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COMPANION “

THE FLOWER-GARDEN. —

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, NEW YORK rs i>
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S: -« SECOND AMERICAN, FROM THE THIRD LONDON EDITION.
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* AUTHOR oF A rneatiad on LANDSCAPE GARDENING : COTTAGE RESIDENCES,
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* JOHN WILEY, 18 PARK PLACE,
” we NEAR COLUMBIA COLLEGE.

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By WIuRy & PUTN

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CONTENTS. | |
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TRODUCTION . : = xz
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| ts - CHAPTER I
Stirring the soil es ee ‘ 13
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- CHAPTER IL. # ‘
Manuring the and making hot-beds : . 23
CHAPTER III. |
~ .
Sowing seeds—planting bulbs an transplanting and water-
ing . . . . - > * & 34
CHAPTER IV.

Modes of propagation by division, viz.: taking off suckers, maxing
layers and cuttings, budding, grafting, andimarching . . 46

&. CHAPTER V. co *
Pruning, training, protecting frum frost, and destroying insects . 69
CHAPTER VI. rs

Window gardening, and the management of plants in pots in small _
grcen-houmes . 86 6 © © e.-: o 80

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PREFACE

TO THE AMERICAN EDITION

bad

Mrs. Loupon’s “Gardening for Ladies,’ and her
“Companion to the Flower-Garden,” have been most
favorably received: in England. The simplicity and
clearness with which she explains every branch of
gardening, attract at once the novice and the amateur,
who have had little practical experience, and who
would be little interested in a less sprigh*iy and more
scientific work. ee

The Editor of the American edition is confident that
this volume will be a most acceptable one to a large
number of persons in this country. Most of the Eng-
lish works on Horticulture being addressed to those
comparatively familiar with every thing in the com-
mon routine of garden operations, a considerable de-
gree of previous knowledge of the subject is supposed.
With us, on the contrary, there are few who do not
“begin at the beginning” for themselves, and who
therefore desire earnestly those simple and elementary
instructions, which more learned and elaborate trea-
tises have deemed it superfluous to give.

Mrs. Loudon’s works are intended especially for the
benefit of lady gardeners,—a class of amateurs which,
in England, numbers many and zealous devotees, even

a

7 : - 3

7. * ee

iv PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITIONS

among the highest eaitiea: It i e to be hoped, that gale
dissemination in this country of works like the present -
volume, may increase, among our own fair country-
_women, the taste for these delightful occupations in the
open air. which are so conducive to their own health,
and to the beauty and interest of our homes.

In this volume all that portion of the “ Gardening
for Ladies” relating to the kitchen garden, with some
other matters treated of a second time in the “ Com-
panion,” has been omitted, as not likely to be of much
value here. A number of notes have been added to
the “Companion,” which appeared to be render
necessary by differences resulting from our climate, é
These notes are distinguished by bracket>, and by the
letters Er. mee

INTRODUCTION.

, a
Wuen I married Mr. Loudon, it is scarcely possible to
‘magine any person more completely ignorant than I was, of
every thing relating to plants and gardening ; and, as may be
easily imagined, I found every one about me so well acquaint-
ed with the subject, that I was soon heartily ashamed of my
ignorance. My husband, of course, was quite as anxious to
teach me as | was to learn, and it is the result of his instruc-
tions that I now (after ten years’ experience of their Mercy
wish to make public for the benefit of others.
I do this, because I think books intended for professional ts
gardeners are seldom suitable to the wants of amateurs. It
is so very difficult for a person who has been acquainted with
a subject all his life, to imagine the state of ignorance in
which a aig is who knows nothing of it, that adepts often
find it in ible to communicate the knowledge they possess.
Thus, fe may at first sight appear presumptuous in me-
to attempt to teach an art of which for three-fourths of my lifes
I was perfectly ignorant, it is in fact that very circumstance
whict is one of my chief qualifications for the task. Having
* been a full-grown pupil myself, I know the wants of others in
a similar situation ; and having never been satisfied without
knowing the reason for every thing I was told to do, I am able
to impart these reasons to others. Thus my readers will be
able to judge for themselves, and to adapt their practice. to
the circumstances in which they may be placed. a /

xii INTRODUCTION. _ee
- ‘s* ¥ » %

= 3 , “en
___ In the present edition, the whole work has be carefully —
~ revised and improved ; and several considerable and impor-
tant additions have been made. * . + at
I have only to add, that I have spared no pains to render
the work as perfect as I could make it. The engravings have
been made here from drawings of specimens previously pre-
pared, and I can therefore vouch for their accuracy. ie
1. Wed

Bayswater, Dec. 16, 1840

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GARDENING FOR LADIES.

, Sie CHAPTER L[.

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° STIRRING THE es. .

Digging.—Every one knows that the first operation of the gar-
dener, whether a new garden is to be made, or merely an old one
re-planted, is to dig the ground; though but comparatively few per-
sons are aware why this is so essentially necessary to be done.
When a piece of rough ground is to be taken into cultivation,
and a garden made where there was none before, the use of digging
is obvious enough; as the ground requires to be levelled, and di-
vided by walks, sal thrown up into beds, to give it the shape and
appearance of a garden, which could not be done without stirring
the soil: but why the beds in an old garden should be always dug
or forked over, before they are re-planted, is quite another question,
and one that requires some consideration to answer.

Wh soil, except sand or loose gravel, remains unstirred for
a length of time, it becomes hard, and its ‘particles adhere so firmly
together as not to be separated without manual force. It is quite
clear that when soil is in this state, it is unfit for the reception of
seeds; as the tender roots of the young plants will not be able to
penetrate it without great difficulty, and neither air nor water can
reach them in sufficient quantity tomake them thrive. Whena seed
is put into the ground, it is the warmth and moisture by which it is
surrounded that make it vegetate. It first swells, and the skin with
which it is covered cracks and peels off; then two shoots issue from

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_ the vital knot, (a point easily discoverable in large seeds,) one of
which descends and is called the root, while the other ascends to
form the leaves, stem, flowers, and fruit. °.

This is what is meant by the germination of the seed, and this
may be effected by the aid of heat and moisture alone, as is done
with mustard and cress, when raised on wet flannel in a saucer. But

© plants raised in this manner cannot be of long duration ; as, ale

they will live for a short time on the albumen contained in the
(on which they feed, as the chicken does on the nourishment con- ~
tained in the egg,) this is soon exhausted, and the plant will die if
not supplied with fresh food, which it can only obtain a bas of
the root. Thus, the root is necessary, not only to f e to
support the plant and to keep it upright, but to supply it with food;
and nature has given it a tendency to bury itself in the ground, not
only to enable the plant to take a firm hold of the soil, but to preserve
the root in a fitting state for absorbing food, which it can only do’
when it is kept warm, moist, and secluded from the light. +
The manner in which the root is fitted for the purposes for which
it was designed, affords an admirable illustration of the care and
wisdom displayed by the Great Creator in all his works. In nature
* nothing is superfluous, and yet everything has been provided for. It
has been already observed, that the two principal uses of the root are
to give the plant a firm hold of the ground, and to supply it with
food. _ For the first purpose the root either spreads so widely through :
the surface soil as to form a sufficient base for the height of the plant,
or it descends a sufficient depth into the earth to steady the part
above ground; and in either case the growth of the plant is wisely
and wonderfully proportioned to the strength of the support which
the root affords it. For the second purpose, that of supplying the
plant with nourishment, the root divides at the a % each
shoot into numerous fibrés or fibrils, each furnished at its extremi
_ with a spongiole or spongy substance, which affords the only ve
the plant possesses of absorbing the moisture necessary for its sup-
port. It is thus quite clear, that every thing that tends to nourish
and increase the growth of the root, must contribute to the health and’
vigour of the rest of the plant; and that no plant can thrive, the root
of which is cramped in its growth, or weakened for want of nourish-
ment. This being allowed, it is evident that the frst step towards
promoting the growth of any plant is to provide a fitting receptacle

* ;

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5 ‘STIRRING THE SOIL, 16

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for the root; and this is done by pulverizing the ground in which the

ef?

» ~ geed is to be sown, so as to rende 1 a fit state for the roots to pen-

etrate it easily. Thus they will neither be checked in their growth
for want of room, be obliged to waste their strength in over-
coming unnecessary obstacles; such as twining themselves round a
stone, or to force their way through a hard clod of earth. The
second point of affording the root abundance of nourishment may
be obtained by pulverizing the ground; as pulverization, by ad-
itting the rain to percolate slowly through the soil, affords a proper

and equitable supply of food to the spongioles, without suffering the

surplus water to remain so long around the roots, as to be in danger
of rotti : . *
These then are the reasons why it may be laid down as a general
rule, that all ground shou d _ efore seeds are sown in it;
but there are other reasons which operate only partially, and are yet
almost as necessary to be attended to. When manure is applied, the
ground is generally well dug, in order to mix the manure intimately
with the soil: and when the soil appears worn out, or poisoned with
excrementitious matter, from the same kind of plants being too long
grown in it, it is trenched; that is, the upper or surface soil is taken
off by spadefuls and laid on one side, and the bottom or sub-soil is
taken out to a certain depth previously agreed on, and laid in another
heap. The surface soil is then thrown into the bottom of the trench,
and the sub-soil laid on the surface, and thus a completely new and
fresh soil is offered to the plants. These partial uses of digging
should, however, always be applied with great caution, as in some
cases manure does better laid on the surface, so that its juices only
may drain into the ground, than when it is intimately mixed with
the soil; and there are cases when, from the sub-soil being of an in-
ferior ualiffe trenching must be manifestly injurious. Reason and
experience are, in these cases, as in most others, the best guides. *
The uses of digging having been thus explained, it is now neces _

“sary to say something of its practice, and particularly of its applica-

bility tolladies. It must be confessed that digging appears at first
sight a very laborious employment, and one peculiarly unfitted to
small and delicately formed hands and feet; but, by a little attention
to the principles of mechanics and the laws of motion, the labour
may be much simplified and rendered comparatively easy. ‘The op-
eration of digging, as performed by a gardener, consists in thrusting

\ ws

16 STIRRING THE SOIL.

the iron part of the spade, which acts as a wedge, perpendicularly
into the ground by the application of the foot, and then using the
long handle as a lever, to raise up the loosened earth and turn it
over. The quantity of earth thus raised is called a spitful, and the
gardener, when he has turned it, chops it to break the clods, with the
sharp edge of his spade, and levels it with the back. ‘During the
whole operation, the gardener holds the cross part of the handle of
the spade in his right-hand, while he grasps the smooth round lower |
part of the handle in his left, to assist him in raising the earth anc
turning it, sliding his left hand backwards and forwards along the
handle, as he may find it necessary.

This is the common mode of digging, and it certainly appears to
require considerable strength in the foot to force the spade into the
ground,—in the arms, to raise it when loaded with the earth that is to
be turned over,—and in the hands, to grasp the handle. But it must

be remembered that all operations that are effected rapidly by the ex-_

ertion of great power, may be effected slowly by the exertion of very
little power, if that comparatively feeble power be applied for a much
greater length of time. For example, if a line be drawn by a child
in the earth with a light cane, and the cane be drawn five or six times
successively along the same line, it will be found that a furrow has
been made in the soil with scarcely any exertion by the child, that
the strongest man could not make by a single effort with all his force
In the same way a lady, with a small light spade, may, by repeatedly
digging over the same line, and taking out only a little earth at a
time, succeed in doing, with her own hands, all the digging that can
be required in a small garden, the soil of which, if it has been long
in cultivation, can never be very hard, or very difficult to penetrate ;
and she will not only have the satiaetctian of seeing the garden
created, as it were, by the labour of her own hands, ae she will find

her health and spirits wonderfully improved dy the exercise, ang by

the reviving smell of the fresh earth.

The first point to be attended to, in order to render the operation
of digging less laborious, is to provide a suitable spade; that is, one
which shal! be as light as is consistent with strength, and which will
penetrate the ground with the least possible trouble. For this pur-
pose, the blade of what is called a lady’s spade is made of not more
than half the usual breadth, say not wider than five or six inches,
and of smooth polished iron, and ‘t is surmounted, at the part where

”

“fi

&

STIRRING THE SCIL. _ 17

it joins the handle, by a piece of iron rather broader than itself,
which 1s called the tread, to serve as a rest for the foot of the opera-
tor while digging. ‘The handle is about the usual length, but quite
smooth and sufficiently slender for a lady’s hand to grasp, and it 1s
made of willow, a close, smooth, and elastic wood, which is tough
and tolerably strong ieach camels lighter than cia the wood gen-
erally used for the hitadios to gardeners’ spades. The lady should
so be provided with clogs, the soles of which are not jointed, to put
over her shoes; or if she should dislike these, and prefer strong
~ shoes, she should be provided with what gardeners call a tramp, that
is, a small plate of iron to go under the sole of the shoe, and which
is fastened round the foot with a leathern strap and buckle. She
should also have a pair of stiff thick leathern gloveg, or gauntlets,

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A Lady’s Gauntlet of strong leather, invented by Miss Perry of Stroud, near Hazlemere.

to protect her hands, not only from the handle of the spade, but from
the stones, weeds, &c., which she may turn over with the earth, and
B*

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18 ‘a STIRRING THE SOIL.

which ought to be picked out and thrown into a small, light wheel-
barrow, which may easily be moved from place to place.

Lady’s Wheel-barrow.

A wheel-barrow is a lever of the second kind, in which the weight
is carried between the operator, who is the moving power, and the
fulcrum, which is represented by the lower part of the wheel. If it.
be so contrived that the wheel may roll on a plank, or on firm ground,
a very slight power is sufficient to move the load contained in the bar-
row ; particularly if the handles be long, curved, and thrown up as
high as possible, in order to let the weight rest principally upon the
wheel, without obliging the operator to bend forward. When, on
the contrary, the handles are short and straight, the weight is thrown
principally on the arms of the operator, and much more strength is
required to move the load, besides the inconvenience of stooping.

All the necessary implements for digging being provided, the next
thing to be considered is the easiest manner of performing the opera-
tion. The usual way is for the gardener to thrust his spade perpen-
dicularly into the ground, and then using the handle as a lever, to
draw it back so as to raise the whole mass of earth in front of.
spade at once. This requires great strength ; but by inserting
spade in a slanting direction, and throwing the body slightly frei
at the same time, the mass of earth to be raised will not only be much
less, but the body of the operator will be in a much more convenient
position for raising and turning it; which may thus be done with
perfect ease.

The time for digging should always be chosen, if possible, when the
ground is tolerably dry; not only on account of the danger of taking

>

~.

4 a
STIRRING THE SQ1L. 19

cold by standing on the damp earth, but because the soil, when
damp, adheres to the spade, and is much more difficult to work (as

the gardeners call it,) than when it is dry. The ground in fields,

&c. becomes very hard in dry weather; but this is never the case in
a garden, the soil of which is well pulverized by the constant dig-
ging, forking, hoeing, and raking, it must undergo, to keep the gar-
den tolerably neat. Every lady should be careful, when she has
finished digging, to have her spade dipped in water, and then wiped
dry; after which it should be hung up in some warm dry shed, or
harness room, to keep it free from rust: as nothing lessens the labour
of digging more than having a perfectly smooth and polished spade.
Should the earth adhere to the spade while digging, dipping the
blade in water occasionally, will be found to facilitate the operation.

The purposes for which digging is applied in gardening are: sim-
ple digging for loosening the soil in order to prepare it for a crop;
pointing; burying manure; exposing the soil to the action of the
weather; trenching; ridging; forming pits for planting trees and
shrubs, or for filling with choice soil for sowing seeds; and taking
up plants when they are to be removed.

In simple digging, as well as in most of the other kinds, it is cus-
tomary to divide the bed to be dug, by a garden-line, into two parts:
a trench, or furrow as it is called, is then opened across one of these
divisions or half of the bed, the earth out of whichis thrown up into
aheap. The digging then commences by turning over a breadth of
soil into the furrow, thus made, and so forming a new furrow to be
filled up by the soil turned over from the breadth beyond it; and this
is continued till the operator reaches the end of the first division,
when the furrow is to be filled with the earth taken from the first fur-
row of the second division; after which the digging proceeds regu-
larly as before, till the operator reaches the last furrow, which is
filled with the ridge of earth thrown up when the first furrow was
made. As few ladies are strong enough to throw the earth from the
heap where it was laid from the first furrow to fill the last, the best
Way is to put it into a small wheel-barrow, which may be wheeled
to the place required, and filled and emptied as often as may be found
convenient; or the ground may be divided into narrower strips. It
must also be observed, that as a spadeful of earth taken up obliquely
will be found to loosen the soil to a proper depth, a second or
even a third should be taken from the same place before the operator

42

me |

*

20 ' POINTING.

advances any further along the line: or the whole of each furrow
may first be made shallow, and then deepened by successive diggings
‘before proceeding to the next furrow.

It is obvious that the great art in this kind of digging is to keep
the furrows straight, and not to take up more earth in one place than
in another, so that the surface of the ground, when finished, may be
perfectly even. To keep the furrows straight, the first ought to be
marked out with the rod and line, and every succeeding line should be
frequently and carefully examined. It is more difficult to keep these
lines straight than can be at first sight imagined: and in proportion
as the furrow is allowed to become crooked it will become narrower,
and be in danger of being choked up; or, if kept as wide as before,
the surface of the ground will be rendered uneven, and the last furrow
left without earth enough to fillit up. In digging each furrow also,
care must be taken to carry it quite up to the line of demarcation ;
as, otherwise, what the gardeners call a baulk or piece of firm land

would be left there, and, of course, the bed would neither look well,
nor would the object for which it was dug be fully attained. Great

care must also be taken to keep the surface of the bed even, and this
it is extremely difficult for a novice to do. It is, indeed, very pro-
voking, after watching the ease with which a gardener digs a bed,
and looking at the perfectly smooth and even surface that he leaves, to
find how very hard it is to imitate him; and yet it is essentially neces-
sary to be done, for if there are any irregularities in the surface, the hol-
low places will collect the moisture, and the plants in them will grow
vigorously, while those in the raised places will be speedily dried by
the sun and wind, and will look poor and withered. Practice is cer-
tainly required to render digging easy, but, as the principal points of
keeping the furrows straight, and the surface even, depend on skill
more than strength, the art of digging well may be acquired by any
me who thinks it worth while to take thetrouble. Very little strength
will, indeed, be necessary, if the rule of thrusting in the spade ob-
fiquely, and aiding it by the momentum of the body, be always at-
tended to.

Pointing, as it is called by gardeners, is in fact shallow digging,

and it consists in merely turning over the ground to the depth of two
or three inches. In spring, or in the beginning of summer, when the
sun has only warmed the soil to the depth of a few inches, and when
the seeds to be “ y (as of annual flowers for example) are wante

¥ ;
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. ‘
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#-: BURYING MANURE. ~— 91

to germinate as quickly as possible, pointing is preferable to digging;
because the latter operation would bury the warm soil, and bring
that up to the surface which is still as cold as in winter. Pointing is
also used in stirring the ground among trees and other plants, in or-
der that the spade may not go so deeply into the ground as to injure
their roots.

Burying manure.—There are two ways of digging the ground for
the purpose of burying manure: according to the first method, the
manure is spread evenly over the whole bed, and then the gardener
proceeds to dig as though the manure were in fact a portion of the
surface of the soil; and according to the second method, the manure
having been first brought to the spot and thrown into a heap, is de-
posited, a small portion at a time, at the bottom of each furrow as it
is formed, and the earth from the next furrow thrown over it. In
noth cases, the manure should be buried as speedily as possible; as
if left long exposed in small quantities to the air in hot dry weather,
it loses a great part of its nutritious qualities by evaporation.

___ Digging for the purpose of exposing the soil to the action of the

weather, trenching, and ridging on a large scale, are operations too
laborious to be performed by any one but a gardener’s labourer. To
be done well, the earth in all these cases should be removed in large
spadefuls at a time, and turned over without breaking; on which ac-
count these operations are best performed in moist weather, when the
earth is in an adhesive state. Ridging on a small scale may be use-
ful in a flower garden, when the soil is much infested with insects, or
where there are many weeds. «It is performed by opening a trench,
and throwing up the earth out of it in the form of a ridge; and then
opening another trench, and forming another ridge in the same man-
ner. The whole garden is thus thrown into a series of ridges and
trenches, which should be suffered to remain all the winter, and be
levelled in spring. It is obvious that this mode of ameliorating the
soil can only be practised where the garden is not likely to be visited
during winter, as it destroys all beauty, and has a peculiarly des-
olate and forlorn appearance. It is thus a remedy only to be resort-
ed to in extreme cases; but fortunately there are very few flower
gardens in which the ok is in so bad a state as to require it.

The other kinds of, digging are to form pits for receiving plants,
or for filling with choice soil, and to remove plants. In the first case,
a hole of sufficient size to receive the plant is dug, and the earth

~

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R FORKING—HOEING.
*, ~ . 7

thrown up beside it, to be filled in round the roots of the plant; and
in the second case, the common garden earth is thrown out of a pit
a foot or eighteen inches deep, and about the same in diameter, and
its place supplied by peat, or whatever other kind of earth may be re-
quired. In removing a young tree or shrub, the ground is generally

first dug out on one side, so as to form a small trench, and then the —

spade is driven perpendicularly into the ground, below the depth to
which the roots descend, and the whole mass is raised like a spade-
ful of earth. Small plants are raised by the spade at once without
making any trench; and large trees require all the skill ¢ ssed
gardener. %
Forking.—A broad-pronged garden fork may be defined as an imple-
ment consisting of a number of small sharply pointed spades, unite
a shoulder or hilt, to which is fixed the handle; and forking differs
from digging, principally in its being used merely to stir the soil, and
not to turn it over. In shrubberies, and among perennial herbaceous
plants, which are not to ‘be taken ‘up and replanted, forking is ve
useful; as it loosens the hard dry surface of the soil, and admit

warm air and rain to the roots of the plants. This is very necessa- _ ;

ry, as the earth is a bad conductor of heat; and where the surface of
the soil is become so hard as to exclude the air from the roots of the
plants, the ground in which they grow will be nearly as cold in sum-
mer as in winter. Besides, when the surface of the ground is hard,
the rain, instead of soaking gradually into it, runs off, or evaporates,
without being of any service to the roots. The operation of forking
consists merely in thrusting the fork a little way into the ground by
the 2 application of the foot to the hilt, and then pulling back the handle
as in digging, so as to loosen the earth without raising it. The
ground may thus be roughly pulverized to a considerable depth,
without dividing the roots of the plants; which would have been in-
evitable if the operator had used a spade.

Hocing —There are several different kinds of hoes which are used
for getting up weeds, for loosening the soil, for drawing it up round
the stems of growing plants, and for making a shallow furrow or
drill fer sowing seeds. The different kinds all belong to two great
divisions: viz. the draw hoe and the thrust hoe, and may be seen at
any ironmonger’s shop. , Either kind may be used «for destroying
weeds; as the weeds may either be loosened and lifted out of the
soil by the thrugs hoe, or torn out of it by the draw hoe. eo

.

“

. 2

* -
. HOEING—RAKING. 23
oa be
Draw Hoe. ~

Thrust Hoe.
“te

e
nitite used for pulverizing the soil, or a third kind with two
prongs may be substituted. In all these operations, the thrust hoe
is best adapted for a lady’s use, as requiring the least exertion of
strength, and being most easily managed; but the draw hoe is best
adapted for making a drill or furrow for the reception of seeds, and
also for the last and most important use of hoeing, viz. the drawing

of the earth round the stems of ‘growing plants.
<- operation of hoeing up, though very commonly practised, is

aa

only suitable to some kind of plants, and it is intended to afford ad-

ditional nourishment to those which have tap-roots, by inducing
them to throw out more lateral fibres.

The plants which will bear to be hoed or earthed up, are those that
throw out fibrous roots above the vital knot, like the cabbage tribe,
&c.; or that are annuals with long bushy stems, and very weak and
slender roots like the pea. Ligneous plants should never be earthed
up, to avoid injuring the vital knot, which forms the point of sepa-
ration between the main root and the stem, and which gardeners call
the collar, crown, neck or collet. This part in trees and shrubs
should never be buried ; as if it be injured by moisture so as to cause

- it to rot, or if it be wounded in any way, the plant will die. A de-

ciduous tree may be cut down close above the collar, and it will throw
up fresh shoots, or the roots may all be cut off close below the collar,
and if that part be uninjured fresh roots will form; but if a tree be
cut through at this vital part it never can recover.
» A trowel is another instrument used in stirring the soil, but of
course it can only be employed in boxes of earth in balconies, &e.
Raking is useful in smoothing the soib after digging, and in col-
lecting weeds, stones, &c., and dragging them to one side, where they
ort An iron-toothed rake is generally used for the

. #

#

¥

4 RAKING,

. a wooden one for collecting grass after mowmg. When

it is wished that the teeth of the rake should enter the ground, the
handle should be held low; but if the object be the collection of
weeds, &c., the handle shoal be held high. Dry weather is essen-
tial to raking the ground, as the principal use of the operation is to
-break the clods left by the spade; but raking together grass or weeds
may be performed i in wet weather.

The degree of strength required for raking depends partly upon
the breadth of the head of the rake, and the number of its teeth, but
principally upon the manner of holding it. If the rake be held low,
it is obvious that greater strength will be required to drag it through
the ground than if it is held high, in which case very little labour
will be required to overcome the resistance it will meet with. .

~

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+ 3 i he : oo
og?
CHAPTER II

MANURING THE SOIL AND MAKING HOT-BEDS.

“ ¥
Most persons imagine that manure is all that is wanted to make
a garden fruitful; and thus, if the fruit-trees do not bear, and the
flowers and vegetables do not thrive, manure is considered the uni-
versal panacea. Now, the fact is, that so far from this being the

- case, most small gardens have been manured a great deal too much;

and in many, the surface soil, instead of consisting of rich friable
mould, only presents a soft black shining substance, whi & is the
humic acid from manure saturated with stagnant water. N92 appear-
ance is more common in the gardens of street-houses than this, from
these gardens being originally ill drained, and yet continually wa-
tered; and from their possessors loading them with manure, in the
hope of rendering them fertile.

As it is known to chemists that it is printigpally the humic acid,
and carbonic acid gas, contained in manure, which make that sub-
Stance nourishing to plants; and as these acids must be dissolved m
water before the roots can take them up, it may seem strange that
any solution of them in water, however strong it may be, should be
injurious to vegetation. The fact is, however, that it is the great
quantity of food contained in the water that renders it unwholesome.
When the roots of a plant and their little sponge-like terminations,
are examined in a powerful microscope, it will be clearly seen that
no thick substance can pass through them. Thus water loaded with
gross coarse matter, as it is when saturated with-humic acid, must
be more than the poor spongioles can swallow; and yet, as they are
rk spongelike, their nature prompts them, whenever they find

mois to attempt to take it up, without having the power of dis-
Cc :

ane
oo

* - > 7,
as
: . eis *
> >’.
26 MANURING THE SOIL. _
ea ~
* criminating between what is good for them, and what will be inyuri-
ous. The spongioles thus imbibe urated liquid ; ‘and, loaded

with this improper food, the I a an corzed snake,
become distended, the fine epidermis that covers them is torn asunder,
* » their power of capillary attraction is gone, and they can neither for
the food they have taken up, into the main roots, nor reject the aan
‘» _ mentitious matter sent down to them from the leaves, after the elabo-
ration of the sap. . In this state of things, from the usual circulation
of the fluids being impeded, it is not surprising that the plant should
droop, that its leaves should turn yellow, that its flowers should not
. expand, that its fruit should shrivel and drop off prematurely, and
that in the end it should die; as, in fact, it may be said to expire of
apoplexy, brought on by indigestion.

All soil, to be in a fit state for growing plants, should be suffi-
ciently loose and dry to allow of passing through it intermixed with
air; as water, when in this state, is never more than slightly impreg-
nated with the nutritious juices of the manure through which it has
passed. The spongioles are thus not supplied with more food at a
time than they can properly take up and digest, and a healthy circu-
lation of the fluids is kept up through the whole plant. But, what,
it may be asked, is to be done with a garden, the soil of which has
become black and slimy hike half-rotten peat? The quickest remedy
is covering it with lime, as that combines readily with the humic
acid, and reduces it to a state of comparative dryness: or, if sub-
soil be good, the ground may be trenched, and the surface-soil buried
two spits deep ; but in both cases it will be necessary thoroughly to
drain the garden to prevent a recurrence of the evil.

All the different kinds of soil found on level nd, consist of two
parts, which are called the surface-soil and the sub-soil ; and as the
sub-soil always consists of one of the three primitive earths, so do
these earths always enter, more or less, into the composition of every
sind of surface-soil. The primitive earths are—silex, (which includes
sand and gravel,) clay, and lime, which includes also chalk; and
most sub-soils consist of a solid bed or rock of one or other of these
materials, probably in nearly the same state as it was left by the
deluge. The surface-soils, on the contrary, are of comparatively
recent date; and they have been slowly formed by the gradual
crumbling of the sub-soil, and its intermixture with decayed animal
and vegetable matter, and with other soils which may have :

had

“"

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Es
Se

*
a -
té

‘ ;
i ‘THE sot, - 27

e
cidentally washed down upon, or purposely brought to it. In fields, &
and uncultivated place the -soil is almost as hard, and as
coarse in its s texture, as the sub soil on which it rests; but in gardens
which have been long in cultivation, the soles sail becomes so

_ thoroughly pulverized by frequent diggings, and so mixed with the ®
» Manure and decayed vegetables which have been added to it from +

time to time, that it is changed imto the soft, light, fine, powdery
substance, called garden-mould. If the sub-soil be naturally porous
or well drained, this mould, however rich it may be made by the
addition of decayed vegetable matter or animal manure, will always
continue friable; and as long as it does so, it will be fitfor the
growth of plants: but if no vent be allowed for the escape of the wa-
ter, and it be continually enriched with manure, it will be changed
in time into the black slimy substance that has gbeem already
described. z

Surface-soil is called peat-earth when it is composed of decayed
vegetable matter, which has become partially decayed by time and
immersion in water, but whichis not thoroughly decomposed. As
this kind of earth cannot exist without abundance of stagnant mois-
ture, it is almost always found on a clayey sub-soil, which prevents
the water which falls upon it from escaping. Peat-earth has a
spongy elastic feeling when trodden upon, arising from the quantity
of water that it holds, and it can only be rendered fit for cultivation
by draining ; or depriving it in some other manner of its superabun-
dant moisture. In its elastic state it is what is called in Scotland a
moss, and in England a peat-bog. Should the water, instead of being
afforded a vent by drainage, be suffered to accumulate for many
years, till it completely liquefies the peat, the soil becomes what is
called a morass, or quagmire; and it can no longer be trodden on, as
it will engulf any substance resting upon it. A still further accumu- ‘
lation of water will, in the course of years, cause the bog to burst its
bounds, and overflow the surrounding country; as the Solway-
moss did many years ago, and as bogs in Ireland have done frequent-
ly. An excess of vegetable matter on a sandy or gravelly sub-soil,
differs from the common black-peat in retaining less water; and in
being mixed with a portion of the primitive earth, which, from its
loose texture, becomes easily detached from the sub-soil and mixes
with the surface-soil; which, when in this state, is called heath
mould... . “

i +

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*

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af MANURING THE mae

The most priimanse soils are those in sehich several ingredients
“are combined in proper proportions; and if any of the primitive
earths preponderates, the soil becomes compfatenvehy unfertile..
_ Thus the best soil for gardening purposes is generally allowed to be
-_ ~* Ps calcareous loam on a chalky sub-soil; and this sort of soil is com-

posed of nearly equal parts of lime, ait and clay, enriched by de-

positions of decayed animal and vegetable matter. The next best
soil is a sandy loam, composed of clay and sand, enriched by de-
cayed animal and vegetable substances, and resting on a sandy or
gravelly sub-soil. The worst soils are black peat, and loose sand.

A poor sandy soil is necessarily a nearly barren one; because it will
not retain either water, or the nutritious juices from manure, long

enough to afford nourishment to the plants grown upon it; and it is

obvious that a soil of this kind can only be rendered fertile by mix-

ing it with clay, which would change it into a sandy loam.

A stiff clay is unfertile from its attracting moisture and retaining
it round the roots of the plants till they become swollen and un-
healthy. It also retards the decomposition of manure, and obstructs
the progress of the roots, which waste their strength in the efforts
they make to penetrate, or twine round, its adhesive clods. Soils of
this description are improved by a mixture of sand, gravel, road grit,
or any substance which tends to separate the particles of the clay,
and to render it light and friable.

Chalky soils succeed better unmixed, than any of the other kinds;

| & but chalk being a carbonate of lime, can hardly be called a primitive

soil. The chalk, however, from its whiteness, is colder than any

whe other soil; as it does not absorb, but reflects back the rays of the

sun. Rain also penetrates into it very slowly, ar d not to any great

depth. Chalk mixed with sand forms a kind of calcareous loam ad-

* mirably adapted for growing vegetabies; and chalky soils are pecu-
liarly susceptible of improvement from manure.

Black peat, though it abounds in vegetable matter, 1s not, in its
natural state, favourable for the growth of plants; as it abounds in
tannin, which prevents the decomposition of the vegetable fibre.
Thus peat bogs can only be rendered fertile by the addition of linie,

ws or some other material, which will absorb or neutralise the tannin
Ais with which they are imbued, and thus permit the vegetable sub-

stances which they contain, to decompose, so as to form nutritive
we for the growing plants. This, however, is only the case with

a > ; a.

, Mee + *

MANURES. * es 2

the black peat, for heath mot te or sandy peat, which i is what is aa
erally called earth i in ¢ s, is very useful, even in its natural
state, for the growth of all hair-rooted plants, such as the Cape

Heaths; the Rhododendrons, and other American plants; and all

the eaten shrubs. The reason of this difference is, that the
mixture of sand with the peat prevents its retention of water; and it
is only the retention of water around the vegetable fibre which pre-
vents its decomposition. Thus where natural heath mould cannot
be procured, mixing the black peat with fine white sand has the
effect of rendering it suitable for the growth of hair-rooted plants.

Manures.—The kinds of manure generally used in gardens are
horse or cow dung, and decayed vegetable matters; the manure in
both cases being suffered to lie in a heap to rot before it is spread on
the ground, in order that its component parts may be decomposed
by fermentation, and thus brought into a fit state to afford food to
the plants. Old hot-beds or mushroom beds are thus well adapted
for manuring a garden; and when fresh stable-dung is employed

~for that purpose, it is generally thrown into a heap, and turned over
several times till the fermentation has abated, before it is dug into
the ground. As, however, a great quantity of the manure is dissolved
and washed away by the rain which falls upon the heap, while it is
undergoing the process of fermentation, and as it seems a great pity
that so much of the nutritious properties of the manure should be
lost, a quantity of earth should always be laid round the dung-hill to
imbibe the liquid that runs from it, and this earth will be found very
nearly as valuable for manuring the beds of a garden, as the manure
itself.

The properties of horse and cow dung, considered as manures, vary
exceedingly; the former abounding in nitrogen, in which the latter
is nearly deficient. All manures abounding in nitrogen are.
by gardeners hot; because the gases they evolve, if too strong,
blacken the rah as though they had been exposed to the action of
fire; and on the contrary, all the manures which do not evolve
gases producing this effect, are termed by gardeners cold.

The modes of applying manure differ according to the difference of
the soils. For sandy loams, thoroughly rotten dung, either from an
old hot-bed, or from a dung-hill sufficiently decayed to be cut easily
with the spade, should be laid on the surface of the soil, and dug in.
in very poor sandy soils, rotten maps or earth saturated with

os c* :
s

by

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BS os

24 i
30 ns MANURES. *

s

liquid manure from a dung-hill, should be laid on the surface of the
soil, and not dug in: the manure being covered, if hot dry weather

i, )
be expected, with leaves, straw, or the branches of trees cut off in

- pruning, or occasionally sprinkled with water. Soils consisting of

poor, and partly loose sand, are frequently improved in the South of

"France and Italy, by sowing them with the seeds of the common

white lupine, and then, when the plants have come up and are
grown about a foot high, ploughing or digging them into the soil.
The green succulent stems of the lupines, when thus buried in the soil,
supply it with moisture during the progress of their decay ; and thus
nourishment is afforded to the corn, which is immediately afterwards
sown upon the soil for a‘crop. Clayey soils should have unferment-
ed manure mixed with undecayed straw laid in the bottom of the
furrows made in digging; that the process of fermentation, and the
remains of the straw may operate in keeping the particles of the soil
open, or, in other words, in preventing their too close adhesion.
Lime as a manure can very seldom be employed advantageously in.
gardens and pleasure grounds; only indeed where there is a super-
abundance of humic acid, as described in page 26. When ap-
plied to grass, as it frequently is, it has been found by repeated

_ experiments to sink down through the soil, without mixing with it,

and to form a distinct stratum an inch or two below the surface of
the soil. This may be seen in several places where the ground has
been cut through for railroads ; particularly in the Midland counties
railroad, near Leicester, where the lime which has been applied to
the grass land, forms a narrow white line, very conspicuous from the
red sandstone of the district. Lime should, therefore, be always well
mixed with the soil when used as a manures and when burnt, it
should be used alone, as it will destroy and waste all the animal
manure applied with it. As carbonate of lime, or chalk, however,
(in which state only it can properly be called a soil,) animal manure
may be applied to it with great advantage, and it will retain its effi-
cacy longer than with any other soil. Rotten manure may be dug
into chalk, with the certainty that it will be preserved from further
decay for a very long time, and that every shower will work a small
portion of its fertilizing juices out of it, and carry them into the soil,
where they will be thus presented to the plants in the best possible
state for affording wholesome food.

Peat bogs may be improved by the addition of quick-lime as a

- ¥ 2»

we

t»

- ~~ *
MANURES. & 31

manure, which will absorb the superabundant moisture which they
contain, and will thus permit their vegetable fibre to decompose

. Peat, when saturated with water, abounds in tannin; and this sub-

stance preserves both vegetable and animal matter frora decomposi-
tion. Thus, as no growing plant can absorb nutriment from vegeta-
ble matter, unless it be first thoroughly decomposed ; peat, though
abounding in the elements necessary for the food of plants, can af-
ford them no nourishment till it has been deprived of its superfluous
moisture. Heath mould does not require any substance to absorb
its moisture, as the sand with which it is mixed answers that pur-
pose; and from the quantity of vegetable matter that it contains
naturally, it does not require any manure, more than what is fur-
nished by the decaying leaves of the plants grown in it.

Nearly the same rules apply to decaying leaves and other sub-
stances used as manure, as to stable-dung. They may be buried in
an undecayed state in clayey soil, when the object is to separate the
adhesive pzeticles of the clay by the process of fermentation; but
their component parts should be separated by fermentation before
they are applied as a manure to growing plants. Vegetable mould,
(that is, leaves thoroughly decayed and mixed with a little rich loam,)
is admirably adapted for manuring the finer kinds of flowers, and
plants in pots. There are many other kinds of manure used in gar-
dens occasionally ; such as the dung of pigs, rabbits and poultry,
grass mown from lawns, parings of leather, horn shavings, bones,
the sweeping of streets, the emptying of privies, cess-pools, and
sewers, the clipping of hedges and pruning of trees, weeds, the re-
fuse of vegetables, pea-halm, &c. All these should be fermented and
applied in the same manner as the common kinds of manure.

The following is a summary of the general rules to be observed in ma-
nuring and improving soils :—Never to use animal manure and quick-

lime together, as the one will destroy the other. To use lime asa

manure only in very moist peaty soils, or in soils which have been
injured by want of drainage, and a superabundance of manure. To
take care that lime, when applied, is mixed intimately with the soil,
and not laid on the surface to be washed in by kd rain. Toremem-
ber that rotten manure is considered to give solidity; and that unfer-
mented manure, buried in trenching, has a tendency to lighten the
soil. To dilute liquid manure from a dung-hill with water, before
applying it to growing plants; as otherwise, from the quantity of

a
-
_ *
uae
¥
»

te

* «
* ’ . -
Sate ™, FORMATION OF HOT-BEDs.
*

ammonia that it contains it will be apt to burnthem. To remember
that the manure of cows and all animals that chew the cud, is cold
and suited to a light soil; and that the manure of horses, pigs, and
poultry is hot and suited to a firm soil: also that all manure, when
new, may be considered as hot, from the heat that will be engendered
during the process of fermentation ; and that when well rotten, it be-
comes cold in its nature, and should be treated aecordingly. To re-

~ member that all mixed soils are more fertile than soils consisting only

of one of the three primitive earths, viz., lime, sand, or clay; and
never to forget that too much manure is quite as injurious to plants
as too little. 7m

Formation of hot-beds—Though nearly all the kinds of manure
which have been enumerated may be used occasionally for hot-beds,
the only materials in common use in gardens are stable manure,
dead leaves, and tan. The first of these, which is by far the most
general, consists partly of horse-dung, and partly of what gardeners
call long litter, that is, straw moistened and discoloured, but not de-
cayed. ‘The manure is generally in this state when it is purchased,
or taken from the stable, for the purpose of making a hot-bed.

The necessary quantity of manure is procured, at the rate of one
cart load, or from twelve to fifteen large wheel-barrowfuls, to every
light, (as the gardeners call the sashes of the frames,) each light
being about three feet wide ; and this manure is laid in a heap to fer-
ment. In about a week the manure should be turned over with a
dung-fork, and well shaken together; this operation being repeated
two or three, or more times, at intervals of two or three days, till the
whole mass is become of one colour, and the straws are sufficiently
decomposed to be torn to pieces with the fork.

The size of the hot-bed must depend principally on the size of the
frame which is to cover it; observing that the bed must be from six
inches to a foot wider than the frame every way. ‘The manure must
then be spread in layers, each layer being beaten down with the
back of the fork, till the bed is about three feet and a half high. The
surface of the ground on which the hot-bed is built, is generally raised
about six inches above the general surface of the garden; and it is

advisable to lay some earth round the bottom of the bed, nearly a

foot wide, that it may receive the juices of the manure that will drain
from the bed. As soon as the bed is made, the frame is put on and
the sashes kept quite close, till a steam appears upon the glass, when

. ak

FORMATION OF HOT-BEDS. 33
@ * ‘’
the bed is considered in a fit state to be covered three or four inches
deep with mould; observing, if the bed has settled unequally, to leve.
the surface of the manure before covering it with earth. The seeds
to be raised may either be sown in this earth, or in pots to be plunged
in it. ,

The proper average heat for a hot-bed intended to raise flower
seeds, or to grow cucumbers, is 60°: but melons require a heat of
65° to grow in, and 75° to ripen their fruit. This heat should be
taken in a morning, and does not include that of the sun in the mid-
dle of the day. When the hese bed becomes so great as to be
in danger of injuring the plants, the obvious remedy is to give air by
raising the glasses; and if this be not sufficient, the general heat of
the bed must be lowered by making excavations in the dung from
the sides, so as to reach nearly to the middle of the bed, and filling
up these excavations with cold dung which has already undergone
fermentation, or with leaves, turf, or any other similar material which
will receive heat, but not increase it. When the heat of the bed falls
down to 48° or lower, it should be raised, by applying on the outside
fresh coatings of dung, grass, or leaves, which are called linings.

When hot-beds are made of spent tanner’s bark or decayed leaves,
a kind of box or pit must be formed of bricks or boards, or even of
layers of turf, or clay, and the tan or leaves filled’ in so as to make a
bed. Where neatness is an object, this kind of bed is preferable to
any other; but a common hot-bed of stable manure may be made to
look neat by thatching the outside with straw, or covering it with
bast mats, pegged down to keep them close to the bed.

"

CHAPTER III.

SOWING SEEDS~—PLANTING BULBS AND TUBERS——TRANSs
PLANTING AND WATERING.

Sowing Seeds.—The principal points to be attended to in sowing
seeds are, first, to prepare the ground so that the young and tender
roots thrown out by the seeds may easily penetrate into it; secondly,
to fix the seeds firmly in the soil; thirdly, to cover them, so as to ex-
clude the light, which impedes vegetation, and to preserve a suffi-
ciency of moisture round them to encourage it; and, fourthly, not to
bury them so deeply as either to deprive them of the beneficial influ-
ence of the air, or to throw any unnecessary impediments in the way
of their ascending shoots.

The preparation of the soil has been already described in the
chapter on digging, and the reasons why it is necessary have
been there given; but why seeds should be firmly imbedded in
it, seems to require explanation. It is well known that gar-
deners, before they either sow a bed in the kitchen-garden, or a
patch of flower-seeds in the flower-garden, generally ‘firm the
ground,” as they cail it, by beating it well with the back of the spade,
or pressing it with the saucer of a flower-pot; and there can be no
doubt that this is done in order that the seeds may be firmly im-
bedded in the soil. When lawns are sown with grass-seeds also, the
seeds are frequently rolled in, evidently for the same purpose. The
only question, therefore, is, why is this necessary? and the answer
appears to be, that a degree of permanence and stability is essential

to enable nature to accommodate the plant to the situation in which

it is placed. "When there is this degree of permanence and stability,
it is astonishing to observe the efforts that plants will make to pro-
vide for their wants; but without it, seeds will not even vegetate

SOWING SEEDs. 35

T'hus we often see large trees springing from crevices in apparently
bare rocks; while not even a blade of grass will grow among the
moving sands of a desert.

The reasons for the second and third points of covering the seeds,
and yet not covering them too deeply, appear more obvious; ana
yet they also require a little explanation. The seeds are covered te
keep them in darkness, and to retain round them a proper quantity
of moisture ; not only to make them swell and begin to vegetate, but
to enable the roots to perform their proper functions; since, if ex-
posed to the air, they would become dry and withered, and lose the
power of contracting and dilating, which is essential to enable them
to imbibe and digest their food. Burying the seeds too deeply is
obviously injurious in impeding the progress of the young shoot to
the light; and in placing it in an unnatural position. When a seed
vegetates too far below the surface, a part of the stem of the plant
must be buried; and this part not being intended to remain under-
ground, is not protected from the dangers it is likely to meet with
there. It is thus peculiarly liable to be assailed by slugs and all
kinds of insects, and to become rotten by damp, or withered by heat.
It is also very possible to bury a seed so deeply as to prevent it from
vegetating atall. The ground has more of both warmth and moisture
near the surface than at a great depth, as it is warmed by the rays of
the sun, and moistened hy the rain; but besides this, seeds will not
vegetate, even when they are amply supplied with heat and mois-
ture, if they are excluded from the influence of the air. Every ripe
seed in a dry state is a concentration of carbon, which, when dis-
solved by moisture, and its particles set in motion by heat, is in a fit
state to combine with the oxygen in the atmosphere, and thus to
form the carbonic acid gas which is the nourishment of the expand-
ing plant. For this reason, seeds and newly sprung-up plants do
not want to be supplied with manure, and air is much more
essential to them: they have enough carbon in their cotyledons,
or in the albumen contained in the seed, and they only want
oxygen to combine with it, to enable them to develope their other
leaves; and this is the reason why young plants, raised on a hot-

bed, are always given air, or they become yellow and withered.

Light absorbs the oxygen from plants, and occasions a deposition of
the carbon. Thus seeds and seedlings do not require much light;
it is indeed injurious to them, as it undoes in some degree phat the

>

36 PLANTING BUiBS AND TUBERS,

air nas been doing for them: but young plants, when they hinvete
panded two or three pairs of leaves, and when the stock of carbon
contained in their cotyledons, or in their seeds, is exhausted, require
light to enable them to elaborate their sap, without which the pro-
cess of vegetation could not go on. Abundance of light also is fa-
vourable to the development of flowers and the ripening of seeds; as
it aids the concentration of carbon, which they require to make them
fertile. The curious fact that seeds, though abundantly supplied
with warmth and moisture, will not vegetate without the assistance
of the air, was lately verified in Italy; where the Po, having over-
flowed its banks near Mantua, deposited a great quantity of mud on
some meadows; and from this mud sprang up a plentiful crop of
black poplars, no doubt from seeds that had fallen into the river from
arow of trees of that kind, which had formerly grown on its banks,
but which had been cut down many years previously. Another in-
stance occurred in the case of some raspberry seeds found in the
body of an ancient Briton discovered in a tumulus in Dorsetshire.
Some of these seeds were sown in the London Horticultural Socie-
ty’s Garden at Turnham Green, where they vegetated, and the plants
produced from them are still (1840) growing. Numerous other
nearly similar instances will be found in Hooker’s Botanical Mis-
cellany, Lindley’s Theory of Horticulture, Jesse’s Gleanings, and nu-
merous other works. Steeping seeds in oxalic acid, &c. to make
them vegetate, is efficacious; as there is a speedier combination
between the carbon in the seeds, and the oxygen in the acid, than
can be effected by the ordinary agency of the air in parting with its
oxygen to them. a
Planting bulbs and tubers bears considerable analogy to sowing
seeds. ‘The -ulb or tuber may indeed be considered as only a seed
of larger growth, since it requires the combined influence of air,
warmth, and moisture to make it vegetate, and then it throws out a
stem, leaves, and roots like a seed. There is, however, one impor-
tant difference between them; the seed expends its accumulated
stock of carbon in giving hirth to the root, stem, and leaves, after
which it withers away and disappears ; while the bulb or tuber con-
tinues to exist during the whole life of the plant, and appears to con-’
tain a reservoir of carbon, which it only parts with slowly, and as
circumstances may require. Though bulbs and tubers have here

_ been mentioned as almost synonymous, modern botanists make sev-

"

TRANSPLANTING, 37

or distinctions between them. The tunicated bulbs, such as those of
the hyacinth and the onion, and the squamose bulbs, such as those of
the lily, they consider to be underground buds; while tubers, such as
those of the dahlia, and the potatoe, and solid bulbs or corms, such
as those of the crocus, they regard as underground stems.

These distinctions, however, though they may be interesting to
tke botanist and vegetable physiologist, are of little or no use in prac-
tice ; the practical gardener treating bulbs and tubers exactly alike,
and planting them as he would sow a seed: that is to say, he fixes
them firmly in the ground, and covers them, but not se deeply as to
exclude the air. In preparing a bed for hyacinths or other tunicated
bulbs, it is necessary to pulverize the soil to a much greater depth
than for ordinary seeds; as the true roots of the hyacinth descend
perpendicularly to a considerable depth, as may be seen when these
plants are grown in glasses. The very circumstance of growing
hyacinths in glasses, where they vegetate and send down their roots
exposed to the full influence of the light, appears contrary to
usual effects of light on vegetation; and indeed the plants are said
generally to thrive best, when the glasses are kept in the dark till the
roots are half grown. However this may be, it is quite certain that
hyacinths in glasses should never be kept in darkness after their
leaves have begun to expand; as, if there be not abundance of light
to occasion rapid evaporation from the leaves, the plants will soon
become surcharged with moisture from the quantity constantly sup-
plied to their roots, and the leaves will turn yellow, and look flaccid,
and unhealthy, while the flowers will be stunted, or will fall off with-
out expanding.

