorous thinning is another important matter.
It is no use expecting three or four plants to thrive
in a space suflScient only for one plant. Thinning,
however, should be done by degrees. At least
double the number of plants which are to remain
to flower should be left for the winter in case of
losses, for there are slugs and snails to consider
as well as the weather conditions. The final
thinning need not be done till March or early
April.

Antirrbiniuns and Stocks are hardy, but in
many districts the protection of a cold frame
is worth considering. Some of the Sweet Peas,
the new and scarce sorts in particular, should be
sown in pots and kept in a frame during the winter.
Statice Suworowii is another plant deserving
similar consideration. In bleak and cold gardens,
also those situated in confined areas, where
sparrows, slugs and snails are pests and try the
grower's patience, the garden frame will be foimd
most useful in %vinter to accommodate Clarkias,
Godetias, Candytufts, Sweet Sultans, Star Chry-
santhemums, Scabious, Sweet Alyssum and Corn-
flowers. Shallow trays or boxes are preferable
to pots. Boxes 15 inches by 9 inches, and 2 inches
deep, will hold three to four dozen plants, which
are sufficient to make several nice clumps in the
mixed border or to fill a small bed. An occasional
sprinkling of soot and lime all round the sides of
the frame, just inside, will stop slugs and snails,
and a handy-man will soon make a framework of
thin-meshed wire to fit on the top of the frame,
as the glass lights should only be used during
unfavourable weather.

To Sow Outdoors. — The following annuals do
not transplant readily, and should be sown where
they are to flo%ver : Poppies, the best sorts being
the Shirley Poppy ; the double Opium Poppy, 3 feet
in height, with greyish green foliage and immense
double flowers ; the single scarlet and black Poppy,
Papaver commutatum or P. umbrosum, 2 feet to
2 J feet high ; and the dainty Iceland Poppies
in yellow, orange and white. The tall, branching
Larkspurs, 3 feet in height, may be had in mixture
or separate colours, Sutton's Rosy Scarlet being
one of the best for massing. The Dwarf Rocket
Larkspurs are a foot in height, with dense, closely-
packed spikes of flowers. Wonderful development
during recent years has been noticeable in the Esch-
scholtzias, for, in addition to the old yellow and
orange sort, there are several varieties with pretty
pink and rosy red flowers. The Cornflower blue

flowers of Nigella Miss Jekyll find many admirers,
set as they are in a dainty network of narrow
foliage, aptly described as Love-in-a-mist. The
height of the plants varies from 12 inches to
15 inches.

The next group we may consider are those which
may be transplanted, but are preferably sown
where they are to flower. Most of these are
suitable for small groups or lines along the front of
the mixed border, as they range from 6 inches to
12 inches in height : Asperula azurea setosa,
Linmanthes Douglasii, Collinsia bicolor, Phacelia
campanularia, Saponaria calabrica, Virguiian Stock,
Venus' Looking-glass, Gilia tricolor and Gypsophila
elegans.

Clarkias and Godetias, Candytufts, the pot
Marigold, Calendula officinalis, the blue Corn-
flower, Scabious, Sweet Sultans, Coreopsis tinctoria
and annual Chrysanthemums are all of easy culti-
vation, and may be sown where they are to flower,
or on a spare border and transplanted. So much
has been said and written about Sweet Peas that
most readers will be familiar with their cultivation.
Experts are now pretty well unanimous that for
garden decoration and show purposes autumn
sowing is the best, spring sowing being only
necessary to provide a succession of blooms for
garden decoration and cutting in August and
September.

A useful dozen annuals for cutting are Sweet
Peas, Star Chrysanthemums, Orange King Calen-
dula (also a beautiful plant for massing in the
garden), Coreopsis tinctoria, German Scabious,
Shirley and Iceland Poppies, arranged with Gypso-
phila elegans, double Godetia, Clarkia Firefly,
blue Cornflower and Spiral Candytuft.

GERANIUM STRIATUM.

Now and again we come upon this old-fashioned
flower, which was known to, and was described
by, Parkinson more than 250 years ago, but which
has not retained the hold upon the affections of
gardeners that it should have done. Probably
the bedding mania drove this good hardy plant
from many gardens, and it has been well-nigh
forgotten by the compilers of catalogues and
writers on hardy flowers. Yet it has lingered in
many old gardens, and in one of these — a true
old-world one — the WTiter saw, not so very long
ago, a big mass of this striped Crane's-bill, with its
charming flowers with a groundwork of white,
and all veined with a lovely red veining, so delicate
and so pretty in its markings that it is almost
impossible to credit that it is not artificial, did
we not know that Dame Nature in her coloured
tracery far excels the handiwork of the most skilful
among us. This mass was very pretty, but it
did not require it to bring home to the writer the
true charms ot Geranium striatum, for he has
known and grown it for a good many years. It
is a favourite which he always likes to bring
before the notice of the garden visitor who may
not have been acquainted with the flower and
its deUcate pencilling, which gives so much charm
to the petals. This Crane's-bill is an easy plant to
grow, doing well in either sun or shade, but growing
more vigorously in the shade than in the sun,
though not, I think, so pretty as in the former.
There can be no question as to the hardiness of
this plant, although it comes to us from Southern
Europe, where it has a warmer clime than ours.
It adapts itself to the border or to the rockery, and
in either gives us high and lasting pleasure indeed.
Dumlries. S. .^rnott.

432

THE GARDEN.

[August 30, 1913.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

A DOUBLE-FLOWERED CEANOTHUS.

(C. ALBUS PLENUS.)

There are only comparatively few shrubs which
flower during late ^summer and autumn. Among

CEANOTHUS ALBUS PLENUS.

these the garden varieties of Ceanothus are
exceedingly pretty. Most of the spring-flowering
section are what may be termed on the borderland
of hardmess, and thrive best when planted against
a wall, e.xcept in mild districts. The autumn-
flowering hybrids, on the other hand, seldom suffer
when growing in the open, except in the very coldest
districts. Compared with the spring-flowering
kinds they are even more showy, embrace a wider
range of colours, and the blossoms last longer m
good condition on the plants. Flowering on the
current year's shoots, fairly hard pruning should be
practised m February or March to induce the produc-
tion of vigorous shoots. The plants, as a rule, are
grown as bushes in borders or beds, but may also be
trained against a low wall or fence. In the latter
case a few shoots must be left nearly full length, so
that in a year or two the space allotted is covered.

Ceanothuses thrive in most well-drained garden
soils, but a heavy clay loam should be avoided.
Cuttings root freely during July and August in
a close, slightly-heated propagatmg-frame. Potted
off singly when rooted in autumn and kept in a
heated pit during the winter, good bushy plants
can be obtamed full of flowers the following autumn.
To lay a gooa foundation, remove the tips of the
young shoots once or twice when the plants are
small. One of the secrets of success with the garden
varieties of Ceanothus, which are hard pruned each

spring, is to raise a fresh supply of young plants
from cuttings about every fourth or fifth year.

Shrubs with blue flowers are not numerous ;
with the Ceanothuses it is the predominating
colour. The following list comprises a representa-
tive selection : Albert Pittet, light pink ; albus
plenus (illustrated), double white, changmg to
cream ; Ceres, dwarf, light pink ; Charles
Detriche, deep blue ; Coquetterie, rose carmine ;
Croix du Sud, dark blue ; George Simon, carmine
pink ; Gloire de Plantieres, deep azure blue ;
Gloire de Versailles, light blue ; Indigo, indigo
blue ; Marie Simon, pink ; Perle Rose, rich deep
rose ; Pinguet Guindon, deep carmine ; Sirius,
metallic blue ; and Arnoldii, greyish blue.

SPIRyEA WILSONIL

This Spiraea, introduced a few years ago from
China by Mr. E. H. Wilson when collecting on
liehalf of Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, is proving
lo be a useful addition to our deciduous flowering
shrubs. Robust in growth, Spirjea Wilsonii forms
a large, spreading bush, 5 feet to 6 feet or more in
height. The inflorescences of white flowers termi-
nate short axillary shoots, which develop from the
upper two-thirds of last year's vigorous shoots.
As these bend over in a graceful, arching manner,
a bush in full flower presents a pleasing picture.
The flowers are borne in flattened, rather compact,
rounded corymbs about the middle of June. The
corymbs are li inches to 2^ inches across, the indi-
vidual flowers a quarter of an inch in diameter.
In addition to S. Wilsonii, Mr. E. H. Wilson has
introduced three other closely - alhed species,
namely, S. Henryi, S. Veitchii and S. sargentiana.
These four Spiraeas are very appropriately named
in compliment to four persons who have spared
no eiiorts to enrich our gardens with plants from
Central and Western China. S. Wilsonii differs
from S. Henryi in its smaller, more compact
inflorescences and the slightly shorter and rather
narrower leaves, and the flowers open from two
to three weeks earlier than that species. These
Spiraeas thrive in any good garden soil, and are
readily propagated from seeds or cuttings. The
latter, made of the half-ripened shoots, root freely
during August or September in pots of sandy soil
in a close propagating-frame. The long, arching
branches also layer readily. Forming a shapely
bush, S. Wilsonii makes a nice lawn specimen for
small or large gardens, while for large clumps and
shrubbery borders it is well worth consideration.
An occasional thinning out of the older branches
immediately after flowering is desirable, to give
the young shoots space to develop and ripen
their growth.

CHOICE BERRY-BEARING TREES
AND SHRUBS.

There are not wanting signs of an early autumn,
so that notes on berry-bearing trees and strubs
may not be out of place at this season.

Everyone is aware of the beauty of the Pyra-
cantha or Fire Thorn, for it makes many
a wail gay for several months of the year.
Tlien there is its near relative Cotoneaster angusti-
folia, or Pyracantha angustifolia as people are
now beginning to call it. This also is an evergreen,
but the fruits are orange or golden in colour. Less
hardy than the ordinary Pyracantha, it should
always be placed against a wall, except in the South
or South-West Counties. Light, loamy soil suits
both plants. The different kinds of Crataegus or
Thorn are, as a rule, very showy when in fruit ;

but if a tew kinds only are wanted, preference
should be given to C. mollis and C. coccinea, witii
large, bright red fruits ; C. punctata, with dark
red, and its variety xanthocarpa, with yellow,
fruits ; C. cordata, with small, orange scarlet
berries ; C. prunifoiia, with red fruits ; and C.
Carrierei, with orange and red haws. These are all
perfectly hardy, and all thrive in ordinary garden
soil. They do not require any special pruning, an
occasional thinning being all that is necessary.

Many of the Cotoneasters take high rank among
berry-bearing plants. For many years we have
had a number of showy kinds from the Himalaya,
while recent years have witnessed the introduction
of other beautiful sorts from China. Even at the
end of February their season of beauty is not over,
for we may see masses of C. rotundifolia covered
with bright red berries, a condition which has
prevailed since the early days of September.
For some reason this species is not troubled by birds
in the way that others are, and the birds only
take the berries when nothmg else can be obtained.
This particular species grows about four feet high,
and forms a good-sized bush of open habit. C.
horizontalis is another useful plant which thrives
well on a dry bank or against a wall. Its berries
are scarlet. C. thymifolia and C. microphylla are
two evergreen kinds of dwarf habit suitable for
growing on banks or rockeries. The berries are

SPIR.<EA WILSONII

AUGt'ST 30. 1913.

THE GARDEN.

483

10(1. Although naturally dwarf-growing kinds,
they are excellent for walls, and readily attain a
height ol 15 feet in such a position. C. pannosa
and C. Francbetii are Chinese species which grow
8 feet or 10 feet high, with a free branching habit.
The scarlet berries are freely produced, but their
effect is somewhat marred by the light covering
of greyish down with which they are protected.
Two quite new species of exceptional merit are
C. bullata and C. applanata. Both are Chinese
species of bushy habit, bearing bright red fruit.
In the case of the former they appear in rather
huge bunches. C. acutifolia, although not a new
plant, has been brought into prominent notice
by a particularly free-fruiting form which has
appeared from China. Everyone should obtain it
who is fond of red-berried shrubs. The old C.
Simonsii has been a friend for many years. Of
upright habit, it bears yellow and red berries
with great freedom. C. frigida is perhaps the giant
of the group, and may sometimes be met with
between 20 feet and 30 feet high. Its
large heads of bright red fruits are
particularly showy in autumn.

Pernettya mucronata is a dwarf,
evergreen, berry-bearing shrub belong-
ing to the Heath family. Growing
about one and a-half feet to two feet
high, it is conspicuous throughout
autumn by reason of its red berries.
There are varieties with light and dark
red fruits, and others with white and
purple fruits. Rather moist soil should
be provided, and notice must be taken
of its dislike for lime. Another decora-
tive fruiting plant belonging to the
Krica group is the Strawberry Tree
(.\rbutus Unedo). This forms a large
liush or smill tree with evergreen
leaves, rather shoivy flowers and round,
orange and red fruits, which are
covered with short, spmy excrescences.

The Pyrus family contains a great
many ornamental kinds. The Siberian
Crab and its varieties, together with
its close ally P. prunifolia, produce
particularly bright - coloured fruits,
while the various forms ol P. Malus,
of which John Downie, Dartmouth and
Transcendant Crab are worthy ex-
amples, are all useful. The Rowan
(P. Aucuparia), and its varieties,
together with the American Rowan
(P. americana), are general favourites ;
but, unfortunately, the berries are
often taken by birds as soon as they
are ripe. Pyrus Aria (the White Beam Tree) is showy
in hedgerows in some parts of the country. Its
several varieties, however, are well worth a place
in the garden. When one only is required, the
variety majestica should be chosen. A closely-
allied tree is P. rotundifolia. Like the Aria varieties,
it bears good-sized heads of red fruits. P. intermedia
and P. pinnatifida belong to the same set. They
also arc showy, and possess the advantage of being
excellent trees for planting in town gardens.

The new Berberis Wilsonas is one of the most
beautiful fruiting kinds among the newer Bar-
berries ; its fruits are red. In the same family
there are many kinds of decorative value, notably
B. dictyophylla, B. Lycium, B. aristata and the
common B. vulgaris. For fragrance, nothing is
more prominent than the dwarf-growing Cydonia
Maulei. The golden fruits are an inch or more
in diameter, and scent the air for a considerable

area in the vicinity of a bush. Rosa rugosa is
perhaps the most showy Rose when in fruit, but
all the kinds are worthy of attention, particularly
R. alpina pyrenaica, R. macrophylla, R. canina
and R. lucida. Euonymuses are represented by-
many showy species, notable ones being E. europaea,
E. latifolia, E. americana and E. planipes.

The list might be added to considerably, but
those mentioned serve to direct attention to the
best for general purposes. W. D.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

THE CAMPANULAS OR BELL
FLOWERS.

IT is difficult to conceive a more valuable
class of plants for the outdoor garden than
the Campanulas or Bellflowers. They are
most diverse in their habits of growth
and in their general appearance. They present

in the border. For example, C. carpatica and its
forms, with C. portenschlagiana and a number of
others, make excellent border flowers in a
moderately light soil. So, also, the owner of
a large rock garden may utilise some of the
taller species mentioned for borders for the
decoration of his rockeries. Some of these are,
indeed, of remarkably telling effect in certain parts
of the rock garden, where their impressive appear-
ance is fully appreciated.

Campanulas for the Rock Garden.— The wealth
of these lovely flowers is embarrassing in the
extreme, but one can hardly have too many,
especially as they are so valuable after early alpines
are out of flower, and are so distinct from the other
plants which bloom from June onwards. A
considerable number are remarkably easy to
cultivate, and call for little attention for years,
except division, when they grow too large, and
some top-dressing in autumn and spring. Others
require more care, and these will be referred to

THE WALL H.\REBELL (C.AMP.^NUL.-V PORTENSCHLAGL\N.\) IN THE ROCK GARDEN.

US %vith species suitable for the choicest rock
garden or flower border ; they supply us with
plants for bedding or for the mixed border ; while
in the wild garden a number of the stronger
growers can be accommodated with advantage.
As they differ in appearance, so do they vary in
their cultural requirements. Some are extremely
easy to cultivate in ordinary soil, while others
call for the best skill and care of the cultivator
in giving them what they desire in the way of
aspect, soil, or moisture.

In discussing the Campanulas it is difficult to
arrange them in groups, but the ^vriter thinks it
advisable to divide the perennial and biennial
species and their varieties into two sections, not
according entirely to their heights, but because the

under their names. Generally speaking, they
can be raised from seeds, or increased by division
in spring or autumn. Seeds may be sown from
February to June under glass, or as soon as they
are ripe, in pots or pans of sandy soil slightly
covered with fine earth and placed under glass.
Seedlings should have air as soon as they show
above the ground, ought to be pricked out as soon
as they are fit to handle, and be planted in their
permanent positions after growing on. Some
root from cuttings, but division is the best method
to adopt with many. If small pieces are taken,
they should be potted and nursed under glass for
a short time before committing them to the
rockery. The writer finds that partial shade is
excellent for most of the dwarfer Campanulas,

first group is, as a whole, better suited for the and that they last longer in bloom there than in
rock garden than for the border. Any of the I full sun. On the other hand, some require full
best alpine Campanulas will, however, succeed sun. A sandy, gritty soil is best for most of these

434

THE GARDEN.

[August 30, 1913,

rock garden Bellflowers, but certain species either
require or are best grown in the moraine, in which
most of them will thrive admirably. The annual
species will be mentioned briefly at the close of
these articles. Synonyms abound among the
Campanulas, and there are grave differences among
those best acquainted with them as to their true
names. No claim is made to infallibility on this
point, but the best authorities are followed, unless
for reasons which appear to the writer to be
conclusive.

Campanula abietina. — A well-known rock or

border plant, growing about nine inches high,
but occasionally exceeding this, and bearing upright,
open flowers of purple. It does well in gritty soil,
but should be divided every two years, or it will
flower sparsely and may die out.
It requires a good deal of moisture
during the growing season. A South
European species, liking sun, and
flowering in June and July.

C. Adami. — See belUdifolia.

C. Allioni. — One of the trouble-
some but most beautiful of the rock
garden Campanulas. It has rather
hairy leaves and big blue bells in
July, and is only 2 inches or
3 inches high. Grow in very sandy,
gritty soil and in semi-shade. It
needs top-dressing in spring and
autumn, and soakings with water in
spring and summer. The moraine
is the best place for it. As with
many others, slugs should be
guarded against. There is a beau-
tiful white variety. Lime should be
kept from this plant. S. Arnott.
[To be continued.)

portion curving into a kind of spring, which
enables the seed to be thrown to a considerable
distance. Reginald A. Malby.

LFNUM ARBOREUM.

This is, to my mind, the best of the yellow forms

of Flax. It flowers so wonderfully freely, and is

of such a delightful clear Daffodil yellow, lighter

and with less of orange in it than in Linum flavum

or L. capitatum ; and also, when out of flower,

the leaves are attractive by reason of their colour,

a good glaucous green, almost steely blue. Here

j it is not a very long-lived plant, three year old

; plants often perishing in winter or appearing to

I flower themselves to death ; but as it is easily

' struck bv cuttings it should be treated as one

A BEAUTIFUL
GERANIUM.

Geranivm lancasiriense origi-
nating, I believe, in the Isle of Wal-
ney, is a variety of G. sanguineum,
and not only has it at one leap
altered its colour from magenta
crimson to a delicate pink, veined
with fine purplish red lines, but the
bushy, sprawling -hummock of its
progenitor has given place to a
close- growing, compact habit, which
makes it an ideal plant for the
smallest rock garden. My plants,
which are growing in an open,
sunny spot, in gritty, though
otherwise ordinary soil, do not
e.xceed 2 inches or 3 inches in
height,' while the whole carpet,
composed of deeply-divided leaveSj is, during
June and early July, one mass of blossom,
which latter, owing to the deeply-coloured veins,
has the appearance of a much richer colour than
the groundwork of the petals themselves. The
buds nod very gracefully, while after pollination
the long, spear-like fruits are held quite erect.
The texture of the petals suggests crumpled silk,
while the stigma and filaments, with their rich
pink coloration, are in striking contrast to the
anthers, which are yellowish buff. This year in
particular the plants have set a considerable
quantity of seed, and I am hoping to raise
a number of further plants therefrom. It is
interesting to notice on a dry day, when the
fruits are ripe, how the carpels split, each

HERBACEOUS BORDERS AT
SALISBURY CLOSE.

(See Special Supplement.)

THE herbaceous borders of the North
Canonry Garden in the Close at Salis-
bury are beautiful not only in them-
selves, but also in regard to their sur-
roundings. They face north and south,
and the soft green turf walk that divides
them is 115 yards long. Westwards, one looks on
to the Avon and its green water-meadows beyond ;
eastwards, on the old canonical house and the great
cathedral spire towering behind and above it.
The borders are 12 feet wide and always full
of colour, from the early spring, when the Crown
Imperials are a special feature,
through the summer months on into
the autumn. But perhaps their
time of perfection is tlie latter half
of June or the month of July. Then,
one cannot easily forget the beauty
of the climbing Roses (Crimson
Rambler, Hiawatha, Lady Gay,
Captain Christy, Dorothy Perkins,
Olga de Wurtemburg and many
others) at the back of the border, of
masses of Delphinium, Anchusa,
Spiraea, Cimicifuga, Pyrethrum and
Campanula ; and in the foreground
bush Roses and Violas of every
kind and description. Their season,
however, is well-nigh over, in this
month of August, but their places
are filled by more autumnal blos-
soms. Phlox and Helianthus, Eri-
geron and Echinops, Tritoma and
Antirrhinums of various species, and
clumps of Gypsophila and Statice
are giving a wealth of colour and
beauty to tl^e borders now that
makes one cease to regret their
forefathers.

Constance Page-Roberts.

GERANIUM LANCASTRIENSE, FLOWERS DELICATE PINK

would a Cistus and keep a reserve of young plants to
fill up gaps. The illustration on page 435 is of a plant
moved to its present position last auturrm and about
two years old. The effect of its brilliant yellow
flowers against the grey Kentish Rag rock was very
delightful. It comes from the Levant, and is one of
the many good things introduced by Sibthorp, the
author of that magnificent book, the " Flora Graeca."
In his day it was grown as a greenhouse plant, and
is said to form bushes several feet high under that
treatment. Here in the open I have never known it
get much higher than a foot before it was killed.
Young plants are certainly hardier than older and
more woody specimens, as is the case with so many
of the more tender Cistuses.

Wallham Cross, E. A. Bowles.

SWEET PEA MOTHER
O' PEARL.

In a very mild way Mother o' Pearl
has had the interesting experience
of waking up to suddenly find itself
famous. I am surprised at the
number of enquiries I have had
about it, and all because I said it
was sweet. It is clear that scent is
still appreciated, although it seems
to have been so much neglected in
the evolution of the much-belauded
beauties of to-day that one might
well think it were otherwise. Mother o' Pearl was
raised by Mr. H. Aldersev of Aldersey Hall, Chester,
and was the result of a cross made in 1900 between
Mrs. Fitzgerald and Lady Grisel Hamilton. It was
one of the F^ seedlings which survived the wet sum-
mer of 1902, and it was fixed by the old-fashioned
pre-Mendelian system of the gradual elimination of
the rogues. I once asked Mrs. Aldersey which was
her favourite Sweet Pea among all that her husband
had raised. Her answer was unexpected : " Mother
o' Pearl, because of its delicate colour and sweet
scent." Mr. Aldersey tells me that his Moonstone
and Opal are the result of a Countess Spencer selec-
tion crossed with Mother o' Pearl. In both the
delicious fragrance of the pollen parent has to a very
large extent been retained. Joseph Jacob.

August 30, 1913-]

THE GARDEN.

435

DAFFODIL NOTES.

Midland Daffodil Society's Affairs. — In the

first week in August, Mr. Herbert Smith (the hon.
secretary), Mr. C. L. Adams and myself had an
informal meeting to talk over the affairs of the
Midland Daffodil Society. Mr. Smith said that
he would be able to continue to act as secretary
as heretofore, and that the society might count
on the same clerical help from the staff of Robert
Sydenham, Limited, as has been so tmsparingly
given in the past. This is good news indeed,
for next to the personality of our late treasurer
I look upon these as the two most important
factors in the building up of our annual show.
They are the sure foundations on which the super-
structure of bloom is laid. Another point that
was discussed was the annual dinner.
It was, of course, the private
affair of Mr. Sydenham, but it
was invariably given and conducted
in such a way that it seemed to
have become part and parcel of
the show. Several expressions of
opinion had reached us as to the
advisability of trying to continue
it. It was eventually settled that
Mr. Adams should soimd certain
members to see if enough support
could be obtained, apart altogether
from the fimds of the society, to
make the holding of an annual
dinner a possibility. The result is
to be reported to a general meet-
mg, which it is proposed to hold
in the early part of December. Until
then, too, Mr. Smith will act as hon.
treasurer.

The Midland Daffodil Society's
Report and 1914 Schedule.— There
is but little to comment upon in
either. In the latter it will be
noticed that the seedling and new
varieties section has been still fur-
ther extended by the inclusion of
two new classes, one for three dis-
tinct varieties not in commerce, ol
which nine stems of each must
be shown, and the other for si.\
distinct varieties of white trumpet
Daffodils that have not been in
commerce more than fotir years,
in which whiteness is to be the
supreme test. I feel sure this
policy of extension is sotmd and
wise. Seedling-raising has spread,
and continues to spread, among
Daffodil-lovers, and every society
ought to provide as many opportunities as
possible for its members to display their achieve-
ments m friendly rivalry.

Royal Horticultural Society's ClassiOed
List of Daffodils.— I am glad to say that a
new edition of this necessary little book for
show men will be issued this auttmm. I wonder
how many hundred names will be in it 1 Will
it be possible to keep it up to date now
so many seedlings are coming up ? The task
is one of increasing difficulty, and yet its
necessity does not diminish, as Colonial and
Dutch seedlings must be now reckoned with.
No one wants Admiration to be one variety in
Holland, another in New Zealand, and a third
at home.

A New Zealand Narcissus Committee.— 1

fear I am very ignorant about the doings of
Australasian Daffodillers. I knew that there
were fine shows down in those distant parts
of our Empire, and that the names of Alistair
Clarke and Thomas were household words as
seedling-raisers ; but I had no idea until
recently that events had sn far progressed that
a Narcissus committee was in existence in the
Canterbury Horticultural Society, whose head-
quarters are at Christchurch. A most interest-
ing paper will appear in the Bulb Number of
The Garden, written by the secretary of this
conmiittee, dealing with the progress of the flower
in New Zealand.
The Royal Horticultural Society's Daffodil

Year Book. — Before these notes are in print the
puhlic.ition of the Year Book will be an accomplished

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

TREATMENT OF RASPBERRIES
AFTER FRUITING.

IT is a matter of much importance, especially
if the crop has been a heavy one, to cut
out all the old fruiting canes immediately
they have ceased bearing, and also the
young, useless growths not required
for next season's crop. Raspberries are
among the easiest of fruits to cultivate, and if
given reasonable attention produce a very profit-
able return. They delight in a rather moist, well-
drained, fertile soil, and, being essentially surface-
rooting plants, require all the fibrous roots to be
preserved as much as possible and liberally fed with
liquid manure in hot, dry weather, together with
good mulchings of thoroughly-decayed manure.

LINUM ARBOREUM IN MR. E. A. BOWLES' ROCK GARDEN. (See page 434.]

fact. I would like to take this opporttmity of
saying that I hope readers will remember that it
is a " first attempt," and, secondly, that I was
not appointed to collect material until it was too
late to make full arrangements about getting
reports of provincial shows. These, I trust, will
be fuller and more plentiful another year,
should there be sufficient support forthcoming to
warrant a second attempt. Naturally, the Royal
Horticultural Society has a mercantile side ; or,
to put it plainly, a second Year Book depends
upon the number of copies of No. i that are sold.
The price is is. 6d. (or is. gd. post free), and it
may be had from the Royal Horticultural Society's
Offices, Vincent Square, Westminster. Verb,
sap. Joseph Jacob.

Our favourite variety here is Superlative, and
if the berries are not as sweet as some, they are
most abundantly produced in the majority of
seasons. The soil at 'A'rotham Park is rather light,
resting on gravel, so that constant attention to
liberal feeding is of the greatest importance to
maintain healthy, fruitful canes.

About the end of July or the beginning of August
all the old canes are cut down to the ground, taken
away and bmrned, and the strongest of the young
growths which have been made this season are
tied rather loosely to the wires about six inches
apart, so that both light and air may circulate
freely among them to encourage firm, well-matured
canes. If it is intended to make fresh plantations
when the proper time for planting arrives, some

4^6

THE GARDEN.

[August 30, 1913.

of the small canes may be removed carefully with
roots attached and planted temporarily for the
time bemg. Having gone carefully over the beds
and put them in order, we usually apply a good
coating of manure on both sides of the rows, and
give a thorough soaking of v;ater if the weather
proves very dry. H. Markham.

Wrotham Park Gardens, Bariiel.

HINTS ON RIPENING MELONS.

In hundreds of gardens Melons will be ripening
during August and September, and inexperienced
cultivators will hesitate as to whether they should
water as usual or withhold it. During a rather
long experience as a Melon-grower I do not remem-
ber having had a single failure owing to watering
generally. I have seen many plants killed prema-
turely through lack of moisture at the roots after
the fruits began to colour and mature. Of course,
the plants do not need as much moisture at the roots
iin- ill the air at the' stage referred to, but I never

THE GREENHOUSE.

ERLANGEA TOMENTOSA.

THIS pretty Composite, which is closely
allied to Vernonia, is so useful for
conservatory decoration that it is
worthy of more general cultivation.
It was introduced in 1907, and is a
widely-distributed species in Tropical
Africa, ranging from British East Africa to the
Zambesi. Its pretty pale mauve flowers are
very attractive, having a resemblance to
a Eupatorium. It is easily propagated from
cuttings placed in a warm case. From cuttings
rooted early in March large plants some 5 feet high
can easily be grown in one season, stopping them
several times to ensure a bushy habit. Such plants
require to be potted on until they are in 8-inch
pots. They commence flowering early in the New
Year, and continue in good condition until June.

ERLANGEA TOMENTOSA, WITH ATTRACTIVE PALE MAUVE FLOWERS.

favoured the drying-off system. The withholding
of water is generally adopted with the idea that
the fruits will be richer in flavour. If carried too
far, the system will result in loss of flavour instead
of an increase. It is a fact that thousands of
plants are practically dead when the fruits are
gathered, whereas they ought to be in a condition
to bear a second crop on extended laterals if neces-
sary. I always continued the supply of water
up to the time the fruits were ripe. At first,
when the Melons gave off a slight aroma,
less water was applied. During the last week
sufficient water was given to keep the leaves
plump and in a fresh condition only. The
Melons were cut directly they were ripe enough
and stored in a cool room for two days before they
were cut open, and very few approved varieties
failed to give satisfaction. Plenty of air was
admitted during the ripening period, and on hot
days the floor was freely damped. B.

From later-rooted stock nice useful plants
in 4j-inch pots can be grown, as shown in the
illustration. In its earlier stages it may be grown in
an intermediate temperature ; afterwards ordinary
greenhouse temperature is all that is necessary.
There are two forms in cultivation, one the typical
plant with grey, tomentose leaves. The other
form has smaller green leaves, and is not such a
coarse-growing plant. On this account it is
better suited for growing in small pots, as it has a
stiffer habit, audits flowers, if anything, are darker
in colour. ] S.

HYDRANGEAS IN THE
GREENHOUSE.

In the more favoured parts of these islands the
common Hydrangea (H. Hortensia) is justly valued
as one of the finest outdoor shrubs. Even where
it cannot be depended upon to prove satisfactory

out of doors. It IS greatly appreciated tor the
embellishment of the garden in many ways. Grown
ill large pots or tubs it forms a notable feature on
terraces, balconies or similar positions, and either
as bushy specimens or as comparatively small
plants it is much grown for the decoration of the
greenhouse or conservatory. The cause of the
Hydrangea changing its normal pink flowers to
some shade of blue has aroused a considerable
amount of interest. It is usually considered to be
due to the presence of iron in the soil ; but absence
of lime would also appear to play a part.

Probably in no other way does the Hydrangea
appeal so much to the general public as when grown
in comparatively small pots and confined to a single
stem, each plant carrying one huge head of blossoms.
For flowering next year in this fashion the cuttings
should be taken at once, selecting for the purpose
shoots that, if left on the plant, would, as far as
can be determined, flower next year. Put in sandy
soil and placed in a frame kept close and shaded,
they will soon root, and must then be wintered in
a cool greenhouse or in a frame safe from frost.
The cuttings should be put into single pots, so that
they may, if required, stand the winter without
being disturbed. Some, however, for the sake of
succession, prefer to shift some of the strongest
plants into larger pots as soon as they are sufficiently
rooted.

The common Hydrangea, the dark-stemmed
variety cyanoclada, and Thomas Hogg, with
smallish heads of white flowers, were for many
years the principal kinds grown. Then came
Mariesii, with very large sterile blossoms, but
limited only to a few around the outside of the
cluster. The colour of this is pink, but there is a
white form known as Veitchii. Within the last few
years, however, a great number of new garden
varieties of H. Hortensia have been raised, chiefly
on the Continent. Many of them are very fine,
and one at least may be said to have bounded into
popularity, namely, Mme. E. MouUi^re, which
bears enormous heads of white flowers. This
quickly became an established market plant.
.Another new kind is Lilie MouUifere, whose flowers
are of a bright rose pink with a light centre.
La Perle is another beautiful pure white flower,
remarkable for its fringed edges. E. G. Fjlll, said
by the raiser — M. Lemoine — to be the result of a
cross between H. rosea and H. Otaksa, is a very
fine variety with soft rose flowers. The largest
individual blossoms, but they are not very
numerous, are those of Beaute Vendoraoise, of a
pale mauve tint. A variety which Messrs. Cutbush
of Highgate, who grow these plants so well, say,
if treated with their preparation, makes the finest
blue Hydrangea bears the extremely long name
of GenSrale Vicomtesse de Vibraye. Another ol
the newer kinds that has caught on in this country
is Mile, Renee Gaillard. This bears huge heads
of milk white flowers, whose edges are markedly
toothed.

While all the above are forms ot H. Hortensia,
another totally different species is largely employed
for greenhouse decoration. This is Hydrangea
paniculata grandiflora, which, if pruned back
hard and well fed, produces huge heads of creamy
white blossoms. Out of doors it does not, as a rule,
bloom much before August, but brought on under
glass it may be had in flower a good deal earlier.
A variety of the North American H. arborescens
known as grandiflora, with rounded heads of pure
white flowers, something like those of the Snowball
Tree, was sent here from America a few years ago,
and increases in popularity each season. H. P.

Ai i.UST 30, lyij.j

THE GARDEN.

437

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

THEKK are few gardens, both large and
small, that can afford to dispense
with the liedding Violas or Tufted
Pansies. They are so easy to grow,
thriving in most soils and situations,
and with care and attention will
continue in flower for si.\ or seven months, namely,
fri>in April to October. And when in bloom

I. IHE GROWTH ON THE LEFl, BEING COARSE

AND HOLLOW STEMMED, IS OF NO VALUE
AS A CUTTING. ON THE RIGHT IS SHOWN
THE BEST FORM OF CUTTING, BEING OF
RECENT DEVELOPMENT AND ABOUT 2 INCHES
IN LENGTH.

what a blaze of colour they make ! and there is
such a wide range of colours to choose from.
August and early September are the best months
to insert cuttings. There are on most of the plants
at this time plenty of young shoots, i inch to
2 inches long, pushing up in the centres of the
tufts of growths. Try to pull these out carefully,
not cut them with a knife, and if a few roots are
already attached so much the better. Inserted
now while the nights are warm, the cuttings will
soon develop into sturdy young plants, quite
able to stand the winter in the open if the protection
of a cold frame is not available.

A good position to root the cuttings is under the
shelter of a north or west wall, where plenty of
light will reach them, but little or no sun. Should
it be intended to insert several hundred cuttings,
a bed of light sandy soil may be made up on the
border and hand-lights or a frame placed on it.
For smaller quantities use shallow boxes, a con-
venient size to handle bemg 15 inches by 9 inches,
and 2 inches deep. A suitable compost or mixture
of soil consists of two parts sandy loam, one part
flaky leaf-mould, and one part road grit 01 coarse

HOW TO INCREASE VIOLAS.

sand. Press the soil fairly hrm, and spread over
it a thin layer of fine sand to trickle in round the
cutting as each hole is made with a dibber and the
cutting inserted. As soon as each hand-light or
box is completed, water the cuttings well with a
fine rose on the watering-can. A box of the size
given will hold fifty cuttings. Rather more space
may be allowed when dibbling them in a frame
on a prepared border, ij mches apart and 2 inches
between the rows being a convenient distance.

A selection of good free-flowering sorts for
beds and borders is as follows : White Swan,
Primrose Dame, Canary, Moseley Perfection
(large rich yellow), Maggie Mott (mauve). Councillor
Waters (magenta purple), Bridal Mom (heliotrope
blue), Archie Grant (mdigo blue), J. B. Riding
(rose purple), Kitty Bell (lilac). Kingcup (rich
yellow), Mrs. H. Pearce (pure white) and Peace
(white, edged heliotrope).

Those readers who would like to make a hobby
of choice exhibition Violas, either for show or for
the pleasure of their family, will find their culture
full of mterest. Quahty of the flowers rather than
quantity in this case is, of course, the primary
consideration. Those who have used Violas for
dinner-table decoration are loud hi their praises
of them. Many people think them too common,
but it is not always the most expensive flowers
which produce the best effects. Try, to start
with, a table of Maggie Mott, lightened with a few
pieces of the pereimial Gypsophila paniculata.
With the choice exhibition sorts use pots for the
cuttings, as the numbers inserted will be much
less. When nicely rooted, plant them out 3 inches
apart on a prepared bed in a cold frame for the
winter. Give plenty of ventilation durmg the
winter, only closing the lights entirely on frosty
nights and removing them altogether on warm,
sunny days. April is a good time to plant them
out where they are to flower.

Twelve choice exhibition sorts are George C.
Murray, Goalkeeper, Jessie Baker, Jeanie Stirling,
Jenny Houston, Kate Cochrane, Lady Knox,
Mrs. Chichester, Mary Bumie, Mrs. H. Pearce,
William Lockwood and Rose Noble. With the
choicer sorts, at this season some difficulty may
be experienced in obtaining cuttings. To encourage
their production give the plants at once a liberal top-
dressing of rich soil, using, mixed with it. Clay's
Fertilizer or guano. We have used flaky leal-
mould and Clay's Fertilizer, with very good results.
Following several good soakings with water
the uicreased vigour of the plants will soon be
noticeable. Other measures to take to induce the
production of cuttings is to cut off some of the
oldest growths and keep all seed-pods picked off.

Raising from Seeds.— There is even more
interest attached to the raising of Violas from seeds
than there is in rooting cuttings, for on the one
hand the colour of the flowers is already known,
but with seedlings their flowering is awaited with
interest. Recently, when on a visit to Messrs.
.Sutton's Trial Grounds at Reading, a large stretch
of mixed seedling bedding Violas was noted being
grown for seed, a considerable number of the
flowers being equal to many named sorts. Seeds
sown thinly now in a shallow bos and placed in
a cold frame will give good plants for next season's
flowering. In addition to a packet of mi.\ed seeds.

those who wish it can purchase seeds in separate
colours, these including white, yellow, primrose,
black, purple and mauve. A. O.

MIGNONETTE FOR WINTER
FLOWERING.

A FEW pots of well-grown Mignouette make a
charmhig feature in the greenhouse or conservatory
during the latter part of winter and in spring.
If carefully grown, splendid specimens will result.
I remember assisting in making the awards at a
spring flower show, and, among other kinds of
plants, there were pots of Mignonette. The size
of the pots was restricted to 6i inches. In some
pots only one plant was grown, in others two and
three plants respectively. All were very fine,
but the pot with the single plant was the best.
The plant had branched out wonderfully, and
appeared of greater bulk than the three plants in
a pot ; furthermore, the flower-spikes were larger.

jSowing the Seeds. — It is not advisable to sow
seeds too early, else the resultant plants will flower
prematurely, however much the cultivator strives
to prevent this, and they should be kept growing
steadily. Drop three seeds in a 3-inch flower-pot
filled with loam and leaf-soil in equal proportions.
To one bushel of the combined parts add a 7-iiich
potful of rotted manure and a 6-inch potful of
coarse sand. If procurable, add a small quantity
of road scrapings. Lightly cover the seeds and then
place the pots in a cold frame, but admit plenty
of air, as it is necessary to prevent the resultant
seedlings becoming drawn and weakly. In fine
weather, as the seedlmgs gain strength, remove the
glass lights altogether ; also draw out the two
weakest plants, leaving only one plant in each pot.
Before the plant gets pot-bound, repot in a 5-inch
pot, using a similar compost. When the plants are
about four inches high, pinch off the tops, and thus
cause side shoots to grow. Sometimes five or six
strong shoots may be secured, and these will be
sufficient to form a nice specimen. In due course
one more repotting may take place. From October
to the flowering stage place the plants on a shelf in
a greenhouse, and always water carefully. B.

-THE CUTTING ON THE LEFT IS PREPARED

FOR INSERTION. ON THE RIGHT IS SEEN

A GROWTH WITH A FEW ROOTS ADHERING.

SUCH GROWTHS ARE MOST USEFUL FOR
PROPAGATION.

488

THE GARDEN.

[August 30, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Early - Flowering Chrysanthemums. — The

earliest varieties are already making a good show
of bloom, and to prolong the flowering period they
must be kept fairly moist at the root. Thrip has
been somewhat troublesome this season, and
wherever this pest is present, the plants should be
sprayed with an insecticide, afterwards giving them
a good wash over with the syringe or hose. The
plants that are being grown for cut flowers will,
naturally, be cut over as the blooms open, but
those for garden decoration should have the stale
blooms removed as often as necessary.

The Herbaceous Border. — There is always a
certain amount of work on the herbaceous border,
and just now, when many of the summer-flowering
plants are going over, there is much to do, cutting
down and making tidy so that the dead and dying
flowers do not in any way detract from the beauty
of those that are opening. At the time of writing,
herbaceous plants are suffering severely for want
of rain, and should we not get it in quantity during
the next week or two, it will mean the weakening,
if not the loss, of many of the more tender subjects,
unless, of course, they have been systematically
watered.

Plants Under Glass.

Mignonette. — The present is a very suitable
time for making a sowing of Mignonette for spring
blooming. I prefer to sow a few seeds in 3-inch
pots, thinning the seedlings to four or five when
large enough to handle, and potting on into 4j-inch
pots or 6-inch pots at the turn of the year, or as
soon as fit. For the production of large spikes
of bloom, firm potting is very essential, and where
sowing direct into the flowering pots is practised,
the soil should be well rammed ; but in this latter
case the watering must be carefully done, or the
larger body of soil soon becomes sour ; hence the
advice as to sowing in 3-inch pots.

Schizanthuses. — These may also be sown in the
manner advised for Mignonette, thiiming to one
plant in a pot when large enough ; or they may be
sown in pan<i, pricking off before the seedlings
become too large.

Clarliias call for similar treatment ; but in this
case they should be sown in pans or boxes and
pricked off. Firefly, Salmon Queen, Brilliant
Princess and White Prince are all desirable varieties.
To be really successful with these annuals they
must be carefully looked after diuring the dull
days of late autumn and winter, careful watering
and plenty of light and air being absolutely essential,
so that a good, airy house or well-ventilated frame
should be devoted to them.

Lachenalias. — A batch of this pretty spring-
flowering bulbous plant should be potted up at
once into 4j-inch pots, this being the most useful
sized pot for the subject. A fairly rich and open
compost suits them well. After potting and
watering in, the pots should be stood in a frame
where a mat can be put over them to prevent them
drying out too much till growth commences. The
variety Nelsonii is perhaps the best, while L. pendula,
tricolor and quadricolor are distinct and pretty.

Begonia Gloire de Lorraine.— If any of the

plants are not in pots sufficiently large for their
requirements, no time should be lost in getting
them potted on, and at this time a large shift should
not be necessary. Where good bushy specimens
are required, the plants should be staked out as
soon as the side growths are sufficiently long to
warrant it, and it these are staked out fairly flat
they will soon make breaks and so fill up the
centre of the plants. Plants well rooted in the
flowering pots may be fairly liberally treated as to
water and liquid manure.

Begonias Gloire de Sceaux, haageana, &c., that
are being grown on for winter and spring decora-
tion, should be potted on as soon as fit into 6-inch
pots or 8J-inch pots, giving them a good rich
compost, so that with plenty of room they may
develop their rich foliage to the fullest extent.
Occasional sprayings overhead are necessary to
keep the foliage clean, but, as the days shorten,
this may be dropped in favour of frequent spray-
ings between the pots, or it may be found that the
foliage will get rather soft and the edges become

marked. To keep down 'mite or thrip, a light
fumigation should be given now and again.

The Kitchen Garden.

Cauliflower Autumn Giant should now be turn-
ing in, and it may be found necessary to keep the
plants frequently watered if good heads are required.
If pulled up when quite tight, they will keep for
some days if stored in a cool shed or cellar and the
light kept from them.

Autumn Broccoli also may be subjected to the
same treatment. In many places the growth made
during the summer has been somewhat irregular ;
but now that the sun is losing its strength some-
what, one or two good waterings might materially
help them. .

Onions. — Autumn-sown and spring-planted
Onions from boxes are now ripening fast. This
being the case, they may be eased from the gromid
a little, and when it is found that the roots have
no further hold of the soil, they should be taken up
and placed on hurdles or mats to facilitate the
drying process. This latter should be carefully
done, as these large Onions, if well ripened and
dried, will keep almost as long as the smaller ones_

Spinach. — A good sowing of Spinach should be
made during the next few days to stand the winter,
and if the soil is heavy, it is a good plan to throw
out a narrow trench on each side of a bed about six
feet wide, this raising the soil a few inches and at
the same time keeping it well drained.
Hardy Fruits.

Plums. — Many varieties are now ripening fast,
and every precaution must be taken against wasps
and birds. For bottling or preserving purposes the
fruits should not be allowed to remain till they are
dead ripe, or the skin is likely to be damaged in
the gathering. This, the cooks inform us, is not
at all desirable, and those of us who are in charge
of gardens know full well we have to study the
chej de cuisine.

Loganberries that have finished fruiting should
have all the old wood taken out, tying in only
those growths that are required for next season's
fruiting. If these are not as strong as one would
wish, a good soaking with liquid manure will
probably have the desired effect, as the plants
make a good deal of growth during the early
autumn. Thomas Stevenson.

(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wobtirn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Autumn Propagation. — This work must now
be prosecuted with vigour. Calceolarias need not
be propagated for another month yet, and there
is no hurry for bedding Violas. Among plants
which should now be propagated are Ageratums,
Alyssums, Petunias, Fuchsias, Phloxes, Pent-
stemons. Antirrhinums, Anthemis Kelwayi, &c.
A compost of loam, leaf-mould and sharp sand
in equal parts suits the purpose admirably. Shallow
boxes provided with openings for drainage will
be found the most suitable kind of receptacle
for the cuttings. Pass the compost through
a half-inch wire sieve and place the rough portion
in the bottom of the boxes. Press the soil very
firm, and it is an advantage to finish off with a
little clean sand. Insert the cuttings somewhat
thickly, but according to the vigour of the subjects,
place in a cold frame, and give a good watering
through a fine rose. Keep the frame close and
shaded from bright simshine till roots are emitted.

Miscellaneous Bulbs. — Scillas should find a
place in every garden. S. sibirica, S. bifolia and
S. vema are all worthy of inclusion. Chionodoxas,
too, followmg hard on the Snowdrops, should be
freely grown. C. gigantea, C. Luciliae (Glory of
the Snow) and C. sardensis are each little gems.
Fritillarias are also highly decorative sprmg flowers.
The varieties of F. imperialis (Crown Imperial)
spring up as if by magic, followed by various other
species, among which F. Meleagris (Snake's-head
Fritillary) is specially worthy of commendation.
Then there are the Snowflakes and the Dog's-
tooth Violets (Erythronium Dens-canis). Among
not too hardy but highly desirable things are the
Camassias, Anomatheca cruenta, Schizostylis
coccinea and the lovely Ferrarias, a collection of

which has been charming us here from day to day
for weeks.

The Rose Garden.

Garden Roses. — I am using this phrase in Its
widest sense, including Provence, Damask, Moss,
Japanese, Scotch Briar and Sweet Briar. These
old-fashioned Roses deserve more attention than
they get nowadays, and I hope some readers will
remember them when making up their Rose orders.
A portion of the garden might be devoted to them,
or they will be grateful for odd comers. Some of
the stronger-growing species make a fine back-
ground for a herbaceous border. Most of them
can be increased by suckers, and all by layers or
cuttings.

Budded Stocks. — ^These must be looked over,
and if the ligatures are too tight they should be
slackened.

The Rock Garden.

Cutting Back. — No part of a garden will, if
left alone, give quicker evidence that the law of
" the survival of the fittest " (e.g., strongest and
coarsest) is still operating than the rockwork ;
hence the necessity for constant vigilance. Ceras-
tiums, Antennarias, Thymes, Arabises, Aubrietias,
Saxifrages and a host of other things require cutting
back from time to time, and the present is an oppor-
tune period for a thorough overhauling, so that the
more compact subjects may get the full advantage
of the declining sunlight and have a free circulation
of air round them during the winter months, thus
saving many of them from damping off.

Plants Under Glass.

Crinums. — As these go out of flower, water
should be gradually withheld till they are thoroughly
dried off.

Pancratiums. — After blooming, these should have
less water, but they do not require an entire rest
like the Crinums.

Gloxinias. — Plants that flowered during the
summer will now have gone to rest. If not required,
they should be thrown away ; but if to be retained
for another season, they may be stored away for
the winter where the temperature does not fall
below 50° to 55'.

Pelargoniums. — As soon as the plants have
started into growth they shoifld be repotted,
stood in a cool pit or frame and kept rather close
for a week or ten days. Use pots a size less than
those which the plants occupy at present. Trim
the roots with a sharp knife. Do not use a very
rich soil ■. pot firmly.

Fruits Under Glass.

Early Vines. — These must now be induced to
go naturally to rest by maintaining dry conditions,
with a free circulation of air. Should cold, wet
weather occur, however, a little fire-heat should
still be applied to maintain a buoyant atmosphere.

Peaches. — As these begin to shed their leaves
naturally, the process of defoliation should be
accelerated by going over the trees lightly with a
new Birch broom, brushing from the stem towards
the extremities of the tree.

Wasps. — Traps must be set for these wherever
there is ripe fruit. Bottles partially filled wth
sour beer and sugar and hung on the trellises
prove very efficacious.

The Vegetable Garden.

Late Caulitlowers. — Cauliflowers enjoy moist
conditions, aird if dry weather occurs it may be
necessary to water the late crops, especially on
light soils. Sutton's Mammoth, when liberally
grown, gives grand results in autumn.

Late Peas. — Peas have done remarkably well
this season to date, but it is during the next six
weeks that the difference between liberal and
stingy treatment of the Pea becomes apparent,
and that both as regards yield and quality. Where
the crop has received but little attention, the loss
can still be retrieved to some extent by applications
of liquid manure.

Harvesting Herbs.— Mint, Sage, Thyme, Mar-
joram and other herbs which are likely to be asked
for during the winter should on a dry day be cut,
bunched up and hung in an open shed to dry.

Seed Potatoes. — As these are lifted they shoiild
be spread out for a week or so to " green " prior
to being stored away in trays. A pit is possibly
the best place to store Potatoes for the table,
but it is the worst wherein to store them for seed.
Charles Comfort.
Broom/icld Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

August 30, 1913-]

THE GARDEN.

439

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— I'Ae Editoj intends to
mnke THE tJAKDEN helpjut to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object urUl make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications shovld be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper onltj'
and addressed to the EDITOR of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition in any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
qttery is sent, each sfiould he on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where p- ssible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not cfiaracteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publishkr.

ROSE GARDEN.

ROSE RAYON D'OR FOR BEDDING (E. B.)— Our
experience of this lovely Rose is that it makes a splendid
bedder, providing yood, healthy, British-jirown plants
are obtained. Its blooms are carried erect, and its colour
is well maintained. The very oldest blooms pale, but
not before they are ready for removal, and there are always
numerona buds to take their place. The glistening foliaize.
so wonderfully free from pests of all kinds, is a specially
aood trait of these pernetiana Roses. You would find
the variety named above, also Arthiu R. Goodwin, Cissie
Easlea and Louise Catherine Breslau real gems, Rosps
that would make a delightful bed of themselves, all having
a similar gro\vth and the same striking foliage. Yes ;
Silver Moon is a wichuraiana climber, but it could be
trained horizontally to form a low hedge. We should
suggest, however, for this purpose such a Rose a? Sim-
plicity. Silver Moon is quite free from mildew, as far
as our experience go^s.

ROSE EARL OF WARWICK BLIGHTED (M. G. D.).—
This Rose has a most peculiar habit of producing wood
such as you send. We do not believe it is caused by fungoid
disease, but is simply a peculiarity of this variety. In
our opinion the excessive use of artificial manures has
much to do with it, also in the production of blacK
spot and other diseases. We have noticed it very fre-
quently upon beds that have been heavily manured. We
have much faith in the formaldehyde remedy, if followed
strictly upon the lines advocated by Dr. Waddell in the
National Rose Society's Annual. We would, however,
advise you to replant the bushes, taking care to spray the
roots and wood when the work is done in November. See
that the soil is of a good loamy nature, and add some
lime if necessary. It may be your Rose-beds would benefit
greatly by liming in October. If they have been heavily
manured for some years, this is all the more necessary.
A writer some time ago gave as a remedy for black
spot an application of salt every two weeks. 4oz. of salt to
three gallons of water. You might try this on a few plants,
spraying them thoroughly. We think the scorched appear-
ance of the foliage may be caused by the formaldehyde.
All these sprayings are best done in the evenincr.

THE GREENHOUSE.

BEGONIAS GOING WRONG {W. B.).—\\'e find no
fungus or insect on the Regonias to which the damage
done can be attributed. We are inclined to think your
compost may be too rich and does not contain sufficient
sharp sand to make drainage efficient. Special care when
watering must be exercised, and no doubt the plants
will to some extent rctovt-r.

FUCHSIA LEAVES CURLED {R. S. il/.).— There is no
doubt that the iin^atisiaetory condition of your F\ichsias
is due to an excess of stimulants, for you have been far
too liberal in this respect. An application of Clay's
Fertilizer once a fortnight would be quite sufficient unless
it is given very weak indeed. It is quite probable that
the mulching of manure would be ample without using Clay's
Fertilizer at all. We certainly advise you to discon-
tinue the excessive use of stimulants ; but even then it
is possible that the plants mil take some time to recover,
as very likely the roots are in a poor way. The condition
of the leaves on the pot plant grown inside points to an
error in cultivation of some kind, but what that is we
cannot say. You did quite right in binding up the wounded
portion of the stem with clay.

SPIRiEAS AFTER FLOWERING (Hants).— Xftev the
Spiraeas had finished flowering, the old spikes should have
been cut off and every encouragement given to the plants
to make good growth. An occasional dose of liquid
manure would then have been of great service, as in this
way the plant is enabled to build up its strength and form
flower-buds for another season. By drying otf prematurely
the constitution of the plant is greatly weakened, and.
howevei treated now, you are not likely to have many
flowers next year. However, you may even now feed
the plants occasionally, and encourage growth till they
naturally go to rest in the autumn. The best time to
pot clumps of Spirtea for winter flowering is early in
November, but in a cool greenhouse you cannot expect
to have them in bloom by Christmas.

FRUIT GARDEN.

MANURING GOOSEBERRY BUSHES (Greystoke).—
Yes ; Gooseberry bushes are greatly improved by a liberal
application of rotten manure to the soil about their roots
in autumn. The crop is heavier and the fruit finer as a
result. You arc doing quite right in planting your Currant
trees in the open (never mind your neighbour in this case).
Dig a liberal dressing of rotten maniu-e into the soil
before planting. Your Black Currant trees are suffering
from what is commonly called the big bud ; the swelling
is caused by a small mite or insect. The best cure for it
is to pick otf the diseased buds and burn them and the
mites together. Your trees will go on bearing well, in
spite of the disease, for many years if tbey are well looked
after.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

HORSE-RADISH FOR SAUCE (FT. H. C.).— The early
autumn, when it is seen that the leaves of the Horse-
radish are maturing, would be the best time to lift and
store the roots for your purpose.

CARROT GRUB (Gardener). — The simplest and most
certain way is by burnins: the soil. In the autumn, in
dry weather, make a strong wood fire on the piece of
ground yon wish to grow Carrots on next year. After
it is well lighted, cover it over a foot thick with soil. Let
this soil become hot enough to kill all things which have
life in them. You will soon find out the necessary heat ;
then take off the soil, make up the fire anew, and rover
with soil as before. Burn all the soil wanted for the
Carrot crops a foot deep, and you will be rid of (ill grubs
and all scftds of weeds as wt-ll.

MISCELLANEOUS.

RENOVATING A LAWN (IlaD.—Yon can do a little good
to your tennis lawn by dressing it with good loam and bone-
meal m October : but it is doubtful whether the grass will
become really good for a number of years ; and although
it means a considerable amount of work, it would be very
much better and cheaper in the end to remove some of
the soil and make up with better material. It is always a
mistake to remove a considerable depth of surface soil and
sow seeds or plant upon ground which has been some
distance below the surface.

NAMES OF PLANTS. — f/. F., Somerset. — AiAuiia.

sericofera. Scud. — Erigeron canadensis. C. R., Gray-

shoit. — Sedura sexangulare variety. Rhagatt. — Digitalis

lutea and Thuja plicata. 2'. C. A. — Androsacc lanu-
ginosa. Burton. — Rose Lamarque. Enquirer. — The

coppery Rose is Jean Ducher. and the paler one G.
Nabonuand.

SOCIETIES.

SHREWSBURY SHOW.

The very first thing that every observant visitor must
have said to himself " or otherwise '* (to copy the phrase-
ology of a quaint notice affixed in the firework and acro-
batic part of the grounds) was : " This thirty-ninth show
is larger, better and more varied than ever — a regular
■ Che!sea ' in Sliropshire — even to the rock gardens."
Then, after a somewhat cursory " run round " (to use a
most inappropriate expression for the ordinary being
who entered with the crowd of subscribers at 11.30), he
would be aware of a quite exceptional display of Roses
and Sweet Peas ; of magnificent specimen flowering
plants of titanic proportions ; of mimicking Begonias
which nearly out-rosed the Rose and quite out-cameiliacd
the Camellia ; of Carnations and Gladioli galore ; of
the eternal " touch the button and I will do the rest "
sort of impossible airy and light decorated tables or table
decorations ; and of that visitor-flattering and irradicable
propexxsity of Shrewsbury which invariably thinks that
every pair of eyes belongsto a mind of more than encyclo-
paedic knowledge of genera, species and varieties, and
cannot understand that there are just a few visitors like
Sir Harry Veitch and Mr. E. A. Bowles and Mj. Farrer who
do not know quite everything when they see it ; and
last, but not least — to end this little digression — that
the society has been fortunate in securing in the person
of Mr. W. G. Brazier a secretary who will prove himself
to be a worthy follower of those veteran chiefs, Messrs.
Adnitt and Naunton, who have now retired after thirty-
eight years' service, and who were in the course of the
opening day so signally honoured by Horticulture. In
the competitive classes on the floral side of the show we
noticed that the usual prize-winners were still to the fore,
and that the different classes occupied much the same
positions ; so it will be convenient to deal with them as
far as possible as they were grouped in the various tents ;
but in place of our "more usual custom of dealing with
individual exhibits, we propose to concentrate on what
we consider their more prominent features.

LiRfiE Tent,
Here there were the usual displays of groups of stove
and greenhouse flowering and loliage plants, in which
Crotons, Orchids, Abutilons, Palms and Bamboos played
a leading part. There was a wealth of costly and varied
material introduced in the different exhibits, but on the
whole there was little originality or breaking away from
the stereotyped ideas of former years. In the open class
the names of Messrs. J. Cypher and Sons, Sir G. H. Kenrick
and air. W. R. Manning of Dudley were to the fore, while
in that confined to the county of Salop only, Mr. Bernard
Howson of Market Drayton, Mr. A. M. Barber of Wellington

and Mrs. F. Burd of Shrewsbury occupied the chief posi-
tions. We were much struck with Mr, Barber's arrange-
ment of simple green and white, with just a splash of
orange introduced here and there to give piquancy to
the whole. Although it was only awarded a second prize,
we tliougbt it compared very favourably with the more
conventional bizarre group of the winner.

Class 4, for a group of hardy plants and aquatics, pro-
duced one of the most striking features of the whole show
in the first-prize collection of Messrs. Gunn and Sons of
Olton. The design was excellent. It consisted of a small
central pool of water, with Water Lilies flanked with Ferns,
and a single group of blush Spiraea at one end ; then, in
a senai-circle round it, suggesting a garden path, a wide
edging of Grass to a slightly-raised border of perennials,
in which Hollyhocks, Campanula pyramidalis, Hyacinthus
candicans and Lythrum Salicaria Rose Queen were
features, but which cont-ained many other pleasing flowers,
among which might be mentioned Gladiolus Primrose
Queen.

The classes for large and small specimens are peculiarly
Shrewsbury's own, and we look on Messrs. Cypher's grand
plants as friends whom we would sadly miss if they did
not occupy their accustomed places at the show. Their
examples of Statice profusa, Erica aitoniana, Erica
e-wersiana, Ixora Duffii and Statice Gilbertii were veritable
triumphs of horticultural skill. In the 10-inch pot class,
AUamanda Williamsii and Ixora Regina were two charming
young plants that doubtless in time will be promoted to
the larger class.

In this large tent Messrs. Mair and Sons provided a
rich treat to Gladiolus lovers in their first-prize collection
of twenty-four varieties — Sphinx (amaranth), Sorcier
(lurid orange red). Mars (red). Snow Wreath (pure white)
and Alexander (pink) stood up bravely as the flring-line
of a fine, wjll-equipped squad. Here, too. were what we
advisedly called the mimicking Begonias of Messrs. Black-
more and Langdon of Bath and Messrs. Ware of Feltham.
for anything more like Roses and Camellias it is hard to
imagine. Undoubtedly the tuberous varieties have
reached a high standard of perfection ; such sorts as
Princess Victoria Louise (pink), Mrs. R. Caulfleld (shell
pink). Lady Dorrington (white), Rosi; Superbe (rose),
Marjorie Donald (waved warm flesh). Mrs. W. L. Ainslie
(waved yellow) and Mrs. Robert Morton (lemon and
bronze yellow) were some that caught our eye in the Batli
firm's exhibit. Begonia martiana grandiflora reminded
us of an old-fashioned Balsam in its general appearance,
and would be a welcome addition to the conservatory ;
it is very effective as a bedding plant. Messrs. Ware
had Prince John, Lord Hopetoun, Lady Cromer and
King George V. — all good things that we can recomnund.

Rose Tent.

The whole of the staging in the centre of one of the
tents was given up to Roses, which, in their first freshness,
wore exceedingly lovely. Great pillars and arches of the
best ramblers, with solid masses of one variety, were the
groundwork of almost all the competitive groups, while,
as filling up, there were smaller bunches, baskets or vases
of a bewildering number of appealing beauties.

Messrs. Gunn and Sons won the £10 prize and silver
Champion Bowl with a well-arranged and most attractive
collection, in which were good examples of Hugh Dickson,
George C. Waud. The Lyon Rose and Gottfried Keller,
the beautiful semi-double Briar, pale yellow centre, with
the outer half of the petals a pale warm pink.

Messrs. Hugh Dickson. Limited, staged some glorious
blooms. Among those that appealed to us were William
Cooper (real old rose), Charming (warm pink), Ulster Glow
(a large pale pink single), King George V. (deep dark rose)
and Muriel Dickson (light shade of cerise). The variety
Beaut6 de Lyon, so much beloved by our French friends,
and awarded by them such signal honours when they saw
it growing in their trial grounds at Bagatelle, was
finely shown by Messrs. W. and J. Brown, and many
were the expressions of wonder which we heard at its
wonderful shade of coppery orange. The third prize
in the champion class went to Mr. J. Mattock of New
Headington, Oxford, who had Duchess of Wellington
(yellow). Rayon d'Or and Irish Elegance well represented
in large clumps of fine blooms.

Sweet Pe.\s.

When Mr. Thomas Stevenson says that Mr. Thomas
Jones of Bryn. Pen-y-lan, Ruabon, never staged finer
blooms than those which were to be seen in No. 4 Tent,
readers will know that this exhibit of Sweet Peas was
something out of the common. Had his Mark's Tey been
a day older, the exhibit would have been well-nigh per-
fection. Wales may be worsted at football, but not at
Sweet Pea growing as long as the redoubtable " Tommy "
enters the lists. We congratulate him on what was one
of the best things of the show. Following in his wake
were Mr. J. Haycocks of Wrexham and Mr. G. H. Garnett
Orme of Skipton.

The smaller classes for twelves and sixes were well
filled, the first prize winners being Mr. Robinson of Kington
and Mr. J. Roberts of Gresford in their respective classes.

Carnations.
Bi;tween the competitive and non-competitive groups
the Carnations made a brave display. For a collection
arranged in a space 15 feet by 4 feet Mr. C. Wall of Bath
was placed first. We greatly admired his rosy pink Lady
Fuller and white picoteed Princess, not only on account
of their colour and form, but because tiiey have the true
Old Clove scent. Both are good winter-blooming varieties,
and not too large. We can highly recommend them.
Messrs. Young and Co. of Cheltenham. Mr. C. H. Herbert
of Birmingham and Messrs. A. R. Brown and Co. of
King's Norton were also prize-winners in the Carnation
classes.

440

THE GARDEN.

[August 30, 1913.

Rockeries.
These were a novelty for Shrewsbury. In spite of the
handsome prizes which were offered (£50, £30 and £20)
there were but three competitors. One of these had
placed a certain quantity of stone among the flowers.
Lilium auratum is certainly not the most appropriate
plant to introduce into such compositions, and we think
the judge was lenient to award the exhibit any prize
at all. Messrs. T. R. Hayes and Co. of Keswick were
placed first, and Mr. J. Wood of Boston Spa second.
The latter had a much weaker exhibit than we have been
in the habit of associating with iiia name. Bare patches
of oyster-shell-looking stones, a too symmetrical-shaped
pool, and a distinct sparseness of r'aiits in certain parts
where, we think, they ought to have been, were some of its
obvious defects. The prize-winners had a more pleasing
and better furnished exhibit.

Various.

Table decorations, bouquets and vases were present in
considerable numbers, but there was nothing of special
note in any of them. There were a few exhibits of summer-
flowering Chrysanthemums. That of Mr. G. Bowness
contained well-grown flowers, but was badly staged.
We might mention Mrs. W. Svdenham (rich brown-
maroon), Mrs. J. Field (golden brown) and Cynthia (pink)
as good.

The bunches of hardy and greenhouse cut flowers were
much as usual, but sadly wanted naming in many instances.
Dahlias were not very numerous, but there were some
beautiful Cactus varieties in Messrs. Bottamley and
Burton's collection, and some excellent Pieony-flowered
ones were in that of Messr.s. Keynes, Williams and Co.

Fruit.
There is no horticultural exhibition in the kingdom
at which exotic fruit grown under glass is so largely or
so well grown as at Shrewsbury, or at which it is more
attractively displayed for the enjoyment and appreciation
of the vast number who year after year visit this great
show. The quality of those fruits, and especially Grapes,
is more or less dependent on the conditions of weather
the season presents. The conditions this year, to a marked
extent, have left their mark on Muscats and white Grapes
generally, in so far that good colour and finish arc lacking.
This was made patent at this show, and it may also be
said that quality thro\lghoiit the fruit classes, with few
exceptions, compared unfavourably with the best seen at
Shrewsbury in some previous years.

Class 5S, champion decorated fruit tables : The estab-
lishment of this class, where fruit and flowers are com-
bined in the arrangement of the tables, was a happy
thought on tlie part of the committee of this show, and
has proved to be most popular. There is not a more
beautiful or attractive class in the show than this. The
conditions which govern it are as follows : The tables
are 10 feet by 4 feet 3 inches, and covered by a white
cloth. Thirty dishes of fruit are demanded in not less than
nine distinct kinds. Not more than fourteen bunches
of Grapes are allowed, and in not fewer than four varieties
(including black and white), and not more than four
varieties of any other kind of fruit, or more than two
dishes of any one variety. On this occasion there were
three exhibits in competition, the first prize (£25) going
to the Duke of Westminster (gardener, Mr. Barnes) ;
second (£20), Lady Henry Somerset (gardener, Mr.
MuUins) ; third (£17 10s.), the Earl of Harrington
(gardener, Mr. Goodacre).

The next fruit class in importance. Class 54, was that
for a collection of Grapes, twelve bunches in four or more
distinct varieties, but not more than four bunches of
any one variety. Point judging was insisted on in both of
these collections, and cards displayed showed the points
received by each dish exhibited, .^.s previously mentioned,
there was nothing remarkable in the high quality of the
Grapes to call for special notice, but evidently it was
quality and high finish rather than size which weighed
with the judges in deciding the awards. There were eight
competitors in this class, collectively a grand exhibition
of Grapes. The first prize (£20) went to the Duke of
Newcastle (gardener, Mr. Barker) ; second (£16), Lord
Rowallan (gardener, Mr. Dixon) ; third (£9), the Earl of
Harrington (gardener, Mr. Goodacre) ; fourth (£6), Lady
Henry Somerset (gardener, Mr. Mullins).

Class 55, collection of twelve dishes of fruit, twelve
distinct varieties, not more than two varieties of a kind.
Pine-apples excluded : First (£10), the Duke of Newcastle ;
second (£6), E. Bewley, Esq., Eathgar, Dublin (gardener,
Mr. Mcintosh).

Class 56, collection of nine dishes of fruit, nine distinct
varieties, not fewer than seven kinds and not more than
two varieties of a kind. Pine-apples excluded (open to
the county of Salop only) : First (£5), Captain Heywood-
Lonsdale ; second (£4), Colonel Mainwaring Jacson ;
third (£S), Mr. A. Heber Percy ; fourth (£2), Major-
General Sir Francis Lloyd.

Class 57, four bunches of Grapes, two bunches of black
and two bunches of white : First (£6), Captain Heywood-
Lonsdale ; second (£4), Colonel H. C. Legh ; third (£3),
E. Bewley, Esq., Dublin.

Class 58, two bunches of Black Hamburgh Grapes :
First, the Earl of Harrington ; second, I-ord Rowallan ;
third. Lady Henry Somerset.

Class 59, single bunch of Black Hamburgh Grapes :
First, Lord Rowallan ; second, H. St. Maur, Esq. : third,
the Duke of JVewcastle

Class 60, two bunches of black Grapes, Muscat variety :
First, the Earl of Harrington.

Class 61, two bunches of Madresfield Court Grapes ;
First, Colonel H. C. Legh : second, the Earl of Harrington ;
third, Mx. J. Brinton, Stourport.

Class 62, two bunches of Alicante Grapes : First, Lady
Henry Somerset ; second, Lord Joicey,

Class 63, any other black Grape : First, Lord Rowallan,
with Gros Maroc ; second. Lady Henry Somerset, with
the same variety.

Class 64, two bunches of white Muscats : First, Lord
Seaforth, Braham Castle ; second, the Duke of New-
castle ; third, Hugh Andrews, Esq., Winchcombe.

Class 65, two bunches of white Grapes, any other
variety : First, the Duke of Newcastle • second, Mrs.
F. AJderson; third, Sir Howell Davies, M.P., Stoke
Bishop.

Class 66, two bunches of black Hamburgh Grapes
(open to the county of Salop only) : First, Ladv Mary
Herbert, JIarket Drarton; second. Captain Heywood-
Lonsdale ; third, .Mrs. F. Alderson.

Class 67, Madresfield Court Grape (county of Salop
only) : First, Captain Hoywood-Lonsdale ; second.
Colonel Mainwaring Jacson.

Class 68, black Grape, any other variety (Salop only) :
First, Colonel Mainwaring Jacson ; second, Mrs. F.
Alderson.

Class 69, white Muscats (Salop only) : First, Captain
Heywood-Lonsdale ; second. Major R. A. Nowill,

Class 70 (Salop only) : First, Mrs. F. Alderson : second,
Captain Heywood-Lonsdale; third. Colonel M. Jacson.

SinnLE Dishes of Fruit.

Class 73, Peaches, a dish of eight : Here there was a
large entry, but no exhibit calling tor special remark except
the first-prize dish from the Duke of Westminster, the
variety being Bellegarde. This was exceptionally fine.
Second, Lady Henry Somerset.

Class 74, Nectarines, a dish of eight : First, Egerton
Leigh, Esq. ; second, the Duke of Newcastle ; third, the
Earl of Harrington.

Class 75, Apricots : First, A. S. Hughes, Esq. ; second,
R. A. Nowill, Esq. ; third, the Earl of Harrington.

Class 76, green-fleshed Melon : First, Lady Henry
Somerset: second. Miss Baird ; third, Egerton Leigh, Esq.

Class 77. scarlet-fleshed Melon : First, Colonel H. C.
Legh ; second. Colonel Mainwaring Jacson ; third. Miss
Baird.

Class 78, Melon, any other variety (Salop only) : First,
R. L. Kenyon Pradoc, Esq.

Vegetables.

Taking into consideration the great drought which
the country generally has passed through this summer,
vegetables made a bravo and. Indeed, in many instances
a wonderfully fine show. Competition was' imusuallv
keen in many of the classes, point judging in some classes
being demanded. This is a mistake, we think. It should
be lift optional for the judges to resort to this when
the competition is e.xtra close.

Class .S8 (prizes offered by Robert Sydenham, Limited,
Birmingham), collection of vegetables, nine distinct
kinds : First (£10), F. Barrett, Esq. ; second (£5), Lord
North ; third (£3), E. Deakin, Esq. ; fourth (£2), W. G.
Robinson, Esq. ; fifth (£1), J. H. Pugh, Esq.

Class 89 (prizes offered by Messrs. Sutton and Sons),
collection of nine distinct kinds : First (£8 8s.), Captain
Spenser Clay, M.P. ; second (£6 6s.), Lord North ;
third (£4 4s.), Hugh Andrews, Esq.

Class 90 (prizes offered by Messrs. James Carter and
Co., London), collection of six distinct varieties ; First
(£6), Mr. Barnett ; second (£4), Mr. E. Deakin ; third
(£3), Mr. H. Pugh ; fourth (£2), Mr. W. Robinson ;
fifth (30s.), Colonel Cornwallis-West.

Class 91 (prizes offered by Messrs. Webb and Sons,
Stourbridse), collection of nine distinct kinds : First
(£7), Mr. E. Winchester ; second (£5), Mr. Hugh Andrews ;
third (£3), Mr. H. Watson Smith ; fourth (£2), .Mr. A. T.
Ilainbow ; fifth (30s.), Messrs. Howell; sixth (£1), Mr.
W. E. Hyde.

Class 92 (prizes offered by Messrs. Clibran, Manchester),
collection of nine kinds of vegetables ; Fir.st (£8), the
Mapquis of Northampton ; second (£4), T. Sanderson,
Esq. ; third i£3), F. R. Dixon Nuttall, Esq. : fourth
(£2), Crawford Logan. Esq. ; fifth (£1), A. E. Humphrys
Owen, Esq.

Class 93 (prizes offered by Messrs. Dickson and Robinson,
Manchester), collection of nine distinct vegetables : First
(£8 8s.), the Marquis of Northampton ; second (£6 6s.),
Mr. T. Jones, Rnahon ; third (£4 4s.), F. R. Owen, Esq. ;
fourth (£3 33.), Captain H. Lonsdale ; fifth (30s.), Miss
Longworth ; sixth (£1), Captain H. Spenser Clay, M.P.

The Society's Open Classes.

Class 94, twelve distinct kinds : First (£7), the Hon.
Vicary Gibbs, Aldenham (gardener, Mr. Beckett), a superb
exhibit ; second (£5), Hugh Andrews, Esq. ; third (£3)
T. Sanderson, Esq.; fourth (£1), W. E. Hyde. Esq.

Class 95, collection of vegetables, nine distinct kinds
(Salop only) ; First (£3), Mr. P. Bibby ; second (£2),
Captain H. Lonsdale ; third (£1), Mr. A.'s. Heber Percy.

There were also classes for the following, the competi-
tion in nearly all being keen and the quality generally
excellent : Six dishes of Potatoes, six Tomatoes, brace
of Cucumbers, dish of Peas, French Beans, Runner Beans,
Cauliflowers, Celery, Parsnips, Carrots, Turnips and
Spring Onions.

Cottagers' Classes.

Many of these were provided and liberal prizes given.
They had a tent to themselves, and were not the least
interesting section of the show. The exhibits here formed
an excellent object-lesson of what cottagers can do in
the way of producing first-class quality vegetables from
their small plots or cottage gardens.

Non-compeiitive Exhibits.

The Shrewsbury committee are fortunate in being able
to secure year after year such valuable support from the

Beckett). —

among one

Large gold

trade. This year these exhibits proved more numerous,
important and beautiful than perhaps ever before. This
was the opinion of the gentleman who made the awards
in this section, and his estimate was endorsed by all we
came in contact with who spoke on the subject The
exhibition would be shorn of much of its beauty were
these grand exhibits absent.

Messrs. Sutton and Sons' collection was truly a rich
and wonderful one of all the specialities of vegetables
in season with which their name is associated, as well
as many fiowers and fruit, all magnificently grovvn and
most artistically arranged. Large gold medal.'

Messrs. J. Webb and Sons of Stourbridge. — This
collection, which consisted of many flowers, fruit and
vegetables, contained worthy specimens of this renowned
great Worcestershire firm. The way this collection
was disposed we thought was excellent and artistic
Large gold medal.

The Hon. Vicary Gibbs (gardener, Mr.
A magnificent collection of vegetables,
of the best Mr. Beckett has ever put up.
medal.

The King's Acre Nursery Company, Hereford. — Their
exhibit consisted of fruit trees in pots, mostly loaded
with fruit. Apples and Pears we have seldom, if ever
seen bearing heavier crops of well-developed fruit. As'
well as Apples and Pears, the collection consisted of
Grapes, Peaches, Nectarines, Plums Figs, and also
grand examples of gathered fruits in baskets. Large
gold medal.

Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea,
London. — Of their grand exhibit of superbly-grown plants
(and especially their wonderful specimen Pitcher Plants),
which filled a large recess in one of the principal tentsi
it may truly be said that seldom have lovers or growers
of plants had the privilege of seeing so rich a collection
as that presented. Large gold medal.

Messrs. Wallace and Co., Colchester. — This is the season
of blooming of that most charming and beautiful flower
the Montbretia. In this collection we were favoured
with a view of the many new and beautiful varieties
recently introduced. Star of the East being perhaps
the most beautiful. Other cut flowers included in this
collection were Delphiniums, Phloxes, Tritomas and
Lilies. Small gold medal.

Messrs. Pipers, Bayswater. — This firm had a most
interesting exhibit of garden border fiowers, artistically
arranged, for which a small gold medal was awarded.

Messrs. John Forbes, Hawick, Limited. — This ' firm
had an attractive exhibit of their specialities in the way
of Pcntstemons, Carnations, Phloxes, Gaillardias and Violas.
Small gold medal.

Messrs. Dicksons of Chester. — This firm set up one of
the handsomest exhibits of herbaceous border fiowers
and Roses we have seen for a long time. The arrangement
in grouping was excellent and the whole most pleasing.
Gold medal.

Messrs. Dobbic and Co., Edinburgh. — This exhibit
consisted chiefly of a large collection of Collarette Dahlias,
Sweet Peas and Roses. These were splendidly grown,
and the varieties of the choicest and best. The arrange-
ment and setting up of the plants were excellent, tlie
whole well deserving the large gold medal the firm
received.

Messrs. Dickson, Brown and Robinson. — This firm is
always strongly represented at Shrewsbury, and this
year they excelled themselves in the splendid collection
of fruit, vegetables and flowers they set up. Large gold
medal.

Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, Newtownards, showed
a large collection of beautifiU and choice varieties of
cut Roses, the climbing sorts arranged on arches with
a base of show varieties supporting them. Large gold
medal.

Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Upper Edmonton.—
This firm's superbly-grown and choice collection of Ferns
was much admired, and amid such masses of brilliant
colour it was quite a relief to the eye to turn to these for
rest. Silver-gilt medal.

Mr. Henry Eckford, Wem. — A large, well-grown
collection of Sweet Peas. Small gold medal.

Messrs. Hobbies, Limited, Dereham. — Among the
most attractive groups of flowers was the one from this
firm. It occupied a prominent position in one of the
large tents, and consisted of Collarette and other Dahlias,
also many of their beautiful weeping and climbing
wichuraiana Roses. Large gold medal.

The following, among others, had medals awarded
to their exhibits :

Messrs. Isaac House had Phloxes and alpine plants.
Small gold medal.

Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, had a collection of
Tree Ivies. These were grand, the finest we have ever
seen. Small gold medal.

Mr. H. N. Ellison, West Bromwich, had a select and
beautiful collection of well-grown greenhouse Ferns.
Silver medal.

Messrs. Ker and Sons, Liverpool, were awarded a silver
medal for a choice, well-grown collection of Crotons.

Mr. Jlaurice Prichard, Christchurch, Hants, received
a silver-gilt medal for a very choice and beautiful collection
of hardy herbaceous flowers.

Messrs. John Peed of Norwood showed a fine collection
of Caladiums. Silver-gilt medal.

Messrs. Bakers of Wolverhampton had a well designed,
arranged and planted rock and water garden. This flrni
obtained a large gold medal.

Mr. Amos Perry, Enfield, had an imposing and beautiful
exhibition of hardy fiowers and Water Lilies. This was
awarded a large gold medal.

Messrs. Barr and Sons, Taplow, Bucks, staged a large
and excellent collection of vegetables, admirably and
attractively set up. Silver-gilt medal.

c^cvp ■■«-■» iafe»-

GARDEN.

No. 2181.— Vol. LXXVII.

September 6, 1913.

GONTBNTS.

Notes of the Week 441
correspondence
Rose Irish E!o«;;anre
Best Roso^ for bods
A beautiful hardy

Lily

Erira darlryensis . .
Anemone juponica

Gracicuso . .
Fabianaitnbrieata. .
Lilium Brownii . .
Midland Daffodil

Society
The bestwjiitc? Uoso

for bedding. .
Fortlifomiir^ events..

XaTIONAL IHPT.OMA IN
HORTICULTURE

I'RuiT Garden
Seasonable notes on
Peaches

442
442

442

44,2

443
44:}
44:)

44 :J

443

ckeenhouse

S.^asonable notes on

Chrysanthemums

A eharminfi little

greenhouse plant

Flower (tAKDEN

hutch Crocuses . .

The Campanulas or

Bellflowers

444

444
444
44-»
44:>

l{i>iK AND Water Garden
Convolvulus mauri"
tanicus . . . . 446
Rose Garden

Work among indoor

Roses 44fi

Science in Relation to
Horticulture
■'Sleeping disease"
in Tomato plants 447
New and Rare

Plants 44S

Gardening for Beoinners
How to grow Violets
for winter flower-
ing 449

Cucumbcr.s in cool

frames 449

Gardening of the Week
l-'or Southern gar-
dens 450

For Northern L'ar-

dens 450

A cunning Hand
A MONO the
Branches . . . . 451
Arsenic Compounds

AS Insecticides .. 451
Answers to Corre-
spondents . . . . 452

ILIjUSTRATIONS.

Lilium Sargentix 442

New dessert Apple Maidstone Favourite 444

The nc\v Scabiosa caucasica magniflca 445

Convolvulus mauritanicus 446

A. fine variety of the Carpathian Hairbi-ll 447

New Gladiolus Mrs. Bromet 448

Clirysanthcraum Improved Northern Star 443

How to grow Violets for winter floweriup . . . . 449

EDITORIAL NOTICB8.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor iretcomes photographs, articles and note^,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he unit endeavour to return non-accepted
cnntribLiiotis,

As regards photographs, if pa'inifnt be desired, the Editor
auks that the price required for repniduction be plainly stated^
It must be disiinctlif understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright nn.ll be treated mth.

The Editor will not be responsible fur the return of artistii
or literary contributions which he may not be able to iise, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

O/Ttces : 20, Taristor\- Street, Coveni Garden, W.C

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Our Special Bulb Number.— Now that the
season for planting spring-flowering bulbs will
soon be with us, we propose to devote our next
issue mainly to articles on the subject. These
will be of more than usual interest, such well-known
authorities as the Rev. J. Jacob, Mr. E. A. Bowles,
Mr. H. J. Elwes and Mr. Duncan Pearson being
among the contributors. The number will be
considerably enlarged and fully illustrated, and
in addition will contain a coloured plate of five
new Narcissi. The price will be one penny, as
usual.

Nepela Mussini. — This now well-known member
of thi- Catmint family is largely employed as an
edging to several of the beds in the Old English
Garden at Battersea Park. The edgings are broad
and the Nepeta is admirably adapted for the
purpose, as the greyish masses of leafage and the
lavender blue spikes of flowers tend to give that
feeling of rcstfulness that one may well associate
with an Old English garden.

Preserving Everlasting Flowers.— Where such
plants as Helichrysums, Helipterums, Gna-
phaliums, .'^mmobiums. Static.es and other Ever-
lasting Flowers are grown, they will now need to
be watched if required for drying. They should
be cut before the flowers have become fully ex-
panded, tied in bunches and hung head downwards
in a dry place. Grasses and the well-known
Physalis (better known, perhaps, as Winter Cherries
or Bladder Herbs) may also be treated in the same
way.

A Beautiful Campanula. — One of the most

showy Campanulas flowering at the present time,
helping to extend the beauty of the rock garden,
is Campanula haylodgensis, a hybrid possibly
between C. carpatica and C. CTspitosa (C. pusilla).
raised some years ago at Haylodge, Edinburgh.
This dwarf-growing plant, from 4 inches to 5 inches
high, with bells of a lovely silvery blue, should
be in every rock garden. There is a double variety
of it, and although quite as showy as the type,
but the flowers being heavier, it does not stand
up so gracefully.

The Syrian or Tree Mallows. — Commencing
to flower during August, the numerous varieties
of Hibiscus syriacus (Althaa Frutex) continue
to produce a bright show of blooms throughout
September. Although by no means difficult to
grow successfully, the plants thrive best in a well-
drained loam, with, during a summer such as
that of 1913, a mulching of old manure in June
and several thorough soakings of water at intervals.
A few plants may worthily find a place in the
shrubbery of a small garden, for the Hibiscus is
quite a good town shrub. In cold districts they
should be planted on a warm south or south-west
border. The bushes, which are deciduous, vary
from 4 feet or 5 feet in height to upwards of 20 feet

or more. ,\mong the numerous varieties, which
comprise a fairly wide selection of colours, the
following are noteworthy : Cceleste, single, rich
blue ; Hamabo, single pink, dark centre ; paeoni-
florus, double rosy red ; alba, single white ;
bicolor hybrida, double white, maroon base to
petals ; limba plena, rich rosy red ; and variegata,
lilac flowers and variegated leaves.

National Rose Society. — The society's exhi-
bition of autumn Roses will be held in the Royal
Horticultural Hall, Vincent Square, Westminster,
on Thursday and Friday, September ir and 12.
The charges for admission will be as follow : On
the first day, from i p.m. to 4 p.m. 2S. 6d., from
4 p.m. to 6 p.m. IS , and from 6 p.m. tog p.m. 3d.
On the second day, throughout the day (10 a.m.
to 6 p.m.) the charge will be 6d.

A Valuable Autumn-Flowering Rock Plant.—

One of the most charming plants for the rock
garden or for growing on old walls is Erigeron '
mucronatus, a native of Mexico. It is very seldom
met with, and yet always admired when seen.
The dainty little Daisy-like flowers, which are
borne in great profusion, are of a reddish tint,
turning to pink till they are almost white by the
time they are open. It is easily grown, and when
once established seeds itself quite freely. If seeds
of it are placed as soon as ripe in crevices along
an old wall, it will quickly establish itself.

Antirrhinum Trials at Wisley.— Each year
trials of flowering plants are made in the Royal
Horticultural Society's Gardens at Wisley, bst
we very much doubt if any of the numerous trials
have created a more brilliant colour display than
the Antirrhinums, which are now at their very
best. Speaking generally, the seedlings, which
are under number, are very true to colour. Varie-
ties of dwarf habit predominate, although it is
pleasant to see that the taller-growing varieties,
such as we associate with old-world gardens,
are not left out. Orange, yellow and pink in
delightful art shades of colour are much in evi-
dence among the newer varieties ; but the result
of the trials is not yet made known.

Hardy Annuals for Spring Flowering. —

Often during the spring there is a gap or scarcity
of flowers between the bulbous flowering plants
and the summer flowers. It is at this period of
the year that annuals and biennials, sown at
the present time, light up the garden with
welcome masses of fresh and vivid colourings.
At one time it was not recognised to any great
extent to sow annuals at this time of the year,
and even now they are not used to the extent
they deserve. There are many quite suitable —
Cornflowers, Collinsias, Venus' Looking - glass,
Shirley Poppies, Limnanthes, Virginian Stocks,
Eschscholtzias, Larkspurs, Nemophila, Sweet Peas
and many others ; in fact, all hardy annuals are
worth trying, as they can be purchased for quite
a small outlay.

442

THE GARDEN.

[September 6, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The F.dilor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Rose Irish Elegance. — With reference to
" A. B. Essex's " question in your issue of last
week, " Is Rose Irish Elegance free-flowering ? "
I can assure him that it most certainly is so. I was
given a plant two or three years ago, and it has
done very well with me. Ever since May I have
had a continuance of blooms, and my plant would
quite equal his picture as to flowers. The plant
just now is covered with flowers and buds. The
Rose is particularly suited for
button-holes and for decoration in
the early opening stage, but, alas!
not after.— H. G. B., Forest Hill.

Best Roses for Beds. — I am

surprised to see " A. P." on
page 408 recommending Etoile
de France. I had a plant when
It first came out, and I have
had two blooms only that have
opened fairly well. I thought
it was acknowledged on all hands
that it was no good for ordinary
purposes. I should be delighted
if " A. P." can teach me how-
to make its "hard-as-lead" buds
open properly. Victor Hugo, I
think, is hardly suitable for beds,
as it is not a thoroughly good
doer. — C. Lf-MESLE Ad.\ms.

A Beautiful Hardy Lily.— Wo

think you may be interested in
the enclosed photograph of I. ilium
Sargentia?. It is one of the
noblest of Wilson's Chinese col-
lections, more vigorous than L.
regale (or myriophyllum as it is
better known in gardens), and
flowering two or three weeks later.
It seems to be one of the very
liardiest species, and has a con-
stitution comparable with that n(
L. Henryi. The flowers are milky
white, shaded outsi.de richly with
deep reddish brown and touched
with yellow at the centre. The
spike figured was 5 feet high and
carried ten perfect flowers. It is
an miusually beautiful specimen.
The photograph was taken on
.\ugust 20. — R. Wallace and Co.
Late-blooming Single Roses. —
The illustration and interesting
note re Irish Elegance, which
appeared on page 430, reminds
me that we now have quite a
number of single Roses that flower late in the
season as well as through the early summer
months. Those who say that Irish Elegance is
a poor doer and bloomer have not seen this grand
Rose in anything like its true form. It is almost
always in flower wherever I have met with it —
early, midseason, and until frost stops it here.
The same firm (Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons of
Newtownards) brought out a single white of
exceptional merit in Irish Beauty — immense
trusses of pure white with bright golden anthers.
Irish Harmony (saffron yellow) and Irish Glory
(silvery pink) are others of great beauty ; but
the two standing above all are Irish Elegance and

Irish Beauty. At the time of writing (August 29^
I have some fine standards of American Pillar and
Delight well in flower on the eve of September,
and likely to continue until the middle of that
month. Muriel Jamieson, Mrs. A. Kingsmill and
Mrs. W. T. Massey, three newer varieties, are
also good late in the season. Three semi-doubles
in Maharajah, Gottfried Keller and Simplicity
are to be depended upon for an autumnal display.
A. P., Uckfield.

Erica darleyensis. — With reference, to the note
signed " S. k." on page 430 of The Garden for
August 30 respecting the Heath commonly
called Erica mediterranea hybrida or sometimes E.

LILIU.M S.\RGENII.E, A BE.\UT1FUL NEW H.\RDY SPECIES FROM CHINA

hybrida, I may perhaps be allowed to state that
I have ventured to give it the above name in a
forthcoming work on hardy trees and shrubs
now in course of being printed. Apart from the
objection of making a hybrid a variety of one of
its parents, this Heath is really nearer to E. carnea
than to E. mediterranea. Erica hybrida is a garden
name that has long been used for the Cape Heath,
E. Massoni, and as there is already an E. smithiana,
the name darleyensis appears to be the most
appropriate one to connect this beautiful and
very valuable Heath with the firm to whom we
owe its existence — Messrs. Smith of Darley Dale. —
W. J. Bean,

A Pretty Combination. — A combination of
plants which is rather effective here and may
interest others is a bed of Hydrangea hortensis
with a margin of Funkia lanceolata. The Funkia
is extremely free-flowering, and the slender spikes
of lavender flowers blend well with the pink of
the Hydrangeas. The effect might be even better
perhaps were the Funkias planted among the
Hydrangeas as well as the edging, — E. G. Davison,
Westwicli Gardens, Norwich.

Rambler Roses and the Coming Winter.—
If you would Open your columns to a discussion
on the best way of saving our ramblers from being
cut off by frost, the lasting praise of many people-
both those who have large gardens
and others who can grow but two
or three of these lovely Roses —
would be due to you. Early last
November there was the severest
frost of the winter on two consecu-
tive nights. Result : All the wichu-
raiana ramblers — Dorothy Perkins,
Lady Gay, I.euchtstem, Trier, Crim-
son Rambler, Hiawatha. Gardenia
and other favourites — were killed
down to the ground. I believe the
same thing happened all over Scot-
land and the North of England, ex-
cept perhaps in a few warm positions
on the West Coast. Thus the
space the ramblers used to cover
was left bare. The growth made
during this, happily, warm sum-
mer can only fill parts of the
vacant places and afford but a
few samples of the blooms that
should have beautified them.
This is not the first time the
ramblers have been cut down by
frost. In the winter of 1910— 11
a similar calamity occurred. Since
then I have protected several pot
ramblers by covering them with
Bracken, but these suffered last
November equally with the unpro-
tected ones. Possibly there was nol
enough Bracken. The most wideh-
accepted theory seems to be that the
frosts last November were so in-
jurious because they came before
the sap had retreated to the roots.
It chanced that a comparatively
large plant of a rambler had to be
moved at the end of October, and it
was not injured by those frosts. It
is suggested that the shock of re-
moval had sent the sap back ; hence
the immunity to frost. But in
1910-11 the frosts were not specially
early. The questions that might be
discussed are such as these : Would
it answer to lift all the Rambler Roses at the begin-
ning of winter ? Has this ever been tried on a large
scale as a preventive of injury by frost ? How could
large plants growing on pergola, trellis, &c., be
lifted ? Would it do to simply expose their roots
for a day or two ? Is the common practice of
lifting Broccoli intended to stand the winter
really analogous ? If, on the other hand, some
covering would be a more effectual protection,
what would be the best covering and how should
it be applied ? Is there any other and better
remedy ? Are there any of these ramblers
that would stand 20° to 25° of frost ? —
Amateur.

September 6, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

443

Anemone japonica Gracieuse. — Fur the infor-
mation of your correspondent " C. C," page 418,
issue August 23, I may mention that this
desirable variety of the Japanese Anemone
emanated from Nancy, it being distributed by
MM. Lemoine et Fils in the spring of 1908. Another
variety sent out at the same time was Galathfe. —
H. P.'

Fabiana imbricata. — The note regarding Fabian;:
imbricata on page 407 is one which is quite called
for, as this shrub is not nearly well enough known.
As stated. " it succeeds as a bush in the warmer
counties, but must be planted against a wall
elsewhere," In common with quite a number
of plants from Peru and Chili, it does very well
along the West of Scotland, where I know of
several good plants, mostly against walls. There
it pulled safely through the past winter — one of
the most disastrous to shrubs for many years
It grows and fjowers well against a wall in Edin-
burgh also, but the West of Scotland is evidently
better suited to it than the East. — S. Arnott.

Liliiun Brownii. — This beautiful trumpet-shaped
Lily, so well illustrated in The Garden for
August 16, is seen to better advantage when in
the open ground than it is if grown under glass
for greenhouse or conservatory decoration. A very
prominent feature is the way in which the exterior
of the blooms and the imopened buds are tinged
with chocolate. This is far more pronounced
when the plants are growing outside, fully exposed
to light and air, than if they are brought on under
glass. For this reason, when the flowers are needed
for greenhouse decoration, a good plan is to grow
them outside till the blossoms are on the point
of expanding, and then to take them under glass.
This has its advantages in more ways than one,
for in a shaded structure the flowers last longer
than they do in full sunshine, while out of doors,
if the weather is showery, the spotless interior
of the blooms is often sullied by the coloured
pollen, which does not happen with glass protection.
One feature concerning Lilium Brownii is alwaj-s
a puzzle to me. We are told by the various
authorities that it is a native of China, which it
may be, for closely- allied kinds come from that
region ; but I have never seen Lilium Bro\vnii
as grown in gardens and nurseries tor so many
years among any Chinese importations, though very
large numbers have come under my notice. This
Lily as grown by the Dutch has not shown the
least variation during almost the half a century
that I have been acquainted with it. Certainly,
appearances point to it being a Chinese kmd, but
the fact remains that it is difierent from any recent
importations. — H. P.

Midland Daffodil Society. — As the Royal

Horticultural Society have responded to so large
an extent to the wants of those who advocated a
National Daffodil Society, and, consequently,
the foimdation of such a society is likely to be
postponed sine die, may I urge the claims of the
Midland Daffodil Society to the support ot all
lovers of Daffodils and the advantages that such
membership confers ? First, the society (owing
greatly to the energ\' of the late Mr. Robert Syden-
ham), after struggling in its early days, now holds
the premier position among Daffodil societies,
and its shows have done very much to encourage
and popularise the love of the Daffodil, a knowledge
of what the capabilities of the flower are. Conse-
quently, I think a debt of gratitude is due from all
lovers of the flower, and especially from those who
are hybridisers, as its shows have been the means
of more new seedlings being shown and seen than

has any other society's show. Secondly, member-
ship means (i) joining the leading club of the
Daffodil world and bringing a member uito touch
with those who are the busiest workers among
the Daffodils; and (2) the right to attend and
exhibit at the shows, which are acknowledged
to be the pleasantest gatherings of the kind, and
where the leaders in the cult are always to be found
with the latest up-to-date flowers. The subscrip-
tion varies from 5s. to £3 2s., and the number of
tickets to which members are entitled varies
accordingly. With a larger membership and more
funds at command, more could be done by the
committee on the lines of the suggestions by those
in favour of a National Society. I would ask
all lovers of the Daffodil who are not already
members to write tiow to Mr. Herbert Smith,
Secretary of the Midland Daffodil Society, Tenby
Street, Birmingham, intimating their willingness
ti-> j'tin the society. — C. Lemesle .Adams.

The Best Wliite Rose for Bedding.— A friend
wants me to give her the name of the best white
Rose for bedding. It is wanted for a bed (one ot
seven in a smiken Rose garden, each taking
about twenty-five plants), and is to replace Fran
Karl Druschki, which is being discarded, largely
owing to its too vigorous growth and ungainly
habit, being out of harmony with the occupants
of the other six beds. The question, although
apparently a simple one to answer, is really not
so. Cream and flesh tints are not desired, as they
are represented already, and that rules out such
Roses as Pharisaer, Ethel Malcolm, La Tosca,
Mrs. David McKee and .Antoine Rivoire, even if
the habit of the first three named is not too vigorous.
Fortunately, Teas do exceptionally well in her
soil, and I have suggested Molly Sharman Crawford
or Mrs. Herbert Stevens ; they are certainly
" possibles." Mrs. H. Hawksworth and British
Queen would have been considered, but their price
forbids. Lady Quartus Ewart, Marjorie Edelstein
and .\mateur Teyssier also occurcd to me, but the
mere mention of their names in coimection with
the best white Rose is sufficient to rule them out.
There is White Killamey, and also Simplicity and
Irish Beauty ; but the last two are not desired,
and White Killamey is too subject to mildew.
I can think of nothing else so good as the two Teas
Molly Sharman Crawford and Mrs. Herbert Stevens,
but my friend seems to think there should be some-
thing better than either. The first is hardly free
enough, and the second, which is preferred, does
not hold its flowers erect. Can any of your
numerous readers help her and me out of the
difficulty, or can you, Mr. Editor, suggest some-
thing better than either ? Rugosas, Chinas and
Polyanthas are barred. Perhaps " Danecroft "
will give us the benefit of his wide experience. A
parson friend to whom 1 put the query suggested
Sunburst I But then he was joking. — Herbert

E. MOLYNEUX.

NATIONAL DIPLOMA IN
HORTICULTURE.

c

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

September 8. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Meeting. National Chrysan-
themum Society's Floral Committee Meeting.

September 9. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Meeting and Exhibition. National Dahlia Society's
Show at the Crystal Palace (two days).
. September 10. — Royal Caledonian Horticul-
tural Society's Show (two days).

September 11. — National Rose Society's Autumn
Show at the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall (two
days). Messrs. Dickson and Robinson's Vegetable
Show at the Manchester Coal Exchange (two days).
Paisley Horticultural Society's Show (two days).

year the Council of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society approached the Board
of Agriculture with the view to the
founding of a Diploma of Horticulture,
a proposal that the Board agreed to,
and Government authority was given
for the title " National " to be used. Those who
are keenly interested in horticulture felt that this
was a step, even though a small one, in the right
direction, and awaited with interest the proposals
for the examinations that should enable the
Council to say who was a fit person to hold
such a diploma. As stated in our last issue, these
particulars have now been issued, and after
carefully perusing them we do not think they will
be received with open arms by the gardening
community.

It seems to us that the conditions laid down will
preclude most of the best gardeners of to-day from
obtaining the diploma, even if they desired to do
so. Under paragraph 4, b, candidates are to give
some documentary evidence of the sufficiency of
their previous general education ; and in the follow-
ing paragraph we are told that the certificate of
the College of Preceptors, the Oxford and Cam-
bridge local examination boards, matriculation at
any British University, or any similar certificate
which may from time to time be approved by the
Coimcil of the society will be accepted as evidence.
Failing such documentary evidence, candidates
must submit themselves to (and pass) a qualifying
test established by the society in the subjects
mentioned in Syllabus i. Two paragraphs in this
syllabus state that the candidate must show an
acquaintance with arithmetic up to and including
decimals and elementary mensuration, and have a
general elementary knowledge of geography, such
as the relative positions of the principal countries
of the world, with some knowledge of their climates
and of the causes which determine climate
Knowledge of such subjects is, of course, useful in
a way ; but we wonder how many of our best
gardeners, florists, fruit-growers and seedsmen,
or members of the society's own committees, could
pass such a qualifying test.

However, once it is passed, the candidate gets
down to more practical topics, and has to pass a
preliminary examination, the syllabus for which
appears to have been well thought out. We are
glad to see that it is to be mainly of a practical
character, as, in our opinion, written answers to
questions are no real test of a person's abilities in
gardening. Having passed this preliminary
examination, which is essential, the candidate is
not entitled to a diploma, but must sit for a final
examination, particulars of which are not given.
The entrance fees, which are payable in advance,
are £1 for the preliminary examination and £3
for the final examination. These, we think, are
much too high, and will prevent many for whom
the examinations are professedly to be held from
entering. We are fully alive to the fact that the
holding of such examinations will entail consider-
able expense ; but surely a wealthy body such
as the Royal Horticultural Society, which exists for
the advancement of horticulture, can arrange
better terms than these for yoimg gardeners. To
get the best practical men to sit for the diploma it
will, we feel certain, be necessary to modify the
qualifying test and to reduce the examination
fees.

444

IHE GARDEN.

[September 6, 1913.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON PEACHES.

DURING the month of September
k amateur cultivators will have many
I fruits ripening on open walls and
" in unheated houses. If there are
more fruits than can be used at
home, and the surplus ones are sent
to market or to friends at a distance, careful
gathering and packing are very essential to
success. It is always best to gather the fruits
for such purposes before they are quite ripe. When
gathering, place two fingers and the thumb of one
hand at the base of the fruit and thus remove it
from the branch. Never touch the sides of the
fruits. If they are pressed and are, at the time
even, unripe, the flesh will be badly discoloured
when ripened.

Wooden boxes, 3 inches deep, made to hold six,
twelve or twenty-four fruits, are the best in which to
pack Peaches. Half-inch wood is strong enough.
Wood-wool or cotton-wool, unbleached, may be

— where overcrowding occurs — from which the
fruits have been removed must be cut out now.
Watering. — It is a tact that many Peach trees
are sadly neglected after the fruit has been gathered.
If the soil is allowed to get dust dry, the buds fall
off wholesale in spring when the sap once more
becomes very active. Thoroughly soak the border
soil several times this autumn before it becomes
too dry, and open the ventilators and doors to
admit plenty of air. G. G.

THE GREENHOUSE.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON CHRY-
SANTHEMUMS.

PLANTS growing in the flower garden
will now be well studded with buds,
and if fine blooms are preferred to
sprays of small flowers, no time should
be lost in carrying out the work of
disbudding the plants. Some varie-
ties are more suitable for disbudding than others,
and certainly many sorts look better bearing

rather small pots, and neatly staked. If some
plants of the same variety are placed in
positions facing the north, or on the north
and east sides of walls, the season of flowering
of that variety will be prolonged by about ten
days.

How to Retard Exhibition Blooms.— Nearly

all inexperienced cultivators defer the attempt
to retard the early blooms until the latter are
more than half developed. At that stage it is
quite possible to keep them back a week without
any loss of colour or freshness of floret ; but the
best time to retard the forward varieties is before
the colour of the flower petals can be seen. By
placing the plants in open but cool positions until 1
housing-time comes, the progress of the buds
will be considerably arrested ; indeed, to the extent
of a fortnight. Then, if the blooms are kept cool
when almost fully developed, they may be retarded
nearly another week, making about eighteen days
altogether. There is another advantage in retard-
ing early varieties soon after the buds have been
" taken," as the plants are kept in the open air
and light reaches every part from bud to base,
and this is conducive to a healthy
condition of the leaves. Con-
tinue the judicious feeding of all
varieties of plants in pots, especially
those that are intended for exhibi-
tion in November,

Plants Trained on Walls.— I have

seen old walls beautifully furnished
with tall, medium and dwarf-growing
varieties, neatly arranged. Some of
the early November flowering varie-
ties do very well in the shelter
afforded by the walls. At the present
time all main branches should be
tied in and all surplus side shoots
pinched out. The tops of the stems
must be left to depend gracefully
from the wall ; then the clusters
cjf fiowers will show to great
advantage. Avon.

NEW DESSERT APPLE MAIDSTONE FAVOURITE. (Five-sixths natural she.) (See page 448.)

used, but where plenty of ordinary ground moss
can be obtained, rake it up with an iron-toothed
rake, dry it under a glass light, then beat out the
dust with the aid of a stick and use it for packing
purposes. I have packed many thousands of
Peaches in it, and never had one damaged. First,
put a thin layer of the moss in the bottom of the
box, then place the fruits, each one wrapped in
white tissue paper, on the moss with just sufficient
space between them to allow of the fingers being
inserted. Fill up all such space with moss, and
lay enough on the top to permit the lid to be put
on, gently pressing down the moss. A number of
these boxes, all of similar size, of course, may be
tied together securely with strong cord, and they
will withstand a railway journey from one end of
the country to the other. Melons, Nectarines and
choice Pears may all be packed in moss, as the
latter is soft, and does not contaminate the fruit
with any scent.

Summer Pruning of the Trees. — No time

should be lost in completing the work of summer
pruning. The earlier pruning would admit more
air and light to the ripening fruits, and the branches

sprays of blossoms than single blooms on stiff
stems. Earwigs do a lot of harm to the blooms
in some seasons. The pests find shelter among
the faded, curled leaves near the base of the plant,
and the wise cultivator will be careful to remove
all such leaves, and with them many earwigs, too.
Afterwards, if the buds and opening flowers are
examined at nine o'clock each evening with the
aid of a lantern, the earwigs left may be greatly
lessened and very little harm to the fully-expanded
blooms will occur,

Manure-Water in a diluted condition must
be freely given to the plants in borders at this
season. However good the soil may be, the
plants will have robbed it of a great deal of
nourishment, and the applications of manure-
water are really essential to the full development
of the blooms and the deep, healthy colour of
Ijic leaves.

Early-Flowering Varieties in Pots. — These

are very useful to the amateur cultivator who
possesses no glass houses in which later-flowering
sorts should be accommodated. The early
ones must be well fed, especially if grown in

A CHARMING LITTLE
GREENHOUSE CLIMBER.

I.M Moiiettia bicolor we have a
delightful climbing plant for a small
structure, as though free, it is by
no means a strong grower, while the foliage is
neat and the bright, tubular-shaped blossoms, in
colour red and yellow, are borne throughout the
greater part of the year. It is a native of South
America, where several other species occur ; but
though some have at different times been intro-
duced, this is the only one that can be generally
obtained from nurseries, and as far as I know it
is the best of them all. It is also known as M.
inflata and M. rubro-lutea. Apart from its beauty
as a greenhouse climber, little examples grown ui
pots and trained around a few sticks form a very
pleasing feature in that structure Larger speci-
mens treated in the same way are sometimes
put oui of doors during the summer in the mixed
beds of flowering subjects which are now so often
seen. Under these conditions they flower con-
tinuously, and fully exposed to sun and air the
colour of the blossoms is of the richest. Before
the craze for size became so universal, a spray of
this Manettia was often used for the decoration
of the button-hole. It can be readily struck (rora
cuttings in the spring, and will thrive in ordinary
potting compost. H. P.

September 6. iC)i3]

THE GARDEN.

445

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

1

DUTCH CROCUSES.

">IlKOL'GH ihr kindness nf two large
Putch tirms, who eacli of tliem made
me a present of a collection of their
now varieties, together with a sprinlding
of the best of some of the older ones,
I iiad the excitement this last spring
of having a small Crocus trial in my own garden.
1 must go off at a tangent here, just for two or
three lines, to advocate such collection-growing
as being a most interesting and instructive by-
product of the gardening spirit, whenever and
wherever circumstances and money allow it tii be
carried out. It is an exploration
into an unknown land, and in a
mild way gives us the same sort
of expectant wonder as variety
after variety unfolds its blooms
to our critical eyes. There are
lots of things that can be utilised
for this purpose — annuals, Sweet
Peas, Zonal Pelargoniums, Tulips
(both early and late). Daffodils,
Hyacinths, Crocuses, Montbretias,
and, in fact, almost anything at
wliich seedling raisers and selectors
ha\c been at work. One of my
" jciys," then, this last spring was
watching this collection of Crocuses.
It was my Mecca for three weeks.
1 saw it in sunshine and in rain.
I looked at it at close quarters
and at a distance. I wanted to
know which were the best among
the whites, the purples, the mauves
and the striped. For this purpose
1 took no account of the dates of
opening, nor if the colours matched.
I went for those which in them-
selves appealed to me most. Here
s a richauffe of the notes I then
made. There were numerous
whites, including Kathleen Parlow,
which the floral committee of the
Royal Horticultural Society some-
what unaccountably gave an award
of merit to in the middle of lasl
Fehruary, when it must have been
grown under glass. It is a mag-
nificent variety, but, " in my
foolish opinion," not to be com-
pared to White Lady, whose bril-
liant anthers out-saffroned any
that I have ever seen, both in
colour and in size. The individual
flowers were large, of exquisite
shape, of good substance, and
freely produced. A real lady in
every way. All these large
"blowers" are naturally fair-weather sorts.
As, however, during part of the trial time we
had wet and stormy weather, I found myself very
frequently " coming back to " May, a rather dwarf
variety with small, ideally-formed, cup-shaped
flowers. It has been a great favourite of mine
for some time, and if there was not such a rage for
size as size^ it w'ould probably be the white of
commerce.

Among the purples the choice w'as very large.
I find I put the well-known piurpurea grandiflora
equal first with Caesar. This last is a much redder
purple than the old variety. Both are very line

and large flowers, and, except for the difference
in the shade of colour, it is almost " six of one
and half-a-dozen of the other."

Two other purples that I have down are Hero,
a late variety with rich, deep purple, shiny-looking
flowers, and Black Knight, the darkest of all in
the trials, and, I should imagine, one of the darkest
of all Crocuses. It has a fine gloss on the petals,
like shirt fronts and collars got up with a smoothing-
iron.

The mauves are a small class. The best was
Dorothea, a very pleasing shade of lavender,
quite distinct from all the others in my collection.
It is a long, not particularly large flower, and the
corm is small. I have always found it to be one
of the best Crocuses to erow

Edina was my " medium " ; it is a huge flower
with mauve stripes on a white ground, which are
so arranged that the margins of the petals are left
without any colouring, giving them a very distinct
white edge. Pallas is another very fine large
variety, with the three exterior segments almost
white and with remarkably showy orange anthers.
As the best example of the third I placed Fantasy.
It was practically " Hobson's choice." I cannot
say I particularly cared for the combination. My
notes say : Light and dark purple stripes, edges
white, inside of petals pale purple. It was very
distinct, undoubtedly, but somehow it was the
least pleasing of all my selections.

To sum up, my Crocus trials gave me an immense
pots or bowls. I amount of pleasure and mild excitement at a

time when I had nothing else in
flower outside.

The different kinds were arranged
in solid little blocks of four rows,
I each witli six corms in a row.
Each blocic was about nine inches
from its neighbour, and the whole
was arranged in two rows on a
long bed in an open place in the
garden. Joseph Jacob.

OR

THE NEW SCABIOSA CAUCASICA M.\GNIFICA.
BLUE. (See page 4+8.)

For this purpose I can strongly recommend it,
also May. Second to Dorothea I placed Beauty
or Margot — for both names mean the same variety.
This is a large Colchicum-looking bloom, with the
exterior of the petals a different tone from their
interior ; the list says, outside pale lilac, inside
blue. I described it as lavender and heliotrope.
Anyhow, it is a grand plant.

The last division is the " striped." The choice
was considerable. In the end I decided to pick
the best pale, the best medium, and the best dark.
Adeline Patti was the one I selected for the first,
although I find the list describes it as a white.

THE CAMPANULAS
BELLFLOWERS.

(Continued jyom page 434.)
C. alpina.— Rather a difficult
and short-lived species with some,
this is a handsome plant with a
spike six inches high, bearing
in July large, blue, fringed bells
on long footstalks. It makes a
rosette of shining leaves. Divi-
sion is almost impracticable. It
is a limestone plant for a sunny
place in light soil. It should not
be confounded with a pseudo
alpina, a handsome variety of
C. rotuudifolia.

C. Aucheri.— This is a rather
new plant of much beauty, re-
sembling C. tridentata in all its
parts, but is more vigorous. It
has handsome violet flowers in
June and July, and should have
the moraine in sun.

C. azurea.— See C. rhomboidalis.
C. balchiniana. — A very beauti-
ful plant of the isophylla class, with
variegated leaves and soft pale blue
flowers in June and July. It is
not very hardy, and is a favourite
basket plant for the conservatory or
window. It can be grown on a wall
in the open or in a sunny rockery,
but shonldhaveasheet of glass over
it in winter. Division or cuttings.
.A. well-kiio\vn and very beautiful
plant not always easy to grow. It is about a foot
high, and has in May and Jmie large, pale blue,
drooping flowers on. erect stems dropping over
at the top. The beauty of the flower is enhanced
by the white hairs in the mouths of the blooms.
Apt to die after flowering, and should be in dry,
well-drained soil or the moraine. Raise from
seeds. Sun or shade. The white variety alba is
very fine.

C. Barrelieri.— See C. fragiJis.
C. Baiimgartenii. — This seems only a form of
C. rotuuchfolia.

COLOUR, LAVENDER

C. barbata.-

446

THE GARDEN.

[September 6, 1913.

C. bavarica. — The name ot this plant is a little
doubtful, and the one sent for it is known as
tlie Bavarian variety of C. portenschlagiana,
which see.

C. beauverdiana. — This is a lovely but rare
plant, about nine inches high, and giving in June
a host of delightfully shaped and coloured starry
flowers. A rather dry rockery or the moraine
seems to suit this Caucasian species.

C. bellidifolia, — A handsome Bellflower, about

six inches high, with large, funnel-shaped bells,

one on the top of each stem, in July. It comes

from the Caucasus, and is described in the " Dic-
tionary of Gardening " as C. Adami. A rather

dry soil in loam, peat and grit, or the moraine.
C. caespitosa. — For all garden

purposes C. csespitosa and its

forms, with C. pumila and C.

pusilla, may be treated as one

species. The " Index Kewensis "

and the " Kew Hand List " do not

seem in entire agreement about

this. A study of the forms shows

that there is little difference

between them, although C. caespi-
tosa is certainly smaller and closer

in its habit. The white one, known

as C. pumila or C. pusilla alba in

gardens, will serve as descriptive of

all. The type is blue. Then there

is a beautiful light blue one called

pallida, and Miss Willmott is a

charming pale or silvery blue one.

C. tyrolensis is practically a C.

cajspitosa, and one called cochleari-

folia is of taller but close growth,

and with deep blue flowers. These

are easily-cultivated plants almost

anywhere, and look well in a wall,

moraine, or the crevices of a paved

path or rockwork. Easily raised by

division or from seeds. Finer in

semi-shade than in sun. They

flower in June and July.

C. carnica. — A species not much

grown, but after the style of C.

rotundifolia, with narrow flowers,

almost tube-like, of a violet purple

and about nine inches or ten

inches high. Ordinary rock garden

soil. June and July.
C. carpatica. — One of the best-

knowrn and most valuable of all

rock garden or border Campanulas

Some include with this the lovely
C. turbinata, but there is room
for a difference of opinion about

this, as the true turbinata has

more pubescent leaves and rarely
more than one flower at the top
of each stem. Some also place C.
pelviformis with C. carpatica. There
are many varieties besides the type, which is about
a foot high, and has open flowers of a pleasing
blue. There are such forms as pallida, light blue ;
alba, white ; Riverslea and Isabel, handsome flat,
blue varieties ; White Star, large white ; China
Cup, pale blue ; Little Gem, dwarf blue ; Dirk-
soni, white ; and others, besides C. turbinata
and a white variety of the same nature. All
are of easy culture in sun or shade, and are among
the latest of the dwarf Bellflowers, coming in
July. S. Arnott.

{To be continued.)

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

CONVOLVULUS MAURITANICUS.

This is often miscalled the Blue Convolvulus, but it
is no bluer than some Campanulas and many other
mauve and lilac plants that are frequently spoken
of as blue. Purplish blue or, better still, bluish
purple woifld more nearly describe the colour.
But, any way, it is a lovely plant for a warm, well-
drained bank, where it will cover a large space
with its constant succession of flowers from June
till the frosts come. In some districts it is hard
to keep through the winter, but I have had it
outside here for many years, fifteen at least, and
find that if I get its roots partly under a stone

and whiter. So far its blossoms have been smaller
than my older form, but I am hoping that may be
altered when it gets more fully established.
Waltham Cross. E. A. Bowles.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

CONVOLVULUS MAURITANICUS, A USEI'UL PLANT
BANK OR ROCK GARDEN.

and leave its own dead leaves and stems on until
it begins to shoot from the base in spring, it can
be relied upon to rapidly reclothe the space
allotted to it. The blossoms open widely in bright
sunshine, and are very freely produced. The
illustration shows a year old plant in early July,
which will cover twice the space before the season
ends. It is a native of Northern Africa, and there-
fore rejoices in hot weather. It is easily propagated
by cuttings, but I do not remember ever finding
good seed on my plants. I have a deeper-coloured
variety here now, with the eye rather more distinct

WORK AMONG INDOOR ROSES.

ALTHOUGH we are still in the midst of
Roses among the open-air plants, it
is a very important time with us
i now among our Roses under glass.
^ With the majority of pot Roses
outside, there is much to do among
those plants that are turned out into borders or are
remaining in large tubs or pots. I
have frequently emphasised the
importance of a clean commence-
ment in all phases of Rose culture,
and it is more than ever advisable
when dealing with these plants
under glass. Those plants that
have had to stay under cover
are likely to be carrying a number
of semi-ripened leaves that would
have fallen in the open by the
influence of wind and rain. It
often happens that under glass such
foliage is simply infested with red
spider and thrips. Unless this is
guarded against, it stands to reason
we are simply harbouring an enor-
mous number of enemies tnat will
play havoc with future growth. I
would make a practice of trrquently
collecting these leaves as they fall
and burning them. Do not wait
for one final cleai'ing up only. The
matured leaves that are affected
may as well be cut off and burnt
also. They are not of much more
service upon the plant, and their
absence will facilitate the more
complete cleansing of wall, roof,
and Rose wood, which I, am strongly
in favour of at this time of thi;
year, when our houses are the
nearest to being empty.

' I have often met with mealy
bug upon Roses, and scale is
quite common. Lessen your
foliage as much as the condi-
tion of the plants will allow, also
the wood ; and much may often
be cut away now, so that our
Roses may be fairly ripened if
they are to serve as early forcers.
Where possible, and in all cases
where many insects abomid, I
would remove the growth from
the supports and thoroughly white-
wash or otherwise cleanse behind
all Rose growth. Fairly strong measures may
be used upon partly-matured wood, and such an
opportunity as the present seldom occurs. Look
over the borders closely and see that they are
uniform. A little well-rotted manure may be
forked in, or a dressing of some approved artificial
food given. But I would not do much of the
latter while Roses are in a dormant state of growth.
In fact, clean up and get well prepared for the
housing and starting of those plants intended for
midwinter flowering, which will soon have tc
come under cover. A. P.

FOR A SUNNY

September 6, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

447

SCIENCE IN RELATION TO
HORTICULTURE.

"SLEEPING DISEASE" IN TOMATO
PLANTS.

THE Tomato disease commonly known
as the " sleeping disease " is annually
responsible for a good deal of dis-
appointment and loss to market-
gardeners. As far as England is
concerned, it is a disease of compara-
tively recent introduction, having first made its
appearance in Guernsey, after which it became
troublesome in the Isle of Wight and several of
the Southern Counties. The grower, as a rule.
Is given little or no warning of the danger. The
leaves of the plant will suddenly droop in a wilted
condition and completely lose the
power of restoring their rigidity or
" freshness," and this stage will
then he more or less rapidly
followed by the collapse of the
stem. It is obviously a case of
failure in the supply of water to
the foliage. Now, it is well known
that the stiffness of a leaf is due
to the fact that the tiny cells
composing the soft green tissue in
the meshes of the network of veins
are distended and made firm with
water, much in the same way as
a pneumatic tyre is made firm by
inflating it with air. It is further
known that the leal is constantly
losing water in the form of vapour,
and that this act (loiown as
transpiration) is absolutely neces-
sary for the promotion of growth.
In a healthy plant, however, this
continuous loss of water is replaced
by fresh supplies taken up by the
root system. The absorbed water
is conducted through the tubular
woody cylinder of the stem, and
thence into the veins of the leaf.
From the veins the green tissue
gets its watci to counterbalance
the transpiratory loss. In order to
keep the leaves fresh and healthy —
seeing that transpiration is con-
stant— there must, therefore, be a
sufficiency of water in the soil,
healthy roots, and unimpeded water- A

tubes through the stem from root
to foliage. The immediate cause of the
" sleeping " or wilted condition of a Tomato
plant suSering from this particular disease is a
blockage in the water-conducting system. If you
take one of the diseased plants and cut through
the base of the stem, the woody ring of tissue will
be seen to be darkly discoloured, and on examina-
tion with a microscope it will be discovered that
this appearance is due to the presence of densely-
packed fungoidal threads, choking up the water-
conducting tubes. This being so, it is clear that
when this stage is reached nothing can save the
crop, because it is impossible to scour out these
slender, microscopical tubes and clear a passage
for the ascending water current. If the plants
are so far advanced as to have fully-formed fruits,
they may be allowed to colour off, but no further
growth is at all possible. If the fruits are still
young, the crop may as well be cleared off at once
as allowed to remain. But if the present crop

cannot be saved, safeguards can be taken against
future loss. There is one thing certain, and that
is, if, after the removal of the diseased crop, a
second crop be planted in the same soil (unless it
is specially treated), the disease will break out again
with perhaps increased virulence. This is because
infection comes from the soil through the root,
and not from the air through the leaves. To
understand this we must know something
about the life-history of the fungus that chokes
up the water-tubes in the vascular cylinder of
the stem.

The name by which the fungus is known to science
is Fusarium lycopersici, and it seems to be able to
exist in an organically-manured soil (much as a
Mushroom can) as well as in the body of a Tomato
plant. In the soil it forms long, slender, thready
growths, along which arise swellings that eventually

by such treatment of the soil as will destroy the
spores of the Fusarium, and thus render it safe for
the roots of the young Tomato plants. If the plants
are grown under glass, of course one method of
treatment might be the entire removal of the
infected soil, replacing .it with fresh, healthy soil
for the next crop, in which case it would be wise
(i) to spray the house after the removal of the old
soil and before the introduction of the new with
a one in twenty solution of carbolic acid, and (2) to
take care that the old soil is so isolated that it cannot
act as a future source of infection for Tomato
plants.

In cases where it is desirable that the old soil
should be used, then admixture with a heavy dress-
ing of quicklime has been advocated. But the
safest plan is to sterilise the soil by heat. This
can only be done in anything like a large scale by

FINE VARIETY 01^ THE CARPATHIAN HAIRBELL, CAMPANULA CARPATICA PELVIFORMIS.

ripen into resting spores. It has been observed
that decayed Tomato stems in soil provide a very
favourable food medium for the fungus at this
stage of their growth. Infection takes place from
the soil, the fungus always apparently selecting
the youngest roots. After entering the plant, the
fungal hyph« pass into the water-tubes of the woody
cylinder and grow up through them into the stem.
They branch freely, some of the branches passing
to the surface of the lower stem close to the ground,
where they form a mouldy covering on the skin.
Here, about three weeks after infection, spores are
freely produced, which aid in spreading the disease.
At first the spores are simple in form, but after
about one week's sporulation more complicated
spores of a sickle-like shape are formed which are
of a pale orange colour, and possess a power of
very quick germination. As infection never takes
place by way of the stem, but always through the
root, it follows that prevention can only be seciured

the use of a special sterilising plant, of which several
forms are now on the market.

Tomato-growers should also know that it would
be extremely unwise to use seeds obtained from
parent plants affected with sleeping disease, as it
is an admitted fact that such seeds may carry the
infection to the next generation. Further, as a
matter of precaution, only sturdy plants should be
selected for planting, and all slim, drawn-up
seedlings discarded. Healthy growth should be
encouraged by giving a sufficiency of air, light and
room during the growing season, while the import-
ance of the addition of lime to the soil, especially
if it is rich in organic material, will be obvious to
all Tomato-growers. D. Houston.

Royal College 0/ Science for Ireland.

[Messrs. Marshall, Sons and Co., Limited, of
Gainsborough, send us particulars of boilers and
apparatus that they now let out on hire for
sterilising soil. — Ed.]

448

THE GARDEN.

[September 6, 1913.

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Gladiolus Lady Faire. — A distinct nuvclty of
remarkable colour. The . flowers are white,

NEW (.;L.'\DI0LUS MRS. BROMET.

brightly marked with a conspicuous chestnut
crimson centre.

Gladiolus Lady Northcote. — .\ very pleasing
variety, with flowers soft apricot in colour, blended
with buff yellow ; lip of chrome yellow hue. From
the handsome spike that was shown it is obviously
a robust variety.

Gladiolus Mrs. Bromet. — The flowers are of a
pale creamy yellow colour and borne in a massive
spike, as may be seen from the above illustration.
These three were shown by Messrs. Kelway and
Son, Langport.

Rose Mrs. Andrew Carnegie. — This variety

is already well known to exhibitors of Roses. It
is the result of a cross between Frau Karl Druschki
and Niphetos. A sweetly-scented Rose of grand
e.xhibition form. Described and figured in The
Garden, July 20, 1912, page 365, under " Gold
Medal Roses."

Scabiosa caucasica magnifica.— .\ charming

and large-flowered variety of this well-known
garden plant. The flowers (illustrated on page 445)
are deep lavender blue and delightfully frilled at
the margin. These two were shown by Messrs.
Cocker, Aberdeen.

Montbretia Queen Adelaide. — Another new

seedling Montbretia that bids fair for popularity.
The flowers are over three inches across, well
expauded, and of deep orange colour. In the
centre of the flower is a conspicuous yellow eye,
with a small blotch of red on each segment. Shown
by S. Morris, Esq., Earlham Hall, Norwich (gar-
dener, Mr. Hciihy).

Chrysanthemum Improved Northern Star. —

A very pretty annual Chrysanthemum of the C.
tricolor section. The ray florets are pure white,
with a yellow band at the base surrounding the
purple boss or disc in the centre. An idea of
the regularity in the marking of the flowers is
obtained in the illustration on this page. For
garden decoration and cutting purposes it will prove
an acquisition. Shown by Messrs. Dobbie and Co.

NEW DAHLIAS.

Tlie following awards to Dahlias were made by
a joint committee of the Royal Horticultural
Society and the National Dahlia Society. The
latter society awarded a first-class certificate, and
the former an award of merit, to each variety.

Lily Reed. — A good exhibition variety of the
Caclus-flowcred type. Colour, lemon yellow.
Shown li\- Mr. Shoesmith.

Aphrodite. — An attractive Pa.ony - flowered
variety, white, with orange centre, brom Mr. C.
Turner.

Tusca. — One of the most striking varieties of
till' Collarette section we liave seen. Crimson,
wliite-ccntred.

Prince of Orange. — Another Collarette variety.
It is self-coloured, of a pleasing orange salmon.
These two were shown by Messrs.
Dobbie and Co.

Regulus. — A very neat-flowered
Pompon of a rich purple red
colour. From Messrs. J. Cheal and
Sons.

NEW ORCHIDS.

FlRST-CLASS CERTIFICATES.

Brasso-Cat-Laelia The Baroness.

— This IS a beautiful apricot yellow
hybrid, obtained by intercrossing
Leelio-Cattleya Ophir and Brasso-
Cattleya Mrs. J. Leemann. The
flower is a good size, and the lip is
prettily fringed. From Baron Bruno
Schroder.

Odontonia Eileen. — This is the
result of Miltonia vexillaria G. D.
Owen being crossed with Odonto-
glossum Edwardii. The flower is flat
like a Miltonia, but in colour,
viz., violet purple, it resembles O.
Edwardii. From J. Gumey Fowler,
Esq.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Leelio-Cattleya Ettrick (La;lio-

Cattleya bleti hieyensis x Cattleya
aurea). — A bold flower with rosy
mauve sepals and petals, and an
almost crimson lip. From Messrs.
J. Veitch and Sons, Chelsea.

Lselio-Cattleya Marquise de
Wavrin Orchidhurst variety. —
A purplish magenta hybrid with a
dark crimson lip. Exhibited by
Messrs. Armstrong and Brown,
Tunbridge Wells.

Cattleya hardyana Mrs. Waters Butler (C.

Warsccwiczii x C aurea). — This is a pretty form,
somewhat light in colour, but has a large area of
yellow in the throat of the labellum. From Waters
Butler, Esq., Birmingham.

NEW VEGETABLES AND FRUIT.

Potato Irish King. — A white kidney variety,
with clear skin and shallow eyes. From Messrs.
Barr and Sons, Covent Garden.

Potato Great Scot. — A white, round .ariety,
witli netted skin ,ind rather deep eyes. From
Messrs. K. Vciti h and Sons, Exeter.

Potato Southern Star.— A white, pebble-shaped
Potato, with clear but slightly-netted skin and
shallow eyes. From Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons,
Chelsea. These had been grown in the Society's
gardens at Wisley, having been sent there by the
firms named.

Apple Maidstone Favourite. — This is a new

e;u:ly dessert variety of great promise, being a
seedling from Emperor Alexander. The fruits
are very aromatic, of good size and highly coloured,
scarlet, with yellow on the shaded side. A yoimg
tree exhibited possessed an excellent, sturdy
habit, and this new-comer should prove a very
welcome addition to the early dessert Apples,
coming as it does just at a time when no
other is available. (See illustration on page 444).
Shown by Messrs. George Bunyard and Co,-
Maidstone.

All the foregoing flowers, vegetables and fruit
were shown before the Royal Horticultural
Society on the 26th ult., when the awards
were made

CHRYSANTHEMUM IMPROVED NORTHERN STAR, A
BEAUTirUL ANNUAL SUITABLE FOR CUTTING.

Septempf.r 6, 1913.I

THE GARDEN.

449

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO GROW VIOLETS FOR WINTER FLOWERING.

THE Violet, tliinigh so insignificant to
look at, is a flower that finds favour
with, I may say. pveryone. In shel-
tered positions outside, the plants bear
flowers almost throughout the winter
months, but when given the protection
of a frame they blossom profusely. Even when
ordinarily grown plants are carefully lifted .ind
replanted in prepared beds under glass, they prove
very satisfactory ; but where the plants have been
specially treated through the summer with a view
to planting in a frame in September, the results
often exceed very sanguine e.xpectations.

Planting in Frames. — Both brick and wooden
frames are suitable, but those of medium depth
are the best. The Violet loves the light and air,
and there is, as a rule, none too much of the former
in winter-time. .\11 frames must be duly prepared
prior to the lifting of the plants, as when this work
is done there should be no delay in getting
the lifted plants replanted. If a deep frame — one
about three feet six inches or four feet — be used,
it will be advisable to put in a hotbed of litter and
leaves, but not to allow it to heat violently. If there
is a mild bottom-heat for a few weeks, the Violet
plants will be benefited. The main object of the hot-
bed is, however, the raising of the soil so that the
leaves of the plants will only be a few inches from
the glass when the soil has settled down. If
there is plenty of soil and no litter, then the
soil may be used. If a shallow frame be used,
there will be no need to do more than put in
a bed of good compost about a foot deep. Litter tread on it between the plants.

beds must be built up to the top of the frame and, Lifting the Plants. — Fig. A shows at No. i a
in addition, be well trodden dorni. The litter grand plant neatly lifted and ready for replanting
will naturally sink down, and when the compost j jn the frame ■; No. 2, a brick frame with a
is put on, the sinking will be greater still. hotbed (No. 3) made in it; No. 4, the bed

Compost. — A good friable loam, if procurable, 1 of compost with the plants duly put in. No. 5
should form the bulk of the compost. One bushel depicts a wooden frame with a deep bed of com-
of sweet leaf-soil to three bushels of loam will be a post (No. 0) in it. Here the plants (No. 7)

. ^^-^--''^'j^

^^^^^

,^^^'

A /^777-r/m/777/7777777,

Tins IS A GOOD

TIME TO LIFT VIOLET PLANTS FROM THE OPEN AND TO PLACE
THEM IN FRAMES FOR WINTER FLOWERING.

proper quantity to use. Some sand or road grit must
be added. Make the soil firm, and after planting
is done keep the surface of the soil loose, but only
so with a pointed stick, and do not habitu.illy

my7M//.v^/7//777y7'^ J

B

WHEN FRAMES ARE NOT AT COMMAND, VIOLETS MAY BE GROWN
BORDER AND PROTECTED AS DEPICTED HERE.

IN THE OPEN

are close to the glass. It is easy to admit abund-
ance of air by tilting the lights on the opposite
side to that on which the wind blows. A south
aspect is the best, and it is improved if there is
a low fence or other protection on the north and
east sides.

Protecting Plants in Open Borders.— All

cultivators are not able t.. .illnrd tranie room
for their plants, but nearly all can give them
some protection, which greatly assists the flowering
capacity of the plants. Fig. B shows at No. i
stakes driven into the gromid a few feet from a
low wall. Glass lights arc placed on the cross
sticks (No. 2) and protect the Violets growing
in a prepared bed (No. 3). Even a border similar
to No. 4 would be useful. The lifted plants and
those growing permanently in beds, as shown at
No. 5, must be relieved of all runners (No. 6).
.\nother simple way of protecting the plants in
beds is shown at No. 7. Iron hoops or Hazel
sticks should be fixed over the bed of plants, as
shown at No. 8, and mats (No. 9) placed on them
in bad weather. No. 10 shows bricks or blocks
of wood to keep down the mats. Fully ventilate
all plants in fine weather. q q

CUCUMBERS IN COOL FRAMES.

The summer has not been an ideal one for the
successful cultivation of Cucumbers in frames.
.■\t the same time it is not economical to
attempt to renovate hot-beds where the plants
now possess, mainly, yellow leaves and stunted
fruits. Such should be cleared out without delay.
Where the plahts are younger, however, the culti-
vator may greatly assist them to bear well until
the end of September, or even to the middle of
October, if he cuts away all old material from the
bed outside the frame and replaces it with fresh,
littery manure ; the heat will permeate the whole

l>ed.

Shamrock.

450

THE GARDEN.

[September 6, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Bulb-Planting. — Although full early yet foi
the planting (.)f bulbs in beds and borders, there
is no reason why Scillas, Crocuses and Narcissi
should not be planted where they are to be
naturalised in grass. When planting under trees,
on banks, or on the outskirts of woods for
natural effect, the bulbs must not be planted
in an orthodox manner or the clumps be of one
size or contour, but should be irregular masses
that are fairly thick in the centre, gradually
thinning out towards the outer edges till they merge
almost imperceptibly into the surroundings.
Too thin planting can never be effective, for it
is a bold mass of colour that strikes one at a fair
distance away which is the most effective. Those
varieties that are small in stature, or that are grown
for the novelty or shape of the blooms, such as
' N. cyclamineus and N. Bulbocodium, are far
better planted in small clumps on or near the
rockery, where they can be examined without too
much stooping.

The Rock Garden.

General Work. — Just now there is not much
bloom in the rock garden, and the very dry summer
has tended somewhat to shorten the season of
flowering. To keep many subjects alive, much
artificial watering has had to be done, but even
with this many of the subjects have suffered con-
siderably, and to keep the rockery even tidy
in appearance a great deal of picking over is neces-
sary. As mentioned tmder the heading of pleasure
grounds, bulb-planting may be done now, and
many species and varieties of Tulips, Narcissi,
Snowdrops, Scillas, Fritillarias, Muscari and Irises
may be planted to give a very pleasing effect during
the early spring months. Where the natural
soil of the rock garden is very heavy, it may be
an advantage to lighten the soil somewhat with
leaf-soil and a little sand. It is also wise to mark
where each clump of bulbs is, so that when planting
other subjects they may be chosen so as not to clash
with or cover the bulbs too densely, or the effect
may be spoiled.

Plants Under Glass.

Pot Roses. — Where these are cultivated for
early spring forcing, the present is a very good
time to go through them, potting those that require
it and top-dressing others. A fairly holding
and rich loam is best for Roses, with a little bone-
meal added to it. After potting, to encourage
root action, the pots should be placed fairly closely
together, or they may be partially plunged in ashes,
or old litter placed between them will answer
the same purpose. Precautions should be taken
against worms getting into the pots, or they will
prove troublesome when the pots are taken indoors.
Spray lightly overhead for a few days after potting,
should the weather be hot, not forgetting the
necessity of keeping down mildew by using one
or other of the fungicides.

Climbing Roses, such as Crimson Rambler,
Dorothy Perkins and Hiawatha, should be potted
every season, as these make much more root
than the Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas,
though, unless very large plants are required, the
balls of soil may be reduced somewhat at the time
of potting, so that they may be rettimed into pots
of from 9 inches to 12 inches in diameter.

Cannas. — Where these are grown imder names
or numbers, they should be gone over before they
go out of flower to see that they are correctly named,
as even one or two wrongly named this season
may mean a fairly general mix up next year
after the plants are split up. This remark applies
equally well to any collection of named plants.

Primulas. — The latest batches will now be
ready for their flowering pots, and there is no
advantage in giving too big a shift at this season.
Rather lighter soil may be used now as an induce-
ment to quick rooting, and if the plants are at all
backward, a little warmth in the frames or house
during the night will help them materially. Earlier
batches should be given more space as they require
it, so that they may develop good, strong and
liealthy foliage that will keep through the winter.

The Kitchen Garden.

Winter Brassicas. — in this neighbourhood,
owing to the drought, many of the early-planted

Brassicas have not done as well as one would like
to see them, and it may be wise, even at this late
date, to plant as many Christmas Cabbages, Cole-
worts and Kales as can be got, so as to make up any
deficiency. It is not necessary to plant these very
far apart ; 18 inches between the rows and a foot
apart in the rows should be ample.

Cucumbers for winter use must be planted at
once, so that they may become nicely established
before the really short days. The temperature
at night must be kept up fairly well to maintain
a steady and healthy growth, and the syringings
must not be so heavy as earlier in the season.
Sufficient moisture must be given to ensure them
being kept free from spider and thrip. Plants that
may be fruiting in frames may be kept going some
little time longer by giving the frames a good
lining of fresh manure and, if necessary, a top-
dressing of soil or manure inside the frames.

Fruits Under Glass.

Pot Trees.^ — Early-forced Peaches and Nectarines
should be repotted before they lose their foliage ;
hence the matter should be taken in hand at once,
doing the earliest varieties first and following on
with the others as they become fit. Turfy loam,
lime rubble, wood-ashes and a little bone-meal
make a suitable compost. Except in the case
of very young trees (which may be given a size
larger pot), most of the trees will have to be returned
to the same-sized pot, so that the old ball of soil
must be considerably reduced. This should be done
carefully with a pointed stick, cutting back all
the large roots and preserving the fine ones as
much as possible.

Careful Crocking is very necessary, and it is
best to err on the side of overcrocking rather than
under, as once the soil becomes water-logged
the fruit is boimd to suffer ; so cover the crocks
'larefully with good fibre before adding fresh soil,
ramming this latter very evenly all round, leaving
sufficient space, wherever possible, for a top-dressing
or two during the growing season. After potting,
water thoroughly and keep well syringed for a
few days until the leaves show signs of firmness
again, when the syringing may gradually be left
off. Plum trees also should be potted as they
become fit, the same details applying here as to the
Peaches and Nectarines.

Thomas Stevenson.
{Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, A ddleslone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Dahlias. — These showy autumn flowers are
now at their best. The plants should be carefully
gone over, and any shoots that are likely to be
damaged by the September winds should be looped
loosely in with binder twine. See that all the plants
are correctly and legibly named, as it is much
easier to identify doubtful varieties now than
later on.

Gladioli. — See that none of the plants gets
" hanked " on accotmt of growth being made
below the tie. Cut awav any decayed flowers.
I can strongly recommend America as a vigorous
flesh-coloured variety for growing in quantity.

Carnation Layers. — These should mostly be
rooted now, and, if so, should be severed from the
parent plant and either planted where they are
to bloom next season or planted thickly where
they can have the protection later on of some
sashes. We pot them up, but where there are
large quantities grown, this is not always practicable.
Spring planting is to be commended on clayey
subsoils such as we have to deal with here.

Chrysanthemums. — These are now turning
in, and will form one of the chief sources of the cut
flower supply for some time. See that stakes
and ties are all right, or much damage may be
done by the autunan winds which are sure to come.

Sweet Peas are now getting past their best,
but should stand out till the end of the month
if the weather is fine. A dressing of soot or
other stimulant will help to keep the flower-stems
from shortening too rapidly.

The Rose Garden.

Mildew. — If present, this ubiquitous fungus
must still be fought. Sulphide of potassimn, at

the rate of half an ounce to a gallon of water,
is the most popular mixture for spraying with.

Preparing for Planting. — In two months hence
the plantmg season will be on, and where planting
is proposed and the ground is available, the prepara-
tion of the soil should be proceeded with as soon
as possible. No plant appreciates the benefit of
deep cultivation more than the Rose, and the
ground should be trenched not less than 2 feet
deep. A fairly heavy soil is preferable to a light
one, and whatever the nature of the soil, happy
are those who can incorporate some maiden loam
with it. A dressing of lime and wood-ashes will
also prove beneficial. For the benefit of beginners
I hope to say something about varieties next week.

The Shrubbery.

Rhus Coriaria. — This is a most desirable subject "
for the shrubbery, as its purplish red foliage is
very telling in autumn.

Planting Rhododendrons. — Those who contem-
plate planting Rhododendrons will not find a better
time for the operation than the month of October.
It will be well to get the soil ready for them now.
Although peat is the ideal medium for Rhodo-
dendrons to root in, yet for most of the popular
varieties peat is not essential, although a propor-
tion of it is desirable. Silky loam and sand mixed
with peat, moss litter from the stables, or half-
decayed Oak or Beech leaves will grow Rhodo-
dendrons quite well. Beginners should note
that these plants hate lime in every form.

Plants Under Glass.

Housing. — This work must now be proceeded
with, beginning with such subjects as Azalea
indica, Camellias and Salvia splendens. The
pots should first be thoroughly washed, and any
greasy substance cleaned off the surface of the
soil with a thin piece of wood. Any plants requir-
ing top-dressing should also have attention. Any
necessary staking or tying should also be done
now.

Potting Bulbs.— A first batch of bulbs should
now be potted up if early bloom is wanted.
Hyacmths, Tulips and Narcissi are ail the better
for being plimged in ashes, sand, or light soil for
about six weeks after being potted or boxed. Give
a good watering after potting or boxing.

Framing Sweet Violets. — This work should
be taken in hand now. See that all runners are
cut away before lifting the plants. Lift with good
balls of soil, and plant in frames near the glass
in about a foot of rich loamy soil. Water well
when finished and put on the sashes, but keep
them well tilted up night and day for the present.
Shade may be afforded in the middle of the day
for a week if bright sunshine occurs.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Manuring Small Fruit Trees. — Most authorities
are now agreed that Gooseberries and Currants,
especially those which have borne heavy crops
of fruit, are benefited by an autumn dressing of
some readily assimilated manure, natural or
artificial ; this assists the plumping up of the
buds, in which much of the energy necessary for
next season's work is stored.

Pinching. — This is a good time to go over the
Apple and Pear trees and pinch the growths back
to about three inches of their bases. If this was
done earlier, the trees are apt to make fresh growth,
but done at this period it assists the process of
energising the buds.

The Kitchen Garden.
Storing Onions. — Bulbs which have been pulled
for some time should now be bunched and hmig
up in an open shed. The remainder of the crop
had better be lifted now, but if any portion of it
refuses to go to rest, bend the tops gently over
to arrest growth.

Planting Spring Cabbages.— This work should
now be carried out. The small varieties used
forthis purpose may be planted thickly, 15 inches
by 12 inches being quite wide enough. If pigeons
are about, it will be well to put up a scarecrow.

Hoeing. — Run the hoe m between the rows ol
recently-sowii Onions and Spinach, and all vacant
groimd should be kept clean and tidy.

Spring Lettuces which were sown last month

will now be ready for transplanting, and the warmest

part of a south border should be selected for the

crop. Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

September 6, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

451

A CUNNING HAND AMONG
THE BRANCHES.

THE following notes on the bifurcation
and branching of trees, copied from
Chambers' Journal, Vol. VII., January
to June, 1857, have been sent us
by a reader : " Did you ever notice
that sometimes two branches of a tree
produce a perfect bifurcation ; that is, that they
separate from a common point ? If you examine
closely, you will find that such branches took their
departure from one and the same bud. In rarer
instances, you may see five or six branches all
starting from a common centre, and with a regularity
that surprises when contrasted with the arrange-
ment of the rest of the tree. These effects are
now and then produced by gemming or inoculating,
and not seldom by the vinassisted handiwork
of Nature. When the latter is the case, the
bifurcation is caused b> the bite of a caterpillar
or some other voracious insect. An insect has
but to gnaw the point of a bud to make it grow
double, triple, quadruple and so forth, to trans-
form itself, indeed, into numerous buds, thereafter
distinct and separate, each passing singly through
all the phases of its vegetation. What is here
said applies to buds that produce wood ; it is
equally true of those that produce fruit. The
insect plies its mandibles and quite unconsciously
starts a new order of developments. After all,
however, a little reflection would lead us to believe
that buds might be as fecund as seeds. If one
grain of Wheat produces many grains, why not
one bud many buds, if we can only get it mto the
right condition ? What this condition is we
learn from the insect. At all events, it has been
learned by M. Millot-Brule of Rethel (Ardennes),
and turned to gaod account, for he produces
effects at pleasure without waiting for the accident
of an insect : With the point of a penknife or a
slip of sand-paper he makes buds produce as many
branches as he chooses. The notion occurred to
him in 1840, and he at once made experiments
which were sjiccessful ; and, repeating these year
by year, he has now produced a new and similarly
interesting process of arboriculture. A Commission
appointed by the Minister of Agriculture and
Public Works to examine into it reported in the
following terms of what they had seen in M.
Millot-Brule's gardens : Several Peach stems pre-
sent a multitude of branches proceeding from the
same centre with mathematical regularity and
symmetry. By skilful disbudding, by incisions,
and nipping of the buds or shoots he arranges the
trees in a way at once the most picturesque and
fantastique. Under his fingers the obedient
branches assume the most varied and elegant
forms : he increases the fructification, and develops
the formation of buds according to his wish.
Thoroughly to illustrate the results, diagrams
would be necessary. We shall, however, endeavour
to explain as clearly as the subject will admit of.
M. Millot-Brule's elementary figure consists of a
straight branch which from one common centre
separates into fifteen branches, resembling, in fact,
a sm.ill tree with a regularly formed head. A
second represents an espalier Peach tree, the
branches of which radiate in the form of a wheel,
each branch terminating in an oval ring of smaller
branches, developed at regular intervals. From
these simple forms others of a more complex nature
;nay be produced : a single stem, properly managed,
will form a square, a parallelogram, cr a series of

circles so elegant in design that if copied in papier-
mSchfi they would be prized as graceful ornaments
for the drawing-room. The buds may be multi-
plied and the branches sent off entirely at the
pleasure of the cultivator. Hence there is no limit to
the forms which may be produced. In the course of
his experiments he discovered one of the interesting
secrets of arboriculture — namely, that little branches
must not be developed immediately opposite each
other on a horizontal branch trained against 3 wall,
or on stakes ; and the reason is, that the branches
which rim upwards take up all the sap at the expense
of those running downwards ; the latter, conse-
quently, languish. It therefore becomes abso-
lutely necessary to develop the small branches
alternately — each lower one between two upper
ones^on all horizontal branches. It is possible,
moreover, to assist the lower branches by bending
the upper ones upon themselves, making them
form a sort of knot, but always with the precaution
of leaving the extreme points in an upward
direction.

" The process in its simplest form appears to
be to decapitate the buds with a penknife as soon
as the sap begins to circulate in the spring. In
a few days two new buds appear at the base of the
bud thus operated on, and the vegetation of these
is easily equalised by expert trimming, or pinching
off when necessary. The equilibrium once estab-
lished, these two buds may be similarly treated,
and as each will produce two more, any number
of branches may be obtained, and a thick, full
head developed on the top of a single stem. To
make branches shoot in different directions, the
terminal bud of the main branch is pinched at
one side or the other, according as the direction
required is to the right or left ; and the new buds
being pinched in turn, perfect control is established
over each branch from its very earliest growth."

ARSENIC COMPOUNDS AS
INSECTICIDES.

VARIOUS compounds of arsenic are
used in gardens as insecticides, and
quite a number of the proprietary
preparations sold for a similar purpose
have that substance as one of the
active ingredients. All these prepara-
tions are deadly poisons, hence they must be
used most carefully and judiciously ; where they
are employed on fruit trees and bushes or on plants
which will be taken to the kitchen, the subjects
treated should always be syringed strongly with
tepid water the next day, and even then spraying
should cease at least a fortnight before the products
are to be used. When the plants are not edible,
nothing can excel arsenic as a thorough, long-
lasting insecticide, and there should not be the
slightest hesitation in using it freely. A little
experimenting may be done to see if the plants
are not injured by the mixtures which the gardener
expects to spray in the garden, and this will prevent
damage being done by scorching of the foliage ;
otherwise half-hardy and hardy vegetation of all
kinds will not be affected in the least. We have
never used any of the substances we are about
to mention on decorative stove plants ; perhaps
the Editor may allow a little correspondence from
those who have. [Certainly. — Ed.] During early
summer Rose caterpillars and chafers. Gooseberry
caterpillars and all foliage-eating pests will be

miknown where an effective arsenic preparation
is employed.

Paris Green is the substance most commonly
in use. It is insoluble in water and apt to scorch
plants when used too strongly. The presence of
lime prevents the scorching effect, and at the same
time holds the particles longer in suspension in
the water or liquid. A useful strength at which
this substance can be used is loz. in five to ten
gallons of lime-water — surely a cheap preparation
when the Paris green can be had for 2d. an ounce.
Stir the Paris green into some water until a thin,
creamy liquid is obtained ; pour this into the
requisite gallons of lime-water, stir well up and
keep stirring all the time during spraying ; the
substance clings fairly well to the foliage ; the
mixture keeps indefinitely. Spray in the evening
or on a dull day when there is no strong sun, and
see that the under sides of the foliage get attention.
No great force is necessary, but the finer the sprav
the better film will be obtained over all the plants.

Lead Arsenate is more diflScult to work into a
thin homogeneous liquid, but once a fine mixture
is obtained it lingers much longer in suspension,
and stirring is not absolutely necessary if the mixture
is used shortly after it is prepared. This substance
is much more adhesive and will remain on the foliage
even after very heavy rains ; it is better than
Paris green in wet weather. The action of the
lead compound is slower then the former, but where
the preparation is utilised to prevent an attack,
rather than to eradicate a virulent pest, it will be
found preferable. Many experiments have been
carried out lately with

Arsenate of Iron, and these seem to prove
that this is even more efficient and desirable than
any of the others. Each of the three is made
as recommended for the first. Iron arsenate
adheres well to the foliage, and has the merit of
proclaiming its presence by the dirty green film
or skin over all the subject which is sprayed. This
preparation is advised for Vines, and, as it docs
not have the scorching effect of Paris green, should
be made use of when delicate plants are under
treatment. After fruits are removed from plants
or bushes which have been attacked by caterpillars
or other pests, they should be sprayed with the
arsenic mixture immediately ; even in mild
attacks or as a preventive its use is justified.
Birds will leave buds or flowers severely alone
if arsenic has been used, and practically all summer
pests, including slugs, are non-existent when it
is freely sprayed over the plants.

All the compounds mentioned are cheap and,
in small quantities, about equal in price. A rlh.
tin of the dry powder or paste will serve a long time,
and for cheapness, combined with efficiency,
cannot be surpassed. H. H. A.

THE EDITOR'S TABLE.

A Tall GladioIUS.^Messrs. Barr and Sons of
King Street, Covent Garden, send a Gladiolus
plant, the flower-spike of which attains a height
of 8 feet. Messrs. Barr write : " We thought
you would like to see a specimen of a wonderfully
tall new Gladiolus called Semaphore. It is a hybrid
gandavensis, and has been grown for us in the
trial grounds of the National Gladiolus Society
at Locksheath, Southampton. AH the plants
reached a height of 6 feet, but this, you will see,
is still taller. At Locksheath it towered above
all other varieties."

452

THE GARDEN.

[September 6, 1Q13.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor Mends to
rrnikc THE Gaiidkn hflvHd to M readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch at gardening may be, and
with thai object mil make a special fenture o/ the -Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All commimications shovld be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor 0/ The Gardkn, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to he used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and seevrely
packed in damv arass or nmss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. Jt is useless to send
small 'scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on bu.mess should be sent to the Prr.LiSHER.

FLOWER GARDEN.

STOCKS DYING (M. T.}. — Wi' failed to find any insect
or fungus to account for the death of the Stocks, and the
onlv thing to be noticed (apart from the brown and yellow
colourin- they showed) was the poor development of the
root as 'thontrh wireworms or some other soil pest, which,
however, wr\s not present in the specimens, had destroyed
them.

LILY DISEASE <R. T.). — The white Lilies are attacked
bv the ordinary Lily disease, due to the fungus Botrylis
oinerea The rinlv thing wo can suggest is to see there is
nlentv of lime rubble in the soil, that the plants are pro-
tected from cold winds, and to remove the top 2 mches or
3 inches of soil in spring and replace it with fresh sterilised
soil It must, however, be confessed that these measures
are 'not entirely successful. The Liliura auratums are
attacked bj the fungus Rhi/opus in the bulbs, and as no
cure is known, it would be well to destroy thorn.

HONEYSUCKLE AND ROSE (.Uws £. B.).— There does
not appear to be any reason why your Honeysuckle and
Rose should not flower under the conditions you name,
■mless you have over-pruned them. The Honeysuckle
mav^he left (luitc unpruned this and next year, when yon
wili probablv obtain flowers. As a rule. Honeysuckles
do not flowc! so well when young as they do later. 1 ry
removing the weak shoots from your Rose and leaving the
more vioorons ones unpruned. It may then blossom next
vear The positions are not likely to be at fault.

ABOUT NARCISSI, LILACS AND ZONAL PELAR-
GONIUMS (If .S.I.— You may t.akc up the Narcissi bulbs
■Tnd replant them at ouce. The lifting of t.he bulbs soon
■ifter tiie flowers had faded woiUd give them a greater
check than lifting them now. In pruning standard
T ilacs it is only necessary to remove very weakly shoots
that w'ould cause overcrowding as soon as the flowers have
faded Newlv-potted Zonal Pelargoniums will lose leaves
if the soil is kept too dry or over-watered. The leaves
Hrst turn yellow and then fall olT. These plants may be
repotted at any time of the year, except in the depth of
winter, when the artificial heat is low. Probably your
Lemon-scented Verbena plant had got dry at the roots.
When this condition obtains, the leaves soon become
spotted and shrivel up.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

CLEMATIS FAILING (Dei'on).— Wc regret to r

that Clematis Vitalba will not grow in your neighb ■
hood, and suggest the following climbers for trial : Loni 1:1
iaponica var. halleana, Celastrus articulatns and A i- o-
iochia Sipho. All are vigorous growers, and it is pro le
that they will prove successful with you.

DWARF EVERGREENS FOR A DRY BANK FACING
SOUTH \a. B.). — The following shrubs are all suitable
for your purpose : Vinca minor, 3 inches to 4 inches,
flowers blue ; Hypericum calycinum, 9 inches to 12 inches,
flowers yellow ;" Helianthemum vulgare and varieties,
6 inches "to 9 inches, flowers yellow, red, rose and white ;
Cistus monspeliensis and C. corbariensis, 12 inches to
18 inches, flowers white ; and Juniperus Sabina prostrata,
6 inches. .\ny or all of these plants are likely to thrive
and provide a good effect.

LARCH LEAVES FOR EXAMINATION (M. /.).— The
Larch is attacked by the insect called Chermes Larieio.
It is a near ally of the aphides or green flies : but the waxy
threads which proceed from its body prevent the insecti-
cides from reaching it quite as easily as they will the
ordinary green flies. Another thing complicates its history,
in that in autumn, from now onwards, the Chermes leaves
the Larch and goes to the Spruce, on which it passes the
winter, tiie insect there producing curious, rather cone-
like galls. The best treatment will be to spray the
tiees^with a nicotine wash now, so as to kill as many of
the insects as possible.

THEfLARGEST TULIP TREES (H. fl.).— Two of the
largest specimens of the Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipi-
fera) growiug in the British Isles are to be found in the
respective gardens of Sir E. Loderat Leonardsleo, Horsham,
Sussex, and Miss Talbot, Margam Park, Port Talbot,
South Wales. These are between 95 feet and 105 feet
high, with vcrv large trunks. Wo have no evidence as

to where and when the flr.st variegated-leaved variety
appeared. A great deal of information respecting large
trees of this species may be obtained in " Trees of
Great Britain and Ireland." by Messrs. Elwes and Henry.
TREATING A BANK (31. D ).— We think you have in
the plants you name — Rhododendron, Azalea, Buddleia
and Veronica — a capital set. and as in each case these
are to be had in considerable variety, we should feel
inclined to make the most of them. Double Gorse and
some of the hardy Heaths, varieties of Erica vulgaris
more particularly, might also be added, the latter being
planted in irregular groups or masses along the lower
portion of the bank. The bank would of necessity require
some preparation, digging and manuring, and the former
might be done liberally. The Buddleias might be planted
at intervals of a dozen feet along the upper part, with
groups of the Portuguese Heath intervening ; then might
appear Veronicas and Rhododendrons in the order named,
or, if more variety was desired, the yellow-flowered
Forsythia could be introduced here and there.

THE GREENHOUSE.

PERPETUAL-FLOWERING CARNATIONS (.7. E.).—
These may be grown on a second year, but, of course,
a great deal depends upon the condition the plants are
in. Furthermore, some varieties lend themselves to this
treatment much more readily than others. As you speak
of your plants being very tall, and. presumably, poorly
furnished at the base, we should say that they are, in
all probability, not worth persevering with for another
season.

WATER TANK IN GREENHOUSE (M. E. G.).—
Undoubtedly the large tank would be very useful in the
greenhouse, and the water in it would be very nearly as
warm as the temperature of the structure. You may
cover the top of the tank with boards, having a small
hinged door in a convenient place for the withdrawal of
water as desired. There would be no excessive moisture
from the co^'ered tank — none that would prove harmful
to plants ill the house.

ARUM MRS. ROOSEVELT GOING WRONG (Hards).—
Too much water is the main cause of your plants of Arum
.Mrs. Roosevelt behaving as they have done. Of course, we
know nothing of the condition of the bulbs when potted,
but standing in saucers of water would account for your
non-success." In potting the bulbs, the pots should be
ett'ectively drained, and the soil watered but moderately
till growth appears. Then, as leaves and flower-spikes
develop and the pots get well furnished with roots, copious
supplies of water should be given, but at the same time
facilities must be allowed for the surplus moisture to
drain away. After flowering, the pots may be stood out
in the open till the leaves die down, when they must he
kept dry in the greenhouse during the winter, and in early
spring shaken quite clear of the old soil and be repotted.
PRIMULA OBCONICA (J. £.).— Presumably your
Primulas have been flowering for some time, and are
now past their best. It in good condition, they are
certainly worth keeping, providing you give them careful
attention with as little delay as possible. We should
advise you to cut off all flowers and flower-spikes and
any old and exhausted leaves ; then turn the plants
out of their pots and remove as much of the old soil as
can be done without unduly distressing the roots. .A.fter
this, repot in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould and sand,
and place the plants, if possible, in a frame where they
are shaded from the direct rays of the sun. In most
cases you will doubtless find that after the superfluous
soil is removed, the plants will not require pots any larger
than those in which they have been grown. After repot-
ting, the roots will soon take possession of the new soil
and fresh blossoms be quickly pushed up.

BLUE AND MAUVE FLOWERS (H. .S.).— In our
opinion you are set an impossible task, for the number of
blue and mauve flowers suitable for such a purpose is very
limited. Even if flowers of all colours were allowed, and
vou have only a vinery and forcing pit in which to grow
them, it would be a difficult matter to keep up a succession
all the year round. By eliminating all flowers except
those that are blue and mauve in colour, you are deprived
of most subjects generally used for decorative purposes.
Hyacinths, Crocuses and Scilla sibirica. if potted soon,
may, by forcing, be had in bloom early in the year, and
Neinesia Blue Gem, sown in the autumn, will flower in
the spring. Cinerarias, too, may be had in various shades
of blue, and Primulas also will supply the required tints.
In summer you may depend upon such subjects as
Campanulas, Achimenes, Gloxinias, Statices of sorts,
SoUya Drummondii (the Bluebell Creeper of Australia),
Solanum Wendlandli. Streptoiarpuses, Exacum macran-
thum, Impatiens Oliveri a, id rlumbago capensis. In
late summer the rich pur|ili'.li blue flowers of Lasiandra
macrantha are very showy, liut in late autumn and winter
the choice is very limited. Colons thyrsoideus, a beautiful
rich blue flower, is very fine at that season, but it is delicate
for room decoration, while two mauves are Erlangea
tomentosa and Erica melaiitbera.

FERNS FROM SPORES (Han(«).— The sports should
"erminate in about a month. The first sign 0/ growth
is a green moss-like substance, which covers the surface
of the soil. The spores of most Ferns are so minute
that it is almost impossible to sow them thinly ; hence
dose inspection of the moss-like matter will reveal the
fact that it is made up of a vast number of tiny scales.
As these grow crowded together, they are very liable
to damp off, to prevent which small clumps must be
carefully lifted and pricked off into prepared pots or pans
of fine soil. A small-pointed stick will be very useful
for lifting them from the seed-pots and also for pricking
them off. It is, of course, necessary to keep them shaded.

Directly the young fronds commence to push up, they
should be again pricked off, in order to allow space for
their development. In some soils a tiny< moss will
make its appearance quite as soon as the germinating
spores, and will choke many of them. To prevent this
it is a good plan to bake the soil before the spores are sowTl
on it, as this destroys both vegetable and insect pests.

ROSE GARDEN.

SIZE OF SHOW BOX (jliyraAiie).— For twelve blooms
the box must be 2 feet long, and all boxes are 18 inches
wide and 4 inches high in front. The tubes must he
5 Inches apart each way, measuring from the centre of the
tube.

WICHURAIANA ROSES TO DROOP OVER WALL
(Brownie). — Hiawatha would do well, but Leuchtstern
would be too stiff in growth. Other good, bright kinds
would he Excelsa, Sodenia, Newport Fairy and Troubadour,
and the following, although not reds, would be excellent :
Shower of Gold. Frau C. Hesse, Leontine Gervaise,
American Pillar and Silver Moon.

ROSES FOR COLD GREENHOUSE (E. hangman).—
Vou Would flud " The Century Book of Gardening " very
helpful to you, as it gives abundant hints in greenhouse
management. It is published at these offices. " Rose
Growing Made Easy," alsofrom the same offices, gives most
useful hints on the greenlunisc culture of Roses. You
could grow excellent Roses on the walls marked A and B.
We advise some climbers on .\, such as Gustave RegiSj
Florence H. Veitch, Mme, Abel Chatenay, Billiard et
Barre, Cliinliing Ladv Asht.iwn. Climbing Mrs. W. J.
Grant, Climliiiig I.ihertv. Clinibiim Richmond, Bouquet
d'Or, Carobii.' i'lstout and Fran Karl Druscliki ; for Wall B,
Mrs. H. Stevens, General Macarthur, Lyon Rose, .Mme.
Ravar>, Duchess of Wellington, .Mrs. Amy Haramoud,
Sunburst, Joseph Hill, Prince de Bnlgarie, .Mme. Charles
Lutand and Edward Mawley. Prepare the border well,
digging it :E feet deep, and add some good manure ai.d basic
slag to the lower soil. Plant in October or November,
and prune back hard the first season about February.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

PARSLEY TURNING PINK (C. a.).—\m might,
perhaps, try the olfe.ct of watering the Parsley with a
weak solution of sulphate of potash (half an ounce to
a gallon of water). It may be owing to lack of potash
that the plants are losing their green colouring.

ASPARAGUS THREE OR FOUR YEARS OLD (Miles).—
The bed should be in full hearing next year. Cut all the
young grass next season which appears above ground until
jiine~20. Then stop cutting for good for that season.
The small grass, if cut young, is excellent for s.iups. For
the summer treatment, keep ttie bed free from weeds ; give
a good soaking of manure-water from stable or cowyard in
.Tuly, repeating the dose a month later and again about
the' middle of September. If manure-water is not avail-
able, the following will answer the purpose as well : To
every two gallons of clean water apply a good handful of
best Canary Guano, well dissolving it in the water before
applving. For the autumn and winter treatment, as soon
as the grsss is ripe and yellow, cut otf and clear it away
immediately afterwards, and rake off the loose soil or
spent manure into the alley or path beside the bed. Then
cover the bed over with half-rotted farmyard manure,
spreading a little soil from the alley to give the bed a neat
appearance, turning over the surface soil of the alleys at
the same time to give them a tidy appearance during
winter. For the spring treatment, at the end of March
rake off the loose part of the top-dressing (manure placed
on in autumn) into the alley, then dig the alley up by the
side of the bed (on both sides), mixing the manure, and
well water the soil. Having done this, cover the bed over
(4 inches deep) with the soil from the alley. The young
grass will be partly blanched in tbis soil as it grows, and
should be cut close to the crown of the plant with a proper
Asparagus knife as soon as it is 2 inbhes or 3 inches above
ground. The best time to apply salt is immediately after
the bed has been covered with soil in spring. It should
be applied at the rate of a pint to the square yard of ground.

MISCELLANEOUS.

THE BEST BLACKBERRY (Patch).— Via think the
best is the Parsley-leaved English Blackberry. We know
of a plant growing on woodwork with at least 301b. of
fruit on it, the first lot of fruit being picked a week ago.
This is an old and well-known variety, and any nursery-
man advertising in THE G.\RDEN will supply you.

MUSSEL SCALE ON PEARS (IF. W. H.).— The Pears
are badlv attacked by the mussel scale. Spraying with
caustic soda (21b. to ten gallons of water) while the trees are
dormant is the best winter treatment, for it loosens and
causes to fall many of the scales made by the female under
which to deposit her eggs. Scrubbing is a good measure
on the trunk. If this treatment is insuflacient (as is likely
when the attack is so very bad), spray again when the
young scales hatch out in June (or sometimes in May)
with a nicotine wash.

COX'S ORANGE APPLE TREE (K. M. j:.).— The
blossom with wiiich the tree is now furnished is the result
of the premature ripening of a few of the fruit-buds, which
not infrequently happens on trees recently planted or
trees which have been root-pruned. The resulting fruit,
if any, will bo of no use, so the blossom had better be picked
off "it should make little or no difl'eronce to the tree
fruiting all right next year. Give the soil a good liming
this autumn, forking it into the soil 4 inches deep, and
applying it at the rate of ouc gallon to the square yard.

«^ &uV-

jm GARDEN.!

4^u^t^

No. 2182.--V0L. LXXVIL

September 13. 1913.

CONTENTS.

NOTES OF THE Wp:i:k

COKKESPONDENCE
Tiie best white bed-

dinu Rose . .
A veti^'ran Cvclami'ii
I lie xMidland Daffodil

Society
llo^e Irish Eleijance

Beautiful bul ho us
greunhouse plants :
The Xeriiie^ . .

Tulips in Krass . .

A. charming Crocus for
the rock garden . .

Bulb lists

.\Liy-flowering Tulip•^
under youns Applr
trees

l*oetaz Narcissi . .

The Daffodil tly

A dainty Daffodil

Weeding out weak-
growing Daffodils..

Narcissus Brighteyc. .

The Crown or Poppy
Aneniono

4:..^

Naturalitfhig Dalfodil>
in grass 461

Coloured Plate
Some good new
Daffodils .. .. 161

What is a florist's
rtowcr ? 462

Narcissus CoUeen . . 46a

A gorgeous Tulip . . 463

Daffodils i]\ New

Zealand 463

Gardening fok Beginners
Growing bulbs in

fibre 465

Potting and boxing
Lobelia . . . . 465
Gardening of the Week
Tor Sout hern ga r-

dens . . , , . . 466
For Nort hern ga r-

dens 46G

"The Daffodil Year-
Book" 467

Cossington House . . 467
Registration of now
plants 468

IliliUSTRATIONS.

Campanula lanata , . . 454

A beautiful grouping of J[ay-tlowt'ring Tulips . . .. 457

Narcissus Aspasia, a beautiful Poetaz variety . . . . 458

Narcissus triandrus calathinus 459

Narcissus Brighteyc, a new Poeticus variety , . . . 460

Daffodil* naturalised in grass in Cumberland . . .. 461

Some good new Daffodils Coloured plate

A woodland scene in spring 462

Narcissus Colleen, a beautiful new variety . . . . 463

A beautiful bowl of Tulip? Prince do Ligne . . , . 464

Growing bulbs in fibre 465

A beautiful group of Daffodils 467

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor tcelcomes photogniphe, articles and notes,
but he will vot he responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, itill be taken, and tvhere stamps
are enclosed, he mil endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

As rcjaids jihotugtaphs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asl;s that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated icith.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions ickich he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
he recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tarislock Street, CorenI Garden, W.C.

Musk Without Scent.— Will " F. M., Surrey,"
wliose note on tlif aliove subject appeared on
page 430 of August 30 issue, please send us his
full name and address. We liave a number of
letters to forward to him

Collarette Dahlia H. Farman. — This is one of

the most showy members of a comparatively
new race, and a valuable plant for the outdoor
garden just now. Its fiowers stand well above
the foliage, and their crimson scarlet and deep
primrose colour is very striking. Although not
greatly enamoured with Collarette Dahlias, we
cannot overlook the usefulness of the variety
under notice where bold masses of colour are
desired.
The Early-flowering Cosmos. — For some weeks

we have been enjoying the dainty blossoms of the
early-flowering Cosmos, a race introduced some
few years ago by Messrs. Dobbie and Co. We
have three varieties, viz., Crimson King, Rose
Queen and White Queen. The drawback to the
old Cosmos bipinnatus was its late flowering,
but this has been entirely overcome in this new
race, the units of which deserve to be grow-n in
every garden. They are ver>- dainty for cutting.
The Purple Cone-flower. — One of the most

attracti\'e plants in the herbaceous border just now
is the Purple Cone-flower, Rudbeckia atropiir-
purea. This is a hardy perennial of stately mien,
attaining a height of 3 feet or more in good soil.
The flowers, which resemble in shape those of a
perennial Sunflower, are bright rose piu'ple in
colour, aiid the plant is sometimes erroneously
referred to as the red or purple Sunflower. It
seems to appreciate well-enriched soil and a fairly
open position.

A Beautiful Herbaceous Lobelia. — One often
sees and reads of the red shades of Lobelias of the
fulgens and cardinalis type, but seldom is any
mention made of the beautiful Lobelia Milleri, with
its flowers of rich purple. It is a hybrid between
the well-known L. 'fulgens and the hardy L.
syphilitica, and is quite as easy to grow as any of
the others. A large bed of any of the ordinary
bedding yellow Calceolarias intermixed with this
little-known Lobelia makes a very effective autumn
combination.

Fuchsias lor the Outdoor Garden. — .Anyone
desirous (tf growing nniamental free-flowering
plants with little trouble would do well to try some
of the hardy Fuchsias for the wild garden, the front
of shrubberies, or in a large bed by themselves.
They commence to flower in June or early in July,
and give a wealth of blossom from then until the
frost comes. There are several kinds, but Fuchsia
gracilis is perhaps the better known, although
F. globosa, F. Riccartoni and F. coccinea are equally
as good. In the South-West and other more
favourable parts of England they form hedges, but
in the colder regions of this country thev are best

treated as herbaceous plants, cutting them down
in winter. If the weather is very severe they
should have a layer of ashes put over the crowns ;
but it must be taken off as soon as the weather
breaks. They may be increased by cuttings now,
or by divisions in the spring.

The Lyre-flower as a Pot Plant. — The beautifid

Dicentr.i spect.ili:lis )s !'■(. well known to need any
recommendation. It is not, however, generally
known that it is excellent for pot culture. Good
strong pieces should be potted up now, and the
pots plunged in ashes for a short time, similar to
the treatment given to bulbs in pots, to encourage
root growth. Then the plants may be gently
forced, and will come into bloom early in the New-
Year, or thev may be grown under cooler condi-
tions, criming nil later before the outdoor flowers.

A Charming Combination of Pink. — h few

days ago we noticed a rather unique but effective
combination of perennial and annual flowers. The
bed was a large, circular one in a broad expanse
of lawn. In this the Japanese Anemone known
as Queen Charlotte had been rather sparsely
planted, and between the plants the pink Mallow,
Lavatera rosea splendens, had been sown. Tlie
soft pink of the .Mallows harmonised perfectly with
the rose pink blooms of the Anemone, and created
a study in these shades that might well be emulated
in other places. We understand that the Mallows
were sown in the bed early in .\pril.

A Good Autumn Rock Plant. — One of the most
attraitive rock plants of recent introduction is
Corydalis Wilsonii. This beautiful Fumitory,
which is now a mass of flower, was discovered in
China by the well-known collector after whom it
is named. It is one of the best of the whole genus,
with its erect racemes of large, deep canary yellow
flowers, 7 inches to 8 inches in length, standing
above the elegantly-cut, glaucous green foliage. It
commences to flower early in the summer and
continues throughout the autumn and the early
part of the winter, providing the weather remains
mild. It appears to be quite hardy as regards cold,
but should be planted so that it gets some shelter
from an overhanging rock.

The Destruction of Wasps' Nests. — The

following note, culled from a dailj' paper, is of
interest and value at this season, as it gives a simple
and efficacious means of reducing the wasp pest :
" Having been connected with fruit cultivation
for thirty-eight years, I have found the most simple
and efficient way to destroy wasps' nests is by
using the following method : During the day
locate the nest and no'te if there is more than one
entrance to the same. Procure an ordinary wine
bottle and put in a pint or more of paraffin oil,
and as soon as it is dusk take a lantern, find the
hole, pour in the oil, and push the neck of the
bottle into the hole and leave it. There will not
be a wasp alive by the next night, all being destroyed
by the fumes. It is not often there are two
entrances ; if there are, block the top one up
securelv."

454

THE GARDEN.

[September 13, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

The Editor is not responsible tor the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

The Best White Bedding Rose.— Like Mi.

H. E. Mulyneiix (page 443), I shuuld unhesitatingly-
select Molly Sharman Crawford and Mrs. H.
Stevens as the best white bedders. My White
Killameys are simply bad from mildew, and I am
not going to harbour these, Mme. Jules Grolez,
Bessie Brown, and a few other notorious mildewers
among my main body of plants in future. I must
grow some, but they will be kept in a distant part
bv themselves, and probably go through the
" kill or cure " test. — A. P.

Campanula lanata in Ireland. — The accompany-
ing illustration, from a photograph kindly sent
us by Miss Stokes of Baily, Dublin, represents a
fine plant of the comparatively rare Campanula
lanata. The plant is 2 feet 6 inches
high and 3 feet i inch in diameter.
Miss Stokes says : " The plant was
raised from seed brought from
Bulgaria, and has lived two years
without protection, but this is the
first year it has bloomed. Other
plants raised from the same stock
of seed have pale pink flowers."

Musk Losing Its Scent. — May

I add another mstance of Musk

losing its scent to those already

sent by correspondents of The

Garden ? This is an old garden,

and the place was formerly the

residence of my grandmother, who

died in the early eighties. Before

that I know that the Musk which

grows all round the step of the

greenhouse had a delicious scent.

It seeds freely, and has established

itself in many odd corners ; but

since I came to live here ten years

ago it has never had any scent at

all, although I have examined it

carefully many times. — M. E.

CuRLE, Melrose.
A Veteran Cyclamen.— ."^s our

July corresponds with your Janu-
ary, I have just been reading The

Garden for January 18, in which

you mention a Cyclamen plant, the

age of which was twenty-five years.

I can easily beat you, for my friend,

Mr. John Enys of Enys, Cornwall,

in riding over the Holy Land,
dismounted to take up a plant of
Cyclamen. He afterwards came out here, where he
lived many years. At one time, on leaving to pay a
visit to England, he gave me the plant to take care
of, saying he had had it thirty years. I put it in
my greenhouse, where it bore seventy-two flowers
at once. On his return he said I could keep it.
but it only lived two or three years more. — Emma
T, Izard, Whanaka, Chrislclnirch, New Zealand.

The Midland Daffodil Society.— With regard
to the continuance of the heretofore annual dinner
of this society, referred to by Mr. Adams in your
last issue, kindly allow us to say that, although
when approached we agreed to subscribe to it, on
more mature consideration we are strongly of
opinion that it would be inopportune to hold the
dinner in 1914, while the calamity of our host's
death is still so fresh. The matter, however, is
scarcely suited for discussion in your columns, but

must be decided by the committee of the society. —
P.' D. Williams (President, Midland Daffodil
Society), G. H. En'Gleheart (ex- President).

Roscoea purpurea Flowering Outdoors in

Scotland. — One does not often see the distinct
Roscoea purpurea in the open in Scottish gardens,
but I came across a good plant in bloom the other
day in an Ayrshire garden. One cannot well
call it showy, but it is an interesting plant,
and one of the few of its class to be met with in
outdoor gardens. It will never find favour with
those who delight only in showy plants, but the
formation of the flowers is unlike that of most
border subjects, and the deep purple blooms
among the lanceolate leaves are attractive in their
way. I can count the Scottish gardens in which
I have met with it as a hardy flower on the fingers
of one hand, although one has seen it rather more
frequently in places where it was protected in
winter. A freely-drained, rather porous and sandy

A FINE PLANT OF A LITTLE-KNOWN BELLFLOWER, CAMPANULA
LANATA, IN A READER'S GARDEN IN IRELAND.

soil apparently suits it best, but it must not suffer
from t<io much drought in suininer. — S. Arnott.

Prepared Hyacinths to Flower at Christmas. —

1 promised in my article of August 9 to find out
about the necessary temperature in which these
must be grown to ensure their flowering at or before
Christmas. When I tried them last year they were
from a week to ten days earlier than ordinary
ones of the same variety unprepared ; but I liad
not flowers for Christmas. I do not wonder at it
now I Unow that they must have a temperature
of between 70° to 80° Fahr. in which to grow and
develop, whereas with me they certainly never had
over 65'^, and, as a rule, only between 50° to 60°.
Here, then, are the cultural directions in a nutshell :
Pot as early as possible — in August or up to Sep-
tember 15 at the latest. Treat as ordinary
Hvacinths, plunging them outside in a cool place

until rooted. Take them out about November 12
to 15. Put them at once in a dark, moist place
in a greenhouse, avoiding any bottom-heat, and
give them a temperature of between 70° and So°.
When the stems have grown and the flower-buds
are plainly visible on their pedicels, the plants
must be gradually exposed to the light. The
temperature must still be kept at from 70° to 80°;
in fact, it must not be altered until the flowers
are expanded, when it may be reduced somewhat
for a day or two before the pots are brought into
the dwelling-house or a cool conservatory.
L'Innocence, General Pelissier, Grande Blanche,
Gertrude and Marie are well suited for this
particular culture. The last two require a
rather longer period in the hothouse before they
will bloom than the first three. — Joseph Jacob.

A Good Dry-Soil Rose. — That splendid variety
Hugh Dickson has done remarkably well this
year in a very light, sandy soil. For several weeks
during July a large bed of plants
yielded grand blooms, and by the
second week in August commenced
to flower on young shoots which
were very strong. While many varie-
ties growing near them are now
badly mildew-ed, the plants of Hugh
Dickson referred to are quite free.
I have seen this Rose growing up
the branches of large shrubs and
trees in a garden just the same
as Hybrid Teas grow — unpruned
except for the thinning out of
weakly shoots. The flowers were
lovely, and there were plenty of
them. — G. G.

Rose Irish Elegance.— In your
issue of August 30 I have seen that
" A. B. Essex " would be pleased to
know the opinions of other readers
on Rose Irish Elegance. I had one
planted in December, 1910, here, on
the seaside, against a wall facing
west. Since the first year the plant
lias given me entire satisfaction, and
has been the admiration of all my
friends. Later on I purchased some
more, which have been planted in
other parts of my garden, and every-
where this variety has proved to be
a free-blooming Rose, bearing the
flowers since the beginning of .May
until almost the end of October. It
suft'ers a little from mildew, but with
a small quantity of sulphur it again
recovers good health. It seems to
me to be a good pillar Rose, and
my first plant is now more than two metres high.
— J. Nesouita, Praia de Granja.

" A. B. Essex," on page 430, asks for the

opinions of your readers as to the merits of this Rose
for the garden. If grown intelligently, there can only
be one answer to that question. Admitted that the
life of a full-blown flower does not exceed forty-eight
hours, yet it flowers so freely that my plants of it are
rarely without a bloom from May to November.
As a matter of curiosity, before sitting down to
write this note, I made a special journey to inspect
my plants. I have growing here the original
plant (I believe the first one to be planted outside
the nursery of the raisers). It is nine years old,
and is a bush 6 feet high and 4 feet through, carrying
at the moment seventy-five buds and flo^\■ers
with the promise of very many more. Of course,
that is an exceptional plant, but the Rose is one

Supplement to THE GARDEN, September i^/i, lyij

i

FIVE GOOD NEW
NARCISSI—

1. Ethelbert.

2. Florence Pearson

3. The Doctor.

4. Utopia.

5. Dream.

SEPTEMBER I3, I9I3.]

THE GARDEN.

456

that will do well in almost any situation. It
shaded from the smi (mine are planted mider a
6-foot fence and face due west), the colour will
remain in the flowers till the petals drop. The
contrast of the buds and flowers with the foliage,
its wonderful vigour of growth, its usefulness for
table decoration and the individual beauty of
its blooms all go to make it one of those Roses that
should be in every garden. The only possible
objection to it is that it is " only a single," and
that, I know, is a fatal one to many. For myself
I am inclined rather to the opposite view that for
pure beauty one must go to the single Rose to
find it, and of all single Roses Irish Elegance is
entitled to pride of place. Whether Irish Fire-
flame will presently depose it or not remains to
be seen. I am inclined to think that it will always
be difficult (and purely a matter of taste) to decide
between them, and the only solution will be to
grow them both. — Herbert E. Molyneux,
Southampton.

I read with interest the note by " A. B.

Essex " in The Garden of August 30 on Rose
Irish Elegance. It has flowered freely with me,
having started early in the year, and is still in
bloom and making nice growth. Everyone falls
in love with it. As my garden is only a few feet
square, the soil sandy loam, and faces north,
I think this speaks well for it. — R. F. L., Surrey.

In your issue of the 30th ult., " A. B.

Essex " asks, " Is Rose Irish Elegance free-
flowering ? " I have grown this Rose for four
years in my garden in Montgomeryshire (600 feet
above sea-level), and my answer is decidedly in
the affirmative. My only tree is very vigorous,
and now has a leading shoot of this year's growth
over six feet in height, crowned with eight buds
and two open flowers. The tree has at present about
twenty other flowers or buds. At the latter end
of June it bore at least as many as, or more than,
the present crop, and it had a period of rest lasting
about a fortnight. The tree stands in the face
of the south-west gales, which are very strong here,
and requires, therefore, to be well staked. This
has been truly a wonderful Rose year. There
has been very little trouble with green fly, but
the recent " muggy " weather, with heavy dews
at night, has brought on mildew, and I have had a
severe struggle to keep it in check. With so many
blooms on the trees it is impossible to syringe
them, and I have been obliged to resort to sponging
the leaves with a weak solution of formaldehyde,
dusting the worst affected leaves or stems with
flowers of sulphur afterwards. The Rambler
Roses have been particularly prolific. The masses
of bloom on Dorothy Perkins have been wonder-
ful.— Edward R. Picolmore.

— ■ — • Your correspondent " A. B. Essex "
asks in your issue of the 30th ult. the opinion of
other readers as to the merits of Rose Irish
Elegance, especially as to its being free-flowering
or the reverse. I can only say that in my garden,
and still more in that of a neighbour, where the
soil is better, it is almost, if not quite, the most
free-flowering Rose I know. It begins with the
earliest Roses, goes on with the latest, grows into
a fine bush, and is generally covered with bloom.
Its blooms are fugacious, that no one can deny,
but the extreme beauty of the buds, especially when
half open, quite makes up for that, I think.
Perhaps " A. B. Essex's " friends may have made
the mistake of pruning this Rose, which should
never be done after the first year. Only the dead
and weak wood should be cut out. — C. E. Logan
Elmslie. FarnJutm^ Surrey.

BEAUTIFUL BULBOUS
GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

THE NERINES.

THOUGH this beautiful genus of
.\marylhdae has been cultivated for
more than a century and is remarkably
free from many of the diseases and
difficulties which attend the cultivation
of many bulbous plants, it has received
very little attention, except from a few amateurs.
As I have made rather a speciaUty of Nerines
for over thirty years, and have been able to improve
them to a very great extent in variety of colour,
size and form of individual flowers and of the truss,
and especially in their freedom and regularity of
flowering, in which the old Nerine samiensis, com-
monly known as the Guernsey Lily, is so deficient,
I am able to give some hints on their cultivation
which may be useful to others.

The wild species of Nerine are all natives of
South Africa, but we know \^ery little of their
life-history or the conditions under which they
grow there. Herbert, in his admirable monograph,
describes the species and hybrids known seventy
years ago, since when no novelties of sterling merit
have been introduced, and it seems to me that
unless fresh blood can be discovered, we have nearly
reached the limit of possible improvement. A great
many of the names recognised as specific are, in
ray opinion, quite unworthy of such rank, and,
as all the species hybridise with more or less ease
in cultivation, we may reasonably suppose that
they have done so in Nature also. From time to
time so-called species or hybrids have been selected,
such as Planti, coruscans, atrosanguinea, Meadow-
banki, which were superior to samiensis, and
probably derive their improvement in a great
measure from Fothergilli, which remains the king
of the true species. But the immense variety of
colour which I have now obtained by intercrossing
hybrids, ranging from crimson through all shades
of mauve, pink and red to pure white, is so great
that they have almost attained the stage of florists'
flowers, and many of the seedlings which have been
named, in deference to the rules of the Royal
Horticultural Society's floral committee, are so near
each other that they require a specialist to dis-
tinguish and judge them, just as much as Narcissi do.
What is a Good Nerine ? — The standards of
merit which I reqxiire in a Nerine are, first, that the
six segments of the perianth shall be regular in shape
and position, as in Fothergilli, and not irregular
or narrow as in flexuosa and all the hybrids derived
from it, of which Manselli is one of the best and
one of the most fioriferous. For this reason I do
not look on Bowdeni, a recent introduction
which is superior in size to any except FothergiUi,
as a desirable parent of hybrids, though it may serve
to prolong the flowering season, which is an impor-
tjmt element in a collection of Nerines. Formerly,
September and October were the season of flowering
of all the older species, but now the latter half
of October is the time at which in normal seasons
I have the greatest show in my Nerine house.
Secondly, colour, which, whatever its shade,
ought to be clean, pure and sparkling with the
diamond-dust-like particles which make a Nerine
so beautiful in sunshine. All shades of pink,
cerise and scarlet are easy enough to get, but very
dark and very pale shades are not so common,
for though the crossing of pudica has produced
many of them, they are often deficient in size and
form. \ pure white Nerine of good shape has long

been my great object, for though I have heard of
white forms of Nerine in South .\frica, the only
one I was ever able to get until I raised Snowflake
was flexuosa alba. The delicate waving of the
edge of the petals, which is such a beautiful featurs
in Mrs. H. Elwes, Coimtess Bathurst, and others
of my raising, is a matter of taste, but adds much,
in my opinion, to the beauty. But no Nerine which
does not flower annually imder proper treatment
should be looked on as perfect, shy flowering being
the great defect of many of the older imported
forms, which often produce only two or three
spikes from a pot of ten or twelve full-sized bulbs ;
whereas all my best hybrids flower annually
and sometimes produce two spikes on a bulb.
One of the finest hybrids raised by Mr. Elliott
was Purple Prince, but it had the great defect of
flowering only at intervals of some years, though
many that I have raised from it as the male parent
are, under similar treatment, quite free bloomers.
Leichtlin's best hybrid Novelty was a first-rate
variety, though the flowers showed too much of
the irregularity of flexuosa, just as Manselli and
tardiflora do. Few, if any, of the numerous hybrids
which have been raised and named at Glasnevin
come up to ray standard. Mr. Godman is now
raising some nice hybrids, and Mrs. F. D. Godman,
which I raised ten years or more ago, is one of
the best colours of all. Miss Willmott is also a
beauty, but hardly distinct from some seedlings
of Meadowbanki.

The Cultivation of Nerines is simple enough
if a few leading points are attended to. First,
they require a position near the glass in a
cold, unshaded greenhouse, with plenty of air
during the growing season, when the ther-
mometer should never be allowed to fall to
freezing-point or to exceed 50" to 60° except
in full sunshine. Secondly, they must have
regular and liberal watering during the growing
season, the object being to develop as many sturdy,
fleshy leaves as possible on a hard, firm bulb.
This is best obtained by growing them in moderate-
sized, well-drained pots, in which the bulbs are
about half covered with good, light, but not too
sandy loam, and feeding them when the pots are
full of roots, with soot-water or weak liquid manure.
As soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow, in April
and May, water must be discontinued, and as soon
as the leaves have quite withered, the pots may
be turned out into a cold frame, where they must
be kept dry till the spikes begin to show in Sep-
tember or October. It is well to stand the pot
in a pan of water when growth commences, in order
to moisten the dry soil thoroughly from below.
Any offsets can be taken off when repotting is
done in August, and though the bulbs will continue
to flower for many years without repotting, I
find it best to do so about once in three years,
as, if left too long, the offsets low down in the pot
force the older bulbs in the centre right out of the
soil and do not flower simultaneously with them.

Seed Should be Sown when ripe, and the yoimg
seedlings kept in a warmer house for two years at
least without resting or drying them off. Under
this treatment they will flower in much less time
than if kept in the same house and ripened off
with their parents. Mealy bug is the only insect
pest which has ever troubled me, and when its
presence is detected by the pale spots on the young
leaves, the bulbs must be thoroughly cleaned
with some insecticide, as in the resting season
these insects often get down to the bottom of the
pot among the roots. If once this pest is allowed

456

THE GARDEN.

[September 13, 1913

to spread, it becomes very troublesome, and any
plants which show traces of it should be kept in
quarantine and examined carefully at short inter-
vals. If any bulbs become soft or rotten, which
may be due to overwatering or want of light and
air, they should be turned out of the pot at once
and destroyed ; but this rarely happens unless
they are grossly neglected. For dinner-table
decoration in the autumn I know of few, if any,
plants which surpass Nerines, because their colours
show up so well under a strong light, and a variety
of different shades make the effect much better
than when only one kmd is grown. In the warmest
parts of England Nerines may be grown fairly
well in a cold frame all the year round, but
in my experience better in pots than planted
out, as I have never seen them in perfection so
treated. H. J. Elwes.

TULIPS IN GRASS.

M

request for information on this sub-
ject, which the Editor so kindly
inserted in the issue of April rg, has
brought a good many interest-
ing replies, including two from
America and one from Germany.
What follows is a sort of " resurrection pie " made
from their ingredients.

The experiences recounted by the writers are
various. From them, however, one or two facts
may be gleaned. First, that the flowers from bulbs
left in grass are much smaller than those from lifted
or cultivated ones. Secondly, that the continuation
of their blooming more than two, or possibly three,
years depends upon the soil. Either a good rich
compost must be made and introduced under the
sod to plant them in, or an annual top-dressing
must be given, or the land must be naturally
suited for Tulips. Thirdly, that if there is a con-
tinuation of blooming at all, it is not the monopoly
of any one particular type, for earlies such as
Cottage Maid and Thomas Moore seem to be just
as amenable to this method of growing them as
are gesneriana spathulata, retroflexa, fulgens and
sylvestris, neither more nor less.

The majority of letters reported an experience
like my own. Thri blooms become smaller and
fewer, and after the second year there are none at
all. An American lady writes : " My experience is
precisely yours. I cannot get more than one crop
from Tulips grown in grass, though they are magni-
ficent in beds, and I have given up in despair. . . .
In 1911 I planted forty bulbs in grass just to see.
I saw forty single leaves yesterday."

A Scotch writer says : "I have not tried a great
number, but most of them behave as stated in the
note. The exception with me has been T. retro-
flexa, which still gives a few flowers after nine or
ten years, and it flowered regularly for five or six
years." Mrs. Francis King (America) records her
experience thus : " I have had for years a pretty
planting of Vermilion Brilliant under Apple trees,
but each year I must replant, or very little happens."
A gentleman from Henbury planted a dozen
large clumps three and a-half years ago, and " they
show no sign of going off." Then came the post-
script, " / ought to add that a good bed was made to
plant the Tulips in. If planted through the turf
I expect there would be failures."

At Lockinge (Wantage) much the same prepara-
tion was made two years ago, but, instead of being
sodded, " the beds were sown with grass after the
Tulips were planted ; in fact, when they were

through the ground." These two instances seem to
prove that it is possible to have a brave show of
Tulips in grass for a certain number of years if
pains are taken to give the bulbs a well-prepared
and fairly rich rooting medium at the time they are
planted.

A most interesting communication came from
Sir A. B. Hepburn, who ten to thirteen years ago
planted in his park at Smeaton-Hepburn in East
Lothian " a lot of common garden Tulips among
the grass on the side of a walk. Most (he says)
have, I think, survived, though how many I put
in originally I cannot say. Be that as it may, there
are quite a lot, and they come up regularly every
year — white, red, yellow — sadly reduced in size,
but still making pleasing dots and patches of
colour." In answer to my query about soil, the
same gentleman was kind enough to send me a
second letter, in which was this passage : " As to
soils, I have them in heavy and in light loam.
There is a good deal of felspar in the soil. The sub-
soil is boulder clay." He remarks that it " holds
moisture most of the year."

A cutting from an American paper records how
27,000 early bedding Tulips were planted five
years ago at Kansas City, Mo., " in holes made
with a pointed spade-handle three inches under the
sod. . . . To-day these Tulips are flowering
almost as good as they did the first year." These
and some similar instances, which space forbids
me to quote, seem to show that there are a few
lucky people who have soil which naturally suits
Tulips, and in which, if the leaves are left to die
down naturally, they continue to bloom for a certain
number of years.

Of more than ordinary interest is the example
from Dundalk of Tulips in grass perfecting their
seeds and giving rise to a few self-sown seedlings.
The writer states : " Those on the level have died
out, but a few bloom each year on a mound about
three yards high. The grass on this is very poor.
Some have appeared from seed a few yards away
in grass under small trees." I wonder what the
sod is like in those centres at Aix, Florence and
elsewhere, from which new neo-Tulips (Mauriana,
Billietiana, Marjoletti, &c.) are from time to time
collected. Should this meet the eye of anyone
who personally knows those spots, it would be nice
of them if they would tell us in the Correspondence
columns of The Garden what sort of herbage is to
be found there. Summing all up, it appears that,
under normal conditions, TuUps, when planted in
grass, get beautifully less and less in quantity
and smaller and smaller in size ; only in a few
favoured spots do they continue to bloom for any
length of time. It is, however, possible to so
ameliorate the rooting medium in which they are
placed that they will give a good many years of
bloom. Possibly species or varieties immediately
descended from species " do " rather better than
other kinds. Joseph Jacob.

BULB LISTS.

A CHARMING CROCUS FOR THE
ROCK GARDEN.

.\lthough there are a number of Crocus species
well adapted for growing in the rock garden, I
have not found one to surpass in beauty and interest
that known as Sieberi. It is one of the earliest
to flower in the New Year, and if given a sunny
nook the pale lavender blue flowers will open and
reveal the beautiful orange scarlet stigmata. In
common with other Crocuses, it needs planting
in groups of not fewer than a dozen corms if a good
effect is to be obtained. A B, Essex.

bedtime when one is reading a good
book or the dressing-gong on a summer's
evening, the bulb lists catch one un-
ready, in the height of enjoyment of
well-filled summer borders. Yet if
one does not grapple with them at once
and send off the resulting orders early, two evils
are sure to accrue — someone who is more prompt
in ordering gets the best bulbs, and even the fairly
good ones we do get later on are not improved
by having been kept out of the ground. Yet,
however much we realise all that, it is not easy
to bring on an attack of the bulb-planting fever
when one's borders look so full and it is hard to
think out space for planting. I have tried to make
a stern rule for myself that I will not order any
plants I have not fixed on a suitable site for ; but
I break it whenever I see something I feel I cannot
live longer without, or when I get certain of the
more tempting bulb lists. How can I resist a
Darwin Tulip that is new to me and described
as glowing salmon or tender lilac ? It is enough
to make one hope something will die and leave
a gap to be filled,

I try each season to plant a fresh colony of certain
Snowdrops. They flower so early, often in Decem-
ber if one gets collected bulbs planted before
September has brought death to a partridge.
Galanthus byzantinus is one of my favourites for
this purpose, and any of the forms of Elwesii are
worth the same early-to-bed treatment. Not
only do they flower before their relations in older
plantings, but these early-planted ones settle
down and do much better than those that have
been kept out o' the ground. I believe it is the
secret of success in planting Snowdrops, Anemones
of the nemorosa, blanda and apennina races.
Winter Aconite, Crown Imperials, Erythroniums
and, of course, Narcissi, to order them as early
as possible ana plant them at once, or sooner
if possible, as the Irishman said, after their arrival.
Of newer plants that I have tried lately I can
fully recommend the new race of bulbous Irises
called Dutch Irises. They are larger and earlier
than Spanish Irises, and some I left unlifted for
three years in a warm south border have increased
wonderfully and flowered well each year. Some
I cut rather freely, with long stems, have not made
such good bulbs as those icft uncut, but how I
did enjoy the vases fall of them ! Some of them
show distinct traces of I. tingita'Da as a parent,
and are almost as lovely as that wayward, shy-
flowering beauty. They ' originated in Messrs.
Van Tubergen's nursery in Haarlem, but will,
I expect, soon be in every other. I was greatly
pleased, too, with Cyclamen repandum roseum,
from the same firm, a free-flowering spring Cydamea
of a soft shade of rose. Crocus vernus Margot
is another thing I try to find room for an additional
big clump of each year. Its soft lilac is charming.
Colchicum speciosum album is now to be bought
for 6d., and, being one of the loveliest of all bulbous
plants, should be in every garden ; but if you
want it to thrive, catch the next post and send an
order to Messrs. Backhouse for it. They raised it
from a single bulb that appeared in their nursery,
and for some years after I first saw it there it was
only possible for millionaires to think of purchasing
it. I find it one of the consolations for growing
old that sixpence can now be changed for this
white flower of the autumn.

Scilla nutans delicata, a wild Hyacinth, pearly
white, with tender blue shading and a long, drooping

September 13, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

457

head of flowers, is worth keeping a semi-shady
corner for ; and if you can find two such comers,
plant a clump of its brother, S. n. Robin Hood, a
rosy, coral-tipped form, in the second one.

If you do not know those two grand old Tazettas,
Polyanthus Narcissus Bazelman major and Muzart
orientalis, you should try them, and they will
give you a thrill I promise you, planted in some
warm south border. Do not forget Tulipa Kauf-
manniana for a sunny spot, planted at least 6 inches
deep, if you want to be reminded of Water Lilies
in April, or T. Sprengeri if you wish to prolong
your Tulip season into the first days of June.
Its brilliant scarlet is only ecUpsed by Habranthus
pratensis, which you must also order if you have
a cosy empty corner in front of some greenhouse
where the pipes inside help the warmth-lovers out-
side. Of plants not bulbous as to their root systems.

is very distinct, having drooping flowers that
remain tubular. There is also a white form of
it that is a good companion to the other. I think
the plants I have named would be worth adding
to any collection. The bill for them need not
be a ruinous one, and as they should all settle
down and improve year by year, it would be money
better spent than on the one-year show to be
derived from many of the early Tulips and bedding
Hyacinths, beyond which the minds of many
gardeners refuse to go when making out the autumn
bulb list. E. .•\. Bowles.

MAY-FLOWERING TULIPS UNDER
YOUNG APPLE TREES.

The accompanying illustration depicts a method
of growing Darwin and other May-flowering

might be made of them for indoor decoration.
We like to have them loosely arranged in large,
old-fashioned bowls or vases of soft colour, and so
far have found nothing to equal those made in
Cornwall of the same material as the famous
Cornish pitchers. Whether planted in large masses
of one colour, or as a mixture, these May-flowering
Tulips never appear incongruous. When sending us
the photograph, Messrs. Wallace wrote : " Ama-
teurs would be surprised at the beautiful
effects to be obtained from bold plantings of
Tulips under orchard trees, as shown in the
accompanying illustration. The bulbs are pro-
tected to a considerable degree from their worst
enemies, late frosts, cutting winds and heavy rains,
and the flowers themselves develop more steadily
and last longer, thanks to the thin shade cast by
the trees. It is not easy to produce an ugly mixture

A BEAUTIFUL GROUPING OF MAY-FLOWERING TULIPS UNDER YOUNG APPLE TREES.

but for autumn ordering, are two out-of-the-way
things that add interest as well as beauty to the
garden. First, the dazzling scarlet wild Ranun-
culus of Palestine, R. asiaticus, often listed as
Single Scarlet, is a grand thing. I think it prefers
a light soil, but some well-rotted cowyard manure
dug in for the roots to go dow'n and find, and the
tubers should be lifted and stored away dry as soon
as the leaves die ofl.

Agapanthus intermedins is a better thing in
hardy blue African Lilies than the older A. minor
mooreanus, and if a little mound of ashes is placed
over the clump in bad winters, should prove
quite hardy in a south border. A. WeUighii is
also hardy enough for the same treatment, and

Tulips that has a great deal to commend it, but
which, so far, has not been extensively adopted.
In the gardens at HaUingbury, near Bishop's
Stortford, which we hope to illustrate and describe
in some subsequent issue, large quantities are
very effectively grouped under young Apple trees,
the flowers of which are open at the same time
as those of the Tulips. The illustration which we
publish herewith represents Tulips under young
Apple trees in Messrs. R. Wallace and Co.'s nursery
at Colchester, and gives an excellent idea of what
might be done in many newly-planted orchards.
When grown m this way there is always an
abundance of long-stemmed, stately flowers for
cutting, and as these last well in water, more use

of Darwins, and sometimes a chance planting
gives unexpected pleasure in a fine contrast or
harmony of colour. The lavender of Remembrance,
for example, is very fine with the rose pink of
Suzon. The soft pinks also go finely with the
blackish maroons and dark purples, although,
of course, the yellows from ViteUina and other
May-flowering varieties give stronger contrasts
with these blacks, crimsons and purples. Our
beds are 4 feet wide, and each variety is repre-
sented by several hundred bulbs. Imagine 100
or 200 varieties representing as many different
shades all flowering at one time, and your readers
can appreciate the glorious riot of colour which is
created in April and May."

458

THE GARDEN.

[September 13, 1913.

POETAZ NARCISSI.

A'

LTHOUGH wonderful progress has been
made in the world of Daffodils
during the past ten or fifteen
years, there has been no more im-
portant or, far-reaching break than
that obtained by the Rev. G. H.
Engleheart when he successfully crossed Poeticus
ornatus with the best forms of Narcissus Tazetta,
of which Paper White and Grand Monarque
are, perhaps, the best-known examples. The
result of this cross was an important race of Narcissi
with the hardiness and fragrance of ornatus and
the free-flowering properties of the Tazetta type.
The size and even contour of ornatus were also
transmitted to the hybrids, so that in such varieties
as Aspasia, an illustration of which is reproduced
herewith, we get a number of flowers almost as
large, perfect and fragrant as those of ornatus
on one stem. The effect produced by a well-

THE DAFFODIL FLY.