Transplanting —The points to be attended to in transplanting,
are—care in taking up, to avoid injuring the spongioles of the roots;
planting firmly, to enable the plant to take a secure hold of the soil;
shading, to prevent the evaporation from the leaves from being great-
er than the plant in its enfeebled state can support; and watering,
that it may be abundantly supplied with food in its new abode.
The first point is to avoid injuring the roots, and it is only necessa-
ry to consider the construction and uses of these most important

organs to perceive how impossible it is for the plant to thrive,

unless they are in a perfectly healthy state. Roots generally consist
of two paris; the main roots, which are intended to act as grappling
irons to enable the plants to take a firm hold of the ground, and the

D Sul

$8 TRANSPLANTING. «

fibrous roots, which are intended to supply the plant with nourish-
ment. These fibrous roots are most liable to receive injury from
transplanting, as they are covered with a very fine cellular integu-
ment, so delicate in its texture as to be very easily bruised; and they
each terminate in a number of small pores of extraordinary delicacy
and susceptibility, which act as little sponges to imbibe moisture for
the use of the plant. It is well known that these spongioles are the
only means which the plant possesses of imbibing food, and that if
they should be all cut off, the plant must provide itself with others,
or perish for want of nourishment. These spongioles are exactly
of the nature of a sponge; they expand at the approach of moisture,
and when surcharged with it, they contract, and thus force it into the
fibrous roots, the cellular integument of which dilates to receive it ;
hence the moisture is forced, (by capillary attraction, as it is sup-
posed,) into the main roots, and thence into the stem and branches
oishe plant ; circulating like the blood, and, after it has been elabo-
oe and turned into sap in the leaves, as the blood is changed in
its nature in the lungs, dispensing nourishment to every part as it
goes along.
The roots have no pores but those forming the spongioles; and
only the fibrous roots appear to possess the power of alternate dila-
tion and contraction, which power evidently depends on their cellular
tissue being in an entire and healthy state. Thus, it is quite evident
that if the spongiole of any fibril be crushed, or even the cellular tis-
sue injured, it can no longer act as a mouth and throat to convey
food to the plant. When this is the case, the injured part should be
instantly removed ; as its elasticity can never be restored, and it is
much better for the plant to be forced to throw out a new fibril, than
to be obliged to carry on its circulation weakly and imperfectly with
a diseased one. Whenever a plant is taken up for transplanting, its
roots should therefore be carefully examined, and all their injured
parts cut off, before it is replaced in the ground. Deciduous plants,
and particularly trees and shrubs, are generally transplanted when
they are without their leaves ; because at that season they are in no
danger of suffering from the effects of evaporation.
Shading is necessary after transplanting any plant that retains its
leaves ; as the evaporation from the leaves, if exposed to the full ac-
tion of the light, would be greater than the plant could support with a
diminished number of spongioles. If it were possible to transplant

TRANSPLANTING. 39

without injuring the fibrils, and if the plant were immediately sup-
plied with plenty of water, shading would not be required ; and, in-
deed, when plants are turned out of a pot into the open garden
without breaking the ball of earth round their roots, they are never
shaded. The reason for this is, that as long as a plant remains where
it was first sown, and under favourable circumstances, the evapora-
tion from its leaves is exactly adapted to its powers of absorbing
moisture ; it is therefore evident, that if, by any chance, the number
of its mouths be diminished, the evaporation from its leaves should
be checked also, till the means of supplying a more abundant evapo-
ration are restored.

The useof watering a transplanted plant, is as obvious as that of
shading. It is simply to supply the spongioles with an abundance
of food, that the increased quantity imbibed by each, may, in some
degree, supply their diminished number.

All plants will not bear transplanting, and those that have tap-roots.
such as the carrot, are peculiarly unfitted for it. When plants —

tap-roots are transplanted, it should be into very light soil, and wha
eis called a puddle should be made to receive them. To do this, a
hole or pit should be formed, deeper than the root of the plant, and
into this pit water should be poured and earth thrown in and stirred,
so as to half-fill it with mud. The tap-rooted plant should then be
plunged into the mud, shaking it a little so as to let the mud pene-
trate among its fibrous roots, and the pit should be then filled in with
light soil. The plant must afterwards be shaded longer than is usual
with other plants; and when water ‘s given, it should be poured
down nearer to the main root than in other cases, as the lateral fi-
brous roots never spread far from it. Plants with spreading roots,
when transplanted, should have the pit intended to receive them, made
shallow, but very wide in its diameter; so that the roots may be
spread out in it to their fullest extent, except those that appear at all
bruised or injured, which, as before directed, should be cut off with
a sharp knife.

It isa general rule, in transplanting, never to bury the collar of a
plant; though this rule has some exceptions in the case of annuals.
Some of these, such as balsams, send out roots from the stem above
the collar; and these plants are always very much improved by trans-
planting. Others, the fibrous roots of which are long and descend-
ing, such as hyacinths, bear transplanting very ill, and when it is ab-

rs

i%

40 TRANSPLANTING.

solutely necessary to remove them, it should be done with an mstru-
ment called atransplanter; which may be purchased in any
ironmonger’s shop, and the use of which is to take up a
sufficient quantity of earth with the plant to remove it with-
out disturbing the roots.

The uses of transplanting are various. When seeds are
sown, and the young plants from them begin to make their
appearance, they will generally be found to bemuch too thick;
and they will require thinning, either by drawing some of
them out and throwing them away, or by removing them to
another bed bytransplanting. This, in the case of annuals,
is called by the gardeners pricking out. The young plants
are taken up with a small trowel, and replaced in a hole

made for them, and the earth pressed round them, with the same
trowel: the only care necessary, being to make them firm at the root,
and yet to avoid injuring the tender spongioles. Gardeners do this
with a dibber, which they hold in the right hand, and after putting
in the young plant with the left hand, they press the earth round it
with the dibber in a manner that I never could manage to imitate. bi
have found the trowel, however, do equally well, though it takes up
rather more time.

Another use of transplanting is to remove trees and shrubs from
the nursery to where they are permanently to remain. To enable
this to be done with safety, the trees and shrubs in commercial nurse-
ries are prepared by being always removed every year, or every other
year, whether they are sold or not. The effect of these frequent re-
moyals is to keep the roots short, and yet provided with numerous
spongioles; for as they are always pruned, or as the gardeners call
it, “cut in,” on every removal, and as the effect of pruning is to in-
duce the roots pruned to send out two short fibrous roots armed with
spongioles, in the place of every one cut off, the roots, though con-
fined to a small space, become abundant. ‘The reverse of this is the
case, when plants are left in a natural state. It has been found, from
experience, that plants imbibe more food than they absolutely require

“as nourishment from the soil, and that they eject part of it; also that
their roots will not re-imbibe this excrementitious matter, but are
continually in search of fresh soil. To provide for this the fibrous
roots are possessed of an extraordinary power of elongating them

TRANSPLANTING, ’ 41

selves at their extremities; and thus the roots of even a small plant,
left to nature, will be found to extend to a great distance on every
side. It is obvious that this elongation of the roots must greatly in-
crease the difficulties attending transplanting. Where the roots ex-
tend to a distance from the tree, a greater extent of ground has to be
disturbed, both to take up the plant, and to make a pit for replanting
it; the risk of injuring the fibrous roots is increased ; and, as nearly
all the spongioles will require to be cut off, from the great length
of the roots, and consequent great difficulty which will attend
taking them up entire, the plant will be nearly famished before new
spongioles can be formed to supply it with food. All these dangers
are avoided by the nursery system of transplanting; while the in-
convenience of confining the roots to so small a space is obviated,
by placing the plant, every time it is transplanted, in fresh soil.

It is customary, when trees or shrubs are transplanted to the places
where they are permanently to remain, either to make a puddle for
them, or to fix them, as it is called, with water; the object, in both
cases, being to supply the plant with abundance of food in its new
situation. Care is taken, also, to make the roots firm in the soil, and
to let the earth penetrate through all their interstices. To attain these
ends, one gardener generally holds the tree and gently shakes it,
while another is shovelling in the earth among its roots: but this
mode has the disadvantage of sometimes occasioning the roots to be-
come matted. When the tree is to be fixed with water, after a little
earth has been shovelled in over the roots, water is applied by pour-
ing it from a watering-pot, held as high as a man can raise it; the
watering-pot used being large, and with a wide spout, the rose of
which must be taken off. More earth is then shovelled in, and water
applied again. This mode of planting has the great advantage of
rendering the tree firm, without staking, or treading the earth down
round it, as is usually done. Other gardeners spread the roots out
carefully at the bottom of the hole or pit made to receive them, and
then fill in the earth. In all cases, the ground is either made firm
with water, or trodden down or beaten flat with the spade after plant-
ing, so as to fix the roots firmly in the soil, for the same reasons as
nearly a similar plan is adopted in sowing seeds. Newly transplant-
ed trees are frequently staked, but this is not essential if the roots are
made firm, and indeed the tree is generally found to do best when the
read is left at liberty to be gently agitated by the wind.

DY

42 TRANSPLANTING.

It is a great point, in all cases of transplanting, to preserve the
epidermis or cellular integument of the fibrous roots and spongioles
in a flexible state ; and for this reason, the greatest care is taken to
keep them moist. This is the end in view in puddling or fixing by
water in transplanting; and many planters always dip the roots of
trees and shrubs in water before replanting. When a tree or shrub
is taken up that is to be conveyed any distance, the roots should be
wrapped up as soon as it is taken out of the ground, in wet moss,
and covered with bast matting; and where moss cannot be procured,
they should be dipped in very wet mud, and then matted up. Cab-
bage-plants are frequently preserved in this manner; and are con-
veyed, without any other covering to their roots than a cake of mud,
to a considerable distance. In all cases where plants are taken up
long before they are replanted, their roots should be kept moist by
opening a trench, and laying the plants along it, and then covering
their roots with earth. This gardeners call laying plants in by the
heels. Where this cannot be done, and the plants are kept long out
of the ground, their roots should be examined, and moistened from
time to time; and before replanting they should be laid in water for
some hours, and afterwards carefully examined, and the withered
and decayed parts cut off.

In removing large trees, care is taken to prepare the roots by cutting
a trench round the tree for a year or two before removal, and pruning
off all the roots that project into it. This is to answer the same pur-
pose as transplanting young trees in a nursery ; while the bad effects
of eontracting the range of the roots is counteracted, by filling the
trench with rich fresh earth. The removal is also conducted with
much care; and either a large ball of earth is removed with the tree,
or the roots are kept moist, and spread out carefully at full length,
when the tree is replanted. Some planters, before removing trees,
mark which side stood to the south, in order to replant them with the
same side turned towards the sun; and this is sometimes done with
young trees from a nursery. The reason is, that the tree having
generally largest branches, and being always most flourishing, on the
side exposed to the sun, it is thought that its vegetation might be
checked, were a different side presented to that luminary, by the ef-
forts it must make to accommodate itself to its new situation. On
the other hand, however, it may be urged that changing the position
of the plant, particularly while it is young, will be beneficial in pre-

WATERING, 43

venting it from taking any particular bent, and in promoting the
equal distribution of sap through all the branches.

Watering is a most essential branch of culture. It has been al-
ready fully explained that the seed cannot vegetate, and the plant
cannot grow without water. Carbon, and all the other substances
that form the food of plants, must be dissolved in water to enable the
spongioles to take them up; and the spongioles themselves, unless
they are kept moist, will soon lose their power of absorption. No-
thing indeed can be more evident, even to a common observer, than
the necessity that plants feel for water; if a mimulus or a pelargo-
nium in a pot, for example, hang its head and droop its leaves, what
an extraordinary and rapid effect is produced by giving it water! In
an almost incredibly short time its leaves become firm, and its stem
erect: and the plant is not only preserved from death, but restored
to full health and beauty.

Watering appears an extremely simple operation, yet nevertheless
there are several points relating to it that it is necessary to attend to.
One of these is, never to saturate the soil. “Water, to be in the best
state for being taken up by the plants, should be kept in detached
globules by the admixture of air; and it should be only slightly im-
pregnated with nourishing matter from decaying animal or vegetable
substances: for, as already observed, when fully saturated with
nourishment, it becomes unfit for the food of plants. Nothing can
be more admirably and wonderfully adapted for supplying plants
properly with water than rain. In falling through the atmosphere,
it is thoroughly mixed with the air; and in sinking into the soil it
becomes slightly impregnated with nutritious qualities, which it is

thus enabled to convey, in the most beneficial manner, to the plants.

It is a very common mistake, in watering, to pour the water down
close to the stem of the plant. This is Reeds in every respect.
Water, when poured profusely on the collar of the plant, which is
the point of junction between the root and the stem, is likely to rot,
or otherwise seriously injure that vital part; while the spongioles,
which alone can absorb the water, so as to benefit the plant, being
at the extremity of the roots, are always as far removed from the
stem as the nature of the plant will allow. Thus, the distance from
the stem at which water should be given varies in different plants.
In those that have tap-roots, such as the carrot, and many other culi-
nary vegetables, the lateral fibrous roots are short, and the spongioles

44 WATERING. *

are comparatively near the stem; but in trees, and most plants hav-
ing spreading roots, the spongioles are generally as far distant from
the stem as the extremity of the branches; and the water, to be effi-
cacious, should be given there. ;

The quantity of water to be given varies, not only according to the
nature of the plant, but to the state of its growth. In spring, when
the sap first begins to be in motion, and the young plant is every
day unfolding fresh leaves or blossoms, it requires abundance of
water; as it does when in flower, or when the fruit is swelling. In
autumn, on the contrary, when the fruit is ripening, and in winter,
when the plantis in a state of perfect rest, very little water is neces-
sary, and much is positively injurious, as being likely either to ex-
cite a morbid and unnatural action in the vessels, or even to bring
on rottenness and decay. Water is necessary for seeds to induce
them to germinate ; but much of it is very injurious to young plants
when they first come up, as it unsettles their roots, and almost
washes them away. ‘The roots, also, are at first too weak to imbibe
water; and the plants feed on the nourishment contained in the co-
tyledons, or in the albumen of the seeds. It is when the second pair
of leaves has opened that water is required, though it should at first
be given sparingly. When the plant begins to grow vigorously, it
requires more food; and if it be then kept too short of nourishment,
it becomes stunted in its growth. ‘The quantity of water requisite
also depends on the kind of leaves that the plant unfolds. A plant
with large broad leaves, like the tobacco, requires twice as much
water as a plant with small pinnate leaves, like an acacia. Plants
exposed to a strong light, also, require more than plants grown in
the shade. .

The time for watering plants varies according to the season. in
spring and autumn it is best to water plants in themorning. But in
summer, the usual time is the evening; while in winter, the very lit-
tle that is required should be given in the middle of the day. Many
persons object to watering their plants when the sun is upon them;
but this is not at all injurious, so long as the water is not too cold, and
is only given to the roots. Watering the leaves when the sun is
upon them will make them blister, and become covered with pale
brown spots wherever the water has fallen. It is much better to wa-
ter plants during sunshine, than to suffer them to become too dry; as
when the spongioles are once withered, no art can restore them.

- a

se

ati »

cs WATERING. 45
: When plants have been suffered to become too dry, the ground
should be loosened before watering it; and water should be given a
little at a time, and frequently, till the plant appears to have recovered
its vigour. A great deal of the good produced by watering depends
on the state of the ground; as when the ground is hard and com-
pact, it is very possible to throw a great quantity of water upon it
without doing any service to the plants.

The kind of water used should also be considered. The best 1s
pond-water, as it is always mixed with air, and is, moreover, gene-
rally impregnated with decayed animal and vegetable matter; and
the worst is clear spring-water, as it is always cold, and is seldom
impregnated with air, or with anything but some mineral substance,
which, so far from doing good, is positively injurious to the plants.
Rain-water collected in open cisterns, and river-water, are both very
suitable; and when only spring-water can be obtained, it should be
exposed for some time to the air before using it.” It is always advi-
sable to have the water at least as warm as the plants to be watered ;
and for this reason the water to be used in hot-houses and green-
houses is generally kept in an open vessel in the house some hours
before using. In some cases, the water may be much hotter than
the temperature in which the plants are grown; and the effect of hot
water, not heated to above 200°, in forwarding bulbs is astonishing;
but it must be observed that it should never be poured on the bulbs,
or on the leaves, but on the earth near the rim of the pot. Hot wa-
ter is also very efficacious in softening seeds with hard coverings
when soaked in it; and some of the seeds of the New Holland aca-
cias will not vegetate in this country till they have been actually
boiled for some minutes.

CHAPTER IV.

MODES OF PROPAGATION BY DIVISION, VIZ. TAKING JFF
SUCKERS, MAKING LAYERS AND CUTTINGS, BUDDING,
GRAFTING, AND INARCHING.

PROPERLY speaking, there are only two modes of propagating
plants, viz.: by seed and by division. The first raises a new indi-
vidual, resembling the plant that produced the seed, as a child does
its parent, but not perpetuating any accidental peculiarity; and the
second method multiplies specimens of the individual itself. Species
are propagated by seed, and new varieties are raised ; but varieties
are generally propagated by division, as they do not always come
true from seed. The modes of propagation, by division, are of two
kinds :—those in which the young plants root in the ground, such as
suckers, layers, and cuttings; and those in which they are made to
root in another plant, as in budding, grafting, and marching.

Suckers——Sending up suckers, forming offsets, and throwing out
runners, are all natural ways of propagation that require very little
aid from the hand of man; and if all plants produced these, nothing
more would be required than to divide the offspring from the parent,
and replant it in any suitable soil. But only certain plants throw up
suckers, such as the rose, the raspberry, the lilac, the English elm,
&c.; offsets are only formed on bulbs, and runners are only thrown
out by strawberries, brambles, and a few other plants; and thus
these modes of propagation are extremely limited in practice. No
plants produce suckers but those that send out strong horizontal
roots; as the sucker is in fact a bud from one of these roots which
has pushed its way up through the soil, and become a stem. As this
stem generally forms fibrous roots of its own, above its point of
junction with the parent root, it: may in most cases, when it is

oF - a
e. .
»* * LAYERS. 47

thought necessary to remove it, be slipped off the parent and planted
like a rodted cutting. As, however, the nourishment it can expect to
derive from its own resources will be at first much less than what it
obtained from its parent, it is customary, when a sucker is removed,
to cut in its head, to prevent the evaporation from its leaves being
greater than its roots can supply food for. Sometimes, when the pa-
rent is strong, part of the horizontal root to which the sucker was
attached is cut off and planted with the young plant

Suckers of another kind spring up from the collar of the old plant,
and when removed are always slipped or cut off with the fibrous
roots that they may have made, attached. Offsets are young bulbs
which form by the side of the old one, and merely require breaking
off, and planting in rich light soil. Runners are shoots springing
from the crown or collar of the plant, which throw out roots at their
joints ; and which only require dividing from the parent plant, and
replanting in good soil, to make new plants.

Layers——Many plants, when kept in a moist atmosphere, having
a tendency to throw out roots from their joints, the idea of making
layers must have very early occurred to gardeners. When the roots
are thrown out naturally wherever a joint of the shoot touches the
moist earth, (as is the case with some of the kinds of verbena, which
only require pegging down to make them form new plants,) layers
differ very little from runners; but layers, properly so called, are
when the art of the gardener has been employed to make plants
throw out roots when they would not have done so naturally. The
most common method of doing this is to cut half through, and slit
upwards, a shoot from a growing plant, putting a bit of twig or pot-
sherd between the separated parts; and then to peg down the shoot,
so as to bury the divided joint in the earth; when the returning sap,
being arrested in its progress to the main root, will accumulate at the
joint, to which it will afford such abundance of nourishment, as to
induce it to throw out a mass of fibrous roots, and thus to convert
the shoot beyond it into a new plant, which may be separated from
the parent, and transplanted.

The only art required in layering is to contrive the most effectuat
means of interrupting the returning sap, so as to produce as great
an accumulation of it as possible, at the joint from which the roots
are to be produced. For this purpose, sometimes, instead of cutting
the branch half through, a ring of bark is taken off, care being taken

48 LAYERS

A Verbena Layered,

that the knife does not penetrate into the wood; and at ot
is twisted firmly round the shoot, so as to pinch in the ba
knife or other sharp instrument is passed through the branch several
times in different directions: in short, any thing that wounds, or
injures the shoot, so as to throw an impediment in the way of the
returning sap, and yet not to prevent the passage of the sap that is
ascending, will suffice.

Layering is a very common mode of propagating plants; and in
nurseries often every shoot of a tree or shrub is thus wounded and
pegged down. In this case, the central root is called a stool, from
the verb, to sfole, which signifies the power most deciduous trees
possess, of sending up new stems from their roots when cut down.
The seasons for performing the operation of layering are during the
months of February and March, before the new sap begins to rise,
or in June or July after all the summer supply of ascending sap has

+
9

™%
e

7

° 2 CUTTINGS. 49

fisen; as at these seasons there 1s no danger of injuring the tree by
oceasioning an overflow of the ascending , Which sometimes
takes place when the tree is wounded while the sap is in active
motion. In most cases the layers are left on twelve months, and in
many two years, before they are divided from the parent plant, in
order that they may be sufficiently supplied with roots. In nur-
series, the ground is generally prepared round each stool by dig-
ging, and sometimes by manuring; and the gardener piques him-
self on laying down the branches neatly, so as to form a radiated
circle round the stool, with the ends rising all round about the same
height.

Chinese mode of layering —The Chinese method of layering,
which consists in wounding a branch, and then surrounding the
place with moist earth contained either in a flower-pot or a basket,
is frequently adopted in the continental gardens; and it has the very
great advantage of producing a young tree which will flower and
fruit while yet of very small size. It is generally applied to camel-
lias, orange-trees, and magnolias; but it will do equally well for
almost any other tree or shrub. When a plant is to be layered in
this manner, a ring of bark is first taken off, and then a flower-pot is
procured, cpen on one side, so as to admit the branch; and some
moss being put at the bottom of the flower-pot, it is filled up with
earth, and a piece of wood is placed inside the pot before the open
part to prevent the earth from falling out. It may be fastened in its
place by wires hung over a branch, or supported by four little sticks,
tied t pot with string. The earth should be very moist before
it is i the pot, and if the season be dry, it may be re-moist-
ened from time to time. When the layer i is supposed to have rooted,
a cut or rather notch should be made in the branch below the pot,
and afterwards it may be cut off, and the young plant transferred
with its bali of earth entire, to another pot or the open ground. A
simpler way of performing this operation is using a piece of lead
instead of a flower-pet. A modification cf this plan was adopted
by Baron Humboldt in South America. He provided himself with
strips of pitched cloth, with which he bound moist earth round the
branches of several of the rare and curious trees he met with, after
first taking off a ring of bark; and when he returned to the same
place some time after, he found rooted plants, which he brought ¢e

Europe.
e

&

Chinese Mode of Layering.

Cuttings differ from layers in being removed without roots from
the parent tree; and as the current of the ascendmg sap is stopped
at once by this separation, they general’y require s] ading, which
layers do not; and also, occasionally, what gardeners call bottom
heat, to in !vce them to throw out roots. The branches most suit-
apnle for making cuttings are those which grow nearest to the ground,
especially those which recline on it,as they have always the greatest

CUTTINGS. 51

endency to throw out roots; and even the erect side-shoots are
vonsidered preferable to those which grow at t the upper part of the
plant. The best season for making cuttings is summer, when the
sap is in full motion; as the returning sap is then most likely to form
the ring or mass of accumulated matter from which the new roots
are to spring. Jt has been already mentioned under the head of
layers, that it is from the joints only that roots can be expected to
grow; and, accordingly, in making cuttings, the shoot is divided
just below a joint; and it is generally reckoned best to choose a
joint at the point of junction between the young wood and the
wood of the previous season. The cut should be quite smooth ; as,
if the shoot be bruised, the returning sap will not be able to reach
the joint in a sufficient quantity to effect the desired end. Some
plants are much more difficult to strike as cuttings than others; but
some, such as the willow, the currant, the vine, &c., will throw out
roots not only from the joints, but from every part of the ‘stem.
These plants do not require sc much care as to cutting off at a joint;
as they will throw out roots from whatever part may be put into the
ground, but even they succeed best when properly prepared.

The cutting being taken off, and the division at the joint being
made perfectly smooth, several of the leaves should be cut off close
to the stem, with a sharp knife; and a hole being made in the soil,
the cutting should be put in, and the earth pressed close to its ex-
tremity, or it will never strike out roots. This necessity of the part
which is to send out roots being fixed firmly in the soil, has been
already mentioned with regard to seeds, transplanted trees, and
layers; and this necessity exists with equa: or greater force with re-
gard to cuttings. When these are made in a pot, the cutting will
much more readily strike (as gardeners call its throwing out shoots),
if it rest against the side of the pot, or even against the bottom.

Cuttings may be struck in the open ground, and in the common
soil, without any covering; but these cuttings are only of those
plants which strike readily. When struck in pots, it is customary
to fill the pots half, or entirely full of silver sand, to prevent the stalk
of the cutting from having too much moisture round it. Those cut-
tings which are most liable to be injured by moisture, such as heaths,

c., are struck in pots filled entirely with sand; but as there is no
nourishment to be derived from sand, most cuttings do best with
their lower end in earth, and with only sand about an inch, or two

ag
é

e

¥

52 CUTTINGS,

A Cutting of the Lemon-Scented Verbena (Aloysia citriodora,) prepared for putting
into the ground.

inches deep, at the top of the pot, to keep the stem dry, and to pre-
yent it from rotting. The cutting, when prepared, should be buried
to about the second joint, and two or three joints with leaves should
be left above the soil. A few leaves to elaborate the sap in the case
of herbaceous plants, or evergreen trees and shrubs, are essential ;
for Ihave known very promising cuttings of petunias, which had
been some weeks in the ground, and which had thrown out abun-
dance of roots, entirely destroyed by some snails having eaten all the
leaves; and I am told that the case is by no means an uncommon
one. Cuttings of delicate plants are generally covered with a bell-
glass pressed closely on the earth, to keep a regular degree of mois-
ture round the plants, and to prevent too rapid an evaporation; but
some cuttings when thus treated are very apt to damp off, and zequire
to have the glass taken off occasionally, and wiped. Cuttings of
greenhouse plants, I have been told by practical gardeners, strike
best when put into the pots as thickly as possible; and as they are
generally well watered when first put into the ground, if covered with
a close glass, they will very seldom require any watering afterwards

_—. =

CUTTINGS.

Cuttings of the Common Horseshoe, and Large White Flowered Geraniums (Pelargontum zonale
and P, macranthum), prepared for putting into the ground ; the leaves being left on those stalks
which are represented long, and taken off those which appear short.

As long as they continue looking fresh, they are doing well; and as

soon as they begin to grow they should be transplanted into small

thumb pots, and supplied moderately, but regularly, with water;
: E*¥

-

54 : CUTTINGS.

A Cutting of the China Rose (Rosa indica), prepared for putting into the ground ; it being ob-
served that the leaves represented as shortened, are only drawn so for want of room in the
page.

e. ;

changing the pots for larger ones as the plants increase in size, and

according to their nature. Sometimes the pots are sunk into a hot-

bed, to induce the cuttings to take root, and this is called applying
bottom heat; and sometimes one flower-pot is placed within anothes

SLIPS. 5D

a size or two larger, and the inner one filled with water (the hole at
. the bottom being first stopped with clay or putty), and the cuttings

placed in the outer one. All these expedients are more or less effica-

cious; and the great object with all of them, is to excite and stimu-
late the plant.

Slips—When cuttings are made of the shoots from the root or
collar of the plant, or of little branches stripped off with a small por-
tion of the root or stem attached, they are called slips; and they require
no other preparation than cutting off the portion of bark smooth and
close to the shoot. Slips are generally taken off in March, but
they will also succeed if made in autumn. Cuttings of succulent
plants, such as of the different kinds of cacti, require to be dried for
some time after they are made, by placing them on a shelf in the sun.

This is done to prevent the wounded part
from becoming rotten in the ground, as the
sap is very abundant, and in a very liquid
state.

Pipings axe cuttings of pinks and carna-
tions, and indeed are applicable to all plants
having jointed tubular stems. They are pre-
pared by taking a shoot that has nearly done
growing, and holding the root end of it in one
hand, below a pair of leaves, and with the
other pulling the top part above the pair of
leaves, so as to separate it from the root-part
of the stem at the socket formed by the axils
of the leaves, leaving the part of the stem
pulled off with a tubular or pipe-like termina-
tion. Hence the name of pipings; and when
thus separated, they are inserted in finely
sifted earth or sand, and a hand-giass is
fixed firmly over them. Most florists cut off
the tips of the leaves of pipings, but others
plant them entire; and the pipings grow ap-

Pipings of a Cation. parently equally well under both modes of
treatment.

The principal points to be attended to in making cuttings are, to

eut off the shoot at a joint, without bruising the stem; to make the

56 BUDDING.
&

cutting at a time when the sap is in motion; to fix the end which is

to send out roots, firmly in the soil; to keep it in an equal tempera-

ture both as regards heat and moisture ; to cut off part of the leaves.
and to shade. the whole, so as to prevent too much evaporation, with-
out excluding the light, which is wanted to stimulate the plant; to
keep the soil moist, but not too damp; and to pot off the young
plants as soon as they begin to grow.

Budding has been compared to sowing a seed ; but it may rather
be considered as making a cutting with a single eye, and inserting it
in another tree, called the stock, instead of in the ground. A young
shoot of the current year’s wood is cut off in the latter end of July or
August, or perhaps, if the season should be very moist, the first week
in September; and incisions are made longitudinally and across, on
each side, above and below a bud, so that the bud may be cut out,
attached to an oblong piece of wood and bark, pointed at the lower
end. The leaf is then taken off, but the footstalk is left on.

The next thing is to separate the bark with the bud attached from
the wood; and on the nicety of this operation much depends, as if
any wood be left in the bark the bud will not take; generally, how-
ever, if the sap be in a proper state of movement, the wood comes
out easily, without leaving the smallest particle behind. The bud
must be then examined below, that is, on the side that was next the
wood; and if it appears fresh and firm, it is likely to take, but if it
looks shrunk and withered, it had better be thrown away, as it will
never grow. Slits longitudinal and across are then made in a shoot
of the stock, generally near the fork of a branch; and the bark is
gently raised by the handle of the budding knife, which is purposely
made thin and flat, while the piece of bark to which the bud is at-
tached is slipped into the opening, and the bark of the stock closed
over it. This is an operation that requires the greatest nicety and
exactness ; as unless the inner bark of the bud fits quite closely to
the soft wood of the stock, it is in vain to hope that it will take.
The operation is then completed by binding the two parts together
with a strand or strip of bast mat, which in the case of rose trees is
quite sufficient; but buds on apple and pear trees are sometimes
wrapped round with wet moss, which is tied on by sl eds of bast
matting. In all cases, the strips of bast should be left long enough
to be tied with bows and ends, that the ligature may be loosened, and
tied again without deranging the position of the bud, as soon as if

~_

BUDDING. 57

begins to grow. The first sign of the bud having taken, as it is
called, is when the petiole of the leaf (that was left on when the leaf
itself was cut off,) drops, on being very slightly touched with the
finger ; but the ligature should not be loosened till the bud begins to
throw out leaves ; and then it should be re-tied only a little slacker
than before, until the bud is firmly united with the stock.

Mode of Budding a Rose-Tree.

In France, buds are only applied to a part of the stock from which
a bud has been taken, so that the bud of the scion may exactly sup-
ply the place of the original bud of the plant. But this precaution,
though certainly founded on reason, is seldom attended to in Eng-
land.

Budding,
spring graft

gh sometimes used for apples and pears, when the
failed, is most commonly applied to roses: it is,
however, ly used for inserting eyes in the tubers of the
dahlia. The root of the dahlia consists of a number of tubers, col-
lected together, and each of which should be furnished with an eye
or bud at its summit, so as to form a ring round what is called the

@ «st

5S : BUDDING.

crown of the root, from which the stems of the plant are to
spring. When the plant is to be propagated, the tubers
are divided, and planted separately, and each that has a bud
at its summit will send up a stem, and will become a new
plant. Sometimes, however, it happens that several of the
tubers are devoid of buds, and that others have more than
one, and when this is the case, one of the buds is scooped
out, and a notch being made in the top of the barren tuber
to receive it, the bud is ftted in, and the point of junction
covered with grafting wax. The tuber must then be
planted in a pot with the budded part above the soil; and
the pot plunged into a hot-bed till the bud begins to push,

when the tuber may be planted out into the open ground. |

What is called flute-grafting, is, in fact, a kind of bud-
ding; as it consists in taking a ring of bark, on which
there is a bud, off a shoot; and then supplying its place |
with a ring of bark, with a bud attached, from another |
tree: placing the suppositious bud as nearly as possible in |
the position of the true bud. Sometimes, however, this is
not thought necessary ; and the ring of bark is taken from
any part of the stock; though it is always replaced by a
ring of bark containing a bud from the scion. There are
many other kinds of budding, but as the principles are the
same in all, it is not necessary to detail them here. The
blade of the budding knife should be short, and curve out-
wards, to lessen the danger of wounding the wood when
making the incisions,

The principal points to be attended to in budding, are, to
choose a fresh healthy bud; to separate the bark to which
it is attached, without wounding it, quite cleanly from the
wood; to make a clear incision through the bark of the
stock, and to raise it from the wood without wounding it;
to press the bark containing the bud so closely to the wood
of the stock that no air can remain between them; and to
perform the operation in moist weather, not earlier than the
last week in July, nor later than the first week in Septem-

ay

e »
BUDDING. 59

ver. Of these points the most importaatitte the joining closely the
bark of the bud to the wood of the stock, and the performing the
operation in moist, or at least in cloudy weather; and if these are
attended to there is little doubt of success. When the young shoot
begins to grow, it is usual to shorten the branches of the stock, so
as to throw the whole vigour of the tree into the bud. It is singular
to observe that even when the operation is mest successful, no inti-
mate union takes place between the bud and the stock: they grow
firmly together, but they do not incorporate, and the point of union
may always be distinctly traced.

It must always be remembered that a plant can only be budded
on another plant of the same nature as itself; thus a peach may be
budded on a plum, as they are both stone fruits, and both belong to
the same section of the natural order Rosacez; but a peach can nei-
ther be budded on a walnut, which belongs to another natural order,
nor even on an apple ora pear, both of which, though belonging to the
order Rosacee, are kerneled fruits, and are included in another sec-
tion.

Grafting differs from budding in its being the transfer of a shoot
with several buds on it, from one tree to another, instead of only a
single bud; and as budding has been compared to sowing seeds, so
has grafting to making cuttings. The art of grafting consists in
bringing two portions of growing shoots together, so that the liber
or soft vood of the two may unite and grow together; and the same
general principles apply to it as to budding. There are above fifty
modes of grafting described in books, but only three or four are in
common use. Ys

In ail kinds of grafting the shoot to be transferred is called the scion,
and the tree that is to receive it is called the stock; and it is always
desirable, not only that the kinds to be united should be of the same
genus, or at least of the same natural family, but that they should
agree as closely as possible in their time of leafing, in the duration
of their leaves, and in their habits of growth. This is comformable to
common sense; as it is quite obvious that unless the root send up a
supply of sap at the time the leaves want it, and only then, the graft
must suffer either from famine or repletion. For this reason, a deci-
duous plant cannot be grafted on an evergreen, and the reverse. The
necessity of a conformity in the habit of growth, is strikingly dis-
played in Mr. Loudon’s Arboretum. Britannicum, in a wood er

es

Fy

60 GRAFTING.

graving of a flowering = grafted on a common ash, and growing at
Leyden; by which it is shown, that an architectural column with its
plinth and capital may be formed in a living tree, where there is a
decided difference in the growth of the stock and the scion.

These examples show that no intimate union takes place between
the scion and the stock; and the fact is, that though they grow toge-
ther and draw their nourishment from the same root, they are in
every other respect perfectly distinct. The stock will bear its own

leaves, flowers, and fruit, on the part below the graft; while the scion — te ;

%
i |
-

is bearing its leaves, flowers, and fruit, which are widely different, on
the part above the graft. Nay, five or six grafts of different species —

on the same tree, will each bear a different kind of fruit at the same
time. This want of amalgamation between the scion and the stock
is particularly visible in cases of severe frost, when the former is
more tender than the latter; as the graft is frequently killed without
the stock being injured. It is also necessary when grafted trees are
for any reason cut down, to leave a portion above the graft for the
new shoots to spring from; as otherwise the proprietor will find his
trees changed as if by magic, and instead of choice kinds only the
common sorts left. A rather droll instance of this happened some
years ago, in the neighbourhood of London: an ignorant gardener
having a conservatory full of very choice Camellias, and wishing to
reduce the plants to a more compact shape, cut them down for that
purpose; when in due time he found, to his great confusion and dis-
may, that the choice Camellias had all vanished, and that he had no-
thing left but a number of plants of the common single red on which
they had been grafted.

The proper season for grafting is in spring, generally in March and
April; in order that the union between the scion and the stock may
be effected when the sap is in full vigour. At this season a stock is
chosen of nearly the same diameter as the scion, whether that stock
be a young tree, or merely a branch; and they are both cut so as to
fiteach other. One piece is then fitted on the other as exactly as possi-
ble; and if practicable, it is contrived that the different parts, such as
the bark, soft wood, and hard wood, of the one, may rest on the cor-
responding parts of the other; and on the exactness with which this is
done, the neatness of appearance of the graft depends. It is not,
however, essential to the success of the operation, that all the parts
of the scion should fit exactly on the corresponding parts of the stock

a

ae

GRAFTING, 61

or even that the two trees should be of the same diameter, for ifthe bark
and the soft wood correspond in any one point so as to unite, it is
sufficient to make the graft take. As soon as the scion and the stock
are properly fitted to each other, the parts are neatly bound together
with a strand of bast mat steeped in water to make it flexible; and
the bast is covered with a composition called grafting clay, which is
put on to keep the absorbent vessels of the wounded parts moist, and

_ capable of the alternate contractions and dilations which will be neces-

.

_

sary during the passage of the ascending and returning sap between
the stock and the graft. These directions apply alike to all kinds of
grafting; and the difference between the sorts refers principally to the
manner in which the corresponding parts are cut to fit each other.

Whip or Tongue Grafiing is where both the stock and the scion
are cut in a slanting direction so as to fit each other, and a little slit
is made in the stock into which a tongue or projecting part cut in
the scion fits. The head ofthe stock is then cut off in a slanting
direction, slanting upwards from the part cut to receive the scion,
and the two are bound closely together with a strand of bast mat, or
wrapped in moss, and then covered with grafting clay. The part
left on the stock in a slanting direction above the graft withers, and
is cut off when the graft has taken. This is the kind of grafting ge-
nerally practised in nurseries, and it is the most useful, as it does not
require the scion and the stock to be of the same size.

Cleft Grafting is where the scion is shaped at the extremity like a

“wedge, and a cleft is made in the stock to receive it. When this

kind of grafting is practised with trees and shrubs, the head of the
stock is cut off; but a modification of it is practised with succulent
plants, in which the end of the graft having been cut into the shape
of a wedge, is inserted in a cleft or notch made in the side of the
stock to receive it, and the line of junction is covered with grafting
wax. ‘The tubers of strong common dahlias may be grafted in the
cleft manner with choice sorts, as may the tubers of the herbaceous
ponies with scions of the tree-peony. This last is very useful, as
cuttings of the Peonia Moutan remain weak for several years, while
roots grafted in July or August will flower the following spring.

Crown Grafling resembles the last kind in requiring the head of
the stock to be cut off, but the scion is shaped at the extremity like a
wedge flattened on one side, and it is pushed in between the bark
and wood of the stock, with its flat side next the wood, till it ia

; F a
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62

GRAFTING,

27 — ae
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The common mode of Whip or Tongue Grafting.

stopped by a shoulder with which it is provided, to prevent +t going
in too far. In Saddle Grafting the head of the stock is cut off, and
the extremity of the trunk is shaped like a long wedge; a long slit is
then made in the scion, and the divided parts are made to stand
astride on the stock. ‘The bark is then pared off at the extremity, so
that the two parts may fit quite close; and a firm ligature is applied.

os

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GRAFTING. 6%

Herbaceous Grafting is very badly named, as it gives the idea of its
being a kind of grafting applied to herbaceous plants; whereas, in
fact, it only means grafting with the brittle wood of the current
year, in opposition to common grafting, which is always performed
with firm wood, frequently of several years’ growth. Herbaceous
grafting is now generally used for trees of the pine and fir tribe,
which, only a few years ago, it was thought impossible to graft at
all. The proper time for this kind of grafting is when the young
pime-shoots have made about three parts of their growth, and are
still so herbaceous as to break readily between the fingers, like a
shoot of asparagus. The shoot of the stock is then broken off about
two inches below the point, and all the leaves stripped off for nearly
two inches more, except two sheaths of leaves, which are left, one
on each side, close to the top. The shoot is then split with a very
thin knife between the sheaths of leaves left on, and the scion, having
had its lower extremity prepared by stripping off the leaves, and
cutting it into the shape of a wedge, is inserted as in cleft grafting,
and the parts are bound together with list, or with a strip of thin
woollen cloth. A cone of paper is then put over the whole to pro-
tect it from the sun and rain, and the graft is very seldom found to
fail.

Sometimes this kind of grafting is applied to annual plants. The
period chosen should be when the plant is in its greatest vigour, and
is just going into flower. The flower stem is cut off close to a leaf,
and a slit is made in the stem downwards. The scion is then taken
off near the root of the plant, and the end, being cut into a wedge-
shape, is inserted in the slit. The wound is afterwards bound up
with strips of cloth spread with grafting wax, and the leaf taken great
care of. When the graft begins to grow, this leaf and all the shoots
above it are removed. In this manner artichokes have been grafted
on cardoons, and caulifowers on cabbages with great success.
Tornatoes have also been grafted on potatoes, the potatoes perfecting
their tubers, and the tomatoes their fruit, at the same time; and it is
said that the ripening of the latter was much accelerated. This
mode of grafting was invented by the Baron Tschoudy, a gentleman
residing at Metz, and the principal point in it which requires atten-
tion, is the preserving a leaf, or two leaves, at the extremity of the
stock, to serve as nurses to the graft.

Inarching, or Grafting by Approach—Though I have left this till

4
i feo

64 GRAFTING.

Mode of Inarching the Camellia.

last, it is in fact the most simple of all ways of grafiing, and it 1s
certainly the only one practised by nature. In a natural forest, two
branches rub against each other in windy weather, tll the bark of
both becomes wounded; a calm ensues, and, while it lasts, the

7 es

GRAFTING, 65

Stock and Scion prepared for Tuarching.
_
wounded branches lying across each other adhere and grow together.
Of this, which is called inosculation, examples in the beech, the horn-
beam, and the oak, are given in Mr. Loudon’s Arboretum Brilanni-
cum ; and it is probable that mankind derived the first idea of graft-
ing from observing instances of this kind. Inarching, as practised
in nurseries, closely resembles layering. A branch is bent and part-
ly cut through, and the heel thus formed is slipped into a slit made
downwards in the stock to receive it. The parts are then made to
meet as exactly as possible, and are bound together with bast mat,
and covered with grafting clay, as in common grafting. In five or
six months the union will be complete ; and the inarched plant will
be ready to be separated from the parent, which js done with a very
sharp knife, so as to leave a clean cut, and not a bruised one. The
head of the stock, if it was left on when the plant was inarched, is
then cut away, and the plant is ready for removal. It is, however,
customary to keep on the grafting clay and ligature for a few weeks,
till the plant is firmly established. This mode of propagation is very
commonly practised in spring (generally in March) with Camellias
and Magnolias; and it is usual in nurseries to see a fine new kind
of Camellia surrounded by a sort of frame, on which are several pots
of stocks of the single red, placed at different heights for the con=
venience of attaching to them different branches of the choice kind,

F*

66 GRAFTING.

to undergo the process of inarching. In most of these eases the
head of the stock is retained, and the scion introduced at the side ;
but as soon as the graft has taken, and has thrown out a sufficient
number of leaves to carry on the elaboration of the sap, all the -
branches of the original plant above the graft are cut away to
strengthen the inarched one. .
Camellias are also now frequently grafted in a manner first prac-
tised in Belgium, but afterwards greatly improved in the nursery of
M. Soulange Bodin at Fromont, near Paris, and which has the
advantage of producing flowering plants much sooner than by any
other plan. This mode of grafting, which is called la grefe éloujrée.
may be practised at any season, and on a stock of any age from the
cutting of a year old, to the long established plant, provided it be
heaithy, and of sufficiently small size to be grown ina pot. There
are two modes of performing this kind of grafting; and by the first,
which is called la greffe étouffée en fente, and which is a kind of cleft
grafting, the head of the stock is cut off close to a leaf which has a
strong healthy bud in its axil. The cut is made sloping upwards to
the leaf, and on the preservation of this leaf and bud a great part of
the success of the operation depends. ‘The stock is then split in face
of the leaf and bud to a depth equal to two-thirds of its thickness ;
and the scion, which has been previously cut with a sharp knife into
the shape of a wedge terminating in a sharp point, is inserted. The
bark of the stock and that of the scion are united as closely as
possible, and the two are tied closely together; the wound in the
scion, where the head was cut off, being covered with pitch, to
prevent the possibility of any moisture entering the wood, though no
pitch is permitted to touch the point of junction between the scion
and the stock, lest it should prevent the uniting of the bark. As
soon as the operation is finished, the pot containing the stock must
be plunged into a bed of tan, lukewarm if it be in spring, and hot if
it be in winter, and covered closely with a bell, or hand glass. The
glasses ought to be taken off every second day, and wiped, as too
much humidity will make the young plants damp off; and the
glasses may be left off for an hour or two occasionally, if the plants
appear too moist. The second mode of performing this kind of
grafting, and which is that generally practised in autumn, in Belgium,
is called la greffe élouffée en placage, or la greffe des Belges; and is a
‘ina of side grafting, or rather of inarching. It consists in eutting

i

GRAFTING. 67

off a small portion of the bark of the stock with very little wood
attached, from the side of the stem, or one of the branches, leaving
a leaf and a bud above it; and then cutting the scion into a chisel
shape, so as to fit the wound in the stock exactly, and binding the
two closely together with a strip of bast matting, but without using
any other covering. As soon as the operation is finished, the pot
containing the stock is laid horizontally on a bed of dry: and cold
tan, or on a bed of dry moss, the branches lying on the surface, and
the pot being half buried in the tan or moss; the grafted part being
covered with a bell-glass, stuffed round the bottom with the moss or
tan so as to prevent a particle of air from entering. This close
covering is kept on for a fortnight, three weeks, or a month, accord-
ing to the season; at the end of which time, the graft will be found
perfectly united to the stock. Air is then admitted to the graft by
degrees, by first loosening, and then removing the moss from the
glass; the glass itself is afterwards taken off, and the pots set erect.

The great points to be attended to in this mode of grafting, are
giving the plants bottom heat, and covering them closely, whence the
name of greffe étowffée, as the plants appear almost stifled for want of
air. According to both modes, as soon as the graft has taken, the
leaf and bud of the stock above the insertion of the scion, which
were left on to draw up the sap, are cut off, and the plant is then in
a fit state to be removed to the green-house, or any other place where
it is to flower. :

Grafting-clay and grafling-waz have been so frequently mentioned
in the various operations of grafting and budding, that it seems ne-
cessary to say a few words on their composition. Common grafting-
clay is made with any kind of stiff clay mixed with a fourth part of
fresh horse-dung free from litter, and a portion of cut hay; a little
water is sprinkled on the mass, and the whole is beaten together
several times a-day for about a week, till the ingredients are tho-
roughly amalgamated. The common French grafting-clay, or On-
guent de Ste Fiacre, is composed of equal parts of stiff clay and
cow-dung ; but a superior kind, recommended by M. De Candolle,
is composed of one pound of cow-dung, half a pound of pitch, and
half a pound of yellow wax. Grafting-wax is generally made of
equal parts of turpentine, beeswax, and resin, with a little tallow,
melted together, and thoroughly incorporated. This is thinly spread
on pieces of coarse cotton, and used in strips like cerecloth. In graft-

GRAFTING.

ing trees that have a soft and delicate bark, fine moss and cotton
wool tied on with ligatures of bast mat, are better than anything else,
and they are generally quite sufficient for every purpose in which
grafting is employed by ladies. A new composition has been lately
invented, made with caoutchouc, which is said to be very efficacious,
but I have never seen it tried.

The essential points to be attended to in grafting are—choosing a
stock and a scion that correspond in nature and in habits of growth;
cutting the parts to be united so as to fit exactly, and leave no vacuity
between ; taking care that the soft wood of the scion shall always
rest on the soft wood of the stock, as it is between these parts that the
union is to be effected ; binding the parts closely together, and cover-
ing them so as to prevent them from becoming so dry as to shrink
apart, in which case the vessels would wither and become incapable
of uniting.

Uses of Grafting and Budding.—The obvious use of grafting is to
propagate varieties that cannot so easily be continued by seed, aad
that will not strike by cuttings. There is, however, another use
nearly as important; and this is to make plants flower and feuit
sooner than they would otherwise do. ‘There are many plants that
only flower at the extremity of their shoots; and these plants, when
tender, would require enormous plant-houses before they would be
thrown into flower or fruit. To remedy this inconvenience, a me-
thod has been devised of cutting off the tips of the shoots and graft-
ing them ; and then, after they have grown for some time, cutting off
the tips again and regrafting them, by means of which flowers are
at length produced on plants of quite a small size. The same me-
thod is applied in Paris to exotic fruit-trees, to throw them into fruit;
and it has been tried with success with the rose-apple (Eugenia Jam-
bos), the mango, &e. In common nurseries, the fruit of new seed-
ling apples is obtained much sooner by grafting their shoots on com-
mon apple stocks, than by leaving the young plants to nature; and
this plan is also practised at Brussels by Prof. Van Mons, to test
his seedling-pears. ’

%

= '

Sf

CHAPTER V.

PRUNING, TRAINING, PROTECTING FROM FROST, AND
DESTROYING INSECTS.

Pruning appears, at first sight, a most laborious and unfeminine
occupation; and yet perhaps there is no operation of gardening
which a lady may more easily accomplish. With the aid of a small,
and almost elegant pair of pruning shears, which I pro-
cured from Mr. Forrest, of the Kensington Nursery, I
have myself (though few women have less strength of
wrist) divided branches that a strong man could scarcely
cut through with a knife. The only thing to be attended
to is to choose a pair of pruning shears with a sliding
joint, so as to make what is called a draw-cut; in order

that the branch may be divided by a clean cut, and not
§ bruised on the side next the plant, and also to leave a
somewhat sloping section. When a branch is pruned, it should also
be cut as near to a bud as can be done without injuring the bud it-
self; or, to speak more definitely, not more in length than the branch
is thick should be left beyond the bud. The cut should slope down-
wards from the bud to prevent the water lodging in the angle; and
also that the sun and air may have their full influence in exciting
the bark to cover the wound. When a long piece of branch, or
what gardeners call a snag, is left beyond the bud, it withers, from
there being no leaves beyond it to carry on the circulation of the
sap; and it thus not only becomes a deformity, but very often seri-
ously injures the tree by rotting, and infecting the fruit-bearing
pranch to which it is attache

According to the usual m

od of pruning with a knife, the gar-

70 PRUNING.

dener holds the branch in his left hand, below the part
that is to be removed ; and then, holding the knife firmly
with the thumb at the back of the blade, he makes a
strong cut upwards, and from him, so as to remove the
branch with a single stroke, and to leave a slanting sec-
tion. This operation, however, requiring strength as well
as skill, it will generally be safer for a lady to use only
her pruning shears, which will be sufficient to cut
through the largest branch that a lady would be able to
remove ; or to use a pair of garden scissors fixed to a
pole, which may be lengthened or taken to pieces like a
fishing-rod, as is practised by Captain Mangles. The
scissors are strong and sharp, and are made to act by
means of a long cord, which passes through rings down
the side of thepole. The principal use of these scissors
is to remove dead roses, &c., but they will also cut off
a branch of dead wood, &c. When a large branch is to
be removed, it is generally necessary to cut a notch out
of it on each side, and then to divide the remainder with
a pruning knife, or a small saw; but this is an opera-
tion that most ladies will prefer leaving to a gardener.
In all cases, the great art of pruning consists in making
a clean sharp cut, so as to leave the bark in a healthy
state to make an effort to cover over the wound, and m
pruning sufficiently near a bud not to leave any dead
wood.