(Merodon equestris.)

S'

INCE writing the article published in
The Garden of April 26, 1913, I have
continued the study of Merodon equestris
and gained considerably in knowledge
and experience of it. It has appeared
iu greater numbers this year, and I
have literally been " surrounded by a host of
foes."

The Larva. — We are apt to charge the fly with
aggressiveness, whereas it is the larva which is
so destructive. The latter, in the preparation of
its domicile, excavates its way into the Daffodil
bulb, and this excavation is its dining-room,
drawing-room, dormitory, scullery, &c. There in
wanton selfishness it devours and destroys the
very fabric in which it dwells. Its gluttony is
insatiable; it is. a recluse, receiving no visitors
and holding no intercourse with its relations or

k^*il&&l'^JrM^i'

U^-~

f.2a:iM^

NARCISSUS ASPASIA, A BEAUTIFUL POETAZ VARIETY, IN A SURREY GARDEN.

grown group of these is well shown in the illustra-
tion, which is from a photograph taken in Mr.
W. A. Bilney's garden at Weybridge. In addition
to their value for garden decoration, these Poetaz
Narcissi, as the race is appropriately called, are
admirable for growing in pots or bowls of fibre,
while . for cutting they are ideal. Fortunately,
most of them are good growers, and bulbs of
Aspasia and Elvira can be obtained for about
IS. 6d. per dozen. A newer and very handsome
variety is Jaune a Merveiile, wliich has a large,
broad perianth of soft primrose colour, the yellow
cup or eye being thinly edged with orange. As
yet it is rather expensive. In addition to Aspasia
and Elvira, both of which have white perianths
and yellow cups, there are Ideal, white, with orange
cup; Irene, pale primrose and golden yellow cup ;
Klondyke, yellow perianth and eye ; and Triumph,
white, with yellow cup. For the amateur who
has not yet tried this excellent race, Aspasia and
Elvira are excellent. B. A.

neighbours. To it time is a meaningless term, and
for nearly two years it awaits its metamorphosis,
filled to repletion. In the article referred to I
mentioned two grubs foimd, one in April and one
in May. I collected others later on and kept a
sort of menagerie, repeatedly examining and
inspecting them under the microscope. They
were constantly overhauled, drawings made of
them in repose, travelling, turning over, &c.,
and in this manner I obtained many refreshing
surprises in a most interesting study. The organism
of Merodon equestris is wonderfully adapted to
its peculiar life. I discovered that the larva
has two eyes ; mandibles, by which it does all its
excavating, and which form the basis of its powers
of locomotion ; and a very flexible top lip, at the
sides of which are a pair of feelers, which it runs
over the surface of its path. The fore part of its
body is very mobile, and can be stretched out
to a great extent. With its mandibles it grips
the surface on which it lies and hauls itself forward ;

then stretches out its neck again for a fresh grip.
The mandibles are used in the same way as a sailor
uses a kedge to warp his vessel along.

The Chrysalis.— After the New Year has made
its appearance, the more mature larvae make pre-
paration for their change to the chrysaUs state.
First a slight discoloration appears, which gradually
spreads over the whole surface of the body. While
this is taking place, the grub works up uato the
neck of the bulb, and sometimes, after remaining
in this position a short time, rises into the soil
above, and stays there until its change is com-
pleted. The outer skin now hardens and a homy
case is formed, and, following a further period of
waiting, two short horns rise from the head. I
have not discovered the purpose of these horns,
but they have the appearance of projected eyes.
This stage of transition depends in a great measure
upon the weather, but occupies about eight weeks.
The Fly. — When the time to change from the
chrysalis state arrives, the living creature bursts
away two sections of its outer skin
and emerges a perfect fly. This is
Nature's provision for the propa-
gation of future generations. There
remain the two sections of the
shell. On one of these are the two
horns, in the other the cocoon, which
was the creature's protection against
chills during its metamorphosis. The
year 1911 was very warm, and, con-
sequently, the insect world was most
active in propagation. As the year
advanced, having found the two
year larval period, I prophesied that
1913 would be a revelation in fly
increase, and this proved to be the
case. So numerous did the fly be-
come during the current year that
it attracted the notice of people who
had previously been strangers to its
existence, and I had enquiries
from, and was called to identify
it in, places where it had never
been noticed before. Questions
have been put as to the reasons of
its visits and where it comes from ;
but it is a perplexing subject,
and I am compelled to admit my
inability to give a satisfactory
answer. I myself could ask a
score of questions, such as, Does
it migrate when the locality be-
comes over-populated, like rats,
mice and rabbits ? I have found the fly this year
in lanes, feeding on wild Hemlock ; in the neighbour-
hood of houses, in railway stations, in fields, on
grass, &c. The subject is engaging the attention
of members of Daffodil societies at their conven-
tions ; but while they are talking, the fly is propa-
gating, bulbs are dyjig, and growers are suffering.
Meanwhile X wage, constant war, give no quarter,
lose no opportuniiy of doing what I can for its
destruction, and rest not from the pursuit. At
the same time I am extending my observations.
Early this year I discovered the flies' forage ground.
Their needs are farina and nectar, which are found
in flowers, and where there are masses of flowers
there will the fly be found. At a bed of yellow
Marguerites, while they continued in bloom, I
watched. The enemy came, but never returned
after I invented and used a smaller net to work
inside the one mentioned in my previous article.
I had no hunting, no chasing ; they came in such
numbers that I killed as many as sixty-two in

September 13, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

459

one day nf three hours' work. I saw one on a
flower, got it between the nets, quickly shut them
together, and the fly was a captive. I noticed
that prior to June 12 the flies, like the ante-
diluvians, seemed to have no object in life but to
play at " catch who can," " hide and seek," and
" eat and drink." After that date they became
amorous, and love scenes were daily witnessed.
Scotch law was prevalent, and before two or more
witnesses the ceremony was perfected, while the
song of joy and the hum of contentment filled
the air. Before long my garden was literally cleared
of them ; but subsequently, at two periods with
about a fortnight's interval, I was visited by
six females, each seeking a home for their expected
families. In killing these I was
careful to find out whether the
eggs were matured. Only one was
ready for laying ; in the others
the eggs were not matured.

The marvellous construction of
Merodon equestris is evidence of
the supreme wisdom of the
Omnipotent Mind. I made careful
investigation and found the fly
has three eyes, or ocelli, in a tri-
angle at the back of its head,
which are useful in cases where
.iTi enemy approaches while it is
III a flower. Bees have these
ocelli, and it was a revelation to
me to find them in the Merodon.
The size of the ocelli varies a
little in the se.xes, those of the
female being slightly largei, and
dearer from short hairs as a rule.
The sexes always vary in size and
markings, according to age. The
male develops more of a foxy
-ippearance, while the female ex-
hibits more grey about the pos-
terior. The female, too, at full
maturity is one-eighth of an inch
longer than a fuUy-matu'ed male.
I found a difference in the femur,
or thigh portion, of their hind
legs. That of the male has three
liorny projections, while that of
the female is quite smooth, and if
a fly is held in the hand it is
possible to tell the sex by the
way it irritates the skin. Both
male and female have a homy-
substance on the back at the
waist, under which is an air-
ihamber, while their wings are
lengthened at the base by a
mechanical arrangement, the edges
of which are fringed with black
hairs curving gently downwards
and inwards. I reason from this that
the air entermg and leaving the chamber produces 1
the whistling, humming sound one hears as the
fly rushes through the air, and that its purpose
is to intimate its whereabouts to its kind.

I have spent an enormous amount of time on my
investigations relative to Merodon equestris, and
The Garden readers have now almost as much I
information of it as I myself possess. Read my
previous article in conjunction with this, and we
have a great advance in our knowledge. It is,
of course, unnecessary for me to say anything in
regard to the destruction of the larvae, but I strongly I
press the necessity of the destruction of the fly. We |
are yearly reminded in the spring of the desirability '

of killing queen wasps, and so reducing the number
of nests ; but to Daffodil-growers the destruction
of Merodon equestris is equally important, as every
female fly destroyed prevents the deposit of from
fifty to sixty eggs, which would ruin a similar
number of bulbs ; and I call upon every grower
to act. Remember the foe is at the gate, and can
only be vanquished by prompt and earnest attack.
The plan I recommend is the use of two nets as
mentioned ; this is a wonderfully successful method
of catching the fly. I ask any reader finding
small larvae up to the time of planting to send me
a few. May I remind readers that this is the time
to look for them. Seasonable precautions just now
are ; Rake over your beds, leave no holes for the

was dead. Has any reader tested this cold water
bath ? In the case I refer to, the bulbs were in
water forty-eight hours. The larva which left the
bulb subsequently died, but the other two show no
sign of suffering. George St. Ox.

A DAINTY DAFFODIL.

(Narcissus tria.vdrus calathinus.)
The little Daffodil named Angel's Tears is widely
known by virtue of its grace and beauty, but its
close relation which forms the subject of this note
is not so well known as it deserves. It grows to
a height of about seven inches, and is one of the
most beautiful little Daffodils in existence. It
is useful alike for growing in pots
or for filling a sheltered pocket in
the rock garden. A well-drained,
gritty soil and a half-shady posi-
tion seem to suit it best ; but
if the bulbs do not flower the
first year after planting, they
should be left undisturbed to
establish themselves. There is a
touch of interest concerning the
native habitat of this variety. It
was found on one of the Glenan
Isles some years ago by that,
assiduous collector of Daffodils, the
late Mr. Peter Barr. The collect-
ing, it is said, was attended with
a good deal of risk, but the most
unfortunate part is that this gem
is no longer to be found there, the
sea having washed away all trace
of it. Happily, there is a fair
stock in cultivation, and it may be
successfully raised from seed.

WEEDI NG OUT
WEAK-GROWING
DAFFODILS.

N

NARCISSUS

TRIANDRUS CALATHIXUb, A BliAUIIFUL VARIETY FOR
POTS OR THE ROCK GARDEN.

females to get down to the bulbs. When buying,
press your thumb against each bulb and refuse all
soft ones. On Saturday, August 9. at 10 a.m.,
I placed five suspicious bulbs in water as a test.
They remained there until ro a.m. on the nth,
when I took them out. I found two bulbs good
and three affected. In one case the larva had
left the bulb and was alive at the bottom of the
vessel ; the other two were inside the bulbs,
which were cut open. They were completely
saturated, alive, and no worse for their bath.
I put all three into a small jar with a bulb, and at
10 a.m. on .August 13th one had worked its way
partly into the bulb, one was quite well, and one

(IW that we have such

an enormous number of

really good Daffodils, I

think it is high time

that a good many of

the poor doers were

dune away with. I do not object

to the common old things such as

Princeps, Cynosure and many

others ; no doubt they have long

since been eclipsed by better ones

on the same lines ; but, after all,

they are good in their way, and

are, at any rate, very cheap.

It is some of the newer and
more expensive varieties which,
I think, shoidd be dropped ; they may have
pretty flowers, but the plants are so weak
in constitution that not one in a dozen growers
can do them well, and we may be sure that any good
blooms we see at the shows have been culled from
among a large number of poor, deformed or under-
sized flowers which were not good enough for table
decoration, to say nothing of the show stand.
Circlet, Egret and Cresset are just three which
come to my mind. All these — and there are heaps
more, one might add — bear pretty flowers when
really well grown ; but they have very poor con-
stitutions, never make half enough leafage, and
frequent blanks are to be seen in the rows.

460

THE GARDEN.

[September 13, 1913.

Of Poets there are legions ; but how many make
really strong growth and a good shapely bulb ?
Six or eight Poets would be ample for garden pur-
poses if one could be sure of them all being good
doers. I have made up my mind to gradually
weed out all Daffodils of poor constitution, and if
all growers would do the same, it would really be
doing good work. It would be well if novelty-
raisers would always keep in mind this question
of constitution, and only work with good,
strong-growing parents. By seeding varieties of
weakly habit of growth, they have given
us in the past many beautiful flowers, but
plants which only one man in ten can grow.

Princess Mary has given num-
bers of good exhibition flowers,
also numbers of things which
will have to go to the rubbish
heap sooner or later, because
they take too much after their
mother in the matter of poor
health. I know there is another
side to the question. A raiser
may produce a new variety which
is a really good plant on his
ground, but which refuses to
grow with the man he sells it
to. That is no fault of the
raiser, but bad luck for the
buyer. Still, I would again urge
upon hybridists the necessity
for choosing healthy varieties
upon which to make their crosses.
With the great array of really
good things in the Daffodil world
already in existence, it is a
pity to add anything which is
not good all round ; flower,
length of stalk (some of my olc
friends will smile here) and
habit of growth should all be
good, or the new-comer should
be relegated to the bonfire or
the wild garden,

J. Duncan Pearson.

The Nurseries. Lowaham. Noiix.

THE CROWN OR POPPY
ANEMONE.

.\nemone coronaria.)
ONE of the many Anemones, or Wind-
flowers, which adorn our gardens can
hope to surpass in glorious colouring
or in true value the beautiful Crown
or Poppy Anemones, varieties of the
Eastern A. coronaria. It has long
held a high place in public favour, and those who
are acquainted with the horticultural literature of
the middle of the last century are well acquainted
with the keen pleasure taken by the old florists in

N'

NARCISSUS BRIGHTEYE,

NARCISSUS BRIGHTEYE.

This beautiful Narcissus, which
was so well shown by Robert
Sydenham, Limited, on several
occasions last year, belongs to
the Poeticus section, and, as its
name implies, has a particularly
bright yellow eye, with bright
orange edging. The petals are
broad and of good substance,
overlapping well, so as to form
a symmetrical flower of great
beauty. It measures 3^ inches
m diameter. This variety, in common with the cultivation of their named double varieties of
many other excellent new sorts, was raised by this Crown Anemone. Nowadays, though these
the Rev. G. H. Engleheart. As Mr. Pearson , are still obtainable, the popular taste lies in the
pomts out in the foregoing article, there seems to ' single Anemones or in the semi-double flowers, so
be far too many of these Poeticus varieties, some grandly represented bv the St. Brigid varieties,
of which are too much ahke, yet it is difficult to which in brilliancy and in intrinsic worth for garden
see what can be done when raisers continue decoration or for cuttmg are not surpassed. Much
to give us so many good ones. Perhaps Mr. might be written on the history of the Crown
who has done yeoman .Anemone and its developments ; but the scope of
s of the " Poets," will this article will not permit of this, as it is intended
opinion on the subject. The to be strictly cultural, so as to afford some in-

A NEW POETICUS VARIETY OF GREAT
PROMISE.

F. Herbert Chapman,

service in the interest

let us have his

illustration depicts a fine vase of Brighteye as formation for" the beginner in its culture

shown by .Messrs. Sydenham in London last

year.

Raising from Seeds. — Raising from seeds is a
cheap and pleasant method of securing a stock of

Anemone coronaria tubers, although the work is a
little troublesome. It is not, however, slow, as
seeds sown in summer, as soon as ripe, will give
flowering plants next summer, and those sown in
early spring will give blooming tubers in the same
autumn. In saving seeds, these should be taken
only from blooms of the best forms and colours
these being marked and the others not allowed to
seed. The beds should be gone over daily, as if
left the awned seeds will be scattered by the wind.
As soon as the seeds can be detached without any
pulling, they can be taken and spread on a sheet
of paper in a sunny window or greenhouse for a
day or two before sowing. If sown in the open, a
bed should be made up of loam, leaf-
soil and sand ; but loam and sand
will do. It must be light, fine, and
well drained. Little drills about a
quarter of an inch deep should be
drawn and the seeds sown in these.
As they are very woolly they are
difiicult to separate, and this can
best be done by mixing them and
rubbing them with dry sand or fine
loam, sowing them thinly in the
drills and covering with about a
quarter of an inch of fine soil. If
the weather is dry, the bed should
be watered and shaded until ger-
mination takes place, which will be
in a week or so. When the plants
have made a pair of their rough or
true leaves, they should be pricked
out in similar soil about two inches
apart and grown on. Seeds may
also be sown in pots or boxes, and
the seedlings treated in a similar
way to those in the open. They
may either be allowed to flower
where they stand or lifted when
they go to rest and replanted in
their flowering quarters.

The Best Positions. — If the best

flowers are desired, the beds should
be in a place where they are par-
tially shaded, and the finest I have
ever seen were partially shaded by
Apple trees. The soil should be well
dug and manured with old manure,
preferably that from the cowshed,
this being put beneath, but not
touching the tubers, which may be
planted 2 inches deep. If the posi-
tion is not ready for the tubers when
they are dried off, they may be
stored in paper bags in a cool place
beyond the reach of frost, or in
dry sand. Tubers which have been
purchased can be treated in the
same way. Choice varieties can be
propagated by division of the
tubers when at rest, but seedlmgs give the finest
blooms, as a rule.

Time to Plant.— The best time for planting is
from September to the end of October in warm,
light soils ; but in heavy, damp ones it is wiser to
leave this until February or March. By later
plantings the season may be considerably pro-
longed, and by sowing seeds in early spring in a
frame it is possible to have flowers throughout
a mild winter by keeping the young plants under
glass. The writer has sown seeds in a cold frame in
March and has had flowers from October onwards.
The St. Brigid varieties are the best for this purpose.
A rich but light and well-drained soil is essential

September 13, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

461

to really successful cultivation of the Crown
Anemone. When the leaves have withered, the
tubers are best lifted and stored either in bags, as
previously mentioned, or in dry sand, which is
better. Some experience difficulty in discerning
the top of the tubers, %vhich should be placed
uppermost. These are generally marked by little
knobs or protuberances whence the growths spring,
but it is generally easy to discover a few of the old
roots which have remained on the tubers, and this
part should be placed downwards. Where there is
any doubt, however, it is safer to plant the tubers
sideways.

The double varieties are not now much in request,
and they are neither so useful for garden decora-
tion nor for cutting, although very handsome with

NATURALISING DAFFODILS IN
GRASS.

With the advent of autumn rains comes the season
for planting Daffodils in grass. This is beyond
doubt the most beautiful way of growing Daffodils,
as the flowers are never seen to greater advantage
than when planted in large breaks through an
open woodland or in drifts on grassy slopes. It
is necessary that the groups should be of irregular
outline, with a few scattered here and there to
make the grouping as informal and as natural as
possible. The illustration on this page gives an
excellent idea of the kind of grouping that is de-
sirable. The best effects are produced by planting
one variety by itself, such, for instance, as the
fine display of Emperor seen in the illustration

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATE 1476.

SOME GOOD NEW DAFFODILS.

WITH the exception of Utopia, or,
as it is now called. Discus,
these flowers were all exhibited
at the Royal Horticultural
Society's Forced Bulb Show on
March i8 of the present year.
They have no particular connection with one
another beyond the fact that they are all first-class
flowers in their respective classes. Dream, which
is a rather small-sized white Ajax (3i inches by
I J inches bv i inch), is a Dutch seedling, which

D.\FFODILS N.\TUR.\LISED TN GRASS IN AN OLD ORCHARD IN CUMBERLAND.

their almost ball-like heads of bloom. More valu-
able are the double Chrysanthemum-flowered
varieties, which have narrower petals and are more
graceful. The ordinary single varieties are very
pretty with their cup-like blooms of the most
varied colouring ; but the most valuable of all
are the St. Brigid Anemones, which are not
only very robust, but are of the most glorious
colours and are generally semi-double. Some
splendid strains of the St. Brigid Anemone are in
cultivation. It only remains to be added that the
colours are most varied. They range from purest
white, through blush, rose, pink and scarlet, and
from almost lilac to deep blue. For bedding
purposes, separate colours can be procured.
Dumfries. S. Arnott.

on page 462. Although some varieties mix well
together, the different types do not enter into
perfect harmony with one. another. Thus the
Poets and the trumpets, or the Star Narcissi
and Poets, should not be intermingled at planting-
time. Among the best varieties for naturalising
in grassland or meadows we would place Emperor,
Empress, Golden Spur and Horsfieldii as four of
the very best. Henry Irving. Queen of Spain
and all varieties of Poeticus are specially suitable
for woodlands and orchards, also pallidus praecox
in those districts where it is known to succeed.
Barri conspicuus and the old Double Yellow
(Telamonius plenus) are both deserving of extended
planting in parkland and meadows. All Daffodils,
however, may be planted in grass. C. H.

I imagine was " spotted " as a " good thing "
by Mr. Leak some few years ago, for I think I am
right in saying that Messrs. Bath have now a nice
little stock of it and are ready to supply any orders
they may get. It is a drooping flower with a
somewhat straight and very refined-looking trumpet,
and should make an excellent pot plant. You
know, I have a great idea of the value of Daffodils
for pots, and those readers who buy the Royal
Horticultural Society's Year Book will see that
my opinion is there supported by a very weighty
authority, who shares my belief that for this purpose
Daffodils have a " great future " before them. In
my part of the world we do not get any blooms
in the open until April is well in. March, however,
is no longer a non-Daffodil month, for I have a

462

THE GARDEN.

[September 13, 1913

succession of choice varieties indoors, coming on
one after the other, even before February has run
its course.

Florence Pearson is now getting fairly well
known. I call my friend Duncan Pearson a very
lucky mail. I wonder if any of us raisers have
got such a proportion of first-rate varieties from
the seed he has sown as he has ; e.g., Lowdham
Beauty, Elfrida Pearson, Hon. Mrs. Francklin,
&c. Readers know my views about the future
of this fine plant for the garden. When Florence
Pearson is lower in price, it will be the
Mme. de Graaff of to-day, and that splendid
variety will have to sufier a partial if not
a total eclipse. The Doctor is one of my own
importations from the Land of Bulbs. It
has not the circular perianth which many of
our stricter judges still swear by, for the segments
take , a star-shaped form. Nevertheless, it is a

as I do Ethelbert with Arthur Goodwin. " Quite
unknowns to himself," I expect, he was the one
who first introduced me to its quiet beauty by a
description of it which he wrote years ago for
The Garden. Cartwright and Goodwin still give
it a large space in their catalogue, which is, I take
it, the analogous expression of a firm to the indivi-
dual one of a warm corner in one's heart. In
prosaic terms, it is a white-perianthed Barrii,
with a rather undulating perianth and a flatfish
eye of pale citron, margined with a narrow band of
reddish orange ; breadth of flower, about 2J inches.
Utopia, which now appears in Mr. Christopher
Bourne's list as Discus, first saw the light of day
at the Birmingham Show of this year. I notice
he has classed it as a Barrii (3b), whereas in my
" Midland " notes I have got it down as a flat -eyed
Leedsii, with broad and overlapping segments
and a large flat eye, green in the centre, but other-

WHAT

IS A FLORIST'S
FLOWER P

I

.\ WOODLAND SCENE IN SPRING. NOW IS THE TIME TO PLANT THE DAFFODIL BULBS.

good show flower, for there is no " quartering,"
and the texture is as smooth and refined as anyone
could desire. Mr. C. Bourne had a fine example
of it on his stand. In the open it is decidedly
on the late side. It was the only yellow trumpet
that I was able to stage at Birmingham in the
abnormal season of 1911. Although smooth and
refined, it is a large flower. The measurement
of the bloom above referred to was 4! inches by
2 inches by 2 inches — larger, in fact, than an average
Olympia, which is given in Robert Sydenham's
book as 4 J inches by ij inches by 2 inches.
Ethelbert was on his stand. In writing of its
singular charm, it makes a lump come in my throat
to think that he will never see the sales which it
certainly deserves to have ; nor yet those of his
Tinsel, which I consider in many ways as an
improved Ethelbert. I expect I will always asso-
ciate this lovely variety with " Uncle Robert," just

wise of a beautiful shade of buff. It makes a fine
show bloom, but 1 would like to raise the question :
What is a Leedsii, and what is a Barrii ? It will
be interesting to see where Mr. Rudolf Barr will
place his St. Olaf. These two varieties are " much
of a muchness " in general appearance, and I am
certainly inclined to. regard both as Leedsiis, of
which the Royal Horticultural Society's Classifica-
tion List gives this definition : " Perianth white,
and cup or crown white, cream or citron : embracing
all sizes as found in the Incomparabilis and Barrii
classes." The italics are mine. I think we should
always bear this part of the definition in mind
in pigeon-holing our purchases or our own seedlings.
A word of congratulation, in conclusion, to Miss
West, the artist, for her very clever grouping. I
have only seen her original picture, and it was
charming. I hope the coloured print will do it
justice. Joseph Jacob.

HAVE just finished reading a little book,
" Daffodils," written by the Rev. J. Jacob,
a name sufficiently familiar to those who
read The Garden. It is not a very recent
book, but it is new to me, and has set me
thinking. Not that there is in it anything
that will appear novel or startling to experienced
Daffodil-growers, the scope of the worK being too
limited to permit of very exhaustive or original
treatment. What there is of it, however, is on
sovmd lines, sufficiently so to lead one to hope that
Mr. Jacob may presently see his way to try his hand
on a larger canvas, and te' ' us all that there is to
tell about the flower. At the same time, though I
agree in the main with Mr. Jacob's ideals, prefer-
ences and general views in respect of
the Daffodil, I do not invariably find
myself in accord ; and my object in
referring to the lutle work is not so
much to praise it as, with your per-
mission, to touch on a point of sub-
sidiary importance on which I join
issue with the author.

My slight and friendly cavil concerns
the sixteenth chapter oT Mr. Jacob's
book, in which he proposes to elevate
the Daffodil to the rank of " florist's
flower " — for as elevation Mr. Jacob
would evidently regard such a change
of status, though to some of us this
kind of promotion m?y appear rather
in the nature ot a ' kick.ng upstairs."
Mr. Jacob looks for the coming of a
latter-day Glenn y to teach us what is,
and what is not, desirable in the
Daffodil. No doubt the instructions
of a Daffodil pope might relieve
judges at shows of some trouble and
responsibility by renderirg their duties
as nearly as possible mechanical;
but most lovers of the fi'jwer (lovers
of the Daffodil are not all judges
or even exhibitors) will prefer, I
should think, to have the Nar-
cissus left outside the g-oup called
" florist's flowers," the merits of
which have too long been decided
by appeal to narrow and sometimes
irrational standards. Not that
one would wish to belittle the
achievements of the professional
florist. I for one have no wish to
underrate what he has done for our garden flowers.
To that very striving after conventional and
arbitrary standards we owe very largely the lovely
varieties of Auricula, Carnation, Tulip and other
flowers which beautify oor beds and borders at
the present moment. To be sure, it is doubtful
whether the particular features which the florist
has insisted upon for his special flower have always
added to its beauty. A poet has told us that
beauty and truth are convertible terms — " Beauty
is truth, truth beauty — that is all we know
and all we need to know." I do not know
about that.

When we come to plain prose, such generalisations
involve a certain amount of juggling with words.
Anyhow, where beauty is not a matter of truth, it
is purely a matter of taste ; and, as we all know,
there is no disputing about matters of taste. The
point is that the florist, having his own notion of

\

September i^, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

463

beauty (his own tastes, in short), desires to impose
them, and has largely succeeded in imposing them,
upon other people ; and so it has been in the past
that, by cast-iron standards contrived to this end,
the professional florist, while he achieved wonders
in certain directions, has prevented the develop-
ment of flowers from moving with sufficient freedom
in certain other directions which are perhaps even
more desirable.

Mr. Jacob, like other people, finds definitions to
be troublesome things. I certainly should not care
to attempt the definition of " archdeacon," but
I am not so shy about " florist's flower,"
which is a much less elusive subject.
I should say that when a flower lends
itself to infinite variation In the hands
of the hybridiser, and, further, has had
its standards of excellence definitely
determined by experts and generally ac-
cepted by growers, it becomes ipso facto
a " florist's flower." In this sense the
Auricula, Tulip and Carnation are florist's
flowers. The Lily is not a florist's
flower, because neither does it readily
lend itself to variation, nor has it
been standardised by experts. The
Daffodil is, so far, not a florist's flower,
because, though it is the most plastic
of flowers in the hands of the breeder,
it has not yet had its points definitely
fixed by authority. The Daflodil, in
other words, has not yet had its Glenny,
for whose coming, however, Mr. Jacob
is not entirely without hope ; and when
he comes we shall then know what a
Daffodil ought to be, and can determine
for ourselves the perfect flower by rule
and plummet. Somerset.

(To be coiUinufil.)

DAFFODILS IN
ZEALAND.

NEW

T

HE " Dafiodil Notes " and correspond-
ence contributed from time to time to
The Garden by the Rev. Joseph
Jacob and others are very interesting
to us who are follo\ving the c>ilt of
the spring favourite here at your
antipodes, and the coming of them tempts me to
pen a few notes about the growing and showing of

NARCISSUS COLLEEN.

It generally happens that among the
multiplicity of new varieties of Narcissi
exhibited at the Royal Horticultural
Society's meetings each spring, one or
two varieties stand out from all the
rest for their distinct character. So far
as my memory serves me, the year 1910
only produced one such variety, viz..
Colleen. It was shown by the Rev. G. H.
Engleheart and passed into the hands
of Messrs. Wallace of Colchester, who
placed it before the Narcissus com-
mittee, and an award of merit was
given. The flower is unique in colour,
being of a pure Poeticus white. The cup
also is white, with a pure, bright green
centre and a narrow edge of green. The
whole flower is of great substance,
the texture of the perianth partaking
more of the Barrii type than the
Poeticus ; but the general appearance of the
flower gives one the idea of a Poet with an
enlarged cup, and the usual red colour replaced
by green. L. W. G,

A GORGEOUS TULIP.

Now that planting time is here I would advise
readers to purchase a few bulbs of Tulipa
fosteriana. If planted in good soil in a warm
spot they should do well, and produce their large,
glowing scarlet, goblet-shaped flowers next spring.
It is one of the largest Tulips I know, and
is always greatly admired in my garden. H.

plain and swamp, bush-clad ranges and snow-
capped moimtains, over which is spread a popula-
tion of just over one million, exclusive of the native
Maori. The climate varies from semi-tropical in
the North to conditions approximating to those of
North Britain in the South, where the winters are
frequently severe, with plenty of snow and ice.
The country generally enjoys an ample rainfall
and is well watered, anything in the way of drought
being very unusual. The four principal centres —
Auckland and Wellington (North Island) and
Christcliurch and Dunedin (South Island) — are
widely separated, though the last two
are comparatively near neighbours. It
so happens that, although the Narcissus
has been grown out here for well over a
quarter of a century, and has now
attained a strong and increasingly popular
position in public estimation, it is only
in the principal centres that Dafiodil
shows of any importance are held, and
little or no interchange or competition
takes place between different parts of
the Dominion (except Christchurch and
Dunedin). Thus there is little oppor-
tunity for New Zealand growers to
compare results and progress, as the
Daffodil votary, especially if he be engaged
raising seedlings, cannot, during the
season, spare the time for the necessary
travelling. This particularly affects -Auck-
land, the " farthest North," as the
journey from here to Dunedin, for in-
stance, by rail and steamer occupies
fully two days of continuous travelling,
while the trip by steamer right through
occupies five days. Another obstacle in
the way of inter-island competition is that
our seasons do not synchronise, Auckland
being four to six weeks in advance of the
South, and by the time Christchurch and
Dunedin are holding their Daffodil
shows, our liorticulturists are concentrat-
ing their attention on Roses, Sweet Peas
and Carnations for the summer exhibitions.
Our flower shows are therefore necessarily
of a rather parochial nature, and the
gathering of exhibits and the friendly
intercourse and rivalry of enthusiasts
from all parts, which make so largely
for the success of English shows, are
denied us here.

Having said so much on general
conditions, I will now try to deal with
Daffodils in this (Auckland) district, and
as I have been a grower of them for over
twenty years, and have been an active
promoter of the spring show of the
.Auckland Horticultural Society for a large
part of that time, I am fairly well ac-
quainted with the subject. The Auckland
district offers growers a large choice of
the " Daff " out here, in the hope that you may soils, from very light volcanic (the Auckland
find something among them of interest to your isthmus is a nest of extinct volcanic cones) to the
readers in the Homeland. stiffest clay, and also varied aspects, and the climate,

A few words first as to the geographical and being mUd, with ample rainfall during winter and
climatic conditions in New Zealand may not be spring, while heavy frosts are very rare, is eminently
out of place ; for notwithstanding the way this suitable for the cultivation of Daffodils. At the
Dominion has of late years been " boomed " at same time, these conditions necessitate a cease-
home, and the large and increasing number of less warfare with weeds, slugs and snails throughout
English people who annually visit us, I am afraid , the season, which they also serve to lengthen
that, to the bulk of the great British public, we are ■ much beyond what, I understand, you are accus-
term incognita still. New Zealand is over one | tomed to. It is not unusual to have the Paper
thousand miles long from North to South, with an j White and other Polyanthus kinds in flower in
area of over one hundred thousand square miles of [ May, early trumpets following towards the end of

NARCISSUS COLLEEN, A BEAUTIFUL NEW VARIETY
WITH A LARGE EYE OR CUP.

464

THE GARDEN.

[September 13, 1913.

June ; from then onwards they come in increasing
numbers till the flush of the season in September,
after which time they gradually thin out, though
late varieties may some seasons be cut up to the
middle of November, I speak here of outdoor
culture only, as practically nothing is done in this

these be grown as he grows them (for there is a lot
in the growing), and staged at Birmingham or other
of the English shows, I feel satisfied they would
not lack attention and appreciation from the
connoisseurs. Among his earlier productions are
many fine yellow trumpets of maximus and M. J,

district in the way of forcing, except perhaps when : Berkeley type, and large, tall-growing incom-

one wishes to have for exhibition some variety ; parabilis ; but among his later seedlings are many

which usually flowers too late outside. | fine, " cool "-looking flowers, both trumpets and

Most of our growers regularly import the newer j cups, including some very taking Johnstoni

varieties from English firms ; but, as we have no [ hybrids. Among the latter are some of the most

wealthy leisured class, we have to wait till the : floriferous plants I have seen, some bulbs sending

prices come within reasonable limits, though some [ up as many as four or five stalks, carrying from

varieties priced at £io a bulb and over have been two to five large flowers like fair-sized trumpets,

imported ; and several devotees

cultivate collections of from loo

to 300 or even more varieties.

Our principal spring show, under

the auspices of the Auckland

Horticultural Society, is held in

the first week of September,

and is undoubtedly the most

popular show of the year,

coming as it does to tell us

winter is past ; for even in

this favoured clime flowers are

at times very scarce diuring the

winter months. Competition is

usually good, the schedule

providing opportunity for all

growers, classes ranging from

single blooms to stands of forty

varieties. As before explained,

the exhibition is apt to be

rather local, a radius of fifteen

miles covering all exhibitors,

with one or two exceptions.

Recently two inland towns —

Hamilton and Cambridge (80

and 100 miles South) — have in-
stituted regular spring shows,

and some exchange with

Auckland has taken place, while

three other provincial towns —

Thames, Rotorua (celebrated for
its thermal wonders) and Cleve-

don — also made a move last
season. The fancy is as yet in
its infancy in these places ; but
Cambridge possesses a large
grower in Mr. W. F. Buckland,
who is also a most successful
Clirysanthemum man, known
beyond New Zealand as the
raiser of some sterling new
varieties of that flower.

In the matter of producing
new Daflodils, Auckland promises
well. Probably our oldest and
most successful grower is Pro-
fessor A. P. W. Thomas of Auck-
land University, and in the fasci-
nating hobby of raising Daffodil seedlings he is tacile
priiiceps. He was the first to take up the Narcissus
in this district, and was quietly worldng away at
it long before most of us knew anything better than
Emperor or Empress. Now, his beautiful grounds
with walled terraces, flower-beds, rockeries and
winding paths formed with much labour out of
the rough scoria slopes at the foot of Mount Eden —
an extinct volcanic cone in the suburbs — contain,
besides many imported Narcissus aristocrats, a
very large number of beautiful new varieties, the
result of liis systematic and careful hybridising and
culture for many years past. Could the pick of

A BEAUTIFUL BOWL OF TULIPS PRINCE DE LIGNE. THESE HAVE
BEEN GROWN IN FIBRE AS DESCRIBED ON THE OPPOSITE PAGE.

varying from pure white through shades of yellow.
Although his soil is the light, loose material of the
volcanic parts, a very noticeable feature is the
strong growth and height usually attained, many
of the trumpets and medios averaging 24 inches to
the ovary, some varieties measuring as much as
30 inches, while one kind, aptly called Flagstaff,,
exceeds that height.

Owing largely to the quality of his own seed-
lings, Professor Thomas secured first place at our
spring shows in the consecutive seasons of
1909-10-11, against strong competition with im-
ported varieties, in the largest class (forty varieties

of Daffodils, excluding Polyanthus), thereby winning
outright the society's handsome silver vase. Last
season he showed only in classes for single blooms
(winning in eight out of nine classes, five of the
blooms being his own productions) and for seedlings.
He also staged for exhibition only a large and hand-
some group, nearly all of his own raising, and
comprising, among others, the varieties commented
on by Mr. F. Herbert Chapman in your issue of
November 30 last.

Another enthusiast is the Rev. William Beatty,
Vicar of St. Mark's, Remuera (a suburb of
Auckland), the Daffodil occupying first place in
his affections. Some years ago he initiated the " St.
Mark's Daffodil At Home " in
his Parish Hall, and it has
become a successful annual fix-
ture. It takes place usually two
or three weeks prior to our
principal show, and provides
opportunity for a display of the
advance guard of yellow trum-
pets, &c.^ Mr. Beatty's preference
seems to be for the " first-early "
section, and these largely pre-
ponderate in the Vicarage garden.
He has done some hybridising
among them, directing his efforts
to obtaining " early birds," and
though his productions might not
attract much attention in competi-
tion with modern high-class
show blooms, he has several
very early yellow trumpets that
will be of value in the cut-
flower industry when more
plentiful.

Aroused to emulation by the
success of Professor Thomas,
several other growers here have
from time to time taken up
seedling-raising, and some half-
dozen uf them have passed
through the long patience-trying
initial waiting, and there is every
indication that before long we
shall have competition in classes
for " seedlings raised by exhibi-
tor," hitherto monopolised by
Professor Thomas. This aspect
of Daffodil culture largely in-
fluences the choice when im-
porting, and varieties with a
reputation as good seeders are
preferred, though we find they
do not always bear out that
character when acclimatised
here. I suppose the change
of climate and environment dis-
t u r b s their constitutions to
some extent. In the Auckland
district the seed germi-
nates well in specially-prepared beds in the
open air, and is usually sown just after the first
autumn rains, about the end of March and through
April. I notice some of the authorities at home
recommend sowing the seed as soon as ripe
(that would be October and November here),
but those who have tried this here have
found no special advantage to accrue, and think
the seed is safer kept until autumn than lying
in the seed - bed well baked by our hot
summer sun.

Auckland, New Zealand. A. E. Grindrod.

{To be continued.)

September 13, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

465

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

GROWING BULBS IN FIBRE.

AS each September comes round, my
thoughts turn unerringly to the culture
of spring bulbs for window or room
, decoration. Hyacinths, Narcissi,
^ Tulips and Crocuses are my favourites,
and I grow all of them in bowls filled
with fibre ; the latter, specially prepared for
the purpose and sold as carbonated fibre, may
be obtained from almost any firm of nursery-
men, and it is quite inexpensive. Moreover, it is
clean to handle and is not offensive indoors.
.•Umost any bowl that will accommodate the bulbs
will answer, although the best kind I know is the
" Oriental," supplied by Messrs. Hunter and Gow,
Limited, 56, Thomas Street, Liverpool. This bowl
contains an inner bowl with holes in the bottom.

down on the surface, the
growing bulbs may be unable
to thrust their way through,
with the result that the whole
of the top fibre may be lifted
right up above the bowl. Again,
space should be left at the top
of the bow! — about half an inch
or so — to allow for watering.
The very rough parts of the
fibre should be rubbed out, and
a few pieces of charcoal placed
in the bottom of each bowl.

After Potting, very httle at-
tention will be needed for at least
three weeks. The fibre should
be kept just
m o i s t — n o t
sodden on
any account,
or this may
lead to the
early decay of

BOWL OF ROMAV HYACINTHS IN COURSE OF POTIING UP. THE
BULBS SHOULD BE ALMOST COVERED WITH FIBRE, THE SURFACE
OF WHICH SHOULD BE HALF AN INCH OR MORE FROM THE TOP
OF THE BOWL.

the bulbs.
Keep the
bowls in an
airy cellar or room ; nothiiig is
worse than confining them in a
cupboard. After a few weeks,
growth will commence, and
when this is about one inch high
the bowls may be brought to
the light. From this period
onwards the bulbs require more
moisture to supply the growing
tissues of the plants. When
removed to the Ught, let the
bowls be placed in a cool green-
house, frame or on a window-
sill ; but OQ no account must
frost be cillowed to reach them.
^Selection of Varieties.— Of

Hyacinths one

. FINE BOWL OF YELLOW CROCUSES. THESE ARE AMONG THE MOST
SATISFACTORY OF ALL FLOWERS FOR GROWING IN BOWLS OF FIBRE.

Daffodil (one of the first to flower). Golden Spur,
Emperor, Horsfieldii or Empress, and Poeticus .
ornatus. Spartan.

POTTING AND BOXING LOBELIA.

Cultivators sometimes lift and pot whole plants
direct from the flower border. Very often they die
before Christmas. Plants that were duly prepared
by cutting back 'or the supply of cuttings are the
best to lift ard pot now ; but every plant should
be carefully divided, the parts being inserted
round the s'des of 6-.'nch fower-pots filled with a
light and sandy compost. Whether in frames or in
houses, the plants must not be subjected to a dry
heat, but be very care'ally watered and guarded
against e.\cessive atmospheric moisture. B.

which allows water to drain into the outer bowl
without disturbing the bulbs. However, ordinary
bowls without drainage answer very well, providing
that over-watering is guarded against. I find it
best to grow one variety only in a bowl, although
there is nothing to prevent one mixing varieties or
even different kinds, such as Hyacinths over a
groundwork of Crocuses. When one variety only
is used to a bowl, the flowers may be relied upon
to throw their spikes of bloom uniformly and at
the same time ; but this is not so when they are
mixed.

Above all it is necessary to purchase bulbs from
a reliable source. The best bulbs only should be
used, and the writer has known of many failures
through purchasing cheap bulbs late in the season.
Small bulbs or corms, such as in the case of the
Crocus, should be covered with about their own
depth of fibre, but large bulbs, such as Hyacinths
and Daffodils, need not be completely covered.
The fibre should be moist at the time of potting
up, but not saturated. It should be pressed
fairly firm'y around the bulbs. If pressed hard

c anno t! do
better than
grow such standard varieties
as Grand Maitre (pale blue),
L' Innocence (pure white) and
Moreno (pink). Most of the
Crocuses can be relied upon, but
I have found purpurea grandi-
flora (purple). King of Whites
and Queen of Sheba (yeUow) a
grand trio. Tulips are not always
a success with me, although
Prince de Ligne (yellow — see
illustration 'on opposite page).
Cottage Maid (pale pink) and
Keizerskroon (crimson and gold)
are among the most satisfactory
I have tried. Mon Tresor is a
fine early yellow Tulip, and
Scarlet Van Thol is certainly
worth growing, as it is extra
early and of very light colour.
Of Narcissi, the following are to
be relied upon for growing in
fibre : N. obvallaris, the Tenby

HYACINTH GRAND MAITRE PLACED IN A BOWL OF FIBRE. ONLY 1 Hit
VERY BEST BULBS SHOULD BE SELECTED FOR THIS PURPOSE.

466

THE GARDEN.

[September 13, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Fuchsias. — These should be propagated now,
selecting, as far as possible, the young growing
shoots that are not carrying flower. Put seven or
eight cuttings round the side of a 4i-inch pot,
from which they may be transferred mto single
pots as soon as nicely rooted.

Propagation. — The work of propagating soft-
wooded bedding plants must be proceeded with at
once, and if suitable accommodation is provided,
such plants as Coleus, Iresine, Altemanthera,
Alyssum,' Mesembryanthemum, Heliotrope and
Ageratum will root as quickly now as at any time.
Where plenty of propagatin'g-cases with bottom-
heat are at liberty, these may be utilised, but, failing
these, it is wise to make up a moderately good hot-
bed to take as many low frames as may be required
for the cuttings, plunging the pots to the rim in
Cocoanut fibre.

Abutilon Thompsonii should be treated similarly
to Fuchsias, but should be given a size larger
pot when potting off, and to make really good
specimens must be kept growing gentlv throughout
the winter.

Flower-Beds. — These must be kept regularly
picked over, so that they present a tidy appearance
as long as possible. Any beds that are quite gone
over should be filled up, where the convenience
allows of it, with such subjects as early-flowering
Chrysanthemums, Salvia splendens, or even dwarf-
growing Asters, these, of course, having been
specially prepared. If in pots there will be very
little trouble, except that the watering must be
well attended to ; but if lifted from nursery beds or
borders the syringe will need to be kept going
should the weather be hot and dry after shifting.
The Lobelias are quite over in some districts, and
these must be pulled up. If the other occupants
of the beds have grown well, they will not be much
missed at this season.

Plants Under Glass.
Coleus should now be propjgated for stock
purposes, and if put in single pots may be potted
on as they are, and so form nice plants quite early.
For providing cuttings for the spring, three may
be put in a 3-inch pot. I make a practice of
putting in more than is actually required for stock,
the surplus being used in the autumn for edging
small groups, or as groundwork, with small Ferns,
for decorative exhibits of Chrysanthemums.

Small Decorative Subjects, such as Selaginellas,
Panicum, Fittonias and Tradescantias, should also
be propagated in quantity, sufficient pots being
made up to last through the winter ; and where
large parties are given during the shooting season
it is astonishing how many pots of small stuff
are required.

Bouvardias and Solanums that may have been
planted in the open ground or in frames should be
lifted and potted at once. Considerable care will
be necessary to get them over the shift without
a severe check, but by careful syringing and shading
for a few days and keeping the house or frame quite
close they will soon begin to make fresh roots,
when they may be given more air and light.

Perpetual-flowering Carnations.— If the house
or houses are not already prepared for the re-
ception of these plants, they should be cleaned at
once, so as to get the plants in without delay.
They should be carefully tied, and well sprayed
to make quite sure that they are free of spider
or any other insect pests at the time of housing.
1 find sulphide of potassium a really good thing to
syringe with, but the plants must be allowed to
dry before being taken in, or the solution is apt
to mark the paint where it comes in cont.act with it.

The Kitchen Garden.

Spinach sown a few weeks ago should now be
advanced enough for thinning. If thinned to
about three inches apart now, it may be again
thinned, taking out every alternate plant when large
enough to use, and the remaining plants should
stand the winter well. Sprinkle the ground about
them well with soot during showery weather ;
this will keep the plants healthy as well as keep
down slugs.

Lettuce should now be sown on a warm border
where it will stand the winter. Hardy White Cos
and Stanstead Park being two varieties as well
suited for the purpose as any.

Endive. — The latest batches of this should be
pricked out, choosing a warm border where lights
may be placed over the plants in the event of very
wet or severe weather later in the season. Earlv
batches that are nearly fit for use should be tied
up for blanching, choosing a time when the foliage
IS quite dry, or they may be inclined to damp
or rot off.

Cauliflowers should now be sown for spring
planting, choosing a position on a warm border
where the soil is fairly light and well drained.
In some locahties they may stand in the open air,
but in most places they will have to be pricked out
in frames or under hand-lights to come through
the winter successfully. Early London and
Walcheren are the two varieties that do best in
this neighbourhood, the former, if anything, being
the best of the two.

Hardy Fruit.

Fruit Gathering.— Owing to the drought I
find many varieties of both Apples and Pears
maturing earlier than usual, so that a sharp look-
out must be kept on the trees to prevent many
of the fruits fallmg. The different varieties should
be gone over once or twice a week, gathering those
that show signs of falling off, and storing them as
thinly as possible in the fruit-room. Extra good
specimens that it may be desirable to leave on the
trees should have bags placed over them ; but I have
noticed a decided tendency on the part of Pears that
have been bagged to go sleepy much more quickly
than those not so treated; this, no doubt, is due to
the want of air to the fruits during the maturing
period.

Strawberries. — Good, firm plantmg is quite
necessary, and where the roots have become
matted in the balls of soil they should be eased
out somewhat. In the event of continued drought
the plants must be kept watered until they show
signs of ^having got a good hold of the soil.
Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

IVoburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Planting Border Pinks.— Cuttings or pipings
inserted in the summer will now be ready for
planting out. If they are to occupy a separate
border or bed, they should be transferred to their
flowering quarters forthwith. It, on the other
hand, they are to be planted near the front of
mixed beds or borders, they may be nm oat into
nursery lines now, and transferred to their flowering
quarters after the beds and borders have been
dug over in spring. Pinks succeed best in a
medium or light soil, and no rank manure should
come in contact with their roots. Mrs. Sinkins
and Her Majesty are fine for edgings or growing
in masses. The old laced varieties are very beauti-
ful, and Napoleon III. shoifld not be overlooked.
Many of the single seedlings are also very beautiful,
both in form and colour.

Herbaceous Plants. — See that Asters, Golden
Rods, tall Helianthuses and such like are proof
against the autumn winds. Cut over the flower-
stems of all plants as they go out of bloom, and
as the natural beauty begins to wane, try to make
the garden as attractive as possible by keeping
everything trim and tidy.

The Rose Garden.

Selections for Planting.— I now give a few
names for the benefit of beginners who may con-
template planting this November. Where a mass
of bloom is the chief aim, the following can be
heartily recommended : Reds — Hugh Dickson,
J. B. Clark (both very vigorous). Captain Hayward,
General Macarthur, Richmond and the old Hybrid
Perpetual General Jacqueminot. Pinks — Caroline
Testout (a vigorous grower and perpetual bloomer).
La France, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Mme. Jules
Grolez, Mrs. W. J. Grant, and the two old Hybrid
Perpetuals Merveille de Lyon and Mrs. J. Laing.
Yellows — Mme. Ravary, Le Progres and Gustave

Regis. Whites— Frau Karl Dnischki, Augustine
Guinoisseau and Amateur Teyssier. For general
purposes the following are all excellent, and for
descriptions readers should consult a descriptive
catalogue : Antome Rivoire, Avoca, Betty, Coral-
lina, Edu Meyer, Edward Mawley, Killamey,
La Tosca, Lady Battersea, Laurent Carle, Liberty,
Lieutenant Chaure, Lyon Rose, Mme. Melanie
Soupert, Marquise de Sinety, Pharisaer, Prince
de Bulgarie, Viscountess Folkestone, Juliet and
Lady Hillingdon, which does well here. The
foregoing I know well, but thev are only a few
among the many.

Pruning Ramblers.— If there is a sufficiency
of young, vigorous shoots, cut away all the old
wood ; if not, retain a portion of it. Of course,
more of the old wood can be retained on screen
fences and pergolas than on arches and pillars.

The Wild Garden.
General Work.— A general clean up should
now be given here. The grass, if gone over with
the scythe, will not cause trouble again this season.
Many subjects have now gone out of bloom, and
their flower-stems should be cut over. Wichuraiana
Roses, too, should have a portion of the old
wood thinned out to enable the young shoots to
ripen. Rosa rugosa in variety is showing the
brightness of its heps, and the Dogwood leaves
are growing beautiful in decay, to be succeeded
during the winter by the beauty of their bright
bark. Where these plants are absent, they should
be planted before another season.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Lawns. — Grass is failing more quickly than
usual this season owing to the drought ; still, the
mower should be kept gomg till October is 'well
in, as a few tufts, even here and there, if left cause
the whole lawn to look unsightly. If wormcasts
appear, the Birch broom should' be brought into
play, followed by the roller.

Leaves. — These are now causing trouble, and
should be cleaned up once a week or oftener,
according to circumstances. If skilfully handled,
nothing equals a new Birch broom for this work,'
especially on grass or smooth walks and drives.

Pruning Hedges.— If not already done, this
work should be carried through at once, for two
reasons, viz., the wood is so much softer now than
later on, and if Privet (evergreen) is cut later it
remains bare all the winter.

Plants Under Glass.

Chrysanthemums.— The operation of takmg
the bud will now be well over, but attention must
still be given to the work where necessary. Dis-
budding the terminals will now claim attention
in the decorative section. The extent to which
the process should be carried must depend upon
the natural size of the flowers. Among the singles,
for instance, varieties like Ladysmith and Kitty
Bourne require no disbudding, whereas the Pagrams
and others of large size should have at least half
of the buds removed.

Caladiums as they go to rest should be stored
away on their sides where the temperature does
not fall below 60° during the winter.

Fruits Under Glass.

Pruning Early Vines.— As soon as the occupants
of the early house have shed their foliage, they
should be pruned. A sharp knife is much prefer-
able to the secateurs for this work. Cut well
back, as only one bud is required for each spur ;
and while it is true that surplus buds can be rubbed
out in spring, a succession of long spurs soon
handicaps the tree in the production of good fruit.

The Vegetable Garden.

Earthing-Up Leeks.— It is only the blanched
part of a Leek that counts ; therefore the more
blanched portion the better. If planted in trenches,
earthing-up is done in the same way as Celery is
treated ; if grown in lines, the Leeks being planted
in the bottom of drills as I advocated at planting-
time, the ground will now be level and a good portion
of the plants blanched. This can now be increased
by giving the plants an earth-up with the draw
hoe in the same way as Potatoes are treated.

Brussels Sprouts.— If the plants have all the
decayed and semi-decayed leaves removed, the
sprouts will develop all the better.

Charles Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

September 13, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

467

" THE DAFFODIL YEAR- The dry but quite necessary official and statistical
_-,^-^|. ,, information about the London and provincial

Dafiodil societies and shows, with their awards,

THIS admirable little l)ook is a landmark \ the standard classification of Narcissi for exhi-
in the history of the Daffodil, a witness j bition, the Royal Horticultural Society's schedule
to its attainment to a probably per- and entry form for 1914, &c., is given minutely and
manent state of equilibrium after the 1 clearly, and is enlivened by instructive articles
many ups and downs of its long history. ' o" hybridising, the preservation of show blooms.
Old John Parkinson, bom in 1567, is I tbe novelties of 1913 with il'ustrations, and the
usually quoted as its authentic father in English Pot cultivation of Daftodils. The pages on some
gardens— he grew or knew nearly a hundred kinds— of the " Celebrities of Daffodildom " are faced by
but we learn from Turner, born twenty years I portraits quite surprisingly well reproduced,
earlier, that before Parkinson's time " Narcissus " : Those who had the privilege of knowing Mr. Peter
was " of diuerse sortes," and we may believe j Barr will see the man himself redivivus in this
that some daffodil or another was to be found in | aggressive-looking but most characteristic present-
English gardens almost from their first beginning, ment. .Mr. .\ndrew Kingsmill's face, too, recalls
Gardening, with most other arts, was a good deal | the earlier daffodil days. .\las ! the fiower
obscured in the drab stretch of the eighteenth cen- ' endures, but its votaries pass,
tury, but our flower reasserted itself strongly from There is place for little adverse criticism,
about 1830 onwards, and thenceforward the stages of Possibly the tables of dates of opening of specified
its progress are visible enough.- Haworth had nearly varieties are of small practical value. Localities

are concerned with its subject. They " have
no desire to make profit by the undertaking, but
they consider that any such publication devoted
to the interests of one particular flower should
come within reasonable distance of proving self
supporting." Surely such support will be abun-
dantly given. The price (is. 6d.) is almost ridicu-
lously small for such a book. G. H. Englehe.4Rt.

COSSINGTON

THE

HOUSE.

THFIR

CROSFIELDS AND
DAFFODILS.

."^DIES first, please! I cannot write Cros-
field in the singular, for surely no lover
and exhibitor of flowers has ever had
a wife that backed him up better
and encouraged him more — not only
by precept, but by example — than
Ernest Crosfield. The good man is busy or

completed his classification, still the basis of our have each their own climate, and seasons vary so ' away ; she is his eyes, and goes carefully round

own, at the last-mentioned date, and

by 1 840 the cross- breeders had broken

into a new- world. Herbert, Leeds,

Backhouse and Barr carry us link by

link to our present crowd of pro-
ducers and products.

It is a far cry from the " white

Daffodil " that was growing " pleii-

teously in my Lorde's Gardine in

Syon " in 1548 to the bewildering

multiplicity of blossom in a 1913

Vincent Square Show. But always

throughout these centuries the Daf-

lodil has been a — we may perhaps

say the — distinctively English flower,

cherished and developed exclusively

by Enghsh hearts, brains and hands.

-■\nd its permanence is witnessed to

by the book now under notice.

There was a period in our recollec-
tion when the Daffodil seemed to fall

into the paraphernalia of the new

medieval esthetes, and John Bull

was inclined to laugh at its " cult "

as a transient craze of poets and

parsons. But the spring-hunger for

flowers is eternal, and this flower's

intrinsic beauties and possibilities

have safeguarded it against both

petting and ridicule, while, best

insurance of all, our flower-markets

demonstrate its solid commercial posi-
tion, .'^d a flower has surely come to stay when,

after some 350 years of its life, the Council and

President of the world's greatest horticultural

society make such a book a part of their serious

output, and can speak (page 80) of the " greatly

increased interest taken in Daffodils." The

Daffodil confraternity — a phrase now out of date,

for it is fast becoming synonymous with the flower-
loving public — should be grateful to the Society

for such a helpful publication, and to its Editor,

the Rev. Joseph Jacob, who has made it a labour

of love, and has gathered and arranged his material

with great skill.

The book leaves httle to be desired, either out-
wardly or inwardly. Its strong canvas binding

of quiet daffodil green is in excellent taste ; it

lies open well — how many books provoke hasty

language by the contrary defect ! — and has the

best of paper and type. The contents have been

so contrived as to be valuable alike to the most

advanced expert and to the most tentative beginner. | must depend upon the support given by those who

THE BE.\UTIKUL GROUP OF DAFFODILS EXHIBITED BY MESSRS. J.\MES CARTER AND CO. AT THE

LONDON SHOW IN APRIL THIS YE.\R.

irregularly that it would take a century to establish
that somewhat delusive thing an average. It
may be pointed out that black-and-white illustra-
tions of yellow flowers are not at all informative
to the eye. Thus the entire value of Jonquilla-
hybrid Marigold (Fig. 2) lies in its peculiarly
rich quality of yellow, whereas the figure suggests
nothing but a rather weak white, .\jax. On the
contrary, the frontispiece, in colour, of the two
remarkable red-perianthed seedlings is a faithful
and intelligible portrait. The present writer, by
the way, has had more than one of such new-
comers in his own seedling-beds, and has neither
admiration nor use for them. A. chief glory of
the Daffodil lies in its classical restraint and delicacy
of form and colour, and a wholly red flower would
fall outside such bounds.

In a prefatory not ce the President and Council
of the Royal Horticultural Society explain that
the annual continuance of this valuable issue

the beds marking what he ought to see when he
returns or is free. The bustling time nf putting
the blooms into their travelling boxes has arrived.
She is always packer-in-chief at home, and a jolly
good one, too, for " E. M." wxites " as far as I
know we never have had a single bloom damaged."
What her sister and herself do when the show
rendezvous is reached, every exhibitor and com-
petitor at London and Birmingham loiows full
well. .\nd what of 191 1 ? When he thought
the cupboard bare of prize-winners, did not she
go into the drawing-room and the garden, and
" on her own " get together a fine exhibit which
secured her a place on the honour roll of winners
of the Bourne Cup ? Bravo ! .Mrs. Crosfield
May your sporting example never be forgotten !
We none of us know what we can do until
we try.

Cossington House is a comfortable country
residence about foiur miles from the town of Bridg-
water. When circumstances necessitated a move

468

THE GARDEN.

[bEPTEMBEK I3, iqij.

from Little Acton, near Wrexham, in igo8, it
was very largely chosen because it was thought
that the soil would be particularly suitable for
Daffodil culture. Imagine, then, Mr. Crosfield's
feelings when he found that it was by no means
the ideal ground that he had taken it to be. It
was a crushing blo^y, and some men might have
given up in disgust. Not so the subject of my
sketch. With that dogged determination to
succeed which has placed h'm among the very
best shots and the very best fishermen of his day,
he began to look about to see what could be
done. He was fortunate in being able to secure
some wonderfully good land about four miles
on the coast side of Bridgwater. And then to make
his own garden,, in part at any rate, suitable, at
immense cost he carted sand and some of this
good soil to Cossington, so that as this operation
is more or less a yearly one, he has a gradually
enlarging patch to which he feels safe in com-
mitting his most cherished bulbs, such as Gyr-
falc.on, Willonyx and Aladdin. I have twice
been privileged to pay a visit here in the busy
month of April. I call it to myself a " tuning up."
From a show point of view I always say that Mr.
Crosfield's judgment is " concert pitch." Texture
and refinement come first with him — then colour
and size. This is why he thinks so much of
Willonyx, a very smooth and very refined Giant
Leedsii (4 inches by ij inches by i inch), and
Aladdin, an exquisite bicolor incomparabihs,
equally chaste (4 inches by li inches by ij inches).
They are, he tells you, precursors of a new type,
which in time is destined to monopolise the show'-
board. Remembering how lengthy has been
the evolution of the Tulip, he is probably right.
Many of the fiowers of to-day will be to the flowers
of the future what Crosfield's exhibit of fifty at
Birmingham in igo2 is to his winning collection
in Class i in London in 1913.

How well I remember that time. It is for me
an oasis in the past. I actually beat him then.
Jacob was placed fourth and Crosfield fifth. When
I look back and think of it, I feel as if I had had
the distinction of bowling Grace. Since then how
he has gone ahead ! Full speed ! His first Daffodil
seeds were sown in 1898, when he lived at Lymm
in Cheshire. There were 127 in all, of which
ninety were Mme. de Graaff and Weardale, crossed
both ways. When he moved to Wrexham in
igoi, these were, naturally, taken great care of,
and in due course bloomed, with results which
must have surprised him at the time, and which
probably do even more so now he can look back
on them with accumulated experience. The
very first to bloom was the beautiful Countess
of Stamford, to be followed later on by Banzai,
Lolah, Indamora, Catriona, Maid Marian, Mrs.
Ernest Crosfield and Herod, a truly marvellous
lot to come from a first attempt. Times have
dianged since then. In the fifteen years that
have elapsed, Mr. Crosfield has given us many
magnificent flowers.

One gets to know what the public likes best,
but I am always curious to know what a raiser
thinks his best. Here, then, is Mr. Crosfield's
list : Five crosses — GvTfalcon, a splendid Giant
Leedsii, having height of stem, size and regularity
of flower, and robustness of constitution all com-
bined. The white of the perianth has a distinctly
green tinge when compared with others. Measure-
ment, 4 J inches by ij inches by a quarter of an
inch. Four crosses — Premier, Her Ladyship and
Elite. Had I been the raiser, Premier would have
changed places with Gyrfalcon. That wonderful

row of superli giant incomparabilises acted as a
loadstone all the time of my visit. Again and
again I found myself there looking at the shapely
vellow blooms. The large cup is a deep pure
yellow, and the perianth, whicli is very smooth
and overlapping, of a paler shade. I put my rule
over an average-sized flower, and found it was
4j inches by ij inches by i| inches. Her Ladyship
is a Giant Leedsii, and Elite a " much larger and
a much better Susan." Three crosses — Empire,
Challenger, Touchstone, Imperial, Charles Surface,
Coquette, Ring Dove, Mowgli and Orb. I cannot
remember having seen Coquette exhibited, but
all the others, w'ith the exception of Imperial,
have appeared in public. Imperial marks Cros-
field's high-water mark in yellow trumpets ;
4 J inches by li inches by if inches. At its best
it will take a lot of beating. Two crosses — Pixie,
Firetail, Anchcmte and Phantasy. While I am
on the subject of records, it will be of interest
if I give the names of the fifty exhibited at Birming-
ham in 1902, which date and occasion mark the
entrance of my good friend into the competitive
life of the Daffodil fraternity — Emperor, Katherine
Spurrell, Sir Watkin, Mme. Plenip, M. J. Berkeley,
J. B. M. Camm, Horsfieldii, Sampson, Goliath,
Minnie Hume, W. Wilks, Mme. de Graaff, Glory
of Leiden, Dorothy Yorke, Gem, General Murray,
Mrs. Walter Ware, Shakespeare, Mrs. J. B. M.
Camm, Almira, Lucifer, Nelsonii major, Weardale,
Barri conspicuus, Beatrice, John Bain, Sensation,
Beatrice Heseltine, Princess Mary, Citron, Crown
Prince, Commodore, Mrs. M. Crosfield, Flora
Wilson, Beauty, William Goldring, Waterwitch,
Frank Miles, J. Davidson, Peach, Stella superba,
Victoria, Nelsonii aurantius, Mrs. Langtry, Auto-
crat, Princess of Wales, C. W. Cowan, W. P. Milner,
Prince George and Duchess of Westminster. Good
flowers still many of them, but not one quite good
enough for him to stage now. Tempus edax
reriim.

Now for a bit about the internal economy of
Cossington at Daffodil-time. The actual work of
conveying the pollen from one flower to another
is done by Tomlinson, the head-gardener. He
works to a plan, which has been carefully prepared
bv Mr. Crosfield the previous summer. If such
a list were not made, it would be impossible to
know- what bulbs of late varieties to pot up so
as to have the pollen ready for the early-flowering
seed parents ; and, secondly, by it he is able to
avoid repeating altogether the crosses of one
season the next. The cutting for show is always
done by Mr. Crosfield himself. From that moment
until they are safely landed on the show stage
he watches over each flower with unremitting
attention. The Uttle upstairs room in the outhouse
is constantly visited, the light is adjusted as
frequently as circumstances require it, and the
proper degree of humidity kept up. Every now
and again some are brought into the drawing-room
to get a stronger light or greater warmth. Once
when I was there a sudden fall in the temperature
occurred. " In a jiffy " every one of us was
as busv as a bee conveying the precious vases
to the genial warmth of the linen-room, w*ere
they were examined in detail by Mrs. Crosfield
and her sister and dealt with accordingly. It
showed me the pains that are, and must be, taken
to get together a good collection of blooms for the
show day. I do not think anyone can beat " E. M."
as a preparer for show. He seems to know
instinctively what to do with each variety, but it
is really the knowledge born of observation and
practice, for like an experienced runner who

knows himself, and never slackens until the tape
is breasted, he gets all he c\n out of each indi-
vidual flower. A last reference must be to the
drawing-room. What it is at other times I know
not, but in April it is a regular Daffodil bower.
The blooms are here, there and everywhere. Vases
of the very choicest varieties cheek by jowl
with more ordinary ones. A Tom Tidler's
ground, whence the Bourne Cup blooms of 1911
came. Such a wealth of flowers that no Tulip
feast of a Turkish Sultan can have been more
glorious. Plenty to look at for hours if the day
should be wet. It is a reflection, or rather an
April embodiment, of the spirits of the two genii
of the place in their busy spring season, for, like
the drawing-room, they are " all Daffodils " then,
whatever they may be during the remaining twelve
months. Joseph Jacob.

REGISTRATION OF NEW
PLANTS.

In conformity with the decisions arrived at by the
International Congress of the International Union
of Professional Horticulturists, which met at
Luxemburg in 1911, in London in 1912 and at
Ghent in 1913, a bureau for the registration
of new plants has been formed, to commence
in the summer of 1913, under the management of
the general secretary of the Union. This bureau
is formed for the purpose of making an official
list (origin, classification and description) of new
varieties of all kinds of plants, and to establish a
right of priority, according to the dates of demand
for registry given by the growers themselves.
The raisers of new varieties of plants should
therefore address the list of their novelties for
the term 1913-14 to M. van Lennep, Secretaire
Generel de 'I' Union Horticole Professionel Inter-
nationele, 15 Molenstraat, The Hague, Holland,
who will acknowledge reception acco ,iing to the
order of their arrival, and state the number under
which the new varieties are entered in the official
register.

In order to make the descriptions simple and
precise, and after the experience gained by the
attempt of last year, it has been resolved that
the descriptions shall not exceed three lines. The
exact name of the species to which the novelty
belongs should be mentioned, as well as the section
of the species in which it is to be found. For
example, if it refers to a Rose tree, give (i) the
words " Rose tree " ; {2) if it refers to a hybrid of the
Tea Rose, write the words "Tea Hybrid" (or a
suitable abbreviation) before the name of the
new variety. Proceed in the same way with all
other species. If possible, give the description
in three languages — French, English and German-
each description not to exceed three lines. If
the grower himself does not give the trans-
lations, the general secretary will not be obliged
to do the same. For this first year a registration
fee of two francs only has been fixed for each new
variety, with the right of (1) being entered in
order on the Register ; (2) being transcribed on
the Bulletin of the U.H.P.I. ; (3) to the probable
publication by the professional horticultural organs
belonging to affiliated associations after their
publication in the Bulletin of the Union. For
the following term ol 1914-15 supplementary
charges will be fixed for the work occasioned by
the last two reports foUowuig the decision that
will be taken by the next Congress.

fiW^-

GARDEN.

-^Br=

S^^O^^'^

No. 2183.— Vol. LXXVII.

September 20, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes of ihk Wkkk 489

CORRESI'OSnENCE

Dutilour FiK< . . . . 470
JIiuip ;i I li'iiiiiis as a

h.-ilclMi;; pNiiit . . 470
.\ gixnl I'cdUingllosc 470
■]'hi^ Mu.-k plant . . 470
iMatrirar!a cxiniea

Silvi-r UaU,. .. 471
Unso E t oi I c do

France . . . . 471
Colour combinations 471
The bc>t beading

Koscs 471

Inllucncc of nrti-

fli-i;il manures oil

vegetables , . . . 471
forthcoming events.. 471

KOSE liAKDES

The best white Kose
for hediiinq . . 471

.Some t:oo(l late-
llowerins. flark-
coloured lioses,. 471

GR.\FTI.\(1 TUEES ANli

SHUUBS 472

Flower G.\rde.\'
The Campanulas or
Bclltlowers.. .. 473
Rock and Water Oaruen
tihrnbs for the rock
garden . . . . 473

Rock asp Water caruen
A dwarf Ox-eye

Daisy 474

Saxifrflga burseriana 4f4

Trees and Shrths

A beautiful wall

shrub 475

Wh.\t is a Florist's

Flower ? . . . . 475
Kitchen Garden

The outdoor Mush-
room-bed . . . . 476
New and Kare

Plants 470

Gardening for Beginners
Itooting cuttings
under hand-lights 477
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 478

For Northern gar-
dens 478

Daffodil Notes . . 479
Daffodils in New

Zealand 479

Trials of Antir-
rhinums -« Wisley 480
.Answers to Corre-
spond e n t s
Flower garden . . 480
Trees and shrubs ,. 4^0

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Rose Lady Alice :>tanley in a reader's garden . . . . 470

Grafting trees and shrubs 472

Campanula jiananiea hirsuta 473

The (lw:trf but long lived Ox-eye Daisy 47J

Ceanothus thyrsiHorus in a Buckinghamshire garden 475

The new A?ter Fidthara Bine 476

Hooting cuttings uiuier handlights 477

HDITORIAIi NOTICBS.

Every department ot horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

Th^ Editor urJcomeg photographs, articles and notes,
bnt he will not be icsponsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and v:kere stamps
are enclosed, he uill endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

.is regards photographs, if payment be dcxired, the Editor
asks tfiat the price required for reproduction be plainlu stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or ouner of the c^tpyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not tic responsible for the return of aitistic
or literary c,'}*Uributions which fie may not be able to use. and
the receipt of a proof mu^t not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. I'ullication in THE GARDEN will alone
be recognised us acceptance.

Ojpces : 20. Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

Potatoes Free From Disease. — in the monthly

repcirt just issued by the Board of Agriculture,
mention is made of the fact that Potatoes are
remarkably free from disease this year. This is
no doubt due to the dry weather that was ex-
perienced during July, when damp conditions,
occasioned by thundery weather, usually prevail.
Owing to the drought, the tubers generally are
small, and the yield is likely to be below the
average.
The Cornish Heath (Erica vagans). — This

deliHlitful Heath, almnd.'uit on the moors of
Cornwall, is now flowering to perfection in many
gardens where Heaths are treasured. It forms a
neat bush less than a foot in height, which at this
season is covered with purplish red flowers. There
is a white form of the Cornish Heath which is
quite as showy as the type, and both are admirably
suited for massing in those gardens where Heather
and other peat-loving subjects are known to
thrive.

Rudbeckias or Cone-Flowers.— .\t the present

time m.any herbaceous borders are gay with these
flowers. There are the annual ones in their golden
and brown hues, of which Rudbeckia amplexicaulis,
R. bicolor superba, R. b. Solfatara and R. Drum-
mondi are some of the best. Then, among the
perennial ones we have R. Newmanii, R. laciniatus
flore pleno and R. Herbstsonne. The last named
is without doubt the best of them all. Its large,
bright yellow flowers are borne on stems 5 feet to
6 feet high above the dark green foliage, and it
is in every way a very desirable plant for the flower
garden.

Rose Aimee Vibert. — There are not many
varieties of Roses that flower more freely or are
more serviceable in a garden than this one. Plants
look well on arches and pillars, as well as on walls.
If properly trained at first, it sosn forms a grand
bush in the open parts of the garden, and looks
charming when pegged dowTi in borders near paths.
It is a very hardy variety. One large specimen
we know withstood very severe frosts for nearly
twenty years in the North Midlands without being
damaged and without any protection being
afforded. The large white flowers, very pare,
arc borne in clusters, and are shown to great advan-
tage by their setting of deep green leaves, which
remain on the branches a long time.

Planting Fritillaries. — Some of the Fritillaries
may perhaps be classed among the plants that
are looked upon as more curious than beautiful.
,\t the same time, the well-known Crown Imperial
(Fritillari 1 imperiaUs) is one of the best of our garden
plants, and is excellent for the shrubbery or on
the margins of beds of shrubs. The dwarfer
ones from Asia Minor, such as F. citrina,
F. Whittallii, F. aurea, F. armena and others,
are excellent for the rock garden. The Snake's-

head (F. Meleagris), which is occasionally found
wild in this country, and its varieties are ideal
subjects for naturalising in grass, and give a
very charming effect with their mottled, droop-
ing flowers. Bulbs of all should be planted
now.

A Valuable Viola. — What a charming, free-
fliowcring plant is Viola Papilio, bearing in great
profusion the whole summer through its beautiful
flowers, which are of various shades of blue, and
look like so many butterflies flitting in the wind.
It is often called a variety of V. comuta, but why
it is rather difficult to say, for it certainly bears
no resemblance to that well-known species as
far as the appearance of the flowers is concerned,
and that is undoubtedly what one would go by in
this case. After all, it is immaterial what its history
maybe ; it is quite a gem for the garden. It can
be readily raised from seed, and if sown now would
produce good plants that would flower all next
summer, or it may be sown in the spring, when it
would commence to flower later.

Delphinium grandiflorum Cineraria. — The type

of this beautiful plant is fairly well known, and is
very attractive when grown in masses ; but where
possible the variety Cineraria should be procured,
for its intense blue spikes are most conspicuous.
It is unlike many Delphiniums on account of the
flowers being upright, and entirely devoid of the
spur which is characteristic of the majority.
The spikes are produced from June to September,
and they come tolerably true from seed, although,
as most growers are aware, a slight variation will
be evident from a large batch of seedlings. They
grow from 18 inches to 24 inches high, and will
thrive in any ordinary garden soil. We recently
saw a fine batch in a nursery, and were impressed
by the beautiful effect produced.
Pretty Floral Combinations. — Some uncommon,

yet at the same time extremely pleasing, floral
combinations arc to be seen in Battersea Park,
whose long-standing reputation for the excellence
of its summer bedding is this season well upheld.
Numerous striking effects may be noted, and of
them the following appeal strongly to many :
.A bed of splendid examples of the rich-coloured
Lobelia cardinalis Queen Victoria, alternated with
standards of Veronica .Andersonii variegata. Mixed
throughout the bed are a few examples of the
charming blue Salvia patens, the whole being
edged with a bright blue Lobelia. An extremely
mixed yet charming arrangement is a bed carpeted
with a mauve-coloured Viola and edged with.
Fuchsia Golden Treasure, pegged down. Dotted
over the Viola are standard plants of Veronica
Andersonii variegata and fairly tall examples of
Heliotrope, Gnaphalium microphyllum and Fuchsia
Andenkcn an Henrich Henkel, this last being in
better condition than one often meets with it.
As a contrast to these mixtures is a bed solely of
Pelargonium Galilee, both dwarf plants and tall
standards being used.

470

THE GARDEN.

iSeptember 20, 191?.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible lor the opinions
expressed by cirrcspondenls.)

Outdoor Figs. — To grow these satisfactorily
outside, the roots must be restricted. They should
be first potted into 12-inch pots and plunged below
the rim of the pot, the hole in the 'bottom being
previously made larger for the roots to get through.
They are here plunged in a narrow border 3 feet
wide and 18 inches deep and trained on a south-
west wall, and the sun at this time
of the year does not reach them till
noon. They are now ripening a
fine crop of good-sized fruit, the
variety being Brown Turkey,
planted three years ago. In such
a dry summer as this they take
an abundance of water. Neither
is it necessary to cover them up
in winter. Excellent fruit may be
had from trees on an east wall fully
exposed to the weather. — A. B.
Wadds, EngleficldGardens, Reading.

A Good Bedding Rose. — I am

greatly indebted to those readers
who have so kindly given their
experiences with Rose Irish Ele-
gance in your last two issues.
I am now sending you a photo-
graph of what I consider to be
the finest bedding or garden Rose
of recent introduction, viz.. Lady
Alice Stanley. The photograph
was taken about the middle of
August, and therefore shows a
bush bearing its second crop of
flowers. Ever since the third
week in June this bush has not
been without blooms, and as these
are large, of good shape, erect
and fragrant, they are , always
admired. The colour is -silvery
pink, with the, reverse of the petals
glowing soft rose. , The bush has
an ideal, compact habit, and the
large, tough, leathery leaves appear
to be quite mildew-proof. Perhaps
other readers will kindly relate
their experiences with this Rose,
andmarac what they consider to be
the best bedding Rose introduced
during the last six years.^A. B.
Essex.
Humea elegans as a Bedding

Plant. — This Australian biennial is
now frequently used for bedding
out during the summer months, and
well-grown plants are, when pro-
perly grouped, very effective in the
open garden. In this way, when
fully exposed to light and air, the
numerous feathery inflorescences
acquire a much richer tone of colour than when they
are kept in a greenhouse or conservatory. At Hamp-
ton Court, where this Humea is always well done, a
large and very effective bed is planted with Cannas,
above which tower a number of good examples of this
Humea, sufficiently apart from each other to display
the charms of each, yet near enough to form one
harmonious whole. Seed of this Humea sown
in the summer will furnish plants for the next
year. They need careful watering, especially in
the winter.— H. P.

Growing Spring-Flowering Bulbs in Fibre. —

There arc doubtless a large number of your readers
who take great interest in this subject, and who,
like myself, are not the possessors of a greenhouse
and have to rely upon a sunny window to produce
their flowers. The space there is naturally very
limited, and will not permit very many bowls to
be placed in the necessary sunlight. I recognise
that growing bulbs in fibre gives excellent results
for one year, but the bulbs are practically useless
for the same purpose for a second time ; therefore
I know it will be no waste to spoil a bulb grown

.-^DY ALICE STANLEY IN A READER S GARDEN
PHOTOGRAPH WAS TAKEN IN AUGUST.

in this manner .ifter the flower has faded, so, to
counteract my want of space, I get two crops
out of each bowl each season. I use bowls of
rather large size, and plant good bulbs in the usual
way as early as possible. My favourite combi-
nation is white Hyacinths La Grandesse and
double Tulips Murillo. I plant the Hyacinths
first, near the edgel and in between the Hyacinths,
and also near the edge, I plant a Tulip. I also plant
two or three Tulips in the middle of the bowl,
but am careful not to overcrowd it. I grow

them in the usual way, and in due time the
Hyacinths come into bloom. .As soon as they
are past their best, I cut their stalks off level with
the bulb, and level the fibre again to prevent them
showing. By this time the Tulips, which are up
to then slower in growth, are about an inch above
the surface, but after the Hyacinths are cut away
they develop much quicker, and in a few weeks
come into bloom. I have grown a large number
of flowers in this way. Tulips, Hyacinths, Narcissi,
Daffodils, Crocuses, &c., but to my taste there
is none to approach the exquisite beauty of a bowl
of these Murillo Tulips, with their
huge white and pink double flower?,
which continue in bloom for quite
a long time. There are other com-
binations which will readily occur
to your readers, such as early Nar-
cissi, Daffodils, &c., used in connec-
tion with this beautiful Tulip, but
I do not wish to get a better one
than that here mentioned. —
Harrv p. Bovce, Bristol.

The Musk Plant.— While tie
present expressions of opinion are
being given concerning the scent of
the Musk plant, it may not be in-
appropriate to call attention to a
wider use of this beautiful old garden
subject — I mean as distinct from the
usual method of growing it in pots.
This year it is being used in some
of the parks as a groundwork for
Clarkias, and about eighteen months
or so back I recorded in The
Garden our use of Musk as a car-
peting for a batch of Linum rubrum,
wliich combination gave a very
pretty effect. Apart from these two
examples, I have never seen nor
heard of it being so utilised. Some-
how or other the method of culti-
vating the Musk has always seemed
to belong to the flower-pot for the
greenhouse or the window-sill. But,
I am bold to assert, it is well
adapted for a larger service in the
outside garden, and this whether it
possesses fragrance or not. This
year we have a length of Musk
bordering a row of Sweet Peas, and
some between a few plants of
Damask Roses, and in both cases
the effect has been pleasing. Musk
does best in a moist or partially-
shaded position, and where such
conditions can be observed it would
make a good bordering subject
besides its use as a carpeting plant
as alluded to above. It further
makes a suitable plant for masking
rough, damp corners of rockeries.
.\ word about the scent of Musk.
What we have growing in this gar-
den is not by any means so riclily scented as was
some we used to grow in a West of England garden
a number of years ago. But what we have is faintly
fragrant, as I have proved to-day (September i>
diu-ing a gentle rainfall. Is it not possible that
there has got abroad a spurious type of Musk ?
I have little doubt but what the genuine old
sweet Musk is still to be found in country
cottage gardens or in the windows, where it is
always prized and tended so carefully. — Charles
Turner, Ken View Garden, Highgate.

September 20, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

471

Matricaria eximea Silver Ball. — This attractive

annual is a very t"ittnig companion to M. e. Golden
Ball. It possesses the floriferousness and compact
habit of the latter, and is rather taller. With
me it only attains a height of about nine inches.
I have, however, seen it in another garden this
summer, and it had there attained a height of
some fifteen inches. This is all the more curious
as the seed was supplied by the same firm (a leading
one), and my neighbour's plants were not shaded
in any way ; nor were they, to all appearance,
gro\vn in richer soil than ours. As I intend to use
this plant in a colour-scheme next season, I would
be glad if some of your readers would say what
height the plant attains with them. For the benefit
nf those who do not know this annual, I should
say that its colour is a creamy white. — Caledonia.
Rose Etoile de France. — In reply to Mr. C.

Lemesle Adams, whose query appears on page 442.
I have grown Etoile de France from the first, and
largely, too. It has always come good here late
in the season, and I invariably write and speak
as I find. Looking over a number of Rose lists,
I find none which complains of it in any way. It
partakes of both parents — Mme. Abel Chatenay
and Fisher Holmes — and although rather a bad
opener in very wet or cold weather, we have many
others much worse in that respect. Mine are upon
the Briar stock, and in an ordinary light loam. I
find it best when not overfed, and perhaps your
correspondent might do better if he follows this hint.
He is the first and only Rose-grower who has hinted
to me that Victor Hugo was " not a thoroughly
good doer." What say others ? — A. P., Uckfield.

Colour Combinations. — Two flowers of very
different orders and character are these I am now
thinking of, yet they formed one of the daintiest
and most charming combinations it is possible to
imagine. In front of a large bed of dwarf Lavender
were planted, fairly thickly, pink Rhodanthes, these
latter, now flowering, not being quite so high as
the Lavender. As one walks up to these beds from
a distance, the effect is simple and exquisite.
The soft daintiness of the rosy pink blends admirably
with the hazy Lavender, and the whole seems
I arried beyond until lost in misty blue. Such is
the poetry of colour ; to another it may seem
nothing more than a pinky blue. Yet another,
this time decidedly more pronounced, the colours
more vivid, less dainty, but not less charming, an
excellent strain of Nemesia strumosa, with all the
varied colours of this splendid annual. Planted in
early June, being used as a groundwork, just a few
seeds of Nigella Miss Jekyll were scattered broad-
cast after the planting. These have now opened a
few flowers, just one here and there, and nothing
could be more suitable as a setting to the blue,
surrounded by the Fennel-like green, than the golden
variedness of the Nemesia. Last year I saw a
beautiful blending of Heliotrope and Musk. The
Musk was the groundwork, and was finely flowered.
Above the yellow were shapely plants of the common
Heliotrope dotted over the whole bed, with just
sufficient low standard Heliotropes of the same
variety to carry the whole into a billow of perfect
harmony. — H. R.

The Best Bedding Roses. — I agree with Mr.
Adams m your issue of September 6 regarding
Etoile de France. I cannot think how " A. P. "
could recommend such a Rose. I grant at times
it is superb, but generally it "blues" so badly
as to quite ban it from our gardens, at least in any
quantity. A far better variety would be ChSteau
de Clos Vougeot, although somewhat erratic in
growth, a fault that could be remedied in a few

minutes by the aid of some imobtrusive sticks.
What a glorious colour it is, and never a sign of
burning, be it glaring hot for days. Another
splendid dark Rose is Francois Coppee, a Hybrid
Perpetual, but very free. I saw this very fine in
the Public Rose Garden at Lyons last May, and
M. Pemet-Ducher informs me it was one of the
parents of Chateau de Clos Vougeot. Another
fine dark Rose will be Edward Mawley ; although
somewhat inclined to " blue," yet it opens freely,
and one can readily remove the oldest flowers. As
regards scarlets, I should place Mrs. Edward Powell
or Leuchtfeuer far in front of George C. Waud,
which cannot be called scarlet, and, moreover,
its growth is not always reliable. I have no fault
to find with the yellows, excepting that " A. P."
has omitted four of the best, viz., Lady Hillingdon,
Jeaime Philippe, Melody and Paula. Then, again,
who will want Mrs. Sharman Crawford with its
mildew tendency, when they can have such glorious
Roses as Lady Alice Stanley, Margaret and Coimtess
of Shaftesbury ? Why Mme. Abel Chatenay was
omitted I cannot conceive. By judicious pruning and
partially pegging domi one or two shoots it cannot
be surpassed as a pink bedder, and Mme. Segond
Weber is far ahead of Killamey. — Danecroft,
Influence of Artificial Manures on Vegetables.

Speaking about our Celery the other day, my
employer remarked that a friend who had called
a few days previously had told him that he grew
all his Celery without the help of animal manure,
but relied entirely on artificials, such as super-
phosphate, c&c, because he found the quality
of the Celery was much superior when the animal
manure was omitted and only artificials used.
This statement quite upset all our previous ideas
on this matter, it having always been our opinion
that instead of improving the quality of vegetables,
the use of artificials always had a detrimental
influence on their quality. We are quite aware
that such manures very considerably increase
the size and bulk of many crops, but that is an
altogether different matter from the quality.
Further, it has been our experience that the use
of artificials has an adverse influence on the keeping
properties of many vegetables, especially Onions,
which will rarely keep till February if they have
been subjected to liberal doses of artificial manures
during their period of growth. In agriculture,
too, we are all familiar with the baneful influence
on the quality of hay which has been treated with
nitrate of soda. Potatoes also often suffer from
the same cause, and we are afraid many garden
vegetables are also injuriously affected by a too
generous application of chemical manures. One
great danger lies in the ease with which it can be
applied, as a few handfuls of concentrated manure
can so easily be scattered, whereas a similar number
of barrow-loads of animal manure requires more
muscle to get it incorporated with the soil. However,
we would be glad to know the views of some of
your experienced correspondents on this important
point. — W. L.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

FORTHCOMING EVE NT S.

September 22. — National Chrysanthemum So-
ciety's Executive and Floral Committees Meeting.

September 23. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Meeting and Vegetable Show.

September 24. — North of England Horticultural
Society's Show at Kendal (two days).

September 25. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Show of British-grown Fruit (two days).

September 26. — .'\nnual Conference of Affiliated
Mutual Improvement Societies at the Royal
Horticultural Society's Hall, Westminster.

THE BEST WHITE ROSE FOR
BEDDING.

IN reference to the note by Mr. H. E. Molyneux
on page ^ i^, have those of your readers
who have hitherto been disappointed with
Frau Karl Druschki as a bedder ever
tried the plan of annual lifting ? With
me it is a great success, and I still think
it the best of all the snow white Roses for
massing. The plants should be lifted early in
November, their roots trimmed back, and also the
growths shortened to about two feet, then replanted
in the same position or in a new place if preferred.
Do not over-manure this Rose and there will be a
glorious display of bloom next summer. Of
course, it is best to do this lifting right from the
commencement ; that is to say, after plants have
been established twelve months, lift them again ;
but it may be carried out even with plants estab-
lished three or four years. Another important
point is to secure the plants on the seedling Briar
stock. The Manetti is a hateful stock, for it and
the Briar cutting produce the growths far too rank.
Apart from Frau Karl Druschki there are no
pure white Roses to surpass Mrs. Herbert Stevens
and Molly Sharman Crawford, and after due con-
sideration I give my preference to Mrs. H. Stevens.
It is true it is inclined to droop ; but in late summer
the plants send up grand basal shoots that are fairly
erect. There are numbers of Roses that have a
white effect in the mass, such as Mrs. D. McKee,
but they are not pure white, and there is still room
for a good snow white bedder. I think we have it
in Messrs. S. McGredy's Florence Forrester. This
is a grand Rose as I saw it at Portadown recently,
and, I should say, far superior to Mrs. Andrew
Carnegie in texture of petal. In spite of Mr.
Molyneux's remark about Simbmrst, I would advise
all your readers to have it, for it is a " great " Rose,
and if it gives some whitish flowers early, are they
not of exquisite form and substance ? I have just
cut a bloom of Sunburst from a shot-out bud of this
year's working that rivalled any golden Rose seen
this year, and this not of my own opinion, but of
many experts who saw the bloom. W. E.

SOME GOOD LATE -FLOWERING,
DARK-COLOURED ROSES.

With the present abundance of light-coloured
Teas and Hybrid Teas, also such grand autumnal
pinks from the Hybrid Perpetuals as Mrs. John
Laing, Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford and the
invaluable white Frau Karl Druschki, we are in
need of a few extra dark flowers as a complete
contrast. The following are half-a-doren varieties
that I can confidently recommend for late use,
although all of them are also good throughout the
season. Victor Hugo will take a lot of beating
for many years to come yet, and it has been with
us almost thirty years (1884). A very glowing
and brilliant crimson, shaded vrith maroon and
pm-ple. Always of good form, holds its foliage
well and thoroughly appreciates liberal treatment.
This is quite one of the best from the many good
Roses M. Schwartz has given us. Ben Cant favours
this variety rather, but is not so deep and clear
in its maroon shadings. It is, however, a much
stronger grower and very sweetly scented, also
a gold medal winner. Fisher Holmes has been a
prime favourite of mine for many years. It was
given to us as long ago as 1865, and only the other
day one of the greatest Rose-growers asked me what

m

THE GARDEN.

[September 20 1913.

could beat it as an all-round dark variety. A
very beautifully-formed flower, both early and
late, sweet scented, a capital grower, and one that
lasts well. Mme. Victor Verdier is another old
friend of mine (1863). A clear crimson of beautiful
form, exquisite perfume and always a good autumnal
sort when well established. These four belong to
the Hybrid Perpetual section, and when grown upon
the Briar stock in any form are to be preferred
as late bloomers to plants upon the Manetti or on
their own roots. J. B. Clark, a gold medal Hybrid
Tea, comes better in the autumn than at any other
time with me. It is a large, well-formed flower
nf the deepest scarlet, shaded with blackish crimson
and carrying a rich. Plum-like bloom upon the
petals. A very vigorous grower and quite distinct.
Chateau de Clos Vougeot is a free but rather
erratic grower. Flowers a deep velvety scarlet
of great intensity, shaded with a clear, fiery red.
As the bloom ages it comes a dark velvety crimson
and maroon. The best dark Rose to stand sun that
I am acquainted with. It never burns. A. P.

GRAFTING TREES AND
SHRUBS.

WHILE most trees and shrubs thrive
on their own roots, and may be
propagated by seeds, cuttings or
layering, there are a few which,
for various reasons, it is neces-
sary to bud or graft. This is
particvilarly the case with varieties which do not
produce seeds, or do not reproduce themselves true
from seeds even when seed ripens. Waterer's Scarlet
Oak, Quercus coccinea variety splendens, may be
cited as an example. This also will not root from
cuttings, and as layering requires ample materia! to
peg the layers down, the usual method of pro-
pagating this and other Oaks is by grafting. While
every gardener should he thoroughly conversant

with the art and craft of grafting, it is possible to
carry the practice too far, e.g., to graft good sorts
of Lilac, using the Privet as a stock, when layering
forms a ready means of increasing them, and they
will also root from cuttings. In Continental
nurseries, grafting is a very popular method of
propagation, it being, in many instances, a more
rapid method of increase than either cuttings or
budding.

In large tree and shrub nurseries, grafting under
glass proceeds almost without interruption through-
out the year, with, of course, a very busy season
from January to April. This is not surprising when
we consider the vast number and great variety of
trees and shrubs grown in a representative collection.

AN OAK STOCK ON THE LEFT. WITH THE SAME CUT DOWN READY FOR
CRAFTING ON THE RIGHT. THE SCION IN THE CENTRE IS PRE-
PARED READY FOR FIXING TO THE STOCK.

THE RHODODENDRON AND OAK GRAFTED AND
TIED IN POSITION.

Under glass also the proper
period for grafting is more or
less elastic within a reasonable
time, and can be done when
sufficient wood is available for
scions, which is generally the
most important consideration
with new trees and shrubs. The
month of September and early
October are preferred by many
growers to early spring for
grafting Oaks, a larger per-
centage of successes being ob-
tained. The Oak or Quercus
family is such a large one that
no one kind of stock can be
found to suit them all. The
common Oak, Quercus peduncu-
lata, is, naturally, largely used ;
but for the American Oaks, the
Red Oak, Q. rubra, is more suit-
able. Then, for the evergreen
species and varieties, the Holm
Oak, Q. Ilex, or the Turkey
Oak, Q. Cerris, should be
used.

A few Rhododendrons graft
more satisfactorily in autumn
than spring, notably R.
campylocarpum and its hybrids
or varieties. In the case of new

A RHODODENDRON STOCK PREP-\RED FOR GRAFT-
ING IN A POT, WITH UNPREPARED SCION
ON THE LEFT AND PREPARED SCION ON
THE RIGHT.

and scarce sorts, some of the young growths made
during the past summer may be utilised, and a
period of six months gamed. The common purple
Rhododendron, R. ponticum, is the stock usually
favoured, though, if available, the variety Cunning-
ham's White may be employed. For the more
tender indoor sorts, the Himalayan species,
R. arboreum, is used. To graft a large percentage
of stocks successfully is no mean undertaking.
In addition to a sharp knife, a suitable stock and
scion, it requires considerable skill, which is only
obtained by practice, to cut and fit the stock and
scion together correctly, afterwards tying them in.
For grafting under glass, the stocks should have
been potted up some time previously, and be
established in the pots. The scions should only be
taken from healthy trees. There are several styles
or methods of grafting, two of the most important
— splice or whip grafting and side-grafting — being
illustrated. It is desirable to have the wood ot
the stock and scion about the same size ; but when
this cannot be secured, the scion must be placed
on one side of the cut, so that the cambium of both
stock and scion comes in contact on one side. If
a small scion be placed in the centre of a large
stock, no union can take place, as the inner woods
never unite. In the large illustration an Oak stock
is shown suitable for grafting, and a second with
the top cut off, or headed down (to use a familiar
phrase), ready for splice-grafting. The style of
grafting illustrated in the case of the Rhododen-
dron is known as side-grafting. In this the scion
is placed on the side, leaving a portion of the
growth of the stock to draw up the sap. This
method is also adopted for Oaks, being quite as
satisfactory as the splice or whip grafting, and is even
more successful when the scion is smaller than the
stock. After fixing in position, tie the stock and
scion firmly with raffia or other suitable material.
To hold the scion in position more securely, particu-
larly when it is smaller than the stock, a little
tongue is made at the base of the cut on the stock,
into which the bottom of the scion will fit. Under
glass, in a close frame, it is not necessary to use
graftuig wax or clay to exclude air from the union

September 20,

1913-

THE GARDEN.

473

and prevent loss of moisture. It is very desirable
to place on the graft as soon as the stock is cut, and
not allow the sap to dry. In due course it will be
noticed that a " callus " is forming round the edge
of the scion where it touches the stock. The
tying material must then be removed and retied
less tightly. A considerable number of conifers
and Yews are also grafted in autumn, the general
rule being to use the common and easily-grown
sptcies of the genus as a stock for the rarer species
and varieties.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

THE CAMPANULAS OR BELL-
FLOWERS.

{Continued /roin page 446.)

C. Caucasica. — According to the late Mr. George
Nicholson, this is distinct from C. sibirica, to which
C. caucasica is referred by the " Index Kewensis."
Probably the real C. caucasica appears in a recent
catalogue as a new plant. It should be between six
inches and nine inches high, and have blue, droop-
ing flowers in small clusters in July. Loam, sand
and grit, or the moraine or wall.

C. cenisia. — Everyone who has tried this admits
that it is a troublesome species, though charming
in June with its open cups of brilliant blue. It
comes near C. Allioni, and is a plant for the
moraine. It is lovely there, as those who have
seen Mr. Reginald Farrer's plants can well testify.
C. oollina. — One of the best of its class and
taking after C. barbata, but differing in its free
growth and perennial nature. The absence of
the beard makes it less attractive than C. barbata,
but in other respects it is better. The large bells,
opening in May or June, are of a fine violet blue.
It is about a foot high, and can be grown well
even in the border in ordinary soil.

C. COlorata. — I am not aware that this Cam-
panula is in commerce, but it seems to matter
little, as it is only half-hardy. It comes from the
Sikkim Highlands, and has its blue flowers in
terminal and axillary racemes.

C. cristallocalyx. — This is practically a pooi
form of C. persicifolia, only included among the
rock species because it is often offered as such.
I see nothing in it to recommend. The flowers
are small and the plant not worth growing. June
and July.

C. Cymbalaria. — A scarce and neat Jime-
blooming alpine species about si.x inches high,
with pleasing blue flowers. Suited for the moraine
or the dry rock garden. Division or seeds.

C. dasycarpa. — Another rare little Campanula
some four inches or so high, and with pretty blue
flowers in Jime and July. A moraine or rock
plant for leaf-soil and sand. Seeds or division.

C. Elatines. — A very charming little Bell-
flower, some six inches high, with branching stems
of starry blue flowers from June to August. Suimy
crevices or the moraine. Division or seeds.

C. elatinoides. — -This much resembles the fore-
going and blooms at the same time, but is taller.
Both are very attractive to slugs, and are difficult
subjects save on the moraine.

C. ErinUS. — Authorities agree that the true
C. Erinus is a poor annual, but the plant known
in gardens as such is a dainty little June and July
flowering, dwarf garganica-like species, but infinitely
more refined. It has pleasing blue fjowers. There

is a lovely white variety, albus. Division. Best
in dry rockeries, moraine, or wall.

C. exolsa.— This is a queer little dwarf Bell-
flower only a few inches high, and having little
flowers, opening in June, which look as if a bit
had been eaten out of each segment. It is a trouble-
some plant except in the moraine, and nowhere
does it seem to thrive so well as at Wemiington
Hall, where Mrs. Saunders has it in moraines
with good soil beneath. Division or seeds. It
hates lime.

C. fragilis. — This is one of the same class as
garganica, grows about six inches high, is of trail-
ing habit, and has pretty light blue flowers from
June onwards. It is pleasing in the rockery,
moraine, or wall. The white form, alba, is very
charming. Division.

C. garganica. — Several Campanulas, all bloom-
ing from June onwards, might well be included

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

SHRUBS FOR THE ROCK GARDEN.

IN submitting the following list of shrubs
suitable for growing in the rock garden,
there are many excellent shrubs omitted,
as well as some included which may not
meet with the approval of the readers ol
The Garden. Possibly others will send
lists or state their views regarding the most suitable
subjects for this important phase of rock gardening,
and thereby help to bring before the gardening
public the best selection of plants for the purpose
under notice. Few will question the propriety
of associating shrubs with alpines, not only from
a spectacular point of view, but also for the bene-
ficial influence they have upon the alpines them-
selves. They afford just that amount of shade

C.\MP.\NULA GARGA.MICA HIRSUTA, A USEFUL, VARIETY FOR THE ROCK GARDEN.

among the forms of C. garganica, such as C. Erinus
of gardens, which by some is called C. g. compacta.
The type has glossy, crenated leaves and blue
flowers. Alba is a white variety. Hirsuta and
h. alba are forms with pubescent stems and leaves,
and less troubled by slugs than the others. Dry
rockeries or the moraine or wall. Division, or
seeds in the case of the type. C. fenestellata,
pale blue, looks like a form of C. garganica.

C. G. F. Wilson.— This hybrid, between C.
carpatica or C. turbinata and C. puUoides, is repre-
sented by two forms, both with deep blue semi-
pendent flowers. One has yellow and the other,
and better variety, green foliage, and they
were raised in the same garden. They are
only a few inches high and like a gritty soil
in the border, rock garden, or the moraine. A
little bone-meal is beneficial. Increased by
division. June. S. Arnott.

{To be continvfd.)

so necessary to the welfare of many, as well as
providing a measure of protection which may
sometimes be the means of tiding a tender subject
safely through the winter. And then they add
very considerably to the general appearance of
the rock garden, imparting a finished and graceful
look to what might otherwise appear naked and
bare. Drip is, of course, inimical to the welfare
of all alphies ; consequently every care must be
taken when planting shrubs to so place them that
they will not overhang the rock plants. A great deal
depends on the size of the rock garden in making
a selection of shrubs, as many that are suit-
able for a large rockery would look quite out of
place in one of smaller dimensions. This can to
a great extent be obviated by a judicious use of
the knife, as the majority of the shrubs included
in this list bear pruning quite well ; in fact, are
benefited by it. Many of the species mentioned
contain numerous beautiful varieties, which space

474

THE GARDEN.

[September 20, 1913.

forbids enumerating in detail. The original list
totalled eighty-nine species and varieties, and
as this had to be reduced to fifty, many beauti-
ful shrubs necessarily had very reluctantly to
be scored ofl. Regarding those enumerated, the
greater number are grown for the beautiful flowers
they produce, while a limited number are culti-
vated exclusively on account of their handsome
foliage. Among the latter the Acers occupy a
prominent place, their finely-cut and beautifully-
tinted leaves making them indispensable, while
Enkianthus japonicus, Rhus Cotinus and several
others produce charming leaf-colouring in autumn,
I have endeavoured to include in the list of fjowerinp
shrubs those varieties that will, as far as possible,
extend the flowering period throughout the greater
part of the year. Such precocious species as
Andromeda floribunda, Daphne blagayana, Erica
camea and Forsythia suspensa open their blossoms
before the snows of winter have melted ; while
late autumn is made gay with the handsome snowy
plumes of Hydrangea paniculata and the purple

Lavandula spica, Ledum Lyoni, Linneea borealis.
Magnolia grandiflora, Muehlenbeckia nana, Olearia
Haastii, Philadelphus (various), Pemettya mucro-
natus, Polygala Chamaebuxus, Rhus Cotinus,
Robinia hispida, Rosmarinus oflicinalis, Salix
(various), Santolina incana, Skimmia japonica,
Spartium junceum. Spiraea (various). Rhododen-
dron (various), Tamarix hispida. Thymus (various),
Vaccinium Vitis-idsa, Veronicas (various) and
Weigela (various).

Twelve Evergreen Shrubs.— Cupressus lawsoni-
ana filifera glauca, C. nana, Juniperus chinensis
aurea, J. hibemica, J. japonica aurea, J. tamarisci-
folia, Retinospora filifera aurea, R. obtusa alba,
R. o. nana aurea, R. plumosa argentea, Thuya
Occident alls minima and T. o. pygmea.

Ochilview, Bridge of Earn. William Little.

A DWARF OX-EYE DAISY.

Chrysanthemum fallens.
The large and beautiful forms of the Great Ox-eye
Daisy, C. maximum, are well known in every garden

THE DWARF BUT LONG-LIVED OX-EYE DAISY, CHRYSANTHEMUM FALLENS.

spikes of the Buddleias, such as Veitchii and
magnifica. In addition to the flowering shrubs,
I append a list of twelve dwarf evergreens,
which will be found especially interesting during
the winter months, when the majority of the others
have shed their foliage.

Fifty Suitable Shrubs. — Acer palmatum
(various), Andromeda (various), Arctostaphylos
Uva-irrsi, Azaleas (various), Berberis (various),
Bryanthus empetriformis, Buddleias (various),
Cistus (various), Comptonia asplenifolia, Cotoneaster
(various), Cytisus (various), Daboecia polifolia,
Daphne (various), Deutzia (various), Enkianthus
japonicus, Ephedra distachya. Erica (various),
Escallonia langleyensis, Eucryphia pinnatifolia,
Forsythia suspensa, Gaultheria procumbens,
Genista (various), Helianthemums (various).
Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora, Hypericum
(various), Iberis (various), Kalraia (various),

on account of their value as border plants and the
beauty and elegance of their flowers. Chrysan-
themum pallens, the plant here illustrated,
belongs to the same group, but it is of a
more perennial character. Unlike C. maxi-
mum, which is a short-lived plant, this species,
which is found over the greater part of Middle {
and Southern Europe, comes up year after year
and flowers freely. It has been in the same
position and undisturbed for many years. Com- j
pared with the other, the flowers may be a little |
smaller, but what they lack in size is made up for
in elegance and number. It is quite a desirable
plant for the rock garden, especially when grown
in poor soil so that there is no chance of it growing
too luxuriantly. It is of erect habit, the flowers
being held up well on stiff stems, a great advantage
when used as cut flowers. The members of this
large family are mainly border plants, few of them

being of sufficiently neat and attractive habit for
the rock garden. One of the smallest is the
Marguerite of the Alps, C, alpinum, a dainty little
plant with a cushion of foliage and pretty white
flowers throughout the summer. It grows well
in poor, stony soil well supplied with moisture,
but the slug is its greatest enemy, and many failures
with this plant are due to its ravages, W, I.

SAXIFRAGA BURSERIANA.

Does it Need Su.v or Shade ?
A LONG and hearty controversy raged, it may be
remembered, in The Garden last spring over the
shade-loving propensities of S. burseriana. From
that controversy I desisted, after a long letter from
Mr. Clarence Elliott (to whom I must, it seems,
apologise for saymg I " took " him to see S. bur-
seriana ; let me now, then, with equal truth and
greater decency, say that I had the delightful
honour of escorting him). I desisted, not from
any lack of matter for reply, but because I am
humble-minded ; and where that great
and good man so firmly puts down
his feet, I know there is little room
for humble ones to tread. None the
less, I nursed a belief that my memory
was at least as solid on the point as
his. Accordmgly, I lay low till occa-
sion offered, and then returned for con-
firmation to the Salurn Klamm, by
the very same train which took me
and Mr. Elliott there.

The result of all this, then, is that
I am able serenely to repeat my
original proposition. After a certain
amount of sun in the morning, the
whole of the Salurn Klamm is in the
shade of its great walls for the rest
of the day. The sunshine which Mr,
Elliott remembers was evidently (as
he so sweetly suggests) only that due
to my own presence — a most pleasant
testimony to my photophoric powers.
On the further point of the soil there
inhabited by S. burseriana, Mr. Elliott
must really revise his notions of
" scree," Let him return to culling
Thlaspi limosellaefolium in the Haut
Boreon to revive his memory of that
delicious compound. S. burseriana,
in the Salurn Klamm, is growing in
,1 dense limestone silt (I have said
this before ; I now say it again,
because it is so) which at its coarsest
only amounts to fine gravel, but is
usually of a packed consistency and minuteness,
scattering in a spray of whitish particles as up
comes a plant.

Finally, I must say, for my own part, that
S. burseriana itself, in my garden, declares the whole
discussion to be rather idle. Mr. Homibrook
(I think it was) so rightly protested against the
vain pedantry of trying exactly to copy natural
circumstances under the altered conditions of the
garden. All one can say — all, at least, that I will
positively say — is that S. burseriana has the very
strongest objection to being parched or frizzled.
Apart from that, if the plant has an adequate
supply of water, overhead, underground and in the
air, I do not here find the slightest difference,
either in health or floriferousness, between speci-
mens grown in shade or in the fullest stm. The
shadow of a great rock would, no doubt, much avail
it in a thirsty land ; but sound drainage, a light.

September 20, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

475

limy loam (with chips and rubble) and a position
securing it from being baked beyond endurance,
should surely go far towards ensuring the prosperity
of this really very easy-going and happy-natured
plant. Indeed, I find it hard to understand the
halo of doubt and difficulty that seems to encompass
S. burseriana in the minds of cultivators. Can it,
perhaps, arise from e.xcess of precaution — a vicious
circle, care begetting failure, and failure care ?
I have seen so many sad and sickly burserianas,
cossetted as the apple of a one-eyed gardener's
eye, yet all the more moribund and decrepit in
their special pocket or particular fat, hard mixtrire
of soil. But I believe, from watching the plant and
collecting its very fine roots, that
freedom is its essential want — a
quite light, loose mixture of loam
and lime and rubble, with perfect
drainage down below and a suffi-
ciency of water for its roots. Pro-
cure it these, then I would almost
premise that in most parts of the
country S. burseriana could boldly
be packed into any sort of reason-
able place with no more regard or
fuss (and all the better without it),
and there stay forgotten until its
astonishing eruption of white
moons recalls the plant to your
memory in the darkest days of the
year. Reginald Farrer.

WHAT IS A FLORIST'S
FLOWER P

{Continued from page 463.)

o

NE generally forms some impression,
right or wrong, of an author from
his book ; and after reading " Daffo-
dils " I seem to gather that Mr.
Jacob, while he looks for the
advent of a dictator, would himself
possibly prove a restive subject to the poten-
tate he sighs for. The author of "Daffodils"
has himself, I fancy, too catholic a sense of beauty

TREES & SHRUBS.

A

WALL

L-tANOT

c

BEAUTIFUL
SHRUB.

Ceanothus thyrsiflorus.

EANOTHUSES are

becoming more and

more popular among

flowering shrubs for

clothing bare walls.

The flowers are not
large, it is true, but this is more
than compensated for by the
great profusion of inflorescences
bearing small flowers. There is
a well-known variety of Ceanothus
azureus known as Gloire de Ver-
sailles. It is a most desirable
wall plant, flowering in April and
May. C. thyrsiflorus comes into
flower a little later, and is seen
at its best in the early days of
June, when it forms a suitable
companion to Wistaria multijuga
for a wall or verandah, the two
flowering together at that time.
In the accompanying illustration
this Ceanothus is seen trained

on a sunny wall in Mrs. Godfrey Pearse's ever to make a sound florist of the Glenny school,
garden at Taplow, Bucks. The plant illustrated I have no doubt that Mr. Glenny could have given
is some 25 feet or 30 feet in height, and it Mr. Jacob half-a-dozen excellent reasons for rele-
continues to grow and flower freely in this ' gating Frank Miles to the refuse-heap ; but one

likes to thmk that Mr. Jacob could (and would)

CEANOTHUS THYRSIFLORUS CLOTHING A WALL IN A BUCKINGHAM
SHIRE GARDEN.

warm soil and sunny position. Most of the
Ceanothuses are natives of warmer climes than
our own, a fact that should not be overlooked
at planting - time, although they often give
a good account of themselves when grown
in a northern aspect. A warm soil over a
well - drained subsoil is necessary for the
successful cultivation of these beautiful wall
shrubs.

have given Mr. Glenny a round dozen of reasons
for allowing that Daffodil to remain where it is in
his border. Still, there can be no doubt that
Mr. Jacob, when his judgment is at its least
robust, has decided hankerings after the flesh-
pots. " Its round overlapping perianth," he
says, speaking of Cossack, " and its beautiful
deep red eye are just what judges like to see at

shows," which would seem to imply that two
standard feattires have been already fixed, and
that, unless a flower shows a red eye and overlapping
segments, capable judges will rule it out of court.
Of course, it is not so, and let us hope it never will
be so, but that judges when they enter a show-
room will keep an open mind and allow every form
of beauty its proper value. I myself can, I hope,
as much as anyone admire broad, overlapping
segments and a deep red eye ; but I am not sure
that the Daffodils I admire most have either the
one feature or the other ; indeed, I am pretty
certain they have not. After all, what is there so
inherently and exclusively beautiful in overlapping
segments ? Is it not conceivable
that a star-shaped flower, in which
the segments meet only at the
base, might be just as handsome
in its own way as Cossack ? As
an* instance in point I would
name that good old variety, Maxi-
mus, the perianth segments of
which are relatively long, narrow,
tapering and twisted, each of which
characteristics, so far from being a
blemish, is a beauty. To alter any
one of them would be to change
the flower for the worse. Maximus.
of course, has no " deep red eye,"
but it has what is quite as good.
I will cite Mr. Jacob fifty Daffodils
the redness of whose eyes leaves
nothing to be desired if he will
name me half-a-dozen with the
rich yellow body-colour of Maxi-
mus. I know only one — Santa
Maria, a poor flower in all respects
<ither than colour, and not in the
running with Maximus. As for the
much-prized red eye, it is not pro-
fane, I hope, to suggest that raisers
are possibly overdoing their enthu-
siasm for the red eye. Still, I too
have been in Arcadia, and know
the thrill of the " red «ye." I
would fain hope, nevertheless, that
no redness of eye, however bril-
liant, will be held to condone
faults of form, colour and consti-
tution, as in the case of that once
(and possibly still) much-esteemed
flower, C. J. Backhouse, which has
a beautiful red cup, but is other-
wise worthless. By all means let
judges give full value to red eyes
and overlapping perianth segments
when they see specimens of these
that please them, but equally let
them refrain from creating cast-
iron regulations as to the form of
segments or the colour of eyes or
other features in which the Daffodil
displays such an infinite variety. Let us not, in
short, kick the Daffodil upstairs.

But, after all, am I not vexmg my soul without
a cause ? For I do not believe there are any florist's
flowers nowadays — not as Glenny understood the
term. Could that esteemed gentleman revisit the
showrooms which m his life he so much adorned,
he would be unpleasantly nonplussed and dis-
concerted to see how little is made nowadays of
the flowers for which he drew up such a drastic
code. Auricula-growers no doubt he could find,
if he searched them out, who would show him
flowers which he could recognise. But imagine the

476

THE GARDEN.

[September 20, 1913.

consternation of the poor old gentleman could he have
put in an appearance at the late Chelsea Show and
seen the Tulips— the Cottage Tulips, the Darwins,
the Parrots, and other Tulip profanities ! " Where,"
he would ask in his obsolete dialect, " are the
Bizarres and the ByblcEmens ? " And nobody
except Mr. Jacob would understand him. I have
no doubt Mr. Jacob would understand him ; and
he would lead the venerable shade to an obscure
annexe, a sort of side-show, hidden away as if
it were ashamed of itself, and there the ghost of
the old florist would see a few, a very few, Tulips
of the kind he used to know, lovely flowers, too,
streaked and flamed and feathered according to
the orthodox patterns approved in his day and
generation. Then possibly (no doubt to Mr.
Jacob's sensible relief) the spirit would ask to be
taken to the Carnations. Peradventure, though
they have outraged the Tulip, they will have spared
tlie Carnation. So once again they make their

scent the morning air ; yet, ere I hie me hence
once more to purging fires, one thing I'll whisper
in your ear : Florist's flowers you no longer possess,
nor florists either. Better things you may have,
only not these, not as I knew them. Adieu, my
friend, adieu. I'll see you by and by, when you
have done with Daffodils ! " Somerset.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

THE OUTDOOR MUSHROOM-BED.

THE present is a good time for the
making-up of a Mushroom-bed in the
open air. Many amateur gardeners
think it is really necessary to have
specially-constructed houses in order to
be successful in the cultivation of
Mushrooms. The latter may be easily grown in
cellars and ordinary sheds, also in the open air.

placed thinly on the floor of an open ^hed, or in
the open air altogether if the weather is dry and
fine, and thrown into a heap for two days prior
to being laid in thin layers and well beaten down in
the bed itself. A bed of useful size is one made on
a foundation 3 feet 6 inches wide and 8 feet long.
The height will be governed by the width, and
should be about two feet six inches or so. Insert
the lumps of spawn 2 inches deep and 10 inches
apart every way all over the bed ; then cover the
latter with a layer of sifted maiden loam 2 inches
thick, making the surface smooth with the back
of a clean spade. Do not give any water, as the
natural steam ni the bed will provide sufiicient.
Cover with clean litter neatly put on a foot thick ;
then thatch the whole bed with straight straw
laid on 2 inches thick. The cultivation of
Mushrooms is interesting work, and is unlike
the culture of any other garden crop. Mushrooms
should appear in seven to eight weeks from
the date of spawning, and when
gathered in open weather care must
he taken not to expose much of the
surface of the bed at one time.
Later on, beds may be made wholly
of tree leaves where they are very
plentiful. To commence with fertile
spawn is just as important in the
successful cultivation of Mushrooms
as good seed is in growing flowering
plants. Spawn should, therefore, only
be procured from a reliable source,
for after a while, and especially if
not properly stored, the spawn loses
its vitality. Shamrock.

THE NEW ASTER I'ELTHAM BLUE. A USEFUL VARIETY FOR THE HERB.\CEOUS BORDER

way through the perspiring crowd, the subtle
essence of the Glenny shadow flitting easily by
the side of his conductor's substance, until they
pause before the monumental display of Mr. C.
Engelmann. Helplessly the perturbed spectre
eyes the wilderness of blossom. These massive,
leggy blooms are not the flowers for which erstwhile
he formulated laws. Yet even the ghost of Mr.
Glenny retains some spark of his terrestrial fire,
and, bewildered as he is, the poor, disoriented
shade can scarce forbear to clap his spectral palms :
vases of Sunstar and Benora, banks of White
Wonder and Pioneer, columns of Lady Northcliffe,
waterfalls of White Enchantress and Electra !
" Magnificent ! " he mutters, " magnificent ! But,
you know, not quite according to Cocker ! Where
are the dapper little smooth-edged flowers on discs
of white paper — the flakes and bizarres that once
dehghted Lord and Simonite ? A glorious sight

provided they are protected from the excessive
rains and severe frosts by thick coverings of clean
litter and mats.

A Good Position may be found on the north
side of a fence, wail, or building. If the latter be
high, of the height of a dwelling-house, build the
bed quite 12 feet away from it to the north. Do
not build directly under the branches of trees,
as the water dripping on the bed will tend to
chill it.

The Material and Size of Bed. — It is not neces-
sary to have horse-manure solely. If half is horse-
manure and half clean tree leaves, material of a
gently-heating nature will be obtained. A fair
quantity of litter should be left with the manure, as
the latter is liable to bum through overheating if
employed alone. The inclusion of tree leaves
not only prevents too high a temperature, but
steadies and prolongs it. Before the ingredients

my friend, though — but soft ! methinks I I are put together to form the bed, they must be

NEW AND RARE
PLANTS.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Aster Feltham Blue. — The merits

of this variety as a border flower are
already recognised (see illustration).
It is of medium height, of branching
habit and profusely flowered. The
flowers are of a pleasing shade of
lavender blue. Shown by Messrs. T. S.
Ware, Limited.

Salvia uliginosa. — An interesting
species, native of the marshlands
and river banks of Brazil. Despite
its habitat, it is said to be a hardy
perennial in this country. The
flowers, somewhat sparsely borne
in branching inflorescences, are of a clear azure
blue. Shown by Mr. C. Turner, Slough.

Dahlia Inchmarnock. — This is one of the most
pleasing of the Collarette Dahlias we have yet
seen. The ray florets are salmon scarlet, and the
inner florets of sulphur yellow. The flowers are
small, neat and freely borne. Shown by Messrs.
Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh.

Odontioda Seymouriae Orchidhurst variety. —

This is derived from the intercrossing of Odontioda
Charlesworthii and Odontioda Bradshawise, and
may be described as a fine scarlet form of the first-
named parent, of excellent shape and substance.

Lselio-Cattleya George Woodhams.— A fine
hybrid obtained by intercrossing L. purpurata
and C. hardyana. The sepals and petals are
purplish magenta, and the large lip deep crimson.
Both were exhibited by Messrs. .Armstrong and
Brown, Tunbridge Wells.

September 20, 1913.^

The garden.

47?

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

ROOTING CUTTINGS UNDER HAND-LIGHTS.

HAND-LIGHTS form an almost indispens-
,Me adjunct to every garden. The
beginner will find them most useful
to root cuttings of hardy and half-
hardy plants. The usual sizes of the
hand-lights are 15 inches and 18 inches
square. The cloches used so much in French
gardening may also be used for rooting cuttings of
Pentstemons, Violas, Calceolarias and other similar
plants, but they are not so handy and convenient
as hand-lights.

The first item to consider is the preparation of a
bed of sandy soil in which to insert the cuttings.
Choose a warm, sheltered border as the spot on
which to make the bed, to avoid the necessity
of providing a large quantity of protection for the
hand-lights during cold, frosty weather. Make the
bed of sandy soil firm, and over it spread a thin
layer of silver sand. Keep this dry, so that when
a hole is made with a dibber and the cutting inserted,
the sand will trickle in round the cutting and §11
up the hole. Mark out the size of the bottom of
the hand-light by standing the frame on the sand.
The cuttings are more readily inserted before the
hand-light is finally placed in position. Some hand-
lights are made in two parts, a bottom and a top ;
these cost slightly more than those made all in one,
but they are much more convenient. Having
inserted the cuttings, stand the bottom of the hand-
light over them, and give a good watering with a
fine-rosed watering-can to settle the sand round the
cuttings and prevent them flagging. Keep the
frame close till the cuttings are rooted, shading
whenever the sun shows signs of gaining power.
As time proceeds the cuttings will root, and then
air must be gradually admitted and the amomit

CUTTINGS OF VIOLAS AND PENTSTEMONS PLANTED IN
SANDY SOIL AND COVERED WITH A HAND-LIGHT.
NOTE THE MOVABLE TOP.

of shading lessened,
finally dispensing
with it entirely. It
is not necessary to
limit each hand-
light to one kind of
plant, Pentstemons,
for instance. These,
with cuttings of
hardy Fuchsias and
Veronicas, may bo
inserted in a single
hand-light. Choose
in all cases short-
jointed, healthy
shoots for cuttings.
The length of the
cuttings will de-
pend a little on
the kind of plant ;
cuttings of Violas,
for instance, will
not be so long
as those of Pent-
stemons. An average length of ji inches to
3 inches is a convenient size. The distance apart
is another clastic point which may rest largely
with the grower ; 2 inches apart in the rows and
3 inches between the rows of cuttings will suffice,
but a little either way will not matter. When once
inserted and covered with hand-lights, the cuttings
will not require much attention beyond shading
from sun. Examine them about once a week to
see if water is required, and remove all dead and
decaying leaves.

Pentstemons. — The Pentstemon is essentially a
plant for the beginner and the
small grower with little acconuno-
dation. It is easy to propagate,
ajid the plants thrive and flower
freely in most soils and situa-
tions. Seeds and cuttings are the
recognised methods of increase, the
seeds being so^vn in a heated
greenhouse during February or
early March, and in a cold frame
about July. Towards the end of
September or early in October is a
good time to insert Pentstemon cut-
tings. The race of Pentstemons most
largely cultivated in gardens are hy-
brids, and comprise a considerable
variety of colours. Anyone raising
a batch of seedlings last spring will
have an attractive display of flowers
at the present time. It is worth while
taking cuttings of the best of these,
presuming the strain is a good one,
for as a rule some of the seedlings
almost, if not quite, equal the named
sorts. Cuttings should also be in-
serted of the named varieties, as the
old plants will only survive the
winter outside in very favoured
localities. A list of named sorts
would serve no useful purpose
here ; they are so numerous
that one can soon make a selec-
tion from a florist's catalogue.

\ BED 01' SANDY SOIL, WITH SOME CUTTINGS PLANTED AND OTHERS
READY FOR INSERTION.

Three sorts, however, call for special nu'ution,
and should be in every collection. They arc
Crimson Gem, a very large, rich crimson-scarlet
flower ; Southgate Gem, bright scarlet blooms
of medium size, produced in profusion, a hybrid
between Newbury Gem and a large-flnwering
florist's sort ; and Newbury Gem, a fine old Pent-
stemon producing an abundance of small red
flowers. It is also known as P. Hartwegii. The
making of the cuttings of Pentstemons and their
treatment are similar to that afforded to Calceo-
larias and dealt with e.irlicr in these notes.

Bedding Calceolarias. — For summer bedding
tlie yellow and dark red shrubby Calceolarias
are imsurpassed in the cottage and small suburban
garden. Late September and early October is
the season to insert cuttings to obtain plants for
next summer's display. Dibbled in sandy soil
2 inches apart and covered with a hand-light,
the cuttings will root and not require much attention
till the end of February. Look over the cuttings
once a week to remove damp and decaying leaves.
Protect from frost with a covering of litter. Bracken,
or the old stems of Michaelmas Daisies. When
rooted, which will probably be in about six weeks,
air must be gradually admitted by turning round
the top of the haiid-light a little, closing it up again
on cold, frosty nights. Plenty of side growths
suitable for cuttings will be found on most of the
Calceolaria plants at the present time. Take off
the shoots about three inches long, cut through
the stem just below a pair of leaves to make a
base for the cutting, removing two, or possibly
four, leaves. As soon as inserted, water in and
close up the hand-light. To obtain sturdy, bushy
plants, the points or growing tips of the young plants
should be removed in early spring. This will
induce each plant to make two shoots, possibly
more. Half-a-dozen of the best sorts are Golden
Gem, rich yellow ; Camden Hero, dark red-brown ;
The Sultan, very dark reddish crimson ; Prince
of Orange, bronzy yellow ; Cloth of Gold, golden
yellow ; and Bijou, bronzy crimson. Calceolarias
delight in a moist, fairly rich soil, and a half-shady
border is preferable to one in full sun.

478

THE GARDEN.

[September 20, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

^Propagation. — This is an operation that still needs
ittention, and ought, not to be deferred too long,
or some of the subjects may get touched by frost,
when a good strike is much more difficult to secure.

Calceolarias. — The shrubby varieties, for bedding
purposes, should be propagated from the soft
growths springing from the base of the stem of
flowering plants, and the softer they are, within
reason, the more easily will they strike. They
may be rooted in pots or boxes ; but the best
system is to prick them out, 2 inches or 3 inches
apart, in a cold frame, using a light, open compost
for the purpose, afterwards keeping them sprayed
and shaded till the foliage becomes stiff and upright,
when they may be treated a little more hardily ;
and as soon as well rooted they may be given plenty
of air during fine weather.

Veronica Andersonii variegata and Mar-
guerites are easily-grown bedding plants that may
be propagated now, practically in the same way as
advised for Calceolarias.

Lantanas are used a good deal for bedding pur-
poses, and the various varieties root readily if nice
soft cuttings are secured and placed singly in
2i-inch pots, using a very light compost. A little
bottom-heat is necessary during the rooting period,
and if fair-sized plants are desired for next season,
the shelf of an intermediate house is a good place on
which to winter them.

Chrysanthemums. — Many of the early-flowering
section are now making a good show, and in
districts which are low-lying and subject to early
autumn frosts, some provision should be made for
covering them. Pit lights, of course, are useful if
placed well above the flowers, and will keep them
m good condition for a long time. Tiffany stretched
over them at night is also effective, but as this
lets the wet through, the lights are to be preferred ;
or oiled paper, tacked over a light framework, acts
almost equally as well. Plants that are to be
lifted for flowering indoors should have the roots
cut roimd at a reasonable distance from the stem,
and if well watered afterwards and kept sprayed
it will prevent them flagging. As soon as the
roots commence to run again is the best time to lift
the plants and take them indoors.

Plants Under Glass.

Violets. — Preparations should now be made for
lifting and plantuig in the frames. In the first
place, the frames should be filled to within a foot
of the glass with a compost which is knowii to suit
the plants in the particular locality, this varying
in some instances from pure loam to pure leaf-
soil.

Chrysanthemums. — By this date many of the
earlier varieties will be showing colour, and if of
the large-flowering section they should be housed
at once, but not before all the foliage has been care-
ftflly syruiged with a solution of sulphide of
potassium to guard against mildew. Decorative
varieties, such as Mary Richardson, Mrs. Roots,
Heston Bronze and Soleil de Octobre, should also
be placed under cover as the flowers show colour.
By placing the plants indoors rather early, they
sometimes fill up a gap after the outdoor ones are
cut down, and, where used, make room for the mid-
season juid late varieties.

Browallia speciosa. — Though these will have
done well up till now in a cool house, they are better
for a little warmth from now onwards, an inter-
mediate temperature suiting them well. A little
weak liquid manure may be given to plants in
bloom, and this should keep them going till well
into the autumn.

Euphorbia pulcherrima plants are now well esta-
blished m their flowering pots, and should be re-
moved from the pit in which they have been grow-
ing to a suitable house with a temperature of from
55° to 60° at night. Keep them well sprayed on
all fine days, and when the pots are well filled with
roots, feed regularly with a mild manure, such as
Clay's Fertilizer or a little blood manure, both of
which I have found to suit them well.

Euphorbia jacquinieeDora.— Plants of this will
take rather more heat than the preceding, and where
they can be trained up the wires of a Melon-house

they will ripen their wood well, which is very
essential to get a good long spray of blooms.

Shading. — Much of the shadmg material may
be left ofi now, only the more tender subjects
requiring it during the hottest part of the day ;
but a sharp look-out must be kept if the sun comes
out brightly after a few wet or sunless days.

The Kitchen Garden.

Turnips sown during the latter part of August
should be thinned to a fair distance apart, so as
to allow the foliage to become hard and not so
easily damaged by frost. After thinning, hoe well,
continumg the operation as often as necessary, so
as to facilitate the growth.

Celery. — Continue the earthing of Celery as the
weather permits, giving a good watering and feeding
to the latest batch a day or so before commencing
earthing. The midseason rows should be finished
off carefully, so as to throw off superfluous moisture,
especially where the soil is heavy.

Onions. — All Onions should be got mider cover
as soon as possible, the smaller bulbs being put
where they can be bunched or tied in strings
during wet weather.

Fruits Under Glass.

Strawberries. — Plants that are well rooted
should be watered occasionally with liquid manure ;
but there is no need to try to get extra-sized
crowns, as those that are of moderate size and well
ripened, I find, give the best results. Where
there is a tendency for the foliage to become
mildewed, the plants should be sprayed occasionally
with sulphide of potassium.

Vineries. — Muscat Grapes that are quite ripe
and still have to be kept some time should be
shaded from very bright sunlight. Air must be
kept on at all times, but just sufficient heat must
be kept in the pipes at night and on dull days to
keep the air dry and circulating.

Very Late Grapes that are ripening should be
kept a trifle drier, especially towards the evening,
and the temperature not allowed to fall below
58° to 60°, though when quite ripe a few degrees
lower will keep them in good condition.
Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Propagating Calceolarias.— The old orange
yellow Calceolarias of the aurea floribunda type
are seldom seen nowadays. Lemon shades are
still popular, however, and old amplexicaulis,
Lemon Gem and Queen Alexandra are all well
worth growing. A start should be made with
the propagation of these within the next week or
so. The first and last mentioned of the fore-
going trio are not quite so hardy as some of the
other varieties, so that if the frame in which they
are to be wintered is not capable of being slightly
heated in time of frost, ample protecting material
will have to be provided.

Preparations for Bulb-Planting. — As annuals

go out of bloom they should be cleared away,
and the ground they occupied should be lightly
dressed with decayed vegetable refuse or other
manure, and then dug over to be in readiness
for the reception of bulbs and other spring-flowering
plants.

The Rose Garden.
Selecting Climbers. — We now have such a
choice of high-class Roses in the Hybrid Tea
section that fewer Roses are now grown on walls ;
but pergolas, pillars, arches and screen fences
clothed with Rambler Roses are much in evidence,
and so far as climbers are concerned, the ramblers
fill the popular imagination at the present time.
I will therefore confine myself to these at present.
For pinks, those making a start cannot do better
than plant Dorothy Perkins and Lady Gay, and
for a white. White Dorothy Perkins is unsurpassed.
Of red shades there is considerable choice. Among
singles, Hiawatha is an easy first, but for an early
bloomer Carmine Pillar is excellent. Among
doubles, Crimson Rambler and Flower of Fairfield
are both good. Purple East is an attractive semi-
double pillar Rose. Among single pinks or blush,

Blush Rambler and Euphrosyne are to be com-
mended. Among yellow shades, Alister Stella
Gray is tlie most accommodating.

The Rock Garden.

Colchicums. — These attractive autumn flowers
are admirably adapted for the lower reaches of
the rockwork, and those who possess them will
be enjoying their beauty now that the bulk of
the occupants are assuming a rather sombre
aspect. Bommuelleri, speciosum, speciosum album,
Parkinsonii, autumnale roseo pleno and a. albo
pleno are all worthy of inclusion.

Autumn Crocuses. — These, too, are excellent
for brightening up the lower reaches of rock-
work. I can only speak of a few of them, but
can recommend loiigiflorus (odorus), speciosus
and zonatus. Like the Colchicums, August is
the ideal month for planting, but they can be
planted with safety immediately after flowering.

Plants Under Glass.
Lilium longiflorum Harrisii. — Both this variety

and the type are excellent for conservatory decora-
tion, and for early work the bulbs should be pro-
cured and potted up as soon as convenient. Good
results can only be had from strong bulbs, and it
IS bad policy to buy small, cheap ones. Loam,
peat, sand, leaf-mould and rotten manure in a
rather rough state form an excellent compost for
Liliums.

Freesias. — The sooner these are potted up the
better. Eight or ten bulbs in a 5-inch pot make
a nice display. Use light soil similar to that recom-
mended for Liliums, but in a less lumpy condition.
Stand 111 a cold frame for a time.

Perpetual-Flowering Carnations. — Thrip is sure
to appear, and must be kept in check by weekly
fumigation until the flowers begin to open. Give
abundance of air during the day, with a little over-
night unless the weather is very cold.

Fruits Under Glass.

Pruning Early Peaches. — If the trees are
completely defoliated, the sooner they are pruned
the better. In the case of young, partially-
developed trees, the first consideration should be
the framework of the tree ; but in the case of
fully-developed trees, the work of pruning is com-
paratively simple, and consists chiefly of cutting
away the shoot which has just borne fruit and
the shortening of the succession shoot which has
been laid in, and which is to bear next season's
crop. Always cut back to a wood-bud, which is
less plump and more elongated than a fruit-bud.
The distance from one bearing shoot to another
should be about a foot.

Late Figs. — In order to ripen off these satis-
factorily, a night temperature of 60" to 65° will be
necessary.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Preparations for Planting. — Where the planting
of fruit trees is contemplated, some suitable soil
should be got in readiness in which to give the
trees a start. Nothing equals maiden loam, but
it is often a scarce commodity. If, however, a
quantity of it is procurable, it can be mixed with
an equal quantity of road parings, which contain
a considerable amount of fibrous material.

Late Stone Fruits. — In the event of frost
occurring, any late, unripe Peaches or Plums
must be protected with scrim or other light material.

The Vegetable Garden.

Celery. — Continue to earth-up Celery as neces-
sary. Early crops that are receiving their final
earthing-up should have the soil brought up to
an apex, and it should be beaten with the back
of the spade, making a smooth surface to run the
water ofi.

Turnip-Rooted Beet should now be stored.
Be careful not to break the roots, or bleeding will
ensue, thus greatly spoiling the crop.

Autumn-Sown Onions. — The young seedlings
are now well up. Run the Dutch hoe between
the rows to kill the seedling weeds and aerate the
soil. Weeds growing in the rows must be pulled
with the hand.

Kidney Beans. — Store all the surplus yield in salt,
as previously directed, before they become tough
or get injured by frost. Steep the pods thus treated
in "fresh water for twelve hours prior to cooking
them. Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

September 20, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

479

DAFFODIL NOTES.

Poetaz Varieties. — The writer of the article
on Poetaz Narcissi in the Bulb Number o{ The
(lARDEN is not, I fear, very familiar with their
history. Every variety mentioned in it was raised
by Mr. R. van der Schoot. He has told me about
the sudden thought that came to him as he was
one day passing by some ornatus in his bulb-fields,
and how he at once acted upon it, with the result
that all those varieties mentioned, and some others
as well, first saw the light of day — now a good
many years ago — in his trial grounds at Hillegom.
Jaune a Merveille is no newer than the others.
It is more expensive, like Sunset, another very
lovely yellow Poetaz, because it is such a slow
increaser. It is a long t me since I bought my
first bulbs of this new race from Vilmorin of
Paris, and then there was but little difference
in the prices of any of them — I suppose because
their powers of increase had not been sufficiently
tested. Now they are known, and prices are
fixed accordingly, .\lsace, .\spasia, Elvira, Irene,
Jaune i Merveille and Sunset are, in my opinion,
the best half-dozen, the first three mentioned having
white and the last three yellow perianths. Alsace
is the best for early forcing, as it comes so easily
and well. Irene is a much softer shade of yellow
than either of the other two. I like it exceedingly
as a pot plant. Jaune a Merveille, Sunset and
Elvira have flatter perianths than any of the others,
and on this account are useful for showing.
Aspasia is the tallest and most vigorous, and a
real everybody's flower. 1 must say, however,
that in its native soil it has not that superiority
in vigour and height which it has with me. As
far as I know, the only Poetaz in commerce that
has been raised by Mr. Engleheart is my favourite
Orient, which has an undulating white perianth
and a palish yellow cup with a clear red edge.
.AJl that I have mentioned are excellent both for
pot work and for the garden, so much so that I
have no hesitation in following up " A. B.'s " little
notice with another puff of this important race.

Daffodils to be Grown in Pots. — Gardeners,
like betting people. like "tips," only they do not
get them quite so often ; but when they do, let
us hope they are more reliable. I quite thought
there would have been a few about what to buy
for pots in the Bulb Number. Directly I saw
there were none, I wired off to the Editor and begged
for a column in next week's edition. The time is
getting on now, for potting, at any rate. Before
these lines are read and the bulbs procured, it will
be high time they were in. Last year I believe I
" tipped " Firebrand. I know a lady who has bought
some this autumn on my recommendation. If
she has any luck at all, she will find I have " tipped "
a winner. I have had it for the last three years
myself, and it has never been found wanting.
Blackwell is another beautiful variety that lends
i;self to gentle forcing very readily, always keeping
a good shape and coming with a fair amount of
colour in the cup. Weardale Perfection is more at
home in the greenhouse than anywhere else. Now
that it is procurable at about two shillings each,
half a sovereign for a potful of five would be money
well invested, and would bring a certain return in
the pleasure it would give anyone who likes refined
flowers. I could say almost exactly the same about
Lady Margaret Boscawen, only it is just a little
less chic and gives more idea of massiveness. Of
King Alfred it is hardly necessary to speak. When
Messrs. James Carter and Co. got hold of the selling
of this wonderful flower, they knew what they were

doing. In pots it has no rival among the big
yellow trumpets, and I find with care in ripening
under glass that pot-grown bulbs do not do so
very badly a second year. Orphee is seldom seen
in any list nowadays. I hope some firms still
have it, for I consider it one of the most satisfactory
pot red edgers that we have at a low price. Barrii
conspicuus is not in it when flowers are wanted in
early February. Lucifer is a good lasting plant
under glass, and the colour is retained pretty well
until the end. I strongly advise a trial. The
Leedsiis, as a whole, seem cut out for the purpose
I am advocating. Some day the " giants " will
be possible to be had at a reasonable figure,
and then I expect no one will be without a
potful or two. Meanwhile, let me say what a
dainty bloom Fairy Queen is. Everj-one must
like it. Then, it is so free. An old-fashioned
Tazetta that appealed very much to me this last
spring was Dr. Holland. Mr. Bowles probably
does not know it, or it might have been coupled
with Bazelman major and Muzart orientalis ; or
it may be he was writing of outside flowers, whereas
I am strictly now an inside man. Lastly, let me
advise Mr. Duncan Pearson, and anyone else who
is interested in the Poet type, to try, as a good every-
day plant, Ben Jonson. I am disposed to think
it has been peculiarly well named, for the life-
history of the man may well be repeated in the
flower ; and that the day will come when it will
enjoy the high favour of its patrons — the Daffodil-
loving public. Joseph Jacob.

DAFFODILS IN NEW
Z E A L A N D .

{Continued from page 464.)

THERE are several large growers in
the South, some of whom, including
Mr. Charles Goodson of Hawera
(Taranaki), Mr. A. E. Lowe of Tai
Tapu and Mr. F. Biggs of Christ-
church (Canterbury), Mr. A. Miller
and Mr. J. Blair of Mornington, Dunedin,
Mr. J. J. Woods, Mr. H. Hart and Mr. H.
Darton of Lawrence, and Mr. A. B. Haggitt of
Invercargill (Otago), have been for some years
engaged in raising seedlings, with considerable
success. There are, I understand, no growers
of seedlings in our capital province (Wellington),
though Mr. Thomas Mason of Lower Hutt (now
deceased) raised some good things, which have,
unfortunately, gone astray. All the above-
mentioned growers are, I believe, amateurs, with
the exception of Mr. Lowe, who is gardener to the
Hon. R. Heaton Rhodes (Postmaster-General)
of Tai Tapu, Canterbury, and as Mr. Rhodes
has been a lavish importer of the best things
obtainable in England, in his service Mr. Lowe
had exceptional opportunities for hybridising,
of which he fully availed himself. As the result
he has a very fine lot of seedlings, some of which
have received certificates, and he considers several
of his raising to be improvements on standard
imported varieties.

We have not seen any of the Southern seedlings
in Auckland yet, but we hear of some fine trumpets
from both pollen and seed of King Alfred, and
also some fine red cups. For the past two
seasons we have had the services of Mr. E. A.
Hamel of Dunedin as judge at our spring show,
and I am indebted to him for some of my infor-
mation with regard to matters in the South. He

informed me, among other things, that he con-
sidered they grew red cups better in the South,
getting richer colour of longer standing than he
observed in Auckland. This is probably attribu-
table to the cooler climate of Otago, many red-
cupped varieties here being given to " burning "
quickly in fine weather. I must not omit to refer
to the distinction attained by Mr. Biggs of Christ-
church of being the first New Zealand grower
to exhibit a seedling in England and merit favourable
comment from so good a judge as the Rev. J.
Jacob, as did his Hon. R. J. Seddon {vide your
issue of March 29 last).

The subject of nomenclature is now causing
some trouble, as, with so many new varieties
being raised in Australia and New Zealand, it is
but natural that duplication of names should occur.
Several names appropriated and used out here
during the past few years are now, we find by
perusing recent catalogues, &c., borne by novelties
recently exhibited or put into commerce at home,
and unless some system is devised to regulate the
matter, confusion must ensue when Antipodean
novelties now being introduced into commerce
begin to be distributed. I noticed paragraphs
recently in The Garden referring to the probability
of a Daffodil Year Book being published, and a
movement for the formation of a National Daffodil
Society. I think these are both good projects,
and that they will receive the approbation and
support of New Zealand growers, and I hope one
of the subjects they will take in hand and deal
with will be this same matter of nomenclature.

.\nother matter requiring attention here is the
certificating of new varieties. I do not know
whether the Southern societies have given the
matter serious attention, but in the .Auckland
Horticultural Society it has come up on two or '
three occasions for discussion ; but definite action
was deferred, there being a feeling that an award
of merit conferred by a society such as our local
one would not carry much weight outside, and
that a Dominion committee or committees should
be constituted for the purpose of adjudicating on
new varieties, not only of Daffodils, but all other
classes of horticultural products. So far the
difficulties to be overcome have prevented the
consummation of so desirable an object. Our
society, however, felt that some recognition of
Professor Thomas' work with the Narcissus
should not be longer postponed, and at our 1911
and iyi2 shows instructed the judge (from Dunedin)
to consider the seedlings exhibited with this
object in view, .■\ccordingly, some six or seven of
Professor Thomas' productions then in bloom
were awarded the Auckland Horticultural Society's
certificate of merit, of which, I think, they were
well worthy, and it is intended to send particulars
of these to the Editor of the Daffodil Year Book.

The cut-flower business here, which a few years
back was of small importance, has now developed
to very noticeable proportions, and in this the
Daffodil takes a foremost place. The flowers are
grown for sale mostly by orchardists and nurserymen
in the remoter suburbs, planted between the rows
of fruit trees, and are found to pay fairly well
as a side-line, as they come in at a time when orchard
work is somewhat slack, and the returns from them
are a welcome prelude to the fruit harvest. Some
of the larger growers pack and forward a large
quantity to the Southern towns, where enhanced
prices are obtained, as our season is considerably
earlier than theirs. The best selling kinds are the
large yellow trumpets, but most of the large,
long-stalked ones find a ready market.

480

THE GARDEN.

[September 20, igi;

In your issue of December 14 last appeared a
paragraph (which was copied by our New Zealand
Graphic) referring to the possibility of the best
and newest of New Zealand raised Daffodils being
grown and shown in England. I have been unable
to obtain any information locally as to this scheme,
so I assume it emanated from one or other of
the large Southern growers. We hope the idea
will materialise in the near future, and that, if it
does, Auckland will be well represented. Of
course, growers may not care to send away their
very latest productions, of which the number of
bulbs would be very limited, and the New Zealand
•display would be handicapped by the lapse of time
necessary to the acclimatising of the bulbs at home,
and possibly they may not at first take kindly to
the English climate. Still, if they were taken in
hand by one or more of your many expert growers,
and not staged until they had, time to settle down
and become " at home " in their new environment,
the experiment and opportunity of comparison
should prove very interesting, and I venture to
think shou'.d do us credit.

Since jotting down these notes, I have read
your reports of the London and Midland shows,
and the accounts of the latest good things make us
pause and wonder how much further the " manu-
facture " of such wonderful new specimens of this
flower will go and what direction the next break
will take. One wonders what would be the emotions
of Dean Herbert, Leeds, Backhouse and other
pioneers of half a century and more ago, could they
visit a present-day show ; for surely they never
could have imagined that the work begun by them
with such meagre material would develop to the
extent it has and bring forth such remarkable
forms as are now coming forward each year in
• increasing number and variety. These latest
reports, while making us feel diffident as to how our
flowers would compare, yet make us more anxious
to know how we stand, and we feel every confidence
that our representatives would make a respectable
showing, especially if the home critics bear in mind
that so far we have had to import all our breeding
stock, and we are therefore of necessity some
years behind in this important respect.

Auckland. New Zcmland. A. E. Grindrod.

TRIALS OF ANTIRRHINUMS
AT WISLEY.

As announced in our issue for September 6, the
Royal Horticultural Society have held trials of
Antirrhinums at Wisley this year. These were
visited by the floral committee on the 29th ult.,
and the following awards made by them on that
occasion were confirmed by the Council on the
9th inst. :

Awards of Merit. — To Amber Queen, from
iMessrs. Barr, Covent Garden, and Messrs. Watkins
and Simpson, Covent Garden ; Beacon, from
Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea ; Beauty,
from Messrs. Barr, Covent Garden ; Bonfire, from
Messrs. Simpson, Birmingham, and Robert Syden-v
ham. Limited, Birmingham ; Carmine Queen,
from Messrs. Watkins and Simpson, Covent Garden ;
Coccinea, Crimson Kmg and Daphne, from Messrs.
Hurst, Houndsditch ; Defiance and Fire King,
from Messrs. Bath, Wisbech ; Golden Mom, from
Messrs. Watkins and Simpson, Covent Garden ;
Golden Queen, from Messrs. Bath, Wisbech ; Maize
Queen and Moonlight, from Messrs. Dobbie, Edin-
burgh ; Pink and Queen Victoria, from Messrs.
James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea ; Rosy Mom,

from Messrs. Watkins and Simpson, Covent Garden ;
Salmon Pink, from Messrs. R. Veitch, Exeter ;
Sunset, from Messrs. Dickson and Robinson,
Manchester ; White Beauty and White Queen,
from Messrs. Dobbie, Edinburgh ; Yellow, from
Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea ; Yellow
King, from Messrs. Barr, Covent Garden ; and
Y'ellow Queen, from Messrs. Hurst, Houndsditch.

Highly Commended. — To Albino, from Mr.
F. C. Heinemann, Erfurt ; Brilliant, from Messrs.
Barr, Covent Garden ; Brilliant Rose, from Messrs.
Bath, Wisbech ; Buff Queen, from Messrs. Watkins
and Simpson, Covent Garden ; Coral Red, from
Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea ; Dainty,
from Messrs. Dickson and Robinson, Manchester ;
Dainty Queen, from Robert Sydenham, Limited,
Birmingham ; Firelight, from Messrs. Bath,
Wisbech ; Galatea, from Messrs. Barr, Covent
Garden ; Nobile, from Messrs. Hurst, Houndsditch ;
Pink Beauty and Pink Queen, from Messrs. Watkins
and Simpson, Covent Garden ; Roseum, from
Messrs. Carter, Raynes Park ; Scarlet Carmine,
from Messrs. Dickson and Robinson, Manchester ;
and White Queen and Yellow Prince, from Messrs.
Hurst, Houndsditch.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— 2V(C Editor ininids to
mnk'! The Cakdkn helpful to nil readers ivho desire assist-
ance, 110 matter trhut the bramh of gardening may be, and
u'ith that object will make a special fentwe of the "Ansvjers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, J\ .C. The 7iame and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. \\ he7i more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or ?noes, not cotton-u-ool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
smalt scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letteis
on business should be sent to the PUBLISHER.

FLOWER GARDEN.

WATER LILIES (Aiir iou ■'^).—T\ksc will succeed much
hetter if you will lay a circle of bricks on the bottom of
the tank VJ feet in diameter, and fill np the space with
^'ood soil and plunffe the baskets in it. The best time
to plant out is the end of March or the first week in April ;
but as you have the plants already by you, put them in
water {in baskets) now and add the extra soil in sprin:j.

PLANTING FOR EFFECT (Vori-).— A mass of shrubs
with coloured or varie{:ated leaves would answer as well
as anything in the position you describe, providing such
subjects are selected as may be expected to retain their
colour throughout the summer. For late winter and
early spriu}^ an effect might be made beneath the shrubs
by the use of Snowdrops, Crocuses, Winter Aconites,
C^lionodDxae, or other similar plants. The followin':^
shrubs are likely to prove suitable : Prunus Pissardi,
Purple-leaved Nut, Acer palmatum var. atropurpureum,
Cornus alba SpiHhii, Acer Negundo ealifornica aurea,
C'atalpa bignontoides aurea, Euonymus japonicus aureus,
Cornus alba variegata. C. Mas variegata, Acer Negundo
\ariegata. Cotton Lavender, Golden and Silver leaved
Uollies, and Golden and Silver leaved Tree Ivies.

TREATMENT OF BORDER CARNATIONS (H. ^. F.).—
Under the conditions named we should advise you to
pot up your Carnations during the winter and plant them
out in the spring. This will enable you to thoroughly
clean the place and prepare the soil for their reception.
Pots from '^\ inches to 4 inchee in diameter are \<?Ty suit-
able for the cuttings, and these pots should be quite clean
an<i effectually drained with a broken crock or two placed
in the bottom. In potting, instead of sifted soil from
the garden, use some good loam, which may be obtained
from an> local nurseryman. It should be well broken
up. but "not sifted, and, in potting, a few of the rougher
portions may be placed in the bottom immediately over
the crocks. The other ingredients can remain the same.
From your notr we gather that tWe frame is not large
enough to accommodate all your layers when potted
singly, and if this is the case, Ihe belter way will be to
gi^e the weaker ones the protection of a frame and (ilunge

the stronger growers out of doors in Cocoanut refuse,
ashes, or some other suitable material. The pots should
be plunged to the rim^. In the ca^e of thorc in the frame,
it must be borne in mind that pl-^nty of air is essential,
the main use of the frame being to keep off heavy rain-^
and to protect from severe frost. While ^utBcient water
should be iriven to ke?p the soil moderately moist, an
(excess must Ije strictly guarded against.

MOULD ON SOIL FOR DAFfODILS {//. IT. £.)•—
The mould is probably caused by the bones, as you con-
sider, but we do not think that it is likely to do harm
to your bulbs. It will be safer, however, to examine
one or two of the plunged pots to see if it is present there
also, and, if so, if it has permeated the soil, or if it is only
on the surface. If it has permeated the whole soil, It
will be necessary to repot in fresh compost, using bones
which have been properly steamed. We have had this
mould on the surface of pots of bulbs occasionally without
any dctrimeat to the Daffodils, but when it was discovered
the top soil was removed and the mould did not reappear.
Sterilising the bones as well as the soil would reduce their
manurial properties. Wc should advise you to keep
a careful Wit<;h on the soil in the pots, but the mould
may not be due to the bones so much as to the place
in which you have kept the unused compost, ai it sometimes
arises in a close atmosphere. Another cause which we
have found was by mixing the soil when it was too wet.
We find basic slag safer than bone-mciil for Daffodils,
seeing that there are so many inferior kinds of the latter
sold.

PLAN OF HERBACEOUS BORDER (Ce>:tria)}).—
Your plan is well emicrix cil, ;iful ■should give you a con-
tinuous display fiu th-^ luriod you mention, although,
of course, som*^ of the plants will not remain in flower
the whole period. You do not siiy what Coreopsis you
intend using, but if the Monarda is properly grown it
stiould overtop the former, and would, therefore, be
better behind instead of in front of the Coreopsis. C.
urandiflora is the best, but is not long-lived. But for the
fact that you require to lighten up the part occupied
by the Khododendrons in autumn, both the Monarda
and Anemone japonica would be better on the side with
slight shade. As things are, they will be better
wliere you have put them, but they should be liberally
treated. We presume you will use a white variety of
A. japonica. If you mean to use both Heueh'ra Walker's
variety and H. Rosamundc, the latter is the tuller nf the
two. If you mean Helenium purailum grandiilorum or
magnificnin by the initials *' P. G.," you will find it rather
taller than the perennial Gaillardiaa if properly grown.
With the slight alterations indicated, we think your
border should give a good effect, although much will
depend upon the seasons.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

CLIMBERS FOR COVERING THE SOUTH AND
EAST WALLS OF A MANSION QUICKLY (llamish).—
The following plants will be likely to suit your piupose :
Wistaria chinensis, W. multiiuga. Clematis montana,
C. m. rubens, Aristolochia Sipho, Hydrangea petiolaris,
Tecoma grandiflora, Vitis henryana, V. Coignetia?, Jas-
minum officinale, J. nudifiorum, and, though not climbers,
Crataegus Pyracantha and Maiinolia grandiflora. If you
do not mind very common plants, the quickest-growing
of all climbers is Ampelopsis Veitchii, while the large-
leaved Ivies also make rapid growth.

CLIMBERS FOR A WALL (A'. M a moa ring). —The
following climbers, Ac. are likely to give satisfactory
results against your wails: For the south wall, where
you wish to have Roses, use William A. lliehardson.
Gloire de Dijon, Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, Climbing'
Souvenir de la Jlalmaison, Ards Rover, Belle Lyonnaise,
Bouquet d'Or, Cheshunt Hybrid, Ards Pillar, Aim6e
Vibert and Ards Kamblcr. Against the west wall you
mi*rht plant Wistaria chinensis, Ceanothus rigidus, Mag-
nolia grandiflora and Clematis montana. On the south-
east wall Wistaria multijuga, Jusminum nudifiorum,
J. officinale and Clematis montana rubens would do well;
while the north wall might be covered with Cratasgus
Pyracantha, Ampelopsis Veitchii, and Clematis Jackmanii
and \arieties. Against the terrace wall the following
plants would thrive : Ceanothus veitchianus, Escallonia
macrantha, E. langleyeusis, Chimonanthus fragrans
grandiflora, Garrya eliiptica (male form), Hydrangea
petiolaris, Corokea Cotoneaster, Myrtus communis, Prunus
triloba florc pleno and Cydonia japonica var. cardtnalis.

TRANSPLANTING A MONKEY PUZZLE (5. A. M.).—
Had you stated the size of the tree you wish to move,
it would be easier to answer the question. The second
half of September is a very good timu to move such trees.
A tree -1 feet or 6 feet in height may be safely transplanted
by carefully digging it out with a fork, saving all the
fibrous roots possible. Lift the roots on to a mat or
large sack, on which to carry the tree to the new
position. Water the tree after planting, if necessary.
Larger trees are more safely transplanted with a large
ball of soil. A trench is first of all dug round the
tree at a convenient distance to expose the ball of
soil, 2 feet or more in diameter, according to the
size of the tree. Next bind a canvas sheet or mats
round the ball of soil with soft cord. At a convenient
depth, from 15 inches to 18 inches, work the soil from
under the ball on either side to permit two boards to be
placed in position to lift the tree. When too large to
lift out of the hole by men, a transplanting machine
may be used, or a sloping trench made down to the hole,
up which the ball of soil may be dragged on rollers and
planks. After removal, syringe the plant for a month on
every evening following a dry, sunny day.

GARDEN. I

-^^'

^=^^r^S^h^

No. 2184.— Vol. LXXVIL

September 27, 1913.

CONTENTS.

STOTES OF THF, WEEK
CORItESl'ONPENCE

Scentless Musk
The Orleans Kosc in

Scotland
A beautiful dark

Rfsc

Irii* Kasinptori in

Japan 483

Antirrhinum rupestrt'

in an Irish garden
Campanula cenisia

alba

Forthcoming events..
The Campanulas ..

Flower Garden
The Bugle Lilies, or

Watsonias . .
A Brazilian Salvia
Rose Garden

Gold medal Rosop nt
the autumn show
Colocred Plate

iiybrid Saxifrages. .
KocK AND Water Gai
M t chauxi a Tchi-
hatchcffii
Friut Garden

The Blackberry as a
garden fruit

481

I'luMT Garden-
How to cathiT anil

482

store Iiardy fruits
TiiEiis AND SHnrus

486

482

A nobli- Howeriim

siirub

487

483

GREENHOUSE

Seasonable note* on

48^

Chrvsanthcmums
Tlio Daffodil as a

487

48:!

pot plant . .
The Medusa's Head

487

48»

Orchid

4*8

4S3

Lilium spcciosum . .

488

4*^3

Gardening for Beginners

How to lift and store
Potatoi'S and other

root crops . .

48!)

The care of choice

shrubs

489

Cardexino of the \a

KEK

For .Southern gar-

484

dens

For Northern gar-

490

4SJ

dens

490

nuN

Answers to Corre-

spondents

488

Flower parden

491

Trees and shrubs . .

491

Miscellaneous

491

486

Societies

492

lEiLUSTRATIONS.

An Iris nursery in Japan 483

The pink Bugle Lily, or Watsonia io>ea 484

Salvia uliginosa 484

Hybrid Saxifrages Coloured plate

The new Hose EJgar M. Burnett 485

A stately plant of the Campanula family. Michiuxia

Tchihtitcheffii 4S6

Spiraea lindleyana in a bevonsliirc garden . . . . 487

The Medusa's Head Orchid 438

How to lift and store Potatoes and other root crop> 4S9

EDITORIAL NOTICBS.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
ssnted in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor vrlconifs photographs, articles and notes,
but he >cill not be responsible for their safe return. All
rensonabfe rare, hoivever, uill be taken, and when' stamps
are enclosed, he trill endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photogriphs. if paj/ment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must he distinclh/ understood that only the actual photo-
f/rnpher or owner of fJie copyright uHl be treated uith.

The Editor wHl^ot be responsible for the return of artistic
or literari/ contributions which he maij not be able to vse. and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article i* wcepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
^n' recognised as acceptance.

O/Tices : 20. Taiistncl: Street. Coient Garden. W.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Our Special Rose Number. — On October n

we shall publish a bpecially-enlarged number,
which will contain many interesting and practical
articles on the raising and cultivation of Roses.
The numerous illustrations will be of a unique
character, and as the date coincides with the
commencement of the planting season, there is
certain to be a great demand for that issue. We
adv.se readers who require extra copies to order
them in advance.
Japanese Grasshoppers.— At a recent meeting

of the scientific oinmittee of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society, Mr. Goodacre of Moulton Pad-
docks sent a number of Japanese grasshoppers
(Dicstrammena marmorata), and observed that
the insects had established themselves in the large
conservatory at Moulton, and had also invaded
the mansion. The problem now was to extermi-
nate them. They are large, handsome insects in
the lar\-a! stage. When fully matured they will
be very formidable-looking creatures.

A Beautiful Plantain Lily.— In Funkia tardi-
flora, as the name suggests, we have a most attrac-
tive late-fiowering Plantain Lily, at its best
towards 'the end of September or early in October.
Choose a sheltered spot to plant the roots, as an
early frost in October would spoil the flowers in
an exposed position. As an edging to a half-
shady border or a sheltered nook in the rockery,
Funkia tardiflora is especially effective. The
spikes of lilac-tinted flowers reach about a foot in
height.

Maw's Heath. — Flowering from August to
October, Erica maweana is one of our most valuable
and attractive autumn-flowering Heaths. Growing
r foot to i8 inches high, the small bushes are
freely clothed with clusters of purplish red flowers.
Its origin is uncertain ; though given in the " Kew
Hand List of Trees and Shrubs " as a variety of
E. ciliaris, it is probably a hybrid between that
species and some other Heath. In addition to its
value for planting in the pleasure grounds and
shrubbery borders. Maw's Heath is worth a place
in the rock garden.

Shirley Poppies and Cornflowers. — During
last summer, when on a visit to the gardens
of Mr. H. F. Nicholl, Bear Place, Twyford, wc
saw a pretty bed of Shirley Poppies intermixed
with Cornflowers. It was a chance shot, as they
say, but it will be repeated again. The Shirley
Poppies are showy plants, and for hardiness and
easy cultivation cannot be excelled ; while among
the Cornflowers will be found various shades of
blue, a colour lacking in the Poppies. It is one of
the loveliest of our blue-flowered annuals, and is
extremely useful for cutting and decorative pur-
poses. Seeds of the above may be sown both in
the autumn and spring, the former time being
chosen for early blooming and the latter for a
succession or later supply.

The Japanese Anemone, — The rosy carmine

Anemone japonica is well known at this season of
the year by the fine display it makes in the border
or bed. There is also a white variety known as
alba, which produces its chaste blossoms freely
from August to November ; but the best white
in commerce is undoubtedly that which goes under
the name of Geante des Blanches. The silvery
white flowers are large and about three inches or
four inches in diameter, while the plants grow
from i8 inches to 30 inches high. These Anemones
are among the handsomest of border plants. They
will thrive in almost any garden or position, and
may be readily increased by division.

Varieties of the Common Ling. — There are

numeritiis forms or varieties of Calluna or Erica
vulgaris deserving of liberal planting in the pleasure
grounds and woodland. In gardens where there
is little or no lime in the soil we ought to make
much greater use of th»se and other autumn-
flowering Heaths, as they blossom at a time when
there are few trees and shrubs in flower in the
pleasure grounds and shrubbery borders. Half-a-
dozen of the most distinct varieties are Alportii,
a strong-growing, crimson-flowered form ; Serlei,
stiff, upright growth, white ; rubra, rosy red ;
flore pleno, double rose ; alba, the popular white
Heather : and rosea, rose.
A Free-Flowering Pentstemon. — Though of

comparatively recent introduction, Pentstemon
Southgate Gem is rapidly increasing in popular
favour. A hybrid between Hartwegii (Newbury
Gem) and one of the large-flowered sorts, Southgate
Gem inherits the free-flowering qualities of Hart-
wegii, and has considerably larger bright red
flowers. For the past two months four large
beds (containing about two hundred and fifty
plants in each) in front of the Palm House at Kew
have been admired by thousands of visitors, and
a succession of flowers seems assured for some time
to come, judging by the number of unopened
buds.

Stopping Mealy Bug on Grapes. — Every gar-
dener who has attempted to grow Grapes is fully
aware of the loathsome character of the mealy
bug, an insect that ensconces itself between the
berries and renders the fruit almost useless. No
matter what precautions are taken to eradicate this
pest from the house, a few insects are almost certain
to escape. Last week, when visiting some well-
known nurseries in the Midlands, we were interested
to see that the sticky substance, such as tanglefoot,
used for grease-banding fruit trees, had been used
on the Vines. A very small quantity had been
smeared around each Vine shoot just where a bunch
had emanated, and this, the owner assured us,
had effectively prevented the insects reaching the
fruit. Certainly we failed to detect their presence
in any of the bunches the stems of which had been
so treated, and we record the method for the benefit
of those who care to give it a trial another year.
The sticky substance should be put on almost as
soon as the bunches are formed.

482

THE GARDEN.

[September 27, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Ediler 'is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Scentless Muskirv^^The old-fashioned, small Musk
in this garden, an<l' at Sudbrooke Holme, near here,
has quite lost its smell. I have had my stock
twenty-six years. — (Mrs.) E. Sandars, Scampton
Jiouse, near Lincoln:'^ '

Pplyantha Bose Leonie Lamesch. — I have

just seen this lovely Polyantha lor the first time,
and I am so enamoured of it that I cannot refrain
from bringing it to the notice of the readers
of The Gardes, so that any of them who may
contemplate planting may consider its claims to a
place in their collection. It is rightly described
as " a deep coppery red, shaded with yellow ; an
exceedingly attractive colour." I find that it
was introduced so far back as 1899. — Caledo.via.
Rose Augustine Guinoisseau. — I planted a

dwarf uf this Rose about si.\ years ago. Hitherto
it has borne normal blooms, white, tinted blush.
This year there is one bloom on it similar to La
France m colour and shape. If the Rose was
origin all V a sport of La France, as its alternative
name White La France would imply, this is an
interesting case of reversion after several years of
rutting back. I should be glad to learn whether
any of your readers have noticed the same thing
in this or any other sport. — R. F. Cobbold,
Beachampton Rectory, Stony Stratford.

Tropaeolum canariense. — When well cultivated
this plant has few rivals in the matter of furnishing
a screen, wall, or trellis with beautiful foliage and
lovely flowers. While passing a villa residence
recently I saw a very fine specimen, the largest
and best I have noticed in any garden, quite hiding
a portion of trellis and wall measuring about
nine feet by five feet. There were hundreds — 1
may say thousands — of yellow blossoms on the
plant, which was shown to great advantage by
the luxuriant and bronzing leaves of an Ampelopsis
near them. The aspect is north-west, and only
gets sunshine late in the afternoon. Splendid
plants may be raised by sowing seeds in a frame
the first week in .^pril. — Avon.

The Orleans Rose In Scotland. — One of the
best and most useful of the many good Roses
in the admirably-selected collection in the garden
of Mr. C. E. Galbraith at Terregles, Dumfries,
is the Orleans Rose, a fine bed of which has been
doing very well this season, and which was a mass
uf bloom in the beginning of September. Raised
by Levavasseur and sent out in 1909, it has rapidly
acquired great favour, and at Terregles it is highly
appreciated. Of vigorous growth, it gives an
abundance of its great trusses of flowers, which
have been well described as rosy red with a peach
centre. Roses are well grown at Terregles by
Mr. W. Hutchinson, the gardener, who thinks
highly of this fine Polyantha variety. — S. A.

The Late Blooming of Wichuraiana Roses. —
During last winter I had occasion to plant a long
row — some 400 yards — of standard wichuraianas.
The plants were not large-headed, and were
pruned back about half way. They came into
flower a fortnight later than the general run of
established plants upon the same ground, and
early in September were very fine. A lot of new
growths broke after the trying spring, and these
flowered freely. Among the best plants are Excelsa,
Debutante, Christian Curie, Delight, Hiawatha,
Minnehaha, Dorothy Dennison and the white
single type, wichuraiana alba. I have never

noticed them so full of flower so late, and wonder
if others have experienced, the same. My plants
promise to last through the best part of the present
month. American Pillar is also grand under
similar conditions now, and has been for a long
time. — A. P.
Primula littoniana Hardy in Scotland. — it

will perhaps be interesting to many readers oi
The Garden to know that tliis beautiful species,
from the mountains of Western China, has proved
perfectly hardy here. In the rockery I have a
plant in perfect health and carrying four fine
spikes. It passed through last winter's frost
unprotected, and our sev€rest frost was 31°. I
should also like to mention that P. cockburniana
and P. bulleyana have proved quite hardy here
without any protection whatever, have flowered
exceedingly well, and show every prospect of
ripening a good crop of seed. P. cockburniana
is quite perennial with us. I am planting a good
many Primula Forrestii and P. Veitchii for next
winter's test. We plant large, bold masses of each
species, and thus obtain a charming effect. —
WiLLi.\M Hunt, Saughton House, Midlothian.
Annual Larkspurs and Aster diffusus. — May

I draw the attention of your readers to an easily-
grown, cheap and effective combination either for
a single bed or for a group in an ordinary border ?
I refer to the annual Larkspur and the small-leaved
Aster diffusus. Plant single pieces, not clumps,
of the Aster in April from 2 feet to 3 feet apart
and grow to a single stem. Sow the Larkspur
between them and thin out or transplant, so that
the two plants are evenly distributed. The foliage
of the Asters supports and clothes the bare,
straggling branches of the annual, and forms an
excellent setting to the flowers. By removing the
seed-poGS the Larkspurs will keep on flow-ering
till September, when they may be pulled up, the
bed of Aster diffusus remaining for the rest of the
autumn. If the Asters show a tendency to grow
too strong, they will stand any araoimt of thinning.
A poor soil is best. — Surrey.

Salvia involucrata Bethellii. — May I ask if
any readers of The Garden are acquainted with
Salvia involucrata variety Bethellii ?• It has proved
a great success with me as a plant for the open
border, though I am told it is not quite hardy.
I had it in a cold house all last winter and planted
it out in May, when it began to grow quickly and
showed flower-buds in July, since which it has
gone on developing spike after spike of brilliant
rose pink flowers, the bush being now 3J feet
high and as much across. The leaves are a beautiful
shining green and the stems reddish, the whole
forming an extremely handsome plant. The side
shoots are now preparing to bloom, so that if mild
weather continues it will be even more showy in
a few weeks' time than it is now. It seems to me
a plant well worth growing, even if I cannot keep
it out of doors through the winter, but I do not
feel at all certain that this is the case. — Selina
Randolph, Chaiiham, Canterbiirv.

Growing Lilium giganteum. — There is no doubt

that a partially-shaded spot is best for this noble
Lily, while a sandy border in a town garden referred
to on page 419 is as undesirable r place as well
could be. In any attempt to grow it in poor,
sandy soil, a large hole should be taken out and
filled with some good compost, in which, however,
crude manure plays no part. Another important
feature is that, though large bulbs are often offered
during the winter months, they rarely, if ever, give
satisfaction, as they already contain the flowers
in embryo, and have not time to become established

before the stem is pushed up. The blossoms are
therefore mainly dependent for tjieir development
upon the substance of the bul-b, and consequently
the stem is puny and the flowers the same. The
bulbs should he, planted' when small, so that there
is ample time for tjiem to become established before
the strain of flowering come? round. — H. P.

About Two Old Roses. — We have two beautiful
old varieties growing en a fence that are scarcely
ever referred to, namely. Rose Ophirie and the
Yellow Banksian Rose. But what a vast differ-
ence in their behaviour we experience ! Both
grow splendidly, and there the latter stops, while
Ophirie never fails to flower. It was, the first
week in August, covered with some very fine
flowers, which are of a salmon and coppery hue.
As the flowers expand they have a flatfish appear-
ance, not unlike those of Gloire de Dijon. The
colour of Rose Ophirie makes a very pleasing
contrast from the many shades of reds and pinks
of the rambler section. Our plant is growing on a
south-west fence. Growing next to it, some of their
growths being interlaced, is the Yellow Banlisian
Ross, and I. can honestly write it has not yielded
one handful of flowers during the last ten years —
the time it has been planted. It is a most healthy
plant, with fine, clean growths and glossv foliage.
The latter is one of its good features, and being
thornless is another ; but all leaves and no flowers
for ten years is a bit too " barefaced." And so
it is quite possible that the year 1913 will ring
its death knell. — C. T.. Ken View Garden,
Highgate.

Protecting Rambler Roses. — " Amateur " on
page 442 mentions the tenderHess of ramblers
during winter. The idea of lifting as a means
of checking the late sap so prevalent with
this class of vigorous grower is good, and I
have found some live a little better through
it. But one cannot lift old, well-wooded speci-
mens, nor will the bulk of last season's growth
be of much service for future blooming, unless it ■
can be brought through the winter and still remain I
upon more or less established roots. " Amateur " ■
does not state where he lives, but I can confirm the
havoc done by the severe early frosts in the North ;
and upon more than one occasion ramblers have
suffered sadly in the colder districts, especially if
accompanied by keen winds. A slight lifting
or root pruning with the spade as the plants stand
would probably check sap a little ; but if the ground
is warm, new roots would at once spring out and
afford an even later supply until frost came. Much
might be done towards securing better and more
finished growth if the shoots were kept thinned
to allow of ample light and air among the wood.
In a bleak and exposed position any Rose will
suffer from sharp frost, and the fact of our
ramblers growing so late during the moister days
of autumn makes them far more liable to attack
than Roses which naturally mature earlier. A
little protection in the way of large, feathered
branches of Hazel, Spruce or Gorse, placed at a
little distance and upon the weafher side of the
plants, has been tried, with excellent results ; but
I do not quite like the idea of wrapping the growths
in Bracken or straw. Some of our ramblers
and some of the newer Hybrid Wichuraianas are
more tender than others. I have found .American
Pillar, Framjois Crousse, Gloire de Dijon, Helene,
Longworth Rambler, Mme. .Alfred Carriere, Poly-
antha grandiflora, Reve d'Or, Trier, Felicite
Perpetue, Dawn, and the weeping form of Rosa
rugosa (R. r. repens alba) about the hardiest of
all pillar or rambling Roses. — .\. P.

SEPTEMBETv 27, I913.

THE GARDEN.

483

A Beautiful Dark Rose. — I should like to call

atli'iitiiMi t.i Ki'Si- Chateau <lc Clus V'ougeot. It
is one 111 tlie best, if not the best, black maroon
Koses which we have for bedding. Its colour
may he best described as blackish maroon shaded
with fiery red and velvety crimson. So far as I have
been able to judge, it is better on the Briar stock
than on the Manetti. On good land the growth
is fairly vigorous, but it is advisable for bedding
puqioses to plant rather thickly, 18 inches apart
being a suitable distance from plant to plant.
It is a good autumn Rose, good flowers being pro-
duced at the date of writing (September ig). So
far our plants are quite free from mildew, although
I'ther varieties of Roses near by are affected. —
toMN Ruse, Siiltiamsteatl.
Iris Kaempferi in Japan. — The accompanying

illustration shows a portion <•{ the Iris grounds of the
Yokohama Nursery Company in
Japan. This delightful spot is
situated a few miles from the head
nursery in Yokohama, and is reached
by tram and traiti. When the
flowers are at their best, the gardens
are extensively advertised through-
out Japan, and thousands of visitors
go there annually. It is un-
doubtedly the largest Iris Ksmpferi
nursery in the world, covering many
acres in extent. The exports of this
popular plant are made in mid-
winter, when the clumps are quite
dormant. They are usually packed
in small cases, and travel most
successfully to all parts of the
world. Judging from the large,
well-flowered groups of this plant
exhibited at recent exhibitions in
England, its cultivation has evidently
much improved in this country.

Antirrtiinum rupestre in an Irish
Garden. — This phmt differs so mucli
from the erect-growing kinds th.at a
few remarks as to its qualities and
habit of growth may not be out o(
place. As a rock plant it has few
rivals. Its sulphur and yellow flowers
contrast well with the scarlet Lotus
peliorhyncus. Both plants are of a
trailing habit, and will creep over
rocks in a most wonderful fashion.
.\. rupestre should be planted in
sandy soil, always choosing a sheltered
position. It is quite hardy here,
and will live out of doors all the
year round and continue in blof)m imtil late
in the autmnn. It may be also seen here in company
with that beautiful scarlet Tropxohmi speciosum,
which annually makes its way through a closely-
ilipped Privet hedge fidly 4 feet in height, on the
top of which it wanders carelessly, bearing its
racemes of brilliant scarlet flowers and forming a
picture of beauty more easily imagined than
described. Peeping here and there through the
Privet hedge may be seen healthy sprays of A.
rupestre, which has travelled from the bottom,
the flowers and foliage of which differ so much
from the other subjects as to give a most pleasmg
effect. A. rupestre may be propagated by cut-
tings in the autumn or by seed sown in gentle
heat in early spring. I consider the latter method
of propagation the best, as the plants come stronger
and furnish better. — S. Bryan, Fortlula House,
Terenure. Counly Dublin.

Campanula cenisia alba. — This really very
lovely plant is now ui full flower for the second
time this summer. I owe it to the kindness of .1
fellow-entliusiast, Mr. Tucker of Oxford ; but
tlie remoter history of the form I do not know,
though I remember that an albino was once dis-
covered by Mme. Correvon. Often though I
have found the species myself, I do not think I
have ever seen anything more marked in the way
of variation than_ a delicate silver pale form ;
certainly no albino. And wonderful as is the
subtle grey-blue charm of C. cenisia, type, huddled
in dense masses of blossom tight among the dark
stones of the highest moraines, it must undoubtedly
yield to the beauty of this albino, which is as generous
of blossom as its original, but with large flowers
of the richest creamy whiteness, most fascinating
to behold. It is growing robustly in a mixture of

THE CAMPANULAS.

WITH reference to the excellent
series of papers on Campanula
now running through The
(iARDEN, may I point out that
C. alpestris, All. 1755, is the
prior, and therefore the only
proper name for C. Allionii, Vill. 1779. Let all
gardeners and catalogues promptly take note.
No obscurity is involved ; the point is absolutely
plain and certain. The oldest name, like tnith,
must in all cases ultimately prevail, although,
like truth's, the battle may often be doubtful
and long. Well do I know the bitterness of thus
having to change names and revise conceptions,
yet nowadays it is of the most vital importance,
alike to buyers and fellers, that we should all make

.\N IRIS NURSERY l.V JAPAN.

peat, leaf-mould and very rough sand in a bed
where watep is perpetually percolating from a
pierced pipe some t2 inches below the surface.
This will, of course, he turned off in the winter,
and in the meantime this rather difficult and
exacting species so wholly appreciates its treatment
that not only is it thriving heartily itself, but has
also deposited already at least three prosperous
seedlings — a freedom of which I have never yet
known C. cenisia to be guilty of in the garden
before. And such care, so rewarded, is well deserved
by a species so delicately lovely as C. cenisia
with its albino. — Reginald Farrer.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

October r. — National Chrysanthemum Society's
Show at the Crystal Palace (two days). County
Clare Horticultural Society's Fruit and Farm
Produce Show.

a great effort to secure uniformity and accuracy
in our nomenclature, for even bitterer than learn-
ing a right name instead of a wrong is the bitter-
ness of buying some expensive novelty imder
half-a-dozen different names, and then, at the end,
discovering that it is really some quite ordinary
plant that you had all along possessed under
another.

Yet more conspicuous, however, is the fearful
confusion that now rages in gardening books as
well as in The Garden, in all catalogues and
all gardens alike, over C. pusilla and C. c-espitosa.
To this confusion I myself have also added no
longer ago than last year. Let me now make
amends by an attempt to unveil truth. First
of all, the plant universally prevailing in our
gardens under various names and in varying forms
is everywhere and always C. pusilla, Haenke
(C. modesta and C. pumila are nomina nuda\

484

THE GARDEN.

[September 27 1913

THE PINK BUGLE LILY OR VVATSONIA
ROSEA.

To C. pusilla belong all the named forms, such as
C. p. Miss Willmott and the very glorious C. p.
Miranda, on which a note has already appeared
prematurely in The Garden — prematurely in that
C. Miranda dare not face popular enthusiasm
for some time yet to come. No description is
necessary of C. pusilla; no garden is without it.
On the other hand, C. caspitosa. Scop., is a perfectly
distinct and sound species, almost, if not wholly,
unknown in cultivation, although of the most
remarkable beauty and the most easy-going
constitution. It may be recognised at once by
its characteristics — one dense caespitose tuft from
a single tap-root, never ramifying after the fashion
of C. pusilla ; the barren shoots very densely packed
with stiff, lanceolate, shining little leaves, which
are also crowded at the base of the fiower-stems
(I see no diagnostic of difference between the two
species in the form of leaf itself). These are much
taller and slenderer than in C. pusilla, attaining
often to 15 inches to i8 inches, whereas C. pusilla
seldom, if ever, exceeds 6 inches. The flowers are
more numerous along the upper part of the stem,
delicately pendulous at intervals. They are of a
rich soft blue, longitudinally ribbed in a marked
and most attractive way, and slightly constricted
towards the mouth so as to have the effect of a
little swinging Japanese lantern. This most
delightful of Campanulas belongs to the Eastern
ranges. The most westerly record of my own
is in the Ampezzothal between Toblach and
Cortina, where it occurs rather sparsely and out
of character; whereas in the Karawanken it comes
to its full delicacy of glory, waving blue carillons
over all the roadside banks and gravelly cuttings
with the wiry, airy grace of Dierama pulcherrimum.

(Is it possible the Royal Horticultural Society's
Journal should allow this to be spoken of as
Dierama pulcherri»i3 ? Oh! that fatally feminine-
looking Greek neuter termiTiation in "ma"; yet
.Kthioneraa gets its right gender n.}wadays.)
C. ca;spitosa is a more lowland plant than C. pnsilla,
which seemed to me curiously rare and alpine
ni the Karawanken. I only happened on it once
liigh up, when the botanist who accompanied me
called it C. Scheuchzeri — a fact which sheds a
lurid light on the confusions that arise in gardens
among plants purchased from " collectors." C.
casspitosa never, I think, ascends to the usual
altitudes of C. pufeilla, but in its own ranges replaces
C. pusilla in sandy, gravelly places, banks, road-
sides, field, margins and cuttings. These con-
ditions, or, indeed, any others, suit it admirably
in cultivation, where it is not a whit less hearty
and satisfactory than C. pusilla, setting up, too,
to claim our affection with a beauty wholly distinct
from that of its rival, a beauty sparkling and gracious
and full of an airy charm beyond the reach or aim
of the lower-growing, stumpier and more invasive
little harebells of C. pusilla. Reginald Farrer.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

THE BUGLE LILIES, OR WATSONIAS.

THE Bugle Lilies, or Watsoniai, are at trac-
ti\ e and interesting plants, hailing from
South Africa. There are only two
species which are at present popular
in gardens, viz., Watsonia alba, otlier-
w.se known as W. Ardemei, and W.
rosea, and as they are now procurable at a
cheap rate and of easy culture, there is
no possible reason why they should not become
more popular still, as they are admirably adapted
for general garden decoration as well as for
pot culture. For growing in the border, suc-
cessional plantings during spring will result in a
flowering period extending from July to October.
When planted on heavy soil, it is perhaps advisable
to lift after flowering, drying well, and storing
as in the case of choice Gladioli, replanting them
the following spring ; but in certain cases on light
soils they can remain out during the winter if a
light covering of Bracken or other light material
is pro\ided.

Watsonia rosea, the subject of the illustration,
is a time-honoured favourite in our gardens, having
been introduced from South Africa so long ago as
1803. It has recently been shown in quantity, of
surpassing beauty, by Mr. James Box of Hayward's
Heath. By some botanical authorities it has been
described and figured under the name of Gladiolus
pyramidatus. ."Mthough not so often seen in gardens
as Watsonia alba, it is, nevertheless, a pretty species,
growing over four feet in height, with bright rose
flowers, freely disposed, on long branching spikes,
and long, broad green leaves. Other species ol
this family occasionally met with, such as Watsonia
angusta (with small scarlet flowers), W. coccinea
( flowers bright crimson), and W. densiflora, are among
the best of ttiis small family of bulbous plants.

A BRAZILIAN SALVIA.

(S. ri.IGINOSA.)

Considerable interest is being displayed in this
Salvia, which hails from Brazil and is described
in last week's issue (page 476) under the heading
of " New and Rare Plants." This species has
recently received an award of merit from the Royal

Horticultural Society. In many ways it is less
attractive than other species well known to culti-
vation, but Mr. Turner of Slough, who exhibited
the plant on the occasion referred to, describes it
as a hardy herbaceous perennial. It is unques-
tionably a near ally of Salvia azurea and S.
Pitcheri, both well-known greenhouse plants ;
but there is reason to hope that the new-comer
will prove hardier than either of these. S. uliginosa
is a vigorous grower, reaching 4 feet to 6 feet in
height, and the flowers, produced in dense termi-
nating spikes, supply a clear shade of azure blue
that is almost certain to be greatly prized in the
gardens of this countrv.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

GOLD MEDAL ROSES AT THE
AUTUMN SHOW.

THERE was much speculation as to what
Ireland would send in the matter of
new Roses, for it is well known that
the three eminent raisers in the
Emerald Isle have a wealth of novelties
of a quality never yet attained before.
However, the weather has been against them, as
it has been for us in England, and this was reflected
in the novelties staged, some of which were, no
doubt, excellent, but scarcely up to the standard
necessary for a gold medal. The awarding of

SALVIA uliginosa, NATIVE Ol THE MARSH
LANDS AND RIVER BANKS Ol' BRAZIL

Stippleiiicnt lo THE GARDEN, September 27 th, 1913.

^ -^

i

V-

SOME NEW HYBRID SAXIFRAGAS.

1. Comet. 3. Rose Beauty.

2. Oculata rosea. 4. Sanguinea superba.

Hiiilson & A'etii/ii, Ltd.. niiiU-rs. LviuUni, S.E.

Sll'TEMBKK 27, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

485

(jDld medals is liecuiiiiiig nuitc a fan c. When one
lit these coveted mortals is awaidcd, as it was on
this occasion, to a Rose like

Moonlight (the Rev. J. H. I'emberton), it seems
\\\f lififihl of absurdity. If the award had gone to
Uanae, I should not have been surprised, because
this Rose is a great advance in colour in this new
section of Hybrid Multifloras ; but to give it to
Moonlight, whxh can only claim being " pretty,"
is an error of judgment. I believe the award
was only given by a bare majority. Now in

Muriel Dickson (Hugh Dickson, Limited) we
h.ivo one nl the most striking novelties. Perhaps
the casual onlooker would not see anything great
about it ; but the writer, who has seen it in Ireland,
can give it unciualified praise. The
colour is a wonderful shade of
cerise, with quite an orange
glow about it. This latter colour
comes from its relationship to the
wonderful Penietiana group, a
relationship that is manifest in
its growth as well as in its bloom.
The flower is of a fine bold type that
will ensure it a great popularity.

Edward Bohane (Ale.\. Dickson

.Old Sinis) IS .ilso a "great" Rose,
of the wonderful colour of a very
good George C. Waud, with a more
massive petal. Tliis variety was
illustrated in Tnii (iARDen of
October 12, I'liz, page 51.1. Tin-
growth is splendid and the foliage
superb. I have seen this at Ncw-
townards, and have no hesitation
in saying it is worthy to be termed
a genuine " Hawlmark " variety-
Edgar M. Burnett (S, McClrcdy
aiul Sou) IS .1 giant anuiug blush
pink Roses, and will be a most
useful variety for the show-bo.\
and for the garden. See illustra-
tion. Its colour seems to
come midway between La Tosca
and Lady Mary Fitzwilliam, and
it has immense petals, perfectly
arranged. I'Yom the plant cx-
hiliited it is evidently a luie garden
Rose a'so.

Red Letter Day (.Uex. Dak-
sun .tnd S"i;s) ol)tained the
coveted gold medal, and, 1
think, quite worthily, for al-
tliough only a semi-double flower,
it is of such a glorious rich
blackish crimson colour and so pro-
fuse in its blooming that it will
be a really splendid addition to
garden Roses and a formidable
rival to Irish Fireflame and Irish
Elegance. Red Letter Day is a splendid grower,
one that can be used for a 5-feet or 6-feet hedge,
or even more, and is constantly in bloom. When I
saw it in its home at Newtownards recently it
caught the eye immediately, and I was much
impressed by its gorgeous colour and effect on the '
plants. It is gratifying to know that all three
of the Irish raisers are paying attention to these
garden Roses as well as to those of the exhibition
type, and I especially welcome such sorts as Muriel
Dickson and Edward Bohane, which may be used !
for both purposes, for this is what we want
nowadays — Roses that are splendid in the
garden, yielding blooms of quality in rxh
profusion. Danecroft.

COLOURED PLATE,

PLATE 1477,

HYBRID SAXIFRAGES.

THE great rise iu popularity of rock
gardening has been accompanied by
a corresponding improvement among
Ihose flowers which are essential to
the alpine garden. At no time have
the Mossy Saxifrages been in greater
than they are to-day. Among those to
wc arc indebted for improved varieties
sliould be mentioned Mrs. Lloyd Edwards, whose
exhibits of these cliarming flowers, notably at

favour
whom

THE NEW ROSE EDGAR M. BURNETT. AWARDED THE NATIONAL
ROSE society's GOLD MED.\L.

the Royal Horticultural Society's meetings, have
aroused much interest from an admiring public.
In the matter of the hybridisation of the Mossy
Saxifrages, Mrs. Lloyd Edwards' experience is here
related in her own words :

" A few years ago the only Mossy Saxifrages
with coloured flowers of any size were S. Rhei
superba and S. Guildford Seedling, the former
with pale rose flowers of good form, and the latter
with rather small, bright red flowers, not very free-
flowering or particularly vigorous in growth. One
spring a self-sown seedling Mossy Saxifrage appeared
in my little rock garden. It was probably a
cross between S. Rhei superba and a cream-coloured,
hairy variety called, I think, S. hirta, as it had

some characteristics of each ; but it was a great
improvement on ' both in every way. This I
I named .'\pple Blossom, and it gave me the idea
1 of trying to produce some large-flowered, bright-
coloured varieties by hybridising. I had already
had great success in trying to get a free-flowering
race of Heucheras by this means. I used the
I new seedling S. Apple Blossom, S. Rhei superba
' and S. Guildford Seedling, and soon got some
very beautiful large-flowered Mossies of different
shades of colour and vigorous growth. About
this time Messrs. Thompson and Morgan of Ipswich
advertised among their seed novelties S. decipiens
hybrida grandiflora. I bought a packet and crossed
some of the resulting seedlings with my own,
to their mutual improvement. A
line red seedling I named Ruby.
This flowered twice in its first sea-
son, and was purchased by Messrs.
Clibran's representative for a small
sum. He saw it in flower in the
autumn and was much struck by if.
.\s S. C'libranii it has ga'ned a con-
siderable reputation. T continued
selecting and cross-fertilising ULy
best seedlings and produced Red
.\dmiral, an improvement on Cli-
l)ranii in size and colour. I wanted
a really blood red Saxifrage, free-
flowering and of compact growth,
and in time got S. sanguinfa
superba. It shows in its neat, finely-
cut foliage that S. Guildford Seed-
ling was anmng its ancestors, and,
as far as colouring is concerned, 1
lliink uo redder Saxifrage can be
pKiduiriL In the processof obtain-
ing it 1 got many beautiful rose
coloured and shaded Saxifrages,
notably S. rosea superba, a very
fine, free - flowering early variety
with dark stems and red buds ; and
S. Rose Beauty, with beautifully-
shaped flowers with small centres,
which flowers very late. There was
an idea that S. decipiens hybrida
grandiflora of .Messrs. Thonipsot:
and Morgan liad been partly pro-
duced from S. granulata ; but none
that I raised showed any trace of
such parentage. I, however, experi-
mented in this direction and effected
a cross between one of my finest red
Mossies and a wild S. granulata.
and from this raised Comet, White
Queen, &c. These show their deriva-
tion very plainly in their partly
granulated roots, leafy tufted
growth, and in partially or
wholly losing their leaves for a
longer or shorter time. Nearly all the seedlings
were white ; some had pink buds ; but, so far,
I have not raised a red granulata hybrid. All
are extraordinarily floriferous. The second genera-
tion of this cross produced some very beautiful
large Mossy Saxifrages, such as Mrs. J. F. Totten-
ham and S. oculata rosea, which, with S. sanguinea
superba, S. Rose Beauty and S. Comet, is shown
in the coloured plate.

" I referred above to my first attempt at im-
proving plants by hybridisation. That well-
known amateur gardener, the late Rev. C. Wolley-
Dod, gave me a dingy pink hybrid Heuchera
from which I succeeded in getting many charming
varieties by crossing it with H. sanguinea."

486

THE GARDEN.

[September 27, 191;:

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

MICHAUXIA TCHIHATCHEFFir.

THIS stately plant, belonging to the
Order Canipanulace«, is a native of
Asia Minor, and in our gardens grows
IjL'st in a very sunny, well-drained
border or against a south wall, its
largo, fleshy and brittle roots requiring
a thorough rest and no standing water from
September to April. The growing season of this
plant is surprisingly short, as directly after ripen-
ing its seed in .August the stems and leaves die
completely down. The root " throws up "
again in March and .April, and it will attain
great age when planted in a suitable posi-
tion. Unless it is absolutely necessary, a
plant once suited should on no accoun
be shifted, as it intensely dislikes removal.
The most satisfactory way of propagating
is by seed, which germinates readily, but
takes four years to reach the fiowering
stage. Th-s Michau.xia produces branch-
ing spikes 3 feet to 4 feet high, covered in
June and July with very pale blue, almost
white, flowers, somewhat resembling Pas-
sion Flowers, the petals of which are
turned back, while the stigma is very large
and conspicuous. The foliage is of a
glaucous colour and very hirsute. The
flowers of Michauxia Tcliihatcheffii never
vary much in colour, though another
species, M. cauipauuloides, of easier
culture, has rose to white flowers.

Reginald A. Malbv.

many thousands of houses similarly situated in
London and other towns. To those who care for
tlie Blackberry and who may have places such as
I have described which they wish to have screened,
I very strongly recommend them to plant the
humble Blackberry. One of the best sorts to
plant is the variety named Parsley-leaved.

A word as to the culture adopted. This is
simple, and entails but little trouble and practically
no cost. The corner of the garden in which the
plant was planted was trenched and liberally
manured four years ago. During the summer
months thejborder is mulched witli rotten stable

THE

THE

FRUIT GARDF.N.

BLACKBERRY AS A
GARDEN FRUIT.

AS tliis is the season of the Black-
berry, perhaps a word in its
favour as showing its useful-
. uess and value under culti-
^ vation, in contradistinctioii
to its value as a hedgerow
fruit, may be useful to town as well as
to comitry readers of The Garden. Four
years ago I had a few young plants sent
me of a variety which was said to be
par excellence a good sort. I had been
for some time looking out for a useful
climbing plant for the purpose of
making a screen from one portion of
the garden, and also to afford some shade
to the kitchen window from the midday
sun. I concluded that these would be
useful for the purpose, and planted two
of them, erecting a rough trellis of poles
for the plants to ramble over. One of
the plants took the lead over the other,
and is now practically responsible for the fruit since
gathered, and also for forming an effective screen.
The result is that the year before last we gathered
7lb. of fruit ; last year we gathered i61b. ; and this
year, up to date (September 8), we have gathered
241b., with a promise of from 61b. to lolb. more to
come. The fruit is large — half as large again as
the hedgerow Blackberry — an intense black colour.

STATELY PLANT OF THE CAMPANULA
MICHAUXIA TCHIHATCHEFFII.

FAMILY,

manure, and, during the whole tinu' the fruit is
swelling, the border receives heavy occasional
waterings, averaging about once a fortnight.
The border is 5 feet by 5 feet.

The shoots the plant is making this year are most
vigorous, many of them being 20 feet long. These
will produce the best fruits next year. These
shoots are permitted to grow freely, as they will.

and sweet. It has proved most useful. Mixed until all the fruit has been gathered. Then the
with Apples, it is excellent for tarts and puddings, ' branches which have borne fruit are overhauled,
and for jelly, either alone or mixed with Apples. \ and all the weakest of them cut out down to their
The plant I am speaking of is growing in a London base to make room for the young branches spoken
suburban garden under the same conditions as of above. O. T.

HOW TO GATHER AND STORE
HARDY FRUITS.

Apples and Pears must receive first attention,
as they are the most important of our hardy
fruits for long storage. Medlars, Quinces and
Nuts also deserve great care in the matter of
storing. There is no need to pay particular atten-
tion to the storing of the earliest Apples and
Pears, as these are quickly used up ; but the
varieties that are wanted for use throughout
the winter and spring should have, and deserve,
great care bestowed on them, as there are few
other kinds of fruits to take their place.

Gathering and Grading. — Many culti-
vators in this ruuutry entirely neglect to
pay special attention to the gathering and
grading of the fruits, and consequently,
through this carelessness, much loss
results. Wherever possible, steps should
be used instead of ladders, as the latter
must be supported by the branches, and
when the weight of the person gathering
is added to it, the pressure often causes
much bruising of fruits. Steps stand
clear of the branches, and, when firmly
fixed, are safer than ladders, which are
supported, in many instances, by slender
branches only, Very often the gatherer
phues the fruits in an apron pocket, an
apron tied up, or in a bag. The fruits
roll to and fro with every movement of
the workman, and so the first bruises are
made. They are also placed in baskets,
trugs or boxes without any soft lining of
moss or wood-wool being put in, and
frequently rolled out of all such receptacles
on to a bench or shelf, and the second
lot of bruises are made, b'ruits so treated
will not keep in a sound condition through-
out tlie winter months. The proper way
to gatlier .Apples and Pears is to grasp
each specimen firmly with the fingers,
raise it to a horizontal position, when,
if ripe enough, it will readily part from
the branch, and place it gently on a layer
of soft material in a flat basket or box.
Several baskets should be in use at the
same time, and, when filled as suggested,
carried to the store-room, and the fruits
removed to the shelves separately. If
the grading cannot be conveniently done
when the fruit is being gathered, it can
when it is placed on the shelves. Give
the finest fruits the best positions in the
store-room, the seconds in the next best
position, and the small ones in heaps or
on shelves by themselves, As they should
be used first. Apples do best in the coolest
part of a room. Shelves made of clean,
unpainted battens are the best. Do not
use straw on which to place the fruits,
and put them down. in single layers.
Ventilation is a very important matter. Sliding
ventilators should be fi.xed in the walls near the
bottom, and also near the eaves, and the openings
covered with perforated zinc sheets. The most
suitable store-rooiu is one on the north side of a
high wall or other building. Thatched sheds are
very suitable, because the fluctuation of the internal
temperature is less than in sheds tiled or slated.
Medlars must be placed in single layers on
shelves covered with sand. Nuts keep very well
if stored in stone jars, and either buried in dry
ground or covered with soil on the floor of a quite
cold shed. G. ti

Sei'tembek 27, 191.

THE GARDEN.

487

TREES

A

AND SHRUBS.

s

NOBLE FLOWERING SHRUB.

I'lK.-EA I.INDLEVANA, llie noblest of all
the shrubby Spiraeas, is a native of the
Himalayas, and sometimes, under favour-
able circumstances, attains a height of
15 feet. This is the height of the specimen
shown in the accompanying illustration.
Us diameter being i8 feet. A large example in
a well-chosen situation, backed by evergreens at
some little distance, is, when producing its spread-
ing panicl:-s of ivory white flowers, an exceedingly
handsome object. It possesses an additional
charm in its graceful, pinnate leaves, which lend
to tlie shrub, even when not in bloom, a highly
decorative effect. It should never bcj^rclegated,
as, unfortunately, is too
'Urn the case, to the
u'lwded collection of
heterogeneous subjects
too often dignified by the
name of " shrubbery,"
wliere its roots are robbed
ol moisture by its hungry
neighbours and crowded
branches deny it the
power to express its grace-
ful symmetry.

When growing in pro.x-
iniity to water, as is the
subject of the illustration,
it exhibits exceeding
vigour and speedily
reaches a large size. It is
towards tlie close of July,
when its great wliite
flower panicles are in
perfection, that it attains
the zenith of its loveli-
ness. Then almost every
fresh green spray is ter-
minated by a spreadiuf,'
white plume from
18 inches to 2 feet in
length, and a delightful
picture is presented such
as few inmates of the
garden can rival. Indis-
criminate pruning, which
is too often indulged ui,
should be avoided. Many
specimens which would
otherwise reveal them-
selves in their true form
are prevented from so

doing by being cut hard back yearly. .■\!1
that is necessary is to cut out the wealdy shoots
and to shorten back old flowering wood to a strong
bud. Beautiful as is the picture of this Spiraea
in full bloom, it has, unfortunately, the demerit
of being a fleeting one, and in this respect com-
pares unfavourably with the blossoms of its American
relative, Spireea arisfolia or discolor, which retain
their purity for a considerably longer period.

The subject of this note, with S. arisfolia and S.
flagelliformis, also known under the names of
S. canescens and S. hypericifolia, are three fine
shrubby Spiraeas that are well worthy of choice
positions in the garden. Though delighting in
leep and moist soil and never so happy as
when growing by the water-side. S. lindleyana
often seeds freely, and in many cases large
specimens may be found surrounded by young
self-sown seedlings. Wv.n'dham Fitzherbert.

THE GREENHOUSE.

1

T

SEASONABLE NOTES ON CHRY-
SANTHEMUMS.

will be advisable to earelully examine for-
ward buds at least twice every day, and so
watch for the showing of the colour of the
flower-petals. Directly they show colour,
or even if the scale in the centre bursts and
exposes to view the points of the petals,
the plants must be placed in the greenhouse,
I'each-housc or vinery, whichever is most con-
venient. The first plants to house will be those
naturally late flowering, the buds on which will be
quite forward now if taken early in August, and
a few of the naturally early flowering sorts, which,

SPIR^A HNDLEV.\NA IN A DEVO.\SHIRE GARDEN

despite the careful manipulation of the shoots by
the cultivator, will have home buds somewhat
early. It is worse than useless to leave such buds
exposed to rains and night dews, as they would
quickly decay. Small buds containing only a
few fiower-petals would not be damaged by such
exposure, but the large, fat buds would retain the
collected moisture near the base of the petals, and
early decay would set in there.

The House Facing North. — Of course, amateur
cultivators do n(.)t always possess glass structures
from which a selection may be made suitable for
the accommodation of these plants. If, however,
there is a house facing the north and not unduly
overshadowed by trees or buildings, it will be a
capital one in which to place the plants, as the
latter require shelter but plenty of light and air
without exposure to strong simshine. In an
early vinery where the Vines have been partially

pruned back, or a Peach-house, the plants may be
placed in single rows. Probably there will be room
for them on both sides of the path. In a lean-to
house the tall plants might be arranged in a row
near the back wall, with a row of dwarf-growing
plants in front. In such cases three rows of plants
can be arranged, and they generally do remark-
ably well. In the case of a very small house,
only the very best plants should be put in. A
temporary shelter can be put up against a wall
for the protection of the remainder, as cultivators
often grow more plants than they can find room
for under glass in the autumn. A current of air
passing through the house will not be harmful, but
beneficial, during the week or ten days following
the placing of the plants under cover. At the end of
this period ventilation must be ample, without cold
draughts blowing directly
on to the foliage, else the
latter will soon become
l)adly mildewed.

' Timing Blooms.—

Many inexperienced cul-
tivators would like to
know how long a bud
takes to develop into a
lull -centred flower. A
naturally late - flowering
sort belonging to the
Japanese section requires
a little more than six
weeks from the date when
the points of the petals
can be clearly seen. If
we take Frances Jolliile
<is an example of a
medium early-flowering
Viiriety, five weeks are
required. In order to
get well-built, full-centred
blooms of late sorts of
the uicurved section, six
weeks must be allowed.
The very early ones will
open in about four
weeks, and some of the
;>ingle-flowered sorts in
rather less time still.
During the first stages of
I he development of the
i>loonr, progress seems
slow, and, indeed, it is
I ompared to the progress
made after the flower is
half open. It is better
to give every bud proper
time, rather than be obliged to, force backward
blooms just prior to the date of the show. .\von.

THE DAFFODIL AS A POT PLANT.

Beautiful and useful as are Tulips and Hyacinths,
I think that when well grown the Daffodil even
eclipses these favourites as a pot plant. Forcing,
as it is generally understood, the Daffodil will
not stand, especially in the earlier stages of growth ;
but by the exercise of a little care very fine flowers
may be had several weeks before they appear out
of doors. When required for pot culture, the
very best selected bulbs should be purchased.
These are a few shillings per hundred dearer than
ordinary stock, but will produce 25 per cent, to
50 per cent, more flowers, and these of very fine
quality. The bulbs may be potted up at any time
from August to October — the earlier the better,
as a rule. Select clean 6-inch and 7-inch pots, and

488

THE GARDEN.

[September 27, 1913.

allow a fair quantity nl drainage. Thi' soil should
be of f;ood quality, liut nut over-rich. .\ good
medium is best fibrous turf, three parts ; leaf-
mould, two parts ; sharp sand, one part. No
manure should be used, but a 6-inch potful of
bone-meal to each barrow-load of compost is very
beneficial.

In potting, try, to leave the compost rather
loose under the bulbs, but quite firm on the
surface. The tops of the bulbs should not be
quite covered with the potting soil. After potting,
water well ; then stand the pots closely together
on a hard bottom out of doors and plunge in sand,
or even old cutting soil. Ashes, unless they have
lain exposed for a couple of years, should not be
used, for the sulphur present in fresh ashes is very
harmful to young vegetation. Daffodils should be
left in the plunging material for quite three months.
At the end of that time they should be placed in a
cold frame with the sashes well matted for a week
or ten days. Afterwards admit plenty of light
and air, and at the end of three or four weeks

the appearance of a head with very long, dis-
hevelled hair, which induced the late Dr. Lindley
to call the plant the Medusa's Head Orchid. It
is a native of Singapore, and is sometimes known
as Cirrhopetalum Medusa, being first introduced
by Messrs. Loddiges of Hackney in 1841. Bulbo-
phyllums are for the most part more interesting
to the botanist than to the Orchid fancier, but
the one named and B. barbigerum never fail
to attract attention. Their dwarf habit and
preference for a light and airy position render them
suitable subjects for Teak-wood baskets, so that
they can be suspended froni the roof of the warm
house. A suitable compost consists of Osmimda
fibre and sphagnum moss. During active growth
a humid and warm atmosphere is essential, but
while at rest cooler surroundings are preferable. S.

LILIUM SPECIOSUM.

The practice of retarding Lily bulbs winch is
at the present time so extensively carried out

THE MEDUSA b HEAD. AN ORCHID OF SINISTER APPEARANCE.

remove to a cool greenhouse. Use no more fire-
heat than just enough to repel frost. When
flower-buds show a little, more warmth will do no
harm ; but at no time attempt forcing. When in
full growth, a mild stimulant should be given twice
a week. While quite a number of Daffodils succeed
well in pots, the following are always reliable ;
Victoria, Emperor, Golden Spur, Henry Irving,
Sir Watkin and Mme. de Graaff. C. Blair.

Ficslon House Ganhns, Linlithgow.

THE MEDUSA'S HEAD ORCHID.

(BULBOPHVLLUM MeDUS.«.)

This curious plant was exhibited at a recent
meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society by
E. de L. Quincey, Esq., Oakhurst, Chislehurst,
when he received a cultural commendation for a
specimen with seventeen heads of its quaint flowers.
These are small, but numerous, and are produced
in a dense cluster at the apex of the scape. The
lateral sepals are lengthened so as to give the spike

enables one to obtain flowering examples of this
Lily at any season of the year. It is for re-
tarding purposes one of the best, as the bulbs
are rarely affected by this mode of treatment, and
will start away freely as soon as placed under con-
ditions favourable to growth. Bulbs that have
been retarded are, however, more expensive than
those purchased as they arrive from Japan, say,
during the three winter months. What is more,
if potted and allowed to come on in a natural manner
Ihey bloom at a time when many of the summer-
flowering occupants of the greenhouse and con-
servatory are over or, at all events, on the wane,
and good examples of this Lily therefore furnish a
pleasing variety. Lilimn speciosum was first intro-
duced into Europe from Japan about eighty years
ago, and soon became generally distributed. It
was taken in hand by the Dutch cultivators of
bulbs, and has been largely grown by them ever
since ; indeed, until the Japanese took to sending
bulbs of it to this country, the whole of our stock
of Lilium speciosum was imported from Holland.

Now, immense numbers reach us from Japan, ami,
as a rule, in very fine condition. The state of these
Japanese bulbs shows that they have been grown
under very congenial surroundings, and they can
be depended upon to yield most satisfactory
results the first season after planting or potting.
The variety among them, too, is numerous, some of
the coloured kinds being particularly rich. One of
the brightest of all is Melpomene, whose flowers
are of a bright carmine crimson colour, with a white
margin.

The bulbs of the best coloured forms are, as a
rule, irregular in shape, and have a tendency
to produce many stems. So marked is this feature
that in sorting over large quantities of bulbs 1 have
never had any difficulty in selecting most of those
that would give the richest- coloured flowers. There
are some whose blossoms are of a rose tint, corre-
sponding with the roseum and rubrum of the
Dutch ; but, generally speaking, the bulbs from
Japan represent a deeper-tinted class of flower
than those from Holland. The Japanese variety
Kraslzeri, which, by the way, is often sent here
under the name of album, is widely removed from
the album which has been grown in Europe from
I the first. In the album of old, and still grown by
the Dutch, the bulbs ai'e of a dark chestnut colour,
and the stems, leaf-stalks and unopened buds
I tinged with chocolate. The interior of the flower
is white, with occasionally a very slight pinkish
suffusion. On the other hand, the bulbs of
Kr£etzeri are yellowish, with st<ms and leaf-
stalks green, the unopened buds, too, being of the
same tint. The flowers are large, far more regu-
larly reflexcd than those of album, and with a
greenish star at the base of the interior. The
anthers of both of these varieties are chocolate.
One, which reaches us in a limited number from
Japan, has bright yellow anthers. This, which
bears the name of album novum, is, except for the
disthiguishing anthers.^much in the way of Kraet-
zeri. Fasciated forms, in which the flowers are
borne in a large head or cluster, are not much grown
now, though at one time they were sent here from
Holland in considerable numbers. However, their
absence is no loss.

In order to have flowers of Lilium speciosum i<n
tlie greenhouse or conservatory in August or Sep-
tember, the bulbs should be potted about Februarv,
giving them but little water till the roots are active.
When potted they may be stood in a frame from
which frost is just excluded, or they can be placed
out of doors and have one or two mats thrown over
them in the event of sharp frost. In this way they
will grow sturdy and not come into flower before
their normal period, two, in a general way, very
important matters. In potting, a good-sized bulb
will need a pot from 6 inches to 7 inches in diameter,
while large clumps or masses can be formed by
putting several bulbs in a large pot or tub. In
potting Lilium speciosum it should be borne in
mind that it is one of those Lilies that develop a
great number of roots from the base of the flower-
stem and just above the bulb. For this reason
space must be left when potting for a liberal top-
dressing as soon as these roots are sufficiently
advanced to enable them to obtain nourishment
therefrom. During the growing season, all that
-these Lilies need is to keep them well supplied
with water and to give an occasional stimulant as
the pots get furnished with roots. Unlike L.
longiflorum, aphides or green fly rarely trouble
L. speciosum to any extent. The plants may be
left out of doors till the flowers are on the point
of expanding. H. P,

I

Si'PTEMBEK 27, IQI3.

THE GARDEN.

489

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO LIFT AND STORE POTATOES AND OTHER ROOT CROPS.

A 1 TER bestowing every care on the

/\ growing crops throughout the season,

/ % it would be very unwise on the part

^~~^ of the cultivator to neglect them when

^ ^ matured or in a fit condition for

harvesting. Not only must the roots

he lifted at the proper time, but stored also in the
right way ; then they will keep sound until all
are used in the ordinary wav.

Potatoes. — These luidmibtedly form the chief
crop, being used in summer, autumn and winter —
practically the whole year round. The real work
of storing commences when the main crops art
lifted in September and October. There are several
ways of storing the tubers ; I will explain two,
which will meet the requirements of the majority
of cultivators. It is not always convenient to
store all the tubers in buildings, so clamps are
formed as shown in Fig. A at Nos. i and 2. In
different parts of the country different names are
given, such as Potato bogs, camps and pits. Only
tubers intended for eating purposes should be
stored in dark places. Select a dry position, one
on raised ground, lay down some dry straw, tlien
the tubers on it, building them up, as shown in
the sketch, to a ridge. The base will be alxjut four
feet wide and the height three feet. Put on a layer
of straw, then one of soil, about one foot thick,
finally covering all with straw in thatch fashion.
At distances of 6 feet apart, insert wisps of straw in
the ridge, as shown ; these will ensure ventilation
and prevent sweating and decay. The soil tised
for covering wi'l, if tiiken from the foot of the
clamp, leave a channel, with the tubers above on
a dry base. In buildings ami sheds the tubers
may be stored as shown at No. 3, with a padding
of straw next to the wall and a simple covering of
straw.

Storing Seed Tubers.— These should be exposed
to tile hfihl .iiid .ill, the cluiice ones in single layers

W////Y/////////////////////////m

■/y77/777//777/7/777yy7Pm7

METHODS FOR STORING POT.XTOF.S FOR V.\RIOUS PtIRPOSF.S.

on shelves, as shown at No. .\, and those for main
crops in double layers, as shown at No. 5.
Nos. 6, 6, 6 show the right tubers to select for
seed purposes, Nos. 7, 7, 7, 7 being the best ones
for kitchen use. The smallest tubers are good
for pigs and poultry, and must be stored separately.
With these place all bruised tnliers similar to the
one shown at No. 8.

Other Kinds of Roots. — .A.II roots must be lifted

witliinit undue luuisiiig. h'ig. B, at No. i, shows
a Beet lifted, and at No. 2, trimmed ready for
storing. This is done by sim|)ly twisting ofif the

_^^_iJ

ONIONS, CARROT.S, TURNITS AND BEET SHOULD BE STORED AS DESCRIBED IN TEXT.

tops — the leaves. No. 3 represents a Carrol
trimmed ready for storing, and Nos. 4 and 5 Onions
in a fit condition to " rope " or bunch. No. 6
shows a useless bulb. No. 7 depicts a short stick
which may be used for " roping," and No. 8 the
" rope " complete and ready for suspending from
the roof of a shed. The smaller bulbs are first
tied to the stick, then the larger ones. Strong
strands of straw, twisted, may be used instead o|
sticks on which to tie the bulbs.

Storing in Clamps. — Carrots and Beet may be
stored in open-air (lamps in much the same way as
Potatoes. No. 9 shows the covering of straw on
the layer of soil. No. 10, no inner layer of straw
being necessary. Turnips will remain quite fresh
for a long time if simply buried in the ground, as
shown at No. 11. Pickling Onions, No. 12, will
keep well on shelves in sheds safe from frosts. The
shelf, No. 13, may be constructed of strong laths
or half-inch mesh wire-netting. The Onions,
No. 14, being in layers about six inches deep, will
keep, as air can pass through the wire-netting to
them. G. G.

THE CARE OF CHOICE SHRUBS.

Hollies, Evergreen Oaks, Laurels and several
other kinds of trees and shrubs cast their leaves
during the summer months, and if the leaves are
left among the grass, the latter soon becomes thin
and coarse. Furthermore, the shrubs seem to
suffer through over-dryniess at the roots in the case
of young specimens rooting in a limited area. At
the present time all tall grasses must be cut and
cleared away where they have reached the lower
branches of the shrubs. We carefully feed our
pot plants and many of those growing in borders,
but often neglect to even water the shrubs, much
less feed them. If they were fed and watered
regularly when the soil approached a dry state,
they would grow and form fine specimens in about
leu years. Suamrock.

490

THE GARDEN.

[September 27, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR

SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Border Carnations layered early in August
shiuikl now be in a lit condition for lifting and
p.-ttin;;. Pot firmly and place in a frame with
a good a-ih liottoin.

Planting in Beds. — Where the soil is naturally
light and dry, the voung rooted layers may be
planted in beds. The addition of a proportion
of fresh loam, old mortar rnbble and wood-ashes is
a distinct advantage. Firm planting is necessary,
and a sprinkling of soot or lime should be given to
ward off slugs, not forgetting during the winter
that sparrows pav the plants much attention, so
that cotton should be placed over the plants as a

Jireventivr\

PentStemons. — These are largely used for beds
and borders, and should be propagated on similar
lines to the Calceolaria, as advised in last week's
calendar.

Antirrhinums also may be propagated now ;
but except where an absolutely true stock is
wanted, propagation by cuttings is not necessary,
as manv of the varieties re me well — over go per
cent, true — from seed

The Pleasure Grounds.
Lawns. — The past dry summer will in many
instances have severely tried the grass, and it may
be necessary, where it has been severely burnt, to
break up the ground and resow. Where trees are
not overhanging and it is not necessary to sweep
two or three times a week, the present is a really
good time to sow grass seed. Where only small
patches need renovating, the surface may be well
scratched with a rake or fork, adding a little fresh
soil ; but if large stretches have to be dealt with,
more elaborate methods of working the ground
must be employed. The old turf should be skimmed
off, and a good dressing of manure given to the
ground as it is being forked over. Careful treading
and levelling are quite necessary, as also is a very
fine surface f<ir sowing if the best results are t>.
be obtained

Plants Under Glass.

Chrysanthemums. — No time should now be
lost in getting the whole of the large-flowering
section under cover. Those that were placed
inside as the buds showed colour should be nicely
arranged in a cool house where they can be sh.adetl
Those that are only fairly forward should be placed
all together in another house, and the late ones
also by themselves. In this way they can be
advanced or retarded tTi suit the requirements
of the establishment. Such an arrangement is
even more uecessarv if they are being grown for
exhibition. As the plants are housed they should
lie sprayed with sulphide of potassium as a pre-
ventive' against mildew; also all pots should be
scrubbed. Manv of th" later-flowering decorative
varieties mav be left out for a little time longer,
but some afr.angement should be made so that
tln-v can be covered in the event of frost.

Caladiums that have partially dried do%vn may
be removed from the stove to a warm pit to com-
plete the drying off process, when they should
be stored under 'the stages of the stove, or at least
in a place where the temperature does not fall
below 60° to 65°. There are more losses from
storing in too hiw a temperature than from any-
tliing else.

Sweet Peas. — A sowing should now be madp
for early flowering under glass. Sow two or three
seeds in a 3-inch pot in a fairly holding though
porous soil, placing the pots in a cold frame where
they may be covered in the event of very wet
sveather

The Kitchen Garden.

Late Peas. — Despite the dry summer, late
Peas still look well in some localities, and though
these may not be expected to last much longer,
every encouragement should be given to the plants
to fill those pods that are already set. If the
weather is still dry, give a good soaking of manure-
water and pinch liiit the points of the shoots; this
should help them considerably.

Dwarf Beans. — These are always in demand,
and the crops coming into bearing in the frames

should be treated as liberally as the weather
permits, it being of no use to feed the plants if
the weather is such that they are not growing
fairly freelv. Climbing Dwarf Beans may be
planted now in Melon or Cucumber houses from
which the crops have been cleared, and with careful
attention will give better crops and over a much
longer season than the dwarf varieties. Late-
sown batches out of doors that are still cropping
nicelv should be covered at night in the event of
frosti as we often get one or two slight frosts at
the end of September or early in October, and no
more, perhaps, for two or three weeks.

LeellS. — This is a crop that needs a good deal
of feeding, and the later batches should have one
' ir two good soakings of manure-water or a sprink-
ling of artificial manure when it is raining. Specimen
Leeks for November exhibition should receive their
final earthing, just keeping the cardboai-d collars
above the soil.

Fruits Undsr Glass.

Figs in Pots which have ripened their second
crop of fruit should be relegated to the cooler
houses, or even to a temporary shelter out of
doors, where they may remain till the advent of
severe frost necessitates their removal to a frost-
proof house. Trained trees that are ripening
their fruit must be kept moist enough at the
root to prevent the foliage and fruit ripening
prematurely, which they are apt to do at this
season if allowed to get" too dry. Fire-heat must
be turned on towards the evening, and at all times
when the weather is dull and wet, till all the fruit
is gathered, when the trees should be gradually
inured to plenty of air.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Gathering Fruit. — Tins should be continuen
IS fast as the varieties become fit, but the late
varieties of both Apples and Pears should be left
on the trees as long as they will hang, or shrivelling
will result. l'"riiit put inside a week or two ago
should be carefully looked over, as those fruits
that were only just touched by tits or wasps
will be found decaying, and if left are apt not only
to contaminate those all round them, but those
underneath upon which thev may happen to drip.
Thomas Stkvenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wnbiirn Place Gatdens, A<ldle-toin\ Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Single Rockets. — These sweet-scented plants,
treated as liiennials, are very telling when planted
in masses. They are also very useful in the cut
state for filling large vases in early summer. They
vary a good deal in colour, and this year I saw a
batch of a lovely rich purple shade. The present
is a good time to plant them where they are to
flower.

Planting Bearded Irises. — The present is a
suitable time for planting this interesting arid
easily-cultivated class of Irises. Here we devote
a border to them, with a few dot plants of such
things as Tritomas, and Hyacinthus candicans to
keep up a bit of colour after the Irises have finished
flowering. They are not very particular as to
soil, provided the ground has been previously
deeply dug and has received a moderate dressing
■ if manure. Plant small pieces, as they soon
increase, and do not plant deeply ; the fleshy
rhizomes should not be quite buried. A few plants
of different varieties of I. sibirica at the back
and some of the dwarf Bearded Irises at the front
will redeem the border from monotony.

The Rose Garden.

Bengal Roses. — These are also known as China
a-id Monthly Roses. They are, generally speaking,
weakly growers, especially on cold, heavy soils.
On this account we have discarded many varieties,
and now only grow the following two beautiful
sorts, each with sufficient vigour. They are
Mme. Laurette Messimy and Antoinette Guillerat.
Queen Mab and the did China Blush have both
plenty of vigour, but compared with the other
two varieties indicated they are as silver to gold.

Baby Ramblers, or Polyantha Roses, are

exrelh-nt fur beds. White P't is to., well known-,
to require commendation. Jessie and Orleans
Rose are two good reds, and Mme. N. Levavasseur
is a good third, in the wav cif Crimson Rambler.

The Shrubbery.

Hypericums. — Willi the exception of H. caly-
cinuni (Rose of Sharon) and H. perforatum (St.
John's Wort), the Hypericums do not seem to be
much taken advantage of for furnishing the shrub-
berv. The two indicated are good second-row and
front-row plants respectively, but for th» centre
of a border the three following are excellent;
H. androssemum, H. Ascyron and H. kalmianum.
H. pyramidatum and H. patuhim are also two
good species suitable for the shrubberv.

Preparatory to Transplanting. — Where it is

intended to move established subjects either during
autumn or in the following spring, the operation
will be performed more successfully if the roots
are severed all round with a sharp spade at about
eighteen inches from the stem.

Plants Under Glass.
Housing Chrysanthemums.— Plants grown for

big blooms had better be got under glass without
much further delay. The whole stock should,
however, be sprayed as a preventive against
mildew previous to being housed. Molyneux's
antidote is unexcelled for efficacy. It is as follows :
Place 2lb. of sulphur and 2lb. of unslaked lime
in ten quarts of water and boil for twenty minutes.
When spraving, use two wine-glassfuls of the
mixture to four gallotis of clean cold water. A
solution of sulphide of potassium can be used it
preferred. Give the newly-housed plants abundance
•if air day and night for a time.

Overhauling the Heating Apparatus. — As
frost m.w tircur at any time now. the whole of the
hr'ating apparatus should lie inspected to see that
all is in good order for the criming winter.

Fruits Under Glass.
Tomatoes in Frames. — Tomatoes in frames

or other unheated structures, if not ripe now, will
do little good whore they are. The remainder
'if the crop should be picked and placed in a
dry, heated structure, and those who can do no
better can easily I'ipen them off on a kitchen shelf.

Winter Cucumbers. — Recently-planted stock
for winter supply must have a brisk temperature,
say, 65^' rnMHinum. Less moisture will now be
required, but actual dryness must be guarded
against, both in the soil and the atmosphere. As
the female flowers appear, thev should be artificiallv
liollin.iled.

Decaying Grapes. — Wherever these occur, Ihey
should be promptly removed by means of the
("Irape scissors.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Harvesting. — This w^rk will imw be nearly
completed, but unripe fruit should lie left as long
as the state of the weather will permit.

Storing Plums. — Plums have been r.ither a
poor croi> this season, but wherever it is desired
to retain the Iruit as long as possible, this can be
done with the Coe's Golden Drop type by the
following means : After keeping the fruits in a
thoroughly dry place for a few days, wrap them in
tissue-paper separatelv and keep in a dry place.

The Kitchen Garden.

Framing Cauliflowers. — ^onng plants, the result
of the August sowing, should now be lifted and
planted a few inches apart in a cold frame. Do
not use rich soil. Nothing equals pure fibrous
loam for this purpose. Pricked into this, the plants
will lift with good balls of roots in spring. Close
the frame for a few davs and shade, and then keep
the lights off whenever tlie temperature is .ibove
freezing point.

Storing Marrows. — Marrows will not do much
more good now. ,\nv frnit'^ on the plants, howes'er,
if cut iiiiw and placed in a cool, dry pantry, will
keep for .1 long timf-.

Lifting Potatoes. — The bulk of the Potato
crop will now be ready for lifting. Tubers intended
for seed should be stored in trays in a cool, airy shed.
Tubers intended for cooking should be placed in a
pit, but the top of the pit should not be covered
with earth for a week or two till the surplus
moisture has evaporated. Charles Comfort.
tirnomfield Gardens, Davidson'^ Mains, Midlothian.

September 27, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

491

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— 77,.' tUUtor intends to
vutke Thk Garden helpful to alt readfis n'ho desire assist-
ance, no matter irhat the branch of gardeninti majf be, and
ivi*h that objeit irill male a special feature of the "Ansa-ers
t» Correspondents " roluinns. All communications should be
clearly and conciseli/ arittcn on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Gakdf.k. 20. Tavistock
Street, Covent (Uirden, London, W.C. llie name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designHtiim he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more tfian one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for namin<j should be clearly numbered and securely
parked in damp ffrass or m-jss, tiot cotton-ieool, and flou'erin<j
shoots, where possible, should he sent. It is useless to sejid
sniail scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Pitbt.ishek.

FLOWER GARDEN.

NARCISSUS ATTACKED BY STEM EELWORM

(./. L. H.).- I'hc ,\uici.--f'Us I'ulli is att;uk«-d liy ttiu stem
ci'lworm (Tylonchns dovastatrix), 3'his pojJt is very
troublcsomi? thi-i yi'ar. and is liahln to attack other bulbs
which are jMantod in proximity to (iiyi-:i;;i'd om-s.

LILIES OF THE VALLEY NOT FLOWERING (Chaltmtt
St. Peter). -'l'\iv nasoii .it" vmir lilio- nf tin- Valley nnt
tlowrriivj this y.'ar is in all pr')lial)ility that they wtro
not !:;ufflcirntly fstayiHshcd ior them t(» ptTti'ct their
frowns for this year's blooniin','. If thr soil is cood and
they have been well supplied with water durini' this
abnormally dry season, you may reasonably anticipate
a jiood display of bloom ni-\t season. The eonchfion of
the leafa^ze will, however. j;ive you a ;;ood t^uidi- a? to thi.s,
for if the foliaye is pooranrl scanty, you cannot expect a
^ood crop of blossoms. If the leaves show any signs
of starvation, a ^ood plan will lie to j:ive the bed a top
dressim; of some fairly rich compn^t, say, t'qual part.s of
loam and well-decayed manure passed throiitxh a sieve
with half an inch mesh. This mi.'Ctnre niay be put on to
a depth of half an inch to an inch, accordini; to the present
position ot the erowns.

PINK AND YELLOW PERENNIALS FOR JUNE AND
EARLY JULY (.l/f.;x .1. (M. 'Hie Hower sent for namint:
is A->trantiii majoi . tlie Greater Ma^terwort. Good.
bri'.;ht pink and yellow Howers of the height you desire
are rather scarce dririm: the months of June "and early
July, but the followin<: may be helpful to you: Pink -
Altha'a cannabina. 5 feet to 0 feet ; Astrantia hclle-
borifolia, dull pink. 'J, foct ; Centaurea dealbata. 2 feet ;
<-'. mnntana rosea. "2 feet ; Incarvillea Olute (not very
hardy). :i fei-t to 4 feet ; T^thyrus rotund.ifoUus, climbing,
4 feet to i* feet ; .Spir;ea palnmta \enusta : with some
of the Arendsii hyhrid Astilbes. such as Vesta, Ceres,
with Queen Alexandra and Peach Itlossom, which, it
well grown, will reach over two feet. Some of the pink
herbaceous Pa-onies to be found in nurserymen's cata-
loirues will aiiswr well, and Pyrethrnms will come in
useful early in tin' period. Keally good pinks are scarec.
thouuh there are identy of scarlets and crimsons. The
following yellows are sugi-ested : Achillea Eupatorium.
4 feet to 5 feet : Al--tniMneria aurea, 2 feet to 4 feet;
Aquilci-'ia clirysantha, 2 feet to :? feet; Centaurea macro-
ecphala. 4 feet to -"» feet : Coreopsis L'randillora, 2 feet
to 4 feet : C. lanceolata, 2 feet ; Doronieum plantagineum
excelsum (keepthis back by t.aking off spring flowers), 2 feet
to 4 feet : Hemerocallises. almost any. omitting H. fuha
and varieties and H. aurantiaea m.ijor ; Iris Jlonnieri,
:i feet to 4 feet ; J. aurea. 2 feet to 4 feet ; J.inaria dal-
matica. 3 feet to 4 fi-ct ; (Enotbera ^'oungii. 2 feet to
:J feet ; Potentill:w. yellow hybrid varieties, such as
Gold Kngel, Mo7it d'Or, Pho-bus and Vased'Or; and Thcr-
niopsis montana. 2 feet. Some <iood i)inks will be found
among the early section of Phloxes. Chanu-leon, Isaac
House and The Queen may be named. Wc prefer
Impatiens Sultanii. which is a perennial and is propagated
by cuttings of -trong shoots put singly in small pots
and placed in a pvopagsling-framr-. Dry sand is the
best me^ns of storing the roots of Salvia patens and
Commclina cneiestis for the winter.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

WISTARIA AND SECOND CROP OF FLOWERS (Sir

Francis AHley-Citdiett). —U is not unusual for a Wistaria
to produce a, second crop of flowers during late summer,
although your plant appears to be blossoming more freely
than most plants do at this period. The dry weather
experienced durinu* the last few months may account to
some i-\tent for the quantity of inflorescences.

CLIMBERS FOR POLES {Rahm).—T:hc two Roses
named would be very suitable : also the following sorts —
.\imee Vibeit, Alister Stella Gray, Bouquet d'Or, Celine
Forestier, Climbing Devoniensis, L'Ideal, R€ve d'Or,
Keine Marie Henrictte. Mme. Alfred Carri^re and Marfchal
Niel — should do well in your garden. Other suitable
climbers are Vitis {\mpelopsis) Heuryii, Clematis Viticella
and varieties alba and rubra, C. Jackmannii and varieties
Snow White and superba. l^orsythia suspensa. Jasminunis
nudifiorum, officinale, primulinum and revolutuni ;

Passiflora cirrulea. and Wistaria chinensis and variety
alba. Any of the foregoing which grow too vigorously
can be kept within bounds by using the knife freely.
The Crataegus and Berberis are not suitable. Pyn'is
(Cydonia) japonica would clothe the pole, but is not suitatle
to train along wires.

SHRUBS FOR NAME AND TREATMENT (Bird).—
Tht' spceimeTis ^. iit for determinatiuu are as follow:
1, Ceanothiis (Vre^ ; j. Spiraea japoiiira var. Anthony
Watcrer ; :i. Spiriea japonica var. alba. All mav be
propagated by means of cuttings of half-ripe shoots
inserted in sandy soil in a close, shaded frame during
July and August. Cuttings inserted at the pre.scnt time
may take root, but as a rule they prove more satisfactory
at the earlier date.

BLACK BLIGHT ON TREES (G. M. r,'.).-^The black blight
of which you eoini.lain i- the result of the lcavo<» being
infested with aphides earlier in the year. The insects
deposit a sticky excrement on the leaves, which are after-
wards in a condition to collect and retain dust and other
impurities of the atmosphere. The fact of shrubs covering
the ground beneath atfccted trees accounts largely for
so many varieties bciiig infested. Probably, had some
of the subjects been growing in the open garden, they
would have escaped. Evergreens may be cleaned, to
some extent by lightly syringing the leaves and branches
with strong soft soapy water : then, before they have time
to dry, hosing th^-m with a strong force of clear v.ater.
It is better, howeVor. that such work shouhl be done
earlier in the year, before "the covering has become so
dense.

FRUIT GARDEN.

SPOTS ON ALICANTE GRAPES (/. //.).— Your Grap<^
are sutfering from a disease which in L'arden parlance
is termed " scald." It is caused by too cold a t<'mperature
and too danlp an atmosphere. To cure it, add brisk heat
to the hot-water pipe-;, give air freely all day, and some
at night, loo. wbi-n the weather is fa\ourable, T>o not
have the vinery quite closed up at any time in any weather.
Free ventilatioh, with a fair degi-ce'of h^at in the pipes,
should stop the *iprcad of the discAs'; and help to ripen
your Grapes in due time.

FIGS NOT RIPENING iE. .V.I.— Vou do not say ^yhetlier
your I'vj. tree is urowiu'i against a wall or not Fig^i in
the open ground round I'aling will not ripen satisfactorily
except in very |iot summers. It your tree is growing
against a south wall, there is no reason whv the fruit
should nnt ripen if the tree is properly looked after.
Your fruit, which yo!i say is at present dry. may yet ripen
in the course of next pionth. Outdoor Figs are not yet
ripe. Expose the fruit to more li-jht and air by tying
the brancln-s and fiiliaue on one side.

VINE LEAVES FALLING PREMATURELY (.lH.no».«;).—
The case you state is an uncommon ont-. but we have
occasionally experienced the same thing. It i< due,
M'o think, to conditions of weather and growth rather
than to any disease, and we think you will find that the
Vines next year will suffer practically no ill-elfcct from
the occurrence, especially if you will try to encourage
a free lateral growtn from what there is left of the summer
growth, in order to properly develop and plump up the
fruit-buds. The summer, on the whnle, has been wantin-^
in sunshine, and the growth, especially of young Vines,
has been robust, soft and sappy, with often a lot of
moisture hanging about them. This, we think, must
have been so in your case, and occasional intensely hot
alcams of sun stiikin.t: on the folin-'c at the lime when the
Vines were in this condition was too m'jch for them.

PEACH STONES DECAYING (In Afnivcr to yamero,u
Enqaii-ers).— Thr real cause of ston'' splitting and conse-
quent decay of the stone is a subject on which, as far as
we know, no specific or definite information is available.
The disease seems to have a partiality for some varieties
over others, notably late varieties of large size, such as
Lord Palmerston, Princess of Wales, Sea Eagle and some-
times Noblesse. The disease also, aecordiuL' to our
experience, appears to attack the fruit more frequently
in unheated Peach-honses than in heated ones or
out of doors. We believe the cause to be due to some
imperfection or fault in fertilisation, which ultimately
develops into this disease. We arc fortified in this opinion
by the faet that we practically got rid of it on one occasion
by addiu'^ hot-water pipes to the house, thereby creating
a warmer, drier and more favourable atmosphere for
settin-j the fruit w^hile the trees were in bloom. Wo
believe, al-o. that the trouble may, partially at any rate,
be got over by taking special care to have abundanct^ of
air admitted to the house night and day while the trees
are in bloom in favourable weather, and to protect from
hard frost (glass alone is not always enough for this),
aided by artificial fertilisation. Some growers think
that tlie trouble is due to insect pests, such as ants or
earwigs. These insects are i^enerally attracted to these
fruits when affected by this disease, penetrating into
them through an orifice in the flesh at the base of the
stalk, which usually accompanies this disease. We do
ngt think the insects have anything to do with the cause
of it.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

MARROWS UNSATISFACTORY (O. I. C.).— Imperfect
fertilisation of tlie Islooms is the cause of the young Marrows
rottinu at the point as you describe. Watch for the female
blossoms as they appear, and expose to more light and
air (until the Marrow is set) by pushing on one side a few
of the grosser leaves until this process is over. Marrows
do not like too much wet about their foliage or roots.

At the same time, they must always be kept moderately
damp at the roots. There are many complaints of
.Marrows doing badly this year.

MISCELLANEOUS.

A NEW AZALEA DISEASE (C hath i 1 1). —The Azalea
is attacked by the fungus called Fxob-isidium japonicum,
which proiluees trails on haves and buils of Azalea indica.
It is of recent introduction into this country, and spreads
by means of spores, which form the whitish powder on
the surface of the t-alls. They should be picked off and
burned a^ soon as they are noticed.

HOW TO MAKE LIQUID MANURE (If/noramus).~
Various quantities of mamire may be immersed in water.
One peck of cow or two pecks of horse nianure may be
;.laced in a ba-j; and the whole immersed in twenty gallons
nf clerr water in a tub or other vessel. It, should be left
(o s^vik tiiere for three days, being moved to and fro
a little twice every day. Use one pint of the liquid to a
■gallon nf cle?r water, and a similar quantity e.f the cow-
hoii-e liquid to a gallon of clear water. Both soot-wotor
and liquid manure should be applied aftei- rain or a watering
of clear water from the wafi'nh^-ean.

MAGNOLIA AND PELARGONIUMS (Sieanflr Lnnflmflrt).—
Y(eir M;ignnl;a is itppanntly th-' evergieen species, M.
grandifloi-a. and you' nii^y carry out the Tiecessary amount
of pruning at once. Cut th-- braneli -tif ciintidly so that
the bark on the adjoluiuL^ part uf the tre.- is iiot injured ;
then pare the nhz'-^ id" th«' wounil.with a.shtirp knife,
and covi-r the' woiunli d -mrface \vith coal-tar without
delav. '■ Your t^elaigdtiiums. which arc" infei^ted with
nif^jily tx'ig. may be <Kaned with a wash made of ^oft
s'oap and parUffin at the rate of lialf a pound of soft soap
and half a pint of parafliu to three gallons of wat*r.
keeping ttie mixture well stirred while it» use ; or with any
of the insielieides supplied by nurserymen. Keep the
plants i--oIatrd for a couple of months, and clean them
at It'-isJ once a fortnight (hiring that time. The mealy
bug Vmglib to halve disappep.red" entirely before the end
of the two months.

.'SLUGS IN A MORAINE (//. E. T.).— It is most unusual
for. plants in a moraine to be devoured by slugs, and we
kiunv se\eral u'ardens in which there are a good number
of slugs about the ruckeries, but none trouble the plants
in the moraine. It is possible that they may have come
with the material for the moraine, and as hand-picking,
which is the mbst effectual way of destroyitii: th-in in
I most cases, cannot well be adopti'd. we suggest oci^asional
i dustinj^s with freshly->lakec1 lime in the evenings ;ifter
dark when" they are about. This should be repeated
several times, with but a sliort time betwePn the appli-
cations." A solution of ammonia is also suggested by
some to destroy slugs, but it f:hould not he strong. Yoii
might tty bA'tt in the form of bran, or Lettuces or f:abbage
leaves, examining these after dark and destroying the
sluus found on them.

NOTES ON THE ORDER VERBENACE£ (.1. L.,
Orleans).— Thv Order \'erbenaceie derives its name from
one of the principal genera (Verbena) included therein.
The chief members of it arc of wide geographical distri-
bution over the surface of the globe, and vary from humble
herbaceous plants to tall fprest trees. To give the
history, species and culture thereof would occupy far
more space than we have available, but at the same time
we will endeavour to comply with your request as far
as possible. The garden varieties of Verbena, that is to
say, those that are chiefly employed for summer bedding,
have originated from some South American kinds which
were introduced during the first half of the nineteenth
century. These are very readily increased by seeds or
cuttings. Lippia citriodora is the well-known Lemon-
scented Verbena, and is also known as Aloysia citriodora.
The principal species of Yitex is V. .\gnus-castus, a native
of Southern Europe and known popularly as the Chaste
Tree. This is derived from the fact that it was largely
used by the Roman maidens for the embellishment of
their apartments, it being regarded as a sign of their
chastity. It thrives best in this country trained to a
wall, where it forms a loose-growing shrub, "which, towards
the- end of the summer, bears spikes of very pale mauve,
almos* white, blossoms. Prominent among other genera
that arc includeil in the Order Verbenaccie are : Clero-
dendron. an extensive class of warm-house plants, some
of them being shrubby, while others are of a climbing
character — the flowers of most of them are showy ;
Callicarpa, the best-known species of which is C. purpurea,
a grecniiouse plant which bears a great pr&fusion of small
purple licrries in autumn; Petr'^a. one member of which
(P. vohibilis) requires the temperature of a stove and
has long, drooping racemes of lilac-coloured blossoms ;
Lantanas. pretty free-flowering greenhouse plants, very
popular now for bedding purposes ; and Caryopteris Masta-
canthus. a liardv slirnb that thrives best in a warm soil.
Its spikes of |jretty blue flowers are freely borne in early
autumn. From an economic standpoint the most valuable
of all verbenaceous plants is the 'I'cak (Tectona grandJs).
a deciduous tree attaining a height of 120 feet to l.^O feet,
with a girth of 20 feet to 25 feet. It is a native of India.
Burmaii and the Malay Archipelago. The timber is
extensively employed for ship-building, and is also put
to a variety of other uses.

NAMES OF PLANTS. — .^. W., Forsj/M.— Saponaria

officinalis flore pleno. T. Bay. — The variety is not Tea

Rambler but Tausendschon.

NAMES OF FRUIT.— fi. ./. /J.— 1. Maigil ; 2, King of

the Pippins ; 3, Yellow Ingestre ; 4, Tower of Glamis.

E. B., Old Southgate. — 2, Reinette du Canada: 5. Haw-
tlioinden; 8, Altriston ; 13, Ribston Pippin. All the other
labels were detached. Each fruit snould be wrapped
separately in paper with number enclosed.

492

THE GARDEN.

[September 27, 1913.

M0S3 ON PATHS (.1. H. /?.).— The moss on your walks
is cvidi-iitlv caustd bv want of dra.m»i.'i'. If you could
put a drain b'low, you would iirobably Ki't rid of It ; but.
as you may not wish to do this, you can try a top-dn'ssim;
of lirai'. or of soot and salt, or lime and sidphur. Some
also trv a solution of ammouia sulphate in the proportion
of half a pound to a '.lallon of water. Th' only other
thin; we can suggest is to keej) the surface constantly
loose: but this is not pleasant for a walk. Drainage is
reallv the best cure.

PRUNUS AND COLD-FISH {Captain K. F. O.).—
Prunus serndata Pore plcno is stocked by Messrs. Veitcii,
Kind's Road, Chelsea, and is priced at from Is. 6d. to
2s. ad. a plant. Thev. however, call it Ccrasus serrulata.
It is not likely that' fold-flsh would survive the winter
in an outdoor tank of the dimensions you describe. They
couli, however, he placed in it for the summer. A Water
Lilv placed in the tank would bo an advantage. Charcoal
assists in kei'pinu water sweet, but its presence does not
do awav with the necessity of a frequent chanQO of water.

PARAFFIN TO KILL INSECTS ON MANURE iN. E. L.).
—Tile amount of harm dnni' by the parattln poured on
tlie man, ire to the plants snbsequentlv to b ■ ^'rown would
not be likely to be very great if some time elapsed between
the treatment and the use of the manure ; but it would
be likely to interfere with the proper decay of the manure
in the neap. Why not cover the heap with a layer of
garden soil ? Sulphate of ammonia for the treatment
of a lawn should be used at the rate of IJcwt. to the acre.
l''or a lawn 100 feet by 30 feet, 181b. to 201b. would be
suttieieiit ; more should not be used.

LEAF-MOULD FOR HEAVY SOIL (.17'ir). -In our
opinion you may safely use the leaf-mould for lightening
vour very heavy soil," but at the same time we should
reject any of the Pine leaves that you possibly can. This
docs not' mean that you are to take extraordinary pre-
cautions to sort them' out, but rather to give preference
to the leaf-mould Irom spots where the Pine leaves arc
least numerous. As clayey soil is greatly benefited
by breaking up and turning, we should advise that the
le'af-mould be applied this autumn and well dug in ;
then in the spring, before planting, it should be again
turned over and well broken up. The name of the Orange
Lily is IJlium croceum, a very fine border Lily, at its best,
as a rule, during the latter part of June and the first half
of .luly.

LETTUCE FOR WINTER IN FRAMES (J. R.).— The
best varieties to grow for this purpose are the Stanstead
Park Cabbage Lettuce and the Black-seeded Bath Cos.
The seeds should be sown at once (it would have been
better had they been sown a fortnight ago) in a cold frame
in fine, light, triable soil, keeping the lights off the frame
as long as the weather is tine. As soon as the young plants
are 2 inches high, transplant into other frames (previously
prepared as to soil like the other) 8 inches apart each way.
Let the plants be exposed to the weather day and night
while it is favourable, as the hardier the plants are grown
the better they will stand the winter. The seedling
plants in the frame should be thinned out to 8 inches
apart. Should there be any plants left over after planting
the frames, let these be planted in the open quarters of
the garden at the same distance apart as in the frames.
These will survive the winter, unless it should prove to
be very severe, and turn in early and useful in spring.
During" severe weather in winter those which arc in frames
must be protected with mats or some other covering
material at night ; but they must have fresh air every
day if possible^ or they will damp and rot away.

SOC I ET I ES.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

In addition to tin- ii^iitil furtni^litly rxliibition, there
were compi'titivo classes for vc-jftables and DahliHB
at Vincent Square, Westminster, on Tuesday last. The
hall was filled throughout, the vegetabU' classes beinji
well contested, while massive banks of Dahlias and
Michaelmas Daisies created hrisht autumnal colour
scenes. It, wa- pleasing to see Mr. John Heal back again
after his long illness.

Floral Committee.

Present : H. B. May. Esq. (chairman), and Messrs. G.
Rcuthc, \V. l». Thomson, J. W. Moorman, C. T. Druery,
\V. J. James, C. E. Pearson, fl. Gordon, J. Green, E. A.
Bowles, H. J. Jones. A. Turner, T. Stevenson, J. 'J'.
Bennett-Poe, K. Hooper Pearson, W. Howe, W. tuth-
bertson, l-'. Pa^'C-Koberts. W. G. Baker. J. W. Barr,
B. Crisp. J. Jcniungs. U, C. Xotcntt and C. l>ixon.

Mr. l.-;rnest Ballard. The Court. C^olwall. Herefordshire,
staged a flue lot of secdlin't Asters, all raised at Col wall.
Nnnv^rous double-fiowenn'^ varieties were shown, of
whicM Cloudy Blue. Nancy Ballard, Glory of Colwall
and Beauty of Colwall were all grand. Some of the fiaest
seedlm-js were unnamed.

Another j:rand exhibit of Asters came from the Wariirave
Plant Farm. Limited. The Arcade, Liverpool Street.
E.C. This exhibit contained such fine varieties as Amelhis,
Stella, aTJs, Beauty r.f rolwatl and Saturn, while the
small-tlowercd erieoides. Clio, cordifnlins. Ideal and Vir^iin
Queen were shown in tne height of perfection.

Mc'^srs. Stuart Low and Co.. Bush Hill Park, Middlesex,
showed their new Salmon Kin^i Carnation, ot ^ood form
and deli.rhtfnlly fra-rant. tojether wim Enc-nantress.
Supreme. Empire Day and other well-known varieties.

The Uev. J. H. Pemberton, Haver, u^. Essck, showed
his n^nv s(M;dlmn Roses. Duna ' and MDonli!:n^ boMi fif
which have often been referred to in our pa,.;e-.

From Herbert Chapman, liimitoil. Bye, came a lovely
seedling Nerine named Botherside, with fine orange red
flowers^

Me.ssr.^. William Cutbush and Son. Hiffhgate. N"., put
up a first-rate collection of Pent^temons, of which Mauve
Queen, Mrs. Baird and Pink Pi'arl were the pick.

From Mr. James Box, Lindfleld. came the beautiful
Lilium sulphureum and L. nepalense, also CimieifU'-^a
snnple.v and Crinum PovvcIUi, making a very interesting
thouiih small exhibit.

Ptiloxes were sliown in creat profusion by Messrs.
W. Wells and Co., Limited, Merstham, Surrey. The most
conspicuou-i varieties were Elizabeth t'ampbcll, Eclaireur,
Le Mahdi and Aurora.

Messrs. Allwood Brothers, Hayward's Heath, showed
Carnations in bright and perfect condition. T'he varictj
Mary Allwood was especially good, while the novelties
Yellowstcme, Fairmount, Enchantress, Supreme and
Rosette arc certain indications of tne immense improve-
ment among these flowers in recent times.
Dahlia-.
In Cle,ss A, for amateurs, a group of decorative garden
Dahliasof all or any sections, 12 feet by 3 feet, was required,
and there were three entrants. The first prize of the
Koyal Horticultural Society's silver cup and the Veiteh
Memorial Medal was won by the Bev. Arthur Bridge,
Worth Rectory, Three Bridges, Sussex, who put up a
grand display. A few of his best blooms were Uwen
Thoma^:, Leslie Scale and Rosebank Scarlet, all Collarettes ;
while a fine reddish Caetns variety was named Mary Furrier.
A second prize was awarded to Sir Randolf Baker, Bart..
Blandford. for a meritorious exhibit ; and the J>uchess
of Albany was the other exhibitor.

In Class B, a group of decorative garden Dahlias of all
or any sections, 25 feet by 3 feet, was required. th« prize
being the 75-guinea challenge cup presented to the Royal
Horticulturar Society by Reginald Cory, Esq. Here
competition was very keen, there being eleven entrants. The
first prize was, however, awarded to Messrs. Carter Page
and Co.. London Wall, E.C. for a superb display, in which
all sections were well represented. The following were
noteworthy : Collarettes — Negro and Union Jack ;
Cactus — Mrs. 1). Fleming, .Australian and Amos Perry ;
Decorative — D61ice, a beautiful rosy pink, and Mnu'.
Lami^re ; P»ony-ftowered — Bayard; and Pompon^Red
Indian and Chieftain. Following very closely were
.Messrs. J. Cheal. Crawley, who presented a splendid
lot, one named Victoria being exceptionally good. Other
entrants were Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh ; Mr. J.
Emberson. Walthamstow : Messrs. Treseder. Cardiff ;
Messrs. Warnaar and Co., Sassenheim, Holland : Messrs.
Keynes. Williams and Co., Salisbury ; Mr. J. T. West,
Brentwood ; Messrs. T. S. Ware, Feltham ; Mr. C.
Turner. Slough; and M. V. Seale, Scvenoaks.

Non-competitive groups were few, and the best exhibit
came from Messrs. Dobbie. Edinburgh, whose stand
contained Collarettes only. They were in the pink of
condition, and Goltlstern. Queen Anne, Balmoral, Negro,
Great Orme and Diadem were especially good.

Mr. J. B. Ridiu'i. Chingfnrd. put up a nice lot of blooms.

M. Capron. Mont Rose. Negro and Weber being conspicuous.

Messrs. J. Burrell and Co., Cambridge, had eignt vase-

of Cactus varieries, the one named Moreno standing out

conspicuously.

Orchid Committee.
Present : J. G. Fowler. Esq. (chairman), Sir Harry J.
Veiteh, Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart.. Messrs. James O'Brien,
J. W. Potter, R. G. Thwaites, F. J. Hanbury, A. Me Bean,
T. Armstrong. C. H. Curtis. W. Cobb. J. Charle.sworth,
\\ H Hatcher. .1. Cypher. W. P. Bound, J. E. Shill. H. G.
Alexander. A. Dye, W. H. White. W. Flory. R. A. Rolfe,
W. Bolton, Guriiey Wilson and C. J. Tineas.

In the pretty group set up by Messrs. Cypher of Chelten-
ham we saw several fine Cypripedinms for which the firm
is famous. They included Gaston Bnltel, Bcdvcrs Buller.
Niobc. Corona, and tritimphans. Cattleya Iris was good,
and a conspicuous plant was Oncidium incurvum album.

Messrs. Armstrong and Brown. Tunbridge Wells, were
rei)resented by Cattleyas and Odontiodas, the former
embracing several fine varieties of Iris, and a few good
Lselio-Cattleyas. of which their George Woodhams was
specially noteworthy.

Messrs Sand t and Sons, St. AUians, displayed a varied
exhibit which was rich in Cattleyas and Lfelio-Cattlcyas,
also the choice Crelogyne luooreana, Vanda caerulea and
Phaloenopsis Esmeralda.

From Messrs. Charlesworth came a few well-grown
examples, such as LEPlio-Cattleya eallistoglossa. with seven
nice riowers; Oncidium incurvum, with an aggregate of
eight (graceful scapes; Odontoglossum xanthotes and other
good things.

Messrs. Hassall and Co., Southgate, had a nice lot of
Cattleyas, their varieties of Adula and Iris being very
effective.

H. S. Goodson, Esq.. Putney, sent a large exhibit, very
tastefully arranged. It consisted of good Lieiio-Cattloyas.
such as "Myra. also Cattleya pittiana and C. Iris, wnile
Odontoglossum grande was displayed along the front.
Fruit and Vegetable Committee.
Present : A. H. Pearson, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs.
J. Cheal. W. Bates, J. Basham, J. Willard. Edwin Beckett.
\V. Humphreys, A. Grubb, A. R. Allan, William J.
Jeffries, J. Davis, W. Pope, F. G. Treseder, A. Barlock,
G. Reynolds, P. A. Tucker, P. C. M. Veiteh, J. Harrison
and vC'. Ponpart.

In addition to the well-flllcd competitive classes, there
were a great many exhibits of more than usual interest
not for eompea.ifjn. Seldom, ii ever, have we seen a
finer lo^ of vegetahies than tne comprehensive enllection
staged by Mes'-rs. Sutton and Sons. KeadiuL-. To this
ma'mificejit display th^ society's gold medal was de.ser\ eiUy

awarded. Almost every conceivable kind of vegetable
was represented. Roots such as Onions, Carrots and
Parsnips stood out conspicuously, while Cucumbers and
Tomatoes in great variety were shown in the same heiiifc''.
of perfection, and the foliage of Kale and Beet added
mattrially to the general effect of the collection, whicii
was staged with a masterly hand.

The Right Hon. Colonel Mark Loekwood. M.P., RomEonl,
sent a most interesting exhibit of Egg Plants, or Auber-
gines. The.se were shown in pots, the plants bcmg heavily
laden with white, purple and yellow fruits. A cultural
commendation was grantt^d to the collection, together
with the society's silver Kiiightian medal.

IMessrs. Dickson and UoiHuson were awarded a silver
Knightian medal for a meritorious exhibit of their well-
known Premier Onion. The bulbs were of fine size, even.
uniform and quite firm.

A silver Banksian medal was awarded to the Marquis
of Ripon for a good collection of Appl-'s.

A bronze Knightian medal was awarded to Mr. J. H.
Potter. Maiden, Surrey, for six dishes of Apples.

A creditable collection of vegetables from the Church
Army received the society's silver Banksian medal.

In Class 1, for twelve distinct kinds, the Hon. Vicarv
Gibbs was first with splendidly-grown e.xamples. the
Potatoes Superlative and Peas Centenary being excellent.
Mr. T. Jones, Ruabon, came second ; Mr. F. J. Barrett
third ; and Mr. H. Keep, Readin-j. fourth.

In Class 2 the judges did not sonsider that the conditions
set forth in the schedule, i.e., that the vegetables should
be in daily use, and possess the qualities u^ost valued for
table use by cooks, were complied with, so no award was
made. It is difficult to understand the attitude of the
judges, a.s, with the exception of the Carrots in each class,
the produce was quite suitable for cooking. The tiishes of
Gladstone Peas were speiidid, and although the Beans and
Onions were large, they were of excellent quality.

In Class 3, Brodie Henderson, Esq., Little Berkhamstcd,
led the way with clean and well-grown examples. F.
Bibby, Esq., Shrewsbury, was second ; the Right Hon. T. F.
Halsey third ; and Mrs. Trevor Golf, Basingstoke, fourth.

In Class 4, the Rev. T. .McMurdie, Wey bridge, secured
first place ; Mrs. Denison, Berkham^ted, second.

In Class 5, Mr. G. Thorn, .Xslifonl. Kent, was first ; and
Mr. H. W. Henderson, Kind's L;tM.:ley, came second.

In Class 6, Mrs. Jenner, Carditt, was awarded first
prize, exhibiting Excelsior Onion, ttc. in good condition ;
the Hon. .Vicary Gibbs was second ; and W. H. Myer?,
Esq., Bishop's Waltham, third.

Classes 7 and >'•, for salads, attracted attention from
visitors, and in the former the Hon. Vieary Gibbs led the
way, followed by Mr. Jone^, Ruabon; and in the latter
W. H. Myers, Esq., came first ; Brodie Henderson, E.-q.,
Litile Berkhamsteti, was second; and Lord North third.
The Endive and Lettuce were very good.

Class 0 was most interesting, and the Hon. Vicary Gibbs
gained premier position with dishes of Sahify Giant,
Capsicum (iolden Dawn. Scorzonera. Kohl Itabi, the
Egg Plant and Turnip-rooted Celeria . Lord North was
second, and W. H. Myers. Esq., Bishop's W.'llham, third.

There was a good display of Runner Beans (single dishes)
Beetroot, Brussils Spmiits, Cabbage, Savoys, a few
Cauliflower and lirnecnli and Celcriac.

C»dery was well rt'presented, the Hon. Vicary Gibbs
gainmg first prize for white. ,\lrs. Lewis Davis comm:
second, and Mr. Barrett third in the >arae clas.s. Fur
■■ed the Hon. Vicary (Jibbs was again to the front, ftlr.
H. Keep second, and W. H. Myers, Esq., thiril.

Several brace of Cucumbers, Marrows, Leeks, Parsnips,
Carrots, Turnips and Potatoes completed a most interesting
competitive exnibition.

Orchid Committee's Awards.

Silver Flora Medals. — .Messrs. Charlesworth and Co..
Hayward's Heath, for a group of Orchids ; Messrs. Arm-
strong and Brown, Sandhurst Park, Tunbridge Wells,
for a group of Orchids; Mr. Goodson, Fairlawn. Putney,
S.W., for a group of Orchids; and Messrs. Sander and
Sons. St. Albans, for a group of Orchids.

Silrer Banksian Mcl'ils. — Messrs. Hassall and C'o..
Southgate. for a group of Orchids ; Messrs. James Cypher
and Son. t^u:'en's Road. Cheltenham, for a group or
Orchid--^ : and Mr. R. O. Thw.;ites, Streatham, S.W., for
a group of Orchids.

Floral Committee's .Awards.

Silver Flora J/ erfa/. ^Messrs. Dobbie, Edinburgh, for
Dahlias.

Silrer Banksian Medals. — Mr. Ballard for Asters ;
and Messrs. Wells for Phloxes and Chrysanthemums.

Bronze Flora Mednh. — Alcssrs. Stuart Low and Co.
for Carnations ; Mr. J. B. Riding for Dahlias ; ftlessrs.
Treseder lor two Dahlia bouquets ; The ^Vargraye P. ant
Farm tor Asters : and Mr. J. Box for Liliums.

The awartls to Dahlias were made by a joint committee
of the National Dahlia Society and tlie Boyai Hoiiiciiliurtil
Society's floral committee,

WATFORD HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

The fifty-seventh mmithly ineethig nf the above .society
was held on the 12th inst. at the Churcli Koad Schools.
Mr. J. Stirton presiding. A paper on " Gathering and
Storing of Fruit ' was to have ueen given by .Mr. G. Dyke,
who wrote regretting his inability to attend. Mr. 1'.
Newman, as ne has done on previous occasions, kindly
acted as deputy and gave the meeting some very useful
and valuable hints on the subject, answering a uu.uui-r
of questions at the completion of his paper. Mr. \\ .
Henley read a very interesting paper he nad prepared
on the subject of "' Stove and Greenhouse Planis," and
this was also followed by a discu.^sion. N'otes of ihaiiKs
having been accorded lothe lecturers and the chairman, the
meeting concluded. A flue spe:'iniea of Ldiu.-n sulpnurcu;n
was shown bv Mr. W. U. Kettle.

GARDEN.

^^-

No. 2185.— Vol. LXXVII.

October 4, 1913.

CONTENTS.

KOTtS OK THE W'V.EK
COllREPPONDRSCK

Saxifraga burscriana ;

l>oes it nct'd sun

or shade ? . .
Artificial manures

and Vfgotablfs . .
Foitlicoiiiing events..
Flowfk Oakden
Annuals (or tilling

llowcr-borders . .
Best Sweet Peas in

a Scottish garden
The Campanulas or

BellHowcrs . .
Greenhocse

ilai si ng Fuchsias

from seed . .
Winter- f 1 ow e rin g

plants for the warm

IXveenhnUse . .

Orr. Third Peizk Rock
Garden
lirvnham, Oatlands
Chase. Weybridi?e 498

TREES AND SHKCUS

Late-flowering shrubs
for shaded places 499
rose Garden

494 Simultaneous sports

among Roses . . 500

495 New and Rare

495 PLANTS 500

Gardening for Beginners
The cultivation of

495 i the U ropmore
Alkanet . . . . 501

49fi Prunina Gooseberries

and ked Currants 501

496 Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-

den^: 502

JQ7 For Nort hern gar-
dens 502

Answers to Corre-

497 spondents
Flower garden . . 503
Greenhouse . . . . 503
Ali see lla neons . . 504

Societies 504

ILLUSTRATIONS.

A beautiful autinnn-Howering >hrub 494

The new Perpetual-flowering Carnation Fairmount . . 49fi

The new Primula vincaeflora 497

The rock garden at Drynham. Weybridge 49S

General view of the rock garden 498

Continuation of the rock garden 499

A beautiful water-side grouping of the Alkanet . . oOO

The cultivation of the Dropmore Alkanet . . . . -"iOI

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor ivelconies photographs, articlts and notes,
but he mil not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, vnll be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he vnll endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As le'jards phMogiaphs. if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproductian be }>lainlf/ dated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated leith.

The Editor will not be responsible for the leturn of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden trill alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistock Street. Covent Garden, W.C

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

An Effective Combination. — Anyone growing
tho beautiful Belladonna Lily can obtain a very
charming effect by planting Commelina coelestis
with it, the beautiful sky blue flowers of the
latter blending with the flowers of the Lily. These
vary from white to a reddish or purplish hue, and
the combination is very pleasing at this time of
the year. Both are easily grown, providing they
are planted at the base of a warm, south wall.

A Charming Perennial SunHower.— A very

beautiful plant is Helianthus sparsifolia, said to
be a hybrid raised by crossing H. rigidus with
H. califomicus, a double variety. Certainly it is
a grand acquisition, with large, deep yellow flowers
from 5 inches to 6 inches across, which are carried
upon long stems, thereby rendering it a fine subject
for cutting and decorative purposes. It is a late-
flowering kind, and produces a good display during
September and October. It attains a height of
6 feet.

An Attractive Bed for the Autimin.— The
Italian Starwort (Aster Amellus) is a very valuable
plant for decorative purposes at this season of
the year, either as cut flowers or in the garden,
and a bed of it or any of its beautiful varieties,
such as bessarabicus, Riverslea and latifolia,
intermixed with the beautiful Japanese Anemone
Whirlwind or any of the other varieties gives a
charming effect with very little trouble. Spanish
Irises planted between the perennials would give
a good display early next summer.

Our Special Rose Number. — .\s announced

in our last issue, we shall publish next week a
special enlarged number that will be of more than
usual interest to lovers of Roses. Among the
contributors will be such well-known experts as
Miss Jekyll, Dr. O'Donel Browne, H. R. Darlington,
W. Easlea, E. Mawley, E. Molyneux, H. E. Moly-
neux and George Laing Paul. The half-tone illus-
trations will be of a unique character, and in addition
there will be a coloured plate of two new Roses
that have created quite a sensation this year.
The price will, as usual, be one penny.

Beautiful Late-Flowering Clematises.—

.\lthough the majority ui the Clematises are over,
there are still one or two flowering that are of
great decorative value. Clematis jouiniana, a
beautiful hybrid between C. Vitalba and C. davidi-
ana, is undoubtedly one of the best of them. The
flowers, which are white, slightly tinged on the
outside with lilac, are borne the full extent of the
strong, vigorous shoots of this year, being very
showy with the deep green leaves. This plant is
often listed in this country under the name of
C. grata. Then we have the free-flowering C.
Flammula, the fragrant Virgin's Bower. This
old but beautiful species is also of great value
at this time of the year, with its sprays of fragrant,
pure white, but rather small flowers, which are
borne in great profusion. It is an elegant plant

for covering arbours, walls, or large tree stumps.
Another sweet-scented species is C. paniculata,
from Japan. It is very like C. Flammula, but the
flowers are a little larger, and the leaves much
coarser and more heart-shaped. All should be
in a garden where autumn flowers are valued.

An Effective Bed for Next Year. — A very
attractive bed for next summer can be obtained
by mixing the graceful Iceland Poppy (Papaver
nudicaule) with the beautiful Spanish Iris (I.
.Xiphium). These can be purchased for a very
small outlay, and should be planted now. The
seedling Poppies which were sown a little time
ago can be pricked out into the bed after the
bulbs are in. If English Irises (I. xiphioides) are
also mixed in the bed with the Spanish Irises, a
longer display of blooms is obtained.

Are New Pentstemons Too Large ?— In the

course of a recent lecture given by Mr. Bernard
Crisp on autumn border plants before the Royal
Horticultural Society, the lecturer expressed the
opinion that the large-flowered Pentstemon of to-day
is less beautiful than the older type. We agree
with Mr. Crisp that some of the alleged improve-
ments of the Pentstemon are far too coarse and
unwieldy. They are lacking in the delicate grace
and outline we thought so beautiful in years
gone by.

The Charm of Michaelmas Daisies. — On looking
over the hardy plants in our garden last Sunday,
after the absence of a week or so, we were rather
abruptly reminded that winter is rapidly approach-
ing, the Michaelmas Daisies, which are certain
heralds, proclaiming the fact with a riotous pro-
fusion pf flowers such as we do not remember
seeing before. Even though they warn us of
leaden skies and sodden soil, we must admit their
charm. Early flowers of that giant lilac named
Climax are vieing with the tiny white flowers of
Perfection, while, near by. Grey Dawn, with tiny
mist-coloured flowers, keeps company with the
rose-coloured but larger St. Egwin. Truly they are
a goodly host that the cultivator of hardy plants
should make more use of.

A Plague of Caterpillars. — In many parts of
the country there has been quite a plague of cater-
pillars on Cabbages and other members of the
Brassica family this aUtumn, and many plants
that were the pride of their owners a few weeks
ago have been reduced to ribs as bare and gaimt
as those of a weather-beaten hulk. The cater-
pillars are mostly those of the white Cabbage
butterfly, which lays its eggs usually on the tmdet
surface of the leaves. When these hatch, the
young caterpillars develop a particularly voracious
appetite and gorge until full grown, after which
they make for the eaves of buildings or the under
surface of railings, where they change into chrysa-
lids, in which state they remain for the winter.
Hand-picking and dropping the caterpillars into
strong insecticide or neat petroleum is the only
real remedv.

494

THE GARDEN.

[October 4, 19131

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Pear Tree with Four Crops in One Season. —

During the week ending September 20 I saw in
a cottage garden at Bawtry, Yorks, a Pear tree
which, so I was informed, has exhibited a character-
istic probably unknown in the annals of British
fruit-growing. For the last four years, the time the
occupant had been in the cottage, I was assured
the tree had borne three crops and attempted the
fourth each season. On the day of my visit the
tree had a moderate sprinkling of its third crop
this season, while on about half-a-dozen or more
growths were trusses just at their setting stage, the
actual petals having been knocked
ofi two days before by the heavy
thunderstorm experienced over that
district, which storm also brought
down the first and second crops. 1
saw all the fruits, and there is a
distinct difierence in the stage of
maturity between each lot of fruit.
Those on the tree were about the
size of a small Walnut, the second
crop the size of a hen's egg, and the
first lot about half as large again, or
a little larger, and these were ap-
proaching a yellowish tinge of ripe-
ness. The tree was a standard and
perhaps some 20 feet high. Of
course, neither of the following
crops attains the size of the first,
and are not of very good flavour.
The name of the variety was not
known. It might be added that the
tree has not been pruned since the
present owner has known it, also
that the crop now setting never
gets much further because of the
advanced state of the season. — C. T.

A Beautiful Autumn-Flower-
ing Slirub. — 1 have been mucli
interested in the notes and articles
on different plants and shrubs
that flower in autumn which
have appeared recently in The
Garden, and am therefore sending
a photograph of what I consider
to be the most beautiful of hardy
autumn - flowering shrubs. This
is Tamarix Pallasii rosea, or T.
hispida aestivaUs as listed by most
nurserymen. The Kew authorities
now, I believe, name it T. pentan-
dra. But this confusion of names
does not detract in the least from the charm and
usefulness of the shrub. As will be seen, the young,
erect shoots have the same feathery and graceful
appearance as those of the ordinary Tamarisk,
and in August these are surmounted by large
plumes of rose pink flowers, resembling at a little
distance those of Spiraea or Astilbe Queen
Alexandra. The shrub illustrated is over five feet
high, and at the time the photograph was taken
created a great deal of interest. The flower-sprays
are ideal for cutting. I believe at Kew the plants
are pruned back almost to the ground-level each
year, whereby flowering is delayed for a fortnight ;
but to get large bushes it is only necessary to cut
away a little of the unripe wood in spring. Any
good garden soil appears to suit this shrub. —
E. G. G.

Saxifraga burseriana : Does It Need Sun
or Shade ? — ^The controversy over this question
arose, I believe, through Mr. Farrer having recom-
mended in one of his books that Saxifraga burseriana
should be grown in shade. In one of his letters
to The Garden he asked me to bear him out
in his statement that the Salum Klamm is a sunless
gorge, and that S. burseriana there grows in silt.
1 felt that it was unfortunate that I should be
drawn into a controversy with a fellow-alpinist
and be compelled to contradict him. I replied
that as far as I remembered there was a consider-
able amount of sun in the gorge, and that the
plant grew in scree rather than silt. If in this
innocent pursuit of the truth my feet came heavily
upon Mr. Farrer, it was the exact reverse of their
intention, and I apologise for the blunder. Mr.

TAMARIX

" scree." Scree is dibris of rocks, shingle, loo^
stones. Silt is a deposit of mud or fine soil fron
running or standing water, fine earthy sediment.
The material in which we found S. burseriana
was dibris from those very cliffs which failed to
make the gorge entirely sunless, and its " coarse-
ness of fine gravel " disqualified it as silt. I
fully agree with Mr. Homibrook and Mr. Farrer
that it is vain pedantry trying exactly to copy
natural circumstances under the altered conditions
of the garden. In fact, I was surprised when
Mr. Farrer instanced the alleged sunlessness of
the Salum Klamm to justify his recommendation
of shade in the garden. He invited my corrobora-
tion, which I was unable to give. If he suffered
under my tread, my anguish at the point of his
pen has been no less acute. Our agonies bemg
mutual, let us agree to court the
lovely Gloria, each in his own way.
— Clarence Elliott, Stevenage.

The conclusions of Mr.

Farrer anent this fine alpine as
given on page 474 interest and
please me greatly, and I am in
full accord with the idleness of
" trying exactly to copy natural
circumstances*' for this or any
other alpine. Indeed, the thing
is impossible, seeing that should
the cultivator be so clever as to
closely imitate the soil and position
in which this or any other alpine
occurs, he still leaves behind the
mountain with its altitude, its
pure, rarefied air and the snow — at
once a great coverlet in winter and
a gigantic water supply in summer
— none of which is possible of
imitation. Hence, in a more or less
slavish attempt to imitate soil and
position, the cultivator would suc-
ceed in but minor degree at the
utmost, and, were the other condi-
tions essential, gardeners would be
hopelessly handicapped at the out-
set. It was my realisation to the
contrary that caused me some
thirty or more years ago, when a
great controversy raged in The
Garden concerning alpine plants
and soils, to write of the indifference
with which alpine plants regarded
certain soils, an indifference only
equalled by that for altitude
and other things. Were it other-
wise, the cultivation of alpine
plants in lowland gardens would
be an impossible thing. As it is,
Farrer has since revisited the spot, and is now 1 the mountain, the altitude and the snow would
able " serenely to return to his original propo- ! appear no more an essential to the successful

PALLASII ROSEA, A BEAUTIFUL HARDY SHRUB THAT
FLOWERS IN AUGUST.

sition " (see page 474). His origuial proposition
was that it was a " sunless gorge." It now is
that " after a certain amount of sun in the morning,
the whole of Salum Klamm is in the shade of its
great walls for the rest of the day." This summer
I also passed in the train within half a mile of
the Salum Klamm, and saw the midday sun
streaming into the mouth of the gorge. Not only
was there a certain amount, but there was a con-
siderable amount. Mr. Farrer has said that the
soil in which S. burseriana grows in the Salum
Klamm is silt. He has even said this twice, and
that because it is so. Why is it so ? Because
Mr. Farrer has said so — and repeated it ? And
he says that I must really revise my notions of

cultivation of alpine vegetation than is the forest
jungle to an epiphytal Orchid or Table Mountain
to the " Flower of the Gods." Indeed, I believe
I have in the past gone so far as to state that
vegetable-life in Nature is very much a creature
of circumstance planted by Dame Nature's hand,
the plants doing their best to grow and increase
after their kind, and presently becoming estab-
lished there to the exclusion of all besides. In
lowland gardens the conditions under which
alpines are cultivated are so entirely opposed
to those of their native hatmts that we can arrive
at no other conclusion than that the latter mean
but \ery little to the plants at all. In any case,
so large a number so promptly adapt themselves

October 4, 191 3.]

THE GARDEN.

4f)5

to tlirir now environment tliat it rtiight be inter-
preted tlius with little fear of contradiction. And
so witli tlie unique Saxifrage, wfiicli has given
rise to a controversy which cannot but be for good
when all is said and done. Indeed, it cannot but
be helpful to beginners when so good an authority
a^ Mr. Farrer says that, given an adequate supply of
moisture, he finds no difference, *' either in health
or tloriferousness, between specimens grown in
shade or in the fullest sun." I most cordially
agree. Indeed, the whole of my experience is a
complete endorsement of the statement, not only
so far as concerns the subject of this note, but with
many Primulas and such proverbially shade-loving
plants as Ramondia and Haberlea, which, given
an adequate supply of water, arc as perfectly happy
in fullest sunlight as it is possible for plants ti>
be. Such things are almost invariably planted
in shade, however, because of our slavish imitation
of each other's work. When, however, the culti-
vator has learnt the lesson that moisture within
reach of the root-fibres is more than the equivalent
of shade, he may then be tempted to bring
supposed shade-loving subjects out into the
open, there to provide a feature that was un-
known before, and thereby also to add increased
interest to some particular phase of gardening.
A closing word as to soil. .\11 the burseriana
Saxifrages — and many others — have an abundance
of fine threadlike, almost silken root-fibres. Root
a batch of cuttings in June, and in August you
will find root-fibres in plenty, 8 inches or so long,
attached to a solitary rosette of half an inch high.
Their numbers and their fine silken texture many
years ago made me decide to give the plants a
very sandy, linely-sifted soil, and the way the
roots will ramify in such material is perhaps the
best proof of its suitability to these plants. —
E. H. Jenkins.

Artiflcial Manures and Vegetables.— This sub-
ject is of great interest, bntli t.. the exhibitor
who requires size, quality and rapidity of growth,
and to the commercial grower who must consider
cost of production and subsequent market value.
I cannot agree with " W. L." (page 471) that
artificials have a detrimental effect on the quality,
providing that a properly-balanced ration of
potash, phosphates and nitrogen are used according
to the requirements of the individual plant and
the character of the soil. With regard to Celery,
naturally a bog plant, my experience is that even
on a heavy soil a fair amount of humus is necessary
to retain moisture. Last year was undoubtedly
a favourable period for Celery. For exhibition
purposes I dug a trench as for Sweet Peas, 2 feet
6 inches deep, with a fair amoimt of animal manure
incorporated, also a small portion of charcoal.
The plants were put in the trenches on May 10,
fed with equal parts of sulphate of ammonia
and high-grade phosphate of potash. On August 4
the average weight was lolb. a brace. The foliage
was bright and of a leathery texture. The plant
as a whole was exceptionally solid, and did not turn
flabby even when left in the open for several days ;
the quality was grand. Occasional waterings
with lime-water were also given to liberate the
potash lying dormant. I also found that when
Celery was grown with the usual amount of ajiinial
manure in conjunction with nitrate of soda only,
the bulk was increased rapidly, with a correspond-
ing decrease in quality, the growth being flabby
and the plant drooping badly in the high tempera-
ture of the show tent. How frequently we see
soapsuds being used in the Celery trenches ! It
is difficult to make an old gardener believe there

is no manurial value there, the only advantage
being derived from the water. The only alkali
present in a hard soap is soda, often in the form
of both caustic, carbonate and silicate, in conjunc-
tion with fatty acids and resin acids, which are a
bugbear in the soil. As to the excessive use of
artificials, I do think that certain vegetables
will lose their keeping qualities, which I presume
must be owing to the rapid growth and premature
ripeness causing an early decay. I noticed Celery,
especially white, also Onions, affected the most ;
but large Leeks were in good condition as late as
April. Undoubtedly highly-concentrated chemicals
in inexperienced hands are a positive source of
danger ; but to obtain size and quality, my choice
is animal manure in conjunction with suitable
artificials and plenty of lime. — Fred W. Wait,
Lowdham, Notts.

In answer to " W. L.," I can quite under-
stand that Celery when grown with artificial
manures (used discriminately) and without animal
manures may be better in quality and, in
fact, may be better in every respect than when
grown entirely by the aid of animal manures.
" W, L." writes freely about chemical and artificial
manures (a vague term), but I find only two men-
tioned by name. Also, I can quite understand
Onions and other crops being affected adversely
as regards their keeping properties by the misuse
of nitrates in any form ; but when used judiciously
in conjmiction with other artificials I have never
experienced any trouble in keeping crops. In
agriculture, as " W. L." suggests, harmful effects
have been experienced by many who have used
nitrate of soda for hay crops ; but I know that
in many instances if the owner had known or
had taken the trouble to find out beforehand the
quantities of soluble and insoluble plant foods con-
tained in the soil, and then to have endeavoured to
have made up any deficiency by applyuig chemical
manures, any harmful effects would have been
avoided, for I have invariably found that where
failure or injury, partial or otherwise, has followed
the use of artificials, the fault has not been with the
manures, but with the users. Nitrate of soda applied
alone to any plant in liberal quantities would
tend to overbalance the plant's energies into making
gross and sappy leaf and stem growth, to the
detriment of the health of that plant. Again, I
should expect to find on any typical loam that
indiscreet applications of nitrates in any form
would injure the quality of Potatoes ; but on
soils deficient in nitrates, soluble or insoluble,
the application of nitrates in a prudent manner
could only tend to be beneficial, I admit that the
ease with which they can be applied tends to make
artificial manures dangerous in unskilled hands,
yet the ease with which they are applied is one
of the weightiest recommendations for their
extended use ; for whereas organic manures generally
entail the expenditure of a large amount of labour
and time, any chemical manure can be applied
in a few minutes, and where labour is scarce and
the saving of time in any department is an absolute
necessity, this cin only result in the general im-
provement of all parts. This is, I consider, a
great incitement to the more extended • use of
artificial manures, — W. C. C.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

October 7. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhi-
bition at Vincent Square, Westminster. Scottish
Horticultural Association's Meeting.

October 8. — East Anglian Horticultural Club's
Meeting.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

ANNUALS FOR FILLING FLOWER
BORDERS.

WHEN flower- borders are newly
arranged and the plants placed
so as to be right when they
have come to their strength,
there will be gaps between for
the first year. Some may like
to crowd the border full at once, but the other way
is the better one, allowing space for gradual root
growth and securing the best form of grouping.
This spacing offers an opportunity for a good use
of annual plants. In order to preserve any scheme
of colour that may be intended, the hardy annuals
that are sown in September or March, and the
half-hardy kinds that are put out in May or June,
should be of the same colom' as the permanent
plants. The following lists give the names of
some of the most useful and most easily grown, in
separate colours, the words " back," " middle "
and " front " indicating their place in the
border.

White. — Back: Hollyhock, Poppy (double tall),
Nicotiana affinis, N. sylvestris, Impatiens Roylei,
variegated Maize. Middle : Sweet Sultan, China
Aster Mammoth and any tall kinds. Chrysanthe-
mum coronarium, Polygonum Sutton's Gem,
Snapdragon (tall), Godetia. Front : Snapdragon
Intermediate, Clarkia, Gypsophila elegans, Jacobaea,
Alyssum maritiraum.

Yellow. — Back : Hollyhock, primrose annual
Sunflower, Tropajolum canariense. Snapdragon
(tall), CEnothera lamarckiana. Middle : Snap-
dragon Intermediate, primrose African Marigold,
Sweet Sultan, Gaillardia Double Yellow. Front :
Mignonette, dwarf Tropa;olum, French Marigold
Miniature Lemon, African Marigold Dwarf Lemon,
Feverfew Golden Feather, Platystemon califomi-
cum, Limnanthes Douglasii. ►

Orange. — Back : Annual Sunflower, French
Marigold (tall). Coreopsis Drummondi, C. tinctoria.
Middle : Gaillardia picta. Calendula Orange King,
Eschscholtziacalifomica, Front: African Marigold
(dwarf), French Marigold Dwarf and Miniature
Orange, dwarf Tropceolum,

Pink. — Back : Hollyhock, Lavatera trimestris.
Snapdragon (tall), Impatiens glandulifera. Middle :
Godetia Double Rose, Scabious, Clarkia, Snap-
dragon Intermediate, Front : Phlox Drummondi,
Hieraceum, Indian Pmk, Snapdragon (short).

Red. — Back : Hollyhock, tall Poppy, Ricinus
sanguineus, R. Gibsoni, Snapdragon (tall), .A.triplex
hortensis. Middle : Malope grandiflora. Snap-
dragon Intermediate, Linum grandiflorum,
Alonsoa. Front : Phlox Drummondi, dwarf
Tropaeolum, Collomia, Snapdragon, Indian Pink.

Lilac and purple, — Back : Tall Poppy, Salvia
farinacea. Scabious, Middle : China Asters (tall),
Ageratum mexicanum. Front : Collinsia bicolor,
Ageratum (dwarf).

Blue, — Back : Convolvulus major. Cornflower,
Lupine (tall). Middle: Nigella, Convolvulus minor,
Lupiuus Hartwegii, Front : Nemesia, Nemophila,
Lobelia, Pliacelia campanularia.

It will be understood that in the case of annuals
that are of many colours, such as China Asters,
Snapdragons and Tropjeoluras, the colour meant
is that at the head of each list of plants
of the three heights. Good cultivation is, of
course, in every case essential, although this
must not be taken to mean such heavy
manuring as will tend to make the plants grow
coarse, G, Jekvll.

496

THE GARDEN.

[October 4, 1913.

V

J*

BEST SWEET PEAS IN A SCOTTISH
GARDEN.

While at no time growing for exhibition, we
still like to have good flowers for cutting
and for garden adornment. We do not pretend
to grow all the novelties, but rather content
ourselves with a selection from the best of the older
proved varieties, with an occasional new sort
that takes our fancy at exhibitions. This has been
«ur best season, for although buds dropped rather
badly during June and early July, the plants
were at the middle of September over ten feet
high and covered with richly-coloured flowers of
good size and with fairly long
stems. " Fours " have been
quite plentiful. It may now
be of some little interest if I
compare some of the varieties
as grown here under identical
conditions as to soil, manuring
and exposure. If anything,
Helen Grosveuor has been better
than Edrom Beauty, although
both are well worth a place in
any garden. Maud Holmes has
grown taller and flowered more
abundantly than Dobbie's Sun-
proof Crimson, but the latter
gives more " fours." Early in
the season Isobel Malcolm was
better than Dobbie's Cream, but
latterly tlie positions have been
reversed. The former gave most
" fours."

Barbara is much larger and
a better grower than Stirling
Stent, but not so deep in colour.
Scarlet Emperor has been very
fine indeed, and so has Red
Star. The latter is the more
brilliant in the bunch. Asta Ohn
was better than Frank Dolby.
I am sorry I missed Rosabelle
this year when selecting, as I
saw it very fine in Fife. John
Tngman (Dobbie's stock) has been
finer than ever before. Lady
Miller is very beautiful and a
shade deeper than Mrs.
Routzahn. The latter has been
very fine indeed. Norah Unwin
has been the best white, both
larger and purer than Etta Dyke.
Nubian has outdistanced Othello,
producing a large percentage of
" fours." Mrs. H. Sykes has
been much more floriferous than
Elfrida Pearson, but the blooms
are much smaller in size. The , THE
largest flowers were borne by
Hercules. This is a magnificent
Sweet Pea, the finest pink I have seen this season.
W. P. Wright has been most disappointing. I
was so taken with this last year that I purchased
three packets of seed, and out of these obtained only
about six plants true to name. Even these did but
little good, the flowers being small and with a
green tinge in them. Constance Oliver, Apple
Blossom Spencer and the old Dorothy Eckford have
been very good. I hop» those who have to grow
Sweet Peas under similar conditions to those
experienced here will fixid the above particulars of
some use. C. Blair.

Preston House Gardens, Linlilhgow.

THE

OR BELL-

CAMPANULAS
FLOWERS.

(Continued from page 473.)

C. haylodgensis. — This is a hybrid raised at
Hay Lodge, Edinburgh, and is a charming plant,
like the yellowish-leaved form of C. Profusion
raised by Mr. E. H. Jenkins. It is of trailing
growth, and has large, light blue flowers in June.
Sometimes a little tender. Increased by division
or cuttings.

C. hederacea. — This is really Wahlenbergia
hederacea, and a lover of moisture, such as wet
ditches. A charming native, raised by division

NEW PERPETUAL-KLOWERING CARNATION FAIRMOUNT
reduced.) [See page 500).

or from seeds. 'Blue flowers in July
August.

C. imeritiana. — About a foot high, with a spike
of purple blue flowers in June. Apparently short-
lived in gardens. Rockery, in light soil.

C. isophylla. — A charming, well-known basket
or window plant, flowering in June, July and August,
and often grown in gardens with grand effect,
where it is hardy. Lovely on a wall iu either the
blue or white varieties, but suffering from wet in
winter and requiring a sheet of glass overhead
in many places. C. floribunda is apparently a
form of this Bellflower.

C. laciniata^ — About a foot high, this would
be better appreciated were it not a biennial. It
has rather handsome blue, open flowers in loose
panicles in July. A hot, dry place suits this best.
Division or seeds.

C. lanata. — I believe that this is the plant
known as C. velutina at the present time, but
C. mollis is said to be the same as C. velutina.
It has been coming to the front lately, and it will
probably do well if young plants are secured and
planted in hot, sunny crevices, or in the moraine
or wall garden. It has roundish, woolly leaves
and graceful, light saffron blooms in July on
arching stems. It is said to be a biennial, but
this is doubtful. C. 1. alba is very
pretty.

C. Iangsdor£Qana. — A synonym
of C. Parryi and after the fashion
of C. rotundifolia, with blue flowers
in July. It is being offered as C.
Parryi at the present time.

C. libanotica. — I only know this
plant by sight, and am not pre-
pared to say much about it. It
ought, from its habitats, to be
hardy in dry rock gardens or in
the moraine. It is a miniature C.
persicifolia, about a foot high, and
blooms in June and July.

C. longistyla. — Unfortunately,
this is a biennial, but it has hand-
some blue flowers in good spikes
in July, and with projecting styles,
which add to its effect. Seeds.
A dry soil in winter. About a foot
high.

C. macrorrhiza. — A charming,
rare species, with pretty tufts of
leaves and lilac blue rotundifolia-
like bells on slender branches in
autumn. Capital for the rock
garden, on large moraine, or wall
garden. Seeds or cuttings.

C. Mayi. — A well-known basket
plant and excellent for warm
walls, especially where it can be
shielded from ram in winter by a
sheet of glass. One of the C.
isophylla class, and raised by divi-
sion or cuttings. July. •

C. mirabilis. — A plant which
excited a good deal of attention
some years ago. It has large,
blue bells on stout stems in August
and September, is about a foot
high, is only a biennial, and must
be raised from seeds sown in May
or June. A pleasing plant, but
lessened in value by its biennial
[Much habit.

C. mollis. — There is a good deal

of confusion about this plant. C.

and molUs, as I knew it years ago, was simply C.

portenschlagiana bavarica, but the present-day

plant is after the garganica fashion, with thickly

wool-covered leaves and blue flovyers, liking dry,

sunny places. Division or cuttings. June and July.

C. muralis. — See C. portenschlagiana.

C. morettiana. — A plant after the fashion of

a miniature C. portenschlagiana, likmg cool, shady

limestone rocks and difiictflt to establish. The

flowers are lighter than those of C. portenschlagiana.

Seeds, division, or cuttings. June and July.

C. nitida or planiflora. — A charming little
miniature with erect stems 6 inches tog inches high,

OcTOnER 4, IQI.l-]

THE GARDEN.

497

aiid rather large, flat, open flowers in July. There
are four forms, wliich are growing scarce. The
type is single blue, alba is single white, and there
are double forms of each. Grows on flat spots
(■11 the rockery or border, and likfs some shade
OivisiOM.

C. pelviformis. — SeeC. carpatirH. S. .\RNori.
( fo be continued.)

THE GREENHOUSE.

RAISING FUCHSIAS FROM SEED.

* S Fuchsias are so readily increased from
/% luttings, there is no reason to resort

/ % to sowing seeds for the propagation of
^"■^^ any particular varieties, but at (he
* ^ same lime the raising of Fuchsias from

seeds is very interesting. As a raiser
of some of the varieties that are now in
general cultivation, I have for many years
paid great attention to the subject, and
while meeting with some successes, have
had many failures. Some of the Fuchsias,
which if left alone will bear a great profusion
of Cherry-like fruits, cannot be depended
upon to produce a single fertile seed, wh'le
others whose fruits are of a more unpromis-
ing nature may be far more prolific in this
respect.

I was first led to take up the raising of
seedling Fuchsias by the late Mr. Thomas
Todman, who a generation and more ago
used to raise not only new Fuchsias, but
Azaleas, Pelargoniums, Verbenas and other
plants. He pointed out that, as far as his
experience extended, having once found a
good and reliable seed-bearer, it should be
retained for the purpose, and indicated as
one of the most useful plants he had a speci-
men bearing comparatively poor, semi-double
flowers with a rosy white corolla. From
this, though it was not worth keeping for
its own intrinsic merit, he obtained many
fine varieties by fertilising the flowers with
the pollen of different kinds. Some of the
progeny produced (juite dark-coloured blos-
soms. I have endeavoured to find out
whether the influence of the male or female
parent exercises the greatest effect on the
blossoms, but cannot say that I cai settle
anything to my own satisfaction.

."Vt one time it was considered difficult
to cross a variety having a white corolla
with a dark one, but this proved with
me one of the easiest of all, the progeny
bearing corollas of different shades of pink
or rose. In habit the seedlings varied consider-
ably, the union of two vigorous-growing kinds
often resulting in some comparative dwarfs,
and vice versa. Among seedlings raised from
ordinary green-leaved forms a bright golden-
foliaged variety made its appearance, while from
large-flowered kinds I raised almost a counterpart
of the compact-growing, free-flowering variety
Alice Hoffmann. One singular feature seems
worthy of being recorded. A fertilised pod yielded
only two good seeds, both of which germinated.
In foliage, habit and flower the two plants resembled
each other so closely that everyone would look
upon them as identical, yet, strange to say,
the cuttings from one of them took twice as
long to strike as did cuttings from the other.
Time after time the correctness of this was
verified.

In order to save the seed we are sometimes
recommended to rub the berries up with dry silver
sand, but I prefer quite a different mode of pro-
cedure. When the berries are fully ripe, if they
are then cut open it is quite easy to detect the

months, when bright-coloured blossoms <'ir(- appre-
ciated more than at any other season. lu the case
of some species the flowers are borne in a terminal
head or cluster. These are, as a rule, <jf upright
growth, and it is useless to expect them to form

fertile seeds, which may amount only to two or , bushy plants, as if the top is pinched out in order
three, or even none at all. These can be readily j to encourage the production of side shoots, the
picked off with the point of a penknife and trans- j plant does not readily break into growth, and,
ferred to a piece of blotting-paper ; they will what is more, the weak shoots fail to flower in a
soon dry. Although this may appear a some- '• satisfactory manner. .As a rule, the winter-
what troublesome process, as a matter of fact it I flowering members of this section, such as I.
takes much less time than when the berries are ' chrysostephana and J. coccinea, are seen at their
squeezed to a pulp and mixed with sand. best when grown in pots 5 inches to 6 inches in

The seed may be sown as soon as ripe, but I I diameter and each carrying three good heads of
prefer to keep it till the end of February, when blossoms. They ma\' then be had well furnished
il is sown in some well-drained pots filled with a

mixture of loam, leaf-mould and sand. These
pots are then placed in a gentle heat of 50° to 65°,
under which conditions the seeds will soon germi-

Mi

■:i\-\'

THE NEW PRIMUL.\ VINCjEFLORA SHOWN AT THE
LAST MEETING OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL
SOCIETY (Twn-thirdx naturat size). {See page ^oo).

nate, and with care the young plants grow away
freely afterwards. Many of them will flower the
first season, but it is only in the second year that
one can form a reliable opinion of their merits.
Seedlings raised from the pretty variegated-
leaved variety Sunray have invariably come green,
wh'le tlie same results followed its use as a pollen-
bearer.

WINTER-FLOWERING PLANTS FOR
THE WARM GREENHOUSE.

The Jacobinias.
Several of the plants now included in the
genus Jacobinia have at one time or another
been referred to other genera. Matters have, how-
ever, been simplified by bringing them all under
one head. Some of them are particularly valuable
from the fact that they flower during the winter

with leaves, which is not the case if large speci-
mens are aimed at. The propagation of all the
Jacobinias is an easy matter, as cuttings of the
young growing shoots taken as early in the spring
as possible will strike root without difficulty
if put into pots of sandy soil and placed in
a frame where there is a gentle bottom-
heat. They need to be shifted on into
larger pots when required, and throughout
the summer the best place for them is a frame
where a fair amomit of air can be given,
shutting up the lights somewhat early in
order to husband the sun-heat.

Of the Jacobinias that flower during the
winter months, especial mention may be
made of J. chrysostephana, a native of
Mexico, which was first distributed about
forty years ago under the name of
Cyrtanthera chrysostephana. In this species
^ the flowers are of a curved, tubular shape,
and so disposed in a terminal head as to
form a cruwn-Iike cluster. They are of a
bright orange colour, .ind a group of this
species in full bloom forms a very striking
feature during a dull winter's day.

J. coccinea is in habit and cultural
requirements much like the preceding, but
the flowers are bright scarlet in colour. It is
a native of Brazil.

J. ghiesbreghtiana was formerly known
by the generic name of Sericographis. In
this the deep scarlet flowers are produced
in loose panicles, instead of crowded heads
as in the two preceding species. The ovate-
lanceolate leaves are quite smooth and ol a
very rich green tint.

J. pauciflora, under the name of Libonia
fioribunda, has been extensively grown for
many years. It forms a freely-branched,
bushy specimen, clothed with small, oblong
leaves, and the flowers, which in a good
example are exceedingly numerous, are
about an inch long, tubular in shape, and in
colour scarlet, tipped with gold. It requires careful
treatment, otherwise the leaves are apt to acquire
a yellowish tinge, when much of the beauty of the
plant is lost. In order to keep the leaves in good
condition, an occasional dose of soot-water is very
helpful when the pots are well furnished with roots.
J. penrhosiensis is reported to be a garden hybrid
between J. pauciflora and J. ghiesbreghtiana, and
the general appearance of the plant would suggest
that such is its origni. It shows more of a leaning
towards J. pauciflora, but the flowers have more
crimson in their colouring, and the leaves, which,
are more pointed, are of a deeper shade of green.

Of the other species, J. magnifica, represented
by several varieties, is a very striking plant, but
its usual se.ison of blooming is during the summer
months, . H. R

498

THE GARDEN.

[October 4, 1913

OUR THIRD PRIZE
ROCK GARDEN.

DRYNHAM, OATLANDS
CHASE, WEYBRIDGE.

THE gardens ] at Diyuiiam
were laid out some four
or five years ago by Mr.
William Barr, of Messrs.
Barr and Sons of Thames
Ditton, and present many
pliasing features of really natural
gardening. The rock garden is a
much more recent addition ; in fact,
a year ago it was not completed, it
being purchased at the Royal Inter-
national Exhibition of 1912, whence
it was removed and reconstructed
by Mr. J. Wood of Boston Spa.
Naturally, on removing it to another
site, the design had to be amended
or altered to suit the new position,
and considerable extensions were
made along the banks of the already
existing pond or pool, which, in
the estimation of the designer and
the owner, have added much to its
beauty and effectiveness.

At the time of photographing, it
could not be said to have attained
its full beauty, as many of the more
showy subjects were not in bloom, it
being planted to provide, as far as
possible, a continuous display as far as
it is consistent with the natural scheme
of construction. The first illustration
shows the water inlet ; this, by the way, is artificial
but it^ flows in naturallv over a shelving rock

I. THE ROCK G.\RDEN AT DRYNH.\M, WEYBRIDGE, SHOWING WATER INLET WITH ARENARIA

. . •■BALEARICA AND OTHER PLANTS ON SHELVING ROCKS.

I whence it
I ra\'ino or

falls with one or two breaks into a
gorge, thence into a pool in the forc-

, ground,
pool, sc

3. GENERAL VIEW OF THE ROCK GARDEN, WITH WATER

POOL BELOW.

TLOWING THROUGH GORGE INTO

winch again overflows into the lar,' t
1! in the third illustration. One or two
of the most noticeable subjects are
Fcstuca glauca (Blue Grass), Tiarella
tordifolia (Foam Flower), Giant Thrift,
.Arenaria balearica, Saxifragas in
variety (S. Cotyledon and S. longi-
lolius just throwine up their flower-
spikes), Ramondia pyrcnaica and
Sedum sarmentosum. Convolvulus
Cneorum, though not quite hardy,
had come tlirough the winter well
and was sliowing flower, while Veronica
repens, planted almost on the water-
level, was a mass of white blossoms
The second illustration is a more com-
prehensive view of the rockery, as it
really includes the first illustration,
but it gives a slight idea of the gorge
or ravine vrith the stream running into
the pool in the foreground and the
shelving rocks on either side. These
are planted with an infinite variety
of small and interesting subjects.
Sempervivums and Sedums in variety
are installed with many of the first-
mentioned plants in niches on either
side of the ravine, while on the more
exposed parts of the rockery are four
patches or groups of Lithospermum
prostratum, Incarvillea grandifiora,
Iberis gibraltarica, and Helianthemums
in variety, Lysimachia aurea (yellow
Jenny Creeper) showing up well
against the intense blue of the
Lithospermum. Primula sikkimensis
and P. cockburniana were flower-
ing well, as also was GnapJialium

i

OCTOBFR 4, IOI3O

THE GARDEN.

499

I.eontopodiiim, this {jrowiii^ in fiiu- masses and |
be'Ug covered witli hlnom. ;

Ou the moraine or riglit-liaud side of the iUustra-
tion are many minnte and inlercstins; snbjects, such
as Knirusled Saxifrages, Lychnis alpina, Polentilla
pyrenaica, Dondia cpipactis, Sanguinaria canadensis,
Sokianolla montana, S. alpina, Ranunculus
crenatus, R. amplexicaulis and R. bilobus, Salix
p\-renaica, Bellis caerulescens, and Cardamine
irifoliata.

The third illustration, looking cast, is a continua-
tion of tlip rockery running down to and by the side
of the pool. Here some of the larger masses of
the stone are already getting well covered with
Saxifragas, Thymus, Erodiums, &c., while Primula
japonica. Spiraeas, Iris and other moisture-loving
subjects are planted by the water-side. On the banks
extending beyond and bacldng up the rockery
are planted such subjects as shrubby Veronicas,
Cytisuses in variety, Rosa rugosa,
Weigela, .■\butilon vitifolium, Lupinus,
&c., the pool itself being planted witli
various aquatics, including a t^ood
collection of N'ymph.ci,.

quite halfway and removing many of the weaker
branches right to the base. In the case of H. caly-
cinum the plants may be cut over to the ground-
line, and in this instance the work iMiy be reserved
tor Mardi. Tl\e stronger-growing kinds arc bene-
fited by a surface-dressing of well-decayed manure
in March or April every second year, especially
if the soil is not very good. They do not often
suffer seriously from drought, although, as is the
case with other shrubs, they appreciate a good
watering now and then in very dry weather. Of
the many kinds which may be obtained, a selection
is appended of those which arc suitable for general
planting.

H. androsaemum is a European species which
is known under the common name of Tutsan.
It grows from ij feet to 3 feet high, and forms a
shapely, wide-spreading bush with broadly ovate
or almost elliptical leaves and large heads of small

foimd wild in the British Isles, where it grows
from 12 inches to 15 inches high, bearing rich golden
flowers 3 inches or more across.

H. densiflorum, H. kaluiianum, H. galioides and H.
proliticuui are North .American species which grow
about two Icet high, forming rather dense bushes
made up of numerous twiggy branches clothed
with small, narrow leaves, and bearing pretty
golden flowers in large heads. The botanical
differences which separate the species are small,
and there is little to choose between them for
beauty.

H. elatum is a vigorous-growing plant from the
Canary Islands. Attaining a height of from 3 feet
to 4 feet, it blossoms freely when planted in full
sun, but when planted in shady places it often fails
to do itself justice.

H. hookerianum is one of the best of the taller-
growing kinds. It is a native of the Himalaya,

TREES AND SHRUBS

LATE FLOWERING SHRUBS
FOR SHADED PLACES.

The Shkibev St. Joh.s's Wokts.

THE shrubby species of Hy-
pericum or St. John's Wort
form an important group,
for they blossom during
summer and early autumn,
a time when flowering
shrubs are becoming scarce ; and some
of them are well adapted for planting
in semi-shade, for they thrive even
when planted close up to the trunks
of large trees, such as Limes and Oaks.
One point may be urged against them,
viz., the lack of variety in the coloiu"
of the flowers, for all are yellow,
though there is some difference in
shade. There is, however, considerable
variation in the size of the bloom--
and the manner in which they arc
produced, while a wide difference exists
betw-een the habit and stature of the
various species.

Propagation. — Taken as a whole,
their cultivation offers no difficulty,
for, providing moderately good loamy
soil is given, they grow and flower
freely, while a few give quite good results when
planted in sandy ground. It is a mistake to keep
the plants too long, however, and as soon as signs
of deterioration appear they should be destroyed
and a fresh start made with young stock. Young
plants are easily raised, for seeds collected in
autumn and sown in sandy soil indoors during early
spring vegetate quickly, and nice plants are pro-
duced in the course of the succeeding summer.
Many of the kinds may also be increased by means
of cuttings of half-ripe wood inserted in pots of
sandy soil in a close frame in July, and such species
as H. calycinimi are easily increased by division
in spring.

Pruning. — One point to be observed in the
cultivation of these plants is the necessity for an
annual pruning during late winter or early spring.
February is a very good time for the work, and it
should consist of cutting last year's shoots back

3. CONTINU.\TION OF THE ROCK G.\RDEN BY M.'VRGIN OF THE POOL.

vellow flowers, which are succeeded by showy
black fruits.

H. aegyptiacum, H. balearicum and H. olympicum
are three dwarf showy species from the Medi-
terranean region and .Asia Minor which are suitable
for the rockery. .As they are inclined to be tender,
they should be given a sheltered but sunny position.
The last named is specially worthy of note, for
it is very floriferous, and the flowers are large and
showy.

H. aureum, a native of the Southern United
States, grows 2 feet or so high and blossoms freely ;
while H. Buckleyi, a dwarf-growing kind from the
mountains of the same country, shoidd find a place
on the rockery.

H. calycinum is perhaps the most useful of all
the Hypericums, for it succeeds in sun and shade,
and is an excellent plant for carpeting ground
beneath trees. A native of the Orient, it is also

and grows from 2 feet to 2^ feet high. The oval
leaves are somewhat glaucous in colour, and the
shapely golden flowers are upwards of 2 inches across.

H. patulum, a native of India and China, is an
elegant little bush, bearing large golden flowers,
but it is rather tender and delicate, and for general
usefulness has to give place to its more vigorous
variety Henryi, This grows into a good-sized
spreading bush, and bears its large golden blossoms
freely.

H. moserianum is a charming hybrid between
calycinum and patulum, and it inherits the good
qualities of both, while it is much hardier than H.
patulum. It grows about a foot high, spreads
freely into a plant ij feet or 2 feet across, and
blossoms with remarkable freedom, the flowers
being large and of a rich golden hue. It is an
excellent subject for specimen beds or groups
in the front of a shrubbery. W. D.

500

THE GARDEN.

[October 4, 1913.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

SIMULTANEOUS SPORTS AMONG
ROSES.

THERE have been i|iiili a uuiuber
ijf instances where a ceitain variety
of Rose has sported in exactly
the same way on different plants
in widely-separated districts. Doubt-
less this has been the cause of
some duplicates or symonyms, and it becomes
almost necessary to enquire if others have
the same sport before distributing your own
to the public, and so having the same variety-
mider more than one name. A few examples of
tliis occur to me, but we also have the same fact
among Chrysanthemums, Pelargoniums and other
florists' flowers that are largely propagated by
cuttings or grafts. I think it was in the year
1892 that the Rev. G. H. Engleheart explained his

older plants simultaneously to its discovery at
Reigate. Dorothy Perkins has produced quite a
number of sports remarkably alike, and all the
more so if we take into consideration how variable
the sports themselves are. I have frequently
found a stray flower or two of the true Dorothy
Perkins in the midst of White Dorothy, and also
in those beautiful blush pink trusses of Dorothy
Dennison and Christian Curie. Lately there
has been considerable discussion re the number of
duplicates, which are all too frequent ; but those
emanating from sports may often have been
genuine and distributed with all honesty as being
distinct, so far as the raiser was aware. A. P.

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

AWARDS OF MERIT.
Primula vincseflora. — This remarkable species (see
illustration c.)n p. 497) was sent by Professor Bayley

Carnation Fairmount.— This is a grand perpetual-
flowering variety, after the colour of Mikado
(bluish lilac), but an improvement in many ways.
In colour it is almost fascinating, while the flowers
are large, full and fragrant. Shown by Messrs.
.Mlwood Brothers.

Chrysanthemum Olive.- .\ fine, early-floiverhig
border variety of chestnut crimson colour and
bronze reverse. From Messrs. W. Wells and Co.

Rose iHoonlight. — This variety recently received
the gold medal of the National Rose Society. It
was showii in lovely form in large trusses of ex-
panded flowers. Shown by the Rev. J. H.
Pemberton.

Aster Beauty of Ronsdorf. — This in time will

prove a \'ery popular variety. It is a form of
Aster Amellus, witli Ijlooms measuring 3 inches
in diameter. It is heliotrope in colour and less
than two feet in height.

Aster Mrs. Frank Penn. — This is a variety of
A. Novi-Belgii. Its attraction lies in its wonderful

colour, which is bright rosy purple.

Shown by Messrs. H. J. Jones, Limited.

NEW DAHLIAS.

Awards of merit were given to the
following by a joint committee ol
the National Dahlia Society and the
floral committee : Rupert, from Mr.
Shoesmith, Woking ; Homere, from
Messrs. J. Burrell and Co. ; Dorothy
Havves, from Messrs. Stredwick and Son,
St. Leonards-on-Sea ; Reginald Cory
and Ruby, from Messrs. Cheal, Crawley ;
Mrs. J. C. Vaughan and Herzogin
von Braunschweig, from Messrs.
Wamaar and Co., Holland.

A BEAUTIFUL W.\TER-SIDE GROUPING OF THE ALKANET, ANCHUSA ITALICA DROPMORE VARIETY
HOW TO INCREASE THIS PLANT IS FULLY DESCRIBED ON THE OPPOSITE PAGE.

theory of the matter to me, and it was very striking.
That gentleman's explanation was that a special
variety so propagated was really one and the
same plant as if they — or the piece of growth
removed — were upon the original, and that upon
arriving at a certain stage or age they all developed
the same peculiarity. He gave a further illustra-
tion by saymg that where a disease or singularity cf
mind or body was inherent in a family, it .commonly
appeared among the members at precisely the
same time of life.

I have known of several instances of what were
undoubtedly simultaneous sports. There are the
cases of Mrs. Harkness and Paul's Early Blush
sporting from Heinrich Schultheis, also Souvenir
de S. A. Prince and The Queen from Souvenir
d'un Ami. The same variety tlirew a white
sport near here at the same time, as nearly as I
can discover. The sport from Catherine Mermet —
Muriel Grahame — also appeared upon one ol our

Balfour from the Botanic Garden, Edinburgh,
where it has this year flowered for the first time.
The flat, expanded flower is pale violet in colour,
deepening in shade in the centre of the flower.
It was collected by Forrest in 1905 in the Lichiang
Mountains of Yunnan, and introduced through
Messrs. Bees, Limited.

Berberis aggregata. — This new Chinese species
was shown by 'the Hon. Vicary Gibbs (gardener,
Mr. E. Beckett). It is one of many ornamental
shrubs sent home by Wilson from China. It was
shown as a richly-berried shrub of spreading habit
less than two feet in height. The beiries are of a
creamy hue, rosy on the sunny side, and produced
in immense clusters.

Carnation Sahnon King. — An efiective and
beautiful variety with bright salmon rose flowers.
It is perpetual - flowering, fragrant and very
free. Shown by the raisers, Messrs. Stuart Low
and Co.

NEW ORCHIDS.

Lselio-Cattleya Armada. — This is
,1 disthict hybrid from L.-C. lumi-
iiosa and C. fulvescens. It has
yellowish sepals and petals, and
purplish crimson lip. Exhibited by
Sir G. Holford.

Cattleya Cybele Davidson 's

Variety. — A fine Cattleya derived
from the intercrossing of C. gas-
kelliana alba and C. luddemanniana.
The sepals and petals are almost white,
and the lip has a yellow throat, then
a purplish crimson area, nicely mar-
gined with white. From E. H. David-
son, Esq., Orchid Dene, Twyford.
The foregoing were shown before the Royal

Horticultural Society on September 23. when the

awards were made.

NEW FRurr.

Damson Merryweather. — It is seldom that a
new Damson is put before the fruit committee.
This variety, however, is of such surpassing quality
that it was unanimously given the high award of
a first-class certificate. A coloured plate of this
variety appeared in The Garden, October 22y
1911. The trees of this Damson are as vigorous
as a Victoria Plum, and the fruits much larger than
the largest Damson hitherto known. It has a
fine Damson flavour, and even in the yoimg state
the trees crop heavily. Shown by Messrs. Merry-
weather and Sons. This variety was shown at
the Royal Horticultural Society's Fruit Show
on September 25.

October 4, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

501

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

THE CULTIVATION OF THE DROPMORE ALKANET (ANGHUSA ITALICA DROPMORE VARIETY).

E

ROOT CUTTINGS OI'

other

VERYONE with a fairly wide flower
border should grow the delightful blue-
flowered Dropmore Anchusa. It rivals
the Delphinium as the best tali-growiiig
blue-flowered per-
ennial. Were the
plants only in flower for a
fortnight or three weeks, this
.\lkanet would be worth grow-
ing ; but as a succession of
flowers is maintained for
something like three, or even
four months, it is of in-
estimable value for borders
and beds. Commencing to
flower towards the end of May
when about two feet high,
the plants in good soil will
grow 6 feet or more in height,
producing a profusion of blos-
soms throughout the summer.
If the shoots which have
flowered are cut out in
August, side growths will
push up and flower in autumn.
Unlike many tall herbaceous
plants which produce flowers
only near the tops of the
growths, the Dropmore
Anchusa has flowers prac-
tically from the bottom
to the top when not crowded roiuid with
plants. (See illustration on opposite page).

Root Cuttings form the readiest means of
propagation. At this season of the year one or two
plants may be lifted to obtain a supply of the thick,
fleshy roots. These should be cut
mto pieces 2 inches to 3 inches ; some
may be thicker than one's thumb, while
others will not be thicker than, or
even as thick as, a pencil. Under
favourable conditions almost every piece
of root will produce a young plant. It
is important when cutting up the roots
to have the cut surface at the top
straight across and the bottom slanting ;
otherwise, when planting the pieces of
root which are the same thickness all
the way along, it will be difficult to
decide which is the bottom and which
the top. For safety, especially when
the garden soil is heavy, some growers
lay the roots 2 inches apart in boxes
of very sandy soil for the winter.
Placed in a cold frame, these will start
into growth m early spring, and shotild
then, during favourable weather, be
planted out where they are to flower.
Another method is to lay the roots in
soil at the foot of a warm south wall
for the winter, planting them out as
before recommended in early spring.

Thougli a hardy perennial, in
heavy, wet soils the Anchusa roots
often rot off in wmter. In such
gardens a supply of roots should be
obtained from the old plants which
have flowered, and placed in a cold

frame annually in autumn. .^s a contrast to who do not already grow the Dropmore .Mkaiiet,
this, in light, sandy soils, when the border has and anyone interested in obtaining variation ui
been dug over, pieces of the root will grow and push colour, may sow seeds under glass in a heated
up all over the surface of the ground. The old , greenhouse duruig February, or in a cold frame

from April to June. The
paler variety named Opal,
which is grown in some gar-
dens, was obtained in this way.
To aid in securing the
succession of flowers which is
such a desirable feature of
this beautiful blue-flowered
perennial, the plants should
be liberally mulched with old
decayed manure towards the
end of May. Staking the
leading shoots is desirable
during Jime ; otherwise, later
in the season the growths will
fall about and tying will then
be much more difficult. Cut
sprays are useful for room
decoration, being particularly
effective with a few pieces of
liypsophila interspersed.

THE DROP.MORE .\LKANET READY
COLD IRAME I OR THE WINTER.

FOR PLACING IN A

PRUNING GOOSE-
BERRIES AND RED
CURRANTS.

I.s districts where birds are not
troublesome, the early pruning
roots or clumps do not divide satisfactorily, and of Gooseberries and Currants is advisable. A num-
this method of increase is not worth considering, ber of years ago I primed a Gooseberry bush in a
The plants produce seeds, but as a good many of large plantation, just one bush, at an early date,
the seedlings do not come true, propagation by leaving the remainder to be pruned the followmg
root cuttings is preferable. Those, however, spring. The new shoots on the autumn-pruned

bush grew very strongly and early, and,
of course, the berries were large.

If the Gooseberries are intended for
exhibition, the pruning of the branches
must be rather more severe than in in-
stances where the crop is intended solely
for home consumption. In the first case
leave the branches quite 6 inches apart ;
prime the side shoots back to two buds
from the base if these branches grow from
spurs, and to three buds if they grow
from main stems. The leading shoots
must be cut back to half their length.
The same system may be applied when
pruning Red and White Currants.

If prunmg be done to form bushes,
for bearing general crops of fruits, then
the main branches should be left about
four inches apart ; but the side shoots
must be cut back as advised in the case
of pruning for exhibition fruit. The
leading shoots, however, need not be cut
back more than one-third their length.
I refer, of course, to shoots made during
the current year. Always prune to a
liud pointing outwards and upwards ;
then ths new shoots, especially the
leading ones, grow in an upward direc-
tion, and so improve the form of the
bush and keep the branches from being
weighed down by the quantity of
frmt. B.

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-iSSSi.

ROOTED CUTTINGS, SHOWING HOW THE NEW GROWTHS ARE
PRODUCED. THESE QUICKLY MAKE LARGE PLANTS.

502

THE GARDEN.

[OcTOBEfi 4, 1913*

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Rose Garden.

Planting Fresh Beds. — Readers whu intend
planting Iresh beds this season would be well
advised to get the ground or beds prepared as
early as possible, as early planting, I feel assured,
is a great factor towards the ultimate success
of the plants.

Preparation of the Soil. — Fairly deep trenching
and plenty of manure well below the surface are
quite essential, witli a sprinkling of bone-meal
in the top spit, while the addition of some clay
or very heavy loam to the lighter soils is a distinct
advantage. But with present-day varieties the
necessity of heavy soil to ensure success is not so
marked, as even on very light soils, well manured,
excellent results can he obtained.

The Flower Garden.

Stocll Plants of tender subjects should be lilted
as soon as there is danger from frost, and after
potting should be well watered in. Though it may
not be necessary to place them in the houses at
once, they should be placed in the frames or under
a temporary shelter, removing them to the houses
as soon as the more particular occupants have been
allotted their various positions for the winter.

Clearing the Beds. — Presuming that the weather
conditions are such that it is not advisable to leave
the occupants of the beds out any longer, a com-
mencement should be made to clear them, and,
where spring bedding is practised, the sooner
the better, as bulbs and other plants employed
do all the better if they are planted fairly early.
This double planting (for a spring and a summer
show) takes a great deal out of the soil, and I find
it best to maniu'^' in the .lutumu rather than the
spring.

Plants Under Glass.

Salvia splendens. — This showy subject should
be housed at imee, giving the plants as much room
as possible between them, or they are apt to draw
up rather quickly. The latest batch which may
have had the points of the shoots removed recently
might still be left out under a temporary shelter,
but as they are easily damaged by frost, no undue
risks should be taken. Plenty of water will be
required after housing, and one or two feedings of
artificial manure will, or should, ensure good
flower-sp'ikes.

Zonal Pelargoniums. — If not already housed,
these shoukl be put inside at once. Shelves or stages
near the glass are the best places for these plants.
The foliage this season is fairly hard or ripe,
and it may be advisable to spray between the pots
for a few 'days after housing, or a loss of foliage
may result from the drier atmospheric concUtions.
.Ml the light and air possible should be given these
plants, giving no fire-heat till frosts or extra cold
weather makes it a necessity, or until the presence
of the bloom makes it necessary to maintain a
drier atmosphere.

Azalea indica. — Those plants that may have
been removed outside to mature their wood should
be placed under cover again, giving the plants a
spraying with an insecticide to ensure they are free
of thrip. Careful watering is necessary during
the winter, and though they do not like an excess
of water, if once they become dry it will possibly
'residt in a great loss of foliage.

Primulas that may have been growing in cold
frames should be removed to pits or houses where
a little heat may be turned on during bad weather
or cold nights. The species P. nialacoides may still
be kept in a cold frame providing the weather
keeps dry, but too moist an atmosphere often
causes damping of the foliage, especially in large
plants.

The Kitchen Garden.

Late Potatoes that may still be in the ground
should be lifted at once, choosing a dry day for
the operation. Leave the tubers to dry as long .as
possible before storing. Where shed-rooui is
.available, they are best stored under cover, where
they can be picked over during bad weather.
Failing this, they should be pitted in as dry a
position as possible. In this latter case they must
be very carefully picked over in case of disease,
as they often rot wholesale if pitted without
very careful attention in this respect.

Spring Cabbage.— This is a very important
crop, and planting should be done at once, selecting
a piece of ground that has been well manured for
a previous crop. Light soil should be made
fairly firm before planting, or the soft growth made
on such soil may easily be damaged by frost later
in the season. The very early varieties need not
be planted too far apart, but rather mom space
should be allowed for the later varieties.

Hardy Fruit.

Root-Pruning. — As the bulk of the fruit is
gathered, attention should be paid to those trees
that are not fruiting satisfactorily, owing probabh'
to over-rampant growth. It is not of much use
pruning such trees, as the more one prunes, the
more rampant is the growth the following year ;
hence the necessity for root-pruning.

Large Trees should be taken in hand first ;
and though one often sees it advised to do one
side or half round the tree one season and the
other half the next, I do not believe in it. I
would rather sacrifice a crop ffir one year if it is
to ultimately result in good crops of fruit. The
only reason for doing it is because the tree is
not making sufficient fruiting wood, so there is
very little sacrifice, if any. By doing this early
and by getting well round and tmder the trees,
afterwards placing some good soil in close proximity
to the pruned roots and preserving as many of
the young fibrous roots as possible, the trees have
a chance of making quite a lot of yomtg roots
before the depth of winter, and so very little check
restUts except that less growth is made the following
season, which is the one object aimed at. Such
large trees sometimes need attention as regards
watering and mulching if a dry spring follows the
pruning, but otherwise I have always foimd them
to come through all right .

Smaller Trees and Cordons are very easily
manipulated, and in the case of the latter, young,
fast-growing trees should be taken out and replanted
every two or three years, and if this is done it will
be fotmd that the roots are almost as much under
control as those of pot trees.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)
Woburn Place Gafdcns, Addhstonc, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Planting Bulbs. — It is rather early yet to
remove bedding pUmts and commence what is
popidarly known as spring bedduig ; but wherever
bulbs are to be planted elsewhere, they should be
got in as soon as convenient. Cottage Tulips,
Danvm Tulips, and Spanish and English Irises
should all find a place in considerable quantity.
These should all be planted about three inches
deep, and they may all be planted at from 6 inches
to 9 inches apart. Where the soil is at all heavy,
it is worth while placing a trowelful of clean sand
round the bulbs of dear varieties.

Note-Taking. — Before the impressions of the
closing season fade from the memory, notes should
be taken of successes and failures, both as regards
varieties and their arrangement ; and however much
it may eventually be modified, a draft arrangement
for next season should be made. In the herbaceous
quarters, too, plants to be subsequently discarded
or shifted shotild be marked.

Protecting Dahlias. — In certain localities early
frosts, succeeded by a spell of mild weather, often
occur and destroy the Dahlias. If a piece of scrim
or other light material were thrown over them
when frost occurred, the blooming period might
be prolonged for several weeks yet.

Late Carnation Layers. — These should now be

severed from tlie parent plants and placed in their
winter quarters. It afforded the shelter of a light
to ward off soaking rains, it will be a gre.U advan-
tage. I favour potting them up, but if this is not
done, they should have some nice fibrous loam to
root into. Tins will tell at planting-time.

The Rock Garden.

Autumn Planting. — Any autumn planting
should nil longer be delayed. Evaporation is
slow noiv, aiul there is just time for the plants to
get rooted before winter sets in.

Preparations for Building. — Where it is intendfed

cither to extend the rock garden or to form a new
one, preparations must be made beforehand. The
procuring of stones is the first consideration, and
in dealing with this aspect of the work the welfare
of the plants should have precedence to mere
spectacular effect. Sandston* and limestone will
be found to be generally most suitable, but
sometimes one must build with the stones they
have. I recently utilised some disused concrete,
thickly studded with small stones, with good effect.
Soil is the next consideration, and medium loam
will suit the bulk of the plants, but peat and rotten
rock are also necessary where a varied collection
is to be grown.

Plants Under Glass.

Chrysanthemimis. — Feeding must still go on,
being required more than ever now. Disbudding
must also be carried on as the buds are fit for
handlmg, that is, when they are about the size
of Peas. Any late varieties which have not set
their buds should not be housed till they do so,
or they will most likely " go blind." Shoidd sharp
frost occur, lay the plants on their sides over-
night. They will stand several degrees of frost
in that position.

Salvia Heeri. — Those who possess a batch of
this attractive spring-flowering scarlet Salvia
should give it a light, airy position in the green-
house and continue to give it liquid manure twice
a week throughout the winter.

Bulbs for Forcing. — Batches of these should
be potted or boxed up, after which they should be
plunged in sand or ashes in a sheltered corner.

Shrubs for Forcing. — As soon as they come to
hand, these should be potted up and placed in a
cool structure. Place them in as small pots as
possible.

Fruits Under Glass.

Strawberries. — Some growers lay the pots on
their sides at this season to protect the plants
from heavy rains, while others house them in cool
structures. Those, however, who have experi-
mented in the matter have found that, other things
being equal, the best results have been obtained
from plants which have been plunged in the open
air in an upright position, and covered with lights
only during heavy rains.

Bottling Grapes. — This has no reference to the
modern system of bottling fruit by the sterilising
process. Where the house is wanted for plants,
the bunches can be cut with a piece of the branch
attached. This piece of branch should then be
inserted into the mouth of a bottle of water, a
nodule of charcoal having been placed in the water,
and the bottle adjusted on a shelf in a dry, cool
room at an angle so that the fruit will hang clear.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Root-Pruning. — This work, which was referred
to some weeks ago, should now be completed
without delay, so that young, fibrous roots may be
formed before winter sets in.

Purchasing. — Those about to plant will now
be selecting varieties — a very important step.
Growers of experience need no advice, and beginners
would do well to consult successful growers in
their own locality, as so much depends upon soil
and situation. For cooking Apples, however,
one cannot go far wrong with such varieties as
Early Rivers, Ecklinville, Lord Derby, Stirling
Casiie, Warner's King, Bramley's Seedling and
Lane's Prince Albert. For dessert purposes the
following are very reliable : James Grieve,
Worcester Pearmain, Allington Pippin and Cox's
Orange Pippin.

The Vegetable Garden.

Asparagus. — See that the beds are thoroughly
cleared of weeds, but do not cut over the plants
till they die down.

Brussels Sprouts. — Remove all decayed and
decaying leaves, so that the sprouts may enjoy
all the available air and light. Endeavour to utilise
the sprouts before they lose their solidity, which
the more precocious ones often do rather quickly.

Clearing Off Crops. — All sunmier crops should
be cleared away as soon as they are harvested.

Late Cauliflowers. — Varieties like Vcitdi's
Aulunm Giant and Sutton's Mammoth will be
proving useful. As they develop, break the leaves
over the curd to preserve its whiteness and to
protect it from frost. Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

October 4, 191 3]

THE GARDEN.

503

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
mudi" THE Uakues Jn'Iplid In all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter wfi'it tin- hranch rtf gardening may be, and
with that object mil make a special leature ol the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
etearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editou of The Gakiies, 20, TavUtock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a, separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be dearly numbered and securely
packeil in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
^rnall scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the PDlfLISIIEU.

FLOWER GARDEN.

NARCISSUS FLY (C. M. D.). — The t,Tubs attacking the
Narcissi are those of the Narcissus fly (Merodon equestris).
You will flud a aood deal of interestiUK and valuable infor-
tnation about this worst pest of the Narcissus in some
of our recent issues. If you can dig up and examine
the bulbs immediately, that will be the best measure to
pursue, destroyina all those affected. The lly appears
iu May, and may be cauaht in the manner described in
the articles referred to. You should notify the occurrence
of the pest to the Board of ACTiculture, WHlitehaU, S.W..
AS this is one of the scheduled pests, and failure to notify
renders one liable to a penalty. ^ *^ .*■ '.^^i

TWELVE SWEET PEAS FOR EXHIBITION (F. C.).—
It is really a ditJicult matter to five the names of the best
twelve varieties of Sweet I'eas, as these vary in different
localities and under varying weather conditions, but
the following list should supply your needs : Margaret
Atlee, Thomas Stevenson, King Edward Spencer, Walter
P. Wright, R. F. Felton. King Manoel, Edrom Beauty.
Elsie Herbert, Evelyn Hemus, John lugman, Elfrida
Pearson and Hercules. Others almost equally good
are Mrs. Cuthbertson, Sr.iriet Emperor, Princess Mary,
Mrs. Hardcastlo Sykes. r lich Taylor, Queen of Norway.
Prince George, i'lore' t e Wright Spencer, Rosabelle,
Barbara, Clara Curti and Lavender George Herbert.
Edrom Beauty and Barbara need shading to e-vhibit
in the best condition.

VIOLAS AND DAFFODILS IN ROSE-BED (Bedder).—
You may plant \'ittl;is hcnrath your bush and standard
Reses for the suiniiier iimnths, but it is advisable to
remove tkein in the autumn, in order that the soil may
■be rested during the winter. When a surface plant is
■used in this way, care must be taken to add new soil or
manure to the beds during the winter, in order that the
soil shall not lie unduly impoverished. We do not advocate
planting Daffodils in Rose-beds. They are deep-rooting
and rank-feeding subjects, and impoverish the ground
to some considerable extent. In the event of bulbotis
plants being required. Snowdrops or Chionodoxas should
be chosen ; but if Violas are to be used in the summer,
it would be better to confine your efforts to them. If
too much ;s attempted, the Roses will be sure to suffer
in the end.

SCENTED STOCKS (H. fl.l.^These sweet and popular
flowers may be divided into two types, winter and summer.
The former should be sown in late July, and planted out
in autumn to flower the fo}lowing summer. These go
by the name of Brompton or Intermediate Stocks, and
liometimes East Lothian. The other type is the summer
Stock, commonly called the Ten-week Stock, meaning
that it will flower within this time from the date of sowing
the seed. The seed of this should be sown early in April
in a frame on a fermented hot-bed with very slight heat,
transplanting as soon as large enough to handle into a
cold frame in light soil, 4 inches apart. Plant in their
summer - flowering quarters about the middle of May.
If you have not the convenience for sowing the seeds,
you can buy the plants of the coloius you prefer by
advertising in THE GARDEN.

PLANTS FOR SOUTH BORDER (Bosa).— Of the
subjects you have hitherto tried for the border, the Phloxes
and Gladioli were the least likely to give good results,
the former being of a moisture-loving nature, the latter
also requiring rather generous treatment. Even the
speciosum Lilies would have been happier in some shady
*pot ; hence the selection was rather at fault. You
might, however, try Liliuni candidum, the well-known
Madonna Lily, which delights in a warm position. As
it is so cheap and good, you might plant it throughout
the whole length of the border near the base of the wall
and in unmanured ground. It is a good time to plant it,
and if you secure the best bulbs, a flowering would be
assured in the coming year. Other Lilies not averse
to sun and warmth are testaceum, croceum and the sturdy
forms of umbellatum, any or all of which could be planted
freely in clumps of a dozen or more. For spring effect
you might iilant some of the more plentiful of the Daffodils,
as Emperor, Golden Spxu", Sir Watkin. Empress and
ornatus, and, to follow these, masses or groups of Spanish
Irises, which are very cheap by the hundred or thousand.

These would carry you into July, and if the border were
well dug and manured, save for the Madonna Lilies first
nieiitiniied, you might add hybrid Columbines, Del-
phiniums, Gaillardias, Heleniums of sorts. Aster .\mellus
in \ariely, .\. acris, Scduin spectabile atropurpurea and
other flowering plants that would continue the display
well into the autumn months. Y'ou might also invest
in " The Hardy Flower Book " (Jenkins), whicli gives
selections of plants for many positions. Such- a book
would afford you much reliable information. It may be
had from these offices, post free, for is. lOd.

DESMODIUM AND GDNNERA (./. W. il/.).— The
Desmodiuiii — provided the plant is not too large or old —
might be moved at any time within the next few weeks,
or be left until spring. Y'outhful specimens are not
difficult to re-establish, though older ones take less kindly
to the soil because of a sparsity of root-fibres. If you
have no special desire for disturbing the Gunncra, it
might be deeplv mulched in its present position. There
is no need for disturbing the undug ground, as the roots
will quicklv ramify into the new soil and afford support
to the plant. The mulching could be done without
in the least damaging the roots of the plant, whereas to
dig among them would cause much mutilation. In
your district lifting and dividing might be done at once,
while in colder parts of the country these operations are
best deferred till spring. As the plant appears to be doing
uncommonly well, it is advisable, we think, to let well
alone.

of the soil for the purpose. This is very poisonous, cvil-
smelling and explosive ; but the plants will not be likely
to bo injured unless the liquid comes into actual contact
with a root, when that will suffer.

FIXING A CHRYSANTHEMUM SPORT (J. J.).—
Cuttings should be encouraged, or the shoot which has
produced the yellow flowers, by pinching off further buds,
if any, and by keeping the plant in a favourable position
in the greenhouse. The resultant shoots from the upper
part of the plant should then be large enough to be taken
off as cuttings. In all probability each shoot will have a
tiny bud, which should be pinched off before the cutting
is inserted. It is impossible to say whether the suckers
from the plant will reproduce the sport, but it will cer-
tainly be worth your while to put them in and keep the
plants separate from the others.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

CLEMATIS FOR NAME AND TREATMENT (TT. D.).—
The siieeiiiieii No. 9 sent for name is Clematis Viticella.
The growths made tins vear should be cut hard back in
February. Ju.st how hard back will depend on whether
you wish the plant to increase in size and cover more space,
in which case you need only cut back the young growths
to hard, firm stems.

EVERGREEN SHRUBS FOR A SHADY PLACE
(Bedder). — It is of little use planting shrubs beneath
the branches of a Beech tree, as the shade is too dense
to allow of anything thriving satisfactorily in such a
position, .ibout the outskirts of a tree however, the
following evergreens are likely to give satisfactory results :
Common Hollv, .\ucuba japonica, common lAiirel.
Berberis Aquifo'lium, Tree Ivies and Berberis stcnophylla.
The ground should be well worked and the Beech roots
cut back beyond the edge of the area to be dealt with,
in order that the shrubs may have every possible assist-
ance towards establishing themselves quickly.

TREATMENT OF HEDGE (Broadgates). — Your Thorn
hedge could be improved by layering, that is, chopping
the branches more than halfway through near the base
and bending them over almost horizontally, securing
them in position by means of strong stakes. This method
of dealing with old hedges is more frequently practised
in some counties than in others, and is very popular in
Worcestershire. Not only do the layered branches
grow again, but a good deal of young wood is made from
below the cuts, which results, in about two years' time,
in a strong hedge. When layering is practised, the branch
system is reduced considerably at the same time, both
for appearance and so that there shall not be too great
a strain upon the partly-severed branches. A Holly
hedge would be preferable to Laurel in the position you
mention, but Laurel wotUd grow into a hedge in about
one-fourth the time which the Holly would take. Provid-
ing the work is done at once, either Holly or Laurel could
be planted ; otherwise, should Holly be selected, the work
had better remain until the iruddle of next ,\pril. Laurels
may, however, be planted at any time when the weather
is open throughout the winter. Do not select very large
plants. You will find that the smaller plants establish
themselves more quickly than large ones, and form a better
hedge in the end.

THE GREENHOUSE.

ANTS IN GREENHOUSE (R. B. C.).— Trace the ants
to their nests and pour boiling water upon them. Cflrbon
bisulphide may also be used with advantage.

PELARGONIUMS (Ignoramus). — The Pelargoniums have
been attacked by some .sucking insect, probably mealy bug.
They will most likely produce healthy young growths now ;
but if not, spray with Quassia and soft soap.

NERINES NOT FLOWERING (A. S.).— -According to
your report of the treatment given the plants, they should
have flowered well. The roots may possibly be at fault,
in which case shake out the plants and repot at once,
following in this and consequent respects the advice
given by Jlr. Elwes.

CARNATIONS IN WINTER {Frcstbury).—\n order to
flower Perpetual-flowering Carnations in winter, a mini-
mum temperature of 45° to 50% with a light, buoyant
atmosphere, must be maintained. They may, however,
pass the winter safely in your pit, provided the weather
is not too severe and that "the watering is earefiUly done ;
but under these conditions you cannot expect flowers
till the advent of more genial weather.

CYCLAMENS INJURED {Dun.f).— The maggots attack-
ing the roots of the Cvclamen are no doubt those of the
Vine weevil (Otiorbynchus siilcatus). The beetles which
lay the eggs are common in early summer, and a consider-
able variety of greenhouse plants are subject to the attacks
of the pest. We think the best plan would be to shake
the plants out and pick out the grubs ; but if it is desired
to treat them in the pots, then the only thing likely to
do any good will be to pour a few drops of carbon bi-
sulphide into the pots, making a hole about half the depth

ROSE GARDEN,

ROSE DOROTHY PERKINS CANKERED (E. P.

Campbell). — There is no known remedy save cutting away
the atfected growths. If you discard the old wood pretty
freely, you will not be troubled much with the disease.
You might give the soil a dressing of lime in the winter.

ROSES FOR EXPOSED POSITION (Mi.s.s McN.).—
If you wish for a very strong grower, we suggest Conrad
F. Meyer or Nova Zembla. These are Hybrid Rugoaa
Roses, and are very beautiful. Others of the same race,
rather less vigorous, but yet quite suitable for your
purpose, arc Blanc Double de Coubert, Rose ii parfum
de THav and Mrs. A. Waterer. Other fine Roses would
be Lady Waterlow, Sarah Bernhardt, Mme. Wagram
and Florence H. Veitch.

ROSES AND CLEMATISES (BeiJder).— You will probably
And Irish Glory the most suiUble Rose to match Irish
Elegance and Irish Beauty. Its colour is hardly what
you desire, however, the description being " silvery pink,
flamed on the back of the petals with crimson," rather
than deep crimson. It is very like Irish Elegance in shape
and free-flowering qualities. Good kinds of Clematis
to suit your purpose are C. Jackmanii superba, purple ;
C. Ville de Lyon, ■ armine-crimson ; C. Queen Alexandra,
mauve; and'C, Jackmanii alba, white.

PREPARING A BED FOR ROSES (Pan).— You could
not do better than add a good dressing of lime or
powdered chalk. This wii' -wceten the soil and at the
same time drive out the slags. Dig the soil 3 feet deep,
working in plenty of good manure and lime, the latter
at the rate of 8oz. per square yard, or, if you can obtain
chalk easier, this at the rate of 31b. to a square yard.
If you use lime, it should be slaked, then evenly distributed
and well incorporated with the soil. By preparing the
bed at once it would be ready for planting the Roses in
November, which is a much better time than the spring.

RUST ON ROSE LEAVES (H. IF. S.).— The Roses
arc attacked by the Rose rust fungus (Phragmidium
Bubcorticatum). We doubt whether spraying at this
season of the year will do much good, or whether the
attack now will do much barm, but as the fungus over-
winters on the fallen foliage, it would be a means of pre-
vention of damage to the shoots to collect and burn the
leaves as they fall. This may be supplemented by spraying
with a rose red solution of potassium permanganate in
the spring if the rust should reappear. As it so frequently
attacks wild Roses, it is practically impossible to get
rid of it entirely.

THE BEST NOVELTIES INTRODUCED IN 1912 (Trent
Bridge). — We are glad to know that the information
we gave you last vear has proved satisfactory to you.
The following we can thoroughly recommend as being
good all-round Roses : British Queen, Comtesse F. Hoyos,
C. W. Cowan, Duchess of Sutherland, Earl of Gosford,
Frau Ob. Piecq, General Superior ^ Janssen, George
Dickson, Geoffrey Hcnslow (Hybrid Perpetual), Geoffrey
Henslow (Hybrid Tea), Louise C. Breslau, King George V.,
Mme. C. Lutand, Mme, C, Charabard, Mme, E. Rostand,
Maman Turbat, Mrs. U. Baillic, Jlrs. Frank Bray, Mrs.
Gordon Sloane, Mrs. H. Hawksworth, Mrs. Sam Ross,
Mrs. Wallace H, Howe, Ophelia, St, Helena, Sunburst,
Sodenia, Tito Uekckyan and Verna McKay,

SELECTION OF ROSES (C, A. J. D.). — As you have
such a good collection, you caimot do better than add
the following : Reds— George Dickson, President Vignet,
Earl of Gosford, Edward Mawley, Mrs, Walter Easlea
and Prince C. d'Arenberg. Yellows — Sunburst, Mme
C. Lutand, Lady Greenall, Paula, Alice de Rothschild
and Cis.sie Easlea. Other colours — British Queen, Mrs. W.
Christie ittiller, Mrs. Charles E, .Allan, Jlrs, WaU,ace H. Rowe,
Countess of Shaftesbury and Willowmere, Add some
good top soil from a meadow and bury the turf, A good
supply of spent Hops would be useful, and give a handful
of bone-flour to each plant as you plant it. Feed lu
summer with fish guano, very moderately, until the plants
are established, but liberally to the older plants.

ROSE BABY DOROTHY (H. /,),— We believe there
is no relationship between this Rose and Dorothy Perkins,
Its correct name is .Maman Levavasseur, and was a seed-
ling from Mme, N. Levavasseur, we think. It has been
superseded now by such Roses as Orleans, The Dwarf
Polyantha Roses originated by crossing Rosa Polyantha
simplex with a Tea Rose, the first variety raised being
Ma Paquerette, Now, of course, novelties are raised
by crossing the various kinds together, although some
were raised by crossing the Climbing Multifloras with
other climbing Roses, For instance, Eugenie Lamesch
originated from Aglaia crossed with William Allen Richard-
son and Mme, Norbert Levavasseur, from which such
as Mrs, Cutljush and Orleans Rose have originated, was
produced by crossing Crimson Rambler with the Dwarf
Polyantha Gloire des Polyantha.

504

THE GARDEN.

[October 4, 1913.

SELECTION OF ROSES {A, W. F-).—Wc gladly comply
with your request, and from a decorative point of view,
or, rather, as parden Roses, we should place the varieties
yoti name in the followina order of merit : Chateau de
Clos Vougeot, Edward Mawley, Lady Pirrie. Lieutenant
Chaure, George C. Waud, Kayon d'Or, Molly Sharman
Crawf.-Td, Mrs. D. .Tardine, Beaut(^ tie Lyon, Enrl of
Warwick. Princer.s^ Mertchersky, Souvenir de M. de
Znyao, Lcc^lie Holland, General Sohablikine and Mme.
C. Soupcrt. George Dickson is a grand Rose, but we
take it this magnificent variety will bo more in demand
ns a sliow flower. It is certain, however, that everyone
will want to possess it. A few first-class recent Rose?
are Lady Greenall, Melody, May Miller, Countess of
Shaftesbirry, Ro^e Queen. Mayflower, Nathalie Bottner,
Mr?. George Shawyer, l<'!nrence HasweU Veitcli, Cissie
Easlea, Willowmere, Ophelia, Louise Catherine Breslau,
British Queen, Bertha Gaulais and Sunburst. This latter
has been splendid lately. It is a "great " Rose in spite of
its tendency to produce pale blooms at times. The
botanical name of the Christmas Tree or common Spruce
Fir is Abies excelsa.

FRUIT GARDEN.

SILVER-LEAF ON PLUM TREE {Whiteho use). —The
leaves of the Plum sent are attacked by the silver-leaf
disease. The shoot on which these leaves occur should
be cut out and burned, but it may be well to leave it
till next year to see whether it recovers, as it has been
bearing well this season. If not , destroy it at once. No cer-
tain cure is known for this disease, which is of fungus origin.

SCALE ON PEACH LEAVES (Peach Tree).— The Peach
foliage has been very badly attacked by the Peach scale
insect and by red spider. Spray the trees now with
a solution of potassium sulpliide. ioz. to three gallons of
water, or, if in a house or case, fumigate twice at an
interval of three days. In winter thoroughly cleanse
the trees and the walls, removing all the scale insects
completely.

PLUM RUST (M. R. P.).— The Plum tree is attacked
by the Plum rust fungus. Pnccinia pruni. This fundus,
like many of the otlier rust fungi, passes part of its life-
history on Plums, part, in the spring of the year, on
Anemone?. It forms little cups on the foliage of the
latter, scattered in close groups and filled with spores.
These spores spread the disease to the Plum. The removal
of all Anemones from the neighbourhood of the Plums
would probably reduce the trouble. If this cannot be
done, it would he well to spray the trees with amraoniacal
copper carbonate at fortnightly intervals, beginning at
the end of May.

ORCHARD TREES NOT DOING WELL (Hortus).—
What you propose to do is on sound lines and excellent.
The trenching and clearing of the surface of the ground
of the turf over the roots of the trees alone must greatly
benefit them. The following formula of artificial manures
for apples. Plums and Pears is by Mr. Edmund Tonks,
and is, we believe, scientifically correct and excellent ;
Superphosphate of lime, 121b. ; nitrate of potash, 101b. ;
chloride of soda, 41b. ; sulphate of magnesia, 21b. ;
sulphate of iron. lib. ; and sulphate of lime, 81b. This
should be well mixed together and applied at the rate
of a quarter of a pound to the square yard. We presume
you wish to have an artificial manure more particularly
to mix with the soil while trenching proceeds. Perhaps
the following would suit you better (it is effective, we
know), reserving the other formula for annual top-
dressings : X21b. of superphosphate of lime and 121b.
of kainlt. Add 4oz. to each square yard, mixing it with
th'? soil as trenching proceeds.

APPLES TRAINED ON WIRE TRELLIS {WirsweU).—
In the first place, the varieties of Apples, of which you
sent us such fioor samples, are more subject to attacks
from red spider than are most other sorts. The foliage,
W'^ find, is badly infested with red spider and American
blight. In the second place, red spider is very prevalent
this year, on Apples especially, on account of the long
drought from which we have suffered. You do not say
how near the trellis is to the boarding. Jf it is, say,
within 3 inches or 4 inches, then we think there is some
truth in what you say as to the boards having something
to do with the failure, not because they are creosoteA
particularly, but because there is not a sufficiently free
circulation of air among the branches, causing the air
to become too hot. Apples never succeed well when
trained against walls or fences. The position is too hot
and the circulation of air too restricted for them. The
trellis should be at least 6 inches or 7 iiiehes from the
fence for Apples. Pears and Plums will stand the heat
and confinement better. The Apples, we think, would
do better without the fence, leaving only the wire fence,
converting it into an espalier tre]li=. Other causes may be
responsible, such as the soil being too poor or light,
the border too dry, or the croppinii too heavy. You
can do nothing to the trees now to rid them of spider
and the blight except to burn all the affected leaves
as they fall, and towards the end of November or early
in December, after the trees are pruned (burn the prunings),
they should be sprayed with the following mixture (called
the" Woburn Winter Wash): Soft soap, half a pound;
paraffin, 5 pints ; caustic soda, 21b. ; and water,
91 gallons. This wash will thoroughly cleanse the trees
of ail pests or growth of any kind with which they may
be infested. The way to prepare it is to dissolve the
soap in warm water, churn the paraffin into it, and then
shake in the caustic soda, mixing the whole well together
and applying it with a syringe or garden engine. The
hands and clothes must be protected at the time of using
it, as it is of a burning nature. The mixture must be kept
churned while it is being applied, to keep the paraffin in
solution.

PEACH TREE UNSATISFACTORY (Anxious).— It
difficult to understand the cause of failure in the
cropping of your Peach tree. Your inside border is
narrow. Are you quite satisfied that the roots have
not suffered from the want of water at any time ? The
trouble, we feel sm-e, arises from the tree having received
a check of some sort, which atfected adversely the functions
of the fruit-buds and flowers, ending in imperfect fertili-
sation of the flowers ; hence failure in proper fruit-setting.
Never let your tree approach to dryness at the roots,
winter or summer. Take a lesson from trees growing
outside, which are often sodden in many winters and
are certainly never dry. These seldom or ever drop
their fruit. Are you careful to keep your tree as cool
as possible during the winter, or is the house subject to
fluctuations of temperature y This will often accoimt
for such failures. Keep your tree as cool as possible,
with plenty of air on the house day and night in favour-
able weather, and let the tree come into bloom naturally
without any forcing or excitement. Widen your inside
border by 18 inches. Examine the roots in front of the
border when they are exposed, and shorten the ends of
each. If there are any long, fibreless ones, cut them
well back to within 3 feet of their base. Peach trees are
often much benefited by root-pruning. We should
certainly not destroy the tree. It should go on improving
for another twenty years. The following is a good Peach
soil : To one barrow-load of good fibrous loam inclining
to be of a heavy nature add 21b. of Thomson's or some
other approved artificial manure, a gallon of lime, a peck
of brick-ends, broken small (size of a hen's egg), and the
same of mortar rubble, broken small. The loam should
be broken up with the hands into pieces the size of one's
fist, and all mixed well together.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

MANURE FOR CABBAGES (R. E. C.).— Use farmyard
manure in preparing the ground. When fear of serious
frost is past and the Cabliages begin their spring growth,
apply nitrate of soda at the rate of Ioz. to the square
yard.

INJURY TO LETTUCE (A. P.).— The Lettuce is attacked
by the root aphis, which is often abundant on this plant,
especially in dry seasons. Watering with soot-water
may do some good, or you might fork in a little Apterite
or "Vaporite or some other naphthalene preparation to
drive away the insects.

MISCELLANEOUS.

STANDARDS AND HALF-STANDARDS IN FOLKE-
STONE (./. E.). — You do not say whether youmeanKosesor
fruit trees. If the sod is very sandy where you are.
neither would do well unless good loam were carted for
them. Apart from soil, and possibly wind, we do not
see why standards of either Roses or fruit trees should
not do in the district.

CREEPER FOR LOW BRICK WALL (A. H. R.).—
Eseallonia niacrantha is as pretty as anything for a wall
such as yours, and it can be kept to any height required
by clipping or cutting it back. E. exoniensis or E.
philippiana is also pood. C'eanothus Gloire de Versailles
kept to the height desired is also pretty. If you care to
form pockets on tlie face of the wall, you might have
some of the trailing alpines, such as Dianthuses, Helianthe-
mums. Campanulas, Arenarias and Androsace lanuginosa,

SIBERIAN CRAB AND OTHER QUESTIONS (F. B.).—
You may move your Siberian Crab tree as soon as the
leaves have fallen. Providing the work is carried out
carefully, the tree will not suffer. Y'our Carnations are
evidently suffering from a fungous disease, but it was
impossible to judge satisfactorily from the specimen sent.
The shoots have probably been injured by wireworms.
These may be trapped by burying Potatoes in the soil
to a depth of 3 inches and examining them every second
day. The only way to eradicate earwigs is to trap them.
This may often be done by placing a little hay in fiower-
pots and inverting the pots on stakes from 2 feet to 4 feet
high . The Rose sent for determination is apparent ly
Auguste Barbier. We are at a loss to account for the
flowers becoming deformed. As you suggest, the cold
spring may have had something to do with it.

NAMES OF FRUIT.— To((/e.—Mank's Codiin. A. R.

Strickland. — 2 and 3. Hawthornden ; 4. 5 and 11, Welling-
ton ; 6, Braddick's Nonpareil ; 7, Ribston Pippin ;
H, Bismarck ; 9. rotten when received ; 10. Cox's Orange

Pippin. W. B. — 1. Tower of Glamis ; 2, Adam's

Pearmain ; 3. Fearn's Pippin ; 4, Cellini Pippin.

E. P. — 1, Cox's Pomona ; 2, Lane's Prince Albert : 3,
King of the Pippins ; 4, Cellini Pippin ; 5. Lady Sudeley ;
6, Reinette du Canada ; 7, Hawthornden : 8. Cox's Orange
Pippin ; 9, Wellington,

NAMES OF PLANTS. — Enquirer, Stamford. — 1,
Teucrium montanuni ; 2, Dianthus sinensis variety.
J. G. iV. — 1, Polygonum amplexicaule ; 2, Cam-
panula punctata ; 3, Hibiscus syriacus ; 4. Linaria
purpurea.— — -S. M., Southburn. — Pentstemon barbata ;

Rosa Polyantha variety. Rev. H. J. De 6'.— Cupressus

macrocarpa. W. Datvson. — 1, Sutherlandia frutescens ;

2. Gotoneaster microphylla ; 3, Pernettya mucronata ;
4, Berheris stenophylla ; 5, Eseallonia species ; 6,
Cotoneaster horizontaiis ; 7, Olearia Haastii ; 8, Aucuba

japonica. H. N. — a, Lilium auratum ; B and C,

varieties of Lilium speciosum ; D, too poor to identify.

K. J., Balham. — The peculiar growths on the Juniper

branch are abnormal fruits. The shrub sent for determi-
nation is Ledum palustre. M. R. H. .4//(?n.— Azara

microphylla. Moss. — Azolla caroliniana. Ida H.

Jackson. — a, Festuca ovina vivipara ; B, Lycopodium
alpinum. Parley. — Senecio tunguticns.

SOC I ETI ES.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S FRUIT SHOW.

TUE nineteenth autumn show of British - grown fruits
was held on September 25 and 26 at Vincent Square,
Westminster. The exhibition was notable for the high
standard of quality among the Apples, which, although
not so highly coloured as in some years, were clean and well
finished. Pears, however, were somewhat scarce, but this
was in some measure compensated for by the keen com-
petition in the Apple classes. The indoor fruit was of
very high quality, the Grapes in particular being fine and
well finished.

Division I. — Frcits Grown Under Glass or
Otherwise.
Open to Gardeners and Amateurs Only.
The first prize silver cup for a collection of nine dishes-
of ripe dessert fruit was secured by the Duke of Newcastle
(gardener. Mr. G. Barker), Clumber, Worksop, with a weil-
finished collection of ripe and highly-coloured fruit, consist-
ing of two bunches of Grapes Muscat of Alexandria and the
same of Madresfield Court. Pears were well represented
by splendid dishes of Pitmaston Duchess and Durondeau ;
Melon by Emerald Gem, Apples by Cox's Orange Pippin and
King of Tompkins' County, and two excellent di?hes of
Peaches by Barrington and Nectarine Peach. Second, Lady
Henry Somerset (gardener, Mr. G. Mxdlins). Eastnor
Castle. Ledbury, who also staged a most creditable display,,
the Black Hamburgh Grapes being large in both bunch
and berry and perfect in colour. The other varietie?
shown were Apples Cox's Orange Pippin and Rival,
Pears Mamuerite Marillat and Doyenn6 du Cornice.
Peach Devonia and Melon Countess. Third , the Earl of
Harrington (gardener. Mr. J H. Goodacre). Elvaston Court,,
who also staged a very choice collection, including a dish
of Pineapple Nectarine.

Lord Hillingdon (gardener. Mr. J. Sheiton) Sevenoaks^
Eent, succeeded in taking the first prize and silver
cup for a collection of six dishes of ripe dessert fruit.
The Grapes were of the highest quality, and all other
kinds well grown and highly-coloured specimens, the-
varieties being Grapes Muscat of Alexandria and Muscat
Hamburgh, Peach Lady Palmerston, Apple Cox's Orange
Pippin. Fig Negro Largo, and a seedling Melon. Lord
Bclper (gardener, Mr. W. H. Cooke), Kingston Hall,
Derby, was a good second, the varieties staged consisting
of Grapes Gros C^olmar and Muscat, of Alexandria, Melon
Hero, Peach Sea Eagle, Apple Cox's Orange Pippin, and
Pear Louise Bonne Jersey. C. A. Cain, Esq.. J. P.
(gardener, Mr. T. Pateman) Welwyn, was awarded third
in thi^ class.

The class for six varieties of G.^apes. two bunches of each,
probably created the greatest int .-est of the whole show, as^
thegroup which won the first prize and silver cup (see illus-
tration) for the Duke of Newcastle, contained two mag-
nificent bunches of Gros Guillaume, which received the
admiration and highest praise from every visitor to the show.
The bunches were not only large in point of size, but also
in berry, the whole being beautifully coloured and well
finished. The other varieties shown in this exhibit
were Black Hamburgh. Madresfield Court, Gros Colmar,.
Muscat of Alexandria and Buckland Sweetwater, all of
splendid quality and finish. The Earl of Hairington came
second with some smaller but well-finished bunches of
Muscat of Alexandria and Golden Queen, representing the-
white Grapes; and Madresfield Court, Gros Maroc, Muscat
Hamburgh and Black Hamburgh. The third prize in
this class was won by C. Bayer. Esq. (gardener. Mr. E. C.
Wickens). Tewkesbury Lodge. Forest Hill, S.E.. who-
showed a most worthy collection.

In the class provided for two bunches of Grape Black
Hamburgh, the first prize was awarded to Lord Hillingdon
for two well-finished bunches : second. Lady Henry
Somerset ; third, the Duke of Newcastle.

H. St. Maur. Esq. (gardener, Mr. G. Richardson), Newton
Abbot, was successful in gaining first prize for two splen-
did bunches of Mrs. Pince, the second prize falling to Lady
Henry Somerset, who also obtained flist for two large
and well-finished bunches of Black Alicante, the Marquis
of Salisbury (gardener, Mr. H. Prime). Hatfield House,
comiuff second with some good bunches, and W. G. Raphael,
Esq. (gardener, Mr. H. H. Brown), Castle Hill. Engle-
field (Jreen, tliird.

The Duke of Newcastle gained the leading honours for
two bunches of lUatlresfleld Court, the second and third
prizes going to the Earl of Harrington and Lord Hillingdoa
in their respective order of merit.

The first prize for two bunches of Grape Prince of Wales
was won by Sir Walpole Greenwell. Bart, (gardener,
Mr. W. Lintott). Marden Park, C'aterham, this being the
only prize awarded in this class.

For two bunches of any other black Grape, Lady Henry
Somerset took the premier position with Gros Maroc,.
the second being awarded to Colonel the Hon. C. Harbord
(gardener, Mr. W. Allan). Gunton Park, Norwich, with
the same variety, and third to the Marquis of Salisbury
with Appley Towers.

Sir Edward Durning-Lawrence, Bart, (gardener, Mr. W.
Lane). King's Ride. Ascot, secured the first prize and silver
Knightian medal for two bunches of Muscat of Alexandria,
Colonel the Hon. C. Harbord coming .second, and G.
Miller, Esq. (gardener, Mr. J. Kidd), Newberrics, Radlett,
Herts, third.

In the class for two bunches of any other white Grape,
the Duke of Wellington, K.G. (gardener. Mr. A. G. Nicholls),
Stratfleldsaye. won first place with the second largest
bunches in the show, which were well finished and of good
quality, the varietv being Calabrian Raisin. C. A. Cain,
Esq., 'J.P., followed with Lady Hutt ; and H. W.
Henderson, Esq. (gardener, Mr. F. L. Pike), King's
Langley, third with Foster's Seedling.

,g^ag,^€^

inw^

GARDEN.

-y^-

fS\}^

No. 2186.— Vol. LXXVII.

October ii, 1913.

CONTENTS.

NOTKS OF THK W'EKK
CORFF.SPONDENCK

Rnse Irish Elefianee
in Scotland . . . .

Gypsophila liolitfjokii

Outdoor Fij^s . .

Campanula fragilii^

Rose-buds dropping

off

Foithcoming events , .
The improvement of

garden Roses . .
Designing a Rose gar-
den

A suburban Rose

garden

Rose Fortune's Yellow

at Locking)' . .
Rose species or wild

Roses ; Their use in

the garden
Hints on standard

Roses

CoioBRED Plate

Single and semi-
double Roses

507
507
507
507

SQ7
307

.'i07

.508

509

510

510

512

512

Rose Bennett's Seed-
ling 5i;!

On scented Roses .. 514

Rose Cherrj' Page . . 514

Roses for liedding . . 515

Roses to grow as large
shrubs 515

The best Roses for
pergolas 516

In u Hampshire gar-
den 517

New Rose Mrs. James
Lynas(H.T,) .. 518

The best Roses for
pegging down . . 518

Gardening for Beginners
Pergolas, trellises
and archi's for

Roses 519

How to retain soil

moisture . . . . 519

GARDKNlNa OF THE WEEK

For Southern gar-
dens . . .... .5-20

For ^orthern gar-
d''us 520

ILiIiUSTRATIONS.

Rose-growers of bj'gone days

Plan of a Rose garden with Lily pool in the centre. .
The Rose garden at The Lodge, Surbiton Hill, Surrey
A cluster of white blooms of Rosa Dupontii. .

The Ayrshire Rose (Rosa arvensis)

Rosa tomentosa, a British species with pink flowers. .

The Musk Rose (Rosa moschata)

Rosa soulieana, from China

A bed of standards of Rose Florence Pemberton

Single and semi-double Roses Coloured

Rose Bennett's Seedling at Berkhamsted

A basket of Rose Cherry Page

A bed of La France and Caroline Xestout Ro.ses
Borders of light-coloured Roses at r-ulwieh
The new gold medal Rose .Mrs. James Lynas . .

Part of a bed of Rose Lady Waterlow

■A rustic Rose arch of good proportions

506
508
509
510
510
511
511
511
512

plate
51:i
514

. 515
515
516
518
519

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, iirticfes and notes,
but he tinll not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
cotiXributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
ftsks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or oumer of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor trill not be responsiblr for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the reeeipt ol a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

October Roses. — .-Kpart fn.ni such Polyantha
Roses as Jessie, Orleans and Katherine Zeimet,
which are always good in autumn, many of the
Hybrid Teas and peimetianas are this year flower-
ing well later than usual. Marquise de Sinety,
Duchess of Wellington, Mme. Leon Pain, Pharisaer,
Gloire de Dijon, Mrs. A. Munt, Mme. Ravary,
Betty. Konigin Carola, Souvenir de Stella Gray,
Rayon d'Or and Mrae. Abel Chatenay are a few
that have particularly good flowers on them as
we are going to press.

A Handsome Knotweed. — This fam.ily of plants

oontaius mans- he;uititul species, from dwarf alpine
ones, 3 inches to 4 inches high, to the tall Poly-
gonum sachalinense and the climbing V. haldschu-
anicum, 12 feet to 20 feet high ; but the most
ornamental one flowering now is the many-spiked
Knotweed, P. polystachyum, with its panicles of
pinkish white flowers. Either in a mass by itself,
where it makes a very bold display, or in the
herbaceous border it is a ver\' ornamental subject,
and it will give an annual display with little
attention.
Protecting Christmas Roses. — The original

Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger) does not bloom
till the Christmas season, but H. n. altifolius,
also known as maximus and major, a variety in
every way superior to the type, often begins to
flower early in October, and goes on for a long
period. Although quite hardy, the blooms come
a purer white and are immune from dirt if pro-
tected by a light frame, .\bundance of air should
be admitted, however, and a good plan is to tilt
up the frame by placing a brick under it at each
corner.

Flower Garden Combinations. — Those who

seek to produce great flower contrasts in the garden
should make note of two plants which by reason
of habit and the merit of profuse as well as abundant
flowering would appear well suited for purposes
of display. The plants we have in mind are the
brilliant scarlet Salvia Glor\' of Zurich and the
pure white Anemone-flowered Marguerite, better
known perhaps as Chrysanthemum Mrs. Sander.
For effective work it may not be necc-sary to mix
the two or even to border the one with the other,
a better way being, perhaps, to plant a bed of
each in near proximity, and so mirror into greater
purity or brilliance the finer attributes of these
unique subjects.
A Pretty October-Flowering Shrub. — The

fine mild weather of the last fortnight has been
very favourable for the late-flowering Lespedeza
Sieboldii. At its best, with tall, slender stems
4 feet to 5 feet long, each terminating in a large
inflorescence, it is particularly attractive, for there
are very few shrubs flowering in October. L.
Sieboldii is a native of North China and Japan.
During most winters the young growths are killed

to the ground, but, even if only the ends ae."
damaged, it is worth while cutting the stems down
to obtain the vigorous young growths which push
up from the base. The leaves are trifoliate, the
flowers, which are very freely produced, being
rosy purple, borne on long-branched terminal
panicles. Unfortunately, this plant has several
ssmonyms, a favourite nurserj' name being Lespedeza
bicolor. while another is Desmodium pendiilifloriun

Increasing the Double-Flowering Arabis. —

The double-flowering Arabis is too well known
to need any recommendation for spring bedding,
but many people annually go to the trouble of
propagating it from cuttings. This is quite un-
necessary, for pieces taken from the old plants
now and dibbled in the beds or borders where
they are required to bloom will be found to make
good plants and flower much freer than those
raised fnun cuttings,

A Late-Flowering Shrub (or a Sheltered
Corner. — One of the most showy of late-flowering
shrubs is Clerodendron foetidum, or C. Biuigei
as it is sometimes callerl and although it is not a
hardy shrub — for seld'>ra in the open does it stand
the winter without dying back like a herbaceous
plant — yet, if it is given the protection of a wall,
or, better still, the comer of two walls, it will make
a fine, handsome specimen. It is not essential
for it to have a south wall. The plant we have
in mind is growing in a corner with a north-east
aspect, and is 10 feet high. It quite fills up the
space, being 5 feet through, and is now laden
with dense terminal corymbs of rosy pink flowers.
It is well worth a place outside in such a position.
Other handsome, nearly hardy Clerodendrons are
C. trichotomum, with white flowers which are
a great contrast to the red inflated calyx, and its
variety Fargesii, which is more compact.

Ornamental Fruits in the Garden. — Certain

hardy trees and shrubs are this autumn bearing
an unusually heavy crop of fruits. Both as large
bushes in the open and as a climber trained to a
wall the branches of Pyracantha (Crataegus)
coccinea are laden with orange red berries. Unless,
however, the bushes are covered with nets, the
birds will secure most of the fruits by the end of
October. The Sea Buckthorn, Hippophae rham-
noides, with its grey. Willow-like leaves and orange-
coloured fruits weigh down the branches. Among
numerous attractive bushes of Cotoneasters, C.
frigida is the most conspicuous, with quantities
of red fruits. The Spindle Tree, Euonymus
europaeus, witli coral red fruits ; Berberis vulgaris,
the Common Barberry ; the waxy white fruits
of Symphoricarpus racemosus, the Snowberry ;
Pyrus Ringo, with golden yellow Crab-like fruits ;
the heavily-laden bushes of the Dog Rose, Rosa
canina, the large, scarlet red fruits of R. canina
subcristata in particular ; and the Cockspur Thorn,
Crataegus Crus-galli, with scarlet fruits and orange-
tinted foliage, each and all add to the interest
and attractive character of the garden in autumn.

506

THE GARDEN.

[OrxnnFR ii, iriio

CORRESPONDENCE.

{Thi' Editor Is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Crocus caspius. — This is in flower here now
(October 2) in a spot where it is established.
Corms transplanted this summer will not be out
just yet. It is one of the largest and finest of
the autumn-flowering species, pure white inside,
(he exterior of the petals pale mauve. Here we
find it a very free seeder, and I raise a number of
seedlings every year, which, however, do not flower
till three years old. Recently I have used the
pollen of C. hyemalis Foxii and one or two other
species on it, and am now awaiting with interest

exliibiticin fi-om the leading exhibitors of the
country. — Henry Merryweather, Southwell, Notts.
Saxifraga burseriana. — Really, since we are
all agreed as to how we each prefer to grow or not
to grow Saxifraga burseriana, it may well seem
waste labour to go on exchanging facts about
the plant against contradictions, no matter how
emphatic. At the same time, I cannot feel it
would be good for anybody if I acquiesced silently
in being given the lie with quite the candour
affected by Mr. Elliott. This great and earnest
man, in the ardour of dispute, has been misled by
analogy, that perilous charmer. He has seen
(from the train) sunlight streaming into the mouth
of the Salurn Klamm ; yes, indeed, so have I —
and felt it, too ! Now if drink streams into mv

aiesr"'

Stamliwj. lift to ri'jiil : Mr

UttU'i-, Mr. H. JMfnywcatkpr, Mr. Itlvi'in ; it'hcr tim ittjl Iniumt. .sitliH'/l: Mr
Mr. Ci;nr/cs Galer, Mr. B. II. Cant, Mr. Nevaril.

the flowering of what I trust will turn out to be
hybrids. — F. Herbert Chapman, Rye.

Rose-Growers of Bygone Days. — in the eariy

seventies — a time when great advance was made
in the introduction of new varieties of Roses —
Mr. Quilter of Aston Park, Binuingham, promoted
and held some first-class Rose shows, and one
condition was a £10 penalty if a grower entered
and did not exhibit. On one of those particular
occasions I well remember having a very enjoy-
able luncheon, when our old and esteemed friend,
the late Benjamin Cant, took the chair, and some-
one proposed that we should have our photograph
taken in a group, a copy of which may be of some
interest to your readers. I well remember we had
p fine meeting of all Rose-growers and a splendid

mouth or Mr. Elliott's, it streams into him or
me c.t hypothesi unless we reject it. But sun,
streaming into the mouth of a gorge, by no means
necessarily streams into the gorge itself. And
whereas the mouth of the Salurn Klamm can
indeed be seen from trains, and felt by closer inspec-
tion to be one of the hottest and most sun-flogged
places that an alpine afternoon or midday can
discover, the interior of the Klamm rejoices in
wholly different conditions, and may fairly be
described as a sunless gorge — not sunless, indeed,
as a cavern measureless to man, but sunless in only
having a brief and inconsiderable daily share
in that luminary. And it is significant that only
when you arrive at the Klause does the Saxifrage
begin to occur, quite refusing the more open and

torrid stretches at the mouth of the gorge ; not
only for this reason perhaps, but also because
that mouth is occupied by true, coarse scree.
With regard to the geological lecture administered
by Mr. Elliott, in the first place I think a closer
acquaintance with the fine silty ridges in the
shadowed interior of the Klamm would cause
Mr. Elliott to be less certain as to the origin ol
those banks ; in the second, whether washed
down by water or up by water, the soil there is
so unlike any other detritus — utterly different
from any — and so utterly alien from the coarse
composition of scree that it is only, and precisely,
comparable to the fine silts that lie in waving
ripples over the Forcella Limgieres or the Passo
delle Selle. Therefore in describing such for the
liorticultural benefit of those who have
not seen, or for those who have, but
forget, it is certainly allowable to paint
it as silt, even as even Mr. Elliott him-
self, I imagine, applies the word
"moraine" to a horticultural com-
pound which in reality has no relation
to the rounded, water-worn desolations
whose convenient name it bears, but is
in relation to the conditions of quite ,1
different deposit, the sharp and fertile
accumulations of fallen shingles on tlif
highest slopes and hollows (if I may be
allowed to use the word shingle with-
nut being told that it is only admissible
of Brighton Beach). Mr. Elliott, how^
ever, mistakes the reason why S. bur-
seriana grows in the fine silt of the
Salurn Klamm. It does not do so
because I say it, not even because 1
have said it twice ; but because I have
twice very carefully noticed and col-
lected it there so growing, and duly
record the fact for the interest of such
people as lay greater weight on re-
peated observation than on even the
most aquiline of glances cast from an
express train proceeding in full career
perhaps half a mile from even the en-
trance of the gorge (for such, I may
suppose, was the train that took Mr.
EUiott, or rather, as I had better say.
conveyed him). However, these are
unprofitable matters. Mr. Elliott re-
grets that he was unable to give me his
corroboration. Even had my records
stood in need of it, the blow of this
denial would still be softened to me by
Mr. Elliott's proper admission that his
remarks have to be conditioned by the
considerable qualification " as far as I
remember." Now, however far " I
remember " may go, such a recollec-
tion, dim I"' clear, of two or three seasons since
cannot well enter into competition with the actual
observation of the current year, deliberately
sought with an eye to getting the facts correct.
Therefore, for what the information may be worth
to the cultivator in the way of interest, it may
be taken that S. burseriana, in Nature, certainly
luxuriates in at least one famous station in fine
limy silt and in a shady gorge. In the Schlern
Klamm, " as far as I remember," the plant tends
to be more saxatile, as the gorge is wider, and
therefore less overshadowed by its walls ; while
on the Hoch Obir the minor form grows in enormous j
masses, on the under side principally, of turfy '
laps along the neck of the mountain, — Reginald
Farrer,

Bull,

October ii, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

507

Rose Irish Elegance in Scotland. — In common
with many uthiT-:, I have read with keen interest
the correspondence in the columns of The Garden
regarding this Rose, which I had not seen. It
was. therefore, with pleasure that I came across
several plants of it the other day in the gardens
of Lady Cathcart at Cluny Castle, Aberdeenshire,
while spending a holiday in that district. The
plants showed great vigour, and Mr. McLeod, the
head-gardener, told me that they had bloomed
very freely. There was sufficient bloom left to
show the true character of this beautiful Rose. —
Caledonia.

Gypsophila Rokejekii. — This is a tall, lax-
habited species well worth introducing into mixed
borders. The flowers are about the same size
as those of G. Stevenii, and pink. The lank stems,
if left to themselves, shoot up to proportions
far beyond what the amenities of present-day
gardening admits, and it is therefore essentia]
to cut each one as it attains the desired height,
which, as well as checking growth, causes the
laterals to spring out and form a somewhat bushy
plant. It flowers from the end of August till
the end of the floral season, and is easy to propagate
by seed— R. P. B.

Outdoor Figs. — With reference to the note in
The Garden of September 20, page 470, respecting
the above, it may interest some readers to know
that here on the southern border of Yorkshire we
have trees of Figs Brown Turkey and White Mar-
seilles growing on a south-east wall and yielding
good fruit. The soil in which the trees are growing
is of a sandy nature, and although this season
(and noticeably this district) has been excep-
tionally dry, no watering has been done. During
the winter the roots are heavily mulched and
the branches protected by mats ; but, apart from
this, no special treatment has been deemed neces-
sary. I may mention that the tree of Brown Turkey
is about twelve feet high and has a spread of
about twenty-five feet. — H. Turner, Serlby Hall
Gardens, Bawiry, Yorks.

Campanula Iragilis. — Mr. Amott writes of this
well-marked species on page 473 as being " ot
the same class as garganica," from which, of
course, it is most distinct. Indeed, the two plants
have nothing in common. C. garganica is of
almost mat like density, and provides an innumer-
able host of small, very starry flowers, while C.
fragilis is a comparatively sparse-growing plant,
the much larger flowers of saucer-like outline
totally unlike those of the other species named.
Hence one is a little puzzled by the remark. The
true C. fragilis is quite one of the most " touchy "
of its race, so much so that attempts to divide it
must be undertaken with care. A " white form "
is also referred to in the paragraph, which I do
not appear to recall. If good and pure, it would
certainly be very charming. — E. H. Jenkins.

Rose-Buds Dropping OH. — We have lost so
many buds this year, especially during their
formation for the second flowering, that I would
like to ask, if space can be spared, whether other
readers of The Garden have shared a similar
fate ? Sometimes the buds have been almost black,
at other times yellowish, and of sizes varying from
a pin's head to an ordinary Sweet Pea seed. We
have never been able to track Jiny insect in the
act of damaging them, and the plants have been
regularly syringed with one solution or other,
besides which the plants are normally healthy.
In some cases the buds would be quite right one
day, then in another day or so gone, or would fall
immediately if the bush or shoot was handled,

and frequently the loss would be from a clean and
strong growth. Our final supposition was that
the falling off must be due in some way to cUmatic
conditions. Can anyone offer any better explana-
tion ? I ought to add that the plants have been
regularly watered, so there is no fear of drought. —
C. T., Highgale.

Rose President Vignet. — This new Hybrid
Tea, from Pemet-Ducher in 1911, has been extra
good with me of late ; in fact, it is one of the very
best reds at this season ; a capital grower and
bloomer, flowers large and solid, also possessed
of an especially sweet perfume. Carmine, shaded
with poppy red, is the best description I can give,
and as it was good last autumn as well as this,
it will probably take a high position as a good late
red bloomer. — A. P.

Salvia uliginosa as a Hardy Plant. — In reference

to your illustration and note in The Garden for
September 27, page 484, it may interest readers
to know that this plant has been growing now for
several years in the herbaceous ground at the
Botanic Gardens, Cambridge, without being in
any way affected, either in the winter or early
spring, by frosts. Although the individual flowers
are of a pleasing blue, the plant itselfisof asomewhat
straggling habit, from 5 feet to 6 feet high, and
hardly to be compared with some of the other
members of the Sage family. — F. G Preston,
Botanic Gardens, Cambridge.

Musk Losing Its Scent. — In your issue of
.•\ugust 23, page 418, " E. A. P." enquires if Musk
still retains its scent in its native haunts. I
enclose seeds of a variety growing on Vancouver
Island. This resembles Mimulus moschatus, and
grows luxiuriantly in moist places, but is not scented.
I have never found a scented variety here. —
T. Sheward. HiUbank, Vancouver Island, British
Columbia,

In your issue for August 23, page 418,

there was a very interesting article on
" Musk Losing its Scent," by " E. A. P.," who
says he would like to know whether it is still
fragrant in its native haunts and by what insects
it is fertilised there. In my garden here there are
quantities of wild Musk, which I often pull up by
handfuls, for it grows so quickly that it smothers
the other plants. It flowers so freely and looks
so pretty that I leave a patch here and there,
but, alas ! it is quite scentless. I am no botanist,
so cannot say anything about the variety, but to
all appearances it is just the same plant we used
to grow m pots at home in the Old Country, and
no doubt " E. A. P." will be considerably amused
to learn that a week or two before reading his
article in The Garden I purchased a tiny pot
plant from a local nurseryman, who assured me
that it was " real English Musk," grown from seed
sent to him direct. This certainly had a slight
perfume when I bought it, but I regret to say the
plant was neglected and has died down. With
reference to the insects that fertilise it here, I should
say it must be the mosquitoes which perform that
duty, as they abound and are most plentiful where
the Musk plant thrives best. — C. R. Thurston,
Vancouver, British Columbia.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS. "
October 13. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Meeting. National Chrysan-
themum Society's Floral Committee Meeting at
Essex Hall, Strand, London.

October 16. — Royal Jersey Fruit Show. North
of England Horticultural Society's Show at Leeds
(two days).

THE IMPROVEMENT OF
GARDEN ROSES.

WHAT does the amateur rosarian
want from the raisers of new
Roses, and on what lines ought
he to press for improvement ?
In the abstract the questions
seem easy enough to answer.
A visit to any of our big shows would indicate
that we already possess flowers of great beauty
and variety, both in form and colour, so that we
might be tempted to say, as Rivers did sixty years
ago, that it seems difficult to expect anything more
beautiful ; while the florists' shops sho%v us that
we may now have Roses of great beauty nearly
all the year through. Yet, when we come to
examine our own and our friends' gardens, we
become conscious that there is considerable possi-
bility of improvement in our garden Roses. At
the same time, we can only in reason hope to
proceed by steps, and these steps must be practical
ones ; that is to say, if we hope to get some special
quality impressed on our Roses, we must look for
it, or for some indication of it, in the plants we
already possess.

Now the first quality to which I would ask our
hybridisers to devote their attention is continuity in
flowering. No one can deny that great steps have
already been made in this direction. It is only neces-
sary to go into an old-fashioned Rose garden, as I
did in the month of September, where the plants are
those of twenty or thirty years ago, that is, mostly
Hybrid Perpetuals, and see them all looking
very green and healthy, with great, long shoots,
but scarcely a flower worth looking at among them,
and then compare this with a Rose garden of modem
plants gay with a profusion of flowers and colour.
The gain is considerable, but it might be extended.
All the Hybrid Teas, even the best of them, have
a flowerless period, often of some weeks, succeed-
ing each burst of bloom. Liberty, Mme. Ravary,
Lady Ashtown, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Caroline
Testout, Joseph Hill, Mrs. E. G. Hill and Mme.
Leon Pain all cease flowering for a time while the
buds for the next crop of flowers are growing.
My special affection for Richmond is, 1 think,
largely founded on the fact that in its case this
flowerless period is less than with most other
varieties. Even the Teas, like Mme. Lambard
and Mme. Antoine Mari, possess the like defect,
though Molly Shamian Crawford perhaps shows
it less than most of them.

I decline, however, altogether to think that
this condition is a necessary one. We do now
possess in our gardens three Roses in which there
is actually no cessation of flowering. My beds of
Jessie, Mrs. Cutbush and Orleans Rose have been
ftill of flower without a break ever since the plants
came into bloom towards the end of June. If
these charming little plants only possessed beauty
of form in the flower as well as continuity, we
should be a great step in advance ; but, unfortu-
nately, they do not, and we still wait for a Hybrid
Tea of fine shape and colom: to equal them in con-
tinuity. Of course, in order to secure this con-
tinuity in the varieties I have named, cultivation
must be attended to. They must be planted in
really well-made beds, and have their flowers care-
fully removed as they go over. Also, if a period
of drought supervenes, as has happened this
summer, they must have occasionally a thoroughly
good soaking of water. If planted in badly-made
beds, or if neglected, they will have their flowerless

508

THE GARDEN.

[October ii, 1913,

periods like other Roses. Possibly Mr. Pember-
ton's beautiful new seedlings Danae and Moonlight
may help us in the desired direction ; but down
to the present I have not tried them.

Disease-Resisting Roses Wanted. — Another
direction in which we may look and hope for im-
provement is in that of freedom from disease.
No one but the rosarian knows how much time and
trouble is lost in the attempt to keep down mildew,
and how hopeless and disreputable a Rose garden
looks where the attempt has failed and the fimgus
is disfiguring the foliage. Now we already possess
several Roses which are practically immune from
this disease. For instance, Lady Waterlow,
Rayon d'Or and the old Rose Mrs. George Dickson
appear to be unaffected by mildew, though they
may fall a prey to black spot. Some Roses are
great offenders in their liability to mildew. If
we could find a Killamey, an Irish Elegance or a
Mrs. Herbert Stevens that was
immune from this pest, how great
would be the advance, for each
of these in its way has a form
of great beauty ! In its effect on
the constitution of the plant in
future years, black spot appears
to be a more serious enemy of
our Roses even than mildew,
and, moreover, it is far less easily
dealt with. Few, if any,^ Roses
appear to be immune from this
trouble, but some are much more
subject to it than others. The
Lyon Rose in my garden has
been a great offender in this
respect, and White Maman Cochet
and Dawn are easily affected
by it.

There is a third direction in
which we may look for improve-
ment in our Roses of to-day, and
that is in the development of
plants that will readily and under
moderate conditions of culture
yield us flowers of good form and
decided colour throughout the
season, be it wet or fine, when
grown as cut-backs. There are
many Roses which more or less
frequently give fine flowers on
maiden plants which are nearly
useless as cut-backs. These the
wise man will turn out of his
garden so soon as he has been
able to give them a fair trial,
and they die a natural death
before many years are past after
duct ion. But there are many
among them some of our best

if it be wet and they are improtected. I can think
of few Roses which meet my requirements in this
respect better than Mme. Abel Chatenay. It
almost always produces well-shaped flowers, and
though no doubt its colour is sometimes better
than at others, it is seldom a poor colour, and it
is no doubt to these virtues that its immense
popularity is due. It has other defects, it is true,
but in the qualities I have named, perhaps it is as
yet tmsurpassed.

Now how are we to secure the production of
Roses with these desirable qualities — continuity
of flowering, freedom from disease, and the easy
production of good flowers throughout the season ?
Clearly we shall get no assistance from the shows,
where none will display any but the most perfect
flowers that he can produce ; nor from the descrip-
tions given by the raisers, who commonly predicate
all these qualities of their seedlings, and I am willing

DESIGNING A ROSE
GARDEN.

PLAN OF A ROSE GARDEN WITH LILY POOL IN THE CENTRE

their intro-
others, and
Roses, which
are by no means good throughout the season.
Richmond is lovely in its first bloom and good
again in autumn ; but the summer flowers, par-
ticularly in a year of summer drought like the
present, are often of poor quality and colour,
and though they may look well in the distance,
will stand no close inspection. Mme. Ravary,
again, and several varieties of similar colouring,
including the beautiful Prince de Bulgarie, when
the autumn rains and cold nights begin to arrive,
seem to get all the colour washed out of them
and lose character altogether ; while there are
others, like Duchess of Wellington, Mme. Edmee
Metz, Mme. Segond Weber and many of the Teas,
with petals of thin substance which are most
beautiful when the weather is fine, but hopeles^

to believe that the raiser's description may often have,
been justified by his experience of the maiden plants
of the new variety in his own garden. But the
amateur knows only too well that when the plant
is transferred to his own garden, the description
but too frequently differs materially from his own
observation of the new Rose.

It seems that as matters are now arranged it
is to the amateurs chiefly and finally that we must
look to secure the results we desire. By vigorous
criticism and elimination of the undesirables they
will get what they want, if only they will be guided
by patient observation in their own and their
friends' gardens throughout the year, rather than
by occasional enthusiasm at a flower show or the
credulous study of a catalogue. The improvement
of the Rose as an exhibition flower is effected
automatically ; its improvement as a garden plant
lies with the gardener. White Rose.

AROSE garden may often be made much
more delightful by having some one
point of interest besides the Roses,
for nothing is more usual than to
^ find that, except in the few weeks
of its fullest bloom, the Rose garden
is rather a dull place. There are several ways in
which such an object of interest may be secured •
either by a sundial or fountam, or a raised stone
flower-bed, or a piece of ornamental sculpture in
stone or lead, whether central or defining certain
points of the circumference in prepared niches
in the bounding hedge. In the case of the garden
shown, ttis variation of interest is given by a tank
for Water Lilies 20 feet across, giving good space
for at least three kinds of beau-
tiful Water Lilies. The low,
flat kerb, which in an unbroken
circle of this size would be a
trifle monotonous, is varied on
the four sides opposite the paths
by a square projection, which
gives width enough for the placing
of four pots or small tubs of
flowers in pairs. The four beds
nearest the tank are also treated
with a certain symmetry, and
are planted with Lavender and
China Rose, thus securing some
permanence of effect and good
clothing for all seasons, and so
also joining in with the enduring
and unaltering stonework of the
tank. The small circles in the
four diagonal angles are trained
weeping Roses, of such a kind
as the pretty pale pink Lady
Godiva.

The large clumps have a middle
mass of five plants of the fine
rugosa hybrid Blanc Double de
Coubert. This is chosen because
of its handsome dark green foliage
and for its way of forming a
dense, bushy mass of solid charac-
ter, quite different to the thinner
habit of most Roses. The coloured
Roses will come well in groups
as shown, using four kinds in
each clump. The names of the
actual kinds are not given, because
the choice will depend both on
the character of the soil and climate and on
the taste of the owner. But as a general sugges-
tion as to colour arrangement, it would be well
to have in the space B some good Rose of a deep
pink or a clear rosy red such as Zephyrine Drouhin,
in C a bright red, in D a white, and in E and F
a light pink. The whole garden is much beautified
by a complete edging of Stachys lanata. The
flower-stems are cut out when half developed ;
then the plant at once spreads at the root
and forms a silvery carpet. It is kept fairly
even on the side next the turf, but runs
freely into the bed where there is space between
the Roses. This edging is not only most
becoming to the Roses, but serves a useful
purpose by defining the form of the design.
Thorough preparation of the soil is, of course,
essential for success, but this is dealt with fully
elsewhere. . G. Jekvii..

6cT0BKR il, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

509

A SUBURBAN ROSE
GARDEN.

DURING recent years the cultivation of
Roses in gardens situated in tlie suburbs
of London has received a great im-
petus, and one of the most charming
instances that
have come to our
notice is at The
Lodge, Surbiton
Hill. Here Mr.
William Hudson,
the owner, has,
in an area of less
than an acre,
formed a Rose
garden of con-
siderable beauty
and interest. Un-
til a few years
ago the ground
now occupied by
Roses was a
wilderness
of overgrown
fruit bushes,
which have been
disestablished in
favour of the pre-
sent inhabitants.
The beds have
been laid out with
only so much
formality as is

given by their
regular shapes
and balanced dis-
position. There

are no brick or

stone paths, but

the Roses make
little oases of

colour in their

setting of green

turf. Well-grown

trees form a

strong back-

groimd, and in

front of these the

boimdary fences

have hidden their

bareness behind

a wealth o i

climbers of all

sorts. In the

borders in front

of these climbers

many choice her-
baceous plants,

particularly well-

grown Delphi-
niums, Phloxes,

Hollyhocks and

tall Evening

Primroses, luxu-
riate in bold

masses, the whole

forming a charm-
ing setting for

the Rose garden

proper.

In planting the

Rose - beds the

owner has wisely used only one variety in a
bed, so that a beautiful mass of one colour,
instead of the too often bizarre effect, is obtained.
For the purpose of providing flowers at those
times when the Roses are more or less
resting, the beds have been carpeted with
Violas or Tufted Pansies, and in some instances
Carnations are intermixed with the Rose bushes.

A VIEW IN THE ROSE GARDEN AT THE LODGE, SURBITON HILL, SURREY.

1 the latter giving a wealth of fragrant flowers for
cutting that is only surpassed by the Roses them-
selves. Well over two himdred different varieties
are grown, these being selected principally for their
freedom of flowering, good, distinct colours and
even contour. Those large-flowered kinds which
naturally produce their blooms in clusters are
vigorously disbudded, so that only the most

promising bud is
left on each stem.
The result of this
disbudding is that
only large flowers
of perfect contour
are developed.
Some of the best
dwarf or semi-
dwarf varieties in
the beds are
Duchess of
Wellington (soft
yellow), Lady
Hillingdon (a pale
shade of orange
and buff), General
Macarthur (crim-
son), M m e .
R a v a r y (soft
buff), Camoens
(glowing rose,
with yellow base),
Caroline Testout
(pink), Earl of
Warwick (flesh
pink and rose),
F r a u Karl
Druschki (white),
Griiss an Teplitz
(bright crimson),
Gustave Regis
(nankeen yellow,
fading to cream),
J. B. Clark (crim-
son scarlet), Lady
Ashtown (rose
pink), La Tosca
(pale cream,
rose), Lyons Rose
(coral red, tinted
orange), M m e .
Abel C hat en ay
(pink, suffused
salmon), M m e .
Leon Pain
(silvery white,
rose pink centre),
Mrs. W. J. Grant
(bright rose
pink), Paul Lede
(apricot, shaded
rose), Richmond
(glowing c r i m -
son), Sulphurea
(bright sulphur
yellow), Rayon
d'Or (rich canary
yellow), Pharisaer
(similar to Mme.
Leon Pain), Mme.
Melanie Soupert
(pale yellow, suf-
fused amethyst),
Antoine Rivoire
(pale cream),
Mrs. .\aron Ward

510

THE GARDEN.

[October ii, 1913,

ROSE FORTUNE'S YELLOW
AT LOCKINGE.

A CLUSTER OF WHITE BLOOJdS OF ROSA
DUPONTII.

(Indian yellow, edged white), Mrs. George
Shawyer (pale rose) and Prince de Bulgarie
(pale rose, shaded apricot). At one side of the
Rose garden is a large bed filled with that beautiful,
but too often disappointing, variety, Juliet. This
is a very vigorous-growing Rose, and Mr. Hudson
has wisely allowed the long shoots to remain
nearly their full length, pegging the tip of each
to the ground. Nearly every lateral shoot pro-
duced from these is terminated by a large and
fragrant bloom of bright rose colour, shaded old
gold on the under side or reverse of the petals.
This seems to be the best way to treat this variety
for garden purposes.

When the fruit bushes were cleared away to
make room for the Roses, a few old Apple trees
were allowed to remain, and these now make
excellent supports for many beautiful rambler
and pillar Roses, such as Conrad F. Meyer, Blush
Rambler, Lady Gay, Hiawatha, American Pillar,
Tea Rambler and Dorothy Perkins. There must
be many gardens where old Apple, Pear or Plum
trees, no longer of value for their fruit, might be
put to similar use. The Roses must, however,
be planted well away from the roots of the
trees, and the long shoots trained up among the
branches.

In addition to these natural supports, a few rough
Larch posts with portions of the lateral branches
remaining have been let into the ground, and
these support a number of good pillar Roses that
are allowed to throw their vigorous shoots almost
where they will, instead of, as is too often the case,
being tied tightly to a plain, unbranched post.
It is really surprising that rustic poles, old tree
stumps, and rough Larch posts are not more
often used for supporting Roses of rambling habit.
Conrad F. Meyer has been especially good grown
in this free and pleasing manner. In front of the
house several fine weeping standard Roses have
been planted, two of the best being Minnehaha
and Jean Guichard. The illustration on the
previous page represents a view in this
garden at Surbiton, and gives some idea of
the beautiful effect obtained by massing one
variety in a bed, with pillars of ramblers
forming a sort of open but harmonious back-
ground.

ALTHOUGH this beautiful Rose has been
in cultivation for a great many years,
it has not become so popular as its
merits deserve. When well grown it
^ is one of the most beautiful, as well
as the most useful, Roses in culti-
vation. Although it may be grown quite success-
fully outdoors in a sheltered situation, it is perhaps
more at home and of much greater value when
grown in a cool house. My predecessor, the late
Mr. W. Fyfe, established it in three different
structures in these gardens, and from these we cul
large quantities of flowers all through the spring
months. The earliest blooms are cut from two
trees planted on either side of a rather low span-
roofed house. The main stems are trained along
the bottom of the rafters much in the same manner
as a Vine. From these branches the young wood
grows over the trellis and is trained about a foot
apart.

It is while the growth of this wood is in progress
that the strictest attention must be devoted to
the general requirements of the plants, for the
better this young growth is developed, the better
will be the flowers, both in colour and substance.
In passing I must say a word about the colour of
this lovely Rose, as when seen at its best there
are few Roses that can equal it in this respect.
At Lockinge it assumes a beautiful apricot colour,
which is more pronounced when the yomig flowering
wood becomes thoroughly matured ; therefore
it follows that everything possible must be done
to assist the perfect development of the young
growths. The nature of the soil, too, undoubtedly
has a deal to do with the colour of the flower,
and as the natural soil here is very chalky, it would
seem that this constituent is essential in bringmg
out the best colour in this particular Rose. The
tjees in this house are planted in a somewhat
restricted, well-drained border, and during the
growing season the roots receive copious supplies
of water. The feeding takes the form of diluted
drainings from the farmyard, and, as mentioned
before, it is given principally when the young
flowering growth is in course of development,
and agam while the flower-buds are developing. At
the present time this growth is nearing completion,
and for the next two or three months the trees
must be induced to remain in a dormant condition.
This is best brought about by keeping the house
as cool as possible ; therefore, when choosing the
structure in which to grow them, one must be
selected in which the temperature can be kept at
about 40° during the time the Roses are resting.
The flowering-time can, of course, be regulated by
extending or shortening the season of rest ; but,
needless to say, the flowers which we get from the
earliest house are not nearly so fine as those grown
in the latest one.

We commence cutting the first blooms at the
end of February from the first house ; the second
crop we get from a plant growing over the rool
of a lofty conservatory ; and the third and main
crop from two large plants growing in a large,
lofty house in which are stored specimen bedding
plants during the winter. After flowering, the
trees are pruned, which consists of cutting hard
back all the old flowering wood. The young growths
are very soon active, and from these the most
promising are selected and trained over the trellis.
During the growing season the trees must be gone
over several times to remove superfluous weak

growth. After pruning, 2 inches or 3 inches of
the surface soil is removed and replaced with
fresh loam, old lime rubble and crushed bones,
and later on, when the surface of the border is
full of roots, a good top-dressing of well-decomposed
farmyard manure is given, and this is thoroughly
washed into the borders at once. The worst
enemy of this Rose is mildew, which will quickly
appear if the roots are allowed to become dry.
During the growing season the trees are thoroughly
syringed with clear water daily. All the trees
here are growing on their own roots.

Lockinge Gardens, Wantage. E. Harriss.

ROSB SPECIES OR
ROSES.

WILD

THEIR USE IN THE GARDEN.

THE beauty and consequent popularity
of the large family of garden Roses
is no doubt responsible for the rather
meagre attention given to the species
and botanical varieties. Though so
neglected in our gardens fo-day,
quite a number of them are deserving of attention,
even in small gardens. It may be for their pretty,
daintily-coloured single flowers, their elegant
foliage, attractive fruits in autumn and early
winter, or their coloured stems and the striking
character of the thorns. The Rose garden proper
is not, of course, the place for the wild Roses,
unless it be as a hedge to surround the garden,
and possibly, if the environment is suitable, a few
informal groups on the outskirts or approach to
the garden. It is in the less formal parts of the
pleasure grounds, the wild garden and open breaks
in the woodland that they are seen and appreciated
in their greatest beauty.

A considerable number of these bushes are self-
supporting. Others, which include Rosa arvensis,
the Ayrshire Rose, and R. wichuraiana, are best
when clothing a more or less steep bank, or scramb-
ling over and perhaps hiding an unsightly fence.
Yet another section, represented by the very

THE AYRSHIRF. ROSE (ROSA ARVENSIS).

October ii, iqi3.

THE GARDEN.

511

KO^A XOMt.NTOSA, A BRITISH SPECIES
WITH PINK 1-LOWERS.

vigorous R. nioschata, will, with a little encouragi •
ment in the early stages, scramble up trees to a
height of 25 feet or more, and make a most effectiv.'
picture when in flower. A few of the most useful
for prominent beds in the pleasure grounds
are R. Hugonis, R. lutea, R. indica, the
Scotch Rose, R. spinosissima and varieties. R
Moycsii, R, rugosa, R. nitida and R. sericea
ptcracantha.

The wild Roses will thrive in most soils; but il
poor and sandy, incorporate plenty of old decayed
manure, cow-raanure for preference, previous t<.
planting, an occasional mulching with manure
being also very beneficial. Seeds and cuttings
form ready and easy methods of propagation.
As, however, the single Roses hybridise ver>'
readily unless the fruits are collected from isolated
bushes, it is safer to propagate by means ol
cuttings. No priming of the Rose species is neces-
sary, but an occasional thinning of the shoots is
desirable after flowering, the older wood being
cut out, if possible, in some instances down to the
ground, which will generally have the effect of
inducing vigorous yoimg shoots to push up from
the base. There are probably about a hundred
distinct species, and an equal number or more
botanical varieties. To contain anything like a
representative collection of these beautiful single
Roses, the garden must obviously be a large one.
There are, however, few gardens in which space
cannot be found for some of the best, a selection
of these being given.

Rosa acicularis. — This Siberian Rose forms a
shapely bush 6 feet to 7 feet in height. The bright
rosy pink flowers appear towards the end of May,
and are followed in autumn by shiny, Pear-shaped,
waxy red fruits. The foliage is attractive in
summer, and in winter the reddish colour of the
twigs is noticeable.

R. alpina. — The single, rosy red flowers of the
Alpine Rose are welcome in May, as also are the
red hips in autumn. It is an European species,
and varies considerably in height, a dwarf, free-
fruiting variety being very useful in the rock

garden. R. pyrenaica is a dwarf form with long,
flask-shaped fruits, which ripen in August.

R. arvensis. — This is a British species readily
recognised by its long, slender, trailing stems.
Popularly known as the Ayrshire Rose, the habit
of the plant makes it very suitable for clothing
banks and scrambling over old tree stumps. The
white flowers, with a pretty tuft of yellow stamens
m the centre, e.xpand during June and July. The
small, oval fruits are orange red in colour. Its
elegant, graceful habit is noticeable in the illus-
tration on page 510.

R. bracteata. — To grow the Macartney Rose
successfully in all but the warmer parts of the
country, the shelter of a wall is desirable. It is a
native of China, and the large white flowers are
delightfully fragrant and effectively displayed
by the rich shining green leaves.

R. Carolina. — ^The Swamp Rose of North
.America, this species may be grown successfully
in damp situations by the lakeside and stream.
It forms a large bush some 6 feet in height, with

dainty dwarf-growing variety named sanguinea
has semi-double, rich crimson flowers and reddish
leaves. The latter is a gem for the rock garden.
Viridiflora or monstrosa, the green-flowered Rose,
is grown by some as a novelty.

R. laevigata, the Cherokee Rose, should be
planted at the foot of a warm south wall. The
large white, single blooms, with a setting of the
shining green foliage, cannot fail to appeal to
lovers of Nature. A variety. Anemone, with
silvery pink flowers, is delightful towards the
end of May.

R. lutea, the Austrian Briar, flowers in May.
The type has single, yellow flowers, and a form
with attractive reddish brown flowers is named
Austrian Copper. Perhaps the most useful and
attractive of all is Harrisoni, a serai-double yellow
variety which makes a splendid hedge or specimen
bed 4 feet to 5 feet high.

R. macrantha is a delightful single Rose with
large blush white or flesh-tinted petals. It is
supposed to be a hybrid between R. canina and R.
gallica, and makes a nice bushy specimen.

R. moschata, the Musk Rose, is very vigorous
in habit, climbmg up lofty trees and hanging in
festoons from the branches, clothing arbours or
scrambling over old outbuildings. The large
panicles of fragrant white blooms are at their best
at the end of June and during July- The variety
Brimonii is a glaucous-leaved variety, and Pissardii
is a semi-double, perpetual-flowering variety not
so tall and vigorous in growth.

R. rubiginosa, the Sweet Briar, is well known
by reason of its fragrant leaves. It makes a
splendid hedge Rose, and is attractive when in
flower and laden with fruits in autumn. As
the parent of the Penzance Briars, it has resulted
in the introduction of numerous delightful additions
to our strong- growing single Roses.

R. rugosa, the Japanese Rose, makes a splendid
hedge or large bed in the pleasure grounds. The
large rosy red blooms and handsome red fruits
are freely produced. There are numerous varieties

THE MUSK ROSE (ROSA MOSCHATA;,

clusters of pretty pink flowers produced from June
to .August.

R. einnamomea. — This is a pink May-flowering
Rose native of Europe and North Asia. It forms
a large bush 7 feet to 8 feet high, with conspicuous
dark red, round fruits in autumn.

R. Dupontii. — A pretty bush 4 feet to 6 feet
high, with clusters of blooms, well shown in the
illustration. The long, flask-shaped fruits are
orange red in colour.

R. Hugonis. — This species is of comparatively
recent introduction from China. Growing 6 feet
or more in height, the rich yellow blooms, 2 inches
across, are freely borne during May and early June.
When not in flower, the elegant. Fern-like foliage
attracts attention. R. Hugonis is adapted for
a bed in the pleasure groimds or for massing
in the shrubbery border.

R. indica, the Monthly Rose, seems never out
of flower from early summer till spoilt by frosts
in late autumn. It is perhaps best known as the
parent of the dwarf free-flowering Tea and China
Roses. The type has rosy red blooms while a

ROSA SOULIEANA, FROM CHINA.

512

THE GARDEN.

[October ii, 1913.

or hybrids of the rugosa Rose in cultivation
with single and semi-double blooms, notably the
large white-flowered Blanche Double de Coubert and
the fragrant, though qiute double, Conrad F. Meyer.

R. sericea is one of the most distinct single
Roses with its four-petalled, pure white flowers.
It is an excellent Rose to plant as a specimen bush,
growing 6 feet to 8 feet high and as much through,
with elegant, Fern-like foliage. The variety
pteracantha is a most distinct plant, with huge red
thorns thickly clothing the branches.

R. SOUlieana is a tall, vigorous-growing bush
with very beautiful glaucous foliage, spiny shoots
and long sprays of white flowers, followed in the
autumn with orange red fruits. A native of China.

R. spinosissima, the Scotch
Rose, grows from 2 feet to 3 feet
high. There are numerous varieties
with white, yellow, pink and blush
single and semi - double flowers.
Altaica is a tall-growing variety
3 feet 'to 4 feet high, with white
flowers.

R, tomentosa is a European
species including Britain. The rose
pink flowers are borne on bushes
some 5 feet to 6 feet high during
June and July. In autumn the
round, red, bottle-necked fruits are
prominent. ,

R. Wichuraiana. — The introduc-
tion of this late-flowering Japanese
Rose has caused quite a revolution
among climbing or rambling Roses,
and it begins to make one wonder
what our gardens looked like before
the coming of Dorothy Perkins,
Hiawatha, American Pillar and
numerous others. Being an ever-
green species, R. wichuraiana is
very useful for clothing bare banks
and tree stumps. The dainty
white blooms, with a tuft of
yellow stamens in the centre, are
at their best during August and
September. A. O.

majority practically useless, from chops and other
injuries, but a third of the whole were not Rose
stocks, but Blackberries ! " Of course, it is not
necessary to collect Briars from the hedgerows,
as these may be raised in any garden or, better
still, purchased already worked and made into
standard Roses from the nurseryman, and this is
unquestionably the best course for the beginner
to pursue.

Standard Roses are sometimes injured by wind and
frosts, and, where possible, they should be sheltered
from the north and east. Shelter is also advisable
from the south-west, as it is from this quarter that
our strong winds blow, which may cause the stakes
to break off near to the soil-level. In such cases

HINTS ON
STANDARD ROSES.

IN order to have first-rate
standard Roses it is neces-
sary to commence with good
Briar stocks. I prefer to
collect my own Briars from
the hedgerows in the autumn,
but, needless to say, it is not
everyone who would care to take
up this pursuit. Where choice
is possible, I prefer two year old shoots for
stocks, and, failing them, three year old shoots,
but growths in the first year are generally to be
avoided, as the Xvood is often soft and pithy. Stocks
without roots at all will grow if grubbed out below
the surface of the soil, but these should only be
used when short. That there is an element of
risk in leaving the collecting of Briars to the
uninitiated is seen by the amusing incident related
by the late Rev. A. Foster-Melliar, Rector of
Sproughton, Suffolk : " When I was ill one winter
I tvas pleased to hear that a parishioner had brought
me a nice lot of stocks at a reasonable price. One
of the fir=t acts of my convalescence was to inspect
their quality. And alas ! not only were the

The photograph from which the illustration was
prepared was taken in mid-June, although at the
time of writmg (October 2) there is even a greater
abundance of bloom to be seen on the same trees.
It is a much-debated pomt as to whether other
plants should be allowed a place in the Rose garden.
But for standard Roses, at least, a low carpet of
some other flowermg plant will do much towards
hiding the surface soil and the bare legs of the
standards. For this purpose nothing is better
than the Viola, although Mignonette is likewise
very suitable. If Violas are used, then whites
or pale yellows such as White Swan and Primrose
Dame will be more in keeping with the Rose garden ;
the mauve and purple shades should be excluded.
Weeping standards are much in
favour now, and deservedly so, for
it would be hard to conceive a
more lovely object on a lawn than,
say, a weeping standard of Delight,
with drooping sprays wreathed in
bloom down to the level of the
lawn. Many varieties, notably
•liberie Barbier, Hiawatha, and
Shower of Gold, may be grown in
this way, while Blush Rambler,
Dorothy Perkins, Lady Gay,
Helene, Griiss an Teplitz and Mme.
A, Carrierc are just a few of the free-
headed standards that look well in
isolated positions on lawns. C.

u ^ \j t

A BED OF STANDARDS OF ROSE FLORENCE PEMBERTON, WITH VIOLA
WHITE SWAN AS A CARPET.

the old Stumps should be drawn from the earth and
the stakes renewed without delay. Buildings
form the best shelter, and that is one reason why
standard Roses are often a great success near
the approach to the house.

Generally speaking. Hybrid Teas make the best
standards. The Hybrid Perpetuals are often too
vigorous, and are seen at their best when pegged
down in beds. Teas, however, make good standards
and often produce the finest exhibition blooms.
The varieties Hugh Dickson, Mme. Abel Chatenay,
Lady Ashtown and A. R. Goodwin make admirable
standards, but a variety that has excelled itself
for profusion of bloom this year is imdoubtedly
Florence Pemberton, the subject of the illustration.

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATE 1478.

SINGLE AND SEMI-
DOUBLE ROSES.

UBTLESS many living
rosarians can recall
the time when single
and semi - double
Roses were held in
very poor esteem, and
to have awarded them gold medals
would have brought down upon
the heads of the judges consider-
able disapproval. This has all
been changed, and to-day we find
a growing regard for the exquisite
single and semi-double Roses,
especially those of almost ever-
bloommg quality, that we trust
will long remain.

It was thought when Messrs.
Alexander Dickson and Sons gave
us Irish Elegance in 1905 that the
climax of beautiful colouring had
been attained ; but this celebrated
firm have now produced Irish
Fireflame, one of the subjects of our coloured
plate, which, we venture to say, will soon be in
every garden in the land. One could obtain some
idea of its beauty when it was staged for the gold
medal and secured it at Southampton last year,
but to see it growing in its home at Newtownards,
as we have done, has made our task of writing
about its charms one of real pleasure. At New-
townards we saw row after row of it growing in
the greatest luxuriance, appealing to us not alone
by its wonderful colour, but also by the beauty
of growth, foliage and habit.

There has been some correspondence in our
columns regarding the free blooming of Irish
Elegance. We may say here that this grand Rose

Stipplciiiiii

t to 11 IE GARDEN, October will, hjIj-

TWO NEW ROSES—

Single: Irish Fireflame.
Double : Queen Mary.

Hudson & Keanis, Ltd., rrintcrs, London, S.B.

October ii, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

513

is always in bloom with us upon practically un-
pruned bushes, some as much as 4 feet through,
others 7 feet to 8 feet high on east walls, all treated
alike, that is, a sparing of the pruning-knife. Irish
Fireflame, growing like this, will be one of our very
best garden Roses, and will doubtless be planted
in quantities ; for where is there any more
exquisite or elegant Rose for decorating a
table ?

We shall always retain a vivid recollection of the
first time Messrs. Dickson exhibited Queen Mary,
the second subject of our coloured plate. This
was at the Festival of Empire, Crystal Palace,
on which occasion it was awarded the silver cup
as the best seedling Rose shown. This was soon

perpetual-flowering quality, and here they score
largely over the single and semi-double species
that are not perpetual. We feel sure there is
a great future for such Roses, and many of the
novelties not yet in commerce, which we saw at
Newtownards, Belmont and Portadown during a
recent visit to Ireland, displayed such a
remarkable shrub-like habit that we thought
then what perfect-flowering shrubs they wll make
and how our gardens will be enriched by their
introduction.

Our advice to raisers is to strive after the glowing
tints that are absent among flowering shrubs,
and also for the hardiness and the true perpetual-
blooming of the old common Monthly Rose, and

vigorous and free-flowering. It is, moreover,
perfectly hardy. The flowers are pure white,
well formed and very fragrant. I myself can
claim no credit for the surprising growth this
variety has made here, for beyond, every few years,
cutting out some of the dead wood at the back
and nailing up the more rampant shoots, it has
received no cultural care whatever. The original

1 plant, which covers two-thirds of the space on
the front of the house and a large space at the side

! as well — which is not seen in the illustration —
I found growing on the left-hand side of the porch
when I first came to Rosebank twenty-eight years
ago. Judging by the size of the stems then, I
should sav it must have been there from fifteen

ROSE BENNETT S SEEDLING ON THE FRONT OF ROSEB.\NK. BERKH.MMSTED, THE RESIDENCE OF MR.

OF THE N.\TIONAL ROSE SOCIETY.

E. MAWLEY, SECRETARY

after the advent of Juliet, and we could not help
remarking that there was in its wonderful colouring
something that recalled that wonderful Rose.
The remarkable colouring of canar\' yellow and
carmine, the latter shade being crayoned upon
the yellow and not infused, makes this Rose a gem
of rare beauty, and Messrs. Dickson could not have
chosen a more lovely Rose to bear the name of
our gracious Queen. The growth is vigorous, and,
as we saw it growing, its habit and bronzed apple
green wood gave one the impression that we had
here a Rose of real merit, and one of which there
could be no ca\-illing as to the correct estimation
it has obtained at the hands of the National Rose
Society when they awarded it the gold medal in
July last.

The great merit of the two Roses named above,
apart from their colouring, is in their practically

we can accord them in the name of our readers
a very generous welcome.

ROSE

BENNETT'S
LING.

SEED-

THE Rose growing over the north-west
front of my house at Berkhamsted is
an old Ayrshire Rose known as
Bennett's Seedling, and was so-called
after the gardener who raised it. It
is also known as thoresbyana. because
it first saw the light in the gardens of Thoresby
Hall, Lincolnshire. Even at the present day it
would be difiicult to find any climbing Rose
possessing so many good qualities. As will be
seen by the illustration above, it is remarkably

to twenty years. The plant on the right-haiia
side of the porch was put in by me about twelve
years ago, and, considering the time it has been
there, has done equally well. This part of the
front was covered with a Wistaria when I came
to Rosebank, but as it flowered, as a rule, so sparsely,
the Rose on that side was allowed to do its worst,
and, as will be seen, has at last succeeded in com-
pletely smothering the Wistaria.

I can truly say I have no other Rose in my
garden which behaves itself so consistently well,
or gives so little trouble or so much pleasure.
It is, as I said before, perfectly hardy ; in fact,
whatever the previous winter, spring or early
summer may have been, it year after year without
fail presents the same sheet of pure white blooms
when in flower. It is never troubled with any
insect or fungoid pest, and notwithstanding drought.

514

THE GARDEN.

[October ii, 1913.

frost, cold winds or other enemies, which every
now and then so seriously affect the well-being
of other Roses, always comes up smiling at the
flowering-time.

But there is a reverse side to every picture,
however lovely. In this case there is the
sad fact which I have intentionally left till
the last, and that is it only flowers once
in the year, and then only for a few weeks,
which in these days of continuous-flowering
Roses will, no doubt, be regarded as a
drawback. Still, Bennett's Seedling is a climb-
ing Rose well worth growing for many reasons,
and there will, no doubt, occur to your readers
many positions where such an adaptable variety
would prove invaluable. If not ever-flowering

Wagram. To some the perfume is delightful ;
to others the odour is not nice.

Then, again, the temperature of the atmosphere
has a good deal to do with the value of the perfume-
giving quality that any particular iiower gives off.
If a census of opinions the world over was taken as
to the most delicately-perfumed Rose, surely that
old variety. La France, would win easily — and in
my humble opinion there is no Rose that can equal
this variety. [We prefer Mrs. John Laing. — Ed.]
Why do the dark red Roses easily outshine any
others in perfume ? This is answered : Because
most of them have coursing through their veins
the blood of the Old Damask. Why, then, is it
that certain Roses, new productions due to the
hybridiser (who, maybe, has used a dark Rose

A BASKET OF KOSE CHERRY

PAGE, A NEW DECORATIVE VARIETY OF
AND FRAGANCE.

RARE BEAUTY

in the summer and autumn, it is in most, winters
evergreen. Edward Mawley.

ON SCENTED ROSES.