The time for pruning is either early in spring, after
all danger is over from frost, but before the sap has
begun to move; or in winter, after the movement of
the sap for the summer has ceased. Summer prun-
ing is also necessary with some trees; but, generally
speaking, it should be confined to rubbing off all buds,
which would produce unnecessary shoots, as soon as
they appear. This operation is called disbudding, and

| it is highly efficacious in sparing the strength of the tree.
any persons pinch off the points of those shoots which appear to

PRUNING. 71

be running too much to wood, but as this only excites the branch to
throw out fresh shoots, it is much better to strip the superfluous
branches of their leaves as they appear; and as, when thus treatea,
they can produce no buds for want of leaves, their growth will be
checked without injuring the tree, and they may be safely removed
in the winter pruning. The vine is very apt to bleed when pruning
has been delayed too late; and in very strong vigorous plants, the
ascending sap sometimes drops from the branches like rain. The
French, very poetically, call these drops the tears of the vine.

The uses to which pruning is applied are various; but most com-
monly it is intended either to improve the form of the tree, or to
make it bear more flowers and fruit than it otherwise would do; it
is also used for removing diseased or broken branches; and, in cases
of transplanting, for proportioning the head to the roots.

Pruning to improve the form of a tree in pleasure-grounds, is only
required in those cases where trees have grown under unfavourable
circumstances, and where they have been too much drawn up, or
distorted in any manner; but in useful plantations it is necessary to
prepare trees for the purposes for which they are intended. Thus,
for example, a tree intended for timber, should have its side-branches
taken off while they are quite young, in order that the wounds may
soon heal over, and not leave loose knots to weaken or disiigure the
wood; while a tree intended for a screen should be allowed ample
space for its branches to spread from the ground upwards, and
then they should only be shortened at their extremities, to make them
throw out short branches near the tree. In pleasure-grounds the
principal object is generally either to preserve the shape of the tree
or shrub, so that it may form an agreeable object on a lawn; or to
let it combine in a group with others, either for ornament, or to serve
as a screen or shelter. In the first case, it is obvious that no pruning
is requisite, but to remove dead, diseased, or unsightly branches ;
and in the second, the pruning must depend upon the shape the
tree is required to take to group well with the others planted
near it.

Pruning to produce flowers or fruit has in view two objects: first,
to cut off all superfluous wood, so as to throw the strength of the
tree into the fruit-bearing branches; and secondly, to admit the sun
and air into the interior of the tree. In both cases the attention of
the pruner must be directed to thinning out weak and crowded

72 PRUNING.

shoots; and to keeping both the sides of the tree well balanced, in
order that the circulation of the sap may be equal throughout. ‘his
wil] preserve the general health of the tree, at the same time that it
throws the sap into the proper channels; and the fruit will be pro-
duced in as much abundance as can be done without injuring the
tree. It should never be forgotten, that to effect permanent improve-
ments, nature should be aided, not overstrained; and that all ex-
traordinary exertions are succeeded by a period of feebleness and
languor, or, if the exertion be continued too long, by death. Thus,
all cases of pruning and training to produce fruit should never be
pushed too far; as though, by occasioning an extraordinary deposit
of the returning sap in some particular part, that part may be forced
into fruit, the unnatural deposit cannot fail in the end to engender

disease. z <

Sometimes a tree, from being supplied with more eithen it can
digest, or from some other cause, has a tendency to produce what
the English gardeners call water-shoots, and which the French call
gourmands. These are strong, vigorous-growing branches, which
are sent up from the main trunk of the tree, but which do not pro-
duce either flowers or fruit; and which, consequently, if the tree be
full of wood, should be removed as soon as their true character is
discovered. If, however, the tree have too little wood in the centre,
or if it appear exhausted by too much bearing, these branches should
be spared, as they will serve admirably both to fill up any blanks
that may have been left in the training, and to strengthen the trunk
and roots by the quantity of rich returning sap, which they wil!
send down from their numerous leaves. A certain quantity of leaves
and barren branches are essential to the health of every tree; and
the fruit grower who consults his own interest, should cherish them,
instead of grudging the sap required for their support. Whenever
there is not a sufficient quantity of Jeaves to elaborate the sap, the
fruit that ought to have been nourished by its rich juices, becomes
flaccid and insipid; its skin grows tough instead of crisp; and if
the deprivation of leaves has been carried to excess, the fruit never
ripens, but withers prematurely, and falls off. Pruning, at the
best, is a violent remedy; and, like all other violent remedies, if
carried further than is absolutely necessary, it generally ends by
destroying.

Training is intimately connected with pruning, and like it should

TRAINING. 73

always be used with caution. A trained tree is a most unnatural
object; and whatever care may be taken of it, there can be no dount
that training shortens its life by many years. The principal object
of training is to produce from a certain number of branches a greater
quantity of fruit or flowers than would grow on them if the plant
were left in its natural state; and this is effected by spreading and
bending the branches, so as to form numerous depositions of the re-
turning sap, aided, where the plant is trained against the wall, by
the shelter and reflected heat which the wall affords. Thus the
points to be attended to by the gardener in training, are, the covering
of the wall, so that no part of it may be lost; the bending of the
branches backwards and forwards, so that they may form numerous
deposits of the returning sap; and the full exposure of the fruit-bear-
ing branches to the sun and air. For these purposes the gardener
shortens the long shoots, to make them throw out side-branches,
with which he covers his walls, never suffering them to cross each
other, but letting each be as much exposed to the influence of the air
and light as is consistent with a necessary quantity of leaves; and
he bends them in different directions to throw them into fruit. These
general principles are common to all fruit-trees, but of course they
must be modified to suit the habits of the different kinds. Thus, for
example, some trees, such as the fig and the pomegranate, only bear
on the extremities of their shoots; and, consequently, if their shoots
were continually shortened, these trees would never bear at all; other
wees, such as the apple and the pear, bear their fruit on short pro-
jecting branches, called spurs; and others at intervals on nearly all
the branches, and close to the wall. All these habits should be
known to the gardener, and the modes of training adopted which
will be suitable to each. Training flowers should also be regulated
by a knowledge of the habits of the plants; but it consists principally
in checking their over-luxuriance of growth, and tying them to stakes
or wooden frames. In all kinds of training, neatness is essentially
requisite, and any departure from it is exceedingly offensive. Where
the hand of art is so evident as it is in training, we require excessive
neatness to make us amends for the loss of the graceful luxuriance of
aature.

The operation of training against a wall is performed by the aid of
nails and shreds; the shreds being narrow oblong pieces of list or
cloth, put round the branches, and attached to the wall by nails

G

Pay

74 PROTECTING FROM FROST.

driven in with a hammer. Care should be taken that the pieces of
list are long enough to allow of the free passage of the sap, and yet
not so long as to permit the branch to be so agitated by the wind as
to bruise itself against the wall. The nails should also never be
driven in so as to wound or corrode the bark; and when driving in
the nails, the gardener should be very careful not to bruise the branch
with his hammer. The shreds should be broad enough not to cut
the bark, and yet not so broad as to cover the buds; and they should,
as much as possible, be of some uniform and dark colour. As few
shreds should be used as are sufficient to attain the end in view; but
these should be very firmly attached, as nothing gives a more gloomy
picture of misery and desolation in a garden, than trees that once
were trained, having become detached, and hanging drooping from
the wall. Sometimes wires are fastened to walls, to which the
plants are tied with strands of bast mat; the strand, afler it is put
round the branch and the wire, being gently twisted between the
finger and thumb, in order that it may make a firm knot without
tearing or weakening the ligament. Climbing shrubs are tied to the
pillars of a verandah, or to trellis work, in the same manner; as are
aiso flowers to sticks, or slight wooden or wire frames, with the ex-
ception that, in their case, the bast does not require twisting.
Protecting from frost is an essential part of culture to a lady gar-
dener, particularly in so uncertain a climate as that of England. Not
only the blossoms of peaches and nectarines, and those of other early
flowering fruit-trees, are liable to be injured by the spring frosts; but
those of the tree pwzony, and other beautiful shrubs, are frequently
destroyed by them; and, unfortunately, many of the modes of pro-
tection, by knocking off and bruising the blossoms, are almost as in-
jurious as the frosts that they are intended to guard against. Twist-
ing a straw-rope round the trunk of the tree, and putting its ends
into a bucket of water, is certainly a simple method, and it has been
recommended as a very efficacious one. When a mat is used to
protect wall trees, it does perhaps least injury to the blossoms, when
curtain rings are sewed to its upper end, and it is hung by these on
hold-fasts, or large hooks, driven into the upper part of the wall. “To
make it more secure, particularly in windy weather, it may be tied
on the sides with bast to nails driven into the wall; and a broad
moveable wooden coping should rest on the hold-fasts, and cover the
space between the mat and the wall, to prevent injury from what are

DESTRC YING INSECTS, "5

_alled perpendicular frosts. Camellias and many half-hardy shrubs
may y be protected by laying straw or litter round the roots; as the
severest frosts seldom penetrate more than a few inches into the
ground. Even in the severe winter of 1837-8, the ground was not
frozen at the depth of ten inches. Tree pzonies, and other tender
shrubs, that are in a growing state very early in the spring, may
be protected by coverings of basket-work, which are sufficiently
large and light to be lifted off in fine days. Hand and bell glasses,
sea-kale pots, and wooden frames covered with oiled paper, are all
useful for protecting small plants. It is astonishing how very slight
a covering will often suffice to protect a plant from frost, if the cover-
ing be over the top of the plant, even though the sides be exposed ;
while, on the contrary, a warm covering in front of the plant will fail
to save it, if the top be exposed to the perpendicular frosts. Protect-
ing the roots and collar, is a most important point, and few half
hardy trees and shrubs will be seriously injured, if the ground over
their roots is covered a few inches deep with straw or dead leaves.
Every lady should have two or three hand-glasses, of different sizes,
always at her disposal, even during summer, for the convenience of
sheltering newly transplanted plants, &c.; and for winter use she
~ should have several beehive-like covers, each with a handle for lifting
it, formed of plaited rushes or some similar materials, which may
easily be made by poor women and children in country places, under
the direction of a lady; and which will be a charitable mode of em-
ploying them.

Insects, and Snails, and Slugs, are the terror of all gardeners ; and
the destruction they effect in some seasons in small gardens is almost
beyond the bounds of credibility. Birds do comparatively little inju-
ry, and indeed all the soft-billed kinds (which fortunately include must
of the sweetest songsters) do good. ‘The willow and common wrens,
the black-cap, the nightingale, the redstart, all the warblers and fly-
catchers, the swallows:and martins, the wagtails, the wryneck, the
tom-tit, the fern owl or night jar, and many others, live almost en-
tirely on insects, and destroy great numbers every year: while the
blackbird and the thrush, the robin and the sparrows, though they
devour a portion of the fruit, destroy insects also. AJ] birds may in-
deed be safely encouraged in small gardens near towns, as they will
~ do much more good than ek and a few cherries and currants are
a cheap price to pay for their delightful songs.

a

76 DESTROYING INSECTS.

As it is the larve only of insects, with very few exceptions, that
do injury to vegetation, many persons never think of destroying
them in any other state; forgetting that every butterfly that we see
fluttering about may lay thousands of eggs, and that if we wait till
these eggs have become caterpillars, irreparable mischief will be
done to our plants before they can possibly be destroyed. When-
ever a butterfly is seen quietly sitting on the branch of a tree, in the
day-time, it will generally be found to be a female, that either just has
laid, or, what is more probable, is just about to lay her eggs. As
soon as the eggs are laid, the butterfly generally dies; and where
dead butterflies are found, search should always be made for their eggs.
In summer, a little oblong chrysalis, the colour of which is yellow, with
black bands, will frequently be found hanging from the gooseberry-
bushes ; and whenever it is seen it should be destroyed. This chrysalis
is the pupa of the magpie moth, the caterpillar of which frequent-
ly strips the gooseberry-bushes of all their leaves in spring, and thus
renders their fruit worthless in summer. The lackey caterpillar is
another very destructive insect. These creatures, which are curious-
ly striped, like the tags on a footman’s shoulder, (whence their
name,) assemble together in great numbers, and covering themselves
with a web, completely devour the epidermis and parenchyma of the
leaf on which they have fixed themselves; they then draw another
leaf to them, which they also devour, and then another, till the
greater part of the leaves of the tree they have attacked, present a
fine lace-like appearance, as though they had been macerated. Did
all these insects live to become moths, they would completely de-
stroy not only our gardens, but our forests, as they feed on almost
every different kind of tree; but with that beautiful arrangement by
which all the works of our Great Creator are balanced equally with
each other, and none allowed to predominate, these insects are such
favourite food for birds, that not a hundredth part of them are suf-
fered toreach maturity. The eggs of the lackey moth are often
found fixed on a naked twig, in winter, looking like a bracelet of
hard beads, and adhering so firmly together, that the whole bracelet
may be slipped off entire.

The cabbage butterflies are also very destructive in the larva
state. The caterpillars are soft, of a*pale whitish green, and very
active, leaping about in the hand when taken; and the chrysalis,
which is also green, looks as if it were swalltel up like a mummy,

DESTROYING INSECTS. 77

ane eaterpillar of the beautiful little ermine moth is a gregarious
feeder, like the lackey caterpillar, and is nearly as destructive; and it
is the more necessary to mention this because the moth itself is so
small, so delicate, and so quiet, that no one unacquainted with its
habits would think of killing it as an injurious insect.

The leaf-rollers, the saw-flies, and the gnats which occasion the
oak-galls, are all very destructive. The leaves of the rose-tree are
often found marked, in summer, with pale-brown zigzag lines, witha
narrow black line running down the middle of each. These lines are
the work of a very small orange-coloured caterpillar, not more than
two lines long, that lives on the parenchyma of the leaf; and the pale
brown mark is occasioned by the epidermis drying where the pulp
beneath it has been removed. The moth is called the red-headed
pigmy, and it is so small as not to measure more than two lines and a
half broad, when its wings are fully expanded. The “worm 7 th’

bud” of the rose, is the maggot or grub of one of the kinds of saw-
_fly ; a beautiful transparent-winged little creature that no one would

suspect of springing from such a frightful-looking maggot. But of all
the insects that infest the rose, the most destructive are the aphides.
These little green flies cover the tender leaves and buds of the young
shoots in myriads, and are extremely difficult to destroy, without
spoiling the appearance of the shoots that have been attacked by
them. ‘Tobacco-water is an excellent remedy, if not too strong. It
should be made by steeping half-a-pound of the best tobacco in a
gallon of hot water; and as soon as the infusion has become cold,
the young shoots should be dipped in it, and suffered to remain a few
seconds, after which they should be immediately washed in clean
water before they are suffered to dry. If this be done carefully, the
insects will be destroyed, and yet the shoots will remain uninjured.
Lime-water may also be tried, if no more lime be used than the water
will hold in solution; as unless the water be quite clear in appear-
ance, when applied, the plant will be very much disfigured with the
white stains of thelime. Another means of getting rid of all noxious
insects, is to fumigate them with tobacco; and the best way of doing
this is by a small brass fumigator, applied to one of the patent blow-
ers. The fumigator is filled with loose tobacco, which is lighted,

and the brass tube is then screwed on the blower, and the fume

gently spread through the green-house, or among the plants. By
putting a little of the moxa or Spanish tinder among the tobacco, or
G*

et

et,

te

78 DESTROYING INSECTS.

using it alone, caterpillars, butterflies, snails, &c. may be st ;
when they will fall from the branches, and may be gathered up and
destroyed. There are also several kinds of fumigating bellows. Ar
excellent preventive remedy is to wash the stems and branches of de-
ciduous rose-trees, in winter, with water heated to 200°, or with a
mixture of strong tobacco-water and soft-soap ; cleaning the branches
well at the same time with a soft brush. The American blight which
infests apple-trees is another species of aphis, and may be destroyed
in the same manner.

- Besides the insects already enumerated, there are several kinds of
beetles, which devour plants both in the larva and perfect state. Of
these, the cockchafer remains in the larva state four years, and is one
of the most destructive insects known; it is the celebrated ver blanc
‘of the French. The rose beetle, or rose chaffer (Cetonia aurata), is
ae emely beautiful, from its splendid wing cases of burnished green
and gold; and these beetles, notwithstanding their shape, which

ner weather, be seen upon the wing, making a loud buzzing noise.

Vien taken up in the hand they draw up their feet, and appear to
be dead; but, after having been handled and even tossed about for
some time, they will, if a favourable opportunity appears to offer,
suddenly spread out their wings and buzz away, leaving their captor
too much astonished to be able to make any effort to retain them.
Several of these insects may often be found in one rose; but they are
supposed to be only engaged in sucking the honey from the flower,
and not injuring it. They undergo their transformations in the
ground, and the grubs are supposed to live entirely on little bits of
rotten wood. Besides the insects already mentioned, the various
kinds of weewls, the wire-worm, the thrips, the red spider, or rather
mite (Acarus telarius), various kinds of tipula, or Gaffer long-legs,
wood-lice, and earth-worms, are all found on plants, and are all more
or less injurious to them. In the general destruction of insects, the
Lady-bird should always be spared, as, both in its larva and its
perfect state, it lives on the larve of the green fly, or aphis.

Snails and Slugs are more destructive to vegetation than any kind
of insect; and they are still more difficult to get rid of. There isa
very small grey slug, that is peculiarly injurious to plants in pots;
the large grey slug is also very destructive, and the common garden
snail. The beautifully banded snail (Helix nemoralis) is, however,

ks too heavy and clumsy for flying, may frequently, in ho 2 sum-.

DESTROYING INSECTS. 79 '

supposed to live partly on earth-worms, and the shell slug (Testa-
cella ecutella) lives entirely on them. The usual modes of entrap-
ping snails, slugs, and wood-lice, are laying down slices of raw po-
tatoes or cabbage-leaves at night, and examining them before the
dew is off the plants in the morning. As, however, this requires
very early rising, a more convenient method is to lay a few flower
pots upon their sides, near the places where the snails have com-
mitted their ravages; and the snails, which can neither move nor feed
unless the ground be wet with dew or rain, will generally be found
to take refuge in the flower pots from the heat of the sun. They are
likewise often found in the middle of the day, sticking against walls \. .
under ivy, or in box edgings. In gardens very much infested with . eee
snails, search should be made in winter among all the ivy and box _ Des ae
in ea garden ; and all the snails found in a torpid state should be de- .

them from peogiuins numerous; and, as the eggs are not laid ti
April or May, care should be taken, before that season, to destro
the snails that can be found. The eggs are round, almost trans-
parent, and of a bluish white, like opal; and thev are always found
in small clusters, buried in the ground.

CHAPTER VI.

WINDOW GARDENING, AND THE MANAGEMENT OF PLANTS
IN POTS IN SMALL GREEN-HOUSES.

The management of plants in rooms is extremely difficult, from the
want of proper light and moist air: though this latter want may, in
some measure, be obviated, by opening the window in front of which
the plants stand, whenever circumstances will permit. It should
never be forgotten that moist air is almost as essential to plants as
water ; ard that they are seriously injured by being forced to inspire
air at their breathing pores that is in too dry a state for them. I have
often observed the healthy appearance of plants belonging to cot-
tagers; and I believe it arises principally from the habit that most
poor people have, of setting their plants out in the rain whenever
there is ashower. This not only clears the leaves of dust, and opens
the stomata or breathing pores, but gives the plant abundance of
fresh air. Without a sufficiency of air and light, plants will soon
become weak and sickly, and their leaves will turn yellow; but if a
little fresh ai ‘be given to them every day when the temperature is
not too co they will grow nearly as well in a room as in a green-
house.

Another reason why plants kept in rooms are generally unhealthy,
is, that they are watered in a very irregular manner. Sometimes
they are suffered to become so dry that the mould in which they
grow will crumble under the pressure of the finger, and the spongi-
oles of the roots are quite withered; and then a profusion of water
is given to them, quite cold from the pump, though they have pro-
bably been standing in a temperature of from 60° to 70°. Asa
"limax, part of this water is suffered to remain in the saucer for a

»*

PLANTS IN POTS. 81

day or two, till even the healthy part of the roots is thoroughly
chilled, and the plant, if of a delicate nature, is destroyed. The
reverse of all this should be the case. The plant should never be
suffered to become so dry as to have the mould in a crumbling state;
but if such a circumstance has been suffered to occur, it should be
well watered with warm water of at least the temperature of the
room, and better if rather warmer. Enough of this water should be
given to fill the saucer; in order that every part of the mould and of
the roots may imbibe some benefit from the moisture; but as soon
as this has been done, the pot should be lifted out of the saucer, and
the water thrown away, as nothing can be more injurious to the
roots of most plants, than to have the pot they grow in kept stand-
ing in water. There are, however, some exceptions to this rule, such
as all the kinds of Mimulus, the Hydrangea, Calla ethiopica, and
some kinds of Calceolaria. All these, and all marsh plants, require
abundance of water, and will not flower well unless the saucer be
kept half full, though the water should be changed every day.

It is also a common fault to put plants kept in rooms, into too
large pots; or, as the gardeners express it, to over-pot them. This
has always a bad effect. If the soil be good, and not over-watered,
the plants will indeed grow rapidly; but it wiil be to produce leaves
and branches instead of flowers: and if the soil be over-watered, the
mass of soddened soil round the roots has the same effect upon them

as stagnant water in the saucer. The soil should always be in such

a state as to admit air with the water to the roots; and this it cannot
do when it becomes a blackened paste by being saturated with water.
At the same time, frequent repotting is often absolutely Bey to
keep the plants in a dwarf compact habit of growth, and pre
them from being drawn up. The in which gardeners ascertain
when repotting is necessary, is by turning the plant out of its pot
with the ball of earth attached; and if they find the roots look white
round the outside of the saint then the plant should be transferred
to a larger pot, but only one size larger: afterwards it may be re-
potted again if necessary, but always to a pot only a little larger than
the one it was taken from. By persevering in this mode of treatment
fer some time, and never advancing more than one size at a time, a
plant may be grown to a large size, and made to produce abundance
of flowers; while by the contrary treatment, that is, suffering it to re-
main in a very small pot, or shifting it suddenly into a very large

ok
5
pe

®,

82 GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

one, the stem will become weakened and elongated, and the flowers
will be few and very poor. In short, on the skilful management of
repotting, or shifting, as the gardeners call it, a great deal of the art
of growing plants in pots depends.

The best soil for plants in pots is generally peat mixed with vege- e
table mould and sand; and the pots should be filled nearly a quarter
of their depth with little bits of broken pots, called potshreds, so as
to ensure complete drainage. When plants are shifted, they are
turned out of their old pots with their balls of earth entire; the roots
are then examined, and if any are wounded or decayed they should
be cut off. The new pot having had a layer of potshreds placed at
the bottom with a little earth, the plantis placed in the centre, so that
the bole or collar may be just above the level of the rim, and the new
earth is put in, and the pot being shaken to make it settle, the plant
is then slightly watered, and set aside in the shade for the rest of the
day. Plants should never be repotted when in flower; the best time
is indeed when they are growing, before their flower buds begin to
swell, as, when the flower buds have appeared, they should be
allowed to remain undisturbed till the flowering season is completely
over. Sometimes the soil in a pot looks black, and covered with
moss. When this is the case, the plant should be turned out of the
pot, and the black sodden earth shaken off the roots, which should
be cut in, and should have all their decayed parts removed. The
plant should then be repotted in another pot of the same, or nearly
the same size as the one it was taken from, which should be well
drained, and filled up with a compost of vegetable mould, sand, and
peat. Thus treated, and only moderately but regularly watered with

warm water, which should never be allowed to stand in the saucer,
the plant will soon recover: and if judiciously pruned in, if it has be-
come elongated, it will become handsome, and what gardeners call
well grown.

Another objection to growing plants in rooms is the great dif-
ficulty that exists in keeping them clear of insects; particularly the
Aphis, or green fly, and the kind of mite (Acarus telarius) com-
monly called the red spider. These are generally destroyed by fu-
migating them with some kind of fumigating bellows (see p. 78.)
Washing with a syringe, and abundance of water, is, however, pro-
pably a better mode; as it has been often observed that neither the

£

=e

+

¥.
FLOWER-POTS. 83

green fly nor the red spider will ever infest a plant that is frequently
syringed.

Flower-pots are of many different kinds, but the common red earthen-
ware are decidedly the best, because they are the most porous, and
consequently do not retain the moisture so as to be injurious to the
plants they contain. They are of various sizes, which are designated
by the number made ont of a certain quantity of clay called a cast.
Thus the larger size, which is a foot anda half in diameter, is called
a two, because there are only two made out of a cast; and the
smallest-numbered size, which is only two inches in diameter, is
called a sixty, because there are sixty pots made out of one cast.
Wren I was in my gardening noviciate, I used to be very puzzled
when I was told that rooted cuttings should be potted in thumbs or in
sixties, and that a plant which required transplanting, should be put
in a twelve, or an eight. Thumbs are still smaller pots than sixties,
for there are eighty to the cast; but as they are seldom used, they are
not described by their number, but they are called thumb-pots, be-
cause they will not hold more than a large sized thumb. Besides the
common flower-pots, there are double pots, one of which has been
sent me by Capt. Mangles, which are very useful for balconies, as
he roots of the plants are very apt to be injured, by the outside of
the pot in which they grow being dried by the wind, or heated by
the sun. When double pots are used, the interstice between the
pots should be stuffed with moss kept moist. China, or any kind of
giazed pots, may also be used for balconies, as the material of which
they are composed does not permit evaporation; but they should
always be filled at least a third of their denth with broken crocks, or
potshreds, to ensure drainage. A very elegant flower-pot, manu-
factured in Derby, has been lately presented to me id, ae Booth,
which combines the beautiful form of a vase, with all the convenience
of a common flower-pot and saucer. These flower-pots are made of
the common red porous earthenware, and they may, of course, be of
any desirable size. All pots should be well drained, by having a
layer of potshreds at the bottom, to prevent the hole from becoming
choked up with the earth pressing against it; and hair-rooted piants
such as heaths, and most of the Australian shrubs, should kave the
pot filled to a third of its depth with potshreds. Succulent plants,
such as the cacti, and mesembryanthemums, should be drained with

P|

a4 FLOWER-POTS,

The Vase, Flower-Pot, and Saucer.

ciuders; as the potshreds, being of a porous material, would retain
too much moisture for their roots.

The management of plants in a small green-house differs very little
from that of plants in rooms. Whenever the weather will permit,

oad
;

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.—CAMELLIAS. 85

~

air should be given, if only for half an hour in the middle of the day.
The house should be kept clean, and free from dead leaves; and the
plants should not be too much crowded. Nothing can iook worse
than pale sickly green-house plants, drawn up to an unnatural length,
and so weak that their stems will not stand upright without the aid
of a stick. When green-houses are crowded with plants, some of
which are too far from the light, this must be the case; and when it
is, it is quite hopeless to expect either healthy plants or fine flowers.
Though it is adviseable to have saucers to the pots of plants kept in
rooms, for the sake of cleanliness, it is much better for those kept in
the green-house to be without them. All persons having a great
number of plants in pots, should be provided with a small watering-
pot, having a very long spout, for the convenience of reaching the
different pots ; and care should be taken to give water to each pot in
succession, by resting the spout of the watering-pot in turn on each.
The watering-pot may have roses of two or three different kinds, to
screw on as wanted.

Watering Pots for Green-House Plants,

As different green-house plants require a somewhat different treat-
ment, the following directions for the management of a few of the
most popular may be useful to my readers.

Camellias.—The Camellia is a plant which requires abundance of
water, and is yet soon killed by suffering stagnant moisture to re-
main about the roots. When grown in pots there should be abun-
dént drainage; that is, the pots should be nearly a quarter filled
with potshreds. The soil should be peat-earth, and sand, which
may be mixed with a little vegetable mould, if it is desired to have
the plants of very luxuriant growth; and the plants should be potted
high, so as to let the collar of the plant be quite above the rim of the

H

as &

86 THE GREEN-HOUSE.—CAMELLIAS.

pot. The pots should not have saucers, or if they have for the sake
of cleanliness, the water should be carefully poured out of them im-
mediately after the plants have been watered. The plants should be
watered abundantly every day while their flower-buds are swelling ;
as, if this be neglected, the buds are very apt to drop off. When the
flowers begin to expand, the watering is not of so much consequence,
though it should be continued in moderate quantities; and abun-
dance should be again given when the plants are making their young
shoots. After they have done growing, watering once or twice a-
week will be sufficient till the flower-buds again begin to swell. Dur-
ing the growing season, the plants should be set out and syringed
all over the leaves once or twice a-week; but care should be taken
not to do this when the sun shines, orat any rate not to set the plants
in the sun while they are wet, as the heat of the sun acting on the
water will scald the leaves, and make them appear blotched, and par-
tially withered. The roots of Camellias are seldom very strong, and
they are very easily injured. Great care should, therefore, be taken,
when the plants are repotted, not to bruise the roots, or to cut off all
that are at all injured. If on turning out the plants previous to re-
potting, the ball of earth has no white roots appearing on the out-
side, the earth and decayed roots should be shaken or cleared away,
till good roots are seen; and these should be carefully examined, and
all the bad parts cut away. The plants should then be repotted ir a
pot not more than an inch in diameter than the diameter of the ball of
earth left round the sound roots; and it should be well drained at the
bottom with very small potshreds, or clean gravel. Small Camellias
should not be shifted oftener than once in two years; and large ones,
that is, those above five feet high, not oftener than once in three or four
years ; but if the earth in the pot appears to have sunk, a little veo-
stable mould may be Jaid on the surface. The usual time for shift-
ing Camellias is just when they have done flowering, before they are
beginning to send out their young shoots. When planted in the free
ground in a conservatory, they will require no other care than regu-
lar watering, and syringing the leaves once or twice a-week. When
planted in the open air, the roots should be carefully protected by
straw during frosty weather.* There are some Camellias in the

* Camellias will not, in this country, endure the open air in winter north of
Carolina.—Ep.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.—GERANIUMS. 87

Vauxhall Nursery (Messrs. Chandler’s), which have been treated in
this manner, and have stood out for several years. The hardiest
kinds, and the most suitable for planting in the open air, are the
single red, the double red, and the double white. The magnificent
Camellia reticulata is also said to be tolerably hardy. The tenderest
of the common kinds are the beautiful apple-flowered variety of C.
Sasanqua, and the single variety of this species, the flower of which
resembles that of the tea-plant. These plants are both of low growth,
and ought always to be kept in pots. Camellias are very often in-
fected with insects, particularly a kind of black aphis, the only reme-
dies for which are fumigation and constant syringing. The leaves
of Camellias should be always syringed on the under side, as well
as on the surface, as they curve inwards a little, and thus afford a
shelter to insects, from which it is very difficult to dislodge them.
For an account of the new method of grafting the Camellia, now
practised with great success at Knight’s Exotic Nursery, King’s
Road, Chelsea, and some other places, see p. 66.

The best collections of Camellias in London are those of Messrs.
Loddiges at Hackney, Messrs. Chandler’s at Vauxhall, and Messrs.
Lees at Hammersmith.

Geraniums, or Pelargoniums—The beautiful green-house shrubs,
which we are accustomed to call Geramums, have, in fact, been long
separated from that genus, and formed into a new one called Pelar-
gonium. ‘The difference is in the shape of the seed vessel; that of
the Pelargonium being like a stork’s bill, and that of the Geranium
like a crane’s bill. Both are nearly allied to the Touch-me-not: and
when the seed is ripe, the valves of the seed-pod burst asunder and
curl up. There are almost innumerable species, hybrids, and
varieties of Pelargoniums grown in our green-houses, so mixed up
together by hybridizing that it is very difficult even to class them.
One of the hardiest kinds, which has numerous descendants, is the
Horse-shoe Geranium, Pelargonium zonale: and another, P. inqui-
nans, is the common scarlet. The rose-scented Geranium, P. grave-
olens, and oak-leaved, P. quercifolium, with their numerous descend-
ants, the flowers of which are all crimson, striped with brown so
very dark that it looks almost black, are also tolerably hardy. All
the shrubby kinds, which are generally kept in green-houses, require
arich loamy soil, that is, about half very rotten dung, and half
sandy loam, to make them produce fine flowers. "When the flower-

88 THE GREEN-HOUSE.—HEATHS.

ing season is over, the plants are cut down, and cuttir.gs made from
them. (See page 53.) When these have struck, they are potted in
a compost of vegetable mould and sand, and kept in this soii till
February or March, when they are repotted in rich soil for flower-
ing. Some gardeners throw away the old plants as soon as they
have made the cuttings; but others take the old plants out of their
pots, and shaking the earth from them, cut in the roots, and repot
the plants in smaller pots. Pelargoniums require a great deal of air;
and when about to flower they should have a great deal of water,
but at other seasons very little. They are killed with the slightest
frost ; and they are very liable to damp off, if watered too much, and
not allowed sufficient air, in winter. Air is, indeed, quite essential
to them. The best geranium growers in or near London are Mr.
Catleugh of Chelsea, and Mr. Gaines of Battersea.

Heaths —The kinds grown in green-houses are all natives of the
Cape of Good Hope, and they are very numerous; but they may be
classed under six heads, which are named from the shape of their
flowers. ‘These divisions are tubular shaped, ventricose, spreading

r salver shaped, with an inflated calyx, globular, and ovate. They
-.\l require to be potted high, and to be grown in three parts of peat-
carth to one of fine white sand, or in what is emphatically called
neath. mould. The fine hair-like roots of heaths cannot penetrate a
stiff loamy soil, and manure would be too gross for their spongioles
totake ip. The collar of the plant should always be above the
soil, as 1 is very easily rotted by moisture. Heaths require good
dre’ naze, and frequent waterings; and though the water should
nzv-r be allowed to stand in the saucer, the roots should also never
be allowed to become quite dry, as, when once withered, they can
never be recovered. Heaths also require abundance of free air, and
no plants are more injured by being kept in rooms. They shouid
not be shifted oftener than once in three or four years. They are
propagated by cuttings taken from the tips of the shoots, and then
struck in pure white sand. The pots containing the cuttings should
be plunged up to the rim in a hot-bed, and each should be covered
with a bell glass. Heaths are easily killed by frost, which acts upon
them by splitting, or rather shivering their stems. The best heaths
near London are those of Messrs. Rollisson of Tooting; but there
are also very good collections at Messrs. Henderson’s, Pine Appice
Place, Lee’s, Hammersmith, and Chandler’s, Vauxhall.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.—VERBENAS. 89

Verbenas.—No family of plants better rewards the care of the
cultivator, and none can be more beautiful, than the Verbenas. The
old scarlet Verbena melindres, or, as it is frequently called, V. cha-
meedrifolia, is the most brilliant of all the kinds, though it is one of
the most tender: it is.a prostrate plant, and when pegged down, it is
well adapted for covering a bed in a geometric flower garden; or it
may be planted in a vase, or rustic flower-basket, to hang down over
the sides. Verbena Tweediana is an upright growing plant, and
though the flowers, which are crimson, are not half so brilliant as
those of V. melindres, the plant has the great advantage of being one
of the hardiest of all the kinds. V. melindres latifolia, and V. m.
splendens are both hardier than their parent, and they unite its
brilliant colour, with the upright habit of Tweediana. V. incisa
has pale pink flowers, and an upright habit of growth. It is tolerably
hardy, and grows freely, but its flowers have a faded look. V.
Arraniana has an upright habit of growth, and purple flowers, with
very dark bluish green leaves. It is very tender, and very apt to be
attacked by a kind of aphis, and other insects. V. pulchella, V.
Aubletia, V. Lambertii, and V. Sabinii, are prostrate tufted half
herbaceous kinds, allhardy. V. Neillii has lilac flowers, and rather
an upright habit of growth; and V. teucroides is a coarse-growing
plant, with a long spike of white flowers, which turn pink in dying
off, that has been much more praised than it deserves. There is
also a yellowish kind, V. sulphurea; V. venosa, a very strong-grow-
ing species, with purple fldwers ; and many other species, hybrids,
and varieties. All the Verbenas require to be grown in sand and
peat, or heath-mould, and to be kept moderately watered; they all
strike readily from cuttings or layers; and, indeed, when pegged
down, even without any slitting or twisting, most of the shrubby
kinds will throw out roots at every joint. When worm-casts are
observed on the surface of the earth in the pot, as will very often be
the case, the plant, with its ball of earth entire, may be turned out
of the pot, and the worms, which will always be found on the out-
side of the ball, may be picked off. Worms do considerable injury
to plants, especially such as are in pots, by rupturing the fibres, and
impe:tiag the free percolation of the water, besides giving the surface
of tie earth in the pot a very unpleasant appearance. The flowers
of the Verbenas should always be cut off as soon as they wither.
The Lemon plant, Verbena triphylla, now called Aloysia citriodora,

H*

90 THE GREEN-HOUSE.—PETUNIAS,—FUCHSIAS. .

is remarkavle for the sweetness of the odour of its leaves. It is
tolerably hardy; but requires great care in watering; as the leaves
will soon curl up and wither if it has too little, and they will drop
off if it has too much water. The flower has no beauty; and thé
only recommendation of the plant is the delightful fragrance of its
leaves.

Petunias may be raised either from seed or cuttings, as they seed
freely, and strike readily. ‘The first kind introduced was Petunia nyc-
taginiflora, which produces a great abundance of large, white, fragrant
flowers; Petunia pheenicea, or violacea, is another original species,
and from these two nearly ali the myriads of hybrids and varieties
now found in gardens have arisen. These Petunias hybridize freely
with each other, and most of the kinds produce abundance of seed;
but P. bicolor is a distinct species, which does not either mix well
with the others, or seed freely. Petunias may be treated as annuals,
and raised ona slight hot-bed every year from seed; and thus treat-
ed, they will do very well in the open ground. In warm dry situa-
tions, they may even be suffered to sow themselves in the open
ground, and will come up and flower abundantly. ‘Treated as
green-house plants, they are, however, all shrubby, and will last se-
veral years. When intended to be kept in pots, the seed should be
sown on a slight hot-bed in February, and the young plants should
be pricked out into very small thumb pots, while they are in the seed
leaf. In these pots they should remain either in the frame of the
hot-bed, or in aroom, or green-house, for about a week or ten days,
and they should be then shifted into-somewhat larger pots. These
shiftings, always into somewhat larger pots, should be repeated six,
eight, or ten times, if the plants are wanted to be bushy; and not
more than four, if the plants are wished to grow tall. The bushy
plants will flower abundantly without any support; but the tall-
growing plants, which are suffered to flower in comparatively small
pots, must be trained to some kind of frame. When the tall plants
appear to be growing too straggling, the extremities of the shoots
should be taken off and made into cuttings. Petunias may be
grown in any good garden soil; and require no particular attention
as to watering, &c. In fact, they are, perhaps, the best of all plants
for a lady to cultivate; as they will afford a great deal of interest and
amusement, with the least possible amount of trouble.

Fuchsias are another family of plants that may be cultivated with

THE GREEN-HOUSE.—FUCHSIAS.—CALCEOLARIAS. 91

very little trouble. Fuchsia globosa is perhaps the hardiest kind.
F. virgata is also tolerably hardy. All the Fuchsias require a light,
rich soil, or a mixture of rich sandy loam and peat; and regular wa-
tering, as when the outer roots are once withered, either by want of
moisture, or by exposure of the pot to the direct rays of the sun, the
plant generally dies. For this reason the Fuchsia is not so well
adapted for a window plant as many others. Fuchsia fulgens dif
fers considerably from the other species, and will not flower well un-
less in the open air, and with a sunny exposure. It is also tuberous
rooted, though woody in its stem. It is easily propagated; and
even a leaf taken off without injuring the part of the petiole which
was attached to the stem, has been known to grow and forma plant.
Several handsome hybrids have been produced, by applying the
pollen of F. fulgens to the stigma of F. globosa, F’. conica, and F.
gracilis. It may here be mentioned, that whenever hybrids are to be
raised, by fertilizing one plant with the pollen of another, the anthers
of the flower that is to produce the seed should be removed with a
pair of scissors before they burst. The pollen from the other
flower which is to form the hybrid, should be afterwards applied
with a camel-hair pencil to the stigma of the flower which is to pro-
duce the seed; and a bit of thread should be tied round the flower-
stalk, in order that the seed-pod may be saved and set apart. All
hybrids may be made in the same manner; but it must always be
remembered that flowers will not hybridize properly, unless they are
naturally nearly allied. ‘Nearly allied to F. fulgens is the newly in-
troduced F. corymbiflora, which, as Dr. Lindley very justly observes,
casts all the other Fuchsias into the shade. This magnificent plant
is described by Ruiz and Pavon, in the Flora Peruviana, as growing
to the height of a man, and it is perfectly laden with flowers, which
are produced in the same manner as those of F. fulgens, but far ex-
ceed them, both in elegance of shape, and brilliance of colour. The
tube part of the flower is a clear bright rose colour, with the tips very
much turned back, and the petals thus displayed are of the richest
and most brilliant carmine. The species was raised by Mr. Stan-
dish, Nurseryman, Bagshot, ana it appears likely to be quite as
hardy as F. fulgens. The best Fuchsias in the neighbourhood of
London are those of Mr. Standish at Bagshot, but some very
handsome varieties have been raised by Mr. Groom of Walworth.
Calceolarias.—Perhaps no plants have ever been hybridized more

92 THE GREEN-HOUSE. MYRTLES.—MIMULUS.

extensively than these. The principal parents of the numerous and
spiendid plants that we are continually seeing produced, are C.
corymbosa, and C. arachnoidea, the one a yellow, and the other a
purple flower; but there are many other species that have been
crossed and re-crossed with these, so as to form a very great variety.
C. bicolor, with pale yellow-and-white flowers, and C. crenatiflora,
with spotted flowers, have also been the parents of some very fine
hybrids and varieties. All the calceolarias require rather a rich soil;
and the usual compost is two parts of thoroughly rotten dung, one
part of leaf mould, or old turf, and one part of white sand. The in-
gredients of this compost should be well mixed together, and broken
fine, but not sifted. They also require plenty of water, and abun-
dance of light and air; and they will all flower best when allowed
plenty of room for their roots. They are, however, very subject to
be attacked by a kind of aphis: and when kept in pots, they should
be frequently syringed. The best Calceolarias, near London, are
those of Mr. Catleugh at Chelsea.

Myrtles should be grown in a soil composed of peat and loam, in
which the former predominates; they should be regularly watered,
and frequently syringed. Some persons nip off the tips of the young
shoots, to make the plants grow bushy; and though it has this effect,
it is a bad practice with the flowering kinds, as it prevents them from
producing flowers. A better plan is to make cuttings, and first to
plant them in very small pots, gradually changing them into larger
ones, till the plants have acquired a bushy habit of growth.

Mimulus.—Some of the plants belonging to this genus are very
handsome, particularly the hybrids raised by the nurserymen from M.
ceardinalis, M. roseus, M. luteus, and M. gattatus. These species are all
herbaceous, and all natives of South America, Mexico, and Califor-
nia. They are all nearly hardy, and though generally grown in a
green-house, they will stand quite weil in the ojen air, dying down
to the ground in winter, but sending up fresh and very vigorous
shoots in spring. When these plants are grown in the open ground
it should be in a shady moist situation; and when they are kept in
pots, they should always stand in saucers half full of water. ‘'Vhis
water should, however, be changed every day, and when given to
the plants it should always be as nearly as possible of the same tem-
perature as themselves. The little musk plant, Mimulus moschata,
requires the same treatment as its more showy brethren. As all the

THE GREEN-HOUSE.—HYDRANGEA HORTENSIA. 93

species of Mimulus have been found in their native habitats grow-
ing in coarse sand or gravel on the brink of a river, this kind of soil
should be chosen for them in pots; and the soil in which they are
grown can hardly be too poor, provided they have abundance of
water. In Chili, the inhabitants eat the leaves asa kind of vegetable.
The shrubby kinds of Mimulus, viz., the common monkey plant,
M. luteus, and the scarlet-flowered species, M. puniceus, are now
considered to belong to a new genus called Diplacus. ‘They are
both natives of California; and in their treatment they should be con-
sidered as green-house plants, and have rather a better soil, and less
water, than the true kinds of Mimulus.

Hydrangea Hortensia is another plant, that when grown in a pot,
requires to have the saucer kept half full of water. ‘There are seve-
ral species, most of which are hardy shrubs, but Hydrangea Hor-
tensia, the kind usually called the Hydrangea, is a native of China,
and only half hardy, though it will live in the open air in sheltered
situations, or with a very slight protection. This plant was named
Iortensia by the botanist Commerson in compliment to Madame
Hortense Lapeaute, the wife of a French watch-maker. The Hy-
drangea, should be grown in a rich loamy soil, and pruned every
year; all the old wood being cut out, so that the wood which is to pro-
duce the flowering shoots should never be more than two or at most
three years old. Cuttings strike readily at any season when the
plant is in a growing state; if putinto a rich soil and kept moist, they
will root in a fortnight, and flower in a month. The flowers of the
Hydrangea, though generally pink, are sometimes blue ; and the art
of making them blue at pleasure, has long been a desideratum among
gardeners. A great number of recipes for this purpose have been
given in gardening books, but though all of them are occasionally
successful, none of them will ensure success. Sometimes transplant-
ing Hydrangeas that have been grown in loam into peat, will have
the desired effect; and at others, watering with water in which iron
has been steeped will change the colour of the flowers. The ferru-
ginous yellow loams of Hampstead Heath and Stanmore Common
are almost always efficacious, but even these have been known some-
times to fail. All that is known with certainty is, that the change
of colour is only a variation, and not permanent, as cuttings taken
from a blue Hydrangea, and planted in common soil, almost always
produce pink flowers.

94 THE GREEN-HOUSE.—MESEMBRYANTHEMUMS. -—CACTI,

Mesembryanthemums.—There are very few things in gardening
respecting which gardeners appear more to disagree than in the
treatment of succulent plants; particularly of the Mesembryanthe-
mums, which are mostly natives of the sandy plains near the Cape
of Good Hope, where they are subjected to alternate seasons of ex-
treme wet and extreme dryness. Cultivators attempting to imitate
these peculiarities, have grown these succulent plants in poor sandy
soil, and kept them entirely without water at one season, while they
have been inundated with it at another; but the fact is, that when we
attempt to imitate nature, we should remember that the attempt is
useless, unless we can do so in every particular ; and also that the plants
we have to cultivate, have been nursed up into so very artificial a
state, that if they were transplanted to their native plains they would
probably perish, like a poor Canary bird, which a mistaken philan-
thropy has turned out of the cage in which it has long lived. For
this reason, we must adopt the mode of treating succulents, which
the best gardeners find most successful, without troubling ourselves
to discover why it is so different from the natural habit of the plants.
This mode of treatment is, then, to grow the plants in a rich loamy
soil, kept open, as it is called, by the addition of lime rubbish; and
to give the plants water all the year, but more moderately when they
are in a dormant, than when they are in a growing state. They
should also have as much air and light as possible. The water
should never be suffered to stand in the saucer of any succulent
plant; but it should be given regularly, diminishing the quantity a
little every day as the season for rest approaches. If the water be
suddenly stopped, the leaves of the plants will shrink and become
flaccid, and when this is the case, the plant generally dies. A de-
ficiency of air on the other hand will cause the plant to damp off.
All Mesembryanthemums are very soon affected by frost; but will
drive in the open air in summer.

The Cacti, which are also succulent plants, are arranged in severil
auite distinct groups, which require different treatment. The first of
these comprises the various kinds of tree Cereus, which have long
slender stems, thirty or forty feet high, without either branches or
leaves. These singular looking plants grow on the summit of the
mountains of Brazil, in a poor, dry, stony soil, and exposed on every
side to the cold breezes of the lofty regions they inhabit. In Eng-
land, they should be kept in only green-house heat, even in winter;

THE GREEN-HOUSE.—AUSTRALIAN PLANTS, 95

and they should have abundance of light and air; while they should
be grown in pots well drained with cinders, and filled up with a
mixture of loam, and pounded brick and lime rubbish. The Mams-
malarias and Echinocacti, forming the group called the Porcupine
Cacti, grow in the valleys of the temperate regions, generally in
loamy soil, and among thick short grass, passing half their year in
continual rain. The Opuntias and Fereskias are found on almost
barren hills; the Opuntia, which is always known by its flat oval
leaves or rather stems, and its prickly but eatable fruit, growing in
narrow chinks among rocks where there does not appear sufficient
soil to nourish a blade of grass. In some cases these plants grow
nearly to the verge of perpetual snow. The Pereskias, which have
leaves distinct from their stems, grow in similar situations, and re-
quire only a moderate degree of heat; but the Melocacti and the
Rhipsalis are only found in the hottest part of the tropics.

All the Cacti should be grown in pots well drained with cinders,
and in soil composed of a little sandy loam mixed with lime rubbish.
They should all be watered regularly and abundantly when they are
growing, or coming into flower, and kept nearly dry during their sea-
son of repose; and they all enjoy having their pots plunged in a
slight hot-bed, which makes them throw out abundance of roots.

The Australian plants, of which so many beautiful kinds have
been introduced within the last few years, should nearly all be grown
in a mixture of sand and peat; and they should have their pots filled
one-third with potshreds. They all require abundance of water, but
they will all perish if water be retained about their roots. Most of
the Australian plants are very tenacious of life, and if cut down
when they appear dead, they will generally spring up again from the
collar of the root. ,

The principal climbing plants grown in pots are the Maurandyas,
‘the Lophospermums, the Passion-flowers, the Rhodochiton, the
Ecremocarpus, or Calempelis, the Ipomzas, and the Cobea. There
are, however, several others, all of which are very handsome. The
greater part of these require a rich light soil to make them grow rap-
idly, and to be planted in the grourd of the conservatory. The Big-
nonias or Tecomas should be grown in equal parts of loam and peat;
and this compost will suit the Polygalas, and other showy climbers.
The Sollyas and Billiardieras should be grown in peat and frequent-
ly syringed to keep off the green fly. The Thunbergias are very

#,

| 3

96 ‘CLIMBING PLANTS.

liable to be attacked by the red spider. Many of the shrubby climb-
ers may be treated as annuals, and raised from seed every year in
January, and planted out in June; but they do still better treated as
biennials, and sown one year to flower the next. |

All the most beautiful hot-house climbers, such as the Alifhenda
eathartica, the Ipomea Horsfalliz, Petreea volubilis, &c., may be
grown in the open air, by keeping their roots in heat; that is to say,
if the roots are grown in a stove, or in a pit heated by hot water or
flues to stove-heat, the stems may be brought through some opening
purposely contrived, and twined over a trellis inthe open garden. A
very striking effect may be thus produced by having a bed heated by
hot-water pipes concealed under ground, at the foot of a veranda,
over which these beautiful tropie _...«nbers may be trained. ©

>

_

:
N.

Al
4

COMPANION

a

ADIES’
LOWER-GARD

* ¥* . i ne '
”" or

PREFACE.