WHY is the Rose always considered
the premier flower ? Surely the
answer is because it has more
good qualities than any other
variety, and of these good
qualities that of perfume must
rank pre-eminent. To my mind there are other
flowers whose perfumes are delicious in moderation,
but when cut and left in a room one soon experiences
a sense of heavmess and a tendency to headache.
The Rose cannot be accused of this habit. In
a Rose there is a subtle blending of odours such
as you do not get in any other flower, and this is
well exemplified when different people are asked
their opinions upon a certain flower, e.g., Mme.

in his cult), have no perfume ? There I leave you.
He, in his endeavours to cross one variety with
another, has transgressed some law which Nature
alone knows. This last remark may seem strange
to some, but it is an undoubted fact that most
of the modem Roses are sadly deficient in perfume.
Frau Karl Druschki, William Shean, Mrs. Theodore
Roosevelt and MUdred Grant are practically
scentless, yet, withal, they are glorious flowers.

Now, if we turn our minds to those sweetly-
scented varieties, we shall find that the list is a
very large one, and we can find nearly every colour
thereui in flowers to suit our eyes as well as our
olfactory lobes. Of the pink varieties we have Mrs.
John Laing, Countess of Caledon, Gustav Gruner-
wald, Dr. O'Donel Browne, Mme. Gabriel Luizet
and Gladys Harkness — all perfectly-perfumed
Roses and all good, honest growers. The variety
named after myself, I consider, has a grand perfume,
and is a good doer in every way. Sometimes I
wish I were the flower ! Of crimsons we have a

great list ; indeed, they are nearly all sweet-
scented. Who can find better Roses than Alfred
Colomb, Hugh Dickson, W, E, Lippiatt, Marie
Baumann, Senateur Vaisse, Ulrich Brunner, George
Dickson and Laurent Carle ?

Should the reader require a different perfumed
Rose to any I have mentioned, he must turn to
the pure Teas, Why are they called Teas ? Is
it because they are scented like Tea, or is it because
their first parents came from China ? The scent
of Tea Roses is, in my opinion, an accfuired one ;
it grows on one like tobacco. Marie van Houtte,
Mme. Hoste, Marechal Niel, Mrs. Edward Mawley
and Alexander Hill Gray are a few of those which
possess the highest degree of Tea Rose perfume.
Among climbing Roses, one has but to think of
Franijois Juranville, Gerbe Rose, Bennett's Seedling,
and many others that are a great acquisition over
a summer-house. Then, again, one must not
forget the Hybrid Sweet Briars which the late Lord
Penzance has bound inseparably with his name.
These plants are at their best during an early summer
evening after a shower of rain. There can be no
gainsaying the fact that there are a great many
people who, unless a Rose has a definite perfume,
will have nothing to do with it. This is not fair.
Indeed, they go so far as to say that it should have
been " drowned when a pup." Do they realise
that this same Rose, scentless I grant you, may
some day be the parent of a flower outrivalling
even La France ? Where would Frau Karl
Druschki stand if it could emit the odours of
Horace Vernet or Charles Lefebvre ? No ; let
us be thankful that we have Roses both scented
and unscented. The one enhances the other, and
makes us all the more consider their merits.

O'DoNEL Browne, M.D.

Gorlnagrcna, Naas, County Kildare,

ROSE CHERRY PAGE.

THERE was a basket of Roses exhibited
at the National Rose Show in July
last which attracted considerable atten-
tion, and we have the pleasure to
illustrate this basket in our present
issue. The variety was named Cherry
Page, after the daughter of our able correspondent,
Mr. Courtenay J. Page, who is also a prominent
member of the Council of the National Rose Society.
The Rose belongs to the decorative section of the
Hybrid Teas. Perhaps we should be correct in
saying that this variety is one of the most remark-
able coloured Hybrid Teas we have met with
for a long time, and it is a most difhcult task
to define its true colouring. Mr. Walter Easlea,
its raiser, informs us that there is no variety among
his large collection of Roses at Eastwood that
calls forth so much admiration, especially from lady
visitors, as Cherry Page, and we are pleased to
know he is placing it on the market next spring.
The colour is a glowing orange cerise, with shading
of vermilion towards the edges of the petals, and
the base of the petals is a beautiful daffodil yellow.
The growth is very strong and erect, sending up
fine, rich ruby coloured shoots and foliage that
blend so well with the lovely flowers. The Rose
is semi-double, with huge petals, and during very
sunny weather the flowers expand to a width of
5 inches, revealing the golden centre and a wealth
of golden stamens. For table decoration we
believe Cherry Page has a great future, and feel
sure it will take a leading place among Roses
planted for massing and general garden decoration.

i

October ii, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

515

ROSES
FOR BEDDING.

THE best varieties of Roses
for exhibition are not
always the best for garden
decoration. The former
concentrate all their
energies on producing a
1' w (sometimes very few) choice,
well-ftnished flowers, while the varie-
ties suitable for the latter purpose are
those which produce a quantity of
bloom throughout the season, that
is, from June to the end of October,
and, when the season is favourable,
right up to Christmas. For instance,
we would never think of planting
such varieties as Dean Hole, William
Shcan, Bessie Brown, Mildred Grant,
Albatross, Maman Cochet and Mrs. J.
Laing for producing quantities of
bloom, but rather such varieties
as Caroline Testout, La France
and its sports, Mme. Abel Chatenay,
Prince de Bulgarie, Joseph Hill, General
Macarthur (probably the best red Hybrid Tea
we have). Lieutenant Chaure, Richmond, Liberty,
Duchess of Wellington, .Antoine Rivoire, Griiss
an Teplitz and Frau Karl Druschki.

In small beds one variety only should be
planted, but in beds that will take from two dozen
upwards, two or three varieties, preferably of one
colour, should be used. In this way a more con-
tinuous display may be looked for, as the chances
are that one or other of the varieties will produce
blooms right through the season. The above
illustration shows a bed planted in this way ;
Caroline Testout and La France planted alternately
with ramblers dowTi the centre, and bordered with
White Pet. The other illustration depicts borders

LA I R,\NCE AND CAROLINE TESTOUT PLANTED ALTERNATELY WITH RAMBLERS INTERVENING.

of light-coloured varieties, which bloom con-
tinuously right away through the season and were
producing last November tirst-class blooms.

The dainty little China Roses, too, lend them-
selves admirably for the purpose of producing
a continuous and pleasing effect, and a mixtiu'e of
Comtesse du Cayla, Chin Chin China, Mme. Eugfene
Rcsal and Laurette Messimy (the last two in
the centre of the bed), carpeted with some pale,
contrasting coloured Viola, will delight the eye
for months for a fraction of the trouble necessary
to keep ordinary bedding plants in good trim,
and the wonder is that we still continue to use
the latter as we do when we can get such a variety
of pleasing combinations with the sweet-smelling
and varied coloured Roses.

. The colours of many of our hardy herbaceous
plants associate well with those of Roses, but
care must be taken that no " self-assertive " colours,
but only the quiet soft ones are used. Scarlet, or
bright red especially, should never be planted
where they can be seen at the same time as the
Roses.

The distance apart for planting must be regulated
with an eye to the future, the weaker-growing ones
(especially if no " carpet ' is intended) being placed
rather closely together, only allowing sufficient
space for the hoe to be worked, while the
stronger varieties should be allowed more room
and pruned rather sparingly. J. B. Clark requires
quite 9 square feet for each plant, Griiss an Teplitz
(one of our sweetest Roses) the same, and neither
of them should be pruned beyond
taking out the old wood and slightly
shortening back the young. The same
may be said of most of the strong,
vigorous varieties. R, B. L.

BOkULkS Ol- LlGHl-COLOUKLU KUbLb Al VVUOU HALL, DULWICH.

ROSES TO GROW AS
LARGE SHRUBS.

IN the search for fresh el^ccts in
the Rose garden, the use of
the larger bush or shrub Roses
must not be overlooked. We
know how in the last few years
the introduction of ramblers as
weeping standards has changed the
aspect of Rose gardening. Similarly, by
the use of the larger shrub Roses we
may obtain effects of a wider colour
range and more varied habit. Even
some of the wichuraiana Roses used
as standards are perhaps more success-
ful if used as bushes. Kinds such as
Paul Transon, Ariel, Robert Craig and
others with their upright growth make
big, bold pillars ; and Gcrbe Rose is,
with its glossy foliage, an almost ideal
bush, often blooming again in autumn.
It is to the perpetual-flowering kinds we
must look most, for the older kinds,
such asAndersonijthe Damasks and the
Austrian Briars, pretty in their way,
arc not things of beauty in the autumn.

516

THE GARDEN.

[OCTOBfiR II, 1913,

being only summer-flowering. Tlie Austrians,
however, have recently given us autumn-flowering
hybrids which are well suited for this pur-
pose. Through Soleil d'Or have been obtained
Juliet, the beautiful and distinct Beaute de Lyon,
and Louis Barbier, and doubtless there are others
to follow. A tall-growing Rayon d'Or would be
an achievement indeed. The rugosas, too, are
autumn-blooming. Conrad F. Meyer is an almost
perfect Rose grown in this way, and Blanc
Double de Coubert and atropurpurea are hardly
less suitable.

By entering into the large and comprehensive
class of Hybrid Teas we also find some which are
shrub kinds. Griiss an Teplitz with
its cascades of flower, its offspring
Hugh Dickson, and J. B. Clark
form a trio of similar foliage and
habit. There is a Rose, Mme.
Wagram C. de Turenne, included
in this class which is essentially
a Bourbon, derived from Souvenir
de la Malmaison and crossed,
it is said, with a Dijon Tea — let us
hope with the old Gloire de Dijon,
for it would be pleasant to know of
the successful marriage of two such
old favourites. It is most distinct
in foliage and general appearance,
and flowers well into the autunm.
.illusion to the Dijons reminds us
of Bouquet d'Or and Mme. B&ard,
both making big bushes; and
the' same may be said of William
Allen Richardson.

It is to the Noisettes and other
Musk hybrids, in fact, that we must
look in the future, for it is among
these that the desired qualities
lie. The white and pink forms
of Pissardii are both shrub Roses,
and so are Aimee Vibert and
Alister Stella Gray. All these,
however, are well known, but
there are some later introductions
which can be instanced as distinct
advances in this direction. Trier,
the first of these, was followed by
Adrian Riverschon, with large
trusses of single flowers, rose, with
white eye, now (on September 12)
in fiillest bloom and about four feet
high. It is a new colour in the
Musks, and well worthy of culti-
vation in the bush form.

Much praise must be given
to Mr. Pemberton's beautiful
novelties Daphne, Danae and
Moonlight, which received such
high awards from the National
Rose Society. The last two,
so well exhibited at the recent
autumn Rose show, are destined
to a prominent place in the Rose garden, and
I think their true place is here among the shrub
Roses.

I will conclude the list by naming Zephyrine
Drouhin as distinct and beautiful grown in this
way. Standing smgly upon lawns and extended into
shrubberies, these Roses have a charm peculiarly
their own, while planted in the wild garden they,
with their masses of bloom, and in some cases
berries, enliven and enhance the scene, especially
when in proximity to autumn foliage and
surroundings. G. L. Paul.

THE BEST ROSES
PERGOLAS.

FOR

IN making a selection of the most suitable
Roses for a pergola, I would like to confine
the list to varieties of the wichuraiana
type, because they possess all the attributes
that go to make a successful pergola display.
The objection to this method of classification
is that this section does not flower until the middle
of July, and oftentimes later, whereas some of the
varieties in other sections open their blossoms quite
early in the season — for example, Carmine Pillar

THE NEW
MESSRS.

GOLD TMEDAI, ROSE MRS. JAMES LYNAS, RAISED BY
HUGH DICKSON, LIMITED. COLOUR, RICH BLUSH PINK.

in June — and thus we get a longer and more mter-
esting flowering period. With the object, then,
of catering for all periods of flowering, I make
the selection more of a general character. Although
Roses have increased enormously of late, we are
still without a good yellow climber after Aglaia and
Claii-e Jacquier are over. I am often asked to
name a yellow to flower at the same time as Dorothy
Perkins. I confess I do not know of one that I
can recommend. Of white-flowered varieties,
too, there is a dearth at the same period. If it
were not for White Dorothy, we should be quite

without a late-flowering variety. I will, then,
as briefly as possible, enumerate two dozen of the
most suitable, leaving planters to make their own
selection of a few or many, giving the points of
excellence of each as they open in order.

Carmine Pillar (Paul and Son, 1896) produces
its large, single flowers in profusion ; rosy carmine.
Brunonis, the Himalayan Briar, has pure white,
single flowers with yellow stamens, produced m
the greatest profusion quite early, giving a most
pleasing perfume.

Aglaia (Lambert and Reiter, rSge) is often
called the Yellow. Rambler. In colour it is pale
yellow, with a strong Tea' perfume. Its shell-
shaped petals last a long time.
This Rose does not come readily
into flower in quantity until it
becomes established, and often,
owing to mistakes in pruning, it
has been condemned as a shy-
flowering variety ; but I can
assure my readers it is not so
when properly treated, allowing the
long, -vigorous shoots to remain
unpruned.

Claire Jacquier (Bemaix, r888),

nankeen yellow, very free, sweetly
perfumed and with deep green

foliage.

Mme. Alfred Cafriere (Schwartz,
1879). — The buds are delicate
pink, the fully-expanded blooms
pure white.

Crimson Rambler (Turner,
1893) is still unequalled for
brilliancy of colouring and freedom
of flowering ; but, unfortunately,
it is so susceptible to mildew,
except when great care is exer-
cised in Its cultivation.

Mrs. F. W. Flight (Flight,
1905), rose pink with white
centre ; semi-double. The trusses
are produced in huge clusters.
This Rose probably lasts longer
in flower than any other ; it is
of sturdy growth.

Tea Rambler (Paul and Son,
1902), coppery pink, with a salmon
flush.

Blush Rambler (B. R. Cant and
Sons, 1903) is of extra strong
growth, producing its huge trusses
of rich blush, white-centred flowers
freely.

American Pillar (Conrad, igog).
— If it were possible to say which
is the most showy Rose in the
whole section of climbing varieties,
I should name this. In growth it is
very vigorous, single shoots running
up as much as 16 feet in one season,
which the following year give huge
crops ot bloom, as many as twenty flowers in a
cluster. In coluur crimson, with a pure white eye.
Paul's Single White (G. Paul and Son) is a
vigorous-grov/ing, free-flowering variety, giving
its pure white, single flowers in abundance.

Flame (Turner, igrs), bright salmon pink,
produced in huge clusters ; strong, vigorous
growth.

Debutante (Walsh, r903) produces its long
racemes of rosy pink blooms freely, and owing to
the manner m which they droop, are specially
suited for a pergola.

October ii, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

517

Evangeline (Walsh, 1907) i? a hybrid wichu-
raiana, growing freely and giving huge
quantities of its white-centred, pink-tipped single
flowers.

Francois Juranville (Barbier, 1906) gives large
flowers often singly as well as in clusters, and is
continuous in flowering ; bright salmon pink
with an orange base.

Sweetlieart (M. H. Walsh, 1903) is quite the
best of white climbers of the wichuraiana type.
In bud the colour is pale pink, changing to pure
white as the flowers expand. The blooms are quite
double and sweetly perfumed.

Minneliaha {Walsh, 1905), dark rose, quite
double, sweetly scented. The blooms are some-
what widely set apart, which gives the plant a
distinct character.

Dorothy Perkins (Perkins, 1902) is still one
of the most suitable for pergolas, givmg its soft
light pink flowers in great abimdance.

Lady Gay (Walsh, 1903) is so often confused with
Dorothy Perkins that many people have come to

L regard them as being identical, which they are not.

I Lady Gay has cherry pink flowers much larger
than Dorothy Perkins, while the trusses, too,
are larger and the flowers more widely set
apart.

f Dorothy Dennison (Dennison, igog) is identical

with Christian Curie and Lady Godiva. It is a
shell pink sport from Dorothy Perkins, having all
the desirable characteristics of its parent in growth
and freedom ol flower.

Excelsa (Walsh, 1909) is best described as a
scarlet Dorothy Perkins. In colour it is the most
brilliant of all, growing freely and blooming in
the same manner.

I Hiawatha (Walsh, 1905) is a brilliant scarlet,

f single-flowered variety, producing its lasting
flowers in freedom.

Coronation (Turner, 1912), bright crimson,
shaded scarlet, splashed with small white streaks ;
of free growth and flowering.

White Dorothy (Paul and Son and B. R. Cant,
igo8) is a white sport from Dorothy Perkins.
Unfortunately, the colour is not pure, having
here and there splashes of pink. In any case it
is desirable, flowering as it does quite late in the
season.

The remarks on cultivation will be necessarily
brief. Deeply-trenched, heavily-manured, stiff soil
fully a month before planting to allow the soil to
settle dovn\ to near its natural level is all that is
required in preparation. Planting is best done at
the end of October, as fresh roots will then be

I made in the autumn, thus giving the plants a
good start in the spring.

Pruning the first year is important. Planters
like to have a full crop of flowers the first season.
This, or a partial crop, can be secured from some
varieties ; but it is not wise to allow the plants
to do so, as the growth made then is not so strong
as is desirable to cover the pergola quickly, which
is the object to aim at. It is wise, then, under
these conditions to cut the plants down in the
spring to within a foot or so of the soil, to induce
the growth of strong basal shoots, which will give
a full flower crop the next year. Another plan to
treat plants with several shoots is to cut half of
them severely and allow the remainder to give
flowers at once, simply removing the top of each
shoot so retained. The second year and after-
wards cut away all small growth that has given
a flower crop, if abundance of new shoots from the

' base has been made. This pruning is best done

directly the flowers have faded, thus giving more
light and air to the remaining shoots.

Feeding the plants to maintain vigorous growth
is important. Sometimes manure cannot easily
be added to the soil. In that case liquid manure
applied freely during the growmg season is bene-
ficial, and so are sprinklings of soot applied to the
surface during showery weather, or any of the
artificial manures advertised applied judiciously.
Green fly is quite the greatest pest Roses have
to contend with in the spring. If the plants become
infested with this aphis, the growth is checked
and the season's flower crop spoilt. Prompt
measures should be taken directly the first fly
appears. I have found nothing better than
McDougall's " Katakilla," which is so simple of
application and effective.

In forming a pergola, so many persons make the
mistake of having it too low ; 7 feet I recently
saw one. This height does not allow of the flower-
sprays hanging dowii in comfort, which is the
charm of all pergolas and the natural tendency
of climbing Roses, especially of the wichuraiana
type. No pergola to be satisfactory should be less
than 8 feet high, the same width, and that distance
from post to post.

Swanmore. E. Molyneu.x.

IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.

SOME OF THE NEWER ROSES.

THE year 1913 will not go down to posterity
as an annus mirabilis in Rose annals,
for the Clerk of the Weather, that
presiding genius of the feast, has not
been too kind, and has distributed
his favours with somewhat too partial
a hand to please all or even the majority of us ;
and while some of my friends have called it a dry
summer, others complain that there has not been
enough sun, and that mildew has been very preva-
lent ; but the more favoured ones have not had
much cause to complain, and the South and East
of England have had a good Rose year. At any
rate, in this neighbourhood we have had, and are
still having, one of the finest summers I remember.
There have been no extremes of heat. On the
contrary, though fine, it has been a cool summer,
and Roses have benefited accordingly. As I
write, in the last days of September, not ordy are
there plenty of flowers, but the promise of many
more to come is even more apparent, and only
Jack Frost is likely to prevent their coming to
bloom and brighten the November and December
days.

This is, after all, the feature of the newer
Roses. Much as the hybridist has improved
colour, form and scent, his greatest advance has
been in evolving a type of Rose that combines
all these three most desirable attributes with an
enhanced length of flowering period, almost in
some cases continuous, so that the plant carries
flowers all the time from May until December.
Although I have headed this article " In a Hamp-
shire Garden," I shall not absolutely confine
myself to only those Roses that are growing therein ;
for new Roses are now so numerous that even
our largest trade growers are hard put to it to
find room for them, and it is obvious my small
garden, of less than half an acre, cannot contain
more than a selection of the best, so that I shall
find myself referring in these notes to Roses seen
in the tented field, the lofty hall, the nursery

grounds of our great Rose-growers, and where,
I venture to think, they are at their best — in the
gardens of those who love them. Still, I am firmly
convinced that it is but little one can know of
Roses if you have not grown them, and I shall
always indicate this absence of the soundest basis
on my part Another reason why X have headed
these notes " In a Hampshire Garden " is that 1
do not want them to be misleading, and if I am
led to recommend a Rose because of its behaviour
with me, it does not necessarily follow it will
behave in the same fashion in the North of England.
It is only another illustration of the truth of the
saying that the best knowledge is that gained
by one's own experience. The great secret of all
successful gardening is to find out what you can
grow, and grow it. We are all constituted much
on the same plan, but our elevations are varied ;
and while one garden enthusiast seems to turn
his garden into a kind of hospital where all the
inmates are patients, each undergoing a course
of treatment and mostly barely existing, another,
equally enthusiastic, will not have anything to
do with a delicate subject. If it is not robust
and enjoying its life to the full, seemingly making
the very best of what the gods provide, out it comes,
to make room for something that will. In my own
case, if I have any leanmgs, it is towards the latter
of these two, and where one's space is limited it
seems to me that one gets more satisfaction ;
but it is not so with everyone. They prefer a
tender plant that must be coddled and protected
to one that will look after itself and cause no
anxiety. That is, perhaps, one reason why I '
grew but few Tea Roses till I came South. Here
they can take care of themselves and get very
little different treatment from the rest of the
Roses ; but a Tea Rose that is healthy and robust
and strong down here is a very different subject
further North.

Perhaps before settuig down in detail the descrip-
tions of the newer Roses, it might be advisable
to take a general survey of the Roses of the year
and just mention a few that have seemed to stand
out partly from their own intrinsic merits, or from
the climatic conditions at the moment having
suited them. It is not necessary to divide them
into classes. I will mention them as they occur
to me. It is a very long time since a Rose dis-
tributed one year proceeds in the next season
to occupy such a prominent position as George
Dickson has this year. It is undoubtedly entitled
to be called the finest exhibition Rose of its colour,
and among exhibitors that are keen, few would
care to be without it. Not only the raisers, Messrs.
Alex. Dickson and Sons of Newtownards, but at
one time or another all the big growers seem to
have been able to produce iine flowers of this
variety, and those amateurs who were fortunate
enough to secure plants or buds of it last season
have been able to show very fine flowers throughout
the year. Most of the flowers shown have actually
come from maidens, but it has been quite good with
me on cut-backs ; it is a good grower, with fine
constitution, and not subject to mildew. I do not
mean to say it is mildew-proof, but it has been
practically free from mildew with me. It has
stood out, so that if 1913 could be labelled, as
Rose years sometimes are labelled, with the name
of any particular Rose, I think it might fairly be
described as a " George Dickson year."

Among other Hybrid Teas that have been
particularly good on the show-bench, one would
name Avoca, Dean Hole, J. L. Mock, Mrs. Com-
wallis-West, Lady Alice Stanley, Mabel Drew,

518

THE GARDEN.

[October ii, 1913.

Mrs. A. E. Coxhead and Mrs. J. H. Welch, and we
have seen more of John Ruskin, William Shean,
Dr. O'Donel Browne and Yvonne Vacherot than
usual.

Hybrid Perpetuals have been very iine in colour ;
the cool weather has suited them. Messrs. B. R.
Cant's second-prize stand in the trophy class at
Gloucester stood out in this respect. Gloire de
Chedane Guinoisseau, Hugh Dickson, Horace
Vernet and Victor Hugo have all been good ;
but some of the older favourites that used to be
in every box were missing this year. Roses like
Ulrich Brunner, Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford
and Captain Hayward were seldom seen, and that
old stand-by, Mrs. John Laing, has been con-
spicuous only by its absence, and very few silver
medals have fallen to its lot. Speaking generally.
Teas throughout the country have not been good
or up to the usual standard. The two Cochets,
Mrs. Edward Mawley and Souv. de Pierre Notting

THE BEST ROSES FOR
PEGGING DOWN.

P

ERHAPS before giving a list of the best
Roses for pegging down, I may just
say a word or two upon the system
and its advantages. Some reader
may ask the question : " Why do
you peg down Roses, seeing there
are such a number of good varieties of compact
habit that will grow quite evenly without this
artificial aid ? " and my reply to this would be that
we should be forced to exclude certain kinds that
one would much desire to have, only that their
exuberant growth bars them from being associated
with ordinary bedding Roses. Talie, for instance,
a bed of William Allen Richardson. It provides
us with a glorious rich orange colour, as a rule,
but imless pegged down it is very apt to appear

PART OF A BED OF ROSE LADY VVATERLOW, THE SHOOTS OF WHICH HAVE BEEN PEGGED DOWN

have almost tailed us. I should say Mrs. Foley
Hobbs is entitled to be called the best Tea of the
year. Mme. Constant Soupert has been more
frequently exhibited than usual. W. R. Smith,
A. Hill Gray, Molly Sharman Crawford and Mrs.
Herbert Taylor have all been good. Mrs. Myles
Kennedy has been often conspicuous ; but it has
not been a good Tea year.

Southampton. Herbert E. Molyneux.

{To be continued.)

NEW ROSE MRS. JAMES LYNAS (H.T.).

Os page 516 appears an illustration of this new
Rose, shown by Messrs. Hugh Dickson, Limited,
Belfast, at the National Rose Society's Loudon
Show in July last. It is a beautiful Hybrid Tea,
of erect habit, the colour of the blooms being rich
blush pink overlying silvery white. It is one of
the best of the gold medal Roses of the season.

ungainly. Another splendid and almost indispens-
able variety is Frau Karl Druschki. Here, again,
its vigour is too often quite embarrassing, and
unless annually lifted it must be pegged down.
Alister Stella Gray is seen to great advantage when
pegged down, and there are several strong yellow
Roses, usually classed as climbers, that are verj-
effective when pegged down, producing shades of
colour much needed among bedding varieties.

Good crimson Roses, too, are still scarce for
massing, and if we can employ such as Hugh
Dickson, Sarah Bernhardt, Griiss an Teplitz and
Florence Haswell Veitch for this purpose, they
would be warmly welcomed ; but to use such Roses
as bedders without pegging them down would
make them quite out of harmony with other
bedders.

Generally speaking, it is the strong young growths
that are the best for pegging down. Supposing

one intended pegging down a bed of Frau Karl
Druschki, the plants would be pruned hard in the
spring, similar to ordinary Hybrid Perpetuals.
The young, vigorous growths as they appear and
are long enough are just bent over almost horizon-
tally about a foot from the soil, attaching them to
unobtrusive wood or zinc pegs placed at convenient
positions. The quantity of bloom from this Rose
when pegged down is easily trebled. As regards the
Climbing Teas, Hybrid Teas and Noisettes, I would
suggest that one or two good ripened young growths
of the previous year be retained about three feet to
four feet long at pruning-time, and as soon as
all danger from May frosts has gone, bend the
shoots down as advised above. As the young
growths appear from the base of the plants, peg
these down also, unless they show flower-buds,
in which case allow them to grow erect. William
Allen Richardson, Bouquet d'Or, Mme. Pierre
Cochet and Celine Forestier will usually send up
growths in late summer from their
base that are crowned with buds
when but 2 feet or 3 feet high.
This is when the plants have
been previously pegged down in
spring. It is advisable to pinch
out the ends of the new growths
when they have grown about a
yard, in order to ripen them and
to encourage bloom. Roses of the
somewhat erratic growth of Mme.
Abel Chatenay and Joseph Hill may
be partially pegged down ; that
IS to say, those shoots that start
growing so vigorously in a slanting
position. Just bend them down
almost horizontally. They will not
only break into new growth them-
selves, but basal eyes are encouraged
to start out also.

Polyantha Roses of the Orleans
and Jessie type often grow too tall
for their positions. A simple remedy
for this IS to peg down the young
growths. Each year in late autumn
some of the pegged-down growths
may be cut away when all flowers
are over, or the work can be
deferred until spring ; but our object
should always be to encourage
young basal growth, and thus keep
the plant in a juvenile condi-
tion. For the same reason that we
peg down bush Roses, standards
may have their growths tied over
umbrella fashion, and the result will
be far more bloom, although this is sometimes
deferred until the second year. The illustra-
tion on this page depicts a large bed of that
charming variety Lady Waterlow, which is
so well suited for pegging down. Good varieties
for this purpose, in addition ^to those already
named, are Boule de Neige, Billiard et Barre,
Crepuscule, Gustave Regis, Climbing Mrs. W. J.
Grant, Francois Crousse, Conrad F. Meyer,
Nova Zembla, J. B. Clark, Juliet, Beaute
de Lyon, Ulrich Brunner, Tom Wood, General
Jacqueminot, Paul Neyron, Charles Lefebvre,
George Dickson, Johanna Sebus, King George V.,
Mrs. Comwalhs-West, Mme. Wagram, Lyon
Rose, Zephyrine Drouhin, Aimfe Vibert k
iieurs jaune, Bardou Job, Avoca, Fairy, Lina
Schmidt-Michel, Mme. H. Leuilliot, Belle Lyon-
naise, Papillon and Rosette de la Legion

d'Honneur.

Danecroft.

OrroBFR II, 1013.]

THE GARDEN.

519

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

PERGOLAS, TRELLISES AND ARCHES FOR ROSES.

LIMBING Roses, however strong-
•irowing some of the varieties may
he, require substantial supports on
which to train tlie branches if they
are to prove satisfactory. Although
substantial supports are needed, it
.Lies not fellow that they must be clumsy in appear-
irue. Strength may be secured by using really

excellent designs in ironwork are now offered by
one or two firms which make a speciality of this
kind 'if wink.

Mistakes to Avoid. —The greatest mistake to
I avoid, after duly preparing the posts and other
1 necessary tinrber, is that of fixing the posts too

CLIMBING Roses, however strong- . purchased from ads-ertisers in The Garden, but
growing some of the varieties may readers will do well to avoid cheap, flimsy structures
be, require substantial supports on that .nv nffered by dealers i.f liad reputation,
which to train the branches if they Good Positions for Pergolas, Trellises and
,u-e to iirove satisfactory. Although | Arches. — Th<- pergola should be straight and run

at rigiit angles from some central point or building.

Branching portions of the pergola should also be ] close together and too low. The width of th-
at right angles. Trellises must be erected to form pergola or arch should be at least 6 feet 6 inches ;
lif;ht limbers if the latter are properly prepared and an ornamental screen or shelter to some quarter but if there is ample space, make it 7 feet 6 inches
iiected in a manner to form a neat-looking structure, of the g,irden — a screen' for the protection of other or even 8 feet, and quite 7 feet high, because the

Suitable versus Unsuitable Wood.— Rustic kinds of plants than Roses, or for beds of dwarf branches of the Roses, wlien the latter zr.
trellises and other kinds ni strn. lures are erected i or standard Roses, or to secure privacy for the lished, will require much space to
in gardens in vast numbers now, and for

a time — usually about three years —
these erections look very well ; then
they sinrply tumble down when a strong
f;,de blows. Green wood, chiefly Birch
,uid Beech, is used. The Birch rots,
niwardly first, and then crumbles away ;
the Beech becomes useless through fungus
growing on it and through decay. Such
timber, even when of great initial
strength, is useless for our purpose.
Indeed, it is very annoying to find the
structure falling down just when the
branches of the plants have covered it,
,is it is such a difficult matter to erect
another under the branches. Oak, Ash

irid Hazel are the best kinds to use
iiir arches, pergolas, &c. These timbers
l.ist a long time, especially when nicely
siasoned and prepared. Then squared
l».sts with caps on and planed laths

1 just medium strength find much favour
in these days for formal trellises and
pergolas. Here, again, strength may be
-rrured if the posts arc well prepared
■ lud the whole of the wood well saturatid
with rroos'ite.

How the Timber Should be Prepared.—

It is bad policy to use green wood full
of sap, or to creosote timber saturated
with water. Give the laths and plaiud
posts two coats of creosote. The liquid
will go right through the laths, and the
portion above the ground, being exposed
to the drying winds as well as rains,
lasts in good condition for many years,
because it dries up soon after rain has
fallen. It is far more important to pre-
pare the part of each post that is buried in
the soil. Some are content to creosote
portion, others to char it. The charring is the
most effectual, as simply crcosoting will not do.
The best plan is to first char and then apply three
coats of creosote. The charring dries up all
internal moisture as well as rendering the outside
part proof against decay. Much mischief results
when there is internal moisture, as no matter
how well the outer crust is preserved, the inner
portion will continue to decay. While in a dry
state the creosote penetrates right through an
ordinary-sized post. Both the charring and
creosoting should be done several weeks prior
to the fixing of the posts in the soil. .\lso, char
each post several inches above the groimd-level,
as very often posts rot off there while the portion
helow remains sound. Some good ready-made
rnstic arches or trellis fences can now be

■jstab-
row m, and
persons should be able to pass through the
pergola or arch without the slightest
inconvenience. Moreover, they ought to be
able to enjoy to the full the manifold
beauties of each variety of Rose grown.

.\

RUSTIC ROSE .\RCH OT GOOD PKOPOKTIOXS. THE
POSTS ARE 4 FEET 6 INCHES .\P.\RT E.\CII \V.\Y,
AND THE HEIGHT OVER ALL S FEET.

that

owner. Arches ought to be built in positions
to denote a path leading to scmte other part of the
garden, to break up a line of trellis, to span paths
where they meet, or to form a series of arches
over a long path where it would not be advisable
to erect a more close-fitting structure such as a
pergola. They must always be of broad dimensions
and lofty. Umbrella-shaped erections look really
charming in a Rose garden or as isolated features
on a lawn. There are many quick-growing varie-
ties of Roses that will soon cover such a structure,
and then a feature is secured quite distinct from
others in the same garden. .Although iron trellises
and pergolas are often condemned, they are very
useful in Southern Counties where very severe
frost is not experienced. At Kew the Roses
flourish on iron posts and chains, which have the
advantage of being almost imperishable. Some

HOW TO RETAIN SOIL
MOISTURE.

Soil moisture is the most important fea-
ture of all in gardening, because the
power of imparting moisture to the
plant is indispensable. Vet tlie ele-
mentary laws which govern it seem
to be much misunderstood by amateurs,
or, at any rate, often neglected. .Much
more is now known about the physics,
of the soil than was formerly the case,
and the fineness or coarseness of the soil
particles and their composition is found
10 Vie intimately connected with this most
important subject. This part of the busi-
ness is where so many people fail. Sur-
face mulching is now well understood as
.1 means of keeping in moisture ; but
the ground work is even more impor-
lant, because on it depends whether a
soil will store and hold water or not, and
there is an enormous difference between
^oils in this respect.

It may surprise some growers to learn
that the wettest soil does not always
supply the most moisture to a crop.
It is not merely the water content of
the soil which has to be considered, but
its power of giving this up to plants
which is so important. We know that
the saturation power cf the soil depends
partly upon the spaces left between
the soil particles, but more especially in their
size, and that in an ordinary soil these amount
to as much as about forty per cent, of the whole.
But this can be much increased if chalk or vege-
table matter or good loam forms a certain portion
of the soil.

What the cultivator wants is a soil that will give
up its water as well as retain a good quantity, a
happy medium between clay or peat and sand, and
this he should strive to make if it does not exist
naturally. Manure or vegetable matter is the most
serviceable stuff to use, generally speaking, and some
powdered chalk is useful if deficient in the soil.
A fine soil should be aimed at, and drainage
is all-important, because, after all, soils are most
fertile when they are only about half saturated,
or rather more, and air and heat can then
get in. Gerv.mse Turnbull, F.L,S.

520

THE GARDEN.

[OCTOKKR IT, TOT 3

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Planting Beds: — When beds are to be planted
with bulbs as well as with a covering plant, such
as Myosotis, Arabis and Violas, it is wise to plant
the bulbs first.

Covering Plants, such as mentioned above, should
not be planted too thickly, or the bulbs as they come
through may be spindly in growth. Many subjects
may be used, such as Primroses, Polyanthuses,
Wallflowers, Aubrietias. Arabis flora plena and
the variegated form. Viola seedlings, 1 find,
are more hardy, and make the best show early
in the season ; but, whatever is used, due con-
sideration must be given so that the plants when
in flower either harmonise or pleasantly contrast
with the bulbs.

Double Planting is sometimes practised to
secure a longer season of flower, and where the
varieties are carefully selected, the results are indeed
pleasing. Thus early-flowering, Darwin, or May-
flowering Tulips may be planted alternately, and in
the same way Hyacinths and a late variety of
Narcissus. I have also seen Crocuses, Hyacinths
and late-flowering TuUps form a succession which
proved very effective. Crocus Maximilian (a
delicate shade of lavender) is one of the most
beautiful subjects for the early spring garden.

Tlie Herbaceous Border. — There still remain a
few subjects in bloom, but in most cases the
plants are now in a fit condition for cutting down ;
in fact, the border should now be thoroughly gone
over, pulling up all the annuals, cutting down
all matured foliage and growth of the herbaceous
plants, and lifting anything that it is desirable
to keep from getting frozen. Some of the more
tender subjects are best given a little protection
over the crowns, and dry ashes and leaf-soil are
both useful for the purpose.

Replanting. — There is a great diversity of
opinujn as to the best time to transplant the
ViU'ious subjects in the herbaceous border, though
we are all agreed that borders do better when lifted
every second or third season, and many subjects
may be lifted and split up every year with advan-
tage. The nature of the soil, I think, should
govern the time when it may be done. On light
soils it may be done at any time from October
to March, preference being given to the autumn
months, as then the plants get well established
again and are better able to withstand drought.
On heavier and colder soils the early spring, 1
think, is better, as many subjects if split up and
replanted in the autumn will die during the winter,
there not being the same tendency to make roots
quickly in the cold, heavy soil ; while if a fairly
dry period in late b'ebruary or March is selected in
which to do the work, the chances are that the plants
will make root and grow away fairly quickly. At
whatever season the work is done, good, deep
trenching should be practised and a liberal dressing
of well-rotted manure given to the borders ; this
will greatly modify the need for watering during
the summer months.

Sweet Peas should be sown at once for the
ordinarv summer flowering out of doors. Pots
or boxes mav be used at the discretion of the
grower, placiiig them in a cold frame after sowing.
This should be kept well ventilated as soon as
the seedlings are through the soil.

Plants Under Glass.

Stove Plants generally will not now require so
much moisture either at the root or overhead,
Dracasnas especially not caring for this latter during
the winter months '; but as the necessity arises for
more fire-heat, the need for damping the stages,
beds and floors will also increase, this to mamtain
the necessary atmospheric moisture to keep down
insect pests.

Acalypbas that may have become unsightly
through using them in the conservatory or the house
should be cut down, retaining sufficient of the
cut-down plants to furnish a supply of cuttings
for the spring.

Cinerarias. — These are making rapid growth,
and should be spaced out in the houses or pits
as they require it. If it is desired to make really
large specimen plants, a few of the strongest
mav be potted on again ; but g-inch pots are
large enough for any purpose.

The Kitchen Garden.

Preparing the Ground. — After this date there
will be no further planting to do, and as the various
plots of ground are cleared they may be prepared
for digging or trenching, the latter for preference.
The rubbish-yard, where there has been a fire
off and on all the season, will no doubt yield
a good supply of wood-ashes and bunit earth,
and if this is wheeled on while the weather is dry,
trenching may be commenced as soon as the men
are freed from other work.

Old Hot-Bed Manure may also be wheeled on
to the ground, or may be stored under an old shed,
where it may be turned and mixed with soil during
bad weather, when it will be ready for the making
np of frames for early crops or for the hundred-and-
one purposes for which A good, rich compost is
so jiecessary.

Fruits Under Glass.

Peach-Houses and Vineries. — In many estab-
lishments these will be filled with such plants
as Chrysanthemums, and, providing proper care
is taken, much harm may not result ; but at all
times a close, moist atmosphere must be avoided,
also undue heating of the hot-water pipes must be
guarded against. A small amoiuit of heat in tin-
pipes will be beneficial rather than detrimental,
providing a full measure of air is admitted at the
sides as well as at the tops of the houses. A
temperature high enough to raise the sap in the
Vines or Peach trees before the proper time is
what must be guarded against, or the growth in
the early stages next season will not be all that is
desired.

Tomatoes that are setting their fruit must be
carefully gone over each day with a camel-hair
brush or rabbit's tail. At' this season over-
watering must be strictly avoided, or sappy growth
will result. The temperature of the house also
must be kept fairly even ; 55° to 60° at night,
with a crack of air on, should be about right,
allowing a moderate rise during the day when the
sun is shining, giving as much air as is consistent
with the existing weather conditions.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wobiiin Place Gardens, Addleslone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Lifting Gladioli. — (iladioli flowered earlier than
usual this season and are now past. Cut away
all flower-stems, lift the plants carefully, and store
them in boxes in a shed, covering the bulbs with
sand or some light soil till the stems die down by ,i
natural process.

Lifting Montbretias. — Equally successful culti-
vators differ m their methods with these fine autumn
flowers. Some lift them and run them out close
in nurserv lines in a sheltered spot, working in
a little light soil among the bulbs as the work
proceeds ; while others box them up in propagating-
boxes among flaky soil and winter them in a shed
or a cold frame. The following is my method :
I pot them up into 6-inch pots in light, flaky soil,
about five bulbs to a pot, and winter them in a cold
frame ; they are hardened off in early spring
after growth' commences, and are planted about
the middle of April. This means a little extra
trouble, but the results amply justify the means.

Lifting Tender Subjects. — In addition to those

indicated, all tender or half-hardy subjects should
either be lifted or protected where they are. Such
things as Heliotropes and Salvias, if sufficient
stock has not been propagated successfully, should
have a portion of the plants cut over and potted up
to furnish cuttings for spring propagation.

The Rose Garden.

Hoeing. — Rmi the Dutch hoe through the beds
and borders to rid them of any weeds and to keep
the soil aerated. Beds or borders which have
had a groundwork of Violas should now have these
removed, and the soil be rather deeply stirred with
the hoe.

Late Blooms. — Free-flowering varieties, such as
Caroline Testout, often furnish a good deal of bloom
right up to November. Any decaying blooms coming
in contact with those unopened should be promptly
removed, or the latter will be damaged.

Gruss an TeplitZ.— This is the time when this
fine autumn Rose shows its superiority.

the Shrubbery.
Planting Evergreens.— This work should be
done as soon as possible, so that the plants
may get a hold before winter. If drying vrinds
should occur, newly-planted subjects will be bene-
fited by being sprayed over during the early after-
noon. The less hardy subjects should receive a
mulching ; this will help to maintain more equable
conditions at the root, both as regards moisture
and temperature, and it is a necessity where keen
frosts occurs.

Propagating Evergreens. — This is a good time

to propagate evergreen shrubs, and a suitable place
in which to put the cuttings is a cold frame behind a
wall, in which a layer of sandy soil has been placed
and made firm. Finish with a thin layer of sand.

Plants Under Glass.

Chrysanthemums. — If green fly appears, vaporise
at once. Stop feeding when the blooms are half
opened. Where exhibiting is contemplated, any
too precocious blooms should be shaded with tissue-
paper during bright sunshine.

Cinerarias. — Those intended for a spring display
will now be ready for the final shift. The siz'e
of pot will have been determined at previous pot-
tings. Cinerarias prefer a rather light, rich soil.
A cool house, near the glass, will be the best position
for them now. If the leaf-miner appears, spray
with Quassia Chips Extract, which makes the leaf
distasteful to the miner.

Sponging. — This is an important operation
among foliage plants, as it not oidy improves their
appearance, but rids the foliage of dust and dirt,
thereby enabling it the better to perform its func-
tions as the respiratory organs of the plant. Plants
having this attention now will lonk fresh and bright
during the dull days of winter.

Fruits Under Glass.

Late Peaches. — Trees that have not yet ripened
their wood should have the benefit of a little fire-
heat with a good deal of ventilation day and night,
the object being not to excite growth, but simply
to ripen the wood. Maintain dry atmospheric
conditions.

Pruning Vines. — Whenever the Vines become
defoliated, they should be pruned without delay.
As already advised, a sharp knife is preferable to
the secateurs for this work. One or two eyes are
sufficient tf) leave, therefore avoid leaving long snags.

Painting. — Any of the early houses requiring
the woodwork painted should have that attention
as soon as pruning has been finished. Later on
it is more difficult to get the woodwork quite dry,
a condition essential to the work being efficiently
done.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Propagating Gooseberries. — These and Currants
may now be propagated. Select fairly vigorous
but well-ripened shoots, and take them off with a
heel, cut aw'av a few inches of the immature
wood at the point, rub out a few of the lower buds,
and trim the base of the cutting with a sharp
knife. The cuttings should then be inserted i)'
sandy soil, m.'de firm, on the open border, ai:d
receive a good watering to ensure the exclusion
of air, a condition which will accelerate the process
of rooting.

Planting Loganberries. — Where a planting of

these is to take place, the ground should be manured
and trenched, and a trellis erected on which to train
the plants. I recommend a double trellis about
a foot wide, the fruiting canes being trained up
one side and the succession canes up the other,
these being transposed annually, of course.
Recently, however, I heard of a double trellis,
V-shaped, the fruiting canes being trained up each
side, the succession canes growing up the centre.

The Vegetable Garden.

Storing Root Crops. — Carrots and Beet should
now be stored withiiut much further delay, as
described in The Garden, September 27, page 489.

Digging and Trenching. — This work should

be carried out as opportunity offers. Autumn
manuring is preferable to spring manuring, and the
character and amount must depend upon the crop
for which it is intended, .\void rank manure where
tap- rooted crops are to be grown. Bastard-trenching,
by which the top spit is left in position, is preferable
to regular trenching. Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian,

m^'

GARDEN.

**?=:Z-

No. 2187.— Vol. LXXVII.

October 18, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes op the Week
i'orkespondence
An interesting New

Zealand garden . .
Virgilia lutca . .
The hardiness of

Nicotiana afBnis. .
Pruning K o s e

Dorothy Perkins
The Nerines , ,
The failure of Pears „_„
A noble border plant 523
Verbena venosa:

What is its eolour ?
Fortlicoming events..

GREENHOrsE

seasoimble notes on
Chrys.anthemu m s

THE CiMl-ANOI.AS OR

BELLFLOWERS . . 524

Rook and Water Garden
Autumn in the rock

garden . . . . 524
Kock [larden plants

in October . , . . 525

Hose Garden
In a Hampshire

garden 525

Roses of recent
introduction . . 528

521

523
523

523
523

523
523

523

Flower Garden
Dahlias for garden

effect 526

Trees and Shrubs
A beautiful Snow-
berry 527

Twelve useful shrubs
for walls . . . . 527
New and Rare

Plants 628

Gardening for Beginners
How to plant bush
fruits and Apples
and Pears . . . . 529
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 630

For Northern gar-
dens 530

Nursery Notes
WMU Tobacco pay in

England 1 .. .. 53)
Messrs. H. Merry-
weather and Sons 53]

ANSWERS TOCORBE-

SPONDfiNTS

Greenhouse . . . . 532

Fruit garden . . . . 532

Miscellaneous . . 532

E3)iT0K's Table . . 532

IliliUSTRATIONS.

View in a reader's garden at Dunedin, New Zealand 522

Campanula rotundifolia alpina 524

Campanula portenschlagiana bavarica . . 525

The decorative Dahlia Kaiserin .\ugusta Victoria . . 526

-\ beautiful Snowberry 527

The new Apple Guelph 528

How to plant bush fruits and .\pples and Pears . . 529

Tobacco-growing under glass 531

BDITORIAL NOTIGB8.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor ivelcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he toill not be responsible for their safe r'iturn. All
reasonable care, hotcever, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, li payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated
It 7nust be distinctly understood that only the actual photn-
qrapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor unll not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary cojitribittions which he may not be able to use, arui
the receipt of a proof ?nust rwt be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Piiblication in The Garden wili alone
he recognised as acceptance.

Offices: 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Treatment of Hardy Ferns.— Where hardy
Fems are grown, one often finds the fronds cut
off as they get brown, the idea being to make them
tidy. This is a great mistake as far as the plants
are concerned, as they act as a natural protection
to the crowns during the winter. In addition,
there is a certain amount of beauty in fronds that
have lost their bright green tints, as may be
seen in our woods in winter and early spring.

Edging for Planting Under Trees.— Few
plants are more suitable as an edging under trees
than the Ivy, and even in the open it is excellent
for an edging for the shrubbery or similar positions.
It gives little trouble after it is planted, apart
from being cut once or twice during spring and
early summer. It should be planted now, and
if it has long trails, so much the better. These
should be pegged down to keep them in their place.

Dwarf Scillas for Planting in the Grass.—
The value of planting bulbs in the grass is being
realised more and more every year, and among
the early-flowering ones few are more charming
than the dwarf Squills, Scilla bifolia and S
sibirica. Either by themselves or planted among
Snowdrops, they give a very pleasing effect. They
are not particular as to position, whether in
full Sim or partial shade ; but if planted in the
last named, they will be found to last much longer
in flower. Bulbs can be purchased quite cheaply,
and should be planted now without delay.

The Thornless Rose. — A few autumn blooms

of the Thornless Rose, Zephyrine Drouhin, remind
us that this charming variety is not grown nearly
so much as it ought to be. Considering that it
was raised so long ago as 1873, it is difficult to
imderstand why it is not foimd in more gardens.
The flowers are bright, glowing carmine pink in
colour and deliciously fragrant, inheriting this
latter desirable feature from the Bourbon Roses,
of which it is a hybrid. It is very vigorous, and
consequently makes an excellent pillar Rose,
or it may be used as a low garden hedge, where
light pruning only will be required. The stems
are thornless ; hence its popular name.

A Remarkable Graft Hybrid. — Commenting upon
the peculiarities of the graft hybrid Crataego-
mespilus Dardari, the current issue of the Kew
Bulletin says : " This graft hybrid shows a phe-
nomenon, unique so far as we are aware, of one
kind of tree (not as yet. however, one individual)
producing four types of growth, two of which are
distinct species and two of a hybrid or intermediate
nature, viz. : (i) Crata;gus monogyna and (2) Mes-
pilus germanica, the parent species ; (3) Crat.^go-
mespilus D'Asnieresii, hybrid approaching No. i ;
(4) CratEego-mespilus Dardari, hybrid approaching
No. 2. Laburnum Adami has not been known to
produce more than one hybrid type of flower
besides those of its two parent species (Laburnum
vulgare and Cytisus purpureus), three in all."

National Sweet Pea Society.— The annual
general meeting of the National Sweet Pea Society
will be held at the Hotel Windsor, Victoria Street,
Westminster, London, S.W., on Monday next,
October 20th, commencing at 2.30 p.m. A
conference will be held at the Hotel Windsor at
7 p.m. on the same day, when Mr. J. S. Brunton
will give a lecture, entitled "The Sweet Pea
Industry."

Mint for Winter Use.— This useful garden herb
is often ni demand during the winter, and although
a good supply of dried Mint may be at hand, green
leaves are always preferred. As forcing is a very
easy matter, there is no reason why fresh Mint
should not be obtained. Insert a quantity of
roots in a box at the present time and put them in
a warm place, keeping them watered. A succession
may be kept up by the introduction at intervals
of an additional supply of roots.

A Beautiful Water Lily. — Several plants of
the beautiful Australian Water Lily,' Nymphaea
gigantea, have been very attractive in the Victoria
Regia House at Kew for several months, and are
still (mid-October) bearing numerous fine flowers.
The plant may be described as a glorified N. stellata,
both leaves and flowers being finer than in that
species. The flowers, which range from 6 inches
to 8 inches across, are produced on stout stalks
12 inches or 18 inches above the water, and are
made up of numerous shapely, bright blue petals,
which enclose a central mass of rich golden
stamens.

A Beautiful Late-Flowering Torch Lily.—

Most of the Torch Lilies are at their best from
July to September, but there is one, Kniphofia
aloides maxima, which makes a delightful show
in October. Varieties such as this, which help
to prolong the flowering season and brighten up
the borders in late autumn with the Michaelmas
Daisy, are worth encouraging. Growing 5 feet
to 6 feet in height, the stout stems are carrying
quantities of small, tubular flowers. These, when
open, have a yellow effect ; but by far the most
telling colour is the coral red of the flower-buds,
of which in early October there are a great number
crowning the spikes.

Apple Blenheim Orange Fruiting on Young

Trees. — This excellent .Apple is often passed over
at planting-time, as it is reputed to be very slow
in coming into bearing. Instances have been cited
where trees have not borne fruit until attaining
the age of twenty years. While this may be true
of standard trees grown upon Crab stock, it cannot
apply to bush trees grown upon Paradise stock
and annually transplanted. Some exceptionally
fine examples of the latter were shown at the last
meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society by
Messrs. James Veitch and Sons. The trees in.
question, lifted from the open, were less thani
4 feel in height, and carried an average of twelve
handsome fruits per tree, while the age of the trees
was only four years !

522

THE GARDEN.

[October i8, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Rose Augustine Guinoisseau.— I had the

same experience last year that Mr. Cobbold has
had this (see page 482). One of the Augustine
Guinoisseau bushes threw a growth bearing two
typical La France Roses. I have been looking out
for the same irregularity this year, but it has not
occurred. The wood was week and was pruned
away this spring, and I regret now I did not bud
some stocks from it to see what would come. —
W. P. Panckridge, Petersfield.
Androsace lanuginosa for tlie Rock Garden. —

This is one among the many beautiful varieties
of Androsace that should be largely grown for the
rock garden, especially where the more tender or
difficult species fail to grow. It has been in bloom

the position I describe, I have never known them to
fail to flower abundantly. Covering a large portion
of a wall 60 feet high on a dwelling-house outside
of Cromer in Norfolk is a plant of this Rose with a
stem 5 inches in diameter, which must have been
planted quite early ; the variety was introduced
by Damper in 1823. Even this plant never fails
to give a crop of flowers. — E. M.

The War on Wasps. — I was very interested
in the war on wasps mentioned in your issue of
October 4. I thought you might be interested
to know what I have done in destroying these
pests. In 1910 our kitchen garden wall was
repaired and 300 queen wasps were killed in the
month of November. In 1911 I destroyed 245
nests, in igra 50 nests, and this season I have
taken 267 nests. I have never seen so many
wasps as we have had here this year. I have
killed 5r queen wasps and one hornet this last

A VIEW IN A READER S GARDEN AT DUNEDIN, NEW ZEALAND. IT WAS HERE THAT THE LATE
CAPTAIN SCOTT STAYED BEFORE STARTING ON HIS LAST VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH POLE.

since May and is still flowering, and will continue
to do so till the cold weather sets in, when it
requires a little shelter in the winter. Before
planting this the ground (stiff clay) was taken out
18 inches deep and filled in with suitable compost,
as given by Mr. Clarence Elliott for the moraine
garden. Not only this species, but several others
have been quite a success, especially through
the past dry summer, when otherwise they would
have been all scorched up. — A. B. Wadds,
Englefiehi Gardens^ Reading.

Yellow Banksian Rose. — If " C. T," page 482,
will remove his plant of Yellow Banksian Rose
to a south wall and give it generous treatment,
he will be. rewarded annually with a full crop of
its beautiful yellow blooms. A fence does not
provide the necessary warmth needed to prepare
the cunent season's growth, with the flower crop to
follow the next year. Where plants are growing in

month that were seeking their home for the winter
in our stokehole. I have destroyed the nests
with cyanide of potassium in the dry powder,
and if trodden in the next morning I have found
it most satisfactory. — W. W. Richardson, Marks
Hall Gardens, Coggeshall, Essex.
Fungus Name Wanted. — Will any mycologist

kindly tell nie the name and anything that is
known of the properties of a large fungus that
appears nearly every year at this season in and
near the north side of a hedgebank of peaty,
sandy soil imder Scotch Firs ? In appearance it
is exactly like a large bath sponge, only slightly
lighter and livelier in colour. One mass is nearly a
foot wide and 6 inches to 7 inches deep ; another
is smaller, but perhaps not full grown. The
texture is tender and easily breaks up. The appear-
ance suggests some affinity to Morel, but I can
'find no mention of it either under Morel or else-

where in the only books I have on fungi, namely,
Cooke's " British Fungi " and Badham's " Esculent
Fungi of England." — G. Jekvll.

Abnormal Growth in Plants.— I thought it

might interest the readers of The Garden were I

to draw attention to two cases of what I consider

abnormal growth in the gardens here. The first

is that of two Hollyhocks among a batch of seedlings.

The rest of the batch, although fairly tall, are

nothing out of the ordinary, but the respective

heights of the two in question are 12 feet and

II feet II inches. They both have double flowers

of the same shade, a deep rose pink. The second

case is that of a plant of Cobaea scandens which

was planted in an unheated verandah last April.

Since that date till early October one of the leading

shoots has made 39 feet of growth, and three other

shoots have made over thirty-six feet of growth.

Coba-a scandens is well known as a rampant

grower, but for a plant out of a

5-inch pot the growth seems to me to

be phenomenal. — Charles Comfort,

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson' s Mains,

Midlothian.

An Interesting New Zealand Gar-
den.— Seeing the results of the Rock
Garden Competition in The Garden
for June 14, I think you may care to
reproduce some of the photographs
which I am sending you. These were
taken by my father (Mr. Kinsey) quite
recently. As the New Zealand Graphic
asked permission to reproduce some, I
think the letterpress they give describes
the gardens. My father and I have
always been keen amateur gardeners.
During the last thirteen years my own
garden m Dunedin has become full of
interest. A clump of Ranimculus
Lyallii has bloomed and flourished well
since I planted it several years ago. —
May Moore. [The letterpress kindly
sent us by our correspondent describes
in detail the gardens of Mr. Kinsey, a
view in which is reproduced herewith.
The outlook is superb, stretching from
the cliffs near the entrance to Lyttleton
Harbour, to the distant Kaikouras and
Mount Hutt. The name of this week-
end residence of Mr. Kinsey is Te Hau
O Te Atua. Here the late Captain
Scott stayed with Lady Scott before
proceeding on his last and fateful
journey to the South Pole. — Ed.]

Aster Beauty of Colwall. — It might
be said with but little fear of contra-
diction that not only is this the finest Michaelmas
Daisy extant, but the greatest addition to autumn-
flowering herbaceous plants that has yet seen the
liglit of day. It is also an acquisition. Indeed, no
plant of my acquaintance is possessed of the illumi-
nating power of this Aster when seen in well-culti-
vated groups. Good cultivation, however, is required,
and will be repaid a thousandfold when the hand-
some pyramids of rich violet blue flowers stand out
in luirivalled splendour in late September daj'S.
This year, by reason of the exceptional spell of
sunshme that has been experienced, the great
groups of it have assumed an unusual brilliance,
and those who plant for effect — those who can
garden with hundreds of such plints — can surely
have no finer subject than this. It should, however,
be cultivated and given room for development if all
the sumptuous beauty of which it is capable is to
be realised in its fullest measure. — E. H. Jenkins.

October i8, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

523

Virgilia lutea. — This fabaccuu:; dwarf true is
at iin^ciit at its host, the foliage having assumed

[ its autniniial chrome yellow colouring. It has
iicvor flowered here, but the effect it produces
ill autumn compensates for all other failings. —
K. P. B., Tyniiigluime, Preslonkirk. A'.JS

I The Hardiness of Nicotiana aflinis. — The
fragrant and beautilul NIcutiaiia affiiiis is hardy
ni some gardens I have visited, but it was
quite an unexpected thing for me to see a few
old plants in Tollcross Park, Glasgow, the other
day. They were growing at the end of one of the
greenhouses in the enclosed ground at the back,
and had been there for several years unsheltered.
Mr. Wilson, who has charge of Tollcross Park,
under Mr. James Whitton, informed me that the
plants liad proved quite hardy. N. affinis is not
usually hardy in gardens so far North as Glasgow
and in a climate such as is to be met with there. —
S. Arnott.
Pruning Rose Dorothy Perkins. — The orthodo.x

' metliud of pruning tliis and utlier climbing Roses
is to remove the whole of the last season's wood
that gave flower this year, to make space for the
I nrrent year's growth, which is intended to give
I he ne.xt year's flower crop. While not saying one
word against this method, I do not think it is
necessary to cut away the whole of last year's
shoots ; if the strongest of those are allowed to
remain, they will give quantities of flower next year
and will aid in making a much thicker screen
where such is necessary. I have a hedge of
this Rose, lo feet high, which has scarcely been
pruned at all during the last six years, and how it
blossoms yearly in such profusion surprises many
people. — S. H.

The Nerines. — I was greatly interested in the
article on theselovely bulbous plants which appeared
in the issue for September 13, because it recalled
to my memory a very fine batch that used to be
in Blenheim Gardens, Woodstock. They may
still be grown there ; but my reference is to ten
years ago, at which time they were in splendid
condition, flowering most freely. To the best of
my recollection they were in 7-inch to g-inch pots,
and full of bulbs, even to overcrowding, which
state evidently betokened their havmg been midis-
turbed for many years. As they passed out of
flower they used to be stood on shelves in a dry
liouse, where the sun could play upon them con-
tinuously until they began to throw up spikes again.
The variety was known as Fothergilli major.
Incidentally, the Nerine does not seem to be largely
grown, for it is seldom one can see it when
looking romid a garden, big or small. — C. Turner,
Ilighgalc.

The Failure of Pears. — In the present extreme
shortage of Pears it may be worth while to preserve
a record of the doings of various sorts, in order to
establish, if possible, some general principle.
My garden, I should mention, is well protected
by downs on the north and east, and largely by
the church on the west. It is somewhat exposed
to south-west winds straight off the sea. I have
hardly any wall. My record is : Beurre Lebrun
and Prince Imperial, fair crop, less than usual ;
Doyenne du Cumice, two on wall, twelve each
(one of these, a noble tree figured in The Garden
some years ago, has had r88) ; three in open
garden, none ; Marguerite Marillat, ten ; Magnate,
four ; Alexandrine Douillard, two ; Le Lectier and
Durondeau (both on wall), one each ; about twenty-
five others, all of the best sorts, none. My impression
is that in the long spell of bad weather this spring,
those which were early enough to have set the

bloom before it, and those which were not then
out at all, partially escaped, but I cannot altogether
fit my list to this theory. Perhaps some other
growers will give yon their experience. — G. E.
Jeans, Shorwell Vicinage, Isle 0/ Wight.

A Noble Border Plant.— Phytolacca dccandra,
perhaps better known as the Red Ink Plant, though
easily cultivated and quite hardy, is rarely met
with in our Irish gardens. When planted in a
favourable position, it attams a height of from
8 feet to 10 feet. A plant established in the
herbaceous borders here annually makes a fine
display in the autumn, when the long, summer
flower-spikes are loaded with dark purple berries.
When established, P. decandra needs very little
attention unless planted in an exposed position,
when a stake will help it to withstand the autunui
winds. Propagation is best effected by seed, as
the large, fleshy, poisonous roots do not take kindly
to dividing. Usually a few seedlings may be
picked up in spring from the borders in the vicinity
of the parent plant, and if carefully transplanted
they will make nice plants the first season. If
better known, this plant would undoubtedly
find a corner ui every garden. — T. Leggett,
Woodlawii, County Galuiay.

Verbena venosa : What is Its Colour ? — A
large bed planted with pillar-trained, rose-coloured,
Stock-flowered Larkspurs, with the interspaces
filled mth Verbena venosa and a broad edging
of dwarf Ageratum, has attracted some attention
this season, and in one instance the colour of the
Verbena gave rise to not a little discussion, violet,
purple and heliotrope being by different persons
assumed to be the correct colour description.
The colour is, of course, one by itself, and on
turning up a few books I find it noted as rosy
violet, and purple. I myself have always looked
upon it as giving on the whole a violet effect, and
for certain purposes s an indispensable colour in the
flower garden. I wonder what some of your readers
who are acquainted with colours would describe it
— not so much the colour of an individual flower-
head as the effect in a grouped mass. This species
is not nearly so much grown as it deserves to be,
and is not often seen in gardens at the present
time, though forty years ago it was used in the
bedding designs of that period, with much effect.
It is a South American plant, not everywhere
hardy, but in the milder districts it is distinctly
hardy herbaceous, though the best results are
obtained by annual propagation. This may be
done in three ways. One is to sow seeds in
heat very early in the year, taking the precaution
to steep the seeds in water for a couple of days
before sowuig and never allowing them to feel
tlie effects of dryness. At the best the seeds
germinate rather erratically. The underground
stems provide another method of increase. These
are cut into short pieces, and, being covered w^ith
light soil, produce growths from each eye, and
after roots are formed they are transplanted into
ordinary cutting-boxes or pots. Another way is
to strike the shoots which are forced into growth
from the stems, and by this means a larger increase
is possible. To those who are unacquauited w^th
the plant it may be explained that it grows from
6 inches to 2 feet in height, the latter in soil well
cultivated. — R. P. Brotherston.

TH E GREEN HOUSE.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

October 21. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Exhibition.

^^October 22. — Hereford Fruit and Chrysanthe-
mum Show (two days).

SEASONABLE NOTES ON CHRY-
SANTHEMUMS.

DURING the early part of October
i all the plants now grown for the
I production of exhibition blooms will
' be placed under glass. As amateur
cultivators generally have more
garden space for the plants during
the summer-time than greenhouse room for them
in the autunm, a close selection should be made
so as to make sure that the best plants with the
most promising buds have the most favourable
positions. Overcrowding, to a considerable extent,
may thus be avoided. It is not a difficult matter
to decide which plants will prove the least satis-
factory, and, of course, their entire exclusion would
make a great difference to those bearmg fine buds.
.Although the lower leaves have really done their
part in the building up of the plants, it is better
to try to retain them as long as possible now by
affording the plants ample light and air.

Dressing the Blooms. — Twenty years ago the
dressing of the blotuns was a very important
matter, when incurved varieties were largely grown.
Many varieties of the incurved section have Japanese
blood in them, and some dressmg is necessary to
avoid coarseness. The dressing that I recommend
now takes the form of the simple removal ot short,
twisted or otherwise malformed petals, which,
if left in, would interfere with the proper develop-
ment of the good, soimd petals. The timely
removal of bad petals is more effective than leaving
all such to be taken out at one time — when the
bloom is really fully developed.

Night Work. — If all faded leaves are picked off
the plants when the latter are put under glass, the.
natural harbour for earwigs, and many of these
pests, too, will be got rid of ; but there will, no
doubt, be plenty more to destroy. It is not diffi-
cult to catch them on unde\'eloped buds about eight
o'clock in the evening by the aid of a good light
suddenly thrown on them, b.ut much more so when
the blooms are half open, and later still. Cater-
pillars that are usually found on the leaves of Zonal
Pelargoniums at this season also do much damage to
Chrysanthemums blooms, eating away half a bud
in one night. If any excrescence be found on the
leaves, look carefully under them in the daylight,
and, failing to find the caterp.Uar, e.Kamuie the
opening buds at night. Mildew may also spread
on the leaves. Early in the morning, while the
leaves are rather moist, throw some flowers of
sulphur on them and underneath. The powder
will adhere and soon check the spread of mildew.
I much prefer to use dry sulphur in this way than
a solution of any kind after the plants are housed.
It is advisable to group the plants, forming three
groups, after they are housed, namely, the earliest
or most forward, the medium early, and the latest.
I refer, of course, to the state of the opening flowers,
and not to the late, medium, and early varieties.
So placed, it will be found very easy to attend to
the daily requirements of the plants. Lightly
shade the more forward blooms, especially those
of the chestnut and bronze varieties. Yellow and
white flowered varieties must be kept away from the
top ventilators if there is a direct draught on them,
as the purity of the petals will be marred by damp
spots. Thin scrim or tiffany suspended between
the blooms and the ventilators will keep away
much moisture. Gradually lessen the feeding of
all plants bearing half-open blooms, and give clear
water only when three parts developed, Avon.

524

THE GARDEN.

[October i8, 1913.

THE CAMPANULAS OR
BELLFLOWERS.

(Continued from page 497.)
C. petraea. — A plant which seems more prized
for its colour than for anything else, but in reality
it is a poor subject. It is upwards of a foot high,
with large heads of dull yellow in July, and is a
doubtful perennial ; in fact, a biennial with almost
everyone. Sun and a dry place. Seeds.

C. portenschlagiana. — A valuable plant for
sun or shade, rockery, wall, or large moraine.
It forms a trailing mass of pretty leaves and hand-
some, purpi'sh blue flowers in June, July, and even
later. Thi best form is C. p. bavarica, or major.
E.xcellent fi r .my place in the garden.

C. pseudo-Raineri. — This is now very scarce,
and was for long sold as one of the forms of C.
G. F. Wilson, but is a much finer plant than either
that hyl)rid or C. Raineri itself. It has large,

and very handsome with its large, drooping cups
of exquisite blue in Jmie and July. Division.

C. pumila and C. pusilla. — For garden purposes
these are pr.ictically the same as C. caispitosa.

C. raddeana. — A handsome, graceful, easily-
grown comparative novelty. In gritty soil in
sun it is about a foot high, and has fine deep green
foliage and dark blue flowers borne in plenty in
July. The flat parts of the rockery or front of
the border. Sun or shade. Seeds or division,
increasing rapidly at the roots.

C. Raineri. — A delightful plant, beloved of
slugs and difficult to keep. It loves the moraine
or a sunny chink, where it gives its large, blue,
erect, open flowers on 2-inch or 3-inch stems.
Division or seeds. June.

C. rliomboidalis. — A lovely little Bellflower
of the rotundilolia character, with prettily-formed,
deep blue flowers about ten inches or twelve inches
high. The level rockery or front of the border.
Seeds or division. June or July.

THE ROCK AND WATER
GARDEN.

AUTUMN IN

M

CAMPANULA ROTUNDH'OLIA ALPINA, A CHARMING BELLFLOWER I'OR THE ROCK GAR

purplish, open bells in June on a low, rather trailing
plant. ,\n open place in light soil suits it best.

C. Profusion. — There are two forms of this
lovely hybrid Campanula, which comes very near
C. haylodgensis. One has more yellow leaves
and one lighter blue flowers than the otlier. E.xcel-
lent for a dry rockery, wall, or moraine. Division
or cutthigs. June and July.

C. punctata. — A handsome plant, with long,
drooping, whitish bells, spotted like those of a
Foxglove, in June. Not very long-lived, but easily
raised from seeds, and looking best on a rockery.
It is 9 inches or a foot high. Partial shade.

C. pulla. — A lovely gem, which often dies out
in gardens, cither from winter wet or from slugs.
It hates lime, and loves a peaty, rather moist place.
Charming drooping bells of deepest blue on 6-inch
or g-inch stems in June and July. Seeds or division.
The moraine suits it well.

C. pulloides. — A lovely hybrid, found by some
easier to grow than C. pulla, which is one of its
parents Good for tlic same positions as C. pulla,

C. rotundifolia. — Under this, our native Harebell,
we may group a number of forms. C. linitolia
and C. alaskana, though said by some to be distinct,
may well be included. C. Hostii is one of the
best forms. C. r. alpuia, deep blue, is very fine.
There are various shades of blue and of white
among the varieties. The single form of C. r.
soldanellajflora is not worth growing, but the double
one is interesting. Any soil or position will suit
these. Seeds or division. C. linifolia valdensis
is very good. All the forms will grow almost
anywhere, and flower from June.

C. rupestris. — A beautiful little plant with
large, pale blue flowers and rather silvery-looking
leaves. Moraine, or dry, sunny rockwork, and
resembling C. fragilis in its general aspect. Division
or seeds. July.

C. sarmatica. — A good rock and border plant,
about a foot high, after the fashion of C. barbata,
with pleasing light blue flowers in July. Any
soil, and excellent in every way. S. Arnott.

(To he continued.)

THE ROCK GARDEN.

OST owners of rock gardens are apt
to think that after June, or, at latest.
July, the charm of that part of their
garden is gone. To a certain extent
this is true. Those who know
Switzerland will realise that the
spring and early summer are certainly the times
when alpine plants are at their best. But this all
makes the problem of how to avoid a bare autumn
rockery all the more interesting. Just now quite
a respectable number of plants may be had in
bloom by those who arrange their plans well. It
is considered rather bad management if the flower-
borders are quite bare at one period of the season,
unless, of course, they are plamicd for a special
month. Why should not this apply
to the rock garden ? 1 will enu-
merate some of the plants that
will flower just now. It is a
great help if plants of small growth
and quite suitable to such a position
are grown, even if they are not alpiues,
and use is even made of annuals to
fill up gaps. Of small carpeting
plants, Fraukeuia, witli pretty grey
foliage and a small pink flower, and
lonopsidium acaule, an annual with
pinkish mauve flowers, are both good.
The latter is particularly suitable for
an edgu g. Linaria alpina is a grace-
ful, feathery little plant. Of the
Heaths, Erica Searlii and E. vagans
alba are both in flower just now,
and make a very satisfactory mass
of dark green, studded with white.
Vittadenia triloba is a small and most
useful plant, not often seen. It has a
Daisy-like, pinkish white flower, and
is covered with blossom most of the
year. It deserves the very highest
recommendation. Both Corydalis

dicentra and C. lutea are out. Though
neither is a showy plant, their foliage
makes a pretty soft-looking mass,
and their flowers are not to be
DEN. despised. The latter grows well in

a wall. Stray flowers may be
found on many plants which have really
done their flowering season. Hypericum reptans
and H. Coris will make a welcome patch of
yellow. Potentilla Miss Willmott flowered early
in the summer, and is now a mass of silvery pink
blossoms. In a damp spot a red Mimulus makes a
handsome patch of colour. It is worth noting that
though it does best by the side of water, it will
also grow in quite a dry situation. Tunica Saxi-
fraga and Androsace coronopifolia (rather similar
in appearance) are both out.

To sum up for the benefit of those who are ou
the look-out for autumn-flowering plants, the follow-
ing may give useful ideas : Gentiana asdepiadea,
Commeluia, Mimulus, Corydalis dicentra and C<
lutea, Frankinia, Iberis gibraltarica, (Enothera
macrocarpa. Thrift, Linaria alpina. Tunica Saxi-
fraga, Androsace coronopifijlia. Ericas, Hypericum
reptans and H. Coris, and Veronica. I'or foliage,
Sedums of sorts. For a few stray flowers, Geranium
lancastriense. Campanula turbinata and C. t.
pallida, and Violas. M. B. RadcufI'E Cooke.

October i8, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

525

I ROCK GARDEN PLANTS IN

OCTOBER.

Those who so f)ften bemoan the fact that our lork
gardens are devoid of interest during tlie autumn
should give more attention to the plants which
flower at that season. On more than one occasion
we have printed lists of suitable kinds, and readers
have kindly supplied the names of others that can
he relied upon to produce flowers when the davs
are waning. This year a great many alpine plants
have been flowering late, and on the 2nd inst.
we received from Mr. Maurice Prichard. West
Moors, Dorset, a very line collcclion. In
writing, Mr. Prichard says : " I have pleasure in
pcisting you a box of cut alpines flowering on
October I in the open. The variety is so great
for this time of the year that I was tempted to

V. Jackanapes, lower petals yellow, upper velvety
brown : V. olympica, deep sky blue ; Vittadenia
triloba, white, Daisy-like flowers ; and Wahlcn-
bergia vinca>flora, periwinkle blue.

THE

IN

ROSE GARDEN

•^(■nd a few samples for your table."
1-1 one of more than usual interest,
we publish herewith the names of
all the kinds sent : .Achillea tomen-
i"<a, yellow; A. Kellereri, white ;
.\ .\izoon, white ; .\ntirrhinunis
glulinosuni Copper King and Crim-
son King ; A. gibraltaricum, rose
purple ; .Aster Mrs. Berkeley (white
Michaelmas Daisy) ; A. hybridus
roseum, pale rose ; A. sericeus,
mauve ; .\steriscus maritima, yel-
low ; Bunninghausenia albiflora,
white, with Kue-likc foliage ; C^alan-
drinia umbi'llata, deep purple ;
Campanula pnsdla, deep blue ; C.
rotundifolia alba ; Calceolaria alba ;
Cheiranthus Marshallii. pale orange;
Ch,enostoma lespida, pale blush ;
t oreopsis nisea. pale rose ; Coronill.i
albo-roseum, rtjse and wliite ; Con-
volvulus mauritanicusatroca^rulens,
blue ; Dianthus deltoides Brilliant,
brilliant rose pink ; D. Prichardii
Brilliant, a»3y pink ; Erodium
hybridum ; Felicia abyssinica, pale
mauve ; Lysimachia Henryii, yel-
low ; Heeria elegans, rose purple ;
Hypericum polyphyllum, H.a'gypti-
cum, H. olympicum, H. orientale
and H. empetrifolium, all yellow ;
Linaria antii'aria, pale yellow, with
bronze lip ; L. alpina, mauve blue,
with orange scarlet lip ; L. multi-
punctata, orange yellow ; L. rosea
concolor, pale rose ; L. repens alba,
white ; Meconopsis cambrica plena,
yellow ; M. c. aurantiaca plena,
orange scarlet ; Moringia muscosa,
white, very tufted ; Myosotis azo-
ricus, violet ; CEnothera riparia, dull orange scarlet ;
CE. me,\icana rosea, rose ; CE. taraxacifolia, canary
yellow; Nepeta Mussinii, deep lavender ; Origanum
dictamnus, dull rose ; Pentstemon canipanulatus,
dull crimson ; Phyteuma lobelioides gracilis,
deep blue. Campanula-like flowers ; Primula
Munroi, white ; P. capitata, deep blue ; P. bulley-
ana, orange ; P. Poissonii, rose purple ; Polygonum
vaccinifolium, rose pink ; P. capitatum. rose
pink ; Saxifraga cortusafolia, white ; Scutellaria
indica japonica, lavender blue ; S. hastata, blue ;
Silene hiciniata, scarlet ; Solidago brachyphylla,
yellow ; Stachys coccinea, dull orange scarlet ;
S. Corsica, pale blush ; Verbena venosa, purple ;
V. Teneri .Mahonettii, purple, edged wliite ; V.
ratEcans, deep mauve ; Veronica Bidwellii (Miss
Willmott's hybrid), pale blue ; Viola CEtholica ;

A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.

Some of the Xewer Roses.
ONTINUINfi the general review, I
come now to the most " important "
class of all — I mean the garden
Roses. What heresy this must sound
to some ! What would the Rev.
I'oster-Melliar have said to such a
statement ? And yet it is true. The most impor-
tant by reason of its numbers, variety and general
.'\s the subject ' interest. Why, for every exhibition Rose grown

c

CAMPANULA PORTENSCHLAGIA.VA BAVARICA GROWING IN A DRV

WALL.

Rose world ! And then I passed on down the
garden and stood before a bush of Irish Beauty,
with a spray of its bloom just opening, the centre
or crown bud fully out ; of the others some were
thinking about it, while some were still tight buds,
hardly showing colour. Naturally, it was the centre
flower that attracted my attention, and it was larger
than usual. The first flowers are nearly always the
biggest and this one was at the stage of its highest
possible beauty, and I, with all the magnificence of
the other Rose still before me, found myself exclaim-
ing, " No ; this is the most beautiful, after all !
The simple white flower — only a single ! "

I think possibly the best way to deal with the
garden Roses will be to divide them into colours,
dealing with them as bedding Roses that have
been particularly good this year. One starts
with pink (all shades) : Miss Cynthia Forde, Mme.
Segond Weber, Mme. Leou Pain, Bertha Claulis
and Lady Alice Stanley. I think
I must confine myself to five of
each colour ; three plants of each
would make a fine bed for anyone
who " must " grow mixed Roses.
They are, I am afraid, in the
majority, and all these five would,
as it happens, mix well. Flesh
tints : Mrs. Amy Hammond (a
delightful Rose this), Pharisaer,
Crace Molyneux, La Tosca and
Lady Ursula, all good, strong
growers that would be called tall
in comparison with the set of five
pinks. Cream and pale yellow :
Mme. Melanie Soupert, Lady
Greenall, Melody, Verna Mackay
and Mrs. Harold Brocklebank.
Melody is probably the least
vigorous of these five, but cannot
be left out, although the question
of habit of growth is of much
more importance in the case of
mixed beds. Reds : A real good
bedding red is still to seek. (I
consider, despite its growth, Hugh
Dickson is still the most satisfac-
tory, but that is hardly new.)
Mrs. Muir McKean, Lieutenant
Chaure, Mrs. E. Powell, Leslie
Holland and Richmond are all
good growers. Yellows : Lady
Hillingdon (the best yellow garden
Rose), Miss .-Uice de Rothschild,
Duchess of Wellington, Harry
Kirk and Mrs. L Pelrie. While
(I shall not be able to find five
in this colour) : Mrs. Herbert
Stevens, Molly Sharman Crawford,
British Queen and Simplicity Then that vast
host that one cannot label with one colour name —

in the coimtry there are a hundred garden Roses,

and yet I suppose that without the exhibition

Rose and all that it means, the garden Rose as we rather whose colours have no name : Queen Mary

know it to-day would have been non est, and so (a really lovely Rose), Carine, Lady Pirrie, Theresa,

may they long continue. The one is a comple- Mrs. Herbert Straker, Old Gold. Mrs. F. W. Vander-

ment of the other, and there is plenty of room for
both, not only in our gardens, but in our hearts.
I remember a certain morning this last June
I found myself confronted with the old problem,
" Which is the most beautiful Rose ? " brought
back for reconsideration and a fresh judgment by a
particularly beautiful flower of Mrs. F'oley Hobbs.
It had been coming slowly to perfection for a week,
and here it was " at its best," as near perfect as

hilt, Margaret Molyneux, Simbeam, Florence
Edith Coulthwaite, Mme. C. Lutand and Irish
Fireflame. And from the bedders one passes to
the semi-climbers and climbing varieties. Would
there were a few more perpetual-flowering Roses
among them ! They are coming, no doubt, but
very slowly. One welcomed this year Danae
and Moonlight ; but they are not climbers, hardly
semi-climbers. They have the continuous-flowering

one can expect, a four-point bloom meet to compete habit, for their raiser has shown them consistently
for the medal for the best bloom at any show. ' throughout the season, and never better than
There can be nothing much more beautifid in the at the autumn show, where I was very glad to see

526

THE GARDEN.

[October i8, 1913.

Mfioiilight obtained a gold medal ; but I must
rrtiini to my subject, .^moug the wiehiiraianas,
Diabolo, Franrois Jiiranville, Dr. Van i'leet, Gerbe
Rose and Shower of Cold have been better this yem
than I ever remember to have before seen them. Of
the ramblers or stronger growers : American Pillar,
Blush Rambler. Evangeline, Goldfinch (particu-
larly good) and Tausendschon. This latter ' has
made 15-feet to 20-feet shoots with me, and the
tints of the young foliage add a charm to the plants.
The flowers last a very long time, although it really
only flowers once. The semi-climbers or pillar
Roses : Nothing very new has been brought to
my notice, but Sarah Bernhardt, Johanna Sebas,
and Crepuscule have been very fine, and Lady
Waterlow and Trier are two indispensables. Of
the climbing sports, Souvenir de
Pierre Notting has been mag-
nificent, is still full of flower,
and far and away -the best
yellow climber we have. The
flowers have lost a lof of the
rough outer petals that spoil the
dwarf form, and have been the
colour of Marechal Niel. Climbing
Richmond has also come to stay,
and Climbing White Maman Cochet
promises to be very good and
Hseful.

Herbert E. Moi.vneu.\.
Snulhamploii.

fauied Waltham Cross, surely one of Messrs.
William Paul and Sons' very finest creations ;
the cxquisitely-thited Duchess of Sutherland,
a variety from Newtownards well worthv of its
name ; Alice de Rothschild, a hybrid Marechal
Niel, one of the most beautiful and richly fragrant
yellow Roses in cultivation ; and such distinguished
varieties from Portadown in Ireland as Countess
of Gosford, Miss Amy Hammond, Ethel Malcolm,
Evelyn Dauntesey (after the style of the incom-
parable La France), Mrs. Alfred Tate (of quite
imique colour, one of whose derivatives is probably
Old Gold), the highly distinctive Dorothy Ratclif?e
and, above all, Mrs. Herbert Stevens (one of the
most perfectly-formed and refinedly-textured pure
white Roses that ever were raised), have proved

ROSES OF RECENT

INTRODUCTION.

While the Rose season, which
is now only too manifestly
on the decline, was — chiefly
through lack of moisture — not
too favourable for what may be
termed a profusion of Roses, it
was, on the other hand, in
Southern Scotland at least, crea-
tive of quality in an eminent
degree. This was chiefly owing
to the abundant sunshine, ol
which, I believe, we had more
in Scotland than even in the
southernmost English counties.
The varieties that were finest in
our Scottish gardens were un-
doubtedly the Teas and Hybrid
Teas. I have never seen Anna
Olivier, for example, with such
a depth of colour as it had
this year. It was quite as rich
an apricot in my own garden
as its derivative (Lady Roberts) ~^'^^ DECO

at its finest, and that is saying
much. I have for many years
regarded the latter beautiful Rose as best adapted
for the conservatory ; it is not too reliable in our
variable climate when grown in the open air.
But the loveliest Roses I had this season were,
for the most part, of quite recent introduction.
I had not, unfortunately, the privilege of seeing
British Queen, for this was one of the very few
varieties of any reputation that during last winter
succumbed to the frost. I presume that I had
assigned it too exposed a situation ; but it was
from the first anything but a vigorous or reliable
specimen, and I hope to obtain a stronger repre-
sentative of this phenomenal Rose from its raiser
this year. But, on the other hand, such truly
superb Roses as Mrs. Charles Hunter, Ironi far-

RATIVE nAHLIA KAISERIN AUGUSTA VICTORIA
FOR EFFECT.

during the past season so memorable for the
marvellous beauty of their flowers — mvaluable
acquisitions. Lady Hillingdon, though exquisite
at the nurseries of Messrs. Thomas Smith and
Sons in this county, accomplished nothing during
the summer in my garden ; but towards the end of
the season it made a visible effort in the direction
of floral production, though its flowers are lament-
ably lacking in size. Meanwhile I am looking
forward to the first appearance here next season
of three Hybrid Teas of the greatest fascination,
viz., George Dickson, British Queen and King
George V. David R. Wii.i.i.\mson.

Mcinsr 0/ Kirkmciulen, by Drummnre,
Wigtownshire.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

DAHLIAS FOR GARDEN EFFECT.

IN years gone by the Dahlia was looked upon
as an almost indispensable autumn flower,
but now we often hear the opinion expressed
that Dahlias are almost useless for colour
effect in the garden. The reason is not
far to seek, for the older varieties of
the decorative class hold their heads of bloom
on stout stems well above the foliage, whereas
most of the modern varieties introduced under
the name and disguise of improved sorts
possess the unpardonable fault of weakened stems,
hiding their heads of bloom beneath a dense green
mass of growth and foliage.
Happily, some of the older varie-
ties good for garden colour-schemes
are still to be obtained, while the
new Pajony-flowered race bids fair
when better known to outrival the
old show Dahlia for massing
Readers should be wary of the
alleged improved varieties as seen
at exhibitions. More often than
not these flowers are either dis-
played in show bo.xes or with stems
stiffened by wires. Such varieties
may be utterly useless from a
garden point of view, however
excellent they may be for exhibi-
tion. Now, by thoughtfully choos-
ing the right varieties, it is
possible to create truly wonderful
autumn colour - schemes with
Dahlias. It needs only a glance
at the accompanying illustration
to make this point clear. Here is
seen a bed of the variety Kaisenn
.Augusta Victoria, in which the
flower - heads are borne on stout
stems well above the foliage. This
bed is situated near the lake at Kew,
and from all directions the white
flowers show up clearly, and make
a bright and telling spot upon an
autumn landscape. It is true that
many of the flowers are semi-
double, and from a florist's point of
view they may be lacking in form,
but for producing a mass of bloom
this variety has few equals. It is
unfortunate that there are two
varieties bearing the name
Kaiserin .Augusta Victoria, and the
one here referred to is not the
PLANTED Pffiony-flowered variety, but a

pure white decorative Dahlia that
grows from 2 feet to 3 feet in height.
.Another decorative variety, and one which is
becoming very popular for colour effect, is D61ice,
a sturdy grower with delightfully fresh pink
flowers. It has this year been seen in many gardens,
and, having rendered a good account of itself,
it has doubtless come to stay. Loveliness is another
charming variety. It is now flowering to perfec-
tion in a border of autumn flowers at Gunnersbury.
It goes without saying that self colours give the
most pleasing effect, particularly when massed
in great numbers.

The single and Pompon Dahlias look very dainty
in the garden, and are deserving of more attention.
The same may be said of the little-known bedding
varieties, of which b'lora Maedonald (yellow).

October i8, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

527

Kisin;; Sun (scarlet) and King of tlio Dwarfs
(purpli) ari^ among the best. These varieties
-rldnm exrerd 2 feet in heiglit, and are very nsefnl
iTi gardens of limited space. Of the Cactus varie-
ties, Amos Perry (scarlet) and Garden Yellow
ire two of the very best. Nor must we omit
Mauve Queen, Conquest (crimson) and the dark
lorm of the old favourite J. H. Jackson.

TWELVE

USEFUL SHRUBS
WALLS.

FOR

hardy in Cornwall, requires the shelter frf a wall
round London. The small, oval leaves stamp it
as distinct from the other species, T. lanceolata
or hexapetala (which is sometimes also called
Crinodendron hookerianum), while its white,
fringed flowers are also very different from those
It gives the best results in a

TREES AND SHRUBS.

The selection of suitable shrubs for covering
walls is often a perplexing business to persons
who are not intimately acquainted with shrub-
life, more particularly when neat-growing of the other plant,
plants are required rather than the more free sunny position.

and rampant climbers. With this in view, the Escallonia macrantha. — Although this is per-
following twelve kinds have been selected as , fectly hardy in the smithern maritime counties,
a guide to intending planters. Plants of strictly it requires wall culture in most parts of the country,

climbing habit have been avoided in most instances, and is an excellent plant for the purpose. Its

A BEAUTIFUL SNOWBERRi. | and preference has been given to those which are dark, evergreen leaves are interesting at all seasons,

UNDER the name of Symphoricarpus ; not generally hardy, or which give better results while its deep rose or light red flowers make it
ni.illis and S. occidentalis a large i against a wall than when planted in the open, particularly showy in summer. It thrives in a
fruiting Snowberry has been fairly As a rule, any of the plants mentioned succeed i variety of soils and situations,
frequentlv exhibited at the fon- i quite well with no further attention than an annual j Myrtus communis. — This, the common Myrtle,
nightly shows of the Royal Horn- pruning as soon as the flowers are over and is always a popular plant in gardens, but many
cultural Society in autumn for occasionally nailing the branches into position. people neglect it by reason of its liability to injury

tliree or four years past. On Octo-
ber II, igro, as S. mollis, it was
given an award of merit, and on
Tuesday of last week a first-
class certificate. Considerablf ditler-

■ ine of opinion exists as to the

■ I irrectness of the nomenclature.
It has been conclusively proved
to be neither of the species
named, but a large-fruited form
of the common Snowberry (S. race-
mosus). Raisers of new and im-
proved varieties of plants can
readily understand how this large-
fruited form has been obtained — by
raising se-dlings from the largest
fruits through several generations
and growing the bushes in rich soil.
Both species, S. mollis and S.
1.1 ( identalis, are now in cultivation
.It Kew ; but neither can in any
way compare with the specinun
illustrated, this being an infinitely
better plant in every way for
garden decoration. The name Sym-
phoricarpus racemosus macrocarpa
has been suggested for the plant,
but no doubt the name S. occi-
dentalis will cling to it for some
years in nurseries. Present appear-
ances suggest that neither S. mollis
nor S. occidentalis are sufficiently
ornamental to warrant their general
culture outside botanic gardens. S.
r.icemosus macrocarpa is a free-
gi'owing bush up to 6 feet in
height, with large, pure snow white
berries borne in terminal and axillary
clusters at the ends of the shoots,
those of vigorous growth. These panicles are so
heavily clothed with fruits that their weight
causes the shoots to arch over, giving the bushes
a very graceful appearance. Shown from the
famous collection of trees at .\ldenham it has
aroused great interest and admiration.

The Snowberries thrive in most soils, and are of
great value for shrubbery borders. In addition
to increase by seeds, the bushes produce suckers
freely, so that division of the clumps is possible
every few years, or pieces may be taken off the
sides without lifting the whole specimen. A
second useful species, popularly known as the
Coral Berry (S. orbiculatus), is in cultivation. Of
this there is a very pretty variegated form named
foliis variegatis. The SyInphoricarpus?s are
natives of North -America. A. O.

A BEAUTH-UL SNOWBERRY,

SYMPHORICARPUS R.4CEMOSUS MACROC.^RP.-i,
S. OCCIDENTALIS AND S. MOLLIS.

ALSO KNOWN Art

particularly

PlagianthUS Lyallii. — This is a New Zealand
shrub belonging to the Hibiscus family. It attains
a height of quite 12 feet, and may be relied upon
to cover a considerable area. It produces clusters
of pendulous, white flowers from the leaf-a.\ils
in July, and is a general favourite with all who
see it. South, west or east aspects are suitable,
and warm, loamy soil is required.

Sophora viciifolia, a spiny-branched shrub
tnmi China, is quite hardy in the South, but flowers
most satisfactorily when planted against a wall
in the colder parts of the coimtr)-. The deciduous,
pinnate leaves are composed of tiny, delicate
leaflets, and the white, violet-marked. Pea-shaped
flowers are borne freely in short racemes from
axillarv' growths.

Tricuspidaria dependens. — This is an inter-
esting and decorative evergreen, which, although

in winter. Planted against a wall, however, it
escapes injury, and the full value of its rich green,
fragrant foliage is apparent throughout the year,
while its white flowers are an additional attrac-
tion towards the end of the summer, .\fter a
warm summer a good crop of black fruits may be
expected.
Cotoneaster horizontalis is an excellent plant

fi.'r a (nriicr. Althougli wlien growing in the open
ground it rarely exceeds 18 inches in height, it
grows quite 10 feet high against a wall, and requires
no nailing after it has once obtained a start. Its
bright scarlet fruits are very attractive, while
the leaves colour brilliantly before they fall in the
autumn.

Ceanothus veitchianus. — This Califonuan ever-
green is rssentialK- a pl.iiit for a wall. Of vigorous
growth, it must be planted in a permanent posit i<iii

528

THE GARDEN.

[October i8, 1913.

when quite small, and if possible from a pot, for
it transplants badly. The small, evergreen leaves
make it attractive when n(}t in flower, while the
blue flowers are borne in surh profusion in May
as to hide the leaves,

CeanothUS rigidus makes an excellent com-
panion plant for the last named. It is a native
of the same country, and is distinguished by its
more rigid branches and deeper-coloured blossoms.
Like the previous plant, it blossoms with the
greatest freedom. Both kinds thrive in well-
drained, light, loamy soil, and give the best
results when exposed to full sun. They must
not be given very rich soil, or the flowering will
suffer.

Pyracantha angUStifolia.— This Chinese plant
was originally called Cotoneaster angustifolia,
liut is now included in Pyracantha. Its long,
narrow leaves resemble those of the common
Pyracantha in shape, but have a greyish hue.
The fruits are orange-coloured, and ripen during
the autumn. A sunny position and light, loamy
soil are essential to success.

Corokea Cotoneaster, a New Zealand shrub
lii'longing to the Cornus family, though rarely met

NEW AND RARE P1.ANTS.

FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE.

Symphoricarpus racemosus macrocarpa. — See

illustration and note on p.igc =,27.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Helianthus speciosus (Tithonia). — This was

In- far the most remarkable novelty exhibited at
the last meeting, and as such excited much admira-
tion. Strictly speaking, however, it is not a
novelty at all, the plant having been introduced
from Mexico so long ago as 1833, and is figured
in the Botanical Magazine, t. 3295. The flower-
heads are about fmir inches across, the florets
colinired a crimson-scarlet on the upper surface
and chrome yellow below ; peduncles single-headed.
Of annual duration only, and probably easily raised
from seeds. From Mr. W. Batchelor, Towcester.

Nerine Giantess. — This fine variety is said to
have licen obtained by crossing N. Bowdenii and
N. coruscans, and there are abundant evidences
to this end. The tall scapes and large open flowers
are very suggestive of the first named, the latter
being revealed in the form of the sepals and colo'jr.
It is of rose cerise colouring.

THii NliW AIJPLJ-, t.UliLPH (MUlH kliUULbtl), WHICH UAINttJ IHt kO\AL 1 1 OK 1 II. Li 1.-
TURAL society's FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE RECENTLY.

with in gardens, is a decidedly handsome plant
when grown against a south or west wall. Its
tiny, dark bronzy green leaves, with a grey reverse,
remain in good condition throughout the year,
while in June its golden, star-shaped flowers
are a great attraction. Light, loamy soil is
suitable.

Hydrangea petiolaris is strictly a climbing
plant, its branches ascending and clinging to their
support by means of aerial roots, as in the case of
the Ivy. It is an excellent plant for almost any
position where an evergreen is not necessary.
The flowers appear in large heads, many fertile
flowers being accompanied by a few sterile blooms.
The blossoming-time is summer. It is a native of
Japan.

Cydonia japonica cardinalis is a very rich

coloured form of the common Cydonia, or Pyrus,
japonica. Of vigorous habit, it will grow ig feet
or i8 feet high if allowed. By keeping the
breast-wood cut back, a spur-like condition of the
branches is encouraged, from which the maximum
number of flowers may be expected. A sunny
position is desirable. D.

Nerine Glory of Sarmia. — A very handsome

variety with flowers of crimson-scarlet. These
two came from Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent
Garden, W.C.

Nerine Salmon Queen. — The name is descriptive.

The variety is an exceedingly handsome one, tall
and imposing in stature, and bearing a fine head
of flowers.

Tricyrtis stolonifera. — The Toad Lilies are
remarkable for their quaintly - coloured flowers,
and this is no exception to the rule. The above
appears to be possessed of a more branching habit
than some, the copiously-spotted flowers more
bell-shaped in outline. These two came from Mr.
H. J. Klwes, Colesborne.

Paulownia tomentosa lanata. — This handsome

foliage plant was wel' shown by the Hon. Vicary
Gibbs, Elstree, and for its leaf-growth is well
worthy of cultivation. The flowers of the new-
comer are said to be coloured violet.

Carnation Yellow Stone. — The flowers are of
good size, pale yellow in colour, with occasional
touches of palest primrose. From Messrs. AUwood
Brothers, Havward's Heath.

Carnation Queen Alexandra. — A fine pink-
flowered sport from Scarlet Glow, the flowers
of shapely form and supported on strong stems.
The variety possesses a pleasing, if not powerful,
fragrance. From Mr. Clarke, March.

Dahlia General de Sonis (Collarette). — Florets
rich scarlet, the few inner florets being coloured
yellow.

Dahlia Carl Bechstadt (Collarette).— A very
showy variety of scarlet and yellow colouring.

Dahlia Oilenbach (Decorative), — A fine yellow
self of much merit. These three were exhibited
by Mr, J, B. Riding, Chingford,

Dahlia The Quaker (Cactus).— The florets are
finely' incurved, and coloured for the most part a
pinky white. From Messrs. J. Stredwick and Sons,
St. Leonards-on-Sea.

The above-named Dahlias, having been adjudi-
cated upon by a joint committee of the National
Dahlia Society and the floral committee of the Royal
Horticultural Societv, carry the first-class certificate
of the former and the award of merit of the
latter.

I^TEW ORCHIDS.

FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE.

Cattleya Adula Glebe Variety (C bicoior ,x c.
hardyana), — This is an exceptionally fine form, with
deep rose sepals and petals tinged with red, while
the broad lip is purplish crimson. Shown by
G. C, Phillips, Esq., Sevenoaks.

AWARDS OF MERIT.
Brasso-Cattleya Iris (C, Iris x B.C. Thorntonii).
— .-X charming acquisition to this class of Orchid,
with rosy purple sepals and petals, while the large
round fimbriated lip is crimson-purple with a
yellow throat. F'rom Messrs, J, and A, McBean,
Cookslifidge, Sussex,

Cattleya Fabia Prince of Wales (C aurea x

C, labiata), — One of the best forms seen. It has
purplish sepals and petals and a ruby crimson
lip, with yellow lines in the throat. Exhibited
by Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. .Albans.

Odontoglossum crawshayanum superbum (O.

Hallii X O. harryaiuiin), — This variety has yellow
sepals and petals with dark chocolate-coloured
markings, while the large open lip is white, with
purple spots at the base around the yellow crest.

NEW APPLES.

FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE.

Guelph. — A very handsome, highly-coloured
and richly-flavoured variety. Parentage : Charles
Ross X Rival. The fruits resemble the former
parent in colour and flavour, but are larger in
size. A deputation of the fruit committee were
very favourably impressed with this Apple as seen
upon the tree at Newbury. See illustration.
AWARDS OF MERIT.

Peacemaker. — In colour, form and size this
variety closely resembles the former, but its fruits
ripen quite a fortnight earlier. Parentage : Houblon
X Rival. These two varieties were raised by that
successful and veteran raiser Mr. Charles Ross,
and were shown by Mr. W. Pope, Welford Park,
Newbury.

Cliveden Prolific.— This variety, of medium
size, possesses excellent cooking qualities ; more-
over, it is a very heavy cropper. It is claimed to
he a poor man's Apple, as it crops heavily in good
and bad seasons ahke. Shown by Mr, W, Camm,
Cliveden Gardens, Taplow.

The foregoing were all shown before the Royal
Horticultural Society on October 7, when the
awards were made.

October i8, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

629

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS

HOW TO PLANT BUSH FRUITS AND APPLES AND PEARS.

IN small gardens use must be made of every
square foot of ground. Some cultivators
utilise every square inch, practically reaping
good crops of various kinds and, also, a
lot of enjoyment out of the necessary work.
Not very long ago we were accustomed to
see one or two very large Apple, Pear or Cherry
trees in a small garden. Few such specimens
remain ; they had to give place to smaller ones
representing several varieties in the same space,
and in the modern garden the small tree has been,
and rightly so, the first consideration of the culti-
vator. I am now dealing with such trees.

The Rooting Medium. — This is a very important
m.ittcr, and must receive first attention. Unlike
an annual or a plant in a pot, the fruit tree must
lemain in the same position for a number of j'ears,
and so we must thoroughly prepare the soil.
Trench it 2 feet 6 inches deep at least. The
subsoil nmst be well broken, but left below ;
all top soil — which is the best — should be
left there. Where the trees or bushes arc
planted in rows, side by side, covering any
considerable area, the whole of the ground must
be trenched. I'or a single row of them, trench
a space 7 feet 6 inches wide. For a standard
or one bush or pyramid, trench a space 8 feet
across. For bush fruits, only half the spaces
denoted above will suffice.

Position. — Then, of course, there is the position
to be c<tnsidered, not only for the fruit trees, but
also for ordinary vegetables and flowers. Fruit
trees certainly need some shelter from north-east
and south-west winds. Low sheltering fences or
walls, which break the force of the wind without
unduly obstructing air and light, are the best.
Then, it follows that the fruit trees must have a
position to their advantage without any dis-

IIOVV TO PLANT BUSH FRUITS. THE

DI.\GRAMS
TK.XT.

advantage to other crops. Rows of tall-growing
trees should always be planted on the south side
of a broad path, as then the shadow they cast
falls on the path, and not on the crops on the

Ai;r, l-ULLY E.XPLAINED IN THE

Black Currants do

'^/f777/7r:////77/?^f^777?/S^^

o

-^-mi:_^^

PLANTING STANDARD, BUSH AND CORDON APPLES AND PEARS.

other sid<'.
cool ([ii.irlcr.

How to Plant the Trees and Buslies.— I will

first deal with Black, Red and White Currants,
and Raspberries and Gooseberries. Fig. .\ shows
at No. I a young Black Currant ; No. 2, a Goose-
berry, the two thin, lower shoots of which must
be removed ; No. 3, a Red or White Currant.
No. 4 shows a rooted Black Currant cutting ;
the buds, «, a, must be retaijied. No. 5 shows a
Red Currant cutting ; the basal or stem buds, 6, 6,
must be picked out, also any showing on the
stems of White Currants or Gooseberries. No. 6
shows a weakly Raspberry cane, and No. 7 a
strong one ; after cutting off the tiny sucker, a,
plant such a cane. These few hints will be useful as
regards the preparation of bush fruits for planting.
The distance apart from bush to bush when forming
plantations is shown at No. 8. Raspberries — single
plants — must be 18 inches apart ; and if planted
to form clumps of three or five canes, in rows 4 feet
6 inches asimder, as shown respectively at No. g.
Apples and Pears.— Fig. B at No. i shows how
to plant and stake a standard tree, and No. 2
how to fix the tying material. Nos. 3 and 4
show a bush .\pple and a pyramid Pear respectively
after planting. No. 5 depicts how to fix a wire trellis
for espalier trees ; No. 6 how to train single cordons
on low walls ; and No. 7 how to train the branches
of a fan-shaped specimen on a wall. No. 8 repre-
sents a cordon trained on low wires near a path,
and No. 9 a double, upright cordon. The latter
furnishes wall pillars very nice'y. Plant firmly while
the soil is pretty dry, and ijake the latter firm
around the roots Q. q.

530

THE GARDEN.

[October i8, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Gladioli. — As tlic ioliage becoiups matured,
lliisf should be lifted, spreading them out in a
frame, sfied, or some other dry place till they can
be cleaned off, afterwards storing them in a cool,
dry place for the winter.

Montbretias. — In some localities these will
stand the winter quite well in the borders ; but in
cold, damp situations it is wise to lift and treat
them much in the same way as Gladioli; but,
tlie bulbs being smaller, they will not stand the
same amount of drying.

Begonias that were lifted from the beds should
now be m a dry enough condition to warrant their
being cleaned over, removing the old shoots care-
fully and all loose soil, when they also should be
stored in boxes or trays in a dry shed that is not
ti)o warm.

Cannas I have found grow best if they are not
allowed to get too dry during the winter. Remove
all the decaying foliage from the plants that have
been lifted, when they may be stored in a cool,
dry house with a little light soil or leaves among
the roots. I have also brought them through
the winter very successfully in an ordinary cold
frame well protected with dry leaves.

Tlie Pleasure Grounds.
Good, Deep Trenching is most essential

where shrubs are to be planted, as rarely can the
soil be moved much afterwards.. Very poor
soils should be enriched with some good loam,
peat, leaf-soil, or manure, according to "the nature
of the shrubs that are to occupy the ground,
though fairly good and holding loam rarely needs
much enriching for ordinary shrubs.

Planting.— It is full early for planting, but
there is no need to delay it after the soil has got
wet enough to allow the plants to come up with
good balls of soil, early-planted shrubs having by
far the best chance of going through the following
summer without ill-effects.

Plants Under Glass.

Specimen Plants, such as Bougainvilleas,
Clerodendrous and Allamandas, may be removed
for the winter months to a cool house : in fact,
a resting fruit-house is a very good place in which
to winter them.

Roof Climbers, wherever possible, should be
shortened back or tied in, so as to admit as much
light as possible to the plants underneath, and in
many instances water need only be given now in
very sparing quantities, so as to rest the plants
as far as possible.

Fuchsias.— Old plants that are to be kept over
for another season should now be in a fit conditnm
for storing, and if there is not room to store them
in a cool, dry greeidiouse, any old shed w-here frost
can be entirely excluded will do for them, dry
straw placed among the pots and among the wood
often making them quite secure, where, if not
covered, they might get the frost during a very
severe spell.

Young Plants that may be growing on through
llic winter to make specimens should be very
carefully watered, or, if the temperature happens
to be rather high, the growth will become soft and
attenuated, and this is not desirable.

Freesias. — The early-potted plants are now
growing freely, and if they are wanted in flower
by Christmas, they must be given just a little
heat A very light and warm frame will suit them
well but a shelf in a rather warm greenhouse will
probably keep the foliage a little harder and
stronger. Stake as soon as required, for once
the grcvth goes down, distorted flower-spikes are
the result.

Chrysanthemums will need a fair amount of
attention just now, and all damped petals must
be removed before they affect others near them,
hire-heat now is quite essential at night, and where
the blooms are near the ventilators, tiffany stretched
above them will possibly prevent a good deal
of trouble from damping. Avoid draiiglits thnaigli
the house as much as possible, as I believe more
blooms are lost from this cause than from any other,
so restrict the front ventilation during damp or
foggy weather.

The Kitchen Garden.

Carrots. — Growing crops in frames should have
the lights put on at night now, as a sharp frost
would practically stop their growth, and pro-
viding there is the faintest suspicion of warmth
in the bed, they will continue growing for
some little time yet. Matured roots should
be kept drier, as even small Carrots will be found
to split if given too much water after their growth
is practically finished.

Mint that may have been grown on in boxes
as advised in an early calendar may now be intro-
ducea into heat in sufficient quantity to keep up a
supply, and if it has been allowed to get rather dry,
I find it comes along fairly quickly after a soaking
or two of water, and once it gets a start, liquid
manure-water is a distinct advantage.

Hardy Fruit.

In every garden where a quantity of fruit is
grown there is each season a proportion of the trees
that would be benefited by a change of position.
Certain varieties may not do well in the position
they are in, which, if shifted, say, on to liigher
ground or, maybe, on to lighter soil, might prove
highly remunerative, so that wherever trees are
found to be doing badly and which have been root-
pruned with a view to improving their cropping
qualities, they might well be given another chance.

Trees Planted in Heavy, Wet Soils often do

very badly, particularly Pears, and in one instance
I noted, after they were lifted bodily and planted
from 9 inches to a foot higher out of the ground,
the trees commenced to give good, clean crops,
and the inference drawn from this is that under
such conditions trees cannot w'ell be planted too
near the surface.

Preparation of Ground tor Planting. — Here

again 1 would emphasise the necessity of thoroughly
preparing the ground before planting, either by
trenching deeply the wliole of the ground in the
case of planting in the garden, or, if for orchard
culture, breaking up really good stations for them,
in no case less than from 8 feet to lO feet across.
It may not tie necessary to add manure to the
soil ; rather add old mortar rubble, leaf-soil, or
anything of a light'ehing nature on close, retentive
soil, and good loam or a- proportion of clay, W'cll
incorporated, into soils that are too light.
Thomas Stevenson.
{Head-gardener to E. Mocatta. Esq.)
Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.
Lifting and Storing Dahlias. — These showy

autumn flowers cannot be expected to do dut>'
much longer, and must soou be lifted and stored.
A dry day should be selected for the work. Cut
the plants down to within 5 inches of the ground
and lilt carefully with a digging fork.

Spring Bedding. — There is nothing to be gained,
but rather the contrary, by delaying this work
longer. Clear away the summer bedders and
give the beds or borders a dressing of half-decayed
manure. Dig deeply, leaving a nice smooth surface.
Last year, in a geometrical design of twenty beds
here, fourteen of them were planted with Royal
Blue Forget-me-not, and the remainder (fairly
large beds) were filled with three varieties of
Wallflower, and so pleasing was the effect that
we are going to repeat the arrangement this year.

The Rose Garden.

Firming Plants. — The more vigorous varie-
ties of Roses are often a good deal knocked about
by the autumn winds, and upon close examination
it will be found that they have been loosened at
the neck. The whole stock should be gone over,
and anv plants which have thus suffered should
be firnied with the foot, the plant being held
in position by one hand meanwhile.
The Rock Garden.

Building. — Unless one is deahng with a natural
slope furnished with loamy soil, the surface should,
before building commences, be covered with from
6 inches to 12 niches of soil of the nature indicated.
Where height is desired and anatural slope does not
exist, part of the desired heigRt should be obtained
by means of excavation, the excavated soil being

thrown up some distance above the ground-level
on either side. By this means moisture will be
largely conserved and less watering required.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Sanding Lawns. — Of the utility of this operation
there can be no doubt, more especially on heavy
soils. It furnishes a free root-run for the finer
grasses, checks the growth of moss, and makes it
more easy to maintain a perfectly smooth surface.
The sand should be scattered over the surface as
evenly as possible by the hand, and the lawn should
afterwards be gone over with a new Birch broom
to further ensure the proper dispersal of the sand.

Gravelling Walks. — Walks requiring fresh gravel
should have attention in the autumn in preference
to spring, for several reasons : Work is not so
pressing at this season, everything should be done
to make things look fresh and bright during the
dull days of winter, and, bv attending to the work
now, the walks will be cleaner and drier during
wet winter weather.

Plants Under Glass.

Deciduous Calanthes. — These beautiful terres-
trial Orchids will now be showing colour, and
should enjoy a fairly warm temperature with rather
dry conditions both at the root and in the atmo-
sphere, otherwise damping is sure to take place.
These flowers always seem to look their best when
associated with Ferns.

Perpetual-Flowering Carnations. — Whenever

the temperature falls below -ts'. a little fire-heat
should be applied. Air should be given when the
weather is at all fine, but not during fog. as it
tends to curl up the bli.toms. If good blooms are
expected, disbudding must be attended to as
these develop.

Fruits Under Glass.

Guavas. — Although not fit to be classed among
first-class fruits, still, these West Indian fruits
commend themselves to some tastes. Where the
Vines are allowed ample room, Guavas succeed
very well on the back wall of a vinery. They
must have a thoroughly well-drained soil, which
should chiefly consist of sandy fibrous loam with
an admixture of leaf-mould and dried cow-manure.

Pot Fruits. — Any of these which have not
yet gone to rest will be benefited by an application
of weak liquid manure to assist in the process of
swelling the buds. As the trees naturally go to
rest, however, water should be more sparingly
applied.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Replanting. — Tlie trouble generally, with Apples
and Pears especially, is not so much to get them
to grow as to throw them into and maintain them
m a fruiting condition ; in other words, to induce
the trees to produce fewer wood-buds and more
fruit-buds. A fortnight ago I referred to root-
pruiling as one means of attaining the desired
end. .Another means is that of lifting the trees
and replanUpg them. The check to the trees
consequent upon this operation generally has the
desired effect, and marvellous results have some-
times been obtained by this means with trees
which have been barren for years. Some culti-
vators invariably lift and replant their young
trees after tliey h.ive made their first year's growth.

The Vegetable Garden.

Cauliflowers. — in many districts sharp frosts
air often experienced about this season. When
such is tlie case, all Cauliflowers fit for use should
be lifted and stored in a cellar. They can either be
laid in among soil or hung up head downwards.
I heard the other day of the latter method succeed-
ing well in a disused' ice-house.

Celery. — Continue to earth-up the crop as
necessary, and when the final earthing is given,
finish off with a smooth, sloping surface, so as to
carry off the winter rains as far as possible.

Asparagus. — As soon as the grass has died
down, cut it over and clear it away, remembering
that It forms a good protection for beds of bulbous
plants which are barely hardy. ."Mter removing
any remaining weeds, give a liberal dressing of
haif-rotted farmyard manure and fork it in with
the digging fork.

Lifting Rhubarb Stools.— It is found that

Rhubarb responds more readily to forcing when
tlie stools have been lifted for some time and
exposed to the clemency of the weather.

Charles Comfort.
Broom field Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

October i8, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

531

NURSERY NOTES.

WILL TOBACCO PAY IN ENGLAND?

IT is quite within the bounds of possibiUty tliat
Tobacco-growing will develop into a large
industry in this country within a few years.
Experiments of a very satisfactory natiu'e have
been carried out in Hampshire, Surrey, Norfolk,
Suffolk, Lincolnshire and Worcestersliire. About
one hundred and thirty acres have this year .been
laid down by the Tobacco Growers' Society — a non-
profit-making co-operative association affiliated to
the .Agricultural Organisation Society and assisted
by grants from tlie Development Commission. Speak-
ing generally, the crops in the various counties have
exceeded expectations ; but as the subject is yet in
its infancy, it is of little use going into elaborate
calculations on yields and averages at this stage.
It is suggested that Tobacco will prove to be a poor
soil crop. There is a difference of
opinion on this point at present, but
the plea is that Tobacco is going
to do well on the poor light land
in Norfolk, Hampshire and Dorset, which
at present is of little more than
sporting value. Be tliis as it may,
we are undoubtedly handicapped in the
question of climatic conditions. It may
not be generally known that Tobacco
owes its flavour in no small degree
to the gum or sticky secretion upon tlie
leaf. As tliis is formed on the upper
side of the leaf, it is only too readily
removed by heavy rains. Moreover,
the leaves are liable to damage by
wind as well as rain. Now, these adverse
conditions may be overcome by the
'modem invention of movable glasshouses.
The system has reached a high standard
of perfection, and by its use the
inventor, Mr. Pullen Bury, Sompting,
near Worthing, claims to have solved
the problems of Tobacco-growing m
this cotmtry. The system of movable
glasshouses is the outcome of experi-
ments extending over many years, and
so admirably has the principle been per-
fected that the pipes, boiler, wires,
ventilating gear, &c., are all moved in
one simple operation by turning a handle.
Such structiu'es are being very profit-
ably used for the purpose of growing
Asparagus and French garden crops, and
they afford just the necessarj* protection to
bring the Tobacco leaf to a state of perfec-
tion. Otu' illustration depicts a movable house tilled
with Tobacco. Mr. Pullen Bury (the figure on the left
of the illustration) is seen holding some Tobacco
leaves of good but average size. These leaves, it
should be noted, have small midribs — an important
point in their favour ; but the blades of the leaves are
well expanded. This is the result of quick growth,
brought on under glass, and such leaves are said to
give quality and mildness to the Tobacco produced.
At the time of our visit to Worthing, Tobacco leaves
were seen hanging from the wires inside the hothouse
to wilt while the hothouse is fulfilling the function of
forcing. As already stated, it is as yet too early
to say, with any degree of certainty, that Tobacco-
growing can be made a paying industry in this
country. That it can be induced to flourish there
can be no doubt, and if only a tithe of the Tobacco
sold in this country could likewise be grown here,
it would provide a vast industry.

MESSRS. H. MERRYWEATHER AND

SONS.

There are few better-known nurseries in the
Midland Counties of England than those of
Messrs. H. Merryweather and Sons, a firm that
has been established for many years at the
historical little cathedral town of Southwell,
some twenty miles from the city of Nottingham.
For gardeners generally, and fruit-growers in

acres planted with standard trees of this .\pple
a few years ago, the work being entrusted to
Messrs. Merryweather, and it is one of the finest
examples of orchard planting that we have ever
seen. If the Development Commissioners desire
a lesson in orchard planting, they should visit
Southwell and see this orchard, which is rapidly
growing into a most valuable asset. In addition
to the ordinary Bramley's Seedling, Messrs. Merry-
weather now have a form of it with red fruits.

particular, these nurseries have a peculiar interest, which ought to prove particularly useful for market.

inasmuch as it was from them that the well-known
culinary Apple Bramley's Seedling was first put
into commerce. For many years Mr. Merry-
weather, who is the senior partner of the firm,
endeavoured, though in many instances unsuccess-
fully, to induce fruit-growers in many parts of
the country to plant this Apple on a large scale.
Meanwhile, knowing that he had a variety of
sterling merit, he was busy planting all the spare

The Merryweather Damson, of which we pub-
lished a coloured plate in our issue of October 22,
igio, is a fruit that ought to be in every garden.
We were privileged to see the original tree in the
nurseries at Southwell, and it was simply laden
with rich-coloured fruits, many of which were as
large as Orleans Plum. When we say that it has
the true Damson flavour and that the trees fruit
well in quite a young state, we think it will be
admitted that our statement that it
ought to be in every garden is fully
justified. Another good fruit that this
firm has raised is Red Currant The
Southwell. It has a particularly robust
habit, flowers late, so as to escape
damage by frost, and bears heavy
crops of deep red berries, the flavour
of which leaves nothing to be desired.
In addition to the above, the firm has
splendid stocks of all kinds of hardy
fruits, including cordon Gooseberries,
espalier Apples and Pears, fan-shaped
Plums and Peaches, Loganberries, the
newer Lowberry, Blackberries and Nuts,
and all, at the time of our visit, were
in the very pink of condition, sturdy,
well-ripened wood auguring well for
their success when the trees and bushes
are planted in their permanent quarters.
Equally as important a branch of
Messrs. Merryweather's business is that
devoted to Roses. This year they have
over two hundred thousand bushes to
dispose of, these embracing large quanti-
ties of all the best standard sorts as
well as the cream of recent introductions.
When growing Roses in our gardens, we
ought not to forget that it was this firm
that first gave us those two gems of the
Dwarf Polyantha section, Jessie and
Phyllis. When we were at Southwell
these were creating a wonderful sight,
rows about two htmdred yards long
being a perfect glow of colour. Jessie has
flowers of rich, warm crimson hue, while
land that he had, and the result to-day is that he those of Phyllis are bright rosy pink. Having grown

TOBACCO-GROWING UNDER GLASS. MR. PULLEN BURY, THE
INVENTOR OF THE MOVABLE HOTHOUSE SYSTEM, IS
SEEN ON THE LEFT OF THE ILLUSTRATION.

has orchards of large dimensions filled with beautiful
trees that are capable of bearing from ten to twelve
bushels of fruit each. During recent years fruit-
growers and salesmen have awakened to the
possibilities of this Apple, which is in season from
Christmas until April, with the result that the
demand for trees and fruit all over the cotmtry is
far in excess of the supply.

On a simny day in September we had the pleasure
of spending some time in the nurseries and orchards
belonging to the firm, and the trees of this
Apple, ranging from five to thirty years of age,
were a sight worth going many miles to see. In
the gardens in the district one also meets with
trees on every hand, one and all bearing enormous
crops of fruit second to none for culinary pur-
poses. Not far from the firm's nurseries, Mr.

them for several years, we have no hesitation in
saying that they are the best of the whole section,
for they are never out of flower from early July
until October or November frosts call a halt.
Another point in their favour is that they do not
lose their colour in the strongest sunshine. We
would like to see large lawn beds of these Roses.
A circular one some ten yards in diameter, planted
fairly thickly in the centre with Jessie and a yard-
wide edging of the white-flowered Kathcrine
Zeimet, would be most effective, and far better
and much more lasting than the bizarre and expen-
sive effects so often obtained by the use of Zonal
Pelargoniums and other plants still so dear to the
heart of many gardeners. Phyllis, intermixed
with Lavender in the proportion of two Rose
bushes to one of Lavender, would give a

Starkey, the local M.P., had a field of forty ' charming and uncommon effect that would, we

I

532

THE GARDEN.

[October i8, 1913,

feel sure, be much appreciated by all who saw it.
Among Roses of recent introduction we were
interested to see good stocks of British Queen, a
large, pure white-flowered variety ; Rayon d'Or,
deep canary yellow and quite mildew-proof ;
Sunburst, cadmium yellow and perfect in shape ;
Florence Haswell Veitch, rich crimson, very
fragrant ; and Mrs. Herbert Stevens, pure white
and \ery useful for florists. Of rather older sorts,
but as yet new to many of our readers, mention
must be made of ChSteau de Clos Vougeot, deep
i,rimson maroon ; Lieutenant Chaure, large crimson,
very fragrant ; Leslie Holland and Edward Mawley,
both crimson ; Lady Alice Stanley, pink, shaded
glowing rose ; and Marquise de Sinety, a deep-
coloured Mme. Ravary. Among the Rambler
Roses, of which Messrs. Merryweather have a
very extensive stock, mention must be made of
Excelsa, glowing crimson ; Shower of Gold, yellow
and very hardy ; Lady Godiva, a salmon pink
sport from Dorothy Perkins ; White Dorothy
Perkins, American Pillar and Hiawatha.

In addition to Roses and fruit trees, the firm has
a very fine stock of English and Irish Yews,
Cypresses and other conifers. Rhododendrons,
all sorts of hardy deciduous shrubs, herbaceous
plants and, indeed, everything that one would
expect to find in well-equipped nurseries of such
large dimensions. The healthy condition of this
stock and the firm's up-to-date method of business
have brought them repeat orders from every
comer of the British Isles, as well as from many
more distant parts of the globe.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— T/it; Editor mtends to
make The Garden helpjul to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardeniiig may be, and
with that object ivill make a special ieatnre of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communiiations thould be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the EDITOR of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. TTAcn wore than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the platit. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.

THE GREENHOUSE.

BLUE HYDRANGEA FLOWERS {Mrs. N. W.).—A
shade of blue in Hjdrangea flowers such as those sent
is not uncommon. In soils containing plentj of iron sonic
of the blooms, if not all, invariably develop the blue tint.
It is possible to produce the colour in plants b> giving them
water in which alum has been dissolved. Another method
which is sometimes successful is to mix a few iron filings in
the potting soil.

DRYING OFF HIPPEASTRUMS (Dorset).— Bo not dry
off your Hippeastrums till the leaves turn yellow, but give
them plenty of air and sunshine. Then, when the plants
show signs of going to rest, less water should be given, and
when they are quite dormant it must be discontinued
altogether. During winter keep them dry in a temperature
of 50" to 60°.

LILIUM LONGIFLORUM HARRISII {C. B. ^.).— In
order to have these in flower at Christma'i, the mo^t
satisfactory way will be to obtain retarded bulbs, which
in a temperature of 55" to 65° will flower from twelve to
fifteen months from the time of potting. Single bulbs,
according to their size, may be grown in 5-inch or 6-inch
pots, while three can be put in a pot 6 inches to 7 inches
in diameter. When crowing they should have a good
light position assigned to them, and care mu.st be taken
that aphides or green fly do not eft'ect a lodgment in the
young leaves, as they soon injure the growing buds. The
Bermuda-tirown bulbs of Lilium Harrisii will, if potted
now. flower during the month of January or later. There
is no need to start the bulbs in the dark ; just pot them
and place them in the greenhouse.

TREATMENT OF CCELOGYNE CRISTATA (Dorset). —
In tlie spring, as soon as the flowers are over, the plants
should be given a short rest by lessening the supply of water,
but not sufficient to cause the pseudo-bulbs to shrivel.
When young grovrth recommences, repotting, if necessary,
may be done, but the plants take a long time to recover
from the shock. For this reason, should the roots be in
good condition, top-dressing is generally preferred to
repotting. Deep pans are preferable to pots, and a very
suitable compost,, either for repotting or top-dressing, may
he made of equal parts of sphagnum moss and fibrous peat
or Osmunda flltre. with a sprinkling of smnll broken crocks
and rough silver sand. After this an excess of moisture
must be guarded against, though atmospheric moisture
set up by occasional spraying, with the damping of the
stages and surroundings, will be beneficial. During the
winter the roots must tie kept moderately moist. At that
season a temperatiu-e of 50° to 60° will suit it well.

FRUIT GARDEN.

TOMATO DISEASE (JT.).— The Tomato is badly
nourished. Sulphate of potash should be added to the
soil : this will tend to the equal ripening of all parts of
the fruit.

PEAR FOR INSPECTION (Reader). — The Pear is
overripe and has been attacked by the Pear scab fungus.
Prune out during the winter all dead and dying shoots,
and spray the tree just as tlxe buds burst, and again after
the petals fall, witli BonUaux mixture.

APPLE EMPEROR ALEXANDER GOING BAD (H.
Taylor). — 'i'lils JiMc-litnkiirj Appl'' should be ripe at the
end of Sopti'iiil.iT, ami is tliereforp an attraction to
wasps and blowflies. We can only suggest that the fruit
has been injured by these pests, the injury spreading
in the further decay of those parts. The fruit should
have been gathered as soon as the decay was noticed.
W^e could have given you a better answer, perhaps, had
you sent us a sample of the bad Apples.

TO MAKE WALL TREES BEAR FRUIT (L. A.).~
In the first place, we would have the wall pointed so as
to do away with the harbour the deep creWces in it afford
to insect pests. In the next place, we should lift the
trees and replant, after cutting all the strong roots back
by one-third their length, and shortening also all the
smaller roots by 3 inches or 4 inches. This will prevent
the trees growing too luxuriantly, and should compel
them to bear fruit. In replanting, use the following soil
compost : To one cartload of turfy loam add two bushels
of old mortar rubble, two bushels of lime and a peck of
bone-meal, mixing all well together. Let the work be
done in dry weather, and give the trees a good watering
when planting is finished. Fertilise the blossoms on
sunny days when the pollen is dry. Take down the close
netting every day while the weather is favourable, and
put it up again in the evening when danger from frost
is feared.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

CELERY (J. C. S. C.).— The Celery is badly attacked
hy the funcus Septoria petroselini Apii. causing the
disease known as Celery leaf-spot. This funjnis is exceed-
ingly common, we fear, now, and is undoubtedly carried
in tlie seed. Spraying, to be effective, must be commenced
in May and carried on through the season, Bordeau.x
mi.Kture being the best thing to use. All dead pieces and
refuse from Celery plants shoidd be bnrned, and not dug
into the ground, and next season a fresh piece of ground
should be chosen upon which to plant. The seed should
be obtained from a clean source.

Elm and Plane trees, and it would be difficult to get plants
having screen-like habits to succeed in their proximity
Then, in place of the single line of Roses, which, by the way'
are arranged too closely together at the edge of the lawn'
a bed or border across its western end would have been
better, and in full view from the tent. Good Roses for
the pergola would be Lady Gay, Griiss an Teplitz. Sylvia
Tausendschan, Shower of Gold. Celine Forestier' and'
Bordeaux. Free-flowering Ro.ses for the garden should
include Caroline Testout, Mme. Abel Cliatenay, La France
Marquise de Sinety, General Jacqueminot, Prince CamiUe
de Rohan. Chateau de Clos Vougeot, General Macarthur
and Duchess of Albany. Standards arc usually avail.ahle
of most of those named, thougn we think bush plants would
be more suitable in your case. The Moss and Cabbage
Roses may be had from any Rose-grower. It is rather
difficult to recommend plants for the herbaceous borders
and if they are intended to grow under the Elm and Plane'
we do not hold out much hope of success. Good plants
for the season indicated would include Phloxes. Pent-
stemons. Hollyhocks. Sunflowers (single and double).
Aster acris, A. Amellus, Michaelmas Daisies in variety^
GaiUardias, Statice latifolia, any of the Japanese Anemones'
Selenium purailura. H. p. magniflcum and H. cupreum. '
NAMES OF FRUIT.— Mril. C. P. B.—l, Wellington;
a, Braralcy's Seedling ; 3, AUington ; 4, Lord Grosvenor ;

5, Lord Sufficld ; 6, Ribston Pippin ; 7, Blenheim Orange ;
8. Cox's Orange Pippin ; 10, Cobham Pippin ; 11, Warner's
King ; 12, Cellini ; 14, Hawthomden ; 22, Emperor
Alexander ; 23, King of the Pippins ; 20, Hall Door ;
21, .Ellington ; 24, Queen Caroline ; 25, Gloria Mundi ;
15, Mank's Codlin ; 16, Bismarck; 17, Alfriston ; 26,

Cellini ; 19, Lane's Prince Albert. Constant Reader.

Perthshire. — 1, Lord Derby ; 2. Queen Caroline ; 3 and 1.
Ki-dleston Pippin.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— HaroM Os«ere.— Laurent Carle.

D. B. D. — We believe the Rose is Mme. Pol Varin

Bcrnier; certainly it is not Alice Grahame. LietU.-

Colonel U. F. Bent. — We believe the Rose is correctly
named. Roses vary greatly at this season of the year.

A. K.. Burnshanijie. — All seedling forms of Aster Novi-

Belgii. Mrs. B., Sutherland. — Rhacomitriura canescens.

It may be grown on damp rocks. P. C. B.— The

Clematis may be C. Flammula, but we cannot be certain

without seeing flowers. Mus H. B. — CoUinsia bicolor.

Matthew. — 1, Carex brunnea variegata ; 2, Begonia

metalliea ; 3, B, fuchsioides; 4, Aloe species; 6, Adion-
tnm pidverulentum ; 6, Nephrolepis Piersonii variety;
7, Adiantum formosum ; 8, Selacinella Braunii ; 9,
Nephrodium moUe ; 10 and 11, No specimen; 12. Poly-
podium aureum ; 16, .\spleniura species. A. P., Sussex.

— 1, Aster ericoides variety ; 2, Chrysanthemum lUigi-
nosum ; 3, Linaria Cymbalaria ; 4, Colutea arborcscens

(Bladder Senna) ; 5, Cannot name without flowers.

J. E. L. — 1, Crinum species probably (cannot name with-
out flowers) ; 2, Hieracium aurantiacum ; 3, Colchicum
speciosum ; 4, Cattleya bicolor ; 5, Escallonia macrantha ;■

6, Osmanthus Aquifolium ; 7, Phillyrea media. R. T. H.

— 1, Helxine Solierolii ; 2 and 3, cannot name without
flowers.

MISCELLANEOUS.

SUBSTITUTE FOR NATURAL MANURE (S. P.).—
Wakeley's Hop Manure is the best substitute that we
know for natural manure, although, of course, natural
manure is the best where it can be obtained.

GROWTH ON BEECH LEAVES (Hortis).~-T\ie curious
growth on the Beech leaf is the work of a minute insect,
Hormomyia betulina, which sets up irritation in the leaf
and causes it to produce this curiously-shaped gall. It
is rather common on Beech trees in some districts.

CATERPILLAR OF THE VAPOURER MOTH (R. C.).—
The caterpillar is that of the vapourer moth. When
abundant these caterpillars do a good deal of damage,
but are rarely so numerous that spraying has to be resorted
to. If they are found in any great numbers, spray the
trees with lead arsenate.

CATERPILLARS (E. E. /.).— The caterpillars are thosr
of the type known as surface grubs, which feed on a variety
of plants during the night, hiding during the day in the
earth, where, from their colour, they are well concealed.
Hand-picking is the best remedy, but heaps of bran,
poisoned by moistening with Paris green or lead arsenate,
placed near the plants might prove attractive to them,
to their undoing.

REMAKING GRAVEL PATHS (5cof).— There is nothing
to ((lual jiood, yellow, binding gravel for the surface of
thr paths which" are to be kept smooth by rolling, and we
niiret to say that we are unable to recommend any otlier
material ofa like character which may be procured in
Scotland. Perhaps a local builder may be able to suggest
something, or be able to advise yo\i as to the nearest point
at which bindiiiL' LTavcl may be obtained.

HOLIDAY COTTAGE GARDEN (F. M. IT.).— The general
outline of the plan will do very well. It does not indicate,
however, where you are likely to be overlooked and sub-
jected to the objection of which you complain. This is
important, since on the northern and eastern boundaries
yon have either existing, or you intend planting, both

THE EDITOR'S TABLE.

Pentstemons from Scotland. — The arrival of a
box containing numerous spikes of Pentstemon
blooms serves to remijid us of the great value of
these showy flowers even late in the season. The
flowers came from Messrs. John Forbes of Hawick,
who have long specialised in Pentstemons and
various other border plants. Of the varieties sent
we were much impressed by those of dark crimson
shades, of which Grigor, Mendel and Colonel
Seely may be cited as examples. Of the scarlet
varieties Professor Pozzi stood out conspicuously,
while Lady Hamilton and Comte Zeppelin were
notable for their plum red hues and very strong
growth. The more delicate tints of Mrs. Oliver,
Jessie Forbes, Sir William Carrington and others
are particularly pleasing when used as cut flowers
for room decoration.

Gladioli from Dorset. — Very fine indeed were
the massive spikes of Gladioli which arrived with
the following note from Mr. F. Lansdell of Ingle-
wood Nursery, West Moors, Dorset ; " I am
sending you a few blooms of Gladioli for your table.
Princeps (the crimson one) is a glorious sight
when planted in clumps of eight to twelve corms.
It is not so well known as the pink one (America),
but is far more effective for border work than that
variety. White America seems the favourite
for shop work. Another sterling variety is Halley,
as large in bloom and spike as princeps, but of a
salmon colour. Unfortunately, this is over, and
I was unable to send you a spike."

^^^M^^

GARDEN.

^^^iS^

No. 2188.— Vol. LXXVII.

October 25, 1913.

CONTBNTS.

Notes of the Weer
Correspondence

Rock garden plant-
in October . .

Rose Mrs. Jaine»
Lynas

Lilac flowerinii in
October .. ..

An unusual flower-
bed arrangement

Are new Pentstemons
too large ? . .

The charm of
Michai'linas Daisies

Rose Fort line's
Yellow
OCTOBER IN Garden

AND Woodland ..

l-'orthcominj; events..

The Campanulas or

Bellflowers
Greenhouse

The Persian Cycla-
men as a biennial
Flower Garden

Tulip notes . .

A littU-known Torch
Lily

Eiiiilish Irises

Hybrid Lilies
C'OLouRKD Plate

A new culinary Ajiiile

533

534
535
535
535
535
535
535

535
535

536
537

538
538
538

Trees asi> Shrubs
Some uood autumn*

flowering shrubs 538
Climbins plants on
a garden pillar . . 539
Rose Garden
In a Hampshire •

garden . . . . 539
Roses in church-
yards 540

Gardening for Beginners
Rooting cuttings

under bell-glasses 541
Hints on wintering
greenhouse bul b.- 541
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 542

For Korthcrii gar-
dens 542

KJTonEN Gardes
Some uncommon

vegetables . . . . 543
The culture of Pota-
toes 543

TRIALS AT WlSLET IN

1914-15 543

ANSWERS to Corre-
spondents
Flower garden . . 54-1
Trees and shrubs . . 544
Rose gnrden . . . . 544
Miscellancnns . . 544

IIiLUSTRATIONS.

Au Octobcr-rtowcriiiL; iilpim- : Aibillca Krllereri .. 534

Campanula thyrsoidca 536

Campanula Stansfleldi 537

A handsome Torch Lily or Red-hot Poker . . . . 538

A new culinary Apple Coloured plate

Clematis montana and Solanum crispum 539

An old bush of Rose Gloite de Dijon 540

Another veteran Rose bush at South Weald . . . . 540

Rooting cuttings under bell-glasses 541

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

T/ie Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notet:.
bi(t he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, hoivever, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainli/ stated.
It jmist be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the rAnm of artistic
or literary contributiotis which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken ax eridenre that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Ofices : 20, Tavistock Street, Corent Garden, W'.f.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

The National Sweet Pea Society. — The anmial
general niet-Uiig nf the members ol this society
was held at the Hotel Windsor, Victoria Street,
Westminster, on Monday afternoon last. A report
of the proceedings, which were of an animated
character, appears on another page.

Orders for Rose and Fruit Trees. — Owing t>

the exceptionally mild weather, Roses and fruit
trees are still growing freely, and in many nurseries
it is impossible to start lifting them. Under the
circumstances, we hope that those of our readers
who have placed orders with ad\-ertisers will not
press for early deli\'ery.

Lifting Begonias. — The first touch of frost
will finish "ft these tender plants for the season.
Lift them carefully and store them away in a cool
place where they will be immune frotn frost. It
is a good plan to place a little dry soil in the bottoms
of shallow boxes and place the tubers in these
thickly, one deep, with the crown upwards.
Trea ed thus, the percentage of loss is very small.

A Graceful Knotweed (Polygonum equiseti-

fortnCl. — Tlll^ little-kuowli Knotweed is speeiallv
noteworthy as an autuirm-fiowering subject fi,>r
the rock garden. The plant is of Broom-like
appearance, of low, branching habit. The dark
green stems are dotted with small white starry
flowers, which are both showy and welcome in
October. This Polygonum is well adapted for plant-
ing among high rocks, so that the low, arching sprays
may hang down and partly clothe the boulders.

An October-flowering Saxifrage. — In a sheltered

nook in the rork garden or along the front of a
shrubbery border the panicles of white flowers
of Saxifraga Fortunei are delightful in late autunrn.
This year, if anything, the plants are flowering
better than usual, the mild weather and warm
rains being, no doubt, responsible for this. The
panicles of flowers rise out of tufts of dark green,
rounded leaves to a height of from 15 inches to
18 inches. The white flowers are ven,- freely borne
on the comparatively large spreading panicles. An
interesting botaiiical character is the unequal size of
the petals. Fortune's Saxifrage is a native of Japan.

Planting Lily of the Valley.— The Lily of the
\'allev is quite a universal favourite, and few
gardens exist where this well-known plant does
not find a home ; but to keep up a good supply
of first-rate blooms a new bed should be formed
every three or four years, either by freshly planting
an old bed or by new plants obtained. The present
time will be found the most suitable for the opera-
tion, selecting a half-shady, moist place in not
too prominent a position, for the ground is bare
a good deal of the year. Should the soil be too
light, some good loam with decayed manure should
be worked into the soil ; but if, on the other hand,
it should be too heavy and damp, dig it out to a
depth of 2 feet, putting in 5 inches of drainage. On
tl'.e top of this lay some peat sods or turfy loam.

then replace some of the soil after mixing with
it some leaf-soil and dry cow-manure. Put the
roots in 2 inches deep and 4 inches apart, and a
good mulching afterwards will be fomid very
beneficial.

An Interesting Tropical Fruit. — -A plant of

Eugenia alb.i growing in a pot on one of the side
stages in the Palm House at Kew is causing con-
siderable interest among the visitors by reason of
its uncommon-looking fruits. Perhaps the easiest
way to describe these fruits is to liken them to the
white sugar Pears hung on a Christmas tree. They
are home in clusters, generally of three to five,
at the ends of the branches. The waxy white
fruits are ij inches long and i inch wide. The
Eugenias in general habit and flowers resemble
the Myrtles, the popular Myrtus Luma being some-
times cultivated as Eugenia Luma. notably in
Ireland. E. alba is a native of India.

Mexican Tree Flowering at Kew. — The beauty

of the Mexican flora !> well illustrated by a tree
ot Pachira macrocarpa flowering in the great
Palm House at Kew. The tree has been at Kew
since 1877, and evidently delights in the moist
tropical conditions of the house, as it is about
sixty feet in height, reaching to the centra! dome.
A very handsome and attractive malvaceous
tree, the leaves resemble those of the Horse Chestnut,
being digitate, w-ith usually nine leaflets. The
flowers are large, with ver\- long white, reflexed
petals, in the centre of whch are a mass of stamens
of a reddish hue and as long as the petals. The
tree is said to have been first introduced from Mexico
in 1840, and is figured in the Botanical Magazine,
t. 4549-

"Sporting" of Lilies. — .\t a recent meeting
of tlie scientific committee of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society, Mr. C. R. Scrase-Dickins showed
a most interesting series of spec'mens of Lilium
Sargentia?. A bulb had last year produced a stem,
part of which carried the foliage of L. Sargentia?,
part foliage similar to that of L. myriophyllum. This
plant was grown from a bulbil, not from seed. This
season offsets from it bore respectively foliage
similar to that of L. Sargentiae, L. myriophyllum,
and partly of the one, partly of the other. The
flowers were indistinguishable. It would seem that
Mr. Scrase-Dickins had seen the passage of one
species of Lily into another, or that the breadth
of foliage which is constantly used as a distinguishing
feature of these plants is a character oi less import-
ance than it is usually considered. Mr. Elwes
drew attention to the remarkable variation to be
seen between Lilies as one passes up the Formosar.
Mountains, as, though one species had produced
forms adapted to the conditions under which
they were growing and regarded by botanists
who had seen only collected plants as specifically
distinct, other characters in plants which had
been used bv herbarium botanists as a basis of
classification were frequently variations of adapta-
tion as seen in the field.

534

THE GARDEN.

[October 25 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

The Campanulas. — It will probably be more
convenient for me to deal with the different points
raised in correspondence about the Campanulas
when the articles are concluded, rather than to
discuss them in a desultory fashion. I am glad
to see the remarks of Mr. Farrer and Mr. Jenkins
on different species. They will help to elucidate ques-
tions which arise in connection with several of the
smaller and also the larger BelUowers. — S. Arnott.

Rose Peace for Cool Conservatories. — I possess
a small plant of this, a rooted cutting from a very
fine specimen growing in a cool structure some-
what shaded by Fir and other kinds of trees. My
plant, about one foot high, nicely branched
already, has borne one nice bloom and now carries
another bud. The parent tree covers a roof
space of about one hundred square feet. Another

by Mr. Hugh Dickson, who received a gold medal
for it.— E. M.

Name of Fungus. — In last week's issue of The
Garden Miss Jekyll asks for the name of a fungus
growing under Scotch Firs. From her descrip-
tion I have little doubt that it is one of the two
species of Sparassis. They both bear a consider-
able resemblance to a large bath sponge, and are
very brittle in texture. Sparassis crispa is not
uncommon on sandy soil in the South of England,
usually under Firs or among Heather. S. laminosa
occurs more rarely in similar situations, but is a
looser-growing plant altogether. It was first
recorded in Britain in 1905, when it was found in
WoDlmer Forest, and a very fine specimen was
found there this autumn on the occasion of the
British Mycological Society's visit to that district.
Both species are well figured in " Fimgi and How
to Know Them," by E. W. Swanton. Although
superficially bearing a slight resemblance to a
morel, Sparassis belongs to a totally different
group 01 fungi, i.e., the Clavariaceae, of which the

AN OCTOBER-FLOWERING ALPINE : .ACHILLEA KELLERERI.

recently-rooted cutting has made much growth and
now forms a fine bush in a pot, bearing flowers on
ninety per cent, of its shoots. The old plant has
flowers on it nearly the whole year round. The
blooms are of medium size, soft yellow in colour,
and borne on stiff stems. They look charming
in vases. Amateur cultivators should have a plant
in their greenhouse or conservatory, as it is such
a lovely and satisfactory variety to grow. — G. G.

Rose Lady Pirrie. — If I were confined co one
dwarf Rose in the garden, I think I should choose
the above, for it possesses all the attributes found
in any variety. In growth it is vigorous, having
stiff, erect stems, with handsome dark leaves,
which continue to give blossoms all the summer
and well into the autumn. The peduncle is stiff,
thus holding up its flowers quite erect, which is a
distinct point when employing them for vases.
Its colour is deep coppery reddish salmon, the inside
of the petals apricot yellow, flushed fawn and
copper. It is an ideal variety for massing, also
has a delicious perfume. It was sent out in 1910

pretty little white and yellow fairy-clubs are the
most familiar examples. The spores are produced ex-
posed to the air from the first, whereas m the morels
and allied fungi the spores are enclosed in flask-like
sacs, only opening at the apex at maturity. — Norman
G. Hadden. St. Audreys, Priory Road, Malvern.

The War on Wasps. — I was much interested
to read W. W. Richardson's remarks on the war
on wasps in your issue of the i8th inst., especially
as a recent correspondent in d contemporary stated
he had frequently caught lots of queen wasps
in the ordinary wasp bottles, both in the spring
and autumn. Do you think. Sir, that some orga-
nised plan or method could be put forward for
the destruction of these pests ? Would you
encourage readers of your paper to write and tell
something of their methods as to catching queen
wasps, both in the spring and autumn ? (i) How-
to successfully organise a prize for the greatest
number caught locally. (2) Do queen wasps
really enter the ordinary wasp bottles, as the
writer has set them both in the spring, summer

and autumn and not caught queens ? (3) ia\y
other successful traps ? (4) How to manipulate
your conservatory or your stoke-hole, i.e., after
W. W. Richardson, so as to find a lot ready to be
killed at each visit. — W. F. M. Copeland. [We
shall be pleased to publish particulars dealing
with the points raised by our correspondent if
readers will kindly send them. — Ed.]

Rock Garden Plants in October.— The very
interesting note on this subject which appeared
in last week's issue, page 525, will be, read with
appreciation by lovers of alpine flowers, as
it serves to show that the rock garden may be
made beautiful with flowers at this season as well
as in the spring and summer. I was pleased to
note the prominence given to that rare Milfoil
or Yarrow, Achillea Kellereri, which induces me
to send a photograph of it as it now, appears in a
Surrey garden. It is a delightful little plant, with
heads of white flowers freely disposed over its silvery
grey foliage. This plant is named in honour of Herr
Kellerer, a lynx-eyed collector of mountain flowers,
who has charge of the King of
Bulgaria's garden at Sofia. — C. Q.

Nerines. — The article on Nerines
by Mr. H. J. Elwes in your issue of
September 13 was such an important
floricultural event that I trust it
attracted the attention to which it
was certainly entitled. As a pains-
taking student of Nerines for some
years, I acknowledge that it was
most useful and helpful to me,
especially as it cleared up several
points as to which I have been in
doubt. Like Mr. Elwes, I am much
puzzled to know why the Neriiie is
not in more general cultivation. Its
flowers are so charming, the colours
"^ £iB *" beautiful and sparkling under arti-
at>...^aB ficial light, and its requirements so
few, that it would be well if some of
the amateurs who now devote the
whole of their glasshouses in autiunn
til Chrysanthemums could be induced
to take it up, or at any rate let them
devote part of their Chrysanthemum
space to it. Its only enemy is mealy
bug, which Mr. Elwes explains how
to combat, and in other respects
it is probably one of the most
easily- cultivated under -glass bulbs
that one grows, especially as it
only needs repotting once in three years at the
most. I agree in the main with Mr. Elwes' stan-
dards of a good Nerine, but I think he should have
given a good spike more consideration. In looking
round the Royal Horticultural Society's Show at
Vmcent Square on October 7 I noticed a number of
what I call loose-panicled flowers. I like to see a
spike that stands erect, its pips evenly distributed
and a look of solid substance about it, such as
was evidenced in Mr. Elwes' Salmon Queen, which
gained an award of merit. Snowflake, of which
Mr. Elwes speaks in his article, was, as shown by him
on the above date, a distinct disappointment
to me. It was decidedly tinted pale flesh colour,
and not at all one's idea of what a pure white
Nerine should be. Speakmg agam of Salmon
Queen, it seemed, as I saw it, to bear a most remark-
able resemblance to Rotherside, of which I put
five fine plants before the Royal Horticultural
Society's floral committee a month ago. I believe
the two varieties to be identical. — F. Herbert
Chapman, Rotherside Gardens, Rye.

October 25, 1913]

THE GARDEN.

535

Rose Mrs. James Lynas. — The illustration on
page 516, October ii issue, of this new Rose
portrays the variety to perfection. I have three
plants of it and all have given me numerous flowers ;
in fact, it is the best new Rose of the year with me.
Every bloom, no matter how small, has been of
perfect shape. The petals are especially massive
without being coarse or ill-shapen, which gives
the blooms such a handsome appearance. I
expect to see this Rose universally grown before
long. — E. M.

Lilac Flowering in October.— It would be
interesting to know if any of your readers have
seen a Lilac in blossom in October. The enclosed
flower is off a good-sized tree of the ordinary kind
growing in a garden here. It is not in a sheltered
position. There are quite a number of blossoms
out and plenty of buds, which, if the frost keeps
ofi and the weather continues mild, will no doubt
open. The flowers smell as sweetly as they do
in the spring. — Ruth B. Cannon, Painswick,
Gloucester shifc.

An Unusual Flower-Bed Arrangement.—
Walking along a neighbouring road the other day,
I happened to notice some flower-beds in front
of a house, the hedge next the road being rather
low. Among them was one bed somewhat unique,
I venture to think, for its colours puzzled me for
the moment until I had a closer look. The plants
then turned out to be a Heliotrope of a deep blue
colour and Diplacus or Mimulus glutinosus. The
blue flowers of the former mingling among the
coppery shade of the latter was most arresting and
pleasing. I have never seen the blending of these
plants in any other garden or park, though it is
well worthy of being copied, I am convinced. —
C. T., Highgate.

Are New Pentstemons Too Large ? — I note
the paragraph on page 494, and do not agree with
Mr. Bernard Crisp. If Mr. Crisp is wedded to such
forms as Newbury Gem (syn. Hartwegii), then
I do not wonder at his dislike of the newer florists'
varieties, for which Mr. Forbes of Hawick has
long been noted. I have grown the new varieties
sent out by Mr. Forbes annually for the last ten
years, and it was but last week I remarked " I have
not seen any increase in the size of the flowers for
several years now. Pentstemons have evidently
reached their limit in size." For the embellish-
ment of the garden in bed, border, or in lines of
one sort, I think the superior forms of newer sorts
have a distinct and increasing future before them.
Take, for example, the variety George Home,
bright scarlet, with a pure white throat, or some
of the more recently improved forms of this raised
by Mr. E. Beckett at Aldenham, and what more
impressive sight of colour could we have in the
garden ? Flowers of this type have reasonably
large bells, which expose the two colours, scarlet
and white, to perfection ; whereas in the case of
P. Newbury Gem and its varieties they are lacking
in colour and decision. — M. E.
The Charm of Michaelmas Daisies. — Those

who grow these flowers only among the ordinary
herbaceous plants can have no conception of
their beauty and individuality when seen growing
together in a mass, each variety given sufficient
space for perfect development, as upon this so much
depends to show each variety off to its fullest
extent. Take the variety the Hon. Edith Gibbs, for
example, which is a seedling from Aster ericoides
elegans crossed with Robert Parker, a form of
Novi-Belgii. This grows 5 feet high, throwing out
side shoots within a foot of the ground. Each of
these shoots right up to the point is smothered

with its pale blue blossoms, making a perfectly-
formed, drooping specimen right to the ground.
When such varieties as these are huddled together
with the ordinary herbaceous plant, no conception is
possible of the natural beauty of the finest of
Michaelmas Daisies. In years gone by, when
we had no other forms but those of Nova&-
Anglise, like pulcbellus, for instance, with its trusses
of flower quite at the top of 6-feet shoots, there
was no harm in crowding such at the back of the
herbaceous border, if it were only to hide their
gaunt-looking stems. Just one more mention
of another sort, St. Egwin. When well grown this
runs up a yard high and is almost as much through,
a full, rounded head of rich rose colour that seems
to require space to show off its richness and beauty
which it undoubtedly possesses. — M. S.

Rose Fortune's Yellow. — I was much interested
in Mr. Harriss' article on that most beautiful
and desirable Rose, Fortune's Yellow, as grown at
Lockinge, and am reminded of a very interesting
discussion on the same subject which appeared
in the pages of The Garden a few years ago.
My knowledge of this Rose extends now for nearly
two decades, and I am at one with Mr. Harriss
in nearly all he says respecting its cultivation,
differing only slightly in detail. A tree here is
restricted to the long span of a hip-spanned green-
house 24 feet by 12 feet, and the pruning and
training is similar to that practised at Lockinge.
Here are the differences in detail : Whereas the trees
at Lockinge are planted inside, the tree referred
to here is planted outside and trained through the
wall, much the same as one would train a Vine,
and I am inclined to think that this is the ideal way
to grow Fortune's Yellow Rose. Permit me to add
weight to this statement. Let us take growth first.
I have referred to the tree here being restricted
to the long span of the hip-spanned structmre. So
exuberant is the growth that it would in one season
cover all the roof space if permitted to do so.
This state of affairs is entirely free from any extra
attention on our part, as feeding and watering
is not practised during the growing season, the
rampant growth being sufficient to hold our hands
in this respect. One more item — we are entirely
immune from mildew, and why we are so appears
very obvious. Next comes colour. Mr. Harriss
gives the blooms at Lockinge as a " beautiful
apricot." Describing the colour here, I will do
it this way : Let your readers refer to the coloured
plate in your special and most excellent Rose
issue, take the two half-expanded blooms of Irish
Fireflame, add a dash of the carmine of Queen
Mary, and the colour of most of the blooms as
produced here is given to a nicety. It may be
of some interest to mention that this particular
tree is some thirty years old, and 2,000 blooms
have been cut from it in one season. It is on its
own roots, and the circumference of the stem
a foot from the groimd-level is iij inches. The
rooting medium may be described as being neither
light nor heavy, and chalk enters into the compo-
sition, but not largely. Feeding commences only
so soon as the flower-buds begin to show, and con-
tinues throughout the flowering period. There
is really nothing better as food than that recom-
mended by Mr. Harriss — liquid manure from the
farmyard. Reverting to the colour of the
blooms of Fortune's Yellow, so intense have these
been, and yellow appearing such a misnomer,
that we feel constrained to refer to the Rose as
Fortune's Rose, or its synonym. Beauty of Glazen-
wood. — J. McCallum, Biirkham Gardens, Alton,
Hants.

OCTOBER IN GARDEN AND
WOODLAND.

O'

CTOBER — the Poet's Month— replete

with charm and beauty — the beauty

of peace and restfulness, the charm

of unexpected surprises, cold nights

succeeded by warm, balmy days

with bmrsts of hot sunshine, that

make the flowers think that summer may yet

come back again — that fills the bees with work,

that brings the Mushrooms up, and swells the later

Blackberries, that hang so large and plentifully this

year upon the tops of the hedges like bunches of

wild Grapes :

*'. . . there Is a harmony
In autumn, and a lustre in its sky.
Which thro* the summer is not heard or seen.
As if it could not be, as if it had not been I "

Looking across the great weald the Oaks have
hardly changed — only the quivering Birch trees
on the hilltops stand here imd there, flinging
from them golden spray. The ripe Wahiuts,
the orchards full of fruit, all express " Autumn's
ripe maturity." There is a calm on all lifeless
things — the calm of decay, the silence of farewell,

" The moist rich smell of rotting leaves,"
and a wann, grey mist that connects " the landscape
with the quiet of the sky."

In the garden the stillness and silent mystery
of October is only broken by the Chestnuts pattering
to the groimd, the hum of the threshmg-machines
at work close by, and occasional outbursts ot the
robin's song. One day we wake to find the world
completely shrouded in a thick white pall, through
which we can only just descry " the favourite
hcmilet famt and pale." Nature likes to draw
a semi-lucent covering about her handiwork —
without rush or hurry in a beautiful quiet routine
she fvilfils her will.

Birth, the rapturous awakening of love, death, and
the strange movement of spring in' every twig and
hedgerow flower, the return of the swallows, the
cuckoo's note upon its rightful day, the fields that
are suddenly filled with the bleatings of lambs ; at
a certain date the Spanish Irises are all ui bloom,
the Cowslips awaken in the field, rich blossomings
quite suddenly fill our Rose gardens and summer
beds, the song of the watched-for nightingale
at the self-same dale ; we know that Nature will
tell the wild white Cherry to loosen its mass ot
trembling flowers — such mysteries are not for us.

As the mist rolls gradually away and the low
sunshine throws long shadows across the lawns,
and on " the silvery dews that drench the Furze,"
we hear

" The autumn leaves like light footfalls of spirits passing,"
and we feel a presence has passed tmseen, unheard,
along the garden path. The Vine has changed to a
lovely primrose yellow, the monstrous Pseony Dahlias
droop their heads, and the Heliotrope says good-bye.
So sweet, so calm, should death be to all — not
death, but a passing, through strange mysteries,
to another life. The flowers are not dead — but after
the " slumber of the year " will awaken to fresh
life with the first touch of sprmg. M. C. S.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

October 28. — Southampton Autumn Show (two
days).

October 29. — Kent County Chrysanthemum
Show (two days). Borough of Croydon Show
(two days).

October 30. — Torquay Flower Show. Maiden-
head Chrysanthemum and Fruit Show.

536

THE GARDEN.

[October 25, 1913.

THE CAMPANULAS
BELLFLOWERS.

OR

{Continued from page 524.)
C. Saxifraga. -^ C. tridentata Saxifraga of
gardens, and mentioned under C. tridentata.

C. Scheuchzeri. — Practically a form of C. rotundi-
folia wlien in gardens, but with woolly leaves and
blue flowers in June and July ; white in the variety
alba. Any soil.

C. Scouleri. — A North-West American species,
a foot high, and with panicles of pale blue flowers
in late summer. Level rockwork. Not, I think,
in commerce.

C. speciosa. — A bieimial limestone plant, a foot
high, with a spike of large, bell-shaped flowers
of pale purple. Ordinary soil. Seeds. June or July.
C. StansDeldi. — A gem among the hybrids.
From a close tuft of yellowish leaves rise big
lilac blue and half-pendulous blooms in July.
An easy plant for the moraine, wall, or flat
terrace in the rock garden. Spreads well.
Division.

C. stenocodon. — Scarce and rather difficult.
After the style of C. pusilla, but with narrow,
deep -blue bells. Should be tried in the
moraine, but not yet fully tested. July.

C. Steveni. — Becoming very popular on
account of its dwarf variety nana, this Bell-
flower has a future before it. It has narrow,
glossy leaves in a carpet, and nodding blue
bells in June and July. Alba is white, and
nana is a lovely 6-inch-high blue variety.
Division or seeds. Avoid wet at the neck
of the plants in winter.

C. thyrsoidea. — An old, yellow-flowered

biennial, loving a dry place in sun. Rather

, coarse in its way, with its big head of flowers.

Sow in June and grow on. Flowers in June

and July.

C. tommasiniana. — A scarce little bushy
plant adorned in July with narrow bells of
light purple or blue. Slugs are troublesome.
Moraine or gritty soil in the rock garden.
Seeds or division.

C. trichopoda. — A dwarf species with pale
blue flowers and about six inches or nine inches
high. Moraineordry parts of the rockery. Divi
sion or seeds, but rare and expensive. June.

C. tridentata. — This is a gem with a charm-
ing tufted growth and large flowers of violet
blue or purple. It is closely akin to C. Saxi-
fraga, if not the same.. Moraine or ordinary
rock garden light soil with grit. Seeds or
division. June.

C. triflora. — Hardly, if at all, distinguishable
from C. portenschlagiana, this requires the
same treatment. Increased by division and seed
where obtainable.

C. turbinata. — Referred to under C. carpatica.

C. tyrolensis or tirolensis. — This comes near
tci C. (.espitiisa, and needs the same treatment.

C. uniflora. — A scarce and dif&cult plant, like
C. excisa in its aspect and best in the moraine.
Division. June and July until August.

C. valdensis. — There are two forms of C. valdensis
in cultivation, one with downy leaves and blue bells
after the type of C. rotundifolia, but narrow ; the
other with the flowers constricted like a soda-
water' bottle, lighter blue than those of the above,
and the plant of dwarfer habit, between C. rotundi-
folia and C. caispitosa. Crevices of the stones
or the moraine. Division or seeds. July.

C. velutina. — See C. lanata.

C. waldsteiniana. — A gem for the moraine or
rock garden in gritty soil. Only a few inches
high, with dainty, starry flowers of pale blue in
June. Crevices or level parts of rockwork or the
moraine. Seeds or division. Sim.

C. Zoysii. — But for slugs this would be a favourite
everywhere. It is of elegant, rather trailing growth,
and in June produces charmingly-shaped, light
blue flowers above tufted foUage. Gritty soil or
the moraine. S. Aknott.

{To be continued.)

THE GREENHOUSE.

THE PERSIAN CYCLAMEN AS A
BIENNIAL.

After numerous experiments during the last

twenty-five years, I have proved, to my ovm

C.\MPANULA THYRSOIDEA, AN OLD BIENNIA
SPECIES THAT IS NOT WELL KNOWN.

satisfaction at all events, that by far the best results
with this grand plant are to be had by treating
it as a biennial. I am aware that numbers of
good gardeners disagree with this, holding that it i?
impossible to have really fine plants by this method.
I am satisfied in my own mind, however, that with
proper treatment quite large plants can be had
in beautiful bloom fifteen or sixteen months after
the seeds are sown. These easily beat the best
old plants for size and substance of flower, while
they also bloom for a longer period. Being very
successful with this almost indispensable winter and
spring flowering plant, perhaps a few notes on how I
manage to obtain these satisfactory results may be of
interest to others who admire the Persian Cyclamen.
Sowing the Seed. — In most cases seeds are sown
at too lati- .1 date. Niunbers of seed catalogues

say that from October to March is the proper
time. This may be well enough where a house
can be devoted entirely to this plant, but for
ordinary mixed culture it is much too late. I
have always had the best results by sowing from
August 9 to 15.

How to Sow. — Select fairly deep and perfectly
clean' seed-pans, those about nine inches in diameter
being very handy. Crock with great care, and place
some of the rough riddlings from the soil over
the drainage. The soil should be a nice light,
but fairly substantial mixture of three parts
fibrous loam, one part flaky peat, one and a-half
parts sweet leaf-mould, and one part rather coarse,
sharp sand. The addition of about half a part
of crushed charcoal is a great help, as it keeps
the compost sweet. Pass all through a half-inch
riddle and mix thoroughly. Fill the pans to within
about an inch of the tops, and make moderately
firm and quite level. Scatter the seeds very
thinly and evenly, and press down gently with
a fflat piece of board. Sieve a little of the .
soil and cover to a depth of about an eighth
of an inch. 'Water carefully either by plunging
in a bucket of tepid water or by using a very
fine rose on the watering-can. Cover each pan
with a sheet of sl'^iss, and the glass with thick
brown paper or damp moss. Place in an
intermediate temperature, and in about three
weeks' time the first of the seedlings will be
peeping through.

Winter Treatment. — As soon as growth
appears, remove the paper, but shade carefully
from all sunshine. After all the seeds have
germinated, gradually remove the glass and
get the pans set up on a shelf quite close to
the roof glass. Here they should be kept all
the winter, attending to them very carefully
with water, but also taking care not to sour
the soil by too frequent applications.

Pricking Off. — It is a mistake to attempt
this too soon. Experience has shown me that
February is early enough, and by then each
little plant should have four leaves. Two-inch
pots should be used, and these should be
crocked with three or four small pieces of
charcoal. A mixture similar to that advised
for seed-sowing is suitable. Pot lightly and
leave half of the little bulb above the surface,
water, and return to the same temperature,
shading carefully. Sprinkle gently overhead
twice daily from the time of pricking off
until September.

Spring Treatment. — As growth starts in

earnest. remo\'e to a slightly lower tempera-
ture, and when the little pots are fairly well
filled with roots (they must not be pot-
bound), shift into larger pots. The very
strongest may be allowed the 4-inch size,
the others 3-inch or 3i-inch, according to
strength. Use much the same compost, only
a little more peat may be given, also a 5-inch
potful of bone-meal and the same of Ichthemic
Guano to the barrow-load of soil. Again pot
lightly.

Subsequent Treatment. — As the weather im-
proves, admit air in increased volume and pay
great attention to watering. Shade from all
sunshine is imperative, as is the sprinkling over-
head. Some good growers advise removing the
plants to a cold frame during the sunmier ; but,
personally, I prefer a greenhouse stage. Tomatoes
on the roof, not too thickly planted, afford the
proper shade, and under these conditions the plants
are always under the eye and thrive beautifully.

October 25, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

537

The Final Potting.— For the strongest plants
provide perfectly clean 6-inch pots. For the
medium specimens the 5j-inch size, and for the
weaker ones 5-inch pots are best. The soil should
consist of three parts best fibrous loam, two parts
best fibrous brown peat, one and a-half parts of
sweet, flaky leaf-mould, and sufftcicnt coarse sand
to keep all sweet. Crushed charcoal may with
advantage be added, while a 6-inch potful of bone-
meal and a 5-inch potfvil of Thomson's Plant
Manure or Ichthemic Guano must be allowed
to each barrow-load of the other ingredients.
Use in a fairly rough state, as the idea is to provide
a nice " springy " compost. Crock the pots
with extra care and again pot lightly, keeping the
bulbs half their depth out of the soil. Water
carefully and keep rather close for a few days.
As soon as the pots are well filled with roots, feed
about twice a week with weak liquid manure and
soot-water. A tablespoonful of Ichthemic Guano
in a gallon of water is one of the best
stimulants it is possible to have for
the Cyclamen. Vaporise with XL All
Insecticide occasionally to keep down
green fly and thrip, and in due course
a fine display will be the reward for
any little trouble incurred. Grow a
first-rate strain like Sutton's Giant or
Sutton's Prize. C. Blair.

Preston Gardens, Linlithgow.

of the Cottage Maid type of colouring, but not
so dumpy in habit or of such a pronounced pink.
I like its pale shade very much indeed, and I rather
think that in my pink and white trials this year
it will be very near the top when the class list is
made out next spring.

Tulip Trials at Wisley. — Before these notes
are in print the Tulip-lovers of Britain and Holland
will have been, I hope, gratified by seeing the
annoimcement in the gardening papers that the
Royal Horticultural Society are going to tackle
the question of nomenclature. I trust that some-
thing will now be done to settle the question of
ST.Tionyms, and that, when once these are
sorted out and classified under the different
varieties to which they belong, amateurs and
dealers will accept the result as an ex cathedra
pronouncement, promulgated indeed by the Royal
Horticultural Society, but virtually threshed out
and settled (if it is as it is intended) by a

A. Dickson and Sons), and to all others, as they
say, whom it may concern, to weigh carefully the
propriety or otherwise of giving new fancy names
to the broken Darwins or to the broken anything
else. Let me put the case in a concrete form.
A, B, C and D each has a bed of Mr. Famcombe
Sanders. In each one a certain number " break " —
that is, take on their final (?) striped appearance.
As things are at present among these garden flowers,
there is nothing to prevent A calling his " break "
Mary, B calling his Jane, C calling his Betsy, and
D calling his Anne. If these A, B, C and D were
all traders and went in for increasing their stock
until they could offer it to the public, it is quite
possible to have the very same thing on the market
under all these different names. Not so with the
show Tulip. Once a Sir Joseph Paxton, always and
for ever a " Paxton." The breeder form may be
grown in fifty beds, and in fifty beds it may break,
but no real Tulip man ever thinks of it as anything

FLOWER GARDEN.

TULIP NOTES.
Some Early Varieties for Pots.—

,A prnd Irnni the liditor h.is made me
once more put pen to paper to fulfil,
before it is too late, my promise of a
few " tips " for the great Tulip-time of
1914. For those who like to have a
few " choiceities " and " out-of-the-
wayities," let me suggest the purchase
of Enchantress, a sort of pale ruby red
with a blush edge ; and Hector, a mas-
sive orange and yellow bloom with a
strange dullness all over it, which at
one time attracts and at another makes
one wonder if one does like it or not.
Then there is Jenny — among Tulips
what Mother n' Pearl is anrong
Sweet Peas— the sweetest, brightest,
cheeriest little mortal that anyone
could wish for as a companion, so chic
in shape and of such a taking shade
of cherry red in colour. De Wet 1
remember seeing at the Jubilee Exhibition at
Haarlem as a new thing. Ever since 1 have been
wondering when it would be obtainable. I believe it
can be procured now, for I know it is in the whole-
sale list of M. van Waveren and Sons of Hillegom,
and if so, then the probability is that some retail
firms are cataloguing it but I am unable to say
who they are. I have an idea that it is a sport
from Prince of Austria, as it resembles that variety
in everything but colour, which under glass is a
real orange stade. In the open the colour breaks
into its constituents and it is a mass of red suffused
with yellow, which is wonderfully effective for
room decoration, for, although I have not as yet
grown it myself, I saw what an admirable cut
flower it made at the " Woman's Work " Exhi-
bition this year at Amsterdam, where on the day
I visited the show it was used to decorate one
of the furniture exhibits. Rose Tendre is a flower

CAMPANULA STANSFIELDI, A BEAUTIFUL HYBRID WITH LILAC BLUE FLOWERS.

congregation of the combined wisdom of the Nether-
lands and the British Isles. After then, should
any firm, small or great, or any private person,
known or unknown, lay down a false scent, " let
them or him be anathema." It is atrocious to
go and renamS any variety for no reason except,
presumably, that of selling both it and its pur-
chaser. I have been told that once upon a time
Bishop Magee of Peterborough had some sauce
spilt on his episcopal coat at a dinner-party. He
looked up and down the table with a bland but
imploring look, and said : " Will some layman
make an appropriate remark ? " How often have
I — how often have those who read these lines —
planted some newly-found treasure, only at flower-
ing-time to wish that that layman was at our side ?
One thing I would like to see done, and I appeal
to my friends Mr. Krelage, Mr. Leak (of Messrs.
R, H. Bath), Mr. Hugh Dickson (of Messrs.

but Sir Joseph Paxton ; he simply calls it " Sir
Joseph Paxton flamed " or " Sir Joseph Paxton
feathered," or he could equally correctly say " Sir
Joseph Paxton broken." The old Tulip men
went through all the bitter and provoking time
of a haphazard and lawless nomenclature sixty and
more years ago, and the principle now universally
adopted among the show growers of to-day is
one born of a long-drawn-out experience as being
at once truthful, simple and speaking. I sincerely
hope this question of naming " breaks " will
occupy the attention of those who are called upon
to form the nomenclature committee, and that
the very much threatened tangle of names of the
beautiful striped varieties will not be allowed to
maiure. Joseph Jacob.

[We should be pleased to hear the views of
Messrs. Krelage, Leak and Hugh Dickson on the
nammg of Tuiip breaks. — Ed]

538

THE GARDEN.

[October 25, 1913.

A LITTLE-KNOWN TORCH LILY.

(Kniphofia Tysonii.)

This handsome South African plant does not seem
to differ in any way from Kniphofia caulescens,
except that it flowers at a different time, the latter
flowering during Jime, whereas the subject of
this note flowers during August and September.
Apart from its flowers, which are orange red,
fading to pale yellow, its handsome, glaucous
blue foliage would merit it a place in the garden,
and, as the illustration shows, it is a handsome
subject for a lawn bed. A large group of it, suit-
ably placed, is very effertive in a large rock garden,
and on a sloping bank it is likely to get the right
conditions to come through the winter safely,
while damp and stagnant moisture often prove
fatal during winter.

Although K. Tysonii likes dry conditions
during winter, care must be taken that it
does not suffer from drought during the summer,
as, in common with other members of this

lavender, with rose flakes ; Blondin, pale blue ;
Cassandra, pale lavender blue ; Lilacina, pale
blue, shaded lilac ; Mme. de Beauhamais, rich
dark blue ; Mont Blanc, pure white ; Surprise
and Zulu, rich purplish red ; and Miss Barclay,
white, with violet markings.

Westwick Gardens, Norwich. E. G. Davison.

HYBRID LILIES.

Owing to the prominent position of their floral
organs, it might be thought that hybrid Lilies would
be plentiful. Such, however, is not the case, for
there seems a strange fatality about some of the
best-marked kinds ; for instance, that gorgeous
hybrid raised on the other side of the Atlantic
between Lilium auratum and L. speciosum, and
known as L. Parkmannii, has quite disappeared.
It was given a first-class certificate by our Royal
Horticultural Society in 1880, and was shown
occasionally for some years afterwards, but it
is now no longer to be found. Its first appearance

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATE 1479.

A NEW CULINARY APPLE.

IT is not often that a new culinary Apple
shown before the fruit and vegetable com-
mittee of I he Royal Horticultural Society
possesses sufficiently good features to secure
an award of merit ; hence it is worth placing
on lecord any that do gain this coveted
distinction. The variety of which a coloured plate
is given with this issue is named Padnall Seedling,
and was raised by Mr. Roberts of Padnall Hall
Chadwell Heath, Essex. When shown by him
last year at the Royal Horticultural Society's
meeting at the end of August, it received an award
of merit, a deputation from the society having
previously visited the trees and reported upon
them to the committee. Subsequently we visited
Mr. Roberts, who kindly showed us the original
tree and also a number of young ones that had been
recently grafted. The habit of the
tree is robust, and the foliage very large
and tough, reminding one greatly in
that respect of Peasgood's Nonsuch,
but the fruits themselves more re-
semble Warner's King. They are large
and crisp, of good flavour, and in sea-
son from early July until mid- Septem-
ber. We regard this as a good and
useful addition to the early culinary
Apples, and as the young trees, when
grafted on Paradise stock, fruit well
in their early stages, it should prove
a useful variety for planting in private
gardens where space is limited.

TREES & SHRUBS.

hLOV

A MO

A

A HANDSOME TORCH LILY OR RED-HOT POKER : KNIPHOFLA TYSONII.

genus, it enjoys copious supplies of water at
the root during the growing and flowering season.
As with most Kniphofias, this plant is not
likely to prove over - hardy in cold districts,
but a little dry litter placed round the plants should
bring them safely through most winters. J. C.

ENGLISH IRISES.

This section of a large family is a most useful one,
providing us with flowers in July, and by planting
good bulbs a fine display of flowers can be relied
upon. They succeed in any good soil, and are
quite hardy. The flowers are large, and the colours
rich and striking. The bulbs should be planted
in autumn. September is a good time, although
planting may be deferred till December. They
may be planted in clumps in the herbaceous
borders, or a border may be whoUy planted with
them. There are many fine varieties to choose
from. The following are good forms : Anton,

in this country created quite a furore. That pretty
and interesting cross raised at Kew some dozen
years or so ago between L. Henryi and L. Brownii
Chloraster, and known as L. kewense, seems to
have shared the same fate. Crosses between the
Chinese L. Hansonii and cUfferent Martagons
have good constitutions, and are likely to prove
reliable garden Lilies.

There are several hybrids between the upright -
flowered Lilies, such as L. croceum, L. davuri-
cum and L. elegans, and also among the
North American species of the Martagon section.
These American-raised forms were distributed
as L. Burbankii, but they are a mixed race.
One Lily, which, by the way, is only a
supposed hybrid, is the grandest of all. This is
the Nankeen Lily (L. testaceum), which is one
of the finest outdoor Lilies we have. It is an
assumed hybrid between L. candidum and L.
chalcedonicum, but its origin seems to be
unknown.

SOME GOOD AUTUMN-
FLOWERING SHRUBS.

MONG the numerous shrubby
species of Veronica, that
known as V. speciosa has
appealed most widely to
the horticulturist, and in
his hands numerous varie-
ties have appeared which exhibit an
extensive range of colour and in many
instances bear larger inflorescences
than the type. Being a native of New
Zealand, it is not very hardy in the
British Isles, but gives excellent results
in the South and West maritime counties and in Ire-
land. In those counties it is foimd as a large bush,
2 feet to 4 feet high and sometimes 6 feet in dia-
meter, at all times a good evergreen, and during
autumn and winter an excellent flowering shrub.
The kind and quahty of the soil is not of wtal im-
portance ; providing climatic conditions are suitable,
there are tew places where it will not thrive. In more
northerly counties the various forms are often
grown as pot plants for conservatory decoration,
and large specimens are cultivated in tubs for
terraces and corridors. About London and in the
neighbourhood of other cities and towns they are
grown in large quantities by nurserymen and sold
for planting ui window-boxes or for flowering in
dwelling-rooms, and they are familiar objects on the
stalls and carts of itinerant plant and flower vendors.
I>ropagation is easily effected by means of cuttings
of young shoots inserted in sandy soil in a close
frame durmg spring or summer. The yoimg
plants, if placed in a nursery border and stopped

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October 25, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

539

once or twice, develop into shapely little bushes
by the end of the first year and usually produce
a fair number of inflorescences, but it is not until
they are three or four years old that they really
do themselves full justice. It usually happens,
if attention is paid tn pruning during early life,
that little is required afterwards, that little being
the removal of the old flower-heads as soon as the
flowers are over, so that the production of seeds
is prevented. Should the old flowers be left, the
seed-vessels are somewhat unsightly as they die
off. In some parts of Devonshire and Cornwall
small plants are inserted in the stone and soU

THE ROSE GARDEN.

I

IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.

Some of the Newer Roses.
{Continued from page 526.)
MUST now pass on to deal with individual
Roses, and, taking the exhibition varieties
first of all, one comes to the Hybrid Per-
petuals. They have had one, and only
one, addition to their ranks this year, and
that is

Coronation (Hugh Dickson, 1913), a huge flower
walls which are so popular in those counties. I that reminds one of the old Her Majesty, but
The plants appear to enjoy
the position and grow into fine
specimens, which bloom profusely.
Whether used in that way or in the
shrubbery, they are equally desir-
able, while some people use them
very effectively for informal hedges.
The type is well known by reason
of its bluish or purplish flowers,
which appear in dense racemes
2 inches to 3 inches long. Of the
varieties the following are all very
beautiful, and well worth attention
either for outdoor or pot culture.
Blue Gem, a vigorous shrub of
dense, compact habit, with large
and conspicuous leaves. The blue
flowers are at their best during
autumn, though a few continue to
open during winter. Autumn Glory
is another blue-flowered kind. Of
fairly compact growth, it is dwarfer
than many varieties, and can be
used where a large-growing bush
would be out of place. Gatintletti.
— This is an exceptionally fine
variety, producing spikes, 5 inches
or 6 inches long, of pretty pinkish
flowers. The foliage is large and
richly coloured. Mmc. Chretien. —
In this variety the flower-spikes are
4 inches to 5 inches long, and are
made up of rich purple flowers. La
Seduisante is also a vigorous kind ;
its flowers are reddish purple. Manx
Queen is one of the best of the red-
flowered kinds, while another one,
which was distributed by Mr.
Gauntlett a few years ago tmdet
the name of Redruth, also bears
rich red blossoms. Then there
are other varieties, such as Vulcan
(dark reddish purple), Snowflake
(white). Purple Queen (a dwarf,
purple-flowered kind), Mme. Santin
(blush), Monte Rose (rose), and Le Merveilleux (rosy
purple), which are all very pretty.

CLEMATIS MONTANA AND SOLANUM CRISPUM
ON A GARDEN PILLAR.

CLIMBING PLANTS ON A GARDEN
PILLAR.

It often happens that the most pleasing instances
of colour associations are the result of accidental
planting, and such is the case depicted in the above
illustration, taken in Colonel H. Moore's garden
at Higher Woodcombe, Minehead, Somerset.
Colonel Moore sends the following note : " The
garden pillar was formerly clothed with Clematis
montana. Solanum crispmn has uivaded it from
the adjoining wall, and as the pale lilac and
white flowers make a pretty contrast, I have allowed
them to fight it out together."

slightly L.righter in its shade of pink. It promises
to give us one of the largest of exhibition flowers.
It is very vigorous in growth, tall and erect, and
I remember noticing that the wood was much
smoother than the old Hybrid Perpetual, and very
free-flowering for one of this class, when I saw
several rows of it at Belmont. It was staged more
than once before it obtained the gold medal at
Belfast, the National Rose Society's Provincial
Show of 1912, and where, I suppose, the keenest
competition I ever remember in the class of new
seedlings was seen, for many Roses staged in
magnificent form at this show were passed over,
only to receive the gold medal later, notably,
British Queen, Colleen and Mrs. James Lynas,
to mention only three that occur to me.

Coronation is reminiscent of Frau Karl Druschki in
its method of growth, but is much more globular
in shape, after the style of Mrs. Comwallis-West
in its flowers. Its size will be bound to make it
popular with exhibitors. It is the first Hybrid
Perpetual to receive the gold medal since Hugh
Dickson was awarded it at the Glasgow Show in
r903, ten years ago. I well remember the sensation
it caused, but it seems longer ago than ten years
somehow. I wonder whether we shall have to
wait another ten years for the next Hybrid Per-
petual. I rather expect before then that Hybrid
Perpetuals, Hybrid Teas and such-like distinctions
will be things of the past. Having mentioned Her
Majesty in connection with Corona-
tion— the two names are more or
less inseparable — I ought to add
that Coronation is not so subject to
mildew as Her Majesty, if at all.

George Arends (Hinner, 1910) is
one of the so-called pink Druschkis.
It is scented, but that is the most
one can say for it, and I am dis-
carding it this year, as it is not
much good for exhibition and we
can do without in the garden.

Geoffrey Henslow (Tumet,
1912), a dark-coloured crimson that
will be confoimded, I am afraid,
with the Rose ot the same name,
a Hybrid Tea. Of the .wo I prefer
the latter, as it is undoubtedly a
better colour and does not " blue "
so badlv.

Gloire de Cbedane Guinoisseau
(Guinoisseau, 1907). — I think this
Rose has enhanced its reputation.
It has been in nearly every winning
twenty-four, and has undoubtedly
come to stay. Every exhibitor
should have it. It is hardly a new
Rose, but being raised on the Con-
tinent is a severe handicap, and it
has taken some time for its merits
to be recognised. It is a full flower,
well and perfectly formed, of a
bright shade of crimson, a good
grower, and of the easiest culture.
The buds are produced in a cluster
of four or five as a rule, and must
be disbudded accordingly.

I can think of no more Hybrid
Perpetuals that can be called ex-
hibition varieties, and so we come
to the Hybrid Teas, the class that
seems to rake in all varieties, where
we find Roses so tmlike in character
as Irish Fireflame, Mrs. Andrew
Carnegie, Queen Mary, Old Gold and
Moonlight all labelled Hybrid Teas. Something will
have to be done, and that soon, to remedy this state
of confusion. Naturally, everyone is looking to the
National Rose Society to suggest a remedy and apply
it. Here is a great chance for fame for someone to
go down to posterity as the man who revised our
Rose classification.

HYBRID TEAS.
Alice Lemon (Hill and Co., rgii). — This stands
much where it did, and although I have seen a
few flowers of it, it evidently has not got into
general cultivation. It is a vigorous grower ;
colour, flesh, deeper salmon centre ; flowers of
good pointed shape ; not subject to mildew.

Britisll Queen (S. McGredy and Son, roij). —
I have grown this Rose for two years now, so can

GROWING TOGETHER

540

THE GARDEN.

[October 25, 1913.

speak more definitely of it. At its best it is the
most beautiful white Rose that we have, and a
well-grown flower will always tell in the exhibition
box. At the same time there is more Tea blood
in its veins, and it is a long distance away from a
scented Frau Karl Druschki. The petals are
shorter than that Rose, but it keeps its beautiful
shape for a long time and has a great number ol
petals, though some of them are small. In a word,
it is quite distinct, fragrant, very free-flowering
and very beautiful. It has a fault — what Rose
has not ? — and that is in its method of growth.
The laterals or side shoots are produced hori-
zontally to the ground, and consequently the
flowers are not held upright, somewhat after the
style of Mrs. Herbert Stevens ; in fact, I have
little doubt the two are close relatives. For a
Rose that was expensive last year it has been
frequently shown, both in twelves and in
trebles, especially by the trade. A very good
basket of it was shown by the raiser at the autumn
show of the National Rose Society, and it actually
had the audacity to beat George Dickson in the
same class. One would not expect it to do that
often. It is a fine garden Rose, very free-flowering,
and I can strongly recommend it. It makes a
very charming button-hole.

Southampton. Herbert E. Molyneu.x.

ROSES IN CHURCHYARDS.

The surface of the churchyard is the freehold of the
incumbent, whether rector or vicar, so the grass
belongs to him ; he can make hay of it if he chooses
to do so. In days happily gone by, sheep grazed in
the churchyard to keep down the grass, and even now
in some few cases the state of the churchyard is
deplorable ; long, rank grass, clumps of nettles and

AN OLD BUSH OF ROSE GLOIRE

DE DIJON, WITH
CHURCHYARD,

IRISH YEWS, IN SOUTH WEALD

bowed tombstones. But for the most part times have
changed, opinions have changed, and with them a
change has come over the churchyard. Let us
see the reason. God's Acre should not only be
kept trim and neat because it is the threshold
of God's House, but more so because it is, the resting-

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ANOTHER VETERAN ROSE BUSH AT SOUTH WEALD. THE DIAMETER OF THIS IS
ABOUT 8 FEET, AND THE BUSH HAS BEEN PLANTED OVER THIRTY YEARS.

place of the bodies of tliose " called to be saints
and of the household of God " ; the bodies of our
dear departed ones. And because there has been,
and still is, a growing appreciation of that Article
of the Catholic Faith, " I believe in the Communion
of Saints," the memory of the Blessed Dead extends
from the altar to the churchyard. The grass is
kept close cut like a lawn, and flowers are planted
in every available space, especially Roses.

There are several churchyards in the neighbour-
hood of the writer wherein Roses grow and flourish,
one of these being the beautiful churchyard of
St. Peter's, South Weald, The red-tiled roof of
the handsome lych-gate is covered from top to
bottom with Crimson Rambler ; the paved way
leading to the main entrance to the church, a
noted Norman arch and doorway, is flanked on
either side by standard Rose trees, of which some
have from time to time been replaced ; but the
majority, together with the rambler over the gate,
are at least twenty-eight years old. Pillar Roses
and standards are dotted here and there about the
church, as will be seen by the illustrations, and
dwarf bushes shelter themselves by the buttresses
of the church walls. In addition to Roses, bulbs
in spring, Geraniums and others make God's Acre
beautiful.

And it has all come to pass in this wise. When,
in 1895, Mr. Christopher J. H. Tower of Weald
Hall was invited to become the parson's church-
warden, the churchyard was in a more or less
neglected condition. Mr. Tower accepted, pro-
vided that he should be allowed a free hand in
the upkeep of the churchyard, and from that day
to this he has had charge of it. A man is specially
employed four days a week ; the sexton has no
hand in it. The whole of the financial expense is
borne by Mr. Tower with the help of his neighbours.
Surely all who help in this labour of love must
be glad to see how well the plants and flowers
respond to the care bestowed, and the parishioners
proud to know that their o^vn churchyard is
now one of the most beautiful in the county of
Essex. J. H. Pemberton.

October 25, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

541

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

ROOTING CUTTINGS UNDER BELL-GLASSES.

COMPARATIVELY speaking, there are
very few hardy shrubs which cannot
be multiplied by means of cuttings.
It is not surprising, however, con-
sidering the great variety of shrubs
cultivated in our gardens, that
several different methods are necessary. Quite
soft cuttings made of the young shoots of some
shrubs will root during July in a propagating-
frame with plenty of artificial heat. During August
and early September cuttings made of the half-
ripened wood do admirably in a close frame, prefer-
ably with a little bottom-heat. A third and very
easy means of increasing many of our most popular
shrubs is the method illustrated. October is
about the best time to insert cuttings under bell-
glasses, as at this season the shoots made during
the previous summer are fairly hard or ripe, and
will make the best plants.

Position for the Bell-Glasses. — Choose a
sheltered position under a fence or hedge, protected
from the sun during the middle of the day, yet
one where the young plants as soon as rooted obtain
plenty of light. The soil should be well drained,
light and sandy ; if at all heavy, a raised bed oi
soil, kept in position with boards as sho^vn in the
illustration, may be prepared. Place in the bottom
3 inches or rather more of rubble or clinkers for
drainage ; then fill up with 4 inches to 5 inches
ot light, prepared soil consisting of two parts sandy
loam, one part peat, one part leaf-mould and one
part coarse sand. Make the whole firm and level
the surface, spreading over it a thin layer of silver
sand, which will trickle in the holes round the
cuttings as they are inserted. For convenience
of inspection and attention the prepared bed
should not be too wide ; a sufficient width to take
three rows of bell-glasses is ample. The bell-
glasses vary in size from a diameter at the bottom
of 4 inches to a foot. The size of the cuttings
must of necessity vary in length and thickness
according to the nature of the shrub, whether
slender or stout in growth. An average length
will be from 3 inches to 6 inches, inserting about
one-third of this length in the
soil. Whenever possible, the
cuttings should be made with
a fragment of the old wood
attached to the base ; this is
familiarly termed a " heel."
In most cases it is desirable
to cut off I inch or 2 inches
at the top of the shoot, the
growth being tender or soft
and liable to damp off in
winter. With evergreen
shrubs this is not so impor-
tant, the leaves tending to
keep the shoots fresh. Before
dibbling in the cuttings, the
bell-glass should be placed on
the prepared bed and pressed
in the sand to mark the
outside of the patch of cut-
tings. This is plainly shown in
the illustration. The number
of cuttings inserted under a
bell-glass will depend on the

CUTTINGS OF OLEARI.\ H.\A3Tn JUST IN-
SERTED AND READY TO BE COVERED
BY THE BELL-GLASS.

size of the cuttings and the amount of groimd
covered by the bell-glass. Under a bell-glass 4 inches
to 5 inches across it is possible to insert forty to
fifty Erica cuttings, as these are only i inch to
ri inches long. A bell-glass a foot across will
cover fifty cuttings of Tea Roses. It is not neces-
sary to limit each bell-glass to one kind of cutting.
Choose those which are similar in size and which
take about the same time to root. Label each one

carefully, and put the date when inserted on the
label for reference. To prevent the cuttings flagging,
roll them in a wet cloth as soon as they are cut ofj
the parent bush ; this will be found more con-
venient than placing them in water. The cloches
used so much in French gardening will answer
the same purpose as the bell-glasses ; hand-lights
may also be used. As it will be desirable to afford
a little protection to the cuttings during severe
frosts, the bell-glasses should be conveniently
placed so that they may be covered with Bracken
or the old, dry tops of Michaelmas Daisies. The
cuttings should be well watered as soon as inserted
with a fine-rosed watering-pot to settle the sand
round the cuttings. Further watering will probably
not be necessary more than once a month till the
end of Januan,'.

Cuttings of Shrubs to Insert Now.— Olearia
Haastii (the Daisy Bush), shown in the first illus-
tration— this is one of the best flowering shrubs
for the small town and suburban garden ; Berberis
stenophylla (the Hybrid Barberry) ; B. Darwinii,
a Chilian species with orange-coloured flowers ;
Laurustinus or Viburnum Tinus, Veronica Traversii,
the double Furze or Gorse, the Rosemary- (Rosma-
rinus officinalis). Lavender, Cotton Lavender (Santo-
lina Chamaecyparissus), hardy Heaths, the several
varieties of Cypress, Lawson's Cypress, Yews, Tea
Roses, Brooms, Box and Escallonias.

CUTTINGS OF VARIOUS SHRUBS IN SPECIALLY-PREPARED SOIL

UNDER BELL-GLASSES.

HUNTS ON WINTERING GREEN-
HOUSE BULBS.

The greenhouse bulbs that I am now particularly
referring to are Achimenes, tuberous Begonias
and Gloxinias. In many instances the bulbs
and tubers are left in the pots and pans in odd
places on the stages or shelves until the latter part
of the year before any attempt is made to store
them. Curiously enough, the haphazard way of
treating them up to this point has been quite
satisfactory, as they have been so gradually rested.
.Afterwards, however, owing to mistakes in storing,
the tubers and bulbs have rotted.

It is wrong to place the bulbs under stages
close to the hot-water pipes.
They may be stored under
staging if kept 2 feet away
from the pipes, and also if a
board is placed between them
and the pipes ; furthermore,
if drip can be avoided. A
comer position on the stage
itself is a very good one in
which to winter the plants,
bulbs and tubers. Very few
will be lost. Owing to lack
of space the tubers are often
taken out of the soil and
stored close together in boxes.
This plan answers if shallow-
boxes and sand in which to
store the tubers are used.
Achimenes should be left in
their own soil imtil next
February, when it will be
advisable to take them out
AND PLACED ^"'1 ""epot or repan them

again. Shamrock.

542

THE GARDEN.

[October 25, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Flower-Beds. — By this date all flower-beds
should be filled with their occupants for making
a spring show, and all surplus and small bulbs may
be planted either in the borders or in the wild
garden, as may be deemed desirable.

Chrysanthemums. — Many of the old border
Pompon varieties are much more hardy than the
newer types, and may be left out in the ground all
the winter, at least in most situations, but the
latter, to make quite sure of them, should be lifted
and placed in a frame to ensure good stock in the
spring. No heat is necessary, but just sufficient
covering to keep them moderately dry, when
■ they are less liable to injury by frost. Needless
to add, they should not be lifted till the flowering
period is over, and even then they ought not to be
cut down too low for a time, or the stock is much
weakened by bleeding.

Fuchsias. — The different varieties of hardy
Fuchsias should be protected by giving them a
covering of very light soil, leaf-mould or ashes over
the crowns of the plants.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Acer californica aurea. — This is one of the
most effective golden foliage plants in a bed that
I know. Though not such a robust-growing plant
as the Silver Acer, it is much more effective, especi-
ally where there are many dark green trees. If cut
back fairly hard in the spring, it retains its colour
(golden yellow) till quite late in the season.

Tamarix hispida aestivalis makes a fine bed,
and when established throws up grand spikes or
stems of flower, which remind one somewhat of
Pampas Grass, except that the colour is a delicate
mauve. To get the best results this plant also wants
cutting hard back early in the spring, when it will
flower well during July, August and September.

Berberis Darwinii and B. stenophylla are two
plants which are hard to beat for a spring effect.
Single plants in the borders are very fine, but large
beds that may be seen from a distance are even
better. The latter variety, with its long, arching
racemes of bloom, is probably the best of the two.

Viburnum plicatum and V. Opulus are two
very useful flowering shrubs, and can hardly be
placed in a wrong position. The latter needs careful
pruning (after blooming) to keep it in bounds,
and both of them add a certain amount of colbur
to the shrubberies during the autumn when the
leaves are turning colour.

Plants Under Glass.
Begonia Gloire de Lorraine and its various

types that are well advanced in bloom should be
placed in a somewhat drier house with a temperature
of 50° to 55° at night. Keep them moving by
giving weak liquid manure, and they will keep in
good condition for months. Give more space to
the later plants as they require it, and practically
the whole of them may be allowed to flower now.
They should be in real good form before Christmas.

Bouvardias developing their flower-buds must
be given a nice, even temperature of about fifty-
five to sixty degrees, with just a suspicion of
moisture in the atmosphere. Under such treatment
young plants should go on blooming throughout
the winter, and provide plenty of flowers for the
table and button-holes. This is a plant that has
had to give way in many places to the winter-
blooming Carnation, but even now it is well worth
looking after.

The Kitchen Garden.

Celery. — Even the latest rows of Celery should
be finished earthing by now, or the frost will injure
the leaves. Make the banks very steep where the
soil is heavy, so as to throw off the water as much
as possible. When digging Celery for the house, be
sure to burn all outside leaves and roots, so as to
counteract as much as possible the depredations
of the mining maggot during the coming season ;
also, the soil should be carefully levelled as digging
proceeds, so as to leave the ground in a tidy
condition.

Artichol^es that have died down may be lifted,
sorting over the tubers and storing those together
that are of serviceable size, reserving the medium-
sized ones for seed, while the small ones may be

given to the pigs. In some localities these are very
late in dying down, and lifting should be delayed
till frost kills the tops.

Fruits Under Glass.
Strawberries for Forcing. — If not already under
cover, the early batches should be placed in frames
at once, preferably with ashes between the pots,
thus preventing them getting cracked by frost.
Plenty of air should be given on all occasions, it
being only necessary to keep the heavy rains from
them. When frames are not available, the plants
may be laid on their sides under a wall, placing
ashes or leaves between the layers of pots to keep
them in position and to prevent cracking of the
pots, as advised for the frames.

Hardy Fruit.

Fruit Trees : Selection of Varieties for Plant-
ing.— Before planting any number of trees in a
district where one has not had much experience,
it is advisable to make enquiries as to the varieties
which do best, and plant these in sufficient quantities
to secure a crop, adding others more or less for
trial purposes. There are, however, some varieties
that are fairly good croppers in nearly all districts,
and in planting Apples for cooking purposes one
cannot, or should not, overlook the merits of Ecklin-
ville. New Hawthomden, Lord Suffield, Warner's
King, Beauty of Kent, Blenheim Orange, Bramley's
Seedling, Lane's Prince Albert, Northern Greening
and Newton Wonder, while the old variety, Tom
Putt, is one of the best croppers with me, and is
not at all a bad-flavoured variety for use just now,
Lane's Prince Albert being perhaps the heaviest
cropper year in and year out.

Dessert Apples are always in demand, and
though in the early part of the season we get some
good-coloured fruits, the quality and flavour in
some of them are not all we desire. James Grieve
is splendid, but it must not be left too long, or it
will be found soft and insipid. Benonii is one of
the best early Apples, and deserves to be very
widely known ; it comes in during September.
King Harry is also good. Rival proves itself to
be of good colour, flavour and keeping quality,
and is not a bad cropper on cordons. Duchess'
Favourite and King of the Pippins are the two most
consistent croppers in this district, while Cox's
Orange, Cox's Pomona, Ribston Pippin. Worcester
Pearmain and Charles Ross can be relied upon to
give a fair sprinkling of fruit each season.
Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Bulb-Planting. — This work should now be
finished without delay, more especially bulbous
Irises, as they often decay if left out of the groimd
after October.

Lifting Chrysanthemum Stools. — Chrysanthe-
mums have flow'ered extra well this autumn. They
are, however, pretty well over now, and stools
for stock should be secured. Cut the plants
down to within 6 inches of the ground, lift with
a digging fork and box them up, working some
light, rich soil in among the roots. Give the boxes
a good watering, and after the water has settled
give the whole a good sprinkling with soot to ward
off the attacks of slugs. Place the boxes in a cool
frame or pit, and give plenty of air on all favour-
able occasions. Our stock here (all of which I
can recommend) consists of the following varieties :
All the members of the Mass6 family, Lady Mary
Hope, Polly, Carrie, Beacon, Dainty, Lily, Mrs.
A. Thomson, J. C. Grieve, Abercom Beauty,
George Wermig, Goacher's Crimson, White St.
Croutts, Little Bob and Rosie.

Herbaceous Plants. — This is probably the
best season of the year either for making new
plantations or for making alterations among
existing stock. In the case of new plantations,
the beds or borders should first be trenched at
least two spades deep, and a good dressing of
manure should be dug in.

The Rock Garden.

Building. — One should always keep in mind
that what is wanted is not a display ot stones.

but a suitable environment for a particular class
of plants. While all appearance of stiffness and
uniformity should be avoided, yet certain guiding
principles must cijnstantly be kept in view.
The first of these is to form pockets (as diverse
in form as possible) that will hold a sufficiency of
soil, and that will catch and hold the moisture
supplied to the plant, whether by natural or
artificial means. There is something radically
wrong with the building of rockwork which requires
sprinklers playing on it most of the summer. The
bigger stones should mostly be placed in the back-
ground, but a few of these should be mixed with
the smaller stones to break the monotony. Embed
the stones so firmly in the ground that one can
stand upon them for purposes of planting, top-
dressing, weeding and admiring.

The Rose Garden.
Mulching. — Most experts now condemn the
old practice of giving Roses a winter mulching vrith
solid manure, as it keeps the roots in a cold, wet
condition. A common practice now is to draw
a little dry earth up to the necks of the plants, so
as to run off the winter rains, and then to give
a dressing of well-rotted manure in spring. My
own practice, which produces excellent results,
is to mulch with half-decayed leaves. The rougher
part of these is removed in spring, when the beds
generally get a dressing of bone-meal, soot and
ground lime previous to their being forked over.

Plants Under Glass.

Late Bulbs. — if any bulbs remain unpolled,
they should be potted up at once and placed in
the plmige. Remove earlier batches from the
plunging material after they have been in it about
six weeks, and place them in a cool frame or pit.

Lily of the Valley. — This is always accept-
able, especially in the dull days of winter. Strong,
retarded crowns give the best results. Pol them
up rather thickly in 5-inch pots, the crovms just
showing above the ground. Keep them in a cool
pit, and bring them into the forcing-house in
batches as required. Plimge the pots in a brisk
bottom-heat, and keep each pot covered with an
inverted pot of the same size till the plants have
made about two inches of growth. Never allow
them to lack for water at the root, and spray with
tepid water twice daily. They should be fit for
use in from twenty to thirty days if treated thus.

Fruits Under Glass.
Late Grapes. — Few things tax the Grape-
grower's skill more than the maintaining of his
late Grapes in really good condition throughout
the dull, damp autumn days. To maintain a dry,
buoyant atmosphere at a comparatively low
temperature is the crux of the matter, and nothing
but close observation and attention will secure
the desired end ; but biuiches laid on the table
with symmetry of bunch and bloom of berry
unimpaired will repav all the trouble.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Planting Fruit Trees. — it is now universally
admitted that, except in the case of a very few
highly-favoured localities, the cultivator's constant
aim should be to keep the roots of his trees near
the surface, where light, air and heat will have a
beneficial influence upon them. It is when the
roots are allowed to penetrate into the cold, wet,
or, it may be, actually poisonous subsoil that
canker and other diseases attack the trees. Most
good cultivators now plant the trees on the original
surface and cover the roots with about six inches
of fresh loam, mulching the surface with half-
decayed farmyard manure immediately after
planting. If shallow pits are dug out for the trees,
they should be made quite flat, and some fresh
loam be worked in among the roots. Tread
the ground firm and mulch as indicated. Stake
and tie standards, and nail wall trees promptly.
A piece of coarse cloth should be placed round
the stem of the tree to prevent the ligature from
damaging the bark through friction.

The Vegetable Garden.

Rhubarb. — Where an early supply of Rhubarb
is wanted, a few crowns should be placed in heat
now .

Manuring. — Advantage should be taken of
dry weather or frosty mornings to wheel manure
on to vacant quarters which are to be dug, and
digging and trenching should be pushed forward,
especially in districts where the winters are usually
severe and long. Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

October 25, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

543

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SOME UNCOMMON VEGETABLES.

Hints on Cooking an'd Serving.

THE consen^atism of the average Briton
in matters of food is notorious, and
my object in writing these few notes
is to stir him up to the fact that there
are certain vegetables of which he
might make more use, and, incidentally,
that there are a good many that might be more satis-
factorily cooked and served than they are. I am
ii.it a vegetarian, but I possess a keen appreciation
I'l the properties of good vegetables, both from
the pohits of view of palate and stomach, and I
am une of those who consider the vegetable course
that one gets in the best hotels and restaurants
a blessed institution.

..\n often overlooked point, too, is that a good
number of \egetables are by no means ill eating
when cold, some of them making an excellent
salad 6er\-ed with cold meat. In this category come
r. .IS, Broad Beans (young). Globe ..\rtichokes and
-ing early Carrots, the last delicious. There
]- 11(1 reason why any of those I have named should
be wasted after having been served at a hot meal.
In a recent conversation with a large hotel-keeper,
he was telling me he could not get his guests to
eat Globe Artichokes, and he was not surprised,
.i-, in his opinion, there was hardly any food in
tlif-m. Now, Globe Artichokes are a specially
Mvi.urite vegetable of mine, and those who grow
them well will know that there is plenty to " bite
at " in them if devoured in a sensible way, and
for flavour they are very hard to beat.

A vegetable that I seldom come across, save
at my ovm table, is the little green-seeded French
Haricot, sold by Sutton and Sons under the name
of Green Gem. These Haricots, when shelled out
while young and cooked with a small Onion, make a
most appetising dish, and everyone who tastes
them here seems to like them. These also should
come luider my little list of things that are good
when cold. Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted Celery, is
seldom seen, but here we find it good both hot and
cold ; the flavour to me is reminiscent of both
Celery and Parsnip, and, as it is so easily cultivated
and does not require the labour and space of ordinary
Celery^ I do not understand why it is not more
g^u^\^l and eaten.
The Cooking and Serving of a number of our

vegetables in this country leave much to be
desired. For instance, when I go into the garden
and cut a dainty, snow white little Cauliflower,
I strongly object to havmg it ser\'ed up with a
smothering dose of sickly and insipid melted butter ;
and I should like to know why the average ccok, as
soon as she (or he) has cooked a few nice young Beet-
roots, at once slices them and plunges them into
vinegar, making a pickle of what ought to be a
dainty dish with a refreshing and appetising flavour
quite its own. I prefer to slice my Beetroot myself,
and eat it without vinegar or any such futile
adjimct ; but, of course, it must be quite fresh,
and is of no use the second day, while the vinegar-
preserved article may be kept going for a week or
more — but in any case, none of it for me.

Then there is the Custard Marrow, most delicately
flavoured of its race ; it should be cut yoimg and
small, and cooked whole with the rind on, the
latter being removed after cooking. I wonder if
anyone has tried it thus, dressed with a little cream.
It is a dish fit for an epicure, and should be tried
as a vegetable course, alone. Harking back to

Beetroot, there is a dish known on the other side
of the Atlantic as " Beets " ; this is simply the
small round or Turnip-rooted variety cooked young,
in quantity, and ser\'ed hot, and in this form it
is by no means to be despised. A pretty good test
of a cook is the way a Cabbage is cooked and served.
Notwithstanding all oral and written instruction,
I regret to say that a large proportion of cooks
will send a Cabbage to table a shapeless mass of
hotch-potch ; your well-regulated cook will care-
fully tie it before it goes into the saucepan, and,
after it is done just to a turn, will serve it up whole
and imdishevelled, a delight both to the eye and
the palate.

Rye. F. Herbert Chapman.

THE CULTURE OF POTATOES

.\t the recent ?'ruit Congress held at Kendal,
Mr. G. P. Berry lectured on " The Cultivation of
Potatoes." Mr. Berry said that the want of lime
in garden and other soils was disastrous to Potato-
growing. The Potato was a plant which loved
Sim and air. Nothing enabled the gardener
and allotment-holder to resist ,-ittacks of disease
in Potatoes so much as wide planting. He recom-
mended growers to have the quality of their soil
chemically tested. In manuring, burnt clay
applied to some soils, and wood-ash to others,
were desirable. .\s manure for early Potatoes
(recommended by Professor Wallace), Mr. Berry
gave the following : Eighteen to twenty tons of
ordinary farmyard manure and chemical materials
at the following rate — 6cwt. wf sulphate of ammonia,
6cwt. of superphosphate (25 per cent, soluble),
2cwt. of potash salts (35 per cent, solution), icwt.
of guano containing 6 per cent, ammonia and
40 per cent, of phosphate. This should be applied
at the rate T.f lacwt. per acre. In planting, care
should be exercised. Very small Potatoes should
not be used as seed, and a Potato had a tendency
to reproduce the characteristics of its parent plant.
Having selected the Potato, whether first early
or second early, it was found advantageous to box
the seed Potatoes. It appeared that certain buds
on the Potato tuber were in more direct contact
with the stored-up material within than others.
Better results were got where a Potato produced
two or three good strong stems than when it pro-
duced seven or eight weaker stems. To f.Tcilitate the
decay of each tuber, a small piece should be cut
off the base end of the tuber. In gardens and in
allotments it paid better in almost every instance
to plant Potatoes whole. During the season the
ground should be kept as loose and porous as
possible ; and, in market - gardening especially,
the heavier the soil the higher should the stitches
be made. As to storing Potatoes, it was best
done in sheds and boxes, in which the early varie-
ties did not rim the risk of heating. Mr. Seaton
of Leeds, who was asked to speak, said that from
the agriculturist's point of view the question of
bulk was made the great consideration ; the farmer
did not concern himself much with quality. In
Vorkshire they did not grow Potatoes of the same
eating quality as those grown on the Dunbar
soils. He knew of a tavern in London where he
could always get good Potatoes at the table —
Potatoes with a peculiar close, starchy look out-
side ; a Potato which was firm and dry, with a
flavour which would satisfy an epicure. He could
not ascertain whether that excellence lay in the
cooking or in the variety ; it might be in soil con-
ditions or in climatic conditions. Many important
points in connection with Potatoes were awaiting
solution. The question of liming, for example,

was in its infancy, and, as Mr. Berry had said,
was being revolutionised. He would, however,
warn his hearers that lime seemed to have a tendency
to produce scab. .\s to the use of muriate of
potash, it had been condemned as producing waxy
Potatoes ; but he suggested that that was when a
low-grade muriate of potash was used, because it
contained a large proportinn of common salt.

TRIALS AT WISLEY IN
1914-15.

The Royal Horticultural Society have arranged
for the foUowmg trials to be held at Wisley.
Everything sent for trial must be named, and the
name and address of the sender attached, together
with the name of the raiser and introducer as
far as known.

IWelons. — Ten seeds of each \-ariety to be sent
in February-.

Herbaceous Phloxes.— Three plants of each
to be --ent in February.

Early-Flowering Outdoor Chrysanthemums.—

Three plants cil each t<. be sent in March.

Pentstemons. — Three plants of each to be sent
in Man h.

Perennial Sunflowers 'including Heleniums

and Rudbeckias:. — Three plants .if each to be
sent 111 February.

Asters (French, German, or China). — Seed to
be sent in February.

Broccoli. — One packet of seed of each to be
sent Ml February.

French Beans (Outdoor). — One pint of seed of

each to be sent in March.

Tulips. — In view of the confusion existing in
the nomenclature of Tulips, the Coimcil of the
Roval Horticultural Society have been requested
to draw up a list of synonyms, and have consented
to do so with the co-operation of the Dutch growers.
It is accordingly proposed to plant this autumn
at Wisley (where Tulips do so well) as representa-
tive a collection of all classes and descriptions
of Tulips as can be got together. Growers in
Holland are asked to send over their bulbs to be
gro«ii side by side with those from English growers.
Five bulbs of each variety should be sent during
this October. When they are in bloom, a joint
committee of Dutch and English Tulip specialists
will be invited to meet at Wisley to determine the
correct nomenclature. A synonymic list will
then be prepared and issued. It is important
that all bulbs sent should bear the name imder
which they are known or sent out by the sender,
and also an indication of their type, as early, late,
Darwin, Parrot, bizarres, bybloemens, roses, &c.
If sent by post, they should be addressed to The
Superintendent, Royal Horticultural Society's
Gardens, Wisley, Ripley, Surrey ; if sent by rail,
to The Superintendent, Royal Horticultural
Society's Gardens, Wisley, Horsley Station (London
and South Western Railway), with advice by post
to the Superintendent.

Horticultural Sundries. — The CouncU will con-
tmue their trial of horticultural sundries in 1914
under the scheme introduced in October, 1912.
The system then adopted has proved admirable
after twelve months' practical test, and sundries-
men are again invited to send their specialities
(not more than three articles in any one year).
Full particulars, with entry form, can be obtained
from the Secretary', Royal Horticultural Society,
Vincent Square, S.W., upon receipt of_ a stamped
addressed envelope.

544

THE GARDEN.

[October 25, 1913.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— 27/f Eddvr intends to
vitd-e. The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents '* columns. All communications should he
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garde v, 2n, Tui-istock
.S(rc?^ Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is se-tt, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Playits for naminq should be clearly Slumbered and securely
packed in damp .grass or moss, nr^t cotton-wool, and ftoweriny
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Pttbusher.

FLOWER GARDEN.

OLD-FASHIONED ANNUALS FOR AN EAST BORDER

(Sunfiuweri. — Ttir foUowiiii: kiiub nt' annual will thrive
wfU in the east border, namely. Mit,'iionette, Stocks,
Asters, Phlox DrumiiioiKlii, Mariyokls, Caudytxiit, Lupines.
Larkspurs, Clarkias, Linum rubruiii. Coreopsis, Vir{iinian
Stock and Sweet Peas. Seeds of the Stocks and Asters
must he sown in a frame and the resultant plants put out
in May. Seeds of the other kinds sliouUl be sown in the
open borders early in May. The Virtiiuian Stock makes
a nice ed^intr. and the Mignonette looks well if grown in
clumps behind it.

FLOWERS FOR AN ISLAND GARDEN (M. L. W.).^
Till' followiu!:! kinds of climbing Itoses are likely to thrive
on the island you describe : Dorothy Perkins. Crimson
Kambler, Aii^uste Barbier and Rosa arvensis flore pleno.
You nii<!ht also secure a good effect by plantiuc a group
of the Japanese Rose, Rosa rugosa. Both L'olden and
red stemmed Willows will give satisfactory results, and
will probably be more successful than the red-stemmed
r>ui!wood. A few other shrubs for decorative effect
are double-flowered Gorse, common Broom, Berberis
stenophylla and Hypericum calycinum, the latter fur
the banks or margins. Another showy shrub of rambling
habit is the double-flowered Blackberry, Rubus ulmifolius
flore pleno. The common double Daffodil will be suitable
for planting as you describe, while Emperor will also
^row oil heavy soil.

IRIS K/EMPFERI (L. B.).— The best of all times in
tin- year for transplanting this Iris is just prior to the
eoniinencement of its new growth, say. raid- March to
niid-April. As tlie new quarters are not yet ready, leave
the plants where they are for the winter, unless the old
position is flooded with water, and divide and replant
in spring. It is a mistake to transplant big clumi)s of
this or any Iris intact, and not a few failures result there-
from. Hence, in conjunction with transplanting, there
should always be a division of the rootstock. Moisture
within reach of the root-flbres or semi-saturatioLi in .-uuinier-
time or during growth is quite good for th«- plant--, while
those plants that are wholly or partially' suluiR-rged in
whiter are calculated sooner or later to perish as the result.
Conversely, a condition of much dryness in winter-time
would appear abhorrent to the plants. In some instances
it iiiiuht prove fatal ; in all, decidedly weakening in effect.

HERBACEOUS BORDER (J. W. M.).—lt would have
iir'Htly a-sisted matters had you stated the nature of
the soil. Generally speaking, however. Hop Manure is
regarded as a good substitute for organic manures, though
in your case it might require a liberal application. You
should in conjunction with it employ a good dressing of
lime, say, two bushels per rod of ground, to be forked in
as the trenching of the border proceeds. The burnt ash
should also be well incorporated with the soil. Assuming
that the Desmodium is a comparatively youthful plant,
it may be transplanted as soon as the flowermg is over,
and in your district would soon re-establish itself. Spring,
witli returning growth, would, however, be a better time
for older examples, and particularly so where a clay soil
exists. March, or with the first signs of returning growth,
woiUd he the best time to divide the Guunera, for which
a bed, '2 feet or 3 feet in depth, of rich loamy soil should
be prepared. In replanting, your best guide* will be the
buried depth of the old plant, though it is not advisable
tn place the crown nnich below the surface of the soil.

PERENNIAL BORDER (Watford).— Yom idea of
" tn-nching as you \i.o." and. we presume, of planting, too,
i--^ wron^, and will not lead to good results, more particu-
larly since you now have a desire to arrange the border for
" effect." That being so, we should advise that you clear
the border of its present occupants — a three years' tenure
of the soil is not a bad one— heel them in in any convenient
spot, and then thoroughly trench and manure the ground in
readiness for planting later on. Then, if you prepare a
working plan, marking on it the position of each plant
group, you would in all probability obtain the effect which
>ou desire. In this connection it woidd help you con-
siderably if you obtained " The Hardy Flower Book,"
by E. H. Jenkins, and study the plans therein given,
toiiether with the chapters on plantinL; for effect. In
such case the planting might be deferred till March, the
liordor having in the meantime been trenched, rested, and

also refreshed and aerated by frost, sun and rain. By
those means the seedlings might be protected in pits or
frames till required for use. It is highly probable, too,
that the Chrysanthemums in flower and Pentstcmon
seedlings if put out in October would suffer from frost,
and, of the former, in any case you .should hold plants in
reserve in a frame, since" they are not only unreliable in
severe winters, but young plants invariably give the better
results. The Gladioli and Hyacinthus candicans should be
lifted at once, gradually dried off, and stored in a frost-
proof place till March, when they may be replanted. The
bulbs of these plants may continue to give good results for
years if treated anntially as advised. You need have no
misgivings about the manure. Sink a shallow pit in some
out-of-the-way corner and place it therein. By covering
it with the excavated soil— a most effectual deodoriser in
such cases — all objectionable smell would be prevented.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

PYRACANTHA LALANDI NOT FRUITING {E. A. P.).—
It is impio-^ible to liive a reasnu for your plant of Pyra-
cantha Lalamli failing fu fruit. If it is growing freely,
there is no reason to give it manure; but if the shoots
appear to be weak and the foliage thin and pale in colour,
manure may do eood. Do not overprune it for a time,
and perhaps, as the wood gets older, fruit will be borne.
There is a possibility that your plant was raised from seed
and the fruiting plants of which you speak from layers,
which woiUd account for the earlier flowering and fruiting
of the smaller plants.

LOPPING ELMS (3/. P. S.).— There is no test by which
you may ascertain when old Elm trees require lopping ;
but if you obser\e decayed places about the branches, you
may safely regard them as needing attention. Branches
which are quite sound, however, have an unaccountable
way of breaking olf not only during wind, but on quite
calm days : and when old Elms occur near houses, or in
places where people are in the habit of congregating, it is
much the safest plan to lighten all the heavy branches.
Trees which have dead tops may often be rejuvenated by
removing the dead portions to places where the wood is
quite sound, new shoots succeeding the operation.

PRUNING CLEMATISES (J. W. ./.).— The large-flowered
Clematis is Ville de Lyon, and the small-flowered one is
Viticella. Both kinds may be cut back to within two or
three buds of the base of the previous year's shoots in
i'ebruary each year. If cut back less severely, the plants
are apt to become bare at the bottom, owing to the upper
luids breaking away and the lower ones rciuaiuiug dormant .
Should you wish to extend the plaut-^. hdwiver. you may
leave eight or nine of the lower bud- and bi.ud the plants
into a horizontal position, which will induce more buds to
break into growih. Should such a course be adopted,
care must be taken to prevent the shoots becoming
entangled.

HEATH FOR NAME AND TREATMENT (Constant
Reader),— The specini'-n st'ut for name i- a riclily-coloured
variety of the common Ling (CaMuna vuliaris rubra).
We are afraid little can be done to inipinvr Un- old plant.
A much better plan will be to propa'^-at'- a stuck of younu
plants from the old one by inserting cuttings now. Make
the cuttings three-quarters of an inch to 1 inch long, and
insert fairly thickly, in pots of light, sandy soil made up of
two parts peat and one part sand. Place in a close frame,
in a hanfllieht or under a hell-^lrtss, till rooted. They
should make nice plants, which will flower the second year
from cuttings. The common Laurel may be clipped at
any time frum April to August.

TREES TO MAKE A QUICK-GROWING SHELTER
(Scot). — You cannot do better than plant Poplars in the
position you describe. The oue grow^l ip. the nurseries
as the Black Italian Poplar is the most suitable one for
tin- purpose. These can be procured up to 15 feet in height,
but possibly those 8 feet to 10 feet high will be more
suitable for your windswept land. Purchase plants with
strong, sturdy trunks which are capable of'supporting
their own weight, rather than those with slender trunks,
which will continually need attention. It is possible
that, quite strong trees will require staking until they are
well established, and it will l>e advisable wiien planting
to allow tiie heads to fall slightly towards tin- wind.
Early planting will be advantageous.

THE GREENHOUSE.

VINES IN GREENHOUSE (.s. M. /.).— Keep the green-
hoit'ie as cool and airy as yuu can during the winter
consistent with the welfare of the Geraniums. Let the
Vines break naturally into growth in the spring without
any forcing and applying extra heat. Do not overcrowd
the Vines with folia^i- during the summer. The branches
of the Vines on which the bunches of Grapes appear
(and which are tt-rni'-d spurs) should not be nearer together
than 15 inches (we mean 15 inches between the spurs*
on either side). As soon as each spur in sprim: has made a
tzrowth of three small leaves beyond the leaf opposite
to which the bunch is situated, let the spur be sto])ped
by pinching it off with the finger and thumb imni-diat. iy
above the third small leaf higher than that opposite
tn wiiich the bunch is on. Subsequent young growths
will issue from each spur in the course of the summer.
Let each of these, no matter where situated, be pinched
back at the top of the third young leaf as soon as it is
formed. This eftVctively prevents overcrowding of the
foliage of the Vines during the summer, giving the spurs
a chance to develop and ripen their growth for the pro-
duction of a good crop the following year. Do not give
any front air to your Vines before the middle of April.
The temperature "up till then may be regulated by top
or hack ventilation. As the heat of the sunmier advances,

more air must be givt-u to the front and back. With
regard to the border, it must always be kept free from
weeds. Fork into the border now, l inches deep, bon.--
meal and lime at the rate of one quart of each to the square
yard, .^'over over your border at the end of this month
with littery straw to the depth of 4 inches. Take this
covering off at the end of April, give the border a good
soaking of manure-water at the same time, and cover
over a few days afterwards with a layer, 4 inches deep,
of well-decomposed farmyard or stable manure as a mulch
for the summer. Water'as you ha-\e done before. Good
results should follow this treatment.

ROSE GARDEN.

ROSES DESTROYED BY CATERPILLARS (A Sub-
scriber).— We think if \ou were to well spray the Koses
with Carlton Arsenate of Lead Paste you would check the
trouble. It is obtainable from Messrs. W. Voss and Cti.,
Millwall. London. E. Dip the roots in the solution, and,
when planted, well spray the branches and continue the
spraying throughout the summer at intervals of ten or
twelve days.

ROSES FOR FLORISTS' WORK (G. ,S'.).— Jlrs. Herbert
Stevens would be a valuable white, and you should also
plant some Vian Karl Druschki, also Y'vonne Rabier for
sprays. A dozen good kinds to plant in quantity for your
business would be Lady Hillingdon. Lady Pirrie, Mme.
Abel Chatenay. Mrs. Alfred Tate, Duchess of Wellington,
General Macarthur, Lady Roberts, Mme. Ravary, Sun-
burst, Florence H. Veitch, Chateau de Clos Vougeot and
Lady Ashtown. Have them all on the seedling Briar
stock.

BUDDING BRIARS IN TUBS (Reader).— While we
do not say tin- operation would be impossible, we strongly
advise you not to al tempt it The standard Briar requires
a deal of lonkinc after when potted up or planted in tubs.
It would be much better for yon to plant them in the
garden in rows 3 feet apart and about a foot apart in the
rows. Fifteen good varieties for exhibition would be
Mrs. John Laing, Frau Karl Druschki, Dean Hole, Lyon
Rose, Caroline Testout, J. B. Clark, Hugh Dickson,
Margaret, J.ady Ashtown, JIme. Melanie Soupert, Jlrs.
George Shawyer. Mrs. Foley Hobbs, Suzanne M. Rodo-
canachi. Mrs, W. J. Grant and Mayflower. None of the
kinds you name is really good as an exhibition flower.

ROSES FOR BEDDING IN A SEMI-SHADY POSITION
(W.J. B.). — We ai'' very pleased to help yon in makins
a selection. To havr Roses in bloom in August and
September they must be varieties that also bloom in June
and July ; but as you are not in residence during thi'-i
latter months, you could instruct your gardeuer to reTiiip\i
the earlier buds, as by doing so you would considerably
help the second crop to bloom. Good varieties of tlie
colours you name and avoiding those you have would
be: Pinks — Mme. Leon Pain. Gustav Grnnerwald and
Lady Ashtown. Reds — Lady Battersea, General Mac-
arthur and Lieutenant Chaure. White or blush —
Augustine Guinoisseau. La Tosca and Molly Sharman
Crawford. Yellows — ilme. Ravary, Marie van Hontte
and Mrs. Aaron Ward.

ROSES WITH SUBSTANTIAL BLOOMS FOR EXHI-
BITION (Vio!-i). — We quite see your ditftcuity, and tliiuk
that the list niven below will meet your requirements.
Hybrid Perpetuals. — ^Alfred Colomb, Charles Lefebvre.
Comte de Raimbaud, Dr. Andry, Geoffrey Henslow .
Hugh Dickson. Louis van Houtte. Mrs. John Laing
and Suzanne M. Rodocanachi. Hybrid Teas. — Alice
Lemon. Cidond Leclerc. Countess of Caledon, Countess
of Shaftesbury. Dean Hole, Dr. O'Donel Browne, Duchess
of Normandy, Duchess of Westminster, Earl of Warwick,
Entente Cordiale, Ferniehurst, Florence Pemberton,
Frau Ober. Piecq, F. R. Patzer, George C. Waud, Geoffrey
Henslow. George Dickson, J. B. Clark, Jonklu^er J. L.
Mock. Lady Barham, Mabel Drew, Mme. Jules Bouche,
Margaret. Mayflower. Mrs. C. West, Mrs. George Shawyer,
Mrs. Wallace H. Rowe, Oberhdfgartner Terks, Papa
Lambert, Queen of Spain, St. Helena and Sunburst.

MISCELLANEOUS.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— Bo?//«r(7/('.— Hose Eugene Furst.

W. C. County Antrim. — Leycesteria formosa.

O. IT'., Wantage. — Phygeliuscapensis. or Cape Figwort.

A. R.. Jersey. — Sollya heterophylla. Erica arborea, Elaeag-

nus orientalis, Paliurus australis (Christ's Thorn).

A. A. B., Swindon. — Lilium speciosum. Forfar. —

Cannot name from leaves only. Ignoramus.- — Swainsona

tzalegifolia. Should no( be ciit dowTi. but allowed to grow\

It is an Australian plant and has red flowers. Mrs. C,

Salisbury. — 1. Aster cordifolius ; 2, A. multiflorus ; 3,

A. Novie-.\n<iIia; variety ; 4, A. Amellus variety,
NAMES OF FRUIT. — .Major K. — \. Bismarck :

B, Northern Greening. G'. TC. irrtw^«f/c.— Apples too

poor to name. Pear, Marie Guise. W. if.— Rambour

Fioue. D. T., Wolrerton. — 1, Stoke Pippin ; 2, Lady

Heunikcr. A. T. C. Reigate.—l, Blenheim Orange;

2. Sandringham ; o. Bianiley's Seedling ; 4, Royal

Nonsuch : 5. Haeon's Incomparable. Mrs. C. B. P.,

Dorset.— 1. decayed, probably Lord Suflield ; 4, Norfolk
Beefing ; tj. MankV Codliu ;" 7, decayed ; l>, Victoria ;

10, Lamb Abbev Pearmain : 11, Wellington: 12, John
Apple; 15, Lord" Suflield: 17, Court Pendu Plat; 19,

Stubbard. ^ ~ W. M. R. — -1. Cox's Pomona; 2, Warner's

King; 3. Striped Beefing : 4, Bramley's Seedling; 5, Lord
Derby ; 6. Tower of Glamis : 7, Warner's King ; 8, Peas-
good's Nonsuch : 9, Flanders Pippin; 10, Fearn's Pippin;

11. Blenheim Orange : 12. John Apple; 15, Old Haw-

thornden. F. G.. Clayqate. — 1, Christmas Pearmain ;

2. Hoary Morning : 3. Newton Wonder ; 4. Roundway
Magnum Bonum ; 5, Sugarloaf ; 6, Schoolmaster,

^^m-^-

GARDEN. ,

No. 2189.— Vol. LXXVII.

November i, 1913.

GONTBMTS.

Notes op the Week. . 545
corrkspondenoe

Th'" Apennine Wind-

Hower 546

Failure of Pears . . 546
Autumn-f ruili ng

Raspberries . . 547
Solidago Golden

sheaf 547

Saxifraga burseriaiia

in Scotland. . . . 547
Lilium gicanteum in

Yorkshire . . . . 547
liip Daffodil in Xcw

Zealand . . . . 547

A ^HW PLANT FERTI-

USER 547

Forthcoming events . . 547
Rook and Watkr Gaiu>en
Some interesting facts
abont G e n t i a n a

verna 548

Rose Garden
In a n a mp sh i r f
'jardcn . . 548

Trees and Shri'rs
A showy Clematis
for the flower
border . . . . 549
The best trees for
avenues . . . . 549

Flower Garden
The Campanulas or

Bellflowers .. .. 650
The Siberian Iris . . 551
Tulip notes . . . . 551
New and Rare

Plants 552

Gardening for Beginners

Rooting cuttings of

Curr an ts and

Gooseberries . . 563

How to treat sreen-

house cl i mbing

plants 563

Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 554

For Northern gar-
dens 654

Seasonable Xotks on

Chrysanthemusis. . 555
Fruit Garden

Renovating old

Vines 556

NPRSERT Notes
Messrs. Seabrook
and Sons . . . . 556
Answers to Corre-
spondents
Flower garden . . 55f)
Greenhouse . . . . 556

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Anemone apenniua in a read'^r's garden 540

Gentiana verna 54S

Clematis jubata 549

A handsome border Campanula 550

The Siberian Iris by the water-side 551

The new Chrysanthemum William Vert 552

Rooting cuttings of Currant; and Gooseberries , . 553

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
seated in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes pftotographs, articles and notes,
bid he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, zviU be taken, and where stamps
are etuUoscd, he will endeavour to return non-acrepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or oumer of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor wiU not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden unll alone
be retoijnised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tainstock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Shrubs with Good Autumn Foliage. — Among

the many plants that give us such beautiful tints
with their foliage, several species of the Rhus
family should be noted. At the present time
such as Rhus typhina, R. Cotinits and R. cotinoides
are among the most gorgeously-coloured foliage
in the gardens, and if backed with golden varieties
of Populus, such as a bed we have in mind, the
colouring is still more beautiful.

An Attractive Rock Plant. — Of the several
New Zealand Burrs that we now have, Acjena
microphylla, the Small-leaved Burr, is one of the
best for the rock garden with its crimson, globular
heads of spine-formed calyces, which are a very
conspicuous and ornamental feature of the plant
at this time of the year. These look like so many
crimson stars, 2 inches or 3 inches high, upon a
cushion of small, green, pinnate leaves. It is a
worthy plant for all rock gardens, as it will do in
almost any soil or situation.

A Late Sunflower. — Though not so free-
flowering and sliowy as some of the September-
flowering perennial Sunflowers, Helianthus doroni-
coides must be considered quite as valuable, for
the blooms are at their best in mid-October.
Growing about eight feet in height, the flowers
are rich yellow and about two inches across. Such
late-flowering plants are ver\' useful to brighten
up the shrubbery borders, and also provide useful
material to cut for indoor decoration. H. doroni-
coides ii a North .\meriran species.

Two Good Autumn Roses. — Two of the best
Roses, apart from the Dwarf Polyantha varieties,
in our garden on Monday last, the 27th ult., were
Mrs. Arthur Mimt and General Macarthur. Both
were in full flower, and the blooms were almost
as full and fresh as those we had in July. Mrs.
Arthur Munt, owing to the erect flowers being
borne on long, stout stems, is ideal for cutting,
and nearly every bloom is of exquisite shape.
The colour is ivory white, with a very faint blush
showing through the petals. General Macarthur
we look upon as one of the best red garden Roses,
and it is deliciously fragrant.

A Beautiful but Old Michaelmas Daisy. —

In these days, when we have so many beautiful
varieties of Michaelmas Daisies, we are apt to
overlook some of the old but beautiful species,
of which Aster Tradescantii is one of the best.
It is said to be the first of the many North American
species cultivated in Europe, being introduced
about the year 1633 by John Tradescant, who was
gardener to Charles I. In a border among many
of the varieties of recent introduction, A. Trades-
cantii, with its long, elegant sprays of pure white
flowers, which are borne in great profusion, is
as conspicuous as any of them. This makes us
think that the old kinds of flowers are not always
deserving of the neglect they get.

A Late-Flowering Wall Shrub. — Ax this time
of the year the number of shrubs flowering out of
doors, either in the open or against a wall, are
somewhat limited, so where it is possible a place
against a warm south wall should be found for
.^butilon megapotamicum, sometimes known as
A. vexillarium. .\Ithough it is not hardy, it
succeeds perfectly well against a warm wall, and
will give a profusion of blooms — the sepals of which
are of a rich dark red, the petals pale yellow —
from early summer till the frost comes.

A Hint for Planters. — Last .May. when the
crimson and pink Thorns were flowering, we saw
several instances where these charming trees
were in particularly bad positions ; hence a word
of warning seems called for now that the planting
season is here. The trees in question were placed
so that the dwelling-house of glaring red bricks
formed a background, and anything more incon-
gruous it would be difficult to imagine, the different
shades of red clashing horribly. Crataegus Pyra-
cantha, with its orange red berries, looks almost
as bad at this season when nailed tightly to a red
brick \\\i\]. Til'- ntnr.il ^^ i)b\ious.

An October-flowering Plum. — The present speii
3f mild weather is proving very favourable to hardy
trees and plants which flower in late autuimi.
Among these, the uncommon Prunus miqueliana
is very prominent. It is flowering well this year.
The semi-double white blossoms are about three-
quarters of an inch in diameter and fragrant.
Flowering naturally at this season, Prunus miqueli-
ana should prove a useful shrub to grow in pots
for indoor decoration, as at this season we may
any day have a frost and spoil the flowers.

Autumn - Flowering Sage for the Green-
house.— Salvia involucrata Bethellii is a plant that
is not grown so much now as it was at one time.
This may be due to the fact that there are so many
other beautiful plants for decorating the con-
ser\'atory during the autumn, although that is
hardly a good enough excuse for leaving this attrac-
tive plant out. It is a handsome variety, with
whorled spikes of bright rosy carmine flowers
borne at the end of the branches. As it is easily
raised and requires little attention, it should be
used for greenhouse decoration in the autimin.

Late-Flowering Saxifrages. — Although the

majority of Rockfoils hlocjiu in sprijig and summer,
there are one or two that are \-aluable for their
late-flowering character. One of the best of these
is Saxifraga Fortimei, a beautiful Chinese species
with erect panicles of white flowers standing well
above the leaves, which are reniforme, cordate
and of a glossy, dark green colour, .\nother species
very similar to S. Fortimei, flowering at the same
time, is S. cortusioides, a plant of more recent
introduction, with less hain.- stem, and the petals
are entire. Both are quite hardy and succeed best
in a partially-shaded position in gritty, rich, well-
dramed soil, or are excellent for growing in pots
for a cool greenhouse.

546

THE GARDEN.

[November i, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible /or the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

The Apennine Windflower. — This charming
Wmdflower, Anemone apennina, is quite at home
in a shady corner of the rock garden at LUford
Hall, Barnwell, Oundle, where it gets little sun.
It is planted ih loam, leaf-sod and grit, with plenty
of broken stones mixed with the soil. Six plants
were the beginning of the group ; but now, by
spreading and seeding, they have formed a patch
6 feet square, with flowers varying in colour from
deep blue to almost white. We give them a surface-
dressing each autumn of loam, leaf-soil and grit,
and the illustration shows the result. — E. Wilson.

Failure of Pears. — Referring to the Rev. C. E.
Jeans' note on page 523, I am of his opinion that
the cause was the long spell of cold nights at the
critical period in spring. I am further North, but
well protected on the north-east and south-west.

Rose Aglaia. — In your admirable Rose Number
uf October 11, reference was made to the climbing
Rose Aglaia. With me, in an old garden possessing
a very light but fairly deep soil, it has succeeded
beyond expectatioi^, indeed, I cannot say too
much for it. The beautiful glossy, dark green
foliage is always proof: against mildew, and the
green fly and the maggot prefer to go elsewhere.
It is most generous in blooms, producing the
exquisite yellow buds in great profusion during
the entire season. As a covering for, say, a summer-
house, I can conceive nothing better, as the branches
want to fall all round like a Weeping WiUow. Of
course, the pruning-knife was not made for
.■Aglaia. May I take this opportunity to say
how much indebted I feel for the many helpful
hmts which have come to me from The
Garden. I grow, in a small way, chiefly
Hybrid Perpetuals, which flourish like weeds
and bloom magnificently ; but the Hybrid
Teas (all dwarf), for some reason or other best

ANEMONE APENNINA FLOWERING FREELY IN A READER'S GARDEN.

My record is : Doyennfe du Cornice, fourteen trees,
three on wall, six Pears ; Williams', five trees,
half a bushel ; Conference, six trees, two on wall,
half a dozen ; Pitmaston Duchess, five trees,
six Pears ; Gansel's Bergamot, large tree, one
peck ; Louise Bonne of Jersey, four trees, one
dozen ; Chaumontel, heavy crop ; one Bergamot
Esperen, also heavy crop ; Durondeau, two trees,
four Pears ; Bergamot, never fails, one tree, one
bushel ; Catillac, one tree, ten Pears ; Marguerite
Marillat, three trees, none ; Uvedale's St. Germain,
one large tree, one dozen ; Beurre d'Amanlis,
three trees, none ; and about ten other varieties,
none ; thirty varieties. Pliuns Pond's Seedling
and Orleans, fair crops ; Victoria and Prince of
Wales, a few ; others none. Apples, 95 per cent. ;
fifty varieties heavy crops, notably Blenheim
Orange, Wellington, Newton Wonder and Bram-
ley's Seedling. — Hugh Jones, Tudor House,
Monkcn Hadiey, New Barnet, Herts.

known to themselves, are sulky and make a
poor show. — J. W. Cooper, Alberta Lodge, Dalkey,
County Dublin.

Verbena venosa. — I had not grown this
plant mitil this summer, so was particularly
interested in Mr. Brotherston's note on page 523.
As I write I have it in a big bowl in the hall,
and it is glorious, and certainly most uncom-
mon in colourmg. Mr. Brotherston asks a
" poser " when he enquires about its colour. To
begin with, what is violet ? Interrogate five
different people and I expect you would get five
different replies. To me purple and violet are
something like a Daffodil and a Narcissus. Every
Daffodil is a Narcissus, but every Narcissus is not
a Daffodil. Every violet is a purple, but every
purple is not a violet. After this Delphic definition,
I ask myself, what is heliotrope ? I reply, the
shade of the old Cherry-pie that used to grow
in my father's greenhouse long before the advent

of the deep shades into practical politics. Hence,
so defined, V. venosa is not a heliotrope ; nor is
it a violet or purple pure and simple. Under
any light it is not that balanced shade which could
be said to be neither reddish nor bluish. The see-
saw is down on the red side always. Summing up,
my answer is that it is a rich reddish purple in a
mass. — Joseph Jacob.

Lime-Hating Campanulas. — In The Garden
of October 18 I observe that Mr. Amott, in
his interesting article on Campanulas, describes
C. pulla as a " lime-hater," This is contrary to
my experience of the plant ; but I have so often
seen it so described, and by such eminent authori-
ties, that it would be interesting to learn how the
legend originated. Mr. Robinson advises its
cultivation in peat and sand ; so also does Mr.
Heath of Cheltenham. Both of these mstructions
were published some years ago. Mr. Farrer also,
a few years later, in " My Rock Garden," stated
that C pulla " positively dislikes lime " ; but
I presume that he has since learnt
the contrary from experience, as in
" The Rock Garden " (a later work) he
states that it grows " amongst lime-
stone blocks in Nature." The most
recent work I have — Harold Thomp-
son's " Alpine Plants of Europe " —
also states that this Campanula comes
from the calcareous Alps. If Mr. Farrer
and Mr. Thompson have correctly
given its habitat in Nature, one won-
ders how Mr. Robinson, Mr. Farrer (in
his earlier work) and Mr. Amott came
to describe it as a " lime-hater." Were
they restating a tradition, or was the
description the outcome of their ex-
perience ? When I first obtained the
Campanula I planted it in accordance
with the directions of the authorities
— in a pocket containing sandy peat.
There it remained comfortably for
two seasons without displaying much
• nthusiasm, but in its third season it
suddenly appeared in the adjoining
space on the rockwork — a large tract
composed of loam and limestone chips,
and limestone chips in plenty on
the surface and devoted to alpine
Primulas. Here C. pulla ran amok,
and before the summer was over
I had, in desperation, to remove all
the Primulas before they were choked
to death and leave C. pulla in
possession. It has availed itself
of the permission, and now occupies not only this
tract, but is also endeavouring to spread from
it in every direction through the limestone, and
unnoticed bits evidently accompanied the Primulas
to their new home, as I see the Campanula appear^
ing there already. So far the only Campanula
I have found to dislike my limestone soil is C;
excisa, but as this never reappears with me, no
matter where it may be planted, I have not been
able to ascertain its " likes." Even C. Allioni —
since I followed Mr. Farrer's prescription and
planted it in moraine — lives and flowers in lime-
stone, but it seems slow to increase. Returning,
however, to C. pulla, there is not the slightest
doubt that here, at all events, it rejoices in lime,
and I should be much interested to learn whether
its failure — for it is not everywhere an easy plant —
can anywhere be traced to the presence of lime
in the sMl. — Murray Hornibrook, Knapton,
Queen's County, Ireland.

November i, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

547

Autumn-Fruiting Raspberries.— I am sending

tun spr.ivs nf Raspberries for your inspection.
I thought perhaps it might interest readers to
know tliat I have been gathering Raspberries
all through September and October, and have a
good lot now. You will see by the enclosed that
the fruits are large and well worth growing, and I
have plenty of them to gather every day. —
H. Curtis, The Gardens, Harptree Court, East
Harptree, near Bristol. [The fruiting sprays sent
b\- our et)rrespondent were very good. — Ed.]

Solidago Golden Sheaf. — Being attracted by
this variety of ("loldeu Rod as exhibited at the
Royal Caledonian Society's Show in September,
igir, I bought a root of it, which was planted in
the spring of last year. It failed to open its
flowers last autumn, but I attributed this to the
result of the cold, sunless season and the late plant-
ing. This year I looked for its golden heads some
time in September. I regret to say, however,
that it is only now, in mid-October, beginning to
show colour, too late to be of any service. I should
be glad to hear what the experience of others
has been with this plant, either north or south of

the Tweed. — CaI.I-OON l.A.

Saxifraga burseriana in Scotland. — My ex-
perience with S. burseriana may be of interest
to those who are perplexed by the accounts of its
habitat in a Swiss gorge and who may fear to try
it at home. It appears to be not at all a difficult
plant, either as regards soil or situation. Many
years ago 1 planted a large clump from a 6-inch
pot into a border along with other hardy flowers,
and there it remained with the aid of an occasional
dusting of fine soil till a year ago, when it was
transferred to a rockery at that time reconstructed.
It was placed where the sun shone on it from early
morning till two or three o'clock in the afternoon,
and is certainly none the worse-looking for being
shifted. It is growing in ordinary loam, and a
few weeks ago, with other Saxifrages and dwarf
plants, was dressed with the usual fine soil I am
in the habit of applying periodically to these
plants. l''rom tht* way they respond I have come
to regard these dressings as a very important
item in the cultural treatment of low, close-growing
alpines, and have for long made it a routine practice.
— R. P. Brothkrston. Tyninghame, Prestonkirk,
N.R.

Lilium giganteum in Yorkshire. — A native of
the momitainous regions of Northern India, this
handsome Lily reaches a high standard of excellence
in favoured places in this country. We have had
fine specimens in flower this summer growing in
a spot almost surroimded by large trees, two Yews
on one side making an admirable foil. Several
spikes of about eight feet in height, containing from
eight to twelve large blooms, Were to be seen
flowering towards the end of July and lasting for
about three weeks, filling the air with their fragrance
for some considerable distance. The bulbs were
planted three years ago in a prepared bed of loam,
&c., have not since been disturbed, and this is the
first time of flowering. Each season good, healthy
growth has been forthcoming. During the dry
spell this summer the bed received a few good
soakings of water, and a liberal mulching of farm-
yard manure was also applied. No one who has
had the pleasure of seeing Lilium giganteum in
its full beauty can fail to give it a trialj for its
noble grandeur adds distinction to any garden.
In choosing a position, one should be selected,
if possible, sheltered from the north, and anythmg
approaching a stagnant soil should be avoided. —
H. TtiRNKR, Sfrlby Hall Gardens, Bawtry, Vorft.<.

The Daffodil in New Zealand. — A correspondent

has just sent me a cutting from the New Zealand
Herald of August last, giving an account of the
Auckland Daffodil Show, which appears to have
been a very successful function. It quotes a
speech made by the judge (whose name is not
given). I quote from it. " The seedlings," he
remarks, " have some very good blooms among
them, and to-day's display in this section makes
one extremely dubious about buying plants from
Home." This is a little unkind to Messrs. Barr,
who were given a cup at the show. He proceeds,
" Although Home nurserymen may produce a
few seedlings of better quality than those grown
in the Dominion, I think the New Zealand average
seedling is better than the Home plant." .\\\
this makes very sad reading for the Old Country.
Sic transit (iloria Mundi, sic transit Bernardino
and all the good things we have prided ourselves
on ; and no doubt after this Mr. Engleheart,
Mr. Crosfield and humble followers of them like
myself and others will give up any further work
and leave otT wasting our time. — F. H. C.

A NEW PLANT FERTILISER.

DURING recent years, owing mainly
k to the increasing difficulty ex-
I perieneed in obtaining natural
f manure, scientists have devoted
considerable time and thought to
the question of fixing the free
nitrogen present in the air so as to render it avail-
able for use by green-leaved plants. As any
student of botany is aware, many plants belonging
to the Pea family, such as Beans, Peas and Clover,
have on their roots little swellings, technically
known as nodules, which contain bacteria that are
capable of extracting this free nitrogen from the
air and so converting it that the plants, and also
those that follow them, are able to make use of it.
It was argued some years ago that if these bacteria
could be artificially added to the soil in sufficiently
large quantities, and induced to carry on their work,
plant-life generally would be considerably bene-
fited thereby. Then came Professor Bottomley
of King's College, London, with a culture that
he called nitro-bacterme, and for which he claimed
that it would, if properly treated, inoculate the
soil with sufficient bacteria to render the application
of artificial nitrogen unnecessary. Time has proved
that this did not, under practical conditions, do
what was claimed for it. Now, Professor Bottorrdey
comes forward with inoculated peat. At the
Horticultural Club on Tuesday of las{ week the
Professor gave an exceedingly interesting lecture
on the subject and proved beyond all doubt that,
whatever may be the reason, the application of
this prepared peat has a very marked effect on
vegetation. Briefly, the peat is treated with
aerobic bacteria to destroy the injurious humic acid
that it contains. Next it is sterilised by steam,
and finally inoculated with a pure culture of
nitrogen-fixing bacteria.

Experiments have been conducted in various
parts of the coimtry with this inoculated peat,
but two instances will suffice for our purpose at
present. One experiment — and the most important
to horticulturists — has been conducted at Kew.
Here the curator, Mr. W. Watson, has per-
sonally supervised the work, and those who are
privileged to know him are fully aware that
he has little faith in scientists of any kind,
and would be only too glad to be able to condemn

their theories. Two each of plants of widely
diverse characters, such, for instance, as Abutilons,
Fuchsias, Salvias, Hippeastrums, Asparagus plu-
mosus and Maidenhair Ferns, were selected, one
of each being grown in ordinary potting soil and
the other in potting soil to which the prepared
peat had been added, in proportions of one part
peat to two of soil, one part peat to four of soil,
and one part peat to eight of soil. The plants
had been brought from Kew for members of the
Club to see, and in every instance both root and
stem growth of those growing in the peat-charged
soil was very much better than that of those grown
in ordinary soil. Mr. Watson, who addressed the
meeting at the conclusion of the lecture, stated
that he had no doubt whatever that the prepared
peat, when added to the soil, had a highly beneficial
effect on the plants. He also stated that when
used at its greatest strength, i.e., one part of peat
to two of soil, it had no injurious effect on vegetation,
yet the one part of peat to eight of soil mixture
gave just as good results.

The other experiment has been conducted by
Mr. Peter Lees, the well-known authority on golf
greens. Unfortimately, this was not made known
until the close of the meeting, when many members
had left. .Apparently Mr. Lees has been using
this prepared peat at the rate of 30Z. per square
yard as a top-dressing to badly worn or thin greens,
with a result that is little short of marvellous.
Not only was new top growth made in abundance,
but roots also of a fibrous and far-reaching character
were formed. If this were all, it would seem that
we have a panacea for all the troubles that beset
the grower of plants. But Dr. Voelcker rather
put a wet blanket on the enthusiasm of those present
when he asked the pertinent question whether the
benefit was due to the nitrogen-fixing bacteria
or to the plant food that peat naturally contains,
and which would be rendered available by elimi-
nating humic acid and by sterilisation, and to the
mechanical effect that peat would have upon soil
used in the proportions named. Dr. Keeble,
who also had something to say on the subject,
supported Dr. Voelcker's statement that probably
sterilisation of peat by steam would have a greater
beneficial action upon it than the inoculation
with nitrtjgen-fixing bacteria.

The question of cost in producing this prepared
peat was raised by several members, but on this
important point Professor Bottomley would not ex-
press an opinion. If it can be produced cheaply —
which we very much doubt — it will certainly prove
a boon to the gardener, no matter whether its
beneficial action arises from the natural manurial
substances that peat contains or from the nitrogen-
fixing organisms. Meanwhile, we must wait and see.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

November 4. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Exhibition at Vincent Square, Westminster.
Sevenoaks and West Kent Chrysanthemmn Show
(two days). Plymouth Show (two days).

November 5. — National Chrysanthemum Society's
Show at the Crystal Palace (three days). Autumn
shows at Stoke Newington, Undercliffe, Guildford,
Barry, Bromley, Northampton, Bideford, Totten-
ham {two days), and Highgate (two days).

November 6. — Devon and Exeter Show (two
days). Shows at Weston-super-Mare, Newport
(Monmouth), and Bury.

November 7. — Shows at the Corn Exchange,
London ; Hinckley, Eccles, and Kirkcaldy (two
days).

November 8. — Shows at Loughborough, Wood
Green and Formliy.

548

THE GARDEN.

[November i, 1913.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

SOME INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT
GENTIANA VERNA.

FEW of the alpine flowers which decorate
our gardens during April and May
have such a charm, both for daintiness
of outline and intensity of colouring,
as the Vernal Gentian. ' While seeming
to revel in the moist atmospheric
conditions prevailing in many parts of Ireland,
it is not often that Gentiana vema is seen at its
best in the Eastern Counties of England, where,
during the early spring, we frequently experience
dry, cutting winds from the north-east. These
arid conditions, which so rapidly cause our Ramon-
dias to turn brown and curl inwards, are, I believe,
responsible for much of the difficulty we experience
with some of our mountain plants, especially as the
sodden condition of our normal winters
induces the plants ti) be constantly
active, instead of being at rest during
the chill time of the year.

So many plants are "hardy" while
dormant, and, again, many more arc
immune from the frost so lung as they
are comparatively dry ; but when wet
and cold jointly act upon them, the
result is often fatal, or at least con-
siderably reduces their vitality.

It occurred to me some years ago
that these unbappy conditions could U*
a large extent be modified by inducing
the plcjits to go to rest at the end of
the autumn, and a sheet of glass some-
what larger than the patch or tuft,
placed above it and supported upon
three or four bent wires, formed a
ready means of throwing off all rain,
while a slight tilt to one side allows the
water to drip off on to seme pre-
arranged stone, thus avoiding any
damage to neighbouring plants. This
sleep-inducing system proved so far
successful that I have for several
years past, despite the smoky condition
of my neighbourhood, been favoured
with a pleasing display of the " blue
stars " of G. vema, among other alpine
subjects, which I treated in this way.

To illustrate as certainly as possible
and so check off the value of this
" dodge," I made the following experi-
ment, commencing in the spring of
1912 by planting two small patches of
G. vema in as nearly similar positions
as possible, and both in a ccmpost of
loam, leaf-mould, chips, sand and old mortar in
roughly equal proportions, the aspect being full
south, and both kept copiously moist from the
end of March to September

In November, 1912, I placed a roof glass over
Patch A, while I allowed Patch B to go unpro-
tected. With the exception of occasionally clean-
ing the glass, no further attention was given to
either. In early March the glass was removed
from A, which then looked dry, close in habit
and healthy, though no flower-buds were showing,
the whole plant appearing dormant. At the same
date (early March) Plant B was well " on the
nvive," looking fresh and much more pleasing
than its competitor A, and not appreciably harmed
by the wet winter, so far as growth was concerned,
while four or five of the points were " bronzing

up," as the flowering crowns do as the buds form.
On March 30 Plant A was rapidly developing,
and all the points looked as if about to " push "
into flower-buds, while fifty of such buds were
actually showing. Plant B at that date was swell-
ing its twelve flower-buds almost to bursting
point. On April 16 Plant B opened its first flower
and had increased its buds to eighteen. On April 18
Plant A opened its first flower, showing how rapidly
it had developed after its more complete rest,
catching up Plant B to within two days. The
fifty buds of March 30 had increased to i-io. On
April 20 Plant A exhibited a number of opened
flowers of dazzling blue, while the total number
of blossoms and buds stood at 195. On April 27
Plant B had all its eighteen flowers open, and this
was the limit of its production.

On the same date I made the last count on
Plant A, a difficult matter where the buds were
set so thickly as almost to touch one another.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.

Notes on Newer Roses.
(Continued from page 540.)
Claudius (B. R. Cant and Sons, 1910). — A
Hybrid Perpetual-Uke Hybrid Tea with most of
the characteristics of the first-named class, includ-
ing a marked cessation of flowering between the
seasons ; but it comes good again in the autumn,
and is fragrant. It was at the autumn show of
1909 that it secured the gold medal. Those who
do not grow it might give it a trial. At its best
it is quite up to exhibition standard, and is at
normal prices.

Countess of Shaftesbury (Hugh Dickson,

iqii). — A Rose of delightful colour and shape,
but on the thin side, and oidy tiie " first " flowers
arf up to exhibition standard. Silvery carmine
and shell pink describes its colour. Its
growth is moderately vigorous. A very
beautiful Rose that must have the best
of cultivation to get substance into it.
Colleen (S. McGredy and Son, 1914). —
I was hoping this Rose would be distri-
buted this autumn, but we shall have
to wait until ne.xt year for it. Awarded
the silver-gilt medal at Belfast, and the
gold medal this year at Gloucester.
Its great shield petal is very fine.
Colour, flesh pink on a cream ground.
A good grower and very free-flowering,
and the flowers always come a good
shape. What a great boon this is to
the exhibitor, only one who has exhi-
bited knows. How many a fine bud is
nursed and tended, protected and
shielded from sun and rain, only to
prove that when it opens it is of no
use, with a great split that spoils its
beauty alike for the exhibitor and
the exhibition. And it is Roses like
Colleen, which seldom develop such a
fault, that are so useful to the small
exhibitor in particular whose space is
limited. Colleen has done well in my
garden here, and is a very great ad-
vance on Killamey, to which some
critics liken it. The raiser is very
proud of it, and considers it one of his
best introductions. While it is not
mildew-proof, it does not suffer like
many other Irish Roses from this dis-
figurement. It is a fine, vigorous
grower of good constitution.

Duchess of Normandy (Philip le
Coniu, 1912). — This has been par-
ticularly good with me this year. It is quite
as good a grower and doer as its parent, Dean
Hole, and the early season flowers were first-rate
in every respect, especially in colour. The
autumn flowers missed the sun, perhaps, and
this feature was not so marked ; but it is very
free-flowering, and my plants are now, in mid-
October, full of bud and bloom. It has the fault of
From the foregoing I think it must be admitted its parent that it is impatient of wet ; but that has
that the roof glass appears to increase the propor- no terrors for the keen exhibitor. I can recom-
tion of flower and the general health of the plant, mend it to all who have not got it, and I do so all
not merely with this test subject, G. vema, but j the more because I do not think that our cool
with very many of our choicer alpine plants, ' season has altogether suited it. It will be at its
while if, as some of my critics may suggest, the best in a hotter and drier season than the last,
beautiful cUsplay was unconnected with the treat- 1 Duchess of Sutherland (."^lex. Dickson and Sons,
ment. the glass protection does not greatly harm I Limited, iyi2). — This is a well-bnilt-up flower
the plant R. A. Mahjv. I of fine shape and nice clear colour — rose pink of

GENTIANA VERNA 1 LOWERING I REELY AITER HAVING
BEEN COVERED WITH CLASS IN TKE WINTER.

By placing pieces of string across the patch (which
was some 10 inches square) it was easily cut up
into sections, and each section counted accurately,
the total numbering 206. When first planted in
1912 the Patches A and B were appro.ximately
the same size. By the summer of 1913 A had
doubled B, suggesting that it was more vigor(Jus
in growth as well as in flower production.

November i, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

549

an unusual shade. It is a fine, vigorous grower,
almost mildew-proof, and generally of good habit.
The blooms are large, but at the same time conical
in shape, and this shape is never lost, its centre
being retained until the petals drop. This Rose
has a strong Sweet Briar perfume that is very
noticeable.
Duchess of Westminster (.Alex. Dickson and

^"ns. 1911). — Thi^ R'ise appeals by reason of its
somewhat unusual outline, and when you dissect
to find the reason, you notice that the petals are
very much cut away at the base. The result is
c2uite unique. At the same time, it is perhaps
not everyone's fancy as an exhibition variety,
as it lacks that look of " weight " that counts so
much with some judges. It has, however, an
excellent point — with me quite a good grower,
though I see some catalogues call it moderate,
(iood foliage, delicious perfume, and lasts well
when cut. Colour, rose madder pink.
The buds sometimes come rougli, hut
lln'\- open into ^ood-shaped flowers.

Earl of Gosford (S. Mc(;rrdy and
Sou, iyi2). — A strong, vigorous grower
this, that has been much freer-bloom-
ing as a cut-back. The flowers are a
wonderful coh)nr — dark crimson,
^cveral shades darker than Hugh
Dickson — and they keep their colour
111 the last. There is none of that
nasty blue tint which spoils so many
dark crimsons. Strongly perfumed
and of good shape, cupped rather than
reHexed. Must be disbudded to get
to exhibition size. Particularly good
in the autunni.

Edward Mawley (S. McGrcdy & Son.
iijii). — This Kobe has improved this
year, and has distinctly enhanced ils
reputation A good many blooms
have found tlieir way to the exhibition
tents and were staged. The previous
year they were mostly left in tlie spare
boxes. Its colour will always make
us stage it, if we can. It lias not ton
many petals, and directly the outside
row or two arc opened, the Rose goes,
so it must be cut and staged young.
Highly perfumed and with a good
habit of growth. It evidently prefers
a cool season. Everyone was glad t"
sec it doing better, if only for the
sake of the name it bears.

Elizabeth (B. R. Cant and Sons,
iijii). — A genuine pink Druschki this,
with more petals and, consequently, a
harder centre. It produces a fine pointed flower,
its only fault being that the outside petals are not
quite big enough. Very free-flowering and reliable.
Must be heavily disbudded, and is strongly recom-
mended to the exhibitor.

Ethel Malcolm (S. McGredy and Son, 191O). — ■
This Rose is almost too free-flowering to produce
exhibition flowers, except in the early part of the
season from cut-backs ; from maidens it is a
different matter. It is flesh colour, almost maiden
blush tint, sweetly scented and a good grower, not
too vigorous, and therefore makes a very tine
bedding Rose. It was to be seen at most of the
early shows, but not afterwards, which, being
interpreted, means that it should be useful to our
Midland friends and the Northern growers who
want early Roses.

Southampton. Herbkrt E. Molyneux.

[I'u be continued.)

TREES AND SHRUBS.

A SHOWY CLEMATIS FOR THE
FLOWER BORDER.

(C. JUBATA.)

THi; accompanying illustration of this
plant directs attention to a decorative
group of herbaceous species which are
typified by the Southern European C.
recta. C. jubata resembles the better-
known species very closely in habit and
general appearance, although rather stronger, with
larger flowers. Growing to a height of zi feet or
3 feet, it bears long leaves divided into seven or less
ovate or heart-shaped leaflets, which are glaucous
when young. The white or cream coloured flowers
are borne in large terminal panicles during June,
their presence being noticeable from a consider-
able distance by reason of their fragrance, .'\lthough

THE BEST TREES FOR AVFNUES.

The selection of trees for avenue planting is a sub-
ject which cannot be dealt with lightly, for it must
be remembered that such an avenue may exist for
two or three centuries, and every possible con-
tingency must be considered before finally deciding
upon the kind of tree to plant. The character of
the soil, the room which can be allowed, atmospheric
conditions, proximity to towns and climate are all
subjects which demand attention, for the neglect
of any one may lead to failure.

Unless the avenue is to be a short one, entailing
comparatively little work and expense, it is unwise
to select a tree about which little is known, simply
because it is new or rare. About the middle of
last century many avenues were formed of new or
rare coniferous trees, and comparatively few of
them have developed satisfactorily. As a rule
it is wise to note whether a particular tree

CLliMAXlb JUBA1.\, A BEAUlllUL SPECIEb WliH DWARL-, BUSHV HABIT AND WHITE I LOWERS.

described as long ago as 1849, there is a mystery
as to its origin, for its native habitat is unknown,
.-^s C. recta is a variable plant, it is probable that
it- is- little more than a strong-growing form of that
species. Whatever its affinities, it is a very decora-
tive plant, and is well worth attention from those
people who wish for showy, hardy plants for her-
baceous borders. Given ordinary deep garden
soil it grows freely, and never fails to flower well.
Division of the clumps during winter forms a ready
means of increase, while young plants may also
be raised from seeds. As will be seen from the
illustration, growth is very dense, and it is
sometimes an advantage to cut out the
weakest shoots during the growing period,
thus admitting light and air to the stronger
ones that are left. Although not a climbing
species, this Clematis appreciates the support of a
few short Pea-sticks thrust well into the soil.

thrives well in a certain district before it is
selected for an avenue : but, at any rate, it
should be ascertained whether the local con-
ditions are likely to suit the tree. For instance,
it would be unwise to plant conifers near a smoky
town; on a very dry soil, or in a district where
atmospheric conditions are decidedly on the dry
side. On the other hand, coniferous trees would
be more suitable than broad-leaved trees for the
moist climatic conditions and moist ground which
are so often in evidence in the South and West of
England, many parts of Scotland and in Ireland.

Another point which deserves more attention
than is often paid it is the spacing of the trees,
not only in the rows, but between the rows. When
laying out the ground, the trees must be considered
as mature specimens, not as young plants, and
arrangements made accordingly. Many an avenue
has been spoilt by being made too narrow, thus

550

THE GARDEN.

[November i, 1913.

allowing no space for the proper development of
the trees. The space between the trees in the
rows is less important than the space between the
rows, for it is always possible to thin them out,
by removing every other tree, if they become too
thick. With wide-headed trees a rough guide as
to the distance between the rows may be ascer-
tained bv measuring off the space required for the
heads of two perfectly-developed trees, or the
average height of one well-grown tree, as the
centre of the avenue ; then on each side measure
back half the diameter of the mature head to find
the positions for the trees. Between the trees in
the rows, when fully developed, there should be
a space of at least half the width
of the head of a tree. In the event
of a double row of trees being
planted along each side,- the trees
must be further apart in tlie rows,
and those in the two rows should
be alternated.

If the soil is poor, holes at least
8 feet in diameter and 2 feet deep
must be taken out, and either filled
with new soil or have better soil
mixed with the best of the natural
soil. This work should be done and
the holes filled in at least two
months before planting-time, for
if the trees are planted on the
loose soil, there will be considerable
sinkage and the lower parts of the
trunks may become buried. Keep-
ing the top roots quite close to the
surface of the soil is a very necessary
item, for if the trunk is buried even
to a depth of 3 inches or 4 inches,
the tree rarely succeeds so well as
one which is planted properly.

SELECTION OF TREES FOR WIDE
AVENUES.

The Horse Chestnut (/lisculus
Hippocastanum) is one of the best
avenue trees for places which are
not seriously affected by smoke, for
its massive head, clothed with
large, ornamental leaves, coupled
with its fine inflorescences of
showy flowers, makes it a general
favourite. It is not very fastidious
regarding soil, but prefers a fairly
deep loam. The double-flowered
form is preferred by some people,
as it does not produce fruit.

The Elms (Ulmus montana, U.
glabra and U. campestris) are all
worth attention, and are very im-
posing when mature. Their only
drawback lies -in the fact that old
trees are very brittle, and large,
perfectly healthy branches are
liable to fall without warning,
even on a calm day. Where
space is limited, the narrow-headed, upright-
growing Cornish and Hertfordsliire Elms should
be chosen.

The common Lime (Tilia vulgaris) is often
chosen as an avenue tree, but in most cases it
would be wiser to select T. dasystyla or T. petiolaris,
for they are more handsome trees and the leaves do
not turn yellow so early in autumn. The mistake of
allowing the trees to branch too near the ground
is often noticeable in the Lime.

only be used in places where there is a good depth
of rich, loamy soil ; otherwise it will fail to do
itself justice. The Durmast Oak (Q. sessihflora)
may also be used, and such kinds as Q. coccinea,
Q. palustris, Q. rubra, Q. conferta and Q. Mirbeckii
are also worthy of consideration.

The common Beech (Fagus sylvatica) may be
relied on to form an imposing avenue, but
it is unwise to use it in very exposed positions,
for if subjected to rough and cold winds its full
proportions are not attained. For special positions
the purple and copper leaved kinds may be tried.

The Sycamore (Acer Pseudoplatanus) is worth
planting in districts where the tree grows to its

nigra (the Black Walnut) and Platanus orientalis
(the Oriental Plane) are other broad-leaved trees
which may be used from the Midlands southwards.
The Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo biloba), although
not used except as an isolated specimen, is likely'
to give good results as an avenue tree in places
where conifers thrive. Could an avenue of this
be established, it would form both an uncommon
and interesting feature.

Other conifers which are worth attention are
Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris), Douglas Fir (Pseudo-
tsuga Douglasii), Cedrus atlantica and its glaucous
variety, Cupressus lawsoniana and Tsuga raertensi-
ana. Where space is limited, smaller trees, such as
Prunus Avium flore pleno, double-
flowered Thorns, Pyrus Aucuparia,
Fraxinus Ornus and ^sculus
carnea, may be planted. K.

FLOWER

THE

GARDEN.

OR

BORDER C

w

A HANDSOME BORDER CAMPANULA (C. LATIFOLIA ALBA

largest size ; but where it only attains medium
proportions, some other subject is more desirable.

The common Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipi-
fera) might be used in the Midlands and Southern
Counties where the soil is good, for it grows freely
in most gardens, is an imposing, tree and uncommon
for the purpose.

The Holm Oak (Quercus Ilex) thrives well in
many parts of the country, and may be used for
avenues in the South and West. A iine avenue

The common Oak (Quercus pedunculata) forms of this tree occurs at Tregothnan in Cornwall,
a handsome tree for avenue planting, but it should Ailantus glandulosa (the Tree of Heaven), Juglans

CAMPANULAS
BELLFLOWERS.

{CoiiliiniCil from page .s.^h. )
BORDER CAMPANULAS.

KILE the gems of

the race belong

to the C a m -

panulas most

suitable for the

rock garden, a

considerable number of the border

species are of commanding value

for the garden. As a rule, they can

be successfully cultivated in the

ordinary border of common loam,

but the greater number are the

better for good soil and supplies of

manure at intervals. They are

easily raised from seeds sown in

spring in the usual manner for

hardy perennials, and the vast

majority may be increased by

division in spring or autumn.

C. alliariaefolia. — Although

rather coarse in its way, C. alliaris-
iolia is a good border plant, with
rather cordate leaves, pilose on the
surface. The drooping white flowers
are in neat spikes. It is occasion-
ally grown as C. lamifolia, C. cor-
data and C. cordifolia, and from
some nurseries a variety of C. lati-
folia alba is sometimes sold as C.
alliariaefoUa. About a foot high.
June and July.

C. amabilis. — A pretty Cam-
panula with a tuft of glossy leaves
near the level of the soil, and spikes
from 12 inches to 36 inches high of
pleasing blue flowers in July. I
have found this difficult to ret.iin,
as it often flowers itself to death, but this is not
the universal experience. Seeds or division. C.
phytidocalyx resembles this,

C. americana. — This is not a very desirable
subject, being either biennial or annual, usually
the former, and coarse in its way. It likes partial
shade and moisture, and grows from 2 feet to 6 feet
high. It has spikes of blue or .ilraost white flowers
in July. Seeds.

C. bODoniensis. — About a foot high, this is a
useful July-blooming, starry-flowered blue Cam-
panula, but one which wants frequent propagation

I

November i, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

551

(

to keep, as it seems to exhaust itself. Seeds or
division. Common soil. Alba is a white variety.

C. Burghaltii. — A handsome hybrid 12 inches
to 18 inches high, with very large, drooping bells
of light purple in July. Easy to grow in any
border, and also pretty on large rockwork. Division.
It is rather lighter than C. van Houttei.

C. elegans. — The plant the writer has grown as
this is from zi feet to 3 feet high, and has rather
toothed leaves and spikes of pendent blue flowers
in July. It was troublesome, ruiniing at the
roots, and was discarded. Seeds or division,
and flowers in July.

C. FergUSoni. — A handsome hybrid 2^ feet
high, with p.ile blue, cup-shaped flowers. Ci)mmon
soil. Division. July.

C. glomerata. — The Clustered RcDflowor is a
valuable l)order species, well known for its clustered

C. Henderson!. — A hybrid of much beauty,
after the fashion of a small Canterbury Bell, but
perennial. Neat growth, about a foot high, and
with nice blue bells on short spikes in July.
Division.

C. lactiflora. — This is a truly handsome plant
for large borders of good soil, and grows from
3 feet to 6 feet or 7 feet high. It has rather
flat heads of flower, varying from purple to white,
and there is a variety with very starry flowers.
Poor in dry soil. Seeds or division. The same
as C. celtidilolia of gardens. June, July and August.

C. latifolia. — This handsome Jmie and July
flowermg native plant, 3 feet to 6 feet high, should
be represented in gardens by C. I. macrantha and
C. 1. m. alba, two superior forms with larger bells,
and the first more richly coloured than our blue
C. latifolia. The flowers are a rich purpl". (!ood

margin of the lake ^at Kew. The remarkable
thing is that this Iris is not more widely grown.
Frequently one sees a pool or lake the margins
of which could be made far more beautiful if
fringed with the Siberian Iris.

TULIP NOTES.

Bedding Suggestions. — In all bedding arrange-
ments we want to " eat our cake and have it **
as much as possible ; in other words, we are
greedy for a long display on the same piece of
ground. We want it now and we want it again.
There are two simple ways of doing this with
Tulips. One is to place Daffodils and late-flowering
Tulips alternately in a row in a rectangular, <u'
ill a circle on a round, bed. This last spring I
had Mme. de Ctraaff and Ellen Willmott thus
jil.intcd. On a former occasion I had Seagull

THE SIBERIAN IRIS BY THE WATERSIDE.

heads of upright fllowers. It varies from blue
and purple to white, and is from 6 inches to
18 inches high. C. g. acaulis is a curiously pretty
little plant for the front of the border or the rockery.
C. g. dahurica is one of the best, and there is a
double variety. Common soil. Seeds or division.
June onwards.

C. grandis. — Another of the best border plants,
making tall spikes from 12 inches to 36 inches
high, with saucer-shaped flowers of blue or white
in good spikes. Sometimes makes too much
foliage and requires division. A capital border
plant. It is now known as C. latiloba. Jime
to July.

C. Grosseki. — .A. tail plant aj feet to 3 feet,
with coarse leaves and spikes of blue flowers.
Not a choice species. Seeds or division. July.

soU, and partial shade is preferable. Seeds or
division. C. eriocarpa is a rather woolly form of
this. S. Arnott.

{To be continued.)

THE SIBERIAN IRIS.

Iris sibirica is one of the most graceful of the
numerous water-side plants that flower in June.
Although a moisture-loving plant, it prefers not
to be planted in water, but rather on the margin
of a stream or lake. It is a sun-loving plant,
but is not in the least fastidious about soil. Some-
times it may be seen flourishing over a light,
gravelly soil, and at other times over a clayey
loam, but it always does best with its roots near
the water's edge. The illustration shows clearly
the charming effect created by this Iris on the

and Mrs. W. O. Wolseley, but there is no need to
say more, for any Daffodil and any late Tulip
will do equally well. In this arrangement the one
thing to remember is to cut ofif the stalks of the
faded Daffodil blooms within a few inches of the
ground. Just pulling the heads off is the " any-
thing-will-do " way. What I have said ought to
be done is the satisfactory plan. The rigid stems
which the lightning executioner leaves behind
are a jarring note when the Tulips bloom, even to
an untrained eye.

The second way to make the same bit of ground
do for both is to plant a cheap early Tulip alternately
with a late one, and then, when the former have
finished blooming, to cut them all off at the ground-
level, so as to allow the taller and later flowerers
more room to shake themselves out and to avoid

552

THE GARDEN.

[November i, 191 3.

the squashed-up appearance that otherwise the
leaves would have. It is a curious thing, but
this last most obvious plan is not my own at all.
A lady visitor to my garden told me about it and
assured me that it worked splendidly.

From another visitor I picked up last spring
the idea of an uneven bed — deliberately planned
and planted to come up as such. Yet what
is this but that which the Branching Tulip of
M. Bony gives us. I had a most satisfactory

dwarf plant, long, delicate-looking bloom of a
lovely pale mauve), Bleu Aimable (striking open
shape, much blue in the mauve shade ; to me very
beautiful), Euterpe (tall and stately, a veritable
queen among the paler mauves or lilacs ; in tlie
full-blown flower the lavender edges of the petals
curl in, which gives it a distinct and pleasing
appearance). Browns : Clio (tall grower, im-
mense flower of the colour of a nicely-baked biscuit),
Toison d'Or (medium height, rich golden bronze

round bed in my garden last spring. So many and browny orange ; richness personified), Jaune

were the nice things said about it that it blushed ' d'CEuf (a round flower with a lemon yellow ground

and blushed and blushed, until what once was an ' and browny orange shading), Gondvink (the

ivory white became almost all rose, for, unlike counterpart of Clio in tortoiseshell and orange ;

humanity, the old hardened sinners were the blushers . a truly magnificent flower). One word to conclude :

here, while the younger did not

appear to be affected for a consider- ,

able time by what they heard.

Think, then, of the idea of an

uneven bed. It has many

possibilities.

The Rage for Purples and
Mauves. — If to the above sub-
lieaduig I were to add rich browns
and browny yellows, I think 1
would hit off the popular taste of
iyi3. Once it was all Clara Butt ;
now it is The Bishop, Velvet King,
I'.iust, Zulu, Viking, Jubilee, Viola,
La Tristesse, Bleu Aimable, Moralis,
lUiterpe, Rev. H. Ewbank, Ergustc,
Uleu Celeste, Gudin, Crepusculc,
Tlierese Schwartze, Frans Hals and
such like ; while among the browns
and browny oranges and yellows it
is Clio (Bronze Queen), Gondvink,
Toison d'Or, .Apricot and Jaune
d'CEuf. Every one of these that I
have jotted down is a grand varicly,
and there are other good ones too,
lor 1 liave by no means e.Khaustiil
lite list. Some that I have men-
tioned are " excessively," as the old
book-lists say, scarce. The Bishop
(lilue-purple) and Gondvink (tor-
toiseshell and orange), for ex-
.unple, are probably uitw unbuy-
.ilile. Excluding such as these,
1 am going to end these notes
with a list of a few that probably
will please nine out of every ten
p<M>plc who buy them. Not all, for
the principle of one man's meat
being another man's poison is both
objectively and subjectively true.
Everyone does not like the same
thing. So here goes. Very deep
rich plum purples : Zulu (extra
tall) and Moralis (covered, as
it were, with " bloom "). Red
purple : Frans Hals (magnificent,
in two shades), Ascanio
(open Bleu Aimable shape, but with a rosy flush i The foregoing selections exhaust my space but not

to boot. The colour is of intense crimson, the
velvety sheen upon the petals adding lustre
to a very fine flower. The reverse of the petals
is light golden. A notable quality is the crispness
or firmness of the petals, that type of hardness
which the cultivator knows will make it endure.
In other words, it will prove a good keeper. From
Messrs. Wells, Limited, Merstham. See illustration.
Chrysanthemum Amy Poulton. — A Japanese

of the drooping type of exhibition flower. The
predominant shade of colour is pale pink, with a
certain degree of yellowing or creaminess iu the
centre, h'rom Mr. H. Poulton, Ware, Herts.

Carnation Cinderella. — .\ rather bright-looking
and attractive variety, best described perhaps as
an heliotrope fancy, if such a class or
. ' section exists, which we very much
doubt. This is suggested rather by
the mingling of heliotrope and
scarlet, the latter being responsible
for the greater attraction of the
flower. I'rom Messrs. G. Fairbairn
.uul Sons, Carlisle.

Cattleya Empress Frederick
Variety A. Clifton (C. MossiaD x C.

aurea). — This is a distinct form,
with white sepals and petals, and a
creamy lip which is marked with
gold and purple. From P. Ralli,
Esq., Ashtead Park.

Cattleya graniris (C. Iris x C.
granulosa). — A grand acquisition,
with chestnut-coloured sepals and
petals, and a crimson lip which is
well displayed. F'rom C. J. Phillips,
Esq., Sevenoaks, Kent.

Oncidium varieosum Weston-

birt Variety .—This is a mm h larger
(orm and bright yellow in colour.
Ironi Sir G. Holford, K.C.V.O.

Sophro - Cat - Laelia Laconia

(l.a'lni-C.ittleya callistoglossa x
Sophro - Lailia heatoneuse). — A
dwarf plant with two scapes of rosy
red flowers and a little more crimson
in the lip. From Messrs. Charles-
wurth .uid Co., H.iyw.ud's Heath.

Cypripedium Queen Alexandra

(C. lathamianum x C. Charles-
worthii). — A large, but not a very
attractive flower. The dorsal sepal
is white at the apex, and the lower
part is green and rose. Exhibited
by W. R. Lee, Esq., Heywood.
Odontoglossum Vivien. — Very

similar to a good O. crispuin, tlio
segments being almost white, with
red blotches and markings. From
Sir G. Holford, K.C.V.O.

THE NEW CHRYSANTHEMUM WILLIAM VERT,

COLOUR.

OF INTENSE CRIMSON

all over the flower ; " grand in sun " is my private
note). Real purple : Viking (very much after
The Bishop. My head man thinks it the best.
1 liardly go so far as that, but in my note-book
it has got a " v.g.," and I am desperately chary
of these letters, I can tell you). Jubilee (very dark
rich purple, long-shaped flower ; against the sun
the dark petals seem tipped with dark rubies).
Smoky heliotrope or pale purple : Ronald Gunn
(deep smoky purple, broadly edged lavender,
very tall), La Tristesse (somewhat similar). Mauve
and pale heliotrope : Rev. H. Ewbank (heliotrope,

my " fancy.'

Joseph Jacob.

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Chrysanthemum Mrs. R. C. Pulling.— .\ large
and handsome Japanese incurved variety which
also possesses the good attribute of refinement.
It is said to be an easy doer. The colour is rich
buttercup yellow. From Messrs. H. J. Jones,
Limited, Lewisham, S.E.

Chrysanthemum William Vert. — .\ Japanese
with paler margins to the petals), Erguste (a rather ol the refle.xmg type, and ol good exhibition size

NEW FRUIT.

Apple S. T. Wright.—

A large, bright, culinary Apple of excellent
cookmg qualities. The tree is of good habit
and a heavy cropper. Season : October and
November. The fruit is somewhat flat, with a
broad base, and the stalk set in a deep cavity.
On the sunny side the fruits are highly coloured,
with yellow and carmine splashes. Flesh, cream
coloured and soft ; core small. Small fruits are
quite pleasing for dessert. Parentage : Bismarck
X Peasgood's Nonsuch. An award of merit,
now confirmed, was recommended at the previous
meeting,! subject to the cooking qualities of this-
Apple. Sliown by Messrs. James Veitch and
Soiis, Limited.

November i, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

553

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

ROOTING CUTTINGS OF CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES.

o

prt-ftTfiii
a jiMiit.

CTOBER and November are the best
iiKintlis for taking cuttings of
C'looseberries and Currants. Select
well-ripened young growths. The
cuttings when made should be
from f) inches to a foot long. I'or
take off the cutting immediately below
In the case nf the Ciooseberries and

r.OOSEBERRY CUTTINGS READY FOR INSER-
TION. IN THE CENTRE IS A SUITABLE
CUTTING UNPREPARED.

Red and White Currants, remove all the buds in
the axils of the leaves except three to five at the
top of the cutting. Take out narrow trenches
a foot apart .and 6 inches deep, as illustrated.
In the bottom of these place a little leaf-mould
and sand, and insert the cuttings in this 6 inches
apart and about four inches deep. Tread the
soil firmly round the cuttings, and spread over
the cutting-bed a layer of half-decayed leaves,
some 3 inches deep, as a protection against frost
in winter. The buds need not be removed from
the cuttings of Black Currants, as young basal
growths from time to time are very useful to take
the place of old shoots which it is desirable to cut
out. Late October and the first half of November
is the best time to plant the young trees, though
the work may be done during open weather until
the end of March.

Selection of Varieties. — The growing of named
sorts of Currants and Gooseberries is by no means
a common practice. This is apparently due to
the fact that the old bushes fruit satisfactorily, so
why worry ; and when young plants are required,
cuttings are taken off the old bushes. .Ajiyone,
however, who has seen an up-to-date collection
of named Gooseberries will not be satisfied if his
own selection of sorts has been neglected.

(iooseberries. — Whinham's Industrj' is one of,
if not the best of all the red sorts, being a prolific

Dutch,
..1(1 late

White

Giant

bearer of good-sized berries, .\nother good red
is Crown Bob, while among the red sorts for flavour
Red Warrington should be chosen. Langley
Beauty is one of the best yellow sorts, free-cropping
and of good flavour. Leveller has verj' large yellow
berries, crops freely and ripens early. Gunner is
another useful yellow variety. Keepsake leads
the way as a large-fruiting green Gooseberry,
cropping heavily. For size Green London may
be grown, and for early ripening Berry's Karly
Kent. Langley Gage must be regarded as one
iif the best white (iooseberries, for it not only crops
freely, but is of excellent flavour. Whitesmith
is another white sort notable for flavour .uul general
good qu.ilities. Careless is another useful sort
witli wliite fruits.

Kiel Currants. — I'ay's Prolific, Red
Rabv Castle, and La Const.'uite; a ver\- gr
sort for a north fence.

White Currants. — White Dutch and
Versailles.

Black Currants. — Baldwin's, Boskoi.p
(very large berries) and Lee's Prolific (good flavour).

Currants and Gooseberries will grow and fruit well
in most soils if the soil is thoroughly trenched before
planting. The best soil is a deep, medium loam.
Heavy soils may be improved by working in,
when trenching, plenty of old mortar rubble,
leaf-mould and wood-ashes. If very heavy and
wet, it is worth while removing the soil to a depth
of 2 feet, putting in 4 inches to 6 inches of brick
rubble for drainage and filling up with 18 inches
of prepared soil, say, about two-thirds of the
natural soil and one-third of material to lighten it.
Light soils are improved by
deep cultivation and manuring,
using cow-manure for pre-
ference ; also, if available,
adding a few barrow-loads il
good top-spit fairly heav\
loam.

Positions and Shape of

Trees. — What are known as
bush trees are those in general
favour. In small gardens, how-
ever, where space is limited,
the trees may be planted against
a fence or wall with distinct
advantage, for not only are
the fruits easier to protect,
but it is more convenient, and
they are, as a rule, larger and
better in quality. The aspect
of the wall or fence does not
matter, except that if two
aspects can be chosen, includ-
ing one facing north or north-
west, the season of ripening
is considerably prolonged. To
plant against a wall or fence,
nurserymen train special trees
limited to one, two or three
upright growths ; these are
known as, cordons. Goose-
berries and Red and White
Currants are trained in this
form ; but Black Currants,
which fruit on the young
wood of the previous season.

if plauted against a fence, must have a liberal
supply of these young shoots left.

HOW TO TREAT GREENHOUSE
CLIMBING PLANTS.

In the autumn, greenhouse and conservatory
climbing plants need very careful attention, as
they often grow rapidly. They cover the roofs,
and, owing to the declining light and sunshine,
it is necessary to reduce the mass of growth for
the benefit of plants growing on stages under the
climbers as well as for the welfare of the climbers
themselves. The climbers that are chiefly referred
to liere are Passion Flowers, Tacsonias, Bougain-
villeas, Plumbagoes, Fuchsias and Heliotrope.
Indiscriminate pruning of the branches of these
plants would result in damage to them next year.
The Passion Flowers and Tacsonias must be
thinned out pretty freely. The shoots of the other
kinds must be pruned back one-third of their length
now. In Dectmber one-third more must be cut
off, and in February the final pruning should be
done. The last pruning will be close, similar to
that done when Grape Vines are finally pruned.
At the time when the first pruning takes place,
a gradual reduction in the supply of water is neces-
sary. As Cliristmas comes, very little water will
b," needed. In February the soil must receive a
tcorough soaking of clear water. Top-dressings
and manure-water will be needed as the new
shoots make progress. If hard pruning was
resorted to in the autumn, new shoots would grow
prematurely, and the display of blossom next
summer woidd suffer in consequence. _ B.

CUTTINGS ARE PLACED IN TRENCHES 6 INCHES DEEP WITH
LEAF-MOULD AND SAND AT THE BOTTOM.

554

THE GARDEN.

[November i, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Mowing -Machines. — Presuming that the season's
mowing is over, all machines should be overhauled
and thoroughly cleaned, afterwards oiling or
greasing them well and storing where they are
not likely to be in the way during the winter.

TurQng. — When patching has to be done, it
is as well to get on with the work while the weather
is open and where the new grass has a chance
to get well hold of the soil. If left over till the
spring, it often shows the patch the whole summer
through, and this is hardly necessary.

Grass Verges. — in many instances these have
to be renewed, and where they have been cut back
with the edging-irun a few times, the paths will
have gradually got wider, and probably are some
2 inches or 3 inches back from the water traps.
In such cases it is as well to make up the soil
I inch or 2 inches wider than is required, after-
wards cutting the turf a foot back from the verge ;
and if this is brought bodily forward, it will make
a very much better job than putting new turf
on the outside, the new turf being put in at the
back to fill up the gap. Such work takes a good
deal of time ; but if a careful and neat workman
is put on to it, it well repa\-s lt_ir the labour.

The Rose Garden.

Planting. — For bedding purposes the following
are p.articularly good : Carine, Lady Pirrie, A. R.
ftoodwin, Mme. ,\bel Chatenay, Betty, General
Macarthur, Laurent Carle, Gustave Regis, Harry
Kirk, Ladv Hillingdon, Mme. Melanie Soupert,
Marquise de Sinety, Mrs. Peter Blair, Pharisaer,
Prince de Bulgarie, Viscountess Folkestone and
Richmond. Though all the above are most
beautiful as cut flowers, a few of the singles mav
be planted, especiallv for table decoration, and
these include Old Gold, Irish Fireflame, Irish
Elegance and Red-letter Day. Another good
Rose, though not quite a single, fl^r this purpose
is Margaret Molvneu.x.

Dwarf Polyantha Varieties. — A few of these

are especially useful for bedding purposes, and
as they bloym practically the whole season through,
they deserve more than passing consideration.
Orleans Rose I look upon as far and away the
best in its class, it being most vigorous in growth ;
it is free-blooming, keeps a good colour in all
weathers, and flowers from May to December.
Jessie, Schneewittchen, Aennchen Miiller and
Katherine Zeimet are all good. Before planting,
the roots of all Roses should be carefully pruned,
partially cutting back all very coarse roots, pre-
serving the fibrous roots as much as possible.
Loose and too deep planting often residts in failure,
and providing the soil is not too vet, the plants
should be well trod in.

Established Roses, whether standards or
dwarfs, might well have some of the top growths
reduced a little to prevent them being blown abi:)Ut
by the wind, and after a storm it is wise to go round
the plants, treading the soil up to them wherever
necessary.

Plants Under Glass.

Coleus thyrsoideus. — This beautiful blue-flower-
ing plant should be given a fair amount of
room as well as plenty of light and air, or the
growth and flower-spikes will become weak, the
plant being of rather a soft nature. A little manure
should be given as the flower-spikes appear, the
pots by this time being usually very full of roots.

Roman Hyacinths that were potted early
should now be rooted sufficiently to take out ol
the ashes. They should not be given too much
light and air for a time, but kept shaded ; this
should induce the growth to lengthen somewhat.
After a few days they may be given a little heat
if the flowers are required as soon as possible.

Paper-White Narcissi may be treated similarly,
and on no account must they be allowed to get
dry at the root, or they may become blind.

Liliums. — Batches of Lilium lancifolium and I .
longiflorum that may be growing on for Christmas
and the New Year must be carefully treated,
a nice even temperature of 55" by day and 50°
at night suiting them well. Any undue forcing
is apt to upset the flower-buds at this season.

On bright days a slight dewijig over the foliage will
not hurt them ; but it must be done early in the day,
sufficient moisture being generally maintained
by damping the paths and other places.

The Kitchen Garden.

Lettuce in frames will need careful treatment
now, and though the plants enjoy plenty of air
during bright weather, cold draughts must be
avoided. Sulphur should be used on the under
sides of the leaves when there is a tendency to
mildew. Keep the soil lightly moved between
the plants as often as necessary.

Asparagus. — Three year old crowns may now
be lifted for forcing purposes. Too much heat
must be avoided at the commencement, or the
partially-rested crowns will only throw up very
weak shoots. Batches should be introduced
into the forcing- frames every two or three weeks,
according to the demand.

Seakale. — As soon as the leaves have all died
off, the crowns should be lifted and trimmed,
reserving the strongest of the thongs for next
year's planting. Store the crowns that are fit for
forcing where they are easily got at as required.
A week or two should elapse before placing any
in heat, after which it should become a weekly
operation.

Fruits Under Glass.
Vines for Early Forcing should now be in a

fit condition for pruning, after which the annual
cleaning should take place. This must not be
done in a haphazard manner, but everything
possible should be done that is conducive to
cleanliness. Woodwork, glass, walls, pipes and
trenches should all have a thorough washing
down, the walls being relimed and the pipes painted.
The Vines themselves must also be thoroughly
cleaned, and have a dressing with an insecticide,
this being even more carefully done where they may
have been infested with any kind of insect pest.
After cleaning, the borders should receive whatever
attention they may require in the way of reno-
vation or top-dressing. This is an important
factor in the ultimate success, as in most early
vineries the borders are all inside and fairly shallow.
Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)
Woburu Place Gardens^ Adilhslotif, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Planting Lily of the Valley. — When allowed
to get very thick in the beds, the flower-spikes
become very small. Wherever it is necessary to
replant, the present is a suitable time for the
operation. Trench the ground deeply, wcjrking in
a good deal of well-rotted farmyard manure, and,
if the soil is inclined to be heavy, incorporate some
sand with it. For convenience in picking the
flowers, beds 4 feet wide are very suitable. Select
the strongest available crowns and plant them
about six inches apart, so that the base of the
crowns will just be under the surface.

Planting Herbaceous Flowers. — The border

being in readiness, planting is the next step. It
is more effective to plant in clumps of not less than
three, than to plant single specimens.

The Rock Garden.

Planting. — Generally speaking, associate the
taller subjects with the bigger stones, find out the
moisture-loving plants, and plant them at the
base, placing suitable subjects higher up. F'ind
out the requirements of the various subjects as
to soil, and fill up the pockets they are to occupy-
accordingly. Aspect must also be studied, and one
should keep in mind thar, speaking broadly, the
gems are the most exacting in their requirements.

The Rose Garden.

Planting. — We have now entered upon the
ideal month for Rose planting, and those who
intend planting should not defer the" operation
too long. Prior to being planted, the roots of
the plants should be gone over, and all damaged
roots be cut back to healthy wood with a
sharp knife. Long, bare roots should also be
well shortened ; it is the fibrous roots which are

essential to the well-being of the plant. See that
the bottom of the pit is either convex or flat ; never
leave the bottom concave. When adjusting the
plant, see that it is at least as deep, or very slightly
deeper, in the soil as it was previously. Firm
the soil well right up to the base of the stem. A
miJching of light, open material will facilitate
the rooting process, and will ward off severe frosts
from the roots. See that the plants, clumps or
beds are correctly named, for even peers of the
realm sometimes suffer from loss of " face
memory."

Plants Under Glass.

Poinsettias. — Few plants brighten up a house
during the dull days more than these showy plants.
A temperature of 60° or a little over by night
suits them very well. They last long in a cut
state, but when so used they should be placed in
a somewhat cooler house for a week or ten days
prior to being cut.

Mosehosma riparium. — This member of the
Sage family, although not particularly showy,
is very useful as a winter-flowering plant. See
that the plants are not neglected for the want of
water, or they will lose their foliage quickly. Con-
tinue to give them bi-weekly supplies of liquid
manure. Do not crowd the plants.

Calceolarias. — As these plants are in active
growth during the winter months, attention must
be given to repotting ; 3-inch. 5-inch and 7-incli
pots are the usual shifts. They will generally
require shifting into 5-inch pots about this time.
Fibrous loam should form one-half of the compost ;
the <)ther half should be mostly good Beech fjr
Oak leaf-mould, with a little dry cow-manure
and sharp sand. Vaporise on the first appearance
of aphis. Keep the plants cool.

Fruits Under Glass.

Early Vinery. — Where ripe Grapes are expected
in the beginning of May, a start should now be
made. Shut up the house and commence with a
night temperature of from 45° to 50°, with a rise
of 5° during the day.

Figs. — As soon as Figs in pots become
defoliated, they should be examined, and, if neces-
sary, be repotted ; if not, some of the surface
soil should be loosened and removed by the aid
of a pointed stick, after which the plants should
be top-dressed with good loam and bone-meal
or dry cow-manure. The plants can then be
accommodated in a Peach-house or even in a shed,
where they should be kept rather dry at the root,
but not be allowed to become dust-drv.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Purchasing Gooseberries and Currants. —

Those who intend planting Gooseberries or Currants
should lose no time in purchasing. It may not be
amiss here to indicate a few reliable varieties for
the benefit of the uninitiated. Taking Gooseberries
first, Langley Gage, White Champagne and White-
smith are reliable white varieties. Among yellows,
Early Sulphur, Golden Lion and Yellow Warrington
can be recommended. Green Gascoigne and
Langley Green are two good green varieties ;
and two good reds are to be found in Red Cham-
pagne and Wonderful. Whinham's Industry,
being an extra heavy cropper, is the general favourite
for picking green for tarts. Fertility and Red
Grape are two good varieties of Red Currant,
and Versaillaise White is a good White. Three
good Black Currants are Boskoop Giant, Victoria,
and Black Naples ; but make sure that they are
free from big-bud or the mite.

The Vegetable Garden.

Seakale. — The foliage having died down, it
should be cleared away, the ground cleared of
weeds, and, if available, a dressing of seaweed
be given to the crop. A portion of the crop
intended for forcing should be lifted and planted
in rather light soil in a packing-case or bed
where it can be covered over to exclude the
light. Keep rather on the dry side, with a tem-
perature of about 50°.

Swedes. — These should now be lifted and
pitted or stored in a cool cellar among sand.

Protecting Celery. — Sharp frosts may occur now
at any time, and Celery, if not protected, is sure
to suffer. I find ncjfhing better for the purpose
than Wheat straw laid on lengthwise, and moved
down to the base of the trench when the frost
yields. Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

November i, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

555

SEASONABLE NOTES ON
CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

HINTS FOR EXHIBITORS.

DURING the first part of November
I the principal shows will be held
I m the Midland and Southern
r Counties. Further North, the other
important exhibitions will follow
closely, so that in the course of
ali'iut three weeks dozens of magnificent displays
will gladden the eyes of thousands of the general
public and cause much joy in the hearts of enthu-
siastic growers. The latter include a big per-
c Mtage of amateur cultivators, who have, in late
\' cirs, growit some remarkably fine flowers. One
.iiiiateur, who lives close to the writer, is now
flowering his second collection of plants. He has
oiilv given his attention to them for three years
altogether, and I have never seen any plants grown
bv a professional that bore finer blooms, nor speci-
mens that were cleaner or healthier. He is a very
intelligent cultivator, loves his plants, and spares
uci trouble in order to get them as perfect as
possible.

No doubt there will be many readers of The
Garden who are showing for the first time this
autumn. If they are content to enter in a few
classes only, and so make them as strong as possible,
they will be more successftil than if they weakened
the collections of blooms by entering many classes
and being obliged to fill them. Very popular classes
are those providing for six cut blooms on long stems,
to be staged in vases, six of a yellow or a like
number of a white variety being specified. Owing
to the number of one variety being six, few growers
are able to stage that number, so that an amateur
will have a good chance of securing a prize if he
stages nice blooms, even in size, fresh, and of rich
colour. The most telling varieties for vases are
yellow, white, rich crimson, yellow and bronze,
and pink and white. Dull chestnuts, faded reddish
bronze and badly- coloured specimens of amaranth
and purple should not be staged unless in everj' case
blooms of these are available at their best. Single-
flowered varieties seem very easy to stage in vases,
and they are more adaptable than the heavy
blooms of the Japanese section ; but the cultivator
should avoid placing them so that they look
straggly. On the other hand, spread out the flowers
just enough to show ofi each one to the very best
advantage. Take wedge-shaped blocks of wood to
the show, so that trained specimen plants can be
tilted forward a little ; then both judges and
public have a better view of them. Two blocks to
each pot are required.

There is a tendency of late to build up groups of
Chrysanthemums on tall erections such as drain-
pipes, tripods, even boxes, and big flower-pots.
The inside portion of such groups, when closely
examined, looks very ugly. Amateur exhibitors
should do their best to be original, and stage low
groups ; they are much more effective than the
tall ones, when the full beauty of the highest and
back blooms cannot be exammed.
Groups of Single-Flowered Varieties look quite

charming when neatly arranged. It is only during
very recent years that classes have been provided
for this section in generous numbers. The first
groups the writer saw were entirely spoiled through
overcrowding. They contained lovely plants, a
single specimen of which would have had a better
appearance than the whole group. The flowers in
the groups were simply crushed together. This

autumn exhibitors should avoid overcrowding,
and employ only their very best plants. Never
mind about producing a formal group, nice and even
from centre to edge ; have lightnees of arrangement
and harmony of colour with a neat finish ; then a
success will be scored. Avon,

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

RENOVATING OLD VINES.

[In Answer to a Correspondent.]

» S this is the season of the year for dealing

/% with the roots and borders of Vines

/ % which are in a poor condition of

/ % health, whether the Vines^be young

* ^ or old, and as the information how

best to deal with such Vines would

be likely to be useful to many readers, I propose,

with the Editor's permission, to go into the subject

in greater detail than would be possible in reply

to a question.

I am a firm believer in the strong recuperative
powers of old Vines when given a chance by generous
treatment in the way of pruning their roots and
replanting in the best possible Vine soil, coupled
with rest in spring and light cropping the first year

j afterwards. There are many Vine - growers,
amateurs especially, who consider no labour too

i great, and will spare no pains in affording all
possible help to their Vines in the way of attending
to their foliage and fruit, and in ventilating,
watering, &c., but who practically forget the
existence of roots, or the want of them, and then
wonder how it is that their Vines so often fail to
produce satisfactory crops. It is not necessary to
lay stress on or to emphasise the fact that success
in Grape-growing depends in the first place on
the quantity, health and strength of the roots of
the Vines. Without such roots it is quite impossible
to produce satisfactory crops, and the cause of
failure in certainly seven cases out of ten will be
found to be due to this cause. A successful Grape-
grower ought to know, and does know, as much,
or more, about the condition of the roots of his
Vines than he does about the Vines themselves.

Your correspondent's Vines are old, and he finds
out that the roots are deeply buried (a matter of
about three feet, he thinks), and this has been
done bv annual top-dressings over a series of years
without taking little or any of the old top-dressings
off before adding the new. A gardener friend advises
him to root out the old Vines and plant new ones.
There are certain objections to this, and I do not
think it is necessary. One is that the owner
is only tenant for life. Other reasons are the
extra expense entailed and the loss of a full crop
for at least three or four years ; moreover, there
is a certain loss of quality in the flavour of the
Grapes, as it is well knowii that old Vines produce
Grapes of much richer quality and flavour than
do young ones, and this cotmts for much with
those who value quality of flavour more than mere
size of bunch and berry.

The treatment I recommend your correspondent
to adopt is the following, and I am confident he
will not regret doing so provided the work is well
and carefully carried out. Before anything is
done to the border, let the new Vine compost
in which the roots are to be replanted be got
ready, so that there will be no imdue exposure of
the roots while the work is in progress. This
compost should consist of the following items,
and there should be as much of it prepared as will
give a dressing over all the roots to the depth of

5 inches, not including that under the roots. The
size of the border to dress will determine the
quantity of soil required. To one cartload of
turfy loam from an old pasture field (cutting off
the grass as close as possible — the turves should
not be cut deeper than 4 inches) add two barrow-
loads of old brick ends broken to the size of hens'
eggs. Add the same quantity of old mortar rubble,
broken in the same way, also a bushel of quarter-
inch bones, half a bushel of bone-meal, one bushel
of lime and half a bushel of soot. Mix up well
together, and lay by in a heap in a dry place ready
for the time when it is wanted. The chief essential
necessary in such a compost is the provision of
conditions favourable for the formation of abund-
ance of new roots — ^not so much rich soil for
nourishing the roots. This can be added after-
wards in the way of liquid manures.

Treatment of the Border. — Clear away all the

surfai e soil nl the border (no matter how much
of it there may be) until a good body of roots is
come to. Expose all these to within, say, 4 feet
of the stems of the Vines. E.xamine every root.
.^11 those which are found diseased or cankered
should be cut back to a healthy part. AH long
and tibreless roots should be shortened to within
5 feet of the base of the Vine stem, and all the tip
ends of the smaller roots also should be cut back.
Clear away the old soil from under these roots
to the foimdation and drainage of the border.
This latter must be efficient, and probably is.
(If the subsoil is gravel or some other open
material through which water passes freely, no
concrete or other material is wanted for the bottom
of the border.) Put down a layer of the roughest
parts of the compost under the roots with some
small on top, and bed the roots (after they have
been pruned) in the compost, adding more until
the roots have been buried 5 inches deep. Tread
the compost down firmly. The surface of the border
from top to bottom should have a fall of 4 inches.

I mentioned in the foregoing that the roots of
the Vines should not be disturbed within 4 feet
of the stem of the Vines ; but that is not to say
that the old top soil down to a body of roots should
not be removed. It should be, and a layer of the
new compost laid over these roots to the depth
of 5 inches ; but the roots themselves in this part
should not be disturbed. In your correspondent's
case the roots are practically all inside, and he
need not trouble about the recently added outside
border this year ; but in a couple of years' time
it will pay him to serve this in the same way.

.\s soon as the top-dressing is finished, the border
should have a good .watering with clear water
to settle the soil over the Vine roots. The border
should at the same time be covered over with
fresh leaves to the depth of 6 inches. Clean, dry
straw will do if leaves are not available. Let this
remain on imtil the end of April, when it should
be removed and a mulchuig of short, well-decayed
manure substituted for it. The border should also
at this time have its first soaking of water. Towards
June he will find the new soil will be filling with
young roots. These may then be fed with liquid
manure, applied once a fortnight or three weeks,
according to whether the weather is dr>' or the
reverse.

A Word as to the Treatment of the Vines. —

Do not force them into growth in spring, but let
growth come on slowly and in a natural way,
without any artificial heat to speak of in the day-
time, but a little must be provided at night. Let
the Vines carry a light crop for the first year.
They will carry a full crop the second year. O. T.

556

THE GARDEN.

November i, 1913.

NURSERY NOTES.

MESSRS. W. SEABROOK AND SONS.

IT was a great pleasure for us to visit the
nurseries of Messrs. W. Seabrook and Sons
at Chelmsford on a gloriously sunny day
early in October, after a lapse of some
fourteen years. Naturally, we were pre-
pared to see some changes, but hardly
anticipated the wonderful strides that the firm
has made during that time. The nurseries as
we used to know them comprised about twenty
acres ; but so rapid has been the increase of business
that now well-nigh a himdred acres are needed to
meet the demands of the firm's customers, and
several other large fields of good virgin soil are
ear-marked for future developments that are certain
to accrue so long as the business is conducted on
tlie same up-to-date lines that now prevail.

The senior partner of the firm, Mr. W. Seabrook,
who is well over sixty years of age, has devoted
a strenuous life to the study of fruit-growing and
the raising of fruit trees, and was one of the pioneers
ef the cordon system, planting large plots with
this class of tree before other market-growers had
scarcely heard of them. Bush trees on dwarfing
stocks, too, he long ago saw the possibilities of,
but he also realised that to secure the best results
from them, and to induce them to crop at an
early age, particularly such varieties of Apples as
Cox's Orange Pippin and Blenheim Orange, more
than usual care was necessary in the selection of
the stocks on which they were budded or grafted.
With this end in view he started experimenting,
and the result is that nowhere hardly in the country
is Cox's Orange Pippin gro%vn better than it is
here. At the Boreham nurseries, some three miles
out of Chelmsford and alongside the ancient
Roman road from London to Colchester, both
market fruit and young fruit trees for stocking
orchards and gardens are grown, so that the
wi.iuld-be purchaser can see how the young trees
thrive and crop on the stocks which the firm uses,
and which have been selected as a result of many
years' experience. In one field we were particu-
larly interested in some ten acres of five year old
bush trees of Cox's Orange Pippin. Every tree
was carrj'ing a really wonderful crop of fruit, in
some instances as much as half a bushel, and
when we remember that the market value of
these is just now about £i a bushel, the value of
trees on the proper stock will be patent to all.
Every other kind of Apple. Pear and Plum for
which there is a demand is worked on stocks that
have been found most suitable, hence customers
may rely on getting trees from this source that
will do well when planted, and give quick and
bounteous returns- in the way of truit. To give
readers some idea of the demand that there is for
these trees, we may mention that we saw no fewer
than 250,000 Apple stocks that had been either
budded or grafted this year, and these will be
trained into cordons, espaliers, bush, pyramid,
standard or half-standard trees, according to their
suitability and the demand that arises for them.
Planted in long rows of ample width, it is a com-
paratively easy matter to keep the soil well tilled
with horse-drawn implements, and scarcely a
weed could be found among any of the nursery
stock. What was of even greater moment to
prospective purchasers, however, was the entire
absence of disease and American blight. We were
careful to keep a sharp look-out for serious pests of
this kind, but thev were not to be found.

In another large field we were particularly in-
terested in some twenty thousand Black Currant
bushes that have been planted out as a permanent
crop. As most of our readers are aware, the curse of
Black Currants in late years has been the big-bud
mite, a pest that has caused many thousands of
poimds' worth of damage to fruit plantations in all
parts of the country. The variety which Messrs.
Seabrook have planted so extensively is named Sea-
brook's Black. Although cultivated by the firm
for market purposes for at least thirty years,
bushes have not, previous to this year, been offered
for sale. During the whole of that thirty years
Messrs. Seabrook had never knovra it to be attacked
by big-bud mite, possibly due, they thought, to the
fact that they had not grown any other variety
attacked by the pest near it. However, seven
years ago it was suggested to them that it might
prove immune, and to test it the firm arranged for
a good number of bushes to be planted in another
grower's field, between mite-infested bushes and in
the very soil whence Baldwin's, badly attacked
by the pest, had been grubbed. Each year a report
has been made, and each year it has been to the
effect that Seabrook's Black is quite free of the
pest. Certainly there was not a trace of it when
we saw the bushes and nursery stock, and as it
is a vigorous grower, free cropper and of good
quality, it should prove of great value to amateurs,
professional gardeners and market-growers alike.

In addition to all kinds of fruit trees, the firm has,
in recent years, taken up^the raising of Roses,
and this branch of the business is increasing as
rapidly as the fruit tree section. At the time of our
visit we noticed good healthy stocks of all the best
bush, Polyantha, standard, weeping standard and
Rambler varieties, and, were space at our disposal,
much might be said about these. We left the
nurseries, after a most enjoyable and interesting
day, convinced that those of our readers who require
fruit trees or Roses can with every confidence place
their orders with this business-like and up-to-date
firm.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— rA<? Editor intend}^ to
make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist,
ance, no matter iihat the hranck of gardening may be, and
tifith that object will make a special feMure of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communicatiojis should be
clearly and concisely ivritten on one side of the paper only^
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Corent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required- in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. Wlien more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the PUBLISHER.

FLOWER GARDEN.

ROMNEYA AND CARNATION ( /. C. H.).—1d your
locality you might lilt and divide the Komueya at once,
detaching any of the long or extending roots, and, cutting
them into sections an inch or more long, start them to
grow in the greenhouse. If the soil of your Carnation
border is infested by eelwoim, it is highly probable that
the plants also are infested, in which case new stock would
be required. Had you sent us some of the failing plants,
we could have decided the point for you. Are you sure
the soil is free of wireworm — the worst of all soil pests
to the Carnation ? Apterite and Soilfume are two
of the soil fumigants that may be applied according to
instructions. These destroy many of the pests common
to garden soils. In your case the addition of linu' or lias

clay to the border would be of the utmost value, since
the Carnation is not usually a permanent success in very
sandy soils.

HARDY BORDER CHRYSANTHEMUMS {E. L. C. F.).^
The cultural details required for the above are simple
enough, and, aa a rule, a bed of moderately rich loamy
soil deeply worked and manured suffices. In many dis-
tricts the plants perish in winter-time, not because lacking
hardiness generally, but because they are kept soft and.
evergreen and in a growing state far into the winter months,
when they should be resting. In these circumstances it
ia best to root cuttings afresh, February and March
being a good time, planting them out in April or
early May. For this purpose lift a plant of each variety
in November, and protect in a frame till required. When
the fresh young shoots are about two inches long, these may
be used as cuttings. The following are useful and free-
flowering : Carrie and Horace Martin, yellow ; Crimson
Polly and Goacher^ Crimson, crimson ; Crimson Marie
Massfi, bronze crimson ; Nina Blick, reddish bronze ;
Caledonia and White Mass^, whites ; Perle Rose ; Im-
proved Mass6, rosy lilac ; Hector, mauve and pink ;
Flora, yellow ; Mme. E. Lefort, orange ; and La Luxem-
bourg, bronze. The last three named are free-flowering
Pompons, and these are usually of the hardiest class.

SLUG-PROOF PLANTS {R. 0.).~By your request
for herbaceous plants quite immune from the attacks of
slugs you have set us rather a formidable task. It is
true that this pest may have a special fondness for certain
groups of plants, but with a garden free of these it is more
than likely that attention might be directed to other
plants previously ignored. You appear to realise that
the adjacent hedges are infested by the pest, though
you are adopting no measure to trap him there. We
think, however, were you to lay down slates, boards,
or damp sacks near the hedges and examine them twice
a week, you would get some surprising hauls. Or you
might heavily dust the base of the hedgerows with lime
or treat it with Vaporite, and, having by these means
ridded your garden of the pest, set out to enjoy not what
the sluiis rejected, but all the best a garden should'con-
tain. In the meantime you might experiment by trying
such things as Hepaticas, Christmas Hoses, a large number
of Flag Irises, PotentiUas, the rather important race of
white aiarguerites, Chrysanthemum maximum and
varieties, herbaceous Phloxes, Pentstemon barbatus,
Oriental and other Poppies, Aconitums, Heleniums
generally, Helianthus or Sunflower, Achillea Ptarmica
and its varieties, Lenten Roses, Anchusa Dropmore
variety. Columbines and Michaelmas Daisies. The young
shoots of such plants as Campanula, Delphinium. Pyre-
thrum and all the Pink tribe are greedily devoured, bv
the shig, while not infrequently the flowers of many
plants whose leaves are unattackcd are cleared off whole-
sale. Hence it would appear Miat in a land of plenty,
only tlie choicest morsels are selected, though with any
signs of scarceness it takes what it can get. Plants
containing i)olson, or otheis whos*^ juices arc of a decidedly
acid ji:Lturi', iiia\' In- objected to for these reasons.

HERBACEOUS PLANTS FOR TOWN GARDEN (In-
terested).— There is such a weulth of subjects flowering in July
and August that we think quite the best thiniz for you to do
would be to purchase " The Hardy Flower Book," by
E. n. Jenkins, to be had, post free, from our Publishing
Department, for 2s. lOd. This invaluable book gives
rather complete lists of all the best herbaceous plants,
together with their height, colour, time of flowering
and otlier things, with much other information of supreme
importance to those who garden chiefly in the open air.
T» have a border effective over a long'.period, plantings
of Irises to flower in May, June and July should be made.
to be followed by Pyreth'rums. single and double in variety,
hybrid Columbines, Achilleas, a good selection of Del-
phiniums, Gaillardias, Pseonies, Oriental Poppies in
variety, Heucheras of sorts, Monarda, Lychnis chalcedonica,
and siich like. For July and August the best things would
be herbaceous Phloxes, Sunflowers, Campanida c-arpatica
in half-a-dozen sorts, Scabiosa caucasica, Eryngium,
Echinops, Ked-hot Pokers, Aster Amellus in variety,
A. ericoides, and a good set of Michaelmas Daisies. Such
good and useful Lilies as umbellatimi, croceum, excelsum,.
candidum, and the forms of speciosum should also find
place, also Montbretias, which are so effective and graceful
when in flower. For borders 6 feet wide it would be a
good plan to arrange the plants in groups, say, not less
than three plants to a group, three lines of groups alter-
nately disposed being sufficient for the width named.
The list of flowering shrubs to wliich you refer is of a
somewhat mixed character, some plants being quite
unsuitable to the border. If, however, you send us particu-
lars of the width and length of the border, we will give
you a suitable list of shrubs for it. With suitable shrubs
might be associated Lilies, Irises, Daffodils and other
plants to flower at varying seasons of the year.

THE GREENHOUSE.

TREATMENT OF DRACvENA AUSTRALIS {Old
Reader). — Vour plant of Draca-na australis, whose correct
name, by the way, is Cordyline australis, is not likely to
survive the winter in the open ground. By far the better
way will be to winter it in a cool room where it is safe from
frost .

FERN FRONDS DISFIGURED (Old Reader). —There
ATI'. Ixith thrips and scale on the Fern fronds sent. Thrips
can be readily kept under by vaporising with om-
of the nicotine compounds, but for the scale the fronds
must be sponged with a solution of soft soap and water,
at the same time loosening the largest of the scales with
a pointed stick. In carrying this out, care must be taken
not to injure the fronds.

i^fe^

^^r^—

GARDEN.

■"^©3=:^"

No. 2190.— Vol. LXXVII.

November 8, 1913.

CONTENTS.

notus of the week
Correspondence

Prizes for front gar-
dens

Mildew on Roses . .

The war on wasps. .

A good Bprins bed . .
Forthcoming events..

How TO Treat Grass

Banks

Trees and SHRrBs

Clerodendron f O'tidum

A rare Chines^r Horn-
beam

Spirsea Aitchisonii . .
Rose Garden

Rosc-<rrowipj» in town
tzardens

Roses in the wild
garden

In a Hampshire par-
den

Flower Garden

Flower borders at
Arapney Park,
Cirencester . .

The Campanulas or
Belltlowers . . . .

j Coloured Plate

I Hardy brrder Car-

I nations . . . . 563

Greenhouse
Early Tulips in pots 563
The amateur's green-

. house in autumn 564
Primula La Lorraine 564

Gardening for Beginners
How to force Lily of
the Valley and
flower roots . . 565

Gardening op the Week
For Southein gar-
dens 566

For Northern gar-
dens 5'i6

560
561
561

56::

562

Kitchen Garden
Seasonable notes on

vegetables . . . . 567
Answers to Corre-
spondents

Flower garden .. 56T

Trees and shrubs . . 567

Fruit garden . . . . 567

Miscellaneous . . 567

Societies 568

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Nerine Bowdeni flowering at Gunnersbury . . . . 55S

Clerodendron foetidum 560

Spirsea Aitchisonii 560

An informal bank of Rose Alberic Barbier . . . . 561

Borders of hardy fowers in a Gloucestershire garden 562

Hardy border Carnations Coloured plate

A delightful BellHower : Campanula persicifolia

humosa 563

The new Primula La Lorraine 564

How to force Lily of the Valley and flower roots.. 565

BDITORIAIi NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor I'^elcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he u-ill not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, hoivever, tcill be taken, and tvhere Harnps
are enclosed, he )vill ejidea'-otir to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the ax:tual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright uil! be treated with.

The Editor wiU not be responsible lor the return of artistiv
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use. and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidejice that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices ■ 20. Tavistock Street. Corcnt (iard''n. W.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

To Our Readers. — It is with ple£isiue that we
are able to announce that Mr. George Dillistone,
the talented landscape gardener on the staff of
Messrs. R. Wallace and Co., has kindly con-
sented to write us a series of articles on the
construction of rock gardens. These will be
illustrated by sketch plans of rock gardens
actually constructed under Mr. Dillistone's super-
vision, and photographs showing the work when
completed. To those interested in rock gardens
these articles will prove of more than usual interest,
and we trust our readers will make them as widely
known as possible. We hope to publish the first
in our ne.\t issue.

Preparation for Spring Bedding. — Although in

some places the summer bedding is still looking
little the worse for wear, such beds or borders
should now be cleared if it is intended to fill them
with spring bedding plants. It is important that
Wallflowers, Forget-me-nots, Alyssums, Primulas
and similar plants should be put out before the
ground gets cold, so that they may become estab-
lished, as it greatly assists them to stand the winter.

Bananas Fruiting at Kew. — When at Kew
Gardens most visitors make a point of seeing the
Bananas growing in the great Palm House. These
are of more than usual interest at present, as three
of the plants are maturing large bunches of fruits
and two other plants are in flower. The largest
bimches are forms or varieties of Musa sapientum,
Gros Michel and Lacatan. Growing to about
thirty feet high, the foliage of the Bananas is
always an imposing feature of the Palm House.

Cutting Winter Cherry for Decoration. —
Where the Winter Cherry, or Physalis, is
grown for winter decoration for vases, it should
now be cut, if this has not already been done,
as the bladders will commence to perish if left
out in the open much longer. Cut the shoots,
tie them in small bimches, and hang them in i dry
place, where the leaves which are now ripe will
soon drop off, leaving the stems of bright-coloured
bladders, which are so valuable either alone or
mixed with other dried flowers.

A Beautiful Greenhouse Plant. — A plant that

has recently come to the front, although by no
means new, is Lindenbergia grandiflora. It is a
most valuable plant for the greenhouse with its
bright yellow. Musk-shaped flowers, which are borne
in profusion, and last in bloom for about three
months. A well-grown batch of this desirable
plant, mixed with the beautiful Salvia azurea, is
one of the chief features of the conservator)' at
the Botanic Gardens, Cambridge. ?.t the present
time, where it is greatly admired. It is of easy
cultivation under greenhouse treatment, but
requires a little shade during the summer. The
sprays last for a considerable time when cut and
placed in water, but the colour does not show up
to advantage imder artificial light.

Blue Salvias Flowering Late. — These plants
have been a great success in the garden this year.
The season has evidently been such as to induce
healthy growth of medium strength ; the plants
are, in most instances, dwarf and very freely
flowered In several gardens we have lately noticed
grand displays of blossom, and it seemed a pity
to disturb the plants, yet it was becoming neces-
sary work, as nearly all the other kinds of bedding-
out subjects had lost their freshness, and all must
give place to the spring-flowering ones.

Autumn-Flowering Bulbs. — Few plants are
more valuable than the Stembergias. Whether it
is in the rockery, borders, or on the edge of shrub-
beries, they brighten it up with their beautiful
yellow, Crocus-like flowers at this season. Stem-
bergia lutea and its variety angustifolia are
two of the best, being very free-flowering and soon
establishing themselves ; but S. macrantha, with its
larger flowers, which are a beautiful golden yellow,
should on no accoimt be left out. Most of the
Stembergias are very suitable for conservatory
decoration when grown in deep pans or pots.

Mr. Hugh Dickson. — On the next page we have
pleasure in publishing a portrait of Mr. Hugh
Dickson, president of the National Sweet Pea
Society for 1913-14. Mr. Dickson is a member
of the firm of Messrs. .Alexander Dickson and Sons
of Newtownards, managing with considerable skill
their seed and bulb business at Belfast. He is
one of the best-known men in the horticultural
trade, and his quiet, unobtrusive manner has
endeared him to all who have had the pleasure of
meeting him. The National Sweet Pea Society is
to be congratulated on its selection of Mr. Dickson
as president.

Strawberries in November. — We were much
interested a few days ago when visiting a Dulwich
garden to observe a bed of Strawberries still carrying
a presentable crop of ripening fruits. The variety
was St. .^ntoine de Padoue, one of the best of the
hybrid autunmal Strawberries. The flower-buds
had been removed from the plants until early in
September, when the fruits were allowed to mature.
The berries are globular and of bright red colour,
while the plants are as vigorous as the summer-
fruiting varieties. The bed in question is in a
sheltered spot on a warm border, and the plants
each autumn bear freely until the frosts set in.

Storing Lobelias for the Winter. — Lobelia

fulgens, L. cardinalis and others of that type
cannot always be relied upon to stand the wijiter
outside. They should now be lifted, placed in
boxes in sandy soil, and stored in a fairly dry
place, not necessarily a greenhouse, but a certain
amount of light is preferable to a dark shed.
Although it is important that they should be kept
from excessive wet, it is also important that they
should not be allowed to get too dry. They can
be easily increased by dividing the plants in the
spring, or seed sown now will make better plants
for putting out next summer than those raised
from seed next spring.

558

THE GARDEN.

[November 8, 1913.

iThe

CORRESPONDENCE.

Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Prizes for Front Gardens.— The village in
which I live is not at all beautiful, and most of
the gardens arc neglected or unattractive. By
way of encouraging the inhabitants to interest
themselves in beautifying the village, I think of
oflermg three prizes for the gardens and house
fronts which are kept most satisfactorily all the
year round. Some of your contributors must
have sympathy with, and practical experience in,
such a scheme, and I shall be most grateful if
I may be allowed to benefit by that sympathy
and experience in the framing of rules which
will give all the competitors a fair chance.—
Marguerite.

Is the Almond Hardy in Scotland?— At a
meeting of the Scottish Horticultural Association,
held some months ago, when the merits of orna-
mental trees and shrubs suited for villa gardens
were being discussed, several members testified
that the Almond is not hardy in the neighbourhood
of Edinburgh. As the Almond is such a desirable
subject, both on account of its beauty and its
early flowering, it would be mteresting and
instructive if readers of The Garden North
of the Tweed who have grown, or attempted
to grow, it would give their fellow-readers the
benefit of their experience, indicating the dis-
trict where such experience has been gained. —
Caledonia.

Gentiana verna Flowering Late.— I have
been much interested by Mr. Malby's notes on
Gentiana verna in last week's issue, page 548.
I should be glad to hear from him or any of your
readers whether it is common for this plant to
bloom twice in the year. Durhig September and
October of this year I have had eight flowers on
a small patch of the Gentian, which bloomed
fairly freely in the spring, and there is a flower
just opening on a plant which I bought as G.
angulosa, though I can detect little or no differ-
ence between it and G. verna. One regards this
Gentian as so essentially a spring-flowering plant
that it is surprising to find it in bloom so late
in the year. G. verna is growing m sandy
loam in a rather shady, moist place, while G.
angulosa is in sandstone moraine fully open to
the sun. — A. E. Backhouse, Darlington.

Alpines Flowering in October.— Reading your
list of alpine and rockery plants in bloom on
October i in your issue for October 18, page 525,
tempts me to send you a list of plants from a small
garden 200 feet by 30 feet in the North-West, all in
the open : Alyssimx sinuatum, yellow ; Antirrhinum
gibraltaricum, reddish ; Arabis albida flore pleno,
white ; Astrantia gracilis, white ; Borago laxi-
flora, pale blue ; Campanula Burghaltii, blue-
white ; C. carpatica, blue ; C. garganica, pale
blue ; C. glomerata hybrid, deep blue ; C. muralis,
blue ; C. rotimdifolia, blue and white ; Cardamine
rotundifolia, white ; Chrysogonum virginiatum,
yellow ; Cimicifuga simplex, white ; Corydalis
lutea alba, whitish yellow ; Colchicums, Crocuses,
Cyclamen ; Dianthus, various ; Erica Serlei, white ;
E. stricta, pink ; E. vagans, white ; Erigeron
glauca, lavender ; Erodium Manescavi, red-mauve ;
Erysimum pulchellum, yellow ; Geranium Endressii,
pink ; G. sanguineum, red ; G. striatum, pink
veined ; Geum rivale Leonard's variety, red ;
G. r. Orange, Gypsophila Steveni, white ;

Helianthemums (various), pink-yellow ; Hyperi-
cum olympicum and H. empetrifolium, yellow ',
Linaria aequitriloba, purple ; L. alpina rosea,
rosy ; L. anticaria, white and yellow ; L. pilosa,
purple ; Linum, blue ; Lysimachia Henryi, yellow ;
Menziesia polifolia, rosy white ; Nepeta Mussinii
(two forms), lavender and bluish ; Origanum
hybridum, pinkish ; Oxalis floribunda, pink ;
O. f. alba, white ; Potentilla alpina, white ; P.
hopwoodiana, P. Miss Willmott, P. minima;
Perowskia atriplexifolia, lavender ; Plumbago
Larpent2B, slaty blue ; Polygala Chamabuxus
purpurea ; Polygonum affine, reddish ; Santolina
Chamsecyparissus, yellow ; S. pinnata, creamy
wliite ; Saxifraga Fortunei, white ; Scabiosa
pterocephala, pale lavender ; Sedum calabricum,
pinkish ; S. Ewersii, pinkish ; S. pulchellum,
pinkish ; S. spectabile, pink and deep

MR. HUGH DICKSON, PRESIDENT OF THE
NATIONAL SWEET PEA SOCIETY
FOR 1913-I4. {See previous page.)

Teucrium Chameedrys, reddish ; Tunica Saxi-
fraga, pink ; T. S. alba ; Veronica corymbosa,
deep blue ; V. spicata alba, Vinca Double Blue ;
Violas Bowles' Black, Mrs. Bowles and bosniaca ;
and Zauschneria, red. Of those mentioned I would
specially draw your attention to the following :
Alyssum sinuatum, yellow, which has been in
bloom since June. Astrantia gracilis, white,
similar to, but much fijier than, A. minor. Carda-
mine rotundifolia, white, an old plant, but very
fine in early spring. Corydalis lutea, the pale form,
is in flower almost all the year round. Plumbago
Larpentae, blue. This plant is fine with the crimson
foliage in autumn, grown in the warmest possible
position. Veronica corymbosa, deep blue, so named
by Mr. S. Arnott, is only 6 inches high, and a choice
gem for late flowering. Viola Mrs. Bowles,

lavender blue, a most continuous flowerer. The
flowers stand up well clear of the foliage. Zausch-
neria.—I have two forms. The early-blooming
one is not so woolly as the other. — T. O. Walker,
Carnforth.

The Persian Cyclamen as a Biennial. — Mr.
Blair's experience with two years old Cyclamen (see
page 536, October 23 issue) differs in several respects
so much from my experience, and I have no doubt
also from that of other growers, that in fairness to
those whose knowledge of the plant is slight, some-
thing should be put forward in favour of these. The
treatment of second- year plants varies so consider-
ably, and yet may result in each case in success, that
one is forced to conclude that the treatment given
by your correspondent has in some particulars been
incorrect, the more so if the plants are " easily
beaten " by young plants. Ours receive no special
culture as regards soil and manure from that given
to the usual run of soft-wooded plants, only being
treated to a warm temperature while growing, and
the difference is all in their favour. I have just
measured a few of the largest specimens, which are
each 2 feet 3 inches across, and from each I enclose
a leaf for your inspection. The flowers are not yet
out, but I expect them to be quite as large as those
produced by the younger plants, one of which gave
us last year's flowers up to 6 inches in diameter, and
another, a ragged double, almost as large. I may
add that Cyclamens succeed best here grown on as
stove plants, in a low pit, along with table Crotons
and Dracaenas. In the autumn they are transferred
to a cooler pit along with Primulas and Geraniums
to flower. I differ only in these respects from Mr.
Blair, and concur with him in advising the more
general cultivation of these charming flowers, so
very useful for cutting, and the plants for massing
in the house. — R. P. Brotherston, Preston-
kirk, N.B.

I quite agree with Mr. Blair that it is best

to grow the Cyclamen as a biennial. We grow it
here on that principle, with very good results, and
never think of saving any old corms. We sow
our seeds about the third week in July, placmg them
straight away in a cold frame. About the first
week in September we place them in a temperature
of 50°, and by the second week in October prick
them off into 2-inch pots. We believe in pricking
off early, as we find we get much larger plants. Of
course, extra care is required in watering to keep the
soil from becoming sour. We then place them in a
temperature of 60°, keeping them close to the glass.
In this position we keep them until about the first
week in February, when they will be found to have
filled their pots with roots and made about eight
or nine leaves. We then pot them into 4-inch and
4i-inch pots, according to strength, keeping them
still in a temperature of 60°. About the first week
in June we pot them into 6-inch pots, placing them
straight into a cold frame. They remain there
until the first week in September ; then we house
them, as it is desirable for us to have a numOer of
them in bloom by the first week in November.
They continue to bloom until the end of Apiil.
What more does one want than to have them in
bloom for six months ? In February of this year
we had one plant carrying seventy-one fully-
expanded blooms, and still showing more buds.
Some of the blooms had six and seven petals, and
measured 6 inches from tip to tip. We had several
plants with forty, fiity, sixty and sixty-five blooms ;
so who says it is impossible to have fine plants by
this method ? We have them now carrying fourteen
to eighteen blooms. — F. C. Willie, The Gardens,
Great Walstead, Lindfield. Sussex

November 8, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

559

kRose Peace. — I wundcr if " G. G." (on page 534)
alluding tu the Tea-scented variety ? I assume
is, as I am not aware that there are two varie-
s of the same name. I find this an excellent
Rose for outdoors, plants of dwarf growth flowering
•iliimdantly, with huge petals of a pale citron
■ I Jour, whieh imder glass would be paler in tint. —

Mildew on Roses. — Many complaints have

reached me this year as to the extent Roses have

lieen attacked by mildew. Even whole localities

have been vigorously infested, after much washing

of the plants with sulphide of potassium had

been done, with no effect of value. .■Vs a rule,

, in other years this chemical has been efficacious ;

this year in many gardens it has been quite useless.

I have at last come across a distinctly effective

remedy for this troublesome fungus, viz.. Serum,

prepared and sent out by Messrs. Gleeson and

j Co., Watford. Whatever it contains, it is wonder-

j fully effective. Early in October many of my

I plants were badly attacked by mildew. I

I applied Serum as directed, 20Z. to a gallon of
cold soft water, well stirred, thoroughly drenching
the plants. The result was marvellous. New leaves
commenced to grow from the points of badly-
infested shoots within two days, and the plants
have continued quite free from fungus. Such a
remedy is indeed a boon to Rose-growers. — E. M.

The War on Wasps. — In your issue of October 25,
page >;,14. y"""" correspondent Mr. Copeland seeks
information from fellow-readers of The Garden
of their methods in catching queen wasps. My own
method is to watch the Gooseberry bushes in the
spring when they are in bloom, for, on the queens
waking up from their winter's sleep, they seem
attracted to the Gooseberry bloom to feed before
commencing nest-building. If while walking past
the bushes queens are seen, keep an eye on them till
they settle on a bloom, when they may generally
be knocked down and killed ; or by pulling a piece
of elastic tight and letting one end go with a slash
at them it will often kill them while they are busy
getting nectar from a flower. In this way, if the
bushes, are often looked at, great numbers may
be killed where they are plentiful. Also in the
autumn keep a sharp look-out in all kinds o'
buildings, outhouses, or even dwelling-houses,
f»r the queens get in all sorts of places under cover
for their winter's sleep. — S. K.

In response to your invitation on page 534.

issue October 25, I enclose the following, for the
damage done to fruit by these pests, especially
during a dry season like the past summer has
been, certainly calls for some really well-organised
plan of destruction. We have destroyed con-
siderably over a hundred nests with cyanide
in and around the garden here, and in many were
quantities of young queens ; but, notwithstanding
that, great damage has been done. In reply to
questions asked by Mr. Copeland, (i) I would
suggest that in large fruit-growing areas the growers
themselves combine and award a substantial
prize for the greatest number of queen wasps sent
in by a certain date (e.g., early in June) ; and
in places where fruit is not grown on such a large
scale, the local horticultural societies might adopt
the same plan. The latter is already carried out
in some places, and though only on a very moderate
scale, the results must indeed be a gain in those
particular districts. In gardens (private or other-
wise) remuneration should be given for all queen
wasps killed by members of the staff, for money
so spent would unquestionably be well laid out.
With the growing popularity in school gardening.

managers or local authorities could perhaps b"
persuaded to award prizes to the children for the
greatest number of these pests caught. A case
in which the children figured in this way came
under the writer's notice some time ago. A
horticultural society in Berkshire offered a small
prize for the greatest number of queen wasps
sent in by a certain date by any child in the district.
The winner of the first prize had captured between
five and six hundred, to say nothing of the other
entrants ! Such results as these surely speak for
themselves. (2) As regards queen wasps entering
bottles, very few indeed were caught here during
the summer, either in bottles or other traps. The
spring and autumn, of course, are the best times
to capture queens, i.e., when they are searching
for places or material for nesting, or when they
are preparing to hibernate, such presumably
being the case when so many were recently caught
in a stokehole, for such places as potting-sheds
and stokeholes are ideal for the purpose. (3) .'V
good trap can be made by the use of two hand-
lights, one resting on the other, the lower one
raised from the ground on bricks and having
holes in the lid to enable the wasps to pass through
to the upper light (which must be hole-proof).
To entice the pests to enter, portions of fruit are
placed under the lower light, and more is put
in the upper one, to which they will naturally
ascend. To destroy the insects when a large
number are captured, sulphur is placed below
and set alight, the fumes rising and having the
desired effect. Several such traps have been used
here this summer, with great success. — H. Turner,
Serlby Gardens. Bawtry.

A Good Spring Bed. — One of the most simple,
and at the same tune one of the most pleasing,
spring beds which it has been my privilege to plant
was composed of the following subjects : Golden
Polyanthuses were used to form a thick carpet,
the plants being placed thickly so that the outer
leaves completely covered the soil. Between the
Polyanthus roots the scarlet Tulip Artus was
used. The bulbs of this Tulip always come to
hand in excellent condition, and it is an ideal
variety for bedding purposes. The great thing
in planting bulbs is to make sure that they are
resting on the soil at the bottom of the hole, and
also that they are planted at an even depth, thereby
ensuring an even display of flowers. The Poly-
anthuses can be raised from seed sown in pans in
May, and afterwards transplanted in a shady position
until the beds are ready.' They may also be
increased by division. A fresh stock from seed is,
however, preferable in most cases. — Colin Ruse,
SuUuimstead.

HOW TO TREAT GRASS
BANKS.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

Novemb?r 10. — United Horticultural Benefit
and Provident Society's Meeting.

November 11. — Shows at Belfast (two days)
and Biimingham (three days).

November 12. — East Anglian Horticultural Club's
Meeting. Shows at Buxton, Gainsborough (two
days), Faversham (two days) and Dulwich (two
days).

November 13. — Shows at Nottingham (three
days), Sheffield (three days), Romford, Newport
(Monmouth), and Scottish Horticultural Associa-
tion's Show (three days).

November 14. — Leeds Paxton Show (two days).
Shows at Rochdale (two days), Huddersfield (two
days) and Bradford (two days).

November 15. — Sliows at Burton-on-Trent and
Batley.

IT is well within the memory of all who garden
for pleasure that in their heyday grass
banks formed a notable feature in garden
design. These were usually introduced
where a transition in level occurred, and
were probably considered the most satis-
factory method of dealing with an awkward situa-
tion. Many objections might be taken to these,
but it will suffice for the present to mention their
lack of interest and their difficulty of upkeep,
which, even under the most favourable conditions,
can never rival a level lawn of close-cut turf.
With the present rage for hardy plants it must
inevitably follow that the space usurped by grass
banks will be coveted for something choicer, and
in reviewing the various methods for beautifying
such a position, the grass bank appears in its true
light and is, after all, only a makeshift. Were
such a bank placed at some distance from the
house, as when it occurs as part of the boundary,
a semi-wild treatment would undoubtedly appeal,
and if massed with Rambler Roses of the wichurai-
ana type and with some regard to the harmonious
arrangement of the colours, such a bank would
become an impressive feature and call for con-
siderably less attention than the weekly ordeal
of mowing grass. If the space is too restricted
for Roses of this class, the bank may still be
rendered more interesting by introducing hardy
bulbs — Daffodils, Muscari Heavenly Blue, Anemone
apennina, Chionodo.xas, Scillas — and with .\utumn
Crocuses and Colchicums a moderately long season
of flowers would result. The grass can be mown
at least once in the interval between the flowering
of the spring and autumn bulbs.

When banks arise close to the house, it is
often more feasible to support them with
walls, and so throw the groimd into well-
ordered terraces. A scheme of this character
offers great inducement to the ardent horticul-
turist, tor with the wall built in mortar, either
with or without the accessory balustrade,
opportunity is presented for clothing the same
with the finest types of Roses, climbing plants
and half-hardy shrubs. Such a wall will foster
only subjects that we have difficulty in cultivating
in the open, or whose beauty can only be seen
to advantage when given the support and shelter
of a wall. Walls of this character can also be
profitably utilised by the addition of a narrow
border at the foot wherein to plant subjects ol
doubtful hardihood, including Crinuras, Watsonia,
Romneya, Roscoea, Gerbera, Agapanthus moore-
anus. Cushion Iris and Iris stylosa, Tricyrtis hirta
and Antholyza.

It is frequently found desirable to afford a
thorough change in the garden scheme, and in
converting such a bank into a home for hardy
subjects it is well to bear in mind the picturesque
effect of a wall planned and planted on the dry-
wall principle. Nearly any kind of stone answers
this purpose. Soil is used as the binding material,
and into the wall interstices alpine plants are
introduced as the work proceeds, so that where
the wall is built on principles that have the welfare
of the plants at heart, a riot of alpine life and beauty
bursts from the wall face and instinctively a feature
of perennial interest is opened up, and the charm
and beauty of the garden gain immeasurably by
its presence. Thomas Smith.

Coombs Court Gardens, KingstoH-on-Thames.

560

THE GARDEN.

[November 8, 1913

TREES AND SHRUBS.

CLERODENDRON FOtTIDUM.

WHILE most of the members of
the Clerodendron family require
tropical or warm greenhouse
treatment, there are three species,
all natives of the Far East,
which are fairly hardy in this
country. These are C. trichotomum (the Kusagi of
China and Japan), C. Fargesii (a native of China)

CLERODENDRON FCETIDUM.

and the subject of this note, also from China. In
the milder parts of the country C. fcetidum forms
a shrub and flowers freely in the open. In the
London district the stems are cut down to the
ground during most winters, but this only seems
to induce the plants to throw up more vigorous
growths. These are often 3 feet to 4 feet in height,
very sturdy, with large, deep green, glossy leaves
and a terminal head of closely-packed blossoms
4 inches to 5 inches across. The colour of tlie
flowers is bright rosy red. The name fcetidum
is very misleading, for the flowers emit a pleasing
fragrance, and it is only when the stems are cut
or the leaves bruised that the unpleasant smell,
denoted by the name, is perceptible. C. Bungei
is a name by which the plant is sometimes known.
Propagation is readily effected by pieces of the root.
Last winter, when forking through the shrubbery
border where the plants are growing, some of the
roots were broken, and now the surrounding
ground is freely sprinkled with young plants.
The flowers of this shrub are often sent for
naming, owing, no doubt, to the fact that the
plant readily establishes itself and throws up many
suckers from the roots. The fragrance of the
flowers has been likened to that of Honeysuckle. '

A RARE CHINESE HORNBEAM.

(CaRPI.nJUS POI.\\EirRA.)

Among the numerous trees which exploration
in China has brought to light during the last
twenty-five years, few are more interesting to the
arboriculturist than Carpinus polyneura. We are
indebted to Mr. .\ugustine Henry for its intro-
duction, he having sent home seeds from Central
China in 1889. It is a rare tree, about thirty feet
in height, growing on the mountains of Eastern
Szechuan and Western Hupeh. Only one raised
from this sending of seeds is now in cultivation
at Kew. It is now about seventeen feet in height.
The tree flowers and produces fruits almost every
year, but until the autumn of 1912 no mature
seeds were found. .Ajnong a quantity of seeds
collected last autumn and sown in October as
soon as ripe, several have germinated. Though
there are no fruits on the tree this year, we
may reasonably hope that as the specimen
grows, having once produced seeds, the same
thing may be expected again during a favourable
season.

The Chinese Hornbeam is distinguished from
other species of the genus by the comparatively
small and smooth, flat leaves, the Hornbeams
generally being distinguished by the plicate leaves.
The leaves of Carpinus polvneura are not more
than 2i inches long by an inch wide, the only other
species with as small or smaller leaves being C.
orientalis, a native of South-Eastern Europe and
Western .\sia.

SPIR.^A AITCHISONII.

This is one of the best of the tall-growing shrubby
Spiraeas or Meadow-sweets. It is a native of
Afghanistan, and grows about ten feet in height.
The plants make long, arching
growths, which in summer are
clothed with handsome pinnate
leaves up to a foot in length.
The flowering season is July and
.August, when the large bushes
are a pleasing sight with the
large terminal panicles, ' ij feet
to 2 feet long, consisting of
quantities of small, white flowers.
This Spiriea makes a good lawn
specimen, and is also very effec-
tive when massed in large beds
or in the shrubbery border.

Seeds, which ripen freely on
the bushes, form a ready means
of propagation. The plants delight
in a deep, loamy soil, with an
annual mulching of old decayed
manure. By annual pruning in
February or March, the grower
can, to a considerable extent,
restrict the size or otherwise of
the bushes. The growths made
the previous year should be cut
back to within 2 inches or
3 inches of the old wood, unless
it is desired to increase the size
of the bushes, when correspond-
ingly longer growths must be
left. Usually, each year one or
two vigorous growths push up
from the base ; these should be
merely topped, cutting out one or
two of the old stems as they
become exhausted from constant
hard pruning. A. O.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN GARDENS.

IT is unnecessary to point out that, in Rose-
growing, the town gardener is handicapped
beyond his country cousin. He finds this out
for himself with the first Crimson Rambler
he buys. His season begins with the aphis
and ends with the mildew, and all too
frequently he lets it go at that. Now, aphis may
be readily overcome, and even mildew yields to
treatment ; therefore, if he be a true enthusiast, he
will rise superior to these difficulties, though, in
order to do so, he may have to " stoop to conquer "
in a rather too literal sense. The situation of his
Rose beds is an all-important matter to the
suburban grower. Roses delight in an abundance
of air and sunshine, and, if his garden offers many
places whence these can be obtained, he is excep-
tionally fortunate. In any case the best position
for the beds will be towards the north-west corner
of the garden, as far away from the house and walls
or fences as space will permit. Here the plants
will get the fullest benefit from the early morning
sun, and will be sheltered from the north winds.

Soil is, of course, one of the first considerations.
It is generally known that the best rooting medium
for Roses is a heavy maiden loam, with a liberal
admixture of decayed manure. This is the ideal ;
in actual practice most Roses have to put up with
much less. In making up the beds, however, one
must always bear in mind that the main require-
ments of the roots are free drainage, aeration and
a constant supply of moisture. The first two are
obtained by thoroughly trenching the ground, the
last by adding clay where the soil is hght. The town
Rose-grower should import clay when necessary.

SPIR/EA AJTCHISONIl.

November S, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

561

even before manure, yet few seem to trouble !
about doing so. Instead of spending all the money
on his plants, it would pay the gardener much better,
and give infinitely more satisfaction, if he were to
lay out half of it in preparing the ground for
them.

One of the most important elemeiUs of the soil
is lime, and this is frequently deficient in town
gardens. Roses require an ample supply of it, and,
where necessary, it should be added when the beds
are made up. For heavy soils slaked lime is best,
and should be dug in at the rate of half a pound to
the square yard. To light soils add pulverised
chalk in the proportion of 2lb. to the square yard.
Of course, where the subsoil is chalk, no addition o(
lime will be required. The earth with which the
iDwn gardener has to cope, often enough, consists
of old worn-out soil, which previous occupants
have thoughtfully enriched with cinder ashes. The
only way to deal with this is to entirely remove the
top spit, and after the remainder has been dug up
and liberaJly dressed with horse or cow manure
(according to whether it is heavy or light), fresh
loam must be brought in to replace the soil
that was taken away.

Thoroughly trenching;
and manuring the ground
is an actual necessity if
Roses are to be grown
successfully, and it is far
better to make but one
Rose bed properly than
to have several which are
only forked over. The
manure used should
always be in a well-
rotted condition, and it
must be free from shav-
ings or other objection-
• ible material. Horse
manure from tarred roads
should on no account be
used, nor any manure to
which disinfectants have
been added.

Of artilicial manures,
bone-meal is one of the
most useful. It should be
applied, when the ground
is trenched, at the rate of
lib. to every three yards,

and subsequently used as an autumn dressing
combined vrith sulphate of potash. Take three parts
of the bone-meal to one part of potash, sprinkle
a small handful around each tree and fork in lightly.
For early spring a good manure, and one which is
lasting in its effects, is made up as follows ; Super-
phosphate of lime, izlb. ; kainit, lolb. ; Epsom
salts, alb. ; sulphate of iron, lib. ; and plaster of
Paris, 81b. Mix well together and apply a small hand-
ful to each square yard during February or March.

For summer feeding nothing is better than cow-
manure water, well diluted. Soot water is
frequently recommended, but its manurial value is
derived only from a small and varying percentage
of sulphate of ammonia. Since the latter may be
purchased very cheaply, and is cleaner and easier
to handle, it is in every way to be preferred. Half
an oimce to a gallon of water is a safe proportion,
and used thus it is an invaluable stimulant for an
exliibitor, as it adds materially to the size and colour
of the blooms ; but it should only be applied when
plants are in bud, allowing an interval of a week
or more between the applications. In feeding
Roses it must be remembered that stimulants

should be used only on established plants that are
growing freely, and that the ground should always
be in a moist condition before the fertihser is applied.
.Another important point is to vary the diet as
much as possible, and apply it only in a weak
solution. In my next article I will deal with the
principal pests of the town Rose garden.

Thornlon Heiilh. P. L. CIoudard.

ROSES IN THE WILD GARDEN.

Much has been said and written in favour of what
is termed " wild gardening." In some large
private gardens a portion of the grounds, generally
a considerable distance from the mansion or from
the formal garden, is set aside for " natural "
gardening. There are a large number of subjects
suitable for this work, but none so effective as
Roses when allowed to ramble at will. The
common Dog Rose, with its shoots laden with
flowers, also gives a colour effect with its hips
in the autumn. There are many varieties of the
wichuraiana and other types that may be used.
Big clumps of one kind should be planted. Rosa
rugosa is especially suitable wliere cover is wanted

AN IMOK.M.VL BANK OU KOSL ALBtKlC BAKBIliU

for birds, as both pheasants and partridges are
fond of the pulp of the fruit.

Of the early-flowering set we have Alberic
Barbier, Pink Roamer, Jersey Beauty, Leuchtstern
and Blush Rambler, to mention a few. Perhaps
the Austrian Copper and Austrian Yellow are
worthy of special mention, the colouring when
ill bold masses being charming. The Japanese
Roses (Rosa rugosa) also give a variety of colour.
The following are of vigorous growth : Atro-
purpurea, alba, fimbriata, rubra and repens alba.
The latter is of a more graceful habit. Pink
wichuraiana, white wichuraiana, wichuraiana rubra.
Crimson Rambler and Dorothy Perkins are a lew
that give a successive display.

In small gardens there are generally odd corners
or a tree stump which Roses may be made to trail
over. A few varieties that do well anywhere
are Dimdee Rambler, Virginia Rambler, Felicit6
Perpetue, Flora, Longworth Rambler and Thalia.
For forming hedges or covering unsightly hedges
nothing equals the Penzance Briars, of which there
are several good varieties. The flowers are followed
by large quantities of scarlet hips. A. J. H.

IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.

SO.ME OF THE NEWER RoSES.

{Conlinucd from page 549.)
Evelyn Dauntesey (S. McGredy and Son,
rgii). — A. striking Rose of good habit and form ;
colour, soft salmon pink, and outer petals carmine
rose with a deeper centre. ."Vfter the style of
the old Danmark, a sport from La France, but
much deeper in colour and stronger in growth.
Should make a good exhibition Rose. I remember
seeing some very good specimens at Newport
(Isle of Wight) Show this last season, exhibited
by the Locksheath Nurseries. Their Rose manager
thought a great deal of the Rose, and strongly
recommended it to me. I have not grown it,
but shall do so next season.
Frau Margrethe Moller (Poulsen, 1912).—

.\iiothir Rose that I have not grown, but that
I am told by more than one grower is going to
be useful. Messrs. Frank Cant had some fine
flowers at the " National." Colour, a good deep
pink> with a lighter edge to the petal, fragrant
and a good grower. It was described as one
of the best of the
Continental Roses of
1912.
Fernieburst (Alex.

Dickson and Sons,
Limited, 191 1). — A beau-
tiful Rose this when you
can get it, but it has
not been very free-
flowering with me. Per-
haps its very upright
liabit is against the free-
flowering character,
("olour, pale fawn, with
a suggestion of pink. A
good flower is very well
finished, a model in its
way, that has the
appearance of being
carved out of wax. Its
foliage is very fine, large
and leathery, and a good
bronze green. The flower
is slightly scented rather
than strongly perfumed.
The flowers are quite full
size.
George Dickson (.Alex. Dickson and Sons,
191 2). — I have already referred to this Rose at
some length in my general review. I only now
mention it to say it is the finest exhibition Rose
of its colour, and every fxhibitor must have it
unless he wishes to be severely handicapped.

George Reimers (Soupert et Notting, 1910). —

I am afraid after two years' trial this Rose must
be said to be of no use for e.xhibition. It is a good
red for the garden, but that is the most that can
be said of it here. Further North, where it could
grow more slowly, it might occasionally be useful.

Geoffrey HenslOW (Alex. Dickson and Sons,
Limited, 191 2). — This is a very fine piece of colour,
a much deeper shade than G. C. Waud, but of the
same brilliancy, which is called orange crimson.
The flowers are globular, imbricated and of good
substance. A fine exhibition flower, a good
grower, erect, fairly free-flowering and deliciously
scented. Will be confused with the Hybrid
Perpetual of the same name, but this, the Hybrid
Tea, is to be preferred of the two.

James Ferguson (Ferguson, 1911). — .A silvery
pink sport from Caroline Testout, with which it

562

THE GARDEN.

[November 8, 1913

is identical in every other respect. I have had
some beautiful tlowers ot it from my two
plants, and it is worth making a note of. It
is probably the best of the many Caroline Testout
sports.

Jonkheer J. L. Mock (Leenders, igio). — A
fine exhibition Rose, a very deep pink bicolor, of
good shape and with a great deal of substance. A
fine grower, frequently exhibited, with good, largo
flowers that are very fragrant. It has, I think,
come to stay, and those who have not grown it
should try it. In a list of twenty new Hybrid
Teas that Mr. Mawley asked the leading growers
and amateurs in the kingdom to place in order of
merit last autumn for the purposes of his Rose
.Analysis, this Rose took the high place of fifth
in the table, the trade placing it even higher,
namely, third. It was very good with me last

in plenty. It is a robust rather than a vigorous
grower, and produces one flower at the end of
each shoot that grows very slowly. From its
perfume one would judge there is a good deal of
Tea blood, possibly Maman Cochet, in its veins.
The wood is stiff enough to hold the flowers erect,
and they do not require staking ; but it would
require protection in a wet season. Quite a
reliable Rose for an exhibition, but useless for any
other purpose.

Lady Greenall (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1911). —
One of the most beautiful Roses I know, but
hardly large enough for the exhibition boxes,
and I will refer to it under the garden Roses
later.

La Galissiere (Schwartz, 1909). — A large,
rather loosely-formed flower, a bicolor, bright
silvery rose, reverse carmine. I have seen it

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

FLOWER BORDERS AT AMPNEY
PARK, CIRENCESTER.

I SHALL be very pleased if you think this
photograph of my borders is suitable for
The Garden, They have been full of
colour this summer and much admired.
The hedge at the back is a mass of red
Dahlias of different shades. The tall plants
are Michaelmas Daisies ot different sorts, with
large groups of Anemone japonica (white). Del-
phiniums (some of which are flowering for the
second time), Spirjea Aruncus, Paeonies, &c. We
fill up spaces with annuals, and this year have
large patches of Pentstemon Southgate Gem,
Coreopsis, Cosmea, Alonsoa, Browallia, Zinnia,
Salvia Bluebeard, S. farinacea, &c.
Cirencester. A. Cripps.

and

BORDERS OF HARDY FLOWERS IN A GLOUCESTERSHIRE GARDEN.

season (1912), and has, I think, been even better
this.

King George V. (Hugh Dickson and Son, 1912).
— A rather large flower, deep velvety plum colour,
that is only at its best for a short period. Unlike
most of these dark-coloured Roses, it opens freely,and
I have seen some fine flowers of it ; but, personally,
the colour is not one that appeals to me. A good
grower and strongly scented.

Lady Barham (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1911). —
A Rose after the exhibitor's lieart. He knows
when he puts it in his box that it, at any rate,
will stand. Very large flowers of globular shape ;
colour, flesh, dull rather than briglit, an enormous
number of petals packed so tightly that many of
them can never see the light. It has been good
this year. A very fine flower took the silver medal
for the best Hybrid Tea for Messrs. Prior at
Southampton. Weight and substance are here

exhibited lighter in shade than J. L. Mock, but
it is a similar stamp of flower.

Leslie Holland (Hugh Dickson and Son, 1911).
— A wonderful colour, very free-flowering, sweetly
scented, but very little good for exhibition. Down
here in Hampshire it opens too quickly to stand
the strain of a joiurney in a box. In a cooler clime
it would, no doubt, behave differently. Here
I must call it only a garden Rose, but probably
the very best of its colour, growth, habit and free-
flowering being all prominently good. A cool
season will probably suit it better, and it will
then be exhibited for its colour, which is brilliant.
It has been shown in wonderful form, with
large flowers of great substance, by the raisers.
Moreover, it has been awarded the gold medal
of the National Rose Society.

Southampton. Herbert E. Molyneux.

{To be continued.)

THE CAMPANULAS OR
BELLFLOWBRS.

(Continued from page 551.)
C. latiloba. — See C. grandis.

C. Leutweini. — A foot high,
making a tuft of neat blue flowers in
June. A Greek species, liking a rather
drv soil.

C. Medium. — The well-known Can-
terbury Bell requires no mention
•urther. With its calycanthema varie-
ties it is one of our most valuable
border biennials. Sow early to have
good plants the following vear.

C. michauxioides. — A handsome
species, but practically biennial, and
giving in July tall spikes of loosely-
arranged, open, light blue flowers.
Seeds sown in May or June.

C. nobilis. — This seems closely akin
to C. punctata, and has red-violet or
u-hite flowers. It does not appear to
be very perennial, and should be
propagated by seeds or division.
Twelve inches to 18 inches high. June
and July.

C. patula. — A rather coarse native,
about two feet high, with panicles
of purplish blue flowers. Division or
seeds. Partial shade. July.

C. persicifolia. — The most valuable
of the taller Campanulas, C. persici
folia is now most varied in appear-
ance and in colouring. It grows from

2 feet to 6 feet or more in height (we have
seen Moerheimi about seven feet), is from white to
deep blue, and the flowers, opening in June and
July, vary greatly in form. Some are broad and
flat, others are longer, while some are of the caly-
canthema or " cup-and-saucer " type, the calyx
being of the same colour as the corollas. The
double varieties are very handsome, and the old
C. p. fl.-pl. has been superseded by newer varieties.
Moerheimi is one of the finest double whites,
humosa being a charming blue one, but there are
many other good varieties. Division or seeds.
Plant in good soil.

C. primulaefolia. — This was a biennial with the
writer, and is not of much value. From i foot to

3 feet high, with a spike of purple flowers. Seeds. July.

C. pulcherrima. — Very like C. elegans.
C. pyramidalis. — A well-known pot or border
plant, known as the Chimney Campanula. It

>itpf>Uiiunt to THE GARDEN, November Htli, 1913.

\

SOME GOOD

BORDER CARNATIONS:

1. Firefly. 3. Mrs. H. Brotherstone.

I Goldilocks. 4. Daisy Walker.
5. Queen Eleanor.

Hudson 3 Kearns. Ltd.. Printers, London. S.E.

November 8, 191 3.]

THE GARDEN.

563

IS unnecessary ti) say anything regarding it, except
that it is not often long-lived in the border, and is
best treated as a biennial. Flowers in the open
in July. Sow in May.

C. rapiinculoides. — .•^ rather coarse native
species, with spikes of drooping blue flowers.
Inclined to run at the roots, though not so much
so as C. Rapunculus. Division or seeds. July.

C. Rapunculus. — This should be banned from
every yard™, so troublesome does it become.
It grows from t foot to 4 feet high, and is blue.

July.

C. sibirica. — From 12 inches to 18 inches high
and with panicles of drooping violet flowers, C.
sibirica sufiers from being only
a biennial. The form divergens
is pleasing, while C. s. eximea is
a choicer plant in every way,
with violet flowers also. Seeds.
C. Hohenackeri is practically a
form of this, with violet flowers,
Jime and Julv.

C. Trachelium or C. urticae-

folia. — The Nettle- leaved Bell-
flower is a rather coarse but
useful plant for the border.
The flowers are blue or white,
and are in good spikes. The
double form, C. Trachelium fl.-pl.,
.md its white variety alba were
at one time much cultivated, but
they are now less frequently
^een. Comes freely from seeds
.ind grows anywhere. Height
from I foot to 4 feet. June and
July.

C. Tymonsi. — A pretty hybrid
about a foot high, with spikes
of light blue flowers. Said to
be of the same parentage as C.
Hendersoni. Division or cuttings.
June.

C. van Houttei. — A handsome
hybrid for the border or rock
garden, and with good purple
flowers. Common soil. June and

July.

C. versicolor. — There are three
versicolors in the trade, one a
poor biennial, 3 feet or so high,
with small blue flowers ; another,
a pleasing pale blue subject about
a foot high, but a shy bloomer ;
and a third about a foot high with
blue and white flowers. July.

C. Vidali. — A lovely shrubby
species with succulent, glossy
foliage and charming pale blue
flowers in July and August, but
only of value in the warmest
parts of England and Ireland. Seeds or cuttings.
One foot to 2 feet high.

ANNUAL CAMPANULAS.

These call for little notice, and the prettiest are
C. drabaefolia or attica, a charming dwarf hardy
annual only a few inches high. C. Loreyi or
ramosissima, 6 inches to 12 inches high, blue ;
and the handsome C. raacrostyla, purple, with
ornamental projecting styles, are good border
plants. C. dichotoma, C. Loefilingii, C phrygia
and C. strigosa have all been in cultivation, though
it is not easy to procure seeds of these. Sow in
the same manner as other hardy or half-hardy
annuals. S. .\rnott.

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATE 1480.

HARDY BORDER CARNATIONS.

A I'TER dealing so frequently with the

/% Tree or Perpetual-flowering Cama-

/ % tions, it is a pleasant change to place

/ % before our readers some up-to-date

^ ^ varieties of these hardy border

favourites, blooming as they do in

great profusion froiii June until November, and

bred to endure the most' rigorous winter. The

five varieties of which a coloured plate is given

] Clove-scented variety that has proved the most
popular of the year, .\ward of meri^ of the Royal
llnrtii iihural Society, July, igrj.

Queen Eleanor.— This fancy .Mr. Douglas
considers his best introduction to this class. A
lovely apricot ground, edged and suffused with
fiery scarlet, fading to blood red. One of the most
frequently exhibited flowers of the past two years.
Goldilocks is a self of the true apricot shade
and ut pc rfert form, and, owing to its robust con-
stitution, is a valuable addition to this popular
colour.

Daisy Walker. — This is the white-ground fancy
that u'aiiicrl the coveted distinction of a first-class
certificate of the National Car-
nation Society last July, and
won for its raiser the challenge
trophy. It is, no doubt, the last
word in this increasingly popular
type, its ground a pure white,
barred and pencilled a rosy scarlet,
and by unanimous opinion judged
to be the best-shaped white-
ground variety extant. The stock
of this is to be distributed in I9r4,
and is held by Mr. J. Douglas,
Edenside, Great Bookham, to whom
we are indebted for the flowers of
all the five varieties from which our
coloured plate was prepared.

THE GREENHOUSE.

CAUL I

T

A DELIGHTFUL BELLFLOWER : CAMP.\NUL.\ PERSICIFOLIA HUiMOSA

with this issue were raised and distributed by
Mr. James Douglas of Great Bookham, who for
a quarter of a century has been engaged in improving
this type.

Firefly, a bright scarlet of perfect shape and
ideal border habit, was exhibited at the Royal
Horticultural Society's meeting -in July last, and
received a unanimous award of merit.

Mrs. Andrew Brotherstone. — No painting can
do justice to the quaint beauty of this remarkable
flower, its petal being perfect and the outline of
the flower rivalling the Gardenia in shape, the
colour a mole carmine, curiously and beautifully
spotted with white markings. A powerfu'.ly

EARLY TULIPS HV POTS.

WO or three " things th
know," culled from my
own experience, may
happen to be useful to
some who are growing
these early varieties.
(i) I find that I am more suc-
cessful with them when I place
the pots in a cold frame with
a dark covering over the lights
than if I " plimge " them in any-
thing.. I am able to so manage
things that air can be, and is,
given, except in very severe weather,
all day and night. This is very
necessary. (2) I believe that a con-
siderable time may be gained if the
newly-potted bulbs are placed in
darkness under the staging or
elsewhere in a warm greenhouse
where the temperature can be kept
about 50^. They come on very
quickly in such positions, and as
it also draws up the foliage, they
can remain there a certain time
after top growth has conmienced.
L'nfortunately, during this period green fly is
apt to be extra troublesome, and a constant
watch has to be kept for its imwelcome appear-
ance, when prompt steps must at once be taken to
send the little pests about other business.
(3) People frequently complain of some of their
Tulips flow-ering low down close to the soil without
any length of stem. This often arises from dry-
ness at the roots at some period of their growth,
for no plants are more susceptible to a want of
adequate moisture than Tulips. It may be,
however, their innate habit which requires correct-
ing by a course of dark confinement in the earlier
stages of growth. Some, such as Prince de Ligny

564

THE GARDEN.

[November 8, 1913.

and Prince of Austria, do not want , it ; others,
for example, Proserpine and Yellow Prince, do.
(4) There is no doubt that size of bloom and size
of pot are almost interchangeable terms. By the
.application of manurial aids extra size can be
obtained when the plants are overcrowded, but it
is at the expense of their habit. I like to see well-
developed leaves just as much as fine flowers, and
that is why I am always preaching against over-
crowding. Long, delicate-looking, weakly leaves
are unnatural, and any treatment that tends to
produce such must be dealt with as one proverbially
does with poison. For example, Van Gooyen,
one of the cheapest of all the early
varieties, is remarkable for its hand-
some foliage — broad, large and very
silvery. The flower is like a medium-
sized pale Cottage Maid, borne on
long, sturdy stems. Overcrowding
would entirely alter its character,
and a lovely plant would be
spoilt. Joseph Jacob.

attention in this respect. The various subjects
that go wholly or partially to rest naturally require
much less water at this season, but those of an
evergreen nature must always be kept moist.
To this section belong such subjects as Azaleas
and Heaths, as well as the different plants in
flower. Chrysanthemums whose blooms are ex-
panded or rapidly approaching that stage are
very liable to decay if there is a spell of damp
weather and too much atmospheric moisture in
the structure. In this case a good plan is, even if
the weather is fairly warm, to use a little fire-heat,
and this, combined with a liberal amount of air,

THE AMATEUR'S GREEN-
HOUSE IN AUTUMN.

By now all tender subjects that it
is desired to keep throughout the
winter should be imder cover, as
sharp frosts may set in at any time.
With so many plants for which to
provide accommodation, there is a
great tendency to overcrowd the
greenhouse, and if this is carried to
the extreme, failure in many cases
must be anticipated. Plants that
have been outside for some time will
otten have a few destructive insects
or slugs thereon, and for this reason
every one should be carefully exa-
mined before they are taken indoors.
Even then some may be overlooked,
and such as aphides or green fly
readily increase when subjected to
warmer conditions. Should there be
the least sign of these pests, a very
good plan is to vaporise with one of
the nicotiBe preparations that are
now to be obtained, as vaporising
is much safer and gives less trouble
than when fumigating is resorted to.
Another point to bear promi-
nently in mind is that the plants
which have been out of doors, per-
haps for months, have been fully
exposed to the air, so that, when
they are taken into the greenhouse,
that structure should not be kept
too close, otherwise many subjects
may be injuriously affected. If this
is not attended to, some even of
the evergreen subjects will lose a good many of
their leaves. It is, therefore, evident that a reason-
able amount of air must be left at all times on
the greenhouse, provided there is no actual frost,
though direct draughts must, as far as possible,
be avoided. Watering, too, is also another impor-
tant consideration, for whereas in the height of
summer it is best done^in the evening, so that the
plants may imbibe moisture during the night,
it should now be carried out in the morning, in
order that the superabimdant moisture may be
quickly dried up. At this season of the year,
too, plants dry much less rapidly than in the
summer, and consequently will not need so much

season, the temperature may without risk descend
to 45° at night, rising during the daytime.

Fuchsias lose their leaves during the winter,
and when dormant they require very little water,
only just sufficient to prevent them being parched
up. They will also do with a moderate amount
of light, on which account they are, in order to
economise room, often wintered underneath the
stage of the greenhouse. This has one marked
drawback, inasmuch as they get the drip from the
stage when the plants thereon are watered.

Pelargoniums of the Zonal and Ivy-leaved
sections that have been bedded out during the
summer should be lifted, shortened
back, the long, straggling roots cut
off, and be potted in comparatively
small pots or laid thickly in shallow
boxes. If they are given a good
watering when first potted, no more
will be required for some time, as
these Pelargoniums need but little
water during the winter months, for
they are better if kept dry and in
a partially dormant condition. This,
of course, does not apply to those
that are to flower in the winter, as
for them increased heat and water
are very necessary. In any case,
Pelargoniums should have as light a
position as possible, a remark that
also applies to Heliotrope and Ver-
bena. For those that are more or
less dormant, such as Lantanas,
Cannas, Agapanthus and Hippe^
astrums, light is not so essential. It
is a great advantage to frequently
shift the plants about, as by passing
them through the hand any signs of
decay or other troubles may be
detected, and as far as possible
remedied. Above all, never leave
decaying foliage on the plants or
lying about in the house. H. P.

THE NEW PRIM\_'LA LA LORl^AINE.

will serve to dissipate the excess of moisture.
At the same time, too dry an atmosphere must
be avoided, as it is decidedly injurious to plants
in general. Should frost penetrate into the green-
house, do not on any account rush up the tempera-
ttire by means of fire-heat, but cover up the struc-
ture so that the plants are in the dark, and allow
them to thaw gradually. The different flowering
subjects, such as Carnations, Zonal Pelargoniums
and Primulas, need a light, buoyant atmosphere
and a temperature of 50° to 60°. Where the
greenhouse, however, is not regarded so much for
the production of blossoms in winter as a structure
for keeping tender plants safely through that

PRIMULA LA LORRAINE.

This new hybrid will be welcomed
by those who cherish the un-
common and beautiful forms of
the genus Primula. The new-
comer is of Continental origin, and
is said to have originated from
the crossing of P. Veitchii and
P. cortusoides amoena. The two
parents resemble one another
fairly closely, so that it is not
surprising to learn that the cross
has been effected. Incidentally,
it might be mentioned that
frequent attempts have been made
to cross P. cortusoides with the
well-known P. obconica, but so far without success ;
indeed, it is doubtful if any species has been crossed
with P. obconica. The leaves of the hybrid under
notice are soft and woolly, and the flowers are of
the pure Rose du Barri colour. The plant seen
in the accompanying illustration was shown by
Mr. M. Prichard, Christchurch, before the Royal
Horticultural Society in the spring of this year,
when it received an award of merit. It is a variety
of great promise, by virtue of its exceptional
colour, neat habit and freedom of flowering. Only
this one plant was shown, but, should its seed
prove fertile, there is little doubt that this acquisi-
tion will soon be in the hands of maiiv cultivators.

NOVEMBEK 8, I913.]

THE .GARDEN.

565

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO FORCE LILY OF THE VALLEY AND FLOWER ROOTS.

THE work of forcing flowering plants
IS very fascinating, and claims the
attention of cultivators throughout
the winter months. Heat and moisture
and a somewhat confined atmosphere
are essential to success. The heat
must be artificial, secured from fires and hot-
water pipes, or from hot-beds, or both. Moisture
is easily obtained, and it must not be excessive,
unless the heat is also high. The confined atmo-
sphere is secured in a deep frame, pit or low house.
Lilies of tlie Valley. — These are forced by plac-
ing plump (Towns in pots, or clumps containing a
number of good cro%vns. The best are Berlin
crowns or the strongest selected English-grown
ones. Although few new roots are made during
the forcing process, it is very detrimental to allow
the crowns and roots to get dry at any time. While
in a dormant condition the crowns will not be
injured by exposure to frost, but they must not
be lifted from the groimd nor placed in a warm
temperature while in a frozen state. Wait until
all frost has disappeared naturally. A light,
sandy compost is best for Lily of the Valley when
potting up the crowns or clumps. No. i. Fig. A,
shows a strong crown, and No. 2 the same one
with a portion of the roots cut off to enable the
workman to place the roots properly in a flower-
pot. No. 3 represents a useless crown. A few
of these are generally found in the clumps, but
they must not be removed, as they do no harm,
and provide leaves for cutting purposes when the
flower-spikes are placed in vases. No. 4 shows a
good clump. Few roots are too long for potting
conveniently when pots are used large enough
to permit of the fingers being inserted between
the clump and the sides. A nice sandy soil can
easily be worked in among the roots. Single

SELECTING AND POTTING UP LILY OF THE VALLEY CROWNS.

crowns must be potted as shown at No. 5. Twelve
or more crowns may be placed in a 6J-inch pot.
When the space. No. 5, has also been filled witli
crowns and some of the compost, strike the pot
sharply on the bench, keeping the fingers on the
crowns to steady them. This will have the effect
of firming the soil around the roots, and any open
space can then be filled at the top. No. 7 shows

'. ^ "ne* ri^ V.71 Vi-^ I

DIVIDING THE ROOTS OF SPIR.^AS, DIELYTRAS AND SOLOMON'S SEAL BEFORE

POTTING UP.

the stage of growth when the plants can be taken
from the covering material, No. 8. No. 9 depicts
the pots in a frame before being covered with moss
or Cocoanut fibre. No. 10 shows a strong crown
and flower-spike. At this stage full light must be
admitted to them.

Fig. B represents flower roots, such as Spiraeas,
Dielytras and Solomon's Seal. Roots of moderate
sire may be potted whole ; large ones should be
divided. It is not necessary- to put a great bulk of
soil round these roots when they are potted. From
three-quarters of an inch to an inch of compost
will be sufficient. Thorough drainage and fimmess
of soil are necessary. Directly the roots are potted,
give them a good watering. No. i shows a cliunp
that is of suitable size to pot singly. No. 2 repre-
sents a large root that should be divided as denoted
by the dark line across it. No. 3 shows half
of a divided clump placed in a pot, and No. 4 the
space to be filled with the prepared soil. No. 5
also gives a top view of the same root as placed
in the pot, and No. 6 represents a whole, but
smaller, root as potted. No. 7 shows a root of
Dielytra spectabilis, and No. 8 one of Solomon's
Seal. The large roots in each case must be care-
fully preserved in the pot. Until the time comes
for placing the roots in a warm house, keep them
in a cold frame as shown at No. 9. The latest
batch of plants will commence to grow in such a
frame. When the flower-spikes become prominent
and new roots plentiful, put the pots in saucers
as showqi at No. 10.

Feeding and Watering. — Spira;as, Dielytras
and Solomon's Seal may be both fed and watered
through the medium of saucers. All the forced
plants must be gradually subjected to a cooler
or greenhouse temperature after being kept in a
high one for a time ; then the leaves and flowers
last longer in a fresh condition. G. G.

566

THE GARDEN.

[November 8, 191 3.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

The Herbaceous Border. — By this date practi-
cally all the late-flowering plants will have gone
out o{ bloom or been cut down by the frost ; hence
the need to go over the border, cutting down what
is necessary and making the whole quite tidy for
the winter. Where no replanting or digging is
to be done before the spring, a light pricking
over of the surface will improve the appearance
of the border.

Biennials. — It is not too late, providing the
weather is open, to put various biennials and
perennials in their flowering positions ; in fact,
some plants stand the winter better after being
shifted than when left where they have originally
been pricked out ; so that Sweet Williams, Anchusas
and Canterbury Bells mav still be planted in the
borders or beds. I find these subjects have made
an unusual amount of growth this autumn, and
may be the better for the check.

The Rock Garden.

Additions and Alterations. — The next month
or so is, I think, the best time to make additions
and alterations in the rock garden. By making
the alterations at this season, the rocks and soil
have time to settle into what will eventually prove
their normal position before planting is done,
probably in early March.

The Position of the rock garden has a very
great deal to do with the ultimate success of the
plants. It is useless to expect alpine plants to
flourish in a position where even grass will not
grow, and it is often in such a place that a heap of
soil is put and stones dumped on to it, with a few
Ferns put in, this being called a rock garden.
To succeed in the cultivation of alpine plants
generally, the position cannot be too open, the
natural formation of the garden and the grouping
of the stones providing the shade that is so neces-
sary for the cultivation of certain subjects ; and in
an open position it is quite easy to have a bank
facing each of the different points of the compass.
Do not try to make a rock garden under trees,
nor partially so.

Plants Under Glass.

Chrysanthemums. — By th\s date many (if
the early-blo(jming Japanese varieties will be
over. These should be got rid of as soon as possible,
and so make room for other subjects. Many of
the stools may be thrown away at once, reserving
only those that are required for stock purposes,
thus saving a good deal of labour in shifting them
about from place t(.i place. A good light position
is the best for stock plants, and a frame where
frost can be excluded by turning on a little heat
is very suitable. The latest batches of decorative
varieties should be spaced out as much as possible,
disbudding some of them to one bloom to each
shoot, Mrs. J. Thomson, the Victoria family,
J- W. Crossley, Winter Cheer and Heston White
all giving better results when treated in this way.

Salvias and Eupatoriums for spring flowering

must be given plenty i;)f space between them just
now, or the growth is likely to become attenuated.
Careful feeding is necessary to maintain them in
a healthy condition without unduly softening
the growth. In each instance plenty of water
is required, these being very free-rooting subjects.

Perpetual-Flowering Carnations. — The plants

at this season must be kept very steady. Any
endeavour to force them either with heat or manure
is bound to end disastrously, at least so far as
the ultimate success is concerned. A dry atmo-
sphere is essential, as also is a moderately dry
condition of the roots. In the event of much fire-
heat being required to keep the temperature
from 45° to 50°, spider may make its appearance,
hut a careful spraying now and again should keep
it under.

Arum Lilies tliat may have been kept in the
frame? till now should be removed to a house,
and if the flowers are required about Christmas-
time, an intermediate temperature will suit them
well. If late bloom only is required, tlu-y will
do equally well in a cold resting fruit-house.

Plumbago rosea.— To get the best returns
from this beautiful plant, it should be kept growing

right through the winter, and must, therefore,
be kept in the cool end of the stove ; or if an empty
Cucumber or Melon house is available, it can have
exactly the treatment it requires. Naturally,
as the plants come into flower, too much atmo-
spheric moisture should not be maintained, though
a damping between the pots should be given on all
fine mornings. This is necessary to keep the
plants growing, and so maintain a succession of
bloom.

The Kitchen Garden.

Broccoli. — .\ sharp eye must be kept on these,
so as to cover them up or lift them as soon as they
are fit for use, or the first sharp frost will spoil
them. A good way to treat a batch just coming in
is to put the fork underneath them and give the
plants a good heel over. In this way it takes a
threat deal more frost to injure them than when
standing upright.

Globe Artichokes will be the better for a little
protection from severe frost. Good, dry leaves
placed around each clump, finishing off with some
long, strawy manure, will keep them in good order;
but care must be taken not to cover the clumps
enlirely, or rotting will take place.

Hardy Fruit.

Pears. — A. few early varieties that do con-
sistently well in this neighbourhood are Citron
des Carmes (very small) , Clapp's Favourite, .Souvenir
du Congr^s, Beurr^ GiiTard, Dr. Jules Guyot and
Williams' Bon Chretien. These are well worth
planting, all of them giving fair crops practically
every season, Clapp's Favourite and Dr. Jules
Guyot being perhaps the most consistent. Doyenne
Boussoch, though not first-rate in flavour, is a
heavy cropper every year, and is w^ell worth growing
for early stewing. Pitmaston Duchess always
gives a fair crop of good clean fruit, as also do
Beurre Diel, Marguerite Marillat and Beurr^ de
MortUlet. Marie Louise and Doyenne du Cornice are
not so consistent, but the fruits are usually clean
and of good flavour. Thompson's, when estab-
lished, crops very freely, and is one of the best
Pears we have for flavour. Good late varieties are
Charles Ernest, Marie Benoist, Nouvelle Fulvie and
Le Lectier, the latter always giving a fair crop of
clean fruit which keeps and ripens well.
Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wobnrn Place Gardens. Addlcstonc. Survey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Protecting Tritomas. — These showy autumn
flowers can only be looked upon as hardy in very
favoured localities, and I fear they often suffer
more or less for lack of a little attention at this
time. Some dry. open litter or coal-ashes should
be placed round them, and the operation had better
be performed by two persons, one to gather up
the long leaves and hold them up, while the other
manipulates the protecting material.

Old Violas. — While second year plants cannot
be relied on to go through the summer, yet they
yield large quantities of bloom throughout the
spring months before young stock begins to make
much of a show. It is well, therefore, to make
use of some portion of the old plants for this
purpose. When they must be moved from their
present quarters, they can be lifted and replanted
in grotmd which is to be used for half-hardy annuals
next season. The varieties of V. comuta, if cut
down now, can be relied on to go on flowering
throughout the whole of next summer.

Viola gracilis. — This little gem should be freely
used. It r an either be propagated by cuttings
or by di\'isii:)n.

The Rose Garden.

Planting. — This work must be prosecuted with
vigour, in order to enable the plants to get somewhat
rooted before severe weather sets in. Roses
suffered sadly during November last year.

Replanting. — Notwithstanding every attention,
Roses (on clay subsoils especially) often flower
less freely after they have been planted for a
few years. When such is the case, it is .id\'isable
to lift the entire bed or border, cut back the long,
bare roots, and lay them in the ground temporarUy
in a convenient spot until the bed or border has

been prepared for their reception again. If some
fresh loam can be procured, it will be a valuable
asset. Dress with some well-rotted farmyard
manure, adding some bone-meal, wood-ashes
and lime. Bastard-trench the ground, and, after
it has been allowed to settle for a few days, replant
the Roses, making any desired modifications
as to the varieties and their arrangement. Give
the whole a mulching of some light, open material.

The Pleasure Grounds.
Gravel Walks.— Old walks that have been
frequently gravelled and have become rather
unsightly can be improved without much expense
by the following means : Begin at an end and
slacken the surface with a pick to the depth of
3 inches or 4 inches ; then pass the loose material
through a sieve with a quarter of an inch or three-
eighths of an inch mesh into a wheel-barrow, and
wheel away the earthy siftings. Level the remain-
ing material, which will soon be made clean and
fresh by the winter rains.

Mulching Rhododendrons. — Large specimens

will be much benefited by receiving a good mulch-
ing of half-rotted farmyard manure. Not only
will they assimilate its fertilising properties, but
it will assist in maintaining those cool conditions
at the root during the ensuing summer which they
so much enjov.

Plants Under Glass.

Chrysanthemums. — The .\utumn Queen now
reigns supreme, the admired of all admirers, and
cultivators are reaping their reward. Now is the
time for note-taking, both at home and by the
exhibition table. The big blooms are being slowly
ousted by the decoratives and the singles. It
is some consolation to know, however, that with
such varieties as Felton's Favourite, David
Ingamells. Mrs. A. T. Miller, Nelly Pockett, Soleil
d'Octobre and Market Red one may secure a
large number of good-sized blooms on a plant.

Sweet Violets. — These will now require careful
handling, damp being the great enemy. To dispel
it, the plants must be ventilated freely on all
favourable occasions, while, on the other hand,
they must be carefully protected from frost.
Pinch all runners as soon as they appear.

Orchids. — Dendrobiums, Coelogynes, Cattleyas
and many other species of Orchids which naturally
go to rest at this season should have the tempera-
ture considerably lowered, and they should enjoy
rather dry conditions both at the root and in the
atmosphere.

Fruits Under Glass.

Forming Vine Borders. — Where Vines are to
be planted next spring, a start should be made
with the border as soon as possible. For early
work it is better to have the border inside only,
but for general purposes it is advisable to have
the border partly inside and partly outside.

Tomatoes. — Where winter Tomatoes are grown,
a temperature of about 60°, with a rather dry
atmosphere, should be maintained, and the flowers
be artificially pollinated as they open.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Pruning Currants. — The work of pruning
Currants should now be proceeded with. Red
Currants should be pruned on the spurring syst»m.
Black Currants bear on the previous season's
wood ; therefore some portion of the old branches
should be cut away annually to make room for
young wood. The yoimg shoots should only be
slightly shortened.

The Vegetable Garden.

Potatoes. — Potato pits which were left open
on top to allow evaporation to proceed shovild
now be finished off. and some protecting material
should either be placed on the pits or be at hand
in the event of severe frost occurring.

Laying Savoys. — Much of this useful winter
crop is often lost on accoimt of the rains and
melting snow percolating down among the
leaves and lodging in the axils. This evil can
be largely obviated by lifting the crop and laying
it in by the heels, laying the plants well over on
their sides so that they can throw off the water.

New Zealand Spinach can generally be kept

in icinditiiHi throughout November by covering

a portii f the 1 nip with a frame, or even by

ni.atting it on frosty nights.

Charles Comfort
Brooinfit'hl Ciardens, Davidson* s Mains, Midlothian.

November 8, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

567

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON
VEGETABLES.

Cabbages. — No time should be lost in putting
out the last batch of plants to come in lor use in
June. Such varieties as Flower of Spring, Daniels'
Defiance, Wheeler's Imperial and Sutton's Im-
perial are all suitable, .'^t this season slugs are
especially troublesome during showery weather,
and if not checked will quickly spoil the whole
plantation. Lime and soot is of little use, as the
lust shower destroys its power. A much better
K-raedy is to cover the ground within 6 inches of
the plant, and close up to the stem, with finely-
silted coal-ashes. Over this slugs cannot crawl.
AH established plants should have the soil fre-
<queatly stirred with a Dutch hoe, or. in the case
• >f stiff soil, fork it lightly over in dry weather.
Frequent stirring of the soil is also a check to slug
depredations.

Onions. — Those who wish to produce large
exhibition bulbs next year would do well to make
a start in preparing the land on which they are to
grow. In the growth of Onions of the .Ajlsa Craig
type deep cultivation is an absolute necessity.
An open site, away from o\-erhanging trees, should
be selected, and the land trenched quite 3 feet
[ deep. If the soil is of a stiff, retentive character,
with a hard pan-like subsoil, into which the roots
cannot enter, but which withholds superfluous
moisture from heavy rains which are not beneficial
t(i the growth of the Onion, thoroughly break up
the bottom trench and add a layer of manure to
every spit of soil, using that which is long at the
bottom ; this assists in maintaining porosity of
the soil. The shorter manure should come near
the surface. If there is a possibility of the
ground being trenched again next year, I would
advise that the soil from the bottom of the trench
be brought to the top ; if not, arrange to have the
surface soil in the same position when the trench-
ing is completed. Leave the surface as rough as
possible. The winter frosts will disintegrate the
clods and render the soil in good working con-
dition. Choose dry weather for the work, or the
soil will knead too much.

Tripoli Onions. — The plants resulting from seed
sown in August will now be 2 inches or 3 inches
high. Keep them free from weeds by constantly
hoeing during dry weather. First give a good
dressing of soot or wood-ashes, which will, when
hoeing, be gradually worked into the soil, and will
in due course be beneficial to the plants in their
subsequent growth.

Globe Artichokes. — Remove the lower leaves
preparatory to placing around each a thick mulch
of long, strawy manure as a winter protection from
frost. In low-lying districts where the plants
sutier from frost and fog, it is a good plan to take
off and pot up sucker-like growths, entering them
in a frame with their pots plunged in ashes. Keep
the lights open during fine weather to induce a
stocky growth. Such plants will be useful in
making a new plantation or for filling up gaps.

Endive should be transferred to frames as fast
as they become empty to keep up a succession of
blanched heads. Well ventUate the frames to prevent
the rotting of the outside leaves. Blanching may
still be done by tying up the largest plants of the
Bata\-ian kind out of doors. The Moss-curled
should be blanched by the aid of an inverted
flower-pot, covering the drainage hole at the same
time so that all the light is excluded. Three or

four weeks are required to blanch Endive properly.
As the days become colder, the most satisfactorv
way is to lift a few plants every week and place
them in the Mushroom house, shed or cellar.

Celery. — The final e.irthing should not be
delayed after this date. As the work proceeds,
carefully tie the leaves close to the stem to prevent
the soil getting into the heart of the plant, which
makes crooked sticks and cripples the growth
generally. Well break up the soil, making it quite
fine before placing it around the plants. If it is
put together in rough lumps, that also, by imdue
presstire, creates a crooked growth. After the soil
is chopped down from the sides of the trenches,
and before it is put around the plants, soot should
be liberally sprinkled on the soil as a check to slugs
disfiguring the Celery. For earliest use, blanch-
ing with bro\vn paper is the more simple way
and quite as eflScient. Where this is employed,
and the weather at all dry, the plants should receive
another, and last, soaking of water. Aftenvards
apply the last rings of papr •, making them all
secure.

Cucumbers f'lr winter use must have close
attention in their growth requirements. Abund-
ance of heat is an absolute necessity, never allowing
the thermometer to fall below 70°. The plants
will not need syringing, but moisture must be
maintaitied by damping the walls and beds occa-
sionally. Remove any leaves showing the slightest
tendency to red spider or mildew. Keep the growth
thin on the trellis, stopping the shoots at the second
joint, and by no means crop the plants heavily,
or they will qtiickly collapse ; if not quite that,
the fruit will decay at the point, become crooked,
I or refuse to grow altogether. Never allow more
than one fruit to remain from any cluster of flowers.
Coxer any roots with warm soil as fast as they
appear on the hillocks, and always use tepid water
when moistening the roots.

Swanmore Park, Hants. E. Molyneu-x.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

; FLOWER GARDEN.

TULIPS FOR MAY (Manners).— The best Tulips for your
piupose will be varieties of the Cottage or May-flowering
j sorts and those known as Darwins. The last named are
! the tallest and most handsome, though some of the shades
of colour you require are not found in this group.
Those most likely to suit you are Clara Butt and Ingles-
combe Pink, which really constitute the best pinks,
with Inglescombe Yellow, Mrs. Moon and Leghorn Bonnet,
yellow. Bouton d'Or is late flowering and very rich in
colour. If you keep the bulbs of these in a cool, dry
cellar or similar place until mid-December before planting
them, a lat«r flowering would be assured. Spanish Irises
should follow the Tulips for early Jxme. These should
be planted at once. We think such Roses as Aglaia,
, American Pillar, Hiawatha and Tausendschon would
be most suitable. The earliest-flowering Gladioli among
large-flowered sorts are those known as July-flowering.

They are a varied and doliizlithil class.

" DAFF0blLS~ANirPiE0"NIES (A/. ^.).— Dafiodils are
chiefly increased by means of offsets, i.e., side shoots
' which appear on the parent bulbs. These, when large
enough, may be detached, and replanted either with
the parent plant -or in a place apart. Daffodils are also
, freely raised from seeds ; but as the seedlings take from
i four to a dozen years before flowering, and a very con-
siderable proportion of them '"may be inferior to the
original, this phase of the subject will be hardly worth
your while. You ask whether the herbaceous Pseony
is long-lived, and the answer is that, we believe it will,
with cultivation, continue indefinitely. Indeed, we have
1 to-day plants of a variety which grew in the home garden
I in established clxunps fifty., years ago, and the day of
i deteriorating is not yet. It should be remembered,
however, that the plants have been cultivated meanwhile,
and, this done, they may remain good for years. Good
cultivation includes lifting, dividing and replanting
every few years, say, six to ten, according to the circum-
stances. The Pfeony is a deep-rooting, gross-feeding
subject ; hence deeply-trenched, well-manured soils should
always be given it. The best planting season is
September and October. Large clumps of the Paony

should never be transplanted intact, free division of tlu'
roots being as essential to the future success of the plant-
as the other things mentioned. In soils that are botli
light and shallow, six years would be ample to leave thent
without division ; while in deep, rich loams they may
remain for twice as long and still fiurnish good flowers.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

PRUNING BUDDLEIA VARIABILIS AND TAMARIX

(J/rs. F. Browne).— the Buddleia should be cut back
fairlv hard, preferably early in the spring. The Tamarix
may' be cut back at the same time if it is desired to keep
it within bounds ; but, if a big bush is required, it would
need no pruning at all, except to remove weak shoots
that might be killed by the frost.

TREES AND SHRUBS FOR EAST COAST TO GROW
IN SAND (Dolphin).— The following subjects may be
expected to thrive under the conditions ynu describe :
Pinus Laricio and its variety nigricans, the Corsican and
.\ustrian Pines respectively, Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris).
Goat Willow (Salix Caprea), S. cinerea, S. repens, Hippo-
pliae rhamnoides, Tamarix in 'variety, common Birch
and Picea sitchensis. All the plants must be inserted
while quite small, and the Pines will establish themselves
most successfully if planted when from 0 inches to
12 inches in height. Tor shelter there is nothing better
than .\ustrian Pine.

TO PRUNE POLYGONUM BALDSCHUANICUM
(A. D. H.). — This plant may be cut back to within a
few buds of the main branches, and have a number of
the latter cut awav if there are too many any time during
winter or early spring, preferably during February or
March. It is usual at the present time to go over plant,*
and remove anv growth which is likely to cause in-
convenience during the winter, reserving the main pruning
for the spring.

FRUIT GARDEN.

NEGLECTED FRUIT TREES (Bo)io).~The best way
will be to go over the trees at once. In the first place,
cut out all the dead branches and twigs (these, of course,
can be of no good). Then start again and cut out the
weakest of the branches where the tree appears over-
crowded with them. That will be all you need to do now ;
but some time in January go over the trees agaui and
thin out more of the weakest and most worn-out lookmg
branches ; that is to aav, if you think the trees are still
over-congested with branches. There is no other pruning
necessary except this thinning out, and this should
be seen to every winter. The middle of November
transplant the Easpberry canes from where they are not
wanted into rows where they are wanted. You will
be disappointed if you leave the Rhubarb in the cellar
for another year. Take it out and replant it in the garden,
ailing its place in due time with fresh roots from outside.

ABOUT APPLES (H. 0.).— The Apples are badly at-
tacked by the scab fungus. During the winter thoroughly
prune out all the shoots (spurs and weak shoots are
both liable to attack) showing cracks in the bark. Spray
the trees while dormant with a wash of lib. of copper
sulphate to 25 gallons of water. Just before the buds burst,
and again after the petals fall, spray with Bordeaux mixture
of half the strength used for spraying Potatoes. Almost
any Apples except the most vigorous-growing varieties
will succeed as cordons. They should, of course, be on
Paradise stocks. Worcester Pearmain, Colonel Vaughan,
Emperor Alexander, King of the Pippins, Cox's Orange
Pippin, AUington, Golden Reinette, Baumann s Remelte,
Feam's Pippin and Sturmer Pippin for dessert purposes ;
and Duchess of Oldenburg, Potts' Seedling, Grenadier,
Stirling Castle, Golden Spire. Lord Derby and Bismarck
among kitchen varietie, swould probably prove satisfactory.

MISCELLANEOUS.

TO REMOVE CLOVER FROM TENNIS LAWN (O. 0.).
— Give the laNvn a dressing of sulphate of ammonia in
spring at the rate of IJcwt. to the acre. Basic slag would
greatly increase the tendency to grow Clover.

PLANT FOR NAME AND TREATMENT (Miss R. S. L.).—
The specimen sent for determination is the Variegated
Tree Mallow (Lavatera arborea variegata). It is a biennial,
and is propagated by seeds, which may be procured from
most of the best firms of seedsmen at about one shilling a
packet. It is not usual for every plant to come true from
seed, although a good percentage have variegated leaves.

NAMES OF PLANTS. — A. K. B., Surrey. — Clerodendron

foetidum (a Chinese shiub). Fife. — 1, Aster Novai-

Anglife pulchellus ; 2, A. N.-A. ruber ; 3, A. lindleyanus ;

4, A. Novi-Belgii Robert Parker ; 6, Zebrina pendula ;
6, PhcBnix reclinata ; 7, 8, 9 and 10, garden forms of

Clematis Jackmanii ; 11, Aster Novse Angliae variety.

Szmo — The Dahlias are as follows: 1, Henry Patrick;
2, A. D Stoop ; 3, Rev. A. Hall ; 4, Mrs. J. Goddard ;

5, Mrs. Macmillan ; 6, Crescent ; 7, too poor to recognise.
NAMES OF FRUIT. — T. C. — 1, Withington Fillbasket;

2. Kedleston Pippin ; 3, Ecklinville Seedling ; 4, Haw-

thomden ; 5, Betty Geeson. Dinnet. — Wyken Pippin.

J. A. W.—l, Tibbett's Pearmain ; 2, Feam's Pippin ;

3, Pearson's Plate; 4, JIargil ; 5, Bess Pool ; 6, Peasgood's

Nonsuch. A. R. T. — 1, Keswick Codlin; 2, King 0'

the Pippins ; 3, Hollandbury ; 4, Warner's King ; 5, Potts'
Seedling ; 6, Lord Derby ; 7, Pennington's Seedling ; 8,

Miller's Seedling ; 9, Hoary Morning. J. E. P. — 1, New

Hawthomden ; 2, Frogmore Proliflc ; 3, Cox's Orange
Pippin; 4, Cellini ; 5, Royal Nonsuch: 6, Allen's Ever-
lasting ; 7, Beauty of Hants ; 8, 9 and 10, King of the

Pippins; 11, Stamford Pippin.

568

THE GARDEN.

[November 8, 1913.

SOCIETIES.

THE KENT COMMERCIAL FRUIT SHOW.

The third annual exhibition of comnn^rcial fruit, orpaniscfl
by the Kent Commercial Fruit Show Association, was held
in the Corn Exchange. Maidstone, on Tuesday and Wednes-
day, October 28 and 29. The number of entries were will
in advance of those in previous years, and although thr
fruit was not so well coloured, in "most instances it was of
excellent quality. This show has rishtly come to be
regarded as a centre for the exhibition of the best examples
of British-?rown Apples and Pears, and, by bringing to
the notice of consumers, growers and salesmen the merits
of good grading and packing and the production of clean,
sound fruit, those responsible for the display are doing
good work. The exhibition and luncheon were attended
by a great many people, among them being the Agent-
General for Victoria, Australia, who stated that he had
never seen such good fruit in the country that he represented.
We do not here propose to give details of prize-winners
in the various classes, as these are of interest only to those
connected with the trade, but it may be of value to give
a brief review of a few of the more outstanding features.
It was interesting to note that in the culinary Apples
Bramley's Seedling and Newton Wonder were the most
extensively shown. The classes for these were particularly
well filled, and some extremely fine examples of these
fruits were on view, both in boxes and barrels. The
boxes used had to be of the following size, inside measure-
ment: Federation standard, 20 inches long by 11 inches
wide by 10 inches deep; Federation half-box, 20 inches
long by 11 inches wide by 5 inches deep. Exhibitors
were also advised to tise boxes made to the following
specification : Heads in one piece, three-quarters of an
inch thick ; sides in one or two pieces, three-eighths of an
inch thick ; tops and bottoms in two pieces, a quarter
of an inch thick : and cleats for tops and bottoms about
a quarter of an inch thick by 1 inch wide by 11 inches long.
Gtood grading and packing had to be taken into considera-
tion by the judges, and a class was specially set apart
for the best packed boxes in the show. In the dessert
Apples there were some very flue displays of Cox's Orange
Pippin, AUington Pippin and Blenheim Orange, the latter,
in many instances, being particularly well coloured, in
spite of the fact that Apples, generally, are of a very dull
hue this year. In the class for a new dessert Apple,
introduced since 1900 and in season after December 1,
Rival was about the only variety of import shown, the
special cup offered in this class being awarded to Messrs.
Gaskain and Whiting for a magnificent box of that variety.
Evidently it is to be one of the leading dessert Apples
of the future.

The barrels of culinary Apples, such as Bramley's Seed-
ling. Newton Wonder and Lane's Prince Albert, were
exceptionally good, those holding about three bushels
being favoured. Here, in some instances, notably in
Bramley's Seedling, fruits of two grades or sizes were
shown, and the packing was plain evidence that some at
least of our home growers have little to learn from those
in the Colonies.

The Coupe Challenge Cup and the silver-gilt medal
presented by the Worshipful Company of Fruiterers,
offered for the best exhibit in Classes 1, 2, 3 and 4, respec-
tively, devoted to Bramley's Seedling. Newton W^onder.
Lane's Prince Albert and Blenheim Orange, grown in
Kent, Surrey or Sussex, were won by Mr. S. Skelton, West
Farleigh, Maidstone, for a wonderfully good display of
Bramley's Seedling. The George Mence Smith Champion
Cup, offered for the best box shown in Classes 1 to 15,
was won by Messrs. Gaskain and ^Vhiting, Faversham,
with a superb box of Cox's Orange Pippin, this box being
sold by auction for three guineas. The silver medal
presented by the Worshipful Company of Fruiterers for
the best box shown in Classes 13, 14 and 15 went to Messrs.
P. and E. Le Feaver. Marden, Kent, for a splendid box
of Lane's Prince Albert.

Two fine non-competitive groups of fruit were showm.
One of these was from Messrs. George Bunyard and Co.,
whose head-quarters are at Maidstone, and who have a
world-wide reputation for fruit trees. Tliis comprised all the
leading %arieties of Ai)jiles in the pink of condition, and
staged in tlie lirni's lust manner. The other came from
Messrs. Seabrook and Sous of Chelmsford, and was also
of particularly attractive appearance, fine, well-finished
fruits, particularly the Cox's Orange Pippin, being arranged
to the best advantage. Grading machines and sprayinir
apparatus of many and up-to-date kinds were well shown
by Messrs. Drake and Fletcher of Maidstone, and it is
evident that the commercial grower is much better catered
for in this direction than he was some years ago. Tin-
Digit Grading Machine was also shown at work by Messrs.
W. Weeks and Sons, Limited, of Maidstone, who also
showed large spraying machines.

Messrs. E. and A'. White, Limited, Paddock Wood,
Kent, had a fine display of their famous " Abol " insecti-
cides, fungicides and washes, as well as spraying apparatus
of many and particularly effective kinds. Their new
non-poisonous worm-killer was also on view.

Ttie Four Oak*;* Spraying Machine Company, Sutton
Coldfleld, had a very wide assortment of their spraying
machines and apparatus, suitable for both large and small
iirowers, and it would be difficidt tn name anything of the
kind that they could not supply. Messrs. Voss and Co. of
MiUwall, London, made an attractive display of chemicals
for spraying purpose.s, and also included samples of their
well-known Fertilisers.

A deputation of the Royal Horticultiu-al Society, con-
sisting of Mr. James Hudson, V.M.H., Mr. W. Poupart, Mr.
A. H. Pearson and Mr. C. G. A. Wix, visited the show on the
first day and made the following awards to the exhibitors on
behalf of the society : Gold medal to .Messrs. Gaskain and

Whiting for their collective display of Apples and Pears ;
silver-gilt Knightian medal to Messrs. George r.unyard
and Co. and to Mr. Miskin ; silver-gilt Banksian medals to
Messrs. W. Seabrook and Sons, Mr. S. Skelton and .Messrs.
Spooner and Co., the latter being for maiden trees ; silver
Banksian medals to Messrs. W. Kay and Sons for maiden
trees ; Messrs. H. Cobb for three boxes of AUington
Pippin ; Mr. G. E. Champion, Mr. F. Smith and Messrs.
Skinner and Sons. With such an important exhibition
as this being held annually, we would suggest to the com-
mittee of management that invitations be extended
another year to representatives of the horticultural Press.

READING GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION.

The usual fortnightly meeting was held in the Abbey
Hall, by kind permission of Messrs. Sutton and Sons,
on Mondav, October 27, when, owing to the enforced
absence oif the president through indisposition, and
of the chairman {Mr. Powell) in consequence of the
serious illness of Mrs. Noble, Mr. J. T. Tubb (vice-chair-
man) presided over a good attendance of members. The
lecturer for the evening was A. Harrison. Esq., of Watford
'late of Oneglia. Italy), and his subject " Orchids." The
lecturer first pointed out by the aid of lantern-slides the
structural peculiarities of the flowers of Orchids and tlieir
resemblance to many insects, such as moths and hnllerflii's.
Theextraordinary form of the fructifying orgaii-^, tin means
whereby insects were attracted and used for the purposes
of pollination and intercrossing, were also shown by slides
of Coryanthps, Stanhopeas, &c. Mr. Harrison then went
on with plates and descriptions together, giving cultural
details of the most useful species, such as might be grown
successfully in warm, intermediate or cool greenhouses
in the company of ordinary plants usually found in such
structures, provided a few essential details were observed.
He emphasised the importance of the use of rain-water
only, as well as of careful ventilation, stating tliat while
movement of air was absolutely necessary, nearly all the
species objected to draughts. Most of the air admitted
should come through ventilators below the stages, and
not at the stage level. It was pointed out how excess of
ventilation at the apex of a house dissipated the moisture
and unduly dried the atmosphere, to the detriment of
the plants". Among the species for warmer lionses of
which slides were sliovm, Mr. Harrison included Cattleyas
Mendelii. Triana?. labiata gaskelliana. gigas, hardyana
and aurea ; Ltelia purpurata ; Dendrobiums nobile,
crassinode and wardianum; Cypripediums leeanum. Charles-
worthii, bellatulum.fairieanum, callosnm Sanderse and Cur-
tisii. Plates were also shown of some of the newer beautiful
compound hybrids of Lselio-Cattleya. Odontioda, Brasso-
Cattleya and Brasso-L»lia, and the lecturer stated that
the great vigour of many of these hybrids made them more
amenable to cultivation than a number of the species,
but added that the prices of many were prohibitive.
Among species needing cool treatment, plates of
Odontoglossura crispura, in many varieties, were shown—
O. Hallii, O. harryannm. as well as many hybrid Odonto-
glossums and Cypripedium insigne. Seedling Cypri-
pediums were also showni growing on the compost of an
established plant, and the various methods of raising
Orchid seedlings were described. At the conclusion of
his remarks Mr. Harrison answered numerous questions
put to him by members of the audience, and at the close
of the meeting was accorded a most hearty vote of thanks.
The hall presented an exceedingly bright and gay
appearance, as. apart from specimens of Orchids brought
by the lecturer, there were no fewer than eight exhibits.
^i^. G. Tovey. The Gardens, Leighton Park School, staged
eighteen dishes of fine Apples, which were awarded a
certificate of cultural merit and were also judged for the
Points Competition. For the latter three fine collections
of Chrvsanthemums were put up by Mr. J. T. Tubb. The
Gardens, Bearwood ; Mr. H. Reeves, The Gardens,
Blandford Lodge ; and Mr. H. G. Cox. Mr. E. Blackwell,
head-gardener to the Lord Chief Justice, staged a collection
of well-grown Apples; and filr. H. Goodger, The Gardens,
Stoncham House, three baskets of fine Sutton's Ailsa
Craig Onions, which secured almost the maximum number
of points. From the University College Gardens Mr.
Drew sent beautiful cut Chrysanthemums, and Mr. W. Lees
exhibited a group of seedling Fuchsias. Two new members
were elected. The hon. secretary acknowledges with
sincere thanks the receipt from ** Onlooker " of two
five-pound notes, to be devoted to special objects. The
committee will consider and endeavour to carry out the
donor's wishes.

Queen Mary, Alice Lemon, Master James (highly coloured),
Kara Dow, Frances Jolliffe and Lady Talbot. Mr. Usher
was second, his blooms of Bob Pulling, Mrs. A. E. Roope,
F. S. Vallis. W. Turner and I). B. Crane being very fine
Third honours went to Mi-. B. Dacre, gardener to Mr.
W. Dickinson. Taunton. Master James and Pockett's
Crimson were his best blooms.

Mr. Usher had the best Japanese incurved blooms.
H. E. Converse, W. Turner and Mrs. A. E. Roope being
the best. Messrs. Dacre and Tooley were secpnd and
third respectively.

That flue cultivator Mr. H. Woolman of Shirley, Bir-
mingham, won in the class for nine vases of blooms on
long stems, distinct, three blooms in a vase. His blooms of
C. H. Totty were very fine. He had also in good form Thomas
Lunt. Miss Gladys Herbert, Lady Talbot, Lady Crisp
and Kara Dow. Second honours went to Mr. J. Stevenson,
Wimborne, who staged very nice blooms, Mr. Tooley
was placed third.

In the class for two vases, nine blooms in each, two
varieties. Mr. E. G. Cox, gardener to Mrs. Duberley,
was placed first with F. S. Vallis and Mrs. Marsham.
Mr. Kitclier. gardener to Major Wyndham Pain, was
second with W. Turner and Mrs. Marsham. and had the
best blooms. His blooms of W. Tiu^ner were the finest in
the show.

For six vases, Mr. Galpin. gardener to Mrs. Telfer.
was the winner. He had the best single vase of Japanese
yellow, six blooms in a vase, Mr. Cox having the best
six white Japanese.

Singles were well shown, Mr. Honey, gardener to Mr."
J. G. Rayner, winning in the class for six vases. Mr.
Barge, gardener to the Rev. C. H. Burrows, was successful
in a similar class in another division.

Mr. Usher won in the class for winter-flowering Car-
nations, and Mr. Short won the cup in the class for Begonias
and winter-flowering plants.

Messrs. G. H. Heath, Webb and Weaver staged the
best Zonal Pelargoniums in the order named. These
made a brilliant display near the centre of the hall.
Fruit and Vegetables.

The Grapes. Apples and Pears filled one long table,
the quality throughout being very good. The Muscat
of Alexandria Grapes were of the highest quality and
grandly coloured. Mr. Hall of Embley Park, Romsey,
Mr. Hill of Kingston Lacey, and Mr. Tooley of Winch-
conibo. also Mr. Barrett of Bournemouth, were the chief
prize-winners.

Messrs. Cope of Wimborne, Hill, Dacre and Usher
were the principal winners in the classes for Apples and
Pears, and Mr. Usher had matters all his own way in the
vegetable classes, winning the first prizes offered for
collections by Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Messrs. Webb
and Sons, and Messrs. Toogood and Sons.
Non-competitive Exhibits.

Gold Medals. — To Messrs. John Waterer and Sons
for shrubs and climbers ; Messrs. G. Watts and Sons for
Chrysanthemums, hardy shrubs and floral designs ;
Messrs. Stuart Low for Orchids and Carnations ; and
Messrs. James Carter and Co. for vegetables.

Silver Medals.~To Mr. J. J. Kettle for Violets ; Messrs.
Toogood and Sons for vegetables ; and Mr. Robert
Chamberlain for floral designs.

WARGRAVE GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION.

A LAKGKLY-ATTESDED meeting of the above society
took place on Wednesday evening, October 22, when
•■ ten-minute papers " were given by Mr. Baker on " The
Propagation of Stove and Greenhouse Plants," Mr.
Batchelor on " Tomato Culture," Mr. Irvin on " Large-
flowering Cinerarias," and Mr. Gray on " Violet Culture."
Each subject was treated in a very practical manner,
full cultural directions being given, and a capital discussion
ensued after each paper. Votes of thanks were carried
with acclamation at the close. Three new members
were elected. The Wargrave Plant Farm, Limited,,
staged a splendid lot of outdoor Chrysanthemums, and
the judges awarded a cultural certificate. Mr, Pope
showed a group of Begonia Gloire de Lorraine, Mr. Mac-
kenzie a vase of Dahlias, and Mr. Stephens a vase ot
Carnations, and all three were highly commended.

BOURNEMOUTH HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

The Council of the Bournemouth Horticultural Society
held a most successful exhibition of fruits, flowers and
vegetables in the Westover Palace Skating Kink on
Tuesday and Wednesday. October 28 and 29. The groups,
cut flowers of Clu-ysanthemums on boards and in vases,
the fruit and vegetables, and the non-competitive exliibits
made the chief features of the exhibition. The children's
section was also an extensive, beautiful and instructive one.
Groups of Miscellaneous Plants and Cut Floweus.

Mr. Usher, gardener tP Sir Randolf Baker, Bart.,
was the winner in the big group class. His Crotons
and Orchids were very effective. Messrs. G. Watts and
Sons. Limited, Bournemouth, were close second prize
winners, staging lovely Begonias, Crotons, Palms and
Ferns. Mr. J. Stevenson, Wimborne, had a lovely group
of plants and Chrysanthemums, and won third honours.

Mr. Charles Pearce, gardener to .Mrs. Ormond. won
the cup offered for a group of Japanese and single-flowered
Chrysanthemums. His group was charmingly arranged.
Cut Blooms on Boards and in Vases.

For twentv-four Japanese in not fewer tlian eighteen
varieties. Mr.' J. H. Tooley, gardener to Mr. Hugh Andrews,
Winchcombe, won, having fine examples of His .Majesty,

ELSTREE AND BOREHAM WOOD HORTICULTURAL.

ASSOCIATION.

There was a large gathering of members of this society
in the Parish Room on the evening of Thursday, the
16th ult., the occasion being that of a presentation to Mr..
W. J. Pritchard, the hon. secretary of the society. The
chair was occupied by the Rev. A. R. T. Eales, who said
that it was one of those happy occasions when every-
body was of one mind. They had met there to show
their appreciation of the splendid work which their hon.
secretary had rendered their society. Mr. F. Jones,,
who was secretary to the Testimonial Fund, said that
101 members had contributed to the fund, and spoke of
his esteem of Mr. Pritchard. Mr. Harmau Moore and
Mr. T. Eames also spoke in glowiug terms of the excellent
work which Mr. Pritchard had done, and his keen interest
in the affairs of the village. The presentation, which
took the form of a magnificent roller-top desk, was formally
presented by the Rev. A. R. T. Eales, who fully endorsed
all that had been said of Mr. Pritchard. Also at the same
time Mrs. Pritchard was presented with a handsome
gold guard chain. In thanking the chairman and members,
Mr. Pritchard, speaking with emotion, said that his work
as hon. secretary had been very largely a labour of love,
and he certainly did not look for any acknowledgment.
The ]ir''srntation was followed by a musical programme,
kindly arr uiiuimI by thr chairman and some of tin- miiihIums.
the evriiiiiL' bi'inLi brought to a clofe by accordiii;^ iiiu^ical
honours to Mt. Pritchard.

^fe^

GARDEN.

No. 2191.— Vol. LXXVII.

November 15, 1913.