It is a common subject of complaint among amateur florists, that
the directions for the culture of flowers given in works on Gardening
are scattered through so many different volumes, and mixed with so
many other matters, as to be of comparatively little use to the
possessors of small gardens. Having felt this inconvenience my-
self, it occurred to me that a Dictionary of the English and botanic
names of the most popular flowers, with directions for their culture,
would be useful ; and the result is the present volume. The botanic
names are accented, to show on which syllable the emphasis is to
be laid; and every syllable must be pronounced, whether accented

,

or not. When the accent is acute, thus: a’, it signifies the con-
sonant following the vowel is to be taken into the syllable; and
when the accent is grave, thus: 4, that the vowel finishes the
syllable. Thus, Agave is pronounced A-ga-vé ; armata, ar-ma-ta ;
and decipiens, de-cip-i-ens.

J.W.L
‘Bayswater October, 1842.

*

~~

THE

LADIES’ COMPANION

TO

THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

Oe eee?

A.

ABUTILON.

A’srus. — Leguminose. — The
Wild Liquorice (A. precatorius) isa
pretty climbing stove plant, which
requires a strong heat to throw it
into fower. The seeds, which are
poisonous, are scarlet and black, and
are sometimes made into necklaces
for children.

Asu\tiLon. — Malvdacee. — The
herbaceous plants belonging to this
genus are scarcely worth cultiva-
ting, but there is a very beautiful
greenhouse plant called Abwutilon
stridtum, or Sida picta, that de-
serves a place in every collection.
It is a native of Brazil, and half-
shrubby, with vine-like leaves and
bell-shaped flowers of a bright yel-
low, strongly veined with scarlet,
which hang down on long slender
stalks. The plant should be grown
in a pot, a quarter filled with broken
potsherds, to ensure perfect drainage,
in a light sandy loam ; and it should
be trained to a slight frame: or it
may be planted in the open air, and
trained against a wall or trellis, as
it is nearly hardy, and only requires
protection from frost. It is some-
times also grown in a stove, where
it flowers abundantly, if allowed
plenty of moisture, though the whole

ACACIA

Aca‘cia. — Leguminose.— Most
persons understand by the word
Acacia, tall trees with pea-flowers,
which are natives of North Ame-
rica, and quite hardy in the open

-airin England. These trees, how-

ever, are the Locust trees, or false
Acacias, and belong to the genus
Robinia. The true Acacias are
what are called Wattle trees in
Australia, with flowers like balls or
spikes of down ; and as they require
protection from the frost in England,
they are generally treated in this
country as greenhouse shrubs. Above
three hundred species have been
introduced ; but only about thirty
are in Cultivation in’ British nurse-
ries, and nearly all these have been
figured in the botanical periodicals.
By far the greater part of the Aca-
cias grown in England are natives
of New Holland, and most of these
are nearly hardy; but some are

'from the East Indies and Arabia,

and most of these require a stove. —
Nearly all the kinds are evergreen ;
and the Australian species are very
valuable in greenhouses, because
they are in flower during winter.
In the open ground they flower in
March, April, May, and June. The

plant is much weaker than when | following kinds are the most com-

grown in a cooler temperature.

Ox

j}mon of the Australian Acacias in

ACACIA.

British nurseries :—A. armata, a
most useful plant for windows and
balconies, from its hardiness, its
compact, simple, dark green leaves,
or phyllodia, and the great abun-
dance of its yellow ball-like flowers ;
it requires care, however, in syring-
ing the leaves, as it is very apt to
be infested with insects: A. alata,
a curious species with winged stems ;
A. decipiens, with small angular
leaves; A. diffisa, a dwarf plant
with small flowers; A. hy brida,
very fragrant; A. longifolia, with
very long leaves, and the flowers
not in balls, but in long close spikes ;
A. pubéscens, a very elegant species
with drooping branches, bipinnate
leaves, and the ball-like flowers dis-
posed in racemes; A. nigricans,
with blackish green foliage ; A. ver-
ticillata, with the leaves like spines,
and disposed in whorls; A. lophan-
tha, with bipinnate leaves, and long
spike-like whitish flowers; A. deal-
bata, Cunningham, the A. affinis
of some, remarkable for the delicacy
of its foliage, and the whitish bloom
which covers its trunk and branches;
and A. melondzylon, the Black
Wood, or Black Wattle of the Aus-
tralians, the dilated petioles or phyl-
lodia of which lock like leaves, with
the real leaves, which are bipinnate,
attached to their extremities. Of
the other kinds of Acacia, the har-
diest are A. acanthocarpa, a native
of Mexico, with pale pink flowers
and spiny pods; and A. Julibrissin,
the Silk tree, a native of Persia, and
one of the most beautiful small trees
that can be imagined: the flowers
are like long silk tassels, and they
vary from a pale pink, or rose color,
to a delicate lilach ; but they seldom
attain perfection in the open air in
England for want of heat in our
summers, though they are extreme-
ly beautiful in Italy. Of the stove
species, the handsomest are A. spe-
cidsa, A. grandiflora, A. Houstoni,
and A. scandens; and they should

102

ACACIA.

all be kept in the coolest and most
airy part of the stove. A. véra, the
Gum Arabic tree, A. Catechu, from
the unripe pods of which is made
the substance called terra japonica,
and A. Senégal, the Gum Senegal
tree, are only interesting for their
products.

All the kinds of Acacia require
to be grown in sandy loan, or in a
mixture of sand, peat, and leaf-
mould, well drained. They are
generally propagated by imported
seeds (though some of the species
have ripened seed in this country ;)
and the seeds are sometimes two,
or even three years in the ground
before they come up. To hasten
their vegetation, they may be steep-
ed in very hot water, and left in
the water for several days, or in
oxalic acid and water, and some-
times even boiled for a minute or
two, or a little bit may be cut or
scraped off just at the scar on the
seed ; and when prepared by any
of these modes, they will generally
come up in about a week or a fort-
night. Acacias may also be pro-
pagated by cuttings; but as these
are rather difficult to strike, they
should be put into a pot filled with
pure white sand, covered closely
with a beil-glass, and then plunged
into a hotbed. ‘The tenderer spe.
cies may also be grafted on A. deal.
bata, A. lophantha, and A. melo-
noxylon, which appear to be the
hardiest kinds. All these three
species will generally spring up
again from the root, when killed
down to the ground by frost; and
whenever this is the case, it indi-
cates that the plants may be propa-
gated by cuttings of the roots, which
is frequently done with these Aca.
cias. All the roots of the Austra-
lian species smell like Garlic, and
this smell is very perceptible on en.
tering a room where any of these
plants are kept, if it has been shut
up fora few days. For this reason,

ACARUS.

103

=

ACHILLEA.

when Acacias are kept in a green-
house adjoining the living-rooms of
a house, care should be taken to
give the house abundance of venti-
lation ; and this is also very con-
ducive to the health of the plants.

Aca‘cta.—See Roginra, Mimosa,
and Inea.

AcantTuopur prium.—Orchidacee.
—A curious orchideous plant, which
may be grown in pots, in peat and
loam, allowing it a season of com-

plete rest, as soon as the leaves |

wither, by putting it in a cold house,
and withholding water for two or
three months, and then supplying it
abundantly with heat and moisture
when the plant begins to shoot.
Aca’nruus.— Acanthdacee.—Per-
ennial plants, natives of the warm
parts of Europe, two of which, A.
mollis and A. spindsus, deserve a

place in every collection, from their |

stately appearance, and from the
legend of their leaves having given
the first idea of the capital of the
Corinthian order of architecture.
All the kinds of Acanthus require
a sandy soil, anda good deal ofroom ;
and they are all readily increased
by division of the root, and by seeds.
The situations most suitable for a
large plant of Acanthus are near a
stone seat on a lawn, at the foot of
a block of stone introduced among
rockwork, or among classical ruins,
such as those at Virginia Waiter,
Windsor, &c. In a garden at
Hammersmith, a fine effect was pro-
duced, some years since, by a noble
plant of Acdnthus spindsus spring-
ing from the base of a shattered pe-
destal, and half concealing the
broken statue that had fallen from it.

A’carus——A genus of small in-
sects or mites. A’carus telarius, the
red spider, is one of the most trou-
blesome of all insects to gardeners,
particularly in the bark-stove, as it
breeds in the bark. When first

yellowish green, and it spins its web
on the under side of the leaves. As
it gets older, it becomes of a brown-
ish red. It bas eight legs, and be-
longs to the spider family ; but it is
provided with a kind of proboscis
or rostrum, with which it sucks the
juices of the leaves it lives upon, and
soon withers them; thus spoiling
both fruit and flowers, as neither
can attain perfection unless the sap
that nourishes them has been prop.
erly elaborated in the leaves. It is
very difficult to destroy this insect,
as tobacco-smoke, and the other

‘remedies generally used against it,

appear to have very little effect.
Sprinkling with cold water will some-
times destroy it; but, as the insect
is generally produced by keeping
the plants too hot, and not allowing
them sufficient air, the best remedy
appears to be to set all the hothouse

| plants in the open ground during the

months of July and August, plung-
ing the pots ina bed of dung, de-
cayed leaves, or tan, and well ven-
tilating and cleaning the houses
while they are empty.

ACHILLE’ s. — Compésite.—The

| plants belonging to this genus are

known under their English name
of Milfoil. Most of them have no
great beauty, but they are of very
vigorous growth, and will thrive in
any soil or situation, bearing either
smoke or ccld without any visible
change. They are also suitable
plants for balconies or boxes, as they
are not easily injured either by too
much watering, or by being kept
teo dry. The most ornamental of
the vigorous-grewing kinds are
Archilléa tomentosa, the woolly Mil.
foil, with yellow flowers, and A. ta.
nacetifolia with red flowers. Of
the more delicate species, A. Cla~
vénne, the silvery-leaved Milfoil,
with large white flowers, is a very
pretty little plant for rockwork ; but

hatched, this little creature is scarce- | it is rather difficult to keep, uniess
ly perceptible, as its colour is of a|it be grown in a dry soil and a

Oo

ACONITUM.

shady situation. A. atirea, which

scarcely grows half a foot high, and.

has rich yellow flowers, which it
produces in great profusion, is very
suitable tor edgings to beds and bor-
ders; as well as for growing in pots
and on rockwork. ‘The last species |
grows freely in any soil that is tol-

erably dry ; and they are all readily |

increased by division of the root.

AcuIME‘NEs.—A name new ap-
plied to the genus Trevirana, some
new species of which have been
lately introduced from Guatemala.
—For the culture see Trevira‘na.

A‘cis.—The new name for some
of the kinds of Snowflake—See
LeEvucosum.

Aconitum. — Ranunculaceae. —

/Monkshood and Wolfsbane.—Her-
/ baceous perennials, chiefly natives

of Europe, but partly of North’
America and Japan. ‘They are all,
hardy in British gardens, and they |
are generally tall-growing handsome
plants, producing abundance of dark-
blue, purple, or yellow flowers. They

will all grow freely in any common |

garden soil, and are readily increased
by division of the roots, which are
generally tuberous, or by seeds. All
the species are more or less poison-
ous, the poison being strongest in
the root. Like all plants which
grow with tall erect stems, and pro-
duce their flowers in terminal spikes,
they are only suitable for growing
in borders in large gardens, or for
clumps on a lawn. The species
may be divided into two kinds:
those with the helmet like a monk’s
cowl, which are called Monkshood ;

and those which have an elongated |

conical helmet, and are called Wolfs-
bane. Of this first division the
handsomest species are A. Napellus,
the common Monkshood, with pur-
ple flowers; and A énthora, the
yellow Monkshood. Of the Wolfs- |
pune the handsomest species are A.
burbatum, with pale yellow flowers,

and A. australe, a beautiful plant |

104

ADLUMIA.

| with dark purple flowers tipped with

mountains.

Aconire, Winter.—See WINTER
ACONITE.

A'cynos.—Labiate.—A perennial
plant somewhat resembling Thyme
A. vulgaris, the only ornamental
species, is a native of Europe, not
above six inches high, and of easy
culture in any common soil.

Avam’s Negepie.—See Yo'cca.

Apenoca’rpus.—-Leguminose.—
A genus of hardy shrubs, with yel-
low pea-flowers resembling those of
_the Broom. ‘These plants were for-
merly included in Cytisus.

ApENo’pHora. — Campanuldcee.
—Perennial plants with blue bell
shaped flowers, resembling the Cam-
panulas. They require to be planted
in rich but light soil, and are easily
killed by much moisture. They are
natives of Siberia, and are propa-
| gated by division of the root.

Avu’sm1a, Dec.—Leguminose.—
Herbaceous plants and shrubs with
yellow pea-like flowers, growing
freely in the open air in any com-
mon soil.

Aptia/ntum. — Cryptogamia. —
| Maiden-hair, a kind of Fern.

Apuu'm1a. — Fumaridcee. — A
| climbing biennial, with pinkish flow-
ers like those of the Fumitory. It
is a native of North America, and

will grow in any common soil. The
seeds should be sown in autumn, and
the young plants kept in pots ina
green-house or frame, for planting
out in spring. Thus treated, and
trained to a trellis or wire frame,
they will begin to flower in June,
and will continue producing abun-
|dance of flowers during the whole
|summer. [In this climate, if the
seeds of this graceful climber are
sown in the common border, near a
trellis or arbour, in May, the plants
will flower finely, without any fur-
ther care, the following season—
Ep.]

green, a native of the Carpathian ©

AESCULUS.

j . |
‘' Apo\n1s.—Ranunculacee.—Her-
Ypaceous plants with showy flowers, |

natives of Europe, of easy culture
in any common soil.

the spring-flowering Adonis, a per-
ennial with bright yellow flowers,
which is quite hardy, and is easily
increased by division of the root;
and A. autumnailis, the common

annual Flos Adonis, or Pheasant’s |

Eye, with dark crimson flowers.
All the species will grow in any

common garden soil; and the an-|

nual kinds should be sown in au-
tumn, as they will stand the winter
in the open air,—or in February or
March, as they are a long time be-
fore they come up. The seeds will |
keep good several years.

#icrpium—A kind of fungus)
which is sometimes found on the |
leaves of plants belongmg to the
genus Pyrus.

AERIDE's.— Orchidaceae. — Stove
epiphytes, natives of the East In-|
dies, with whitish flowers that have
the odour of the Tuberose. They
should be grown on moss, and sus-
pended from the rafters of a very
damp hothouse.

fEscuyna'ntuus, Jack.; Incar-
VILLEA, Rox. — Cyrtandracee. —
Stove parasitical shrubs, growing
four or five feet high, natives of
India, where they are found in moist,
shady woods, hanging from tree to
tree, and producing large bunches
of their showy orange scarlet flow-
ers. In England they should be
grown in moss, or in vegetable mould
and sand, and they should be allow-
ed abundance of heat and moisture.
They are very difficult to propagate.

£i'scuLus.— Afsculdcee. — Most
of the Horse-chestnuts are too large
trees to be admitted into a work

like the present ; but the red-flower-

ed Horse-chestnut (4%. rubictinda)
and its varieties are seldom above
twelve or fifteen feet high, and they
are therefore very suitable for a

105

The most.
ornamental species are A. verndiis, |

AGAPANTHUS.

shribbery. The most beautiful vari-
ety is Whitley’s Scarlet. These
trees should be grown in a sheltered
situation, or they will not flower
well. For the yellow-flowered Horse-
chestnut, see Pavia.

Arrican Liny.—See Acapa’n-
THUS.

Arrican Maricotp.—See Ta-
GE‘TES.

Acapa’ntHus. — Hemerocallidd-

'ce@a.—The Blue African Lily, A.
'umbellatus, is a noble plant with a
bulbous root, somewhat resembling
‘that of a Leek; and it retains its
leaves all the winter. There is a
| variety with striped leaves. A. aibi-
| dus has white flowers, but it does
not differ from the common kind in
any other respect. The African
Lilies all require a loamy soil, en-
riched with very rotten manure from
an old hotbed loosely shaken down
;in the pot, but not pressed; and
| they should be fully exposed to the
light. They should also have plenty
| of water when they are in a grow-
ing state ; and they should be shifted
repeatedly into larger and larger
pots, each only a little larger than
the preceding one, taking off the
offsets every time, if any should be
found, till the flower-buds are form-
ed. The plants are always very
large before they flower; and whet:
the flower-buds form, they should
be in a large pot, so that the roots
may have plenty of room; and they
should be abundantly supplied with:
water, taking care, however, not ti
let any remain in a stagnant state
about the roots. ‘Thus treated, and
kept in a greenhouse or living-room,
or under a veranda, this plant will
frequently send up a flower-stalk
| above three feet high, crowned with
‘twenty or thirty heads of flowers,
which will come into blossom in
succession. When in flower, it may
be placed in the open air, and forms
a noble ornament to an architec-
tural terrace, or a fine object on a

i

AGAVE. 106 AJUGA.

lawn. If the Agapanthus is wanted |
to flower when of a comparatively |
small size, it should not be so often |
shifted; and when it is, the pots,
need not be so nearly of a size:
once shifting in spring will, indeed,
be enough ; and if the roots are so
large as to require a pot of incon-
venient size (for the roots must have
plenty of room), the bulb may be
divided, and the strongest of the
fibrous roots cut off, without injur-
ing the plant, or preventing it from
flowering.

Agea’ricus—A genus of Fungi, of
the Mushroom kind, but generally
poisonous.

Acatuo’smMa.—See Drio’sma, from
which the plants composing the
genus Agathosma have been sepa-
rated.

Aca\ve.—Amaryllidace@.—Suc-
culent plants from South America,
of which one species, the American
Aloe, A. americana. and a varie-
gated-leaved variety of it, are old |
inhabitants of British gardens ; hav-
ing been formerly kept in tubs in
the orangery or in some other house
during winter, and set out during
summer. The large leaves of the
Agave render it by no means adapt- |
ed for a small greenhouse ; but as it
only requires protection from frost,
it may be kept during the winter
in a shed where there is very little
light till summer, when it may be
set out on a lawn or terrace, giving
it very little water while in a state
of repose. ‘This mode of treatment
may be applied to all succulent
plants that are dormant during our
winters. The American Aloe re-

according to the climate, and tlie
care bestowed on the plant by the
gardener. ‘The flower-stem is fre-
quently forty feet high, and the

|plant dies as soon as it has done

flowering. The Aloe is a native of
Mexico, and the other tropical parts
of America; but it has been almost
naturalized in the south of Europe.
In its native countries, a strong
spirit is distilled from its sap; the
fibres of its leaves are used for
thread, and the feculent matter con-
tained in its stem for soap.
AGERA‘TUM, — Composite —Mex- ,

ican annuals, with curious heads {~

of small pale blue flowers. The
seeds should be sown in a warm
border in a light soil in April or
May.

Acroste’mMa.—Caryophyllacee.
—The Rose Campion.—This genus 4
and that of Lychnis have been so
strangely mixed up together, that
it is difficult to know what plants
belong to each. The showy green-
house plant generally called Lych-
nis Bungedna, and the pretty little
annual LL. le‘ta, are now removed
to Agrostemma ; while, on the con-
trary, A. Celi-rosa and A. Flos Jovis
have been taken from Agrostemma
and given to Lychnis. ‘The Corn-
cockle, A. Githago, is also now
Githago segetum’ but the Rose
Campion is still called Agrosiemma
coronaria. All the species of the
genus, both annuals and perennials,
are quite hardy, and will grow in
any common garden soil.

Am Puants—See Orcurprous
EpipryTeEs.

A'yax.—One of the genera formed

quires a rich loamy soil, and is| by Mr. Haworth, out of Narcissus,

increased by suckers. It was for-
merly supposed that it produced its
candelabra-like blossoms only once
in a hundred years; but this is a
vulgar error, as it sometimes pro-

duces its flowers, in hot countries,

in ten years, the period varying to | sion of the roots.

but not generally adopted by bota-
nists.

Asu‘ca.— Labidte.—The Bugle.
—Well-known plants generally with
dark blue flowers, always growing
in dry soil, and increased by divi-

A. Chamepitys,

twenty, fifty, or even seventy years, | the Ground-pine, has yellow flowers.

ALLIUM.

107

ALOE.

*A LaATE’/RNUS.—See Rua/MNus.

Ausu'ca.— Asphodélee.— Pretty
Cape bulbs, with white flowers re-
sembling the Star of Bethlehem.
For culture, see ORNITHA/GALUM.

Aucuemr'LLa. — Rosdcee. — La- |
dy’s Mantle—Hardy herbaceous |
plants, chiefly natives of the middle |
of Europe, of the easiest culture. |
The most ornamental! species is A. |
alpina, which seldom exceeds half |
a foot in height, with leaves of a}
deep green above, of a silky white-
ness underneath, and with greenish
yellow flowers. It is admirably
adapted for rockwork, or growing
in pots.

Aue rris.— Hemerocallidacee.— |
Colic-root.—A_ little queer-lookin
perennial, with white flowers, from
North America, about half a foot
high, and requiring peat soil, and a
shady situation. It is propagated |
by offsets or seeds.

ALEXANDRIAN
Ruscvs.

ALKEKENGI.—See NIcANDRA.

AxismMa.—See Limnocuaris.

ALKANET.—See Nonea.

Aubama'npA. — Apocynécee. —

Climbing steve shrubs, with splen-
did yellow convolvulus-shaped flow- |
ers. A. cathartica,a native of Gui- |
ana, is the most common species. ;
They require a light rich soil, kept |
frequently watered; and they are:
increased by cuttings. Where a!
conservatory adjoins an orchideous |
house, or stove, the Allamanda and
other splendid stove-climbers may
“be planted in the hothouse, and |
trained through a hole in the back
wall into the conservatory, in the |
cool air of which the flowers will |
be more brilliant, and more gener-
ally seen, than in the damp hot air
necessary for the roots.

A’tuium. — Asphodélea. — The |
Garlic and Onion tribe, of which
there are above a hundred and fifty
species in cultivation, natives of
Europe and America, some few of |

LaurEL. — See

| which are considered ornamental,

and one, A. oddérum, is sweet-scent-
ed. Among the ornamental species
are A. Moly, with yellow flowers;
A, descéndens, with dark purple
flowers; A. incarndtum, with red
flowers ; and A. Cowani, A. Chame-
moly, and A. neapolitdnum, with
white flowers. All the species thrive
in any common soil, and are in-
creased abundantly by offsets from
the bulbs. In a garden devoted ex-
clusively to bulbs, the Alliums form
a large and important group, from
the great variety and different
colours of the flowers; but they
differ from almost all other orna-
mental plants, as they do not admit

| of being gathered, and put into nose-

gays, on account of their unpleasant
smell.

ALLSPICE-TREE.—See CaLycaN-
THUS.

Atmonp.—See AMYGDALUS.

Axror.—Hemerocalliddcee.—-The

|name of Aloe is so frequently ap-

plied in conversation to the Ameri-
can Aloe, or Agave, that many per-
sons are not aware that the true
Aloe is not only quite a different
genus, but belongs to a different
natural order; the American Aloe
being one of the Amaryllis tribe,
and the true Aloe one of the Day-
lily tribe. The qualities of the two
jlants are also essentially different:
he American Aloe abounds in
starchy nourishing matter, while
every part of the true Aloe is pur-
gative. ‘The true Aloe also flowers
every year, and the flowers are
tube-shaped, and produced on a
spike; while each plant of the
American Aloe flowers but once,
sending up an enormous fiower-stem,
with candelabra-like branches and
cup-shaped flowers. The true Aloes
are succulent plants, natives of the
Cape of Good Hope; and they

' grow best in this country in green-

houses, or rooms, the pots being
well drained, and the soil composed

ALOE.

ALOYSIA.

*
* ” |
of a e leam, mixed with a litle

lime-rubbish or gravel.
when the plants are wanted to at-
tain a large size, may be added a
little leaf-mould. When grown in
rooms, the poor soil is, however,
preferable, as it keeps the plants of
a smaller and more manageable

size, and makes them less easily af. |

fected by changes of the tempera-
ture, and of heat and dryness. The
coleurs of the flowers will also be
richer when the plants are grown
in poor scil. ‘The drug called aloes

is made principally from the pulp |
of the fleshy leaf of the Aloe Soc- |
votrina, the flowers of which are |

red, tipped with green: but it is al-
so made from several other species.
A. vulgaris, sometimes called A.
barbadénsis, has
flowers; and the Partridge-breast

Aloe, A. variegita, has variegated |

leaves. All the kinds should be
frequently watered when they are

orange-yellow |

To this, |

shallow, in a pot of sandy soil, and
giving it very little water. In the

course of a few months, one or sey-

in a growing state and abcut to}

flower; but the water that runs
through the mould in the pot should
always be poured directly out of the
saucer; as if water be allowed to
remain ina stagnant state about
the roots, the leaves will rot and
drop off. It is to prevent water
lodging round the crown of the
plant, which would produce the
same eifect, that gravel or lime rub-
bish should always be mixed with
the soil. When the plants have
done flowering, water should be
given to them very sparingly, not
oftener than once a month; and
they should be kept ina dry, warm
situation, where they will have
plenty of light; as in this respect
also they differ from the Agave,
which may be kept during the win-
ter almost in darkness. ‘The Aloe
is generally propagated by offsets
or suckers ; but in some instances it
may be increased by stripping off a
leaf, letting it dry for a day or two,
and afterwards planting it, quite

eral buds will be found formed at
the base of the leaf, and roots being
thrown down from the same point,
a new plant will be produced.
Atonso‘a. — Scrophularinee. —
The Mask-flower.—The species are
low under-shrubs, or herbaceous
plants, natives of Peru; and two
of them, A. incisifolia, R. et P., and
A. linearis, H. K., formerly known
as Celsia, afierwards as Hemi-
meris urticifolia, &c., are very or-
namental either in the greenhouse,
or grown as annuals in the open
border during summer. They thrive
well in any light rich scil, and are
readily inereased by seeds or cut-
tings. They are very desirable for
flower-gardens, on account of the
brilliant scarlet of their flowers ; and
where there is no greenhouse, the
plants should be raised from seeds,
sown on a hotbed in February, er
struck from cuttings early in spring,
and brought forward in a frame or
pit, and turned out into the open
airin May. When kept in a green-

house they should always be set

out in the open air when the other

plants are fumigated, as they are

easily killed by tobacco-smoke, or

any other strongly-smelling vapour.

They are also very apt to rot, or

damp off, as it is called, at the col-

lar, if they have too much moisture,

though ihe roots soon become dried
up and withered if they have too
little. Though the stems of some
of the species are quite woody at
the base, they seldom live, even
with the greatest care, longer than
two or three years.

Axo’ysia. — Verbendcee. — The
only species of this genus known
in Britain is A. citriodéra, a native
of South America, formeriy called
Verbéna triphylla, or the Lemon-
scented Verbena. Itis a half-hardy
shrub, with panicles of small pink-

ALSINE.

109

w

ALSTREMERIA.

ish-white flowers, and very fragrant | genus Alsine appear a been

leaves, which fall off in the winter.
It requires a rich but light soil, well

drained ; and when grown in pots, |

it should never have water kept in
the saucer. In winter, after its
leaves have dropped, it should be
kept nearly dry till the buds begin
to swell, when it should be watered
frequently and abundanily, but the
water should never be suffered to
remain in a stagnant state about
the roots. It is easily propagated
by cuttings, and only requires to be
protected from severe frosts.
AtprinE Piants.—Dwarf plants,
natives of high mountains, and usu-
ally with bmght-coloured flowers ;
generally employed for ornamental
rockwork, and which, as they are
covered with snow during winter in |
—their native countries, require pro-
tection from severe frosts.
Axpi'nta.-—Scitaminee.—-A genus |
of reed-like plants, natives of the |
East Indies and South America,
with large and showy white or pink |
flowers, of which one or two species |
merit a place in select collections of
stove plants. A. nttans is one of | |
the most common, and when grown |
in rich sandy soil, in a moist heat,
with plenty of room, it will flower
freely. Like most of the other |
Scitamineous genera, there is a con- |
siderable degree of sameness in all |
the species, both in flowers and fruit, |
and therefore one kind is enough for
a small collection.
Ausi'nE.—-Caryophylldacee.-—This
genus was founded on the Chick- |
weed (Alsine media), and it con-
tained four or five weedy-looking
species. It also gave a name to
one of the sections of Caryophyl-
lacee ; the plants belonging to that |
order which have the sepals of the
calyx distinct being said to belong
to Alsinee, and those which have.
their sepals united into a tube at the |
base are said to belong to Silénee. |
The species which composed the |
10

|nearly all distributed among other

genera, and even the Chickweed is
now called Stellaria media.
ALsTReME'RIA.—Amarylliddcee.
— This is a genus of tuberous-rooted
plants, with beautiful flowers, na.
tives of South America, and capable
of being grown to a high degree of
perfection in British gardens, in the
stove, greenhouse, or open air, ac-
cording to the species. The soil
which suits all the Alstremerias is
a mixture of sandy loam and leaf-
mould, or well-rotted dung. Of all
the stove species, A. Ligtu, with
white and scarlet flowers, is the
most difficult to flower ; but by giv-
ing it abundance of water during
summer, and a strong heat in De-
cember, it will flower in February ;
and one plant will scent a whole

; house with fragrance like that of

Mignonette. After flowering, the
plants ought to be allowed to rest
for three months, during which time
very little water ought to be given
to them. After this they should be
repotted, and encouraged to grow,
by giving them plenty of water,
&c. A. edulis, Jus. is another stove
species, which climbs to the height
of ten or twelve feet, and, like all
other climbers, thrives best when
turned out into the cpen border. It
may, however, be grown in a pot,
commencing with one of small size,
and shifting it several times, till it
is at last put into a pot of eight or
nine inches in diameter, when a
frame of wire, three feet or four feet
high, may be fixed to the pot, and
the stems trained over it. These
species will live and flower in a
greenhouse, but not so freely as ina
stove. The treatment of the green-
house species of Alstremeria, con
sists in setting the plants to rest by
withholding water after they have
done flowering, which is generally
about the end of July ; fresh potting
them about October or November,

ALTHAA.

110

ALYSSUM.

aud giving them plenty of heat and
water during April and May, the
time when their growth is most.
rapid, and when, from the brittle- |
ness of their shoots, and the tender-
ness of their leaves, they require to
be sheltered or shaded from the sun |
and wind. The climbing species,
A. acutifolia. L. et O., A. hirtélla, |
Kunth, and A. salsélla, L., succeed |
best, both in flowering and ripening
seeds, when planted in the border
of a conservatory, or in the front of
a stove or greenhouse, close under
the wall, with protection during se-
vere weather. Several of the spe-
cies from Mexico, Chili, and Peru |
will live in the open air in similar |
situations ; and the greater part of
these will grow luxuriantly, and in
fine seasons will flower freely, pro- |
ducing flowers of a much darker
colour than those which have been
grown under glass, and they will
even ripen seeds. ‘Those species |
which have been found to succeed
best in the open air, are A. pulchélla, |
Sims, A. pelegrina, L., and A. ver-
stcolor, R. et P. All the species
are readily increased by parting the
roots, or by seeds.

Axtracona.—See CaraGana.

Autiza.—-Malvacee.—The Holly
hock.—Strong herbaceous plants,
natives of the middle and south of
Europe, and also of India and China,
of which one species, A. rdsea, the
common Hollyhock, is one of our)
most splendid ornamental biennials. |
lt grows to the height of from five to
eight feet ; and there are varieties of |
almost every colour, including white,
and purple so deep as to be almost
black. The flowers being large,
and the stems erect, the plants have
the best effeet when grown in rows
at the back of a border; or when
one or two are planted along with
round-headed plants—for example,
with the French Honeysuckle, the
annual Chrysanthemums, or any of
the Sweet Peas, if trained to form |

a bush: but the Hollyhock produces
its best effect when each plant rises
by itself from a circular patch in a
lawn. An avenue of Hollyhocks,
without any other flowering plants,
is also very grand and ornamental,
especially if the background on each
side of the avenue be a hedge of
Laurel or some other evergreen
shrub, The fine effect of the Holly-
hock with such a background is
nowhere better seen than at Drop-
more. The seeds of Hollyhock,
which is a biennial, should be sown
in March; in April, when the plants
come up, they should be thinned
out and then suffered to remain till
September, when they should be
transplanted to the place where
they are. to flower. As the Holly-
hock requires a rich and strong soil,
it will be advisable, if the general
soil of the garden be not of that
nature, to dig a pit two feet in di-
ameter, and two feet deep, which

| should be filled with equal parts of

good strong loam, and thoroughly
rotten dung, chopped up and well
mixed together with the spade.
When the pit is filled, the earth
should be allowed a few days to ~
settle, and then filled up to the
general level of the garden; after
which the young Hollyhocks should
be planted in it, singly, if the plants
be very strong, and three together

if they should be weak. When the

flower-stem appears, it should be
tied toa stake, if not strong enough
to support itself.
AttH#s Frutrex.—See Hinr's-:
cus.
_Aty'ssum. — Crucifere. — Mad-

| wort.—Herbaceous plants, both per-

ennial and annual, of low growth,
and with showy flowers; chiefly
natives of Europe. A. sazdtile,
which grows about a foot high, and
which produces its yellow flowers
in April, is one of the most orna-
mental of the perennial species, and
is well adapted either for rockwork

AMARANTH.

or pots; as is A. delioideum, L.,
(Aubriétia delioidea, Dec.,) which
has purple flowers. The Sweet

lyssum, A. halimifolium, or A.
calycinum, now called Kéniga ma-
ritima, which has white flowers, is
well adapted for edgings to beds.
A. saxdtile, and all the other peren-
nial and shrubby species, are placed
by some botanists in a new genus
called Adyseton; but this genus is
not generally adopted. All the
species are of the easiest culture in
common soil, if not kept too moist ;
but they thrive best in sand or gravel.
The perennial species are readily
increased by cuttings planted under
a hand-glass, and the annual ones
by seeds. Though the perennial
species are very hardy, yet as they
are in truth not true perennials, but

plants with half-shrubby or suffru- |

ticose stems, they are apt to be in-
jured by either severe winters or
very hot summers, (for, though in-
jured by much wet, the roots will
soon wither if they are kept too dry,)
and consequently they require to be
renewed every three or four years.

Amara’ntTuHus. — Amaranthdcee.
—An extensive genus of annuals,
chiefly natives of warm climates,
most of which will flower in the
open air in this country, if sown in
February on a hotbed, and planted
out in May. The most common
species are A. hypochondriacus, the
Prince’s Feather, and A. caudatus,
Love-dies-bleeding, both old inha-
bitants of British gardens, and of
the easiest culture. A. tricdlor isa
greenhouse annual, chiefly remark-
able for the red and white blotches
in the centre of its leaves. The
leaves of all the species may be
used as spinach, and they are so
employed in China.

AmarantH.—The Amaranth of
the poets is generally supposed to
be the Globe Amaranth. —See
GomPHreE'NA.

Amary'Luis.— Amarylliddcee.—

111

AMAR*“LLIS.

| Bulbous plants, chiefly natives of
| the Cape of Good Hope and South
| America; but which have been in-
creased in number tenfold by hyb-
rids and varieties raised in Eng-
land. All the kinds are eminently
/ornamental, and they are all of
easy culture; the great secret being
to give them alternately a season
of excitement and a season of re-
pose. To do this effectually, the
plants should be abundantly sup-
plied with water and heat, and
placed near the glass when they
are coming into flower, and water
should be withheld from them by
degrees, when they have done
flowering, till they have entirely
ceased growing ; when they should
be kept quite dry, and in a state of
rest. When in this state they may
be placed in any obscure part of a
stove or greenhouse where it is dry,
and of a temperature net under
forty or fifty degrees. If kept in
such a situation during winter, some
kinds may be turned out into a
warm border in spring, where they
will flower; and if the season be
fine, they will renew their bulbs in
time to be taken up before the ap-
proach of frost. The chief value
of these plants, however, is to pro-
duce flowers in the winter season,
which they readily do if they are
kept dry and dormant during the
latter part of the summer and au-

tumn. Indeed, by having a large

stock of these bulbs, a regular suc-

cession of flowers might be procured

during every month in the year.

When the dormant bulbs are intend-

ed to be thrown into flower, they
| should be fresh potted in sandy loam

and leaf-mould, and put into a stove
or hotbed, the heat beginning at
fifty degrees, and ascending to sixty
or seventy degrees ; and when the
leaves appear, they should be sup-
plied abundantly with water. Where
seeds are wanted, the watering must
be continued, though somewhat less

—_—

AMELANCHIER. 1 12 “

abundantly, after the flowers have
faded, till the seeds are ripe; and |
when these are gathered, they ought |
to be sown immediately in light
sandy loam, and placed in a frame,
or near the glass, in a moist part of
the hothouse. If the young plants
are potted off as soon as they are
an inch or two in height, and shift-
ed frequently in the course of the
growing season, they will attain a
flowering size in from fifteen to
twenty months. The pots in which
these and all other bulbs are grown,
ought to be thoroughly drained by
a handful or more of potsherds
(broken pots) laid in the bottom of
each pot, and covered with turfy
peat; and the mould used should
also be turfy, in order the more
freely to admit the passage of wa-
ter. [Our long and warm summers
enable us to cultivate many of these
beautiful bulbs in the open air,
merely protecting the roots in the
winter in the same manner as those
of the Dahha. A. rittdta, A. for-

“)mossissima, and several others of

the most showy species, when plant-
ed out in rich borders about the first
of May, are among the most bril-
liant ornaments of the flower gar-
den.— Ep.]
Amperso'a, Dec.—Composite.—
| Sweet or Yellow Suitan.—Weil-
“/ known half-hardy annuals, natives
' of Persia, formerly included in the
genus Centaurea; the seeds of
which may be sown in the open
border in April or May.
Ampro'sta.— Composite. -Weedy
annual plants of no beauty, very
small greenish flowers, and cut
leaves, which, when bruised, have
rather an agreeable smell. Though
among the annuals in some of the
old seed catalogues, they are now
scarcely ever grown except in bo-
tanic gardens.
Ame va’NcHIER.— Rosdce@e.—De-
ciduous shrubs or low trees, with
showy white flowers, which appear

AMORPHA+s

in April. A. vulgaris and A. bo-
tryapium, the Snowy Mespilus,
(formerly called Méspilus canadén-
sis,) are very desirable species for
shrubberies. ‘They are commonly
propagated by grafting on the Haw-
thorn, and they will grow in any
soil, and require very little pruning.
Like other rosaceous shrubs, how-
ever, they are very liable to have
their foliage injured by caterpillars.

Ame'iius, Dec.—Composite.—
There are only two species, one a
greenhouse perennial, and the other
an aster-like annual, Améllus dn-
nuus, which was formerly called
Kaulfissia amellotdes, and which
is a very pretty little plant, being
remarkable from the curious rolling
up of its petals. Both species are
natives of the Cape, and will not
grow in loam without the addition
of sand.

American ALorn.—See Aca\ve.

American ConvoLvuLus. — See
CaALysTeE'GIA.

American Cowsiip.—See Done .
ca ‘THEON.

Ametry’stea. — Labicte. — An
annual plant with blue flowers; a
native of Siberia, of easy culture
in any soil or situation, except that
it will not bear transplanting unless
when very young.

Ammo‘zium.—-Composite.—-A kind
of Everlasting flower, with a yellow
disk and white ray like a Daisy. A
native of New South Wales, where
it was found growing in pure sand.
It is generally grown from seeds as
an annual ; but by striking cuttings,
it may be kept two or three years.

Amo’rpua.— Leguminise.— De-

| ciduous shrubs, with pinnate leaves,

from North America, varying from
two to six feet in height, with showy
dark blue and orange flowers in
terminal spikes. A. Lewisii has
flowers of gold and purple of great
beauty when examined closely. All
the species are of comparatively
short duration; their wood being

#

AMPHICOME.

113

ANAGALLIS. |

soft, with a large proportion of pith,
and their branches very liable to be
broken off by high winds: in other
respects they are of easy culture in
sandy soil, and they are readily
propagated by cuttings or layers.
Indigo is made from the pulpy part
of the leaves of A. indigofera, an
East Indian species.

Ampeto'psis, Mx. — Vitacee. —
A. hederdcea is weil known by its
English names of Virginian Creeper,
and Five-leaved Ivy. Its flowers
have no beauty, but it is worth cul-
tivating as an ornamental plant,
from the brilliant scarlet which its
leaves assume in autumn; and
which look particularly well at that
season, when intermingled with those
of the common Ivy, from the fine
contrast they afford. The plant is
of very rapid growth in any com-
mon soil, and it is propagated by
layers or cuttings. [The Virginian
Creeper is one of our finest indige-
nous climbers. It grows very rap-
idly, attaches itself firmly to wood or
stone buildings, or to the trunks of
old trees, and soon covers these ob-
jects with a fine mantle of rich ver-
dure. Nothing can be more admi-
rably adapted than this plant for
concealing and disguising the un-
sightly stone fences which are so
common, and so great a deformity
‘nm many parts of the United States.
—Ep.]

Ampui'comE, Royle.—Bignonia-
cee.—A very beautiful Nepal green-

. house perennial, with tube-shaped

pink flowers. It may be propagated
by either seeds or cuttings, though
the first are sometimes two years
before they vegetate, and the cut-
tings are very difficult to strike.
The soil it is grown in should be |
loam, mixed with peat and sand;
and to make it flower well, very
little water should be given to it
from the time of the leaves dying
down, till the young shoots appear
in spring.

10*

Amy’epaLus.— Rosdcee@.—Thera
are two species of Almonds which
are highly ornamental, on account
of their flowers: A. ndna, which
does not grow above two feet high,
and produces its pink-flowers in
March; and A. commtnis, which
forms a small deciduous tree, pro-
fusely covered with flowers, in
March and April, before it expands
its leaves. ‘There are several va-
rieties of both species, but the only
one which is worth notice is the
large-flowered Almond, A. c. ma-
crocarpa, which has much larger
flowers than the common kind,
though they are much paler. The
dwarf Almond is propagated by
suckers, and the other species and
varieties by grafting on the common
Plum. What is generally known
in gardens as the double-dwarf Al-
mond, is now called by botanists
Cerasus, or Prinus japonica. When-
ever the tree Almond is planted for
its flowers, care should be taken to
let it have a background of ever-
greens ; as otherwise, from the flow-
ers being produced before the leaves,
half their beauty will be lost from
the cold and naked appearance of
the tree. All the Almonds will grow
and blossom freely in the smoke of
London.

Anaca'Lus.—Primuldécee.—The
Pimpernel. — Trailing herbaceous
plants, natives of the middle and
‘south of Europe. The common
wild Pimpernel, A. arvénsis, is red ;
| but the exotic species vary to seve-
'ral shades of purple, lilach, and blue.
The finest species is A. Monélli,
which requires the protection of the
greenhouse during winter, but which
forms a beautiful close covering for
a flower-bed in the open garden in
summer, producing its fine mazarine
blue flowers from May to Septem-
ber. It is easily propagated by cut-
tings, which root immediately, in
sand under a hand-glass, and it will
| thrive in any light soil.

—s

- ANDROSACE.

114

ANEMONE.

Ancuu'sa.— Boraginee.—Coarse-
growing plants, annuals and peren-
nials, natives of the south of Europe,
and in part of Asia and Africa, re-
markable for their intensely blue
flowers, in some cases varied with
red and white. The finest species
is A. paniculata or itdlica, the Ita-
lian Bugloss, which is common in
gardens. ‘The flowers are in erect
leafy spikes, and are of a brilliant
blue, with their backs and buds of
a reddish purple, and the plant con-
tinues flowering from June to Sep-
tember. ‘The most ornamental of
the annual species are now included
in the genus No'nga.

Anpra’cune.—See A/RButus.

Anpro’MEpDA. — Ericee. — Low
deciduous and evergreen heath-like
shrubs, chiefly natives of North
America, and some of which are
very ornamental. The species which
were comprised in the genus An-
dromeda of Linnzus, have been di-
vided by Professor Don into seven
genera, viz.: Cassiope, Cassandra,
Zenobia, Lyonia, Leucothoe, Pieris,
and Agonista; but the plants are
still known by their old names in
most of the nurseries. ‘The species
left in Andromeda by Professor Don,
are A. polifolia, and A. resmarini-
jfélia. The handsomest species are
A. speciosa (Zenobia), A. racemésa
(Lyonia), A. Catesbéii (Leucothoe
spinulosa), and A. floribunda (Leu-
cothoe). All the species are gener-
ally grown in heath-mould or peat,
but they will also thrive in very fine
sandy loam. In whatever soil they
may be grown, the roots should
never be suffered to become quite
dry; as, like those of all the hair-
rooted plants, when once withered,
they cannot be restored; and the
plant has seldom vigour enough to
send out a sufficient quantity of new

ones. All the kinds are propagated
by layers.
Anprosa‘ce. — Primulacea. —

Little insignificant plants, not worth

growing except for rock-work ; and
only suited for that purpose, from
their feeble habit of growth, which
prevents them from spreading fast.
Anpros&\MuM.— Hypericindcee.
—A handsome evergreen British
plant, with showy yellow flowers ;
very useful in covering the ground
in shrubberies. It prefers a moist,
shady situation, and is uninjured
by the drip of trees. The English
name of this plant is Tutsan.
Anemo'ne.—Ranunculacee.—All
the plants belonging to this genus
are beautiful and well deserving of
cultivation; from the little white
wood Anemone (A. nemordlis), to
the largest Dutch varieties of A.
coronaria, which have been some-
times known to be six inches in di-
ameter. ‘The common hardy kinds,
including the beautiful blue A. ap-
pennina, and the Pasque-flower, A.
Pulsatitlla, or, as it is sometimes
called, Pulsatilla vulgaris, are of
very easy culture. ‘They should be
planted in a warm dry border, in
face of a south wall, in a light soil,
and they may be left in the ground
for several years without taking up.
Of the other kinds, A. palmdata,
with bright yellow flowers, A. viti-
folia, a Nepal species, with large
white flowers, and A. narcissiflora,
are best deserving of cultivation.
The Hepatica was once called Ave-
mone Hepatica, though this name
has been long changed to Hepatica
triloba. (See Hepa'tica.) The gar-
den Anemones, on the contrary,
which are what are called Florists’
flowers, require the utmost care in
their cultivation. All the numerous
and splendid kinds of these plants
which are met with in gardens,
spring from three species; viz. A.
coronaria, the garland or Poppy
Anemone, the sepals of which are
white, with a red ring round the
centre inside the flower, and the se-
pals rounded ai the ti . stellata,
or pavonina, the sepa of rhich are
* -*

Q

ANEMONE.

purplish, and of one colour through-
out; and A. hortensis, the sepals
of which are pointed and purplish, |
with a white centre. The tubers of |
these fine kinds of Anemones, and
their hybrids and varieties, are sold
in the seed-shops by the hundred. |
They resemble little bunches of small |
black potatoes, which may be di- |
vided, each portion producing a new
plant, though it will prebably be too
weak to flower the first year. As.
A. coronéria, which is the parent of |
the finest florists’ Anemones, comes |
from Syria and Asia Minor, where |
the ground is parched and dry in
the hot season, the tubers should be |
taken up in our moist climate every |
summer, as soon as the flowers are |
over and the leaves have turned
yellow. ‘They should be laid on
shelves formed of lathes, then be |
kept in a warm, dry, airy situation,
till October, when they should be |
planted in beds prepared for their
reception ; and where expense is not |
an object, these beds should be dug
out to the depth of about afoot. In
the bottom of the pit thus formed,
should be spread a layer, six or eight
inches thick, of rotten cow-dung, if
two years old so much the better;
and on this, fresh loamy soil, so as |
to raise the bed three or four inches
above the level of the walks. The
surface of the bed is then raked
smooth, and drills cr furrows made |
in it about five inches apart, and two |
inches deep. A little sand should |
be strewed along these drills, and
the Anemone roots placed in them
three or four inches apart. Care
must be taken, in planting, to let |
the tubers have the side which con-
tains the bud uppermost; and it
sometimes requires rather a close
examination to discover which side
this is, particularly if the dry fibrous |
roots have been rubbed off, as the
bud is not very conspicuous. All |
the pieces accidentally broken off |
should be preserved, as they will all |

115

ANEMONE.

grow, and form fresh tubers. The
bed should be covered with bast mats
stretched over hoops, or bundles of
straw tied together, when danger
is apprehended from frost ; bat this
covering should be so contrived as
to be easily removed when neces-
sary, as the tubers are very liable
to be injured, and even to become
mouldy, bydamp. When the plants
begin to grow, they should be fre-
quently watered with rain-water, so
as never to allow the fibrous roots to
wither from drought ; and when the
plants have done flowering, the mats

_on hoops should be again stretched

over the bed, and the plants kept
quite dry, till their leaves become
brown and wither, which will gener-
ally be in about a month after they
have done flowering. The tubers
should then be taken up, and kept
dry, till the return of the proper
season for planting. Another mode
of cultivating the garden Anemone,
which is said to produce flowers of
extraordinary size and beauty, is to
form a bed about eighteen inches
deep, and to place a layer of stones,
brickbats, and other drainage, at
the bottom, about six inches deep.
The bed is then filled with fresh
loam, and the tubers are planted in
drills with sand, and covered as
before directed; and then, over the
whole is placed a layer of cow-dung,
three or four inches thick. The
beds which are planted in February,
are watered with pond or rain water

regularly once a day, if the weather

be dry and not frosty, during the
month of March, and twice a day
afterwards till they are in flower ; but
those that are planted in autumn,
are seldom watered till the leaves
appear above ground; and after-
wards, till they flower. ‘The water-
ing carries the manure in small
quantities into the ground, and the
young plants thus treated are said
both to grow and to flower with
extraordinary vigour. It must be

ANNUALS.

116

ANNUALS.

observed, however, that there must
be at least two inches of loamy soil
between the cow-dung and the tu-
bers; as, if this were not the case,
the tubers would be rotted. When
seedling Anemones are to be raised,
the seed should be divested of its
pappus, by rubbing it between the
hands or through a sieve, and sown
in pots or boxes in August ; the young
tubers should be taken up when the
leaves wither the following summer,
and replanted in autumn, when they
will flower the following spring.

ANGELICA-TREE.—See ARa‘LIA.

Ancexo'niA.—Scrophularinee.—
An evergreen perennial, w:th very
beautiful blue flowers, a native of
South America. It should be kept
in a cool airy part of the stove, or in
a warm greenhouse ; ard it should
be allowed a season of rest, during
which it should be kept cool, and
have scarcely any water. The soil
should be a very sandy loam, mixed
with peat earth, and it may be pro-
pagated, though with difficulty, by
cuttings, struck in pure sand.

Awnicoza'nTHos.—Hemodoracee.
—Evergreen herbaceous plants from
New Holland, with deep crimson
and deep flowers, one of which, A.
Manglésii, well deserves a place in
every greenhouse. It should have
abundance of light and air, and
grows freely in loam and peat, kept
moist; it is readily increased by
division, or by seeds, which it has
ripened in this country.

AwnnvaLs.— Plants which live only
one summer ; and which, with refer-
ence to their culture in British gar-
dens, are either tendér, half-herdy,
or hardy. Tender annuals are kept
during the whole period of their
growth under glass ; half-hardy
annuals are raised under glass, and
afterwards transplanted into the
open garden ; and hardy annuals
are sown in the open garden.