CONTBNTS.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

\ i[i:s OF THE \Vei:k 569

« .IIUFISPON'DENCE

I he Almond in
scotlaDd . . . . 570

I't imiila Poissoni at

Clandon Park . . 570

l{o-;<i Cnatcau dc
Clos Vouiieot . . 571

\ Wallflower for
Ijoddiup . . . . 571

1 lie best white Rose
for beddint! . . 571
! iirthcoming events,. 571
I HE Silver-leaf Dis:ease
OF Fkuit Trees

Its cause and pre-
vention .. .. 571
KiMK AND Water Garden

The designing, con-
struction and
planting of rock
tj.'irdens . . . . 572

Litbospermum pros-
tratum flowering

late 572

A Qtjaint and In-
expensive S U N -

DIAL 573

Hose Garden
In a Hampshire par-
den 573

574

Flower Garden
Foliam- plants for
the water-side . .
The uaminnof

Tulips 574

Chrysanthemums in

tubs 575

Trees and Shrubs
The winter prunin?
of trees and shrubs 575
New and Rare

Plants 576

Gardening for Beginners
The winter treat-
ment of flower
borders .. .. 577
Tender plants in
cold frames . , 577
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens

For Northern gar-
dens

New rules for entering
UalTodils for awards
Answers to Corre-
spondents
Flower garden . . 579
Greenhouse .. .. 579
Miscellaneous . . 579
SoriF.TiEs 580

578
578
579

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Coprinus comatus, a fungus that secreles a ferment

ii^ed as a cure for silver-leaf disease 571

Ntrreum purpureum on stem of Apple 571

The beginning of a rock carden 572

Plan of sundial pedestal and bed for olJ-world flower'^ 573

F'>liage plants in a Surrey garden 574

rhrysanthemums in tubs in the pleasure grounds . . 575

The new Cypripedium Olympus 576

A border of hardy flowers 577

BDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notesj
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endearouT to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photograplts, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must 6'! distinctly understood that onUj the actual photo-
tjrnpher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor imll not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
iirticte is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
/" recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tacistocl: Street, Coient Garden. W.C.

A Brilliant Torch Lily. — The variety Nelsoni
is one of the most interesting of dwarf-growing
varieties of Kniphofias. It is not more than 2 feet
high, very floriferous, and has elegant grassy foliage,
against which the bright flame-coloured blossoms
contrast admirably.

Useful Flower for Cutting. — Heliopsis scabra
excelsa is a dwarf-growing form of this autumn-
flowering subject, much in advance of the ordinary
type. The blossoms are quite circular, thoroughly
imbricated, and of a rich orange yellow colour.
Early in June the flowers open, and they last quite
fresh imtil the end of September — a remarkably
long period. In a cut state flowers of this variety
have been known to last six weeks in a fresh
condition.

Rolling Lawns. — There is a tendency at this
season to overlook the immense value of rolling
lawns. This is really very essential ; and now
that the lawns are not being mown, the heavy
roller should be used as often as possible, more
especially while the weather is open. A loose-
surfaced lawn is productive only of soft and easily-
damaged grass, while a lawn that is kept quite
solid by regular rolling produces finer grass, which
will stand much more wear.

Potentilla Gibson's Scarlet. — For its colour
alone this remarkable plant should be grown by
all, the dazzling or brilliant scarlet of its flowers
being probably imique. The plant, too, is a great
bloomer, of ideal hardiness, not given to fastidious-
ness, and, being comparatively dwarf-growing,
is useful in the small or the large border. At no
time is the herbaceous flower border overdone
with scarlet ; hence so good a plant is doubly
welcome. Increased by division or by seeds.

A Chinese Shrub with Black Fruits. — So many

of our ornamental fruiting trees and shrubs have red,
orange or yellow fruits that those with fruits of
some other colour should receive consideration.
Though of little or no value as a flowering shrub,
Eleutherococcus (Acanthopanax) Henryii has very
ornamental black fruits in autumn. Growing about
five feet in height, the bushes are very attractive
in autumn when laden with closely-packed heads
of jet black fruits. There are also two other
species with ornamental black fruits, natives of
China, viz., E. leucorrhizus and E. sessiliflorum.
A shrubbery border containing these and other
fruiting shrubs has many admirers.

The Strawberry Tree (Arbutus Unedo).— This
subject surpasses many other shrubs {rom an
ornamental point of view. It flowers at a time
when the majority of other shrubs have long
passed. It is interesting as one of the very few
plants that bloom at the same time as they bear
the fruit of the previous year. At this time of the
year it is laden with its terminal, racemose panicles
of white flowers and its Strawberry - shaped
scarlet fruits, both of which are very handsome.

Its variety rubra, generally known as .Arbutus
Croomii, is an even more desirable plant, with
much larger flowers of a beautiful rosy carmine
colour ,ind larger, dark green foliage.

A Beautiful Late-Flowering Monkshood. —

A plant worthy of a place in the herbaceous-border
is Aconitum Autumn Glory, a beautiful late-
flowering variety of the well-known A. chinensis.
The flowers are not only later, but larger and of
a lighter blue. A colony of this plant flowering
at the present time is verv inleresling.

Protecting Dwarf Roses. — In gardens near
the coast, dwarf Roses do not often suffer from
the effects of frost, but in many localities it is an
annual struggle to bring many varieties of Teas
and Hybrid Teas safely through the winter ; and
as severe frost may now occur at any time, it is
well to be prepared. The aim should be to break
the current of cold air and still afford the plants
a certain amount of air and light. For this double
purpose Bracken or Wheat straw littered loosely
in among the plants will be found very suitable.

Winter-Blooming Wallflowers. — Plants of the
Early Paris Wallflower raised from seed sown last
May are now giving their fragrant flowers. But
it will be found advisable to cut the first spikes,
as it encourages the plants to send out side growths,
which will soon produce flowers and continue
throughout the winter, providing the weather is not
severe and the plants are given a warm, sheltered
comer. These plants, if lifted carefully now
and put in pots, will make valuable subjects for
decorating the conservatory or cold greenhouse

Sea Holly with Tall Stems.— The Sea Hollies,
or Eryngiums, are quite an interesting family
of plants, many of them being of an ornamental
character. One of the most conspicuous at the
present time is Eryngium pandanifolium. It
might well be called a hardy Pandanus, or Screw
Pine, which it very much resembles with its hand-
some rosettes of glaucous leaves. At the present
time it is bearing its tall panicles of flowers, which
are arranged in globose heads of a purplish colour,
and often attain a height of from 10 feet to
13 feet.

A Spir2ea for the Rock Garden. — There are
not many Spiraeas — herbaceous or shrubby —
that one would care to recommend for cultivation
in the rock garden, though in the case of S. digi-
tata nana — provided the true plant is obtained — it
may be done with absolute confidence. In other
words, this very channing plant, of not more than
9 inches high, is in the nature of an alpine, and
because of its dwarfness and effective appearance
is well suited to associate with alpine vegetation.
The true plant is probably still quite scarce, and
spurious forms have been distributed. No one,
however, having once seen this pretty variety,
endowed with dainty flowers of soft rosy pink,
would ever forget its elegant beauty. The plant
should be given a position of uniform coolness
or moisture. Best increased by division in spring.

570

THE GARDEN.

[November 15, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsibU for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

The Almond in Scotland.— Referring to the

note by " Caledonia" on page 558 of November 8
issue, the common Almond is quite hardy in tliis
district, and there have been trees in the locality
for many years. ■ I grow the double variety in
this garden, where it has been for more than .eight
years. The dwarf Almond is also hardy, and I
have cultivated both it and the variety besseriana
for a long time. — S. Arxott. Sunnymead, Dumfries.
Treatment of Dracaena australis. — As an experi-
ment, I planted out in the open garden a Dracaena
last year. The soil here is a very heavy, cold clay,
and I was rather afraid the Dracaena would suffer
and probably rot off at the roots. The only pro-
tection it had was some straw at the base and some
old sacking wrapped fairly tightly round the plant.
On April 20 of this year I took off its " winter
coat," and it has thrown some splendid new spikes.
True, last winter was a mild one, with no prolonged
spell of frost. Perhaps this accounts for its
survival.— T. C. F. M., West Horsliam.

ago iu Gunnersbury House Gardens, .A.cton, where
Nerine Bowdenii thrives in company with the
Belladonna Lily under a sunny greenhouse wall and
makes a most interesting featiure. — C. Q.

Bracken as a Vegetable. — On reading in the
Times of November 3 about the destruction of
Bracken, I thought what a great pity it is (especially
in these " vegetarian craze " days) that the value
of young Bracken fronds when 3 inches to 6 inches
high is not more generally known here as it is
in India and Japan, for, instead of wasting and
destroying the plants, it would be sent to market
bundled as Asparagus is, and would furnish a
welcome addition to our springtime vegetables.
I append the method of cooking, which I have
tried and proved to be successful. Take young,
closely-curled Bracken fronds when about three
inches to six inches high (or a httle more), choosing
the thickest and most green and tender ones.
Stand the freshly-cut ends for about two hours
in water in which a little ordinary kitchen soda
has been dissolved. This draws out any slight
occasional bitterness and generally improves the
flavour. Rinse the stems in fresh water. Tifl
lightly in bundles, and proceed to cook and serve

NERINE BOWDENII FLOWERING IN THE OPEN AT GUNNERSBURY.

Nerine Bowdenii Flowering Out of Doors.—

There appears to be a general impression that
Nerines are tender subjects, only to be grown under
glass, and the recent observations in the columns
of The Garden all tend to support this view.
For instance, Mr. F. Herbert Chapman writes on
page 534, October 25 issue: "it would be well if some
of the amateurs who now devote the whole of their
glasshouses in autumn to Chrysanthemums could
be induced to take up Nerines," and he overlooks
the fact that at least some ot the Nerines may be
grown entirely out of doors. Mr. Elwes, in his
widely-appreciated article which appeared in your
issue for September r3, says: "In the warmest
parts of England Nerines may be grown fairly well
in a cold frame all the year round, but in my
experience better in pots than planted out, as I
have never seen them in perfectiop so treated."
One is led to wonder if Mr. Elwes has planted out
of doors the comparatively new but very charming
Nerine Bowdenii, which, by the way, he does not
consider a desirable parent of hybrids owing to the
irregular shape of the perianth segments. That
this species will not only grow, but will flower
profusely out of doors is clearly shown in the accom-
panying illustration. This was taken a few weeks

exactly like Asparagus, which it greatly resembles.
— -Anne Amateur.
Primula Poissoni at Clandon Park. — On

November 9 we were privileged to see Primula
Poissoni flowering in great profusion in the Primula
Dell at Clandon Park. This recent introduction
from Chma is evidently a vigorous grower, but its
great value is seen in the masses of lilac purple
flowers that are produced over a long season.
Mr, Blake, the able gardener of Clandon Park,
who takes the greatest pride in the hardy Primulas
grown there, writes : " I am sending you a few
flower -spikes of Primula Poissoni. Now, these
have been in flower continuously since April ; in
fact, the flower-spikes were cut down by the last
frost we had late in April. The spikes were then
about a foot high. Since that time they have con-
tinually thrown up spikes ot bloom, and never has
the bloom been finer than at the present time.
Moreover, the colour is deeper than at any time
during the summer. What to me is the most
wonderful of all is that new flower-spikes continue
to be thrown up in all stages. Of course, the first
stiff frost will settle matters effectually ; but, so
far as my experience goes, there is no Primula that
flowers as freely and continuously as does this one.

I wonder if otlier readers of your widely-read paper
have had the same experience. The plants are two
years old from the date of sowing. It has never
been out of bloom, but certainly has been improving.
It takes along time to ripen its seed, and yesterday
was the first time I was able to gather any."

Lime-hating Campanulas. — Yes ; the history
of my relations with Campanula pulla is precisely
as Mr. Murray HomibroolcJias guessed (see page 346,
November i issue). I followed blindly and faith-
fully the authority of Mr. Robinson, doing absolute
reverence to his word in default of any correcting
experience of my own. And the reward of my
piety was long and sedulous failure, broken .only
by brief and partial gleams of success. I still did
not dare to trace these tragedies to any source of
error at the foimtam head, nor did the various
floras that include C. pulla give any enlightening
indication. But in 1911 I went East into the
Styrian limestones for Dianthus alpinus and
Primula clusiana. The first bonus that that
astounding mountam yielded me in the first five
minutes was Campanula alpina ; the second,
Viola alpma ; and the third was Campanula pulla,
growing along the fallen limestone blocks in the
black humus of a little gully. I came home
enlightened ; from that moment C. pulla throve
with me in a mixture of peat with my ordinary
loam. But the next year I again returned to
Styria, and this time, higher up the mountain,
I found C. pulla in wide mats in the limestone
screes below the summit ridge, luxuriating here
in a stiff and heavy yellow loam devoid of any
element of peat. So now I take no further thought
at all for C. pulla. It goes straight into my
orduiary rock garden soil, in any cool ledge desired,
and there it straightway increases and rims riot
like a happy weed. With regard to C. excisa, I
am not at all sure that this plant is not really
a much more intractable lime-hater than C. alpestris
(Allionii). It grows best in absolutely pure granitic
sand among river boulders high up on the northern
and the southern slopes of Monte Rosa. In
cultivation, Mr. Bowles has made it an irrepressible
weed in a bed of beautiful spongy, loose soil — two
parts coarse sand and one part of riddled leaf-
mould — with water flowing beneath. With me,
however, this treatment has not yet answered, and
my best patch gives me the lie at present by sprout-
ing voluminously in a part of the bed devoted to
lime, in chips and rubble, for the benefit of Saxi-
fraga burseriana and C. Zoysii. With regard to Mr.
Amott's series of notes on Campanula, it is
ungracious to look so charming a gift-horse in the
mouth ; but in the interests of those lov«ly plants
themselves and their worshippers, I must really
be allowed to askfor fuller descriptions if these are
to be of general help, and also to suggest that too
faithful and unconsidered a followmg of catalogue
names, when the original authorities lie so ready
to hand, is not the best way, perhaps, of rescuing
us from that sea of confusion m which catalogues
have plunged us. For some instances, in one page :
C. stenocodon has no reference to C. pusiUa, but is
a variety or subspecies of C. rotundifolia ;
C. tridentata is specifically different from C. Saxi-
fraga, and easily recognisable ; C. valdensis is
another subspecies of C. rotundifolia — this is the
downy plant, with big purple bells. But Mr. Amott's
account of its second " form " looks very
suspiciously like the genuine C. caespitosa (Scop.),
which Mr. Amott has so cruelly wronged by
obliterating it into the name of the wholly different
C. pusilla (Haenke) ; and, finally, I shall be
mterested to lear.i how the true C. uniflora
resembles C. excisa, — Reginald Farrer,

NOVEMKEK 15, I9I3.

THE GARDEN.

571

COPRINUS COMATUS, A FUNGUS THAT
SECRETES A FERMENT USF.D AS A CURE
FOR SILVER-LEAF DISEASE.

Rose Chateau de Clos Vougeot. — This fine

Hybrid Tea Rose was very good in tlie second week
in October in a Dumfriesshire garden high up among
the moors and hills, and. apart from its beauty,
it has the possession of fragrance in a degree not
often to be found among the newer Roses. It
is one of the most fragrant of Roses, and one of
the most delightful of the dark varieties of its
class. It may be too deep in colour for the taste
of many who prefer light-coloured Roses, but it
is such a good Rose that it deserves consideration.
It is well described as velvety scarlet, shading to
fiery scarlet and changing to dark crimson. It
is a capital bedding Rose, and flowers freely and
long, and is such a favourite in the garden referred
to, where good Roses are appreciated, that it is
to be more largely grown. It was sent out in
1908. — S. Arnott.

War on Wasps. — Regarding the plague of wasps
and the remedy, we have found it very successful
to offer prizes at our local flower show for the
greatest number of queen wasps and the greatest
number of nests. If the prizes are fairly good,
there are plenty of entries. In the case of the
wasp nests, they were not exhibited at the show,
but brought in as found to a member of the com-
mittee, who credited the bringer with the number
and burnt the nests. Over fifty were taken round
this house, with the result that, as far as we were
concerned, we had no plague, although a mile away
it was the worst year on record. — Edward M.
Hadow, Uffington Vicarage, Berks.

In reference to Mr. Copeland's question.

No. 3, under the above heading, page 534, the
following note may be of interest to him : We
had matted some Currant bushes to preserve the
fruit. On uncovering one of them rather late
in the year, I found a large number of queen
wasps in the folds of the mat. It is a good many

years since, and I cannot now say with certainty
how many there were. Being in a semi-torpid
state, they were easily disposed of. It is well
known that queen wasps often take shelter during
the winter in any warm, dry article that happens
to be hanging undisturbed for a time, so it might
be worth while to loosely fold pieces of garden
matting or sacking and place them where they can
be kept dry. If the experiment does not succeed
as regards wasps, there will certainly be some
earwigs. — Thomas Smith, Wislbury-on-Trym.

A Wallflower for Bedding. — To those on the
look-out for a first-class plant for bedding or
massing, and one out of the ordinary, I can strongly
recommend Cheiranthus .Mlionii. It commences
to bloom in May, and, providing it is kept from
seeding, will continue to give masses of its sweet-
scented orange blooms the whole summer long.
Although a perennial, I always treat it as a biennial,
planting out strong seedlings each autumn i foot
apart. It is a plant that requires a fair amount
of manure, with an occasional dusting of a good
artificial during the summer. Treated thus, the
blooms will be twice the size of those one generally
sees on plants growing on rockeries. For massing
in front of borders it is fine, its beautiful orange
colour blending well with all its neighbours, and its
agreeably sweet scent invades the whole garden.
We grow a variety called C. superbus, a much im-
proved form sent out by Messrs. Barr. — !•". Woods,
Hal field Park

The Best White Rose for Bedding.— I have
just received my September 6 edition of The
Garden. I notice Mr. Molyneu.x asks for ideas
as to which is the best white Rose for bedding.
After considering the notes made by Mr. Molyneux,
may I place my choice as follows : Elaine, The
Bride, Mrs. Foley Hobbs and Molly Sharman
Crawford ? The first-named Rose does well with
me, and I have a nice bed of it. The plants are
ver>' floriferous ; the blooms come a lovely shape.
They are not such a pure white as the other three
mentioned, being very slightly tinted cream,
but the plants make a fine bed. The Bride is
grown out here very extensively on its own roots,
and a bed of it in February — our best flowering
month — is a sight. Kept low it is splendid, but
it is inclined to make rather a big bush with us.
The last two mentioned I have only had for two
seasons, but I should say they would be very good
white bedding Roses in the United Kingdom.
They make nice beds with me, and I have had
some fine blooms from both. White Maman
Cochet we all know, but the drooping habit of the
flower debars it from being a good Rose. My
Roses are grown in a temperature varying from
60° to 88° Fahr. and within 20 yards of the sea.
.^s to the last statement I am well aware, for on
Saptember 18 a typhoon swept away over two
hundred of my favourites. — R. A. Nicholson,
Hong Kong.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

November 18. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Exhibition. Chrysanthemum Show at Wokingham.

November 19. — Jubilee Show at Bristol (two
days). Shows at Newcastle (two days), Woolton,
and Hull (two days).

November 20. — Norfolk and Norwich Chry-
santhemum Show (three days). Shows at Bamsley
(two days) and Paisley.

November 21. — Shows at Dundee, Blackburn,
Bolton, Dunfermline, Stockport (all two days) and
Kilmarnock.

THE SILVER-LEAF DISEASE
OF FRUIT TREES.

ITS CAUSE AND PREVENTION.

THIS disease, well known to attack and
even to destroy the Plum, especially
in the case of certain varieties like
the Victoria and Czar, is easily recog-
nised by a silvering of the upper
surface of the leaf, from which it takes
its name. It is a condition which may be due to
different causes, but which, in probably 99 per
cent, of cases that occur among fruit trees, is due
to a common fungus, known as Stereura purpureum.
The spores of this fungus are able to grow wherever
they find a wound ; they soon germinate, and
give rise to a mycelium or spawn, strictly the same
as the spawn of Mushroom, which travels through
the wood and in a short time affects the leaves.
It does not follow that the spawn itself has reached
the leaves, for the effect, in the case of a Victoria
Plum, has been produced at a considerable distance
beyond the region attained by the spawn or myce-
lium. In the case of one experiment, out of fifteen
inoculations made in February, twelve resulted
in silvering by the middle of May. An inoculation of
a Victoria Plum in August, 1912, resulted in silvering
five weeks later. This common cause of silvering
— indeed, quite the commonest — was made known
by Percival in igo2. (See Journal of the Linnean
Society, Vol, XXXV., page 390.) Since then
other experiments have been made, particularly
by Mr. F. T. Brooks, M.A„ of the School of Botany
at Cambridge, and it is one of his remarkable
demonstrations in the Cambridge Botanic Garden
that leads to this note. In a group of young trees
the sih^ered branches are easily picked out from
among others that bear only green, healthy leaves,
and, by following the shoot down, there is invariably
found the label whicli records inoculation.

STEREUM PURPUREUM ON STEM OF APPLE. THIS
IS THE FUNGUS THAT CAUSES SILVER-LEAF
DISEASE,

I

572

THE GARDEN.

[November 15, 1913.

Silver-leaf a Comparatively Recent Disease.—

It 15 remarkable that until recent years little
notice appears to have been taken of this disease.
I find no remark about it in works I have on fruit
cultivation ; indeed, in Thompson's " Assistant "
it is said that the Plum is liable only to gumming.
The true cause at first does not seem to have been
accepted. It was pointed out in 1902. In 1906
Dr. Cook, in " Fungoid Pests of Cultivated Plants,"
page 135, says: "We must still regard ourselves
as sceptical as to whether Stereum is the cause
of silver-leaf " ; and Mr. Massee, in the same year,
says : " I know absolutely nothing about sUver-
leaf." In 1908, in Messrs. Bunyard's Nursery, I
believe by Mr. Bunyard, jun., I was informed that
silver-leaf was due to injury. This was near the
mark, but mechanical injury by itself is unlikely
to produce such a result, and only an agent
like Stereum was required to complete an
explanation.

Other Causes of Silver-leaf. — It may be
said now that this cause has been proved for
Plums, and that no other is known,
though cases have occurred which do
require another explanation. Mr.
Brooks mentions the silvering of
seedling Plums which could not be
attributed to the action of Stereum,
and it is unlikely to cause silvering
in the case of the White Dead Nettle.
It has been known, too, in the case of
Apple shoots which have been cut
from healthy trees and kept in the
air for a short time. While not the
cause in these instances, it may reason-
ably be regarded as the cause in the
case of certain trees and shrubs that
are not allied to the Plum, as, for
instance. Red Currant and Laburnum,
upon which the sporophores or fructifi-
cations of Stereum were found. La-
burnum, indeed, has been silvereu
by infection from the Plum, and a
Whinham's Industry Gooseberry bush,
inoculated during igii, became
silvered during 1912. Stereum may
thus affect a variety of trees — Por-
tugal Laurel I remember to have
suffered in this garden — and it is
important to mention that although
Mr. Brooks has seen few adult Apple
trees showing silver-leaf, he has fre-
quently found scions of regrafted
trees that are silvered. He describes
a group of Blenheim Orange Apple trees that
were regrafted with scions of either the Grena-
dier or Jubilee variety three years ago. The
grafts grew until the spring of 1912, when those
on twelve of the trees rapidly died. When
the trees were examined in August, 1912, each
stock showed innumerable sporophores or fructifica-
tions of Stereum purpureum growing from the
bark. It should be remembered that while silver-
leaf in a fruit tree may be held almost with absolute
certainty to indicate the presence of Stereum, it
does not follow that that Stereum necessarily
produces silver-leaf. Mr. Brooks beheves that the
manifestation depends partly upon leaf structure,
and in cases mentioned silver-leaf did not result,
though Stereum had made considerable progress
in the tissues. Apple and Beech trees that were
probably killed by Stereum did not show the
phenomenon. R. Irwin Lynch.

Botanic Garden, Cambridge.

[To be continued.)

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

I

THE DESIGNING, CONSTRUCTION
AND PLANTING OF ROCK GARDENS.

F there is one subject that has, more than
others, received too much attention from
a journalistic point of view, one would
think it is that of the rock garden and its
kindred associations. Volume on volume,
article on article, have been poured forth
in season and out of season, all professing to deal
with one phase or another. Where there is such
an unlimited supply of literature on one subject,
it is possible, even probable, that some of it gets
read. I do not propose to apologise for adding
to the pile, because, although one may choose to
write, it is by no means a guarantee that there
are those who will choose to read. Those who
do not will need no apology. Those who do
have it in their power to curtail the perusal of
these articles at the exact point at which they

THE BEGINNING OF A ROCK GARDEN.

This Stone, weighing 779 tons, and conlainin^ 9,720 cubic feet, was
the result of blasting out slone for rock gardens at the Stancliffe
Qtiairies, near Darley Dale. Derbyshire.

cease to interest them. May I say definitely here
what I believe to be the real and most important
faculty that is necessary for the successful arrange-
ment of not only rock and water gardens, but
every other form of landscape treatment. It is
a sense of, and power of, composition — the power
to judge of the sympathetic and harmonious rela-
tion of one feature to another, whether it be masses
of rock, grouping of shrubs and trees, combination
of colour, or the association of other suitable
vegetation. However, despite the fact that this
sense is lacking in many of us, there are, 'I believe,
some simple rules that, carefully followed, render
it quite possible for most of us to construct a success-
ful rock garden, that may possess many faults,
it is true, but that mil not only provide many happy
hours, but also (but not by any means the least
of the uses of a rock garden, but one that is, tm-
fortunately, often overlooked) a happy home for
the innumerable species and varieties of alpine
plants now in cultivation. It is my intention to

take the reader through the elementary processes
of preparing such a garden in the sequence in which
they would arise in the progress of the work,
viz., (i) Selection of site and design ; (2) Selection
of stone ; (3) Arrangement of stone ; and (4) Soils
and planting.

Choice of Site. — Mr. William Robinson has
given it as an axiom that the rock garden should
be " as far removed as possible from the house,"
and I remember he took particular care to impress
this on me during a brief conversation I had
with him at the International Show at Chelsea
last year. Now let me say at once that there is
no man living (perhaps few dead) to whom, in my
opinion, the horticultural world owes greater
respect, admiration and gratitude than to Mr.
Robinson, and none shares more ardently in the
general tribute paid to his work than I do ; but I
think this particular assertion of his is calculated
to be a little misleading. The rock garden should
be in the most suitable position, even though the
drawing-room window looks straight upon it,
and the most suitable position is deter-
mined not by the proximity to the
house, but by the application of a har-
monious design to an applicable site.
True, it frequently happens that the most
suitable site occurs at a point that is a
considerable distance from the house,
because, generally speaking, the further
one gets from the domicile the nearer one
gets to natural conditions, and, conse-
quently, the more at home seems the
rock garden ; but it is not imperative
that natural conditions should in every
case be driven to the furthest extremity
of the grounds, whether it be of man-
sion, villa or cottage. I have recently
come across charming dells and sloping
banks in quite close proximity to the
residence of the owner that were ideal
situations for the introduction of rock
outcrop among masses of low-growing
shrubs and other plants. It is quite
impossible to enumerate all the sites
that are suitable, so it will be better
to look at some of them in combination
with the question of design. There is
(and reference to the best-known autho-
rities will verify this) a particular style
of formation that is so eminently suit-
able for any given site that in nine
cases out of ten the environment itself
determines the ultimate design, and the
only satisfactory method of illustrating this will be
to take actual conditions with which I have person-
ally come in contact, and by description and a few
simple sketches place before readers the best method
of achieving the most successful results under those
conditions.

Colchester. George Dillistone.

(To he continued.)

LITHOSPERMUM PROSTRATUM
FLOWERING LATE.

This lovely rock plant is still blooming away,
unharmed in its flowers by frosts, which have cut.
down the Dahlias and have injured some of the
Chrysanthemums. Other rock plants in bloom
are few and far between, but L. prostratum is
quite happy, and is giving quite a number of its
fine blue flowers. It is so frequently mentioned
that one need do little piore than call attention to
its late flowering,

Dumfries. S. Arnott.

Xdvember 15, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

573

A QUAINT AND
INEXPENSIVE SUNDIAL.

THERE was a time when the sundial
was introduced into the garden for
the purpose of measuring the time.
To-day it has become merely a garden
ornament, a centre from which diverg-
ing paths radiate, or the central axis
of a formal design. It introduces into the garden
a more or less romantic note of association with
the past, and appeals to the same sense of apprecia-
tion as old buildings, old furniture, and everything
else that has come to us from bygone days. The
sight of one calls up memories of the sweet old-
world flowers of Chaucer and Shakespeare : the
Sweet Brier, Pinks, Gilliflowers, Lavender, Rose-
mary, Columbine, and " Roses damask and red "
of Bacon.

The design for a sundial pedestal in the accom-
panyinK illustration is not meant for the garden

Ou O QUICK.

attractive. The
same idea can be
successfully adopted
to create pedestals
for small lead
figures, and can
easily be worked
into circular, hexa-
gonal or octagonal
shapes. Old bricks
and tiles are recom-
mended, not be-
cause they are
cheapest, but be-
cause the discolora-
tion of age on them
gives the best re-
sults. A sundial plate can be obtained for a
few shillings, and even though it was made in
Birmingham last week and will probably bear a
date about 1647, no one will mind the date
being false ; in fact, if a genuine old dial were
obtained, who would believe in its
antiquity ? G. D.

.- Rx

THE ROSE GARDEN.

SECTIONAL DIAGRAM OF SUNDIAL PEDESTAL.

productions of its raisers. It is not easy to
find a fault with it. A good grower, flowers
of excellent shape and refined character, deep
cream in colour and fragrant. Hardly subject to
mildew. Very strongly recommended to the
exhibitor.

Margaret (William Paul and Son, 1909). —
Little, but good. A pretty Rose that comes
easily, frequently and well. Not quite large enough,
perhaps, to be a very useful Rose to the exhibitor.
A Killamey-like Rose with rather more petals,
not quite so vigorous a grower, and not so subject
to mildew. It has been flowering all the season
with me, and its plants are still carrying blooms,
November though it is.

Marquise de Ganay (P. Guillot, 1910). — A large
flower, silvery rose in colour, that has been fre-
quently exhibited. It is a good grower, very
free, and should be made a note of as one
of the most promising of the Continental-raised
Roses.

May Kenyon Slaney (Alex. Dickson and Sons,
1910). — To those who like variety in shape m their
blooms, so that the whole box is not of the pointed
persuasion, this Rose can be recommended. I
had a fine large flower of it in a box of twelve at
Southampton in June last. It is globular rather

PL (AN

IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.

Notes on Newer Roses.

[Continued from page 562.)

HYBRID TEAS FOR EXHIBITION.

Lieutenant Chaure (PeriKt-Ducher,

1910). — Another possible — hardly a

probable — Rose to figure often in

the exhibition box, and then only as

a tront-row flower. It did find its

way into one or two boxes at the

■' National," but it was in the seventy-
two and forty-eight classes, and rt will

very seldom be large enough to get

into the twelves. It is a good colour,

rather brighter than either of its

parents, reported to be Etoile de

France and Liberty. A believer in the than pointed, pale blush pink on a cream ground

hereditary tendency is not likely, 'h^' deepens with age, and in the autumn is very

much deeper in colour. A good grower, not
subject to mildew, and very free - flowering.

therefore, to expect much from Lieu-
tenant Chaure, but it was one of the
twenty new Hybrid Teas selected by ; Fragrant.

PLAN OF SUNDIAL PEDESTAL AND BED FOR OLD
WORLD FLOWERS.

of noble proportions or for the embellishment of
palatial surroundings, but is simply a quaint and
pretty idea that can be introduced into the tiniest
cottage garden at little expense and with certain
success. It is meant for those who love their
gardens so much that they like to do things them-
selves, and as such is purely a " gardener's "
sundial rather than a pretentious work of masonry
(" sculpture " is, I believe, the word generally used).
Just a few old bricks and thin roofing tiles, a short
piece of iron pipe, two or three pieces of paving,
and a little cement darkened by the addition
of a little lampblack are all that is necessary ; the
joints should be quite dark. Round the centre plant
a mixture of old-world plants, such as a pink
Monthly Rose, two or three plants of Lavender, some
Catmint, Thyme, and any old-fashioned odds and
ends there is room for. If the sundial forms
the terminal of a path between two borders,
brick, on edge, paths are comfortable and dry,
and when the joints are green with moss, grass,
a dwarf Sedum, or creeping Thyme, are very

Mr. Mawley to be placed in order of
merit. I believe I placed it at the
bottom, or very near it, so that it is
evident I do not think very highly of it

for this purpose. It is a good garden Rose, however.
Mabel Drew (Alex. Dickson and Sons, iqii). —

This Rose was also

included in that list,

but figured at

the other end ; in

fact, I placed Mabel

Drew second, George

Dickson only beating

it, and 1 shall be

very much surprised

if that is not the

general opinion. It is

a gold medal Rose,

won at Salisbury ui

1910, and has won

for itself already a

reputation that cer-
tainly entitles one to

call it one of the best

of the new Roses

and one of the best

Mrs. Amy Hammond (S. McGredy and Son,
1911). — One of the very best all-round Roses of
recent introduction. Grown for exhibition, it
produces a magnificent flower ; grown for garden
decoration, it has all the points necessary for that
purpose. Large flowers, borne on long footstalks,

i^LEVATIDlN

DIAGRAM SHOWING ELEVATION OF SUNDIAL PEDESTAL.
{Scale of each illustration : Half an inch := one foot.)

574

THE GARDEN.

[NOVKMBER 15, 1913.

very freely produced, in flower here from May to
November. I do not know what place it will
take in Mr. Mawley's Analysis, but I place it easily
in the iirst half-dozen of the newer Roses. Those
who have not got it should get it. A larger and
fuller Pharisaer with a peach (the rosarian's
tint) flush that is not easy to describe. One cannot
speak too highly of it. Vigorous, branching habit,
very free-flowering and sweetly scented, it stands
all weathers, and is as beautiful now in November
as were its flowers in June. Messrs. McGredy
have given us many beautiful Roses, and this
is entitled to be called one of the best. It should
be in every garden ; certainly i"
every Rose garden.
Mrs. Arthur E. Coxhead

(S. McGredy and Sons, 1910). — .

No Rose of recent introduction
has found its way into so many

gardens as this one, and the

reason is not far to seek. I have
never yet seen a split flower of

Mrs. A. E. Coxhead. It always

comes good. Notwithstanding

the severe handicap of its bad

colour, I expect to find it very

high up in Mr. Mawley's list.

I placed it third in order of

merit. Those who say the new

Roses have no scent should try

Mrs. A. E. Coxhead, and then

hang their heads with shame.

It is particularly good in the

autumn, too, and is a reliable

Rose all through the season.

If only the colour had been a

little more pleasing ! The raisers

call it claret red, but there is

no claret and very little red. I

should call it a deep magenta

puce, and the only time it has

any pretence to good colour is

under electric light. It bears the

name of the wife of one of the

keenest amateur rosarians that it

has been my good fortune to

meet, who, unfortunately, has to

grow his Roses within the five-
mile radius of Charing Cross,

but whose garden is a triumph

over difficulties too numerous to

mention.

Mrs. Andrew Carnegie (Cocker,

^913). — I have not grown this
Rose, so can say nothing as to
its behaviour ; but I have had a
great number of enquiries, to
all of which I have given the
same answer. I do not think an
outdoor-grown flower has been
staged in the South.

Mrs. Arthur Munt (Alex. Dickson and Sons,
1909). — An ivory tinted white flower of excellent
shape, but not often large enough to stage. It
is reliable, free-flowering, a fine autumnal variety,
mildew-proof and scented, of Tea-like appearance
and growth.

Mrs. Charles Custis Harrison (Alex. Dickson
and Sons, 1910). — I mention this for its colou:
alone, a very warm, deep, almost crimson pink
that lights up the spot it grows on in a wonderful
fashion, and is very telling in the box if you can
get it big enough. It is free-flowering, fragrant
and a good grower, and a note should be made
of It by those who like strong colours.

Mrs. Charles E. Allen (Hugh Dickson and

Sons, 1911). — A very beautiful Rose, but not,
I am afraid, large enough.

Mrs. Charles E. Pearson (S. McGredy and

Sons, 1913). — To this I must say the same.
I will refer to both of these varieties under the
decorative Roses.

Mrs. CornwalllS-West (Alex. Dickson and Sons,
1911). — This is quite another matter. Here we
have a magnificent exhibition variety. Easy to
grow, easy to show and a very beautiful Rose,
although it is not of the orthodox pointed shape
with guard petals, but is globular, almost round.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

FOLIAGE PLANTS^ FOR THE WATER-
SIDE.

THE accompanying illustration should,
I think, serve to impress upon readers
fhe beauty of certain well-known
plants from the point of view of foliage.
The Water Lily is Nymphaea Marliacea
alba. Although no flowers happen to
appear in the illustration, this Water Lily is, in my
opinion, quite one of the best for all-round effect.
It gives each year during a lengthy
period a great number of large
and perfect blossoms, hard to
excel for lustre and purity. It is
often urged that this Water Lily
is too large for small ponds. The
remedy is simple. If the outer
leaves are cut off, the crowded
inner leaves will quickly fall flat
to take their place. In the fore-
ground of the illustration on the
left is the common wild yellow
Flag, Iris Pseudacorus. It will be
noticed what a magnificent foliage
plant this Iris makes when grown
actually in the water. In the
background are Iris sibirica and its
variety Snow Queen. The Primula
growing upon the edge of the
water is P. japonica, and is of a
naming vermilion colour. The
tree in the background is Prunus
Pissardii, W'hich I consider a fault-
less subject from every point of
view — growth, foliage and flower.
It would scarcely be believed at
first sight that the pond is an
artificial one, but such is the fact.
Surelv this method of construction
is more beautiful than the un-
natural arrangement which one
commonly sees in gardens.

Raymond E. Negus.
Witlton-nii'Thames.

FOLIAGE PLANTS PROPLKLV .\KK.^NGED BV AN AKTIIH.
IN A SURREY GARDEN.

The petals are of great substance. The colour is
delicate ivory white, with a maiden's blush in
the centre of the flower. Wants to be cut yoimg
before it shows the centre. It is a good grower, with
free and branching habit, lovely foliage, not
subject to mildew, very often with seven leaves
instead of five. It has been well exhibited all
through the season, and all exhibitors should
get it if they have not tried it. It received
the gold medal at Salisbury in 1910. Ought
not this Rose to be named Lady Randolph
Churchill ?

Southampton. Herbert E. Molvnkux.

{To be cnntinufd.)

I HE NAMING OF TULIPS.

It has required Mr. Jacob's
" prod," as well as that of the
Editor, to cause me to put pen to
paper ye the naming of Tulips, not
because it was of no interest to
me — it is of very great interest,
as it must be to every large
grower of TuUps. I do not think
Mr. Jacob has any idea of the ex-
i.\i, POOL tent to which Tulips break in our

soU, and the cause of the breaking
is quite unknown to us. One
large grower told me that he attributes it to poor
cultivation ; but we are quite sure that that is
not the cause in our case. We have put eighty
tons of raw cow-manure to the acre on Tulip land,
and that cannot by any means be called poor
culture ; but the fact remains that nearly every
variety of Cottage and Darwin Tulip that we
cultivate has broken more or less. Sometimes
the breaks do not amount to more than one or
two bulbs per thousand, and in some seasons not
that ; but the season of 1912 gave us breaks
in some varieties amounting to 30 per cent., and
that is a serious matter to a market-grower, as
the flowers of the broken forms have little market

November 15, 191.-

THE GARDEN.

575

\alue as cut flowers, however much they may be
admired in the private garden. Many breaks are
too ugly to be of any value at all, and are only
lit to be thrown on the dust-heap, and that means
a depletion of stock without any return. Many
breaks are, however, in my estimation very beauti-
ful, and bound to meet with favour as they become
known. The process of propagation is slow,
and it takes several years to make sufficient stock
for sale.

Mr. Jacob speaks of the " break " as " the taking-
on their final striped appearance " ; but the stripe
is not " the final take-on," as the stripes occasionally
revert to selfs again, and it reqiiires several years'
selection to gain fixity. Again, the same variety
frequently breaks into two distinct forms, and
that seems to preclude Mr. Jacob's suggestion
that a break should carry the name of the variety
from which it comes. Clara Butt, for instance,
gives two quite distinct breaks, and over twenty
other Darwins have given two. Mr. Jacob surely
would not like to see in a catalogue
" Clara Butt Broken No. i," " Clara
Butt Broken No. z " ! It is the
amateur, however, who has to be
considered first in the matter of
nomenclature, and to the uninitiated
I think that to name all the breaks
after the parent would lead to endless
trouble and confusion ; the fact of
one name being connected with two
varieties would mislead very many.
If the name only applied to one or
two sorts, it would not matter much ;
but the repetition of so many names
would leaa to confusion.

I agree with Mr. Jacob that growers
should come to an agreement as to
the naming of breaks, and if the
trials at Wisley lead to uniformity of
nomenclature, we shall be glad to
have them. I think, however, it will
be found that Krelage's breaks are
totally distinct from those that have
occurred in England. We have grown
nearly all the Rembrandts that
Krelage catalogues, but have not
found one of them identical with our
own breaks. It is unfortunate that the
announcement of the trials at Wisley
was made so late in the season, as
all our stocks of breaks were
already planted. I am, however,
informed that the trials will be
continued over a period of two or
three years, and there will thus be an opportunity
of arriving at some definite conclusions in due
course, if all the growers are willing to send bulbs,
which I urgently request them to do.

Wiibech. G. W. Leak.

white variety Parisiana are seen. Good cultiva-
tion is, of course, necessary to produce profusely-
flowered specimen tubs. Three or four plants will
suffice to fill out quite a large tub. The training
of the plants requires much attention, and it is
important that the lower branches should be trained
at right angles to the tub, so that the blooms are
produced uniformly almost to the ground-level.
The value of Chrysanthemums in tubs in the
pleasure grounds can hardly be over-estimated,
producing as they do bright floral eiiects in the dull
days of autumn, when deciduous tfees are almost
bare of leaves.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

THE WINTER PRUNING OF TREES
AND SHRUBS.

Although a good deal of the pruning required
by trees and shrubs is carried on during the

only likely to break prematurely into growth on
those parts which will be cut away eventually
in the ordinary course.
Overgrown Shrubberies. — Winter is the time

to take such places m hand. Where a shrubbery
has been planted fairly thickly to create an imme-
diate effect, it is necessary to pay particular atten-
tion to pruning and thinning as soon as the plants
touch each other, else, in the course of a few years,
the majority will be spoiled. The best plan to
adopt is to go carefully through the shrubbery
and mark any plants that require moving bodily.
Then decide whether all are worth keeping. In
the event of a number being unsuitable for trans-
planting, cut them out and burn them at once.
Then remove the remainder. The permanent
plants may then receive attention, and a certain
amount of regulating and thinning will be neces-
sary. Whenever possible, branches should be
removed bodily instead of being shortened, and
on no account shorten branches in such a manner

CHRYSANTHEMUMS IX TUBS PLACED WITH GOOD EFFECT IX THE PLEASURE GROUNDS.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN TUBS.

We are so accustomed to the cultivation of Chrysan-
themums in pots for greenhouse and conservatory
use that we are apt to overlook the value of early
decorative varieties in the flower garden. A method
which has much to commend it is that of growing
Chrysanthemums in tubs, and when in flower to
stand them out in the pleasure grounds and flower
garden. It is surprising to see how one or two tubs
laden with blooms will brighten up the surround-
ing landscape if suitably placed. In Gimnersbury
House Gardens, Chrysanthemums in tubs are used
with telling effect, as depicted in the accompanying
illustration, in which two admirable tubs of the

spring or summer, a certain amount may be
done with profit during the winter months,
especially when it applies to overgrown shrub-
beries and l;u:ge - growing trees. The pruner
must, of course, use his discretion when dealing
with flowering trees and shrubs, for it would
be out of the question to prime those during
winter which blossom from the old wood, unless
the pruning consisted of a little thinning of crowded
branches ; but those shrubs which bloom on the
current year's wood, such as the summer-flowering
Spirjeas, Hypericums, Tamarix pentandra and
Hydrangea paniculata. may be pruned towards
the close of winter. Some people even prune
these subjects before the end of the year, but it
is not a good plan, for if a spell of very mild weather
is experienced after the pruning, the buds begin
to burst and the young shoots fall a prey to the
first frost ; whereas, in the event of the plants being
left unpruned until February, young shoots arc

as to leave an unnatural, globular outline to the
shrubs. Such pruning is often noticeable in
suburban gardens during late autumn and early
winter. A sudden mania arises for cleaning up
and pruning, and pruning frequently takes the
form of clipping all loose growths of small trees
and shrubs, so that they have a heavy, compact
appearance. The writer has seen Thorns, Bar-
berries, DierviUas, Privets, Mock Oranges and
other subjects all treated in this way. Needless
to say, there were no flowers the following year,
and the owners of the plants wondered why.
Evergreens which are to be transplanted may be
pruned at this time, though any general pruning
required by evergreens should be left until the
spring.

Old Trees. — But it is large-growing trees rather
than shrubs that offer work to the pruner at this
time of the year. On every large estate and in
almost every garden there are trees which contain

576

THE GARDEN.

[November 15, IQ13.

dead branches or show signs of decay, and such
trees may well be taken in hand during the winter.
Nothing detracts from the appearance of a garden
so much as dead and dying branches about the
trees, and numerous gardens which are otherwise
well kept offer this defect. A couple of men with
the necessary tools can make a considerable differ-
ence to the average garden in the course of a few
weeks. One man, however, must be a good
climber, for it is impossible to prune large trees
from ladders. When such trees as Oaks, Elms
and Sweet Chestnuts have become " stag-headed,"
or, in other words, their upper branches have
died, they may often be rejuvenated by removing
the dead parts to the highest living branchlets.
Care must be taken, however, to
preserve the natural outline of
the tree during the work, and in
some cases it may be necessary
to remove a branch much lower
than the highest living branchlet.
Where there is danger of injuring
anything beneath the tree by the
fall of the branches, it will be
necessary to sling the dead parts.
This is done by securing a rope
round the portion to be removed,
and fastening the other end round
the base of the trunk in such a
manner that when the branch is
cut away it will remain supported
by the tightened rope resting in a
fork between two of the upper
branches. It may then be lowered
to the ground without danger.
Branches about other parts of the
trees may be removed in a like
manner, but they must be cut
away eventually quite close to the
bark. Very heavy branches may
have to be removed in several
pieces. All wounds so made must
be dressed with coal-tar before leav-
ing, otherwise they will form a rest-
ing-place for the spores of parasitic
fungi.

Holes in trees may also be
stopped during the winter. Scrape
out as much of the dead wood as
possible and cut away the margins
of the holes until living wood is
found. Paint the decayed parts
with a strong solution of carbolic
acid ; then give a coat of tar and fill
the holes with cement, or, if they
are large, with deep cavities, with
a mi.xture of bricks and cement.
In some cases it may even be
desirable to build up the cavities THE NEW
with a brick wall. In any case
the work should be finished by
a smooth cap of cement, which, when dry,
may be tarred over or otherwise coloured to
render it less conspicuous. Decayed patches of
bark should be cut away to where living bark
is found. The wood beneath should be scraped
quite clean, and then be painted with carbolic
acid, finishing off with a coat of tjur. Fungous
growths which appear on trees should be collected
and burned as soon as they appear, for they are
a source of danger to other trees. Trees from
twenty to forty years old which are planted in the
open often require a little attention, which can
be given conveniently during the winter. The
branch system often becomes too dense and

interferes with the upward development of the
trees, or a number of leading shoots may appear
to each tree instead of one vigorous leader. In
such cases branches may be removed bodily close
to the trunk, and rival leaders may either be cut
clean out or be shortened. Lower branches of
trees which are interfering with the free uses of
lawns may be removed at this time also ; but in
carrying out this work care must be taken to leave
the branches of different trees at varying distances
from the ground, for, if all are removed to a general
height, the effect will be anything but pleasing.
It will thus be seen that any spare time which
may occur during the winter may be profitably
spent in work which will result in prolonging the

Chrysanthemum Daily Mail.— .\ handsome,
woU-built — even if a little informal — incurvmg
Japanese vaCriety, The florets are less formally
imbricated than in some ; hence the new-comer
does not please those who would have every floret
" so." Notwithstanding, it found many admirers,
and gained its award of merit by an almost unani-
mous vote. The colour is rich yellow.

Chrysanthemum Golden Mensa.— The name

is fully descriptive. Mensa, the pure white variety,
represents, without doubt, the highest excellence
to which the single-flowered Chrysanthemum
has as yet attained. The one above named is a
counterpart of the type, differing only in colour,
which is of richest golden. It cannot fail to please.
Carnation Champion. — A very
fine scarlet-flowered self, which, if
not of the highest excellence and
finish, is still a grand Carnation in
some respects, particularly of
colour and fragrance. The latter
alone should make it popular. This
and the three foregoing Chry-
santhemums were exhibited by
Messrs. W. Wells, Limited, Merst-
ham, Surrey.

Carnation Gorgeous.— This fine

American-raised sort promises to
surpass all others of the Perpetual-
flowering Carnations of the cerise-
coloured set. In colour it is best
described as a glowing cerise, with
much less of the blue pigment than
is seen in some. Its lighting-up
attributes are remarkable. We
know of no Carnation so distinctly
brilliant and effective when under
artificial light. From Messrs. Stuart
Low and Co., Enfield.

Iris Vartani White Pearl. —

A delightful and nearly pure white
form of this early-flowering species.
The pretty flowers are 4 inches to
5 inches high, and arise amid
pointed leafage of nearly twice that
height. The species is most
probably closely allied to I. reticu-
lata, and with the white form
here given is well suited to the
alpine-house. From Messrs. R. W.
Wallace and Co., Colchester.

CYPRIPEDIUM OLYMPUS. THE FLAT WHITE
3j INCHES ACROSS.

life and increasing the beauty of trees, in addition
to assisting in beautifying the garden. K.

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Chrysanthemum Pink Pearl. — A very beauti-
ful decorative variety with reflexing petals, and of
a delightful pearl pink shade. A quite charming
and useful addition by reason of colour alone.
From Messrs. H. J. Jones, Limited, Lewisham.

Chrysanthemum Mme. Theresa Morel. — Large
exhibition variety of the drooping type of Japanese.
The colour is pale yellow.

NEW ORCHIDS.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Foremost among the new
Orchids was Cypripedium
DORSAL IS Olympus, from Lieutenant-
Colonel Sir George Holford's
wonderful collection at Tetbury,
Gloucestershire. This is a massive flower of
bold form, having a well-expanded white dorsal
(see illustration) with a green base. From the same
collection came the Westonbirt variety of Odonto-
glossum crispum Xanthotes. Other novelties to
gain distinction were Cypripedium Stella, from
Messrs. Sander and Sons ; L£Elio-CattIeya Olenus
Blenheim Variety, sent by His Grace the Duke
of Marlborough ; Sophro-Laelio-Cattleya Niobe,
from Messrs. Charlesworth and Co. ; and Cattleya
andreana McBean's Variety, from Messrs. McBean
and Co.

The foregoing novelties were granted awards
by the Royal Horticultural Society on November 4.

November 15, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

577

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

THE WINTER TREATMENT OF FLOWER BORDERS.

DURINT, the early autumn months
L there is much work ot a seasonable
I character among herbaceous border
' plants that is better done at that
time than at any other period of
the year. This is true in spite of
the fact that quite a large number of herbaceous
plants are of a long-suffering nature, and submit
to division and replanting at almost any time
with impunity. In the autumn, however, when
flowering has ceased, there is a general desire
for tidying up, and at such times much useful
work may be done. The cutting down of all
plants may be proceeded with at once, taking
ire that in so doing labels are not disturbed,
■ r even lost altogether. We grow these and other
^.irden flowers chiefly for ornament or for their
usefulness in a cut state.

Renovating the Border Soil. —

With the cutting down ot the plants
completed, it must be decided whether
forking, digging, or manuring is neces-
sary. Needless to say, the first and
last of these will benefit both the
border and the plants it contains.
The addition of manure by its bulk
alone lifts, lightens and aerates the
soil, and in so doing performs impor-
tant work quite apart from its enrich-
ing effects. The best manure to
employ is that of a short, well-decayed
nature. Failing this. Hop Manure is
very desirable, and is capable of
similarly good work. At such times,
too, a free addition of lime may with
decided gain be given to all soils of
a heavy or water-holding nature.
Overgrown Plants. — Not a few of

the best border plants are of so robust
a nature that they quickly fonn mats
of growth, which if lelt undisturbed
will prove their own imdoing in the
near future. The digging up, dividing
and replanting of such as these is,
therefore, of importance at this time.
The white perennial Marguerites
(Chrysanthemum maximum and its varieties),
Michaelmas Daisies, Rudbeckias, Heleniums, Heli-
anthus rigidus in variety and Achillea Ptarmica
are some of those that benefit by being divided
and replanted each year. The varieties of the
two groups first named quickly e.xhaust the soil,
and manure shotild be added freely in such
cases.

Change of Station. — One of the greatest aids
to success in the case of soil-robbing or soil-exhaust-
ing subjects is to give a complete change of station
or position. The one need be but a yard or two
yards removed from the old position, there to find all
the advantages which a change of soil brings in
its train. The idea is simple in the extreme and
its importance infinite, despite which it is rarely
done. A much more frequent way is to lift a
plant and, having dug and manured the groimd,
replant it in the old position. By these means a
partial change of soil only is secured, while in that
suggested above it is complete and entire.
^Plant Selection and Discarding. — In the cas?
ot the more robust-growing, mat-forming subjects,

a considerable amount of plant material will have
to be discarded. With not a few amateurs or
beginners this goes very much against the grain,
yet it has to be done if good results are to be
obtained. The replanting of big clumps of things —
Trollius, Pyrethrum, Flag Iris or Michaelmas
Daisy — is a fallacy ; the youthful plant is capable
of much better work, and is commended to all.
When replanting such as the white Marguerites
or Michaelmas Daisies, only the strongest, outer-
most portions of the clumps — those that have
developed with light and air all aroimd — should be
retained. The superiority of these compared
with the iimermost shoots of a plant will be obvious
at a glance. Single growths, if well rooted, are
the best, and, of these, six or a dozen arranged
a few inches apart will not only form a goodly

covered with ashes (not too fine) or some similar
material. Then, when the plants are placed
in their winter quarters, they should be kept as
dry as possible, consistent with safety. Until
the frosty weather comes, air should be given night
and day, so that the plants are kept in as dormant
and hardy a state as possible. The lights, of course,
should not be left off during rains ; but when air
is desirable, they may be tilted during the night.
This will keep the plants in as good a condition
as possible to withstand severe weather. When
the time comes round in which frosts may reason-
ably be expected, the exposed sides of the frame
should be banked up with some frost-resisting
material, such as litter. Bracken, leaves, or any-
thing in that way. It should be as dry as possible
when put into its place, as dry material of an v kind

A BORUiiK Oh HARUY 1-LOWEKS.

MUCH WORK CAN NOW BE DONE TOWARDS OBTAINING A
DISPLAY NEXT SUMMER.

group, but provide a display of the finest flowers
in due season.

Plants Slow to Establish themselves, as, e.g.,
Paeonies, Japanese .Anemones, Day Lilies, Cimici-
fuga, Christmas Roses and others, dislike — some
even abhor — frequent root interference. Such as
these should have the soil carefully forked about
them, keeping at a respectful distance mean-
while, and a dressing of manure given. The
Japanese Anemones may remain good for years
with an annual mulching. Delphiniums or Lark-
spurs are good for three years without cUsturbance,
a similar remark applying to the herbaceous
Phloxes. E. J.

TENDER PLANTS IN COLD FRAMES.

A GREAT many tender plants are safely wintered
in cold frames, and, on the other hand, a good
many perish therein. The greatest enemy to
contend with is damp, and therefore precautions
should be taken to combat it as far as possible.
In the first place, the bottom of the frame should
be above the surrounding ground, and the bottom

resists frost much better than when it is wet. In the
event of severe and long-continued frost, the occu-
pants of the frame may become frozen, despite the
covering of litter. In this case nothing can be
done, and the least harm will accrue if the plants
are allowed to remain undisturbed. When the
thaw comes is a very critical time, but with a little
care the risk of injury may be greatly minimised.
However pronounced the thaw, the frames should
be allowed to remain shut up for twenty-four
hours and the plants kept in absolute darkness.
Then, at the expiration of that time, the lights
must be tilted a little at the back, which is the
highest part, in order to allow the moisture to
escape, but not enough to admit daylight. They
may be left in this way for two or three days,
and after this the plants inured gradually to the
light. Then, as soon as possible, the frame should
be examined to ascertain the condition of its
occupants, and also for the removal of any decaying
leaves. In this way many tender plants may
often be brought safely through a period of severe
frost. H. P.

578

THE GARDEN.

[November 15, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Care of Plants in Frames. — Stock Geraniums
that were lifted and potted when clearing the
beds will have lost a good deal of foliage, and
will be greatly benefited by a good pick over,
cutting back any decaying shoots into the older
wood. A little heat must be maintained to keep
the plants growing quietly. By so doing, nice
stocky cuttings should be ready for propagating
early in the New Year.

Autumn-Rooted Cuttings of Zonal Pelar-
goniums will also be all the better for a good pick
over, at the same time spacing the plants a little
so that they keep in a stocky condition.

Marguerites that were put in during September
or October have made considerable progress
owing to the mild weather, and potting off should
be done at once rather than let them become
leggy through overcrowding. These may be
kept in the cold frame, but water should be sparingly
given, or the plants may suffer in the event of
very severe frost.

Calceolarias, Veronicas and Antirrhinums

are all rooted bv now, anil plenty of air should be
admitted to the frames when the weather is at
all open. Keep all decaying leaves picked off
and the soil only moderately moist.

Echeverias and Sempervivums planted in

frames must alstt be kept dry overhead, or there
may be considerable decay of the under leaves.
If this is noticed, a careful picking over will probably
stop it, and if done now they should go through
the winter niceh'.

Coleus, Alternanthera, Iresine and Heliotrope

must all be given a fair amount •<{ heat to keep
the roots .active and the plants growing healthily
during the dull davs of winter ; and to keep the
plants stocky, give as much rocmi between the
pots as circumstances will allow.

Sweet Peas sown in the open air should now
be I inch or 2 inches through the ground, and
protection will be needed against birds and slugs.
Netting and soat should prove effective. In exposed
positions a few twigs on the windward side of
the rows or rlumps should protect them from
wind and frost.

Seeds Sown in Pots the middle of October will
also need attention, and now that the seedliags are
nicely through the soil, all the air possible must
be given to the frames. No half-hearted methods
are admissible here. Take the lights right off
during fine weather, and if mild and wet. put
a 6-inch pot under each comer of the lights and
thus admit all the air possible. Keep the soil
in the pots as dry as possible, especially so in the
case of the white and mauve varieties, which
are acknowledged to be rather weaker than the
other colours. With this kind of treatment it takes
a good deal of f.-ost to injure them, though it
must be borne in mind that it is the sun after the
frost that is more often the source of trouble.

Plants Under Glass.

Cinerarias. — The earliest batch may now be
running up to flower, and should be given a small
dressing or two of Clay's Fertilizer or some such
mild manure. If they are required shortly, a
little extra heat may be given, but it is inadvisable
to overdo them in this respect. Later batches
must be given more room as they require it, so
as to keep the plants shapely and the foliage in
a hardy condition. Fumigate occasionally to
keep down green fly ; this is much easier and
cleaner than spraying.

Primulas. — Early batches are now making a
bright show, and to preserve the flowers in a good
condition, a moderately dry atmosphere must
be preserved. The Primulas like a damp bottom
to stand on rather than a dry lattice staging.
These, too, may be helped with a little manure ;
but it must be noted that plants at this season
do not require as much feeding as pl.ants growing
freely in the summer months. Watering being less
frequent, it does not get washed through the pots
so quickly.

Lily of the Valley. — if bloom is wanted for
Christmas, Berlin crowns must be put into heat
at once ; but the better practice is to secure retarded

crowns for blooming up to the end of January,
when the non-retarded Dutch and Berlin crowns
will force with much more certainty of getting
good results. A few pots put in heat once a week
should ensure a succession of flowers, and those
wh<> have not had experience of retarded crowns
should note that a temperature of 55° to 60° is
better than one much higher, the blooms being of
better substance and lasting longer.

The Kitchen Garden.

Hot-Bed Material. — For very early Carrots
and Lettuce, S'owings should be made early in
December or as soon after as possible, so that
material for hot-beds should be prepared at once.
Good, strawy litter, with a certain proportion of
leaves, is the best for the purpose, and if it can
be prepared by turning a few times under cover,
so much the better. If too wet when it is finally
made up into hot-beds and trodden well, it some-
times fails to heat, and the name is somewhat
of an anomaly : and if too fresh, the heat rises
very quickly and fails to last. So what should
be aimed at is a bed that will give a fair amount
of warmth over a long period, this being especially
necessary at this season of the year, though, of
course, a lining of fresh manure can be given to
the frames when the heat is subsiding a little.

Fruits Under Glass.
Sulphide of Potassium for Peach Trees.—

During a conversation with a large grower of
Peaches for market, I was somewhat struck to
find that the said grower rarely, if ever, syringed
his trees during the growing season. I naturally
asked how he kept down spider. " Quite easily,"
he said ; "I dress or sprav the trees two or three
times during the winter and spring before they
bloom with sulphide of potassium [I presume at
about half an ounce to the gallon of waterj, and
this keeps them entirely free." I have no actual
experience of this method of keeping down spider ;
but as the grower is a good man and not likely
to make many mistakes, those who are troubled
in this way might do worse than try what a dressing
or two of sulphide would do if carefully applied
during the winter months. I have used this for
many subjects, and have never found it to injure
them if carefully applied.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardenerto E. Mocatta, Esq.)
Wnhurn Place Gardens, Addleslone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Mice Attacking Bulbs. — Spanish irises. Tulips
and Crocuses (especially the yellows) are very apt
to be attacked by mice during the winter months,
so a close watch should be kept on these marauders.
I find Rodine a very effectual poison ; it can
be spread over pieces of buttered bread and placed
under an inverted flower-pot slightly tilted up.
so as to be out of the way of cats and dogs. Small
spring traps of the " Gert " type also answer
very well ; these should be set about dusk and
lifted early in the morning, or robins instead of
mice are apt to be caught.

Sweet Pea Stakes. — There are now several
types of these on the market, including wire
columns, wire hurdles and collapsible hoop-and-net
trainers. These are all excellent in their way,
but for those who can procure them on their own
property nothing is better than, nor. perhaps, quite
so good as, natural stakes of Beech, Elm or Hazel
branches. Now that the sap has gone down,
these may be secured at any time, and be trimmed
and pointed with a hedge bill.

The Rock Garden.

Cleaning Up Leaves. — The trees are now pretty
well defoliated, and in many gardens, through
the influence of the wind, many nooks and crannies
of the rock garden have got a plentiful supply
of them. In some cases, a few leaves around a
subject of doubtful hardiness might do good.
As a rule, however, the effect is detrimental ;
therefore they should be carefully cleaned away.

Stock in Frames. — Seedlings or rooted cuttings
in frames should be frequently examined, to see
that they are not suffering from lack of water.dainp,

or the attacks of rats and mice. Give them abun-
dance of air, but protect from the winter rains.

The Rose Garden.
Protecting Climbers. — As a result of the heavy
losses among climbers last winter, suggestions
have been made as to the means (tf preventing a
recurrence of such heavy losses. Some of these
suggestions (such as that of annual transplanting)
are, I fear, impracticable. In the colder districts,
however, something could be done. A light pro-
tection of Heather, Bracken, or Spruce or Yew
twigs would in many cases carry the plants safely
through the winter. In certain pt.)sitions it might
be well to untie all the shoots, then tie them loosely
together in small bundles, lay them down on light
supports, giving them a little protection with some
of the materials indicated above ; Broom or Wheat
straw might also be used. Whatever system is
pursued, however, air should be freely admitted
among the shoots.

Plants Under Glass.

Chrysanthemums. — Although too early to com-
mence propagation in earnest, yet, in the event
of a scarce or shy variety showing a good cutting
or two, they should be taken without hesitation.

Forcing Bulbs. — Hyacinths that are wanted
in bloom at Christmas must now be afforded a
temperature of from 55° to 60°, care being taken
that they are not allowed to suffer for lack of water.
Succession batches of bulbs should be brought
on in a cool structure in rotation ; better results
are always obtained by gradual forcing than by
forcing hard. What are being sold by some firms
this season for the first time as " Prepared Hya-
cinths " are said to flower a month earlier than
ordinary bulbs, the subtequent culture being the
same.

Primula malacoides. — This attractive Primula
is apt to give trouble through the flowers damping
off. While it will not stand coddling, it should
have a night temperature of from 45° to 50", with
a free circulation of air on all favourable occasions.

Fruits Under Glass.

Peaches. — The work of pruning, even in late
houses, should n<)w be brought to a close as soon
as convenient. The trees should be as fully exposed
to the air as circumstances will perihit. The
glass and woodwork should be thoroughly
cleaned, mixing a little petroleum with the water
used in washing. The trellises should then have
a cloth steeped in neat petroleum drawn along
them. The walls should be washed with hot lime
and the trees be painted with Gishurst Com-
pound or XL All Insecticide, after which they
should be tied into position.

Early Vinery. — In a house where forcing was
commenced at the beginning of the month, the
night temperature should now be from 50° to 52°,
with a rise of 5° during the day. The rods should
be sprayed not later than 2 p.m.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Pruning Apples. — Where summer pinching
has been done and the trees have been attended
to in past years, with any necessary root-pruning
or replanting, the work of pruning will be a com-
paratively easy matter, as fruit-buds will pre-
dominate. Still, the trees must be carefully gone
over when there is no frost present, and the pinched
shoots must be cut in to within an inch of the base.
Old spurs which have become too long should
also be cut in to one or two buds, and in training
young trees, spurs should not be allowed to form
nearer than 6 inches to each other.

The Vegetable Garden.

Rhubarb. — Where a dish of Rhubarb is wanted
at Christmas, a few stools should now be introduced
to heat. A temperature of 55° by night will
be found suitable. Keep the stools dark and free
from currents.

Seakale. — This crop can be mildly forced by
the following method : Drive in stout wooden
stakes, 30 inches high, at intervals along the rows;
then run a light rail along the top of the stakes.
Now cut a number of rough slabs of wo 3d the
requisite' lengths, and lay them against the rail
in a sloping position, forming an inverted V-shaped
covering over the plants. When the requisite
number of rows have been thus treated, fill up
the intervening spaces with freshly-collected leaves.
Charles Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

November 15, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

579

NEW RULES FOR ENTERING
DAFFODILS FOR AWARDS.

\ 1 the meeting uf the Royal Hi)i'ticultural Society
i.ii the 4th inst,, the President and Council adopted
tlie following new rules submitted by the Narcissus
and Tulip committee of the society. The rules
will take effect frotu January i, 1914.

1. It must be clearly stated on the entrance
toim of any variety which is submitted to the

I ommittee for an award under which of the fol-
lowing heads the sender wishes it to be judged :
1(a) as a show flower, or " show " ; (6) as suitable
for garden decoration, or " garden " ; (c) for
growing and flowering in pots, or " pots " ; (d)
for cutting or market purposes, or " cutting " ;
■(«) as a plant for rockwork, or " rockery." N.B. —

\iiy one variety may be entered imder more than
lie head.

2. The following conditions must be complied
with in all cases : If submitted mider (a), five
-tems with bloom are necessary for an award of
merit, and twelve stems for a first-class certificate.

II submitted under (6) and (rf), for either award
■of merit or first-class certificate twenty-five stems
must be submitted in two vases ; twelve must
be bunched and thirteen be loose. If submitted
under (c) and {e). two pots or pans must be shown,
e,u h containing not less than three bulbs, for an
award of merit. Four pots or pans, each con-
taining not less than three bulbs, for a first-class
•certificate.

3. Official entrance forms will be provided,
and mav be obtained from the Royal Horticultural
Society's Offices. One of these forms must be
properly filled up by the exhibitor for each variety
before it can be placed before the committee.

4. The words " show," " garden," " pots,"
■" cutting" or "rockery" will in future be added
.to the usual award of merit or first-class certificate.

TO

ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— 27u? Editor intends to
•make THE GARDEN help/ut to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Ansivers
•to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only^
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
■of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
•query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper,
J^lauts for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is ttseless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.

FLOWER GARDEN.

PLANTING WATER LILIES (C. L. S.).— If you so wish,
you may plant ynur Water Lilies either iu tubs or pots,
wiHi every possibility ol siRcess. It is, however, necessary
to turn them out of their receptacles every February,
clean the pots or tubs well, and replant in new soil. Pro-
viding the tubs or pots were from 12 inches to 15 inches
across and the same in depth, they would contain plenty
of food material to keep the plants coins: for a year.
Baskets will answer the same purpose, but there is danger
•of their rotting and allowing the soil to escape into the
water.

TWELVE HERBACEOUS PLANTS (E. C.).— Had you
■given us the size of the border, we should have been in a
far better position to advise you satisfactorily. However,
here are some good things which should not be absent
from any garden : Aster Amellus, A. Beauty of Colwall,
Aqullegia chrysantha. Campanula persicifolia alba grandi-
flora. Chelone barbata Torreyi, Delphinium Rev. E.
Lascelles, Erigeron speciosus superbus, Eryngium

amcthystinum, Oeum Mrs. J. Bradshavv, fiaillardia Lady
RoUeston, lucarvillea Delavavi, Iiia pallida dalmatica,
Phlox Mrs. E. H. Jenkins, P. Ba'ron Van Dedem, Pvrethrnm
Hamlet, P, Aphrodite and P, Ne Phis Ultra,

TREATMENT OF BULBILS OF LILIUM SULPHUREUM
(G. W.). — It would be a good plan to repot your bulbils
of Lilium .suliihuicum now, as thev would then root
steadily throughout the winter. .\ mixture of loam, leaf-
mould or peat will make a suitable compost for them.
The loam should form two-thirds of the whole. During
the winter they must be kept in a greenhouse or frame
where they are safe from frost, and enough water should
be given to keep the soil slightly moist, as' in this way the
roots are kept active. \Vith the retm-n of spring and
increased groivth, more water will, of course, be needed.
In preparing the pots for the reception of the bulbils,
effective drainage is very necessary.

FLOWERS FOR CUTTING (17. B. .4.).— The following
plants will produce white flowers suitable for cutting. All
may be planted now : Phloxes Harry Veitch, Mrs. Forbes,
Tapis Blanc and Sylphide ; Lupinus arboreus Snow
Queen, Hesperis matronalis {white variety), Christmas
Ilose (Helleborus niger), Chrysanthemum Parthenium
flore pleno, Achillea The Pearl, Anemone japonica, Snovv--
drops. Narcissi, such as the Poeticus and Tazetta varieties,
also the newer Poetaz forms ; Tulips in variety. Hyacinths',
Lilium specioaum album and L. lougiflorum varieties.
Although not white-flowered, the Spanish and English
Irises are very useful for cutting. You might also make
sowings of Sweet Peas, and plant a few clumps of the red
and white varieties of the Everlasting Pea (Lathyrus lati-
folius). These flowers will answer for church decoration.
TREATMENT OF GAZANIAS (G. IT.).— You are some-
what late in interesting yourself in the wintering of
Gazanias, as this is a matter that should have been taken
in hand before now. Cuttings taken in August and placed
in sandy soil in a close and shaded frame will root without
any difficulty, and if, when potted off, they are kept in a
light and airy structure, no trouble will be' experienced in
keeping them through the winter. Even now, provided
you have a snug little structure kept at a temperature
of 50° to 60°, a fair percentage of cuttings may be struck.
They should be shaded from the brightest sun, and care
must be taken not to overwater them. The old plants may
also be lifted and potted or laid in boxes and placed in a
good, light position in the greenhouse. Before potting,
straggling roots and shoots should be shortened back in
order to economise space, leaving as many as possible of
tlie shoots near the centre of the plant. "

PLANTING EREMURUS (il. .4.). —You will find that
the species of Eremurus will pro\e more satisfactory if
grown in a border with other plants than if planted on a
lawn, for, e.xcept when in bloom, the various kinds are
not very ornamental, and the leaves become decidedly
untidy towards the middle of summer. At the same time,
they must not be planted in places where the roots are
likely to be damaged by digging holes for other plants.
They usually give satisfactory results when planted among
low shrubs where sufficient space has been left between
the shrubs to allow of the proper development of the
leaves. Do not plant entirely in leaf-mould. Provide
good loamy soil and dig some leaf-mould among it. The
soil should be at least 12 inches to 15 inches deep. If a
clump of Eremurus plants is formed. Lilies may be planted
between, providing the former are not very close together.
Thf evergreen shrub is Coronilla glauca.

BEE FLOWERS {W. B. -1.).— The flowering shrub to
wliich you refer is apparently Buddleia globosa, although
we have not previously heard it called by the name of
the " Honey Ball Tree." It is a great favourite with bees.
The following plants are all appreciated by bees : Arabis
albida. Wallflower, Heather, Clover, Lime, Lavender,
Buddleia variabilis varieties veitchiana and magniflca, and
-Michaelmas Daisies. The Arabis is excellent for planting
near hives on account of its early flowers in spring. Bees
collect a great deal of pollen from its flowers. Likewise
the Michaelmas Daisies are valuable for autumn. Your
garden soil may be improved by trenching it 2 feet to
2J feet deep, and adding grit, long horse-manure and burnt
clay to the subsoil. When trenching, be careful that you
do not bury the surface soil. Keep that to the top all the
while, but thoroughly loosen the lower soil and incorporate
the manure and other materials with it. Well-rotted
manure should be used for the surface soil. If the soil is
deflcient in lime, the shortage may be made good while
the work is in progress. The following evergreen trees and
shrubs are likely to serve your purpose; Pinus insignis,
P. Pinaster, Cupressus macrocarpa, C. lawsoniana.
Thuya plieata and Quercus Hex among trees ; and Berberis
stenophylla, B. Darwinii, Escallonia macrantha. Rhodo-
dendrons in variety, Elfeagnus pun'„'ens variegata, E. macro- |
phylla and Choisya temata among =hrube.

entrance to it. In such case trellis off at the back a space
of 12 feet, arranging a border 3 feet or 4 feet wide in
front of the trellis, to be presently planted with Roses,
Carnations, or what you will. The trellis also should be
planted with climbing Roses. In front of the border a
path 4 feet mde should be made. On either side, borders
3 feet wide for hardy herbaceous plants should be formed,
with paths not less than 3 feet wide in front. The central
portion, to about half the length of the ground, might be
laid down in grass, with flower-beds at the four corners ;
beyond this, a vegetable garden plot — it mav be made large
or small, as befits your requirements — to be shut out from
view by a lattice wood screen or by a hedge of Yew, Holly
or Privet. If you are fond of fruit, four bush pyramid
Apples — one at each corner — should be planted. The
paths in this section need not be quite so spacious as those
in the flower garden portion, but for convenience should
encompass the plot after the fashion of the flower garden.
In sftch case the side borders could be devoted to the raising
of Lettuce, Radish, Spinach. Carrots, Shallots, Onions,
together with Mint, Thyme, Parslev and other useful
things, while the larger central plot could be devoted to
bolder-growing subjects. Needless to say, the soil of a
garden so long neglected will require deep cultivation,
with heavy manuring in all parts save that set aside for
the lawn. You say nothing of the character of the soil,
so that we cannot help you more definitely. Dry paths
in all gardens are very desirable ; hence you had better
e.xcavate the soil to about a foot deep, filling in first with
clinkers and rough ashes, and finally with fine ashe-
or gravel for the surface. The excavated soil from the
pathways should be turned on the border portions to
increase their depth and save labour in carting elsewhere.
When this is done, the rough clinkers may be introduced,
leaving the surface covering for the paths till the last,
.•is you say you know nothing of the work, it would be
advisable to obtain the assistance of a practical gardener.

THE GREENHOUSE.

OLEA FRAGRANS {U. E. 5.).— The plaot concerning
which you enquire is undoul>tcdly Olea Iragrans, a native
of China, whence it was introduced as Ions ago as 1771.
The flowers, though snaall, are deliciously fragrant. It is
fairly hardy in the South of England, and should prove quitr
?o with the protection of a wall. At one time it was more
grown as a conservatory or greenhouse plant than it is
now, its ornamental leafage and sweet-scented flowers being
its greatest recommendation. So fragrant are the blossoms
that a single plant will make its presence known in a
good-sized structure. Besides the ordinary form with
white llowers there is one sometime? met with in Italian
gardens, in which the blossoms are of a yellowish buff
tint.

ARUM LILIES FLOWERING TOO SOON (T. 5.).—
You can do nothing to prevent your Arum Lilies from
flowering now, as the scape.-, are quite ready for pushing
up and will naturally do so. You could not do more
than you have done to keep them back. The best thing
to do will be to cut the flowers off now as they appear,
and keep them in a comparatively quiet state till after
Christmas. Then encourage them to grow by a little
additional warmth, and an occasional stimulant if the pots
are well furnished with roots. By this means you will
have flowers at Easter, but, of course, forethought must
be exercised in that respect, as the development of the
blossoms largely depends upon the weather and other
particulars which it is impossible to foresee. Thus, as
Easter approaches, if the flowers are likely to be too early,
keep them cooler, while, if backward, give them a little
additional heat.

TO TURN HYDRANGEAS BLUE (/. ^.).— Various pre-
scriptions for turning Hydrangeas blue have at one time
or another been published, birt invariably with succes;^.
The most effective that have come under our notice are
two preparations the composition of which is kept secret,
namely, Azure and Cyanol. The first named (Azure) is a
speciality of Messrs. William Cutbush and Son, Highgate.
They have, during the present season, shown numerous
examples of Hydrangeas whose flowers had been changed
to blue by the use of Azure, notably a fine lot at the spring
show of the Royal Horticultural Society at Chelsea. The
other preparation (Cyanol) is, we believe, from the Conti-
nent, It can l>e obtained from Messrs. William Wood and
Sons, horticultural sundriesmen, Wood Green, London, N.
Our experience is that the presence of lime in the soil is
greatly against the production of blue flowers, and this is
borne out by the instructions for the use of Cyanol, viz.,
the water and soil must be free from chalk. Rain-water
is preferable. No artificial manure must be applied.

LAYING OUT A GARDEN {Amateur). ~T\iQ first thing
to do with a garden as long neglected as the one you
refer to is to rid it of all superfluous material — weeds,
useless, overgro\vn or decaying shrubs — and make a bonfire
of them on the spot. If the grass with which you say
the garden is overrun is one of the common meadow
grasses, it will be easily got rid of by cutting down and
burning the tops, and by subsequently trenching in the
roots. If, however, it should prove to be the Couch
Grass, with long, whitish roots spreading undercround,
nothing short of forking the whole area and picking it
out will suffice. This work needs to be carefully done,
since every scrap of root is capable of making a new plant.
With a clearance thus made you will be able to discover
any pathways, should such exist, since the garden may
be made to conform to them in some measure. If no paths
exist and you have a clear course before you, we suggest
you lay the garden out as follows : We will assume that
the house is at its southern end, and that there is a side

MISCELLANEOUS.
THE HICKORY BEETLE {W. G.).— The

insects found
in the Hickory wood are the larvae of the Hickory beetle,
an insect which sometimes causes a good deal of annoy-
ance in the United States. It is not a native of the British
Isles, but there are other beetles here which act in a similar
way. The dark-coloured excavation is not likely to have
been caused by the goat moth, but it is not possible to
suggest which insect has made it.

TREATMENT OF LAWNS {W. R. C.).— The most satis-
factory way to clear a lawn of weeds is to encourage the
grass to outgrow thtm ; for after a lawn has once become
thoroughly weedy, it is a hopeless matter to try to eradi-
cate the weeds unless the grass is made to assist by feed-
ing it liberally. Where coarse grasses exist, it is a good
plan to provide a dressing of sea sand at the rate of two -
cubic yards to the acre ; but where the grasses are fairly
fine but patchy, it is better to apply good soil free from
weed seeds, well-rotted farmyard manure or bone-meal.
Soil may be applied to a depth of half an inch, keeping it

I

580

THE GARDEN.

[November 15, 1913.

rakiid about well until it disappears. Farmyard manure
may be used at the rate of four or live tons to the
acre, according to the condition of the grass, and bone-meal
may be given at the rate of half a ton to two acres. Good
works on lawn grasses are published by Messrs. James
Carter, Kaynes Park, S.W., and Messrs. Sutton and Sons,
seedsmen, Reading. If you wish to remake your Yarrow
lawn, it is possible to procure Yarrow seed in quantity
from various firms of seedsmen.

FLANNEL WEED IN PONDS (C. B.).— The material
recommended for destroying Flannel Weed in ponds
was copper sulphate used in the proportion of one part
of copper sulphate to 750,000 to 1,000,000 parts of water.
The chemical should be placed in a canvas bag and be
drawn through the water until dissolved. It is usually
necessary to apply the copper sulphate two or three times
between April and October.

FUNGUS MYCELIUM IN GROUND (Arminius).—
The fungus mycelium in your garden can be destroyed
by digging a trench round the affected area deeper than
the mycelium penetrates ; then digging unslaked lime
into the affected ground. A little fungus may appear
again next year, but a second application of lime should
prove effective. Fungus mycelium may also be killed
by soaking the gi;ound with a strong solution of sulphate
of iron.

NAMES OF FRUIT. — R. Y. — Boston Russet and Marie

Liuise d'Uccle. J. Y. N. — 1, Potts" Seedling ; 2, King

of tlic Pippins; 3, Hawthornden ; 4, Stirling Castle: 5,

Lady Henniker. Sunflower. — Large fruit, King Harry;

smail. Winter Peach. Miss S.. Lines. — 1, American

Mother ; 2, John Apple ; 3, Ribston Pippin ; 4, Adam's

Pearmain ; 5, Cellini Pippin. W. H. JIT.— Ribston

Pippin.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— .K. M. fl.— Probably a dyed

flower of Anaphalis margaritacea. H. P. E- — Aselepias

curassavica ; 2, Etoagnus pungens aurea. Purley. —

Poterium tenuifolium. Enquirer. — 1, Oxalis acetosella;

2, Sedum nipestre ; 3, Saxifraga Aizoon ; 4, Potentilla
species, cannot name without flowers ; 5, Polemonium
caeruleum variegatum ; 0, Lychnis Viscaria ; V, Semper-
vivum Funckii ; 8, Saxifraga Hostii ; 9, Veronica speciosa

variety ; 10, Saxifraga Aizoon variety. Tf . P., Taunton.

— 1, Nephrolepis cordifolia ; 2, Chrysanthemum, garden
seedling ; 3. Abutilon species, cannot name without flowers.

SOCIETIES.

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The monthly meeting of the Scottish HorticiUtviral
A-isociation was held in the Hall, 5. St. Andrew Square,
Edinburfih. on the evening of November 4. Mr. David
King, Osborne Nurseries, president of the association,
occupied the chair. The exhibits before the meeting were
of some interest, and coujisted mainly of Chrysanthemums,
Mr. \V. G. Pirie, gardener to C. W. Cowan, Esq., Dalhousie
Castle, exhibiting four single varieties, for which a cultural
certificate was awarded. These were Miss H. M. Cowan,
Miss Callender, Weston Gem and Ceddie White. Mr.
R. H. Cockburn, gardener to Sir C. W. Cayzer, Gartmore
House, Perthshire, exhibited a new single Chrysantlie-
mum, Lady Cayzer. Potato Irish Gem. from Mr. W. H.
Sands, Hillsborough, County Down. Ireland, was awarded
a cultural certificate, and a new wasp and fly trap, invented
by Mr. Thomas Reid, Eildon Hall Gardens, lioxburghshire,
was recognised by the inventor being highly commended
for the trap. The lecture of the evening was given by
Dr. "W. G. Smith of the Edinburgh and East of Scotland
College of Agriculture, and proved one of deep interest
and high value. It was well illustrated with limelight
ilUistrations. The subject was " The Influence of Drought
on Plant Form." Dr. Smith made an exceedingly able
presentment of his subject, discussmg it with a wealth
of illustration and giving many examples to support the
position maintained. The influences of various soils, Ac,
formed an interesting section, while the effect of experi-
ments on plants cultivated away from their usual conditions
was also shown. The whole lecture was full of value
for the student of plant -life and for horticulturists in
counection with their work. Dr. Smith was heartily
thanked.

BIRMINGHAM AND DISTRICT GARDENERS' MUTUAL
IMPROVEMENT ASSOCIATION.

A SHORT, concise, but practical and comprehensive paper
on '■ The Winter Dressing of Fruit Trees *' was read to an
assembly of the members of the above society by Mr. R. T.
Parker, gardener to Mrs. Lacey, Westbourne Road,
Edgbaston, on the 3rd inst. When introducing the subject
in so short a paper, he stated that it was his idea to stimulate
a discussion that evening which he hoped would result
in practical future application. Primarily, uncleanliness
was the reason why so many fruit trees and bushes afforded
a refuge for insect pests and other germs that are the origin
of so many disastrous diseases in the majority of fruits.
Therefore, if the grower wished to ensure himself against
the loss of valuable fruit, the most effective course was for
him to adopt a systematic annual cleansing of his trees.
In the snug seclusion of the crevices of the bark around
the trees, the insects and their larvae are secreted, and it is
only by persistent application of the respective washes
that it is possible to prevent them from attaining maturity.
The lecturer clearly demonstrated this in his allusion
to the American blight (or aphis), which he had abolished
from his trees by the use of a wash compounded from
carbonate potash, caustic soda and soft soap, dissolved
ill water. As this solution is liable to burn the skin of the

applicant's hands, if any falls upon them, he usually wears
a pair of rubber gloves for protection, and applies it with
a knapsack sprayer. Different insects, he said, required dif-
ferent treatment owing to the fact that there are two classes
of insect pests — the sucking and the biting. Occasionally
the biting insects would survive a wash which, if used
too strongly, might permanently injure the particular
tree. For the former class of pests, Paris green, a poison,
dissolved in water, would be found to be of advantage
if used discreetly. Also London purple, a waste material
from dyeworks, furnished an economic destroyer of the
winter moth caterpillar. Arseiiate of lead, too, made a
good spray for the biting pests and fungi. Much, he urged,
could be done to forward the growth of trees by the use of
chemical manures, such as a dressing of basic slag or
potash for Black', Red or White Currant trees, while nothing
assisted trees of ten to twenty years' standiuLi Uttrr than
animal manure — especially that obtained from the poultry
farm. Although the ensuing discussion was not at first
as keen as it might have been, several important points
were eventually raised, and these the lecturer replied to
in a manner which proved that he was thoroughly con-
versant with his subject. After the usual vote of thanks
the meeting terminated.

CHRYSANTHEMUM CONGRESS AT GHENT.

The members of the French Chrysanthemum Society
held their 1913 Congress at Ghent in connection with the
Autumn Show held there from the 2.Sth to the 28th ult. The
programme was a full one and included, besides the meeting
of the congress, several days' festivities, which were much
enjoyed. At the congress meeting M. Viger presided.
He was supported on the platform by a bureau composed
of the following' mai limcn- M. Vernieuwe (the representa-
tive of the liclgiau G,iveriiiii' nt). if. F. Couillard, M. Rible.
M. Ph. Rivoire (socretarv), M. Fimini dr Smet, M. Kozain-
Boucharlat.M. A.Callier(presideijt of tlir (ilunt Society), M.
Dubreuihand Mr. Harman Payne (ripresmtmgthe National
Chrysanthemum Society). A paper was read by Dr.
Chifflot of Lyons on insect pests, after which a discussion
ensved, in which M. H. Crepin, M. Clement and the president
joined, and it was resolved that a new edition of the work
published by the society some years ago on insect pests
and diseases of the Chrysanthemum should be issued
shortly. Another paper by M. Godde on the influence of
magnesia salts on Chrysanthemums was read and discussed.
M. Couillard dealt with the question of a revised classi-
fication. Another oh-iniciil question was also considered,
viz., the effect of sulphur and sulphur compounds on the
vegetation of the Chrysantliemum. The congress medal
annually awarded was unanimously voted to Dr. Cl)itflot ;
M. Couillard was promoted to the rank of Officier du
M6rite Agricole; and M. Firmin de Smet was awarded the
gold medal of the society in recognition of his hospitalit\
in receiving the society. It was arranged that the next
congress should be held at Melun in 1914.

On the Sunday evening the members were entertained by
the Royal Agricultural and Botanical Society of Ghent
at a reception held in tlie Casino. They were also provided
with special tickets to view the closing ceremony and
distribution of prizes by the Ring of the Belgians. They
were likewise invited to a day's outing at Bruges to see
the sights of the town and the large nursery of Messrs.
Sander and Sons there, and also to a luncheon given by
M. Firmin de Smet. Quite a large party, including all
the English visitors, accepted. M. Couillard returned
thanks on behalf of the French Chrysanthemum Society,
and Mr. Harman Payne, opening his speech with a
humorous quotation from Molifirc, which delighted his
audience, replied for the English visitors.

CHELMSFORD GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION.

The tliird meeting of tlie winter session was held on
the 31st ult. at the County Laboratories. Mr. C. Wakely
presided over about fifty members. Mr. Jackson of
Braxted Park gave an interesting and practical lecture
on " Begonias." The lecturer commenced by pointing
out the value of Begonias for decoration, especially
the winter -flowering ones. Mr. Jackson divided his
lecture into several parts, and dealt with the varieties
of Begonias in the order named — Begonia Gloire de
Lorraine, winter-flowering Begonias, tuberous- rooted
Begonias and flbrous-rootcd Begonias. Each variety
was dealt with in turn, and the cultivation and propa-
gation explained in a very practical manner. Other
subjects, such as staking, watering, potting and insect
pests, were also dealt with. A vote of thanks was accorded
Mr. Jackson at the close.

ROMFORD HORTICULTURAL AND CHRYSAN-
THEMUM SOCIETY.

The annual exhibition in connection with the above
old-established society was held in the Corn Exchange,
Romford, on Thursday, the 6th inst. There was a very
fine display of Chrysanthemums and other flowers, and,
owing to the committee having largely substituted vases
for the old-fashioned boards, the eft'ect was very cliarming.
Sir Montague Turner, president for the current year, was
a very successful exhibitor, his gardener, JVIr. Humphreys,
staging some particularly good cut blooms and specimen
plants. Among the former was the best bloom shown in
the open section, the best in the amateur's division being
sho\vn by Mr. Bishop of Brentwood. The Rev. E. M.
Bell (gardener. Mr. Gilbert) also showed some very fine cut
blooms and a particularly good specimen plant. Other
successful exhibitors of Chrysanthemums were Messrs.
Sewell and Page. Fruit was surprisingly good, dessert
Apples being shown in large quantities. Vegetable
exhibits, though not so numerous as usual, were of fine
quality and well displayed.

NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY.

Seldom, if ever, have Ctirysanthemunis of better quality
been shoAvn than those at "the Crystal Palace on Novem-
ber 5, 6 and 7. The Japanese varieties were quite up to
the high standard of previous years, and it was particu-
larly pleasing to notice the unusual number of incurved
varieties that were given a prominent position in many
groups, in addition to the dressed blooms showTiin boxes.
Probably no section has made more rapid strides than
the singles, and, incidentally, it might be mentioned that
some of the leading iudges' are a little hazy as to what
constitutes a single. That there should be no misunder-
standing in the near future, it is imperative that the
National Chrysanthemum Society should lay down a j
very clear and definite rule upon this point. The wonderful
improvement that has been wrought among decorative
varieties is also noteworthy, and the large group of
market, decorative and single varieties staged by Messrs.
Cragg, Harrison and Cragg of Heston, near Hounslow,
was undoubtedly one of the features of the show,
more particularly as most of the varieties were of this
firm's raising. The magnificent groups by Mr. Norman.
Davis and Messrs. W. Wells and Co. were deserving of
the highest praise, and the large gold medal offered by
Messrs. Clay and Son for the best miscellaneous exhibit
in the show was awarded to the former. The leading
prize-winners were as follow :

Competitive Classes.
The class for a floral display of Chrysanthemums and
suitable foliage plants in pots (trade excluded) was won
by J. C. Eno, Esq., Wood Hall. Dulwich, with a large
circular group that did full justice to Mr. R. B. Leech,
the able head-gardener. The arrangement was very
artistic. Exhibition, decorative, single and Pompon
varieties were pleasingly associated with the ornamental
foliage of Crotons, Dracsnas and Asparagus. Moreover,
the quality of the blooms left little to be desired. Bob
Pulling was shown in great form, while Mensa, the choicest
of all singles, was seen in the height of perfection. Lady
Tate, Park Hill. Streatham Common (gardener. Mr. W.
Howe), was second. This exhibit contained blooms
and foliage plants of good quality, but we could not help
thinking that the exhibit suffered from overcrowding.

There was strong competition in the class for twelve
vases of Japanese bloom^;, the first prize going to Mr. A.
Chandler, gardener to Arthur James, Esq., Rucrby.
Among the best blooms were W. Turner. Reginald Vallis.
His Majesty (a rich crimson, shown in nmarkably good
form). Thomas Lunt and Mrs. Gilbert Drabble. Second,
the Marquis of Bute : third, Mr. Philip Ladds.

In the class for cut blooms, open to affiliated societies,
the cliallenge trophy was awarded to the Finchley Chry-
santhemum Society for an exhibit which commanded
gi.'iieriil jiduiiration. f

Ciiiisiderai>lo interest was centred in Class 5, for forty-
eight Japanese bloonis. The first prize, including the
Holmes Memorial Challenge Cup, fell to the lot of Mr.
A. Chandler, gardener to Arthur James, Esq., Coton
House Rugby. It was a grand collection, slightly under-
sized, but of good quality and very refined. Of the blooms
shown, the following were remarkably good : Lady Talbot,
W. Turner, Marie Loomes. His Majesty. Mrs. Drabble,
Thomas Lunt and Mrs. F. C. Stoop. iVIr. Stevenson,
gardener to E. G. Mocatta, Ksq., Woburn Place, Addle-
stone, Surrey, was second with a weighty set of blooms
which were a shade too coarse ; third, Mr. G. Hunt,,
gardener to Pautia Italli, Esq., Ashtead Park, Epsom.

It was pleasant to see four really fine exhibits iu the
class for thirty-six incurved blooms. The first prize
and challenge cup were won by Mr. G. Hunt with a faultless
set. His best blooms included Clara Wells, Mrs. P. N.
Wiseman, Pantia Ralli, Duchess of Fife and Mrs. F.
Judson. Mr. H. R. Farmer, gardener to the Marquis
of Bute, was a capital second, followed by Mr. F. J. Brown,,
gardener to Miss Langworthy, Gays House, Holyport.

Mr. H. R. Farmer^ Cardilf, was successful in the class
for twelve incurved blooms. His best blooms included
G. F. Evans, Clara Wells and Mrs. F. Judson. Second,
Pantia Ralli, Esq. ; third. Miss Langworthy.

Sir Albert RoUit (president) offered a cup for twenty-
four Japanese blooms, and this was ^von by Lord Foley
(gardener. Mr. H. C. Gardener). There was excellent
competition, there being ten first-rate exhibits, which
created a wonderful display of colour. The somewhat
uncommon shades of colo\ir in varieties such as Rose
Pockett, Amber Queen, Francis Jolliffe and Master James
contained on the wmning board call for special mention.
Miscellaneous Exhibits.
As usual, these were of exceptional interest, and, together
with the displays in the competitive classes, made up an
exhibition that reminded us of the days when the Chrysan-
themum was at the zenith of its popularity.

Mr. Norman Davis. Framfield, Sussex, set up a large
and beautiful exhibit of great artistic merit, representing
Japanese, incurved and single Chrysanthemums in superb
form and condition. Vases and stands were utilised io-
display the flowers, and by the aid of choice foliage plants
a noteworthy display was made, that won a large gold
medal, and Messrs. Clay and Son's gold medal for the best
miscellaneous exhibit in the show. This exhibit was
set up in front of the Royal Box in the Central Transept .
and occupied the whole front.

Messrs. W. Weils and Co, Limited, Merstham, Surrey,
also won a large gold medal for a very large and com-
prehensive group of cut Chrysanthemums, set up in most
attractive fashion, and which was admired by crowds of
sightseers. Masses of Japanese Queen Mary, Mrs.
Gilbert Drabble, Daily Mail and other new, and choice
Japanese varieties, and a host of beautiful singles and
decorative sorts, made a beautiful display of a compre-
hensive character.

^^

GARDEN.

i^^^vS^^^^^—^"-^^

-r=^=

^^^

No. 2192.— Vol. LXXVII.

November 22, 1913.

CONTENTS.

Notes op the Week 581

Correspondence

Rose Peace . . 562

Prizes for front gar-
dens 582

Longevity of Char-
lock seed . . . . 582

Clematis CEerulea ou
warm walls . . . . 583

Uelianthna speciosus 533

Suitable wood for
pergolas and pillars 583

Potting Dielytra
spectabills for forc-
ing 583

Fortbcoming events.. 583
GiRDENiNQ Acrostics 583

A good tree for the
pleasure grounds , . 583

Rock and Water Garden
The designing, con-
struction and plant-
ing of rock gardens 583
Rose Garden
In a Hampshire gar-
den 585

Coloured Plaie
Three good garden

Roses 586

FiowER Garden
DaSodil notes.. .. 587
Two white Knipho-

flas 587

Sweet Peaa : Some
reflections and

hints 588

Gardeninc. for Beoinnees
How to plant Roses 589
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 590

For Northern gar-
dens 590

WiSLEY's Need op a

Collector 591

Nursery Notes
Messrs. William Cut-
bush and Son . . 591
Answers to Corre-
spondents
Flower garden . . 592
Greenhouse . . 592

.Miscellaneous . . 592

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

IIiI<DSTRATIONS.

llose Irish Fireflame eight weeks after budding . . 582
The designing, construction and planting of rock

gardens 584, 585

An eflective grouping of perennial Candytuft, Thrift

and Saxifrages in a London garden 586

Three good garden Roses Coloured plate

A November flower (Kniphofla multifloral 587

Kniphofla modesta 588

How to plant Roses 5*9

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
hat he wiU not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, mill be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return nan-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payTjient be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
iirapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be ablet? use .and
the receipt of a proof must not be ttHcen as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Couent Garden, W.C.

The Scarlet Oak. — During the past few weeks
the Scarlet Oak has been very beautiful. Its
large leaves assumed a brilliancy of colour not
found in those of any other kind of tree growing
to as large a size. The first specimen that attracted
our attention was growing near the bottom of a
high railway embankment, where the roots had a
deep, friable loam to grow in.

Protecting Early - Flowering Chrysanthe-
mums.— Now that these plants are over, they
should be trimmed up, and those varieties which
are required for cuttings li*ted and placed in a
cold frame, bedding them in leaf-soil, as only a
few of the hardiest can be relied upon to stand
the winter outside without some protection. By
protecting them as advised, much better cuttings
can be obtained.

Protecting Ferns with Leaves. — When the
leaves are being collected, it will be found a good
plan to place some among the outdoor Ferns.
It acts as a protection for the choicer and more
tender kinds, as well as a mulching, from which
the Ferns, bulbs and other plants growing among
them wiU benefit. The leaves should be carefully
worked among the plants with the hands, when
they will soon get settled down and be quite hidden
by the new fronds in the spring.

Rosemary and Carnations. — A few days ago
we were short of foliage to arrange with some
perpetual or winter flowering Carnations, and
toll was taken of the Rosemary bush that nestles
by the front door. Two or three good, erect
shoots were thrust carelessly into the centre of
an old Cornish pitcher that had been loosely filled
with Carnations, and the effect was as pleasing
as the combination was fragrant. No doubt
sprays of Rosemarj' might be effectively arranged
with other kinds of flowers at this season.

Transplanting Montbretias. — Where these have
become too thick, they should be taken up now
and divided, selecting the strongest bulbs for
replantmg. When they are to occupy the same
ground, it should be well trenched and manured.
This useful ornamental plant is often neglected
and allowed to become overcrowded, which results
in weak growths and few flowers. If the plants
are not lifted, it is not wise to remove the dead
foliage, as this protects the young, tender shoots,
which are so easily damaged by the cold winds.

Proposed]^ Plant Collector for Wisley. — On
another page we reprint a long letter that appeared
in Country Life of last week. The writer of the
letter, who is an enthusiastic Fellow of the society,
suggests, among other things, that the Council
should appoint a plant collector, whose duty it
would be to visit foreign cotmtries for the purpose
of collecting new or rare plants which could be
grown at Wisley. We have reason to believe that
some members of the Coimcil have had the

subject under consideration for some time. There

is a good deal to be said for and against the idea,
but it would seem that a wealthy society such as
the Royal Horticultural Society now is could with
advantage devote some of its surplus fimds to such
a purpose.

Austrian Heir-Apparent at Kew. — ^Those
who have heard of the Archduke Francis, Ferdi-
nand's interest in horticulture mil not be surprised
to know that on Sunday last, the day after his
arrival in London, a visit was paid to our national
garden at Kew. In private life the Archduke
takes a keen interest in all that pertains to his
own garden. He is said to have largely super
intended the laying out and planting of th'
grounds surrounding Konopischt, his residence in
Bohemia.

Lettuces for Winter Use. — Plants growniK
in the open at this time of the year are more tender
and more easily damaged than in the summer,
owing, undoubtedly, to the dull weather and shnK
days. If a frame-light can be placed over them,
it will be found of great advantage ; or plants
may be lifted carefully and placed m a frame,
taking care not to damage the leaves. Seeds of
the Cos varieties may be sown thinly at intervals
in boxes or pans and placed m a temperature
of about 55° or 60°. The plants will be very
valuable for salad during the winter when cut in
a young state.

Mid-November Roses. — On looking over the
Roses on Monday la=t. the 17th inst., we were
surprised to find qii;te a number in full bloom.
The following list of varieties that were carrying
really good flowers may be of interest : La France,
Lady Battersea. Lady Pirrie, Frances Charteris
Seton, Griiss an Teplitz, Gloire de Dijon, Miss
Cynthia Forde, Betty, Nita Weldon, Mme. Ravary
Rayon d'Or, Pharisaer, Margaret Molyneux, Mrs.
Alfred Tate Richmond, Lady Alice Stanley,
Mrs. A. Mun-, Sunburst, Earl of Warwick, Konigin
Carola, Gustav Grunerwald, Mrs. Herbert Stevens,
Orleans, J'.'ssie and Hiawatha. The last named
is a weeping standard budded on Rugosa stock,
and has bcfn continually flowering since the end
of July. Jessie is as bright and full of bloom
as in the summer, and Orleans is nearly as good.

Guelder Rose and Traveller's Joy. — These
two native plants are very beautiful objects of
the cotmtry-side at this season. The former,
by virtue of its autumnal tints, serves to brighten
up many a hedgerow and copse with its brightly-
coloured leafage. Everyone is familiar with the
Traveller's Joy (Clematis Vitalba), which at this
season is especially noticeable on accoimt of its
feathery fruits, which have earned for it the name of
Old Man's Beard. This subject is often seen
clothing trees or rambling over farm buildings.
It is singular that it is usually found near to, or
associated with, places of habitation, often marking
the approach to a village, and this possibly explains
the meaning of its name T.-.iveller's Joy.

582

THE GARDEN.

[November 22, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

The Almond in Scotland. — The Almond is
hardy enough to grow, to flower and to fruit in
at least the milder districts of Scotland. The
tree succeeds here and occasionally bears abundant
crops. — R. P. Brotherston, Tyninghame, Preston-
kirk.

Rose Peace. — in reply to " Pax," page 559,
issue November 8, I beg to say that I do refer to
the Tea-scented variety. It has long, pointed buds,
the petals being of a pale lemon colour under glass,
deeper in the open. I have foimd this variety
very impatient of drip from trees and from buildings ;
it does not thrive well in very moist soil. Under
glass, either in pots or borders, the plants succeed
and blossom over a long period.

Prizes for Front Gardens. — I am
quite sure that " Marguerite," page 558,
issue November 8, will soon see a change
for the better if she offers prizes for
the best front gardens in the village
in which she lives. I have had some
considerable experience in the matter
of framing rules in such circumstances
and in judging the gardens. I do not
intend to go into detail here, but would
suggest that " Marguerite " takes into
consideration the sizes of the gardens,
as, if there is a wide margin, it would
be more satisfactory to divide them, say,
gardens of so many square yards and
over, and gardens under tlie size decided
upon. Then the owners of the two
classes would compete against each
other respectively. The largest gardens
are not always the most beautiful, but
it is a fact that the owners of such
have a better opportunity of making
them more beautiful. From experience
I have found it was never satisfactor>-
to class small gardens with large ones.
— G. G.

Rose Irish Fireflame.— The accom-
panying illustration is interesting. It
represents two maiden plants of Irish
Fireflame whose life-history is briefly as
follows : Rather than obtain buds in
the usual way, two pot plants of Irish
Fireflame were purchased from Messrs.
Alexander Dickson and Sons of New-
townards towards the end of July last

of doors, obtained in no more than eight weeks
from the insertion of the bud, is unusual ; it
undoubtedly speaks well for the vigour and growth
of Irish Fireflame, and at any rate demonstrates
its very free-flowering character, both of which
points have, I think, been challenged in your
columns. The plants are growing in the garden of
Mr. E. M. Burnett in this town ; they were budded
by himself, and have not been fed or forced in
any way. The other plant shown in the illustra-
tion is a stock budded with Mrs. J H. Welch,
and the growth of the sprung bud is again very
vigorous, but is more normal in character. It
also was budded at a somewhat earlier date than
the stocks bearing the Irish Fireflames. — Herbert
E. MoLVNEux, Southampton.

Nerines Flowering Outdoors. — Your corre-
spondent " C. Q," in your issue of November 15,
page 570, sends an interesting picture of Nerine

TWO PLANTS OF ROSE IRISH FIREFLAME EIGHT WEEKS
AFTER THE BUDS WERE INSERTED IN THE STOCKS.

The Roses obviously had been grown

under glass, and although the wood was well | Bowdenii' flowering in the open, and goes on to
ripened, it was thin, and, consequently, some of
the buds were very small, certainly no larger
than the ordinary pin's head, so that it was found
impracticable, if the bark and bud were not to be
injured, to remove the " wood " behind the bud,
and the buds were put in with the wood on, just
as they were cut from the parent plant. The
two stocks shown in the illustration were budded
on August 2, and the buds immediately started
growing. The photograph was taken on October 13,
but before that date several of the crown-buds
had flowered and had been removed. On the day
the photograph was taken, one plant had thirty-
four buds on and the other thirty-three, a good
many of which have since flowered. The growth
is strong and over four feet in height, and is nearly
double as thick at its base as the ordinary Bamboo
cane to which it is tied. I think this result out

hint that, in common with other correspondents
of yours, I am unaware of the hardy qualities
of certain of the Nerines. So far as N. Bowdenii
is concerned, I may say that I have seen flowers
of it cut from the open in the South-West of
England, and Mr. S. T. Wright of the Wisley
Gardens has assured me of its hardiness there ;
but at present I have no authentic evidence ol
the hardihood of any of the other species. But
all this is rather beside the point. I am very much
disposed to think, from what evidence I can
gather at present, that the Nerine will never be
so charmmg a plant, and will never exhibit its
beauties to such perfection, in this climate when
grown outside as when given pot cultivation
and the nrotect.on afforded by glass ; and for this
reason J may perhaps be pardoned for reiterating
my advice to those who regularly house some

Cljrj'S.-mthemums (also, as I am aware, hardy
plants !) to devote some of their glass to the Nerine.
— F Herbert Chapman.

Autumn Planting. — One often sees reference
to the importance of early planting, without
any regard to the condition of the soil
being emphasised by writers when dealing with
this subject, that a gentle warning may not be
out of place. Early planting is all very well,
but just now in most districts the soil is not in
good condition on account of the heavy rains,
so that those who have work of this kind to do
need not be anxious or impatient. — Laurence J.
Cook.

Longevity of Charlock Seed. — I have quite
recently had a plot of grassy ground trenched about
twenty inches deep. On the surface of the soil
young Charlock seedlings are now growing in great
numbers. Of course, they will be destroyed before
they attain a large size, but I am pre-
pared to see thousands of seedlings during
next year if I am alive. Not a single
plant has grown in the grass surface for
a long time, but in years gone by the
Charlock plants had evidently been
plentiful and seeded freely, the seeds
remaining dormant in the meantime well
below the surface. I have heard that
seeds brought to the surface aftev very
many years have germinated, but 1 have
forgotten how long. Perhaps some
readers of The Garden may have had
some experience in this matter and will
state it in these pages. — G. G. [The point
raised by our correspondent is an in-
terestmg one. We know of a field
where, about thirty years ago, some of
the old Strap-leaved Turnip was grown
for seed. Although none of that variety
has been allowed to seed there since and
none has been sown, a few used to come
up annually imtil five or six years ago,
when we lost sight of the field. — Ed.]

The Colour of Oxalis enneaphylla. —

Will some of your readers or correspon-
dents kindly shed some light on the
colour of Oxalis enneaphylla ? I have
received plants from two sources, and
in both cases the flowers are pure white,
with a greenish tinge at the base of the
petals. I wrote to the nursery where I
got one plant, saying it was pure white,
and that I imderstood the normal form
had a purple stam at the base of each
petal. The firm replied they never heard
of Oxalis enneaphylla excepting all white.
I turned up The Garden for July 10, 1909, and at
page 339, above the name T. Smith, I find a long
description of the plant, and the flowers are
described thus : " The flowers are white, with a
deep purple stain at the base of each petal, and are
carried on slender stems. . . . The illustra-
tion [a very fine photograph] represents a speci-
men that flowered this year {1909) in the garden
of F. W. Bennett, Esq., Elmhurst, Louth, Lmcoln-
shire. When at its best the clump ceuried over
three dozen flowers." It would be interesting
to know if Mr. Bennett's plant is imique. — West
Medina. [The typical species is immistakably,
and to all intents and purposes pure white, though
there is no reason to doubt that there are variations
of the type. Occasionally, as the flower ages, a
slight discoloration may be seen low down, but
in no instance have we seen a variety with a deep
purple stain at the base of the flower. — Ed.]

]

November 22, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

583

Clematis cserulea on Warm Walls. — One

occasionally sees a pliint of this Clematis growing
on open walls, but I have never seen one to surpass
a specimen growing in a cottage garden in Hamp-
shire and trained on the end wall of the house
itself. I suppose the owner has not troubled to
train the shoots closely to the wall in a formal
manner ; indeed, they seem to be supported by
cross wires, and the general effect is most pleasing,
as the branches, well laden with flowers, depend
so gracefully from the wall. Loam, mortar
rubble and leaf-soil suit these plants very well,
and they form a distinct contrast to other climbing
and wall plants in the same garden. — .-Vvon.

Helianthus speciosus. — I see in your issue for
October 18, page 528, that an award of merit
was given to Helianthus speciosus (Tithonia),
and you remark that it is probably easily raised
from seeds. I have it now in my garden raised
from seed so\ni last spring and obtained from
Heinemann of Erfurt. It has not been flowering
long, and should probably have been sown earlier.
It makes a huge plant 8 feet high, and but for
the imcommon and not very beautiful colour of
its flowers would, in my opinion, be hardly worth
growing. I should think it would be best on poor
soil, when it might give more flowers and be less
vigorous. — G. Stapleto.v, Rothcrwick, Hants.
Suitable Wood for Pergolas and Pillars.—

May I add a word to the able .irticle on this subject
in the Special Rose Number of October ii ? In
addition to the woods mentioned, viz., Oak, Ash
and Hazel, we have proven by a number of years'
usage that Hornbeam and Larch, when well seasoned
and their ground ends tarred, are well fitted to be
used in pergola work or as single pillars. The
Larch, moreover, can generally be obtained
with small branches attaching to the trunk,
which fact makes it infinitely more artistic-looking,
whether used in a pergola or as a pillar. These
projecting branchlets, which, of course, are retained
at whatsoever length one ^vills, are most useful when
tying up the growths, because they provide a larger
and more irregular surface, thus giving the Roses a
less bunched-up appearance. — C. T., Highgate. N.

Potting Dielytra spectabilis for Forcing.—
In The Garden for November 8 there appears
on the " Gardening for Beginners " page instruc-
tions how to pot certain plants. Such a piece
of Dielytra spectabilis as is there represented can
be easily potted ; but if the plants are purchased
from dealers — and in nearly every case they are
Dutch-grown — the beginner will find himself faced
by quite a different problem. It will be found
that in nearly all cases each plant possesses but
a few long, fang-like roots that are so brittle as
to at once snap if any attempt is made to bend
them in order to get them into a pot of reasonable
size. The novice is then completely at a loss,
and puts this Dielytra either in too large a pot
or does not bury it sufficiently deep, for the long,
fleshy roots refuse to be bent. The first time
I experienced this difficulty I scarcely knew how
to proceed; but, taking the bull by the horns, I
cut off as much of the thick, fleshy roots as pre-
vented the clumps from being properly potted. The
results were in every way satisfactory, and I have
followed it ever since, being fully convinced that
there is no need to put Dielytras in pots unduly large
for fear of cutting away some of the roots. — H. P.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
November 24. — National Chrysanthemum
Society's Floral Committee Meeting,

November 38. — Show at Hawick (two days).

GARDENING ACROSTICS.

WE have arranged for a series
of acrostics during the coming
months on the lines of those
of last winter, but there will
be two important differences,
wliich it is hoped will commend
themselves to our readers. First, the acrostics
will not be so difficult ; and, secondly, the marking
will be, as we said in our issue of March 22, on
different lines, which will be fairer and more
encouraging to all. Instead of each acrostic
counting one if the whole and each indi\'idual
light was right and nothing if any one was wrong,
in this second series each light correctly guessed
will count one, and also each " first " and each
" last." Thus, supposing the whole is China
(firsts), Aster (lasts), the full marks will be seven — •
one for China, one for Aster, and one for each of the
five lights C . . . A, H . . . S, I . . . T, N . . . E
and A . . . R. Hence, suppose a competitor
got everything right but the light I ... T, he
would count six, and it would not matter if he
attempted to solve that particular light or not.

Our first acrostic will appear in our issue dated
December 6, and we propose to have a series of
eight, which will bring them to January 24.
Those entering for the acrostics must observe the
following conditions :

(i.) Solutions must be addressed to The Editor
at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden,
W.C, and bear the word " Acrostic " on
the left-hand top corner of the envelope.
(2.) If a nom de plume is used, competitors must
at the same time enclose their own name
and address, not, of course, for publication.
(3.) Solutions must reach the Editor within a
week of the date of issue in which the
acrostic appears. Thus, solutions of
Acrostic No. i published in The Garden
dated December 6 must arrive at the
office before or by the first post on
December 13.
(4.) A list of those who have sent in solutions,
with the number of marks that each one
has obtained, will be published in the next
issue. Thus, that of those who compete in
Acrostic No. i will appear in the issue
dated December 20.
(5.) We propose to divide the series of eight
into two of four each, and to award two
prizes at the end of the fourth, and two
more at the end of the eighth and last.
The first prize in each case will be two
guineas, or books of that value, and the
second, one guinea. In order to give as
many as possible a chance of a prize, the
winner or winners of the first prize in the
first four will be penalised twelve points,
and, similarly, the winner or winners of
the second, eight points if they enter for
the second four.
(6.) In case of any dispute, the Editor's decision

must be accepted as final.
(7.) No solution can be accepted as correct
unless it is the one that the framer of the
acrostic has sent us as his solution, and
which we shall publish in due course. It
is impossible for it to be otherwise, as it
would lead to much confusion, and it would
place upon [us [a responsibility which we
could not assume.

(8.) In the event of two or more competitors
obtaining an equal number of marks for
first prize, '.he first and second prizes will
be added together and divided among them.
Solutions, with explanatory notes, will be pub-
lished as they were last season, only this time we
will endeavour to give the list of the competitors
for any one acrostic and its correct solution in
the same issue.

A GOOD TREE FOR THE PLEASURE
GROUNDS.

(SOPHORA JAPONICA.)

Few deciduous trees are more attractive in habit
and foliage than this Chinese leguminous tree.
Though formerly, as the name Sophora japonica
suggests, considered to be also a native of
Japan, it has since been fairly conclusively proved
that the Japanese trees, though very numerous,
are all cultivated specimens. The year 1763 is
given as the probable date of the introduc-
tion of the tree to Britain. It is readily
recognised by its dark shining green, pinnate
leaves, which retain their colour and hang on
the trees long after most deciduous kinds have
shed their foliage. As a rule, the tree branches
at no great height from the ground and forms a large,
spreading specimen rather than a tree of great
height, though there is a tree at Kew, not far from
the Chinese Pagoda, 70 feet high, with a clean
trunk for a considerable height from the groimd.
This Sophora is the last of the large trees to flower
in the pleasure grounds, being at its best in Sep-
tember. The large branched terminal panicles
are composed of numbers of small, Pea-like,
creamy white flowers. Flowering so late in the
season, the trees seldom mature fruits. A. O.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

THE DESIGNING, CONSTRUCTION
AND PLANTING OF ROCK GARDENS.

(Continued from page 572.)

THE first site I will consider is one to
which I was called some little time
ago, and I may add that the par-
ticulars I give here contain essenti-
ally the advice given to the client,
with a certain elaboration of detail
for illustrative purposes. The sketch plan A
shows the existing conditions. To those not
acquainted with the method of showing exist-
ing levels, I must explain that the surface of
water in the existing pond is taken as 10 feet
above an imaginary datum, and that subtracting
ten from any other level given on the plan leaves
as a result the heiglit of that particular spot above
the surface of the water. This site happens to be
illustrative of what I should consider almost ideal
conditions for a certain type of rock garden. In
the first place, all the straight lines that surround
it are in such a position that they can be com-
pletely obliterated by judicious plantings ; then,
it is so situated as to be approached through
the more formal portions of the garden, and thence
by walks that at every step get further from
formality and nearer to Nature, until, at the
bottom of the stretch of sloping, or, rather,
undulating ground, one arrives at a more abrupt
slope still, with a small, natural pond in the hollow
at its base. The inclination of the slope is from
north to south, with a slight fall across from east
to west. The object is to obtain the best possible

584

THE GARDEN.

[November 22, 1913.

V.MTf* aUTTLY

Q:r--

- or onourtn

SKETCH A, PLAN SHOWING SITE BEFORE TREATMENT,

effect in tlie least possible area, and to create
suitable positions for some alpines, but more marsh
plants and aquatics. The water supply is a natural
one, coming from a higher level, and in case this
should in abnormally dry seasons fail, an arti-
ficial supply is laid on. It will be seen from the
plan that the banks slope steeply towards the water-
level, the pond lying in a sort of valley. Now
the first question to ask ourselves is, " Assuming
that rock were already in existence here, in what
formation would it be found?" The vallty ilself
is to all appearance a " wash-out" ; the contour
of the banks gives the impression of their being
gradually worn away by successive torrents of
water passing that way during abnormally wet
seasons. Had there been underlying rock here,
and a fault in the stratification occurred, what is
more natural to suppose than that in the course
of time the mass had become disintegrated by the
action of the water, and particles washed away,
leaving the more or less jagged edges exposed at

some points, while at others the subsidence of the
soil from above had created long sloping banks.
Here, then, is the
formation that
Nature, given one
more elementary
condition, would
have produced in this
position — long slop-
ing banks, broken
with rock outcrop,
the lines of which
show not only more
or less stratification,
but also the wearing
action of the water
has scarified and
worn distinct

crannies and crevices. Certain portions of the dis-
integrated masses have fallen at irregular intervals
from the main outcrop and lie helter-skelter at

various points along the banks and in the water.
Some of these become half buried as the upper soil
crumbles down between them, or as weeds ger-
minate, grow, die and decay among them, thus filling
the interstices and forming rich beds for future
generations of the vegetable world to thrive in.

There is, I know, a school of rockery constructors
who adhere rigidly to lines of stratification, and are
inclined to ignore the accidents of Nature, with the
result that their productions sometimes become
a series of more or less pronounced lines that fail to
adequately resemble the work of Nature, inasmuch
that they look too trim and tidy — too deliberately
" arranged." Nature is rather a slut in her work ;
she delights to drop untidy masses of all sorts of
things about, and then redeems her character by
covering them up picturesquely ; and it is by taking
full cognisance of the careless distribution she makes
of her rocks, when she separates them from the main
mass, that the really successful rock garden is
brought into being.

Here, then, is the ideal she sets before us ; now
to proceed to develop it. An artist about to paint
a picture prepares a few studies in proportion
to the work contemplated ; an architect prepares
plans and designs to scale and tests the effects of

•/I

H /^^'''JfrrT7~lifif ///>

ILH,jsti;atiu.\' siiowjNt:, ultimate

DEVELOPMENT
AND B.

OF SITE SHOWN IN SKETCHES A

C. TRANSVERSE SECTION ACROSS PLAN B.

his aspirations on paper ; and the successful rock
garden is the one that is carefully thought out and
plaimed previous to its commencement, although
it is quite impossible to accurately forecast all the
details of the effects to be obtained.

In the sketch plan B will be seen my sug-
gestion for dealing with the site. C is a trans-
verse section through the same. By comparing
these with the plan A it will be seen that the
pond is to be somewhat enlarged. Advantage
is to be taken of the difference in levels of some
8 feet or 9 feet between the water supply and the
level of the water in the pond, to create two smaller
rocky pools at different levels in the hillside, the
water finding its way to the pond through water-
worn crevices in the stone, forming in effect
miniature cascades (see Section A B). The general
lines upon which the stone is to be arranged are
shown in the plan, also the position and direction
of the paths. In fixing the positions for the
various masses, their relation to every other mass
must be carefully considered, and sufficient provision
must be made for planting positions. The results
of the ultimate development of this design
are seen in two photographs taken after the
stone was placed, but before planting. It must,
however, be borne in mind that the use of the plan
is rather to get a general idea of the scheme fixed in
our mind, as the shape of the stone used will, to a
very great extent, modify any preconceived notions
when it comes to the actual placmg of the stone,

Colckester. George Du,listons.

(To bi' continued.]

November ti, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

585

THE ROSE GARDEN.

IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.

Notes on Some Newer Roses,
HYBRID TEAS FOR EXHIBITION.

(Continued from page 574.)
Mrs. F. W. Vanderbilt (S. McGredy and Son,
1913)- — A very beautiful Rose this, the finest
product of all the crosses that have been made
with Lyon Rose. It is a more vigorous grower
than the majority of the Roses that have this
blood in their veins, and, fortunately, too, does
not seem to have the habit of " dying on ye,"
as the Irish say, that so far all the pemetiana Roses
have got very badly. I am hoping that as they get
further away from the original parent, so will this
very bad fault be eradicated. I am very much
afraid for this reason, if for no other, that Rayon
d'Or will never make a satisfactory bed or ever
be much good as a cut-back. Mrs. F. W. Vander-
bilt is a gold medal Rose, and although not a very
big flower, is a very beautiful one, both in colour
and shape — pale orange, shaded deep apricot,
almost copper colour, very free-flowering, and
will make a magnificent splash of colour in a bed
of a kind that is not conamon in our gardens.
Asked if it is any good for exhibition, I should say
sometimes, if you are lucky, you will get an early
flower big enough. The shape is there, but it is
on the small side for the extiibition box. Fragrant.

ANOTHER ILLUSTRATION TAKEN Al^TER THE ROCKVVOKK WAS COMPLETED.

know one would expect plenty of petals, as a matter
of fact there are frequently not more than three or

^.KtTCH SS.CTIOM
OM UIHE "AB" .

ARRANGEMENT OV POOLS AND SMALL CASCADES AT NORTHERN END OF PLAN B.

four rows. I had a really magnificent flower ul
great size and apparent substanc/ that stood for
days on the plant, and I out ( f
curiosity subsequently cou:ited the
petals, to find fifteen only. A
normal Rose would have at least
sixty, Bessie Brown 120 or nxorr.
Its petals, if few in number, are the
largest of any Rose that I have
come across. It keeps its shape in
a truly wonderful fashion, and can
be strongly recommended to the
exhibitor. This has been the third
season I have giown it, and it stood
almost as well in the hot season ol

Mrs. Forde (.\Iexander Dickson and
Sons, 1913). — This is the only Rose
out of the six new varieties that Messrs.
A. Dickson and Sons are sending out
this year that they call an exhibitor's
Rose — the other five are labelled
decorative — and a very fine exhibition
Rose Mrs. Forde will make. Beautiful
spiral shape, of good size and sub-
stance. The colour is delicate pink
flushed rose, a delightful combination.
The petals are almost circular, and
have the usual yellow base that one
connects with Tea blood. Distinctly
fragrant, with a scent all its own, of a
fruity kuid that the raisers call
tangerine ; but I cannot say that I
should quite call it that. Altogether
a beautiful Rose that will be welcome
in our gardens. I see I marked it as
one of the best of the new seedlings
that I saw at Newtownards last year.
It is a good strong grower, and I shall
look forward to flowering it next year
with a good deal of pleasure.

Mrs. J. H. Welch (S. McGredy and
Son, 191 1). — This is one of the curiosi-
ties among Roses. It is a veritable
balloon, for though it is, as shown, of
the orthodox shape, and if one did not

n

SKETCH B. PLAN OF ROCK AND WATER GARDEN FOR SITE SHOWN IN PLAN A.

586

THE GARDEN.

[November 22, 1913.

1911 as it has done these last two years. It occa-
sionally comes a particularly brilliant colour, as
striking as anything I know in pinks, bat its normal
colour is quite good. It is a tall and whippy, but
not particularly vigorous grower. The buds have a
very large caly.x ; imusually so. It has been well
shown by the trade and amateurs alike throughout
the season, and has come to stay, notwithstanding
its peculiarities. It is slightly fragrant, and even
when fully open with flowers as large as saucers
it is beautiful. It figured in Mr. Mawley's selected
twenty, and I see occupies quite a high place,
as I should have expected, in his Analysis of
exhibition Roses. It is a gold medal Rose.

Mrs. Muir MacKean (S. McGredy and Son,
1912). — This Rose can be best described as an
improved Mrs. A. E. Coxhead. The colour is
deeper and more of a crimson carmine. It is
also a good shape, the petals perhaps not quite
so large as Mrs. A. E. Coxhead, but very free-

in the nurseries. I think it will quickly take a
prominent place, as the flowers seemed so uniformly
good.

Mrs. Wallace H. Rowe (S. McGredy and Son,
I9r2). — A Hybrid Perpetual like growth, but a
very fine flower severely handicapped by its colour
description. In all catalogues it is called Sweet
Pea mauve — enough to prevent anyone buying it.
It is really a good carmine pink, quite a pleasant
shade. It is robust rather than vigorous. The
flowers are of good substance and finish, and in-
variably come a good shape ; the colour lasts and
does not fade.

St. Helena (B. R. Cant and Sons, 1912). —
This Rose has been frequently exhibited during
the season, but I cannot say much about it from
my own experience, as something went wrong
with my plants. It is a beautiful shape, with a
good spiral centre reminiscent of Joseph Hill,
both in colour and form. Of the twenty new Roses

THREE

W

AN EFFECTIVE GROUPING OF PERENNIAL CANDYTUFT, THRIFT AND SAXIFKAObb IN A LONDON

GARDEN.

flowering and deliciously fragrant. A good grower
and not subject to mildew, very reliable ^jid always
in flower.

Mrs. Sam Ross (Hugh Dickson, Limited, 1912). —
A beautiful Rose this, useful for both purposes,
a light yellow, shading to a deeper colour, with a
flush of buff on the outside of the petals. It has
not yet had time to get known, but it will be wanted
when it is. A refined Rose, very free-flowering,
a good grower and sweetly fragrant. 1 think it is
the best of this firm's 1912 set. Gold medal at
the Royal Botanic Show, 1911.

Mrs. R. D. M'Clure (Hugh Dickson, 1913).—
This is a beautiful-shaped variety of a clear salmon
pink self ; good pointed flowers. A fine, strong,
vigorous grower, free-flowering, that holds its
flowers well erect. I was very much taken with it
at the Belfast Show last year, where it received
the gold medal, and my impressions were subse-
quently more than confirmed when I saw it growing

it found its way into the first half-dozen as a result
of the combined voting of the trade and amateurs,
so there is not much fault to find with it. The
raisers have been able to show it consistently
throughout the season. It was awarded the gold
medal of the National Rose Society at the South-
ampton 1912 Show.

This concludes my notes on the Hybrid Teas
that might be useful to exhibitors. Next week I
will deal with the Teas for exhibition, and then
start on the decorative or garden Roses, which are
a popular class.

Soutliampton. Herbert E. Molyneu.x.

{To be continued.)

[We take this opportunity of thanking the
many readers who have sent us letters of apprecia-
tion respecting Mr. Molyneux's notes. Some of
these have come from Hong-Kong, New Zealand,
and other distant countries, where Rose cultivation
is evidently making great progress. — Ed.]

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATE 1481,

GOOD GARDEN ROSES.

E are frequently asked to name
Roses that can be relied upon
to give a good display over a
long period, and which are, in
other respects, well adapted for
massing and thus creating good
effects in the garden. Fortunately, there is now
a good host to select from, and the three shown in
the coloured plate presented with this issue ought
to be grown wherever good Roses are appreci^ited.
All are of comparatively recent introduction,
and all can be obtained from any good Rose
nurseryman at nominal prices. If we had to select
the best of the three, our choice would be'

Arthur R. Goodwin. This is pmrely a garden
Rose, and of no use for e.xhibition except in those
classes specially provided for Roses of
this kind. It makes a very compact
and neat bush, never mildews, flowers
from June until well into October, and
the blooms present several difierent
phases of colouring. The half-opened
buds are very charming indeed, the
colour at that stage being a sort of
vivid coppery orange, with a suspicion
of scarlet on the outside. Two other
stages of development and colouring are
well portrayed in the coloured plate.
Unlike most other Roses, the petals
hang on a long time after the flowers
are full blown, a feature that is desir-
able in a garden Rose, as the display
is thereby prolonged. Arthur R.
Goodwin was put into commerce in
1910 by M. Pernet-Ducher, and is
classed as an Austrian Hybrid. The
next in ord'^r ci' merit is

Lady Alice Stanley. This Hybrid
Tea really ought to be bracketed with
Arthur R. Goodwin it it behaves as
well with everyone as it has done
with us. It resembles Mrs. Wakefield
Christie-Miller in colour, but the flowers
are of much better shape, and some
that we have had this year have been
([uite up to exhibition standard. The
bush is vigorous, yet neat, and the large
leaves of leathery texture, so that they
withstand mildew effectively. The
blooms are borne on stout, erect stems,
and the depth ot colouring to be seen
in them as they unfold is marvellous. On the
8th inst. we cut two beautiful flowers of this from
one bush, and we owe a great debt of gratitude to
Messrs. McGredy and Sons for sending it out in 1909.
George C. Waud we approach with some diffi-
dence. It is decidedly below the two others as
a garden Rose, yet it must be grown for its colour-
ing, which is quite unlike that of any other variety.
The official description of it is rose suffused orange
and scarlet, but that scarcely conveys to the mind
the vivid, fire-like intensity that one sees in the
garden. But, alas ! it is not mildew-proof, although
not nearly so badly addicted to it as some varieties.
Then, the flowers often come with rather badly-
shaped centres. But it is vigorous, free and sweetly
scented. It was sent out in 1908 by Messrs.
Alex. Dickson and Sons, and is classed as a Hybrid
Tea. We are ijidebted to Messrs. H. Merryweather
and Sons of Southwell, Notts, for the flowers from
which the coloured plate was prepared.

Supf>it'iiicni to THE GARDEN, November 22nd, 1913.

THREE GOOD GARDEN ROSES—

Yellow : Arthur R. Goodwin.
Pink : Lady Alice Stanley
Red : George C. Waud.

Httdson & Kearns, Ltd., Printers. London. S.E

November 22, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

587

THE FLOWER GARDEN

DAFFODIL NOTES.

/

may surprise some readers to know that there
are at least four centres in the two islands where
special shows are held this season — Auckland, end of
August ; Christchurch, September 12 and 13, and
New Zealand Jottings. — I was interested to 1 a second on September 24 and 25 ; North Otago,

Had the cutting of the Auckland 1913 Show, September 25 ; and Dunedin, October i and 2.

sent by Mr. Chapman, in The Garden of There may be more ; if so, I hope some New

November i. I can supplement that by an extract , Zealander will kindly supply the omission.

from the LyUeUon Times of the Canterbury Show, Narcissus Beethoven. — Some readers may re-

where, too, a large number of seedlings were shown : member that I once sang the praises of a Van der

" Special interest at this show centres in the seedling I Schoot variety called Astra. I feel I owe everyone

exhibits, and these were on this

occasion represented by a very fine

array of blooms. Four of these,

shown by the Hon. R. H. Rhodes

(Tai Tapu), were awarded the

society's certificate. They com-
prised Sea Swallow, a sport from

Seagull ; Otahuna, a large cream-
coloured trumpet with a white

perianth ; Mararoa, a white-

perianthed incomparabilis ; antl

Minaret, a pale canary-coloured

trumpet with a white perianth

-Ml these blooms were of largr

size and great beauty, and soni'

were considered superior to the best

English seedlings of the kind (■!

which there is record

Mr. Biggs showed a quaint uovelty

in the form of an e.xtremeU-

attenuated and slender yellow

bloom, a seedling from cyclamineus

and a trumpet."

It is pleasant to know that our

New Zealand brethren are just as

busy as we are with seedling-
raising, and that their money has

not been spent in vain, for many

are the golden sovereigns that they

have sent to the Old Country for

" good things," and it would be

discouraging to a degree if there

were no results to reward their

courage and their pains. I do not,

however, think it is Sic transit

*' everything here " just yet.

Sporting in Daffodils. — Up to

now authentic cases of permanent
sporting have been very few.
Barbara Holmes is said to ha\c
come from Barri conspicuus. This
and a sport of my own from Seagull
are the only ones I can recall at th<'
moment. Tlie appearance of Sea
Swallow is most interesting. It at
once suggests the thoughts : " Has
the time of life come when Seagull
will give sports ? " and " Will other
\arieties have this tendency ? "
I imagine that such things are
possible. For a good many years
I held the entire stock of China
Ware, which I bought from the
late Mr. Haydon. Every spring I
have invariably found several liowers m which
there was a considerable amount of a deeper
yellow than the normal pale citrony shade.
Latterly I have used such flowers in " cross-
ing," in the hope that their unstable tendency
may produce something novel in their offspring.
I have never noticed any other variety so sportive.
Are there others, and are any of them permanent ?
New Zealand Shows.— From a private letter
I am able to compile an approximate list. It

this particular time to do so because I see, in The
Garden for November i, a good illustration of it
in Bees' advertisement, and, as they say so truly,
" lest you [that is, I] forget." It is a most attrac-
tive garden plant, and it is " not so dusty " in pots
under glass. It has these qualities to recommend
it : (i) Colour — a sunshiny yellow, almost exactly
the shade of the lovely Autocrat ; (2) earliness —
a real good doer to come in early is wanted ;
{3) fjoriferousness — it is " very free " ; (4) constitu-
tion— most robust ; (5) rapid increaser ; (6) good
in pots ; (7) distinct shape — the
curious, roughly jagged trumpet is
striking. Points against it : None
that I know of, except it be length
of stem, which might be a bit longer
from a cut flower point of view ; or
its shape, which I think pleasing
^ and graceful when I am an ordi-

nary mortal and not one of the
modem " curious " — a judge at a
show. I recently took part in the
letter-writing in a very lengthy
discussion re the judgment of
the chefs at the Royal Horticultural
Society's Vegetable Show. I said
a vegetable for show is one thing
and a vegetable for use is another.
(If a good cook does not know
what he wants for cooking, why
should a gardener ?) So with
Daffodils. " Show " and " garden "
varieties may be the same, but more
often, perhaps, they are not. It is'
the garden award that I pin on
Beethoven's breast. Having just
said all this, may I here be allowed
to say I read the two articles by
" Somerset " with great interest ?
My reply is simmering.

Joseph Jacob.
P.S. — Since writuig the foregoing
I have been told by a grower of cut
flowers for market, who had some
of my Beethoven in his garden
last spring, that he found it to be
a great favourite and that it com-
manded a ready sale. — J. J.

A NOVEMBEK FLOWER (kNiPHOFIA MULXIlLOU.^). THIS HANDSOME
SPECIES IS WORTHY OF A SHELTERED NOOK IN SOUTHERN GARDENS.

an apology for doing so. It is a lovely, uncommon
shade of pale yellow, and for several years did
splendidly. But iii the very nest season after my
remarks appeared " something happened," and
now I would be glad to take sixpence a hundred
for all I have. Once bitten, twice shy. I have
waited patiently before I " passed my opinion " on
another of Messrs. Van der Schoot's bantlings —
Beethoven. I am making no mistake in writing
this down as a first-class variety, and I have chosen

TWO WHITE KNIPHOFIAS.

I HAVE for many years rather
prided myself on the possession of a
sort of second sight that comes to
my aid when I am asked to name a
plant from an imperfect description.
Of course, when I am questioned as
to a puzzling tree, I ask, " Can it be
a Hornbeam ? " and in ninety-nine
cases out of a hundred it is ; but
I mean more than that, and the
puzzling plant that has roots — well,
just ordinary roots — in the ground,
you know, and a stem grooving
straight up and green leaves of
some forgotten shape and a pink flower at the
top of the stem, don't you know, &c., is often
revealed lo me by a process that I claim no credit
for, as it must be more intuitive than deductive.
But a few questions like those one uses in playing
the good old game of " clumps " : " Are its leaves
simple like a Violet's ? " " No." " Then perhaps
finely cut like Fennel ? " " Yes." " Is it a
Cosmos ? " " Ah, yes, I remember now that
s what Mrs. Brown called it." And there we are;

588

THE GARDEN.

[NovfiMfetR ■I'i, 19*3.

but I felt at the beginning it was a Cosmos, and
goodness alone knows how or why. There are
two Kniphofias, though, that, unless I had just
seen one of them, would, I feel almost certain,
never come into my head even it fairly well de-
scribed. One's idea of a Kniphofia is that it should
be a Red Hot Poker, and a white heat is not
expected of it. Yet there are two, not often-seen
species, in which the flowers are unusually small
and white or slightly greenish, and are produced
on spikes unusually long and slender in build for
this genus. K. modesta was discovered by Mr.
Tyson in Griqualand East in 1884, 6,000 feet
above sea-level, and later by Mr. Medley Wood
in Natal, whence plants were sent to Kew. It
is a charming and dainty plant, but, unfortunately,
none too robust, and in spite of my care I could
not make it happy here in the open air, and it
died after a short illness.

The other, K. multiflora, is a much more robust
plant, also from Natal, and makes a fine specimen
plant in favoured climates, such as those of Cornwall
and Southern Ireland. Its long, channelled
leaves are of a pleasingly rich green, and have an
air of distinction that produces a sub-tropical
effect. The flower-spikes are narrow, but densely
furnished for a great length with the small, tubular,
greenish white flowers, and have something of the
general appearance of some species of Eremurus.
Unfortunately, they seldom attempt to open before
late October or even November, and so in all but
the warmest gardens of our islands they are in
most seasons so severely snubbed by Jack Frost
that they fail to get over his cruelty. This season
has been wonderfully favourable to such late-
flowering plants, and a bed of this Kniphofia in
front of the Orchid Houses at Kew has flowered
splendidly, producing over sixty spikes. Some
good specimens were exhibited at the last meeting
of the Royal Horticultural Society also. It is
a plant quite worthy of a sheltered nook and a
little protection, such as a mat will afford, on
nights when frost threatens in mid-October ;
and then in some seasons it will make a fine display
just when most of the outdoor plants have ceased
flowering, and is perhaps all the more welcome
on this account.

Waltham Cross. E. A. Bowles.

SWEET PBAS: SOME REFLECTIONS
AND HINTS.

The season now closing has not been kind to
the Sweet Pea. From the time of planting
right through its growing period it has had
to withstand the most inclement weather. A
period of cold, damp days immediately followed
planting out, and little or no growth was possible ;
then in May came a sudden spell of almost semi-
tropical sun-heat, with drying winds and cold
nights, and later on, when the sun would have
been beneficial, it kept itself hidden in a sky
of hodden grey. Could anything be happy under
such conditions ? Yet if a brief on behalf of the
culture of the Sweet Pea were needed, the very
inclemency of the weather would support it, for
at all the prominent shows some wonderful exhibits
of Sweet Peas were staged, showing that, despite
the prevailing imcongenial conditions, the Sweet
Pea had flourished, amply repaying the grower for
the labour bestowed on it with its wealth of fragrant
flowers. A survey of the season reveals an increasing
interest by the public in this lovely flower. At
the principal London and provmcial shows the
biggest crowds were generally round the Sweet
Pea exhibits, and although no startlmgly striking

novelty has attracted attention, yet among this
year's novelties are several of sterling worth which
will replace some of the older varieties, as they
supersede them both in size and colour. A pleasing
and gratifying fact frequently noticed was that
Countess Spencer, Constance Oliver, Dorothy
Eckford, Etta Dyke, John Ingman, Mrs. Hugh
Dickson, Tom Bolton and several other old friends
still hold a prominent position among the exhibits,
showing that they retain the admiration they imme-
diately gained on their introduction several years ago,
and are fulfilling all that was predicted of thera.

KIPNHOFIA MODESTA, A DAINTY SPECIES
WITH SMALL WHITE FLOWERS.

The most disquieting fact recorded this summer,
and one which is more fatal to the progress of
Sweet Pea culture than either streak, mildew, or
any other disease, is the awful " mixture " which
resulted from growing seed sent out by some seeds-
men. Deplorable examples of impure seed were
seen again and again, and this flooding of tlic market
with imreliable seed is more venomous tliau any
fungi attack and more invidious. "Sporting" will
always occur more or less, and some varieties are
very prone to it ; but the majority of our leading
firms have the welfare of the Sweet Pea at heart,
and pay the most scrupulous care in " rogueing "
that their stocks can be thoroughly relied upon,

and it is false economy to buy seed from other
than the best raisers. Of course, one has heard
the inevitable complaints of disease (streak, leaf
spot and mildew), and some sorry wrecks have
been seen. However, the conclusion arrived at
is that the cause of the majority of failures is
ignorance — culpable ignorance, one might say, in
many instances. One grower complained of all
the buds dropping, and why ? A glance upon
the surface of the soil revealed sufficient chemical
for a row fifty times the length, and an extraordinary
amount of manure also had been trenched into
the groimd previously to planting. Numerous
complaints of leaves turning yellow and plants
refusing to grow have resulted, in most cases, upon
examination to be the result of " digging a grave "
for the Sweet Peas. A veritable reservoir of putrid
mud and manure was what the Sweet Peas were
expected to delight in. The word " trenching "
has many deaths laid at its door. Several
not failing in cultural detail were sadly disappointed,
and one in particular had given his Sweet Peas
almost perfect culture, and yet not a bloom was
the colour he saw at the National Sweet Pea
Society's show. How could that be ? I give his
list of excellent varieties : Thomas Stevenson,
Afterglow, Lady Miller, Charles Foster, Flora
Norton Spencer and Barbara. " Protection from
the elements " was suggested, and although much
surprised, he followed the advice and in a few days
beheld blossoms equal to those which had capti-
vated him at the show. Thus it is that through
ignorance of cultural details, or of the habit and
nature of the variety selected, many have met with
disappointment and have been deprived of the joy
and beauty which is peculiar to the Sweet Pea alone.
Much has been written about the Sweet Pea,
but many people do not yet know its ease of culti-
vation and are often oblivious to its history. The
purpose of this and future articles is to place a
simple, concise statement of fact before the reader,
dealing with every phase of Sweet Pea life, and,
if possible, to remove the ignorance which is the
cause of most of the failures so often attributed
to either the seedsman or the Sweet Pea. A
word of warning must be added against a too literal
adhesion to the hints set forth in any one paper.
It is impossible to generalise for the whole country ;
but the suggestions made will be such that, with
the combination of common sense and knowledge
(■f the particular district concerned, will prove to
give the desired successful Sweet Peas. The first
consideration, as it is autumn, is the stork. As has
already been mentioned, certain growers have either
wittingly or unwittingly sent out unfixed and untrue
stocks, and such seed has been, and is, a source of
much vexation. Every grower of Sweet Peas
should therefore procure his seed from a reputable
firm, and preferably from one recognised as a raiser
of first-class varieties. The advertisement columns
of The Garden will provide the names of several
leading firms who grow their seed under their own
supervision, scrupulously rogueing it, thereby
guaranteeing it true to name and of excellent quality.
Having obtained a catalogue, buy the seed as early
as possible in the autumn, and so be assured
of gettmg the varieties you require.

Selection of Varieties. — The selection of suit-
able varieties is by no nreans the task of a
novice, but requires well-considered discernment
between the many names that meet the eye in
every list. As the subject is so important, it will
receive full treatment in a future article, together
with criticisms of some of the novelties offered
this autumn and a list ol the best. S. M. C.

November 22, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

586

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO PLANT ROSES.

THE increasing love of Roses every year
leads amateur cultivators and others
to plant the trees in great numbers
each autUEan, and, indeed, as late as
March in the following spring. Unless
unavoidable, late planting should not
be the rule. It may, and does, result in retarding
the new growths in the spring, and thus they escape
injury by late frosts ; but the plants sometimes
suffer afterwards when long spells of dry weather
come. Autumn planting is best. Before any
Rose trees are put in, the different positions for
them should be selected, so as to plant those
varieties in each section that will answer the
pxirpose best, as Roses are valuable plants for
pergolas, arches, arbours, pillars, walls and trellises,
as well as for lawn and other beds.

The Soil. — This, the rooting medium, is a
very important item in connection with Rose-
growing. It varies considerably in different parts
of the country, and where poor or gravelly must
be improved. A good friable loam of a retentive
nature is the best, and, where such obtains, very
little need be done to it beyond breaking it up to
a depth of at least i8 inches. The top portion
must be kept there, the bottom being broken up,
but retained below. Poor soils must be treated
in the same way, and, when possible, some soil
of a heavier nature added. The actual manuring
of the ground should not be done before growth is
free early in May.

Grassy Ground. — In new gardens and where
fresh land is dealt with, it often means that the
cultivator must deal with grassy gromid. Now,
such land needs special attention, and if well treated
the Roses will do remarkably well in it. There

HOW TO PLANT ROSES IN THE OPEN GARDEN.

is no opportunity to trench the ground, but it
may be treated in an almost like manner, the
Roses being planted at the same time. The ground
must be deeply dug and the subsoil well broken.
The positions for the Roses should be marked
as the work proceeds, taking care to chop up and

B

rrrrJ'^^^'^'

METHODS OF PLANTING ROSES UNDER GLASS, AND FOR PEGCING DOWN

OUTDOORS.

bury the grass portion a little deeper than between
the positions marked for the plants.

How to Plant the Roses. — When received
from the nursery, if the weather is open, impack the
bundles at once and soak the roots in water, and
then get the Roses planted as soon as possible.
In Fig. A, No. I shows a medium strong Tea
Rose, and No. 2 a strong Hybrid Perpetual. All
badly-damaged roots, as shown at No. 3, must be
cut off. Make holes — before the trees are received
— as shown at No. 4, having them large enough to
accommodate the roots without undue cramping.
The crosses in No. 5 show how to dispose the
Roses. An edging of London Pride or Cerastium
tomentosum is very effective. No. 6 shows how
to plant a Rose so that its roots will be clear of
the post. No. 7. Roses near garden paths may be
planted and trained on wires as shown at No. 8.
Painted iron rods should support the wires, every
third bar being a little stronger than the others.

How to Plant Roses Under Glass. — The principle
of plantmg Roses in brick pits under the stages,
as shown at No. i, Fig. B, is much better than
planting them in the sour soil beneath, as shown at
No. 2. The plants in pits are stronger. When
planting against outside walls, the Roses should
be so put in that their roots are quite clear of the
foundation portion of the wall, as denoted in No. 3.
Plant standards in just the same way as dwarfs,
but keep the stake clear of the stem, as shown
at No. 4, and have the stake long enough to allow
of the head being secured to it, as shown at No. 5.
Roses planted for pegging-down purposes must
be in well-prepared ground, as it will prove difficult
to attend to their roots afterwards. Peg down
the shoots as shovra at No. 6, placing the branches
as evenly apart as possible. No. 7 shows how the
surface mulch must be laid on to protect the roots
and not unduly bury the stem. G. G.

590

THE GARDEN.

November 22, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Pleasure Grounds.

Lawns. — To keep these in really good con-
dition they should be periodically weeded, and at
no season do the weeds come out easier than at
present. Though there are several weed eradi-
cators to be had, I have not yet found one to beat
the old two-pronged Daisy grubber.

The Rose Garden.

Where the Rose garden is in close proximity
to large trees, considerable difficulty will be found
in keeping the roots of the latter from robbing
the Roses, and it is astonishing how quickly the
good soil of the Rose-beds gets monopolised by
the tree roots unless' precautions are observed.
In some instances I have seen galvanised iron
put round the beds on the side from which the
roots come ; but, in addition to being expensive,
the roots soon find their wav either under or over
this. The best plan, I think, is to take out a narrow
trench around the tree or trees at a distance that
is not likely to permanently injure them, cutting
all the roots and filling in again ; and if this
happens to be a few feet from the Rose-beds,
it should prove effective for at least two or three
years.

Rose Planting must be pushed forward as much
as possible. The late growth of the Roses has
prevented them being lifted very early ; but if
the long growths are shortened back when the
plants are lifted, and not allowed to remain out
of the groimd too long, the plants should be in a
better condition to stand the winter than those
not shifted. 1 have frequently noticed that
replanted Roses have suffered much less from frost
than others not so treated.

Plants Under Glass.

Sweet Peas for flowering under glass should
be making a nice sturdv growth, and though it
is not imperative that "they should be removed
from the cold frame, a stage or shelf in a quite cool
house will suit their requirements well. If the
plants are in quite small pots, give a shift on
as soon .as the roots appear to require it ; if in
single pots, 4j-iuch will be large enough ; if several
plants in a 4|-inch pot, then a 6-inch or 8J-inch
should serve them till they are placed in their
flowering pots early in the year.

Poinsettias that may have been used for the
conservatory or been used for the decoration of
the house should be placed in a cool house and
gradually dried off. Late batches must be care-
fully treated to keep the bracts in good condition,
careful watering and a moderately dry atmosphere
being quite essential now they have attained full
size.

Euphorhiajacquiniaeflora should still be growing,

and a little we.ik liquid manure may be employed
to help them to push their flower-buds. As this
flower lasts well, it is advisable to keep it in reserve,
as good, bright'subjects are not so plentiful after
Christmas as they are at present.

Zonal Pelargoniums.— These are now making
a brave show, or should be, and to preserve the
flowers in good condition a dry atmosphere must
be maintained, with plenty of air during the day.
Fog is perhaps the worst enemy of Zonal Pelar-
goniums during the winter, so during foggy weather
the ventilators must be kept practically closed,
or the whole of the opened petals will drop. Young
plants rooted in the autumn and intended for an
early summer display must be kept growing steadily
in a moderately warm house or frame near the
glass, stopping the young plants when a few inches
high to induce a bushy habit of growth.

The Vegetable Garden.

Broad Beans sown early in the month will,
owmg to the unusuallv mild weather, be quickly
through the ground, and it may be advisable to
pull a little soil over the young plants if sharp
frosts are expected. If the soil is in a good, work-
able condition, it might be wise to make another
sowing, as the frost is much more likely to injure
large than small plants during the months of
January and February.

Peas should be sooted as they come through
the soil, to prevent the ravages of slugs. Also it

is advisable to place black cotton over the rows or
cover them with Pea protectors to keep off the
birds.

Celery. — in the event of severe frost, a cover-
ing of dry straw should be given to the rows to
protect tlie hearts, removing it as soon as the
spell of frost is over. On heavy land it is some-
times advisable to place ridge-shaped boards over
the rows to keep the water off ; but it is only neces-
sary where the soil is of such a nature as to rot
the hearts during wet weather.

Fruits Under Glass.

Early Vineries. — in most establishments where
there are two or more vineries, the end of November
or early December is a very suitable lime for
starting the early house. The' first few days after
closing the house the temperature should not
be raised too high, even by sim-heat, and
no artificial heat should be required. If the
weather is fine, a light spraying over the floor,
walls and rods during the early part of the day
should ensure sufficient moisture in the atmosphere
of the house, which may be slightly increased where
fire-heat is employed.

Early Peach-House. — The same remarks apply
here, and an even more strictly moderate tempera
tnre must be employed at the commencement.
Early Peach trees have a tendency to drop their
buds' ; hence the necessity of a very gradual rise
of the sap. If very light syringings are employed
and the roots are in a nice moderately moist con-
dition, the chances are they will come away well ;
but no attempt at hurrj-ing'the trees must be made
till the fruits are set.

Pot Vines and Peaches should also be started,
observing the same cultural conditions, but it
will be noted that these will come away quicker
than the trees and Vines established in the borders,
as the pots will get warmed through very quickly.
Watering must be carefully done, and though the
plants do not require much water at this season,
thev must on no account be allowed to get dry.
Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Trenching. — The past summer has supplied
an object-lesson as to the advantages of deep culti-
vation. It is to be commended for almost every
class of plants : but for such subjects as Sweet
Peas, Dahlias, Hollyhocks and other gross feeders
it is imperative if good results are to be obtained.
Bastard-trenching, or double digging as it is
sometimes called, is preferable to trenching proper.
By the former method the top and bottom spits
are left in their respective positions ; whereas by
the latter method the cold, inert soil is brought
to the surface.

Protecting Christmas Roses. — These will be

improved in qnalitv bv having the protection of
a frame with abundance of air. Should severe
frost occur, however, the lights should be closed,
and a mat be thrown over each light, or the
blooms will suffer to some extent.

Cleaning Gladioli.— if the stock was placed
in boxes among sand or light soil and stored in a
shed, the foliage will have ripened by now. The
plants should be gone over on a wet day, the foliage
removed, and the corms cleaned and stored away
in a cool, dry place until wanted in spring.

The Rose Garden.

Supports for Climbers. — Attention should be
given to the condition of the various kinds of sup-
ports to which climbers are trained — trellises, poles,
arches, pergolas, &c.^and where any repairs are
necessary, thev should be carried through during the
dormant" season. The painting of any of those
subjects requiring it should also have attention
if the weather is favourable.

The Shrubbery.
Pruning Deciduous Shrubs.— With a few

e.'iceptions this work should be proceeded with
when frost is absent. Exceptions are Forsythias
and varieties of Pyrus japonica, which should both

be pruned immediately after the plants have
flowered. The Forsythias are generally grown as
climbers, but they make excellent bush plants for
the shrubbery.

Plants Under Glass.

Autumn - Sown Annuals. — Schizanthuses,
Mignonette and varieties of Clarkia elegans require
close attention during the winter months. Pinching
must be resorted to, Schizanthuses requiring the
operation to be performed several times to induce
a bushy habit. Mignonette and Clarkia require
careful watering. The latter should be kept
rather dry, or damping is sure to ensue.

Pruning Climbers. — Attention should be given
to this work. Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums and
Fuchsias should be cut well back to the old wood,
and a good general rule is never to retain more
shoots than can have their foliage fully exposed
to the light.

Vitis benryana. — This beautifully-variegated
Vine deserves to be more widely known. I have
seen it recommended for the open wall, but for
Scotland generally I fear it must be regarded ai-
a conservatory climber.

Fruits Under Glass.

Pot Fruits. — If not already attended to, any
trees requiring repotting should have attention
forthwith. The aim of the cultivator, however,
should be to retain the plants in their present
pots as long as possible, consistent with their
being maintained in a healthy and fruitful state.
These conditions can often be maintained for a
number of years by judicious top-dressing and
feeding. After attention has been given to re-
potting and top-dressing, the pots should be
plunged in some loose material, such as spent
Hops or Cocoanut fibre, to protect the roots from
frost.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Pruning Wall Fruit Trees. — This work should
be pushed forward when the weather is dry and
frost does not occur. The work of pruning Pears
is much the same as that of pruning Apples, referred
to last week. The Apricot bears its fruit partly
on wood of the previous year's growth and partly
on spurs two or three years old. -Ml older spurs
should be periodically cut away. Young shoots
should be laid in about ten inches or twelve inches
apart and be shortened to about a foot in length.
The Peach bears on the previous year's wood,
and young wood should in summer be laid in as
advised for the .Apricot. The shoots which have
borne fruit during the past season should now be
cut away.

Protecting Figs. — Where Figs are grown on
the open wall, they should be protected during
frosty weather bv a screen of Broom, Heather,
Bracken or Wheat straw.

The Vegetable Garden.

The Rubbish-Heap. — if the full value of the
rubbish-heap is to be obtained, it should not be
allowed to lie until by natural processes it again
becomes a mass of earth, but should at the end
of the season be fumed over and a considerable
quantity of quicklime incorporated with it. The
lime will accelerate the process of decomposition
and render the mass available for the vegetable
crops to assimilate its fcrtiHsing properties at the
earliest possible moment after it has been dug into
the soil previous to cropping in the spring.

Herbs. — All herbs which have not already been
cut down should now be cut over. The ground
should be cleared of any remaining weeds and
then be dug over.

Horse-Radish. — This is often a much-neglected
crop. On .iccount of its tenacity of life it is a
popular fallacy that it may be allowed to take
care of itself. ' On the contrary, if thick, succulent
thongs (the only kind worth' having) are to be
produced, the crop must be very liberally culti-
vated. Now is the time to prepare for spring
planting. Dig a trench from 2| feet to 3 feet
deep and fill it with decayed vegetable matter,
leaf-mould and stable manure ; then it will be
ready for the reception of the crop in the early
spring.

Cauliflower Plants. — Young plants in frames
or plant protectors must not be allowed to suffer
for the want of water, and, while they must be pro-
tected from severe frost, they should be fully
exposed in mild weather. CuARrES Co.mfokt.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midiothiun.

November 22, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

591

WISLEY'S NEED OF
COLLECTOR.

THE following letter, which ^appeared in
last week's issue of Country Life, is
of more than ordinary interest to
Fellows of the Royal Horticultural
Society and to flower-lovers generally ;
" Among your many readers there
are doubtless a large proportion of those
pi rsons whose names may be found in that
li^tinguished list of 13,000 who are Fellows of
till- Ruyal Horticultural Society, and I therefoe
venture to hope that you will kindly ask for
thi- views of those among them who are pre-
-iiinably not only interested in gardening, but
.11 r also loyal friends of that fine and important
society, on the following criticisms, which are made
in the spirit of the lover who cannot bear imperfec-
tions in the beloved. There has never been a time,
1 imagine, like the present when so many new
and exciting plants and shrubs have been sent to
this country from all parts of the world, when
there is hardly a nurseryman of repute who does
not send someone to the mountain fastnesses
of Spain, Italy or China armed with enthusiasm
and a trowel. Mr. Wilson and Mr. Forrest, both
sent out by the enterprise of two ^f our biggest
nursery-gardeners, are doing splendid work of this
kind, and a special tribute to the admirable and
scientific methods of Mr. Forrest was pa d by
Professor Bayley Balfour at the Primul.i Confc rence
of the Royal Horticultural Society in .\pril 01 this
year. And yet — the rock garden at Wisiey is
dependent on the generosity of those Fellows
who may choose to furnish it with thiir gifts of
ch.arity and superfluity. Surely the time has come
when the Royal Horticultural Society should
have a collector of their own. Ought it to be a
fact that we owe practically every new introduction
of recent years, not to the Royal Horticultural
Society, but to private individuals, or the enter-
prise of nursery-gardeners ? I am not expert
enough in figures to make any deduction from tlie
balance-sheet of the Royal Horticultiu-al Soc tiy,
published in the August Journal, but if the
Society cannot afford a collector, surely among
that 13,000 there are, at least, 1,000 who would
gladly give a guinea a year towards this object
for the honour of the Royal Horticultural
Society and in the interests of horticulture.
I am told that the objection to this would
be that such subscribers would demand their
annual pound of fiesh in return in the shape
of new plants ; but, personally, I do not believe
this would be so. I feel sure that they would
willingly wait until such time as the plants had been
proved and propagated at Wisiey, when, possibly,
a priority, according to the amount subscribed,
might be arranged at the time when we all of us
receive that exciting and unexpected little box
of plantlets from Wisiey. Again, it may be lu'ged
that there is a danger in all the indiscriminate
collecting that is now going on of certain rare
species being exterminated by the zeal .and ignor-
ance of the amateur rock gardener, but this is
I really no argument, as anyone who has visited
even the smallest comer of the European Alps
knows that ' rarity ' means ' locality,' and that
in their own habitat these things grow in such
countless miUions that all the nurserymen in
England could not exterminate them. By all
means let the Swiss protect their Edelweiss, if
they think it worth doing. We do not want it ;
and, if we do, there are lawns where it grows

in the short alpine turf like English Daisies —
just as there are other places where you may sit
and munch your unappetising hotel sandwiches
on an acre-wide carpet of Eritrichium nanum.
Again, it may be said that this work should be
done by Kew, but the gardens at Kew are not only
more bmited in space, but are hampered by their
proximity to London smoke and fog. Wisiey
gives up a large amount of ground and labour
to the trials of such things as Violas and Dahlias,
not to mention such utilitarians as Green Peas and
Potatoes, which is work, I would humbly suggest,
that might be equally well done by any nursery-
man ; but if lack of space is any argument against
an extensive trial of new trees, plants, shrubs, or
alpine plants, surely much useful work might be
undertaken by wealthy Fellows with large gardens
and expensive troops of highly-trained gardeners,
and it would also be done more usefully in different
parts of England, under more varied climatic
conditions — and it woiJd not be a difficult
matter, one would think, to arrange for an annual
report from these Fellows, or an inspector from the
Wisiey Gardens. There is one more point I would
like to urge. Referring to parasraph 14 of ' Notes
to Fellows ' in the last iiumbc. of the Journal,
I find the following : ' In a Ruyal Horticultural
Society ' garden every single detail ' should teach
something,' etc. This is an admirable maxim,
but I should like to mention (in a low voice) that
many of the labels in the rock garden at Wisiey
teach things which were better untaught. Now,
I do seriously think, Mr. Editor, that the gardens
of the Royal Horticultural Society ought to be
above reproach in this matter. It is not an easy
thing to name Saxifrages, for instance, but there
are people who can do it, and I maintain that it
is a comparatively easy thing to avoid such mistakes
as labelhng a very common and well-known Linaria
as * requitriloba ' — which is neither Latin nor
anylliing else — to mention only one instance.
No doubt many of tliese misfortunes arise from
hellows sending plants with illegibly written
labels (I would not like to say with falsely written
ones), and one does not expect the best rock fore-
man in the world to know everything ; but there
are plenty of experts, and why should not someone
be asked to see that, at any rate, the labelling is
correct ? I do not ask for such subtleties as
learned distinctions between Edraianthus and
Wahlenbergia, or between Androsace, Aretia, or
Douglasia, for the powers that be are not long
together of one mind with regard to these high
matters ; but might we not have, at least, the
last name but one ? I trust that these remarks
may be taken as written in no unfriendly spirit,
for, on the contrary, they are wTitten by one who has
the honour of the Royal Horticultural Society very
closely at heart and owes it much. No. 3986."

An Official Catalogue of Roses. — The official

descriptive list of Roses, 1914 edition, just pubhshed
by the National Rose Society ought to be in the
hands of everyone who loves the Queen of Flowers.
What " Whitaker " is to the business man, this
catalogue is to the Rose-grower, for within its
pages he can find a full and accurate description
of every Rose worth growing, together with any
little peculiarities that it may possess. Then
the lists of Roses for various purposes, such as
exhibition, bedding, pergolas and pillars, are in-
valuable, and quite worth the half-a-crown charged
to non-members of the society for the handbook.
Copies can be obtained from the hon. secretary,
Mr. E. Mawley, Rosebank, Berkhamsted.

NURSERY NOTES.

MESSRS. WILLIAM CUTBUSH AND
SON.

THIS old-established and well-known
firm have for many years been regarded
by gardeners as one of the best in th;
cotmtry, and it used to be, and still
is, said that everything uecessiry foi
the garden can be obtained from
them. For many years associated with the
northern heights of London, to wit Highgate,
not far away from Hampstead Heath, they have
conducted a nursery business that is second to
none in the country, and at the time of our visit
in early October it was evident that it was not
their intention to be left behind in the race for
up-to-date methods that is now taking place on
every hand. For that reason an entirely new-
nursery has been made at Highgate, where the
head-quarters are situated, and this, with the
extensive areas at Finchley and Bamet, comprise
altogether well over two hundred acres. The
Highgate nursery is to form a sort of show-place
for the many kinds of plants raised at the other
nurseries, though in the extensive glass-houses
there a great many plants are raised and grown
on to perfection. The extensive seed and bulb
business is also conducted here under the personal
supervision of Mr. Leonard Cutbush. . Outdoors
we foimd representative collections of Ivies (some
18 feet high). Clematises, Jasmines, Ampelopsis,
variegated Elms and other trees. Wistarias in
pots (both the ordinary sinensis and the newer,
long-racemed multijuga), some fine plants of Crino-
dendron Hookeri, and a fine collection of weeping
standard and other Roses. In addition, there
was a wonderful lot of clipped Boxes and Yews and
Bay trees in tubs, for which the firm have long
been famed and for which they find there is an
increasing demand, this seeming to indicate that
there is a tendency to revert, to some extent at
least, to the formal gardening of bygone days.

In the glass-houses we were particularly inter-
ested in the winter-flowering Begonias that were
just beginning to flower. The value of these plants
in the conservatory during the winter months is
not yet properly appreciated in many private
gardens, though it is difficult to understand how
anyone can afford to be without them. In addition
to those of the Gloire de Lorraine type, a fine
example of which is Lady Waterlow, with large,
ivory white flowers, Messrs. Cutbush had a very-
good stock of the new-er winter-flowering tuberous-
rooted kinds, of which Winter Cheer is perhaps
the best-known example. For a comparatively
small outlay on these flowering plants a conserva-
tory could be transformed into a delightful retreat
of soft colour harmonies that could not fail to
dispel the gloom of winter in the most benighted
districts. Bedding plants of all kinds, including
a fine new Ivy-leaved Geranium named Radiance,
with vivid scarlet flowers ; standard and bush
Heliijtropes, Hydrangeas by the thousand, retarded
lilies, Spirsas, Lily of the Valley, Azalea mollis
and Lilacs, and the variegated Bougainvillea
F. K. Harris, which has beautifully vaiirgaied
foliage but flowers like the ord,:iary kmds, were
a few of the many good things that we noticed.
In addition, there were =everal large houses devoted
to Palms, and we were iiterp^ted to see a splen lid
lot of PhcEnix Roebelinu, which is about the bfc;t
Pahn of aU for growing in an ordinary dwelling-
house. As all the Palms and Aspidistras at
Highgate are grown under as cool conditions a^

592

THE CxARDEN.

[November 22, 1913.

possible, they are very hardy, and therefore more
useful for decorating and house furnishing.

The glass-houses at the Finchley nurseries are
mostly devoted to Perpetual-flowering Carnations,
and on the occasion of our visit many beautiful
varieties were in full flower and the plants in perfect
health. A number of good new varieties have
been raised here, one of the best being Mrs. Lucy
McKinnon, a large-flowered and fragrant scarlet
variety and the most brilliant of its colour that
we have seen. Lady Ingestre, deep salmon pink,
for which Messrs. Cutbush obtained an award
of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society
a year or two ago ; Countess of Bradford, yellow,
with rose markings ; Countess of Onslow, helio-
trope, with rose flakes ; Jessica, white, with
scarlet stripes, very fragrant ; Marchioness of
Tweeddale, deep pink ; William H. Cutbush,
scarlet ; and White City, a good white, are others
that have been raised at Finchley. In addition,
the firm have all the other good standard varieties
and novelties. Perpetual-flowering Malmaison Car-
nations have also come in for attention, and several
good ones have been raised, notably King George,
scarlet ; Lady Miller, flesh pink ; and Viscountess
Goschen, dark rose. These have flowers resembling
in size and form those of the true Malmaisons,
with the perpetual-flowering properties of the
smaller-flowered perpetual or winter-flowering
kinds ; hence they are a particularly useful and
much-appreciated race. Of border Carnations
we noticed some particularly strong young plants,
many of which were ready for despatching to
customers in all parts of Europe. Herbaceous
plants of all kinds, including some very fine
Michaelmas Daisies and Paeonies, and an extensive
stock of all the best alpines find a happy home
at these Finchley nurseries, until repeated orders
have exhausted those available for customers.

At the very extensive Bamet nurseries, where
Mr. William Cutbush keeps a personal eye on them,
Roses, ornamental evergreen and deciduous shrubs
and trees, and fruit trees form the main features,
though there are many what one might term side-
lines of considerable interest. For instance,
Violas are propagated here by the thousand, and
Mr. Cutbush has for some years been personally
working up particularly good strains of Pent-
stemons and Antirrhinums, flowers which he confi-
deatly believes will before long occupy much more
prominent positions in our gardens than they do
at ]^esent. Then there are Sweet Violets galore,
while in the glass-houses we were particularly
pleased to find some thousands of well-grown
Ericas or Heaths for conservatory decoration.
Pot Roses, too, were there in abundance, and for
ten months in a year the firm are prepared to
supply flowering Roses in pots. Outdoors we
were much interested in some particularly fine
Rambler Roses in pots ready for forcing. Many
of these had sturdy rods over twenty feet long,
which augured well for the display of flowers
when the plants have been subjected to the proper
temperature. Of ordinary bush and standard
Roses in the nurseries the firm have some 230,000,
these embracing all the best and most up-to-date
varieties, including some particularly fine Dwarf
Polyanthas. Fruit trees were there in enormous
quantities, trained examples of all kinds calling
for special comment. Lack of space will not
allow us to go into details of these, but we may
say in passing that all were in perfect health and
well ripened, so that they should do well > hen
transferred to their permanent quarters. This
also applies to the ornamental trees and shrubs^

of which, in addition to the ordinary nursery
stock,. Messrs. Cutbush have some extra fine
specimens that would be ideal where an immediate
effect was desired.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

FLOWER GARDEN.

PERENNIAL ASTERS (Arundel).~mcha.filma.A Daisies
may be planted now or at any time while the weather is
open up to the middle of December, or in raid-February to
the end of March, without danger of loss. Climax is
one of the largest-flowered forms. Mrs. Rayner, Ryecroft
Purple and Ryecroft Pink, Moonlight, and Amellus
varieties would all probably suit your purpose.

BORDER CARNATIONS {Southern ScoUand).~-Jn these
high positions of Scotland, especially where the soil is
good, the best layers to obtain are those that have been
specially hardened, that is to say, grown in a highly-
ventilated house. When layered, and after rooting
moved from a cold frame to the open air, they seem to
grow with remarkable vigour after this treatment in any
part of Scotland. One Southern grower who makes
a speciality of this method is Mr. James Douglas, Car-
nation specialist, Great Bookham, Surrey. A list of
those varieties that have proved the best for Scotland
is appended : Mrs. Andrew Brotherstone, mole carmine,
spotted white ; Mrs. Eliot Douglas, yellow self ; Montrose,
white, marked scarlet ; Robert Bruce, apricot ; Renown,
buff ground, suffused scarlet ; Kate Nickleby, white
self ; Annie Laurie, blush pink ; Basuto, crimson ; Rosy
Morn, rose pink ; Bookham White, white self ; E.
SchitTner, orange self ; and The Bride, white, marked
rosy scarlet. .-Vll of these have received flrst-class certifi-
cates from the Royal Horticultural Society, and all have
been tested for some years and found to be the hardiest
of their race.

THE GREENHOUSE.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS: SYSTEM OF POINTING
BLOOMS (B. C). — ^There is no rule as regards pointing
large show blooms at the National Chrysaiitlicnmiii
Society's shows. To the best of our knowledge and
belief, boards of blooms are pointed only when the difference
between certain exhibits cannot be determmed by a
superficial inspection of the blooms. Generally speaking,
four or six points is the maximum obtainable for any
one bloom, and the points couaidered are size, colour,
form and freshness. As regards size, both depth and
breadth are taken into consideration. Blooms having
these points well represented are sure to score.

LARGE SPECIMENS OF VARIEGATED ALOES
(C G. O. B.).^Your variegated Aloes, or Agaves as they
are correctly named, doubtless require repotting. Such
plants often do quite well in the same pots for a period
of from five to ten years. The older the plants are, the
longer they may be left in the same pots, that is, pro-
viding they are fed regularly with manure-water. The
repotting may be attended to in February, using a com-
post of good, turfy loam, broken up into good-sized pieces,
with a fair addition of small pieces of sandstone or old
mortar rubble and sand. A pound or so of half-inch
bones may also be added to the soil. Drain the new
pots or tubs well, and work the new soil firmly about
the old balls. The second growth of which you speak
should be removed if it can be done without injuring the
plant to which it is attached. That and any suckers
may be potted and treated as young plants.

FRUIT GARDEN.

SILVER-LEAF ON PLUM TREE {Arundel) .~T\\^
Victoria Phim is affected with silver-leaf disease. This
disease is due to a fungus (Stereum purpureum), which
gets into the plant by a wound. Trees affected rarely
recover, and we recommend you to remove the tree at
once and replant this autumn with a healthy tree.

SMALL RED EGGS ON FRUIT TREES {T. C. C.).—
The eggs are those of the mite Oribata lapidaria. These
mites, which are little larger than their eggs and of a
slightly darker red, are very common on Apple trees.
They are quite harmless, and are, indeed, likely to be
beneficial, for they eat the spores of lichens and fungi.

BITTER-PIT IN APPLES (./. it.).— The fruit is attacked
by bitter-pit, a fungoid pest that is very troublesome
over most parts of the country. We would suggest
spraying the trees while dormant with half an ounce
of sulphide of potassium dissolved in a gallon of water,
and next year, when the fruit is half-grown, with a quarter
of an uuncn of sulpliide of potassium to a gallon of water.

SUMMER AND AUTUMN FRUITING RASPBERRIES
{Silly Gardener). — It is quite right to say tliat ordinary
summer-fruiting Raspberries, if cut down to the ground
in winter, will bear a crop of fruit in the autumn on the
canes of next year's growth ; but they will not produce
such heavy or satisfactory crops as will the autumn-
bearing Raspberries proper. Where, then, does the advan-
tage come in of pruning them in this way ? If you do
not want summer Raspberries, then plant autumn-bearing
varieties only. There are some grand varieties of these
to be had now.

MOULDY SPOTS ON GRAPES {A. J. R)._The Grapes
are dead ripe and the spots indicate natural decay Thev
also show that the air of the house is too cold and moist
Apply a little heat to the pipes and keep the house per-
f.ctly dry. Give air freely on fine days and a little at
i.mht as well. There will appear no more spots then
and the Grapes will keep in good condition for another
month or six weeks. "wi'wci

TO STORE WALNUTS FOR WINTER USE (Twwed-
.?ide).— We have tried many ways, and found the foUowing
to be the best : Put down a layer of slightly-moistened
sand half an inch deep on the bottom of a box packing-
case, or anything of the sort available, place on this a
layer of Walnuts and then a layer of sand and so on
until the box is full. We have found the Walnuts to remain
in a good condition longer when the boxes are kept iii
a fairly dry room and not too cold.

PEACH FOLIAGE GOING WRONG (J. D., Devon) —
The Peach foliage is damaged by the black thrips. Fumi-
gate the house on two occasions, with an interval of about
three days between, with one of the nicotine fumigants
taking care that the work is done after dark. The fumi-
gation may spot the Grapes unless their skin is quite hard
and the fumes may prove harmful to persons eating the
Grapes if they are used soon after. It would, therefore
be well to remove them before the fumigation is done'
The Cherry is attacked by the boring moth larva, called
Semasia woeberiana. This is a dilficult pest to deal with
but you will find that smearing the trees in May with a
mixture of clay and lime will tend to prevent the moths
laying their eggs.

MISCELLANEOUS.

CELERY DISEASED {E. C.).— The Celery is attacked
by the leaf-spot fuugus, Septoria Petroselini Apii. It
is too late to effect a cure. The disease is carried in the
seed, and is to be found on the plants from May onwards,
when spraying with Bordeaux mixture should begin.

WIREWORMS (IF. B.).— No measure is so effective
as constant cultivation in ridding the soil of wireworms.
Your experience with the soil fumigant is similar to that
of many others, and if you cannot for any reason hoe
frequently and dig often, we recommend you to trap the
pests by burying pieces of Potato or Carrot near their
haunts, marking the position of the pieces and examining
them frequently.

CARNATION SPOT FUNGUS (Anxious).— TYiQ Car-
nut ions iiie attacked by the Carnation spot fungus,
lleterusporium echinulatum. This fungus is always
more prevalent when the air is damp, and wc recommend
you to plant the Carnations in a place where the air has
free circulation, and to spray them, after removing the
damaged leaves, with a solution of potassium sulphide,
loz. to tliree gallons of water.

TREATMENT FOR OLD LAWNS {H. K.).~Yow. may
apply a dressing of well-decayed stable manure to your
lawn at once, with good results, and in spring a dressing
of bone-meal would do good. The manure should be
worked about well in order that the grass may grow
through it easily, and the bone-meal should be applied
during damp weather. Soot and wood-ashes are also
useful, but the latter encourages the growth of Clover.

CATERPILLARS TO NAME {CoUingham).—Th^ grub
sent is the larva of the garden swift moth. The grubs feed
on fleshy roots of all kinds, and are very partial to bulbs
and Preonies. Birds eat them greedily when they are
turned out from the soil, otherwise they are difficult to
deal with. Carbon bisulphide may be injected into the
soil, poured into holes near the hiding-places, half an ounce
in each hole, made by a stick to a deptli of about nine
inches. The moths flit over the beds at dusk in June,
and may be captured by means of a butterfly net.

GRUBS IN GARDEN SOIL {E. E. £.).— The grub
sent is the larva of the cockchafer. We recommend you
to turn the ground up well and expose the grubs, which
will be eagerly devoured by the larger birds. Rooks and
gulls are very fond of them, and starlings \vill eat them.
The ground in which plants are growing may be treated
by injecting half an ounce of carbon bisulphide to the
square yard. The fumes of this substance are deadly
to animal-life (it is an excellent thing to use in killing
wasps before digging out the nests), and does not injure
the roots of plants.

VASES AND BOWLS FOR TABLE DECORATION
{M. C. B.). — There is no golden rule as to the kind of
vase or bowl that should be used In a table decoration,
and we are not aware of there being anything new iu
receptacles of late. A bowl of glass or silverware of
medium size should answer well for the centre of the table,
and four small vases — one at each corner of the table —
will be quite sufficient for a table of the dimensions you
give. A tall glass bowl would be too big for a small table.
Epergnes have gone out of fashion with those who have
a true artistic temperament. Chrysanthemums of yellow
and rich orange, with just a light dusting of bright crimson,
are always most effective by day and night. Use iu
association autumnal and light green greenhouse foliage.
Avoid crowding, and let each flower speak for itself.

NAMES OF FRUIT.— G. IF.— Christmas Pearmain.

Q. C— 1 and 2, Alfriston ; 3, Waltham Abbey Seedling;
4. Wellington ; 5. New Hawthoruden ; 6, Hoary Morning.
M. W. M. B. — 1, Queen Caroline; 2, Warner's King.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— 7. E. L.— Aster diffusus horizon-

talis and Polygonum \accinifolium. D. K. S. — 1, Cornus

sanguinea variegata ; 2, Cassine fulvida ; 3, Olearia macro-
donta ; 4, Cotoneaster frigida ; 5, Arbutus Unedo ; 6
Garrya elliptica

GARDEN.

-^=^^

/p.

No. 2193.— Vol. LXXVII.

November 29, 1913.

CONTENTS.

593

594

595

595

595

Notes of the Week
Correspondence

Autumn-f r ui ti n g
Raspberries

The mild autumn in
Ro^S'-^hire . .

Cyplamen ibericum

Heliotrope Mme. de
Blouay

Chrysanthemum Ele
{lauce

A little-known Rx:)se

Hybrids from Primula
obconica . . . . 595

Hints about Cam-
panula piitula . . 595

Forthcoming events . . 595

Fruit Garden

The best Cherries
and their cultiva-
tion 595

Flower Garden
The naming of Tulip
breaks 595

Rock and Water Garden
The designing, con-
struction and
planting of rock
gardens . . . . 596

597

598

000

600

Rose Garden
In a Hampsliire gar-
den

Gardens op To-Day
Hallingbury Place,
Bishop's Stortford
Gas boilers for green-
house healing
New and Rare

Plants

Gardening for Beginners
Flowering shrubs for
small gardens . . 601
Gajidening of the AVeek
For Southern gar-
dens 602

For Northern gar-
dens 602

THE Silter-Leaf Disease
of Pruit Trees :
Its cause and pre-
vention ., .. 603
Answers to Corre-
spondents
Flower garden . . 603
Greenhouse . . . . 604
Fruit garden . . . . 604
Miscellaneous . . 604
Societies 604

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Dasylirion gracilis flowering outdoors 594

The designing, construction and planting of rock

garden? .. 596

Rose Mrs. E. J. Holland 597

Part of the sunk garden at Hallingbury Placit . . . . 598

Peigola in the Rose garden 598

May-floweriiig Tulips in Mrs. Lockett Agnew's gardens 599

The brilliantly-coloured Columuca oerstediana . . 600

Viburnum Tinus or Laurustinus 601

BDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he vfill not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actua photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright uill be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

The Cape Gooseberry in Scotland.— Fruits

of the Cape Gooseberry, Physalis edulis, have been
offered in the Edinburgh Market and have met
with a ready sale.

Draining Gardens. — Very fortunate is anyone
who has a garden well drained, and at the same
time possesses sufficient depth of soil to suit his
crops. Any drains that require renewing or repair-
ing should be commenced now, as it gives the
disturbed soil time to settle again before the spring ;
3 feet 6 inches deep should be a minimum, as
gardens, particularly those for vegetables, are
cultivated tc a good depth.

The Use of Fallen Leaves. — It is very important
that as many leaves as possible should be collected,
particularly those of Oak and Beech, taking care
to pick out sticks, stones and weeds. Stack them
in low heaps where only moderate fermentation
win take place. These leaves are excellent
material for making hot-beds, and also for potting
purposes next season, as leaf-mould is an important
ingredient in most potting composts for the en-
couragement of root action, besides possessing
considerable nutritive value.

The Value of Sweet Briars.— The Sweet Briar is
receiving much more attention than it did at one
time, owing, no doubt, to the many beautiful forms of
Lord Penzance's hybrids from which to select. For
hedges, particularly where space permits them to
more or less ramble at leisure, they have a very
attractive and natural appearance, and might well
replace some of the old, rough hedges that often
exist near gardens. Apart from their beautiful
flowers and fragrant scent, their bright heps, which
are generally borne in great profusion, are a source
of beauty the whole winter through, particiJarly
in such places as the wild garden.

Lily of the Valley. — This is the month when
permanent beds should be thoroughly cleaned
over and a light dressing of leaf-soil and manure
given, just sufficient to cover the surface of the soil.
Old climips may with advantage be lifted and
replanted, and, if necessary, a good many of the
best crowns be selected for forcing. The ground,
where fresh beds are to be made, should be
deeply dug and richly manured, and if it is in partial
shade, so much the better. Plant the crowns
just under the surface in rows 4 inches to 6 inches
apart, making the beds about fom: feet wide.
In this way the flowers are easy to gather.

A Rare Indian Lily. — Having been apparently
lost to cultivation for some few years, it is interesting
to record the flowering of Lilium wallichianum
in the greenhouse at Kew. It has a fairly long
fimnel-shaped flower, white inside, with dark
purple markings on the exterior. In a wild state
Wallich's Lily is said to be vigorous in growth,
but in this country plants 2 feet to 3 feet high,
bearing one flower, are the rule rather than the
exception. Though fotmd at fairly high elevations

ui the Himalayas, except in a few favoured spots in
the South and West this Lily is only suitable for
cultivation mider glass, either in pots or planted
out in a border with L. sulphureum.

The Christmas Daisy. — This beautiful plant,
Aster grandiflorus, is practically the last of the
family, and, unfortimately, it only comes to per-
fection outside during mild autumns. It is one
of the best, and is well worth growing. Coming
as it does after all the others are over renders it all
the more valuable, as may be reaUsed this year
in those places where it has been able to bloom
in all its loveliness. It makes a very useful pot
plant ; in fact, it is the most reliable way of
obtaining its blooms. The blue flowers look very
effective when mixed with Chrysanthemimis.

Nerine flexuosa alba. — All the Nerines are
useful subjects for the cool greenhouse, but none
of them is more attractive than the white Zigzag
Nerine (Nerine flexuosa alba), with its snowy white
flowers, the petals of which are elegantly imdulated
and recurved. A batch of this choice, free-
flowering plant intermixed with other Nerines,
particularly the large rosy pink N. Bowdenii
or similar plants, will add greatly to the beauty
of the greenhouse. Like all others of the genus,
it must be well ripened in the summer by placing
the plants in a dry place in full sim and with-
holding water from the time the leaves die till
the flower-scapes appear, when they may be
repotted or top-dressed.

The South African Kaffir Lily. — Though perhaps
more frequently grown in pots for the decora-
tion of the cool greenhouse, the Kaffir Lily
(Schizostylis coccinea) grows and flowers more
freely on a warm border outside. A sunny south
border at the foot of a wall or greenhouse, such a
place as one chooses for the Belladonna Lily,
just suits it. If not well dramed, 15 inches of
the soil should be taken out, and some broken
bricks or clinkers put in for drainage. In a soil
consisting of fibrous loam, leaf-mould and coarse
sand, the bulbs grow and flower freely. Flowering
in October and November, it is particularly
valuable, more especially from the fact that when
cut the blooms last well in water.

Erica gracilis for the Greenhouse.— This
pretty South African Heath is one of the few
species which remain to remind us of a class ot
greenhouse plants which were in our grandfathers'
days considered to be among the. .most decorative
of indoor plants, and the supreme test of a gardener's
skill to produce them in good condition. It is
usually grown in large quantities in a few market
establishments, and from those places the general
trade is supplied. The plants as we usually see
them are grown in 5-inch pots, and they form
charming little bushes 9 inches to 15 inches high,
made up of eight or nuie main and nimierous side
branches, which, from early autumn until Christmas
or later, are covered with small, bell-shaped, pink
or white blossoms, according to the variety.

694

THE GARDEN.

[November 29, 1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Autumn-Fruiting Raspberries.— These are still
bearing fruit here. We have had a grand crop
throughout the past three months, the fruits
being remarkably large and of good flavour. The
canes are cut down in the early spring to within .a
few inches of the ground, fruit being borne on the
current year's growth. — Eleanor G. Shellev,
Avington Park, Alresford, Hants.

The Mild Autumn in Ross-shire.— From the
beginning of July we have been favoured with one
of the best seasons known here for years. Bed-
ding plants did wonderfully well, and it may
interest readers to know that Begonias were in
full bloom up till October 28, some even flowering
on November 8. Dahlias, too, have given us their
full share, and early Chrysanthemums are still
to be obtained out of doors. — .\lexander Ross,
Courthill, Lochc.arron.

Cyclamen ibericum.— This plant has been grown
here for a good number of years, and last year was
the arst time that we recorded it as being in flower
before Christmas, stray flowers appearing here
and there before that date. This year its precocity
is even more striking, quite a number of the plants
being in full and luxuriant bloom at this date
(November 19), while C. neapolitanum has still
a flower or two left. I should think it is unusual
tor the flowering periods of the two species named
thus to overlap. — F. H. C, Rye.

Hardiness of Dracaena australis. — The notes
by " T. C. F. M.," page 570 of The Garden for
November 15, on the above plant are interesting.
Here it is quite hardy, and receives no protection
in winter whatever. Aralia Sieboldii, Hydrangea
Hortensis, Camellias of sorts, Fuchsias and Azalea
indica also stand the winter unprotected. The
last named make fine plants and are studded with
bloom. At Penrhyn Gardens Lapagerias and
Oleanders are growing outside on walls, and
stand the winters well. — J. S. Higgins, Glynllivon
Gardens. Carnarvon.

Dasylirion Flowering Outdoors. — I am sending
you a photograph of Dasylirion gracilis growing
in the gardens of The Cottage, Porlock Weir,
a residence of Mr. G. W. W. Blathwayt. It wa?
planted in November, igo6, and last summer
threw up a very fine flower-spike 12 feet high.
The bushes at the back are fine examples of the
small-leaved Myrtle. It may interest your readers
to know that in this favoiured spot, on the coast
adjoining North Devon, this greenhouse ever-
green is thriving so well out of doors, as also
are a great many choice and tender flowering
shrubs and plants. — R. H. Legg, Melksham House
Gardens, Wilts.

Primula Poissoni Flowering Late. — I can
fully corroborate every word that Mr. Blake of
Clandon Park says on page 570 of November 15
issue concerning the merits of Primula Poissoni.
It is still in full flower with me, and, though of a
colour which not even an enthusiast could avoid
associating with magenta, does not suffer in conse-
quence thereof by reason of its late-flowering
propensity, which enables it to escape the risk
of clashing with other subjects. May I further
suggest, in reference to an enquiry as to a suitable
plant for massing under trees, that Saxifraga
umbrosa, or London Pride, is infinitely preferable
to Ground Ivy, which was put forward in answer
to the query. There are few things to excel the

delicate pink, foamy masses of the blossoms of
the Saxifrage when planted in large groups or as
a continuous edging. — Raymond E. Negus, The
Lawn, Walton-on-Thames.
The Persian Cyclamen as a Biennial. — I am

obliged by the courteous letters of Mr. Brotherston
and Mr. Willie {see page 558) relating to a previous
article of mine on this subject. Like Mr. Brother-
ston, I am aware that very good results are to be
had with old bulbs by some growers, and many
and varied are the methods of culture advocated
by successful cultivators. While I am quite willing
t 1 admit that my treatment of these two year old
bulbs may in some respects be incorrect, I could
easily retort that Mr. Brotherston's treatment
of the plants the first year cannot be altogether
right when the older bulbs give the finer flowers.
The fact is, no one seems to be able to exactly

DASYLIRION GRACILIS FLOWERING IN THE
OPEN AT THE COTTAGE, PORTLOCK WEIR.

State what the correct treatment should be to
ensure first-rate results. Some mouths ago a
correspondent of The Garden advanced what
was to me the most original idea on the subject,
so that I determined to give it a trial. Briefly,
his advice was to shake the bulbs quite free of
soil immediately they had finished flowering,
and at the same time to pull off the entire foliage
and repot, using as small pots as it was possible to
get the roots into. I was so struck with the ide 1
that I experimented with a dozen good bulbs,
and with very fair results. With a few other
plants I somewhat modified the treatment, merely
pulling off the foliage and then top-dressing with
fresh, rich soil. The results here are particularly
promising, the foliage beuig very large and healthy,
while the crowiis are fairly bristling with flower-
buds. Talking of old Cyclamen bulbs, I may
say that the late James Walker, gardener at

Rivals Green, Linlithgow, grew the largest and
most profusely-bloomed plants I have ever seen.
In many cases they were at least 2J feet across,
and carried quite 200 flowers. The blooms were
small, but very finely coloured. These bulbs were
at least ten years old. Mr. Walker, a very able,
all-round gardener, could make nothmg of seed-
lings, and yet he never failed with the old plants.
Who can explain this ? How do Mr. Willie and
Mr. Brotherston measure a Cyclamen flower ?
To me a flower 6 inches across seems enormous,
and, incidentally, undesirable, unless they measure
by stretching the bloom flat. I do not admire
the " spidery " type. — C. Blair, Preston House,
Linlithgow.

Gentiana verna. — We are all, I thuik, indebted
to Mr. R. A. Malby for his interesting experiments
with Gentiana verna (page 548, issue November i),
and his record of the results obtained by plants
under and without a glass covering will be helpful
to many who are struggling with this charming
Gentian, but who have hitherto failed. This
question of winter covering is a most important
one, and it is only by such experiments as those
of Mr. Malby, when conducted over a series of years,
that several pomts regarding the cultivation of
certam flowers can be elucidated. I hope Mr.
Malby is continuing the treatment of G. verna
adopted last season, and I would suggest that this
winter he should cover the plant left uncovered
last winter, and leave the other without the glass
for this season. The longer ones grows alpines,
the less inclined is one to generalise and dogmatise.
Campanula puUa (of which I shall have more to
say at another time) is a case in point. To return
to Gentiana verna, Mr. Malby is to be congratulated
on his success, and it would help us to understand
it better if he could give us the size of the plants
when planted and that they have now attained.
His success is very great, and many will almost
envy him the charming display his plants must have
presented last spring. I do not think, however,
the main trouble with G. verna is its shy flowering,
but its difficulty of cultivation, as in many gardens
it is diflScult to establish, and requires some attention
to mduce it to grow. We are, I think, often too
generous in our treatment of this plant. It does
not always do well in a rich soil, and I find that one
of a somewhat stony character suits it best,
especially when it is thinly " mulched" with small
stones or gravel. This mulching has been found
I if great benefit in gardens where G. verna could
not be grown when attempted without it. The
glass covering is, it is probable, highly beneficial
to the flowering of this lovely plant, and if Mr.
Malby will only continue his experiments, I am
confident that he will deserve well of other alpinists.
We know that certain other plants, such as the
Soldanellas, for example, flower best if they have
been covered with glass during winter. We know,
however, that a foot or 2 feet of position may cause
one plant to bloom better than another, and I
have two little clumps of G. verna about three feet
from each other which behave quite differently,
although there is nothing about the respective plants
or their positions to suggest why this is. I shall
at once endeavour to test Mr. Malby's suggestions
by covering with glass the shyer-flowering of the
two plants. Should it bloom more freely, I shall
be ever grateful to your correspondent for his note.
I may add that both plants are from the same
parent — a free-flowering specimen in a garden where
it had done well for years. Other plants in the
garden .might be tested, but these two will afford a
better means of comparison. — S. Arnott, Dumfries.

November 29, 1913-]

THE GARDEN.

595

Heliotrope Mme. de Blouay.— Although this

Heliotrope cannot vie with such a variety as Lord
Roberts in respect of brightness, being e\on rather
paler then the common Heliotrope, Heliotropium
peruvianum, it has much to recommend it for
massing. It is the dwarfest variety I have seen,
and the trusses, which are borne in great profusion,
are quite three times the size of the common
Heliotrope, and it possesses in full measure the
delightful aroma of the Cherry Pie.

Chrysanthemum Elegance.— I have not seen

this variety in any price-list, so I do not know how
the vendor classes it, but it is an October crimson
single, although not of the Mary Anderson type,
I saw a batch of it in October, and was much struck
with its fioriferous character and its rich crimson
colour ; it is of medium height. I think, with an
autumn even approximating to the one just closing,
it might do quite well out ot doors, even in Scotland.
— Caledonia

A Little-Known Rose.— I have never seen in
any of your lists of Roses one called Donarte de
Elvira. I chose it by chance out of a list years
ago, and everyone who sees it wants it. It is a
salmony pink, growing in long sprays, with lovely
foliage, and is constantly blooming. I am picking
it every day now. I have grown it over " banis-
ters," made of twisted twigs, up each side of some
stone steps leading to the garden, and, of course,
now one sees no foundation — nothing but Roses.
It is a Rose that, if better kjiomi, would be growii by
everyone. — Marion Dlnell, East Marling, Norjolk.

Hybrids from Primula obconica. — Regarding
the remarks in The Garden for November 8,
page 564, in connection with P. obconica, there
is not, so tar as I am aware, any hybrid in which
that species figures as one parent. I have tried to
cross it with P. cockbumiana, P. pulverulenta,
P. cortusoides, P. capitata, P. Forbesii, P. frondosa,
P. marginata, P. rosea, P. vulgaris, P. Veitchii
and P. megasesefolia. I have raised seedlings from
the latter which was fertilised with P. obconica,
but no sign of hybridity could be detected. These
were " selfed," and the result was still P. megasese-
folia. I once heard that a plant had been raised
from these two species which was fairly intermediate
between the parents, but I did not see the plant
and cannot vouch for its accuracy. Perhaps other
readers may have been more successful. — T. W.
Briscoe.

Hints about Campanula patula.— May I take
exception to Mr. Amott's note on Campanula
patula in your issue of November 8, page 562 ?
This Campanula is never coarse, but extremely
elegant and graceful. It is beyond all question
a biennial. Division as a method of increasing
(as ordinarily understood) is quite impossible.
It seeds itself freely in damp, shady situations.
Its only fault (besides that of being biennial) is
that its long, wiry stalks are not always strong
enough to support the flowers ; but this occurs
because we move it from its natural habitat of
the undergrowth and bushes, where it can be seen
in some of our Herefordshire woods in wild pro-
fusion. Did I not know the plant well in its wild
and cultivated state, I would not dare to take
exception to such an authority as Mr. Amott. —
Ernest Ballard, Colwall.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
December 2. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Exhibition. Perpetual - flowering Carnation
Society's Exhibition at Vincent Square, West-
minster (two days). Scottish Horticultural
Association's Meeting.

THE BEST CHERRIES AND THEIR
CULTIVATION.

FROM the days when Henry VIII. scoured
the Continent for new fruits and the re-
sulting finds were planted at Teynham,
Kent has been famed for its Cherries.
But even in this county their culture is
localised to a large extent, and the reason
for this will be found to be — chalk. Where there is
an abundance of this mineral, there arc Cherries
flourishing. On the granite soils, such as are foimd,
for example, in the West of England, it steadfastly
refuses to grow. The lesson is obvious. This
fruit is somewhat impatient of the knife, and
therefore restricted forms such as espaliers are
not advisable. Even the more natural fan-trained
forms on walls should not be too strictly dealt
with in regard to priming. The best wall fruits I
have seen were grown on trees the tortuous
branches of which would shock those whose eye
for symmetry is well developed, but at the same
time please those who consider that the first duty
of a fruit tree is to fruit. The pyramid form is
suitable, if not pruned too hard, and especially
for varieties of the Duke race, whose neat, upright
habit takes them halfway to this form. Cordons
also do well on walls if not too much encoiuraged
with nitrogenous manure, and this advice, indeed,
applies to all forms. In the early stages of growth
stable manure should be strictly avoided, and
potash and phosphatic manure should only be
given, with, of course, lime, if this is not present
in the soil, in fair quantity. The culture of this fruit
under glass is not undertaken so often as it should
hi. To defeat spring frosts and, incidentally,
the feathered tribes, this method is very desirable,
and for those who have not eaten " under glass "
fruit a revelation awaits them. As the rooking
Plum is to the Green Gage, so are outdoor Cherries
to the indoor ones.

The soft-fleshed Bigarreaus, so unfit for the
untender mercies of Covent Garden, only require
to be better known to those whose idea of a Cherry
is the indigestible, if profitable. Napoleon ; and
the black varieties, such as the Tartarian or
Circassian, are found in the highest perfection
under orchard-house culture. The varieties that
can be recommended for quality are, in the yellow,
Bigarreaus, Frogmore, Elton and Governor Wood ;
in black varieties of this race, the Tartarian above-
mentioned. Early Rivers and Waterloo ; and the
old St. Margaret's or Tradescant's Black Heart,
a name which takes us back to the Duke race,
whose refreshing acid flavour is acceptable to many
palates, and are best represented by May Duke,
Royal Duke and Archduke.

The Morello Cherry needs no recommendation.
Its preference for a cool wall and its never- failing
cropping qualities have won it a place in all gar-
dener's hearts. Of similar flavour is the Kentish
Red, a very distinct variety, which for cooking is
quite unequalled. Cherry jam made of this variety
will be the first sort to disappear from the pantry.
Use half a pound of sugar to ilb. of fruit, and vou
have a preserve fit for the proverbial king. To
sum up, the secret of Cherry-growing is to forget
the knife and the manure-barrow, and remember
the lime. It seems a pity that these fruits are not
more extensively grown in manv gardens where
the soil and situation are well adapted for them.
If the hints given above are acted upon, the trees
ought not to give much trouble. E. A. Bunvard.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

THE NAMING OF TULIP BREAKS.

THIS is doubtless a most important
question which needs definite settle-
ment, and the Tulip trials organised
for the next flowering season will
afford a splendid opportunity for it.
The Editor and Mr. Jacob are kind
enough to honour me by asking my opinion,
but I am sorry to say I do not think I have
yet found the philosopher's stone. I trust Mr.
Leak and Mr. Hugh Dickson have been more
fortunate.

Let me first state that the system of naming
a broken Tulip with the same name as the breeder
cannot be maintained, either for the Rembrandts
originated from the Darwhis or for any other class
of flowers. It would lead to hopeless confusion,
because the addition " feathered " or " varie-
gated " or " broken " would not be generally
used for the broken form. Several examples of
trade varieties of early and Cottage Tulips prove
the necessity of changuig such names, e.g., a yellow
and buff colour break from Cottage Maid was
originally called Cottage Maid broken, but when
it became more generally known and appreciated
it was called Cottage Boy ; the white colour break
of Joost van Vondel, formerly known as Joost
\-an Vondel white, has since been dedicated to
Lady Boreel ; the feathered form of La Merveille
has got the name of L'Hermite.

The second point to consider is that, if a breeder
breaks, it does not always do so in absolutely the
same style. It is quite possible that Mr. Fam-
combe Sanders breaks into a boldly-flamed form
in A's garden, into a feathered form with B, and
into perhaps still a third style in C's nursery,
or even in more than one form in the same garden.
In such cases .\, B and C are certainly each entitled
to give distinct names to their breaks. The
difliculty only arises if such breaks are absolutely
the same, and in such cases only a nomenclature
committee would be able to settle things satis-
factorily.

If the break is of reil merit, it will soon be
shown before the Tulip committee, and become
known under a well-established name. If
others are fortunate enough to have got the
same break, they will be glad to adopt this name.
Breaks of inferior quality which originate in more
places at the same time will not be propagated
or will soon have to disappear. Even if they had
got several names, the confusion would not be very
serious.

I do not see a way to express the origin of the
broken Tulip in its name. Some names may
afford a chance of suggesting the relation between
breeder and break, such as Cottage Maid and
Cottage Boy among existing varieties, and Emperor
and Empress, Castor and Pollux, Hera and Leander,
&c., may do for coming varieties. But there is
a limit to such names, and most of the breeders,
and especially the Darwins, have already names
which are not fit to choose appropriate names
in this style for the breaks. In most cases
the breaks will, therefore, have names entirely
independent from the breeders. This is a
drawback, but the only way to avoid con-
fusion. No name must be used for more than
one variety, and the confusion will only be
definitely settled when the same name is not
foimd among early Tulips and Darwins, or any
other section. Ernst H. Krelace.

596

THE GARDEN.

[November 29, 1913.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

THE DESIGNING, CONSTRUCTION
AND PLANTING OF ROCK GARDENS.

^Continued from page 584.)
A S I shall deal later with the arrangement
/% of stone and planting, it is superfluous

/ % to go further into the development of
^"^^ the site here. I will, therefore, consider
^ ^ another site, quite distinct in many

features, and one that is very common.
Sketch plan D shows a piece of waste land that has,
in the development of other portions of the garden,
been left over, more or less as a remnant. The
land here is perfectly flat. As a termination to the
series of gardens and lawns, a belt of shrubs
has been planted, principally with a view to giving
rather more seclusion to the gardens than is afforded
by the woodland on the west. It was really a
corner of a field used as a paddock, and as such
was fenced in on both siUes. One or two fine old
Scots Pines suggested rock {Scots Pines always
do, I think), and it was decided to turn it into a
sort of rock garden. Further than this the ground
offered no assistance towards design. No water
could be introduced conveniently, and the sur-
roundings were such that it would hardly have
looked happy even had it been used. No one need
be reminded of the picturesque association of Pines
and rock. Some of our best artists, notably Leader
and MacWhirter, have familiarised us with the
scenes depicted by Scott in the following words :

Cast anchor in the rifted rock
And higher yet the Pine-tree hunc —
His shattered trunk, and frequent flung
Where seemed the clitfs to meet on high
His boughs athwart the narrow'd sky.

As in the previous instance I have given, here

also the first thing to ask ourselves is : " What

arrangement does the site suggest ? What are

the links that will connect the scheme with the

other portions of the garden without allowing

the one feature to spoil the other by inharmonious

SKETCH E.-

-SCOTS PINES, ROCK AND HEATHER, SHOWING THE TREATMENT OF
A PORTION OF PLAN D.

association, and, again, for what class of planting
shall we arrange ? "

With reference to the arrangement or design,
we have two controlling factors, viz., there are no
natural banks or slopes to help us, and there are
three points (the three groups of Pines), and the
surrounding margins of the site are fixed by the
position of trees. My idea for this is to treat
it rather as a bit of Heather moorland than as an
alpine garden. Glacial deposits of stone in the
forgotten ages will account for a considerable
amount of a sort of " boulder " outcrop — scoriated
and broken masses that rise here and there without
anything of order or method in their positions.
I have seen such in the open fields in parts of
Oxfordshire ; on the Purbeck Hills in the neigh-

. r<^i,j,--t<i,t>^ vo^ f^ ^cfii^t-■,y .

PLAN D.

SHOWING TREATMENT OF A PIECE OF WASTE LAND THAT CONTAINED SCOTS PINES

AND JUTTING ROCKS

bourhood of Swanage, and elsewhere. A slight
undulating effect can be produced by creating
depressions and mounds, not too pronounced,
but all with some continuity of arrangement, so
that shallow " valley " effects are produced.

The pathways should be the most emphasised
of these valleys, givmg the impression of being
footpaths worn by the tread of ages, and should
be so arranged that they create decided depressions
in the neighbourhood of the Pines, as illustrated
in sketch E. At the north and south ends any
surplus earth may be deposited and planted with
shrubs, so as to give a sense of enclosure, although
sufficient openings should be left so that the view
travels on naturally to any attractive features
in the surrounding country. Semi-seclusion with-
out any feeUng of contraction should
-^, ■, be the aim.

By comparing the two drawings D
and E, a very fair idea of the scheme
can be obtained. It will be seen that
facile connection is made through the
shrubs by introducing the pathways to
and from the rock garden at the
points where the access is easiest and
nearest. In plan D, either in the
original drawing or in reproduction,
the path has become much too obtru-
sive ; this must not occur on the land
Always remember that pathways
should be subservient to, and not
dominate, the general scheme. In
connecting up the paths, due regard
should be paid to the fact that it is
unpleasant to be brought up short
by a sudden twist or bend (a point
not too carefully studied by many
English landscape gardeners). The
transition from one path to another
should be easy. In France they
have a useful expression that in-
stantly conveys my meaning If a
proper connection of paths is made,
they say it " goes." If the turn
from one to another is abrupt or
tortuous, it does not '* go."
Colchester. George Dillistonb.
(To be continued.)

November 29, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

597

THE ROSE GARDEN.

IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.

Some of the Newer Roses.

{Continued from page 586.)

TEAS FOR EXHIBITION.

ONE would like, before referring in
i detail to exhibition Teas, to put
I in a plea for their more e.\tended
' cultivation. They are, taken as
a class, undoubtedly the freest
flowering, extending over a longer
period than any other section of the Rose. To-day
(November 16) I cut over a hundred Roses for
the house. A very large proportion of them
were Teas. In no other class are the colours so
exquisite and refined. They are admittedly a
little tenderer and more susceptible to frosts than
their cousins the Hybrid Teas
and the Hybrid Perpetuals, but I
believe they could be grown with
ease in any garden south of the
Thames ; yet in how many gardens
are they almost entirely neglected.
Some of the finest garden and
bedding Roses we have are Teas,
notably, Mme. Antoine Mari. A
bed of this variety here has never
been without flowers since May,
and is now quite full of flower
and bud, good in all its forms, in
the half-open bud stage an ideal
button-hole, growth and contrast
rif foliage with flower are excellent.
Lady Hillingdon is tlie best yellow
Rose for the same purpose ; Mrs,
Herbert Stevens, the best white.
It is only when we come to pinks
and reds that the Teas fail us.
perhaps ; but I am wandering
away from Teas for exhibition
purposes, to which I must return.
Exhibition Teas are not many in
number, but they make up in
quahty what they lack in quan-
tity, and newer exhibition Teas
are scarcer still. The last half-
dozen years have not produced a
doren varieties, so my tale will
soon be told. In alphabetical order
one starts with a real good one in
Alexander Hill Gray (Messrs.

.\lex. Dickson and Sons, 1911).
— Named after the veteran Tea
Rose grower and exhibitor. I
consider this the finest yellow Tea
in commerce at the present time.
It was awarded the gold medal of the National Rose
Society as far back as 1908 at the autumn show,
when the raisers had but a small stock of it, and
we had to wait until 1911 before it was put on
the market, so that it has only had two seasons
in which to become known and grown. Despite
this fact, it was more frequently exhibited at the
National Rose Society's Show this year at the Royal
Botanic Gardens than such old favourites as The
Bride, Catherine Mermet, Souv. d'Elise Vardon,
Cleopatra, Mme. Hoste and Mme. Cusin, to name
half-a-dozen of the old stand-bys. Its colour may
be described as deep lemon yellow, which intensifies
as the flower ages ; of good size and beautiful
formation, with a high, pointed centre. It is
almost at its best in the autumn, is fragrant, and
was placed fourth in order of merit in Mr. Mawley's

.Analysis of the new Teas. I venture to think it
will quickly displace one, if not two, of those now
in front of it ; in fact, the trade growers did so
place it, and they would know more about its
qualities.

Miss Alice de Rothschild (Messrs. .Mex. Dickson
and Sons, 1910). — .\ very beautiful Rose, but not
often large enough to find its way into an exhibition
box. .\ good colour, very strong perfume, which is
distinctly Marechal Niel like, very free and con-
tinuous flowerer, and a good grower. Not subject
to mildew.

Molly Shannan Crawford (Messrs. Alex. Dickson
and Sons, 1908). — The finest exhibition white
Tea (both Mrs. Foley Hobbs and White Maman
Cochet are tinted) that we have, and also a most
excellent bedding Rose, sharing the honours
in this latter respect only with Mrs. Herbert Stevens.
Delicate eau de nil white, which in the fully-expanded

ROSE MRS. E. J. HOLLAND, A HYBRID.TEA WITH DEEP PINK FLOWERS
SUITABLE FOR GARDEN AND EXHIBITION PURPOSES.

flower becomes pure white. The flowers are of
large size, well formed and held erect ; sweetly
scented. A very marked feature is the length
of time a bloom will last on the plant, and also
when cut. I have always had a great regard for
this Rose since the first time I saw it in 1904 at
Newtownards, and was very disappointed when
it failed to obtain the gold medal. Its subsequent
career has proved that it fully deserved it. I should
put it in the first half-dozen exhibition Teas. It
was more frequently exhibited, I see, than Maman
Cochet at the " National " this year.

Mrs. Foley Hobbs (Messrs. Alex. Dickson and
Sons, 1910). — If Molly Sharman Crawford can
count on being in the first half-dozen, I am inclined
to place this Rose at the head of the list as the most
reliable (seldom does the split appear until the

flower is too old to exhibit) Tea for exhibition
purposes in commerce. It, too, had more than
one try before it secured the gold medal. I think
it was staged three times. It secured the silver-
gilt medal at the National Rose Society's
Royal Botanic Gardens Show in 1910, was
exhibited at the Salisbury Show in the same year,
but the award was not increased, and secured the
gold medal at the autumn show, mainly with the
help of some smaller flowers, separately staged,
that were cut from that year's grafts grown under
glass. The colour is delicate ivory white, with a
faintly picoteed edge to the petals, of a clear,
bright pink, and a young flower is a very beautiful
Rose in consequence. A good grower, fine consti-
tution, producing many fine flowers on a single
plant at the same time ; sweetly scented. What
more can one say ? What one can do is another
matter. I suggest to those who have not got it.
Order it at once from the raisers.
Mrs. Herbert Hawksworth
(Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons,
1912). — Too new to have yet been
seen much on the show- bench ex-
cept in the exhibits of the raisers.
There it has been frequently shown
in fine form throughout the season.
I remember an exceptionally beau-
tiful bloom of it at the Gloucester
Show. Its massive, yet smooth,
shell-like petals form a large,
globular-shaped flower of great
depth. It is almost a pure white
that I am sure has a great future
in front of it. It is the only Tea
of last year's introduction that is
likely to be of service to the
exhibitor, and this year, so far
as I am aware, the record will be
a blank. It will be noted that all
of these new Roses I have named
are produced by Messrs. Alex.
Dickson and Sons, and the lovers
of Tea Roses owe them a great
debt of gratitude. When one re-
members that with the exception
of Mme. Constant Soupert we have
not had an exhibition Tea from
the Continent for more than ten
years, it almost looks as if, without
them. Tea Roses for exhibition
purposes would cease to exist.

Mrs. Hubert Taylor (Messrs.
-Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1909). —
A fine, strong, healthy constitu-
tion, with very vigorous growth.
A suggestion of pale pink on its
petals is one of its distinctions.
A beautiful Rose, very free-flowering and, if
disbudded, of exhibition standard. Supposed
to be a Mme. Cusin seedling. It received the gold
medal of the National Rose Society at the Luton
Show in 1908, very much to the delight of Mr.
Mawley I remember, after whose niece it is named.
Nita Weldon (Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons,
r909). — Another white Tea with a delicate flush.
Sent out by the raisers as a decorative variety
only, it has during the last two years been fre-
quently exhibited, and was well represented at the
" National " this year. It is a dehghtful Rose,
round - shaped rather than pointed, very free-
flowering and delicately perfumed. A good grower.
Climbing Souv. de Pierre Netting (Messrs.
Frank Cant and Co., 1912). — ^All Tea exhibitors
know how useful the type bearing this name is.

598

THE GARDEN.

[November 29, 1913.

I'AKl 01 1111:

,AKDhN AND LILY PONIJ Al ilAL I IXGULK V PL ACi;

I suggest they will find this form of it much more
so. It bears larger flowers, of a better colour and
shape, with less of the outer short, ragged petal
that so often disfigures the type. A plant I had
from the raisers last year has been very fine, and
is now flowering from the laterals of the early wood
of this year's growth. It is a rampant grower,
and I can strongly recommend it, not only to
exhibitors, but to garden lovers, as the
best yellow climber in commerce.

Herbert E. Molyneu.x.
Snulhampton. i^

{To be continued.)

an unobtrusive but elegantly wrought iron gate,
cunningly inserted between two tall English Yews,
to a path bordered by tall Yew hedges. At about
halfway along this path, at a point where it turns
sharply to the right, the stranger involuntarily
pauses in surprised admiration of the picture that
breaks on his or her view. Stretching out at their
feet is a long, formal Lily pond bespangled with

the cliuicest Nymphaias m white, crim-
son, pink and cream varieties. The
pond itself broadens out in the fore-
ground into a square pool, and was
designed specially with a view to
obtaining the best possible perspective
effect. On either side of the square
pool rise two simple jets of water
that, rising well above the eye-level,
meet in a sort of arch of water that
focusses the view down the long canal.
The bed design is very simple, being
merely rectangular borders running
close up to the coping of the pond
on either side, but by a skilful arrange-
ment of the planting the most exquisite
colour effects are obtained. This
varies somewhat from season to sea-
son, that for 1913 being as follows :
Three sides of the beds are edged with
Xepeta Mussinii and Cerastium tomen-
tosum. The fourth (or pond) side is
grouped with pale blue Linum nar-
bonense, Iris sibirica, and a few
grassy plants, such as Eulalia
japonica gracillima, &c. Each bed
also contains two masses of a dwarf
Rosemary, the remainder being filled in
with Ivy-leaved Pelargonium Gahlee.
By this combination a delicious laven-
der and pink effect is obtained. Even
if this were all there was to note about this garden,
the effect would be charming enough ; but it is
not. The designer conceived the happy idea of
sinking the whole some 2 feet and retaining the
banks, with a dry wall so arranged that a magnifi-
cent collection of alpines and trailing plants could
be introduced, and at the same time providing
a sort of panoramic view of the gardens as seen

GARDENS OF TO-DAY

HALLINGBURY PLACE,
BISHOP'S STORTFORD.

THE scries of gardens at
Hallingbury Place are par-
ticularly fine examples of
what can be done in a com-
paratively short time, pro-
viding natural facilities,
such as are to be found there, exist.
When about three years ago Mrs.
Locket t Agnew, whose charming home
this is, decided to remodel the whole
place, few of the beautiful features
to be found there now were in exist-
ence ; yet at the time of our visit,
during the closing days of May, the
whole were so well furnished as to
give one the impression that they had
been there for quite a long period.
As already indicated, the surroundings
of Hallingbury Place consist of a
unique series of gardens, each com-
plete in itself, but each leading
naturally and connectedly to the next.

The Sunk Garden and Lily Pond.-^

Tuniiug lo the left, one enters through

PERGOLA IN THE ROSE GARDEN, WITH MADONNA LILIES, AND A BED OF NEPETA MUSSINII IN

THE DISTANCE.

November 29, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

599

Irom tlie approach. At the base of the wall
garden runs a path surrounding the four sides,
approached at either end down steps through
the wall. Between this path and the beds a just
proportion of grassy lawn is introduced, while
surrounding the whole garden are broad grass
walks that provide just that note of peace and
rest so desirable in any garden, and so frequently
missing when any attempt at formal lines is intro-
duced. The whole effect of the sunk garden
is to lead the eye towards the woodland, and
attract the stranger on and through it to see
what lies beyond. In passing, however, one is
compelled to notice the fine groupings of Fox-
gloves, Mulleins and other flowering hardy plants,
grouped with real natural chapn in the shadows.
There is one other feature in the woodland that
demands notice — a magnificent pair of giant Cedars ;
two of the finest we have ever seen, indeed. It
is said of these two that some
450 years ago one of the ancestors of
the present owners of the estate
brought two cones from the Holy
Land and planted them in this posi-
tion, and that these trees are the
result.
May-Flowering Tulips Massed for

Colour Effect. — Passing on to the
left, along a slightly-curved path,
the visitor (if he happens to be there
at the right season) opens a small
wicket-gate, takes a few steps for-
ward, and receives surprise No. 2.
On the right, stretching away in
every direction among the trees, arc
gorgeous masses of May-flowering and
Darwin Tulips. The trees have been
so thinned as to create long vistas,
luige beds made in the grass, and
the varieties so arranged that from
all the principal points of view the
colours form distinct and pleasing
gradations or combinations. In the
foreground are massed the stronger
colours, such as Pride of Haarlem
and Professor Rawenhofi, while in
the e.\treme distance the paler
lavender and lilac shades, such as
Melicette and Erguste, are used.

The Rose Garden.— Continuins

the walk, one passes through Yew
hedges into the Rose garden. Every-
thing on the estate, the house, walls
and buildings, is of brick — brick that
has taken on the tone of age, and
that looks warm and rich in the
Herts atmosphere. The pergola
that extends the whole length of the Rose
garden was therefore constructed of old brick,
relieved with tile creasing at about every four
courses. This has the effect of somewhat
lightening the appearance of the pillars, and gives
a sensation of design that, whde looking in no
way " fussy," certainly achieves the result of
destroying the monotony of plain pillars. All the
walks are paved just sufficiently wide to ensure
dry walking during wet weather. One of the most
charmmg features in the Rose garden is a long,
straight walk, paved and bordered with Lavender.
Rising above the Lavender are stout Fir poles
about five feet high, on which climbing Roses
are festooned from one to the other. Coloiur
effects here, as everywhere else, have been carefully
studied. Pale lavender blue Clematises mingle with
pink Ruses on the walls ; pretty combinations of

pink and cream are used elsewhere, while here and
there a mass of rich dark purple Clematis is mixed
with just the right shade of crimson Roses.

boulders rise from masses of every known variety
of alpine and rock plant, and every crevice and
cranny is rich with some choice gem, while the

One could linger here and find much of interest for | stream and its banks become in the summer-
a considerable time, but there is much else that 1 time a miniature wilderness of aquatic and semi-
caUs for attention. Stretching along the whole front , aquatic life. Here, again, the art of concealment
line of the Rose garden are tennis and croquet has been so carefully utilised that it is quite im-
lawns, approached by broad picturesque steps, possible to realise the existence of the rock garden
Before the gardens, teimis courts, &c., were made, until it actually breaks on the view. Returning by
there was a simk fence that extended right rormd 1 the opposite side of the pond, the visitor arrives

the gardens, over half a mUe in length. At this
point the land has been sloped back to an easy
gradient from the base of the wall and planted

again at the entrance to the Rose garden ; but
there is no need to go back that way.
The Wild Garden. — Straight on is a broad

thickly with wichiuraiana and other free-growing pathway, "u the right of which is the wild spring
Roses. Crevices have been made in the brickwork garden. As, however, at the time of our visit
and filled with Antirrhinimis, Aubrietias, Alyssums, this was past its best, we cannot speak authorita-
Achilleas, Campanulas and numerous other plants tively as to its effect, but the arrangement of its
suitable for wall culture, with an artistic effect undulating walks, grassy banks and the rejnains
that it is impossible to adequately describe. 1 of innumerable spring-flowering plants lead us

M.W-lLOWliRIXG lULIPS GKOUPUD iOR COLOUR lil 1 ECI UNDER

AGNEW'S GARDENS.

APPLE TREES IN MRS. LOCKETT

The Ornamental Pond and Rock Garden. —

Leavmg the Rose garden, through a very beautiful
iron gate, one instinctively turns to the right, where
a fine stretch of water meets the gaze. This is
the " Morley " pond, believed to have been an old
fish pond, and round which clings the romance
of a ghost story. By the removal of some
thousands of tons of earth, creating long, sloping
valleys between giant Oaks right down to the
water's edge, what was once a rectangular pond,
bounded by gravel paths, has been transformed into
a beautiful natural water garden, just sufficiently
planted to give pleasing effects without over-
crowding. Some irregular stepping-stones tempt
the stranger on until, having traversed the length
of the pond, one arrives at the rock garden.
The overflow from the pond is taken through
the rock garden in a sort of rocky stream. Great

to think that it possesses, when in flower, a charm
all its own. Hastening on, one reaches a superb
herbaceous border, and, pausing here and there to
admire various effects therein, suddenly emerges
into what is called the wild garden, where Art and
Nature have combined to achieve one of the
simplest, and yet most exquisite, garden pictures
imaginable. Involuntarily, as one enters between
the trees and catches glimpses of the riot of growth
and flower in every direction, the words of Gold-
smith's "Deserted Village" enter the mind:

Near yonder copse where once a garden smiled.
And still where many a garden flower grows wild.

Poppies, Pseonies, Liliums, Broom, Lupines, Rose-
mary, flowering shrubs of all descriptions. Azaleas,
Briars, anything and everything have been pressed
into service ; nothing has been considered too good
or too common if it was only beautiful and could

600

THE GARDEN.

[November 29, 1913,

be made to grow. And we must here pay a tribute
to the talented head-gardener, Mr. Heath, who
by some e,\traordinary magical influence manages
so to organise these delightful gardens that failures
seem to be non-existent. We do not remember
through the whole course of a pleasant day seeing
one plant that did not speak eloquently of the
care and attention bestowed, and yet the whole is
maintained in its proper character.

Would space permit, there are a great many
other interesting features at Hallingbury Place
that we could write about, such as the beautiful
Cedar avenue, the kitchen garden and glass-houses,
and the old Mulberry tree planted in the titae of
James I. in obedience to the
Royal Command to plant Mul-
berries for silkworms. The series
of gardens, of which we give a
few typical illustrations, have been
designed and carried out by Messrs.
R. Wallace and Co., under the super-
vision of Mr. George Dillistone,
whose articles on rock garden
construction we are now publishing.
Mrs. Lockett Agnew, who is an
ardent admirer of all that is
beautiful in Nature, and particu-
larly in gardening, has taken an
enthusiastic interest in the makine
of these gardens.

the side of the greenhouse. A small iron hutch
measuring about twenty inches square fits over
the boiler, and so keeps it protected from the
weather, but at the same time lets the fumes
escape through a number of ventilation holes
round its sides. The pipes, which are 4 inches
in diameter, heat up in about an hour
from the time the gas is turned on, and,
when the desired heat is obtained, the gas
can be turned down to a small peep just
sufficient to keep the heat in the pipes. It
will thus be seen that a very small quantity
of gas is consumed, and, as gas is now so cheap
everywhere, the cost is not great.

the weather become suddenly cold, the heat can
be turned on in a second. On dull, wet days
it can be most successfully used to dry the atmo-
sphere by turning on the gas for an hour or so.
These boilers are sure to give satisfaction if kept
in good condition, and the time and labour they
save make them a boon to the amateur. G. B.

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

GAS BOILERS FOR
GREENHOUSE HEATING.

I DARESAY that many am -i-
teurs who, like myself, are
away all day at business
have avoided getting a
greenhouse, or, if they have
one, it is a cold house with
no heating apparatus, owing to the
trouble of attending to the fire.
This is a very reasonable excuse,
as it is no joke to come home after
a long day at the office and go
straight out to stoke a fire, nor
is it the kind of work that one likes
to ask those at home to do. I
was in this predicament myself
for some time, when I noticed a
gas boiler advertised for heating
a garage, and on making enquiries
I found that there were several
on the market suitable for heat-
ing greenhouses. I made up my
mind then to get a greenhouse
and try heating it with gas. I
got a local man to build me a
small greenhouse, and I then
ordered the boiler and a suitable
length of pipes, which arrived
in due course. All were easily fitted together
and a pipe connected with the meter in the house.
On this pipe there are two cocks, one at the boiler
and the other at the meter. The advantage of
having the one at the meter is that during the
summer, and when the heat is not wanted, the
gas can be turned off here, and so prevent any
possible waste by an escape in the pipe out to the
boiler.

With the apparatus that I have, no fumes can
possibly reach the plants, as the boiler is outside
of the greenhouse, and is connected to the main
pipes inside by two small pipes which pass through

FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE.
Columnea oerstediana. — A remarkably beauti-
ful gesneraceous plant from Costa Rica. The
species is of shrubby growth,
the prostrate or trailing branches
thickly set with small, ovate,
shining leaves, from whose axils,
on short footstalks, the 2-inch-
long, tubular flowers issue. These
latter are of the most bril-
liant colouring, almost orange
scarlet, save fur a touch of
yellow colouring near the throat.
The well-flowered example, illus-
trated on this page, was a great
attraction. From Sir Trevor
Lawrence, Bart., Dorking (gar-
dener, Mr. Bain).

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Begonia Syros (B. socotrana
Trussed with a tuberous-rooted
variety). — Quite a charming addi-
tion to winter-flowering Begonias,
the compact habit and abundant
flowering rendering it most at-
tractive. The predominant colour
shade is pink, with a suspicion
of white at the edges. From
Messrs. James Veitch and Sons,
Chelsea.

Chrysanthemum Mary Morris.
— A well-grown plant, some 4 feet
liigh, of this single - flowered
variety was shown, and a few
such would be welcome in any
conservatory at this season. The
colour is deep terra-cotta, with
reddish bronze. It is a very
showy variety. From Mr. T.
Stevenson, gardener to E.
Mocatta, Esq., Addlestone,
Surrey.

NEW ORCHIDS.
AWARDS OF MERIT.

The species and varieties to
gain awards were of a varied
nature. Lieutenant - Colonel Sir
George Holford, K.C.V.O., showed
Any amateurs who have hitherto debarred 1 a handsome Cypripedium named Cyclops. Messrs.
themselves the pleasures of a greenhouse, owing , Charlesworth and Co. gained awards for a

THE BRILLIANTLY COLOURED COLUMNE.\ CERSTEDIANA FROM COSTA
RICA. IT WAS DISCOVERED IN 1861, BUT LOST TO CULTIVATION
UNTIL RECENTLY.

to the time and trouble spent with the ordinary
coke fire, should write to the makers of any of
the advertised boilers and ask them for particulars.
My own is a " Garajo," and I can confidently

grand variety of Laelio - Cattleya Feronia and
for Angraecum recurvum, the latter an in-
teresting species with comparatively small white
flowers. Messrs. Flory and Black of Slough

recommend this to anyone, as I have never had showed Dendrobium leeanum Langley Variety,

the slightest trouble with it, and the only attention while from Messrs. Armstrong and Brown

it needs is an occasional brush over to remove came MUtonioda Harwoodii The Shrubbery Variety

any particles of dirt which the gas discharges, and Cypripedium Kentore, the latter an attrac-

I have found it very economical, because if the tive variety possessing some of the charac-

nights are mild there is no necessity to have any teristics of C. fairreanum, from which it is

artificial heat in the greenhouse at all, and should descended.

November 29, igi^-]

THE GARDEN.

601

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR SMALL GARDENS.

HERE are now so many shrubs avail- large, flattened heads of bright red flowers freely
able for the outdoor garden that those | over a period of several weeks during July and
who have little knowledge on the i August. The best results are obtained by pruning

T

■ subject experience a difiiculty in

^ making up their minds which to choose ;

therefore the following list of twelve
really good and showy kinds has been com-
piled as an aid to beginners who are about to make
a selection for present planting. The peculiarities
of each kind are dealt with briefly
in the accompanying notes.

Hamamelis mollis. — This is the
best of the Witch Hazels. It is
a native of China, and is recog-
nised by its large, broadly oval,
hairy leaves and fragrant, golden
flowers, which appear during
December or January. The petals
difier from those of other Witch
Hazels by being flat with hooked
ends, instead of twisted, as is usual
in other kinds. It thrives in light,
well-drained, loamy soil, to which
a little peat has been added, and
requires a light and open position.
No other pruning is necessary ex-
cept what is required to keep the
plant in shape.

Ribes sanguineum atrorubens
is a very rich coloured form of
the ordinary Flowering Currant.
When planted in good loamy soil
it grows into a bush 4 feet or
3 feet high and as far across,
and bears its rich red flowers
Ireely during .^pril. No regular
priming need be given, but if
vigorous young shoots appear
from about the base, it is a good
plan to encourage them by re-
moving one or two of the older
branches.

Daphne Mezereiun. — No plant
is more popular than this when
it is covered with its fragrant,
red flowers in February. It is
often met with as a shapely bush
2 feet to 2j feet high. Cool,
loamy soil containing a little
lime suits it well. Towards the
middle of the summer it is
again showy by reason of it;
rich red fruits. It does not
require pruning.

the younger branches about halfway back each
spring, and removing at the same time some of
the older wood right to the base. Give rich, loamy
soil and a sunny position.

Magnolia stellata. — Though this is one of the
nuist bcciulilul of all flowering shrubs, it is only

\\>ii'

■.Vil-'\.-*."

VIBURNUM TINUS OR LAURUSTINUS, A BEAUTIFUL WINTER
FLOWERING SHRUB FOR SMALL AND LARGE GARDENS.

themselves on any object within reach, and the
secondary branchlets hang m graceful fashion
round about. A somewhat similar effect is produced
when it is planted against a pillar or trellis, but
when planted in a bed in the open ground and cut
hard back to within a couple of feet of the soil
each year after flowering, it forms strong, erect
shoots 3 feet to 4 feet long, which blossom from
base to summit. .\ny good garden soil is suitable.
Prunus japonica flore albo

pleno. — This IS a double white
flowered form of a dwarf Cherry
from China and Japan. It forms
long, slender branches, which bear
blossoms from almost every leaf-
axil during .\pril or May. Good,
loamy soil must be provided, and
some of the older wood be re-
moved every second year to make
way for young growth, for the
more vigorous the young wood is,'
the greater is the number of flowers.

Diervilla Eva Rathke is one of
the most beautiful of the many
charming garden forms of the
genus. Its rich crimson flowers
are borne freely during the greater
part of the summer. Plant in
rich, loamy soil and remove a little
of the older wood each year, allow-
ing the young wood to remain its
lull length.

Viburnum tomentosum plica

tum. — Few shrubs are more
beautiful than this during June
or early July, for at that period il
is a mass of round flower-heads,
the flowers being sterile and
made up of large white bracts after
the manner of our common Snow-
ball Tree. It is a native of
China, grows 5 feet high in loamy
soil, and requires no pruning. A
light and sunny position is desirable.
Viburnum Tinus.— This is the
Laurustinus of Southern Europe
and our gardens. Many people will
doubtless be familiar with it, and
those who do not already know it
may gain a good idea of its beauty
from the accompanying illustra-
tion. Its dark, evergreen leaves
provide an excellent background
for its waxy white flowers, which

Spiraea arguta is, perhaps, the best of the I suitable for the milder parts of the country, for open at intervals from November to March,
early-flowering Spiraeas. It is of hybrid origin and [ its glistening white, star-shaped flowers expand | Ordinary garden soil suits it, but it must not

at its best during April. At that time every
branch is laden with pure white blossoms. Wlien
planted in loamy soil it may be expected to grow
at least 4 feet high, with a wide spread. The
branchlets are slender and have a graceful poise.
Diiring the summer they carry dainty, light green
leaves. It is only necessary to prune when the
bushes are outgrowing their positions. The
branches may then be cut back well as soon as the
flowers fade.

Spiraea japonica Anthony Waterer belongs to
the summer-flowering Spiraeas. Growing about
two feet high, it forms a shapely bush, and produces

during early April and are sometimes injured by | be transplanted when large. No regular pruning
late frosts. Under favourable conditions it forms is necessary.

a shapely bush 6 feet to iz feet high, and the Cytisus scoparius andreanus is a variety of
branches are hidden beneath its wealth of flowers, the common Broom which differs from the type
Well-diained loamy soil with a little peat suits it i by having rich reddish brown mng petals. It

well. It does not require pruning.

Forsythia suspensa is easily one of the best
twelve flowering shrubs. A native of China, it
forms a rather loose, graceful shrul) S feet to
15 feet high, and bears a profusion of golden,
bell-shaped flowers during April. Its character
is altered according to the way in which it is grown.
If allowed to grow freely, its main branches support

may be grown almost anywhere, even in com-
paratively poor soil. Pruning must be practised
each year as soon as the flowers fade, but the
branches must not be cut back into wood which
is older than one year. The blossoms appear in
May.

In a future article I will name another dozen
for those who require a wider selection. D.

602

THE GARDEN.

[November 29, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Helleborus niger. — This beautiful midwinter
flowering plant is in a forward condition this year,
and to ensure having the blooms as free from
marks and stains as possible, steps should be taken
to cover them with lights. Before doing so all
dead and decaying leaves should be cleared off
the plants, and a good soaking of liquid manure
may be given. The lights should be raised above the
plants some 2 feet or 3 feet, so as to allow a current
of air to pass over the plants, and thus keep them
as dry as possible at this season. The practice of
lifting the roots and placing them indoors is not
to be recommended, as, by covering as advised, the
flowers may be had quite as clean, and, further,
there is no check to the plants. If lifted, they take
at least two seasons to get over the check.

Solomon's Seal. — This ever-popular plant is
very useful in the spring for cutting, and where
grown in quantity, lifted clumps make good
decorative subjects for the conservatory. To
increase the stock, clumps should be lifted, replant-
ing the individual crowns from 6 inches to 9 inches
apart in rows.

Spiraeas may now be lifted for forcing purposes,
splitting up a portion of the plants and replanting
for stock. These like a fairly sandy soil, and it
should be liberally dressed with short manure.
In planting, sufficient space should be allowed the
plants to develop their foliage, without which it
is impossible to secure good crowns.

Plants Under Glass.

Bulbs. — The several varieties of Due van Thol
Tulips should now be ready for introducing into
heat ; and after seeing with what success such sub-
lects are handled by our market-growers, I am led to
think that the majority of private gardeners give
them too much light and not sufficient heat. The
house or frame should be covered either with mats
or tiffany till the flowers are well in evidence, when
the plants should be given a little more light and
air. A temperature of from 60° to 70° is necessary
to get them fairly long in the stems, and at no time
should they be allowed to become dry at the root.
Frequent dampings overhead are essential.

Narcissi Van Sion and Golden Spur may also

be brought in, but these will not stand quite so
much heat as the Tulips. Other details of culti-
vation are similar.

Roman Hyacinths are now making a good
show, and for use as pot plants they should be
carefully staked. The later batches may be
brought out of the cold frames, as if left there
much longer tlie blooms will be inclined to damp.

Italian Hyacinths may be brought forward
to succeed the Roman Hyacinths. These are
particularly useful in January and February, both
as pot plants and for cut flowers. The large-
flowering varieties of Hyacinths generally are not
ready for bringing forward, but the variety La
Tour de Auvergne forces well, and I have frequently
had it in good condition by Christmas and the
New Year. Most of the early bulbs under ashes
should be gone over, and those that have rooted
well and made 2 inches or 3 inches of top growth
may be removed to the cold frame, where they
should be covered with mats for a few days to
exclude the light, and ample protection must be
provided against frost.

Cyclamen that are throwing up flowers must be
well looked after in the way of water and manure,
as just at this stage there is a great strain on the
plants. I noted a very fine batch of these plants
at the Paris Show, the foliage covering a space
of at least 18 inches, while the flowers were equally
good. The grower told me they were only one
year old, and were grown in a moderately warm
house all through. The difference between these
and part of the Semie batch grown in frames
was particularly noticeable ; hence the deduction
that the plants like a little warmth at the root,
especially where early plants are desired.

The Kitchen Garden.
Seakale. — By this date Seakale should force
fairly well, and batches should be introduced into
the forcing-house or frame at intervals, according
to the requirements of the establishment, though
where limited quantities are to hand it may be

advisable to reserve them somewhat until the
supply of outdoor vegetables is less plentiful.

Asparagus. — Further batches should be placed in
the frames as required. A good batch put in now
should be ready for use about Christmas or the
New Year, a time when choice vegetables are in
great demand.

Mint should now be introduced into heat, and
if this has been grown in boxes as advised in a
calendar early in the year, it will be found to force
much more quickly than roots freshly lifted from
the open ground.

French Beans. — The supply of French Beans
is about over in the cold frames, though where the
pits are heated the plants may remain for a week
or two longer. Batches that are coming along
in pots must receive careful attention. They must
not be allowed to get dry at the root, and frequent
dampings between the pots should arrest any
attacks from spider.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Transplanting Fruit Trees. — The weather up

to now has kept very open, and the major portion
of transplanting fruit trees should be com-
pleted. Where it is not finished, I would advise
pushing the matter forward at once.

Bush Fruits. — Any contemplated additions in
this department should also be put in hand. Well-
trenched, though not heavily-manured groimd is
the best for bush fruits, and quite young bushes
are preferable to those that may have been cut
back three or four times.

The Cordon system of training Red and White
Currants and Gooseberries is to be preferred to
growing on the bush system. By this method
excellent crops are obtained, and the ease with
which they can be gathered should be a sufficient
recommendation. I quite believe that a heavier
crop can be obtained from a given area of groimd by
planting the rows of trees from 3 feet to 4 feet apart.
In the case of Gooseberries for dessert purposes, it
is infinitely better, the fruits being of a uniform
quality, while those on bush trees are of varying
degrees of quality, according to the light and air
obtainable. Thomas Stevenson.

(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wobiirn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Bedding Plants. — The stock of these will require
careful attention for the next few weeks. Damp
is the worst enemy at this season. Geraniums
should be kept fairly dry, and, when watered, it
ought to be done without a rose, so that no water
may touch the foliage.

Flower-Stakes. — The stock of these should be
overhauled during bad weather. In many cases
where a stake is decayed at the base, a portion can
be cut away and the stake repointed, when it will
be fit for another class of plant. The ubiquitous
Bamboo has well-nigh ousted all others, but those
who have them at command should utilise Hazel
and Elm suckers. Again, those who can on their
own estate procure tops or thinnings of Larch or
Spruce will find them, when dressed, very suitable
for Dahlia and Hollyhock stakes, and when partially
trimmed they are excellent for Sweet Pea clumps_

The Wall Garden.
Building. — The most natural and generally
the most successful wall garden is that of the
retaining wall style, the mass of soil behind
conserving the moisture for the use of the occupants.
Build the wall with a good deal of "batter";
in other words, the wall should not be perpendicu-
lar, but slope backwards. As the operation proceeds,
work in some loamv soil behind and between the
stones. Where plaiits are available, it will be
foimd a good plan to plant them as the work pro-
ceeds, a proportion of the available spaces being
left for subsequent planting or sowing. Another
important point is that the individual stones,
when being placed in position, should slope a little
backwards, so that the rain falling on them will
trickle towards the roots of the plants.
The Pleasure Grounds.

Turflng. — Any necessary turfing should be
carried through during fine' weather. Rough tufts

of grass often assert themselves on lawns, and some-
times there are spots where the rabbits frequently
congregate. These should be cut out and some
good turf substituted. Again, depressions occur
in lawns from time to time. In such cases the
turf should be cut into convenient breadths,
rolled back, the depression made up with soil not
richer than the mass below the lawn, and the turf
rolled back and beaten firm and smooth.

Pruning Ornamental Trees. — I am not here

referring to a general pruning, but Purple Beeches,
Thorns, Laburnums, &c., often lose their contour
for lack of a little timely attention in the way of
pruning back any over-vigorous branches.

Plants Under Glass.

PlimibagO rosea. — This is one of our most
useful winter-flowering plants. Those in 5-inch
pots will be benefited by bi-weekly mild doses of
liqmd manure. A temperature of 60° to 65° suits
them admirably.

Coleus thyrsoideus. — This plant will soon be
showing its bright blue flowers. Meanwhile it
should be pretty liberally fed. A warm greenhouse
is all it wants in the way of temperature.

Lily 0! the Valley. — This is such a general
favourite and is so easily manipiflated that a batch
of it should be introduced from time to time.
Good retarded crowns are the most satisfacton,'.
Plimge in some light material, which should never
be allowed to become dry. Cover the pots with
an inverted pot of the same size till the flower-
spikes are quite 2 inches high. In a temperature
of from 60° to 65° they will be ready in about
three weeks.

Fruits Under Glass.

Sowing Early Tomatoes. — Where an early crop
is desired, seed should be sown without delay.
For this sowing some of the smaller, free-setting
varieties, such as Stirling Castle or Lister's Prolific,
will be found most suitable.

Starting the Early Peach-House. — Where there

are two or more houses, one may now be started.
Previous directions having been carried out, all
that is required at present is to shut up the house,
and, if frost occurs, do not let the night tempera-
ture fall below 40°, nor allow it to rise above 45°.
Early Vinery. — As the buds begin to swell, the
night temperature may be raised to from 53°
to 55°, with a corresponding rise in the day tempera-
ture. Spray the rods in the morning and early
afternoon.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Nailing Wall Trees. — This work can be carried
on in frosty weather ; but while a touch of frost
makes conditions quite comfortable, it is a shame
to keep men at this operation under Arctic
conditions. Nails will not rust if heated well
and then dropped into linseed oil. In training
young trees, leading shoots, if over-vigorous,
should be bent downwards somewhat to check
the flow of sap ; while, on the other hand, weakly
shoots should be inclined upwards to encourage
the more rapid flow of sap.

Heading Back for Grafting. — Where grafting

is contemplated oil old Apple or Pear trees, they
shotild be headed back with a saw, care being
taken not to splinter the stock during the opera-
tion. Young stocks should also be headed back
with a sharp knife to near the point where it is
intended to operate. For dwarfs this shotfld be
about nine inches from the ground. In the case
of standards, the height at which the stock should
be cut depends upon the variety to be worked
upon it. If a fairly vigorous variety, cut also at
9 inches from the ground, and form the rest of the
stem with the scion.

The Vegetable Garden.

Repairing Box Edgings. — Any blanks in the Box
edgings should be made up during fine weather.
If there is no spare Box, a stretch should be relaid
and the surplus used for " beating up."

Repairing Walks. — Now is the time to attend
to this work. Happy are those who have access
to good gravel without paying a ransom for it.
If the vegetable garden does not occupy a very
prominent position and is mostly regarded from
the utilitarian point of view, rough ashes will form
quite comfortable pathways at Uttle or no cost.
A walk when finished should be slightly convex
in form. Charles Comfort.

Broomfield Gardewi, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

November 2q, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

603

THE SILVER-LEAF DISEASE
OF FRUIT TREES.

ITS CAUSE AND PREVENTION.

{Continued from page 57;.)

How the Silvering of Foliage is Caused.—

Although in the recognition of silver-leaf there is
no difficulty, it should still be explained how the
appearance conies about. It is primarily due,
Mr. Brooks says, to the accumulation of air, either
below the epidermal cells or in the cavities of their
walls, the presence of air in these places interfering
with the normal reflection of light from the surface
of the leaf. The upper epidermis is more or less
loose from the palisade cells. There is a marked
tendency for the mesophyll cells to fall asunder
when sections of the leaf are cut, and so pronounced
is this that it is sometimes impossible to obtain
sections of silvered leaves which will hold together.
Prevention and Remedy.— In the treatment of
plantations it must be remembered that the cause
of this disease, like many other fungi, is a wound
parasite, i.e., it attacks the tree only through its
wounds. It is, therefore, correct to protect the
wounds of a healthy tree by means of tar, and this
ought not to be neglected. The sanitation of the
district by destroying the Stereum itself, upon
whatever it may grow, is highly important. Mr.
Brooks says : " It cannot be too strongly urged
that all tissues upon which the sporophores of
this fungus appear in fruit plantations should be
destroyed. Experiments indicate that Stereum
purpureum taken from material such as a dead
Birch stump is equally as efiective in causing silver-
leaf as Steremn purpureum taken from a Plum
tree ; hence no quarter should be extended to
the fungus in fruit plantations, on whatever sub-
stratum it may be found." Experience has shown,
Mr. Brooks says, that benefit is derived by cutting
out affected branches. The recovery of slightly-
infected trees is not infrequent, but no reason
has been found to alter his suggestion that Plum
trees badly silvered and beginning to die back
should be destroyed. Grease-banding, improperly
carried out, by application of grease to the bark
itself, is believed to favour the development of
silver-leaf disease. It causes death of the bark,
and therefore provides a place for attack. Grease-
banding should always be done by means of bands,
so that the grease cannot penetrate to the bark.

Ferrous Sulphate as a Cure. — For the purpose

of cure it has been suggested by fruit-growers in
the case of Plum trees that ferrous sulphate should
be applied to the roots ; but this method of treat-
ment was tried by Mr. Spencer Pickering on a
considerable scale at the Woburn Experimental
Fruit Farm a few years ago, without success.
A similar method, by means of heavy dressings of
ferrous sulphate with farmyard or artificial manure,
has, apparently, been tried with success. The
trees showed great improvement, and one became

' free from disease. Experiments after another
manner have been observed by Mr. Brooks, that

. were carried out by Mr. E. Neaverson near Wisbech.

,.■ Forty-nine silvered Victoria Plmn trees about
twenty years of age had a hole drilled in the trunk
ih'iut three feet from the ground ; about an ounce of
• 1 1 lus sulphate was inserted in each hole, which
^it.rwards was closed with a cork bung. This
\\ MS done in igio, and examination two years later
-linwed that of all the trees 25 per cent, had
I rovered, while 34 per cent, of those only slightly
ollected had been restored to health. But these
results, apparently, must be taken with caution.

for though ferrous sulphate is certainly poisonous to
the mycelium or spawn, it is doubtful whether its
influence would be extensive. Such a remedy,
however, is worth trying, for certainly I remembtr
having seen wood sections which had been coloured
by the application of the salt of a metal, dissolved
in water, to the roots. Someone had conceived
the idea of staining the wood in bulk while ye*
alive, and to a certain extent had succeeded, a
blue colour being quite evident. The wood, I
believe, was Botch.

Fungus Juice as a Remedy. — .^n interesting
method of cure suggested by Miss Baker in the
" Annals of Botany " for 1913 and quoted by
Mr. Brooks, also by Professor Houston in
The Gardes for May 3, page 215, must
further be mentioned. It appears that a well-
known and not uncommon fungus, Coprinus
comatus, which may be found in meadows and
gardens in the autumn, has the power of secreting
a kind of digestive fluid by which it is itself digested.
The fungus, by means of its digestive fluid, is
rapidly deliquescent, and where it grew there
presently remains nothing but a black fluid resem-
bling ink. It is proposed, then, to use an aqueous
extract of the fungus, both internally and exter-
nally, for the purpose of destroying the Stereum
in the way that the Coprinus itself is destroyed.
It has been tried on a Victoria Plum, and two
years later the silvered branch became almost
free from silver-leaf. The well-known phenomenon
of auto or self digestion, shown by the fruit bodies
of most species of Coprinus, forms the theoretical
basis for this treatment, and it is even suggested
that the separation of the cells of the leaf, to which
the appearance of silver-leaf is due, may be brought
about by an oxydase or enzyme which is secreted
by the Stereum. This was suggested by Percival,
and, I believe, is suggested by Miss Baker, but Mr.
Brooks has not been able to confirm it. Coprinus
comatus is easily recognised by its nearly cylindrical
cap with peeling skin, which bears a fancied resem-
blance to a wig on a barber's block. It is edible,
but is not so good as Mushroom. Stereum pur-
pureum is a fungus of leathery consistence, pro-
jecting in scales, irregular in form, more or less
imbricate and refle.\ed. tomentose or velvety
and whitish or pallid above, but zoned with darker
marking ; smooth, even and of pale clear purple
below.

Warning and Conclusion. — In order that too
much may not be understood or expected from
what I have said about remedies, it cannot be too
emphatically stated that no one has produced
any reliable evidence of cure. Experiments tried
with one or two trees are verj- far from conclusive,
and should not be relied on. Numbers are neces-
sary and " controls " essential. The trees, indeed,
sometimes cure themselves, and the factor of
self-cure in these cases is quite unknown. Mr.
Brooks, in conversation, has kindly informed me
that his extensive experiments in the use of ferrous
sulphate have this year shown no good result,
and this experience, it will be noticed above,
agrees with that recorded by Mr. Spencer Pickering.
In the case of Miss Baker's experiment, only one
tree was tried, and I imderstand that evidence is
not altogether promising. In this warning I desire
to be emphatic, because I hear of a fine orchard
of Plums now nearly destroyed which the owner
might have saved by removing the first badly-
infected trees. I have during the past summer
visited Cornwall and Scilly, and have everywhere
found the disease. It is, indeed, remarkable that
although it must always have been extant, little

has been heard of it until recent years. For this,
however, there are reasons. It has extended,
no doubt, with the development of fruit culture,
and formerly the loss of a tree would hardly have
been remarked. .\ new tree would be planted
and, being sound, it would be some years before
it could be attacked. Experiments must continue ;
but with regard to the use of ferrous sulphate I
should like to quote Griffiths' " A Treatise on
Manures" (second edition, page 306). The author
writes : " Iron sulphate in excess is a plant poison.
It is well kno\^i that an excess of iron in a soil
may cause a soil to become barren." The illus-
tration on page 571 of November 15 issue repre-
sents Stereum purpureum, which I learn from
Mr. Brooks is the only species that can cause
the disease. An ally, S. hirsutum, yellow and
not purple below, is therefore not to be feared.
It is growing on the stem of an Apple Royal
Snow, which had been cut down for grafting upon ;
hence the disease. This case certainly suggests
precautions when grafting is done. In taking the
photograph, size has been reduced to slightly less
than one-half. For further information, especially
of the convincmg methods of Mr. "Brooks' experi-
ments, I must refer one to his papers in the " Journal
of Agricultural Science," Vol. IV., Part 2, October,
191 1, and Vol. V., Part 3, June, 1913, page 288,
which has been recently published.
Botanic Garden, Cambridge. R. Irwin Lynch.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.~rAe EdiUir intends to
make THE Garden helpful to alt readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will malce a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly ami concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the EDITOR of THE Gardbn, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W .C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any dejiignation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more ttian one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
sfioots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.

FLOWER GARDEN.

PLANTING SWEET WOODRUFF (C. M.j.^Xhc Sweet
Woodrutf (Aspirula ucloiata) is Ijy no means a fastidious
subject, and may bf planted at any time in open weather.
The plant revels in light soils and does not object to
heavier soils over chalk, but is less rampant on clay soils.
If you secure established examples, there need be little
fear of their not doing well ; it is different, however, when
only single-rooted shoots are planted. You do not say
the purpose for which you intend the plants, but we would
warn you not to plant on the rockery where choice plants
abound. They are apt to get into every crevice and presently
become- a nuisance.

HERBACEOUS BORDER PLANTS (G. B.).— You
canntit do better, wc think, than arrange the border in
groups. Starting at the front you might have Aster
sub-cserulcus ; alpine Pliloxes, as setacea. Vivid, Nelsouii,
atropurpurea, .Model and amoena , the newer Mossy
Saxifragas, as C'librani, bathoniensis, sanguinea superba
and Miss Willmott : Arnebia echioides, Polygonum
affine. Orobus vernus, Adonis vernahs. Lychnis Viscaria
splendens plena. Lithospermum prostratum. Iris pumila
carulea. Iberis sempcrvireus, Gentiana acaidis, .\ubrietias
and the like. These would look best if set among sandstone
rocks in yard wide masses. Behind these another informal
set of groups might be made up of Inula glandulosa.
Helenium pumilum. Heuchera sanguinea and its many
varieties of hybrids. Phlox canadensis, Geum Mrs. Brad-
shaw, Potentilla Gibson's Scarlet, Aster .\mcllus, A. A.
Riverslea, single and double Pyrethrums, Erigeron speciosus
superbus. Delphmium Belladonna. Campanula pcrsici-
foHa Moerheimi, C. oarpatica Uiverslea, C. van Houttei,
Aster acris. Aquilegia chrysantha, Thahctrum aquilegi-
folium and T. a. afropurpurcum ; and in the hack row
herbaceous Pseonies, Phloxes white and scarlet. Asters

604

THE GARDEN.

[November 29, 1913.

ericoides Desire, Feltham Blue, Beauty of Colwall and cordl-
folius Ideal, Helianthus multiflorus, H. m. flore pleuo. Iris
pallida dalmatica and such Delphiniums as King of
Delphiniums, Rev. E. Laseelles, Amos Perry, La France
and Duchess of Connausht. These should have not less
than three, and better if five, to each proup or colony.
The wider end might have a big flanking group of the white
and pink Japanese Anemones stretching halfway across
the border, and near to Aster Beauty of Colwall in like
proportion. You would obtain many good hints about
planting and grouping were you to consult " The Hardy
Flower Book." by E. H. Jenkins, price 2s. lOd. post free
from our Publishing Department. It is rich in lists and
suggestions.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

PRUNING CEANOTHUS (A. R.).—Yom Ceanothus
Gloire de Versailles may be left unpruued until February,
when you may cut the present year's shoots back about
halfway. This pruning should be repeated annually,
but if a number of very weak shoots are formed, some
should be cut clean out and others pruned to within a bud
or two of the base. There is no reason why you should
not save seed of your Primula, providing you resort to
hand pollination. Place the plant in the sunniest position
you can.

THE GREENHOUSE.

CARNATION RUST (ietccstei). — The Carnation is
badly attacked by the Carnation rust. The main thing
to do is to keep the atmosphere dry and buoyant, and the
temperature sufficiently high — this does not mean avoid
watering the plants. Pick off tlie alfected foliage and bum
it, and spray the plants with a rose red solution of potas-
sium sulphide. ■-'tii'*'>'

BEGONIA LEAVES TURNING BROWN (F. C, Suffolk).—
The Begonias are badly attacked bv the leaf eelworm,
Aphelenchus olesistus. This pest a'ttacks many kinds
of greenhouse plants, including Ferns, and usually dipping
the plants in a wash containing nicotine is beneficial ;
spraying with the same might have a good effect. Fumiga-
tion is, in all probability, useless. The pest gains entrance
into the plants through the stomata and comes from the soil.
It is only when the plants are kept moist that the pest
can travel to the, stomal openings. It would be well
another year to discard the whole of the soil in which
the plants are growing, and to clean the pots thoroughlv
before beginning to get a new stock. The stock must,
of course, be a clean one, and it should be remembered
that the dust on the potting-bench might be a source of
infection.

FRUIT GARDEN.

PEACH TREE UNSATISFACTORY (C. C.).— The
variety is subject to this complaint ; but if certain cultural
precautions are taken, among them those which you
suggest, there is no reason why the difficulty should not
be got over. Most Peach-growers make a mistake in
keeping their trees too dry at the roots while the trees
are dormant. Give your tree a good soaking of weak
manure-water at once, and again at intervals of three
weeks or so through the winter and spring. Keep your
trees as cool as possible, with plenty of air on in favourable
weather all through the winter. Fertilise the blossom
at midday on fine days with the stronger pollen of other
varieties in bloom at the same time. Give the tree a
top-dressing of the following compost, 4 inches deep,
after exposing the surface roots first : To one barrow-
load of fibrous loam add half a gallon of bone-meal, the
same of kainit, a gallon of brick-ends, broken small, the
same of old mortar rubble, also broken small, and a gallon
of lime. Mix well together and tread firmly down when
applying.

HOW TO PLANT A VINE (IF. ./. JV.).— Any time next
month will be a good time to plant your Vine. The size
of your border should he 8 feet by 4 feet, by 3 feet deep.
A border of this size will be large enough for the first three
years, after which time i feet should be added to its width
and length. For drainage you must lay down all over
the bottom of the border a layer of broken brick-ends
to the depth of 5 inches. A drain (3-inch) must also be
laid down at the bottom side of the border for its whole
length and carried out to an outlet, where a fall of at
least 5 inches can be secured, for surplus water to pass
away from the border (a slight tall must be given to the
bottom of the border towards the drain). Place turves
of fibrous loam, grass side downwards (with the grass
cut off), over the drainage close together and tread hard
doivn. On the fop of this fill the border with the following
soil compost : To one barrow-load of turfy fibrous loam
add a gallon of half-inch bones, one quart of bone-meal,
one peck of brick-ends, broken small, the same quantity
of old mortar rubble, also broken small, and one peck
of lime. Mix well together before placing it in the border.
In planting, turn the Vine out of its pot, shake away the
soil from among its roots, cut off about an inch of the
tip end of the roots, spread out the roots evenly about
ten inches below the surface of the border, and cover over
with soil, pressing it down firmly. Plant on a dry day,
and the soil should be fairly dry at planting-time. Water
the roots as soon as planting is finished, and then cover
over the surface of the border with straw to the depth
of 5 inches. Leave the straw in until the last week in
March ; then remove it and replace with a top-dressing
of well-decayed manure. 4 inches deep. After planting,
ctit the young Vine ba^k to within three buds of its base.
Get a copy of "Fruit Growing for Beginners," price
Is. 3d. post free from our PubUshing Department.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

INJURY TO CELERY (B. L. B.).— The Celery is attacked
by the ftmgus Septoria Petroselini Apii,and very badly.
It is now too late to do much in the way of checking it,
except to remove the alfected foliage as completely
as possible (no good can come from allowing it to remain).
The disease is often carried in the seed, and we recom-
mend the spraying of the young plants from early in
June, or even in mid-May, onwards with Bordeaux
mixture as a preventive measure.

MISCELLANEOUS.

CLIMBING ROSES TO GROW FREELY (F. fT.).— Climb-
incc Caroline Testout would be a sood piuk variety, and
Heine Olga de Wurtemburs a good red.

VIOLETS AND RED SPIDER {Constant Reader).—
Tlie Violet leaves are badly attacked by red spider. The
plants are probably rather dry at the root, and spraying
with water, so Ions as the under side of the leaves is
sprayed, will do much to rid the plants of the insects.
Spraying with potassium sulphide, loz. to three gallons of
water, is also a useful measure.

NAMES OF PLANTS. — Be /-/.-s Aire.— Hae man thus Baurii.

Rushetts. — 1, Abelia grandiflora ; 2, Psoralea bitu-

minosa ; 3, Lactuca chondrilliflora ; 4, Helichrysum

serotiuum. P. C. — 1, Chrysanthemum segetum ; 2,

Lychnis coronaria ; 3, Tradescantia crassifoha. M. TV. G.

— 1, Centaurea Cineraria ; 2, Spiraea lindleyana ; 3. Dactylis
glomerata variegata probably, but cannot tell without
flowers.

MAMES OF FRUIT.— ^.fl. 5.— 10, 14 and 15, Blenheim
Orange; 11, Tower of Glamis ; 12, Round Winter Non-
such ; 13, Alfriston ; 15, Sandringham , 17, Pearson's
Plate ; IS, Brandy Apple ; 20. Wealthy ; 21, Stamford

Pippin; 22, Gloria Mundi. T.J.C. — Beurr6 d'Anjou ;

season, November and December. Gosden. — 1, Norfolk

Beefins: 2, Wellington ; 3, Eibston Pippin ; 4, Bess Pool ;
5. Ashmead's Kernel ; 6 and 9. Annie Elizabeth ; 7, Colonel
Vaughan ; 8, Bramley's Seedling.

SOCI ETIES.

AUTUMN SHOW AT HERTFORD.

The twenty-second annual sliow of Clirysanthemums,
autumn flowers, fruit and vegetables under the auspices
of the Hertford Horticidtural Society was held in the
Corn Exchange and Market on November 5 and 6. The
opening ceremony was performed by Lady Longmore.
The society has established such a high standard of merit
at its previous shows that it is very difficult to maintain
it, and certainly more difficult to surpass ; but it is gratify-
ing to know that this year's show was well up to any
of its predecessors in point of excellence. The silver
cup given by Mr. R. W. Partridge of Hertingfordbury
Park for the best group of Chrysanthemums was won by
Mr. W. Stephenson, gardener to Mr. Ernest Pearson
of Brickendonbury, and as he has now won the trophy
three times, it becomes his own property. There were
some very fine blooms in his group, the chief of which
were Gilbert Drabble. Rose Bouquet, Mrs. R. Luxford^
Mrs. R. C. Pullen, Evelyn Mason, Marjory Lloyd, W.
Buckingham and Sylvia Slade. In the class for groups
of miscellaneous plants there were only two competitors,
although Mr. H. Smith, gardener to Mr. Brodie Henderson,
generously stood down to give other exhibitors a chance,
as he had won the first prize four years in succession.
The flist prize was taken by Mr. 0. Catling, gardener
to Mr. H. W. Clinton Baker of Bayfordbury, with a very
tasteful arrangement of Cattleyas, Begonia Gloire de
Lorraine, Bouvardias, Salvias, Crotons and Palms. Mr.
W. Stephenson, gardener to Mr. Ernest Pearson of
Brickendonbury, was second ; but, though he had some
good quality material, there was too much of it. The
class for twenty-four cut Chrysanthemum blooms was a
very strong one. Premier honours were taken by Mr.
A. Haynes, gardener to Mrs. Browning of Bramfleld
House, who has obtained first place in this class five times
during the last seven years. His chief blooms were Miss A. E.
Koope, a brilliant buttercup yellow (which secured him
the prize for the best bloom in tlie show), F. S. Vallis,
Hon. Mrs. Lopes, William Turner and Mrs. G. E. Whitty.
The show was admirably managed by the members of
the committee of the society, and the new secretary,
Mr. W. Reynolds, is to be congratulated upon the ready
manner in which he grasped his duties and performed
them so ably.

LIVERPOOL HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

This association may be justly proud of the thirty-fourth
autumn exhibition, for not only did it prove the most
extensive, at any rate, of recent years, but the quality was
distinctly above the average. The show was held in the
well-lighted Corn Exchange on the 12th and 13th inst.,
and the entries wei-e above the normal. The cut flowers still
occupy the premier position in popular favour, as was
clearly seen by the crowd that hovered roxmd the principal
class of thirty-six blooms, eighteen incurved and eighteen
Japanese, in' which last year's winner upheld his high
position, and so secures the coveted silver challenge vase
as liis own personal property. Four entries were made
and four prizes were awarded, as follows : Mr. C. Goves.
gardener to Sir Gilbert Grcenall. Bart. : Mr. G. Haigh,
gardener to Sir W. H. Tate, Bart. ; Mr. H. Osborne,

gardener to Thomas Woodsend, Esq. ; and Mr. John
George, gardener to Thomas Hinshaw, Esq, The first
prize set was well in advance in size, but the honour of
colour fell to the second prize lot. The principal flowrs
in the winning stand were : Incurved — G. F. Evans (which
secured the National Clirysanthemum Society's certificate
as the best bloom in this section of the show), Embleme
Poitevine, Godfrey's Eclipse, Doris Rayner, Pantia
Ralli, Mrs. P. Wiseman and others; Japanese — W.
Turner (which was awarded the National Chrysanthemum
Society's certificate as the best incurved in the exhibition),
W. Mease, F. S. Vallis, Robert Pulling, President Viger.
Mrs. G. Drabble, Mrs. A. E. Roope, ^Fred Green. Alice
Lemon and Francis JoUiffe. Other classes of these two
sections were well filled, the leading winners being, in
addition to those already named, Mr. J. Young, gardener
to W. E. Willink, Esq. ; Mr. J. Copple, gardener to
H. Belk, Esq., who won three prizes ; Mr. J. Williams,
gardener to C. J. Procter, Esq. ; and Miss Newsham.

Single Chrysanthemums found great favour, and un-
doubtedly would have held their own in any part of the
country. The most prominent exhibitors were : ftlr. P.
Cannce, gardener to G. Nicholson, Esq., and Mr. L.Thomson,
an enthusiastic amateur. The names of Mr. Caunce's
half-dozen were Mrs. William Street, Miss Annie Street,
Edith Pagram, Miss K. Wells, Ruby and Mrs. H. Herbert.
These were fully 6 inches in diameter, and lovely in colour.

Turning to the plants, which to many are more delightful
than the giants on the boards, for Liverpool growers are
noted for their success in trained plants, iVL-. W. Wilson,
gardener to W. Cunningham, Esq., and Mr. T. Hitchman.
gardener to Arthur Earle, Esq., are past-masters in this
line. Miss Annie Shaw, a single-flowered variety, and
William, both staged by Mr. Wilson, were wonderful
creations. Mr. F. C. Keightley. gardener to Mrs. Duii<-;ui,
is an excellent grower of the more natural grown or staUi rl
plants. In the miscellaneous plants, Mr. Hurd, gardener to
L. G. Pilkington, Esq., and Mr, H, Osborne were to the fore
in the aristocratic domain of Orchid culture, the latter
staging a superb Cattleya Portia with eight spikes ami
thirty-seven blooms.

In the fruit section. Mr. T, Elsworthy, gardener to W. E.
Gladstone, Esq., had the finest collection, and Mr, J.
Wright, gardener to E. Lord. Esq., excelled in four bunches
of Grapes, while JMr. W. Wilson claimed two flrsts for pairs
of bunches, and Mr. W. H. Faulkner, gardener to A. P,
Eccles, Esq., was first in one class. Messrs. John Lee, J.
Bott. F. C. Keightley, J. Macfarlane and W. Mackerall
divided the prizes in the Apple and Pear classes.

The trade exhibits deserve more than a passing notice ;
but space is the only excuse for this brief reference. Gold
medals were awarded to Messrs. Stuart Low and Co.,
Messrs, Fishlock Brothers and Messrs. ManscUand Hatcher.
The exhibits may be briefly summarised as follows : Messrs.
Mansell and Hatcher, the Liverpool Orchid Company,
J. Le Doux, Esq., and Messrs. Stuart Low and Co.,
Orchids ; Messrs. Fishlock Brothers, floral designs ;
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Messrs. Young and Co., and
Mr. C. A. Young, Carnations ; Messrs. R. P. Ker and Son,
Cyclamen; Messrs. W. Wells and Co., Messrs. Dicksons,
Messrs. Clibrans and Messrs. W. Rowlands and Co.,
Chrysanthemums ; Mr. H. Middlehurst, vegetables ;
and Messrs. Thomas Davies and Co., winter-flowering
Heaths, filr. A. Calderbank received a certiflcate of merit
for single Chrysanthemum Dr. Hodgson, and Messrs.
Stuart Low and Co. for Carnation Gorgeous.

The committee deserve every credit for their efforts to
please both the exhibitor and visitor.

BOURNEMOUTH GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION.

On Tuesday, November 18, a very able and mteresting
lecture was given by Mr. G. H. Heath of Glenfallock
Gardens on " Zonal Pelargoniums for Summer and Winter
Flowering." Mr. Heath grows these plants remarkably
well, and has won the principal prize for them in the classes
at the Bournemouth shows for eiglit years consecutively
in very keen competition. He recommends cultivators
to propagate cuttings for summer flowering in July and
for winter flowering in August, As a general compost
he advises leaf -soil one part, turfy loam three parts,
with a small quantity of bone-meal and a sprinkling of
old lime. Firm potting was essential to success. When
grown for exhibition, the plants should be topped soon
after they were first potted, and again when finally potted.
A small quantity of sulphate of atumonia intensified the
colour of the flowers. Nitrogen caused the leaves to
grow very large, but did not induce flowers to form.
He relied on potash and phosphates. Many questions
were asked and ably answered, the discussion being free
and instructive.

In the *' Points " Competition Mr. Heath had three flue
vases of single- flowered Zonals, namely, Phyllis, Princess
of Wales and Sir T. Hanbury. Mr. Smith, gardener to
the Dowager Lady de Tablcy, staged Cypripediums ;
and Mr. Pearce, gardener to Sirs. Ormond, Crotons,
Ferns, and a fine Pandanus Veitchii. Messrs. George
Bunyard and Co., Limited, Maidstone, sent twenty-four
dishes of beautiful Apples. The following were the varieties :
Lane's Prince Albert, Bramley's Seedling, Gascoyne's
Scarlet Seedling, Hambling's Seedling, Newton Wonder,
Norfolk Beauty, Lord Derby, Blenheim Orange, Allington
Pippin, King of the Pippins, Mere du JMenage, Sanspareil,
Cox's Orange Pippin, .Mother, Bismarck, King Edward VII.,
Tower of Glamis, Waltham Abbey Seedling, Peasgood's
Nonsuch, Baumann's Red Reinette, Alfriston, lloyal
Jubilee, King of Tompkins' County, and Stirling Castle.
At the close of the lecture the Apples were sold to the
members, the money being given to the Iloyal Gardeners'
Orphan Fund. Messrs. Bunyard, the lecturer, and Mr.
Garner, who presided, were accorded hearty votes of
thanks

j^fey-.

i><."^^-^'-

GARDEN.

No. 2194.— Vol. LXXVII.

December 6, 1913.

CONTENTS.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

NOTKS OF TllK WKKK «05
C'ORRESPONDENCF.

ttcutiana vcrua . . OUti
Rose Mmc. Abel

ClKitenay . . . . 6117
Early Peas in pots

and boxes . . . . (luT
Th'- roek garden in
autumn and

winter 607

Forthcoming events.. 607
Gardexino .\crostics 607
llocK Aso Water Gabden
The designing, con-
s t r n c 1 1 o n and
planting of rock
gardens . . . . 607
Flower Garden
The naming o t"

Tulips 608

A *Usease of Nar-
cissus bulbs . . 609
Frhit Garden
Hints on plantini:
Peaches and Nec-
tarine.- 609

G.\ItDESS OF TO-DaV

Chatsworth .. .. 610

t'OLOUllED PUTK

The Leptospermums 612

Abutilon Boule d e
Neigc 612

Gardeniso for Beoikners
Lilies for outdoor
borders .. .. 613
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 614

For Northern gar-
dens 614

Rose Gardes
In a Hampshire gar-
den 615

Nursery Notes
Messrs. William .■\rtin-
dale and J^on . . 615

ANSWERS TO CORRE-
SPONDENTS

Flower garden . . 616
Greenhouse . . 616

Trees and shrubs . . 616

ILLUSTRATIONS.

• Aster Perle Rose 606

Sir. F. Jennings, the head-gardener at Ciiat^worth . . 607
The designing, construction and planting of roek

gardens 608

A diseased DaflodU bulb 608

Chatsworth 610

The conservatory at Chatsworth 611

A view In the gardens at Chatswortli 611

The Leptospermums Coloured plate

The white-flowered Abutilon Buule de Neigi' . . . . 612

Lilies for outdoor borders 613

Viola-beds at Messrs. Artindale's Nurseries . . . . 616

KDITORIAL NOTICBS.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes plioto/fraph^. artistes tind notes,
but he triU not be responsible for their safe return. AU
reasonable care, however, u-ill be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he wilt endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

A.< reijards pholograplis, if payment be desired, tlie Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
ijrapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publicatioti in The Garden will alone
he recognised as acceptance.

Offices

20, Tavi.'-tock ijtreet. Covent Garden, W.C.

Official Guide at Kew. — .\s wc aimounced
some time ago, an official guide to conduct parties
of visitors round the famous gardens at Kew
was appointed. The charges for the services
rendered by the guide have now been reduced
from 2s. 6d. to 6d. each person in the morning,
and from is. to 3d. during the afternoon. Full
particulars concerning the guide can be obtained
on apphration to the Director, Royal Gardens,
Kew.

The Flagstaff at Kew.— The wood of the
Douglas spar has decayed so much during the
last few years that it has been foimd necessary
to take it down for repairs. This was safely
accomplished on Monday, November 24. The
flagstaff, which is a splendid example of the Douglas
Fir, Pseudotsuga Douglasii, was presented to the
gardens by Mr. Edward Stamp in 1861, It was
obtained from British Columbia. The pole is
159 feet high and 20 inches in diameter.

Banding Laburnums. — Laburnums have a
habit ')! spliltiiig at the lowest fork in the tree.
Where signs of this are seen, the tree should have
an iron band placed roimd it just below the fork.
The two ends of the band should be turned back
to a right angle, each projecting end having a
hole pierced through it, one of which should be
square. Through these a bolt with a square
shoulder and fitted with a thread and nut should
be thrust, and the nut should then be screwed up
till the band clasps the trunk firmly. Give the
band two coats of olive green paint.

Pruning Gooseberry and Currant Bushes. —

In many parts of the country bulltiiicht-s and
tits are very destructive to the buds of Goose-
berries and Red and White Currants, during the
winter and early Opting. If, after the pruning is
done, tlie bushes are given a good sjTinging of
petroleum emulsion to make the buds distasteful,
the work may be done now with safety and thus
save time in the spring.

Pruning Large Trees. — Where cutting or
pruning is required among large trees, the work
should not be delayed, for it may be noticed that
the sap of many of them, particularly those with
large leaves, such as Horse Chestnut, Walnuts
and Sycamores, commences to flow early in the New
Year. Any cutting that is required to members
of the conifer family should also be done now,
and not left till the spring.

Wart Disease of Potatoes in Ayrshir^j^— The

Board of Agriculture and Fisheries desire to inform,
all Potato growers and dealers that in consequence
of an outbreak of wart disease in Potatoes in North
.AvTshire they have passed an Order prohibiting
the introduction of Potatoes from that district
into England and Wales. .All persons who have
already received seed Potatoes from that district
should carefuUv examine the tubers, and if any

sign of disease is apparent, the Board shoiUd be
informed. Dealers and growers are reminded that
it is illegal to plant or sell for planting any Potatoes
attacked by this disease, under a penalty of ten
pounds.

Rose Hedges. — These are suitable for almost
ain- part of the garden where a hedge or screen
is wanted, but they are specially adapted for
enclosing or dividing the Rose garden. At least
four classes of Roses are suitable for this purpose,
viz.. Chinas, Austrian Briars, rugosas and Penzance
Briars. For a dwarf hedge the Chinas, especially
the Old Blush or Monthly Rose, Mme. Bosanquet,
Fellenberg and Laurette Messimy, are suitable.
For hedges of moderate height the .\ustrian Copper
and Austrian Yellow are good ; while the
varieties of Rosa rugosa and of the Penzance
Briar will be foimd the most suitable for taller
hedges. In addition to their flowers, the rugosas
and the Briars have their decorative value enhanced
by their bright red heps.

The Winter Jessamine. — The mild weather

this year has been very favourable for the
development of the flowers on this delightful
climber. Flowering in midwinter, the blooms
are liable to damage by frost, yet Jasminum
nudicaule is worth a place in every garden, on a
fence or wall, where it is able to make such a pleasing
display with its thousands of bright yellow blossoms,
as is the case this year. The aspect of the fence
or wall against which the Winter Jessamine is
planted appears to make no difference to the
free-flowering qualities of the plant. The specimen
which suggested this note is on a west wall. The
sprays are delightful to cut for indoor decoration,
being particularly effective arranged with sprays
of Ivy in small vases on the dining-room table.
A Good Ash Tree for the Lawn. — Fraxinus

Mariesii is a very suitable tree for planting as a
lawn specimen, for it is of considerable decorative
merit and rare. It belongs to the group of the
genus which is characterised by showy flowers,
and is closely related to the Manna Ash, F. Omus,
a European species which is fairly common in the
British Isles. F. Mariesii is a native of China,
and was discovered by Maries in the Lushan
Moiuitains near Kiukiang. He sent seeds to
Messrs. Veitch in 1879, and the first plant flowered
in the Coombe Wood Nurserv* in 1882. It grows
into a small, rotmd-headed tree with purplish
branchlets. The pinnate leaves are made up of
five oval, acimiinate or acute leaflets, which are
up to 3 inches in length, but show some consider-
able variation in size. The creamy white flowers
appear in large, upright panicles during Jime or
early July, and are succeeded by the familiar
winged seeds peculiar to the Ash. In this case
they are purplish in colour. Like other Ashes,
it succeeds best in good, loamy soil of a moist,
yet well-drained character. Growth is rather
slow, and for that reason it is well fitted for a
position where space is somewhat restricteil.

606

THE GARDEN.

[December 6, 191 3

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
' expressed by correspondents.)

known even a young plant to be killed. Tlie soil here j mum shows. Perhaps some of our expert f;rowers

Pears Flowering at the End of November.—

At the present time there are three Pear trees
{variety, Beurre de Amanlis) in full blossom here,
which shows the wonderfully mild autumn we have
■experienced. I enclose a photograph of one of
the trees, also a branch of the blossom. —
D. Watt, Vice-regal Lodge Gardens, Dublin.
[Unfortunately, the photograph was not quite
sharp enough for reproduction. — Ed.]

Perennial Aster Perle Rose.— In .general
appearance this variety resembles the blue Italian
Starwort (Aster Amellus bessara-
bicus), but the flowers are of a
beautiful rosy pink colour. It is
unquestionably a worthy subject
for the rock garden in autumn,
although it appears to be very
little known, for I have looked
in vain for a mention of it in
numerous catalogues. The illus-
tration depicts this variety as
seen in October last in a shady
corner of the rock garden at
Copped Hall, Epping. Here it is
used with good effect under the
shade of trees and in association
with hardy Ferns, where few other
flowering plants could be expected
(o thrive. — C. Q.

Gentiana verna. — Mr. Malby's
note, page 54£, issue Novem-
ber I, was of particular in-
terest to me, for the value of glass
covering for Gentiana verna was
proved here last winter, a much
better display of flowers being
produced on protected plants than
on those left unprotected. Mr.
Arnott's method of " mulching "
with small stones or similar material
has been found of great advantage,
especially in cold and low-lying
districts. Such treatment, given to
several of the weaker alpines here,
has produced good results. For
myself I feel sure that, provided
with a fairly porous compost, a
sunny position and protection from
winter rains, G. verna will give but
little more trouble than its more
robust companion G. acaulis. In
addition to G. verna, we make it
a rule to protect several of the
choicer alpines which are at all
weakly by a glass covering, and.
in all cases it has proved beneficial
Serlbv Gardens, York. -'"; ":

is a deep black loam, with good drainage, which
seems to suit them very well. Young plants from
3 feet to 8 feet will put on 2 feet of growth in a
season. They also seem well adapted to plant hi a
windy situation; at least, we have never had one
blown over in this wind-swept district. — Galawa.
Dahlias at Chrysanthemum Shows. — After

twenty-five years' experience serving on councils
and committees of horticultural societies, I quite
realise the difficulties that beset many such coimcils
in providing classes that will be an additional
attraction to cultivators and the public. Orchids,
Carnations, Zonal Pelargoniums and winter-
flowering Begonias find a place in the schedules
of the majority of shows, in addition, of course,

ASTER ROSE PERLE IN THE GARDENS AT COPPED H.»iLL, EPPING.

H. Turner,

to the Chrysanthemums, fruits and vegetables. The
last week in October and the first week in November
Cordyline australis. — Referring to a note on page I is rather late in the season for staging Dahlias, but
570 of your issue of The Garde.n for November 15 there have been thousands of fine flowers as late

this autumn, and I feel sure that if classes are
provided for these flowers in futiure years, the latter

on the above Club Palm, it may interest
" T. C. F. M." to know that this plant succeeds
remarkably well in the open garden in the South-
West of Scotland ; in fact, we look upon this as
the hardiest of the many tender plants growing
in the open here. There are plants in all sizes,
from a two year old seedling to the parent plant
over twenty feet high. The older plants receive
no protection during the winter, and on various
occasions they have been exposed to 18° and 20'

will be seen well staged. Cultivators will find a
means of protecting their blooms in adverse weather.
To begin with, societies might provide an open
class for a display of Dahlias in a given space ;
other open classes may be listed for the Cactus, single
and Pompon sections. The local classes must
also be remembered. I think the inclusion of
Dahlias would prove a great attraction and win

will give their opinion. — George Garner.

Disbudded v. Undisbudded Roses.— What a
difference there is m blooms of nearly all Roses
that are the result of disbudding directly the buds
are large enough to handle, compared with the
flowers of the same variety from plants that are
allowed to develop all their buds into blooms
in clusters. Flowers from the latter method
are often not discernible as being typical of certain
sorts. For instance, note the difference in blooms
of Edward Mawley, Mrs. Comwallis-West, Mrs.
E. Powell, or Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau. In
size of petal, richness of colour, or general form
there is no comparison. For purely garden decora-
tion the undisbudded plants may be interesting
as giving a mass of flower, but
where Roses are prized for cutting
and the individual merits of the
different varieties are to be main-
tained, then disbudding is an
advantage. I do not mean to
reduce the number of shoots upon
a plant to obtain one or two huge
blooms for exhibition, but I prefer
to allow all shoots to grow and
confine the buds to one on each
shoot. By this method stouter,
stiff shoots are obtained, with a
representative bloom of each variety
well supported with foliage, which
for vase decoration plays an impor-
tant part, as no other foliage
tends to show off Rose blooms so
well as their own. — E. M.

Culinary and Dessert Apples
lor Suburban Gardens. — In choos-
ing varieties of Apples, or, indeed,
any other fruits, one of the chief
objects should be to secure those
varieties which will prolong the
season. In large gardens this is
usually so ordered, though now
and again one comes across an
establishment where the succes-
sional arrangement might with
advantage be improved upon. But
I write for the smaller garden, of
one to three acres, say, of which
there ar^ an ever-increasing num-
ber springing up on the outskirts
of this and every other city. The
methods of preparing the positions
and planting the trees are so fre-
quently touched upon by authori-
tative writers that I pass on at
once to enumerate a few reliable
sorts for the twofold purposes, culi-
nary and dessert. Early Victoria,
Potts' Seedling, Stirling Castle,
Warner's King and Bramley's Seedlmg will carry
the kitchen supply in the order given to Christmas,
after which Beauty of Kent and Lane's Prince
Albert would make provision until the end of
March — certainly a very satisfactory period for
such an acreage of ground. For a supply of
dessert or table fruits extending over a similar
period, we have found the following highly service-
able : Beauty of Bath or Irish Peach, James
Grieve, Cox's Orange Pippm, and Lord Hindlip
or King's Acre Pippin. It will be found much
more advantageous to grow several trees of a
limited number of varieties than a host of sorts
all ripening one upon the other. — C. Turner,

of frost (ground temperature), but I ha\-e never 1 a lot of extra support for our many Chrysantlie- ; Ken View Garden, Highgale, N.

December 6, 1913.]

TTTE GARDEN.

607

Rose Mme. Abel Chatenay.— For several years
I have had a very strong liking for this Rose.
.\s a town garden variety it is a great success.
It possesses so many good points. In my garden
it has continued to flower since last June, and now
bears clean buds. While some Roses near it
are mildev/ed, this one is free. The coloiu' is so
very pleasing and effective when the blooms are
arranged in baskets or vases. Quite small buds,
if cut and placed in water in vases in the dwelling-
house, open fully, retain their colour and remain
fresh for nearly a week. All who grow tliis
variety appreciate its many good points. Those
who do not possess any plants should add several
to their collection this autumn. — Avon.

Early Peas in Pots and Boxes. — .\ sowmg of

early Peas made now m turf and placed on a shelf
near the glass will be just right for potting up in the
New Year in the Chrysanthemum pots. Suitable
varieties are numerous, but we find that Sutton's
Excelsior and World's Record surpass anything
in Peas we have ever tried. Both finish with full
pods. The former is dwarf and the latter medium
m height, and both suit various houses. World's
Record is also suitable for borders and raised beds.
Our soil being very heavy, we pass it through a
coarse sieve, mix some approved fertiliser with it,
crock the pots in the usual way, and three parts
fill them with the soil and firm down. Place
the turf and Peas on this, stake them with a short
stick, and place them in a cool house near the
glass. As the days lengthen they will grow faster,
and need a house to themselves if a quantity is
required. Repeat the sowing every fourteen days
for a continual supply. Continue potting as above.
Both the sowings and pots have given as good
results as those grown outside, and the seeds
germinated without a break in a house 30 yards
long. — T. G. J., Shaftesbury, Dorset.

The Rock Garden in Autumn and Winter.—
.\t all times of the year the ruck garden can
be made to possess some charm and interest,
although I must admit that in late summer,
autumn and winter the beauty is somewhat
limited as far as flowering plants are concerned.
Nevertheless, much can be done to increase
the attractiveness at that time, when flowers
are not so plentiful, by the more liberal
use of many of those plants with ornamental
foliage. The beautiful silvery appearance of
many of the Achilleas, Ageratums, Artemisias
and similar plants, with the beautiful tints obtained
from many of the Sedums and Sempervivums,
which these plants give us from late summer onwards,
from beautiful crimson, pink, yellow, and many
shades of greens, all blend in harmony with their
surroundings, whatever they may be. Yellow
is perhaps a limited colour in foliage, although
there are a few yellow-foliaged varieties of plants,
such as the golden Sagina, the yellow variegated
-Arabis, the golden variety of Sedum acre and a
few others, which are worthy of a place. By using
such plants more freely than is generally the case
for the value of their foliage, we may greatly assist
to link together with touches of beauty one season
of flower to another. — F. Preston.

GARDENING ACROSTICS.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.

December 8. — United Horticultural Provident
;uid Benefi; Society's Committee Meeting.

December 10. — East Anglian Horticultural Club's
Meeting. North of England Horticultural Society's
Meeting and Lecture at Leeds. National Chry-
santhemum Society's Exhibition at Essex Hall,
Strand. Conference in the evening.

4 S announced in our issue for last week, we

/% are publishing eight gardening acrostics,

/ % to be divided into two sets of lour

A"~"^ each. Each light correctly guessed

* ^ will comit one, and also each " first "

and each " last." Thus, supposing

the whole is China (firsts), .^ster (lasts), the

full marks will be seven — one for China, one

for .\stei-, and one for each of the five

lujhts C . . . A, H . . . S, I . . . T, N . . . E

and A . . . R. Hence, suppose a competitor

got everything right but the light I ... T, he

would comit six, and it would not matter if he

attempted to solve that particular light or not.

Those entering for the acrostics must observe
the following conditions ;

(i) Solutions must be addressed to The Editor
at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden,
W.C, and bear the word " Acrostic " in
the top left-hand comer of the envelope.
{3) If a nom de plume is used, competitors must
at the same time enclose their own name
and address, not, of course, for publication.

.MK. F. JENNINGS, THE HEAD-GARDENER
AT CHATSWORTH. {See page 610.)

(3) S<:lutions must reach the Editor within a

week of the date of issue in which the
acrostic appears. Thus, solutions of
Acrostic No. i published in The Garden
to-day must arrive at the of&ce before
or by the first post on December 13.

(4) A list of those who have sent in solutions,

with the number of marks that each one
has obtained, will be published in the next
issue. Thus, that of those who compete in
,\crostic No. I will appear in the issue
dated December 20.

(5) We propose to divide the series ot eight

into two of four each, and to award two
prizes at the end of the fourth, and two
more at the end of the eighth and last.
The first prize in each case will be two
guineas, or books of that value, and the
second, one guinea. In order to give as
many as possible a chance of a prize, the
winner or winners of the first prize in the
first four will be penalised twelve points,
and, similarly, the winner or winners of
the second, eight points if they enter lor
the second four.

(6) In case of any dispute, the Editor's derision

must be accepted as final.

(7) No solution can be accepted as correct

unless it is the one that the framer of the
acrostic has sent us as his solution, and
which we shall publish in due course. It
is impossible for it to be otherwise, as it
would lead to much confusion, and it would
place upon us a responsibility which we
could not assume.

(8) In the event of two or more competitors

obtaining an equal number of marks for
first prize, the first and second prizes will
be added together and divided among them.

UOURLH ACROSTIC No. 1.

Firsts — .\ Vine.

Lasts — A most useful part of my "' firsts."

1. 60 " 3 inch."

2. A vegetable— purple when eaten in ancient

Rome ; green or blanched when consumed
in modern London.

3. An almost hardy bulb with a flower not unlike

what a blue Freesia might be.

4. The author of a beautiful gardening book.

" Nothing approaches it for instructive-
ness in herbaceous plants till we get to
Robinson's ' English Flower Garden.' "

5. Our greatest and oldest living botanist.

6. A Georgian Tulip. One of the best doers of

all the large-flowered, brilliant-hued species.

7. A dainty pea of Tusser's day.

Solutions of the above must be sent so as to reach
the Editor at 20, Tavistock Streets Covent Garden'
London, W.C, not later than the first post on
Saturday, December 13. Mark the envelope
"Acrostic " in the Inp left-hand corner.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

THE DESIGNING, CONSTRUCTION
AND PLANTING OF ROCK GARDEN^'.

{Continued from page 596.)

A THIRD site that one is sometimes called
on to consider is a dry hollow in a hill-
side. Earth, gravel or other material
has been removed for use elsewhere,
and left more or less abrupt banks ; it
is a veritable sun-trap, and sheltered
withal. The introduction of water may, or may not,
be out of the question, and if it is introduced will
somewhat effect a modification in the design.
Here we will consider it without water, as it may
be convenient at a later stage to point out how the
scheme should be altered to admit of its use. This
is a spot where the sun-loving alpines will revel,
while, by judicious arrangement, sufficient shady
positions can be introduced to permit of the success-
ful culture of many of those that prefer cooler
conditions. The best method of dealing with this
site will be, I think, to treat it as a natural cliff
formation, from which broken boulders and crum-
bling fragments have become detached and fallen
in all directions. I have already described the
processes by which in Nature the crevices between
these fallen masses become filled with particles of
earth that are washed down from above, and by
the growth and decay of the lower vegetable forms,
thus rendering them suitable receptacles for the
culture of alpine plants, which, indeed, find their
natural homes prepared by the same processes.
Paths and steps will be required, but should be as
rudimentary as is consistent with comfortable

()08

THE GARDEN.

[December 6, 1913.

FLOWER GARDEN.

inc. l-Nrt

H

growers
varieties

DO-m-D I int 3HOW3
COH TOUR OF SJ-^Tlon

SKETCH V. SHOWING SF.CTIONAL TREATMENT OF SITE,

transit ; in some cases tliey may be barely possible,
althongh every foothold should be made absolutely
secure. Sketch V shows in section the treatment
of this site.

If time and space permitted, I could go on multi-
plying descriptions of varying sites ; but there must
be an end to all things, and I think I have said
enough to illustrate the fact that every position
demands separate consideration, and, generally
speaking, possesses in itself a potential design all
its own. There are, however, certain sites much
more suitable than others, and some, indeed, that
should be avoided. If the intention (and I want
to lay particular stress on this distinction) be purely
for the cultivation of a collection of alpines, then
the question of design hardly enters into the matter.
If the rock is to be used primarily for the production
of picturesque effects, then it should be used in
positions that offer some natural advantages and
are removed somewhat from the more formal
portions of the garden.

There are some people who seem to think
that a successful rock garden can be made in
the comer formed by two walls in the kitchen
garden ; others, that an admirably suitable
place is under trees " where nothing else will
grow, you know " ; and yet others who imagine
that by making a little hole in an odd comer,
filling it with water and surrounding it with frag-
ments of stone selected from the debris of some
decayed building, they are creating a rock garden.
Broadly speaking, the most favourable positions
are light, airy, open spots on sloping ground. The
only trees permissible are such as Abies, Pines,
and others that associate naturally with bold
masses of rock, and these only when the contour
is rugged and weather-beaten in appearance and
when they are some distance removed from the
iK^tn.i] positions in which it is desired to cultivate
alpine plants. Silver Birches are permissible, and,
where the work is hold and free enough in character,
even desirable ; but they must be in such positions
that they will not overshadow the other inhabitants
or send their fibrous roots to rob their weaker
associates of sustenance.

Next week I hope to deal with the selection
and arrangement of the stone, two items that
are of considerable importance in the construction
ot ro 'li gardens.

Colchester. George Dillistone.

{Tn be continued.)

THE NAMING OF TULIPS.

OW eiu'ious SOUK' oi

oiu- old lovers and
growers of the Tulip
of fifty years ago
would be could they
read of a place where
had breaks " in some
amounting to 30 per
cent.," as Mr. G. W. Leak reports
of his collection at Wisbech on
page 574 of November 15 issue. In
those times, of course. Tulip lovers
desired the rectified or final stage
of the Tulip ; the self or breeder
stage was merely of value in the
promise that it gave of some future
break, of a fine feathered bloom or
a noble flamed flower. Now, the
desire would seem to be, in the case
of the Darwin, to keep to the pre-
f ent beautiful self shade. .■Xs to how
to keep them in the self stage or how to cause them
to break, no one knows. When growers were very
plentiful, say, fifty years ago down to twenty-
five years ago, all sorts of experi-
ments were made in the direction
of getting Tulips to break, with
little success. Some men could
break Tulips; others could not.
Again, in some years very few would
break; as Mr. Leak says, such a small
percentage as two per thousand
Another season almost all of one
variety might break. Last year I
had about a dozen bulbs of a trea-
sured breeder or self. Beauty of
Litchurch, lovely light lilac, and
from which I was trying to
work up a stock. At blooming,
however, every one of them broke
very badly, though I had not
had a break in the previous fifteen
years.

It must not be forgotten that
all Tulips will break, or, perhaps,
I had better say, are liable to
break, sooner or later. The self
or breeder condition of the bloom
is simply a stage; the rectification
will follow. We shall have good
breaks and bad breaks — some " only
fit to be thrown on the dustheap,"
as Mr. Leak says, others worthy
of admiration. Again, it is quite
likely there will be two kinds of
breaks, but time will show whether
there is any need to distinguish
between them, just as in the case
of our florist varieties some break
in a feathered state, some in a
flamed state, others in such a
muddled way and so indistinct as
to be considered worthless and,
consequently, are discarded. In like
manner other types of Tulip
varieties break.

However a Tulip breaks, it should
still be called by the same name,
presuming that it has already
been named in the self state.
Clara Butt is always Clara Butt,
whether in the self state or in the

rectified condition. It is still Clara Butt, whether
it is wearing its morning or its evening gown.
Again, in the rectified state you may have Krelage's
break or Leak's break. It is quite possible that we
may have two kinds of breaks. It will doubtless
be within the capability of the Tulip Society to
distinguish between them.

Reverting to the remarks made by Mr. Jacob
in yoiur issue of October 25 ; in the case of Sir Joseph
Paxton we had Mellor's break. Lea's strain and
Barlow's strain, and one also heard of the
Wakefield Paxton. All these mean that Mellor
had broken a first-rate Paxton, that Lea had
a first-rate Flamed Paxton, and that Barlow
had a celebrated Premier Flamed Paxton. Melkir
was residing in Wakefield ; hence the term
" Wakefield Paxton." Probably very little lies in the
distinction, each man doubtless proclaiming the
excellence of his strain. After a few years all these
questions of strauis quietened down, and Sir
Joseph Paxton would be described by just the
stage it happened to be shown in or, as one may
say, by the dress it was wearing at the time,
self or breeder, feathered or flamed. I have
" broken " Paxtons myself 111 recent years equal
to any of the "strains" of the earlier growers.
Though I have said Tulips will rectify or change,
it is also true th'^y are not constant in their markings.

A DISEASED DAFFODIL BULB. (See text.)

December 6, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

609

and in this department lies the principal charm
of Tulip culture. What we describe as Clara Butt
is a Tulip of a certain shape, a certain form, quite
distmct, and capable of being described and dis-
tinguished from everj- other Tulip. The mere
fact that to-day it is in a self state, and that ne.xt
year's bulb throws a bloom that is rectified,
striped or flamed, does not justify us in saying
the rectified type is a different variety; it is
merely a different condition of the same variety.

It is a practice of the Tulip Society not even
to allow two sister seedlings to be called by different
names unless they can be brought on the table
before the judges and shown to be distinct. The
difference must nut be accidental phases of growth,
such as one seedling being rat her dwarfed and another
\iTy tall ; the blooms themselves must be so dis-
tinguishable from each other that one would say
tliey were distinct. Why, then, should it be
desirable to have one variety called by different
names because in one case we have a self, in another
case we have the same thing rectified, a very de-
sirable break, a very worthy bloom, and in another
case the same variety broken badly and " worthy
of the dustheap " ? A careful grower discards
Ireely if need be, and by the process of selection
ubtauis the best strains which go to make up a good
collection. The Royal National Tulip Society
arc to co-operate with the Royal Horticultural
Society in their endeavour to cirrect Tulip names
when blooming-time comes.

Hale, Cheshire. Charles W. Needham.

A DISEASE OF NARCISSUS BULBS.

Thk following article by Mr. George .Massee,
I'.L.S., is reprinted from the Kcw Bulletin, No. 8,
11)13, by special permission of the Controller of
His Majesty's Stationery Office, These Bulletins,
wliich are published at frequent intervals, arc
useful to those interested in gardening, and can
lie obtained through any bookseller from Messrs.
Wyman and Sons, Fetter Lane, E,C., or direct
from His Majesty's Stationery Office, Westminster,
price 4d.

" .\bout three years ago a disease of an unusual
nature was met with on various kinds of Narcissus
bulbs. During the present season the disease
lias increased to such a serious extent that, accord-
ing to the statement of growers on a large scale,
entire plots of bulbs have been completely destroyed.
The injury is due to the presence of a parasitic
liingus called Fusarium bnlbigenum, Cooke and
Mass., first described in i88;, the host being given
as a Narcissus bulb. At that time it was not
recognised as a parasite.

As a rule the presence of the parasite is first
indicated by the appearance of small, yellowish
spots on the leaves. These spots gradually increase
in size, become brown and dry, and become more
or less covered with pale salmon-coloured specks,
which are at first more or less gelatinous, but soon
become dry and homy when exposed to the air.
These coloured patches are masses of Fusarium
spores, which are dispersed by various means and
infect neighbouring plants. The mycelium present
in the leaf can be traced passing downwards info
the bulb, where it grows vigorously and spreads
rapidly in the fleshy bulb-scales. During the
early stage of infection of the bulb, the tips of the
scales only are injured, as indicated by the brown
colour. The injury, however, gradually extends
to the base and enters the " cushion," whence
it spreads rapidly, and very soon the entire bulb
is of a uniform brown colour. When this stage is
reached, the fungus fonns delicate, whitish sheets

between the bulb-scales, and numerous chlamy-
dospores or resting-spores are produced on the
mycelium present in the substance of the scales.
These spores are globose, colourless, with a thick
cell-wall, and are produced at the tips of branches,
or occur in chains in the length of the mycelium.
They vary from lo — 14^ in diameter. The Fusa-
rium spores are borne in clusters at the tips of
short branches, and in the mass are tinged salmon
colour, but are colourless under the microscope.
They are three-septate, tips pointed and slightly
curved. In size they vary from 40 — 50 x 5 — 6fi.

When a bulb becomes brown, it soon commences
to decay, and its complete destruction is hastened
by the attacks of various kinds of saprophytic
fungi, Penicillium, &c., and by saprophytic eel-
worms, such as species of Rhabdites. When bulbs
decay in this manner before lifting, as frequently
happens, the soil becomes infected by the liberation
of the chlamydospores, which infect future crops.
The germinating chlamydospores emit one or two
short, slender branches, which bear a few short
chains of minute, colourless, elliptical secondary
spores, m'"asiiring about 3 x Zfj,. These minute
spores are the first to infect Narcissus leaves in
the spring, after which the disease is continued
throughout the season l)y means of tlie Inisarium
form of spore.

The young leaves of a Narcissus abmit an inch
long were infected with l''iisarium spores, and in
six days yellowish spots appeared at the points of
infection, and as the leaves continued to increase in
length, other diseased spots appeared lower down
the leaf, mycelium in all instances being present in
abundance in the tissues a week after the infection
period. It is highly probable that the first infec-
tion, by means of the minute secondary-spores
produced by the chlamydospores, occurs when the
leaves are quite young, and that the disease
gradually descends to the base of the leaf and into
the bulb by a series of subsequent infections lower
and lower down the leaf, due to independent
infections by spores washed from diseased patches
higher up the leaf. Chlamydospores are present
in abundance in the tissues of the leaves.

The continuance of this disease may be due to
two independent causes :

1, Slightly-diseased bulbs, containing the Fusa-
rium spores or chlamydospores. Such bulbs are
not readily detected when the injury is slight ; how-
ever, when cut in two the presence of disease is
readily indicated by the browning of the scales near
the neck of the bulb. It is very doubtful whether
soaking slightly-diseased bulbs in a fungicide would
kill the mycelium present. It certainly would not
kill thick-walled chlamydospores or resting-spores,

2, Infected soil. Whenever a crop of diseased
bulbs has occurred, it may be concluded with
certainty that the soil is infected, due to the decay
of bulbs before lifting, and to fallen diseased leaves,
both of which contain chlamydospores in their
tissues. So far as is known at present, the fungus
has only been met with on Narcissus bulbs, but
most probably in course of time it will extend its
ravages to other bulbous plants. Under the
circumstances, the safest course would be to avoid
planting bulbs for two or three years on land that
had produced a diseased crop. No kind of dressing
would be likely to destroy the chlamydospores
directly, but during the spring, when they are
germinating and producing secondary-spores, the
latter would be killed by a dressing of kainit, or
of sulphate of potash, lightly worked into the soil.

The disease is known in Holland, from where,
quite miintentionally, the disease may often be

reintroduced into this country by means of slightly-
infected bulbs.

Description of the Figures.— i. Section of
Narcissus bulb, showing early stage of disease.
Natural size. 2. Branched mycelium bearing
clusters of Fusarium spores, x 400. 3. Chlamy-
dospores or resting-spores. x 400. 4. Chlamydo-
spores germinating and producing secondary-
spores. X 400."

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

HINTS ON PLANTING PEACHES
AND NECTARINES.

THERE arc many warm positions on walls
in gardens where Peaches and Nec-
tarines will thrive and be fruitful if pro-
perly planted and judiciously managed
afterwards. The proper management
of these trees does not involve a
great deal more labour than is necessary in the
case of Pears, for instance, and they are well worth
the extra trouble.

Planting. — Trees with very strong young shoots
are not the best to plant, for if planted in a deep,
loose, rich soil, they may not bear fruits for several
years. I Imow of a case in point where the
trees did not bear for seven years after being
planted, notwithstanding all efforts to induce them
to do so by lifting, root-pruning and the with-
holding of manure. Those young trees possessing
rather small twigs which are wiry and short-
jointed and well studded with flower-buds arc the
right ones to plant. They are, really, in a fruit -
bearing state, and should be retained in it. To
this end they must be planted in a very firm
rooting medium. The soil should be broken up
to a depth of 30 inches. No manure must be
put in, and it should be made very firm again
prior to the planting of the trees. There is no
better time for dealing with the soil than while
it is in a really dry condition. It can then be
firmed, and when the roots are covered the finer
soil can be well placed around the smaller roots.
Rather than plant in a rich, loose soil, I would
place the roots on the surface of unbroken soil
and earth them over, as the trees would make
more satisfactory growth afterwards. South,
south-east and south-west aspects are the best
for Peaches and Nectarines. The south and south-
west are the best two to select. Keep the roots
near the surface covered with 3 inches or 4 inches
of soil, and the main stem 9 inches from the wall.
Any very strong, straight tap-roots may be cut
off ; but small ones should be bent forward and a
large slate placed under the whole of the roots,
as this will prevent them growing directly down-
wards at first.

Varieties to Grow. — Hale's Early, Royal George,
.\lexander. Crimson Galande, Dymond and
Noblesse. For growing on walls in the open air
select Hale's Early, Crimson Galande and Royal
George. The latter is subject to mildew in some
seasons, but if protected from cold winds in the
early stages of growth, mildew ivill not be trouble-
some, and the variety is such a grand one that all
amateur fruit-growers should possess it. Of
Nectarines grow the following : EIruge, Early
Rivers, Humboldt, Pineapple, Violette Hative
and Balgowan. For outside walls plant the
latter, Violette HStive and EIruge. Immediately
the trees are planted, put on a surface mulch of
half-rotted manure. Leave all tying up to be
done in the spring ; then the roots can settle firmly
in the soil. G. G,

(^io

The garden.

[December 6, 1913.

GARDENS OF TO - DAY.

CHATSWORTH.

CHATSWORTH, the Derbyshire seat
of His Grace the Duke of Devonshire,
which the King and Queen are next
week honouring with their presence,
has, on more than one occasion,
not inappropriately been termed the
Palace of the Peak. Situated as it is in the beautiful
undulating country of tlie Peak district, with the
River Derwent gaily swinging its way through the
broad acres that comprise the Park, Chatsworth
possesses more interest for those who study and
appreciate gardening than perhaps any other place
in the United Kingdom. Its historical associations
are too well kno^vn to need repetition at this juncture ;

rain in the district of the Peaks, we were able,
under the courteous guidance of Mr. Jennings,
the head-gardener, to see something of what are
undoubtedly the most noble, if not the most
pleasingly-designed, gardens in Great Britain.
We must, however, first mention that the
mansion and grounds are open to visitors
three days a week from May till August.
To many who have spent pleasant hours there
it will come, perhaps, as a surprise to know
that the pools in the famous Water Lily House
have been filled in and the house converted
into an orchard-house, and for protecting Chry-
santhemums in the autumn. A notable feature is
an avenue of closely pruned Tulip Trees that leads
to the main entrance, the green foliage of these
making a fine background for tall pyramids of
scarlet Pelargonium Viscount Kitchener. These

CHATSWORTH, WHERE Till; KING AND QUEEN ARE TO STAY NEXT WEEK.

but it may, perhaps, be necessary to remind the
younger generation of our readers that it was here
that Sir Joseph (then Mr.) Paxton exercised his
art of landscape gardening, and the general lay-out
of the gardens to-day is much as it was in his time.
The design for the Crystal Palace, of which so much
has been heard recently, was supposed to have
been suggested by the Lily House that he
designed at Chatsworth, and a comparison of the
architecture of the two certainly appears to lend
some colour to this theory.

We do not, however, propose to enter into
useless discussions as to the correctness or otherwise
of this supposition, nor to dwell at length on the
work of Paxton, but rather to give a necessarily
brief description of a few features of the gardens
and pleasure grounds as we saw them one day in
September. Although it rained as it can only

plants, which are giown in large tubs, are about
ten feet high, and create a really wonderful
and pleasing effect.

The Italian and French gardens at Chatsworth
are both good examples of their kind, the former
being planned on particularly bold lines. Here
Irish Yews stand like sentinels on guard, with large
beds filled with ornamental foliage and flowering
shrubs as companions, broad walks leading to other
and more remote parts of the gardens, branching
off in several directions. In the French Garden,
which is on a much smaller scale, the pillars sup-
porting the statuary are wreathed with Rambler
Roses, and the beds planted with white, purple,
violet and pale blue Violas, the whole being so
arranged as to provide a perfect harmony of quiet
colours. Leading from the French Garden to the
broad expanse of water beyond is the famous

Solomon's Walk, a broad pathway, skirting, as it
were, the large expanse of lawn that lies at the
south front of the mansion, the grass bank im-
mediately below the walk having beds cut in its
face to form a bold chain, with pendants at intervals
of about twenty yards. At the time of our visit
this chain was planted with yellow and white Violas,
and the pendants with those of violet and lavender
hues. To fill these and other beds no fewer than
20,000 Viola plants are required annually, these
being obtained by means of cuttings planted early
in the autumn.

Fountains, cascades and statues abound in the

pleasure grounds, while ornamental ponds, filled

with Water Lilies and other aquatics, meet the

visitor at almost every turn. The water is obtained

from the lake situated some 400 feet above the level

of the gardens and right on the side of the towering

hill, whence flows the wonderful cascade

shown in the illustration on page 611.

Then from the Wellington Rock, high

up on the cliff side, wa.ter tumbles over

jutting rocks to the pool below, thence

wending a more peaceful way to the

lake in the dell or natural garden near

by, where Bulrushes, hardy Ferns and

other native plants find a happy home.

Further up on the hillside, and stretch-
ing away from the mansion for a con-
siderable distance, is the Arboretum,
which includes many good and well-
grown trees. Among these are the three
Royal trees. One, an Oak, was planted
by the late Queen Victoria, then Princess
Victoria, in 1832. Planter and tree
would be about the same age ; the Oak
is still in its youth, but the planter has,
alas ! been called to the Great Beyond.
It is only by a comparison such as this
that we realise how fleeting is the life of
man. Another tree is a Spanish Chest-
nut, planted at the same time by the
Duchess of Kent ; and the third is a
Sycamore, planted eleven years later
by Prince Albert, who had then been
Prince Consort for two years. Bor-
dering the pathway that takes the
visitor through the Arborettmi is a
babbling stream of crystal water some
half a mile long, in which trout may
at times be seen disporting them-
selves. Rhododendrons and other suit-
able shrubs and low-growing trees
are effectively grouped by the margins
of the stream. This bountiful and
natural supply of water is of the
greatest value to Chatsworth, and in
the Temple of Venus, near where the rill loses
itself in the ground, the following descriptive
poem is carved in stone :

Won from the brow of yonder licadlons Hill,
Through grassy channels, see, thu sparkling rill
O'er the chafed pebbles, in its murmuring How
rihi'ds freshness on the thirsty vale below.
Quick'uina the ground till trees of every zone.
In Chatsworth's soil, and clime, forgot their own.

To the keen lover of plants the indoor gardens
at Chatsworth are almost as interesting as the
noble terraces and broad, carpet-like lawns that
form such a feature of the outdoor gardens.
Stretching up from the French Garden is the
Portland Walk, which is a sort of corridor with
glass roof and front. Here many interesting plants
find a congenial homo, among them being some
fine old specimens of Camellia reticulata. Fuchsias,
Acacias and other hard-woodid kinds. In the

1)ECKMBER B, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

THE CONSERVATORY AT CHATSWOKTH, PKcMAI

IHE LARGEST Ol ITS KIND IN" THIS COUNTRV

plant-houses near by, Begonia Gloire de Lorraine,
Scented-leaved Pelargoniums, Carnations, Helio-
tropes, Hydrangeas and Chrysantheinums are grown
in very large quantities, and at the time of our
visit these were in particularly food condition.
Special mention must be made of the Carnations,
which are the favourite flowers of Her Grace the
Duchess of Devonshire. Perpetual-flowering and
Malmaison kinds are grown by the thousand, and
we have never seen a finer lot of plants.

One of the principal features of
Chatsworth is, of course, the large
conservatory or winter garden, an
illustration of which is reproduced
above. This is probably the
largest of its kind in any private
establishment in this country,
and the broad gravel path that
runs through the centre is suffi-
ciently large to enable carriages
to be driven through with perfect
freedom. Owing to the character
of the plants in this house, the
temperature has, of necessity, to
be maintained much higher than
is usual in conservatories. At
each end of the house bold masses
of frockwork have been skilfully
arranged, with small pools nestling
at their bases, the latter forming
congenial homes for choice Water
Lilies, the Cape Pondweed and
many other kinds of aquatic
plants. The rockwork itself is
almost concealed by Ferns, Sela-
ginellas and other dwarf forms ol
plant-life. In the broad borders
on either side of the main path-
way such plants as Monster. 1
deliciosa, Musa Cavendishii (n
Banana that fruits splendidly here),
Poivrea coccinea (with racemes ol
small, bright scarlet flowers), Hedy-
chiums and many other unusual
kinds are grown in quantity ; hence

the visitor might well imaaine himself to be
in a semi-tropical country instead of in one of
the most beautiful counties of England.

The fruit-houses are, naturally, of a very exten-
sive character, and such kinds as Peaches, Figs,
Muscat Grapes and choice dessert Cherries are
very largely grown. We have seldom seen Peach
trees in better condition than those at Chatsworth,
and the Muscat Grape Vines were carrying very
heavy crops of fruit, which reflected the greatest

611

credit on those responsible
for their cultivation. In
one of the Peach-houses
we were interested to see
a very fine plant of the
Persimmon (Diospyros Kaki
Pashomarii) that was bear-
ing a very heavy crop
of its pale orange coloured
fruits. Unfortunately, owing
to the proximity of the fruit-
houses to the River Derwent,
it is no luicomraon occur-
rence for the stokeholes and
floors to be flooded. This
is, of course, a very severe
handicap in the production
of first-class fruit.

There are, of course,
many other interesting fea-
tures in the gardens at
Chatsworth, but lack of
space will not allow us to
deal with them here. Thi-
average visitor will find it
difiicult indeed to get a
full grasp of the noble
and beautiful effects that
abound so freely in these
gardens, which have,
through the kindness of the Duke of Devonshire,
come to be regarded more in the light of a national
asset than the private property of one of our oldest
English families.

There are many I'-ssoiis to learn at Chatsworth,
and the student of English gardening could,
with advantage, spend many days in this de-
lectable place, where garden and woodland
and water are successfully blended to make one
harmonious whole.

VIF.W IN THE GARDIiNS AT CHATSWORTH, WITH THE LARGE CASCADE IN THE

BACKGROUND.

612

THE GARDEN.

[December 6, 1913.

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATE 1482.

no doubt, be interesting. On the authority of
Captain A. A. Dorrien - Smith, this remarkable
variety originated on the sandhills a little north
of Christchurch, New Zealand, and was apparently
derived from the white-flowered forms which alone
occur in its immediate neighbourhood. It was
taken in hand by Messrs. Nairn and Sons, nursery-
men, Christchurch, and by 1908 a fair stock had
been obtained. Apart from the rich colour of its
blossoms, the leaves are also very deeply tinted.
This variety is stiffer in habit than the typical
L. scoparium, while another, of even more upright
growth, was shown at the same time and given
an award of merit. This was Chapniannii, whose

THE LEPTOSPERMUMS.

THE Leptospermums are a genus of
shrubs belonging to the Myrtle family,
natives of Australia and New Zealand.
Some members have been long grown
in gardens, where they are remarkable
for their great profusion of blossoms,
which, until the introduction of some of the newer
forms of Leptospermum scoparium, were in most
cases white, or nearly so. While the different
kinds must be. looked upon as
greenhouse or conservatory plants
over the greater part of this
country, they form handsome out-
door bushes in the favoured parts
of these islands, such as in the
South-West of England and the
corresponding portion of Scotland.
In parts of the Sister Isle, too,
they are equally at home, and
justly valued for their beauty
when in bloom.

The oldest and best - known
inembcr of the genus is Lepto-
spermum scoparium, which occurs
in great profusion in a wild state
both in Australia and New Zea-
land. One of its popular names
is Captain Cook's Tea Plant,
owing to the leaves having been
used for tea by that intrepid
navigator during his voyage round
the world. Another name by
which it is known in its New
Zealand home is Manuka, con-
cerning which the late Mr. John
Gould Veitch, in his " Traveller's
Notes," writes : " For many miles
we drove through a dense growth
of Manuka (Leptospermum scopa-
rium), described as the most
common plant in the Colony. It
covers hundreds of acres, ranging
from half a foot to 30 feet in
height, and is said to be very
effective from November till
January, when it flowers in grea-
profusion ; at other times the
acres of peculiar grey green are
apt to weary the eye." Of L.
scoparium the variety grandi-
florum has been known for over
a century. This has larger flowers
than the type, and they have, in
addition, a rosy tinge. It is not
much grown ; indeed, the extreme
variability to be found among the
different forms of L. scoparium,
as shown last year at the International Horticul-
tural Exhibition held at Chelsea, took a great
many by surprise.

At that time the variety NichoUii, of which a
coloured plate is given with this issue, made what
must be regarded as its first public appearance,
and from its distinct character and great beauty
it created quite a furore. Not only did it attract
the attention of the general public, but it was
.iwarded a hr?it-class certificate by the floral com-
mittee, and, furthermore, gained the cup for the [ that these three beautiful and distinct varieties
best new plant in the show. As it is such a real j were then shown by the Rev. .\. T. Boscawen,
good thing, some account of its early history will, 1 Long Rock, Cornwall.

THE WHITE FLOWERED ABUTILON BOULE DE NF.IGE.

flowers have not the richness of colouring of those
of NichoUii, but are more of a deep rose or rosy
red tint. It was discovered as an individual
plant in the South Island of New Zealand some
years before NichoUii was found. A third variety,
and an exceedingly graceful one, was shown at
Chelsea at the same time as the others. This was
Boscawenii, whose flowers are unusually large,
and white with a reddish centre. The unopened
buds are brightly coloured. It may be noted

Since L. s. NichoUii gained such high honours
it has been much sought after and now finds a
suitable home in a few favoured gardens. It is
said to come reasonably true from seed, and, as
with the other members of the genus, cuttings are
not at all difficult to root.

Of the other species of Leptospermums, perhaps
the best known is L. buUatum, a free-growing,
compact, little bush. Good flowering examples of
this may be grown in pots 5 inches or 6 inches in
diameter, and in this way thev form useful decora-
tive plants for even the small greenhouse. This
by no means exhausts the list, but the following
are very rarely met with : L. ericoides, L. flavescens,

L. Iffivigatum, L. myrtifoliuni, L.

pubescens and I., stellatum.

Propagation and Culture. — As

above mentioned, Leptospermums
are not at all difficult to increase
by means of cuttings. These
should be formed in early summer
of the half-ripened shoots, which,
if dibbled into pots of sandy
soil and placed in a close propa-
gating-case kept rather warmer
than the temperature in whicli
they have been grown, will soon
root. A mixture ;oi loam, peat
and sand wUl suit them well.
Potted off singly when sufficiently
rooted, they must be stopped
two or three times during their
earlier stages in order to ensure
a bushy habit of growth. Besides
cuttings, seeds often ripen, and
from these young plants can be
raised in quantity, as each
capsule contains, generally speak-
ing, a considerable number of
seeds. Established plants employed
for the decoration of the green-
house or conservatory should,
after flowering, have the shoots
shortened back if necessary, and
any old and exhausted wood
in the middle of the specimen
thinned out. If repotting is
needed, it must be done as soon
as the young shoots are about
half an inch in length. The com-
post of loam, peat and sand should
be fairly rough and pressed down
firmly. If the plant or plants do
not require repotting, an occasional
stimulant will be very beneficial dur-
ing tht growing season. Through-
out the summer the plants may be
stood out of doors, taking care
that they are well supplied with
water. H, P.

[The coloured plate was pre-
pared from a spray kindly sent us

by Mr. James Coey, Donard Nursery, Newcastle,

County Down. Ireland. — Ed.]

ABUTILON BOULE DE NEIGE.

Although an old variety, this is stiU one of the
best white Abutilons as a greenhouse climber. It
is seen to best advantage when trained tu roof
rafters or when tied loosely to greenhouse pillars.
Throughout winter it provides a succession of flowers,
borne gracefully on slender stems. The white petals
,ire delicately veined or netted, to which the golden
authersof cxpaadid fl' iwcrs form a pleasing contrast.

Stipp/ciiiciit to THE GARDEN, December 6ili. 191 3.

\

NEW FLOWERING SHRUB

" Leptospermum Nicholii."

Hudson & Kearns, Ktd.. Londun, S.E.

December 6, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

613

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

LILIES FOR OUTDOOR BORDERS.

IN all we have about sixty species of Liliums,
or l.ilje^;, cultivated in our gardens. Some
twelve to twenty of these will grow in the
soil one meets with in the borders of most
gardens, flowering freely in the broad,
extensive borders of a large country garden,
iir the narrow border of the town and suburban
garden. Lilies may be associated with herbaceous
.md other plants in the perennial or mixed borders,
while they will be found to thrive equally well
in the shrubbery border. A few groups planted
between the shrubs where space permits give added
interest to the border, and brighten it up consider-
:ibly when the Lilies are in flower. From these few
remarks it will be gathered that the beginner need
have no hesitation in taking up Lily culture. It will
be found a most interesting subject, both on account
■ if the different kiuds being so varied in habit, the
lolour and size of the flowers, and from the fact that
outside in the border a dozen kinds will provide a
succession of bloom from the end of May to October.
The most general method of increasing Lilies
IS by means of offsets, the bulbs with age dividing
up and producing several growths. These may be
carefully separated when the stems die down
in the autumn or winter when the weather is open.
Several Lilies, notably the Tiger Lily, produce
bulbils in the axils of the leaves. These, if care-
fully removetl when mature and placed ii- boxes

I. THE STEM-ROOTING LILY ON THE LEIT SHOULD BE

PLANTED DEEPER THAN THE NON-STEM-ROOTING
LILY ON THE RIGHT.

of sandy soil, or dibbled in a
sheltered border outside, will flower
in two or three years. Raising Lilies
from seeds is a rather fascinating
occupation, which may be quite
satisfactorily carried on with only
the help of a cold frame. The
plants flower in from two to four
years, only the Giant Himalayan
Lily, Lilium giganteura, taking, as a
rule, longer than this.

Planting Lily Bulbs.— The depth
to plant the bulbs of Lilies depends
on their size and whether roots are
produced on the base of the stems
immediately above the bulbs as well
as below, or only from below the
bulbs. Examples of a stem-rooting
Lily, L. speciosum, and L. parda-
linum, a non-stem-rooting Lily, are
illustrated. These serve to show
quite well how necessary it is to plant
the bulbs of the stem-rooting Lilies much deeper
in the ground. A selection of Lilies suitable for
the beginner, which may be expected to thrive
and flower freely in most gardens, is as follows :
Stem-rooting — L. croceum, L. elegans, L. Hansonii,
L. Henryi, L. longiflorum, L. speciosum, L. tigrinum
and L. umbellatuni. Non-stem-rooting — L. candidum,
L. chalccdonicum, L. Martagon, L.
monadelphum, L. pardalinum, L.
pomponium, L. pyrenaicum and L.
testaceum. Large bulbs, such as L.
Henryi, which produce quantities
of stem-roots, should be covered
with 8 inches of soil ; bulbs of
moderate size, L. tigrinum, 6 inches ;
and small bulbs, L. elegans, 4 inches.
Large bulbs with no stem-roots, L.
pardalinum, 3 inches to 4 inches of
soil ; small bulbs, an inch less. In
cottage gardens we sometimes see
the Madonna Lily, L. candidum,
with its bulbs growing on the surface,
in excellent condition, apparently
iinharmed by frost or any other
weather conditions.

The second illustration depicts
the method of planting Lilies in
groups or clumps. The six bulbs
are those of L. umbellatum. The
liole is 2 feet across and 8 inches
deep, so that when the bulbs
are placed on the bottom they
mav be covered with 6 inches of
soil. In planting Lilies, particu-
larly if the soil is heavy, it is an
excellent plan to surround the
bulbs with coarse sand, placing a
layer in the bottom' of the hole
previous to putting in the bulbs, and
another on the top before covering
in with soil. This assists drainage
immediately around the bulbs. The
roots of Lilies will he found to revel
in flaky leaf-mould, a little of which
may with advantage be incorporated
with the soil when planting. With the

2. LILY BULBS PLACED IN POSITION AND READY TO

BE COVERED WITH SOIL.

exception of L. candidum and L. testaceum, which
should be planted in August , all the Lilies named may
be planted at the present time. It is also safer to
pot up the bulbs of L. speciosum and L. longiflorum
if newlv-miported Japanese bulbs are purchased.

L. Chalcedonicum, the Scarlet Turk's - cap
Lily, 3 feet to 4 feet high ; flowers in July ; best in
sunny herbaceous border ; rich loamy soil.

L. croceum, the Orange Lily, 3 feet to 4 feet ;
flowers June and July ; loamy soil, in herbaceous
border.

L. elegans, also known as thunbergianum,
flowers during .May and June ; i foot to 2 feet
high ; several sorts with yellow, orange, apricot
and crimson flowers. Plant along the front of a
shrubbery border where the plants will get a little
shade about midday. .Add a little peat to the
soil when planting.

Ii. Hansonii, yellow, drooping, spotted flowers,
3 feet to 4 feet high ; flowers in June ; herbaceous
or shrubberv border.

L. Martagon, light purple spotted flowers,
3 feet to 4 feet high ; flowers June and July ;
delightful in the borders and wild garden. The
white variety, alba, is one of the most beautiful of
all our garden Lilies, producing stems 4 feet high,
with twenty or mure waxy white flowers.

L. monadelphum, also known as szovitzianum
and colchicum, rich straw yellow flowers, 4 feet
to 5 feet high : flowers in July ; a good Lily for
the herbaceous and mixed border.

L. pardalinimi, orange spotted flowers, 5 feet
to 7 feet high : flowers during July and .\ugust ;
plant in shrubbery border, using a little peat.

L. pyrenaicum, yellow, spotted black, 2J feet
to 3 feet ; flowers .May and June ; shrubbery
border and wild garden or herbaceous border , the
first Lily to flowi-r outside.

L. tigrinum, the Tiger Lily, orange spotted
flowers, 4 feet high ; flowers in .August ; Fortune!
giganteum flowers in September and October ;
grows 5 feet to 6 feet high ; herbaceous border.

L. umbellatum. — There are several varieties
with orange, red, or crimson flowers, 2 feet to
2j feet high ; flowers in June and July ; plant in
herbaceous or shrubbery border. a. O.

614

THE GARDEN.

[December 6, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Plants in Frames. — These must be regularly
picked over, as, wherever a decayed leaf comes in
contact with a sound one, the latter is sure to
become contaminated owing to the great amount
nf moisture at this season of the year.

Fuchsias. — Where spring-struck plants are relied
upon for filling vases in the flower garden and
for bedding-out purposes, an early start is necessary.
A few stock plants should be partly cut over and
placed in a moderately warm house where they
may be lightly sprayed over. Here they will
soon break nicely, and if kept in a light position,
good, sturdy cuttings should be ready for rooting
early in the year, and quite good plants are thus
obtained by the time they are required.

The Pleasure Grounds.
Hypericum perforatum. — The common St.
John's Wort is a very useful plant about the
pleasure grounds, as it may be utilised in a number
of positions where other plants will hardly grow,
much less thrive. On borders under trees, once
it becomes established, it will form a fine green
groundwork, which looks very much nicer than
the bare soil. Under large, isolated trees, where
grass will not grow, this plant will do well, and
if small plants or offsets are planted about nine
inches apart any time during the winter, they
will quickly establish themselves, and though
they may not flower so freely as in a more open
position, they will at least look green the whole
season through. By cutting down early in the
spring and giving the ground a slight dressing of
manure, growth is accentuated. For edging large
beds of shrubs it is also useful, while steep banks
may be furnished with it after many other subjects
have failed to grow at all.

Plants Under Glass.

Chrysanthemums. — By this date cuttings should
be in a good condition for propagation, and though
I am convinced that very early propagation is not
actually necessary, it is quite wise to make a start
with those varieties that require a long season
of growth. Bob Pulling, Queen Mary, Hon. Mrs.
Lopes, Amber Queen, Mme. P. Radaelli and its
sports, Edith Jameson and its sports, Mrs. R. C.
Pulling, Fred Chandler, Fred Green and Miss
A. E. Roope are best on first-crown buds, and
in each instance these have to be secured fairly
early.

Decorative and Single Varieties as they are
cut down may be put in cold frames, as these
need not be propagated before the month of
February.

Forcing Plants, such as Azalea mollis, Lilacs,
Prunuses, Laljumums and Viburnums, may now
with advantage be brought indoors, and though
it is not advisable to give too much heat to com-
mence with, a temperature of 50° at night, running
it up mth sun-heat during the day, will soon put
them into growth, when a little more heat may be
employed. In medium-sized establishments it is
not convenient to devote a house entirely to these
forcing plants, but they will be found to do quite
well in a vinery or Peach-house that has been shut
up, removing them eventually to the flowering
house or conservatory.

The Kitchen Garden.

Seed Potatoes that may be required for very
early work in pots or heated frames may with
advantage be stood in boxes and placed in a light
position, when sprouting will commence. At
this season they do not push so quickly ; hence
the necessity of preparing them some time
beforehand.

Hot-beds. — These are best made up in brick
pits at this season, and should be well trodden
down. A good proportion of leaves will tend to
increase the lasting qualities of the hot-bed.
Carrots are the first crop that should be sovm,
and for these from 6 inches to 9 inches of soil
should be placed on the fermenting material.
If the soil comes to within i inch or 2 inches of
the glass, so much the better, as it is sure to sink
considerably before the crop attains any great
height. Sow as soon as the soil is in condition,
and keep the frames fairly close till the seedlings

appear through the soil. The frames must be
covered in severe weather, though nothing short
of frost will actually hurt the Carrots.

Fruits Under Glass.

Pot Figs. — Where these are utilised for very
early crops, the trees should now be thoroughly
cleaned, afterwards giving them a good dressing
of Gishurst or some other insecticide. This is
especially necessary where the trees are infested
with scale. The house in which the trees are
to be grown should also be thoroughly cleansed
before starting the Figs. A steady temperature
of between 50° to 60° should be maintained till
the leaves commence to push, when the tempera-
ture may be raised from 5° to 10°. Bottom-heat
is not absolutely essential for pot Figs, but for early
work it is certainly beneficial. Too much water
at the roots should be avoided, though at no time
should the roots become at all dry after the plants
are started, and a fairly humid atmosphere must
be kept up by lightly spraying and damping,
reducing it somewhat in the event of very frosty
weather.

Hardy Fruits.

In addition to the usual small fruits, such as
Black, Red and White Currants, Gooseberries,
Blackberries and Loganberries are fruits that
are well worth more consideration than they
often get. It may be urged that Blackberries
are very easily secured in the wild state right out
in the country ; but there are many gardens where
this does not apply, and I know of no fruit which
is more appreciated and, I might add, remunerative
than the Parsley-leaved Blackberry. Once estab-
lished, it will go on fruiting for years ; but, like
everything else, it must be given a fair amount
of manure either in the winter or, preferably, when
the fruit is set in the autmxm. The Loganberry
also is very useful, and as it goes on cropping
after the bulk of the Raspberries are over, it should
be cultivated in every garden. I find it soon
gets tired of one position in the garden, so young
plants should be put in fresh positions every four
or five years. The present is a good time to plant
both of these subjects, and, providing the soil
has been well worked, practically any position in
the garden will suit them.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Wheeling Manure. — Any necessary wheeling
of manure or soil, either for improvements or
routine work, should be done during frosty weather
if convenient, and where this is not possible, planks
should be laid for wheeling beyond the walks.

Carnations. — Where these have the benefit
of a frame, they should be kept rather dry and
a sharp look-out be kept for mice ; and, if they
appear, they must at once be trapped or treated
to a little Rodiue on the top of buttered bread.

Herbaceous Flowers. — Materials for top-
dressing should be got ready for application in
the spring. Decayed leaves, old potting soil and
vegetable mould are all suitable, and if they are
mixed now and formed into a conical heap, they
will be in good condition when wanted.

The Smaller Gladioli. — These are now to
hand, and if the ground is ready or is in working
order, it is as well to plant them now and afford
them some protection, as February is often a
wintry month in Scotland, and if planting is delayed
beyond that, a proportion of the corms often
perish. The following are desirable varieties :
Ackermannii, Blushing Bride, Colvillei alba, C.
rosea, Ne Plus Ultra and Peach Blossom.

The Rose Garden.
Planting Rose Hedges. — The gromid should
be well trenched, and the plants be put
zigzag in a double line at about two and a-half
feet apart in the line. After being planted
they should be headed down to from a foot to
2 feet, according to the class. Afterwards they
will require little attention beyond keeping them
free from weeds and any extra vigorous shoots
in check.

The Reck Garden.

Mice. — It is no uncoirmion thing for mice to
ensconce themselves in the cosy comers of the
rock garden during the cold, wet winter weather,
and when wintry conditions obtain they are nothing
loth to nibble at some favourite plant and make
short work of it. One cannot, therefore, be wrong
in keeping one or two " Gert " traps, baited with a
little piece of cheese, in those same cosy comers.

Plants Under Glass.

Propagating Chrysanthemums. — The work of
propagating the large-flowered Japanese varieties
luust now be proceeded with. The cuttings should
either be taken from suckers or from as near the
base of the stem as possible. Few growers strike
them singly in 2j-inch pots nowadays, but dibble
them in rather thmly in pots 4 inches or 5 inches in
diameter. .\ suitable compost to use is equal parts
of loam, good leaf-mould and sharp sand, finishing
with a thin layer of sand. The pots should, of
course, be very thoroughly drained. Stand the pots
in a propagating-frame, and, although opinions
differ, I think it is better not to cover with glass,
but leave them exposed. I admit that by doing
so they will take rather longer to root, but one
will probably not lose a cutting through damping,
and the young plants will be sturdy from the
start. Place them in a greenhouse temperature and
give just sufficient water to keep the soil from
becoming actually dry.

Cyclamens. — These attractive flowers are at
present a valuable asset, both for conservatory
decoration and for filling small vases. When
picking the blooms, they should not be cut, but
pulled out by means of a twist or wrench. They
last a long time in the cut state.

Fruits Under Glass.

Pruning Late Vines. — As soon as Gros Colman,
Black Alicante and Lady Downe's hava shed their
leaves, they should be pruned. Where long spurs
have been allowed to form on the rods, each alter-
nate one should be cut back with a fine saw, and
the cut afterwards dressed with a sharp knife.
In pruning, only one or two eyes should be left,
as only one can ultimately be retained.

Pot Vines. — Before starting these see that the
drainage is all right, and if the presence of worms
is suspected, give a watering with clear lime-water.
Remove a little of the surface soil by means of a
pointed stick, and give the plants a good top-
dressing with turfy loam and Thomson's Vine
Manure, after which give a good watering. It is
an excellent plan to stand the pots on an inverted
turf, but there is no need to do this till the
roots become active. If placed under too soon, the
turf is apt to become sodden before the roots are
ready to lay hold of it.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Loganberries. — if the double trellis system is
pursued, the succession canes will have been tied
in position as growth has proceeded ; still, it
is necessary to overhaul the plants after they have
become defoliated. Head back any shoots which
have gone beyond the desired limit, cutting away
all laterals, after which examine the shoots and
finish any tying of them that is necessary.

Raspberries. — If these are trained to stakes,
they should be examined, and any which have
become decayed should be replaced by new ones,
after which any superfluous canes inadvertently
left should be cut away. Five canes are quite
enough to leave at a stool. When subsequently
tying in the shoots, do not tie them hard to the
stake.

The Vegetable Garden.

Protection from Frost. — It should be home in
mind that while Jerusalem Artichokes, Parsnips
and Leeks are quite hardy, they cannot be dug
up during severe frost unless a portion of the crop
has been covered with some loose litter as soon
as such a condition threatens. The alternative
plan is to lift a portion of the crop and store it in
a cellar or shed among sand. Celery must, of
course, be protected from frost, or serious damage
to the crop will result.

Brussels Sprouts. — This crop is a valuable
asset during the winter, but if a portion of the
crop is allowed to remain after picking is finished,
the growing tops will prove very useful in spring
before early Cabbages tuni in.

Ch.VRI-IS CoMhORr
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mams, Midlothian,

December 6, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

615

I THE ROSE GARDEN.
IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.
Some of the Newer Decorative Roses.
{Continued from page 598.)

WHAT is a decorative Ruse ? In
the old days, say twenty years
back, anything in the shape
'if a Rose that was not up to
exhibition standard was termed a
L " decorative " or " garden " Rose,

' ;ind that to a certain, although undoubtedly to
less, extent is still true. But the time surely
II. 1:- come when a standard as stringent — I would
almost write more stringent — should be set up
' for our garden or decorative Roses. With the
rsliibition Rose much may be, and is, forgiven
11 the flower conforms to a certain orthodox
i.uidard. It may be lacking in scent, it may be
. ii weak or deficient constitution, very shy-flowering,
of bad habit of growth, even be of a bad colour,
and yet still be a good exhibition variety. Now,
iH.ne of these various defects can be allowed in
.1 s;ood garden Rose. It must have perfume,
be of strong and vigorous constitution, of free-
flowering nature spread over a long period, of a
good habit of growth, and, lastly, must be of a
fine and pleasing colour. The almost only
characteristic that it need not have is a uniform
or symmetrical shape. Which standard is the
more difficult to obtain ? Undoubtedly that
suggested as the one to adopt for the garden Rose,
A standard is necessary. Perhaps the National
Ruse Society will look into the matter at the
same time as they tackle the question of classifi-
cation. The two are very much alike ; in fact,
a solution of the one will almost solve the other.
We do not want a Rose that is neither the one nor
the other, not good enough shape for exhibition
purposes, and lacking fragrance or some equally
important feature, and so making it undesirable
icir decorative purposes. I am sure if the National
Rose Society would only tackle the question
boldly, they would earn the grateful thanks of all
concerned, trade grower and Rose purchaser alike.
Something will have to be done, for the number
.1 varieties is getting legion. .\s long as the public
,i^k for the old varieties that have been superseded
by better varieties, the nurserymen will grow
them. I am glad to see that Messrs. Alex. Dickson
and Sons are doing something to meet the diffi-
culty. .\fter a detailed list of Hybrid Perpetuals
■ covering three pages, they give a further list of
names, stating the following can be supplied ;
but in my opinion much better varieties are to be
found in the preceding pages. I think these can
very well be done without, and I presume in due
course they will not be grown. I should like the
National Rose Society to draw up a list of Roses
'■ we can do without," and I am afraid among them
would have to be included nrany new as well as
inanv old varieties.

In dealing with the newer Roses in a kind of
general review, I mentioned certain varieties as
the best of their colour, and I do not, therefore,
propose to refer to these again unless they call,
as some few of them will, for special comment.
I do not think there are any Hybrid Perpetual
Roses either new enough or good enough to be
referred to. Rouge Angevine is a verj' fine coloiu:,
but has an awkward habit of growth, and is scent-
less; this in a red Rose is unforgivable. With regard
to the Hybrid Teas, the story is very different.
I will try to keep them in alphabetical order.

Bertha Gaulis (P. Bemaix, 1910) has proved
very Iree-flowering and a good grower here. Colour,
deep china rose ; good shaped flowers, and not
subject to mildew. Nice long bud.

British Queen (S. McGredy and Son, 1912) I
ha\c already referred to. The flowers last a very
long time, both on the plant and when cut. Of
very similar habit of growth to Mrs. Herbert
Stevens ; in fact, it might have been sent out as
a Tea without anyone grumbling.

Carine {.\lex. Dickson and Sons, 1911). — One
of the favourites in my garden here. The long and
elegant shaped buds are all the colours almost of
the rainbow, make delightful button-holes, and a
most beautiful table decoration ; but it is at its
best in the garden. .A. plant of it with buds and
flowers in all stages of growth is a glorious picture.
One of these days I hope to have a bed of it. .An
excellent grower, carrj'ing its flowers erect on long
footstalks. Strongly perfiuned, with fine foliage.
It is altogether a delightful Rose. I have not
named its colour, because I cannot. No two
flowers, unless they are of the same age, are alike,
and one gets shades of cream, fawn, orange with
carmine markings, blush and pale salmon pink
all on the plant at once. A decided and distinct
acquisition to our garden Roses.

Dorothy Ratclifle (S. McGredy and Son, 1911). —
Medium-sized flowers, probably a Lyon cross, yellow
and fawn, shaded coral. A beautiful Rose, but
surpassed by the raisers' newer varieties Mrs.
C. H. Pearson and Mrs. F. W. Vanderbilt. It
makes a good bedding variety.

Duchess of Wellington (Alex. Dickson and
Sons, 1909). — .\ tall grower, after the style of
Killamey, free-flowering, deep saffron yellow in
colour, flowers fairly full, delightful fragrance.
.A good variety.

Edith Part (S. McGredy and Son, 1913). — I
see the, National Rose Society's new catalogue
(1914 edition) calls the colour of this Rose honej'
yellow. This is a mistake. The flower is really
a bicolor, rich brick red almost, on the outer
petal a colour that nearly comes through the
flesh or pink of the inside of the petal. A particu-
larly striking Rose, flowers medium size, but very
freely produced, a good grower, mildew-proof,
deliciously scented, of fine habit. Really a con-
tinuation of the same colour-scheme that runs
through Grand Due de Luxembourg, Mrs. E. G.
Hill, Lady .\lice Stanley and similar Roses, only
in this case very much intensified. I have never
seen any yellow, honey or otherwise, in this flower,
and I have grown it now for two seasons and saw
it in full flower at Portadown in 1912.

Entente Cordiale (Pernet-Ducher, r909). — This
is quite a good Rose, of a creamy white, shaded
yellow at the base of the petal, an excellent shape
and a free-flowerer. It should make a good bedding
Rose. Unforttmately, another Rose has a similar
name, but that other Rose is little better than a
weed, and certainly not worth growing.

Florence Haswell Veitch (William Paul and
Son, 1911). — .Almost a pillar Rose, at any rate a
pretty vigorous dwarf. Very fine colour, brilliant
scarlet, very fragrant and fairly free-flowering.
Not very large, but of good shape.

H. E. Richardson (Hugh Dickson, 1913). — .A
gold medal Rose, awarded at Belfast last year.
A miniature Victor Hugo, beautiful shape, very
fine colour, vigorous free growth, and I hope will
make a fine bedding Rose. .As sho^vn by the
raisers a very beautiful variety.

Southampton. Herbert E. Molvseu.x.

[To be continued.)

NURSERY NOTES.

MESSRS. WILLIAM ARTINDALE AND
SON.

IT is not uncommon to find that people who
dwell in the metropolis, its nearer suburbs
and the Home Counties think the area
covered and with which they are more or
less familiar represents the universe. They
pride themselves upon the impurities of
the atmosphere and upon the delightful scenery
of many places within the sound of Bow Bells.
They rest assured in their own minds that the
ntirserymen who shine in the limelight of the
Royal Horticultural Society count, while those
who seldom come to the " Hall " are lesser lumi-
naries of another and a poorer world. They are
WTong on many points. The prevailing conditions
of the atmosphere of Birmingham, Manchester,
Sheffield and other of our great provincial cities
would do credit to the best London particular
that can be remembered by living man, and the
environs of these places are at once a som-ce of
pleasure and wonder to the visitor who has become
imbued with orthodox metropolitan notions. It
is quickly found, too, that some of the provincial
nurserymen who do not honomr the Hall fre-
quently have establishments equipped and stocked
in a manner that would do credit to the finest of
those who always contribute exhibits, but they
do not come regularly because they cannot justify
the enormous expense entailed.

.Among such as these rank Messrs. William
.Artindale and Son of Sheffield. The address may,
at first glance, appear rather vague. The firm has
depots and warehoused in several parts of the
city, and at the moment it is purposed to direct
attention to one only — the nursery at Nether
Green, beyond question one of the most charming
suburbs of which any town or city in England can
boast.

When in Shefiield in the late summer to see a
local show, a few spare hours were promptly devoted
to a visit to Nether Green in the anticipation of
seeing a small, provincial nursery. The realisa-
tion was, however, quite different from the antici-
pation, since the place proved to be splendidly
maintained, and stocked with such a comprehen-
sive collection of hardy plants as would furnish
ready and excellent material for fmrnisliing com-
pletely a garden of exceptional extent. The
ground stands on the higher slopes of a hill, and is
divided into many quarters of varying sizes to
afford proper accommodation for the many scores
of plants demanding different requirements. Tall
hedges separate the quarters or drifts, and
within them the featinres at the particular
moment of this visit were the Sweet Peas and the
Violas.

Of the first named there were dozens of magnifi-
cent rows in full bloom at a time when our own in
the South were fast assuming the sere and yellow.
-All the finest new varieties were seen in splendid
form, and those old ones that must still rank
among the best were also grown in bulk. They
were 8 feet to 10 feet high under ordinary culture,
which says much for the excellence of the soil
and the cleverness of the management to which
they are subjected. The primary object was the
production of bushels of blooms for sale in the
firm's shops in the city, but they had also yielded
hundreds of superb bunches for exhibition at shows
all over the provinces.

The feature of the time was, however, the Viola
garden, which presented a picture the equal of which

616

THE GARDEN.

[December 6-, igi^

could not easily be found anywhere in the world,
and assuredly could not be excelled. Great beds,
each filled with one variety, were carpets of hand-
some blossoms, embracing all the hues and shades
now found in these beautiful plants. Some varie-
ties were more fioriferous than others ; some
plants grew more vigorously than others ; but
the comprehensive display was perfect. There
are some five hundred thousand plants grown here,
and sixteen medals have been awarded them at
various shows this season. To mention only
a few, and these not necessarily novelties, there
were : Mrs. William Artindale, bronzy purple
centre, shading mauve and splashed violet ; J. H.
Watson, reddish purple, striped magenta and
wliite ; Ajax, pinkish white, very large ; Crimson
Bedder, deep pink ; A. J. Bastock, purple rose,
striped light rose, large ; Charles B. Murray, bright
purple, streaked rose, large and handsome ; .\gnes
Kay, white centre, almost rayless, edged helio-
trope ; Edina, dark blue ; G. C. Murray, bottom

seen even in big establishments, would have to
be named, and the notes would consequently resolve
themselves more or less into the form of a catalogue.
Space is too valuable in The Garden for that.
SufiBce it, therefore, to say that any plant worth
a place in the choicest collection can be procured
from Artindale of Sheffield.

We noticed a very large collection of alpine
plants — not miniature roots, but thousands
of good clumps, which, we were assured,
were the ordinary size they supply. Large
plots were also devoted to herbaceous plants,
and the fii'm rightly boasts of a fine collection of
Phloxes, PiEonies, Pyrethrums, Primulas, &c. ;
while there were large plantations of early-flowering
Chrysanthemums (of which 30,000 were sent out
last spring) and Dahlias. The firm has also a
branch nursery at Boston, where they grow Roses
and many other hardy plants.

The glass department is not allocated to decora-
tive plants, hut to such as will produce crops for

SOME OF THE VIOLA-BEDS IN MESSRS. ARIINDALE'S NURSERIES .\T NETHER GREEN,

SHEFFIELD.

and side petals black, top petals sk"y blue ; Gladys
Finlay, pure white, rayless, with a clearly-defined
purplish blue margin ; Lady Knox, primrose,
large ; Maggie Mott, soft mauve ; Moseley Perfec-
tion, rich yellow, superb ; Mrs. T. W. R. Johnston,
upper petals mauve, under petals shining black ;
Mrs. Morrison, dark mahogany, striped pink and
rose, with a prevailing bronze sheen ; Kathleen,
white ground, delicately suffused blue, with a
heavy piurplish red edge ; and James Pilling,
white, broadly edged lavender. These are a few
of the many, and might form the nucleus of a
splendid collection. Bidens ' dahlioides was an
attractive hardy plant, with pretty pink flowers
resembling the Cosmea on long stems, which
flowered freely from June till October.

To mention the hundreds of other plants seen in
perfect condition would simply mean that all the
most popular kinds, as well as those of unques-
tioned merit and charm which are not so frequently

sale in the shops, and the three features of out-
standing merit were Tomatoes Pioneer and Prolific,
both raised by the firm, and which are remarkable
for the freedom and persistency with which they
yield fruits of perfect table size and quality, and
the strain of Primula obconica gigantea, for which
Messrs. Artindale are famous. There were perhaps
5,000 plants, with flowers varying in colour from
pure white to deep crimson and as large as a five-
shilling piece, and orders for plants were being
despatched to many distant places, while seed
orders for these are often received from South
Africa, and other countries. The nursery reflects
credit not only upon Messrs. Artindale and Son,
but also upon their capable and courteous manager,
Mr. Lewendon. We presume that the firm
would be pleased to welcome any of our readers
who happened to be in the district at any time
during the spring, summer, or early autumn
months.

TO

ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.

FLOWER GARDEN.

PLANTING HERBACEOUS BORDERS {Lover ol Horti-
culture).—\nu canuot <io lirttpr than arr-inse the plants
m groups, say, about tliree or six to each sroup, and thus
create an effect impossible in any other wav In the
wider portion you would have room for about three sets
of groups, and in the narrower part two groups. Thi>
arrangement does not take any more plants than that ot
planfmg solitary specimens, and by employmg select
colours a more decided effect results. By arranging tli.-
groups alternately, more room is given them, and the
surface soil is better furnished. Unfortunately, you sav
nothing of the nature of the soil, whether light or heavy,
and this would have been helpful. For the hack row employ
single and double Sunflowers, particularly Helianthu's
raultitlonis and H. m. Hore pleno ; Delphiniuni"s Amos Perry,
La Fraiirr. liuk(<)r (nmiau-lif . .Mrs (T, t-litim and King of
ll.li,liii,iiii,,^; also tb.l,,|i,,»iii'.;.Mieliarlnias Daisies ; Astei
cordilolnis Ideal, c. Perfection. Koise-Angliw Mrs. Eayner
N.-A. pulchellus, N.-A. Mrs. S. T. Wright, Bcautv of Colwall'
Feltham Blue and Climax. By allowing a yard for each
of these, the total lengtli wniilrt he occupied," The second,
or middle, row should 1 luitaiii Phloxes in jiink. scarlet, and
white and blue shades, also Auemime japonica in white,
pink and red. Aster erieoides Desire, A. No\i-Belgii dcnsus,
A. diflusus horizontahs. Helemum cupreum. Trolliiij.
Gaillardias, Oriental Poppies, Aquilegia chrysantlia,
single and double Pyrethrums, Flag Irises in variety and
others ; while the front row might contain Hepaticas,
Anemone sylvestris, Helenium pumilum. Phlox cana-
densis, Pa;onia tenuifolia fl.-pl., Christmas Roses, Cam-
panula carpatica alba, C. c. Kiverslea. C. White Star,,
C, muralis, C, Hendersonii. alpine Pidoxes, Narcissus
Emperor, N. Empress, N. Sir Watkin. N. Barri con-
spicuus, Iberis sempervircus and others. In existing
circumstances you would find it a great help if you pur-
chased " The Hardy Flower Book," by E, H. Jenkins,
which is obtainable from our Publishing Department for
Us. lOd,. post free. The book not only contains plans
showing the arrangement of the plants, but is replete with
lists giving their height, colour and time of flowering
You would find it invaluable.

THE GREENHOUSE.

SOIL FOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS (G. D. B.),— On no
account use peat in flir culture of Chrysanthemums, the
main staple required f.)r tlie potting compost being good
fibrous loam.

DWARF WHITE JAPANESE CHRYSANTHEMUMS TO
FLOWER IN NOVEMBER (Hlnckley).^l\OTy is a good
wliife that makes a capital bu.sh ; Moneymaker is a
Inaiiliful cut-flower variety; Pearson's White is a useful
whit I sport from La Triomphautc ; and Felton's Favourite
i~ a wcll-knoH-n market white for November cutting,

INJURY TO PELARGONIUMS(/!?noram««).— The trouble
with the Pelargonium leaves appears to be mainly due to
the plants having been grown in a moist atmosphere
for a time and afterwards exposed to a rather drier one.
We do not think you need fear any trouble with them.
The Cinerarias are attacked by green fly. Thoroughly
fumigate the house or frame in which they are growing
so as to keep this pest in check. Cuierarias are very
subject to it and need frequent fumigation.

PROPAGATING PERPETUAL-FLOWERING CARNA-
TIONS (.-l , B. Z),).— You do not soy what facilities you have
for the propagation of the Perpetual-flowering Carnations,
as where proper appliances exist they strilie root verv
readily, Witn regard to the sand, ordinary silver sand
is usually employed, though builders' sand will do if sifted
finely and free from impurities. If you have but an ordinary
greenhouse hi which to strike the cuttings, perhaps you have
■■\ small propagating-case in the warmest part available
for the purpose. Failing this, a box about six inches
deep and placed, if possible, over the hot-water pipes,
will do. Provision must be made for drainage by iu.ring
some holes in the bottom, over which must be placed
some broken crocks. Then put on a good layer of sand,
into which the cuttings must be inserted. After this
a good wateruig must be given through a fine rose, and when
the superabundant moisture has dried up. the box must
be covered with a sheet of glass. This should be taken
oft every morning and, if necessary, left off for a time m
order to dry the foliage, as, should this not be attended
to, the leaves may decay. Directly the cuttings are roofed,
the glass must be removed. When put in they must be
shaded from very bright sunshine. Where there is a
handhght or small propagating-case available, the cuttings
may be inserted in pots, putting four cuttings around
a pot 3 inches in diameter. The same general treatment
must be observed. The best cuttmgs are furnished by
the short-jointed side shoots ; those that show a tendency
to flower must be avoided.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

TO DESTROY AN OLD IVY ROOT (0. D. &,),— The
large Ivy stem may be destroyed by exposing a few of the
main roots, boring holes three parts of the way thnmgh
and filling them with corrosive sublimate in solutinn,
.V hole slanting downwards and half an inch or thne-
quarters of an inch in diameter may be bored in the stem
and treated in a like manner. Common household salt
may he used for the same purpose as the corrosive subli-
mate, but if does not act (piite so quicWy,

l2fe^

m%^^^-

GARDEN, t

■^?=

No. 2195.— Vol. LXXVII.

Deckmbkk 13, 1913.

CONTENTS.

\0TKS OF Tin-: Wkhk 617

COUUESPONI>KNl'E

Soiiio fiotKl t'hrysaii-
thomuin-* . . . . ins

A littli--kiKiWTi Rose 618

Canary si'cii as a
f'hristinas di'cnra-
tioii 618

Mi'asurinjj: Cyclamen
flowers . . . . 618
Which is thk finp.RN-

SEY L11.V ? . . . . 619
I'orthcominj; events.. 619
KosE G.\RDKN

Rose-j^rowinfi in town
ijardens.— II, .. 619

In a Hampsliire gar-
den 619

lllE HE.4TH G.\RUEN

.\ I) a u k of St.
Dabooc's Heath 620

UOCK AND W.\TEK GARDEN

The designhit:. eon-
structio n and
planting of rock
gardens . . . . 621

Oorydalis thalictri-
folia 621

,V beantifnl Priekly
Thrift 621

Gkeenhocse
Seasonable notes on

Carnations . . . . 622
Single and decorative
Chrysanthemnms 62.3
Science in Rei,.\tion to
Horticulture
Autumn eultivation
of soil . . . . 623

N E W AND 1{ A R B

PLANTS 624

Gakdeninc. for Beginners
The amateur's green-
house in winter.. 625
Gardening of thf. Week
lor .Southern 'jin-

deris •^-jn

l'"ol Northern tiar-
tlen-

G '.UDESISO ACUOsnrs

Editor's Table . . 627
Fruit Garden
An ideal urehard
ff)r n small cottJ^u'i
holding . . . . 627
Answers to Corre-
spondents
Greenhouse . . . . 628
Miscellaneous . . 628
Societies 628

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

620
r27

ILiIiUSTRATIONS.

E.\liibition Chrysantheniunis at The Gardens,

Crookley Park, Horndean. Hants

A partially-shaded bank clothed with St. Dabeoc's

Heath

Corydalis thalietrifolia in the rock garden

Acantholimon venustum. a useful Prickly Thrift . .

Single Chrysanthemum Robert Thorpe

The new double - flowered variety of Primula

malacoides " . .

Arum Lilies, Coleus thyrsoideus and .Magnolia

stcUata in the greenhouse

620
621
622
623

624

623

EDITORIAL NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor wdcomes p?ioiographs, articles and notes,
but he imll not be responsible tor their safe return. All
reasonable eare, however, ttyill be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he loill endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctty understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or oumer of the copyright wilt be treated with.

The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.

OSices : 20, Tavistock ."itreet, Covent Garden, W.V.

Maidenhair Ferns for Cutting. — Where fronds
of the well-known .\diantuin cuneatum are in
great demand for cutting, it is a good practice
to cut a few plants completely down and allow them
to get somewhat dry at the roots, afterwards
placing them in a temperature from 60° to 70°,
when they will soon push up new fronds, which
as they grow may be gradually hardened off before
cutting. If occasional batches of this valuable
foliage plant are treated in this manner, good
frf)nds may be (Obtained throughout the year.

Snowdrops in the Rock Garden. — Species of

Snowdrops, siK h as (ialanthus eaucasicus, G.
cilicicus, G. Elwesii and G. Imperatii, should
find a place in the rock garden, as they
help to brighten it up during the dull days
of winter. The first named blooms during most
of the winter, and G. Elwesii flowers quite a fort-
night before G. nivalis, the common Snowdrop.
Where any of these are already in possession, care
should be tJken that they areiiot smothered by any
vigorous subie< Is ^vhirh may 1"*' growing near them.

A Good Winter-Flowering Shrub.— The value
of Pieris floribunda or .-\ndromeda fioribunda as
a hardy winter-flowering shrub does not appear
to be generally appreciated. It may be due to
the fact that it is rather a slow grower, although
iu a small state it is very ornamental. It com-
mences flowering now, and often continues
till February or March ; but sprays open freely
in water and keep fresh for several weeks. Like
most other North ."American shrubs, it likes peat,
but will thrive in soil suitable for Rhododendrons,
and when planted should be made firm.

A Beautiful Winter Heath.— Although Erica
camea is often spoken of as the Winter Heath,
it does not usually reveal the full beauty of its
flowers until February is here. Much earlier
and quite hardy is E. mediterranea hybrida.
This we have flowering now in a position facing
north ajid in ordinary well-drained soil, to which
neither peat nor leaf-soil has been added. Its
flowers are of a charming rose pink colour, and
it makes a neat tuft of growth about nine inches
high, exceeding this a few inches with age. This
winter-flowering Heath deserves to be much
better known than it is at present.

Pruning Evergreens. — There are a number
of evergreen shrubs that require a certain amount
of pruning to keep them in a symmetrical shape.
Advantage may be taken of this time of the
year, as there is always a demand for such
material for decoration, and the one operation
serves the two purposes, as such material keeps
fresh for a long time if placed in a cool position.
Unless the shrubs are intended to form a hedge,
cutting back to a flat surface is to be avoided.
It is much better to remove the projecting branches
by cutting them right out, rather than form a
wall-like appearance as we often see.

Rose Gloire de Dijon. — Some beautiful blooms
of this old Tea Rose gathered from the open garden
on Sunday last, the 7th inst., reminded us that
this is usually the earliest of the double Roses to
flower and the last to finish. Often we have had
good blooms before May had departed, and we
have yet to find a new Rose that will, even in a
season such as this, give us flowers during eight
months of the year. Although raised so long ago
as 1850, we are glad to find that the sterling quali-
ties of Gloire de Dijon are still recognised. It is
a good rambler and very sweetly Tea-scented ;
hence we ran well afford to overlook the fact that
some of the flowers come with divided centres.

Perpetual - Flowering Carnations. — These
charming flowers of winter bid fair to become
almost as popular at this season as the Rose is
during the summer months. The splendid exhi-
bition held by the Perpetual Flowering Carnation.
Society in London last week, and a report of which
appears on another page, served to draw attention
to the usefulness and the charm of these flowers.
Some of the dinner-table decorations were very
good indeed, especially under artificial light, a
test that many so-called dinner-table decorations
do not emerge from successfully* It was gratify-
ing to note that the public attended well, and
thus showed their appreciation of the work the
committee is doing.

A Useful Berried Shrub.— One of the brightest

shrubs just now is Cotoneaster Simonsii. It
has nothing to its discredit except that it is
by no means rare. If it were difficult to obtain
or grow, it would be at once placed in the front
rank of shrubs for winter effect. This Cotoneaster
will thrive in almost any soil or situation, is par-
ticularly good for towns, and rarely fails to produce
a heavy crop of its bright orange-coloured berries,
which hang on the branches sometimes as late
as .May and retain their colour the whole time.
It grows fairly rapidly, but can be kept in bounds
by occasionally shortening back those growths
that are too venturesome.

"The Garden" in 1914.— We hope next

week to be m a position to make an announce-
ment that should be of considerable interest to
our ever-increasing number of readers. We have
been able to secure an unparalleled list of authors
and articles for the coming year, some of which we
hope to announce in our next issue. The reputa-
tion for authoritative articles and artistic
illustrations which The Garden has enjoyed ever
since its foundation over forty years ago has
increased year by year, and no effort will be
spared to keep this reputation. The contributions
which have been already promised for 1914 enable
us to look forward with no small degree of confi-
dence to a brilliant New Year. We take this
opportunity of expressing our warmest thanks
to a very large number of correspondents who have
written to us acknowledging their indebtedness to
and cordial appreciation of Thf. Gardf.n.

(W8

THE Gx\RDEN.

[December 13, 101. >

CORRESPONDENCE.

i I he Editor is not responsible for the opinion
expressed by correspondents.)

Some Good Chrysanthemums. — I have pleasur-
III si-iuiiiiK yi'ii « pliotngraph of a fjri'iip of our
1QI3 exhibition Chrysanthemums. These plants
were rooted in the months of January and February
ni a cold greenhouse, and proved very successful
throughout the whole season, being free from
rust and maggot, and retaining their foliage from
the rim of the pot upwards to the flower in a
splendid condition. You will notice that the
blooms are a fine size, hut the largest flowers
were those of F. S Vallis, R. Vallis and F. Payne.
— A.. E. LiiTTMAN, The Gardens. Crookley Park,
Horndean. Hants.

A Little-Known Rose.— Referring to the
ijuestion of a little-known Rose called Donarte
(le Elvira, mentioned in your " Correspondence "
column on page 595 of November 29 issue, I find,
both in Pernet-Ducher's and Ketten's catalogue,
what, bv the description, is evidently the same

been in Portugal that it is a great favourite in
Portuguese gardens. It came to me many years
ago among some Roses from France, and I was
so delighted with it that I ordered it again and
again, both for myself and for many of my friends
who admired it. It is a Noisette, and here in
North Notts it does better on a wall than climbing
over poles. -It grows very quickly, and is con-
stantly covered with flowers of a beautiful shade
of salmon pink. Everyone who sees it admires
it and wants to know its name. I think it such
a pitv that so few English nurserymen grow it. —
Agnes Melush, Hodsock Priory. Notts.

Canary Seed as a Christmas Decoration. —
I think some of your readers may not know the
very fresh and dainty Christmas " greenery "
that can be obtained by sowing canary seed now.
I always sow it about three weeks before Christmas
Day in small bowls and vases not more than
4 inches to 6 inches deep. I fill these with coarse
sand to aboiit an inch below their rims, soak
them thoroughly, and sprinkle evenly a layer of
j canary seed on the surface ; then put them in a
I warm, dark place, keeping them daily moistened

EXHIBITION CHRYSANTHEMUMS AT THE GARDENS, CROOKLEY'pARK, HORNDEAN, HANTS.

Rose, but named Duarte de Oliveira (Brassac,
1880). It is described as a very vigorous climber,
floriferous and of coppery salmon rose. — Charles
B. Bragg, Handsworth, Birmingham.

I was pleased to see a note upon a variety

y<mr correspondent calls Donarte de Elvira
(page 595). It is a great favourite of mine, but
lost to me just at present. I believe the correct
name is Duarte de Oliveira, and it was sent out
by M. Brassac in 1880 or 1881. It is given as a
cross between Ophirie and Reve d'Or, and those
who know these two varieties can form a good
idea of it when I say it partakes of both parents
about equally. It is strange how some of our
useful old Roses get missed ; and yet at that time
of day M. Brassac was well known as one of our
best French raisers. — A. P.

I am delighted to see that your corre-
spondent in The Garden of November 29 is
writing in praise of a little-known Rose that is
.1 great favourite of mine ; only may I venture
to correct her in the spelling of the name, which
shoidd be Duarte de Oliveira. I supposed it to
be Spanish, but was to>d by a friend who had

with tepid water till the little pink tops are about
an inch high. Then I bring them to a sunny
window, and, turning them round daily (so that
they grow up evenly), I have the pleasure of
watching their rapid progress to clusters of bright
pink and green foliage. When grown, they last
another three or four weeks in good decorative
condition, even in rooms lighted by gas. By that
time I have another batch (sown at the close of
the year) to take their place. Sometimes I stick
some early cut Snowdrops among them, with good
effect. Their bright, fresh, verdant hue is very
pleasing to the eye in the dark winter days. —
Anne Amateur.

Measuring Cyclamen Flowers. — In reply to
Mr. Blair re the measunng of a Cyclamen flower,
page 594, issue November 29, I measured
it by stretching the bloom flat. Perhaps it would
have been more explicit had I said each petal
measured 3 inches ; but I was tempted to measure
them that way, and under the circumstances I
think most people would have done so ; for, take
a plant carrying seventy-one fully-expanded
blooms, some of them with six and seven petals,

and the plant measuring 21 inches through,
naturally one would say, " I wonder how much
they measure across " ; hence my meaning 6 inches
from tip to tip. But as for growing old corms,
I do not think I shall ever do that, because I have
never seen the blooms of old corms come up t^i
those blooming the first time, and we are quiti-
satisfied with seedlings here. I have measured
several of our plants, and find some are 22 inches
and the majority 18 inches through. Of course,
they have not yet finished developing. I counted
the leaves on one plant, and found it was carrying
115, the largest of them measuring 4 inches in
diameter. So all the time we get those results,
no old corms for us. — F. C. Willie, The Gardens,
Great Walstead. Lindfield. Sussex.

Rosemary and Carnations. — Noticing your
remarks about foliage for associating with cut
flowers, especially of a light nature, on page 581
of November 22 issue, I might say that Roseman,-
is an ideal plant in the Sunny South, but in northern
climes this cannot be depended on. This year a
trial was given to an annual imder the name of
Artemisia sacrorum viridis [Artemisia annua. —
Ed.1. Seeds were sown in April, and by August
the plants had developed into fine Cypress-like
bushes in the open borders, and have since, almost
daily, yielded quantities of foliage. This is scented,
is very light, and mixes well with almost any
flowers, hardy or tender, although it ought never
to be associated with flowers that are fragrant,
otherwise their natural fragrance is apt to be
somewhat lost. This plant does not seem to be in
the Kew lists. Is it known mider another name ?
It is a plant that ought to be widely known and
widely grown. Eucalyptus, especially E. globulus,
grown in the open during the summer, is also a
welcome foliage plant suitable for cutting and
.irranging with cut flowers, as also are the long,
feathery growths from Lupinus arboreus. There
is yet another subject that is ofttimes forgotten,
viz., Lemon-scented Verbena (Lippia). This,
raised from cuttings early and planted out in a
warm border, provides a lot of fragrant foliage,
at this season. — H. R., Twickel, Holland.
Plants Flowering Late in Yorkshire. — Much

has been written to the papers about plants in
bloom so late in the year. How about the follow-
ing, now in bloom in my garden in this north-
east comer of Yorkshire, eight or nine miles from
the sea and 300 feet above it ? Geums, Violas,
Roses in quantity. Chrysanthemum maximum
Wynward, Berberis Darwinii, B. Aquifolium, Arabis
Acre pleno, Doronicum, Veronica repens, V. Bid-
willii, Aubrietia, Arabis Billardieri rosea, Achillea
umbellata, Lithospermum prostrata, Linum perenne,
.Andromeda floribunda, Arbutus Unedo, Vibunium
Tinus, Alyssum saxatile flore pleno, single Alyssum,
Sweet Alyssum, lonopsidium, Campanula muralis,
C. persicifolia, Potentilla aiirea, Armeria laucheana,
Dianthus atrorubens, D. graniticus, Primula
capitata, Sedum spurium, Gaultheria procum-
bens, Polygala Chamaebuxus, Phlox vema,
Santolina Chamaecyparissus, Gentiana acaulis,
Anthemis Aizoon, Acsena microphylla. Cyclamen
neapolitanum, Hutchinsia alpina. Primula cash-
meriana. Antirrhinum, Primula Double White,
Helianthemums, perennial Sweet Pea, Erigeron
mucronata, Meconopsis cambrica flore pleno.
Clematis Mrs. Moser, Jasminum nudiflorum,
Iberis sempervirens, Hieracium aurantiaeum,
Cerastiura Biebersteinii, early-flowering Chry-
santhemums, Ericas in several varieties, Per-
nettyas. Bunch Primroses by thousands. Pears
and Strawberries. — J. J. Burton.

December 13, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

619

WHICH IS THE GUERNSEY
LILYP

THE ROSE

CARD E N.

TOWN

1MEAN the old original — the variety tluit has
givcu rise to all the myths and t£iles that arc
told to account for the introduction of this
Japan {?)— Cape of Good Hope bulb into
the little island of Guernsey, where, as we
say in my part of the world, it at once made
itself at home and grew away " like squitch."

Whether it is Banbury cakes, or Shrewsbury
cakes, or Everton toffee, or the Guernsey Lily,
there is a sort of historical satisfaction in being
quite certain which is the " old original." It
adds a something that nothing else can. Which,
tlien, of all the many Nerines is the true Guernsey
Lily ? I used to think it was N. sarniensis, and that
N. sarniensis was in colour a sort of pale i)range
red. In Nicholson's Dictionary it is said to be
" pale sahnon coloured." This summer I bought
some of what was said to be " the real thing " from
the island itself, and the other week, when I paid a
visit to Colesborne to see Mr. Elwes and his magni-
ficent colleilion, I took him a flower of my new pur-
chase, which he at once pronounced to b.-- " rosea."
Since my return home I have gone further
into the matter, and I have turned up the Bclaitical
Magazine, where, on Plate 294, the Guernsey
Lily, or, as it was then called, the Amaryllis
sarniensis, is pictured. There it is undoubtedly
rose-coloured, and in the explanatory text the
description of Dr. Donglass (sic) is quoted : " each
flower in its prime looks like a gold tissue wrought
on a rose-coloured ground." About a year ago
a copy of Dr. James Donglas's " Monograph on the
Guernsey Lilley " came into my possession, and so
I am able to verify this allusion in the Botanical
Magazine, and also to add the interesting informa-
tion that the author claims to have given the name
N. sarniensis. He says on page 8 of the enlarged
second edition of 1729 : " To this island likewise
we owe its common English name, the Guernsey
Lilly, which I have ventured to render Lilium
Sarniense, on the authority of the Learned Cambden.
who tells us, that Samia is the Latin name us'd
by Antoninus in his Itinerarium Marilimum to
express the island of Guernsey." (The italics are
in the original.) .\s Dr. Donglas gives a chrono-
logical list of names from 1635 to 1726, and the
title N. sarniense does not appear, I presume his
statement is correct. If so, then the true Guernsey
Lily is rose-coloured.

If there was nothing more to be said, I would
consider the question as settled, but it is not so.
There seems to be the possibility of a second " old
original " having come to the island vid Paris, if
the " Narcisse de Japon " of P. Morin was a true
Nerine (" Remarques nessaires pour la Culture
des Fleurs," edition 1667, page 24). Or if John
Rea is to be trusted {" Flora, seu de Florum
Cultura," 1665, page 78), there seem to have been,
even in those early days, more varieties than were
known, except by hearsay in England.

Hence it seems to me that even then (c. 1660-70)
the Guernsey people may have had not only sarnien-
sis rosea, but also corusca and something akin to un-
dulata, and that the name Guernsey Lily was from
the first not so much specific as generic. Is there,
then, any one " old original " ? Joseph Jacob.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
December 15. — National Chrysanthemum
Society's Executive Committee Meeting.
December 18. — Linnean Society's Meeting.

ROSE-GROWING IN
GARDEN S.-II.

11- the Rose were as easily cultixated as the
Marigold, half the enjoyment of growing
it would be gone, and certainly we should
not all appreciate it as we do now. Fortu-
nately, then — or unfortmiately if you prefer
it — the Rose is more subject to the attacks
of insects and suffers from a greater variety of
complaints than any other flower of our gardens,
and in this respect the town-dweller is especially
favoured. He cannot escape these pests entirely ;
but, by observing a few simple rules at the com-
mencement, he can prevent them from getting
the upper hand, and so lessen the amount of work
entailed subsequently. I have already pointed
out the advantage of having the beds as far as
possible in the open, away from walls or fences.
The neighbourhood of trees must also be avoided.
Sunshine and air mean health and strength, and
strong plants are better able to resist disease.
.\nother important point is that the beds should
not be made too wide. Three feet is a convenient
width, which will just accommodate a double row
of trees and leave room for a narrow border of
Violas or some other edging. So planted they
are more easily accessible, and can be better looked
after than where the bed is a wider one.

In towns especially we must avoid those varie-
ties with weak constitutions, or which are especially
subject to mildew. Nor is it of any use to nurse
sick plants. It is better at once to get rid of them
and fill their places with healthy trees which will
start fairly. Old and worn-out specimens that
have not bloomed satisfactorily are also best
got rid of. Usually these have exhausted the
food in the immediate neighbourhood of their
roots, which have penetrated deeply into un-
prepared soil and are practically out of reach
of fertilisers. Do not yield to the temptation
to carpet the beds with other flowers. Remember;
the continual use of the hoe throughout the growing
season is quite as important as manure. Lastly,
give ample room between the plants.

The greatest handicap of the town gardener
is smoke. Frequently it is present in the atmo-
sphere to such an extent that in dry weather the
leaves become coated with a layer of grime. Now
every leaf has many thousands of tiny holes in it,
called storaata, and through them the plant absorbs
the necessary gases and discharges superfluous
moisture, just as we do through the pores of our
skins. It will be seen, then, how important it is that
the leaves should be kept clean. This is one
reason for using the syringe freely and frequently.

Of insect pests, the aphis easily takes first place,
both by reason of its ubiquity and in point of
numbers. It has been calculated that the great-
grandchildren of one aphis might number over
sixty millions if all could find standing room
and were left unchecked. Fortunately, the death
rate is high ; but it is hard work to keep it uniformly
at 100 per cent, in our own gardens and to deal
with alien immigrants as well. Steel the heart
and soil the fingers. It may be a messy job,
but is a very effective way of keeping them down.
One quickly becomes expert at running over a
growth with finger and thumb, and, if this be
done regularly, a great many trees can be looked
over in a few minutes ; but the hand must always
be supplemented by the syringe. While we are
looking for aphis we shall, of course, catch cater

effective remedy. Wherever a leaf is seen to be
curled or eaten, go carefully over the whole tree.
Moths never lay their eggs singly. One of the
most harmful of larvio is that of the sawfly, which
does considerable damage to standard Roses
by boring into the pith. To prevent this, the cut
parts should be painted over with enamel when
the trees are pruned. Cuckoo spit is often trouble-
some in towns, and the little green insect must be
caught and slain before he has time to blow bubbles
with more of the precious sap. Earwigs must
be looked for in the blooms. These are all the
insects the grower need worry about. Ants will
not trouble him if his beds are hoed regularly.

The worst enemy of the town gardener is mildew.
This usually makes its appearance towards the
end of July, but long before then one must take
active measures to combat it. It is best, there-
fore, when spraying, to use a preparation that is
equally effective for dealing with mildew as well
as aphis, and there are many excellent combined
insecticides and fungicides. If expense be a
consideration, a very cheap, easily-made and
effective remedy may be made up as follows :
First make a strong stock solution by dissolving
Lifebuoy Soap in boiling water. To two gallons
of water add an ounce of liver of sulphur, pre-
viously dissolved in a pint of hot water, and as
much of the soap solution as will make it lather
freely when stirred. The quantity will depend
on whether the water be hard or soft, but the
latter should always be used for preference, rain-
water if procurable. Spray the under sides as _
well as the tops of the leaves, and syringe with
clear water about two hours afterwards.

Black spot, fortunately, is as fond of country
as of town life. Regular spraying with liver of
sulphur will prevent its appearance. Where a
plant is infected, it is best to bum it at once, rather
than rim the risk of the disease spreading. My
next article will deal with some of the Roses best
suited for town culture. P. L. Goddard.

{To be continued.)

IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.

Some oi' the Newer Decorative \'akietii:s.

(Continued from page 615.)
Irish Fireflame (Hybrid Toa, Alex. Dickson
and Sons, ifjia). — I have very little to add to the
notes that I have contributed on more than one
occasion to your columns concerning this Rose,
except to say that the result of growing Irish Fire-
flame for the past season has only been to add to
my admiration of this very beautiful Rose. It
is still producing buds and flowers ; but, of course,
the brilliance of the colouring of the normal flower
is lacking somewhat in these December blooms.
It proves, however, that the ground colour is yellow,
and not pmk as in Irish Elegance. I confidently
expect to pick flowers of this variety (if Jack
Frost does not intervene) at Christmas. No lover
of single Roses should be without a plant of Irish
Fireflame, the most beautiful of all singles.

Lady Dunleath (.Mex. Dickson and Sons, 1913).
— I made an especial note of this variety last year
at Newtownards, and I am glad that Messrs.
Dickson have been able to put it into commerce
this year. It is a lovely Rose, with all the refine-
ment of a pure Tea, coupled with the vigour and
shape of a Betty, only fuller, with more petals.
To call it a yellow Betty hardly does it justice,
for it has, I think, more shape and substance.
Outside of the petals creamy white, with a deep

_ ellow centre. It is a delightful Rose. The

piUarsJ and here hand-picking is by far the most | plants carried plenty of bloom, and it is bound to

620

THE GARDEN.

[December 13, 1913.

A PARTIALLY-SHADED BANK CLOTHED WITH ST. DABEOC'S HEATH
(daboecia POLIFOLIA).

berom*; very popular, especially with the ladies.
11 is fragrant.

Lady Greenall (Alex. Dickson and Sous, 1911). —
The note of distinction about this Rose is very
marked. Its exquisite shape accounts partly for
it, perhaps, but it is the tout ensemble that is so
pleasing, " Like a queen's her golden head "
is a line that always occurs to me in connection
with this Rose. It is a good grower, the flowers
held very erect on stiff, long stalks, with a strong
Tea perfume. With me almost, if not quite,
free from mildew. Colour not tmlike the last
named — that is, white or cream — with yellow or
gold in the centre of the flower.

Lady Hillingdon (Tea, Lowe and Shawyer
and G. Mount, rgio).— Undoubtedly the best
bedding Rose of its colour, namely, a good, sound
golden orange and deep apricot. Very free-flowering,
free from mildew, a good grower, but the flowers
are not held quite upright. It makes an excellent
standard, a most beautiful bed, and one of the best
of button-holes. Now that it is down to normal
prices it should be in every garden. Those who
want it should order it at once, as the stock is
very nearly sold out for this season, so I am told.

Lady Margaret Boscawen (Alex. Dickson and

Suns, icili). — Another very pretty button-hole,
both in the half-open bud and fully-< xpanded
flower, as the latter is not too large. It is a
soft pale flesh colour, very delicate and pretty,
a good grower and opener, with a delicious scent.

Lady Mary Ward

(S. McGredy and Son,
r9i3). — This is a
wonderful piece of
colouring very difficult
to describe, burnished
copper and deep
orange, almost a
bronze shade. A very
fine bowl of it at-
tracted a great deal
of attention at the
National Rose
Society's Autumn
Show. The flower is
of good shape for a
decorative variety,
and the plants can
be placed somewhat
closer together than
is usual, as it is not
a vigorous grower.
Lady Roberts was
once described by a
Rose-loving parson as
"William Allen
Richardson gone to
heaven " ! Lady Mary
Ward might be
described as Lady
Roberts gone to the
same place. It is
quite unique in its
colour-scheme.

Lady Pirrie (Hugh
Dickson, 1910). — This
Rose has improved
very much with me
this year, both in
colour and growth, so
much so that one can
fairly call the latter
vigorous. No doubt it
suffered (as so many
of these new Roses that strike a distinct
note do) from over-production, and it was not
too vigorous to start with ; in fact, one would
almost have called it a poor grower. But now
that it has had time to get established, it is quite
a different matter, and it makes an ideal bedding
Rose. The varying colours of its petals are delight-
ful, and there are few more beautiful Roses for
table decoration. Salmon overlaid with a deep
copper red, mixed with fawn and yellow ; they
are all there at different stages. The flowers are
medium size and not very full, but they open well
in all weathers, and stand the rain a great deal
better than most Roses.

Leslie Holland (Hugh Dickson, igrr).— This
makes a fine bedding Rose. The colour is very
fine in the young flowers.

Little Dorrit (Tea, Paul and Son, t9i2),— A
very pretty China Tea of good growth. Buff and
carmine tmted — a pretty combination.

Mme. H. de la Valette (China, Schwartz, 1910).
— This is another China of even deeper colouring
than that old favourite Mme. Engine Resal,
yellow, shaded coppery red of the brightest shades.
A good grower and very free. Can be recommended.
Mme. Jules Bouche (Croibier et Fils, igri). —
This is a pretty Rose of a refined Maiden's Blush
colouring, very free, of good habit, and the flowers
of quite good shape.

Mary Countess of Hchester (Alex. Dickson
and Sons. igog). — A very free-flowering, vigorous-

growing bedding Rose of bright carmine colouring
in the younger flowers and buds, shading to a
crimson carmme in the larger, fully-open flowers.
Fragrant and nearly free from mildew.

Margaret Molyneux (Alex. Dickson and Sons,
1909). — Named after my eldest daughter. A
beautiful decor: tive Rose that flowers in large
trusses on long footstalks right up till the frost.
Deep saffron yellow in the bud, fading to a bright
but pale cream in the open flower. A Rose of few-
petals, hilt delightful if cut young and used for
the house. Sweet-scented and a good grower.

Melody (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 191 1). — .\
Hybrid Tea with a lot of Tea blood in its veins
A beautiful Rose with a somewhat curious name. I
suppose the idea is all right — " If only I could speak,
what a song I could sing." My plant has pleased
me so much that I am making a small bed of it,
and there are not many Roses that 1 can promote
to that distinction in my small garden. A real
good yellow, of a lovely Tea shape, deep primrose
shade in colour, fine growth and mildew-proof.
A table of this Rose at the National Rose Society's
show in the autumn won first prize.

Moonlight (Rev. J. H. Pemberton, 1913). — This
is an entirely charming Rose, judging from the
numerous exhibits staged by the raiser, and well
worthy of the gold medal of the National Rose
Society, which it obtained at the Autumn Show
this year. It is described as a semi-climber,
obviously a seedling from Trier or from the same
strain. I noticed one of your contributors seemed
to think the National Rose Society was making
a great mistake in giving such a Rose a gold medal.
Why, I wonder ? The National Rose Society is
out to encourage all kinds of Roses, not exhibition
varieties only. A Rose that can give us its flowers
in such profusion and of such good quality in the
autumn as Moonlight does is very welcome, and
its raiser should certainly be encouraged to go on
and give us something more, even better if possible.
If he does, I am sure other gold medals will be
his reward.

Sotithamplon. Herbert E. Molyneux.

i'J'v be continued.)

THE HEATH GARDEN.

A BANK OF ST. DABEOC'S HEATH.

IN order that hardy Heaths should be seen to
their best advantage, it is necessary that
' they should be planted in a semi-wild place
where they may assume their natural
beauty. To grow Heaths in circular or
angular beds is to deprive them of half
their charm. Most of the Heaths will succeed
under the partial shade of trees, where they should
be allowed to spread more or less unchecked in all
directions. St. Dabeoc's Heath is one of the
most desirable of them all. It is not an Erica,
although it is closely related to that genus, but
is known botanically as Daboecia polifolia and
Menziesia polifolia. Like most other Heaths,
it thrives in a sandy peat soil to which a fair
quantity of loam is added. It is well suited for
planting on the fringe of a shrubbery or woodland,
while for growing over rockwork or for clothing
a bank it has few equals. Our illustration depicts
a bank clothed with St. Dabeoc's Heath in Messrs^
James Box's rock garden at Lindfield, Susse.x.
Here the white, rose and purple forms of this Heath
grow so freely that they have to be kept within
bounds, while in the long season from early June
till late September the flowers are freely produced.

December 13, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

621

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

THE DESIGNING, CONSTRUCTION
AND PLANTING OF ROCK GARDENS.

[Continued jroni page 608.)
Selection of Stone. — This is frequently a matter
of the locaUty m which the work is being carried
out, and is controlled by the matter of cost, as it is
liardly probable (and rarely advisable) that one
would import a foreign stone into a district abound-
ing with natural rock of any sort. Opinions differ
very greatly as to the best stone to use, and I think
it depends to a very great extent on the point of
view from which you approach the question ;
certainly, much on the class of work for which it is
to be used.

We had a fine collection of samples to study
during the Royal International Show at Chelsea,
1 912, and the Royal Horticultural Society's Spring
Show, 1913, and a careful comparison leads me to
place them in tlie following order of merit : The
winner of the first prize in the 600-feet class at
the 1912 show and a gold medal at the 1913 show
(Mr. Wood) used a grey limestone, collected in
beautiful weather-worn pieces in a certain district
in Yorkshire. The advantages of this stone are
so obvious that it seems imnecessarj' to recoimt
them. Especially is it suitable for small rock
gardens ; indeed, it is hardly suitable for bold or
extensive work, as it is difficult to obtain anything
in the nature of large pieces. The cool grey colour,
porous nature and weathered appearance all combine
to make this stone one of the most attractive,
both as regards appearance and for plant culture.
The grey limestones used in the exhibits of Messrs.
R. Wallace and Co., and Mr. Clarence Elliott in the
1913 show, are in many respects so similar that they
are certainly worthy of mention in association.
Moreover, they are both obtainable in large pieces,
and therefore more suitable for bold w^ork. Next
in order I placed the oolitic limestone from the
Purbeck Hills, used in two of the larger of the
■' trade " or non - competitive exhibits at the
International Show, 1912. I do not think there
exists anything more beautiful for rock gar-
dens when in association with water than this
stone. It is an easy stone to use, as one can
scarcely make the mistake of placing it in any
but the right position. It never looks new, and,
so long as it is used the right way up, yiever seems
to be asking itself how it comes to be in its present
position. Even when the inevitable disaster
occurs, and a few pieces of it get left lying quite
bare, through the death of the plants surrounding'
them, it is sufficiently picturesque in itself to be
quite unobtrusive, which is more than one can say
of many other stones. It can be obtained in pieces
of considerable size, and so used for large or small
rock gardens. The next three stones run each
other very closely on points, although each has its
distinct advantages. One is the well-knowai Bargate
stone, excellent for effect and plant-life, but very
difficult to obtain in pieces sufficiently large for
really effective work ; another, Derbyshire
sandstone or grit, that can be abnormally ugly
unless carefully used (which it rarely is). To all
appearance this stone is too hard for rock plants
to thrive thereon, or even vegetate, but experience
has taught us that they will succeed admirably
on or among it. It is obtainable in any-sized pieces
required, up to eight-ton blocks. For big, bold work
it is invaluable, and very cheap. Many notable
rock gardens have been constructed with it, par-
ticularly, I might mention, that at Friar Park,
HLi.loy, and (I believe) also that at Warley Place.

Against Sussex sandstone I have two objections.
The colour when new is very distasteful, and even
when weathered it is likely to fritter away in parts
and leave ugly yellowish patches glaringly exposed.
In every other way it is an excellent stone ; plants
love it. Care must be taken in using it that it
does not become rigidly '* beddy " in appearance.
It usually comes out in thick, flat slabs that must
be used flat, and the consequence is that it sometimes
becomes monotonous in outline. There is also a
good Yorkshire sandstone closely allied to the Derby
grit previously mentioned, that is very useful
for bold, massive work, but it is not the most desir-
able stone in association with water. Of all the
stones used in the International Show, I liked the
Kentish ragstone the least. Cold, hard, tmdesirable
in colour, its only advantage seems to be that it
is a cheap stone to use at home. It should never
be sent far away. There are, however, some grades
of this stone much more suitable than others.
There are other fine stones, notably on the Western
borders of Oxford, in parts of Gloucestershire,
and many others ; but the range I have given
will serve for the purpose of comparison.

Where the intention is to utilise a suitable site
for the introduction of picturesque rock effects,
the principal requisite
is stone of bold,
rugged formation that
is sufficiently suscep-
tible to climatic and
atmospheric action
that it will take on a
weathered appearance
quickly, and yet is not
affected to any great
extent by frost. If,
however, the intention
is to cultivate alpines,
a softer stone is desir-
able, and a slight
frittering away 01
particles is really de-
sirable lor man y
plants. Needless to
say, as so many
alpines revel in lime-
stone, this is the most
serviceable. Indeed,
there is a limited
nvmiber of plants that
will not thrive with-
out it.

George Dillistonl..
Colchester.
{To be continued.)

establishes itself, and can be relied upon to throw
up its bright yellow spikes of flower in good
numbers. Moreover, the foliage of this plant
is very decorative, and it never looks better
than when draping boulders of rock, particu-
larly if the leaves have assumed that bronze
tint peculiar to this species. .'\s a greenhouse
subject this Corydahs is of great value, both for
pots and baskets. It seeds' freely, and the seeds
germinate readily under glass if sown quite early
in the vear.

A BEAUTIFUL PRICKLY THRIFT.

(.\C.4NTHOLI.MON VENUSTUM.)

This is one of the most attractive of the Prickly
Thrifts, much more refined in appearance than
Its more ordinary relative, .'\cantholimon (;lu-
maceum. The foliage is narrow, somewhat re-
sembling that of a Dianthus, and when the new
leaves first form they are quite soft and flexible.
.\s they mature, however, they become intensely
rigid and spiny, and are as sharp as a needle at
their points. The colour of a tuft of this plant
is a soft greenish grey, tending more to grey as
the plant increases in health. The flowers, which

CORYDALIS
THALICTRI
FOLIA.

When this plant was
shown for the first
time in this country
some ten or tw'elve
years ago, it was
welcomed as a very
promising subject for
the cool greenhouse.
Since that time, how-
ever, it has proved
its worth in the open
rock garden, for if
planted out in the
spring in a favoured
nook it quickly

CORYDALIS TH.<VLICTRIFOLI.\ FILLING A SHELTERED NOOK IN THE
ROCK GARDEN.

622

THE GARDEN.

[December 13, 1913.

are of a bright rose tint, are produced in July, a
point of considerable value when so many of our
choice alpine plants are early flowering.

The arching spray of buds is curiously suggestive
of a grass plume, while the cinnamon-coloured
calyx, which finally develops into a saucer-shaped
frill, persists for some time after the flowers have
fallen. Here at Woodford it thrives in a gritty
compost to which old mortar has been liberally
added, in a position fully exposed to the sun, and
protected from winter wet by a roof glass. Last
year in M. Dallenges' garden at Chene-Bourg,
Geneva, I saw several magnificent tufts — by far
the finest I have ever seen — revelling in the torrid
sunshine of that district and aglow with numerous
sprays of flowers.

The propagation of this plant is difficult, since
it roots very deeply, with almost fibreless thongs.
It is said to " layer " if outstanding pieces are
pegged down and fine soil placed upon them,

THE GREENHOUSE.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON
CARNATIONS.

THE Editor requests me to send a few
notes from time to time on the fascinat-
ing subject of Carnations, and as a
preface I wish to ask readers to peruse
these notes as being tempered with the
exigencies of a Scottish climate at least
as difficult as that of the Midlands. At this time
of year Perpetuals are by far the most interesting
section, and from which we are reaping the fruits
of a prolonged and exacting attention, while many of
us are preparing for the harvest of anotlter winter.

At the time of writing, the bulk of my own
cuttings are rooted. Propagation begins early
in October, the cuttings receiving stove treat-
ment. Roots are emitted in a week in the case of

ACANTHOLIMON VFNUSTUM, A USEFUL PRICKLY THRIFT FOR THE ROCK GARDEN

aided by a piece of stone to retain the moisture
in the soil, though so far I have not tried this plan.
My own plants originated from root cuttings
about ten inches long, which, after being firmly
planted in the above-mentioned compost, were
tended carefully for some three or four weeks
and have now made quite a nice colony.
It is said to come well from cuttings when
the necessary skill has been attained, while
seed, when it can be procured, is doubtless
the best means of securing strong plants. It
is said to suffer during severe cold, and if
caught by a cold snap while lying wet may
be killed outright. Probably the roof glass
already mentioned, coupled with perfect drainage,
will minimise any untoward accident of this
kind, at least in these more southern counties.
It is a subject worthy of all the care that one
may bestow upon it. R. A. Malbv.

quick-rooting varieties, and generally they are
ready to be potted in a fortnight. The cuttmgs
being so brief a time in the propagating-house,
the soft growth prophesied by some folks as a
result is never apparent. I am fortunate in having
pits just suited to the simple requirements of the
little things. For standing them on, a stone stage,
which keeps them cool at the root and near enough
to the glass to negative etiolation, is an item of
first-rate importance. The ventilation is of a kind
that on fine days air can be admitted to play all
around them, or on cold ones and during high
winds shut off altogether. I know that in spring
many growers bring on young stuff in rather
warmer and less well-ventilated structures, but
during the winter such treatment would inevitably
ruin the plants. By the time this is printed the
best-rooted plants, which are those which have
rooted round the balls, all in 4-inch pots, will

have been topped, the hard, cold treatment being
just the thing to enable them to break strongly
and freely. The other stages of the structiure
in which are the young plants contain the choicest
of the flowering stock, the remainder occupying
a much larger structure along with Chrysanthe-
mums. These are freely ventilated unless the
weather is unsuitable, and a slight heat in the
pipes by night and by day secures a buoyant
and dry atmosphere, the two chief requirements
to hinder the development of leaf-disease, and
they also enable the plants to keep on the move,
though slowly, and the forward buds to expand
in a kindly manner. For the next six weeks —
the most trying in the Carnation cycle — manure,
if applied at all, must be meted out with
great judgment. Nitrogenous manures especially,
which if estimated by the appearance of the
foliage might be concluded to be valuable,
should not be used, a flaccid cgndition of the
flowers, accompanied by a weak calyx
that more often tlian not splits, being
results which follow their use. Another
cause of weakness in some varieties is
the production of too many growths,
which if left without reduction either
do not flower or only yield small
blooms. Lady Alington, May Day,
Mikado, Britannia and Mrs. F. Burnett
are varieties which transgress in this
way, and these should be examined
and tliinned two or three times in the
period from October to May. Those
left in a very short time increase in
vigour. This is a little cultural expe-
dient which is easily overlooked, but it
is a very important one where only one
set of plants is grown to provide an un-
interrupted supply of flowers. In cold
weather lower the temperature to 45°.
Malmaisons must be kept as quiet
as possible until the turn of the year,
the season's layers being kept rather
ilrier at the root than two year old
I'lants. When the latter are allowed
in become and remain dry for too long
1 time at the roots, the old foliage gets
■ lesiccated, turns yellow, has to be
-tripped off the stems, and the plants
' in the whole are much the worse for
the experience. It is just the distinction
between not overdrying the plants and
giving a little too much water that the
enthusiastic grower has to observe. I
standing in the same structure with
Perpetuals, the warmest part and
the least ventilated should be given up to Mal-
maisons. Both sections need to be vaporised at
frequent intervals as a preventive measure against
aphis infestation. Borders established in outdoor
beds may require weeding after the, unusually
fine weather. The spade is an efficient implement
for the purpose at this time of the year. The
method to follow consists in pushing the spade
along about two inches under the soil sinface,
transposing each spadeful so that all the little
weeds are buried deep enough to destroy their
vegetative powers, and at the same time leaving
a surface of clean, fresh soil. Stock being wintered
in frames should be ventilated always. The
severest frost does not harm the plants, but
a stagnant, damp atmosphere does. Care
should be taken that the pots are covered over the
rims to secure them from breakage.

Tyninghame . R. P. Brotherbton.

I

December 13, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

623

SINGLE AND DECORATIVE CHRY-
SANTHEMUMS.

There is a definite chanu and beauty associated
with Chrysanthemums, for they contribute largely
to our pleasure and enjoyment in brightening
our homes and gardens at one of the dullest periods
of the year.

The cultivation of decorative and single Chry-
santhemums does not materially differ from that
generally given the other sections of this family.
They may with advantage be propagated later,
splendid plants being obtained by propagating
in March. A fruitful source of failure is propagating
too early and starving the plants before they reach
their flowering pots. Propagated
at the date named and grown
coolly, giving successive shifts as
the pots become well filled with
roots, and employing loam of good
quality, success is readily assured.
The soil for the final potting is
the most important, and should
consist of four parts good fibrou^
loam, with a third part each oi
leaf-soil, sand and horse-manure,
and a 4-inch potful of soot, bone-
meal and an approved fertiliser,
such as Thomson's, Clay's or
Bentley's, to a well-heaped barrow-
load of soil. The compost should
lie thoroughly mixed and used in
a condition that admits of firm
potting, and, except in the case
of specimen plants, pots having an
internal diameter of 7J inches to
8 inches are quite large enough.

The Best Singles.— One of the

earliest singles to open is Joan
Edwards, a variety with stiff,
erect stems, and flowers of a good
rose shade. Mary Richardson
follows immediately with reddish
salmon flowers of a most attra<'-
tive shade that is particularly
effective under artificial light. This
shade is practically repeated in
Lady Fumess, a variety that flowers
in December, and this scas^in
the plants promise to be exception-
ally good. All the Pagram family
produce good decorative single
flowers. These include Edith Pag-
ram, rich pink, with white zone ;
Mrs. Tresham Gilbey, pure
yellow ; and Bronze Pagram,
reddish bronze: and yellow. Mrs.
W. Gamer is an improved
and larger form of the latter,
while White Pagram gives pure
white flowers. Sylvia Slade is a
particularly showy flower of rose
garnet colour, with an inner ring of
white, after the maimer of a Cine-
raria. Ethel .\shdown is similar to this, but on a
much larger scale. One of the loveliest white flowers
is found in Mensa. These areequallv good disbudded
or in natural sprays. Other good whites include Mrs.
P. Sterling, Stella, Mrs. C. E. Abbott, Robert Thorpe
and Gertrude. Florrie King forms beautiful
flowers of pale flesh pink. Gracie Trower is
lavender pink, and Gracie Lambert a deeper shade
of pink. .Among chestnut shades, Leo, Mrs. W. G.
Patching, Oriental and Walton are particularly
good. This colour is effective as a luncheon-table
decoration, and is equally good under artificial

light. Of dark shades, .•Vrcturus, C. J. Ellis, San-
down Radiance, Belle of Weybridge, Roupell
Beauty, Hale Crimson and Cannell's Crimson
arc all effective colours, aitd cover a season extending
from October till January. Good yellows include
Queenie Jessop, Kitty Bourne, Marchioness of
Cholmondeley, Norah Bramwell, Sharston and
Golden Mensa.

Of Double Varieties that develop good flowers
when grown in natural sprays, the Caprice family
are indispensable, coming into flower in succession
to the outdoor kinds. Kathleen Thomson is one of
the brightest, coloured chestnut crimson, with gold
tips ; Caprice du Printemps, bright rose pink ; and

flowers. Crimson Quintus gives particularly grace-
ful and light sprays of glowing crimson shade.
Mrs. C. Beckett gives white flowers that are tinted
green in the early stages. Mrs. J. H. Silsbury and
Godfrey's King provide beautiful decorative
flowers when grown in bush form and the laterals
disbudded to a single bud. For mid-December
flowering Baldock's Crimson is invaluable, with
flowers of a bright reddish crimson. Matthew
Hodgson, rich crimson ; Framfield Pink, rich
rose ; Christmas Rose, fine shade of pink, in flower
at Christmas ; Mrs. Thomson, white, flowers
sUghtly incurved ; and King of Plumes, a pretty
variety with yellow flowers, the petals being much
. laciniated, give a charming effect
of great lightness.

Thomas Smith.
Coombc Court Gardens.

SCIENCE IN RELA.
TION TO HORTI-
CULTURE.

SINGLE CHRYSANTHEMUM ROBERT THORPE, A BEAUTIFUL VARIETY
WITH WHITE FLOWERS.

Butler's Caprice, an intermediate shade between
the last two. White Cap and Yellow Cap are
similar except in ctilour, which the name indicates.
Market Red follows with flowers of a velvety red ;
Thomas Moore, rich wine red ; Mrs, W. A. Read,
rich bright crimson ; Mrs. Rider Bird, a fine shade
of fawn ; and Freda Bedford, a faultless shade
of pure apricot. Foxhimter gives flowers of a rich
glow'ing crimson shade, resembling the well-known
Mrs. J. H. Silsbury. Dazzler is a deeper shade
of crimson, also having petals of great substance.
West Hall Crimson is stiffer, with reddish crimson

AUTUMN CULTIVATION
OF SOIL.

Wliat is Fertile Soil? — It is

generally recognised that autumn
cultivation of soils has a beneficial
effect upon fertility. Let us con-
sider the subject from the point
of view of the requirements of
crops. It will make the central
facts clearer, perhaps, if we first
of all consider the chief proper-
ties of a fertile soil. It is re-
quired of a good soil that not
only will it afford a safe anchorage
lor the roots of plants, but that it
must give, during the growing sea-
son, a constant supply of water
to the transpiring foliage. Further-
more, it must be able to yield up
to the feeding rootlets all those
different mineral constituents, such
as phosphates and salts of potash,
as well as those simple com-
poimds of nitrogen (nitrates or
salts of ammonia) that are abso-
lutely required by all garden crops.
There is another condition that
is sometimes unremembered by
cultivators, and that is, the
capacity of the soil to hold air, and
yet this is one of the most essen-
tial aids to fertility. Ventilation
is just as important for soils as
it is for ordinary dwellings, as in
the absence of pure air the active
living roots of our ordinary
cultivated plants would sicken and
perish. Moreover, as the oxygen
of the air is used up in the process of respiration,
not only by the roots, but also by the vast popu-
lation of germs that inhabit the soil, certain waste
products of a poisonous nature are produced,
and these must be removed or rendered harmless
if the soil is to be kept fit and sustained at its
highest point of efficiency. Lastly, a fertile soil
must be able to take up the sun's heat and retain it.
Warmth is of supreme importance, and especially
so in spring. If at times the land is too wet, the
heat is absorbed by the useless water, and the
soil remains cold and uncongenial to early growth.

624

THE GARDEN.

[December 13, 1913.

The Value of Digging. — Now, how does culti-
vation affect these conditions of soil fertility ?
The one great mechanical effect of digging is that
it makes the soil finer in grain, and the finer the
grain the greater is its fertility. To appreciate
fully the importance of this fact, let me refer for
a moment to the way the roots of a plant feed.
It is well known that all food taken up from the
soil must be absorbed in solution in water. No
solid particle, however minute, can pass through
the membrane that acts as a covering to the young
roots and root-hairs. But it is a peculiarity of all
tillage plants that their roots are slow to take up
what we may term "loose" water, that is, water
that is free to drain away from the soil. The
water they really take in is the
water that clings to the surface
of each little damp particle of soil,
as such water is more highly
charged with food slowly dis-
solved out of the little solid
mass to which both the film of
water and root-hair are so closely
attached. Ordinary digging tends
to break up the soil into a finer
mechanical condition, and so
tends to increase its water-holding
power.

Autumn Cultivation carries
the crumbling process much fur-
ther, especially in the case of
heavy or stiff soils. By throwing
up the soil in rough ridges, the
frosts of winter, by freezing (and
therefore e.\panding) the water
within the pores of the soil,
causes the coarse lumps of soil
to swell, and because of this
pushing apart of its particles,
cohesion is weakened and their
former closeness of texture is
destroyed. The ridges quickly
dry out in the March winds, and
are easily pulverised when spring
operations begin in the garden.
This expansive force of freezing
water is, by far, the most
powerful agent at the gardener's
disposal for the breaking down
of lumpy soil, and so for con-
verting it into a mellow and
kindly workable condition, and
neglect of this relatively cheap
and easy method of increasing
fertility is a refusal to take advan-
tage of one of Nature's most
generous offers to aid the gardener
in his efforts to secure the best
services of the soil in the bountiful
production of crops.

Cultivation and Fertility. — Having thus briefly
referred to the method by which the soil may be
reduced to a fine condition, we may now consider
a few of the advantages arising from such work.
But first it may be well to remark that a gardener
should always remember to think in terms of
area of soil particles available for exploitation by
roots, rather than in terms of superficial area of
his garden. A well-tilled plot of a rood area may
be quite as productive as a badly-tilled plot of an
acre, as it all really depends upon the fineness of
the soil. A little hard cube of soil will have six
sides or surfaces. If it is broken in two, the six
sides become twelve, and if these two are again
divided, there will be twenty-four sides, over each

of which a water film can cling, and so the work
of dissolving out plant food substances from the
soil can be extended over four times a greater
area in the last-mentioned case than in the first.
In fact, a cubic foot of soil such as is used for
potting purposes represents in reality about an
acre of absorbing area for roots. As long ago as
the year 1733 the father of tillage husbandry,
Jethro TuU, when advocating the thorough culti-
vation of soils, referred to this extension of the
absorptive area as the " root-pasturage," and
so in sober truth it is. Remembering that all
garden soils contain practically an imexhaustible
supply of plant food, if only it could be made
available, and also that the only natural way

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Chrysanttiemum Maud Jeffries. — A decorative
Japanese variety of the purest white, and one of
the most valuable of these for late flowering and
conservatory decoration. A large group in small
pots was sent by Colonel the Right Hon. Mark
Lockwood, C.V.O., M.P., Bishop's Hall, Romford
(gardener, Mr. CradduckJ.

Violet Kaiser Wilhelm. — A large and spreading

flower, paler in colour than La France, with sweet

perfume. The variety has very long stalks, and is

quite distinct. Shownby. Mr. T.Johnson, Shaftesbury.

Chrysanthemum Cardinal. — A

single-flowered sort of rich briglit
crimson colour, with big, con-
spicuous, golden yellow centre.
Not more than 2 J feet high as
shown. The rich colouring is
brilliantly effective in the fullest
light. From Messrs. James Veitch
and Sons, Limited, Chelsea.

Begonia Rosalind. — This
newest addition to the winter-
flowering section is a great gain
in colour, which is pure rose, the
only one, we believe, of this
precise shade. It is possessed of
the same dwarf habit and free-
dom of flowering as Syros and
Emita, and will make for these
a good companion plant. It was
raised from B. socotrana and a
white - flowered, tuberous - rooted
variety. From Messrs. Veitch and
Sons, Limited, Chelsea.

Chrysanthemum Commodore. —

A fine crirason-coloured, single-
flowered variety of good size and
substance, though less brilliant
than Cardinal. From Mr. T.
Stevenson, gardener to E. Mocatta,
Esq., Woburn Place, Addlestone.
Primula malacoides fl.-pl. —

Just a ienii-double-flowcred form
of the now well known and de-
servedly popular Chinese species,
varying nothing in colour, habit
of growth or freedom of flowering.
This and the type make ideal
pot plants for the cool greenhouse.
From Bees, Limited, Liverpool.

THE NEW DOUBLE-FLOWERED VARIETY OF PRIMUL.\ MALACOIDES.

in which it can be so made ready for the roots is
through the dissolving action of tightly-clinging
water films, it follows that fining the soil is equal
in effect to manuring it. Furthermore, such
thorough cultivation, by increasing not only the
water-holding power of the soil, but also its air-
holding capacity, encourages the growth and general
activity of useful bacteria in the soil, and especially
such forms as are engaged in the work of nitrifica-
tion. Closely associated with this metliod of soil
improvement is the important question of liming ;
but a consideration of this particular aid to fertility
must be held ovei' as the subject of the next article.

David Housto.n.
Ruyat CuUege oj Science, Dublin.

NEW ORCHIDS.

The choicest uf novelties was
seen in the lovely Cattleya named
Maggie Raphael The Dell Variety,
sent by Baron Schroder. The flowers
were ivory white, save for the lip, which was royal
purple, with gold markings in the throat. It was
unanimously granted a first-class certificate. Each of
the following received an award of merit : Cattleya
Mrs. Temple variety Dreadnought, from Mr.
C. J. Phillips, Sevenoaks ; Cypripediums Goliath
and Strelsa, from Mr. W. R. Lee, Heywood, Lanes ;
Laelio-Cattleya Auto-Doin, from Messrs. J. and A.
McBean ; Odontioda Latona Goodson's Variety,
shown by Mr. H. S. Guodson of Putney ; and
Odontoglossum Saturne violaceum, sent by M.
Henri Graire, Amiens.

The foregoing novelties were shown before the
Royal Horticultural Society at the meeting held
on December 2.

December x3, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

625

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS

THE AMATEUR'S GREENHOUSE IN WINTER.

THE furnisliing of tlic gieenlioiise or
conservatory during the winter months
is a comparatively easy matter in
an estabhshment where propagating
and growing houses are at command
to keep up regular supplies of flowering
plants. The amateur, as a rule having no such auxi-
liary houses from which to draw his supplies, must
to a great extent rely on plants that can be grown
outdoors during the summer months, or possibly
on what he can produce with the aid of a few cold
frames ; nevertheless, even with such limited
means, a good variety of plants can be produced
for the winter embellishment of the greenhouse.
It is a great advantage if a hot-bed of
leaves and stable manure can be used
for the raising of seedlings and cuttings
during early spring. In such a frame,
or even in the greenhouse itself, such
plants as Cinerarias, Chinese Primulas.
Primula obconica, P. malacoides. Chry-
santhemums and Salvias for late autumn
and winter flowering can easily be
raised.

The Cinerarias and Primulas can
be grown in cold frames all the
smnmer and removed indoors in the
autumn. Such plants as Chrysanthe-
mums and winter-flowering Salvias,
which pass their initial stages in the
greenhouse or cold frames, are stood
outdoors all the summer ; in fact, some
of the later-flowering Chrysanthemums
may stand out at the bottom of a wall
until the beginning of November,
especially if a piece of scrim canvas is
placed over them at night. Here I
would advise amateurs to grow a
quantity of Chrysanthemums in 6-inch
pots, rooting the cuttings about the
middle of March. The Caprice du
Printemps type, such as Kathleen
Thompson and White and Yellow Cap,
are very suitable for this purpose, as
also are many of the single-flowered
sorts that are now so popular. Darenth
Jewel, Norma, Miss OUve Prater, Robert
Thorpe and Mary Richardson are all
good sorts.

Cyclamen are very useful for the greenhouse,
as they produce their flowers for a period of several
months. They are generally sown during August
of the previous year ; but the amateur would do
weU to sow earlier, say, about the middle of July.
Tills would give stronger plants for the winter, a
great advantage where not much heat is at command.
The following spring they can be rernoved to a cold
frame and be grown there all the summer.

Arum Lilies are favourite subjects, and
have the advantage of being able to be grown
outdoors all the summer and dried off and
potted up again at the end of the summer, or they
can be planted out and lifted during the autumn.
Tills latter method is a distinct advantage for
the amateur, as he thus starts the winter with a
, good ready-grown plant, which, with liberal feeding,
will produce flowers for several months. The
accompanying illustration depicts a pretty arrange-
ment of .Arum Lilies and the blue ivinter-flowering

Coleus thyrsoideus, with plants of Magnolia con-
spicua at the back.- The Coleus can be raised from
seed during the spring or from cuttings put in about
the beginning of June, and should be grown in
a cool greenhouse during the summer. It requires
careful attention as regards watering, as it is apt
to lose its lower leaves if neglected in this respect.
Bulbs are very useful for winter and early spring
flowering. The most popular are Freesias, Narcissi
(especially the Paper-White Narcissus, which can
be had in flower from November onwards), Roman
Hyacinths and the large florists' varieties, and Tulips
of various sorts, starting with Van Thols, other good
early sorts being Vermilion Brilliant, Moii Tresor,

to them during tlie winter. The same applies
to the Cape or Scented-leaved section, which arc
favourites with many amateurs, as also arc Cactus
or succulent plants, which require very little water
in the winter. During that period all watering,
as far as possible, should be done in the morning.

Foliage Plants. — Quite a variety of beautiful
foliage plants can be grown in the cool greenhouse,
and many of them prove useful for the decoration
of the dwelling-house. Chief among them are
such plants as .'Aspidistra, .•\sparagus plumosus,
.■\, Sprengeri (this is good for baskets), Cy-
perus alteinifolius, Cordyline australis in several
varieties, and C. stricta. Many cool - house as

ARUM LILIES, COLEUS

THYRSOIDEUS AND MAGNOLIA STELLATA
IN THE GREENHOUSE.

GROUPED 1-OR WINTER EFFECT

Keizerskroon and King of the Yellows. Good early-
flowering sorts of Narcissi other than the Paper-
White are Henry Irving, Golden Spur, Van Sion, ob-
vallaris, Horsfieldii,SirWatkin andodorusrugulosus.

Success in flowering bulbs early depends to a
great extent on their being well rooted, and that
means they must be potted early, Freesias
and early Narcissi should be potted from the
middle to the end of August, and Tulips from the
beginning to the middle of September. They
should be stood outdoors and covered with well-
weathered ashes, leaf-soil or Cocoanut fibre until
they are well rooted, when they should be removed
to the cold frame or cool greenhouse.

Clivias are useful plants, and are quite happy
in a cool greenhouse, keeping them on the dry side
during the winter. Pelargoniums of the Zonal
type should be given the driest and warmest
part of the house and not be over watered,
for too much moisture at the root proves fatal

well as hardy Ferns prove very useful for
the amateur's greenhouse during the winter.
Helxine Solieroli is very useful for draping the
edge of the stage. Azaleas of the indica type
are very useful, especially such as Deutsche Perle,
which can easily be had in flower by Christmas,
Bouvardias, Acacias and various Heaths are useful
for winter flowering, while a few plants of Boronia
megastigma should be grown for the sake of their
fragrant flowers. Such plants can be purchased
very cheaply every season, as they are slow and
difficult to grow from their initial stages. Speaking
generally, the larger flowering shrubs, such as
Magnolias (shown in the illustration), Prunuses,
Rhododendrons and the like, cannot be accom-
modated in the small greenhouse, at the same time
.\zalea Deutsche Perle andsimilar varieties, together
with Deutzias, Bouvardias and innumerable Heaths
should find a place in the amateur's greenhouse,
however small it may be. J. C.

626

THE GARDEN.

[December 13, 1913-

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR

SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Pleasure Grounds.

Tree Felling. — Carr is necessary iii taking
down large trees, and it is wise to employ ex-
perienced men for such a purpose rather than to
risk damaging the surrounding trees which one
is endeavouring to maintain in good condition.