Tender Annuals are sown in
February or March, in pots of light

rich earth, plunged in a hotbed ;
and as soon as the plants are come
up, they are transplanted into pots
of the very smallest size, one in each
pot ; which is called pricking them
out. These small pots are again set
in the hotbed as near the glass as
| possible, and slightly shaded during
sunshine. In a week or two, when
|the roots have made their appear-
ance on the outside of the ball of
earth, which is known by turning
the plant out of the pot, to examine
the ball, and replacing it, the plants
are shifted into pots one size larger;
and this shifting is continued from
time to time, always into pots only
a little larger than those the plants
were taken out of; till at last the
plants are in pots six, eight, or nine
| inches in diameter, according to their
nature, and the size to which it is
wished to grow them. In all these
| shiftings, light rich mould must be
used to fill up the pots, and sufficient
drainage must be secured, by placing
_potsherds in the bottom of each pot.
In general, the more frequently the
plant is shifted, the larger and more
bushy it will become before it flowers ;
but when once flower-buds have
made their appearance, no farther
_advantage can be gained from shift-
ing, the growth of the plant being
then mature. Some persons water
_tender annuals with liquid manure,
which is found to answer in the
ease of Balsams, Cock’s-combs, and
other strong-growing plants, but to
injure more tender-growing kinds.
_ The extraordinary size that Balsams
and Cock’s-combs may be brought
to by repeatedly shifting them in
this manner, is not only gratifying
in itself, but interesting and instruc.
tive, as showing the effect of art
on plants. The Balsam in a wild
state, in the East Indies, is seldom
seen above a foot in height, with a
stem half an inch in diameter ; but

in British hothouse s been

grown to the heigh five feet,
\

' Ars ye

w

Ps,

ANNUALS.

with a stem as thick as a man’s leg.
We have omitted to observe, that
during the whole process of shifting,
the temperature in which the plants
are kept should be from sixty to
seventy, or even eighty, degrees
during sunshine ; and that they
should be so abundantly supplied
with water, that the air should be
constantly charged with moisture :
but when the plants begin to flower,
they ought to be removed to a dry

airy situation, and the temperature

gradually lowered. The dry air,

-and the lowering of the temperature, |

will not only increase the intensity

of the colours of the flowers and.
leaves, but will prolong the duration |

of the plant.
Half-hardy Annuals may be

sown either in plunged pots, or in a |

bed of earth on a slight hotbed, in
February or March ; and after they
have come up they may be pricked

out into plunged pots, or into the

earth covering another slight hot-

bed, where they may remain till,
the beginning of May, when they |
should be transplanted into the beds |
or borders in ihe open garden, where |

they are finally to remain. In most

cases, however, it is not worth while |

to prick out the plants in a second

hotbed ; and sometimes they may |
be sown in pots, and thinned out to_

two or three plants in a pot; and
when they have grown two or three
inches high, the ball of earth, and
the plants in it, may be turned out

into the open border. This mode is

well adapted for strong clay soils,

because when plants from a hotbed |

are transplanted into such soils, they
commonly receive a severe check ;
whereas when they are turned out

with balls, provided the soil round |
them is settled by a good watering,
_they receive no check whatever.
» The soil in which half-hardy annuals 'when the flower-beds and borders

_ are rais ould be light and rich,
because only in such a soil that

the tender seedlings will grow vigor-

117

ANNUALS.

ously, and produce numerous fibrous
roots without which they would pro-
| duce but little effect when turned out
‘into the open garden. The more
| showy kinds of half-hardy annuals
are the French and African Mari-
golds, Chinese and German Asters,
| Zinnias, the purple Jacobea, and a
| number of others. Brompton, ten-
_weeks, and German Stocks, though
| quite hardy, make better plants,
| and consequently flower more vigor-
ously, when so raised. There are
few plants mere truly ornamental
than the different kinds ef Steck ;
and when these are raised under
glass, pricked out into pots of the
smallest size, and gradually shifted
from pots of two inches to those of
ten inches in diameter, they will
make winter ornaments for green-
houses and dining-rooms, which for
fine masses of colour are unequalled
by any production of tropical cli-
mates. Brompton Stocks, treated
/in this manner, have been known
to attain the height of six feet, and
to live and flower for three years.
Hardy Annuals are generally
sown in the open garden, where
they are finally to remain ; or they
may be sown in pots or seed-beds to
transplant into their final situation,
when they are two or three inches
high. The latter mode is preferable
with all the Californian annuals,
which grow stronger and flower
better when sown in autumn, and
suffered to stand the winter in the
open air, than when they are sown
| with the other annuals in spring.
About an inch in thickness of very
light soil should be laid on a hard
surface of rock or ovat. iii any
obscure part of the garden, and in
this the seeds should be sown the
first week in September. In March
or April, according to the season,

| have been dug over and prepared,
_ the young seedlings should be taken
|up by spadefuls and laid over the

ANONA, 118

bed, filling up all the interstices
between the patches with earth, so
as to e the surface even. Thus
treated, the Nemophilas, the Lepto-
siphons, the Collinsias, the Lasthe-
nias, and, in short, all the Californian
annuals, will be splendidly in flower
in May and June.

When the seeds of annuals are
sown, the ground should first be
made firm by pressing it with the
saucer of a flower-pot, or the back
of the spade; the seeds should then
be sprinkled thinly over the ground,
and just covered with fine earth,
which should be slightly pressed
down over them. When they come
up, if they appear too thick, they
should be thinned out so as to leave

ANTIRRHINUM.

very curious flowers, is frequently
found in gardens and shrubberies.
AnoMATHE'cs.—Iridaceea.—Cape
bulbs, with red flowers, and rather
curious capsules, which have the
appearance of being frosted. 'The
bulbs should be planted in April,
when they will produce flowers in
June, and continue flowering till
September. They should be taken
up in November, and kept in a dry
place till the following April. A.
juncea was formerly considered 2
Lapeyrotsia.
| A'nTHEmis. — Compdésite. — The
_Chamomile.— A. Pyréthrum, the
_Pellitory of Spain, is a pretty little
perennial, with large white flowers,
‘stained with lilach on the back. It

each plant standing apart; the dis- | is a suitable plant for rockwork, or
tance at which they are left from | boxes in a balcony, as it requires a
each other varying, of course, ac- | warm dry situation. Miller raised
cording to the strength and habit | this plant in rather a curious way in
of growth of the plant. The plants | 1732, finding its seeds among some

of some kinds of annuals will bear
transplanting after they have been
taken up im thinning, but generally
they are not worth the trouble of
replanting. ‘The seeds when sown
are often destroyed by birds ; but
this may be prevented by turning a
flower-pot over each patch till the
seeds have germinated, taking care,
however, to remove it as soon as
the plants begin to grow, lest they
should be drawn up by the shelter
thus afforded, and become weak.
Snails and slugs are dangerous ene-
mies to young and tender annuals,
and care should be taken to search

| Malaga raisins to which they had
|adhered. The root was formerly
considered a cure for the toothache.
The Arabian Chamomile, a pretty
low-growing hardy annual, with
yellow flowers, is now called Cla-
| dénthus Ardabicus.

AntTuoty'za. — Iridicee.— Cape
| bulbs with showy flowers. For their
| culture, see ANOMATHE'CA.
| Awnruy'Lus. — Legumindse. —
| Kidney Vetch. Dwarf plants with
| pretty flowers; generally used for
/rockwork; which are quite hardy,
| &c.; will grow in any common soil.

AnTs are very troublesome in

for them early in the morning and | hothouses and greenhouses, and it
late in the evening ; or to destroy | is very difficult to get rid of them.

_ them by watering the ground with | As, however, it has been found that

lime-water, so weak as not to dis-

figure the plants.

Ano'na, L. — Anondiceea. — The
Custard Apple——Stove shrubs and
low trees, natives of the East and
West Indies. The hardy species are
now formed into a separate genus,
under the name of Asimina; and
one species, A. trileoba, which has}

| the liquor discharged by ants is very

acid and acrid, the idea presented
itself that alkalies would be dis-
agreeable to them; and experience

proves this so far to be the case, ©

that a circle of chalk o lime laid

round any plant will e

vent the ants from to it.
Antirrui'num, — Scrophularine.

_ .

%
‘sd

ually pre- |

eee

4

*

as

- on Rose-trees.

APHIS.

119

—The Snapdragon—Annual and

perennial plants, natives of the mid-

dle and south of Europe, and of.

which one species, A. majus, the
common Snapdragon, is in almost
every garden. ‘There are many
varieties of this species, the finest
of which, A. m. Caryophyjiloides,
has the flowers striped like those of
a flaked Carnation. All the spécies
of Snapdragon grow in any soil that
is tolerably dry, and they are readily
increased by cuttings; for though
they produce abundance of seeds,
yet the varieties can only be perpe-
tuated with certainty by the former
mode of propagation. ‘The beauti-
ful carnation-hke variety will, in-
deed, very seldom produce striped
flowers two years in succession from

AQUARIUM.

as these latter broods of aphides are
all born alive, they begin to devour
the plants on which they appear
immediately. The tenth generation
usually appears about Septeraber,
and these insects lay eggs for the

first brood the following spring. The

the same root ; and thusa person who |

has purchased a plant with beauti-
fully striped flowers, will generally
have the mortification the second
year to find it produce nothing but
flowers of the common Snapdragon,
unless cuttings have been made from
the young shoots of the plant, and
the old root thrown away. As this

best way of preventing the attacks of
these insects is washing the branches
of the Rose-trees with soft soap
and weter in January or February;
or, in short, any time before the
buds begin to swell. When they
have appeared, the best way to
destroy them is te lay the infested
branches on the hand, and gently to
brush off the insects with a soft brush.
Or if this be not found sufficient, to
make a decoction of quassia, in the
proportion of an ounce of quassia
chips to every quart of water, and
to dip the infested branches in it,

, taking care not to shake them, but

to let the mixture, which will not
disfigure them, dry on the leaves.

‘If any of the aphides remain after

the first application o

plant in its wild state is very com- |

monly found growing on the tops of
old walls, it may be considered as
one of the most ornamental plants
for placing in such a situation.
Many of the plants formerly called
Antirrhinum, are now removed to
the genus Linaria.

Apuis.—The green fly or plant-_

louse is one of the most troublesome
insects to the gardener, particularly
These insects lay
their first set of eggs (which are
small and black) in autumn, near
the axils of the buds. The eggs are

the shoots may be di
time; or the decoct quassia
may be made strong Quassia
is not at all injurious to plants,
though it is instantaneously destruc-
tive to animal life. Some gardeners
employ tobacco water, but when
this is used the shoots should only
remain a few seconds in the tobacco

water, and then be washed imme-

hatched in February or March, but |

as only a few insects appear, they
generally escape unnoticed, and,
after twice casting their dais arrive

attheir full growth in April. From

/water plants.

this period to the end of summer, |

brood afte

rood is produced with |

diately in clean cold water, or they
will become so blackened and
withered, that the remedy will be
worse than the insects. Snuff and
lime-water are liable to the same
objections, as both greatly disfigure
the plants.

Aqua‘rium.—A_ pond, basin, or
cistern of water, for the growth of
In a pond in the
open garden, the plants may either
be grown in pots, plunged to the
depth of one or two feet in the
_water, or they may be planted in the

almost inconceivable rapidity ; and bottom of the pond. ‘The former is

2 The Columbine.

et

oo .

a

ARALIA.
generally the best mode, because the
plants aie by that means kept dis-
tine d the stronger cannot over-
power the weaker. At the same
time very strong ground plants, such
as the white and yellow Water-lilies,
do not flower freely unless in the
free soil, or in very large tubs.
There are few greenhouse aquatics,
but a number of stove plants, which
require to be grown in water; such
as the Indian Lotus, or Nelumbium,
&c., and these are necessarily grown
in pots of moderate size. ‘The most |
suitable soil is a rich loam. The |
Papyrus, though properly speaking
‘t is a marsh plant, is generally
grown in an aquarium. See Marsu
Pants.

Aquite’cia. — Ranunculaceae. —
Perennial herba-
ceous plants, growing from one to two

feet high, of which several species |

are very ornamental ; more especial-
ly the common Columbine, A. vul-
garis, and its varieties, A. alpina,

A. canadensis, and A. glandulosa.
They any common soil that
is dry ; species are increased
by seed ich will keep a long

time, and the varieties by division
of the root.
A’nazis._-Crucifere.—-W all-cress.
Herbaceous plants, chiefly annuais
and biennials, natives of Europe,
many of which are remarkable for
their early flowering. A. alpina
has white and yellow flowers, which
appear in March, and A. dlbida
flowers the greater part of the year,
conunencing in mild winters in Jan-

uary, and preducing its large tufts |

of white blossoms till October. Some

- of the species and varieties, such as

A, vérna, A. alpina nana, and A.
bellidifolia, do not grow above three
inches high, and are admirable plants
for rockwork, or gardens of pots.
Ara‘iia. — Aralidcee. — Hardy
suffruticose plants, and stove shrubs,
with umbels of small white flowers.
The commonest species is A. spind-

120

ARBUTUS.

sa, useful in a shrubbery for its har.

|

diness, and for its thriving in any
poor gravelly soil. There is a new
species, A. japdénica, which is said
to be very handsome. oe
Argor vira.—See Tuu'sa.
Arsore'tum—A_ collection of
trees and shrubs, containing only
one or two plants of a kind, ar-
ranged together, according to some
system or method. ‘The most com-

|mon arrangement is that of the

Natural System; but the plants in
an arboretum may be placed to-

gether according to the countries
of which they are natives; accord-
ing to the soil in which they grow ;
or according to their sizes and hab-
its, or time of leafing, or flowering.
In all small villa residemees an ar-
boretum is the most offectnal means
of procuring a maximum of enjoy-
ment in a minimum of space, as far
as trees and shrubs are concerned.
To render an arboretum useful and
interesting, each tree and shrub
should be named.

Arsours.—Seats or resting-places,
forming terminations to walks, or
fixed in retired parts of shrubberies
or pleasure-grounds. In general,
every straight walk ought to lead

_to some object of use, as well as of
beauty; and an arbour is one of
‘those in most common use. The

structure being formed, climbing
plants, igneous or herbaceous, are

planted all around it at the base of
the trellis-work, or frame, against
which, as they climb up, they ought
_ to be tied and trained, so as to spread

over the whole arbour. Some of the
best plants for this purpose are the
different species of Honeysuckle,
Roses, and Clematis; and the La-
burnum, the Peripléca greca, the

mocarpus scdbra, Lophospermum,
Rhodochiton, the Virginian ereeper,
Cobea scéndens, Menispermum
canadensis, and ivy. ~
A’reutus. — Ericacee. — The

aie oo: a

_Maurandias, the Wistarias, Eccre-

a

ARISTOLOCHIA,

Strawberry-tree. Well-known ever-
green shrubs, of which A. Unédo
rubra deserves to be mentioned for
the beauty of its flowers; A. cana-
riémsis, a greenhouse species, has
also very showy flowers; and A.
Andrdchne, which is the tenderest
of the open air kinds, is remarkable
for the looseness and redness of its
baik. All the species are very or-
namental, and of free growth; and
they all thiive best in heath mould,
or very sandy loam. ‘They are
propagated by layers or cuttings.
Arcto‘ris— Composite —Under-
shrubs and herbaceous plants, na-
tives of the Cape of Good Hope,

. - , |
aud of which one species, A. dspe-

ra, has large yellow flowers, and is
truly ornamental.

hand-glass.

Arpi's1a—Myrsinee.—A genus
ef stove shrubs, of which A. lenti-
ginosa is very ornamental for its
scariet fruit. They all grow in
loam and peat, and cuttings root
freely in sand, in a moist heat un-
der a hand-glass. They may also
be increased by cuttings of the root
placed in heat.

Arena ‘r1s.— Caryophylidcee. —
Pretty little plants with flowers
shaped like those of the pmk. Most
of the species are natives of Europe,
and they are all quite hardy. The
fiowers are red, white, or purple.
These plants are of easy culture in

ny dry sandy soil, and they are
particularly suitable for roeckwork.

Arcemo'NE — Papaverdcee. —
Prickly-poppy. Highly ornamental
hardy annuals and perennials frem
Mexico, with large flowers like those
of the Poppy, and of the easiest
culture. The plants spreading wide-

121

It grows freely |
in leamy soil, and is increased by |
cuttings planied in sand under a_

ARUM.

the heat of a stove; but A. Sipho,
| A. tomentosa, and A. Arkansa, na-
tives of North America, hardy
enough to endure the open air in
| Britain, withont the slightest pro-
;tection. ‘They are all remarkable
for the very singular shape of their
| flowers, and their disagreeable smell.
|They should be grown in sandy
loam and peat ; and they are propa-
gated by cuttings.
| Aristore‘LiA— Homaiinee.— A.
| Macqui is a handsome shrub, a na-
tive of Nerth America, which is
rather tender in the open ground.

Thrift. Hardy perennials, most of
which are ornamental; and one
species, A. vulgaris, the common
Thrift, is a good flowering plant
for edgings to beds and borders. It
thrives in any soil not saturated
with moisture, and is rapidly in-
creased by division. A. alpina,
which produces its pink flowers from
May to August, is a most desirable
plant for pots, or rockwork
ARTEM1's1A.— Composit
genus contains, among o}
two well-known shrubs ; the South-
pape oe or Old Man, Artemisia
Abrotanum, and the Wormwood,
| A. Absinthium. They are both very
| hardy, and will grow in any com-
mon soil; and the Southern-wood
‘is valuable for bearing want of air,
| and smoke, without injury. Few
| persons are, perhaps, aware, that
the leaves of this plant, when held
up against a strong light, appear
full of transparent dots; these are
| the vesicles containing the fragraut
oil that gives out the scent; and it

Chinese Chrysanthemums are fre-

ly, require a good deal of room to | quently miscalled Artemisias here.

look handsome.

* Arisroto‘cria. — Asarine. —

Birthwort, The Aristolochias are

mostly climbing plants, requiring
11

—Eb.]
A‘rum.—Aroidee.—A genus of
| perennials, chiefly natives of warm

| climates, and of which a few spe-

ArmE‘riA. — Plumbaginee. — &

\is by breaking them, that rubbing |
the leaves between the fingers
_makes them smell stronger. [The =

¥

ASCLEPIAS.

cies are hardy in British gardens. |
Of these, A. draciinculus, the Dra-|
gon Arum, deserves a place in the
flower-garden, for its large very re-
markable flowers. The large and
splendid plant, with arrow-shaped |
leaves and white flowers, commonly
called the Arum, belongs to a dif-
ferent genus, and was first called
by botanists Calla, and afterwards
Richardia ethidpica. It is a native
of the Cape of Good Hope, and St.
Helena, where it grows in rich soil
by the side of rivers. In England,
it will not bear the winter in the
open air, unless well protected and
kept dry; and it is generally grown
in pots. It is increased by offsets,
which form on its thick fleshy roots
in August or September. These
should be potted in small pots, in
soil composed of three parts of sandy
loam, and one of leaf mould, or
thoroughly rotten manure. The
pots should be well drained, and the |
plants frequently watered, while they |
are in a growing state. About May
or June, the leaves will begin to
wither at their points ; and when
this is perceived, the supply of water
should be lessened, till at last only
enough is given just to keep the
plant alive. During the time the
leaves are dying off, the plant should
have abundance of light; but when
they are all withered, the plant |
should be removed to any shed or
other place where it may enjoy
complete repose for about a month.
In October or November it should |
be repotted, and supplied with abun- |
dance of water, particularly if kept |
in a sitting-room, where there is a_

aily fire. It should indeed always |
stand in a saucer full of water |

(changing the water every day), |
as the plant will not flower if once |
suffered to become too dry while in
a growing state ; and as it has the
extraordinary power of discharging
the superabundant water from the
points of its leaves, in drops. This

quality renders it also suitable for
culture as an aquatic plant ; and
thus treated, it will live in the open
air all winter, and when the leaves
die down, the water will keep"the
root from frost. ‘The roots must be
planted in the mud at the bottom
of the pond, and a part should be
chosen where the water is not
more than three feet deep. ‘This
must be attended to; because, as
the plant will not expand its flowers
till its leaves rise above the surface,
the stem would become weakened
by being more elongated. The
plant generally flowers in March or
April; but by prolonging its season
of repose, it may be made to flower
in May or June.
Anvu'npo.—Graminee.—A. Dod-
naz, is a splendid bamboo-looking
reed, rather tender in severe win-
ters ; but which, if the season be
favourable, will grow in rich soil
kept moist, to the height of ten or
twelve feet in one year; producing
a fine oriental appearance when
standing singly on a lawn, or near
water. There is a variety with
striped leaves, which is common in
gardens; and which iscalled Ribbon
grass in England, and in Scotland
Gardener’s garters. This variety is
quite hardy. 'The species is a native
of Italy, and it is often used instead
of bamboo for chairs, canes, &c.
AscLe‘pias. — Asclepiddee. —
Swallow-wort. North American
herbaceous plants, for the greater
part hardy in British gardens.
The most ornamental species is
A. tuberésa, which has fine otange-
coloured flowers, and is somewhat
difficult to cultivate. It thrives,
however, in sandy peat, kept rather
dry than otherwise, and seldom
disturbed by removal ; and it is in-
creased by division. A. am‘ena
has purple flowers, and thrives in
a mixture of peat and loam. The
finest hothouse species is A. cur-
rasavica, which has scarlet flowers,

_» oe ag.

Qo

se ciate

ASTER 123

AUBRIETIA.

and grows best in rich meuld; and_

which is readily increased by cut-
tings, or by seeds, which it produces
in abundance.
Asu Barserry.—See Mano'nta.
Aspe’ ruLA.— Rubidcee. —W ood-
roof. Hardy herbaceous plants, of
which one species, A. odordia, the

deserves culture for its sweet-
scented white flowers, which, in
the dried plant, have the scent of
hay. It is well adapted for grow-
ing in pots, and for rockwork on a
large scale ; but as it increases

rapidly by its creeping roots, it is |

by no means desirable for small
rockwork.

Aspxo'peLus. — Asphedlee. —
iking’s-spear, or King’s-rod. Orna-

mental herbaceous plants, mostly |

quite hardy, of which A. déléus, and
A. liiteus, are the most ornamental
species. They are coarse-growing
plants, and increase rapidly by
suckers in any common soil.
A'ster.—Composite—The Mi-
chaelmas* Daisy.
ceous plants, mostly perennials.

There are also a few Cape and_|
The herba-
ceous species are of great value, |

New Holland shrubs.

from their flowering late in autumn,
and from their requiring very little
care or labour in their culture. They
will grow in any soil, or situation,
and spread rapidly by throwing up
suckers, and sending out roct stems.

Among the handsomest perennial |

species are A. alpinus, and A.
ericoides, the common,Michaelmas
Daisy. The China ‘A@ter has been
separated by botanists from the

enus Aster; it was first placed |
>

in the genus Callistema, but it and
its varieties, the German Asters,
&c., now form the new genus Cal-
listephus, under which the culture of
the plant is given. A’ster tenéllus
is thus the only unnual species left
in the old genus, and it is a pretty
little hardy plant ; which may be
-

Hardy herba- |

sown in the open ground in March
or April. Among the greenhouse
species of Aster, A. artophy'llus,

/sometimes called the Musk-plant,

is remarkable for its white leaves
and strong scent; and A. furticuld-
sus has pretty blue flowers. These

_two last species are grown in sandy
common Woodroof, or Woodruff, |

peat, or a mixture of loam and peat,
and are readily propagated.

Asrra’caLus. — Legumindse. —
The Milk Vetch. Vigorous grow-
ing pea-flowered plants, of which
several deserve culture, on account
of their flowers. They grow in
any common soil with a dry bottom,
and are readily increased by seeds,
or by division of the root.

Arama’sco Lity.—See Zepuyr-
A/NTHES.

ArraGe'neE. — Ranunculicee. —
This genus is nearly allied to Cle-
matis. The species are half shrub-
by climbers, much admired for the
beauty of their flowers, and very

| suitable for training against walls,

or trellis-work, or for covering
bowers. They ail grow freely in
any common garden soil, and they
are readily increased by layers, or
by cuttings of the growing wood
planted in sand under a hand-glass.

They also frequently ripen seeds

which ought to be sown imme-
diately, in which case they will
come up the following spring ; other-
wise, if kept some months before
sowing, they will probably lie in the
ground a year. All the species are
beautiful, but A. austriaca, with blue
flowers, and A. sibérica, with white
flowers, are the most ornamental.
A'rropa.—Soalandcee.— A. Beila-
douna is the Deadly Nightshade.
Avprigia.—Crucifere.—A ge-
nus of pretty little plants, generally
with purple flowers, above three
inches high, which flower in March,
and are admirably adapted for pots,
or miniature rockwork. They grow
in any common soil, and are readily
propagated by division. A. deltoi-

AUSTRALIAN SHRUBS.

124

AZALEA.

dea, and A. purptrea, are the most
desirable species.
Av‘cusa.—Loranthacee, or Cor-
nacee.—A hardy evergreen shrub,
which, though a native of Japan,
endures the severest winters in the
climate of London. It is common
in every garden, and it is often
called the Japan, or spotted Laurel.
The leaves are leathery, and varie-
gated; and the bark of the shoots
is of a deep pea-green. It will
grow in any soil, either in an open
situation, or under the drip of trees ;
and it forms a compact bush, which
never requires pruning. It is prop-
agated by cuttings or layers. ‘The
Aucuba in British gardens is only
the female plant; as, though it
has been introduced above fifty
years, it has never ripened seeds,
though it flowers every spring ; and
the species, of which our variegated
plant is evidently only a variety,
has never been introduced. lis
fruit being unknown, botanists have
been much puzzled to know where
to place it; thus it was first placed
in Rhamnacee, with the Buck-
thorns, then in Loranthacee, with
the Mistletoe; and now in Corna-
cee, with the Dogwoods. ['The
Auciba, or Gold-dust tree, as it is

sometimes called, is scarcely hardy |

enough to stand our winters north
of Baltimore or Philadelphia.— Eb. ]
Auri'cuLa.—See Pari’mua.
AustTraLIAN Surugs have gene-
rally a strong tap-root, which sends
cut very fine fibres; they require a
sandy loam, or peat, mixed with

never suffered to remain in a stag-
aant state round their roots.

long before they vegetate, unless
steeped for at least. twenty-four
hours in water, which should be hot
when poured on them. Some of
the Acacias may even be boiled two
or three minutes without injuring
them. All the Australian shrubs
and trees are very tenacious of life ;
and when apparently killed, they
will generally, if cut down, spring
again from the root.

Avens.—See Gr‘um.

Aza‘Ltea, L.—Ericéceeae.—Beau-
tiful flowering plants, natives of
North America, Turkey, and Chi-
na. The American kinds, and A.
pontica, the only species found in
Turkey, are quite hardy; but the
Chinese kinds require the protection
of a greenhouse. All the species
should be grown in peat earth, heath
mould, or very sandy loam; and
provided the ground they grow in is
well drained, and they are never al-
lowed to become too dry, they will
thrive in almost any situation,
though they prefer the shade. They
may be transplanted at almost any
age, or season, even when in flower,
provided a ball of earth be kept
round their roots; and as they hy-
bridize freely, and ripen seed abun-
dantly, innumerable varieties may
be raised. They also bear both
forcing and retarding extremely
well. Several attempts have been
made to naturalize them in this
country, particularly at High Clere,
near Newbury, the seat of Lord
Carnarvon. ‘The kinds called the

| Ghent Azaleas are hybrids, and va-
decayed leaves ; and they should be |
frequently watered, but the water |

They |

are all easily killed by an excess |
of either stagnant moisture, or |

drought ; as in the former case the
slender fibres of the roots rot, and
in the latter they wither, and are
seldom, if ever, renewed ; and the
sceds of nearly all of them are very

rieties raised in Belgium, from the
yellow Azalea (A. pontica), and the
American species. Professor Don
and some other botanists consider
nearly all the Azaleas to belong to
the Rhododendrons, and they have
leff. only one miserable little trailing
plant, a native of Scotland, formerly
called Loisleturia procimbens, to
supply the place of the once splen-
'did genus Azalea. /

BALCONY GARDEN.

BALSAMINIA.

AZAROLE TREE.—See CrRAT2 ‘GUS.
AZEDERACH.—See Me‘zia.

B.

Basia\na.—TJriddcee.—A genus
<f Cape plants, with solid bulbs or
corns, which are eaten by the Hot-
tentois ; and which, when roasted,
are said to resemble chestnuts. The
species have all showy flowers. For
their culture, see Buxss. :

Batcony Garpen.—The most
suitable plants for balconies are those
of low growth; and as, from their
exposed situation, they are liable to
great and sudden changes, with re-
gard to temperature, winds, and
moisture, they ought to be naturally
tolerably hardy. ‘To prevent the
soil in the pots from becoming over-
dried, from the pot being constanily
exposed to the wind, one pot ought
to be placed within another, with a |
little sand or moss between, and this
sand or moss ought to be kept con- |
stantly moist. The pots may be
set in saucers, provided a little
gravel be placed in the bottom of
each saucer, so as to allow the free |
escape of water from the hole in
the bottom of the pot; for if this
water stagnates in the pot, it soon
swells the soil so as te clese up the
hole in the bottom, and to prevent
the free escape of water; in which
case the soil in the pot is sure to
become sodden. When there is no |
gravel in the saucers, the plants
should be weil and frequently wa-
tered; but the water that runs
through the earth inthe pot into |
the saucers, should be poured out |
immediately and threwn away. A_
very good mode of growing plants |
in balconies is, to set the pots in |
wooden boxes or troughs, painted
stone colour, with a little gravel at |
the bottom, for the pots to stand on, |
and with the interstices filled in with
moss, which may also coyer the rims

11*

‘

| supplied with water.

and surface of the pots; so as to
make the plants appear to be grow-
ing out of moss. Mignonette and

‘trailing plants are best grown en-
_tirely in wooden boxes, without the

intervention of pots.

Ba'ccuaris. —- Composite. —
Ploughman’s Spikenard. Shrubs
generally with white flowers, and
natives of America, growing 1n any
common garden soil.

Batm.—See Dracocer’PHALUM.

Batsam.—See Bausami'nia.

Batsami'n1a. — Balsaminacee.—
Tender and half-hardy annuals, with
splendid flowers, mostly natives of
the East Indies. The common
Balsam (B. horténsis) is a well-
known greenhouse plant of great
beauty. To grow it in perfection,
the seeds should be sown on a hot-

bed, and when the plants come up

they should be transplanted into
very small pots, which should be
plunged into the hotbed, and well
In about a
week, the plants should be trans-
ferred to larger pots; and this ope-
ration should be repeated ten or
twelve times, always removing the
plants to pots only a little larger

than those they were taken from.

As soon as the flower-buds begin to
form, the plants should not be shifted
any more, and the pots which con
tain them must no longer be placed
in the hotbed, but the plants must be

| gradually exposed to the open air.

Many gardeners never plunge the
pots after the plants are three or four
inches high, and remove them from
the hotbed to the greenhouse as soon
as possible. Repeated shiftings are,
however, essential to produce fine
large flowers and handsome plants
The great secret 1n growing Bal-
sams is to allow them plenty of air
and light, and never to suffer them
to become drawn up; as when that
is the case, they will never after-
wards make handsome plants. As
Balsams, from their succulent na-

BANKSIA.

ture, require a great deal of moist-
ure, the saucers in which the pots
stand may be kept constantly full
of water; but this water should be
changedevery day. Balsamsgene-
rally ripen seeds, even from the
double flowers, and thus numerous
varieties are raised. When there is
any difficulty in raising the plants,
new seeds should be used; but
though the plants raised from seeds
ripened the same year will be very |
robust, the flowers will be generally |
single, and their colours neither |
bright nor distinct. Careful grow-
ers of Balsams who wish to raise
prize flowers, never use seeds of less |
than three years old; and they are |
particular in saving it from the.
most double, and handsomest flow-
ers; the best being those which |
have their colours distinctly marked,
like a Carnation. ‘The more choice

varieties may be preserved by cut- |
tings, which root readily in sand |
kept moist below, but dry at top, |
and covered witha bell-glass. The
seed-pots of Balsaminia, and those
of Impatiens, or Touch-me-not, open
with a jerk when touched, so as to

'
|
|
|
|
|
|

126

BARK.

in a mixture of sandy peat and
loam, with the pots well drained;
and cuttings of the young wood
root with some difficulty in sand
under a bell-glass, with a slight
bottom-heat.

Bapti'sta — Legumindse. — Her-
baceous pea-flowered plants, from
North America, of vigorous growth
and rather elegant appearance; of
which one species, B. austrlis, well
deserves a place in collections.
‘They may be grown in the open air
in common soil, and may be propa-
gated by division of the root.

Barsapors Currry.—See Mat-
PI'GHIA.

Barpaboes Gooseserry. — See
Pere'sKIA.

Barea Jovis.—A species of An-
thyllis.

Barba\rea.—Crucifere.—Peren-
nial plants, of which B. vulgaris
Sficre-pléno, the double yellow Roc-
ket, is worthy of culture. It is
propagated either by cuttings or di-
vision of the root, in common soil.

Barserry.—see Be'rerris.

Bark.—The refuse bark which

throw the seeds to a distance.
Bameoo.—See Bampu'sa.

Bampu'sa—Graminee.—A rapid |
growing stove-plant, which has a|
noble appearance where there is |
abundance of room. There are|
some species so hardy as to stand
the open air in the island of Jersey ;
and one of these, B. nigra, will
thrive in a greenhouse or against a
conservatory wall, in the climate of
London. The sBamboos should be |
grown in loamy soil, and they are |
increased by offsets.

Bana‘na.—See Mu'sa.

Ba'nxsta. — Protedcea. — Ever-
green New Holland shrubs, with)
curicus fiowers, resembling a kind |
of brush, but generally more re- |
markable for the beauty of their
Jeaves, which are curiously notched
and cut. All the species grow well

| has been used for tanning leather,
|and which produces considerable
|heat by its fermentation. When
obtained from the tannery it is gene-
rally soaked in water, and then
spread out in an open shed, and
turned over several times; after
this, it is laid in a ridge or heap,
and when it has begun to heat, it
is again turned over once or twice,
when it is fit to be put into the bark-
bed. In this bed er pit it continues
to ferment, and gives out heat for
several months ; and when the heat
begins to decline, fresh bark is add-
ed from the reserve stock in the
shed. ‘The bark-bed may be of any
dimensions in regard of length and
width, but it should seldom be more
than two feet in depth, to prevent
an excess of heat. The plants in
pots are generally plunged in it, at
first to half the depth of the pot,

BARK, OR MOIST STOVE.

and afterwards tothe rim. Substi-

BATATAS.

‘the first 110de being found b {expe-

tutes for bark are stable dung, leaves | rience to ve the best.

of trees, chaff, and any other eee |
table or animal substances which |
ferment in decaying; and in large |
towns the sweepings of streets may
be used, as these, in some of the

London gardens, are found to pro- |
duce a steady and durable heat in
hotbeds and pits, during the sum-_
The best substitute |

mer months.
for the peculiar heat of the bark is,
however, a mass of stones heated
by steam, or a mass of soil, or sand,
heated by pipes of hot water.
Bark, or Moist Stove.—A plant
structure with a glass roof, and a
bed or pit in its centre, containing

a mass of fermenting matter, or of |

earth or sand, heated by artificial
means, in which plants in pots are
to be plunged. The plants grown
in such houses being natives of the
warmest parts of tropical countries,
the temperature in a_ bark-stove
should never be lower than 60°, and
during summer it may rise as high
as 80 or 96°. In general, the heat

ought to be greatest in the day-time, |

and during bright sunshine, and
least during night, throughout the
year.
house with suificient moisture, the
floors of the passages should be
frequently watered; and to facili.

tate the same object, and to sub- |
due insects, the plants should be |

syringed or watered overhead, most
days in the year, and especially in
the summer season, about three
o’clock in the afternoon. After this
watering the house should be shut
up for the night; excepting when
the weather is very warm, when
some air may be given by opening
the sashes at eight or nine o’clock
at night, and leaving them open till

the following morning, at six or|

seven. Independently of the bark- |
bed, the air of the moist stove re-|
quires to be heated by pipes of hot
water or steam, or by smoke-flues;

To supply the air in the)

Barto'nia.—-Loasdcee.—-B. aurea
is a new and splendid annual, with
golden yellow flowers, whieh have

/quite a metallic lustre when the

sun shines upon them. The seed-
pod is curiously twisted. Like all
the Californian annuals, it is very
apt to die off if the roots become
at all withered by drought, or if the
collar of the plant be exposed to
the full heat of the sun; and it
thus does best when grown in
masses, so that the ground may be
quite covered with its leaves. B.
albéscens has greenish white flow-
ers, and is not worth growing.

[ Base’Lia. — Chenopodiee. — B.
tuberdsa, the Madeira vime, is a
beautiful climbing plant recently
introduced, which, from the elegance
of its glossy foliage, and its numer-
ous frazrant white flowers, has al-
ready become quite a favorite. It
grows with the greatest ease in any
soil, but in a mich loam, it will grow
forty feet in a single seaseon—and is
therefore an admirable plant for
covering an arbour or screen where
immediate effect is desired. The
roots are tuberous, with numerous
eyes or buds somewhat resembling
the potato, and may be kept through
the winter in a warm cellar in the
same manner.—Ep.}

Bast, or Bass.——The inner bark
of the lime-tree, separated by steep-
ing the bark in water till it can be
readily pulled asunder into ribands,
or strands ; these are hung up for
some months in thejshade, and they
are then woven into mats. The
manufacture of these mats is con-
fined to Russia and some parts of
Sweden, where the name for bark
is bast.

Basrarp Acacra.—See Rosr'nia.

Bay Tree—See Lav‘rus.

BasTarD SaFFRoN.—See Ca’RTHA-
MUS.

Batatas.—The Sweet Potato, a

BEDS FOR ILOWERS. 128

kind of Cenvolvulus, the root of
which is eaten.

Bavnrs1a. — Legumindse. —
Mountain Ebony. Stove shrubs,
mostly with white flowers, and re-
markable for their leaves always
being produced in twins, on which
account the genus was named in
conipliment to J. and C. Bauhin,
both eminent botanists.

Beap Tree—See Me zia.

Beauro’rtia._- Myrtccee.—-Splen-
did New Holland shrubs with scar-
let and red flowers, free-growers and
abundant flowerers, and well adapt-
ed either for planting out in a con-
servatory, or growing in pots. The
best soil is sandy loam and peat,

well drained; and cuttings, taken |

off with a small portion of half-ri-
pened wood, root freely in sand un-
der a bell-glass. BB. decusséta,
which produces its scarlet flowers
rom May to July, is one of the
handsomest species.

Beaumo'nt1a, Wal.—-Apocy nec. |

—Climbing shrubs from the East

Indies, of elegant foliage and large |

white flowers, of easy culture in the
stove, and propagated by cuttings
either of the stem or roots. The
best soil is sandy loam, mixed with
rotten dung or leaf-mould. By
proper management they may be
made to flower in the open air.—Sce
ALLAMA'NDA.

Bevs ror Fiowers.—Divisions
of a flower-garden which are formed
in different figures; and which are
generally covered with a mass cf
flowers of one kind, or at least of
one colour, though sometimes they
contain single plants, or small tu/ts
of plants and flowers, at regular
distances, with naked spaces show-
ing the soil between. The plants
most suitable for completely cover-
ing the beds are trailers and creep-
ers; and those for standing singly
at regular distances, are erect plants,
which have their flowers in terminal
spikes, corymbs, or umbels, or com-

BEGONIA.

_pact-growing plants, which make
neat little bushes entirely covered
with flowers ; the stems often require
to be pegged down with hooked
sticks so as to cover every part of
che bed equally ; and in wet seasons,
when the plants are apt to run too
much to leaves, the lower extremi-
ties of the shoots ought to be slightly
bruised, so as to check their growth
| by lessening the rapidity of the re-
turn of the sap. Some effect may
be produced by cutting through
some of the principal, six or eight
inches under ground. In situations
where the bottom is naturally moist,
the whole flower-garden ought to be
effectually drained, and those beds
which are intended to be wholly
covered with trailing plants, ought
to have a comparatively thin stra-
tum of soil. On the other hand,
borders intended for tall, vigorous
plants, ought to have a deep sub-
stantial soil.
Beprcuar.—A disease which af-
fects the Rose-tree—See Cynips.
Beco\nia.— Begoniacee.—T ropi-
cal under-shrubs or herbaceous
plants, some of which require the
stove and others the greenhouse.
The flowers are showy, pink or
white, and the leaves are succulent,
oblique at the base, and red under-
neath. Many of the herbaceous
kinds have tuberous roots ; and all
these, if planted in the open air,
rather deep in a dry sandy border
exposed to the south, and having
ihe soil covered with a little rotten
‘an, dung, leaves, or with litter dur-
ing the winter season, will come up
and flower freely every year. One
of the finest is B, octopétala, but it
is rather rare. B. discolor, which
has the leaves beautifully veined
with crimson underneath, is the
commonest species, and it thrives in
the greenhouse, or in a room, throw-
ing out numerous suckers, each
with a small tuberous root, which
only requires separating from the

“< “

BELLIS.

parent and potting, to become a
fresh plant. ‘The only objection to
its culture is, that it is very apt to
be infested with the red spider (see |
A’carus). When planted out in the |
summer season, it continues to pro-|
duce flowers for several months.
Beiiapo'nna.—One of the names |
for A'tropa Belladonna, the Deadly |
Nightshade.
Beriaponna Lity.—A kind of |
AMARYLLIS. /
Beti-Flower.—See Campa‘nuca.
Beiu-Giass—A glass cylinder,
with a globular top, used for cover-_
ing tender cuttings or seedlings. It
differs from a hand-glass in being
all in one piece; whereas « hand-_
glass consists of several pieces fixed
in a frame of lead, wood, or iron. ,
Be'iuis.— Composite.—The Dai- |
sy. Well-known perennials, of
which B. perénnis, the commen
Daisy, has been in cultivation in |
British and continental gardens from |
time immemorial. The most beau-
tiful varieties are the large double,
the large quilled, and the hen-and- |
chickens ; but there are many others.
In Germany, numerous curious va- |
rieties have been raised, by saving |
the seed of the handsomest kinds. |
Each sort is much improved by be-
ing taken up, divided, and replanted
three or four times every season.
They are all admirable plants for |

129

BERBERIS. *

er, and taken back again to make
room for other plants, when they
have gene out of flower. [These
pretty plants are seldom seen in our
gardens in as great abundance as
they deserve to be, which is owing
no doubt to their being very impa-
tient of our hot summers. They
should therefore be grown in a shady
and rather cool border.—Eb.]}

Bettows For Fumicarion.—A
machine composed of the common
bellows, or patent blower, used for
blowing fires, with the addition of a
tube or vessel for containing tobac-
co, pierced with holes. ‘The tobacco
is placed in this vessel, and being
lighted, the air is blown through it,
which forces out the smoke so as to
fill the pit, frame, or house which
contains the plant or plants which
are to be fumigated for the destruc-
tion of insects.

Be.vipere, or Summer Cypress.

'—See Ko’cuta.

Benrua‘m1a.—Cornacee.—A ve-
ry handsome evergreen shrub, with
large white showy flowers, which
are succeeded by scarlet fruit hay-
ing the appearance of a large straw-
berry. It is somewhat tender, and,
north of London, it requires a wall.
It thrives best in loam, and may be
propagated by layers, cuttings, or
seeds, which it produces in abun-
dance. -

Be'rveris. — Berberidee.--Theg /

making edgings to borders, and they
Berberry. Deciduous shrubs, na-¢

are well suited for growing in pots,

t?
¥

though at present they are almost |
neglected. They thrive best ina
ioamy soil, richly manured, which
should be dug over and well broken
before planting; and they will bear
transplanting even when in flower,
provided they are taken up with a
portion of soil attached. No plants
are better adapted for covering a
bed with one mass of colour. Masses
of any of the kinds of Daisies may
be brought from the reserve ground
and laid down on a bed in the flower-
sarden, when just coming into flow-

tives of Europe, North America,
and Nepal, several of the species
of which are very ornamental for
their flowers, and also for their fruit.
B. vulgaris, the common Berberry,
is a most elegant plant when trained
to a single stem, and then allowed
to expand its head freely on every
side: so treated, the branches be-
come drooping and have a fine effect
every spring, when they are covered
with their rich yellow blossoms ;
and in autumn, from their long red
fruit, which at a distance might be

—

_

mistaken for the flowers of a scarlet
Fuchsia. The Nepal species are:
B. Asidtica, a robust plant with
coarsely veined leaves, short ra-
cemes of flowers, and purplish fruit,
which is very good to eat, and which |

BIGNONIA.

130

ba NP oe Pee

BIRDS.

|for their large, brilliant-coloured

flowers. Many of the species have,
however, been now removed to
the genera Tecoma and Spathodea.
Most of the plants which are still
called Bignonia require the hot-

is covered with a fine bloom; B.; | house, but some will thrive in the

aristdta is less robust, with glossy |
fine-veined leaves, and long racemes |
of flowers; B. floribunda with long |
racemes of small flowers, and large |

leaves ; and B. Coridria with short |

racemes of large flowers, and finely-
veined lanceolate-leaves, and red
fruit. All these species have bright
yellow flowers, which appear in
spring, and are very ornamental.
They are also all quite hardy,
thriving in any common soil, and
easily propagated by ripened cut-

_ greenhouse, and one, B. capreolata,
is hardy. JB. venista is one of the
_handsomest hothouse species, and
when planted in the free soil, it
will produce its pale orange flowers
during the greater part of the sum-
|mer. ‘They are all of easy culture,
‘requiring chiefly abundance of
room, and cuttings of them all root
readily in sand. (See Tecoma.)
BILperry.
Brix, or Hangitees oak cuca
blade fixed in a wooden handle ; if

tings, layers, suckers, or seeds.—_| short, it is called a handbill, and if

See Manso'nia.

Be’/reeray.—See Be'rperis.

Bercamote.—A kind of mint.
See Me'nrma.

Brenntats._—Plants that do not
produce their flowers till the second
year, and then die after they have
ripened their seeds. The Brompton
Stocks, Hollyhocks, Wallflowers,
Snapdragens and Canterbury-bells,
are erent, though the latter four
frequently live three or four years.
Biennials should be sown in March
or April, thinned out in May, and
transplanted in September to the
place where they are to flower the
ensuing year. A little earth should
be taken up with the reots, when
they are transplanted, and they
should be well watered, and shaded
for a day or two, till their roots are
established. Those kinds which
require a peculiar soil, should have
pits prepared for them about a week
before they are transplanted, that
the earth may have time to settle.

Bicno'nia aE Eis
Bignonias or Trumpet-flowers once
formed a very large and splendid
genus, chiefly of climbers from
tropical countries, and remarkable

long, a hedge or pruning bill, and it
is used for cutting hedges, er pruning
| off the branches of trees.
BILLiaRDIE RA. — Piitosporee. —
|Appleberry. Climbing half hardy
shrubs, natives of Australia, with
bell-shaped flowers, and long berry-
like fruit which tastes like roasted
apples. The beautiful plant now
called Sollya was at first supposed
to belong to this genus. For the
culture, see AUSTRALIAN SHRUBS.
Binpweep.—The common Bind-
weed (Convéivulus s*pium L., Ca-
lystegia sépium, R. B.) with large
white flowers, and not unfrequent
in hedges, is one of the most orna-
mental of British twiners ; but in
gardens it has this disadvantage,
that its roots, or rather underground
shoots, spread rapidly, and aré very
difficult to eradicate.
Birps are generally considered
| enemies of gardens, and some kinds,
as the common sparrow, (when seeds
which are their usual foed, are
scarce), are apt to live upon buds,
especially blossom-buds, as being the
largest ; and others live upon fruits.
As, however, all the soft-billed kinds,
| which constitute the great majority

&

eee

BLETIA. ‘B81

BORDER.

of singing-birds found in our gar-
dens, live upon insects, ony |
on the aphides, and the caterpillars
or grubs of moths, flies, and beetles, |
they are rather to be considered
as advantageous to gardens than
otherwise.

Birp Cuerry.—Ceérasus Padus.
—See CrErasus.

Birp’s-Eye (Primula farinosa), |
a very neat little plant, cultivated | i
in peat soil and kept moist.

Birp’s-root Treroit.See Lotus.

Brirtuwort.—See ARIsTOLocHIA.

Biscute’iia.--Cructfere.—-Buck- |
ler Mustard. Hardy annuals with
yellow flowers, natives of Europe,
which only require sowing in the |
open border in March or April.

Birrer-sweet.—Soldnum Dul- |
cémara.—An indigenous suffrutes- |
cent climbing shrub, with pretty |
flowers and red ines common in ;
hedges.

Birtrer-vetcuH.—See O’rosus.

Buacxserry.—The common name ;
of the bramble.—See Ru‘sus.

Buiack Bryony.—See Ta‘mus.

Buiapper Kermia. — Hibiscus
Trionum and Africénus.——Hardy
annuals, natives of Italy and Bar-
bary. The seeds should be sown |
in March or April.—See ANNUALS. |

Biapper Nut.—See STaruy ea. |

|

BiappER Senna.—See Corure\a.

Buianpro’rpia.— Hemerocallidee.
—Showy plants with scarlet and |
green tube-like flowers ; natives of
New South Wales, of which B. |
nobilis, and B. grandifléra, well
deserve culture. Both species should |
be grown in sandy loam and pect; |
and they are increased by seeds or |
suckers.

Buressep TuistLE.— See Cern-
TAU‘REA.

Bux \t1a.— Orchiddcee.— Showy
plants, natives of the tropics, and
requiring stove heat in Britain.
They should be grown in sandy
loam and peat; and they are pro-
pagated by division of the roots,

rested by

| Heater

Buieut.—A popular term for the
sudden injuries which plants re-
ceive, apparently from the weather,
but in reality from the attacks of
insects, or the growth of parasitic
fungi. In general, whenever the
progress of plants is suddenly ar- ©
some cause not under-
stood, it is attributed to blight.
Blight differs from mildew, which
is always a fungus, in the latter
exhibiting a white, bluish, or mouldy

| appearance.

Burtum.—Chenopodiacee.—An-.
nuals of the easiest culture, of no
beauty with respect to the flowers,
but remarkable for the showy ap-
pearance of their spikes of succu-
‘lent scarlet fruit. The English
names of the species are Straw-
berry and Spinach Blite.

Bioop-rLowEr.— See Hama’n-
THUS.

Biumenpa’caia. — Loasécee. —
Dwarf annuals, with pretty white
flowers, and very curiously twisted
seed-pods; which only require sow-
ing in the open border in April
There is, however, one drawback
to their general cultivation, which
s, that they sting as badly as a
ieitle.

BLuEeBoTTLe.—See CENTAUREA.

Boc Eartu.—See Prat and
Movctp.

Bonara’rtEA.—See Lytr2's.

Borace.—See Bora'‘ao.

Bora'‘co. — Beraginee.—Annual
and perennial plants with blue,
white, or pink flowers, nearly allied
to the Forget-me-not. Natives of
the South of Europe and Persia;
of easy culture in any common soil.

Borper.—A border differs from
a bed in having a walk only on one
side ; and an ornamental border, in
which flowers or shrubs, or both,
are grown, ought to have the plants
so arranged in regard to height and
distance, as to have them seen to
the greatest advantage from the
walk. For this purpose the lowest-

o BORDER.