Care of Trees. — Old trees should he systemati-
cally gone through every two or three years, remov-
ing any dead wood that may be in them. This
is especially necessary if they are situated where
they may be used for sitting under during the
summer months. Such trees as Weeping Birch,
Beech and Ash must, naturally, be left, so that
the trees develop and exhibit their pendulous
habit of growth ; but other trees that- have a
good spread of branches may with advantage be
trimmed a fair distance up the main stem,
thus allowing air to penetrate beneath them.
By doing this the grass may be kept in fair
condition by manuring; but where the branches
are allowed to come too near the ground, the
grass will naturally die and thus prove an eyesore.

Plants Under Glass.
Perpetual-Flowering Carnations.— These have

bloomed well during the autumn, no doubt owing
to the mild, open weather. Go over the plants
as often as may be necessary, tying in the young
growths and disbudding the bloom-buds to one to
each shoot. Under certain conditions the surface
of the soil is apt to get a little green at this season
of the year, but an occasional scratch over with
a label or something similar should keep it
clean. If allowed to accumulate it robs the roots
of much necessary air, and the plants are apt to
become sickly.

Primulas. — These arc now making a good show —
at least the earlier batches — and, to keep them
throwing up stronglv, an occasional sprinkling of
Clay's Fertilizer may be given. This adds colour
to both flowers and foliage. Valsol, also, I find
a good manure at this season, but it must be used
very sparingly.

Begonias Gloire de Lorraine. — These appear

to be lacking in colour in many places this autunan,
and I cannot help thinking that if they were given
a little less heat as the flowers open and a little
manure as advised for the Primulas, they would
not be so insipid in appearance. Plants that have
been in bloom some time should have the stale
blooms removed, as these only tend to make the
plants hiok dull and of poor colour.

Bouvardias. — The older plants of Bouvirdias
in many instances will be going out of ffower, and
unless there is sufficient young growth coming along
that is likely to produce bloom to warrant their
remaining in the intermediate house, they should
be removed to a cool one. The younger plants
are usually more continuous in growth, so they
should be kept going to provide material for
button-holes or for small vase work, for which
purposes they are very useful.

Gardenias. — These are much appreciated during
the winter months, and plants that are pushing
their flower-buds must be fairly liberally treated,
both as regards heat and moisture, to ensure
their opening kindly. Too low a temperature
at night after the buds reach a certain stage often
tends to make them drop. As these plants are
very liable to be troubled with insect pests, they
must be periodically sprayed with an insecticide
to keep them down.

The Vegetable Garden.

I have already advised in these columns the
necessity of pushing on with all groundwork- while
the weather is open, but it must be borne in mind
that some soils are very much better left alone if
in a very wet condition, this applying generally
to very heavy soil, and I find that here" in the Thames
Valley, where the ground is sometimes apt to
be flooded, trenching in the month of February
is often more remimerative than autumn trenching.
In the event of very severe weather, manure and
leaves should be wheeled on to the ground, and
even if the ground is hard only for an hour or two
in the morning, it is advisable to do this work then
rather than when it is soft, and thus avoid cutting

up paths and making a mess generally. Further
heaps of hot-bed material also may be prepared,
as with the turn of the year it will be necessary
to get many of the early vegetables on the move.

Fruits Under Glass.

Peach-Houses. — Bv this date all the Peach
trees should be quite ready tor pruning, though I
have found the leaves hang much longer this season
than ever before. The cleansing of the trees and
the houses must be continued as time permits,
as even late Peaches are apt to push their buds
quite earlv in the year, and it is advisable to get
the work finished before the trees reach this stage.

Vine Borders in newly-planted houses that
need extension should be attended to as early as
possible. Wherever it is convenient, the soil should
be prepared under cover, so that, when it is beuig
put on, it is not in too wet a condition. Soil in
a sodden state is apt to go sour, especially if it
is trodden in as firmly as is desirable. Frozen soil
also should be avoided. Too large a mass of soil
added to a border is also undesirable, a foot or
18 inches in width being quite sufficient at a time,
as, once the border is completed, the only means
of enriching it is by annual top-dressings, and by
this means it can quickly become too high for
practical purposes.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Pruning. — After the shifting and planting are
completed, a start should be made with the pruning,
preferably with the wall trees, and too great care
cannot be exercised in this direction, as in many
instances the different varieties of Apples and
Pears need a very different system of pruning. It
is quite advisable for the head-gardener to super-
intend this work himself, unless he has a man who
is thoroughly well up to the work and understands
the requirements of the individual varieties.
An effort should always be made te keep the spurs
on the wall trees as short as possible, there
being nothing gained in allowing these to become
long. If a fruit-bud or two can be secured near
the base of the spur, the rest may be cut away
with advantage ; in fact, where the spurs are
pretty close together, here and there one may be
cut back to a wood-bud each season to keep up
the supply of young spurs.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Wohum Place Gardens, Addlesione, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Erica carnea. — This precocious Heath, flower-
ing from February to May, should be freely planted,
not only in the Heath garden, but along the edges
of mixed beds and borders of herbaceous flowers.
I once saw a bed entirely filled with it in a Fife-
shire garden on a lawn, and although it is over
thirty years ago, the impression produced on my
mind has never faded from my memory. Unlike
Heaths generally, it is not at all particular as to
soil ; but if a little peat or flaky leaf-mould .and
sand can be given to it, it will be grateful for the
attention. It can be planted now in open weather.
The white variety, generally known as E. herbacea,
is also very attractive.

Propagating-Boxes. — Those situated near centres
of population can often get disused dry fish boxes
ready to hand very cheaply, or it may be a type
of box which can 'be sawn in two longitudinally,
and thus form two useful boxes, with the lid nailed
on one-half to form a bottom. Where boxes
have to be made, three-quarter-inch planks should
be used, and a suitable size for most purposes
is 30 inches by 15 inches by 4 inches. Of course,
light plants like Lobelias do quite well with a
depth of 3 inches, while East Lothian Stocks
require about double that depth. Give them
ample drainage.

The Rose Garden.

Forming Pergolas. — Climbing Roses, and
especially the wichuraianas, can be grown in a
varietv of forms, and the pergola is one of the
most pleasing in every way. Although the hard-
woods produce the mo'st natural effects for pergola

construction, yet, with the exception of the Oak,
they arc not verv durable, and if I had a choice
I would use Larch or Oak. The paved pathway
is perhaps as good as any, laid irregularly. Above
all, a sufficient root-run of good, deeply-wrought
soil must be provided for the Roses, 01 good results
need not be looked for.

Plants Under Glass.
Chrysanthemums. — All plants as they go out

of blocmr should be cut over, and the plants placed
in as light a position as possible to ensure firm
cuttings. These remarks, of course, chiefly refer
to the singles and decoratives. Some of the
large-flowered Japanese varieties are very shy in
producing cuttings, and where sufficient stock has
not been received of any of these, the surface soil
should be carefully pricked over, and the plants
receive a ti.ip-dressing of rich soil to encourage
the production of cuttings.

Potting Liliimi auratum.— After the bulbs

come to hand, no time should be lost in potting
them up. For single bulbs, pots 7 inches or
8 inches in diameter (according to the size of the
bulb) should be used. Drain the pots thoroughly,
and use a compost of turfy loam and peat, flaky
leaf-mould, dry horse-manure and sharp, clean
sand, all in about equal proportions. Use the
whole in a rather rough state, pot loosely, and
leave ample room for subsequent top-dressing.
Give a slight watering and keep rather dry till
growth commences. Place in a cool pit or frame.
Forcing Plants. — Batches of these should be
introduced to the forcing-house from time to time,
placing those newly introduced in the cooler end
of the house. Tulips should be shaded from the
light till the flower-stems are a good length, other-
wise they will be short and dumpy. Do not
allow the night temperature to rise much above
60". Damp the hmisc about midday with a fine
spray.

Fruits Under Glass.

Early Strawberries. — Where ripe fruits are
wanted by the middle of March, a small batch
may now be introduced to the forcing-house.
The plants should be taken to the polting-
bench and all decayed foliage be removed. The
drainage ought then to be seen to, and where the
surface soil looks sour the plant should be
turned out, the drainage rectified and the plant
carefully returned to its pot. The surface soil
of the whole batch, must then be pricked with a
stick, after which the plants ought to receive a
surface-dressing with horse-manure, which should
be watered in. Place the plants in the forcing-
house and maintain a minimum temperature of
from 45° to 50°, with a rise of from 5° to 10° during
the day.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Supporting Bush Fruits. — On heavy, rich

soils, and especially in the vicinity of trees, certain
varieties of Gooseberries and Currants are apt
to lurch over. Any such should have attention as
soon as the bushes have been pruned and the weather
permits. Prepare a sufficient number of forked
branches of moderate thickness ; then ease the
soil at the neck of the bush with a digging fork,
replace the bush in a perpendicular position, and
on the side to which the bush is inclined insert
the single end of the support in the ground at a
slight angle, fit the fork under the most con-
venient lower branch, and firm up the soil round
the neck again.

Pruning and Training Wall Trees.— This

work should be pushed through as speedily as
possible, as we generally get our severest weather
during January and I'ebruary.

The Vegetable Garden.
Rhubarb and Sealtale. — Batches of these

should be introduced to heat to be forced from
time to time.

Foot-Scrapers.— There should be a plentiful
supply of these in the garden. A useful home-
made'scraper can be produced as follows : Procure
two pieces of Redwood 3 inches by 2 inches, point
and tar them, drive them fully halfway into the
ground at about a foot apart, make an incision
about one and a-half inches deep on the top of .
both simultaneously with a saw, then force a
liglit bar of iron ciit to the required length into
each incision, and the foot-scraper is finished.

Charles Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

December 13, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

627

GARDENING ACROSTICS.

A s .luiiouiiced in our issue for November 2.;,

f\ we are publishing eight gardening

/ % aorostics, to be divided into two sets of

/ % t<uir each. Each light correctly guessed

* ^ will count one, and also each " first "

and each " last." Thus, supposing

I 111' wliiilr IS China (firsts), .Aster (lasts), the

lull marks will be seven — one for China, one

lor .Aster, and one for each of the five lights

I C . . . .-\. H . . . S, 1 . . . T, N . . . E and

.\ . . . R. Hence, suppose a competitor got

everything right but the light I ... T, he would

count six, and it would not matter if he attempted

to solve that particular light or not.

Those entering for the arrostirs must observe
I lie rules published nii pai^e 607 of last week's

DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. 2.

l-'irsts — Two fruits are more than brothers. I
am the " Esau."

Lasts — A succulent apocarpous fruit — sometimes
red and sometimes yellow — e.g.. Yellow .Antwerp
and Red .Antwerp.

1. .A small genus of aquatic herbaceous plants

with yellow flowers, natives of the northern
temperate hemisphere.

2. A once-popular genus of hard-wooded South

.African evergreen shrubs.

3. One of the heaviest, oldest and best flavoured

of the white " berries " of show-land.
\. " Avec les curieux elle passe pour I'lmp^ra-
trice des fleurs et la plus belle production
de la Nature."

5. A race who stamped out the Vine, but intro-

dnred the Lemon and the Orange.

6. .Although I had fed millions for generations,

I was not a " world product " until after
my introduction to the New World.

7. Ill an epigynous flower, what is the position

of the ovary ?

8. Pearls in an imperial crown.

y. What is obtained from Diospyros ebenum ?

Solutions of the above must be sent so as to reach
the Editor at zo, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden,
London, W.C, not later than the first post on Saturday,
December 20. Mark the envelope "Acrostic " in
the top left-hand corner.

THE EDITOR'S TABLE.

Hardy Flowers from South-West Scotland.—

Mr. R. I'lndlay, Logan, Stranraer, sends a box
of shrubby Veronicas and a hardy Eupatorium
which are now flowering well in many gardens.
The flowering spikes, remarkable for their fresh-
ness, were sent on November 28 with the following
note : " I have the pleasure of sending you by
post a few sprays of Veronica and also of Eupatorium
wienmannianum. They were all cut from the
open garden to-day. The plants of Veronicas
are quite a sight at present. Gauntlettii and
meldrumensis are the freest to flower here in
autumn. 1 am sorry there is no flower on Veronica
macrocarpa, which is one of the very best. These
late-flowering shrubs are so useful in this mild
district in grey November. Eupatorium wienmanni-
,inum has done verv well this vear."

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

AN IDKAL ORCHARD FOR A SMALL
COTTAC;].- HOLDING.

Manuring the Soil for Young Trees Before
Planting. — .A word as to the economy or other-
wise of this custom. The o^iject the planter should
set out before him is the production of that sort
of shoot growth on his trees which will secure to
him the best and heaviest crops of fruit. The
question will naturally be asked, " What sort of
growth is this important growth in which we are
in quest of ? " I answer that it is that growth
of moderate strength, neither too strong nor too
weak. Such a growth as this is matured and
hardened fairly early in the season, affording
ample time in late summer and autumn for the
plumping up and ripening of fruit-spurs and
flower-buds ; whereas, if the growth is overstrong,
the chances arc that in our short summers it will
often be found difficult, and sometimes imp<issible,
to properly ripen such wood, with the usual result
of barren trees and branch growth stronger than
ever, needing recourse in a few years' time to
root-pruning before such trees can be brought
to a fertile condition. On the other hand, too
weak a growth is a loss on all sides, and leads only
to failure. Therefore, as I pointed out before,
the safe course to follow is to forbear to manure
on good, deep loams, and to manure moderately
on lighter and poorer land.

Distances Apart at which Trees Should be
Planted. — The trees which pay best to grow
(not speaking of bush trees) are Apples and Plums,
and the best way to plant these is to put them
alternately in the row, for the reason that Apple
trees live longer, make larger trees and remain
longer in profit than do Plum trees. The Plum
trees, when signs of failure or decay set in, can
be grubbed up and the extra space given to the
•Apple trees, of which by then they wUI have need.
I advise that the .Apple trees (standards) be planted
20 feet apart in the row ; this will take fifty-four
trees to the half-.acre. Of Plum trees, which should
be planted between the Apple trees in the rows,
there will also be fifty-four trees, making in all
ro8 standard trees for the orchard. The distance
between the rows of .Apple and Plum trees should
also be 20 feet. This space for many years over
the greater part of the orchard may be profitably
planted with bush fruit trees. Of these I will
speak later.

Planting the Standard Trees. — The holes or

spaces for planting being ni.iw ready to receive
the trees, let us consider for a moment the points
to look for in a healthy, promising young tree.
It will be time well spent and space economically
used, as unless your trees are of the best at the
start, it is hopeless to expect success in after years.
In the first place, I would say, purchase your
trees of a responsible firm of fruit tree growers
with a reputation to maintain. On no account
have anything to do with cast-away trees sold
at auction sales. Usually they would prove
too dear at a gift. Go and select the trees yourself
if - ou can and are competent to choose the best ;
if you are not, take a friend with you who is.
Choose a standard tree with a straight, young
stem with a clean, shiny and a healthy-looking
bark. A tree with bark which appears dry and
cracking in many places, with twists and big knots
on its stem, you must fight shy of. Three year
old trees from the time of grafting or budding
are the best to plant. " By then they will have

fair-sized heads already formed, and a foundation
laid for a permanent system of branches by those
who are skilled in the work.

Planting the Trees. — Let the soil already in
the holf's In' forked over a few inches deep ; then
prepare a bed to lay the tree in. This is done bv
forking out a hole in the middle slightlv larger
than the roots of the tree when slightly shortened
will occupy. This should be about ten inches
deep and slightly concave in form, the object in
view being that the ends of the roots should have
a tendency to grow upwards rather than down-
wards, surface roots being of so much more import-
ance in fruit production than are roots pointing
down towards the subsoil. See that the bottom
of the hole is firmly trodden down to receive the
tree, choosing a dry, fine day for planting. Do
not plant in wet weather. The next thing to do
is to take the tree in the left hand, and with a sharp
knife shorten its roots — the stronger ones, if
they are above a foot in length, to shorten to this
length, and the smaller and finer roots to have
their tip ends only shortened, any broken or
damaged roots to be cut back below the damaged
parts. There is a right and a wrong way of cutting
these roots. The right way is to cut them so that
the cut side will face upwards, not downwards.
The young roots formed next summer from the cut
part facing upwards will have a tendency to grow
upwards, and those formed on the part facing
downwards would have a tendency to grow down-
Wards, with detrimental results, as pointed out
above. Press the tree gently into the centre of
the hole, and then carefully cover in the roots with
the finest of the soil in the first place, filling all
open crevices with the hand. Arrange for the
larger and lumpy pieces to be placed round the
sides. The new roots made in the spring and
summer will soon find them out, and greatly benefit
as a result. When the hole is filled, tread the
soil firmly down. Its surface should be an inch
lower than the level of the surrounding land. Too
deep planting must be avoided, and the best way
of doing so is to plant the trees the same depth
as they were previously planted in the nursery.
This is always plainly indicated on the bark of
the tree by a dark ring at a point which was
previously level with the surface soil ; but, as a
rule, ro inches deep is the correct depth to plant.

Mulching the Trees. — A mulch, 3 inches deep,
of well-rotted manure should be placed on the
surface of the soil round each tree as far as its
roots are supposed to extend. The essence of
this manure will be washed to the roots by winter
rains, enriching the surface soil and encoura.'jing
the formation of many indispensable surface roots.
This mulch should be slightly added to in April.
It will be invaluable in reducing evaporation
from the soil, in keeping the soil moist, and in
feeding the surface roots during summer.

Staking the Trees. — Strong stakes that will
keep the trees well in position, and that will
last for at least three or four years, should be
used. They should be as long as the stems of the
trees and be secured to the trees by three ties, one
within 2 feet of the bottom, one in the middle, and
one within 3 inches of the top. There is nothing
better with which to tie the trees than moderately
thin tarred twine. The twine should be first
coiled round the stake before it is placed round
the stem. This will secure the tie in position,
preventing it from slipping either up or down.
A thin strip of cloth an inch wide should
be coiled round the stem of the tree where the
ties arc to protect the bark against injury from

628

THE GARDEN.

[December 13, 191.;.

tying. During the following summer these tics
should be examined to see they are not too tight,
as the stems of healthy young trees swell rapidly.
The foregoing treatment applies to both Apple and
Plum trees. Owen Thomas, V.M.H.

(To be- contiuncil.)

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS,

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAc EiMor intends to
make 'L'he G.\iii>en IwJpiiif to nil readers who desire a^sisl-
tlnce, iw Matter uhut the brunch of gardmimj may he. and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. AH communications should be
c.learlij and covciseltj written on one side of the paper onli/,
and addressed to the EDITOU of THF. G.VRUKN, 2n, Tavistock
Street. Cot'cnt Garden. London. W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to nni/ ilesifmation he
may desire to he used in the paper. When more than one
querii is sent, each should lie on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naminrj should be clearlii numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and ftowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps thai are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.

THE GREENHOUSE.

SALVIA NEMOROSA VIRGATA (£. B ). Th.' plant
would bi' quite safe in the licrbacfDUs border, though
its sriatiT beauty \vo\ild. wi- think, be best revealed by
planting it in a group or bed apart.

NAMES OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS (L. ,1. 7/.).— \Vc
are iilile til luuiie several of tlie varieties you have sent
us ; those we have not rtanied are niueh out of character.
No! 1. White y\iintus ; No. 2, Bronze Soleil d'Octobre ;
Nos. 3 and 6, not known ; No. 4, Commandant Blusset ;
No h O. J. Quintus ; No. 7, sport from La Triomphante ;
No. 8, La Triomphante ; No. 9, Yellow Triomphante (sport
from La Triomphante) ; No. in. not known, very poor
quality. It is very difficult to name Chrysanthemums
unless they have foliage as well as bloom on the spray
sent us.

PRIMULA OBCONICA FAILING (Ecton).^.K difficult
question til answer, jjartieularly as you do not mention
whether any otlier plants are as.sociated with the Primulas,
and if so, whether they are similarly affected. A tempera-
ture of about 60° — that is, if the thermometer goes beyond
it at times — seems rather too warm. We should also
consider that once a fortnight is quite sufficient to feed
the jilants. Is there any means of sulphur fumes getting
into the structure in which are the plants ? We do not
think the presence of iron in the soil would affect the
Howers of your Primulas, for, as you say, the plants them-
selves arc in good condition.

A SUPPOSED YELLOW CHRYSANTHEMUM SPORT
(TF. F. II. i- — We liaM' carefully looked into the colour
and character of the flower which you have been good
enough to send us. Although you say it is a sport
from Miss Maud Jetferies, we are disposed to think it is
identical with F. S. Vallis respectively in colour, foliage
and form, and we would advise you to make a comparison
with blooms, &c., of that variety if you grow it. Y'ou
should give the plants good crrltivation next season, and
send the resnltiui; Honins to the floral committee of the
National Chrvsaiitlieiinini Society, who will quickly
determine its wortli and ilistinctiveness.

FAIRY-RING SPOT ON CARNATIONS (.1. C.).— This
is caused on Carnations liy a cold, damp atmosphere,
hence the autumn of the year is more favourable to its
development, and plants growir in a low situation are
more readily affected than those grown in an elevated
one. Britannia is, perhaps, more subject to this disease
than any other variety, and all varieties such as Lady
Alington which have Britannia blood in them have
the same fault. Fairy-ring spot cannot flourish in a
greenhouse where the atninsphere is dry and buoyant.
it is most essential to n movr the affected leaves, as the
disease spreads so rapidly, but if the plants are dusted
with a mixture of half flowers of sulphur and half air-
slaked lime its development is checked, and \inder the
right atmospheric conditions it will be exterminated.
In bright weather the disease can be destroyed by syringing
the plants witli a mixture of suli>hiiie of imtassium and
soft soai), but rain-water must bi^ used.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

SPINACH AND SLUGS (M. H.).— We .supposi- there is
no doubt your Spinach has been destroyed by slugs ;
millipedes are often very troublesome with that crop.
The liming fusing powdered quicklime) will do more than
anyt fling else tu destroy tiie slugs, and dusting with lime, or
even with ashes, will render the plants obnoxious to them.
It would he well to try watering the plants affected (and
the soil about them) with permanganate of potash, loz.
to one gallon of water.

INJURY TO CELERY AND PARSNIPS (.Rosebud).-
I'ake care that al! the Celery and Parsiup refuse is burnt,
not allowed to remain on the soil. Treat the soil w'ith
kainit when digging and bury the top deeply. Plant
the Celery lui another site as far away from this as possible
next year, and make sure the young plants are kept clean
by spraying them with paraffin enuilsion at intervals
ihiring their growtli. We do not think there is anything
very greativ aiui-^s with the Calceolarias, and what is wrong
is mostly diie til slightly uncongenial surroundings. Avoid
drauglit's and take great care over the watering. Iveep
a sharp look-out for aphis attack, and fumigate on its first
appearance.

SPANISH CARDOON (t. H.).— This plant is known
iLiiiler the seirntilie name of Cynara Cardunenlus, and is
closely allied to flir (Jlobe .\rtichoke. There is no speciat
date by which the plant ought to be ready for use, and it
is usual in places where it is grown largely as a vegetable
for the crop to be so arranged that the plants will mature
at intervals of a few weeks from early October onwards.
.KX the approach of frost, the plants are taken up and
stored in a frost-proof shed or cellar. The earliest crop
is usually from seed sown indoors in February or March,
the (ilants being jtlaeed in the open in May. Later crops
may lie raised friim seed sown out of doors in .May. The
finishing of the crop may be determined to some extent
by the time of earthing up. .\s a rule, about three weeks
arc allowed between earthing up and digging. This is
considered qnite long enough for blanching purimses.

MISCELLANEOUS.

FUNGUS TO NAME iR>irkriii„r,l). tlie fungns you
send is Otidea aurautia. often eallnl I'eziza aurantia.
If is Mot rare.

INJURY TO AN ANTIRRHINUM ( Z'. B.). ihe
Antirrhinum is aiqiarently attaeked by a fungus, but tlie
plants arrived in sueli a drii'dup enndition that we could
make out nothing satisfactorily. Will you send ns a
few more packed in a tin box, in order that we may make
a careful examination of them ? We shall then probably
be able to suggest a remedy.

HORSESHOE FERN (Mrs. J. B. i.).— We regret that
wr are iinaequainfed with a Kern known as Horseshoe
Fern, but if you could send us a leaf we should have
great pleasure in identifying it. and could then advise
vou as to the cultural details. In the meantime, as it
is a native of New Zealand, there is little doubt but that
it will thri\e under the conditions you describe as having
been found suitable for othi'r Ferns.

MANURE FOR LAWN (i. .1.).— Your lawns may be
given a good dressing of well-decayed horse-manure
with a dressing of basic slag, the latter being used at the
rate of 4oz. to the square yard, .A further dressing of
hone-meal may be given in spring, using it at the rate of
4oz. to the square yard. Lawn sand sown over the grass
in spring will probably destroy many of the weeds, but
more good will be done by the manure encouraging the
grass to outgrow the weeds. Some of the coarser weeds,
such as the Plantains, might be uprooted now before the
manure is aiqiliid,

CELERY INFESTED {J. .7.).— The old saying that a
.stitch in time saves nine was never more true than in the
case of the maggot of the Celery fly, for it is scarcely
possible to get rid of it after it has lodged itself between
the two surfaces of the leaf, as it does at this stage. The
best way to make the best of a bad job is to clear away
all the worst of the outside bottom leaves, afterwards
dredge the plants with soot (not in large quantity I. and flu n
to earth up. To prevent an attack, dust the plants sfiglitly
over every ten (lavs during the whole of tlie umnth of
June, while the Celery fly is" about. This will prevint the
fly lodging in the leaves to deposit its eggs, and save your
plants from injury later.

VARIOUS QUESTIONS {F. W. H.).— We do not recognise
the pests to which vou refer, but would advise you to
remove the plants from the frame and thickly sprinkle
the bottom with flue unslaked lime. The sides of the
frame may be given a coating of whitewash made of
unslaked lime, and applied while still hot. This should
serve to eradicate the pests. At the same time, an occa-
sional investigation by the light of a lantern when dark
may reveal other enemies than those which you have
noticed. The Daffodils should certainly be at once taken
inside. If the leaves have appeared through 6 inches of
soil, they an' almost sure to be so weak at the base that
snnie support will be needed.

WEEDS ON LAWN (E. G. P. H.).--Therc is nothing
about the specimens of turf sent for examination to account
for the grass turning yellow in the way you mention.
The weed described as a coarse-looking grass is Luzula
campcstris, a dwarf member of the Rush family, which
is common in grassland throughout the United Kingdom.
The other weed is a species of Polvgonum. The latter
Hicil should be pulled up. but little good can be done
bv pulling up the Luzula if it is generally distributed
tbriuighout the lawn. Although the soil looks good,
tlie grass evidently requires some extra food material,
and you would be well advised to apply bone-meal at the
rate of 6cwt. to the acre, with a dressing of well-decayed
farmyard manure. Ihe manures may be applied now.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— Jftss B. Vumminijs.~l, Picris
llorilmnda ; 2, Dianthus Caryophyllus (garden seedling) ;

3. Campanula portenschiagiana. A. R. H — 1, Mme.

Jules Grolez ; 2, Souvenir de la Malmaison.

NAMES OF FRUIT.- If. ./.—I, Lord Suffield ; 2,
King of the Pippins ; 3, Golden Noble ; 4. Sugar-loaf

Pippin. ./. .K.— The fruit arrived all in pulp, and

impossible to name

SOCIETIES.

BIRMINGHAM AND MIDLAND DISTRICT
GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION.

Tm; Kiu'cvTioN of .v (i \ki)i:nku.
"At (iiii's I tV'iM that 1 am skatin ; on vrry thin it-i'."
was tlic introductory remark of Mr. J. Udalo, Instructor
in Horticulture to the Worccstershirt* Education C'om-
ni ttcc. when commencini? his lecture to the mcmber-
of the above society on the 1st inst. " The Gardener :
H's Education and Traininji," he said, although by no
means a new subject, was, nevertheless, one which required
much serious thouiiht. (lardeners as a body did not
occupy the status that they should; therefore they were
not paid as they should be. In fact, they were liable
to be despised, for their momentary positions were not
as favourable a* those of many other professions. This
certainly was due to the prevalence of many types of
gardeners, whose limited knowledge so curtailed their
work that it forced thi-ni to accept situations at 21s. to
25s. per week. Thin, too, the danger of the lady jiardeuer
also rendered their ]»isition precarious if thi-y did not
possess an adequate rdncation ; for those competitors
of the fairer sex nut nu\y receive a ^ood education, but
tliey have a likiim for this work, and also possess thi-
charm of stilliu;^ thr acidity of the mistress with a little
swei'tness unknown to most irardeners unless they culti-
vated lioiid appearance and address. As a jjroundwork
the youuir liardener should acqxure good grammar, accurate
arlthmi'tie autl legible writinir. and. if he wished to prove
hini'-ill 'theieut in his calling, u knowledge of chemistry,
botany, grography, mensuration, drawing, entomology,
and even a slight acquaintance with Latin were all neces-
sary. An absoluti- essential to real success was in
personality, in having acvite observation, quick to denote
colour, form and proportion, an easy adaptability to
environments, and an administrative capacity in which
loyalty, honesty, faithfiihn'ss, earnestness and truth-
fulness were combined. A suitable age for the young
gardener to commence upon his life's work was from
fifteen years upwards, and during the next succeeding
years he should attain proficiency by careful continuation
of his former scholastic studies by taking up advanced
classes in all the important subjects which come within
his sphere of requisites. He should bo prepared to do
all grades of work willingly, from weeding to stoking :
he shoulrl be methodical, observant and clean ; he should
learn the propagation of plants as well as the growth
of flowers ; he should also inchide a good knowledge of
landscape gardening work. Above all, he would be welt
advised to keep a diary of his daily work and observations
from the very outset: thus, he would be able in after
years to refer back to much useful information gained
by his own experience. All this, said the lecturer, meant
long hours of close study and hard work ; but to the
industrious, diligent follower of this advice there was
the reward in after years. Loud applause was accorded
to Mr. Udale upon his resumption of his chair, and the
many remarks, together with a unanimous vote of thanks,
gave evidence of the satisfaction of his audience at the
lecture.

fHE ANGLO-AMERICAN EXPOSITION, 1914.

HOUTICUI.TURE. AKUnKiriTijTVRE ANIi PoUKSTUV SECTION

The Anglo-American Exposition which will be held at
Shepherd's Bush next year has for its object the cele-
bration in a fitting manner of the hundred years of peace
and progros brtwi-m the Knglish-speaking peoples since
the rrr;ity of (ihent in ],sl4. As becomes an exhibition
illustrative in the fulli'st possible sense of the activities
of two great nations tanious for the prominent part they
have taken hi the advaneimcnt of tlie gardening art
in its varied aspects, demimst rat ions of both American
and British horticuJture are being organised on as com-
prehensive a scale as possible. This section of the
Exposition is being organised by the Committee of Horti-
culture, Arboriculture and Forestry, which ineliides
among its sixty members the foremost horticulturists,
arboriculturists and forestry experts of the present time,
who have also had much experience in the organisation
of exhibitions of the highest class. The committee lias
already made considerable progress, and has formuiated
a scheme which there is good reason for believing will
ensure a representation of horticulture, arboriculture
and forestry worthy of the two great nations interested.
Adequate provisions have been made for the display
of rock and water gardening of the most varied character,
which has of late years attained to so high a state of
development, more" especially in this country. A largo
area on the western side of the grounds will be placed
at the disposal of those who are specially interested in
this fascinating branch of the gardening art. Hardy
hi'rbaeeoiis ])lants will not be less liberally provided for,
as evideiieid by the spacious Court of Progress having
been aliivtted to tliem, to English formal gardens and
KhinbHlrndroiis, and here the firms who devote .special
attention t(. these im|>oitant classes of plants will show
their taste in arrantzenient and skill in cultivation.

Roses, in view of their iinportanee and popularity,
will have much space devoted to them, and under the
scheme th-- Kliti- (iardens will be almost wholly occupied
by these fraL'rant. attractive flowers. Ornamental trees
and shrubs, which have had so utany valuable additions
made to them as thi' ir>u\\ of tin- explorations in M'estern
China witliin recent vears, sliould also constitute a great
feature of much interest and usefulness, indeed, arrange-
ments are being made for the representation of many
other classes of plants that can be successfully grown in
the open during the summer months.

.^^fey--

GARDEN.

•ms=^'

No. 2196.— Vol. LXXVII.

CONTENTS.

December 20, 1913.

Notes of the Week 629

Correspondence
s^Rose Mrs. Cornwallis-

West 630

Silver-lpaf disease of

frait trees . . . . 630
Plants HowerinK out
of doors at Good-
wood 630

P R n N 1 N 0-KNIFE v.

SEOITECRS . . . . 831

Forthcoming events . . 631
" The Garden " in
1914 631

Rose Garden
Rose notes from the

Riviera .. .. 631
In a Hampshire gar-
den 632

Trees and Shritbs

Twisted trees.. .. 633

CoiocRED Plate
Rose Mme. Edouard
Herriot .. .. 633
Rock and Water Garden
The desisning of
rock gardens . . 634

Flower Garden
Sweet Pea notes . . 635
Reliable Lilies for
garden cultiva-
tion 635

Greenhouse
The winter-flowering
Begonias .. .. 636

Gardening for Beginners
How to propagate

Chrysanthemums 637
Hints on manuring

soils 637

Hints on storing

Dahlias .. .. 637

Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens .. .„ .. 638
For Northern gar-
dens 638

Gardening Acrosucs 639

OBITtTART

Jtartin John Sutton 639
John Pearson . . 639
ANSWERS TO Corre-
spondents . . . . 639

Societies 640

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Primula obconica growing outdoors 630

Horse Chestnut and Sweet Chestnut twisted in

reverse directions 632

A twisted Oak tree 633

Rose Mme. Edouard Herriot Coloured plate

Spirals on Beech tree 633

A weather-beaten Hawthorn 633

The designing, construction and planting of rock

gardens 634,635

Winter-flowering Begonia Optima 636

How to propagate Chrysanthemums 637

The late Martin John Sutton 639

EDITORIAL. NOTICES.

Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor tvelcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, hoivever, will be taken, and where stajnps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It imist be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor trill not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden vnll alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Royal Trees at Chatsworth. — The fine collec-
tion of trees at Chatsworth had additional interest
added to it on Friday of last week, when the King
and Queen each planted a Cedar of Lebanon in
the pleasure grounds adjacent to Chatsworth
House. -^ illustrated description of the fine
gardens there appeared in our issue of the 6th inst.

Protecting Wallflowers. — In cold localities it
is no unusual experience to lose the whole stock of
Wallflowers during a severe spell of frost unaccom-
panied by snow. The risk of this will be greatly
reduced if twigs of Spruce or Yew are placed among
the plants at about two feet apart. This tends to
break the current of cold air, which is the chief
factor in working havoc among the plants.

Slugs in the Rock Garden. — M this time of
the year raurh damage is done to plants by slugs,
and as these pests lie concealed during the day
beneath the foliage of some of the denser plants,
the soil beneath them should be heavily dressed
with dry wood-ashes, mixed vrith fresh soot.
Two or three dressings of this during the winter
will generally be sufficient to stop their ravages,
and will afford suitable food for the plants.

Clothing Tree Stumps. — WTiere for any reason
a tree has to be cut out, it can still be made an
object of beauty if it is cut several feet above
the ground and then covered by some suitable
plant. Clematises are suitable for this work,
especially C. montana and C. Vitalba (Traveller's
Joy). Other plants suitable for this purpose
are Polygonum baldschuanicum, the common
Dog Rose, Forsythia suspensa and the common
Ivy. It will, of course, be necessary to dig a
good pit and fill it with rich soil in order to give
the plant a fair start.

Forcing Rhubarb. — Many are imder the im-
pression that to get Rhubarb early it is essential
to have a liigh temperature. This is quite a wrong
idea, for anyone who has a cellar or similar place,
where the temperature is from 55° to 60°, can
grow this welcome subject successfully. If the
roots are placed close together, soil worked
between them and an occasional watering given,
they will do we'l. It is desirable to dig up the
roots some time before they are required for forcing,
and leave them exposed to the frost. When
treated in this way they will break into growth
quicker and give better results than if forced as
soon as dug up.

A Giant Dahlia. — When Dahlia imperialis
was first introduced from Mexico in 1863,
much interest was centred around it, owing to
its lofty stature. It proved, however, to flower
at such a late period of the year that it was useless
out of doors, and a very large structure was needed
for its accommodation. Such being the case,
in time it almost went out of cultivation. Still,
given a house sufficiently lofty, it forms a striking

and uncommon feature. It reaches a height of
fully a doren feet, the lower part of the stem
being clothed with huge compound leaves, the upper
portion consisting of a large branching panicle
of blossoms. The individual flowers are bell-
shaped and somewhat drooping, while the colour
is whitish, marked slightly with red at the base.

Fruit Failing to Set. — The Board of Agriculture
and Fisheries are engaged in an enquiry, through
their Horticulture Branch, into the failure of fruit
trees to set properly through insufficient pollination,
and they would be glad to be put in communication
with the occupier of any orchard of five acres and
upward who has reason to believe that his trees are
bearing less than the normal crop over a series of
years. Fruit-growers who are planting new
orchards are also invited to communicate with the
Board at 4, Whitehall Place, London, S.W.

Ornamental Fruiting Plants.— Now that the
flowering season is practically over outside, thofe '
plants that are grown for their ornamental fruit
are appreciated, and help to brighten the garden
at what would be otherwise a dreary time. There
are quite a number to select from, so that it
is an easy matter to get variety for large or
small gardens. Aucubas, several Berberises, a
number of Cotoneasters and Crataegus, Gaul-
therias. Sea Buckthorn, Leycesteria formosa,
Pemettya mucronata, Rosa rugosa and Skimmias
are a few of the best.

The Popularity of the Rose. — The report and
financial statement of the National Rose Society,
presented to the members at the annual meeting
in London last week, and a report of which appears
on another page, is an eloquent testimony to the
ever-increasing popularity of the Rose. In 1908
the membership of the society stood at what was
then regarded as the high figure of 3,150, but now
it is nearly double that number. Notwithstanding
the fact that the Coimcil have expended large sums
on literature, prizes and other features, the financial
statement is particularly good, and we congratulate
the Council on the excellent work they have done
and are still doing.

BIue-FIowering Plants in the Warm Green-
house.— Flowers of a blue tint are always admired,
and of those now in bloom Barleria caerulea is very
pleasing, while a few of the earliest metallic blue
flowers of Eranthemum pulchellum are also ex-
panded. These will shortly be followed by the
rich cobalt blue blossoms cf Coleus thyrsoideus,
which, of comparatively recent introduction,
quickly became a universal favourite. The most
uncommon of the three plants above mentioned
is the Barleria, which, as with many other Acanthads,
forms a rather erect-growing plant, with the
principal shoots terminated by a cone-like head
of bracts, whence the flowers protrude. They
are of a beautiful sky blue colour, and though
the individual flowers do not last long, a succession
is kept up for some time from one head. It is a
native of India, and is also known as B. strigosa.

630

THE GARDEN.

[December 20/1913.

CORRESPONDENCE.

(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Rose Mrs. Cornwallis - West. — in my notes

tfi you on this e.xhibition Hybrid Tea I wound
up by asking the question, " Should not this Rose
be renamed Lady Randolph Churchill ? " I am
informed that in making this suggestion I was
wrong, and that the Rose in question was named,
not after the lady now known as Lady Randolph
Churchill, but after Mrs. Cornwallis - West of
Newlands Manor, Lymington, Hants, and Ruthin
Castle, North Wales, at both of which places it
does e.xtremely well. I shall be glad if you will
kindly find room for this withdrawal of my remark.

H. E. MOLYNEUX.

Primula obconica Growing Outdoors. — I

enclose you a photograph of some Primula obconicas
growing out of doors, which may interest you. The
photograph was taken last week, and shows plants

growers we are all an.Kious to know how to get
rid of a troublesome pest, and any practical informa-
tion would be welcomed by a large body of culti-
vators.— Enquirer.

Early Peas in Pots and Boxes. — The note or.
early Peas, on page 607, issue December 6, is very
interesting and instructive. " T. G. J." does well
to recommend boxes as well as pots for the purpose
as the plants will do just as well in the former as in
the latter. They are not as expensive as pots, in
the first instance, but, of course, do not last as long
Good turves are cheaper still, and I have been very
successful in growing Peas in them. Flat turves
2J inches deep, are large enough in which to raise
the Peas that are to be planted out in the open border
in due course ; but turves i foot wide, the same in
length, or at most 15 inches, and 7 inches deep,
are the kind to use for Peas that are to be retained
under glass. A shallow drill is scooped out, the Peas
sown and covered with good compost. — Shamrock.

The Midland Daffodil Society.— It will be good
news to all who are interested in Daffodils, and in

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PRIMULA OBCONICA GROWING AND FLOWERING IN THE OPEN AT HASLEMERE, SURREY.

which stood last winter without protection. They
were raised from seed in the spring of 1911
and flowered that winter under glass. In May I
planted them out. They bloomed all through the
summer of 1912, and through the winter as well,
and have flowered constantly up to date. Our eleva-
tion is 720 feet above sea-level ; the soil is sandy
and light. They suffered rather in the dry spell
we had in the summer, but did not seem to mind
the cold. They are sheltered from north winds
by the shrubs behind them. — C. Wray, Hill View,
Grayshott, near Haslemere.

Silver-Leaf Disease of ^ Fruit Trees.— I have
carefully read the remarks in two copies of The
Garden by Mr. Irwin Lynch, and have come to
the conclusion that it is a very good scientific
exposition of the theory of cause, progress, warning
and conclusion ; but as for a cure, I fear we must
look further afield. None of the many quotations
made by Mr. Lynch gives us any clue as to the
remedy to be applied for efficacy. As fruit-

the Midland Society in particular, to know that
at a special general meeting held at Birmingham on
December 10, the president, Mr. P. D. Williams, in
the chair, it was decided that the society should go on
as nearly as possible as it was in the days of the late
Mr. Robert Sydenham, but that there should be
no public dinner in 1914. Mr. Herbert Smith,
who is now the managing director of Robert
Sydenham, Limited, promised that the society
should have the same help from his firm in the
future as in the past. Mr. C. L. Adams was unani-
mously elected treasurer and Mr. Watts a member
of the floral committee. The new rules of the
Royal Horticultural Society relative to awards
were adopted, and will be in force at the next show
on April 23 and ^4. It was decided to perpetuate
the memory of the late Robert Sydenham, the
founder, by having the words " Robert Sydenham,
Founder," engraved on all the medals and note-
paper. It is hoped that an annua! dinner, to
commence in 1915, will be decided upon at the

meeting which I think is to be called for 8 on

the evening of the first day's show in 1914

Joseph Jacob.

Plants Flowering Out of Doors at Goodwood.—
.\s an indication of the mild weather experienced
in various parts of the comitr>', many correspon-
dents have sent us lists of plants flowering out-
doors in December. The following, sent by Mr.
F. Brock, gardener at Goodwood, Chichester, is
one of the most interesting : Abutilon vexillarium,
Abelia rupestris, Achillea alpina, A. argentca,
A. millefolium Cerise Queen, A. tomentosa, Ajuga
reptans atropurpurea, Alchemilla alpina, Alonsoas,
Alyssum minima, A. saxatilis, Aloysia citriodora
(Lemon-scented Verbena), Anchusa italica, Andro-
sace camea, Anthemis tinctoria, .^tirrhinums
(Snapdragons), nine florists' varieties ; Arabis
albida, A. a. flore pleno. Arbutus Unedo (carrying
ripe fruits, green fruits and flowers), Armeria
maritima rosea, Asperula suberosa. Aster Thomp-
sonii, Aubrietia Dr. Mules, A. graeca, A. Mrs.
Lloyd Edwards, A. Hendersonii, A. Wallacei,
Berberis Darwinii, Cassia corymbosa, Caltha
palustris. Campanula muralis, C. spicata, C. Van
Houttei, Ceanothus azureus, C. Ceres, C. Gloire
de Plantiferes, C. Gloire de Versailles, C. Marie
Simon, Clerodendron Bungei, Cheiranthus Cheiri,
Japanese Chrysanthemums, three varieties ;
Chrysanthemum maximus, Chrysogonum virgini-
animi, Chimonanthus fragrans, Choisya temata,
Collomia, Coronilla Emerus, Cosmea Sutton's Dwarf
Miniature, Cytisus canadensis, Dianthus deltoides,
D. fragrans, Doronicum austriacum, Erigeron
Asa Gray, E. mucronatus, E. philadelphicus, E.
speciosus grandiflorus. Fuchsia gracilis, F. Riccar-
tonii, Gaillardia grandiflora. Geranium Endressii,
Geum Heldreichii, G. rivale, Gypsophila repens
rosea, Hamamelis virginica (Witch Hazel), Heli-
anthemums (Sun Roses), four varieties ; Heuchera
sanguinea, four varieties ; Hutchmsia alpina.
Hydrangea hortensis, Hypericum aegypticum,
H. olympicum, H. patulum, H. reptans, Iberis
corresfolia, I. Pniitii, I. saxatilis, Jasminum
nudiflorum, Lavandula spica (Lavender), Laurus-
tinus. Lobelia speciosa, Lonicera fragrantissima,
L. brachypoda, Linaria alpina, L. maroccana,
Lithospermum prnstratum, M ■gnolia grandiflora.
Mignonette, Nepeta Mussinu (Catmint), N. M.
superba, Nicotiana aflinis (Sweet-scented Tobacco),
Nycterina selaginoides, CEnothera macrocarpa
(Evening Primrose), CE. taraxacifolia, Odonto-
spermum maritimum, Othonnopsis cheirifolia,
Oxalis rosea, Passiflor'a cserulea (Passion Flower),
Pentstemon Newbury Gem, P. White Newbury
Gem, P. Myddelton Gem, Phlox setacea, P. pro-
cumbens, Potentilla nepalensis Miss Willmott,
P. Tonguei, Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary),
R. prostrata. Rhododendron Grand Arab ; Roses —
Orleans, Jessie, Mrs. Cutbush, Marquis of Salis-
bury, Griiss an Teplitz, Hiawatha, Crimson China,
Pink China, Irish Elegance, Hermosa, Frau Karl
Druschki, Souvenir de la Malmaison, Dorothy
Perkins and wichuraiana alba ; Rudbeckia New-
manii. Salvia Pitched, S. Star of Zurich, Sedum
stoloniferum, tall German Scabious, Senecio pulcher,
Sisyrinchium grandiflora, Solanum jasminoides.
Spiraea Anthony Waterer, S. confusa, S. Thun-
bergii. Stock Crimson Beauty of Nice, Tiarella
cordifolia (Foam Flower), Tritoma Uvaria (Red-
hot Poker), Tropaeolum canariense (Canary Creeper),
Verbena venosa, V. tenera moorenetta, Veronica
Autumn!^, Glory, V. Andersonii, V. A. variegata,
V. decussata, V. Diamant, V. salicifolius, V. Simon
Delaux, V. La Favourite, V. Bidwillii, V. rupestris,
Vinca major (Periwinkle) and V. minor.

December 20. 191 3.]

THE GARDEN.

631

PRUNING- KNIFE
TEURS.

SECA-

FOR a long time after I took an iaterest
in pruning I had a great dislike to
secateurs, looking upon tliem as a
clumsy substitute for a good knife, and
suitable only to those very amateurish
performers who were unable to make
proper use of a pruning-knife ; but after a time
luy opinions became modified, partly through seeing
how much secateurs were coming into general
use, more especially among the workmen in our
own nurseries. Experiment showed that they
had advantages in certain cases, and extended
use made me quite fond of them ; and now I
would like to record for the sake of the inexperienced
the particular advantages of the two rival tools.
There can be no question that to the person who
has mastered the A B C of the use of the knife,
the pleasure of a good clean cut is greater than
the sensation of squeezing through a branch with
a pair of specially-made scissors ; also the cut is
bound to be a cleaner one. .-Vgain, one can cut
through a much thicker growth with a knife than
can be done with secateurs, and leave a clean wound
behind which will soon heal over.

Now for the other side. Pruning Roses and
Gooseberries with a knife cannot be called a joy ;
there must always be a drawing of the knife across
a branch to effect a clean cut, and if (as will some-i
times happen) there should be a slip, the hand
of the operator comes sharply away and is sure
to be caught by the prickles of the Rose or spines
of the Gooseberry ; thick gloves may save one,
and they may not. With a pair of secateurs there is
no drawing action ; the blades encircle the branch,
and a steady press makes the cut. Here, then,
is a case where the scissors easily beat' the knife.
Again, fancy yourself on the top of a ladder or high
set of steps. You require both hands, as a rule,
to make a cut with a knife, and it is not everyone
who feels comfortable in such a position with nothing
to hold on to but the thin twig they are cutting.
Now, with secateurs one can take a firm hold with
one hand of the ladder or a stout branch while
cutting away freely with the other hand ; moreover,
if one be at all ambidexterous, one is able to prune'
all within reach of either hand, thus saving time
in going up or down and moving the ladder or steps.
I would say, then, to the amateur, " By all means
have both a good knife and a good pair of secateurs,"
for both are useful and add to one's pleasure in
doing the work. It seems a great pity that our
English manufacturers do not give us a good pair
of secateurs at a reasonable price. I think I may
salely say that aU such tools come from either
France or Germany. That good home-made
secateurs are made I do not deny, but they are
generally sold retail' at about 5s. to 7s. 6d. a pair,
while very good French or German made ones are
retailed at 2s. gd. to 3s. 6d. If our own makers
canTiot compete with these lower-priced imple-
ments, well, I suppose there is no help for it, and we
must go on as we are ; but it seems a great pity
that some efiort is not made to retain what must
amount to a very large slice of trade now going
abroad. J. Duncan Pearson.

The Nurseries, Lowdham, Notts.

FORTHCOMING EVENT.
January 13, 1914. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Exhibition and Meeting at Vincent Square, West-
luuisler.

'THE GARDEN" IN 1914.

* S bnetl)' indicated in our last issue, with
/\ a view to still further enhancing the

/ % value of The Garden, we are now
/ % m a position to state that we
^ * have secured for the coming year the

services of many of the leading authori-
ties on gardening, who have promised to contribute
articles on subjects of which they have made a
life-long study. Those of our readers who remember
Sir Herbert Maxwell's articles, which appeared
some years ago, will, we feel sure, be glad to learn
that he has once more promised to contribute an
invaluable series of articles to our columns. Miss
Jekyll, whose reputation as a deviser of colour-
schemes in the flower garden is world-wide, has
also kindly promised to write on the sub-
jects for which she is so deservedly famous.
It would, indeed, occupy far too much space to
state in detail the many articles to be contributed
by new and well-known writers ; but the following
brief summary will serve to indicate their authori-
tative and comprehensive character. We summarise
them tersely as under :

Trees and Shrubs will be fully dealt with by
Mr. W. J. Bean, ^^U. Dallimore and others.

Hardy Flowers and Carnations by Mr. r. p.

Brotherston, .Mr. E. H. Jenkins and Mr. S. Amott.

Water-side Gardening by Mr. James Hudson.

The Rock Garden by Mr. Jenkins, Mr. Dillistone
and Mr. .-Vru'itt.

The Heath Garden by .Mr. T. Wilson, head-
gardener to the Earl of Strathmore.

Hardy Primulas by Dr. J. McWatt.

Daffodils and Tulips by the Rev. J. Jacob.

Roses by .Mr. H. E. Molyneux, Mr. W. Easlea
and Mr. P. L. Goddard. The latter writes specially
on " Roses for Town Gardens."

Sweet Peas by Mr. T. Stevenson, Mr. S. M.
Crow and others.

The Vegetable Garden will be in the hands of

.Mr. E. Beckett, \'..M.H., and Mr. E. Molyneux.

The Fruit Garden. — .\rticles in this important
section will be contributed by Mr. Owen Thomas,
V.M.H., Mr. E. -\. Bunyard and others. •

Plant Diseases and Treatment of the Soil.—

Under the heading of ■' Science in Relation to
Horticulture," Professor Houston, F.L.S., wOl
deal exhaustively with the Treatment of the Soil
and Plant Diseases.

Diseases Ol Bulbs. — Mr. George Massee, F.L.S.,
whose article on a disease of Narcissus bulbs we
reprinted from the Kew Bulletin in our issue for
December 6, has promised to contribute an
illustrated series on diseases of bulbs.

Lawns. — Mr. Peter Lees, the well-known green-
keeper at the Mid-Surrey Golf Club, will contribute
articles on the treatment of lawns.

Auriculas, Chrysanthemums. Greenhouse and

Other Plants will also be fully dealt with by
acknowledged e.xperts.

These are but a few of the special writers who
are contributing to The Garden during the coming
year. Most of these articles will be accompanied
by practical and artistic illustrations. With such
a list of important contributors we look forward
with every confidence to the New Year. It has
always been the aim of The Garden to place before
its ever-increasing circle of readers authoritative
articles by recognised experts, and we feel,
from letters we daily receive from correspondents
all over the world, that the success we have achieved
is most cordially appreciated.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

ROSE NOTES FROM THE RIVIERA.

THE BEST STOCKS FOR WARM COUNTRIES.

HAVING much enjoyed Mr. Molyneux's
Rose notes, which I see have been
also read by garden enthusiasts in
many countries, I wonder if he can,
out of his stores of knowledge, give
us some information on the important
point of Rose stocks. In England the Briar
stock is so generally used, and has, moreover,
proved itself so much the most satisfacton,' medium
for the propagation of Roses, that there is little
more to be said on that subject. This, however,
is not the case all over the world, and contributions
on this point will, I think, be welcomed with much
interest by those who garden in the Colonies, or
even on the Riviera, where now so many good
gardens arc to be found. Gardening as I do on
this last and well-known coast, I have found, to
my regret, that the Briar stock is unsuitable to
the climate and conditions generally. It suffers
severely from the summer heat and drought — so
much so that after the first beautiful and brief
flowermg in spring is passed, the Rose on that
stock never does any more good, and generally
dies out by the third year. The stock employed
by gardeners and nurserymen here is that called
" indica major," a strong-growing Rose that
withstands the summer drought without suffering,
and after the autumn rains starts into vigorous'
growth at once ; hence its value, because it produces
the greatly-valued November and December Roses
that are the glory of this coast. I have never
ascertained its origin with certainty. If Rosa
indica was one parent, what was the other ?
This is the Rose used all along the coast as a hedge
Rose, and seems ubiquitous in cultivated land.
Its wreaths of pale pink, double flowers of
many shades of colouring contrast charmingly with
the crimson indicas. which are also used for
hedges.

The R. multiflora hybrid De la Grifferaie was
much used at one time, but has proved uncertain
as a host, for only the strongest-growing climbers
live more than a year or two when grafted on it.
The native R. sempervirens has always seemed
worthy of trial on dry and poor soils where it
thrives ; but it is not sufficiently vigorous, I am
told, and cannot compete with R. indica major.
There is one Rose, however, I should like to recom-
mend for dry and warm climates, and that is
R. bracteata, the Macartney Rose. Is it
used, I wonder, in China, or the Cape, or the ."Anti-
podes ? It has a more marked influence on the
Rose budded or grafted on it than any other stock
I am acquainted with, but it suckers badly and
has such hooked and piercing thorns that it is
called by gardeners '■ La Rose Cruelle " ! It is
extremely vigorous and, of course, evergreen in
this chmate, and has the valuable quality of growing
continuously all through the winter, so that Roses
on this stock are more continuous also in growth
and flower. The curious property it possesses of
adding to the depth of colour of any Rose budded on
it is shown to a very marked degree in th_at beautiful
but uncertain Rose Georges Schwartz, which
attains a richness of tone that is quite unequalled.
That curious but picturesque Rose General Gallieni
assumes a brilliancy and beauty of colour that
it never attains on its own roots or on R. indica
major, but I should call it essentially the amateur's
stock, as R. bracteata takes a year to establish

632

THE GARDEN.

[December 20, 1913.

tself and d'jes not transplant very readily. To
those, however — and they must be many — wh<i
possess rampant bushes of this Rose, which is
so beautiful in itself, I would say : " Bud freely
on each strong, succulent growth, and enjoy the
result."

Can anyone say why its close relative, R. sinica,
is quite useless as a stock ? Or can anyone say
they find it reliable for that purpose ? The new
Rose, R. lucens, of modem introduction, seems
a very promising plant in every way, and those
who are happy to possess it will, I hope, tell of
their experience.

A large number of Roses from the seeds Mr.
Wilson collected in China are worthy of trial,
but not, I imagine, for those who desire winter
Roses. They seem to have a very definite resting
period in winter, and their bark does not rise
kindly when buds are waiting for a stock. The
Banksian Rose is well known as a stock for Marfechal
Niel, and the blooms at first are particularly rich

IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.

Some of the Newer Dkcok.wive Roses.
{Contiuucd fruin page 620.)

Miss Cynthia Forde (Hugh Dickson, 1909). —
In its particular shade of pink, which is generally
termed " rose," and covers, I suppose, as many
roses as, if not more than, any other shade of
colour that one could name, I am inclined
to place Miss Cynthia Forde at the head of
them all as the best bedding Rose of this
colour, even in front of that fine old variety
Caroline Testout, for so long the most popular
garden Rose. It is, I think, a more beautiful
Rose, of a more pleasing shade, not perhaps
a better grower, but certainly more sweetly
scented. I do not know its parentage, but
it is nearly ten years ago since I first made
its acquaintance at Belmont, and it then struck
me as having a good deal of Antoine Rivoire
blood in its veins. Be that as it may, it i;

(I) HORSE CHESTNUT AND (2) SWEET CHESTNUT TWIbTI D IX klVl.kSi; DUO XllONS.

in colour ; but I have not heard of Roses generally
doing well upon it for any length of time.

It is disappomting to find that, though Roses
root so readily from cuttings when put in in August
in this climate, there are not many varieties that
in the end make strong plants on their own roots —
probably because they do not produce enough
roots to stand the summer drought and heat. To
water heavily during the summer is, curiously
enough, the way to kill rather than cure a Rose
that is weakly ; mulching the roots deeply is by
far the better plan. As the natives say, they die
of a coup de soleil if they are watered when the
sun and the ground are so hot. There are diffi-
culties of one sort or another to contend against,
wherever your lot may be cast !

La Selva. Brancolor, Nice. E. H. Woodall.

[We shall be pleased to hear from corre-
spondents who have had experience of the
difficulties mentioned by our correspondent.
The subject is one of considerable importance
to both amateurs and nurserymen. — Ed.]

a very excellent Rose, and should be in every
garden.

Mrs. Alfred Tate (S. McGredy and Son, 1909).-—
Another Rose that saw the light of commerce the
same year as the last named. Not quite such
a good all-round Rose, perhaps, but for some
purposes, such as table decoration or a button-
hole, even more useful. It has few petals, but
its charm lies in its fine colour and beautiful
long buds, coppery pink, with a fawn tinge, a good
grower, flowers held erect on good, long stems,
not subject to mildew, sweetly scented and very
free-flowering.

Mrs. Amy Hammond (S. McGredy and Son,
r9rr). — This is undoubtedly one of the best Roses
these raisers have given us. I have grown it now
for three years, and each year it has improved.
This year it has given me some of the best flowers
I have grown, and its autumn blooms were as good
as the June flowers. It belongs to the flesh-
coloured Roses, and is therefore " up against "
Pharisaer, Grace Molyneux, La Tosca and

Viscountess Folkestone, and I am inclined to
think it is a better Rose than any one of
them. \ fine grower, not miduly subject to
mildew, and a very free-flowerer, it is destined
to become very popular when better known.
Named after the wife of a very enthusi-
astic Rose amateur and exhibitor (and one
of the vice-presidents of the National Rose
Society), and who herself has won many prizes
for table decoration and in the other
decorative classes at the National Rose Society's
shows.

Mrs. Arthur Munt (Alex. Dickson and Sons,
1909). — A. good creamy white garden Rose, strongly
Tea-scented, that somehow is not so much grown
nor so well known as its merits deserve. A com-
pact, but not a vigorous grower, not subject to
mildew ; it makes a fine bed, especially in the
autumn, when the flowers come as good as in
June.

Mrs. Charles E. Alien (Hugh Dickson, 1911). —
A charming decorative Rose, pale yellow ochre
to buff, very free-flowering, a good grower, not
particularly subject to mildew.

Mrs. Charles E. Pearson (S. McGredy and
Son, 1913). — It may be considered early to speak
or write definitely about this Rose, but I have
grown it all this last season, and there is very little
fault to find with it. As a pure bedding Rose
of its shade of colour it is far ahead of anything
else at present on the market. It is a very much
improved Lyon at its best, the flowers perhaps a
trifle smaller and the whole habit of the plant
smaller, too. It makes a particularly neat-looking
plant, each flower seeming to be produced at the
same height from the ground. It is sweetly
scented, and has a much better constitution than
Lyon or the pernetiana Roses generally. The
colour is a good orange apricot that holds well,
flushed on the outside of the petals with red-
\iilow. If a plant could be taken up and
t ransplanted straight to the centre - piece of
a table decoration, it would want no arrang-
ing, no stems shortening, the whole being compact
and complete.

Mrs. E. Powell (Bemaix, igti). — This is a
very good bedding crimson, of fair shape and
size, free-flowering, that is well worth trying ;
but it is by no means the ideal crimson bedder
we are looking for. The blue is too conspicuous
jn the older flowers.

Mrs. Franli Bray (Alex. Dickson and Sons,
191 2). — This is a considerably better grower
than Mme. Ravary, to which it otherwise has
some resemblance, both in the colour of its flowers
and foliage ; but the former are more freely pro-
duced, with a good deal of pink mixed with the
orange that enables the flowers to retain their
colour better, especially in the autumn, when
Mme. Ravary is often but a ghost of her
real self. I do not think it is at all a
case of the one replacmg the other ; they are
sufficiently distinct for there to be plenty of
room for both. Delightfully fragrant, and in
flower as I write.

Mrs. Franll Worltman (Hugh Dickson, ign). —
This is, I think, gouig to prove a good garden
Rose, but it is in a very strong class. There are
many good rose pinks. It is free-flowering, carries
its blooms well and erect on good, long shoots.
Is not predisposed to mildew, and is a good,
vigorous grower.

Southampton. Herbert E. Molvneu.x.

(To be continued.)

Siif^f'ldiii-jit io Till: GARDEN, December 20///, 191 3.

NEW ROSE Mme. EDOUARD HERRIOT.

Hudson & Kearns. IJtI.. Printers. London, S B.

December 20, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

633

TREES AND SHRUBS.

TWISTED TREES.

IT sometimes happens with certain trees that
the trunks show a marked tendency to
twist in a spiral manner. Everyone who
is at all familiar with our British trees has
probably observed this tendency in the
common Hawthorn, a tree often met with
in bleak and wind-swept positions, when both
trunk and liranchcs bend over with the direction

a few inches thick. The tree, eventually formed,
by its continual growth on the inner side, two
remarkable spirals suggesting a pair of scrolls.
The Judas Tree (Cercis Siliquastrum) is often
twisted. An old tree in the Botanic Garden at
Cambridge is reputed to be very slowly revolving,
so that the branches now leaning to the west were
many years ago said to be facing north.

The cause of trees growing in spirals does not
appear to be well understood, but one factor
whicli may throw light upon the question is the
formation of new cells from the cambium. These
cells slide either to the right or to the left as the
growth of the tree proceeds. The cells, which
arc elongated when seen in tangential section, are
known as sliding cells, and should they slide equally
in both directions, no twisting of the trunk would
result. This twisting is worthy of attention at this
season, when deciduous trees are in their winter's

C. Q.

COLOURED PLATE.

PLATE 1483.

ROSE MME. tDOUARD HERRIOT.

^HALi. ne\er forget the glnriinis (iispl.t\- ni
IS lim- uo\'ell\' that 1 was pri\ilrgeil to see

3. A TWISTED OAK TREE

of the prevailing wind. Such trees, if of any age,
invariably have rough and gnarled bark, some-
times twisted, as in the case of the Hawthorn
depicted in the last of the series of illustrations.
The advantage of such a twist is obvious, for
just as a rope is strengthened by twisting, so is
the tree better adapted for withstanding tin-
strain placed upon it in a wind-swept position.

In the case of the Horse Chestnut (Fig. i), the
twisting is not at all common, and it is really diffi-
cult to understand why certain trees possess this
peculiarity while others growing under precisely
similar conditions are normal. Another point of
more than passing interest is the direction of the
spiral. In all of the cases illustrated the spiral
is from left to right, except in the case of the
Sweet Chestnut (Fig. 2), in which the reverse
spiral, i.e., right to left, is well defined. This
remarkable tree stands in the Arboretum at Kew.
The Sweet Chestnut is rather addicted to the
production of spirals, which may be in either
direction. In the case of the Oak, however,
the tendency is by no means common. Fig. 3
represents a derelict Oak in Windsor Forest
which has been killed by lightning. Here the
twist is observed not only in the main stem, but
also running through the branches. In very
hollow trees, open on one side, spiral growth is
sometimes seen, owing to new wood continually
being deposited on its own inner surface. .\
remarkable example of this curious growth is
exhibited in No. 4 Museum at Kew. It is a section
i>( Ivliii trunk, so hollow ;is to be merely a shell

Herriot will be grown by tlie million in the near
future. I was not surprised to learn that M.
Pernet-Ducher was obliged to decline many large
orders, and, indeed, most of the demands had
to be considerably curtailed, for this noted raiser
caters for the whole world. The pernetiana
Roses have most assuredly come to stay. There
are some rosarians who fear that the tribe lacks
constitution. I grant that Rayon d'Or and Lyon
have a very bad tendency to die back, but this
tendency will be gradually eliminated. Certainly
with Mnic. Edouard Herriot there is no such
tendency as far as I have seen, the plants in my
possession looking the picture of healthy vigour.
We all know how splendidly this Rose was exhibited
last year at Vincent Square and Chelsea by that
prince of growers, Mr. George Beckwith, and it
must prove to be one of the greatest novelties
yet raised from a colour point of view. Like
most popular novelties, I expect it will be over-
propagated, as was the case with Lyon Rose
and Rayon d'Or ; but no doubt many rosarians have
seen, as I have, these two superb Roses sending up
wood that could almost be described as timber after
thev had recovered from this over- propagation.

1 have blooming now (December 6) a most
charming variety of the group named Mme.
Ruan. There is a resemblance to Viscountess
lolkestone, and yet sufficient of the Briar
suffusion to stamp it as one of the distinctive
pernetianas. The flower has a warm apricot hue
pervading the pink, altogether a delightful blending,

I saw at M. Pernet-Duchcr's quite a number
■ if seedlings of Mme. Edotiard Herriot, of which
we shall doubtless hear more very soon. There
seems to be no end to the variations possible in the
cross-fertilisation of the Rose, and no sooner do
we have some startling novelty. introduced than
there are others to eclipse it. In my rambles
through the seedling quarters of the three great
Irish raisers last July, I noticed quite a number
bearing undoubted relationship to the pernetiana
group, so that this tribe will soon become one
of the most important, perhaps even eclipsing
the Hvbrid Teas. -All readers who wish to add

4. SPIRALS ON BEECH TREE.

at the end of last May when visiting my friend
M. Pernet-Ducher at his home, Venissieux, near
Lyons. It was a beautiful sunny morning when
I wa6 conducted to that part of the famous
Rose gardens vhere Mme. Edouard Herriot
was growing, and here row upon row of the
healthy-looking plants were in full bloom at
this early time of the year. These particular
plants were cut-backs, for the thousands of
maiden plants in another part were only just
showing bud. No one who could have seen the
Rose here in its home could have any doubt as
to its ultimate success. What a colour ! • And
who can describe it ? I guess it will need an
artist to correctly name its various tints, but the
coloured pl.ite will give some idea of its beauty. .As
a Rose for bedding and massing, Mnic. Kdoiiaid

IA\\ lllllKN.

634

THE GARDEN.

[December 20, 1913.

distinctive novelties to their
collections must certainly have
Mme. Edouard Herriot, and it
they do not yet possess Arthur
R. Goodwin, Louise Catherine
Breslau, Cissie Easlea and Wil-
lowmere, I would advise them
to gel them during the present
planting season. Danecrom.

ROCK & WATER
GARDENS.

"TmE "RlCiMT Wi\V To Ui>E:

THE DESIGNING OF
ROCK GARDENS.

{Continued fro^n pa^^c 621.)

Arrangement of Stone. —

This depends to such a great
extent upon the nature of
the stone used and the
purpose for which the work
is being carried out that it is
only possible to give a few
general instructions. The must
important point to remember
is that every piece of stone
should be placed with due

THE VywoMC, Way

.2>hE,TCH h.

^U^

PLANS G AND II, SHOWING THE RIGHT AND WRONG WAV TO USE
STEPPING-STONES. 1

I

regard to its relation with every other piece in every other respect, competent gardeners, I construction of

used. There must be a sense of connection splendid cultivators, and some even with more l| arranged that

running through the whole

scheme. Even detached,

isolated masses should bear a

relation to every other portion

of the arrangement. No pains

are too great to spend to

attain this object. If the

stone bears distinct lines of

stratification (such as in the

Bargate stone), then the lines

themselves supply the key to

the arrangement. On the

other hand, if a conglomerate,

such as the Derby sandstone

previously mentioned, the

treatment may obviously be

much more free. In these

stones such actual lines of

stratification as are apparent

in the original mass are

frequently many feet apart,

and such stratification as is

introduced should be, while

quite clearly pronounced, a

little less definite than in

stones that show thinner beds

in themselves. In no case is

it wise to lose sight of the

fact that some stratification

exists in all stones. It is

just as easy, however, to err

on the side of too much

" line," and this is frequently

the case where considerable

experience in the actual

handling of the stone is

absent. Lack of experience,

however, does not accoimt

for much of the bad work

that is done, but is due

to the absolute inability of

tlie operator to grasp the

full significance of his

work. Many excellent men

STONE STEPS WELL PLACED IN THE ROCK GARDEN.

than ordinary powers of
design, totally fail in this
one respect. Every stone
placed should have a reason
for it being in. its position.
None should be used that is
unnecessary, and one is far
more likely to obtain satis-
factory results from too little
rather than too much stone.
Where the cultivation of
alpines is the main considera-
tion, every stone should be
placed with a slight back-
ward slope, so that the ledge
formed by it vrill catch the
water and direct it towards
the roots of the plants on
that ledge. There should be
sufficient soil between the stones
for root action of the particular
plants to be grown in that
position.
Steps and Paths. — .\ very

important feature in the arrange-
ment of the rock garden is the
creation of steps and paths. To
maintain a perfectly natural
appearance, these should be of
the same stone as is used in the
the rock garden. They should be so
they give the impression of being
a continuation of the stratifi-
cation of the adjoining stone.
This is really important, many
an otherwise good arrangement
being spoiled by the introduc-
tion of paths formed of another
stone altogether, and used in
such a way that while they
would make excellent paths
through other portions of the
garden, they are too obviously
artificial for the rock garden.
With regard to steppmg-stones,
these should be irregular in out-
line, and, in fact, providing the
upper surface is sufficiently
smooth for pleasant tread, the
more irregular they are the
better.

Stepping-stones are useful,
not only for crossing water, but
in the low, marshy places in
the rock garden, and can even
be used with good effect to form
the main paths (see illustra-
tions). Stones used for this
purpose should be selected, not
made, but if any rough dressing
has to be done, the marks of the
tools should always be effaced.
Above all things avoid arrang-
ing stepping-stones to go the
length of any piece of water.
Never make a crossing for the
sake of introducing stepping-
stones. The accompanying
simple plans illustrate the right
(G) and wrong (H) positions
f.ir their use, which should
.ilmost invariably be at the
narrowest part of the stream.

(rEORCE DiLLISTONE.

('olchester.

{To be concluded.]

December 20, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

635

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

SWF.ET PEA NOTES.

VARIETIES FOR EXHIBITION.

Once to evory aian and Nation comes the moment to
decide,
In tlin strife of Faith and Falsehood.
For the ^'ood or evil side.

THE Sweet Pea grower has to make his
choice of the varieties he intends
growing, and when he views the
lengthy lists coiitaiiied in every cata-
logue he may be pardoned if he quails
before the task, for the difficulty is
not so inuch what to select as what to neglect.
The National Sweet Pea Society has listed many
" too-much-alike varieties," and all e.xhibitors should
avail themselves of this and other exclusive expert
knowledge by becoming, for the small annual
sum of 5s., members of this society. Some readers
may think it superfluous to state that" Sweet Peas
are known as the Spencer or
waved varieties, and the
grandiflora or non-waved
varieties, yet many arc still
ignorant of this fact.

In making a selection for
exhibition purposes, the
grower will be guided largely
by the schedules of the shows
where he intends competinf-.
Personality also is a potent
factor in choosing varieties,
for without a true love of
the flower no real success
IS possible ; thus, each cx-
liibitor will select the varie-
ties and colours he Iike>
most.

A close study of the varie-
ties since each was introduced
enables the following list,
arranged according to colour.
to be recommended as
I lioroughly triistworthy ; and
where two or more are men-
tioned, the names are given,
in the opinion of the writer,
in order of merit. Of the
novelties offered this present
.lutumn, these twelve arc
good :

King White {.\. Dickson
Mid Sons). — Without doubt
the largest white Sweet Pea
that has yet appeared ; a
vigorous grower, producing
fine, beautifully-waved blooms,
good stems.

Blue King (Bide).— A Lord Nelson in Spencer
form, good grower, carrying nicely-placed flowers
(abundance of fours), which stand rain and sunshine
well.

New Marquis (Dobbie and Co.), — An improved
stock of this much-prized mauve variety, and now
the best thing in its class.

Illuminator (Burpee and Dobbie and Co.), —
.\ richer and deeper coloured Edith Taylor, excel-
ling it also in growth and size of flowers. One of
the prettiest varieties yet raised.

Sincerity (B, W, Deal).— A deep cerise, brighter
than Kathlet-n, a novelty of the previous year, and it
is also au advance un size of flowers, of which it carries
plenty of fiiur'i. Au altogether first-class Sweet Pea,

Blue Picotee (Dobbie and Co.). — A better
variety than Mrs. Townsend, having more

substance in the flower. It makes a fine bunch for
exhibition purposes.

Phyllis (W. J, Unwin). — An improved Mrs.
\V. J, Unwin, which, in all probability, it will
oust from popular fav^air.

Edith King and Mabel Baccus (W, J, Unwin)
will delight all lovers of the Helen Pierce family.
Both are vigorous and free, and will please either
for the garden or exhibition.

Mrs. M'lllwrick (Malcolm and Dobbie and
j Co.). — A bicolor with rosy mauve standard and
j wings of a deeper tone. A vigorous grower, pro-
ducing plenty of fours. It is delightful when
{ seen growing mider glass.

Wedgewood (A. Dickson and Sons). — .\ medium
blue, superior in size and colour to Flora Norton
Spencer.

Anglian Royalty (E. W. King) attracted atten-
tion at the Chelsea Show, and lovers of this colour
should procure it. It requires to be grown in

Dobbie's Sunproof Crimson and Maud Holmes ;
scarlet — Dobbie's Scarlet, Red Star and Scarlet
Emperor ; cream pink (pale) — Gladys Burt, Mrs.
H. Dickson and Constance Oliver ; cream pink
(deep) — Margaret Atlee, Mrs. R. Hallam and
Doris Usher ; cream flake — May Campbell ;
blue flake — Loyalty ; orange flake — Mrs. W. J.
Unwin ; lavender — Lavender George Herbert
(Dobbie), R. F. Felton. Moonstone and .'^sta Ohn
Spencer ; lilac and pale mauve — Improved Bert-
rand Deal and Bertha Massey ; dark mauve —
Mrs. J. C. House and Tennant Spencer; cerise
(pale) — Edith Taylor ; cerise (deep) — Kathleen
(Deal) ; magenta — Menie Christie ; ivory — Lady
Knox ; maroon and chocolate — King Manoel,
Nubian and Red Chief Improved (Bolton) ; maroon
flake — Senator Spencer ; picotee — -Elsie Herbert,
Helen Williams and Mrs. C. W. Breadmore.
Orange shades requiring shading : Orange pink —
Edrom Beautv ; orange scarlet — Edna Unwin and

STEPPING-STONES LAID AS ADVISED IN PLAN G ON OPPOSITE PAGE.

mostlv fours, ou

partial shade, but-T did' not see this variety grow-
ing, hence cannot-'s.iy fijrther of it.

Qualcer Maid (Malcolm and Dobbie and Co.)
was first seen by me under the name of Grey
Lavender. It is a large Sweet Pea of good sub-
stance, a fine free grower, with flowers having a
dove grey standard and blue lavender wings.

Turning to varieties of previous years, in whites
we have Etta Dyke, White Queen and Nora
Unwin ; rose and carmine — Rosabelle and John
Ingman ; blush — Agricola and Mrs. Hardcastle
Sykes ; pink (pale) — Elfrida Pearson ; pink
(deep) — Hercules, Countess Spencer and Pink
Pearl ; cream — Dobbie's Cream, Deal's Giant
Cream (waved) and Clara Curtis ; bicolor — Mrs.
Cuthbertson, Mark's Tey, .\fterglow and Wenvoe
Castle ; blue (light) — W. P. Wright and Flora
Norton Spencer ; blue (dark) — Lord Nelson Spencer
(Sydenham) and Mrs. G. Charles ; crimson —

Thomas Stevenson (Dobbie) ; salmon — Barbara
or Melba ; salmon pink — Lady Miller ; fancies —
Charles Foster, Eric Har\'ey and Prince George.

Selections of varieties for garden decoration,
together with suggestions for colour effect, will
be dealt with in a future article. S. M. Crow.

RELIABLE LILIES FOR GARDEN
CULTIVATION.

There are several Oriental Lilies which, while
admirably adapted for the conservatory, are by
no means equally suitable, by reason of their
susceptibility to atmospheric influences, for garden
cultivation, such, for example, as nepalense,
Lowii, wallichianum and sulphureimi, of which,
however, the distinctive variety last mentioned
sometimes does succeed, as with Mr. Grove at
Heuley-on-Thames, during an exceptional season
of brilliant sunlight, such .as we had the rare

636

THE GARDEN.

[December 20, 1913.

privilege of experiencing this year. But this,
after all, according to my own experience, is only
the exception that • inphasises the prevailing rule.

One of the most reliable and enduring of all
Oriental Lilies is Lilium monadelphum szovitzi-
anum, a native of the Mount Caucasus regions
and of Northern Persia. I have one noble specimen
of this Lily that has flowered in the same sheltered
and shady situation for fifteen years, and rarely
reaches a height of less than 8 feet, thereby eclipsing
its attainments (for so Sir Herbert Maxwell has
assured me) at beautiful Monreith, the woods
environing which residence I can
see almost daily from this manse
across the spacious Bay of Luce.
L. m. szovitzianura is one of tlie
loveliest of all Lilies ; extremely
fascinating is the exquisite citron
colour of its pendulous flowers,
which have invariably a memor-
ably artistic effect. It is really a
much more charming Lily than
even the great Himalayan gigan-
teum, which has this disadvantage
when compared with m. szovitzi-
ajium : that it takes an offset at
least four or five years to build up
its immense flowering bulb. The
latter is sometimes — as at Monreith
— perpetuated by seeds, but this is
an extremely protracted process,
making great demands upon the
patience of the most earnest and
persevering cultivator.

It is gratifying to know that such
liandsome and comparatively re-
cent introductions as L. regale and
L. Sargentiae are as hardy and
vigorous as the familiar L. Brownii
(to which they seem to be some-
what closely affiliated) when growTi
in the open garden, and they will
assuredly be acquisitions if they are
even more enduring. But I mucli
regret to say that varieties of this
special type have never lasted for
more than two years in my garden.
One short season has generally
proved sufficient for the lifetime,
however charming, of Krameri and
rubellum, whose diminutive bulbs,
in our humid Scottish climate, too
prematurely disappear, leaving no
trace of the bulbous origin ol
their existence behind.

Speaking from long and patient
experience, I would say that the
most reliable of all Oriental and
Occidental Lilies for garden cul-
ture are auratura, especially
platyphyllum, and the attractive
forms Wittei (almost pure white)
and virginale ; szovitzianum and
giganteum ; candidum, one of
the most graceful and richly fragrant of all
Lilies, which should be even more widely
cultivated (especially for contrast among beds
of pink and crimson Roses, as in Logan Gardens
in this county) than it is ; the equally odorous
washingtonianum and the luminous scarlet
Martagon ; tigrinum splendens ; the various
charmingly contrasted varieties of elegans or
thunbergianuin ; longiflorum varieties Wilsonii
and giganteum ; Heuryii, pardalinuni, Hurbaiikii
and speciosnm maguificum.

Wigtonshire. N.B. David K. Williamson.

THE GREENHOUSE.

THE WINTERFLOWERING
BEGONIAS.

HESE Begonias are rapidly coming into
favour now that their cultural require-
ments are being more fully under-
stood. Jhey are the result of inter-
crossing the pretty Begonia socotrana,
a pink-flowered species with fibrous
roots, witli varieties of the tuberous-rooted section,
which produce such a gorgeous display during the

T

WINTER-FLOVi'ERTNG BEGONIA OPTIMA. THIS HAS BEAUTIFUL
ORANGE SALMON COLOURED FLOWERS.

summer months. Two firms stand out con-
spicuously in raising these gems, viz., Messrs.
J. Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea, and Messrs.
Clibran of Altrincham. The former were (as in
many other instances) the pioneers, and the first
plant they introduced was John Heal, named
after that veteran hybridist who has served his
firm for over fifty years. This was followed by
other novelties, such as Elatior, a semi-double
flower I'l rich rosy, carmine shade ; Ensign, alsf)
semi-double, light carmine toned with scarlet ;
Ideala, bright rosy carmine ; Mrs. Heal, brilliant

rose carmine tinged with scarlet ; The Gem, a
fine rosy red ; Winter Cheer, semi-double, rose car-
mine ; and Winter Perfection, semi-double, bright
rose pink. Those of recent introduction embrace
Optima, a lovely shade of orange salmon; Fascinator,
bright salmon ; and Ernita, a fine orange scarlet.

Of Messrs. Clibran's new kinds I would call
attention to Scarlet Beauty ; Eclipse, salmon
scarlet; Clibran's Crimson; Lucy Clibran, orange
suffused with rose ; Altrincham Pink, apricot
orange suffused with pink ; Miss Clibran, rich
blush pink ; Clibran's Pink ; and Progress, salmon
and orange, all of which have
double or semi-double flowers.

Cultural Hints. — New varieties
are ol)tained from seed, but the
amateur and general gardener will
increase his stock by the usual
method. This is by cuttings, which
may be taken any time from April
till August. They are made from
the yoimg shoots which form in the
axils of the leaves after the plants
have completed their season of rest.
Make them in the usual way by
rutting off the lower leaves and
severing the stem immediately
below a joint. Place them singly
in 2^-inch pots, using a sandy com-
post, and then arrange them in a
hand-light or small propagating-
frame where the temperature does
not fall below 70° Fahr. Directly
they have filled their pots with
roots, put them into others two
sizes larger, and so on till they
reach the flowering size. Cuttings
that are rooted in the early months
will require pots about six inches
ni diameter, and a later batch will
need 4j-inch or 5-inch receptacles.
A good rooting medium consists of
the best fibrous loam, two-thirds ;
leaf-mould, one-third ; and a little
silver sand. The loam should be
rather on the light side, and for
full-sized plants a sprinkling of
well-decayed manure may be in-
corporated with the mixture. The
pots should have one-fourth of
their depth filled with drainage,
and when repotting do not make
the compost too hard.

At this period of the year many
of these Begonias will be in flower,
and, when these are over, a partial
rest should be given until the end
of March in a temperature of 55^
to 60° Fahr. At this time they
need very careful watering ; in
fact, this may be said to be the
most critical part of their
existence. But if they are kept
moderately dry, no harm will
should aim at giving just sufficient
the stems and foliage in a healthy
condition. After growth commences, the plants
will need repotting in the mixture named above,
and they ought to be placed in a temperature of
60° or 65° Fahr. As root action becomes vigorous,
more water may be given, and at no time must
they be allowed to suffer from drought. A somewhat
moist atmosphere is essential throughout the grow-
ing period, but lui overhead spraying is advised,
and any condensation of moisture on I he leaves is
detrimental to thoir welfare. W. B.

accrue. We
to maintain

December 20, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

637

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HOW TO PROPAGATE CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

THE Chrysanthemum is not a difficult
plant to propagate. Indeed, it is one
of the easiest, and the majority of
the varieties produce cuttings very
freely. .Mthough it is a simple
matter to increase the stock, or to
renew it by means of cuttings, the best results
are only obtained when these are carefully

A. CHRYSANTHEMUM SHOOTS SUITABLE AND

UNSUITABLE FOR CUTTINGS, AND HOW TO
PREPARE THE GOOD ONES FOR PLANTING.

treated, rooted under the best conditions, and cared
for afterwards as they require more rooting space
and head-room. Amateur cultivators may succeed
in striking 90 per cent, of all cuttings inserted
if they possess an ordinary garden frame, and
95 per cent, if they can make use of a greenhouse.
In the unheated frame there is much moisture
to contend with during the months of December,
January and February. From a greenhouse only
slightly heated, all excessive moisture can be
e.xpeUed. Preference should, therefore, be given
to propagation on a greenhouse stage, if both
frame and stage are available.

Good and Bad Cuttings. — There are three
quaUties in cuttings to be fomid every year,
namely : Suckers growing from the soil in the old
pots without buds prematurely formed ; suckers
possessing flower-buds ; and young shoots growing

from the stems of the old plants. The first named
must always be used, if obtain ble ; the second
and third kinds where new varieties and others
that are very shy in producing cuttings are con-
cerned. It is, however, much the wisest plan to
purchase cuttings, if this can be done. Even in
the case of strong cuttings, some from a distance
would thrive better than old stock that has been
propagated from for a number of years.

It is advisable to propagate some cuttings later —
in January and February — and when this course
is decided upon, select the strong suckers, remove
all weakly ones, and so strengthen the former for
use in due time. Now, towards the end of
December the cultivator must make a selection
of the varieties he intends to propagate. They
will be, first, those that are late flowering, followed
by the medium early, the earliest of all being in-
serted at a later date. Late-flowering sorts should
be allowed a long period of growth, as they are
naturally late in making the first break, and also
in producing the crown bud that is usually
" taken."

Soil lor Cuttings. — Use the very best
procurable, as it must remain round the roots
throughout the growing season. There can be no
better compost than one made of fibrous loam
and leaf-soil in equal proportions for the strong-
growing varietie and rather more leaf-soil than
loam for the weak -growing ones. Plenty of coarse
sand must be add n every case.

The Sketches t :ained. — Fig. A, No. i, shows
a good, free-growirij, cutting, the stem of which
must be severed just below a joint with a sharp
knife. No. 2 represents a bad cutting with a
flower-bud in the point of growth. No. 3 shows
a rooted sucker ; the rooted portion must not be
inserted ; cut off the stem as denoted by the
dark line. No. 4 depicts a good cutting prepared
for insertion. If a cutting is severed between
the joints, it will decay, as shown at No. 5. No. 6
represents a cutting bearing buds ; if topped, this
kind usually produces more buds, as shown at No. 7.

In Fig. B, No. i shows how to insert cuttings
round the side of a pot ; No. 2, the callus forming ;
No. 3, the new roots ; No. 4, a cutting inserted
singly in a pot ; No. 5, cuttings in a small frame
on a greenhouse stage ; and No. 6, cuttings in
pots in a cold frame. Water with care at all
times, and ventilate a little every day. G. G.

following will get the full benefit from the enriched
soil. It is only necessary to keep the manure in
an open shed, or to cover it sufficiently to prevent
water passing through. Shamrock.

HINTS ON STORING DAHLIAS.

After lifting, Dahlia tubers should be well
dried before storing. For those possessing ample
suitable accommodation, the actual storing
presents but little difficulty ; but there are many
not so fortunately situated, and who hardly
know how to preserve the tubers through the
winter. This latter class of gardeners should
give the storing in clamps a trial, for when this is
rightly done the tubers winter well and later
grow satisfactorily. Choose a dry site for the
clamp, raise the tubers from direct contact with the
ground surface by, first, a few thorns or a splined
platform — in either case well covered with dry
Wheaten straw — and, having arranged the tubers
pyramid fashion, cover well with enough dry straw

HINTS ON MANURING SOILS.

When winter comes, the thoughts of the cultivator
turn to the question of manuring, especially in
the case of the application of manure to the vege-
table groimd. Experienced cultivators use their
judgment and only apply manure to heavy soils
now, reserving manures for light land until the
spring. When organic manures are kept for several
months, during the winter season they should
be protected from all rains, as, if exposed in large
or small heaps, the greater portion of the plant
food would be washed away, and the better course
to take would be to bury it, even in the light groimd.
Heavy, retentive soils may be manured now, and,
indeed, in dry weather at any time during the
winter ; but light soils must not be manured before
the months of February and March. Then the crops

6

I777

B. HOW TO PLANT THE CUTTINGS AND THEIR

SUBSEQUENT TREATMENT IN GREENHOUSE
OR FRAME.

to preserve them from frost. Now cover the whole
well with earth, as when clamping Potatoes,
leaving a wisp of straw projecting at the centre
to ensure ventilation, and then thatch the clamp
securely. The result will rarely fail to please,
and will solve the storing difficulty. J. T. B.

638

THE GARDEN.

[December 20, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Pleasure Grounds.

Rhododendrons. — Established beds uf Rhodo-
dendrons are very much benefited by a top-dressing
of old spent hot-bed manure, or even leaf-mould.
These being surface-rooting plants, it is not wise
to fork over the beds. Such a top-dressing will
keep the plants in a good vigorous condition,
with the foliage green and more or less erect,
according to the variety. Starved plants, even
in the winter, are yellow in appearance, the foliage
looking as though it is flagging.

Hardy Azaleas are also greatly benefited by a
mulch of this description. Then, again, the colour
and size of the bloom are much enhanced, while
the foliage is larger and brighter.

Flowering Shrubs. — The extreme mildness
of the winter has much to answer for. Here in
these gardens we have had several varieties of
the shrubby Spiraea in bloom during November
and December, while Berberis Darwinii, in several
instances, has given a full crop of bloom. B.
stenophylla is not so precocious, only isolated
shoots having opened their blooms ; but so forward
are the buds that one is greatly concerned as to
the amount of damage that a hard frost will do,
and certainly it does not augur well for a good
show of blossom in the spring.

The Flower Garden.

Bedding Geraniums. — Where these are rooted
in boxes or several in a pot, it may be advisable
to get them potted off singly as soon as possible,
as they have made a good deal of growth this autumn
and, being close together, there is danger of their
becoming imduly drawn. It may be argued that
it is early for this operation, and so it is ; but it
is better to do it now, when, perhaps, there is more
time, than to leave it till February-, when work is
generally more pressing.

Pelargonium Maxime Kovalevsky. — This some-
what new orange scarlet variety should prove
effective for bedding if it is floriferous enough.
I have seen two or three beds of this variety,
and in each instance it was perfectly satisfactory.
Not having used it for bedding purposes, I cannot
definitely state that it is a good continuous
bloomer, but hope to prove it during 1914.

Plants Under Glass.

Liliums in variety that are being forwarded
for Christmas should have the stamens removed
as they open — this to keep the flowers clean ;
and wherever possible the plants should be removed
as the flowers open to a cooler house to keep them in
good condition as long as possible.

Lachenalias. — .^though these plants do not
like forcing in any way, those that are in frames
may with advantage be removed to a light, airy
house. If left in frames too long, the foliage gets
big and soft. The drier atmospheric conditions
prevailing in a house hardens the foliage, and the
plants when in bloom have a much better appearance.

Freesias. — For the same reason Freesias are
much better in a cool house. Plants that are well
rooted may be given liquid animal manrffe whenever
they are dry, this being preferable to artificial
manure, and it will tend to increase the size of the
blooms.

Humea elegans. — This subject requires very-
careful cultivation, especially during the winter
months. The plants must at no time be allowed to get
dry, as this is fatal to the foliage. Potting on
also must be done before the roots become too
densely matted together in the pots, and if in
4j-inch or 6-inch pots, the next shift should be
mto their flowering pots — 8J-inch being a very
suitable size, though if the plants are warited for
use in small groups, a few should be left in fairly
small pots, or they will grow too large.

The Kitchen Garden.

Forcing Frames that are not m use should,
if possible, be overhauled and painted, but do not
make the mistake of using any of the tar preparations
as a preventive of rot. The fumes that arise from
them will prove a nuisance for months. Lettuce,
Beans, Radishes, &c., all being burnt by them every
time the sim comes out at all powerful, even though
there may be plenty of air on the frames at the time.

During Wet Weather lights may be scrubbed,
large labels made and painted, and stakes sharpened
and arranged in different lengths for the various
purposes for which they may be required.

The Root Shed also should be looked over
as the opportimity ofiers, removing any subjects
that show the slightest evidence of decay. Late
Potatoes that may have been put away in bulk
should certairdy be gone over, selecting any that
may be required for seed, while the really small
ones should be given to the pigs or poultry after
being boiled.

Rhubarb. — Further supplies should be put
in the forcing-house, as with the turn of the year
.A.pples and stewing Pears wUl be scarcer, and
Rhubarb is always welcomed in the kitchen as a
change.

Lettuce and Cauliflower. — Seeds may now be

sown for early crops in frames. Of the former. Golden
BaU, Tom Thumb and AH the Year Rotmd are the
best varieties in the order named ; while for Cauli-
flowers I have found Carter's Forerunner as good
as any.

Tomatoes. — A sowing of Tomatoes should also
be made to succeed those sown or propagated
from cuttings in the autumn. Sow thinly and
keep very near the glass, or the seedlings will soon
become attenuated at this season. The smaller
varieties of Tomatoes are best for early work,
the variety Sunrise being excellent.

The Hardy Fruit Garden.

Pruning. — This should be continued as the weather
permits. Having made an early start, it gives
one a chance to select or choose the more favourable
days for pushing on ^'ith the work. Pyramid
and bush trained .\pples and Pears cannot well
be kept too open, and wherever possible the branches
should be about two feet apart, this allowing a
maximum of light and air between them. In very
many instances, even in otherwise well-kept
gardens, enough attention is not paid to this matter,
and were the pruning-saw used rather more, better
results would often be obtained in some of the older,
and consequently larger trees.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)
Woburn Place Gardens, Addlestone, Surrey.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Flower Garden.

Top-Dressing. — There are various perennials
which, when grown in beds or masses of any kind,
are benefited by an annual top-dressing. Lily
of the Valley is one of these, for imless liberally
cultivated, good spikes and large blooms cannot
be obtained. From 2 inches to 3 inches of spent
hot-bed or Mushroom manure makes an excellent
top-dressing either for Lily of the Valley or for
Daffodil beds, especially the commoner varieties,
where they are grown in masses for cutting. Dog's-
tooth Violets, Scdlas and Grape Hyacinths should
receive about an inch of maiden loam ; failing
this, old potting soU, with a little manure such
as I have just indicated. Varieties of Primula
Sieboldii should also have a similar top-dressing,
but only just deep enough to cover the fleshy
rhizomes.

Marking Bulbous Plants. — Where valuable
bulbous plants are interspersed among the general
run of hardy border flowers, it is often dlfdcult
to locate them when wanted, some of them ripen-
ing their foliage early in the summer, while others
have not begun to push when the beds or borders
are being forked or dug over in the spring. To
obviate the difficulty I have fotmd it a good plan
to insert a green-painted hard-wood peg about
an inch thick at each plant or clump. A stock
of these pegs could be made and painted during bad
weather, to be ready for use when growth com-
mences in the spring. Oak or Ash is ven,' suitable
for this purpose.

The Rock Garden.

The Beginner's Selection.— Those who are

commencing rock gardening on a moderate scale,
and are imdecided as to what to order for early

spring planting, will be well advised not to be
too ambitious at the start, or disappointments
are sure to follow. Commence with things that
succeed with ordinary cultivation. One can
never be far wrong with a good selection of Cam-
panulas, Phloxes, Primulas (for the lower reaches),
Saxifrages, Dianthuses, Myosotis rupicola, Aubrie-
tias, Lithospermum prostratum, Saponaria ocy-
moides, Veronicas and Viola gracilis. I would
also include that gem Daphne blagayana. which,
unlike any of the foregoing, requires stony
peat. All the others indicated will thrive in either
rich or light loam.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Clothing Tree Stumps.— Where trees have
been cut down to the ground and the process of
grubbmg out the roots is considered rather trouble-
some, the stumps can be mounded over with soil
and then planted with some of the Mossy Saxi-
frages or Sedums.

Summer-Houses. — Those intending to invest
in a summer-house have great choice. There is
the ready-made, portable, revolving type ; also
the substantial and durable tvpe covered with
rustic work of Larch, Spruce "or Oak. During
this autumn I revisited one in .Aberdeenshire
which I have known for half a century. Inside
it is done in rustic work with split Hazel. It
has been revamished from time so time, and it
looks as fresh to-day as it cUd fifty vears ago.
Much, however, can be said in favour of the inex-
pensive plain wood in summer-houses, covered
with natural climbing plants, Honeysuckle, Hops,
Clematises, Roses and other quick-growing plants.

Plants Under Glass.
The Chrysanthemum Order. — Those who intend

purchasing new varieties should place their orders
without delay. A perusal of the trade lists wall
show that the singles are now in the ascendant,
and I will confine myself to suggesting a few varie-
ties of these which aire well worth growing ; Ceddie
White, chestnut, with gold centre ; Ivor Grant,
rose pink, with white zone ; Josephine, golden
yellow ; Manor House Terra Cotta ; Mensa,
white ; Golden Mensa ; Mrs. Loo Thomson, a
primrose sport from Mensa ; Sylvia Slade, rosy
garnet, with white band round the disc ; and Red
Chief, chestnut. Ceddie White makes lovely
sprays, but all the other varieties indicated had
better be disbudded.

Christmas Decorations. — The extent and
character of these must depend upon the size of
the rooms, the taste of the owner, and the quantity
of material available. Evergreens, Holly and
Ivy are always useful. Berried plants are generally
acceptable. Solanums, Rivinia humilis, Cratsegus
Pyracantha, Cotoneaster microphylla, C. Simonsii
and Skimmia japonica are all eligible. White
flowers, too, are always in good taste, and should
include Roman and other white Hyacinths, Paper-
White Narcissus, Ldium Harrisii and Lily of the
Valley. Simplicity should be the aim of the
decorator. A trail of Ivy twined naturally roimd
the stem of a tall reading lamp cannot be improved
upon, nor can a sprig of berried Holly in the hand
of a statuette.

Fruits Under Glass.

Potting Off Early Tomatoes. — Where Tomato

seed was sow-n last month for early use, the seed-
lings will now be fit for potting oft', and care must
be taken with the seedlings, or damping off is
likely to ensue. Use 2j-inch pots and employ a
fairly sandy loam mthout any fertiliser. Instead
of placing the plant in the centre of the pot, put
it on one side, and this will reduce the risk of
damping off. Place the plants m as light a position
as possible, with a temperature of about 55°, and
water rather sparingly. Retain the surplus plants
for a time, lest damping off should take place.

The Vegetable Garden.

Top-Dressing Mint. — Mmt is a very exhausting
crop, and should receive a good, rich top-dressing
annually. The early spring is perhaps the ideal
time for this ; but a hundred things require
attention then, and it can be done now with
advantage.

Greens. — Do not throw away the stems when the
plants have been cut over ; they will yield a second
crop in the sprmg. Charles Comi-ort.

Broomfield Gardens, Davidson^ Mains, Midlothian,

December 20, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

639

GARDENING ACROSTICS.

A S announced in our issue for November 22,

/% we are publishing eight gardening

/ % acrostics, to be divided into two sets of

/ % four each. Each light correctly guessed

• * will count one, and also each " first "

and each " last." Thus, supposing

the whole is China (6rsts), Aster (lastsl, the

full marks will be seven — one for China, one

for .-^ster, and one for each of the five lights

C . . . A, H . . . S, I . . . T, N . . . E and

A . . . R. Hence, suppose a competitor got

everything right but the light I ... T, he would

count si.x, and it would not matter if he attempted

to solve that particular light or not.

Those entering for the acrostics must observe
the rules published on page 607 of the issue for
December 6.

DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. 3.

Firsts — One of the oldest artificial forms of
gardening. Matius introduced me into Rome.

Lasts — The very latest absurdity of our neigh-
bours across the Channel.

1. The author of these lines :

■' How well the skilful gardener drew
Of flowers, and herbs, this dial new ;
Where from above the milder sun
Does through a fragrant zodiac run,
And as it works, the industrious bee
Computes its time as well as we !
How could such sweet and wholesome hours
Be reckoned but with herbs and flowers."

2. The surname of the man who first wrote an

English book on flowers, not in the
" herbal " style.

3. A mysterious disease, so affecting the leaves

of certain trees as to suggest its name.

4. A chorister and courtier, a farmer and poet,

from whom we get many pre-Gerardian
hints about English gardens.

5. A species of Tree Mallow known to Aber-

crombie, but which only last year received
an award of merit.

6. .\ Pear of Shakespeare's day, possibly intro-

duced by Leland.

7. Devil's Dye.

S. I am half covered with a cupula.
1). The Swan River Everlasting.

10. Stored up by the Dahlia.

11. A special bite noire of Repton's.

Solulions of the above must be sent so as to reach
the Editor at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden,
London, W.C., not later than the first post on Saturday,
December 27. Mark the envelope "Acrostic" in
the top left-hand corner.

SOLUTION AND NOTES OF DOUBLE
ACROSTIC No. 1.

CLIMBER — TENDRIL.

* I. C AS T

t 2. L ETTUC E

t 3. I -XIOLIRIO N

§ 4. M AUN D

II 5. B AKE R

U 6. E ICHLER I

** 7. R UNCIVAL L

* Flower-pots are usually sold by the " cast " —
sixty small 3-inch pots go to a cast, t See
■' History of Cultivated Vegetables," second
edition. Vol. I., pages 316 and 317, by H. Phillips.
X The Ixiolirion tatariciun is probably hardy in
light, sandy soils ; it has lovely blue flowers, which
remind people of Freesias ; they last well in water.
§ The quotation is from Mrs. Earle's " Pot-pourri

in a Surrey Garden." || J. G. Baker of Kew.
1 Eichleri is one of the best of the newer
" species " Tulips for garden decoration ; see
Botanical Magazine, plate 6191 •* Tusser, who
wrote " Five Hundred Pointes of Good Hus-
b.indrie," thus speaks of the runcivall pea :
■' Dig garden, stroy mallow, now may ye at ease,

And set (as a dainte) thy runcivall pease."
— Quoted in " History of Gardening in England,"
third edition, page 86.

RESULT OF ACROSTIC No. I.

In accordance with our rules, it was possible
for competitors to get nine marks for this acrostic,
one for each of the seven lights and one for each
correct " first " or " last." The following marks
have been awarded :

Nine marks.—" W. R. D.," " Elm," R. Chap-
man, " White Lady," " Hero " and L. A. Louden.

Eight marks. — " Mona," " Nautilus," " Jan,"
G. Tolson, " Ping," " Erbel," " Rusticus,"
"Judith," " Penwame," " Westbank," " Shelah "
and " Tortoise."

Seven marks. — " Iris," " Tempus Fugit,"
" E. C. F.," " Miss Marindin," Mrs. Devenish
" Miller " and " Boarsvale."

Six marks.- — " Anna Olivier " and William
Slocombe.

Five marks. — " St. Kevins," " Mowgli," G. D.
King and " P. P."

Four marks. — A. Henderson.

Two marks. — " Teutamen," M. Browne, Wm.
.\cwalt and G. B. Bassett.

One mark. — " Glevum."

OBITUARY.

MARTIN JOHN SUTTON.

It is with deep regret that we have to record the
death, in his sixty-fourth year, of Mr. Martin J.

Sutton, J.P., which occurred suddenly on Sun-
day last at the Piccadilly Hotel, London.
He was the head of the famous Reading firm, and
had been staying in London for the Smithfield
Club Show, of which he was a vice-president. An
anaesthetic had been administered to him for a
dental operation, and death ensued. Mr. Sutton
was the eldest son of the late Mr. Martin Hope
Sutton, who, with his brother, .-Ufred, founded the
seed establishment at Reading. He entered the
business at the age of sixteen, and in 1871, when he
came of age, was taken into partnership by his
father and uncle. In 1887 he became head of the
firm, and continued so until his death. It was in
agricultural circles that Mr. Sutton was most
widely known. For nearly a quarter of a centurj'
he was a leading member of the Royal Agricultural
Society, while he was connected %vith various other
societies, including the Bath and West Society,
the Royal Counties Society and the Smithfield
Club. Mr. Sutton was much appreciated as a
writer on agricultural subjects, his best-known
work being " Permanent and Temporary' Pastures."
To the end he continued to supervise actively the
business of the firm, and only a few months ago,
in conjunction with his brothers and sons, he
conducted the negotiations, so important in the
horticultural world, in taking over Messrs. Veitch's
seed business and the nursery at t.angley, Slough.
Mr. Sutton was a great philanthropist, being a
generous subscriber to religious, social and other
clubs. He was a Knight of Grace of the Order of
the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem in England
and a Chevalier of the legion of Honour. H?
resided at Wargrave Manor, Berkshire, and was a
Justice of the Peace for Reading and for Oxfordshire,
a member of the Berkshire County Council, and
Mayor of Reading in 1904. Mr. Sutton was twic«
married, his second marriage taking place in 1912.
There are two sons and a daughter by the first
marriage, the latterjbeing the wife of the Vicar of
Wargrave.

JOHN PEARSON.

Mr. John Pearson, the gardener at Beechwood,
Murrayfield, Edinburgh, died on December 10,
and many will receive the news of his death with
regret. Mr. Pearson was in his seventieth year,
and was much respected for his character and for
his ability as a gardener.

THE LATE MARTIN JOHN SUTTON.
(.Phcta BtliM and Pri,.)

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

THE GREENHOUSE.

ARDM LILIES GONE WRONG (.Reader).— U the plants
were healthy before, we should say that the cause of the
leaves bemg discoloured and turning yellow must lie
found in the soil or m the water given them. Have you
used artificial mamu-es too freely, or have you given toe
much soot ?

BEGONIA GLOIRE DE SCEADX {W. H.).— ThU
Begonia was raised by MM. Thibault et Keteleer of Sceaux
in France, and distributed by them in 1885. By the
raisers it was announced as a hybrid between Begon»
socotrana and B. sub-peltata, but doubts have before
now been expressed as to whether B. socotrana had any
part in its origin. At all events, no fiuther information
on the pomt can be gahied. It is Indeed a beautiful
Begonia, regarded either from a flowering or foliage
point of view.

ADVICE ABOUT A GREENHOUSE (N. B. i)— Th,e
amount of ventilation required in the greenhouse will
to a certaui e.xtent depend upon the class of plants yon
intend to grow therein. It is, however, a good plan to
ensure ample ventilation, and the ventilators not required
may be kept closed. Of course, the main ventilation
will be at the apex of the roof, and may be arranged in
various ways. If the house has a lantern on the top,
the side of the lantern may be hinged on the upper part
and open at the bottom by means of a ratchet acthig on
all the ventilators at the same thne. This is, of course,

640

THE GARDEN.

[December 20, 1913.

the most expensive system of all, but decidedly the best-
Another plan, if there is no lantern, is to have hinged
lights along the top, extending the whole lenstli of the
house, but disposed alternately. These should be so
arranged as to allow of the opening being 15 inches in
depth. This will be enough roof ventilation, even on a
hot day. Besides this, three traps should be worked in
each of the side walls at about half their height. These
traps, if 18 inches long and 8 inches or 9 inches wide,
will be extremely useful for opening, especially in bad
weather. The height of the central stage will, of course,
depend upon the plants that are intended to stand thereon,
but 3 feet would for general purposes be a very good height.
TREATMENT OF OLIVIAS (Anxiety).— The Clivias
that have been outside during the summer should be
wintered in a greenhouse In which a minimum night
temperature of 45° feo 48" is maintained. They should,
during the winter, be kept on what is usually termed the
"dry" side, that is to say, enough water must be given
to keep the soil moderately moist, but on no account must
they be watered till they absolutely require it. Clivias
flower, as a rule, during the spring" months, but one or
two uncommon kinds bloom in autumn and \vintor.
If the roots are in good condition, the plants will stand for
three or four years without repotting, and keep in good
health even if they are pot-bound. A 10-inch pot should
be sufficient for a large specimen. If repotting is necessary,
it must be done immediately after flowering, using a
compost made up principally of fibrous loam, with a little
leaf-mould and sand, and, if available, some small nodules
of charcoal. Throughout the summer the plants may be
watered somewhat liberally, but the newly-potted ones will
not require so much water as those that are estabhshed.
These last may, when growing, be assisted with an
occasional stimulant, either one of the many plant foods
now on the market or a mixture of liquid manure and soot-
water combined. In any case, as with all plants that
have thick fleshy roots, only a weak dose of stimulant
must be given, otherwise the roots may be injured.

MISCEI.LANEOUS.

SHRUB FOR A LOW PORCH (R. W. ii.).— You will
find Berberidopsis corallina a suitable climber for the
position indicated. It is a native of Chili, and bears a
profusion of showy, coral red blossoms. It has also the
merit of being evergreen.

MILLIPEDES (3. A. F.)— The little pests you send
are millipedes. They are extremely troublesome pests,
and very diflQcult to eradicate. They feed on all sorts of
fleshy roots and even large seeds, and do enormous damage.
Liming the soil is the best method of dealing with them,
but where plants are growing this cannot be easily done,
and it would be well to bury pieces of Potato or Carrot,
marking the places with sticks, and examine and remove
the captures every few days, dropping them into paraffin
or boiling water.

PLASTER OF PARIS AS A MANURE (E. L. B.).—
You may certainly use the plaster of Paris moulds in
the way you suggest. Plaster of Paris is sulphate of
lime or gypsum from which the water of crystallisation
has been expelled, and which takes up water when it is
able to get it again and sets in a hard mass. If this mass
be ground again to a powder, it is practically the same as
sulphate of lime, and may be added to soil for the same
purpose as that substance is used. The sulphate is not
quite so good in counteracting acidity of the soil as are
some of the other forms of lime, but at the same time it
has a very beneficial elfect upon the soil, and both clays
and sands are made more productive by its use.

NAMES OF PLANTS. — TT. E. P.—l, Solanum jas-
minoidcs ; 2, CoroniUa Bmerus; 3, Nephrolepis cordifolia ;

4, Campanula isophylla. C. 5. S. J., Edinburgh. — 1.

Thymus Serpyllum lanuginosus; 2, Saxifraga cuneifolia ;
3, Veronica etliptica; 4, Lonicera species, cannot name
without flowers; 5, Erysimum nipestre; 6, Tolmitea
Menziesii ; 7, cannot name without flowers ; 8. Erigeron
alpinus variety ; 9, Claytonia sibirica (probably) ; 10,
Sedum prealtum; 11, Selaginella kraussiana ; 12. Trades-
cantia crassifolia.

SOCIETIES.

THE NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY.

Thk annual general meeting of the above society was held
at the Westminster Palace Hotel, Victoria Street, West-
minster, on Thursday, the 11th inst. Mr. C. E. Shea, the
president, was in the chair, and a large number of members
were present. After the minutes of the previous meeting
had been taken as read, scrutineers of the ballot were
appointed, these being Messrs. C. C. Williams and H. E.
Mount. Before commencing to read the report of the
Council for 1913, Mr. E. Mawley, V.M.H., the hon. secretary,
read a telegram from Mr. E. T. Cook, president of the Eose
Society of Canada, conveying good wishes from the
Canadian Society to the National Rose Society. The
following are the salient points of the report :

" During the past twelve months, with one exception,
more new members have joined the society than in any
previous year. For the flrst time in the history of the
society the number of members exceeds six thousand.

In order to encourage growing Roses under glass, a
new departure this year was made by holding a spring
show in the Royal Horticultural Hall, Westmmster, on
May 1. Considering it was the first exhibition of the kind
ever held In this country, and that the cold and sunless
weather somewhat upset the grower's calculations as to
the date, it must be regarded as having been, on the whole.

a success, and judging from the interest displayed by the
members and their friends in the exhibits, this spring
Rose show of the society promises to become an extremely
helpful and popular exhibition.

The metropolitan show again took place, by the kind
permission of the President and Council of the Royal
Botanic Society, in their beautiful gardens in Regent's
Park, the date of the exhibition being July 4. Favoured
by the season and the weather on and before the show
day, this proved the largest and finest exhibition the
society has ever held. The attendance of members and
their friends was also larger than on any previous occasion.
The provincial show took place at Gloucester on July 15.
This, too, was a fine and extensive exhibition ; indeed,
larger than either of the three previous provincial shows.
The arrangements for the exhibition were excellent, and
admirably carried out by the hon. secretary, Mr. W. H.
Pickford, assisted by other members of the local committee.
The autumn exhibition, which was held in the Royal
Horticultural Hall, Westminster, on September 11 and 12,
proved one of the smallest and least attractive shows of
the kind the society has yet held. This was, no doubt,
owing to the dry and otherwise unfavourable character
of the weather, so far as Roses were concerned, during the
summer and early autumn of this year.

During the past year the * Rose Annual for 1913,'
containing for the flrst time some coloured illustrations,
was distributed to the members in April, while a new edition
of the ' Official Catalogue of Roses ' was sent out In
November.

At the last annual general meeting the Dean Hole
Memorial Medal was awarded to Mr. George Dickson of
Newtownards, County Down, Ireland, for the great services
he has rendered to the Rose during the past half century
in raising so many new Roses of special merit, and as one
of the most successful pioneers in the scientific hybridisa-
tion of Roses.

The number of societies in affiliation with the National
Rose Society is now fifty-five, or about the same as in the
previous year.

The Council record, with regret, the death in January
last of Mr. Alfred Tate, since 1904 a vice-president of the
society, and a keen rosarian. His Rose garden at Leather-
head was the largest and finest in the kingdom, and his
exhibits of decorative Roses were the best ever staged by
an amateur. He was regarded with the highest esteem
by all who knew him.

They also regret to announce the death in October last
of Mr. J. T. Strange, whose genial nature endeared him to
all with whom he came in contact in the Rose world. He
was one of the society's oldest members, having joined
the National Rose Society in 1877, when he was^at once
elected on the Council, and last year he became a vice-
president of the society.

Judging by the amount received in gate-money from
the general public at the exhibition in the Royal Botanic
Gardens there was a good attendance of visitors. The
receipts from all sources during the past year, including
a balance from the previous year of £442 12s. 2d., amounted
to £4,061 6s. 5d., and the expenditure to £3,586 10s. 6d.,
leaving a balance at the bankers of £474 15s. lid., after
£500 had been placed to the reserve fund, which now
stands at £2,000.

During the past year 1,045 new members have joined
the society, or a greater number than in any previous
year except 1910, when the number of new members
was 1,050. Allowing for the losses by death and resigna-
tion, the total number of members is now 6,035. Taking
the year as a whole, nearly three new members a day have
l>een added to the list of membership.

The spring show will take place in the Royal Horti-
cultural Hall, Vincent Square, W'estminster, on St. George's
Day, Thursday. April 23.

The metropolitan exhibition will be held in the Royal
Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park, on Tuesday, July 7.

The provincial exhibition will take place, at the invita-
tion of the Mayor and Corporation of Bath, in the Sydney
Gardens of that city on Thursday, July 16.

The autumn exhibition will be held in the Royal Horti-
cultural Hall, Vincent Square, Westminster, on Thursday,
September 24."

The financial statement was next read by the hon.
treasurer Mr. G. W, Cook.

The president, in proposing the adoption of the report
and financial .statement, welcomed the ladies who were
present, and drew attention to the fact that the year
had been one of records and the most satisfactory in the
annals of the society. They had put by the biggest sum
by £200 than they had ever put on deposit before. The
literature sent out had been better than ever. There was
still more and better to come, so that members would get
more than value for their money. The proposition was
seconded by Mr. Frank Cant. In doing so, he said the
balance sheet spoke for itself. He thought the distribution
of useful literature was one of the wisest steps the Council
ever took.

Mr. Lewis Pawle said he thought it was unwise to keep in-
vesting in Consols. Mr. Johnson said he would like to see
ladies on the Council. He criticised the methods of voting.
That afternoon one hundred or so members had elected
the Council. All the county members were disfranchised.
He would like a postal vote. Mr. W. J. Grant supported
this. Mr. E. J. Holland spoke against the postal vote,
and also said that it was quite open for ladies to be put on
the Council if members would take the trouble to nominate
them. The report and financial statement were, after
other friendly discussion, carried unanimously.

The chairman then proposed that an honorarium of
£150 be granted Mr. Mawley as an appreciation of his
services. This was seconded by Mr. G. W. Cook. Mr.
Mawley had done, and was still doing, a vast amount
of valuable work for the society, and they could well afford

to increase his honorarium from £100 to £160. This was
unanimously agreed to with acclamation. Mr. Mawley,
in responding, said the most difiicult nut he ever had to
crack was to express his appreciation of what had been
said.

The next business was the alteration of certain niles
and by-laws, full particulars of which had been sent t«
every member. Only one of these, viz., By-law No. 7,
gave rise to any appreciable discussion. The proposed
alterations in this by-law were for the purpose of more
clearly defining what is meant by an amateur, and we
pnblish this herewith, the alterations being in italics :
" By the word nurseryman is understood a person who
maintains a garden, or other horticultural establishment,
for the purpose of returning him a profit. By the word
amateur is understood a person who maintains a garden
with a view to his owti use and enjoyment, and not for the
purpose of gaining a profit. No person shall be allowed to
compete as an amateur who sells Rose plants. Rose blooms,
or buds for budding. As exceptions to the foregoing (a)
an amateur may sell his Rose plants when giving up posse.tsion
of the garden or place ivhere they hare been grou>n, and [b)
an amateur may sell new seedlings or sports of his own
raising, but only to nurserymen. No person shall be allowed
to compete as an amateur ivho is a resident member of a house-
hold where a nursenj business is carried on, nor any person
ivho issues a catalogue or price list of Roses, buds for budding,
or other horticultural produce. No lady may exhibit as
an amateur who is engaged in the fioral or horticultural
trade, or who is herself a paid gardener, or paid fioral
decorator, or who is a resident member of the familv of one
engaged in such trade or employment. Anv objection
raised as to the rightful qualification of an exhibitor shall
be referred to the Council for arbitration, and their decision
shall be final and binding on all parties."

Dr. Waddell, the Rev. J. H. Pemberton and one or two
others protested against the proposed alterations, on the
grounds that amateurs who raised new seedlings were
deprived from recuperating themselves financially to the
fullest extent. It was to the amateur that they must look
for new breaks in seedling Roses, and the National Rose
Society ought to encourage amateurs instead of putting
obstacles in their way. After a good deal of discussion
the proposed alterations were carried by a large majority.
The ballot for election of members of the Council resulted
in all the proposed members being elected with the excep-
tion of Mr. R. F. Felton.

After the meeting a conversazione was held, when light
refreshments were served, or, rather, scrambled for,' to
the accompaniment of delightful music. We would suggest
that the Council another year hold this pleasant gathering
at the Albert Hall or some other large building, so that
the large number of members and friends can meet in
comfort.

Proposed Edinburgh Winter Garden,— For

a considerable time a proposal to erect a winter
garden in the West Princes Street Gardens, Edin-
burgh, has been under the consideration of the
Town Council, and several schemes have had much
attention paid to them. The proposals were
decidedJy advanced at a meeting of the sub-
committee appointed for the purpose of considering
the matter on December ii, when it was unani-
mously agreed to recommend to the Lord Provost's
Committee, which has charge of the consideration
of the subject, that a winter garden be erected.
Should the committee accept the scheme, and should
it be agreed to by the Town Council, the City of
Edinburgh would be in possession of a structure
which would be a source of much advantage and
enjoyment not only to the citizens, but also to the
many visitors. At present the latter have few
public places in which to shelter in inclemen t
weather, except the somewhat dreary expanse of
the Waverley Market under its ordinary conditions.
The scheme, which has been prepared by Mr. J. W.
M'Hattie, the Parks Superintendent, and Mr. J. A.
Williamson, City Superintendent of Works, is
estimated to cost about ten thousand pounds.
It provides for the erection of a winter garden
composed of stonework and steel, and situated
at the east end of the West Princes Street Gardens,
next the Mound, and in what is at present about
the least attractive part of these gardens. The
building would provide seating accommodation
for a large number of persons, with suitable
provision for plants, together with promenades
decorated with flowers and plants. The plans
appear to be excellent in conception and in design.

*** The Yearly Subscription to The Garden is : Inland
s. Gd. ; Foreign, 8s. 9d.

life^

s^^t^r-^-

GARDEN.

-:a^=

IiS5^^^«^''^ ^ M

No. 2197.— Vol. LXXVIl.

December 27, 1913.

CONTENTS.

841

Notes of the Week
Correspondence
Snow in the garden
Hints to compilers

of schedules
Which is the Guern-
sey Lily ? . . . .
Early Tomatoes in

Canada
Acantholimon venus-

tum

Forthcoming events. .

t'LowER Garden
The herbaceous
Spiraeas
Some PEOUUiRiTiES

OF Mistletoe
Kitchen Garden
Seasonable notes on
vegetables . .
Greenhouse
Greenhouse Heuths in

winter (>i5

EOCK AND Water Garden
The designin;;, con-
struction and '
planting of rock
gardens . . . . 646 \

642
642

642
643

643
843

643

644

644

Rock and Water Garden
The Gibraltar Candy-
tuft 846

Trees and Shrubs
Trees and shrubs
with ornamental

bark 647

Rose Garden
In a Hampshire gar-
den 647

New and Rare

Plants 648

The Tangierian Iris . . 648
Gardening for Beoinners
Hints on planting
new shrubberies . . 649
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 680

For Northern gar-
dens 650

Gardening Acrostics 651

The Naming of Tulip
Breaks 651

answers to Corre-
spondents . . . . 652

Editor's Table . . 852

ILLUSTRATIONS.

A winter scene 642

Some peculiarities of Mistletoe 644

Erica hyemalis 645

The Gibraltar Candytuft (IberLs gibraltarica) . . 646

Silver Birches in the woodland 647

The Tangierian Iris 648

Hints on planting new shrubberies 649

BDITORIJIL NOTICBS.

Every department o{ horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.

The Editor welcomes ■photo^raiphs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he uriU endeavour to return jwn-accepttd
contriimtians.

As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.

The Editor toill not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden iviU alone
be recognised as acceptance.

Offices : 20, Tavistock Street Covent Garden W.C.

NOTES OF THE WEEK.

Votes (or Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Insti-
tution.— We shall be glad if any readers who have
votes to spare will kindly send us their signed
voting papers. We are interested in a thoroughly
deserving case, and the votes will be utilised to
the best advantage.

Burning Garden Rubbish.— It is a good plan,
where it is possible, to keep a smouldering heap
going, particularly through the winter, so that
all tree or bush primings and other dead material
that is cut from the beds and borders, as well
as weeds when they are not too wet, may be burnt.
The ashes are excellent manure for most crops,
but should be kept in a heap until they are required,
for if scattered about they lose much of their
valuable properties.

Preparing to Plant Bush Fruits.— Those in-
tending to plant Gooseberries or Currants in early
spring should lose no time in preparing the groimd
for their reception. The ground should be bastard-
trenched and receive a good dressing of organic
manure, to be incorporated with the top spit.
If the soil is light, cow-manure will be most suit-
able ; but if the ground is heavy, stable manure
will be best. Add a little wood-ashes if available.
Lime can be applied and raked in after planting
in spring.

General Index to this Volume.— .\s the present
issue completes Vol. L.XXVII., we are presenting
a general index, together mth a title-page and
frontispiece suitable for binding the whole of the
numbers published during the present year. Next
week we shall publish our Special New Year
Number, which vrill be considerably enlarged
and contain many new and interesting features.
We take this opportunity of thanking those of
our readers who have sent us seasonable greetings,
which are heartily reciprocated.

Grass Orchards. — These are perhaps not so
much in evidence as they once were. Nothing,
however, can be said against the system if judiciously
carried out. One thing has been abundantly
proved, viz., that if the best results are to be
obtained, a circle of 6 feet to 8 feet in diameter
must be cultivated round each tree. Those,
therefore, who have hitherto allowed the grass
to grow right up to the stem of the tree will do.
well to scarify round it for the distance indicated
above, and then fork in some rotten manure and
bone-meal.

The Treatment of Early Bulbs. — Many varie-
ties of early Tulips, Narcissi and Hyacinths should
be introduced into heat for blooming early in the
year. Those that are pushing up their flowers
must be carefully handled to get the best results,
maintaining a lair amoimt of heat and moisture
where they are being forced, so as to get as good
a stem on them as possible, .\lthough not always
admired, the Duo van Thol varieties of Tulips

are useful during the Christmas season, particu-
larly as there will be a shortage of flowers during
the next two or three weeks. Owing to the Chry-
santhemums being much earlier than usual, all
other kinds of bloom will be in demand.

Streal( Disease of Sweet Peas. — The National

Sweet Pea Society, with the object of securing a
preventive and cure of the disease known as streak,
are offering a prize of ten guineas and the gold
medal of the society to the first person who can
prove to the satisfaction of the committee that
he or she has a cure. As arrangements are now
being made for testing preventives or remedies,
anyone who has discovered a cure should com-
municate at once with the secretary, Mr. H. D.
Tigwell, Greenford, Middlesex, who will be pleased
to furnish full particulars. Will any members
of the society whose Sweet Peas have been badly
attacked by streak, and who are prepared to test
remedies, please commmiicate vrith the secretary ?
Double - Flowered- Chinese Primulas. — The

readiness with ^vhic^l fairly double forms of the
Chinese Primula can be raised from seeds has led to
the almost total disappearance of the very double-
flowered kinds. The old double white, which used
to be grown by the houseful to supply Covent
Garden Market with flowers, is still occasionally
to be met with, but the varieties with blossoms
of aii exceedingly duplex character which were
raised by the late Mr. Gilbert when at Burghley
seem to have totally disappeared. They created
quite a furoreiii 1877 and 1878, when no fewer than
five of them were given first-class certificates by
the Royal Horticultural Society. The varieties
were Earl of Beaconsfield, Marchioness of Exeter,
Mrs. Barron, Princess, and White Lady. These
could only be propagated by cuttings or layers,
and consequently they realised good prices for
some time.

Funeral of the late Martin John Sutton. — The

funeral of the late Martin John Sutton took place
at Sonning Church, near Readmg, on the 17th
inst. The edifice was filled with members of the
family, relatives and friends, and a great many
visitors were at the graveside. Simultaneously a
memorial service was held at Greyfriars Church,
Reading, where many members of Messrs. Sutton
and Sons' staff attended. Among those present at
Somaing Church were Sir Bowen Jones, Dr. Voelcker,
Mr. Franklin Simmons, Mr. A. H. Matthews, the
Mayor of Reading, M. Philippe de Vilmorin, ^r.
N. N. Sherwood, Mr. John Collingridge, Mr. George
Gordon and Mr. F. W. Harvey. At the memorial
service at Reading the Deputy-Mayor and Corpora-
tion attended in their robes, others present being
Lord Moreton and Mr. McRow of the Royal Agri-
cultural Society, Mr. Powell of the Smithfield
Club, and Mr. J. Lonsley of the British Dairy
Farmers' .\ssociation. A great many wreaths
and other floral tributes were sent, including
one from the .\gricultural Seed Trade of the
United Kingdom.

642

THE GARDEN.

[December 27, tgl^.

CORRESPONDENCE.

{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)

Some Interesting Seedling Snowdrops. — Seed
lings from Galanthus cilicicus (the so-called-
Autumn-flowering Snowdrop), from seed sown in
1909, are now blooming here profusely for the first
time, but they did not commence to open until
December. The pollen used was that of Galanthus
Elwesii, but so far they do not seem to vary
from the seed parent in any visible respect, the
flowers, and especially the distinct foliage, taking
after G. cilicicus. A good many of the fiowers have
a small green blotch on the outer petals, and they
vary somewhat in height. — F.
Herbert Chapman, Rye.

Snow in the Garden. — The
sunmaer aspect and conditions of
the garden would in time become
decidedly monotonous if such con-
tinued indefinitely, and the winter
brings a welcome change and rest.
The view presented on a winter
morning is very impressive, the
branches being weighed down,
bowing, as it were, with reverence
for Nature's fiercest element — King
Winter. The old-fashioned winter
may be considered by some to be a
thing of the past, but a fall of snow,
when it comes, puts quite a new
series of pictures before lovers of
Nature. Snow scenes in the garden
are very beautiful, and though they
may not last long in this changeable
climate, they provide pictiu'es not
only for the memory, but for the
camera, by means of which they
can be recorded. The photograph 1
am sending will give some idea of
the charm of conifers when
partially clothed with a mantle of
white. — E. E. Carter, Romford.

Hints to Compilersof

Schedules. — Promoters of horti-
cultural exhibitions will now be
arranging their schedules. I have
often thought how much better it
would be if, instead of cups and
medals, useful articles were offered
for prizes. From my own experi-
ence of those responsible for the
necessary polishing, &c., they be-
come a useless annoyance, and are
often put away out of sight. As
for medals, they are neither
use nor ornament. For instance :
A provincial exhibitor takes a
collection to London at, often, great cost, and
possibly obtains a bronze medal, which seldom
afterwards will see the light of day. In place of
s»ch useless articles, why not a silver table-centre,
Rose-bowl, corner table, silver flower-vases, a tall
vase for specimen blooms, sugar-basin and cream-
jug, tea and coffee service, and salver, with inscrip-
tions ? Such articles would be a pleasure for
those responsible in the household instead of
being a nuisance. I have heard ladies remark
that flower show and other exhibition committees
should have the assistance of ladies in the selec-
tion of useful prizes ; then the household and
posterity would look upon deserved honours with
pleasure instead of the reverse. — A. C.

Gas Boilers for Greenhouse Heating. — Read-
ing the article on these in The Garden for Novem-
ber 29, page 600, reminded me of a garden in this
locality, which I was looking round in the summer,
where two small houses are so heated. The
gardener, who went. but three or four days weekly
to this particular place, told me the gas-heating
arrangement answered splendidly, and was easily
managed by his employer on the days he was not
there and in the evenings. I did not ask the
name of the boiler used, but it was connected
with the meter in the house and turned on and
off from outside the greenhouses, around which
were pipes of 3 inches diameter. In another large
garden in this district the conservatory used to
be wanned with a gas boiler, but that has since

A WINTER SCENE WHERE GARDEN AND WOODLAND MEET

been discarded for the usual method — firing.
From an economical standpoint coke and coal
are first ; but for cleanliness, easiness and prompt-
ness— especially when dealing with small structures
— gas wins. — C. T., Highgatc.

Which is the Guernsey Lily ?— I have read
Mr. Jacob's letter on page 6r9, issue December 13,
with interest, and after referring to the Botanical
Magazine, plate 294, agree with him that this
illustration represents the form which we now
know as rosea, and not the form usually sold
as sarniensis, which is inferior in size and much
more orange in colour. Some years ago Lord
Northbrook gave me some bulbs received from
South Africa, of which the larger produced N.

rosea, and the smaller what I have hitherto called
N. sarniensis. Both of them, like the cultivated
bulbs usually sold, were very shy in flowering
as compared %vith their hybrids, and also as com-
pared with N. Fothergilli and N. Meadowbanki,
which are the best of the old varieties for general
cultivation. All of these flower early in comparison
with the majority of the strain which I have been
raising for years, and which are also much more
floriferous than the imported bulbs. It is much
to be desired that some resident in South Africa
who knows the plants in their native country
would give us particulars of the extent of variation
which exists in Nature, and tell us something about
their habitat and life-history. From their behaviour
in cultivation I expect that most of them grow in
places where the rainfall is very
irregular and where frost does not
occur. — H. J. Elwes, Colesborne.
Mildew on Roses in Canada. —

In your issue of November 8 your
correspondent " E. M." writes of
a preparation called Serum that
he has tried with wonderful
results as a cure for mildew on
Roses. I should be very glad to
hear whether other readers of
your most useful publication have
given Serum a trial, and with
what results. Mildew is very
troublesome here — Victoria, B.C. —
and as my garden is near the sea
and exposed to our prevalent cold
winds, I have no doubt this
aggravates the disease. I have
tried spraying regularly with
potassium sulphide, as recom-
mended by the National Rose
Society, also with formaldehyde,
lysol, lime and sulphur, and some
other recipes, all with little or no
results. It seems curious that
Roses that are very liable to
mildew in England, in many cases
are not so liable to it here, and
vice versa; for instance, most Roses
of the " mult-scans " type, like
Crimson Rambler, do not suffer
from mildew to the same extent as
do the wichuraianas. All my
wichuraianas were completely
spoiled by mildew last summer,
while Crimson Rambler, Yellow
Rambler, Ards Pillar^ Flower of
Fairfield and Mme. Alfred Carri6re
were only slightly affected. Out of
123 different varieties of Roses of all
types in my garden, only eleven
showed no sign of mildew, viz.,
Blush Rambler (Cant), Aglaia,
Conrad F. Meyer, Jessie, Rayon d'Or, the Irish
singles Elegance, Beauty, Modesty, Harmony, and,
lastly, the Sweet Briars Lady Penzance and Meg
Merrilies. I should also like to know whether Serum
is any good as a preventive or cure for black
spot, which plague was introduced into my garden
last summer by planting some " treasures " —
Juliet, George Dickson, Mme. Charles Lutaud,
British Queen and Sunburst. These were imported
from France, and I apparently imported a fine crop
of black spot into the bargain, much to my
disgust, as I had had no sign of that trouble before.
I treated the plants with formaldehyde, with
no apparent result. — Chas. R. Serjeantson,
Room 617, Sayward Building, Victoria, B.C.

December 27, 1913-]

THE GARDEN.

643

Early Tomatoes in Canada. — It would be interest-
ing to Icnow if any reader of The Garden has grown
the early varieties of American Tomatoes in England
in the open. These, while rather coarse and small,
are verj- hardy and early, and are grown in large
quantities in Eastern Canada for early tise. There
are several varieties. Earliana is the first to ripen, I
and Chalk's Early Jewel comes about two weeks i
after. The seed is often sown outside early in
Mav and the seedlings transplanted in the fields.
Some years ago, near Montreal, I tried several
of the early English varieties, and although they
produced large fruit of better shape, they were not
so early as the American varieties. In British
Columbia, where the climate is about the same as in
England, Earliana ripens in the open and produces
good crops. I should be pleased to send seed to
anyone who would like to try them this season. —
T. Sheward, Hillbank. Vancouver Island, British
Columbia, Canada.

Acantholimon venuslnm.— To the majority
there is more than a modicum of truth in Mr.
Malby's statement on page 622 that this precious
midsummer-flowering alpine is difficult to propa-
gate, though this may be done in a variety of ways.
Further, your correspondent adds that " it is said
to come well from cuttings when the necessary'
skill has been attained." And this is true. As
Mr. Malby does not apparently furnish the
" necessary skill," may I be permitted to
supplement his remarks ? In the first place,
for all practical purposes, it is almost im-
possible to increase this species by division, 1
its root system being generally opposed to I
it. and the plants of our acquaintance insuffi-
ciently large to admit of it being successfully
done. Layering might be similarly dismissed ;
hence the cultivator is left with three methods
of propagation at his disposal — cuttings, root-
cuttings and seeds- — all of which are good. Only
one type of cutting, however, is of the least service,
\-iz., that with a heel attached and one of com-
parative youthfulness. Cuttings such as this
inserted in June or July give little trouble if the
recently-formed shoots are secured. Almost pure
sand is the best medium ; a cold frame the best
place. The root-cutting system is a far more
reliable way to the alpine-grower of limited ex-
perience, though I do not know why Mr. Malby
emploved roots " 10 inches long." In that length
there would be ten cuttings if the root was of any
size. Root-cuttings may be inserted in Januarj'
and February-, and are best in a greenhouse tempera-
ture or very gentle bottom-heat. The great
obstacle in the way of root propagation is that of
plants large enough to supply them, while there is
a certain amotmt of risk to the plant in being dis-
turbed and mutilated at the time named. Seeds,
when procurable, present no difficulty whatever ; the
difficulty is in getting supplies, or at least any
quantity, imless pollination is resorted to. This
is, however, well worth while, seeing the value
of the subject. Curiously enough, the commoner
A. glumaceum will not only submit readily to
division, but will root more freely from cuttings.
Nodal cuttings I have foimd, however, are not
of the least use. — -E. H. Jenkins.

FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
January 13, 1914. — Royal Horticultural Society's
I ' Exhibition and Meeting at Vincent Square, West-
I minster.

January 19. — National Chrysanthemum Society's
Executive Committee Meeting.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

THE HERBACEOUS SPIR.EAS.

WHILE the genus Spiraea is of
considerable extent, the her-
baceous species constitute but
a comparatively small propor-
tion of it. Those that do,
however, possess an import-
ance of their own, chiefly because of high decorative
value for the most part, and particularly so when
intelligently employed in water-side gardening.
It is here, indeed, as also in the cool and rich
soils of the garden, that the plants grow most
luxuriantly, vielding of the abundance of their
fleecy panicles in no ungenerous or uncertain way,
and, provided space is permitted them, of that
fine form which is among their greater assets.
Hence to plant them well the gardener should
know them well, know something at least of the
development of a ten year old specimen in order
that it may develop unhindered, unchecked by
other plants whose habit of growth and stature
may be of a like character. In such circumstances
the noblest of these Meadow-sweets will embellish
their surroundings, adding dignity and not a little
importance to the spot they are intended to orna-
ment. Too frequently, I think, the ultimate
development of a plant is either unknown or
insufficiently considered by the gardener, the
net result a cramped or huddled mass incapable
of displaying the plant at its best. One has fre-
quently seen the Japanese Anemone, a plant
endowed with rare beauty and fine form, so treated,
crowded in by other subjects in such a way that
one-half of the value of the picture is lost. So
unique a subject is well worth considering apart,
employing it rather in isolated groups or affording
it a flanking position where it could be seen to
advantage. When employed as a border plant,
however, the great spread of its well-cut leaves
is worthy of thought, and, given this, the right
place or environment will follow in due course.
These remarks are equally true of the bolder
Spiraeas, which can hardly be given a fair chance
in an ordinary herbaceous border. By water-side
or streamlet, or the approaches to woodland scenes,
where the soil is cool and deep, the plants may be
made much of, and in all such they may be grouped
with a free hand.

CiJturally, the chief item meriting attention is
that once well planted they shouldTremain for
several years midisttirbed ; hence a deep bed of
well-enriched soil should be at their command.
Such a bed may be prepared in all cases, where
possible, to a depth of 3 feet, to the lasting benefit
of the plants. Those having more or less woody
rootstocks, as in the case of the Goat's-beard
Spiraea (S. Aruncus), appear to resent root distmb-
ance and division to a much greater extent than
such as S. venusta or S. camtschatica. The first-
named species is somewhat slow in establishing
itself, and, if divided at the same time, the belittling
effects of the dual operation will be seen for at least
three years, even with the most generous treat-
ment. Where division of the roots is contemplated,
early autunui will be found a good time — probably
the best — though the work may be done at other
times dining the dormant period of the plants.
The dwarfer border sorts, e.g., Filipendula and
palmata, may also be divided in spring, with good
results. Apart from these things, the plants are
of the easiest culture, and are also perfectly hardy.
Those named here are the most important.

Spiraea Aruncus (Goat's-beard Spiraa). — In its
fullest vigour this fine plant may reach to 5 feet
high and fiUly as much through ; hence it needs
catering for on generous lines. It is a plant of
the highest ornament, beautiful in the disposition
of its tripinnate leaves, and most effective in the
gracefully-droopmg plumes of its creamy white
flowers, which appear in summer-time. Well-
marked varieties are Kneiffi, with very finely-cut
leaves, and plumosa, whose foam-like inflorescences
render it both valuable and distinct. The typical
species, which has been known to cultivators for
nearly three centuries, had a wide distribution in
Europe, Asia and America. A lover of rich soils
and moisture.

S. astilboides. — A species of miusual merit
and excellence, one, indeed, that, like the Goat's-
beard Spiraea, might be considered first-class for
water-side planting. In the branched feathers-
panicles of its flowers it is quite distinct, somewhat
dwarfer and perhaps even more graceful than the
last named. The flowers are creamy white.
Japan. A form known as floribimda is of more
compact growth, and much in demand for pot
culture.

S. camtschatica. — A giant in its way, attaining,
on occasion, 8 feet or 10 feet in height. Though
of a lesser leaf spread than either of the above
named, the plant is in some respects one of the
most remarkable, its huge palmate leaves and
spreading, fleecy inflorescences crowning the tall
stems rendering it quite conspicuous. As S.
gigantea this fine plant has gained some notoriety..
S. rosea elegans is perhaps one of the most showy
of its varieties, but there are others intermediate
in colour between this and the original. All are of
the same habit and highly ornamental.

S. digitata. — A native of Eastern Siberia,
usually in moist meadows and sub-alpine regions.
The plant has a prostrate tuft of piimate leaves,
from which the flower-stems issue to a height of
4 feet or so. The flowers are white or pink tinted.
S. d. nana is virtually an alpine of 6 inches or
9 inches high. It is a pretty and quite rare form,
wiih pmky white flower clusters.

S. Filipendula (Dropwort). — ^This dwarf-growing
British species is characterised by much dwarfness
and by its deep green, interruptedly pinnate,
glabrous leaves, forming a spreading, prostrate
tuft close upon the groimd. The type is not
much grown, its double-flowered form, S. F. flore
pleno, being much esteemed as a border plant.
It is less than 2 feet in height. Flowers white,
with pink buds in loose, spreading panicles. The
species is quite distmct in its tuberous roots.
Easily increased by division in spring. Quite at
home in the ordinary border.

S. lobata (Queen of the Praurie). — One of the
gems among border kinds, and a plant of the
easiest culture in rich soils, in which it will attain
fully 4 feet in height. The flowers are of rosy
carmine colour, and are arranged in terminal
panicles. With moisture the plant is of taller
growth, and is welcome anywhere in the garden
by reason of its colour. S. I. magnifica has deeper-
coloured flowers. Most frequently foimd in
catalogues as S. venusta. Native of North
America. EasUy increased by division.

S. palmata. — in every sense a first-class plant,
at once indispensable to pot cultivation, to cool
and moist border sods, or near the water-side,
where it is capable of brilUant efiects by reason
of the richness and rarity of its broad, corymbose
panicles of rosy crimson flowers. Distinct in

344

THE GARDEN.

[December 27, 1913.

1. .MisILtlOi, ON APPLE THREE YEARS

AFTER SOWING THE SEED.

habit and with some refinement, it is a peer among
its fellows. A plant of the highest value to the
hardy plant gardener. It revels in moisture and
rich soils, and, given these, in addition to their
distant shade at midday, its flowers last a long
time in perfection. I know of no herbaceous
subject capable of affording such a mass of lovely
colour as this, none more worthy the best en-
deavours of the gardener. All the varieties I
have seen, judged from the standpoint of their
picture-making effects in the garden, are second-
rate by comparison. They are alba, white ;
elegans and maxima, both having pink flowers.
In response to a generous treatment, the plant
may reach nearly four feet high, though the half
of this is most usual. Native of Japan. Easily
increased by division at any time when dormant.

S. Ulmaria. — This common British Meadow-
sweet, the inhabitant of marshy places and wet
ditches in many parts of the country, is rarely
cultivated. In all its forms it is worthy of a place
in the wild garden, if not quite good enough for
the border now that the choice of subjects is
so great. E. H. Jenki.ms.

SOME

PECULIARITIES
MISTLETOE.

OF

A S everyone knows, the Mistletoe is a

I\ parasite living upon various trees.

/ % It is most often seen growing upon

/ % the Apple, but it is also met with

* *■ on the Hawthorn, Willow, Poplar,

Lime, Maple, Mountain Ash, and

even on Cedar of Lebanon and Larch. There is a

popular impression that the Mistletoe has a great

liking for the Oak, while, as a matter of fact, the

two are seldom found together. The rare occurre nee

of Mistletoe growing upon Oak was held sacred

by the Druids and regarded as a Divine gift. Dr.

Biill, in a paper in the " Journal of Botany,"

only mentions seven authentic instances of the

growth of Mistletoe on the Oak in this country. Since
then, however, other instances have been recorded.

The very slow growth made by the Mistletoe
plant in the first few years of its existence has
been a cause of an.xiety to those who have fondly
hoped to grow large bunches of Mistletoe in their
gardens in a short space of time. Some idea of
its rate of progress may be obtained from Fig. i,
showing what in reality is a promising young
Mistletoe plant three years from the time of sowing
the seed. The two large clusters of Mistletoe
seen in Fig. 2 appear to be older than the
Whitethorn which carries them. Such a result
has been obtained by grafting the Mistletoe upon
its youthful host. This is accomplished by remov-
ing 'the Mistletoe with a portion of the tree on
which it is growing and grafting upon another tree.

Unquestionably, the most frequent host plant
of the Mistletoe is !he Apple, and it is notorious

2. LARGE BUNCHES OF MISTLETOE

GRAFTED ON WHITETHORN.

that some old orchards, notably in Herefordshire,
carry heavier crops of Mistletoe than of .Apples.
\ most singular thing concerning Mistletoe is that
although it occurs on a wide range of trees and is
so very common on the Apple, yet it is never
foimd on the Pear. Some attempts to grow
Mistletoe on Pear trees were made last year in
Messrs. James Veitch and Sons' nursery at Langley
by Mr. Allgrove, and the results were so remarkable
that the subject has since been brought before
the scientific committee of the Royal Horticultural
Society. Mistletoe seed was sown on a number
of Pear trees, and in many instances germination
took place. In no case, however, did the Mistletoe
get beyond the stage of germination, and no leaves
were developed. The effect upon the Pear was
very noticeable (see Fig. 3), for the Mistletoe, in
its attempt to establish itself, killed all the tissue
of the tree stem just within the bark, completely
encircling the stem. All growth was killed above the
point where the .Mistletoe had germinated. C. Q.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SEASONABLE NOTES ON VEGE-
TABLES.

Winter Spinach. — In some soils Spinach a
this season has a common knack of dying when
the plants are a few inches high, owing, no doubt,
mainly to the presence of some grub or insect
pest attacking the roots. As a preventive sprinkle
soot and wood-ashes freely over the plants and
betweenTthe rows. During a spell of dry weather
well stir the surface soil, about the plants especially ;
this will act as a deterrent to insect pests as well as
a stimulant to growth.

Broccoli growing in heavy soil especially should
have careful attention in the preservation of
prematurely-formed heads by heeling them over
to the north, thus giving double leafage protection
to the forming heads. It is too early to heel over
the main batch, those just now forming heads.
From the side to which the plants are to lean
dig out one spit of soil ; then gradually heel over
the plants by digging under the roots on the
opposite side, thoroughly covering the stems with
soil.

Mint. — This is one of the most important
herb crops in the garden, and, all too often but
meagrely produced, not succeeding as well as it
should. The growth is usually too weakly to give
the best results in the spring, when a quantity
is required. Now is the time to endeavour to
remedy such a detect and assist the next season's
crop. If the roots have not occupied the same
site more than three years, there is no need to
replant the bed, although, where a quantity of
green Mint is required, it is a good plan to make
a small annual plantation in the spring. More suit-
able roots are then available for lifting for forcing
early in the year. Cut ofl the current season's

3. MISTLETOE FAILS TO GROW ON PEAR

AND KILLS THE UPPER PART OF
ITS HOST IN THE ATTEMPT.

DeceiMber 27, 1913.]

THE GARDEN.

645

growth close to the ground, clearing away all
weeds, and lightly fork over the surface. If the
soil is heavy in character, give a dressing of half-
decayed leaves, vegetable refuse and wood-ashes.
This, with the aid of frost and weather influence,
will gradually work down among the roots and
assist the next season's growth, inducing the
production of stout, succulent stems and larger
leaves. In the case of light soil, half-decayed
manure as a mulch will render equal service.

Asparagus. — Remove the whole of the tops
to within 2 inches of the soil and clear away all
weeds. If the soil is heavy in character, lightly
fork it over during dry weather and
apply a compost, 2 inches thick, 01
half-decayed horse-manure, leaves,
vegetable refuse and wood-ashes.
Such a mixture is much superior to
the all too free use of heavy green
manure, which is a common plan,
to be followed with a coating of
soil dug from the alleys between
the beds. The latter especially is
neither desirable nor necessary, as
such a thick covering of unsuitable
material is liable to' make the roots
too wet and cold during the winter
months, especially if the soil has
not been deeply trenched or
drained. In the case of light,
well - drained soil, naturally or
otherwise, a thicker coating of half-
decayed manure can be used with
advantage.

Potatoes. — Those stored in heaps
in sheds, cellars or buildings need
occasional attention, especially in
removing diseased tubers. Neglect
of this may mean serious loss, espe-
cially this season, when so many
plots had the haulm affected by
disease, but which had not developed
it seriously in the tubers. In such
a case the disease in the tubers is
not so evident at lifting-time, but
shows later on. Even if there are
no diseased tubers, the turning over
of the heap will assist the preser-
vation of the tubers so much better
than when allowed to ferment in a
heap, which all too often happens
when lifting is done during showery
weather.

Manuring Ground. — During
frosty weather, when the ground
is hard, all manure that is required
should be wheeled into position.
It is a mistake to make deep ruts in
soil when it is wet, as it takes
nearly the whole of the summer
to recover.

Spring Cabbages. — Whenever the soil is suffi-
ciently dry, these will derive considerable benefit
from hoeing or otherwise stirring the soil about
them. This year slugs have bjen troublesome,
eating large holes in the leaves and thereby weaken-
ing the plants. A dusting of soot, or soot and lime
mixed, around each will act as a deterrent, and
will provide the Cabbages with som^ food in a
mild form.

Parsley. — -In some soils, especially in the
Northern Counties, a supply of fresh green Parsley
is difficult to maintain throughout the winter.
It is wise to make up a frame on a spent hot-bed,
for example, filling it to within 6 inches of the

glass with a compost of light material, adding
soot and wood-ashes freely. Lift plants from the
spring sowing with a good ball of earth attached
and transfer them to the frame 6 inches apart,
thus giving abundance of air space. Keep the
soil well stirred and remove the lights daily
during fine weather, covering them with some
protecting material during periods of frost. Fre-
quently grubs attack the roots in some soils, causing
the plants to die oft suddenly. A thorough soaking
with water to which is added petroleum at the rats
of a wineglassful to three gallons of water will
usually check the insect pests.

THE GREENHOUSE.

A

ERICA HVEMALIS, ONE OF THE MOST USEFUL OF THE WINTER
FLOWERING GREENHOUSE HEATHS.

GREENHOUSE HEATHS IN WINTER.

VERY important matter in connection
with the successful culture of green-
house Heaths at this season of the
year is to maintam a reasonable
circulation of air, as, should the atmo-
sphere become stagnant and over-
charged with moisture, mildew is very apt to set
in. Once it obtains a hold, it is likely to cause a
good deal of trouble, though it may be combated
by dusting the plants with sulphur
and increasing the supply of air.
Properly attended to, however, this
last will keep mildew entirely at
bay.

Watering. — The watering of
Heaths at all seasons is a very im-
portant matter, but in winter even
greater care than usual is necessary.
The soil in which Heaths are potted
(peat and sand) dries very quickly
once it has passed what may be
termed the medium stage, but more
particularly in the case of plants
that are stood near the hot-water
pipes. In any case, when a plant
is watered, it should be thoroughly
done, otherwise the soil may be
moist at the top, and the bottom e\-
ceedingly dr\'. When this happens,
the delicate, hair-like fibres are sure
to suffer, and the [plant quickly
falls into ill-health. The abo>'e
remarks apply, of course, with equal
force to spring, summer or winter
flowering varieties ; but these last
being at the present time most in
the limelight, I will confine my
remarks to them.

Of winter Heaths, Erica hyemalis
has long occupied a prominent
position, and to-day it is as popular
as ever. It is largely grown in a
few market establishments, and from
these \videly distributed, either by
means of autumn sales or orders
later on. The specimens of this
Heath that are to be met with in
the florists' shops of London are
models of successful culture, and
such a standard could only be ,
reached by those who make a
speciality of such plants, with houses
specially adapted for their accom-
modation. They are practically all
grown in pots 5 inches to 6 inches in
diameter. A well-flowered specimen,

such as is shown in the accompany-
Cauliila'A^ers. — Tiiose not sufficiently advanced ing illu;tration, can be purchased at a very
for cutting should be lifted and laid in cold cheap rate.

frames or at the foot of a south wall, where The early history of E. hyemalis is obscure,
they will continue to grow and mature their i but it is commonly regarded as of garden origin,
heads, which will be quite useful during the At all events, it has been an exceedingly popular
winter months. Heath for m my years. The flowers in colour are

Tomatoes. — Young plants should be kept quite ' rose and white. About thirty years ago a pure
close to the glass in a buoyant atmosphere to white form (alba) came prominently forward,
prevent their being drawn up weakly, or they and it is now largely grown. There is also a variety,
will be of little service for the supply of winter . superba, whose blossoms arc of a richer colour than
and early spring fruit. White fly is at times , those of the type.

troublesome. On the first sign of this pest carefuliy I E. gracilis, now in flower, is, as a rule, at its best

fumigate the plants. E. Molymeux. i in the autuma and first half of winter. It is of a

Swanmore Park, Bishop's Walthim, Hants. dense, twiggy grow;h, and bears its small rosy

646

THE GARDEN.

[December 2'], 1913.

purple blossoms in great profusion. There are
some well-marked varieties of this, namely, rosea,
m which the purple shade is to a great extent
eliminated, the flowers being an almost clear
rose tint ; nivalis, under which name is included
the best white, though in tone of colour there is
a certain amomit of variation ; and vemalis,
which does not bloom till the New Year, and is
altogether of stiffer and more bunched growth
than the others. E. gracilis readily lends itself
to growing in those miniature pots which are now
so much in vogue.

Another Heath whose blossoms are home in
the depth of winter is E. melanthera, which in its
cultural requirements is one of the most accommo-
dating of all Heaths. The flowers of this, which
are borne in the greatest profusion, are mauve,
with dark-coloured anthers. Though it can be
flowered in 5-inch pots, larger examples are vcr^-

wilmoreana, rose and pink. The propagation
of these Heaths and their culture during the
earlier stages are very exacting, unless one has
everything to hand for the purpose. Such being
the case, it is, as a rule, more satisfactory to
purchase a few examples just as the buds are
developed.

After Flowering.— If, after the flowers are
over, there is a desire to keep them for another
season, the plants should be cut back hard. Then
they will soon commence to push out new shoots,
and as soon as these are about half an inch in length
the plants may be repotted, using a pot a size
larger than that in which they have been in before.
Sandy peat forms the nlost suitable compost.
It must be rammed down very firmly. Effective
drainage, too, of course, is most essential. Kept
in the greenhouse till gro%vth is completed, these
Heaths during the latter part of the summer may

THE GIBRALTAR CANDYTUFT (IBERIS GIBRALTARICA) FLOWERING IN DECEMBER.

useful for decorative purposes. If potted on so
as to obtain good-sized bushes, this Heath does
not need to be cut back as hard after flowermg
as most of them do. K pleasing way of growing
E. melanthera is to take the young plant in hand
early and tie it to an upright stick. The leading
shoot must be kept secured in position, when, with
a little assistance in the way of pinching, the
plant will assume the shape of a narrow pyramid,
so different from its usual habit.

Other pretty winter-flowering Heaths are E.
caffra, a dwarf, bushy-growing little plant with
white flowers ; and E. colorans, of upright growth,
whose long-tubed, white flowers before expan-
sion have a reddish tinge on the outside. Others
that come in as succession to those above named,
and the earliest of which may be had in bloom
before winter has left us, are candidissima, white ;
hybrida, bright red ; persoluta alba, white ; p.
rubra, reddish ; spenceriana, purplish lilac ; ar.d

be stood out of doors in order to ripen the wood
and ensure the formation of flower-buds. H. P.

ROCK AND WATER GARDEN.

THE DESIGNING, CONSTRUCTION
AND PLANTING OF ROCK GARDENS.

[CinuiuJed from pa'^e oj.)..)
Soils and Planting. — The question of soil can
be dismissed very briefly, as it is rather a matter
of the individual liking of the plant than a question
of construction. For perhaps 50 per cent, or
60 per cent, of the plants used, fibrous loam, a little
leaf-soil or peat (or both) and some good sharp
sand are quite satisfactory. For the remainder it is
merely a matter of varying the quantity of one
or the other of the above constituents, and. in some
cases, adding a proportion of limestone chippings.
.\ny definite formula, except for particular subjects.

would be misleading. In the matter of planting,
more can be said with advantage. An intimate
knowledge of the plants used is the only sure guide.
It is in the misptacing of various plants used that
so many rock gardens fail. There are plants
for sunny aspects, and those that prefer shade, some
that revel in moisture, others that seem perfectly
happy on the driest ledge. Nor is the appearance
of the plant a safe guide to its habit. Take, for
instance, Ramondia pyrenaica. To look at it anyone
ignorant of its preferences would conclude that it
would thrive almost anywhere, and for choice
prefer an open sunny place with great depth of soil.
As a matter of fact, some of the best plants I have
seen were growing in vertical interstices between the
cool north sides of some massive boulders.

So many books giving the experience of others
are published now that there is not much excuse
for many of the glaring errors that are made in
this respect. The grouping of plants is a matter
that cannot be learnt from books, however, but
it is to this that many of the individual charms
of the rock garden are due. Drifts and cascades
of flower and foliage, in appearance tumbling
from ledge to ledge, can be skilfully arranged,
without such arrangements being obvious. A
sunny slope planted with Viola gracilis in one
large mass is very attractive, but if smaller and
gradually diminishing plantings are made on the
lower ledges to give the appearance of having
seeded itself in all directions, the effect is much
enhanced ; and then, if the planting in its im-
mediate vicinity is of a grey-leaved, yellow-flowered
plant like an Alyssum, the combination becomes
perfect. There are hundreds of studies that can
be effected in this way without the introduction
of one note of artificiality. Of course, to the man
who revels in the microscopic detail of a plant
because it is new or rare rather than beautiful,
such schemes will not appeal. He will consider
that a plant loses its individuality and its merit ■
as an item in his collection if it shares the effect
it produces with another plant. It is not for the
collector I write, however. I have, indeed, little
sympathy with the man who collects plants in the
same spirit as the philatelist collects postage stamps.
Colchester. George Dillistone.

THE GIBRALTAR CANDYTUFT.

(IbERIS GIBRALTARICA.)

CoNSTAXT reference has been made in these pages
to autunm-flowering plants for the rock garden,
but in Iberis gibraltarica we have a subject worthy
of special mention, since it flowers in the dead of
winter. The plants overhanging rocks shown in
the accompanying illustration commenced to
flower in the early days of December. They were
on December 18 in full bloom, and will continue
to flower for some months to come. Each year
this subject may be depended upon to flower at
Christmas. There are two varieties, pink and
white, and so freely are the heads of flowers borne
that when seen from a distance the white forni
resembles little drifts of snow in the landscape.
It is a suitable subject for a dry wall, providing
it is given a fairly good rooting medium, when
it will thrive in' association with such subjects
as Cotton Lavender, and Cerastium tomen-
tosum. The sunny side of the rock garden
suits it best, and it should be planted in a favoured
niche, so that it may overhang the rockwork.
It is both evergreen and hardy, and when
once established will grow for years if not
disturbed. Propagation is effected by cuttings,
and it also produces seed.

December 27, 1913.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

TREES

M

THE GARDEN.

out and carefully removing the old growths without
damaging the young stems, the beautiful powder
or bloom on which is easily disfigured.

The recognised methods of cultivation are
suitable for deciduous trees and shrubs grown
for their attractive bark in winter. In some
instances, however, it is quite worth while supple-
menting the usual tillage operations with a little
extra attention. Much thicker and longer growths,
for instance, are made by the Brambles, Willows and
Comus when the ground is deeply dug and freely
manured previous to planting and an occasional
mulch of old, well-decayed manure applied. There

647

AND SHRUBS WITH ORNA-
MENTAL BARK.

rCH may be done, particularly when

the pleasure grounds and shrubbery

borders are fairly extensive, to make

the whole place more attractive

and interesting in winter by giving

a little attention at planting-
time to trees and shrubs of a deciduous nature
which have brightly-coloured bark. There is
additional justification for plant-
ing most of those named later in
ths article, as most, if not all,
of them are attractive in summer,
either on account of their graceful
habit— the Silver Birch (Betula
alba), for instance — or the highly-
coloured foliage, a good instance "■
of which we have in Comus alba
Spaethii.

A considerable list could be given
of the numerous deciduous tree?
and shrubs with attractive trunks,
branches or twigs. The intention
here, however, is to limit the list
to a comparatively few of the
best which stand out prominently
from the remainder and are par-
ticularly adapted for the purpose
in view. These will be found
V aluable ahke for both small and
large gardens, for they may be
planted as single specimens, small
groups, or massed, where space per-
mits, in prominent situations. The
choice of suitable positions for
planting the respective subjects has
much to do with the ultimate
success or failure of the project,
more particularly in pubUc parks
and large private pleasure grounds.
For instance, to show to the best
advantage the undoubted beauty
and attractive character of the
White-stemmed Bramble (Rubus
biflorus), it is desirable to have
evergreens in the background,
though not necessarily quite close
to the Brambles, .\gain, masses
of the Cardinal Willow are very
nice in the shrubbery border, but
they are far more attractive and
thrive better by the water-side,
even if it is only a ditch with
water at some periods of the year,
though, of course, if no water is
available, this is impossible.

In numerous instances the best-
coloured bark is that on the young
shoots of the recent summer's
growth. Such being the case, the

aim of the cultivator should be, by pruning and is another side to the question, and that is, with
other means, to induce the production of vigorous few exceptions, among the shrubs the best results
young growths. For instance, the SaUx or Willows, are obtained with yoimg plants, so that after a few
when grown particularly for the winter beauty of the years of hard, pruning the Willows and Brambles
stems, should have the young shoots made the pre- should be grubbed out and replaced with young
vious summer cut hard back in spring to within one stock,
or two eyes of the old wood, which in practice usually ' Among trees, the most noteworthy with con

well Imown, the most noteworthy \arieties being
Betula alba, B. Ermannii and B. ulmifolia ; B.
papyxifera, with brown bark ; and B. nigra, which
has black peeling bark. Fraxinus Excelsior aurea
receives its common name of the Golden-stemmed
Ash from the colour of the bark.

It is interesting to note that three genera —
Comus, Rubus and Salix — are especially rich in
shrubs with attractive stems in winter. In the
Comus or Dogwood family we have red, yellow
and green twigged shrubs. C. alba and the varie-
ties Spzethii and sibirica have red bark, C. sanguinea
viridissima green bark, and C. stolonifera flavuramea
yellow bark. The stems of some
of the Bramble'.ffamily are the
most conspicuous among all shrubs,
several of them looking as if the
whitewash brush had been liberally
used on the stems. This con-
spicuous character has led to Rubus
biflorus being popularly termed the
Whitewash Bramble. Almost or
quite as good as this species — some
growers say they surpass it — are
the newer Chinese species R.
giraldiauus, R. Veitchii, R. thibet-
anus, R. lasiostylus and the variety
R. biflorus quinqueflorus. The
showiest of the Willows are Salix
alba var. cardinalis — the Cardinal
Willow, with red bark ; the Golden-
stemmed Willow, S. alba var.
vitelliua : and S. daphnoides, rath
I conspicuous bluish white bloom
>r powder on the stems. There are
several other Willows with coloured
stems which might be used if space
permits. Berberis virescens has red
items, while B. dictyophylla is also
ittractive in winter. The green
stems of some of the Cytisuses,
Spartiums and Genistas may also
receive consideration. A. O.

ROSE GARDEN.

IN

SILVER

BIRCHES IN" THE WOODLAND. SHOWING THEIR
BE.\UTY WITH A B.\CKGROUND OF CONIFERS.

A HAMPSHIRE
GARDEN.

Some of the Xewer Decorative

RosES.

{Continued from page 632.)

Mrs. Frederick W. Vanderbilt

iS. McGredy and Son, 1913). — My
choice of all the Lyons-raised seed-
lings of this, or, for that matter,
of any other raisers. The growth /
is further away from the t\-pe,
and is vigorous, free and branch-
ing, and not stiff. The flower
is very fragrant, and although
the plant is not mildew-proof,
it is not particularly or badly
addicted to mildew. The colour I have left till
the last, because it is very diflicult to accurately
describe. One turns to the National Rose Society's
official catalogue — " coppery yellow." That would
seem to point to a predominance of yellow. The
raiser has, however, a different idea. He calls

WINTER

■ it " deep orange red, shaded bronze apricot red,"
means down to near the ground. The treatment spicuously-coloured stems or trunks are .\cer j pointing to a predominance of red. To attempt to
of the Rubus or Brambles is rather different, pennsylvanicum (syn. striatum) and the variety [ describe the colours in two words is futile ; it
In this case the pruning is best done in autumn erythrocladum ; the Chinese Maple, Acer Davidii ; j simply cannot be done. I think all the various
as soon as the leaves fall. It consists in cutting the Birches, the white bark of which is fairly colours named are there, but not in the order of

648

THE GARDEN.

[December 27, 1913.

beautiful. As a matter of fact, it is almost a
single, and a few yoimg flowers in this stage are
strikingly beautiful as cut blooms. It is not an
idea] bedding Rose, owing to its habit of growth,
which is tall and whippy ; but it is a most inter-
esting Rose to grow, and is sweetly scented.
Southampton. Herbert E. Molyneu.v.

{To be continued.)

NEW AND RARE PLANTS.

FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE.

Cattleya percivaliana alba Lady Holford.—

white,

their relative importance. For example, a yellowish
copper is nearer the mark than a coppery yellow.
In the same way, if the raiser had said a reddish
orange, shaded bronze red apricot, I am inclined
to think he would have been much nearer the
actual colour. Taking out the dominant colours,
we now get copper, orange and apricot. They
are all there, and at respective stages each is the
principal colour in the flower — copper in the bud,
orange in the half-open flower, and apricot in the
fully-expanded bloom, with all the half shades
in between. I do not think there is any red in
the flower except such as forms a constituent of
the copper. The advent of Pernet-Ducher's

strain has made a vast difference to the colour i An exquisitely beautiful flower of purest
of our garden Roses ; but it has,
unfortunately, introduced several
elements which are by no means
to be desired. An inexplicable
dying back of seemingly healthy
wood, a bad habit of growth, and
a marked hereditary tendency to
black spot are on the other side
of the picture. These will all have
to be bred out before we can look
for a good bedding Rose in this
section, and the Rose under notice
has progressed as far in that direc-
tion as any that I have come
across.

Mrs. George Preston (Alex.
Dickson and Sons, 1910). — One of
the new Roses that by reason of
its colour perhaps has been some-
what overlooked. I cannot account
for it in any other way. I re-
member once hearing one of the
oldest and most respected of our
Rose' nurserymen saying, "We
don't want any more pink Roses.
I won't look at a pink Rose." I
cannot understand that point of
view. To be logical, it must mean
either that pink is a bad colour or
that pink Roses have reached per-
fection and cannot therefore be
improved upon. Now, neither of
these propositions is true. Perhaps
what was meant was that pink as
a colour was out of fashion. Be
all that as it may, I would welcome
any Rose if it was better than a
Rose already in commerce (which
it resembled), be the colour what
it might. To get back to Mrs.
George Preston, this is a warm
silvery pink. The flowers are of
good size and substance, freely
produced, sweetly scented and par-
ticularly good in autumn.

Mrs. Gordon Sloane (.\lex. Dickson and Sons,
1912).^! think this is going to be a good decorative
Rose. I have only one plant of it, and therefore
one has to speak a little charingly. The colour is
distinct and good, coppery pink and flesh, especially
in the early flowers. It is a good grower, of that
free-branching habit that is so essential to a free-
flowering Rose ; strongly perfumed.

Mrs. Joseph H. Welch (S. McGredy and Son,
1911). — Those who only know this Rose from the
specimens seen in the exhibition boxes at shows
can have but very little idea of it. The bud or
half-open flowerr— it is very often nothing more
than the former that is exhibited — is very fine,
but a yoimg flower "fully" open is much more

and of a free, easily-expanding character. The
flowers are moderately large and sweetly scented.
These were exhibited by Messrs. W. Wells, Limited
Merstham.
Cypripedium nitens leeanum var. smarag-

dinum (C. leeanum giganteura x C. Sallieri
hyeanum).— Sepals, petals and lip uniform greenish
yellow ; dorsal sepal of greener tint, obscurely
mottled and heavily tipped with white. From
F. T. Hanbury, E^q., East Grinstead.

Odontoglossum Cleopatra RoseDeld Variety.—

Sepals and petals nch cinnamon brown, faintly
bordered yellow and tipped with white. Lip
crimson, with .yellow crest, reticulated and
heavily tipped with white. From de Barri
Crawshay, Esq., Sevenoaks.

Odontioda Langowoyi (O. Uro-

Skinneri x Miltonia schroderiana).
— Sepals and petals acutely pointed,
crimson, green tipped. Lip ruby
red, broadly tipped with white.
From Messrs. Charlesworth and Co.,
Hayward's Heath.

Cypripedium bourtonense (C.

insigne Harefield Hall x C. Blanche
Moore). — A flower of giant pro-
portions. Sepals and petals
greenish brown, with pouch of
the same colour. Dorsal sepal
4 inches across, greenish, copiously
blotched brown and heavily bor-
dered with white. From G. F.
Moore, Esq., Bourton - on - the -
Water.

The foregoing were shown at
the committee meeting of the
Royal Horticultural Society on
December 16.

THE TANGIERIAN IRIS. FLOWERS BLUE WITH A BRIGHT GOLDEN
BLOTCH ON THE FALLS.

petals slightly waved at the margin. The heavily-
crested lip displayed a centre of richest orange,
delicately feathered with white, the richer
colouring extending well into the tube. From
Lieutenant-Colonel Sir George Holford, K.C.V.O.,
Westonbirt.

AWARDS OF MERIT.

Chrysanthemum Bertha Lachaux. — A very

useful and beautiful late-flowering decorative
variety of deep pink colouring. The variety is
of the decorative class, the florets spreading or
shglitly reflexing.

Carnation Philadelphia. — ^This is one of the
cerise pink shades, somewhat deeper than Lawson,

THE TANGIERIAN IRIS.

(Iris tin'gita.va.)

This lovely Iris was intro-
duced from Tangier as long
ago as 1872. When successfully
grown, it is looked upon as one
of the most charming species
of the genus. It shows a
marked liking for a warm, simny
situation, which is not surpris-
ing when we consider its habitat.
In favoured counties like Devon
and Cornwall it docs well, espe-
cially if given a sandy, gritty-
soil to which lime rubble has
been added. During the winter
it needs protection from heavy
rains. Some exceptionally tine
plants in full flower were shown
recently before the Royal Horticultural Society
by Messrs. Barr and Sons. The plants created
great interest and admiration by reason of their
healthy growth and lovely flowers. These plants
had been growii under glass from strong, selected
bulbs, which were potted up in early August and
given cold-frame treatment. It is worth noting
that this Iris makes a fine pot plant for the green-
house, and may be lightly forced like the Spanisli
Iris. The flowers vary in the upright standards
from light to dark blue, the falls usually of a paler
shade. Each has a bright golden blotch. Its
time for outdoor flowering is May and Jime, but
when growK as a greenhouse plant it may readily
be had in bloom at this season.

December 27, 1913-]

THE GARDEN.

649

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

HINTS ON PLANTING NEW SHRUBBERIES.

WHETHER the proposed new really rich soil helps matters wonderfully ; but i firmly with soil, leave a space of bare soil
shrubberies are to be large or there is a great deal that is of poor quality, and around them, as grass must not be allowed
small, every effort should be those persons who have to grow shrubs in such to grow right up to the stems. A large, round
made' to prepare the soil well, : should make it as suitable as possible before putting bed, 3, on a lawn is not difficult to plant. The
to put in the most suitable in the plants. Trenching is the first consideration, j large holes represent positions for the big
kinds of shrubs, and to arrange ' Whether the soil be rich, gravelly, sandy, peaty | shrubs, and the others for the small speci-
them in the most attractive way. Even a very ' or clayey, it must be trenched to a depth of at i mens. At plantmg-time there must be some
small shrubber\- makes a dwelling-house look ' least 20 inches. Thirty inches would be better, 1 formality, but it will be less apparent in a few

especially in cases where the larger kinds of ; years' time. The remaining sketch represents a
shrubs are to be grown. In carrying out | boundary fence and an arrangement of shrubs ;
the work, the cultivator must keep the sur- [ No. 4, a narrow strip of lawn ; No. 5, a narrow
face soil on the top, simply turning it over border in which some small specimens are planted ;
and breaking it up. The subsoil must be and No. 6, the path and tUe-edging. In thousands
kept below and well loosened with the aid of small gardens much privacy may be obtained
of the garden fork. If there is a grass turf j if the shrubs are so arranged, and there would
to deal with, the latter must be buried about ; be plenty of space for flowers. A few deciduous
nine inches below- the surface and chopped ' kinds of shrubs judiciously mixed with the evergreen
into squares. In a short time it will com- sorts will add to the general appearance and give
mence to decay and supply nourishing food j additional interest to those of a non-flowering

Jji.;^)^'^/7^M^//mk^'

-AP4

8

i;o

.^- - -- r<n

^■> 4. wt--

A. PLANTING CLIMBERS AGAINST A WALL AND

SPECIMEN TREES IN THE OPEN.

more substantial, inviting and comfortable.
Furthermore, shrubs afford the cultivator a great
amoimt of interest. He derives pleasure from
watching their growth, and in association with
them he can, all the more effectively, arrange
other subjects in the garden. Some shrubs look
best when grown in beds on the lawn, others are
more suitable for growing in side borders near
paths and walls, while many are the most effective
when treated as specimens.

How to Prepare the Soil. — Very fine shrubs
can be grown in quite poor soil if it is
well 'treated. So many cultivators are under
the impression that it is useless for them to attempt
to form a shrubbery because the rooting medium
is indifferent as regards quality. Of course,

for the shrubs for a considerable time

every case the best soil must

be kept near the surface, but

where poor soils obtain, the

most nourishing foods should

be placed on the surface and

just below it, as, owing to the

porosity of the soil, the rains

will soon wash down all the

best portion below the reach

of the roots.

Planting ttie Shrubs. — In

the case of a new shrubberj-,
it will be foimd necessary to
fill up space with temporary
shrubs, those intended to
remain permanently being
planted first. In Fig. A two
forms o£ shrubberies are
shown, one near a wall and
garden path, and the other
an irregularly-shaped one on
a lawn. In the first named,
herbaceous and other flower
roots may be used to fill in
space, so that aU the shrubs
put in will be permanent
subjects. No. i shows a
climber on the wall ; No. 2,
a standard deciduous tree ;
No. 3, a nice specimen coni-
fer ; No. 4, a dwarf shrub ;
and No. 5, the edging and
portion of path. In the large
lawn bed, Nos. 6, 7 and 8 denote
the larger permanent shrubs, all
others being planted to fill up the
vacant space. Some of them will
remain in their positions for probably
a dozen years before it will be
foiuid necessary to remove them to
allow sufficient space for the others
to grow in. Fig. B shows, at Nos. i,
2, 2, the way to group shrubs on
a lawn. There may be as many as
seven or even twelve in a group,
but in each case they should be so
disposed that every specimen can
be seen from whichever point it is
viewed. After covering the roots

In ! character.

G. G.

i£0i^0M^

■•"0

^i^''A''^fu, ■'■'■' ■.'..'■''''■'■■•' y.', ■''■., ' • ■'' '.'•■'"■'■''■■.

B. SHOWING HOW TO GROUP SHRUBS FOR EFFECT.

650

THE GARDEN.

[December 27, 1913.

GARDENING OF THE WEEK.

FOR

SOUTHERN GARDENS.

The Pleasure Grounds.

Paths. — Any paths that may have been cut
up through the heavy traffic of alterations should,
if possible, be put right at once. It may mean
that the whole surface of the path will need brealdng
up and regravelling. In such a case the old gravel
should be carefully levelled, and, if a fairly wde
path, sufficient camber should be allowed to take
the water away nicely, a flat path soon wearing
into holes through the water standing on it. If
the surface of the old gravel is left moderatelv
rough and the fresh gravel is carefully levelled
and well rolled, the whole will become thoroughlv
consolidated and not be likely to pick up.

The Flower Garden.

Double Arabis. — Considerable trouble is being
experienced in these gardens through the birds pull-
ing up or breaking off the young plants in the flower-
beds. Whether this is pure mischief, or whether
they do it to more easily get at the small black
slugs that secrete themselves on the under part
of the foliage, I do not Icnow ; but anyone experi-
encing the same trouble would be well advised to
place black cotton over the beds some 8 inches
or lo inches above the plants.

Nicotiana Colossea variegata. — Cuttings of

this beautiful subtropical beddmg plant should
be inserted in a brisk bottom-heat as they become
fit. Side growths, I find, root much more quickly
than the tops of old plants, and if rooted early
in the year and potted on as they require it, they
should make quite nice plants by planting-out-
time.

Dracaena indivisa is a most useful subject in
the flower garden, and young plants raised from
seed during the past spring should make quite
nice-sized plants for dotting purposes if kept
nicely moving through the winter and spring.
Potting on should be done at anv time as they
require it, 6-inch pots being about the right size
for plants raised this year, and should carry them
till they are required for planting out.

Acacia lophantha and Eucalyptus raised
during the summer should also be repotted as they
become fit, as if good, well-furnished plants are re-
quired, the pots must not be allowed to get too full
of roots before the plants are potted on. Very
little heat is required for these subjects ; but if
the plants are small, it might be wise to keep
them nicely on the move during the winter.

Plants Under Glass.

Pot Roses. — Plants req\iircd for fairly early
bloommg should be removed under cover at once,
where they should be allowed to get fairly dry
before the work of pruning is commenced. Unfortu-
nately, all Roses have continued growing, or at
least held most of their fohage till now. What
effect it will have on their flowering remains to be
seen, but they will not get much rest this season.
Plants permanently planted in the houses, whether
for covering the roof or in beds, may be pruned
at once. They should then be given a thorough
cleansing, also the house, after which a little of
the surface soil should be removed, substituting
this with a little fresh soil to which has been added
some half-spent manure and bone-meal. The
borders shotlld also be thoroughly well watered,
the subsequent treatment accorded the plants
varying with the date they are wanted in bloom
or with the varieties.

Pruning. — The Teas and Hybrid Teas do not
require such severe pruning as the Hybrid Per-
petuals, though it is doubtful if there are many
of these latter grown now in private places, except
perhaps Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. J. Laing, Captain
Hayward and one or two others.

Imantophyllum. — This most useful plant may
Ije had in flower over quite a long season if part
of the stock is introduced into heat and the re-
mainder allowed to come along gently in quite a
cool house. Plenty of manure-water is necessary
when the plants are throwing up their flower-
spikes, and this makes quite a lot of difference
not only to the size and colour of the flower, but
to the foliage as well.

Amaryllis. — Many of the early-flowered bulbs
last year arc now pushing their flower-spikes.

in a light position in one of the houses. Should
they be wanted quickly, they will stand a fair
amount of heat ; but care must be taken with the
watering, or the fohage is apt to overgrow the
flower-spike.

The Vegetable Garden.
Ridging the Soil, m addition to trenching.
IS a decided advantage where the soil is of a heavv
clayey nature. Such treatment allows as much
of the soil as possible to become thoroughly dis-
integrated with the action of frost and air, so that
when the season of sowing arrives it is drier and
breaks down nice and fine, and so provides a good
seed-bed. This latter is one of the essentials
towards the successful cultivation of all classes
of vegetables, and in soils of varying character
different means must be employed to attain the
desired end.

Fruits Under Glass.

Tomatoes. — These call for careful treatment
at this season, and where the plants are ripening
their fruit, too much moisture must not be afforded
at the root, nor must the atmosphere of the house
contain too much moisture, or heavy foliage and
little fruit will be the result. If the trusses are
fairly well set, the points of the shoots raav be
pinched out and thus induce the fruit to swell
quickly.

Fruit-Houses generally that have been started
some little time must be kept steadily moving,
making no attempt to hurry them until the days
begin to lengthen some little time hence, at the
same time maintaining the proper amount of heat
and humidity in the houses to ensure the growth
coming away strongly.

Strawberries. — Good batches of these may now
be placed indoors. The first batch will probably
have been in a week or two, and if in one of the
fruit-houses that have been started, the gentle
rising of the temperature should suit them well.
If the successional batches are put in as other
houses are shut up, they will naturally produce
a nice succession of fruit. Sufficient water should
be given at this season to keep them from getting
really dry, increasing it accordingly as the plants
make growth.

Hardy Fruits.

Raspberry Belle de Fontenay. — This autumn-
fruiting Raspberry has this season been more
prohfic than ever 1 have known it, and though the
flavour is not so good as at midsummer, it is,
nevertheless, very useful during September, October
and November, and even in December we have
gathered one or two good dishes of fruit. It is
an excellent grower, and where Raspberries are
in much demand, a row or two of this variety is
well worth growing.

Thomas Stevenson.
(Head-gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.)

Woburn Place Gardens, Addtestone, Surrey,

and directly this is noticed they must be placed | February.

FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.

The Flower Garden.

Digging and Trenching. — This work should
be pushed forward in open weather, but be left
severely alone during frost.

Calceolarias. — While these and other half-
hardy plants in frames should be well exposed
in open, mild weather, they must be sufficiently
protected from frost. Should severe frost set in.
It will be advisable to supplement the mats with
a covering of straw, and some loose litter should
also be placed round the box of the frame.

Protecting Early Bulbs. — Where Snowdrops
and Scillas are grown in square or oblong beds
for cutting purposes, a one or two light frame
may in turn be placed over Snowdrops, Scillas
or Chionodoxas, Dog's-tooth Violets and Daffodils,
thereby hastening the flowering period by a fort-
night or more.

The Rose Garden.

Late Operations. — Where any rearrangement
of beds or their occupants has been contemplated
and the work cannot be got through for some
little time, it will be wise to hft the plants without
delay and lay them in by the heels in a vacant
piece of ground, carefully named, deferring the
planting of them in their permanent places till

Rose Hebe's Lip.— This is one of the most
beautiful varieties of old garden Roses, and not
\ory well known, I think. It is a white Rose
with a tinge of bright pink on the tips of the petals,
which much enhances its beauty, especiallv in
the half-opened buds. I purchased it from Messrs.
Dobbie and Co. before they left Rothesay.

The Pleasure Grounds.
Trees and Snow. — When a heavy snowfall
occurs, valuable ornamental trees are ' frequently
damaged through the weight of accumulated
snow breaking the branches. If a heavy
fall of snow occurs, therefore, a rake or long pole
should be employed to dislodge the snow from
spreading ornamental trees such as Piceas, Pinuses
and Cedars.

Plants Under Glass.

Callicarpa purpurea. — This attractive purple-
berried stove shrub is now almost over for the
season, and may be cut' down to within about
six inches of the ground, either to be grown on
again or to furnish cuttings for young stock.

The Newer Winter Begonias. — Begonia Gloire
de Lorraine is as yet indispensable, but some of
the newer and larger-flowered varieties should
also be grown by those who have accommodation.
Such varieties as Miss Clibran, Optima, Progress
and Bank Hall Beauty can be recommended
without hesitation. I would also put in a plea
for old B. manicata.

Cinerarias. — These have made much growth
on account of the mild autumn. Vaporise
occasionally for green fly, and on the first appear-
■rnce of the leaf miner, spray with Quassia Chips
Extract.

Forcing Camellias. — These old-fashioned plants
should not be subjected to hard forcing ; but if
a few plants are introduced to an intermediate
temperature now, they will prove very useful
for the conservatory by the beginning of February.
Never allow them to suffer for the want of water,
or bud-dropping will be the result.

Bulbs. — With the lengthening days these will
respond more readily to a little forcing, and they
should be brought forward in considerable batches,
as it is in the early part of the year that they are
most prized. Daffodils will not stand such hard
forcing as Hyacinths and Tulips.

Fruits Under Glass.

Cordon Trees. — For Apples or Pears, the cordon
system has much to recommend it, its two chief
advantages being that one is able to obtain
fruit at the earliest possible moment, while by it
one can secure the maximum amount of fruit
in a given space.

Potting. — No time should be lost in procuring
the trees, and if they are to be potted, the operation
should be performed as soon as the trees come
to hand. Generally speaking, pots 12 inches
in diameter will be sufficient at first. Drain the
pots carefully and use a compost of about five
parts of sound, fibrous loam to one part of rotten
cow-manure. Ram firmly with the potting-stick
and leave quite 2 inches for water. Water through
a rose and plunge the plants outside among some
light material, standing the pots on a slate to
prevent the ingress of worms.

The Vegetable Garden.
Jerusalem Artichokes. — This crop requiring a
long period of growth, it cannot be planted too
early in the year, provided that the ground is in
good condition. Keeping this in view, the quarter,
if not already trenched, should be done so at once
if the weather permits. A rather light soil suits
this crop best, and it should not be too highly
enriched, or stems instead of tubers will be the
result.

Home-Made Pea Guards. — An effective Pea
guard can be made by tacking 18-inch wire-netting
(half-inch mesh) on to lengths of wood 2 inches
square. A man at each end then lifts the guard
on to the line of Peas, and draws the lengths of
wood slightly closer till an arch is formed over
the line of Peas.

Pea Stakes. — No time should be lost in pre-
paring a sufficient quantity of these. Beech,
Elm and Hazel all make first-rate Pea stakes.
Those who cannot get natural ones must fall
back on wire-netting or wire hurdles.

Charlfs Comfort.
Brooinficld Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.

Dkcember 27, 1913O

GARDENING ACROSTICS.

THE GARDEN.

A S announced in our issue for November 22,

t\ we are publishing eight gardening

/ % acrostics, to be divided into two sets of

^^^ four each. Each light correctly guessed

/ m will count one, and also each " first "

and each " last." Thus, supposing

the whole is China (firsts), Aster (lasts), the

full marks will be seven — one for China, one

for Aster, and one for each of the five lights

C . . . A, H . . . S, I . . . T, N . . . E and

A . . . R. Hence, suppose a competitor got

everything right but the light I ... T, he would

count six, and it would not matter if he attempted

to solve that particular light or not.

Those entering for the acrostics must observe
the rules published on page 607 of the issue of
December 6.

DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. 4.

A very big book, written in a very big way
almost exactly 200 years ago. The last of its
type.

Firsts — the type.

Lasts — the author's surname.

1. I once gave the Dutch a horrid fright.

2. A famous book, written for Old England's

glory.

3. A great Russian botanist of modem times.

4. A gardener once law the capability of the spot

and made a lake and his fortune. Where
was this at ?

5. The Strawberry Tree.

6. The surname of the man who gave us " the

most complete book of Gardening ever

published." A regular gardening octopus

iu its wide embrace.

Solutions of the above must be sent so as to reach

the Editor at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden,

London, W.C.,nol later than the first post on Saturday,

JantMry 3, 1914. Mark the envelope "Acrostic " in

the top left-hand corner.

SOLUTION AND NOTES OF
ACROSTIC No. 2.

NECTARINE— RASPBERRY.

• I. N UPHA R

t 2. E RIO A

J 3. C ARELES S

§ 4. T ULI P

II 5. A RA B

H 6. R ic E

•* 7. I NFERIO R

tt 8. N ECTA R

JJ 9. E BON Y

Firsts — ^If a Peach stone be sown, it is quite
uncertain whether the resulting plant will be a
Peach (downy) or a Nectarine (smooth), and
vice versa. Lasts — -Botanically, a Raspberry is
such a fruit. The Red Antwerp and the Yellow
Antwerp were known considerably more than a
hundred 5'ears ago. * Nuphar is thus described in
"Nicholson's Dictionary of Gardening": "The
yellow Water Lily of our streams and pools is a
Nuphar." t Ericas come from South Africa.
They were a very popular genus for greenhouse
cultivation about the sixties and seventies.
{ Gooseberries are called " berries " among Goose-
berry show people. Careless, raised near Birming-
ham, is an old variety of excellent flavour. In
the "Gooseberry Grower's Register" for 1889
It occupied the premier position as the heaviest
white berry. § The Tulip is thus described in

" Le Floriste Francois" in 1654, page 20(3. This
is an exceedingly rare book on Tulips. It is the
first floral monograph ever published. || .An inter-
esting account of the Arab influence on the coasts
of the .Mediterranean is to be found in " Wander-
ings of Plants and Animals," by Heyn and Stally-
brass, pages 37 and 38 and 336 and 337. H Rice was
the staple food of the poor Indian for generations
before it was introduced to America. — " Wander-
ings of Plants and .Animals," page 383. ** See
any book on botany for description of terms,
tt In Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Imperial) the
nectaries are in shallow excavations on the
inner side of the perianth leaves near their base.
Each one exudes a large drop of nectar, which is
seen on loolcing down into the flower. %% Dios-
p>Tos ebenum produces the best Ebony. See
such a book as " McCullocli's Commercial Dic-
tionary," under " Ebony."

*,* Owing to the Christmas holiday, this issue
had to go to press before Die last day for sending in
solutions of Acrostic No. 2. The results of this
wilt therefore appear in our issue for January 3. 1014,
together with the results of .Vo, t,.

THE

NAMING OF TULIP
BREAKS.

M

AY I thank Messrs. Leak, Krelage and
Needham for their most interesting
letters ? The naming of breaks has
become an important question to
both the sellers and the purchasers
of Tulips. The striped flowers that
we used to root up and consign to the rubbish heap
are going to be marked, saved and " grown on."
.Already I hear of one of the largest wholesale firms
of Holland casting about to secure stocks so as to
be in a position to serve their .American customers.
It is a straw which shows the direction of the wind.
Only let the fashion grow, so that these broken
Tulips command a ready sale, and we shall all of us
be saving all we can. This is when the difficulty
will begin. Clara Butt may break in any or all
of the many gardens in which it is grown. .As the
custom is at present, there is nothing to prevent
Mr. Leak giving the break one name, Mr. Krelage
another, myself a third, and so on ad infinitum.
When only an odd Cottage or Darwin break was
picked out here and there, it did not very much
matter how the names were given ; but let the
numbers appreciably increase and these broken
varieties become fashionable, then some hard-and-
fast system becomes imperative, or their nomencla-
ture will soon be in a hopeless state of confusion.
Mr. Needham, in The Garden of December 6,
has told us how the Tulip men of the past and
present avoid this. The underlying principle ot
their nomenclature is " Once a Sir Joseph Paxton,
always a Sir Joseph Paxton." The rectification
or the becoming striped is only a stage in a bulb's
life-history, and the change does not make a new
variety any more than the growth of whiskers,
beard and moustache on the smooth face of John
Smith makes the aforesaid John Smith into Peter
Jones. They speak of a self-coloured Sir Joseph
Paxton as Sir Joseph Paxton breeder, and when it
is striped, as Sir Joseph Paxton rectified, or, more
usually, they give the type of rectification into which
it has broken — if with only a light marking on the
edge of the petals, as feathered, or if with much
colour' all over them, as flamed and feathered.
Every break must take on, roughly speaking, one

651

or the other of these markings ; so a Cottage or
a Darwin variety will always give a lighter or a
darker break corresponding, I believe, to the
".feathered" and the "flamed and feathered"
of the strict florists. From a conversation I have
had with Mr. Leak, I gather that this is his ex-
perience. It certainly is mine, only I find that
there is an almost inevitable tendency for the
delightful light breaks to become dark in the course
of a year or two. How well I remember an
exceedingly lovely broken Tara being shown at
one of the last of the Temple Shows by Mr. B. S.
Faudel-Phillips, who kindly gave me half-a-dozen
that same autumn. What has happened ? Mine
became so heavily coloured that they lost all their
beauty, so much so that last year I consigned them
all to the " mixed." .At the Perpetual Flowering
Carnation Show in December I met Mr. Faudel-
Phillips' gardener, and he told me that theirs have
gone just like mine. I mention this because 1
believe that there is a tendency for all breaks to
go much the same in the course of time. .As Mr.
Needham has told us, the various strains of Sir
Joseph Paxton are now practically all one. What-
ever difference there once was has not been
retained.

Naming difficulties, of one sort or another, have
always been a Tulip appendage. Nothing can
well be simpler or better than the practice of the
strict florists, and if their flowers were the only
ones, and they themselves the only cultivators,
there would be an end of the matter. To-day,
however, instead of being the only growers of
Tulips, they are but a very small minority, and it
is a case of other men, other manners, both with
respect to the types that are esteemed and the
system of naming. Again, we must remember
that what I may call the simple and expressive
system is, after all, but a comparatively modern
invention, and that we never read of Semper
Augustus, or Gonda, or Admiral van der Eyck of
the Tulip mania time, or of Zomerschoon or French
Crown, which are older by far than Sir Joseph
Paxton or Trip to Stockport, as being flamed or
feathered. (It could not be done now if one wished,
for no one knows from what they sprang.)

Here then, is our difficulty and perplexity.
We have two types of flowers, two types of growers
and two methods of naming ; one scientific and
expressive, one " anyhow." Should we continue
as we are, or should we try to establish the newer
and more accurate system ? I should like to do
so if I thought it practicable, but I do not. It
might make confusion doubly confounded. I do
not know if I have found the Philosopher's Stone,
but I have been busy looking for it ever since I
read Mr. Krelage's article, and here is the result
of my efforts. I would propose that the joint
committee who will meet at Wisley draw up a list
of break names for all the Cottage and Darwin
Tulips that they know of, and that then they should
strongly recommend everyone to adopt them.
Thus, supposing the name .Australia is given to the
rectified form of Clara Butt, everyone would liuow
what to call his break, for all breaks are the same,
whether they take place at Haarlem or Wisbech
or Whitewell. Some might be darker and some
lighter at the start, but the difference will not
continue for long ; but while it lasts it could easily
be noted in the catalogue description. This scheme
would leave all existing names as they are, it would
be carrying out the principles of the newer nomen-
clature of the show men, and it would provide
a series of ready-made pigeon-holes, into which we
could all put our breaks. If a new variety is

652

THE GARDEN.

[December 27, 1913-

introduced, tlie introducer would give it a double
name, one for its breeder, the other for its rectified
state.

If this suggestion is thought feasible and ulti-
mately adopted, although it will not altogether
appeal to my reason it will to my sentiment, for
the contemporaries of Wearmondt and Gaergcedt
(1637) spoke of Gonda and Semper Augustus
simply, so in sinning we shall but be one with them,
even if they did it through ignorance and we
because of expediency. Joseph Jacob.

ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.

RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter ivhat the bra/nch of gardening may be, and
with that object will m,ake a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All commtmicatlons should be
clearly and concisely ivritten on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the EDITOR of The Garden, 20. Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered arid securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and floivering
shoots, ivhere possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Pcblisher.

FLOWER GARDEN.

BELLADONNA LILIES NOT FLOWERING (Z. M.F. F.)-

— The reason why your plants of Amaryllis Belladonna
fio not flower is possibly the bulljs are not ripened properly
in the position where they are growing. As a rule, the
best results are obtained when the bulbs are growing at
the foot of a warm wall ; in such a position they are
usually sure of well-drained ground, while the heat from
the wall assists in ripening the bulbs. Perhaps your
plants would give more satisfactory results if you moved
them to a position at the foot of a greenhouse wall.

ANTIRRHINUMS DISEASED (F. B.).~1he Antir-
rhiuums which you now send, and which have arrived in
excellent condition for examination, packed in moss in a
tin box — we wish all oxir correspondents would adopt
this fashion of packing, or improve upon it by folding
the specimens in a piece of soft paper (not cotton-wool)
first— enable us to say that they are attacked by a fungus.
This fungus, which is apparently a species of Septoria,
is fruiting abundantly, and by means of the spores which
it produces \viU, no doubt, travel very quickly. Not only
are the leaves attacked and brown spots produced upon
them, but there are patches on the stems which also show
the trouble, and which soon spread through the stem,
killing it at this spot and, of course, all above the spot
attacked. It would be well to remove all the plants
affected as completely as possible and burn them, taking
care that the spores are disturbed as little as possible in
the doing of it. Immediately after this, spray the plants
with a solution of potassium sulphide at the rate of loz.
to three gallons of water.

ROSE GARDEN.

ROSES INJURED BY INSECTS (F. G. P.).— We rather
tliink the trouble arises from earwigs, which have been
very prevalent this year. We also think the browning
of the flowers has been rather the result of the washes
applied. We think if you used a strong solution of Quassia
chips you wniild at li'a^i maki^ the foliage objectionable
to till' iTisici-. AN" 'ji\r tlir soil a good dusting of soot.

TREATMENT OF AMERICAN PILLAR (A. B. S.).—
In the ease of flue, vigorous growers like American Pillar,
the young growths should always have separate supports,
such as Bamboo canes, allotted to them, so that they do
not impede the development of the flower-clusters or
hinder their own growth from maturing. Where possible,
the old growths should be almost isolated, so that each
may display the fine trusses to the best advantage. This
also ensures the more rapid development of the whole
plant.

ROSES FOR HOUSE FRONT {Catkeruie). — Two
excellent varieties would he Climbintr Caroline Testout
and Gloire de Dijon. You could either nail the gro\vths
to the wall by means of some shreds or put in at intervals
some small hooks so as just to loop the growths as they
need it. We rather prefer this latter arrangement, as a
Rose appears more natural when it hangs away from the
wall a little and the pendulous nature of the growth
induces a more abundant blooming. A good creeper
for the side of the house would be Clematis montana,
white Jasmine or Wistaria.

ROSE FOLIAGE DISEASED {Lady Beaumont).~The
Itoses have been badly infested with Rose slugworm.
It has been very prevalent this year, and might easily
have been discovered beneath the foliage. The slugworms
are very small, of a pale yellowish green colour. They
can easily be killed by spraying the bushes with nicotine
wash, repeating it at frequent intervals. In winter,
remove the surface soil of all the beds very carefully
and have it burnt, placing fresh soil on the roots, as the
larvse, when mature, fall to the ground and pupate in
the soil in small oval cocoons.

THE GREENHOUSE.

PRICE OF BEGONIA METALLICA (T. H. S.).— This
Begonia cannot by any means be termed a scarce variety.
If it is a well-furnished plant in good condition it should
be worth 5s.

LEONTICE {W. P. W.). — There are three or four species
of Leontice, but they are tuberous, not bulbous, plants.
The flowers of the different kinds are of a yellow or yellowish
colour, borne several together on a spike from G inches
to 1 foot in height. They are hardy in a well-drained
soil, but flower so early in the year that they are most
satisfactory when grown under glass.

THE GREENHOUSE WINTER SWEET (C. W. £.1.—
This plant, known by the scientific names of Acokanthera
spectabihs and Toxicophlsea, comes from the northern
portion of Natal, and consequently requires more heat
than South African plants in general. It thrives in the
coolest part of the stove or in an intermediate house ;
that is to say, a structure with a minimum night tempera-
ture of 50°, rising during the daytime and increasing as
the days lengthen and the sun gains power. A compost
made up of loam, peat and sand will suit the Acokanthera.
As your plants are iu small pots, we should not advise you
to shift them until the month of February, as the roots
will by then be regaining their normal activity and soon
take possession of the new soil. If you desire to grow your
plants in the form of bushes, they must have the growing
points pinched out several times during their earlier stages,
for the Acokanthera is naturally of a somewhat straggliug
habit of growth. It does well trained up the glass at the
end of a warm structiue. The flowers, borne in dense
axillary clusters, usually during the winter months, have
obtained for it the name of the Winter Sweet, which,
by the way, is also applied to a hardy shrub — Chimonanthus
fragrans. You say nothing as to the treatment your
plants have received, hence we cannot indicate the weak
spot in their culture.

FRUIT GARDEN.

QUINCES SPLITTING (A. P., Sussex).— The rotting of
the Quince is due to there being a crack into which rot-
producing fungi could gain an entrance. It does not appear
that the cracking was' in any way due to the fungus, but
probably the attack of the' latter began after the fruit
was picked. There is nothing in the frmt to suggest
the cause of the cracking, but probably the roots got dry
in the summer, and as a consequence the skin rather set,
while the wet weather we have experienced since August
caused it to attempt to swell so rapidly that the skin
burst. We do not think the wood-ashes had anything
to do AVith the trouble.

BLACK CURRANTS AND BIG-BUD (Forfar). — The
big-bud disease among Black Currant bushes has become
all too common, not many gardens being free from it.
It seems a hopeless task to try to exterminate it; so
many have tried, and all have failed as far as we know.
The best we can hope to do is to keep it more or less in
subjection, and the only way of doing this is the method
you propose to adopt with your young Boskoop Giant
tree, namely, pick off the diseased buds and burn them and
the mites together. There is one comfort we can take to
heart in the matter, namli|^4hat trees (and we have noticed
old trees especially) secfi'to go on bearing good crops
of fruit in spite of the disease.

MISCELLANEOUS.

IMPROVING iTHE SOIL (A. £.).— Remove the sardine
tins, broken bnlt It s and crockery as completely as possible,
and give a guod dn^sLng of stable manure and dig in.
As a general manure you may mix (at the rate per square
yard) loz. of sulphate of potash, half an ounce of sulphate
of ammonia, half an ounce of superphosphate, and fork
in lightly in spring. Nitrate of soda may be used sparingly
for special cases in which it is desired to get plants to
grow more vigorously. »

TENCH WEED (G. E., Smsex).— The weed in your lake
is the Tench Weed (Potamogeton natans). The only
way to eradicate it is to keep it pulled out. If it were
possible to clean the lake out entirely, that, by removing
the mud, would go a long way towards destroying the
weed. The lower kinds of plant-life, such as Alga:, may
be destroyed by adding copper sulphate to the water
at the rate of one part to 750.000 to 1,000,000 parts of
water, but such weeds as the Tench Weed would require
a much stronger solution, and one which would kill all
kinds of water plants and fish at the same time.

USEFUL INSECTICIDES (G. 5.).— The best wash for
aphis on Roses or anything else is one of the Tobacco
washes, which may be made bv steeping half a pound
of Tobacco leaf in water for two h'^urs and diluting to ten
gallons ; but it is not cheap. We have found Quassia
and soft soap almost equally ettective, so long as it is used
when the insects first make their appearance. It is made
by boiling gently lib. of Quassia chips in water for a couple
of hours, dissolving half a pound of soft soap in the water

and diluting the whole to tea gallons. This may be used
indoors, but we know of no better dip than the one made by
kneading flowers of sulphur in a handful of soft soap
and dissolving the mixture in one and a-half gallons of
hot water. This is excellent for sponging or dipping
Palms and similar plants.

OIL -STOVE FOR HEATING A TOMATO -HOUSE
(B. W. A.). — If you object to pipes in the house, you cannot
do better than have a stove such as the one you refer to.
These and similar stoves are very useful, and serve the
purpose well if they are kept clean and filled late every
night, so that the wick can be left burning level for the
night. Several firms advertise lamps in The Gakden
from time to time, which heat short lengths of pipes filled
with water and fixed to the top of the lamp. For a long,
narrow house, such as yours, a lamp of this kind would
give a more even heat throughout the structure.

INJURY TO CARNATIONS AND GRAPES (Enquirer).—
The leaves of thr < 'amutions are badly attacked by the
fungus Heterosporiuni t-chinulatum. This fungus is
always more prevalent, like the rust, in houses where the
atmosphere is moist than where it is dry, and we should
recommend you to keep the night temperature up to about
54°, to keep the air dry, and to ventilate on all suitable
occasions. The Grapes sent are not only of poor colour,
but also of poor size, and the spotting on them appears
somewhat like that produced by red .spider, but may be
due to mealy bug. Is the house devoted only to Grapes ?
If not, they are probably interfered with by the other
occupants. Perhaps, also, the temperature has been too
low or variable. They certainly ought to be going to rest
now. The fact that you have found shanking to occur
is clear eviih'iwt^ thut there is something wrong with the
border, and until that is attended to it is not at all likely
that you will U- jil'lo to get good Grapes. In all probability
the drainage of the border is defective, and very likely also
there is a deficiency of potash, which should be made" good
by manure.

CARNATIONS SPLITTING THEIR CALYCES (E. M. B.).
— Carnations split their calyces from many and various
causes, lack of cultivation, overfuluess of the flower,
short and ill-shaped pods, being some of the primary
causes. Some burst habitually because of their short,
Pear-shaped pods, i.e., those which are unduly large at
the top and small at the base. Such as these, unless they
possess some special quaUty of colour or fragrance, are
not worth tolerating, seeing there are so many varieties
of all sections to-day without the defect of which you
complain. The flower that opens perfectly when rightly
cultivated is that having a long, cylindrically-inclined
calyx or pod, and from which the petals rise in regular
order. We remember the late Mr. James Douglas, who
raised thousands of seedling Carnations each year, saying
that if three dozen of such a lot were good enough to merit
a trial a second year, and one dozen sufficiently good in
that trial to rank as flrst-rate flowers, he was perfectly
satisfied. In so large a lot of seedlings we have seen
scores that would have been welcome thirty years ago ;
but to-day, so rigid is the selection and so good the existing
strains of these flowers, there is only room for the
very best.

NAMES OF PLANTS.— ^iice Oill.—l, Tradescantia

crassicaulis ; 2, Lotus Bertholettii. W. E. — 1, Cypri-

pedium insigne variety ; 2, C. Niobe ; 3, C. arthurianum ;
4, C. leeanum variety ; 5, probably Oncidium flexuosum.

THE EDITOR'S TABLE.

Outdoor Flowers from Tunbridge Wells. —

A lady who signs herself " J. M. N." sends a most
interesting collection of flowers, gathered from the
open, with the following letter : " We are sending
you a few flowers for your table, all picked from the
open borders in the garden — Daphne fioniana,
D. Uauphinii, Desfontainea spinosa, Fuchsia
microphylla, Grevillea sulphurea, Humea elegans,
Leptospermum scoparium, Lithospermum rosmari-
nifolium and Parochetus communis. The two
Daphnes have been in constant bloom since April,
and the Grevillea has had some flowers on
it ever since October, 1912. We planted the
Parochetus as a small plant on the north side
of the rockery in June, and it is now a large
mass of leaf and bloom, covering a space of
14 feet. Our Leptospermum was planted several
years ago in one of the most exposed parts of the
garden. It is now 10 feet 7 inches high, and there
is hardly a month in the year in which there is
no blossom on it. In July this year it J|was
perfectly white with flowers all over it. It seeds
itself freely in the gravel walks and borders near
the shrub. The Lithospermum flowers are such an
exquisite blue. We hope they will not all have
fallen off by the time they reach you."

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