132

ae

BORONIA.

growing plants should be placed in
front, and the highest kinds behind
them, and the distance between the
different plants should be prcpor-

tioned to their breadth, not to their |

height ; because a very tall-grow-
ing plant, such as the common

Lily, is sometimes a very narrow |

one, and a low bushy plant, such
as the Peony, is sometimes three
times as broad asitis high. Hence,

in a border which is to be composed |

of a great variety of flowers, the
planis cannot be placed in rows, or
at regular distances; but a space
must be apportioned to each plant
according to iis width; keeping in
view the necessity of always leav-
ing a clear space of a few inches,

small. With regard to the mode
of arranging herbaceous plants in
borders with reference to the colour
of their flowers and time of flower-
ing, the object ought to be to have

an equal number of plants in flower |
in each of the floral months; and _
among the plants of each month to |

have as nearly as possible an equal
number of each of the principal
colours. This is the beau idéal that
the cultivator should keep in view ;
but it is not easy to carry it out in-
to practice without the assistance
of a reserve garden, and a number
of plants in pots, that can be
brought out when in flower on the
shortest notice, and substituted for
any plant which perhaps has not
come into flower sufficiently soon,
or which has not produced a pro-

porticnate quantity of flowers. ‘The |

best mode is to make a plan of the

border; and then to mark it with |

«ircles in the desired colours. When

this has been done, the name of |

.wo or three flowers of the proper
size and colour, for the situation,
should be written in each circle;
and then there will be no trouble
in planting the bed, as it will be
only necessary to refer to the plan,

‘to know what flowers are wanted.
When this is not done, the flewers
are planted at random, and they

will require taking os a ball

of earth attached to each when in
flower, and shifting about till a
proper effect 1s produced. When
the plants named in the circles con-
tinue only a short time in flower,
the names of others should be given
to fill their place when they are out
of bloom; and in this case the
circles may be numbered, and the
numbers referred to a book, where
‘the names of all the suitable plants,
and all necessary particulars re-
specting them, may be inscribed.
Borper FLtowexs.—Herbaceous

| plants of hardy constitution; showy
round every plant, whether large or |

in appearance, and of easy culture,
_and therefore well adapted for orna-
/menting the borders which acecom-
pany walks in gardens. ‘These are
classed as perennials with fibrous
roots, perennials with bulbous or
tuberous roots, biennials, and hardy
annuals. Among the fibrous-root-
ed perennials are some, such as
certain species of saxifrage, pinks
carnations, &c., which are ever
green, and these are most desirable
plants for the borders of winter
_gardens. ‘There are also evergrecn
biennials, such as wallflowers, stock
gilliowers, &c.

Boro'nts.— Rutdcee.-_Evergreen
New Holland shrubs, which flower
during the greater part of the sum.
mer, and which are all very orna-
‘mental. B. serruldta is a most
desirable species, forming a neat
compact plant for a room, or green-
house, and requiring plenty of light
and air, but very little heat. It,
_and all the other species, will grow
freely in sandy peat, weil drained,
/and they may be propagated by
layers or cuttings of the young
wood in sand, under a bell-glass,
taking care to wipe the glass fre-
quently, so as to keep the cuttings
free from damp.

¥
La

BOUVARDIA.

Bossia a.—Leguminose.— Ever-
green New Holland shrubs, which
all thrive ina mixture of turfy loam,
peat, and sand, well drained, and
which m e propagated by cut-
tings of the young wood.

Boranic GarpEen.—A garden de-
voted to the culture of plants with
a view to botanical science ; and in
which the plants are arranged ac-
cording to some system, only one
of a kind is planted, and a name
appended to each. ‘The most con-
venient mode for study is to place
the plants in straight rows of nar-
row beds, one row in a bed, with a

BROMPTON STOCKS.

smooth shming leaves. It grows
freely in loam and peat in a warm
situation in the open air, or in a
greenhouse ; and it is creased by
cuttings of the roots. B. versicolor
has fine red flowers and is very
ornamental, though it is more tender
thau B. triphy'lla.

Bowers.—Slight arbours, formed
by training climbing shrubs over
trellis-work so as to form 2 covered
seat. They only differ from arbours
in being less closely covered. See
ARBOURS.

Bo'x-TreeE.—See Buxus.

Box-epeines.—The kind of Box

narrow path between; but the best | used for this purpose is Buxus sem-

mode for effect is to place them in | pervirens nana.

groups of one order, tribe, or genus |
in a group. ‘These groups have

the best effect when of a circular |

form, and when placed on a lawn.
The position of the groups rela-
tively to each other should be such
as to correspond with the botanical
system followed.

For iis culture,
see Bu’xus.

Bracnyse\ma. — Leguminodse. —
B. latifolium is a very ornamental

|New Holland climber, with fine

Borrom neat is the warmth in-

parted to the roots of plants, by
plunging the pots in which they

grow into a hot-bed or baik-pii. |

The effect this produces in stimu-
lating the plants is very great; and
it is particularly advantageous in

striking cuttiags, which, under or- |
dinary circumstances, would not.

readily theow out roots. Bottom
heat is often very useful in enabling
hothouse plants to stand in the
open air during summer. A _ bed
may be formed of bark, decayed
leaves, or stable manure, in which

the pots may be plunged, and the ,
surface covered with a thin coating |

of turf; and in this manner all the
hothouse climbers might be trained
over the trellis-work of a veranda,
and Palms, Bananas, and other tro-
pical plants might be made to deco-
rate an English garden.

apart.

large glaucous leaves and erimson
flowers ; and it grows freely in loam
and peat, flowering abundantly, and
ripening seeds ; by which, or by
layers or cuttings, it may be readily
propagated.

Bramsie.—See Rou'svs.

Bri'za.— Graminee.— Quaking-__
grass. B.m-dia, the common kiad, )
is a perennial, and B. maxima, a
gigantic species, is an annual, re-
quiring only to be sown ian March
or April, in the open borders.

Brompron Srocxs. — Mathiola
incéna.— These splendid flowers are
biennials, and their seed should be
sown early in May, in a border of
light sandy soil with an eastern
exposure, and never in front of a
hothouse or south wall, as they
cannot bear too much heat. The
seeds should be sown very thinly in
narrow drills, made about six inches
As soon as the plants begin

to grow, and have expended their
second pair of leaves, they should

|be watered every evening with a

Bouva'rp1a.— Rubidcee.—B. iri- | watering-pot or garden-engine, hav-

phy'lla and its varieties are very ing a very fine rose.

When the

srnamental, with scarlet flowers and plants are about three inches high,

12

$$ Eee

BRUGMANSIA. 134 BRYONY.

they should be thinned out so as to / guinea, are magnificent species.
be at least six inches apart, and the | Being large plants, growing to the
plants removed should be carefully brea of ten or twelve feet, they
replanted in another bed. In about|look best when planted in the
a month’s time they should be! ground, in a cons ry ; but
thinned again, the alternate rows | they will grow well large pots :
taken up, so as to leave the remain- or they may be planted in the open
ing plants about a foot apart every | garden in the summer season, and
way ; the plants removed being taken up and preserved in a back
taken up with balls of earth and shed, from which the frost is ex-
carefully transplanted, watered, and cluded, during winter, to be replaced
shaded till they have re-established in the open border the following
themselves. Great care isnecessary spring. The flowers are trumpet-
in transplanting, as the Stocks have shaped, a foot or more in length,
long tap-roots, with very few fibrils and very fragrant. The plants
attached. When the plants are grow freely in light rich soil ; and
wanted to be very fine, they may they are readily propagated by cut-
be protected during winter by hoops tings either of the shoots or roots.
and mats, or hand-glasses, but in Bryo\nra.— Cucurbitdcee. —See
general this is not thought necessary. | Bryony.

in March or April a compost should| Bryony.—There are two kinds
be formed of very sandy loam or of Bryony common in English
sand, enriched with the remains of _ woods, very different in the eyes of
an old hotbed, or vegetable mould, a botanist, but bearing considerable
formed of decayed leaves; and pits resemblance to each other in the
about two feet deep and two feet in | eyes of an amateur. They are both
diameter dug in the flower-borders | found wild in hedges and thickets,
and filled with it, into which the through which they contrive to
Stocks should be transplanted, with | insinuate their long slender stems
as large balls of earth attached as | and branches, hanging from tree to
can be taken up. ‘They should be | tree; they have both greenish-white
carefully shaded and watered till inconspicuous flowers; the fruit of
they have taken root ; and after- both consists of branches of showy
wards they should be watered every | red berries; and beth of which have
night till they come into flower. | tuberous roots, of a very acrid na-
Thus treated, the spikes of flowers ture. They are also both diecious ;
will sometimes be from eighteen but this is the only botanical resem-
inches to two feet long, and propor- blance between them. ‘The White

tionably thick. Bryony (Bryénia dioica) belongs to
Broom.—See Spa’rtium and Ge-| the Natural Order Cucurbitacee,
ni/sTA. and it is the only British plant

Browa’Lua.—Scrophuldrine, or | belonging to that order. Its leaves
Solanacee.—South American ten- | are rough and palmate ; its flowers
der annuals, generally with blue | have a calyx and a corolla, both of
flowers, requiring to be raised on a/| which are five-cleft, and its stem ts
hotbed, and generally grown in pots. | climbing and furnished with numer-
See ANNUALS. ous tendrils. The Black Bryony

Bruema’nsta.— Soldnee.— Peru- (Tdmus commitnis) has, on the
vian shrubs, or low succulent- | contrary, smooth, shining, heart-
stemmed trees, of which B. swa- shaped leaves of a very deep and
véolens, (better known by the name | | glossy green ; the flowers consist of
of Datira arborea) and B. san- | only one covering, which is six-cleft,

— =

_—_— =

had

BUDDING.

and the stem is twining without |
tendrils. ‘The names of Black and |
White Bryony allude to the colour
of the skin covering the roots, which
in one species black and in the
other white. ‘The root of the White
Bryony may easily be made to grow
in any shape that may be wished by
placing it when young im an earthen-
ware mould. ‘This curious property
was formerly frequently taken ad-
vantage of by designing people, who |
having thus ebtained roots of frightful |
forms, showed them for money as |
natural curiosities.

Bucx-eEYE.—The American name
for the smooth-fruited horse-chest-
nut. See Pa'via.

Buckier Mustarp.—See Biscu-
T ELLA.

BucktTuorn.—See Rua’mnus. |

Buppinc is an operation for |
propagating ligneous plants, as a |
substitute, in particular cases, for
grafting, or other modes of propa-
gation. In floriculture, it is more
particularly used for propagating |
select species of roses. The time
of performing the operation is from |
July to September ; and the mode
is as follows:—The first thing to be
done is to select a young shoot of
the current year, from which the
bud is to be taken, and a stock of |
one or of several years’ growth, into
which the bud is to be inserted.
The bud is cut out with a portion |
of the bark, and the wood attached
above and below the footstalk of a_
leaf, in the axil of which leaf the |
bud is situated. To do this, a sharp |
penknife or budding-knife is inserted |
in the shoot, about three-fourths of
an inch below the bud, and passed
up beneath the bud to about half an
inch above it ; the bud, with the bark
and wood to which it is attached, is |
then held in the left hand, and with
the knife in the right hand the thin
film of weod is quickly picked out, |
leaving the bud attached to a piece |
of bark, technically called the shield. |

135

BUDDING.

A slit is then made im the back of
the stock, about one-third of an inch
in length, and a transverse cut is
made within one-fourth of an inch
of the upper part of the longitudinal
slit. The bark is opened on both
sides of the longitudinal slit by means
of a thin flat piece of bone or ivory;
or, in Nursery practice, with the end
of the handle of the knife, which
is made thin on purpose. The bud
is now inserted in its natural position,
with the bud looking upwards, and a
portion of the upper part of the bark
to which the bud is attached is cut
across, so as to fit to the transverse
cut which was formed in the stock.
The bud is made fast in its situation
by tying it with a strand or ribbon
of bast matting. This being done
in summer or autumn, the matting

Fig. 1—Common or Shield Budding

remains on for a month or six weeks,
according to circumstances, till the
back of the bud shows, by its healthy
appearance, that a vital union has
taken place. The matting may now
be loosened, and in a week or two

Fig. 2.—Niche Budding.

altogether removed. By another
mode, differing a little from the
above, the cut across is made below

BUDDING.

136

BUDDING.

the slit, as shown in fig. 1, in which d
shows the cuts made in the stock, e
the bud inserted, and f the bast mat
applied. Niche budding is when
the wood is retained in the bud, as
shown in fig. 2, in which g is the
prepared stock; c the bud turned
to show the wood, and a 6 the bud

applied, which should afterwards |

be bound with bast mat, as before.
In placing the bud on the stock in
niche-budding, the principal thing
to be attended to is, to bring the
horizontal edges of the base of the
niche in the stock, and those of the
bud, which is to fit into it, into the
most perfect contact possible ; be-
cause the union is produced, not as
in common summer budding, by the
junction of the soft wood of the
stock with the rudiment of the soft
wood on the inside of the bark of
the bud, but by the junction of soft

Fig. 3—French Budding.

will always succeéd best, when the
niche in the stock is made where
there is already a bud, (as shown at
g,) making the horizontal cut through
the base of the padi

Figs. 3 to 6, show an improved
mode of budding, which has been
lately found in France to be re-
markably successful. The bud is
prepared in the usual manner, except
that both ends of the shield are cut
square across, as at ad, in fig.3. On
the stock the bark is cut horizontally,
and vertically to a smaller extent, as
indicated at b. This being done,
the right hand of the operator applies
the thin flat point, or spatula, of the
handle of the budding-knife on one
side of the incision, and passes it
through to the other side; the strap
of bark is then torn down, as shown
at c, in fig.4, the thumb being placed
on the upper part of it, so as to hold
it firm against the blade of the
budding-knife, while with the left
hand the bud or shield is inserted
in its place. This being done, the
shield is cut across, so as to fit ex-
actly to the bark of the stock at its
upper part; and, next, a portion is
cut off the raised bark, so as to re-
duce it to such a length as will bring
it exactly up to the lower side of the
bud, as shown at d, in fig. 5. The
bud is then tied, as shown at e, in
jig. 63; but with the petiole of a leaf
included in the upper part of the tie,

the leaf suspended from whichserves ~

to shield the bud from the sun. By
this mode of budding, the soft wood
is less injured than by the common
mode, in which it is always more or
less scratched by the blade of the
budding-knife, and is sometimes re-
moved altogether ; when, of course,

the bud has no éHelnee of success.
This mode of budding is particularly

adapted for thin-barked shrubs, and
more especially for roses.
Another mode is called annular

wood with soft wood, as in common flute-budding ; ; in which a branch
grafting. This ‘inode of budding | or shoot is chosen on the tree which

a 2

BUDDING. 137 BUL DING.

is to be propagated, as thick as, or | shoot, as it grows, should be slight-
thicker than, the stock in which the | ly tied to the portion of stock left on
bud is to be inserted. A ring of | above the bud, in order to prevent
bark including a bud is then cut off | it from being injured by high winds.
from the br of the shrub which | The second year this portion of the
is to be p ated, and detached stock may be cut off close to the
by splitting it longitudinally on one bud.
side. A similar ring of bark is then
detached from the stock, and the
former inserted in its place, and

tied on with matting. This mode

of budding is found particularly
suitable for all trees or shrubs hay-

ing thick bark. There are many
other kinds of budding, but these are

in the most general use.

Fig. 6.—French Budéding.

Buds may be inserted in stocks
at a few inches from the ground:
in which case, the plants produced
are called dwarfs; or in straight
stems at four, five, or six feet from
the ground: in which case the
plants produced are called stand-

Fiss. 4 and 5,—French Budding. ards. The latter is the most com-
mon mode of budding Roses and

It sometimes happens in the case | Orange trees ; but other shrubs and
of roses, that the bud will produce trees of rare or ornamental kinds
a shoot the same season in which it are commonly budded within a foot,
has been inserted; but it more fre- or a few inches from the ground.
quently remains dormant till the | Sometimes buds of several kinds
following spring. At this period are inserted in the same stock ; and
the stock should be cut over a few sometimes buds are inserted in
inches above the bud; and the | branches in different parts of a tree,

“ 12*

BULBS. eS wv 138 BULBS.

for the sake either of supplying
vacant places in the branches, or
of producing several kinds on the
same tree. Thus on climbing Bri-
tish Roses, several varieties of
Chinese Roses may be _ budded;
and on the single red Camellia,
several varieties of double or white
Camellias.

In all cases of budding, it 1s es-
sential that the stock shall not be
very different from the bud to be
inserted in it. In some eases it is
even necessary thatythe bud and
the stock should, be of the same
species; while on the other hand it
sometimes happens that a bud may
be inserted successfully in any
stock which is of the same natural
order. Thusthe Lilach, the Olive,
and the Fringe tree, may be budded
on the common Ash; all the four
species being of the same ae
order, Cledcez: Roses and The
are the plants to which pulang
most commonly applied by ama-
teurs; and the finer kinds of the

former genus are generall gees
on wild briers of the Dog-

of the latter (Crategus), the
common Hawthorn. % :
Bu'ppiea. — Scrophularin

Deciduous or evergreen shrubs,
natives of India or South America,
of which one species, B. globésa, is
worth culture in the shrobl bery. It
has fine golden yellow, ball-lke
flowers, growing in any common

soil, and is tolerably hardy, though

it is sometimes killed by very severe
frost. It is readily re Ny
cuttings under a handglas -

Boxes are plants w =hich belong
to a particular division cf yegeta-
bles, having certain peculiarities

which require a particular mode of | it ought to

culture. They are all, with searce-
ly a single exception, very orna-
mental, from the very large size of
their flowers in proportion to the
entire plants, and from the brillian-

cy of their colors. Their principal | indigenous to Britain , Such

a

SS he Sl

peculiarity is, that they produce but
a limited number ef leaves every
season ; and hence, if these leaves
are cut off or injured, no new leaves
are produced that season. In all
other herbaceous plants, when the
leaves are destroyed, fresh leaves
are produced to a comparatively
unlimited extent ; and hence, if the
season be long enough, the plant
may produce a sufficiency of foliage
in the eurrent year to enable it to
mature flowers in the next. But
in bulbs the different ; me

case is
leaves roa

fully grown, or cut off Li. ae
begin to decay,, the bi bulb is pies a
‘of nourishment to such. an extent,
as either not to flower at all the
| following season, or to flower very
weakly. Thus, the great art in the
culture of bulbs is to preserve all
eir leaves uninjured, to expose
them fully to the sun and air, and
by no means to cut them off till
they have begun to decay at the
extremilies. By far the greater
number of bulbs flower in spring,
and produce their flower-stems im-
mediately after they begin to grow;
shortly. after they have flower-
ease growing, and remain
dormant and without leaves during —
the remainder of the year. Hence, —
almost all bulbs require to be plant- —
3 and hence, also,
they require free, a and some.
what rich 9s ppc Pree
at

cure nourishme
for their ray
tds le bulb is in all
ed by preventing
producing ob

the leaves have |
served igfedr} sand o

some Case shelves,
in a dry room, till the ¥

‘ >. ’
ot DULL

son in aut

————

of the common wild Hyacinth, and
some of the Narcissi, receive little

injury from remaining in the ground |

all the year ; but improved varieties

of indigenous bulbs, and all bulbs |

from warm climates, such as those
of the Hyacinth, the Ixias, &c.,

are greatly injured by the moisture |
of our summers; and when left in |
the ground, require the interposition |

of art to keep the soil tolerably dry.
From the circumstanee of bulbs

BULBS.

“are formed every year in the Tulip

and Hyacinth, at the side of the old
bulb ; in the Crocus and the Gladi-
olus, and many of the Cape Irida-
cee, over the bulb; and in the
bulbous Irises, &c., under the bulb.
Hence, in the cultivation of bulbs
in the open garden, there is a con-
stant tendency in some species to
sink deeply into the ground, and
in others to rise to the surface,
which must be carefully counteract-

growing with great rapidity when | ed by the cultivator, by taking up

in a state of vegetation, they require

a __- abundance of water; and thisis the |
oe ~ reason why the soil in which they |
are planted : should always be deep, |
so as to retain moisture.
essentially a bud, and contains with.

in itself the germs of the leaves and
flowers which are to be produced
the following season.

vegetables, those with netted leaves;
or what are called Dicotyledones, a
plant which is weak in the begin-
ning of the year may, by increased
care and nourishment, be made to
flower in the course of the season ;
but this is by no means the case

with bulbs, not one additional leaf

or flower being in their case capable | Hya
of being produced during the season,
that is not previously in an embryo
state in the bulb. The , in one
sense, bulbs are of more culture
than any other class Siiplants be-
cause the germ being previously
formed, and the nourishment bein

sx "provided i in the body of the bulb, it
; 2 is only necessary to supply heat and
-- moisture to cause t

se to develop.
eee the | practice of growing
Se of teak Tulips, Nar-
es, Snowérops, | c
ced * water
enware,
ver last
‘one year, a new one
season the plant

ae ¢ se ering, as the old bulb
.. ae ca le Hence new bulbs

- scone ee Biles

In plants be-
longing to the other division of |
bulb being always produced at one

Tyee)

and replanting; thus, the bulbous
Iris, when left three or four years
in the ground, produces weak leaves,
and ceases to flower freely, from

A bulb is | the sinking of the bulbs; the Cro-

cus, on the other hand, produces
weal: flowers and leaves from the
bulbs rising above the surface ; and
e Tulip} if left in the ground for
few years, in consequence of the

side, i is never found to come up
twice exactly in the same spot.
Experience proves, that certain

bulbs — are ma state far re.
moved from wild. nature, require

the ae care to preserve them
isease, such as the cultivated
Hyacinth. These, therefore, must

be taken up; every: year, and eare-

fally preserved ; while others, com-

paratively incapable of much, cul-
tivation, such as the Snowdrop, may
be left in the ground a number of
years without inju-y. Bulbs are

egenerally propagated by little bulbs,

produc ced by the side of the old ones,
which are called offsets ; but, like
all other plants, they may be pro-
pagated by seeds, and from these,
in the case of the Crocus and Hya-

inth, the Crown Imperial, and Iris
Xiphiumh, and [Iris Xiphiodes, an
endless number of beautiful varieties
may be produced. This furn’shes
a fine source of interesting amuse-
ment to the amateur. The seeds
should be sown in beds of light
earth, where the plants may remain

>

BUTOMUS.

till they come into flower, which |
wil generally be in from three to
five years. ‘The soil for almost all
bulbs should be a free sandy loam, |
and the situation open, and fully
exposed to the sun.

Buxsoco‘piuom.— Melanthacec.—
Bulbous plants, natives of Spain|
and the Crimea; flowering in
March and August, and of easy |
culture in loamy soil. B. vérnum,
which does not grow above four |
inches in height, is a desirable plant
for growing in a pot.

Buxzoco‘pium.— The Hoop-pet-
ticoat Narcissus; a pretty little
species, not above six inches high.

Borxev‘zum. — Umbellifere. —
Hare’s-ear. Herbaceous plants,
with greenish-yellow flowers, and
very glaucous or bluish leaves.
They are natives of Europe, and
will grow in any common garden-
soil. Several shrubs are included
by some botanists in this genus ; |
but they were separated by Spren-
gel, and formed into the genus
Tenéria. ‘These are rather tender,
being natives of the shores of the
Mediterranean and the Cape of
Good Hope; but near London they
will bear ordinary winters in the
open air. They should be grown
in sandy loam.

Burto\nta.— Leeuminise.--_New
Holland shrubs, of which B. con-
férta is the most desirable species.
It grows to the height of two feet,
and produces its violet - coloured
flowers from July to September.
For its culture, see AvusTRALIAN
SHRvzs.

Burvcuer’s Broom.—See Ro’scus.

Burrer ano Eees.—A kind of
Narcissus. |

Bo'romus. —- Butémee. —The |

140

ee ee ee

BUXUB.
BurrerrLies.—These beautiful
insects are never injurious to gar-
dens except in their caterpillar state.
As butterflies, they only sip a little
honey from the flowers; their sole
business being to propagate their
species, and then they die. Thus,
the butterflies that are almost al-
ways on the wing, and which are
the males, may be suffered to flut-
ter out their brief existence unmo-
lested; but when a butterfly is

found sitting on a branch with its

wings folded, in bright sunshine, it
should be destroyed, as the butter-
flies found in this position are gene-
rally females, just about to lay
their eggs. Sometimes, butterflies
thus placed are found, when they

/are examined, to be dead; and

when this is the case, the adja-
cent branches and leaves should be
searched for eggs.

Bourrerrty Puanrs.—See Oncr’-
pium and PuHaL2no’Psis.

Bo'xus, L.—Luphorbidcee—
There are only two species known ;
viz., B. sempervirens, and B. ba-
ledrica, the Minorca Box, both
hardy shrubs or low trees. The
former is one of the most valuable
plants in European gardens, both
as an undergrowth in woods, and
as an ornamental hedge for shelter-
ing gardens. Box is also much
used for forming edges to walks ;
but the kind employed for this pur-
pose, though it is considered to be
only a dwarf variety of B. semper-
virens, is so different from the Tree-

'box in its habits, that it might al-

most be considered as a distinct
species. The Box-tree has been
grown in European gardens almost
from time immemorial. It was one
of the principal ornaments in the

flowering Rush. One of the hand-| gardens of Pliny; and in more
somest of aquatic plants, deserving | modern times the Dwarf-box was
a place in every aquarium. It /| almost the only plant used for form-
grows to the height of two feet, and | ing the embroidery or seroll-work, or
produces its elegant head of pink| whatever that terrestrial arabesque
flowers in June and July. may be called, which came into

Pe

a O™&

BUXUS.

fashion in the time of Louis XIV.
At present, this kind of scroll-work
is no longer in use; but the Dwarf-
box is still a favourite for edgings
to beds, and it will be perhaps al-
ways prelerred to all other plants,

from its hardiness, easy culture, |
It |
is also evergreen, and oi great!

and compact habit of growth.

duration ; it is easily propagated,
and bears clipping or cutting re-
markably well, It is readily pro-
pagated by taking up the plants,
and aiter dividing them, replanting

them farther apart, and a litle)

deeper than they were before. It
will grow in any soil not saturated
with moisture, and it may be cut
or cilpped at any season of the
year. ‘The best time for clipping
Box, however, is about the end ot

June; after which, especially. if

well watered, the box makes a se-
cond shoot of half an inch, or an
inch in length, which obliterates
the marks of the shears. To form
edgings of Box properly, is an ope-
ration of gardening that requires
considerable care. First, the ground
should be rendered firm and eyen;
secondly, a narrow trench should
be accurately cut out with the
spade in the direction in which the
edging is to be planted; thirdly, the
Box should be thinly and equally
laid in along the trench, the tops
being all about an inch above the
surface of the soil; and fourthly,
the seil should be applied to the
_ plants, and firmly trodden in against
- them, su as to keep the edging ex-
actly in the position required. ‘I'he
trench should always be made on
_ the side next the walk, and after the
_ soil is pressed down, and the walk
- gravelled, the gravel is brought up,
over the soil, close to the stems of
the Box, so as to cover the soil at
least an inch in thickness, and to
prevent any soil being seen on the
gravel-walk side of the Box. This

i4]

BUXUS.
alsu prevents the Box frum grow-
ing too luxuriantly ; as it would be
apt to do, if the trench were on the
border side, when the plants would
lean against the gravel, and the
roots, being entirely covered with
soil, would grow with so much
luxuriance, that the plants would
be with diiiculty kept within
bounds by chppmg. A Box-edging
once properly made, and clipped
| every year, so as to form a minia-
ture hedge about three inches wide
at bottom, three inches high, and
two inches wide at top, will last tea
or twelve years before it requires
to be taker up and replanted ; but,
|if the edging be allowed to attain
a larger size—say, six inches wide
at bottom, six inches high, and
three inches wide at top,—it will
last fifteen or twenty years, or
probably a much longer period.
Box-hedges for shelter are treated
lise other hedges, and being clip-
ped at the same period as Box-
edgings, will last for an unknown
period, probably for centuries ; pro-
vided the suriace of the hedge, or
in other words, the points of the
shoots, are cut back occasionally,
so as to admit the air to the centre cf
the hedge. ‘The Box, when used to
execute arabesques, or scroll-work
on the ground, is not allowed to
grow higher than two or three
inches, and is cut quite flat at top;
the entire figure of the arabesque
being formed cf Box, without the
introduction of flowers or other
plants; though occasionally with
the addition of small cones or globes
of Box rising up from the terminal
points of the arabesque figure. These
cones, pyramids, globes, or other
figures, are kept in cerrect shape,
by being clipped every year. When
verdant sculpture was in fashion,
no tree excepting the Yew was so
well adapted for it as the Box ; and
the tree was cut into the proper

CACTUS. CACTUS.
shape, by putting a wire frame of 75° of latitude, some being found

the desired form over the tree, and near the boundary of the United
| States, and some near the town of

clipping the branches to it. |

C.
Laca\u1a, L.—Composite.— C.

afeareines, L., Emilia coccinea, Cass.,

isa half-hardy annual, with a bright
scarlet flower, somewhat resem-
bling that of the common Ground-
sel. It is cultivated for the bril-
liancy of the colour of its flowers,
though it is scarcely worth the
trouble it requires ; as it must not
only be raised on a hotbed, but its
long slender stalks must be staked
and tied up, to make it look at all
neat. There are several perennial
species of Cacalia, but they are
very seldom seen in British gardens.

Ca’ctus, L.— Cactacee.— The
very remarkable succulent plants,
arranged by Linneus under the
name of Cactus, have been distri-
buted by modern botanists over
numerous genera, which they are
still continually changing and re-
arranging. At first a few plants
were left in the genus Cactus, but
now that genus is annihilated, and
seven or eight new genera substi-
tuted for it; still, as all the plants
that once composed it, and the
new ones of the same nature that
collectors are continually sending
home, are known by the general
name of Cacti, it has been thought
advisable to give here a slight
sketch of the whole family.

In the time of Linneus, very
few Cacti were known; and even
in the year 1807, Persoon enume-
rated only thirty-two, but now
above five hundred living species
are to be found in a single collec-
tion; and numbers of new species
are being sent home by collectors
every year.

Conception in Chil. By far the
greater number, however, grow in
the dry burning plains of Mexico
and Brazil, where they are sub-
jected to the alternate seasons of
extreme moisture and extreme
drought. In these arid plains,
where all nature seems parched
up for six months in every year,
the Cacti have been mercifully pro-
vided to serve as reservoirs of moist-
ure; and not only the natives, by
wounding the fleshy stems with
their long forest-knives, supply
themselves with a cool and refresh-
ing juice, but even the cattle con-
trive to break through the skin
with their hoofs, and then to suck
the liquid they contain—instinct
teaching them to avoid wounding
themselves with the spines.

The Cacti are arranged by nature
in several distinct groups ; the first
of which consists of the tree Cacti,
or those kinds of Cereus, which
have long, slender stems, and which
usually grow on the summits of
the mountains of Brazil, forming
a singular kind of crest. These
are generally thirty or forty feet
high, and sometimes are branched
like candelabra, and sometimes
consist of only one naked stem, not
thicker than a man’s arm, though
of such enormous height. The
Mammalarias, and Echinocacti, or
Porcupine Cacti, which form anoth-
er group, grow in the valleys of
the temperate regions, genérally in
loamy soils, and low grass; and
the Opuntias and Pereskias, which
form two others, are also princi-
pally found in the temperate lati-
tudes. The Melocacti, or Melon-
Cacti, and the Rhipsalis, which has
narrow jointed stems, are two other

These new species are| groups which are only found in

chiefly found in the tropical regions | the hottest parts of the . tropics.
of America, but they extend over! Among the many peculiarities of

Payee

CAESALPINIA 143

this family of plants, it may be |

mentioned, that if collectors cut off |

the top of any of the Cacti which
they may find in flower, and send
it with the flower on it to eee
the seeds will perfect themsely
and ripen on the passage home,
from the supply of moisture con-
tained in the divided part.

With regard to the culture of the
Cacti in this country, it is found that,
generally speaking, they ought to
have a season of complete rest fol-
lowed by one of violent excitement ;

that is, they ought to be kept almost |

without water from October to
March, and then watered profusely
while they are coming into flower.
They ought all to be grown in pots
well drained with cinders, instead of
potsherds, as the latter retain too
much moisture for the delicate and
succulent roots; and they all enjoy
bottom heat, which makes them
throw out abundance of fibrils.
When received late in the year, that
is to say in October or later, they
should not be potted till the following
spring ; and when raised from seed,
(which is frequently sent over, even
in dead specimens,) the seed should
be sown in silver sand, and the

young plants when transplanted |

should not be watered for several
days.

Cazsabp'inta, Pluk.—Leguminése.
—The splendidly-flowering plant,
known in the West Indices by the
name of the Barbadoes Flower-fence,
which was formerly included in this
genus, is now called Poincidna. It
should be grown in a mixture of loam
and peat, with abundance of room
for its roots; and, though generally
considered a stove plant, it is found
to live in the open air in London and
Paris, if slightly protected during
winter. It is propagated by cuttings
struck in sand, in a moist heat under
glass. The other plants belonging
to the genus are seldom found in
British gardens.

CALCEOLARIA.

Caua'mrewis, D. Don—See Ec-
CREMOCA/RPAS.

Catanpri'nta. — Portulécee. —
Peruvian and Californian plants,
with fleshy leaves and showy flow-
ers, generally treated as annuals, but
most of which will live two or three
years in a greenhouse. There is
some confusion about the specific
names; the plants figured in the
Botanical Magazine as C. speciosa,
and ©. grandiflora, being quite dif-
ferent from those figured under these
names in the Botanical Register,
and known by them in the London
nurseries. Of the kinds sold in the
London sisi’ C. arenaria has

| small flowers, and is not worth grow-

ing ; C. speciésa, Lind. (Talinum
cili jatum, Bait et Pavon,) is a Cali
fornian annual, with beautiful rich

| crimson Gowers which seem reclin-

ins on their bed of dark green leaves,

and which have no fault but that of
closing at four o’clock in the day;
C. grandi jiora, Lind., the flowers of
which, notwithstanding its name,
are muca smuller than those of the
C. d’scolor, Lind. ; the latter being
one of the most splendid flowers that
will grow in the open air in England.
The seeds of the latter two species
(both of which grow rather tall) are
generally raised on a slight hotbed,
but they may be sown in a warm
border in the open air in April, when
they will flower in June.

Catcargous Soits.—Scils con-
taining a considerable portion of
lime or chalk, mixed with sand or
loam, and decaying vegetable and
animal matter. Calcareous soils
are generally productive ; and when
manured, they retain and give out
slowly the nourishing parts of the
manure longer than any other kind
of soil.

Cauceo.a ria. — Scrophulérine.
—Perhaps no plants hybridize more
freely than the different species of
this genus ; and what is remarkable
is, that the shrubby kinds appear to

CALCEOLARIA.

CALENDULA.

unite freely with those that are
herbaceous. In 1820, ouly half a
dozen species were known, onl) one
of which, C. corymbosa, Cav., with
large yellow flowers, had any pre-
tensions to beauty. In the next ten

years, five or six more species were |

introduced from Chili, two of which,
C. arachnéidea, and C. purpirea,
Grah., had purple flowers. The lat-
ter closely resembled C. corymbosa
in its habit of growth; and about

April, 1830, the happy idea struck |
the late Mr. Penny, of the Milford |

Nursery, to attempt to hybridize
them. The result was the hybrid,

C. Gellaniana, the flowers of which |
Mr. |
Penny then tried C arachnéidea as |

were orange and dark brown.

one of the parents, instead of C.
purpurea, aud he produced the mag-
nificent Calceolaria, which he called
C. Youngit, which is still common
in collections. In 1831, the spotted-
flowered Calceolaria, C. crenat:flora,
Cav., (C. péndula, D. Don.) was
introduced, and from this several
splendid hybrids were raised. Some
cultivator was then induced to try
to hybridize one of the shrubby kinds,
C. bicolor, the flowers of which
were pale yellow and white, with
the herbaceous kinds having dark
yellow and purple flowers, and some
beautiful plants were the result.
From that time to the present, innu-
merable hybrids have been raised
every year, varying through every
possible shade of crimson, brown,
orange, purple, pink, and yellow,
sometimes spotted, and sometimes
delicately melting into white. One
or two have been raised which were
pure white, and others white with
clearly marked and distinct spots.
They are all half-hardy, only re-
quiring protection from frost ; and
they should be grown in a compost
of equal parts of turfy loam and peat,
with a little sand. They all require
a good deal of water, as even the
little hardy shrubby kind, C. rugosa,

with small, dark yellow flowers, will
flag, if water should be neglected
even for a single day. The herba-
_ceous kinds are still more susceptible
im this respect, and, when grown in
ts, should stand in saucers of
water ; the water being changed
| every day, and never giver to them
till it has been warmed by standing
for a little time in the same tempera-
ture as the plants.

Calceolarias are propagated by
cuttings, which strike readily in the
same soil as that in which the plants
are grown ; and which do not even
require the aid of a bell-glass, though
they will certainly strike sooner un-
der one than without. The seeds
ripen in great abundance, and they
should be sown as soon as they are
ripe. ‘The young plants should be
piricked out as soon as they come up,
and then transplanted imto larger
and larger pots, increasing gradually
in size, and each being only a little
larger than the preceding one, till
they begin to show flower-buds ;
and when thus treated, they will
flower the following summer. When
the seeds are not sown till spring,
they will not flower till the second
summer. ‘There is only one annual
Calceolaria, C. pinndta, and it is
not worth growing.

Cate/npuLA.—Compoésite. — The
Marigold. ‘There are several hand-
some species, some of which are
shrubby, and some annuals; the
common Marigold, C. officinalis, and
its varieties, and C. stellata, are the
handsomest of the annual species.
The Cape Marigolds, C. pluvialis,
and C. hy'brida, have been removed
by Professor De Candolle to a new
genus, which he calls Dimorphothe-
ca. Both these species are hardy
annual plants, with very elegant
flowers, which close at the with-
drawal of the sun; and, as they
do not open at all when dark heavy
clouds foretell the approach of rain,
Linneeus called the commonest spe~

CALLIOPSIS.

cies Caléndula pluvializ, or the | |
rainy Marigold. The florets of the |

of a pure white inside,
dark purple on the outside : : while |
those of C. hydrida are of a di
orange outside.

Cauirorntan ANNUALS—Beauti-
ful annual plants, mostly sent home

hia, on the northwest coast of North
America. They all bear cold much
better than they do heat; and they
will live through the British winters
in the open air, without any protec-
tion, though they are easily killed
by the heat of summer, okie e
if their roots become by any chance
exposed to the full rays of the sun.
The roots are indeed very feeble,
particularly at the collar, where
most plants are strong; and they
will die in a few hours if the sun}
strikes this vital part. Nature has
provided against this danger, by
giving most of these plants a trail-
ing habit, and thus covering the
roots with abundance of leaves ‘and
stems; but cultivators, not being
aware of the use of this, often, by
training their plants over a frame,
&c., expose the collar, and thus kill
their plants. For the mode of sow-
ing, &c., see ANNUALS.
Ca'Ltua.—See Arum.
Caxui'curoa. — Compédsite.— C.
plaiyglossa, the only species known,
is a showy Callipinian annual, with
golden yellow flowers, requiring the
usual treatment of Californian an-
nuals.
Cau.io'psis.— Compdésite.—Eve-
one knows the beautiful plants
which compose this genus under
their old name of Coreepsis; from
which genus they have been sepa-
rated on account of a slight differ-
ence in the internal structure of the
flower. The new and old names
have some resemblance in point
of sound, but they are very different
in origin, for Coreopsis is derived

by Douglas, and natives of Califor-

145

| from the Gre
from the rese
ray of the flowers of this piant are | to that insect ;
and of a| from ka'listos, si

CALOCHORTUWS.

‘+k word koris, a bug,
mblance of the seeds
while Calliopsis is
ignily ing most bean-
tiful. ‘The species are Soe an-
nuals and perennials; the former
of which may be sown in autumn,
as they will cia! the winter with-
out any protection, and will thus
come into flower early in summer.
All the species will grow in any
common soil; and the perennial
kinds are propagated by division of
the root. Callidpsis bicolor is the
same as Coredpsis tinctoria.

Cauisrx'MaA.—One of the botanic
names for the China Aster.—See
| CALLISTE‘PAUS,

Cauurste\mon.— Myrticee—Aus-
tralian shrubs, with evergreen leaves
and tassel-like fowers, better known
by their old name of Metrosideros
They should be grown in sandy
loam; and cuttings of the old wood
strike freely in sand under a bell-
glass.

CaxuistE‘pnus, Dee.—Compésite.

—The China Aster, which some bot-
anists now call by this name, is one
of the most ornamental annuals in
British gardens. There are many
varieties, and those known as the
German Asters are considered the
most beautiful. They should be
raised on a hotbed, in February or
March, pricked out when the plants
have two or three leaves, anditrans-
planted into the open garden in
May, where they will make a very
fine appearance in September and
October. They should be grown in
light rich soil, or in loam and thor-
oughly rotten dung.

Catuu'na, D. Don.—The common
Heather or Ling—See Ent‘ca.

CaLocuo’rtus. — Tulipdcee. —
Californian bulbs with splendid flow-
ers, but rather difficult of culture.
They require a very sandy soil,
which should be covered with litter
in frosty weather, if the bulbs are
not taken up as soon as they have

“4

*

CAMELLIA.

done flowering in autumn. They
produce their large lilach and white
flowers in August and September,
and occasionally ripen a few seeds,
by which, or by offsets, they may
be increased slowly.

Cau’'tHa.— Ranunculdcee.—The
Marsh Marigold.

aLyca’NTHus. — Calycanthacee.
—Deciduous shrubs from North
America, with dark brownish purple
flowers, remarkable for their fra-
grance, as well as their rich colour.
The plants thrive best in loam and
peat, but they will grow in any soil
that is not very stiff and moist ; and
they are commonly propagated by
layers. Most of what are called
different species, are only varieties
of C. floridus, the American All
spice tree. ‘The scent of the flew-
ers is commonly thought to resemble
that of ripe fruit. Calycanthus pre-
coz, the Japan Allspice, is now
called by De Candolle, Chimonan-
thus fragrans, or the Winter-flower,
as it produces its flowers about
Christmas.—See Cuimona'nTHUS.—
[C. floridus is the sweet-scented
shrub of the American gardens.—
Ep.]

Catyste‘e1a.— Convolouldcee.—
The new name for the common
hedge Convolvulus, and some ether
species from America resembling it.
The red variety of C. sépium, com-
monly called the American Convol-
vulus, makes a very pretty covering
fora bower. They grow best in
sandy or gravelly soil.

Came'Luia.— Ternstremiacee.—
Evergreen shrubs with splendid
flowers, from China, of which C.
japonica, and its numerous garden
varieties, are in general cultivation
in all the greenhouses of Europe
and America. Some of the yarie-
ties, as for example C. j. variegata,
the variegated red, are so hardy as
to stand the open air, either as

CAMELLIA.

tected during frosty weather. It is
a curious fact, that many tender
and half-hardy plants will grow
freely, and produce abundance of
flowers, if their roots and collars are
protected, in a temperature that
would kill them immediately, if
these tender parts were exposed to
the influence of the cold. Thus,
when Camellias are planted out, if
thé roois are protected during win-
ter, by mulching, (that is, covering
with straw or litter,) and the main
trunk is wrapped round for about
six or eight inches from the ground,
with a hayband, or any other cover-
ing, the rest of the plant may be
left entirely exposed without its sus-
taining the shghtest injury. Camel-
lias are commonly cultivated in
sandy loam and peat, and this soil
is perhaps the best for them when
they are grown in pots; but when
they are planted out in a conserva-
tory, or the open ground, they will
thrive exceedingly well in sandy
loam, mixed with rotten dung, or
leaf-mould. When the plants are
in a growing state, they require
abundance of water, both at the
roots, and over the leaves; taking
care, however, never to wet the
leaves when the sun is shining upon
them ; as wherever this occurs, the
leaves becoine stained, or blotched,
and look as though they were seald-
ed. When Camellias are kept in
a greenhouse or conservatory, im-
perfections in the glass will produce
the same effect. The temperature
of the Camellia house should be
between fifty and sixty degrees dur-
ing the growing season; but when
the flower-buds are formed, it may
be lower, till the beginning of win-
ter, when the buds begin to swell.
At this season the temperature
ought not to be suffered to fall be-
low fifty degrees, otherwise the
buds wil be liable to drop off; and

standards, or planted against a wall; | they will also drop, if watering be
particularly if their roots are pro-| neglected. Ail the species and va-

aa

CAMPANULA.

147

CAMPANULA.

rieties may be propagated by cut-| leaves ; which renders them par-
tings, taken off at the base of a ticularly adapted for rockwork, or

leaf, or at a joint, as soon as the’ growing in pots.

Some of the spe-

wood is ripened, and planted in sand | cies are so tall, as to require to be
under a glass; but the finer varie=| planted at the back of borders, or
ties are generally propagated by|in as gle row, along with other
layering, and in-arching, or graft-| tall plants; such, for example, as

ing.
a very rapid mode of procuring

plants by grafting, which they effect |
under bell-glasses, in strong moist)

heat, with scions of the young wood,
on stocks formed of cuttings struck
the same season. From the Ca-
mellia being an evergreen, and its
leaves being large, dark-green, and
shining, it makes a very fine ap-
pearance against a conservative

wall; and no plant whatever is|

more magnificent in a conservatory.
It must be observed, that all the va-
rieties of C. juponica cannot bear
too much heat, and they prefer the
shade to broad sunshine; also that
when they are planted against a
wall, it is better with a southeast
aspect than full south. C. Sasdn-
qua, and iis beautiful variety, C. S.
malificra, are the most tender. C.
reticulata is quite a different spe-
cies from C. japonica; and it is
certainly a-noble plant, from the
large size and brilliant colour of the
flowers. It was first thought ten-
der, but it is now found to be quite
as hardy as C. japonica, only re-
quirmg a slight protection during
winter. [The Camellia cannot be
safely trusted in the open air during
winter in any part of this country
north of Charleston, 8. C.—Eb.]
‘NULA.— Campanuldce@. —

Keeautir ul herbaceous plants, natives

ha

of Europe and Asia; the greater
part of which are perennials, and
are hardy in British gardens. There
are also some handsome hardy bien-
nials and annuals, and one or two
greenhouse species. Many of the
hardy perennials are dwarf plants,
which produce a profusion of flow-
ers, more conspicuous than the

The French nurserymen have |

C. pyramiddlis, the pyramidal Bell-
flower; C. Trachélium, the Throat-
wort, &c. C. pyramiddlis is one
of those plants that by repeated
repotting can be brought to an ex-
traordinary size, either as a nar-
row cone covered with deep blue
flowers from the base to the sum-
mit, or trained against a frame in
the fan manner. By either mode
it makes a very splendid object ;
and all the art required to produce
it, consists in employing rich soil,
and in shifting the plant for two
years into pots always a little
larger and larger, so as to prevent
it from coming into flower till it
has acquired extraordinary vigour.
Some of the prettiest little species
for pots, or rockwork, are C. ceni-
sia, and C. unifléra, which dazno
exceed three inches in height, and
are covered during June or July
with blue flowers; C. carpdthica
C. rotundifolia, C. gargdnica, ane
upwards of fifty others, which do
not exceed six inches in height. Adl
these are very valuable for forming
beds in a geometric or regularly-
shaped flower-garden, from their
dwarf and compact habit of growth,
and from the great profusion of
their Jeaves and brilliant-looking
flowers. C. médium, the Canter-
bury Bell, is one of the most orna-
mental of biennials; and C. Spécu-
lum, Venus’s Looking-glass, is a
well-known and pretty annual.
This last species has been, how-
ever, twice removed from the ge-
nus Campanula; having been cal.
led Prismatocarpus Speculum, by
L’Héritier, and Speculdria, Spécu-
lum, by De Candolle. The new
Venus’s Looking-glass of the nur-

CAPE BULBS.

series, Campanula Lorei, has, how-
ever, been always considered to
belong to Campanu'a. All the spe-
cies grow frcely in any common
soil, and are increased by dividing
the roots, or by seeds. ‘The roots of
all the species are eatable.
Campion.—This name is given
to several flowers, with different
prefixes, such as the Rose Cam-
pion (See Ly’cunis or AGRosTE’M-
ma), and the Berry-bearing Cam-
pion.—See Sine‘ne.
CANDLEBERRY Myrtie. — See
Myrt'ca. ~
Canpyturt.—See Ipe'‘ris.
Ca'nna, L.—Cunnee, or Scita-
minee.—Splendid reed-like plants,
rom the East and West Indics,
and South America, of which two
species, C. patens and C. speciosa,
are sufficiently hardy to stand the
winter at the base of a South wall,
where they will flower freely dur-
ing summer. The commen Indian
Shot, C. indica, and almost all of
the other kinds, require a stove.
They are all grown in rich light
soil, and are readily increased by
dividing the roots, cr by seeds.
The seeds of the hardy kinds gene-
rally require to be steeped in water
before they are sown. They should
then be raised on a hotbed, and
shifted two or three times before
they are planted out.

CanTERBURY BrLis.—See Cam-
PA'NULA.
Ca'ntua, W.—See .Gr'x1a and

Tpomo’psts.

Care Butes are remarkable for
the beauty of their flowers; and as
they occupy but little space, a con-
siderable collection of them may be
grown in a very small garden, in
a great measure without the aid of
glass. ‘The situation should be ex-
posed to the south, and protected
from the north; and thie soil should
consist of sand and peat, or sand
and leaf-mould, to the depth of two
feet, thoroushlv drained.

———————————— ee eee

148

CAPE SHRUBS.

a bed, all the Cape Iridacee may
be planted, placing the bulbs not
less than six inches below the sur-
face of the ground, and protecting
the plants when they come up
with a mat; and after they die
down, covering the bed with rotten
tan, rotten leaves, or litter. No
other plants ought to be planted on
the bed during the summer, nor
any water given to it during win-
ter, lest the bulbs should be rotted.
If there is a sufficient length of
wall, with no trees planted against
it; as, for example, the front wall
of a pit or hothouse; the best
mode is to make the bed not more
than two or three feet in width; by
which means it may be easily and
effectually protected by shutters,
made to rest on the ground on one
edge, and to lean against the wall
on the other. When there is no
such wall, a very good mode of af-
fording protection during winter, is
to surround the bed with a wooden
frame, or a brick or stone wall;
and either to cover it with glazed
sashes, or oiled canvass, in frames,
or with boards, or mats; taking
care always to uncover the bed in
fine weather.

Care JasMINE.—See GarpeE'NIA.

Care Puitiy’reEa—Cassine ca-
pénsis, .—A low, half-hardy shrub,
allied to the Holly.

Care Survuss in their native
country grow chiefly in very sandy
soil, mixed with vegetable mould,
formed by the decay of the same
shrubs which it nourishes. The
best imitation of such a soil in Bri-
tish gardens is sandy loam, which
ought to be well drained, by putting
crocks or potsherds in the bottom
of the pots, to the depth of an inch
or two; and afterwards covering
them with turfy peat, to prevent the
soil from being washed through the
crocks. In the management of
Cape Shrubs, the great art is to

Tn sanch | keep them always in the same state

CAPPARIS.

“149

CAPRIFOLIUM.

with regard to moisture ; that is,
never very wet, and yet never so
dry as to cause the plants to droop
their leaves. If ever they are al-
lowed to droop their leaves for three
or four hours, death is almost the |
certain consequence; and this is.
the reason why so many Cape
Heaths are killed by those who will |
not take the trouble to water them |
regularly: To lessen the risk of |
destruction by drought, such culti-

vators have an outer and an inner |
pot; the object of the former being |

to lessen the evaporation from the
latter. Others mix lumps of free-

stone with the soil in the pots; and |

these being powerful absorbers of
moisture, retain, as it were, a re-
serve of water for the plant to have
recourse to when it is neglected by
the gardener. It may be useful to
observe, that when peat, or a mix-
ture of sand and peat, in a pot
where the soil has become matted |
with roots, is once thoroughly dried,
it is extremely difficult to moisten
it again properly ; and hence, many
persons, who pour water on the sur-
face of pots containing plants in
sandy peat, imagine that it pene-
trates the ball of earth, and reaches
all the -roots, while, in fact, it very
frequently escapes between the ball
and the pot, moistening only the
outer surface of the ball, and leav-
ing the great mass of roots in its
centre quite dry. Perhaps as many
Cape Heaths and shrubs, and Aus-
tralian shrubs, are killed in this
way, as Geraniums and bulbs are
killed by over-watering. — See
Erica.

Ca’praris. — Capparidee. — A
genus of rambling shrubs, natives
of both the East and West Indies,
and of South America. One spe-
cies, C. spindsa, the common Ca-
per, grows wild in the south of
Europe, and forms in England a
greenhouse trailer, as well as a
most suitable plant for a conserya-

13*

tive wall, remarkable in both situa.
tions for the beauty of its flowers.
It grows in common soil, and is
readily propagated by cuttings ot
the roots. A plant grew for many
years in the garden of Camden
House, Kensington.

Capriro'Lium.—Caprifolidcee. a ax

The Honeysuckle. Well-known /
climbing plants, remarkable for the
delightful fragrance of their flowers.
& itélicum, the Italian Honey-
suckle; C. Pericly'menum, the
common Woodbine, and its vari-
eties; and C. sempervirens, the
|Trumpet Honeysuckle, are those
most common in collections. The
beautiful and very fragrant plant
'generally called Loniccra flexuosa,
Bot. Reg., is sometimes found un-
der the name of Caprifolium chi-
nénse; and the gold and silver
Honeysuckle is generally called C,
japonicum. Both these plants are
natives of Japan and China, and
| they are rather tender in British
|gardens. They should be grown
in a soil composed of sand, peat,
and loam, and are propagated by
cuttings. The Trumpet Honey-
suckle, and C. flivum, Bot. Mag.,
should also be grown in sandy peat,
and require a slight protection in
severe weather; but all the other
kinds may be grown in common
soil, without any further care than
training them against a wall, or
over paling. [All the hardy honey-
suckles grow with great vigour, and
with the least possible care, in this
climate. Among the most valua-
ble, are the monthly fragrant, the
red and the yellow trumpet, and the
Chinese twining, Z. flecudsa. The
latter, in addition to the beauty and
fragrance of its blossoms, which
are produced several times during

x

the summer and autumn, is also ~

highly desirable for the rich, dark
| hue of its nearly evergreen foliage,
| and the circumstance of its not be-
ing liable to the attacks of insects,

5 i

CARDAMINE.

which destroy the beauty of some
of the other species —Eb.}
Ca'psicum. — Solandcee. — The

pods of the plants belonging to this |

genus produce the Cayenne pepper;
and they are very ornamental from
their brilliant colour, which is a
bright scarlet, and their remaining on
all the winter. ‘They are generally
tender annuals, requiring the heat
of a stove to ripen their fruit ; but
there is one species, C. cerasiforme,
sometimes called Cherry Pepper, or
Bell Pepper, which dees not require
any greater heat than that of a
greenhouse.
Caraca\na.—Leguminose.—The
principal species contained in the
genus Caragana are low trees and
Jarge shrubs, with abruptly pinnate
leaves, and pea-flowers, which are
generally yellow. ‘They are mostly
natives of Siberia, and flower early
in spring ; their light elegant foliage
often appearing as early as March.
All the species are very ornamental ;
but the tree kinds are more so than
the others. C. jubdta, which differs
from the rest in having white flow-
ers tinged with red, is a low shrub,
not above eighteen inches high,
presenting a curious shagey appear-
ance from the footstalks of the
leaves remaining on, and becoming
hard and thorny, after the ieaflets
have dropped off. C. Chaimldgu,

the Chinese Caragana, which is|

naturally a low shrub, forms a very
graceful pendulous tree, when graft-
ed on a stock of C. arboréscens ten
or twelve feet high. All the Cara-
ganas were formerly considered to
belong to the genus Robinia. They
are all quite hardy, and will grow
in any common garden soil; most
of the species prefer.a poor gravel,
but C. arboréscens thrives best in
the neighbourhood of water. The
species are propagated by layers or
cuttings, or by seeds, which they
ripen in abundance.

Carpa’mine.— Crucifere.—— Low

150

CARTHAMUS.

herbaceous plants, natives of Eu-
/rope, and of which C. praténsis
_pléna, the Cuckoo Flower, or La-
dy’s Smock, and one or two other
species, deserve a place in the
flower-garden. C. trifolia is valu-
able for its early flowering, and,
with several other species, is well
adapted for pots or rockwork. Com-
| mon soil, kept moist.

CARDINAL-FLOWER.— The Scar-
let Lobelia—See Lose‘iia.

Ca’rpuvus.— Composite.— The
Thistle—Some of the species are
very ornamental; though they are
many of them tall robust-growing
plants, which require a great deal
of room, and are too large for a
small garden. ;

Ca\rex. —— Cyperacee. ——- The
Sedges are well-known British and
American plants, of which only
one species, C. Fraseridna, Ait., a
native of America, deserves a place
in the flower garden. It grows
about half a foot in height, has
broader leaves than the common
Sedges, and produces its large white
flowers, which look lke little lilies,
from April to June. It requires a
moist loamy soil, or to be grown in
a pot, and kept in 2 pan of water.

Carnation.—See Dra'ntuus.

Caron Tree.—See CERATOo'NIA.

Carou'NgEA. — Bromeliécee, —
Splendid tropical low trees, one of
which, C. insignis, occasionally
flowers in British stoves. It re
quires a rich loamy soil, and plenty
of space ; and it may be propaga-
ted by cuttings with the leaves on,
in sand under a glass, and plunged
in heat.

Ca'rtHamus. —— Compésite. —
Hardy annuals. C. tinetorius, the
Bastard Saffron, is an old inhabit-
ant of British gardens, and it only
requires sowing in the open air in
March or April. From the dried
flowers of this plant is made what
is called vegetable rouge. C. la-
natus, L., the Distaff Thistle, is

CATERPILLARS.

151

CATTLEYA.

now called Kentrophy'llum land- | structive to vegetation. Many gar-

tum by De Candolle.

Ca'ssia. — Leguminise. — The |
Senna tree. Only a few of the)
species are from temperate cli- |
mates; and among these, C. corym-
bosa, Lam., is a very showy green-
house shrub, with yellow flowers ;
and C. marilandica, from Mary- |
land, is a perennial herbaceous |
plant of easy culture in the open |
garden. All the ligneous species |
are readily propagated by cuttings, |
and the others by seeds or division |
of the roots.

Castitie‘sa.— Scrophularine.— |
The American Painted Cup, C.
coccinea, Sprengel, Bartsia, L.,
Euchréma, Nut., is a hardy annual,
‘with yellow flowers and scarlet |
bracts, which ouly requires sow-
ing in March or April in the open
ground.

Cata'Lra. — Bignonidcee.—De-
ciduous trees, one of which, C.
springefolia, Bot. Mag., is quite
hardy in British shrubberies, in
which it richly deserves a place on
account of its fine leaves and splen-
did flowers. It will grow in any
common soil that is tolerably dry ;
but if it has too much moisture, the
shoots, which are naturally soft,
with a large pith, will never be
thoroughly ripened. For the same
reason, the situation ought te be
airy. It is propagated by seeds, or
cuttings of the roots.

Carana'NCHE. — Composite. —
Herbaceous plants, natives of the
South of Europe. C. cerilea is a
perennial ; C. bicolor is a biennial ;
and C. litea, an annual. All the
species have pretty flowers, but
are rather awkward-looking plants,
from their long and very slender
flower-stalks. They are of easy
culture, but grow best in poor grav-
elly soil.

CatcuFriy.—See Sixe'ne.

CarerriLLars.——-The larve of
moths and butterflies, and very de-

deners keep their gardens clear by
destroying the female butterflies
and moths before they have laid
their eggs (see Burrerriy and
Morn); and others by carefully
searching for the eggs early in
spring, when the trees are without
leaves. When these preventive
measures have been neglected, the
only effectual way to prevent the
ravages of caterpillars is to pick
them off the trees separately. ‘The
visits of caterpillars are very uncer-
tain, and some seasons they are
much more abundant than in others.
Sometimes the caterpillars of the
Magpie Moth will entirely strip the
gooseberry bushes of their leaves,
and the fruit will, in consequence,
become tough and insipid; and in
other seasons, the caterpillars of the
Lackey Moth, the Hawthorn But-
terfly, and the Ermine Moth, will
strip the Hawthorn and other shrubs.
In all these cases hand-picking
should be reserted to as soon as the
insects are perceived. Many per-
sons recornmend fumigating with
tobacco smoke, or by burning wet
straw under the tree; and others,
washing with tobacco or lime wa-
ter; but most of these remedies are
worse than the disease.
Carmint.—See Nepe'ta.
Catrie'ya. — Orchiddcee.—Or-
chideous plants, with large and
splendid flowers, natives of South
America. They may be grown
elther in pots, in peat mixed with
lime rubbish ; or on pieces of wood
or eccoa husks hung up in a hot-
house, the roots being wrapped in
wet moss. All the species of Cat-
tleya are easily propagated by di-
viding their roots; and they are
particularly valuable, as they will
thrive in a common hothouse if
well supplied with water, without

requiring the excessive heat and

moisture generally necessary for the
repical Orchidee. “

-

CEANOTHUS. 152 CENTAUREA.
Creano'tuus. — Rhamndacee. — Cepar or Goa.—Cupréssus lu-
Red root. American hardy and| sitanica, Tou.; C. glauca, Lam.

half-hardy shrubs, with large spikes
of very small flowers. ‘The most
ornamental species of the genus is
C. aztureus, which is only half-
hardy in the climate of London,
requiring protection from severe
frosts. Ceandthus pallidus is much

harder than C. azireus, and strong- |

ly resembles that species; but its
leaves are not hoary beneath, and
its flowers, Dr. Lindley tells us in
the Bot. Reg., “ are smaller, as well
as much paler.” He adds, that it
is often confused with C. ovatus,
which “is a mere variety of C.
americana,” and C. thyrsifolius,
which “is 2 Californian tree, with |
deep blue fiowers, and very strongly
angular branches.” C. americanus
is the least ornamental of all the
kinds ;
plant, not above two feet high, with
a profusion of white flowers. ‘The
last two are quite hardy, but the |
other kinds should be trained against |
a south wall, and protected from
severe frosts by a thatched coping.
They should all be grown in a com-
post consisting of three-fourths of
heath mould, or a mixture of sand
and peat, with one of loam, and
the soil should be well drained.
The best way to effect this, as the
plants are generally grown in the

open air, is to dig a pit for each, |

about two feet deep, and a foot and

a half or two feet in diameter, and |

to fill about a third of it with broken
brickbats, pieces of freestone, and
pebbles. The compost should be

put on this, and raised a few inches |

above the level of the general sur-
face of the garden to allow for sink-
ing.
drainage, and thus prevent the roots
from being injured by wet;

wil provide a reservoir of moisture
which will eqpally’ serve to prevent |
the roots from ever becoming too dry.

and C. collinus is a dwarf |

This plan will not only ensure |

but the |
broken bricks and pieces of stone |

—-A very ornamental half-hardy
tree, which in a sheltered situation
hes a beautiful effect on a lawn, from
its drooping branches and glaucous
foliage. It requires a light soil, and
to be occasionally watered, as its
roots are very apt to wither if suf-
fered to become too dry.

Ce.anpine.—- There are two plants
bearing this name : the common (see
CueExipo'nium), and the lesser (see
Fica‘ria).

Cexo'sta.—- Amaranthacee.--Ten-
der annuals, with showy flowers.
The common Cockscomb, C. crista-
| ta, may be grown to a very large size

by raising the plants on a hotbed,
and frequently shifting them into
longer and larger pots, as directec
| for the Balsam (see Barsamr'nia).
Ceua'srrus, L.—Celastrinee.—
The Staff tree. Half-hardy shrubs,
|mostly natives of the Cape, with
white flowers. For culture, see
| CLEANO’THUS.
| Ce'tsta.— Solandcee, or Verbas-
cin@.—Half-hardy annuals and bien-
nials, with showy yellow flowers,
and nearly allied to the genus Ver-
bascum.—T hey are generally raised
on a hotbed, and the biennials are
kept in the greenhouse during winter,
as they are killed by a slight frost.
|C. linearis, and C. urticefolia,
which have scarlet flowers, are now
included in the genus Alonsoa.—
See ALonso\s.
| _Centau'rea.—Composite.—The
common perennial species are known
by the English name of Knapweed ;
and the only quite hardy-annual
one, C. Cyanus, by the name of
| Corn Bluebottle. The most beauti-
ful species, C. Crocady/lium, L., is
a has-hardy annual, which should
be raised on a hot-bed, and planted
out in May. OC. benedicta, L.,
*Cnicus benedictus, Dec., the Blessed

}
;

X

Thistle, is a hardy annual, which .

may be sown in March or April, and

CERATONIA.

153

bd

—

CEREUS.

will flower all the summer; and C.| The pod is fleshy, like that of the

suaveolens, and C. moschaia, L., the
yellow and purple Sweet Siemens
have been formed into the genus |
Amberboa by Professor De Can-
dolle.

Cz/rasus.— Rosdcee—The Cher-
ry. Hardy trees and shrubs, for the
most part deciduous, and all more |
or less ornamental on account of |
their flowers. ‘The common double |
Cherry, and the French double!
Cherry, deserve a place in every
garden ; and equally so do the Chi. |
nese Cherry, C. Pseudocérasus ;
the Ali-Saints’ Cherry, C. semper-
florens; the Bird Cherry, C. Pi-
dus; the Virginian Bird Cherry, C.
virginiana ; the Mahaleb Plum or
Cherry, C. Mahaleb ; and the Japan

erry, C. japonica, known in the
‘nurseries as the double dwarf Al-
mond. Many of the plants here
enumerated are known at some of
the nurseries by the name of Prunus;
as P. Mahaieb, P. Padus, &c.; but
in others they are called Cerasus.
It is necessary to know this to avoid
buying the same plant under differ-
ent names. All the species grow in
common soil, and are propagated
by grafting or seeds. The common
Laurel, Cérasus Laurocérasus, and
the Portugal Laurel, Cérasus lusi-
tanica, which also belong to this
genus, have showy spikes of flowers,
and deserve culture on that account,
independently of their shining ever- |
green leaves. [The common and,
Portugal Laurels here alluded to are |
beautiful evergreens, (differing en-_
tirely from our common laurel, or |
Kalmia), and with the Hollies, &c., |
are the pride and glory of the Eng-
lish gardens and shrubberies in an- |
tumn and winter. Unfortunately, |
our winters in the middle and north- |
ern States are too severe for them |
to thrive without protection.—Ep.] |

Crrato\nia.— Leguminose.—An
evergreen greenhouse shrub, a native
* the south of Europe and Asia.

Tamarind, and it is said to have
been the food St. John fed on in the
wilderness, the seeds being called
** locusts,” and the pulp “ wild
honey.” Hence the popular name
of St. John’s Bread. It is also
called the Carob tree. The tree is
of very slow growth, and the flowers
have no beauty; but the plant is
worth cultivation for its dark green
leathery leaves. It should be grown
in a mixture of equal parts of loam
and peat, well drained, and frequently
watered ; and it is propagated by
cuttings of the old wood stuck in
sand.

Ce’rcis. — Leguminise. — The »

Judas tree.—Few trees are more
ornamental in a shrubbery than the
two species of this genus ; but
Ceércis Siliquastrum, the common
kind, is decidedly the handsomest.
‘The leaves are curiously shaped, and
the flowers, which are of a beautiful
pink, grow out of the bark of the
stem and branches, and not, lke
those of other plants, among the
leaves. These flowers have an
agreeably acid taste, and when fried
in batter make excellent fritters.
The common Judas tree is a native
of the Levant, and it is frequently
grown against a wall, producing its
flowers in April; but the American
kind, C. canadénsis, is quite hardy.
They both produce abundance of
seeds, and grow best in a deep sandy
loam, rather rich than poor.

Ce‘reus.—Cactdceew.—The Torch

Thistle. One of the genera into
which the Linnean genus Cactus
is now divided. This genus was
first formed by Mr. Haworth, who
made it consist only of all the Cacti
that had long angular or round
stems ; but modern botanists in-
clude in it those of the short round-
stemmed porcupine Cacti, that have
long tube-shaped flowers. Of the
true kinds of Cereus, which are
still generally the only ones known

ta.

we

“x
7

*

CESTRUM.

by that name in most private col- |
best |

lections and nurseries, the
known are C. speciosissimus, the
crimson-flowered Torch Thistle, and
its hybrids and varieties, the stems
of which are erect and angular,
and the flowers dark crimson; C.
flagelliformis, the Creeping Cereus,
the long round stems of which hang
down like cords, and the flowers of
which are pink ; and C. grandiflo-
rus, the Night-blowing Cereus, the
flowers of which are white and
yellow. The Old Man’s head, or
Monkey Cactus, Céreus senilis, is
also becoming tolerably well known.
All the kinds of Cereus only require
greenhouse heat ; they should all be
grown in loam mixed with pounded
brick and lime-rubbish, in pots well
drained with cinders; and they all
require abundance of air and light.
It is best to give them a season of
rest when they have done flowering ;
and this is done by removing them
to a colder house, and withholding
water. If, however, they are con-
tinued in the same house in which
they were flowered, the supply of
water should be only lessened, and
not stopped entirely. In other re-

’ spects their culture resembles that

of the other Cacti (see Ca’crus).
CrerintTHE.—Boraginee. — Hon-
eywort.——Hardy annuals, more cu-
rious than beautiful, that will grow
in any soil or situation ; and which,
if sown in spring or summer, will
generally come into flower in about
six weeks from the time of sowing ;
and if sown in autumn, will stand
through the winter.
[Ce'strum.—Solandcee.— Green-

house shrubs, natives of the East

Indies and South America. C.
nocturnum, frequently called the
night-smelling Jasmine, is a much
esteemed species which blooms
abundantly all summer, if planted
in the open air in May, and fills the
whole garden with its fragrance at
night, though perfectly imodorous

154

|

CHEIRANTHUS.

during the day. It should be taker
up in autumn, and if kept in a boy
or pot, rather dry, may be easily
preserved in a warm cellar untii
spring.— Eb. ]

CuaLk.—Carbonate of lime (see
EartTus).

Cuamasu'xus.—A kind of Poly-
gala.

CuamMamo‘Ly.—A species of Al-
lium.

CuarcoaL.—Powdered charcoal,
sifted so as to have the particles not
larger than those of #and, has been
used in Germany for striking cut-
tings in; and it is found superior to
sand, as it supplies them with nour-
ishment after they are rooted.

Cuarpi'nta.—The new name for
Xeranthemum orientale.

Cuariwoo' pia. — Asphodélee.
Stately plants, nearly related
Dracena, the Dragon tree, grow-
ing well in a mixture of lght loam
and sandy peat, and requiring a cool
part of the stove, or a very warm
greenhouse. C. congésta has pale
blue flowers, and is readily increased
by cuttings planted under a hand-
glass, without shortening the leaves.

CuasteE Tree— Viiex A'gnus
Castus.—A low shrub of no beauty,
which will grow in any common
soil.

Cueira Ntuus.—Crucifere.—-The
Wall-flower. Well-known _herba-
ceous plants, which are much prized
for the delightful odour of their
flowers, which are produced from
April to July. C. Cheiri, the com-
mon Wall-flower, and its varieties,
both double and single, are in gene-
ral cultivation, growing in any com-
mon soil; and the varieties are
readily increased by cuttings. The
best varieties are the double-blood,
the double-striped, the double-yel-
low or Polish, and the double-
purple, all of which may be ob-
tained from the nurserymen. There
is also a kind, with very dark flow-
ers and striped leaves, grown by

CHERMES.

155

*

CHIONANTHUS.

Norman of Brighton; and a single , withering of its branches. They

pale-purple, called the French Wall-
flower, grown by Hopgood of Bays-
water, and other nurserymen. C.
alpinus is a pretty hardy little plant,
with yellow flowers, well suited for
growing in pots, or on rockwork.
C. mutabilis is a curious species
from Madeira, requiring the green-
house, and flowering from Decem-
ber to May.

Cue.ipo\nium.— Papaverdcee. —
The common Celandine, or C. md-
jus, Swallow-wort, is a hardy peren-
nial, with yellow flowers, common

on the seacoast, and in churchyards, |

in many parts of England. It grows.
in any common soil, and is readily |

increased by division of the roots,
or by seeds, which it produces in
undance.

_Cuexo'ne. — Scrophularinee. — |
Handsome herbaceous plants, na- |

tives of North America, most of

frequently attack the Py‘rus, or
Cydonia japonica, and the snowy
Mespilus, which they destroy ty

sucking the sap out of the branches.

The best way of getting rid of
them is to wash and brush the
branches with soft soap and water
in winter and spring.—See A‘puis.

Cuerry.—See Ce’rasus.

Cuerry-Bay and Cuerry-Lav-
REL.—Old English names for the
common Laurel.

Cuimona'ntuus. — Calycanthee.
—C. fragrans, the Winter-flower
(Calycanthus pre‘cor), and its va-
rieties, are well deserving a place
against a conservative wall, or in
the conservatory ; for though hardy
enough to stand our winters in the
open air, yet from their very fra-
grant flowers being produced in
December, January, and February,

'they are very liable to be injured

which are, however, now included |

in the genus Pentstemon.

The four |

still called Chelone, are C. glabra, |

C. obliqua, C. Ly‘oni (C. major,
Bot. Mag.), and C. nemorésa.
the species grow freely in light rich
soil, and are readily increased by
cuttings, suckers, or seeds, which

All |

in favorable seasons are produced |

in abundance.

Cuermes, or Kermes.—A scale-
like insect that raises a kind of gall-
apple on a species of Oak (Quéreus
coccifera), and which produces a
brilliant scarlet dye. The true

Chermes is a kind of Coccus; but |

the name was applied by Linneus
to a genus of leaping insects known
by the popular name of false Aphides,
because the larve resemble those
insects; though, in their perfect
s'ate, they have red bodies, and
long snow-white wings.
sects, which are now called Psylla,
are generally found on plants of the
genus Pyrus; and they may be
known to have attacked a tree by
the curling up of its leayes, and

These in- | low.

by the frost. They thrive in almost
any soil, but prefer a mixture of
loam and peat They are readily
increased by layers, and cuttings
of the young wood, which, planted
in sand under a bell-glass, strike
freely. The large-flowered variety
has darker and handsomer flowers,
but they are less fragrant.

€ una Aster.—See Catuiste'-
PHUS.

Curna Rose.—See Ro'sa.

Cuina Tree.--TheOriental Plane.

Curinquarin.—Dwarf Chestnut.

Cutona'ntTHus.—Oleine.—C. vi-
rignica, the Fringe Tree, is a large
shrub, well deserving a place in all
peat-borders, both for the beauty of
its white fringe-like flowers, and
for its leaves, which are often as
large as those of Magnolia grandi-
flora, and die off of a fine rich yel-
It is readily increased by
layers or seeds, and it may also be
grafted or budded standard high on
the common Ash, when it will form
a fine object for a lawn, or for the
centre of a flower-bed.

~,

*

CHRYSANTHEMUM.

Cutro'nia.—Gentidnew —Green- |
house plants of short duration, aud
consequently requiring to be fre- |
quently raised fiom cuttings, which
strike freely in peat under a hand.)
glass. C. frutéscens, with rose-
coloured flowers, and its variety,
with white flowers, are the most |
desirable species, and may be easily
procured from the nurseries. ‘They |
are also frequently raised from Cape |
seeds, the plants being allindigenous |
at the Cape of Good Hope.

Cuoro’zema. — Leguminose. — |
Beautiful New Holland shrubs,
thriving well in an equal mixture |
of loam, sand, and peat. They are |
readily increased by cuttings ia |
sand under a bell-glass, or by seeds,
which are frequently ripened in |
abundance. All the species are |
worth cultivating ; and they are in-
teresting, not only for their beauty, |
but on account of the story told as |
the origin of their name. It is said |
that Labillardiére had been wan- |
dering in New South Wales for |
several days, in great distress for
water, all the springs he found be- |
ing too brackish to drink ; when, at
last, he and his companions found
a fresh-water spring, near which |
grew some of these plants, which
Labillardigre named Chordzema,
from two Greek words, signifying |
to dance with joy from drinking.

Curistmas Rosze.—See Heir’ |
BORUS.
Curist’s Tuorn.—See Pa.i'urus. |
Curysa/ntuEmumM. — Composite.
—The Chinese Chrysanthemum,
and its varieties, are well known,
and have, for many years, attracted
the attention of the cultivator, on
account of the great variety of their
showy flowers, which are produced |
from October to December. They |

156

CHRYSOCOMA.

of those plants that derive great
advantage from frequent shifting.
When this is neglected, the stalks
are apt to become long and weak,
with few or no branches; and as
the flowers are always terminal, they
are consequently few also. Taking
off the points of the shoots will make

| the plants bushy, but it will have a

tendency to prevent their flowering ;
but repeatedly changing the pots
always into one only a little larger,
will not only make the plants bushy,
but induce them to flower abun-
dantly. When this mode of culture
has been neglected, the Chrysanthe-
mums should be planted against a
wall, or pegged down over a bed in
the flower-yarden ; and by slighily
protecting them during frosty nights,
they will frequently continus
fiower till January or February.
varieties are continually changing,
new ones being raised every year ;
but nearly all the kinds may be
classed in one or other of the following
seven divisions,—the Ranunculus-
flowered, the Incurved, the China
Aster-flowered, the Marigold-flow-

ered, the Clustered, the Tasseled,

and the Quilled. The botanical
name of the species was formerly
Chrysinthemum sinénse, but it is
now removed to the genus Pyreth-
rum. The best annual Chrysanthe-

_mums are C. tricolor. L., (C. carina-

and purple flowers, and C. corond-
rium, L., with yellow flowers, both
of which are quite hardy, and well
worth a place in the flower-garden.
Seeds may be procured from all the

tum, Schou.,) with white, yellow, |

seedsmen.

Curyso'coma. — Compdsite. —
Goldy-Locks. Low soft-wooded
shrubs from the Cape, with yellow
flowers. They thrive well in a

grow freely in any light rich soil, | mixture of loam and peat, and are
and are readily increased by suckers, | readily increased by cuttings. The
division of the roots, layers, and | herbaceous plants which were for-
cuttings, which flower the same year | merly included in this genus are now
they are struck; and they are some | removed to the genera Linésyris,

CHYMOCARPUS.

Euthamia, and Bigelovia. These |
are all natives of North America, |
and all hardy perennials, which will
grow in any common soil, and are
speedily propagated by division of |
the roots.
Curyse1s.—Another
Escuscuo’Lrzia.
Curysosrie'nium. — Sazifragee.
—Golden Saxifrage.
plants, with yellow flowers, natives
of Britain, North America, and

name for

Nepal, not growing more than 4 or

5 inches high. ‘They are rather
difficult +o cultivate, but succeed
best in a moist shady situation, near
a rivulet, or at the foot of rockwork,
or in a grotto. ‘They should be
grown in a mixture cf loam and
peat, and are propagated by division
f the roots.

~ Cuymoca’reus.— Tropeolee.—C.

pentaphy'llus is Prof. Don’s name
for Trope‘olum pentaphy'llum. 'The
general appearance of the plant re-
sembles that of Trope\olum trica/d-
rum; bat when examined closely,
the flowers will be found to differ in

their construction, and in the num-.

ber of the little inner petals, which
are five in Tropzeolum, and only two
in Chymocarpus. ‘The roct of the
first also somewhat resembles a po-
tato, and that of the last a carrot.

Chymocarpus pentaphy'llus is a)

beautiful climbing plant from Buenos
Ayres, growing freely in sandy peat
and loam, in the open air, if planted
against a south wall; but generally
kept in a greenhouse. It grows very |
rapidly, and produces a profusion of
red and green flowers during the |
whole summer, which, should the
autumn be favourable, are succeeded
by a number of black juicy berries,
which, in flavour and appearance,
are not unlike the Zante grape. It

‘ grows freely from seeds, if sown in

a gentle heat immediately they are

ripe, and may be increased by cut-

tings, or division of the roots. When

it is grown in a pot, care must be
i4

Herbaceous |

aetna eth,

CINERARIA.

taken not to over-water it, when
the stems have died down in the
autumn. When trained over a wire
frame, it makes a splendid show
when in flower, or fruit.
Cincno'na.—Peruvian Bark.
Cinera ‘ria. — Composite. —The
| Cape Aster. The half-shrubby
| plants belonging to this genus are
all of easy culture, and hybridize
freely with each other; and when
it is added that they produce a great
abundance of showy flowers, it will
not appear surprising that they are
in general cultivation. ‘They are
nearly hardy, but are always grown
/in pots, as they flower so early in
the season, that in the open ground
their fower-buds would be liable to
be nipped by frost. They are grown
in light rich soil, and only require
ordinary attention in watering. They
are propagated by dividing the roots
in August, by cuttings struck in
autumn, er by seeds, which they
ripen ii abundance... The. seed
should be sown in May, on a slight

hotbed, and the young plants pricked -

out into small pots, and shifted fre-
quently during the summer. If they
are wanted to flower in December,
| th ey should be kept in the green-
| house all the year, and they will be-
gin to throw up their flower-stalks
in October; but if they are not
wanted to flower before April, the
usual time of their flowering, they
may stand in the open air, and need
not be shifted above three or four
times during the summer ; and in
October they may be put into a cold
pit, where they may remain, just
protected from the frost till March,
when they will begin to send up
their flower-stalks. Nearly all the
beautiful purple-flowered kinds are
varieties of hybrids of C. cruénta, a
native of the Canaries. The finest
hybrids are C. Waterhousiana, C.
Hendersonii, and the kind called
the King.

The herbaceous species of Cine-

CITRUS.

158

CLARKIA.

}
raria have nearly all yellow fiowers,

and many of them are natives of
Europe. They should be grown
in rather light soil, and they are
propagated by division of the root.
C. aurea, with golden yellow flowers,

a native of Siberia, is one of the |

handsomest species. Professor De
Candolle, in his late arrangement of
the Composite, has removed all

the purple-flowered species formerly |

included in the genus Cineraria, to
Senecio.

Circz’s. — Onagricee. — En-
chanter’s Nightshade. A _ pretty

little British plant, growing in any |

soil and situation.
Ci'stus.—Cistinee. —The Rock
Rose. Beautiful hardy and half-
hardy shrubs, which grow freely in
a mixture of loam and peat, and are

readily increased by cuttings planted |
under a hand-glass, layers, or seeds, |

which are ripened in abundance.
Most of the species are of low
growth, and are generally used for
rockwork ; but some are tall hand-
some shrubs, such as the Gum Cistus
(C. cy'prius and C. ladaniferus),
and the purple-flowered Cistus (C.
purptreus). The dwarf kinds being
generally rather tender, will require
a slight protection during severe
winters, when they are planted out
on rockwork.

Ci'trus, L.— Aurantidcea.—The
genus Citrus inciudes Oranges, Le-

mons, Limes, Citrons, Shaddocks, |

&c., all well deserving cultivation,
both for their flowers and their fruit,

but of which only a few kinds of

Oranges and Lemons are generally
grown. ‘They all thrive well ina
mixture of rich loam with a little
rotten dung ; but great care is ne-
cessary not to overpot them, or give
them too much water when not in
a growing state. On the Continent,
they are indeed frequently kept
during winter in a cellar, almost
without either light or water, and
brought into the open air during

summer. ‘The different species and
varieties are generally propagated
by budding, grafting, and inarching
‘on the. common Lemon, which
| grows readily from seed. The best
time to do this is in February and
_March, when the grafts, &c., will
take well, and in a very short time;
_andif grafted on good strong stalks,
they will make handsome plants by
the autumn. As soon as the graft-
ing or budding has been performed,
| the plants should be set in a close
frame on a moderate hotbed ; but
not plunged into it, as, from the ten-
derness of their roots, that might
injure them. Oranges are also fre-
quently raised from seeds; but un-
less they are budded and grafted
when about two years old, it will
be many years before they flow
Orange-trees may also be propaga-
ted by cuttings, which are best of
the old wood, struck in sand in a
gentle bottom heat, and shaded.
Plants raised in this manner flower
and fruit much sooner than any
others, but they scarcely ever attain
a large size. [Both the Orange and
Lemon are such favorites in this
country, that scarcely a cottage,
where a flower-pot or tub can be
put in requisition, is without one or
the other of these plants. From
being placed in unsuitable soil and
without proper drainage at the bot-
tom of the pots, they however sel-
dom remain long in a good state of
health. When they become sickly
and yellow, they should be turned
out of the pots, a large portion ot
the old soil should be detached from
the roots, and they should be repot-
ted in a mixture of fine loamy soil
and rotten manure, with about one-
fourth of charcoal dust, or powdered
charcoal.—Eb. |
Cra/rK1A.—Onagrdcee.—Beauti-
ful hardy annuals, with rose-colour-
ed, white, and purple flowers, na-
tives of California, requirmg the
same treatment as the other Cali-

CLEOME.

159

CLIANTHUS.

!
fornian annuals. They may, how- |

ever, be sown in spring; and as, |
when this is the case, they are apt |
to become drawn up, the general |
appearance of the bed is much im- |
proved by sowing Mignionette with |
the Clarkia seeds in March or|
April.

Crary.—A kind of Satyvia.

Cray.—See Earrus.

Crayro'nra.—Portuldcee.—Har- |
dy herbaceous plants, some annual |
and some perennial, with pretty |
pink and white flowers, but having |
rather a weedy appearance. ‘They |
grow best in a peat border, and are |

ple flowers, of easy culture in any
light rich soil.

CLEeRopDE'NpruM. — Verbendcee,
—Very ornamental stove shrubs,
chiefly natives of the ‘Tropics.
They all grow freely in a light rich
soil, composed of two parts of loam,
one of rotten dung, and one of peat.
They require frequent shifting from
small pots to larger ones, to make
them flower freely. They strike
readily from cuttings of the young
wood planted under a hand-glass ;
or cuttings of the roots planted in a
pot, with their tops just above the
surface of the mould, and plunged

increased by seeds, which some-, in a hotbed, will root readily. The

times ripen in abundance.
Cie’matis. — Ranunculaceae. —
Half-hardy and hardy climbers ;
shrubby and _ herbaceous; with
white and purple flowers.
are all most desirable plants, of the
easiest culture in any light rich
soil; and readily propagated by
cuttings of the young wood, or seeds,
which are frequenily ripened plen-
tifully. C. florida, with white flow-
ers; MSieboldtii or bicolor, with
white and purple flowers, and C.
aztrea or cerilea, with beautiful
violet blue flowers, are among the
handsomest of conservatory climb-
ers; and under glass, they frequent-
ly come into blossom early in March.
In the open air, they do not flower
till May or June. C. aziirea is as
hardy as the common wild kinds ;
but the others are sometimes killed
to the ground by frost. C. viticélia,
and its varieties, C. flammula, C.
Hendersonii, and C.. cylindrica,
are all quite hardy, and form most
beautiful objects when trained over

They |

most desirable species are C. fra-
| grans, with pink flowers; C. panicu-
ldtum, and C. squamadtum, with
scarlet flowers, and C. macrophy'l-
lum, with white flowers. Several
of the species were formerly called
| Volkam?ria.

Cre‘rHra.— Ericee.-—Hardy and
half-hardy shrubs, with white flow-
-ers; of which C. arborea forms a
_very handsome small tree, when
planted out in the free soil in a con-
_servatory, or in a sheltered situation

in the open air, producing a great
_ profusion of spikes of white flowers
from August to October. C. alni-
| folia, and some other species, are
| qtite hardy. Ail the species thrive
_well in a mixture of leam and peat,
_and they are all readily increased
by layers, cuttings, or seeds.

Cuia'nruus.— Leguminise.— C.
puniceus, the crimson Glory Pea,
is a magnificent half-hardy shrub,
'with bright crimson flowers, a na-
tive of New Zealand. It grows
_very freely in rich loam, if its roots

lattice-work, or baskets in the flow-| are allowed sufficient room; and
er-garden ; and no garden, however it generally thrives most when
small, ought to be without one or planted against the back wall of a
more of these species. conservatory, or against a south

Cie0'me. —Capparidee.—Splen- | wall in the open air, requiring only
did stove shrubs, annuals and bien- the protection of a mat in winter.
nials, with one or two half-hardy | Cuttings planted in pots in the au-
annuals, with white, rose, and pur-|tumn, and kept in the shady part

oe

Be

CLIMATE. 160 CLIMBING PLAN "8.

of the greenhouse, will be rooted The last mode is never wanting,
by the spring, when tlicy may be | whichever of the former modes may
planted in the open border. It is be adopted. ‘The moisture of the
a plant that rarely flowers well in| atmosphere in plant-structures is
a pot ; as it requires abundance of | maintained by watering the plants ;
room for its roots, and grows rapid- | and by keeping the surface of the
ly, with rather succulent shoots, re- | ground and floor more or less moist-
quiring abundance of water during | ened with water, according to the
the growing season, and very little | height of the temperature. The
at any other time. When grown | motion of the air is effected by ven-
in the open ground, the juicy na- | tilation, and opening the doors and
ture of its roots renders it a favorite | windows of the plant-houses, so as
food for snails ; and when kept in| to create a current through them,

the conservatory or greenhouse, it ; whenever the weather will permit. -
is very apt to be attacked by the| Ciiusinc PLanrsare those plants

red spider. If these enemies be|that raise themselves from the
kept away, and the plant be grown | ground by attaching themselves to
in rich soil, composed of equai parts | whatever objects may be near them.
of loam and thoroughly rotten ma- | One class of climbers attach them-
nure, and well supplied with air, | selves by tendrils, such as the Vine,
light, and water, with abundance} and the Passion-flower; others by
of room for its roots, the rapidity of | the footstalks of leaves, as in the
its growth, and the splendour of its | Nasturtium, and some species of
flowers, will almost surpass belief;| Clematis; another class twine their
but unless these points are attended | stems round objects, such as the
to, the plant is scarcely worth grow- | Convolvulus; while seme attach
ing. themselves by small root-like bodies,

Cuimate is the grand regulator | such as the common Ivy, and tie
of vegetable culture; and the gar-| Ampeldpsis, or Virginian Creeper ;
den and landscape scenery of every | and others raise themselves by as-
country depends far more on the | cending threugh other plants, such
climate of that country than on its/as the common Nightshade in
soil. In modern times the climates | hedges, or the plant called the Duke
of all other countries are imitated | of Argyle’s Tea-tree, Ly'cium bar-
by hothouses; a practice scarcely, | barum. The twiners may be sup-
if at all, known to the ancients. In| ported by single rods; but all the
imitating a climate, it is not only | othe:s, excepting those which sup-
necessary to attend to temperature, | port themselves in the manner of
but equally so to light, and, to a the Ivy, require branched stakes,

certain extent, to the moisture of | such as the sticks put into rows of
the atmosphere, and to the motion | peas; while plants of the nature
of the air and its change. Heat is | of Ivy require a wall, a rock, or the
communicated to plant-structures | rugged trunk of atree. In general,
by the decomposition of fermenting ‘all climbing plants, when they are
substances, and by the combustion | net furnished with the means of
of fuel, operating by means of smoke | raising themselves up, extend their
or heated air in flues, or by water) shoots along the surface of the
circulated in pipes, either in a fluid | ground, when they become what
state, or in an aeriform state, as | are called trailers, or they reot into
steam; or by the heat of the sun | it like the Ivy, and become what
passing through glass, and heated | are called creepers. Climbing plants
air which is not allowed to escape. | are of singular use in gardening for

CLIPPING. 161 CLIPPING.

covering walls, ornamenting trellis- | Yew, and Box, are generally clipped
work, arcades, verandas, er orna- about midsummer; and this is also
mental props, in the form of cones, | the season for clipping Box edgings.
pyramids, parasols, &c. | Deciduous hedges, such as those

Cuvea.— Amaryllidécee.— An | of the common Thorn, may either
imperfect bulb, or leek-rooted plant, | be clipped immediately after mid-
of easy culture in the greenhouse | summer, or during winter ; us, dur-
in loamy soil; it preserves its deep | ing the latter season, the sap is in
green foliage all the year, and sends la great measure dormant, and the
up strong stems bearing red and| wounded points of the shoots are
yellow flowers from May to August. | the less liable to be injured by frosts.

Cuinto'nta.— Lobelidcee—Beau- | In general, both evergreen and de-
tiful little annuals, flowering pro- | ciduous hedges and edgings may be
fusely the whole summer. They clipped at any period after the
are natives of California, but will! growth for the season is completed :
bear heat better than the generality | but if cut or clipped before that
of annuals from that country. They | takes place, the amputated shoois

are generally raised on a hotbed
(the seeds being sown in February),
and planted out in May; but they
may be sown in the open border in
April. They require a very rich

soil, consisting of one part of sandy |

loam, two of vegetable mould, and

one of rotten manure; er, where |
vegetable mould cannot readily be |

procured, of equal parts of sandy
loam and manure; and they should
be constantly watered while they
are growing. ‘The seed-pod is be-
low the flower, and looks like its
footstalk. If the seeds are sown in

pots as soon as they are ripe, and|

kept im shelter all the winter, they
will be ready for planting out into
beds or boxes, fora veranda or bal-
cony, in March or April, and they
will be brilliantly in flower by May;
and if constantly watered, they will
continue to produce a succession

of blossoms, till the plants are de- |

stroyed by frost.
Currrine or shearing plants was
a very common practice in gardens

with all shrubs, many trees, and_

even fruit-bearing bushes, such as
the Gooseberry and Currant, from
the earliest times up to the com-
mencement, of the last century ;

but it is now chiefly confined to/|

hedges and edgings. Evergreen
hedges, such as those of Holly,
14*

are apt to make a second growth,
which thickens too much the sur-
| face of the hedge, and, by excluding
| the air, causes the decay of the in-
terior branches. Broad-leaved plants
used as hedges, such as the com-
'mon Laurel, should be cut with the
knife by hand; as when the large
leaves are cut through, the appear-
ance of the hedge afterwards is
mutilated and unsightly. Holly
hedges are also best cut by the hand.
Privet, Yew, and Box hedges may
also be clipped. ‘Thorn hedges, iv
the best agricultural districts, are
generally cut with a hedgebill; and
the stroke is always made upward,
‘in order not to fracture the shoots;
as breaking them, by admitting
moisture, causes them to decay at
the points, and also stimulates them
to produce small shoots,
thicken the hedge too much at the
surface. There are two kinds of
| shears for cutting hedges; the com-
mon kind, in which the two blades
work on a fixed pivot, and make a
crushing cut which bruises the
-shoot; and the pruning-shears, im
which the pivot is fixed into one
blade, and the other moves over it
"ina groove, in consequence of which
a draw-cut is produced in the same
manner, as if the hedge had been
‘eut by hand with a knife. All

|
)

which ©

+m

e

COB EA.

162

ER Pe

COCCINELLA.

hedges, and especially all garden
hedges, should be cut by this kind
of shears.

CLoTHiInc THE STEMS OF TREES |

is a practice resorted to with hali-

hardy species, such as some kinds |

of Magnolia, for the purpose of pre-
serving vitality in the lower part of
the stem, and the collar or neck of
the tree, by excluding the cold, and
throwing off the rain; because +t is

found that the seat of hfe in all |

plants is chiefly in the collar, and
consequently, that a tree may have
all its branches killed, and all its
roots, excepting a part of the trunk
next the collar, and a part of the
main roots below it, and yet live.
The best kind of clothing is wheat
straw, or long slips of bark; and
these ought to be spread out at the
base of the trunk, so as to. throw
off the rain to a foot or two of dis-
tance from the collar.

Coznz\s.— Cobdacee, or Polemo-

“nacee.—C. scandens is a climbing

plant of very rapid growth, and
producing abundance of large bell-
shaped. flowers, which are first
green, but afterwards become purple.
Zhe plant, if allowed plenty of room
for its roots, and grown ii a rich
sandy loam, will extend along a
wall or trellis, thirty or forty feet, in

the course of a single summer. |

When it is wanted to cover any
broad space, the points of the shoots
should be repeatedly pinched cfi, to
make it throw out lateral shoots;
and these should be trained to cover
the bare places.
is rough, the plant will adhere to
it by means of its own tendrils ; but
it is generally better either to nail

it, or to tie it to any projecting |

parts with strands of bast-mat. The
roots may be either in the open
ground, in the free soil of the con-

servatory, or in a pot; but in the |

latter case they should be allowed
abundance of room, and the pot
should be well drained. ‘The vlant

When the wall!

may also be treated either as an
‘annual, a biennial, or a perennial,
/according to convenience. When
treated as an annual, the seeds
should be sown on a_ hotbed in
February; and the plants should
be transplanted into pots, and after-
wards into the open ground, where
they are to flower, in April or May.
When the plant is grown as a bien-
nial, the seeds should be sown as
soon as they are ripe, in pots, and
the young plants should be kept

house during winter, transplanting
them two or three times till spring,
when they should be removed to
the open ground, or to a larger pot,
for flowermg. It may also be treat-
ed as a perennial, when cuttings
should be struck in autumn under
a bell-glass, and the pots plunged
into a hotbed or tanpit; or, if the
| plants be growing in the open air,
'layers may be made by pegging
down the lower shoots of the grow-
ing plants on the ground, and leav-
ing them in the open garden; only
taking care to protect them, after
‘they are separated from the parent
plant, by a hand-glass during winter.
Till lately, C. scdndens was the
only species of the genus known ;
but in the autumn of 1839, and the
spring of 1849, some other species
have been raised from Mexican seeds
sent home by Mr. Hartweg, one of
the botanical collectors employed
to collect new plants by the Lon-
den Horticultural Seciety. The
commen Cobea is also a native of
Mexico, where it is called-by a
Spanish name, signifying the vio-
let-bearing ivy.
Coccine'LLA.—Under this name
naturalists distinguish the little
beetles generally called lady-birds,
or lady-cows. They creep slowly
when in their perfect state, and they
are generally found on the ground ;
and though they fly fast and well,
they are rarely seen on the wing

under shelter im a room or green- ~

coccus. 163

COLCHICUM.

stance we call shell lac, which is

They do no injury to plants, either |
in their larva or their perfect state ; |
and when the perfect beetle is found |
on a plant, it is to find a place where
itcanlayitseggs. Instinct teaches
it to visit those plants most infested
with aphides, for it is on these nox-
ious insects that the larva of the
lady-bird feeds ; and consequently,
the eggs of that insect, which are
of a bright yellow, are always found
on the leaves of shoots, the points
of which are covered with the green |
fly. The larve are flattish, fleshy
grubs, tapering to the tail; they
have six legs, and are very active. |
Some years lady-birds are much |
more numerous than in others; but |
their numbers are always found to
bear a proportion to those of the
aphides on which they feed. In
France and Germany, no peasant
will kill them, because they are con-
sidered to be sacred to the Holy |
Virgin ; whence, no doubt, they
have received the name of lady-bird.
When these insects are caught,
they fold up their legs, and emit a |

used in making sealing-wax. The
only cure for these imsects is brush.
ing them off, and washing the
branches affected with soft soap
and water.

CocuINEAL Fic.—See Opu'nTta.

Cocxscoms.—See Ce to's!A.

CockKsPUR-THORN.—See CratTs&'-
GUs.

Corrr‘a.—Cinchondcee, or Ru-
bidcee.—The Coffee-tree, in Eng-
land becomes a stove-shrub, which
should be grown in loam and peat,

|in pots well drained, and sufiicient-

ly large to allow of plenty of room
for its roots. The flowers, which
appear in August or September, are
white and sweet-scented, and the
fruit is round, and of a brilliant
scarlet, enclosing two closely-packed
seeds, which are the coffee. If the
plant is kept well watered, it will
flower every year, and the seeds
will often ripen in England; but the
coffee made from them is very in-
ferior to even the worst of that n-
pened in the tropics. The Coffee-

yellow fluid from their joints, which | tree, being a native of Arabia, re-
has a very unpleasant smell; but | quires a dry heat when it is in a
which is so far from being injurious, | growing state, and only a moderate
that it is considered a remedy for | degree of warmth in winter. When
the tooth-ache. Sometimes the | kept in a moist stove, without a free
country people even crush the poor | circulation of air, the leaves become
beetle, and apply it to a hollow mildewed and infested with insects.
tooth, to prevent it from aching;| Co’~cuicum. — Melanthacee. —
and thus, as in many other cases,|. Meadow Saffron. A hardy bul-
in the hope of an imaginary good, | bous-rooted plant, which will grow
they do themselves a real evil; as, in any common soil. The flowers
of course, it is the interest of all| come up through the ground with-
amateurs of gardening, and particu-| out the leaves in autumn, and
larly all lovers of roses, to protect | closely resemble those of the cro-
the lady-birds. cus. The leaves do not appear till

Co'ccus. — The scale - insect. | the following spring, and great care
These insects are troublesome on | should be taken of them; as if they
many plants: but more so in the | should be injured, so as to prevent
kitchen-garden, on the vine and them from exercising their proper
pine-apple, than on flowering plants. functions in maturing the sap, the
One species of Coccus infests the bulb will not flower the next au-
Opuntia, and is what we call cochi-|tumn. An extract of Colchicum
neal; and another, on a kind of is given in medicine for the rheu-
fig-tree in India, produces the sub- / matism and the gout; and it is said

“te

, tt.

;

COLUTEA.

“164

COMPOSIT &.

to form the basis of the celebrated
eau médicinale. It is, however,
poisonous if taken in large quaunti-
ties

Cotp Houses ror Puants are
not generally in use, though it is a
common practice with gardeners to
remove plants from hothouses into
the back sheds, in order to retard
their blossoming or the ripening of
their fruit. It is also the practice
in some countries to place pots of
fruit-bearing or flowering shrubs in
ice-houses, so as to keep them dor-
mant through the summer; and in
autumn -to remove them to forcing-
houses, where, in consequence of
having been so long in a state of
rest, they grow with great rapidity,
and come into flower much sooner
than if they had not been so long

retarded. Bulbs are also retarded |

in a similar manner ; and even nose-

gays are placed in ice-houses in Italy |

and other warm countries, when it

is wished to retard their decay for |

particular occasions.

Cotui'Nsia.— Scrophularinee. —
Californian annuals, of great beauty,
and well deserving cultivation. The
handsomest species are C. bicolor,

nd C. heterophy'lla, which are very
nearly allied ; and which, if sown
in autumn, and grown in rich loamy
soil, will grow two feet high, and
will produce splendid spikes of flow-
ers. C. grandiflora and C. vérna
are also very nearly allied, if not the
same, and they are smaller plants,
with rather small, but bright-coloured
flowers. They grow best in stiff clay.

Cotxo'm1a. — Polemonidcee. —
Hardy annuals, natives of California,
but scarcely worth growing, from
their coarse and weedy appearance.
C. coccinea is, perhaps, the best.

Couirsroot.—NSee Tussina‘eo.

Co.tumeine.—See AquiLe'cta.

Coxu‘rea. — Leguminose.—The
Biadder Senna. Large deciduous
hardy shrubs, growing and flowering
freely in anycommon soil. ©. cru-

| énta is the smallest and the hand-

somest species. ‘They are all propa-
gated by layers or cuttings.
Comsre tum. — Combretacea. —
Splendid climbing stove-shrubs, na-
tives of Sierra Leone, where they
support themselves by means of a
very curious kind of hook, formed
‘by the persistent footstalks of the
| withered leaves. The principal kinds
|are C. purpireum, C. comosum, and
| C. grandiflorum. They are all very
beautiful; and all require to be grown
‘ina mixture of loamvand peat. They
are propagated by cuttings or layers.
Though generally grown in a stove,
'they may be made to flower in a
| greenhouse, or in the open air.—See
| ALLAMA/NDA.
| CommeLpna. — Commelinee. —
| Perennial and annual plants, hardy
and tender, with beautiful bright
blue flowers. C. celéstis, L., has
tuberous roots, but it may be raised
from seed, by sowing it in a hotbed
early in the season, and turning it
| out into the open border in common
_ garden soil, tolerably rich, durimg the
/summer; and in autumn its tuberous
roots may be taken up, and preserved
_during the winter, to be replanted
in the open ground in spring ; or
they may be protected by covering
the ground with ashes or sand.
Cona'nTHERA. —Asphodeldcea.—
Chilian bulbs, requiring the green-
house ; useful from their small
stature, which seldom exceeds six
inches, and from their producing
their blue flowers in ae
Compo’sirz. —— The n posite
flowers, such as the Daisy, are in
fact heads of flowers, composed of
hundreds of little flowers or florets,
as they are called by botanists, each
| of which has its corolla, stamens,
'pistil, and fruit ; the whole being
-surrounded by an involucre which
looks like a calyx. The central part,
which in the Daisy is yellow, is
called the disk, and the florets com-
posing it are tubular; while the outer

COMPOST.

part, which in the Daisy is white, is
called the ray, and its florets are
ligulate, or flat, and open at the
extremity, and tubular at the base.
Other genera have ail the florets |
tubular, as the common Blueboitle, |
and Sweet Sultan; and others are
all ligulate, as in the Dandelion and
Sow-thistle. This last genus affords |
a good example of the pappus, a sort
of feathery crown apparently attach-
ed to the seed, but which is in fact |
the upper part of the calyx cut into
very fine hair like the divisions ; the
calyx remaining attached tothe seed |
when ripe. The pappus is also seen
conspicuously in thistledown, and
the Dandelion ; but some genera of
the Composite are without it, as,
for example, the Daisy and the
Chrysanthemum.
Compost-Grounp.—A space in
some secluded part of a garden, near
the hothouses and pits, and the tool-
house and reserve ground, in which
different kinds of soils, manures, and
composts are prepared and kept.
Though secluded, it should not be
shaded altogether from the sun ; and
the ground should be drained, in order
that the manure, &c., may not be
soaked with moisture.
Coxpost.—T his word is applied to
any soil that is composed of several
ingredients; such as sand, loam, and |
peat, or vegetable mould, &c. ‘These |
mixed soils are found to be much
better for plants than any soil con-
sisting of only one material ; and
thus, whenever choice plants are to
be grown, directions are generally
given for making a compost for
them. In all large gardens, heaps |
of several different kinds of earths)
are kept in the reserve ground, ready |
for mixing as they may be required ;
but in small suburban gardens, peat,
loam, and sand will suffice. These |
soils may be bought in small quan-
tities from the London nurserymen,
say sixpenny worth or a shilling’s |
_ worth of each ; and they may be |

/niums, and similar plants.

CONSERVATIVE WALL.

—_———

kept in large pots in a back shed,
for mixing as required.
ConservaTivE Wau. — Many
greenhouse and some _ hothouse
plants, particularly such as are de-
ciduous, and are naturally of rapid

-and vigorous growth, are found to
| succeed

remarkably well when
planted out during the summer sea-
son in the open garden, either as
standards, or against a wall. Those
which are planted as standards or
bushes in the open beds or borders,

| . e
‘grow vigorously during the months

of June, July, and August, but re-
quire to be taken up in September,
and preserved during the winter in
pots or boxes, for planting out next
season. This is practised with
Fuchsias, Brugmansias, Pelargo-
Other
shrubs are planted against a wall
with a southern exposure ; and those
not only grow and sometimes flower
during the summer, but if protected
during the winter with matting, or
a projecting roof, or both, they will
live for several years, growing vigor-
ously and flowering every season.
The common myrtle, some of the
Acacias, the Eucalypti, and a num-

ber of the rapid-growing New Hol-

land shrubs, are so treated with great
success ; and the fine appearance
which they make in the summer
season, amply repays the expense
and trouble which must be taken
with them. There is scarcely any
limit to the number and kinds of
shrubs which may be treated in this
way ; for while the taller and more
rapid-growing kinds are made to
cover the upper part of the wall, the
dwarfer species may be trained
against the lower part, and herba-
ceous plants, including bulbs, may
be planted all along the base. The
border in which the plants are grown
should be of light sandy soil, of no
great depth ; and it would be an
advantage to thatch it during the®
winter season, to carry off the rain

=

CONSERVATORY.

166

CONVOLVULUS.

to a distance from the roots cf the large roots of the stronger plants,

plants.
plants are kept in the open ground,
the better, excepting during the
growing and flowering season; in

The drier all half-hardy |

order that the plants may make no |

more wood than what they can
thoroughly ripen. Walls used for
purposes of this kind are called

conservative walls ; and next to|

conservatories, they form the most
interesting scenes to the lovers of
plants in an ornamental garden.
Conservatory.—This term ori-
ginally implied a house in which
orange-trees, and other large shrubs,
or small trees, were preserved from
frost during the winter; but at
present it is applied to houses with
glass roofs, in which the plants are
grown in the free soil, and allowed
to assume their natural shapes and
habits of growth. A conservatory
is generally situated so as to be en-
tered from one of the rooms of the
house to which it belongs; and
from which it is often separated
only by a glass door, or by a small
lobby with glass doors. It should,
if possible, have one side facing the
south ; but if it is glazed on every
side, it may have any aspect, not
even excepting the north: though
in the latter case, it will only be
suitable for very strong leathery-
leaved evergreens, such as Camel-
has, Myrtles, &c. ‘The bed for
the plants should be of sandy loam
‘that being the soil that will suit
most plants), two or three feet deep,
and thoroughly drained. The plants
should be of kinds that will grow in

a few years nearly as high as the |

glass; and they should, as much
as possible, be all of the same degree
of vigour, otherwise the stronger
kinds will fill the soil with their
roots, and overpower the weaker.
This, to a certain extent, takes place
in all conservatories, and is un-
_ avoidable. The only remedy for

and prune in their tops, and every
six or seven years to take up all
the plants, excepting, perhaps, some
of the climbers, and to renew the
soil, and re-plant either with the
same or with other plants, or with
part of both. The pillars which
support the roof, and, to a certain
extent, the under side of the raiters,
may be clothed with creepers; but
great care must be taken that these
do not exclude too much light from
the plants beneath them, which
may always be known by the etio-
lated sickly appearance of the latter
The most suitable plants for con-
servatories are those that flower in
the winter season, or very carly in
spring ; such as the Acacias, Ca-
mellias, Melaleucas, Metrosideroses,
Banksias, Oleanders, &c.; and for
climbers, the Kennedias, Zychyas,
Hardenbergias, Bignonias, Teco-
mas, !mpomeeas, Cobea, Passifloras,
Tacsonia, Clematises, &c.
ConvaLua‘ria.— Smilicee.—The
Lily of the Valley. A well-known
and very fragrant little flower, said
to be found wild in some parts of
England. It requires rather a moist
soil, which should be tolerably light.
The plant is increased by dividing
roots, which are very numerous ;
and though it is generally supposed
to like the shade, it will not flower
well unless it has plenty of hght.
Convo'LvuLus. — Convolvulicee.
—Well-known splendid climbing
plants, hardy and half-hardy, an-
nual and perennial. They all re-
quire a rich but light soil, and will
grow well in a compost of equal
parts of heath mould and loam, en-
riched with about the proportion of
a fourth part to the whole, of de-
cayed leaves, or thoroughly retten
manure ; and they should be trained
against stakes or trellis-work, as
their stems are too feeble to support
themselves. Most of the tender

~ the evil, is occasionally to cut in the | kinds of Convolvulus were separat-

2

ck’ ha Sia

Léah\s,

% §

ad

CORMS.

ed from it by Linnezus, and formed
into the genus Ipome'a. All the
stove kinds may be made to flower
in the open air, during summer, by
contriving to keep the roots in heat ;
and the hardy species only require
sowing in the open ground.

Cora Tree.—See Erytnri'na.

Corsuta’r1a. — Mr. Haworth’s
name for one of the new genera he
formed out of Narcissus.

Co/rcnorus. — Tilidcee. — Hot-
house plants, not sufficiently orna-
mental to be worthy of general cul-
tivation. For the well-known Japan

half-hardy shrub, generally called |

Corchorus japonica, see Kernta.
of the showy annuals formerly
known by this name, are now call-
ed Calliopsis, while most of the
perennial species are still left in the
former genus. For the difference
between the derivation of the two
names, and the culture of the an-
nual species, see Cauuio/rsis. The
perennial kinds are quite hardy ;
but as they are tall-growing spread-
ing plants, they require a great deal
of room, and should be planted at
the back of the borders. ‘They wiil
grow in any common soil; and
they are propagated by division of
the roots.

Coria‘ria. — Coridcee. — The
myrtle-leaved Sumach. A dwarf
shrub, with handsome leaves, and
but small flowers. It will grow in
any common soil, and is increased
by division of the roots.

Corms.—Tuberous plants, such

“as the Crocus, the different kinds
of Moreas, Babianas, and most of
the Iridacee. Bulbs are of two
kinds: those which have a number
of coats, or skins, one within the
ther, like the Hyacinth, which are
ealled tunicated bulbs; those which
consist of a number of scales, only
attached at the base, like the Lily;
but what are called Corms, are only
a solid mass of feculent matter, and

167

CORNUS.

| which modern botanists do not al-
‘lew to be bulbs, but call under-
ground stems. Corms do not re-
quire taking up so often as bulbs,
and when they are intended to re-
main for several years in the ground,
they should be planted from four to
six inches deep at first; as every
year a new Corm will form above
the old one; and thus, if planted
too near the surface, the Corm, in
a few years, will be pushed out of
the ground. ul
Corn Cockie.—See Girua'co.
CorNeELIAN CHERRY.—See Co’R-
NUS.
Corn Fiac.—See Guaprouus.
Co/rnus.— Corndcee.—The Dog-
' wood. Well-known shrubs, with
|whitish or yellowish flowers, and
dark purple berries. The species
| are generally ornamental, from the
shining red bark of their branches
|in winter, and the intensely dark
| purplish red of their leaves in au-
'tumn. One species, Cornusmas,
the Cornelian Cherry-tree, a native
_of Europe, is remarkable for the
large size and brilliant colour of its
‘fruit; and another, a native of
| North America, Cornus florida, for
| the large size of its flowers, or rather
| for that of the imvolucres, or floral
leaves, which surround its flowers,
/and which are of a brilliant white
inside, and tinged with violet on the
outside. All the species are remark-
able for the hardness of their wood,
and for the great length of time
| which their seeds will remain in the
| ground before they come up. On
this account, when any kind of
Cornus is to be raised from seed,
| the seeds should be steeped in water
| before sowing ; but, generally speak-
ing, all the kinds are propagated by
layers or cuttings of the old wood,
both of which strike root freely. C.
florida is generally grown in peat,
in a sheltered situation, and thrives
best where its roots are kept in the
| shade; but unless its foliage is fully

3

CORRAA.

1038

CORYSANTHUS.

exposed to the influence of the sun,
it will not flower. Travellers in
North America describe what are
called there the Dog-woods, as vast
forests of this tree, about twelve
feet high, with their branches so
interlaced as to prevent a gleam of
sunshine from reaching their roots.

Coronr' Lua.— Legumindse.—Or-
namental shrubs, hardy and half-
hardy, with bright yellow flowers,
and pinnate leaves. C. E’merus,
the Scorpion Senna, a native

est and hardiest species, has the

flower-buds red, and the expanded |
It will

flowers of a bright yellow.
grow in any soil or situation, and;
as it will bear clipping without much
wijury, it may he grown as a hedge-
plant. It will grow in any garden
soil, and is propagated by cuttings
of the ripe wood or layers. C, glai-
ca, which is a native of France,
has bluish-green leaves and yee
flowers, which are fragrant during
the day, but lose their scent at night.
It flowers early and freely, <
though generally ene’ in the green-
house, i it is very nearly hardy. The
soil should be a sandy loam, mixed
with a feurth part of vegetable
mould, or rotten manure; and the
pots should be well drained.
propagated by seeds, which it ripens
in abundance, or by cuttings in sand,

under a bell-glass.

Corra\s. — Ruticee. — Dwart |

greenhouse shrubs, with leathery
leaves, which are generally either
brown or white on the under sur-
face. The flowers are tubular;

those of C. dlba, and C. rivfa, which |

are white, being much less so than
the others. Several new species,
or hybrids, have been introduced
since 1835; but they appear most |
nearly allied to C. speciosa. All|
the species and varieties flower
abundantly ; producing in a green-
house a constant succession of flow-
ers from November to June. They

of the |
South of Europe, and the common- |

and |

It is}

require an airy, but a somewhat
shaded, situation. The pots should
be well drained, and the soil should
be heath-mould, mixed with a little
loam.

Corya’ntuEs. — Orchidaceae. —
Helmet-flower. — C. macrantha,
Lindl.—(Gongora macrantha, F1.)
has a most singular red and yellow
flower, part of which resembles a
skeleton’s head, with the vertebre
of the neck, and part two folded
bats’ wings. The plant is grown
in a pot in sandy peat, mixed with
lime rubbish ; and the soil is raised
above the level of the pot, as the
flower-stalk hangs down from the
rect. It is a native of the West
Indies ; and like most other of the
tropical Orchiddcee, it requires
abundance of heat and moisture to
| throw it into flower.

Corypba’Lis.— Fumariéeee.—The
_plants composing this genus were
formerly considered to belong to
Fumaria, the Fumitory, but they
/have been separated on account of
the different conformation of the
‘capsule. C. glatica, which is the
most common species, is an annual
from North America, which may
be sown at almost any season, and
in any soil and situation. C. clavi-
culdta, is a British climber, also an
_annual, and pretty from the abun-
| dance of its small white flowers.
It is of very rapid growth, and it is
useful in covering a trellis, &c.,
\from the number and dense habit
of growth of its leaves. It grows
best in a poor sandy or gravelly soil.
| Other plants formerly included in
this genus are now called Diclytra.

Co'ryvLus—Amentdcee or Cupu-
| lifere—The botanic name of the
Hazel, Filbert, &c. The species
are generally shrubs; but C, coltirna,
the Constantinople nut, is a large
ornamental tree.—See HazeEt.

Corysa/ntuus. — Orchidaceae. —
Terrestrial orchidaceous plants, from
| New Holland, which will grow in

*

COTYLEDON.

169

er ee

CRASSULA.

the open air in England, if protected
from frost during winter. They
have dark brown flowers, and are
so seldom cultivated, that they

| Navelwort.

Succulent plants, with
fleshy leaves, and yellow or red
flowers, nearly allied to the House-

leek. They should be grown in

would not have been mentioned in | light earth, mixed with lime rubbish,

the present work, had it not been
to prevent them from being con-
founded with Coryanthes, a genus
of Stove Orchidacee, from the
West Indies.

Co'smea, or Co'smes,—Compo-
site—Mexican plants, generally
grown as annuals, but which have
tuberous roots like the Dahlia, and
may be treated like that plant: ‘The
flowers are very showy, and of a
reddish purple ; and the seeds, when
the plants are grown as annuals,
should be sown in March or April,
in the open ground; or in autumn,
if the young plants can be protected
during winter. The plants will grow
four or five feet high in any com-
mon garden soil.

Coronea'stER.—-Rosdcee.—-Small
_ trees and shrubs, natives of Europe
and India, formerly considered to
belong to the same genus as the
Medlar. ‘They are all well deserv-
ing of cultivation in shrubberies, for
their bright scarlet or black fruit,
and their pretty white or pink flow-
ers. The Nepal species, C. frigida,
C. affinis, C. acuminata, and C.
nummularia, are the most orna-
mental. C. rotundifolia, and C.
microphylla, also natives of Nepal,
are remarkable for their thick leath-
ery evergreen leaves, their snow-
white flowers, and their profusion
of bright scarlet fruit. Both the
latter species form dwarf spreading
shrubs, and are very ornamental
for a lawn. All the species are
hardy, and will grow in any com-
mion soil; and they may all be pro-
pagated by seeds, layers, cuttings,
or grafiing on the common quince
or hawthorn.

Corron-Grass.— See Erropno'-
RUM.

Coryie'pon. — Crassulacee. —

15

or in a compost of peat and loam ;
and the pots should be well drained.
The ornamental species are all na-
tives of the Cape of Good Hope;
and they are propagated by cuttings,
which should be laid on a shelf for
a few days to dry before they are
planted. ‘The European species are
scarcely worth cultivating. The
plant called Venus’s Navelwort does
not belong to this genus, but to
Omphalodes. C. sempervivum, Bieb.,
(Umbiiicus sempervivum, Dec.,) is
one of the commonest species.
Co'tuLa. — Composite. — Hardy
and tender annuals, of which, C.
atrea, L., the flowers of which are
like little golden balls, is the only
one worth cultivating. It will grow
in any common garden soil, and re-
quires to be sown in March, with the
usual treatment of hardy annuals.
Cow-1trcu.—See Mucu'\na.
Cows.tire. — Primuldcee. — Pri-
mula véris, the common Cowslip, is
a well known British plant, which,
when cultivated in gardens, should
be grown in a loamy soil and shel-
tered situation.
CranEsBILL.—See GERA NIUM.
Crare Myrtie.—See Lacer-
STRZ‘MIA.
Cra’ssuLa.—Orassuldcee.—Suc-
culent greenhouse plants, natives of
the Cape of Good Hope, with heads
of red or white flowers. They
should be grown in sandy loam, and
lime or brick rubbish, and the pets
should be well drained. Like all the
Cape plants, all the kinds of Cras-
sula should have alternate seasons
of stimulus and repose. When they
are growing, and about to flower,
they should be well watered, at least
once every day, though the water
should never be suffered to stand in
the saucer; and when the flowers

CRATZGUS.

170

CRATZZGUS.

begin to fade, the supply of water
should be gradually lessened, till, at |
last, very little is given, and that not |
oftener than once a week. ‘The
plants are propagated by cuttings, |
which should be laid on a shelf two |
or three days to dry before planting,
or they will rot. When plants of
Crassula are not well drained, or if
stagnant water is retained round
the roots, by letting water stand in
the saucer, the stems are very apt
to damp off. C.cocctnea and some |
other species were separated from

formed inte the genus Kalosanthes ;
put this name does not appear to
have been adopted by many persons,
and the plants are still generally
called Crassula, both in nurseries
and private collections.

Cratz\cus. — Rosdcee. — The
common Hawthorn, C. Oxyacantha,
is so well known for its fragrant and
beautiful flowers, that most persons
will be anxious to know the other
species of the same genus; and, in
fact, several of the North American
thorns are the most ornamental low
trees we have in our gardens and
shrubberies. The species are all
hardy, and they all flower and fruit
freely, and are equally ornamental
in both states. Almost all the
flowers are white ; but the fruit
varies in colour, some being scarlet,

some yellow, some purple, and some
green. The fruit varies also in size
from that of C. spathulata, which
is not larger than a grain of mustard-
seed, to that of C. Mexicana, which
*; nearly as large as a Golden Pippin.
‘The fruit of C. Azarélus, C. Arénia,
and C. tanacetifolia, all large and
yellow, and that of C. edoratissima,
of a bright coral colour, are all very

ood to eat ; and many persons do
not dislike the haws of the common
Hawthorn. There are nearly a
hundred different kinds of Crate\gus,
including the hybrids and varieties ;

of the common Hawthorn. The
handsomest species for their flowers,
are the red-blossomed and double-
flowered Hawthorns ; the hand-
somest for their leaves, are the
different kinds of Cockspur-thorn

| (C. crus-gélli), C. punctata, C.

pyrifolia, C. prunifolia (the leaves
of which die off of a deep red), and
C. Celsii: and the most curious for
their fruit are C. Douglassii, C.
mexicana and C. orientalis. The
earliest flowering in spring are C.

_purierpa, and C. nigra, the latter
the others by Mr. Haworth, and |

of which is said to attract nightin-
gales ; and the Glastonbury thorn,
a variety of the common Hawthorn,
often flowers at Christmas. C.
Oxyacantha péndula, and C. O.
regine, Queen Mary’s thorn, have
both pendulous branches; and C.
O. stricta, and C. tanacetifolia
grow stiff and upright, like a Lom-
bardy poplar. C. tanacetifolia and
C. odoratissima have bluish-green
leaves, which look as though they
had been slightly powdered ; and
C. crus-galli splendens, and several
other kinds, have their leaves of a
shining dark blackish green. C.
pyracantha is an evergreen, and has
a very good effect when trained
against a wall, from its shining
leaves, its bunches of pure white
flowers, and its brillant scarlet fruit,
which are so abundant in winter as
to induce the French to. call the
plant Buisson ardent, or the Burn-
ing Bush.

All the species of Crategus will
grow well in any soil that is natu-
rally dry; but if planted in marshy
ground, they will be stunted in their
growth, and their leaves and fruit
will become spotted and unhealthy.
The common Hawthorn is propa-
gated by seeds, which often lie two
years in the ground before they ger-
minate, if not prepared before
sowing, by being suffered to lie for
several months in what is called a

and of these thirty-one are varieties | rot-heap ; and which is often turned

*

CROCUS.

171

CROCUS.

over during that time, to prevent the
seeds from haying their vital powers

destroyed by the heat generated by |

fermentation. ‘The finer kinds of

thorns are generally grafted or bud- |

ded on seedlings of the common
Hawthorn.

Creepinc Cereus.—Céreus fla-
gelliformis. — A succulent plant
with long round pendent stems,

beautiful pink flowers, and dark |

purple eatable fruit. For the cul-
ture, &c., see Cre‘REUs.

Cre'pis. — Composite.— Annual,
biennial, and perennial plants, na-
tives of Europe, of easy culture in
any common soil. The two kinds
most common in gardens are, how-
ever, now removed to other genera ;
C. barbata, the yellow Hawkweed,
being now made Tolpis barbata, and
Crépis rubra, the red Hawkweed,
being now called Borkhaisia riibre.
The first kind only requires sowing
in the open ground with the other
annuals in March or April, and may
be transplanted if necessary ; the
second is also quite hardy, but it
should be sown where it is to re-
main, as it does not well bear trans-
planting.

Cress-Rocxet.—See Ve'Lua.

Crinum. -—Amaryllidacee.—Stove
bulbous-rooted, lily-like plants, with
very long leaves and large white
flowers, which in some species are
fragrant. The plants should be

grown in rich loam mixed with a |

little peat and sand, and allowed
plenty of pot-room. ‘They are
Increased by suckers, which are
produced very sparingly. Several
of the plants which are called
by some botanists Crinum, are
called by others Pancratium, or
Amaryllis.

, Cro'cus.—Iriddcee.—There are
“nearly a hundred named kinds of
Crocus, including hybrids and varie-

‘not be taken out of the ground
oftener than once in three years,
being replanted as soon as possible.
The commonest kinds are C. vérnus,
of which there are many varieties,
all, however, having in them some
shade of lilach mixed with white; C.
| versicolor, to which division belong
the beautifully-feathered kinds of
| purple; C. biflérus, the Scotch Cro
cus, striped white and purple, and
generally the first to flower in
Spring ; C. susidnus, the Cloth of
Gold, striped orange and very dark
purple ; C. sulphtreus, very pale
yellow, or cream-coloured ; and G.
luteus, the common yellow. Be-
sides these, there is C. sativus, the
autumn-flowering Crocus, or saffron,
which is cultivated on a large scale,
in some parts of England, particu-
| larly near Saffron Walden in Essex,
for its flowers, which, when dried,
become saffron, and are used in dye-
ing. There are also large planta-
| tions of saffron in France; but in
| that country the bulb is frequently
|attacked by a fungus which the
| French call mort de safran, which
makes it wither up and perish. All
the kinds of spring Crocuses should
be grown in light sandy loam well
drained, and they may be planted
| either in rows or beds: or they may
be made to forma kind of arabesque
pattern in the borders.

In whatever way the Crocus may
be planted, the leaves should never
be cut off till they begin to wither,
as without their assistance the plant
cannot accumulate matter to form
its new bulb for the ensuing season.
The new bulb always forms above
the old one ; so that in four or five
years they will have almost pushed
themselves out of the ground; and

from this habit of growth, Crocuses
are generally planted three or four

/inches deep. Crocuses, when in

ties ; but there are only about thirty flower, are frequently destroyed by
distinct species. All the kinds have | sparrows, which peck at them, and
bulb-tubers or corms, and they should | the bulbs are often eaten by mice.

“!. + ae iat Taba —

=

CROWEA.

172

CUCUBALUS.

They ripen abundance of seed, but ‘should be grown in a compost of
the seedlings do not flower till the | vegetable mould, sand, and peat,
| and the pots must be well drained ;
_as, though it requires frequent wa-

third or fourth year.
Crocks, or Potsnerps.—Broken

pieces of flower-pots, bricks, or tiles, |

used for draining flower-pots, con- |

taining plants.

Crosssreps differ from hybrids
in being produced by plants more
nearly allied to each other; as two
varieties of one species, two nearly
allied species, &c. For the mode
of making these crosses, see GERA-
nium and Hysrip.

Crorara‘ria. — Leguminose. —
Herbaceous plants, natives of the

East and West Indies, and a few |

shrubs, natives of the Cape, with
showy pea-flowers, generally either
purple or yellow. There are a few
annual species, the hardy ones of
which are natives of North America,
but the species most commonly cul-

tivated are greenhouse shrubs. They |

should be grown in sandy loam and |

peat, well drained; and they are |

propagated by cuttings of the young
wood and seeds.
Cro‘ron.— Euphorbidcee.—-Most-

tering, no plant suffers more from
the effects of water being allowed to
remain in a stagnant state about its
roots. Whenever the leaves turn
yellow, and the flowers drop off
without expanding, the cultivator
may feel assured that there is some
fault in the drainage, and the plant
should be repotted. It is increased
by cuttings.

Crown ImpertaL.—A very showy
bulbous-rooted plant, formerly in-
cluded in the genus Fritillaria ; but
it has lately been placed in another
genus. It is quite hardy, and wher.
the bulb is once planted in any com-
mon garden soil, the plant needs ne
other culture.

CructAne'LLa.— Rubiicee, or Ga-
lidceez.—The very beautiful little
plant called C. stylosa, has brought
this somewhat neglected genus
again into notice ; though Dr. Lind-
ley doubts its belonging to the genus
at all. As, however, itis generally

ly stove-shrubs, natives of the East | so called in gardens and nurseries,

Indies and South America.

picta (Codie\um pictum, Juss.) is a | the subject.

very remarkable and ornamental
plant, from the brilliant colour of

its leaves, which are variegated |

with blotches of scarlet yellow, and
dark purple. This species should
be grown in lime-rubbish and peat,
or in sand only, and the pots must
be well drained, or the leaves will
soon become green, and lose their
beauty. The Croton oil is made
from an annual species, C. T#glium,
a native of the East Indies. The
shrubby kinds are propagated by
cuttings, which should not have
their leaves shortened, and which
must be struck in moist heat.
CrowFoot.—See Ranvu’/Ncvuvs.
Cro‘wea. — Rutécee. — A very
pretty New Holland shrub, which
will flower nearly all the year. It

C. | nothing further will be said here on

It is a hardy peren-
nial, a native of mountains in Per-

|sia, growing about a foot high in

any good garden soil, and well
adapted for beds in a geometric
flower-garden, from its profusion of
bright pink flowers, which it con-
tinues producing from June to Sep-
tember. It is well adapted for rock-
work, and it is increased by dividing
the roots. ;

Cryprocamous PLants.—Mosses,
Ferns, Lichens, and other plants,
which do not produce any visible
flowers.

Cuckoo-FLOWER.—Several British
spring-flowering plants are known
by this name, but that most com-
monly so designated is Cardamine
pratensis.

Cucu'zaLus.—Caryophyllacee.-—

©

\

eT es

*

CUSCUTA.

Wild British flowers, resembling the

Silene, or Catchfly.

Cu'puea. — Lythrdcee. — South
American plants#with very curious
flowers, some of which are half-
hardy annuals, and some stove-
shrubs. ‘They require a moist rich
soil, and a shaded situation.

Cuscu‘ta. — Convolruldcee. —
The Dodder. Parasitical plants,
which are sometimes grown in
greenhouses ; are objects of curiosi-
ty.
seeds should be sown in a pot, in
which is growing a common horse-
shoe geranium (Pelargénium zo-
nale.) As soon as the seed of the
Cuscuta begins to germinate, it
sends out a delicate thread-like stem,
which is leafless, and which soon
coils itself round the stem and
branches of the voor geranium, ad-
hering to them by a number of wart-
like protuberances, or suckers, which
appear at intervals along its stem.
The root of the parasite now with-
ers, but the plant itseif continues
to thrive, as it feeds, vampire-like,
on the sap of the poor geranium ;
and it grows vigorously, producing
abundance of leaves and flowers,
while the geranium appears to sick-
en, its leaves turn yellow and drop
off, and it finally wastesaway. The
geranium should be tall and much
branched; and when this is the
case, the Cuscuta forms a very or-
namental object, hanging down in
graceful festoons, and producing
abundance of its glossy pale blush-
coloured flowers, which are very
fragrant. Sometimes this parasite
is propagated by shoots, which

173

CUTTINGS.

Cusrarp AppLe.—See Ano'na.

Curtines.—It may be received
as a general principle, that all plants
which preduce shoots may be pro-
pagated by cuttings ; though some
plants are much more difficult to
propagate in this manner than others.
Generally speaking, all the soft-
wooded succulent plants, which
have abundance of sap, such as
Pelargoniums (Geraniums), Fuch-
sias, Petunias, and Verbenas, strike

When this is the case, the | root readily ; while dry hard-wooded

plants, such as Heaths, and the
different kinds of Epacris, are very
difficult to strike. ‘The usual direc-
tions for striking cuttings are, to prt
them in pure sand, and to cover
them with a bell-glass; and this
may be done as a precautionary
method with all cuttings, though it
is only essential with those that are
difficult to strike. Some cuttings
are directed to be made of the old
wood, and some of the young tender
shoots of the current year ; in gene-
ral, however, the safest plan is, to
take off the shoot just below where
the young wood is united to that of
the previous season, so that a small
portion of the old wood may remain
attached to the cutting. The shoot
should be cut off with what garden-
ers call a clean cut (as, if it be
bruised, or left jagged or uneven,
it most probably will not grow 3)
and it should be planted in sandy
soil, to ensure drainage, as the cut-
ting will rot, or, as gardeners term it,
damp off, if water in a stagnant
state be suffered to remain round it.
When the cutting is put into the
ground, the earth should be made

should be wrapped in wet moss, and | quite firm to its lower end; as, if
tied on the plant to which they are | any space be left below it, the roots

to adhere. ‘Two species of Cuscuta
are natives of Britain, and are very
troublesome in cat-fields; but the
other kinds are natives of the South
of Europe and the tropics. The
handsomest species, C. verrucosa,
is from Nepal.
15*

will wither as soon as they shoot
forth. Cuttings are considered most
likely to succeed when taken from
the horizontal branches of the plant,
nearest the ground; and as least
likely to strike root, when taken
from the upright shoots at the sum-

CUTTINGS.

174

bo

CUTTINGS.

mit of the plant; though this rule |
has many exceptions. A shoot of
the soft-wooded kinds, which strike
easily, may be divided into several
cuttings, all of which will grow;
but with all the hard-wooded kinds,
only one cutting must be taken from
the tip ofeach shoot. Shoots which
are of the average strength, are pre-
ferable to those that are either very
strong or very weak; and those are
best that have only leaf-buds, and
no flower-buds on them.

Some cuttings which are difficult
to strike, are directed to have bot-
tom heat. This means, that the
pots in which they are planted are
to be plunged into a hotbed, that
the stimulus afforded by the heat
may induce the cuttings to throw)
out roots. Care must, however, be |
taken that the hotbed is not too hot, |
as in that case it sometimes burns |
the tender roots of the cuttings. Mr. |
Alexander Forsyth, a very intel- |

Fig. 7.—Forsyth’s Mode.

larger pot (a thirty-two), a, and te
have the space ¢ filled with small

pebbles ; e is a layer of peat earth

or moss, and d a covering of sand.
This kind of pot is very useful for
all cuttings that are liable to damp

ligent young gardener, recommends | off, as the water trickles down

the following plan: “ Take a wide- |
mouthed forty-eight size pot, and
put some potsherds at the bottom, |
in the usual manner. Then take
a wide-mouthed small sixty, and
put a piece of clay in the bottom, to
stop the hole, and then place it in-
side the other, so that the tops of
both pots may be on a level. The
space between the pots must then
be filled in with sand or other soil,
and the cuttings inserted as shown
in fig. 7. The inner pot should be
filled with water, and the outer pot
may then be plunged in the ground,
or into a hotbed, and covered with |
a glass, or not, according to the.
nature of the cutting. In fig. 7, a.
shows the clay stopping of the inner
pot; 6, the drainage of the pot-|
sherds ; ¢, the sand, or other soil, in
which the cuttings are inserted;
and d, the water in the inner pot.”

Another method, which is shown
in fig. 8, is to have a small pot (a,
sixty), 5, turned upside down in a

Fig. 8.—Fyffe’s Mode of Striking Cuttings

through the pebbles; and if the pot
be placed in bottom heat, the hot
vapour rises through the pebbles in

the same way, without burning the
| roots.

The following are the principal
kinds of plants propagated by cut-
tings, divided into classes, each of

Ss.
A >
se a

CUTTINGS.

which requires a different treatment:
—Seft wooded greenhouse plants,
such as Geraniums, Fuchsias,
Brugmansias, Petunias, Verbenas,
Tropeolums, Maurandyas, e.

These may have cuttings taken off

in spring, or at almost any period
during summer, and planted in
sandy soil, with or without a glass
over them, and with or without bot-

Fig. $.—Cutting of Aveoa Alata.

tom heat. They may be considered
as the easiest of all cuttings to
strike, the principal art consisting
in cutting the shoot across, through,
or immediately under the joint, with
a clean cut, preserving a few of the
leaves on, and making the lower
end of the cutting quite firm in the
sandy soil in which it is planted.
In the summer time, such cuttings
may be planted in the free soi! ; and
at other seasons, in order te admit
of protection, in pots. In which-
ever mode they are planted, they
must be kept in the shade, and ina
uniform state in regard to moisture,
till they have begun to grow. Their
growing is an indication of their
having taken root, when they
should be taken up, and each plant-
ed in a separate pot.

175

—— as

CUTTINGS.

Hard-wooded greenhouse plants,
such as Camellias, Myrtles, ever-
green Acacias, and most Cape and
Australian shrubs, with compara-
tively broad leaves, are a degree
or two more difficult to strike than
Geraniums and Fuchsias. The

ZZ
ey,
iA — = fs

Fig. 10.—Cutting of a Camellia.

points of the shoots, after the spring
regrowth has been completed, and
before the young wood is thorough-
ly ripened, should be used ; and the
soil should contain a large propor-
tion of sand, and be thoroughly
drained. If cuttings of this kind
are put in during autumn, they re-
| quire to be kept through the winter
under glass, and they will not pro-
duce roots till spring; but if the
plants have made their growth, as
most Australian shrubs do, in Feb-
ruary or March, and the cuttings
| are taken off and planted in these
; months, they will root that same
season, and be fit to transplant into
small pots in the course of the sum-
mer. ‘To accomplish this object, it
is common with cultivators to force
| forward the plants from which cut-
tings are to be taken, by removing
them from the greenhouse to the
hothouse in January; and after
| they have made their shoots, to
harden these before making the cut-
tings, by removing the plants back
‘again to the greenhouse. Most

a

CUTTINGS.

cuttings of this kind require to be
covered with a hand-glass, and
some with a bell-glass.

Heath-like plants, such as Erica,
Epacris, Diosma, are among the
most difficult to propagate by cut-
tings. The points of the shoots
only are to be taken: and these, in
some cases, should be not more
than one inch in length. ‘These
should be taken off early in spring,
when the plants have nearly ceased
growing; and they should be cut
clean across at a joint, and the
leaves clipt, or cut off, for about
half-an-inch of their length. The

Fig. 11.—Cutting of a Heath.

cuttings, thus prepared, are planted
in pure white sand, well drained,
with a little peat soil as a substra-
tum; and they are covered with a
bell-glass, and placed in a frame
near the glass, and shaded. The
best time for putting in Heath cut-
tings is in December; when plants,
that have about half finished their
growth, should be selected. ‘The
cuttings ought not to be more than
one inch long; and even shorter
cuttings sometimes strike better.
The leaves must then be clipped
off with a small and very sharp-

pointed pair of scissors, to about |

half the length of the cutting, or

CUTTINGS.

and thus damp it off. This, after
all, is perhaps one of the principal
reasons why so few, even of gard-
eners, strike Heath cuttings well ;
for the cuttings being very small
and succulent, the operators are
seldom sufficiently careful in clip-
ping off the leaves with scissors,
but cut them off with a knife, resting
the cutting on the thumb-nail ;
though it is evident, that by this
process they cannot make a very
clean cut; and, moreover, that they
must bruise the bark, er tear down
the petiole of every leaf they cut off.

Fig. 12.—Cutting of Epacris.

Having prepared the cutting pro-
perly, it must be gently taken in
the left hand, with a pricker (a
knitting needle answers exceeding-
ly well) in the right, with which a
hole is made in the sand to about
the depth of the shank of the cut-
ting; the cutting is then placed in
the hole, and the pricker is again
put into the sand, to close the sand
round it; as great care must be
taken that no vacuity is left be-
tween the sand and the cutting
anywhere. As soon as the pots
| are filled with cuttings, a bell-glass

less ; as the shorter the shank of| should be put over them, and the

the eutting, the quicker it strikes,
and there is less chance of its rot-
ting. Great care is necessary in
clipping off these leaves, and cutting
the cutting across, so as not m the
slightest degree to lacerate the bark,
for the smallest wound or laceration
will prove fatal to the cutting, by
allowing the moisture to enter it,

| pots should be placed on a green-
house shelf, where the temperature
|is not lower than sixty degrees.
They will require little attention
afterwards ; excepting now and
then when the sun is out, or when
‘snow has fallen, to shade them
| from excessive light, and to remove
such cuttings as begin to rot; for

CUTTINGS.

177

_—_ So

CUTTINGS.

Esa a ee
one rotten cutting, if not taken | tuses, Euphorbias, Mesembryan-
away unmediately, will infect the | themums, Crassulas, and the like,

whole pot, and they will all damp
off in a very little time. Ifa potful
of each sort should be more than
is required, care must be taken to
sort the cuttings out in such a way
that the smocth kinds may be
placed together, and the hairy ones,
the viscid ones, &c., by themselves.
This separation is the more neces-
sary, as the hairy kinds generally
collect more moisture than the
smooth sorts; besides the great
difference of time required to strike
them, some of the smooth or gla-
brous sorts striking in a month,
while some of the viscid ones re-
quire three or four months. When
the cuttings are put in in December,
the greater part of them will be
struck by February or March,
when they should be carefully pot-
ted into thumb-pots, about half
full of very fine potsherds, and the
other half filled up with soil com-
posed of equal parts of finely-sifted
peat and silver sand. The plants
will now only require to be kept
under the hand-glass for a few days,
to let them root again; and then
they must remain for about a fort-
night or three weeks on the green-
house shelf, after which they may be
with safety removed to the cold
frame.

Cuttings of stove-plants generally
require to be planted in the same
kind of soil as the parent plant, and
plunged in a gentle bottom heat,
from a hotbed of tan or stable
manure, under a bell-glass ; though
some ef the more slender-growing
kinds require silver sand, without
bottom heat. As cuttings of many
stove-plants are very large, care
must be taken never to allow them
to flag or droop, and also to preserve
as many of their leaves as possible ;
indeed, this rule may be applied to
almost all cuttings.

Succulent plants, such as Cac-

require to be kept out of the ground
for a few days to dry, after they have
been cut off; and then to be planted
in a mixture of peat, sand, and brick
rubbish, well drained. The pots
may afterwards be set on the dry
shelf of a warm greenhouse, and
only occasionally and slightly wa-
tered ; many of them, indeed, will
require no water till they have
struck.

Many plants, the shoots of which
will not root readily, are easily in-
creased by cuttings of the roots ;
such as some of the Acacias, Roses,
&c. Roots not less than a quarter
of an inch in diameter should be
chosen, and planted in the same
kind of soil in which they have pre-
viously been growing, with their tops
just above ‘the surface of the soil,
and plunged in a gentle bottom heat,
when they will, in a few weeks, form
a bud, and send ap a shoot, and thus
become well established plants in a
shorter time than by almost any
other method. Many hardy plants
are raised from cuttings of the roots,
and these only require to be put into
light rich soil near a wall, or in any
other sheltered situation, and to
be kept rather moist, and shaded
occasionally.

A very curious experiment was_
tried in 1839 by M. Neuman of the
Jardin des Plantes. Finding t
Theophrasta latifolia (Clavija or-
nata. Don), would grow readily
from a cutting formed of a leaf, he
conceived the idea of cutting a leaf
in two, and trying to strike both
parts. He did so, plunging the
plants in the pit of a hothouse, and
succeeded in striking both ; but he
found that though the lower half of
the leaf made roots in three months
(see fig. 13), the upper half (fig.
14) was nearly double that time be-
fore it was quite,established. The
dotted lines in jig. 14 show where

?
{

}
:

— EE _—__ ae

CYCAS.

178

CYCLOBOTHRA.

a portion of the leaf was cut off. herbaceous Palm, requiring the heat
In June, 1840, the two half leaves | of a stove, and remarkable for its
had become beautiful and healthy | curious root-like stem, and enor-

Fig. 14.—Upper Half of the Leaf.

plants, which it was impossible to
distinguish from those struck in the
usual manner. Half leaves of va-
rious plants have also been rooted
in charcoal, in Germany.

Cya‘\nus—The Corn Blue-bottle.
See CenTAURE'A. |

Gy'\cas. —Cycddee—A kind of

mous fern-like leaves. It very
rarely produces seed in England,
and when it does, the seeds are
placed on the margin of the leaves.
The male-flowers are in cones. It
should be grown in a strong rich
loam.

Cy'cLaMEN. — Primuldceea. —
Handsome and curious tuberous-
rooted herbaceous plants. OC. ewro-
peum is a native of Switzerland,
and is very fragrant ; C. coum and
C. vérnum are natives of the South
of Europe ; and all these kinds are
hardy in British gardens, and require
no other care than to be grown in
light rich soil. C. pérsicum is a
greenhouse species, the tubers of
which should be planted in well-
drained pots, early in September,
and kept in the open air till they
have thrown out leaves, when they
should be removed to the greenhouse.
They require plenty of air, and but
very little heat; and during the
months of November and December,
they should have very little water ;
though, when the flowers begin to
form, they should be abundantly
supplied. When they have ceased
flowering, the supply of water should
be diminished ; and about June, the
tubers should be taken out of the
ground, and kept dry till the season
for planting the following autumn.
The best soil for them is equal parts
of loam and rotten manure, or leaf.
mould, with a little peat and sand,
or heath-mould. All the kinds’ are
propagated by seed, which they ripen
in abundance ; and they all require
an open airy situation.

Cyciozo/Trura.—Lilidcee.— Bul-
bous-rooted plants, natives of Cali-
fornia, with nedding flowers, like
those of the Fritiliarias. ‘They are
nearly hardy, and only require to
be kept dry during winter, or to be
taken up in autumn and replanted

CYNIPS.

179

CYPRIPEDIUM.

in spring.
summer.

Cycno'cues.— Orchidaceae. — An
Orchideous plant, commonly called
Swan-wort, from the graceful curve
of the column of the flower, which
resembles the neck of a swan. It
requires a very damp atmosphere,
and the greatest heat ever applied
to a damp stove. For the culture
see Orcuipgeous EpirnyrTes.
~ Cypo'nta.— Rosdcee——The bo-
~tanic name of the Quince tree; and
now also applied to that beautiful
and well-known shrub, with bright
scarlet flowers, formerly called Py'-
rus japonica. Cydonia japonica,
though a native of Japan, is quite
hardy, and will grow in any soil and
situation if not too much exposed.
It bears pruning without injury, and
makes a good hedge. It retains its
leaves nearly all winter; and in
mild seasons, and sheltered situa-
tions, it is almost always in flower.
There are three or four varieties ;
some with half double flowers, and
some the flowers of which are of a
pale bluish colour.

Cymai'p1um. — Orchidaceae. —
Stove Epiphytes, with boat-shaped
flowers. See Orcuiprous Eprpuy-
TES.

Cy‘nres.—The Gall Fly. A kind
of gnat, which occasions the galls
on oaks, &c. The Bedeguar, a
disease which affects rose-trees, is
occasioned by Cy‘nips rose, a little
insect, not more than the twelfth of
an inch long, having the legs and
body red, tipped with black. This
little creature wounds the twig of
the rose-tree, and deposits its eggs
under the bark. The wound swells,
and forms an excrescence, often
two inches in diameter, and cover-
ed with green or pink hairs, which
are curiously branched at their ex-
tremities like little masses of coral.
The excrescence is so ornamentai
that it seems almost a pity to de-
stroy it, and yet, when opened, it

They flower at mid-| will be found to contain a gread

pan of the grubs or pupe of the
y:

CynoctLo'ssum. — Boraginee. —
Hounds’ tongue. Pretty little bi-
ennial and annual plants; natives
of Europe, and requiring only the
common culture of plants of a sim-
ilar nature. Venus’s Navelwort
was formerly considered to belong
to this genus, but it is now removed
to OmPHALo‘DEs.

Cype‘LLa.— Iridécee.—A_ beau-
tiful bulbous-rooted plant, from
Buenos Ayres. It requires the
usual culture of the Iridacee.—See
Care Buss.

Cyprire'pium. — Orchidaceae. —
The Ladies’ Slipper. Terrestrial
orchideous plants, mostly natives of
North America. They should be
grown in peat soil in a shady bor-
der, and covered with a hand-glass,
or in some other manner so as to
keep them dry during winter. They
are very difficult to propagate in
this country, and the plants bought
in the seed shops and nurseries
have generally been imported from
America. ['These plants, frequent-
ly called Moccasin flowers in this
country, are among the most beau-
tiful and curious of all our native
plants. The yellow species, C. pu-
béscens, is the most common, being
frequently found in rich shady
woods. The white and pink C.
spectabile, is the most elegant as
well as the rarest species, is
generally found in swampy woods.
They may all be cultivated in the
garden by placing them in a shady
border, the soil of which is compos-
ed of leaf mould and peat brought
from the woods and swamps, and

their unique blossoms render them

highly deserving of this care. The
best time for transplanting them
from their native localities is when
they are in bloom, and they should
be removed with a ball of earth at-
tached to the roots—Ep.]

ie

CYTISUS.

189

DAHLIA.

CyriLua. — Ericdcee. — Green-
house shrubs with very small white
flowers. For an account of the
beautiful plant sometimes called
Cyrilla pulchélla, see Trevira‘Na.

Cyrta/ntuus.—Amaryllidicee.—
Cape bulbs, with heads of showy
tube-shaped flowers. For culture
see Amary’LLIs.

CyrtocurLum. — Orchidaceae. —
Splendid Mexican Epiphytes ; which
are generally grown on part of the
branch of a tree, or in the husk of
a cocoa-nut, hung up from the
rafters of a hothouse, or damp stove.
When planted, the roots should be
wrapped up in wet moss, and tied
on the branch, or placed in the
husk; and the plants should be
kept in a damp atmosphere, and
frequently watered. Sometimes
these epiphytes are grown in pots,
in which case the soil should be
peat, mixed with lime rubbish.

Cy’ tisus— Leguminose.— There
are above fifty kinds of Cytisus ;
but the kinds best known are the
Laburnums, the common Broom,
(C. scopdrius,) and the Portugal
Broom, (C. aibus.) The common
Laburnum, C. Labirnum, is a well-
known tree, which if it were less
common would be thought extreme-
ly beautiful. There are only three
or four distinct varieties, but the
plant varies very much in the size

of its flowers, in their colour, and |

the length of the racemes in which
they are disposed, and in their fra-
grance. The Scotch Laburnum, C.
alpynus, is much more beautiful
than the common kind; both the
flowers and leaves are larger, and
the flowers are more frequently
fragrant. They are also produced
much later in the season, not com-
ing into flower till the others are
quite over. ‘This is the plant which
the Italians call May, as we do the
Hawthorn. ‘The French call both
species False Ebony, from the black-
ness of the wood ; which, however,

is much darker in C. Labirnum
than in C. alpinus. Both kinds will
grow in any soil and situation, but
they do best in a deep sandy loam,
and a sheltered situation.

D.

Dasa@ cia. — Ericdécee.— Profes-
sor Don’s name for Andromeda
Dabe cia, L., Irishworts, or St.
Dabee’s heath. It is quite hardy,
but requires a moist peaty soil.
The species has purple flowers ; but
there is a beautiful variety, the flow-
ers of which are white.

Darropiu.—See Narer'ssus.

Da'uLia.—Composite.—The im-
portance that has within the last
few years attached to this genus
would render it easy to fill a volume
with descriptions of its various
species and varieties, and the de-
tails of their culture. Its history
is also somewhat curious, as,
strange to say, though it has be-
come so great a favourite, and is so
universally cultivated, the history
of its introduction is very obscure.
It is generally said to have been
introduced by Lady Holland in
1804; but the fact is, it had been
introduced many years before that
period, and was only brought from
Madrid in 1804 by Lady Holland,
who apparently did not know that
it was already in the country. The
first kind of Dahha known to Eu-
ropeans, D. supérflua, Cav., (D.
variabilis, Dec., Georgina pinnata,
W.,) was discovered in Mexico by
Baron Humboldt in 1789, and sent
by him to Professor Cavanilles of
the Botanical Garden, Madrid, who
gave the genus the name of Dahlia,
in honour of the Swedish professor
Dahl. Cavanilles sent a plant of it,
the same year, to the Marchioness
of Bute, who was very fond of flow-
ers, and who kept it in the green-.
house. From this species nearly

DAHLIA. 181

all the varieties known in the gar-
dens have been raised ; as it seeds
freely, and varies very much when
raised from seed. In 1802, D.
frustranea, Ait., (D. coccinea, Cav.,)
wus introduced from France, in
which country it had been raised
from Mexican seeds. A few varie-
ties have been raised from this kind,
but they are much smaller than
the others. It is rather remarka-
ble, that the two species do not
hybridize together; and that D.
supérflua, or variabilis, should pro-
duce flowers of colours so different
as crimson, purple, white, yellow,
orange, and scarlet, without hybri-
dization. Among all the colours,
however, displayed by these varie-
ties, no flowers have yet appeared
of blue, and comparatively few of a
pure white. These two species,
and their varieties, were the ouly
Dahlias known in English gardens
for many years; as, though a few
kinds were introduced from time to
time from France and Spain, yet as
they did not hybridize with the oth-
ers, and were rather more tender,
they were not generally cultivated,
and appear to have been soon lost.
Most of these have, however, been
re-introduced from Mexico, with
several new species, within the last
few years ; and there are now ten
or twelve distinct species, besides
innumerable varieties of D. varid-
bilis, to be procured in England.
The most remarkable of the new
species is the tree Dahlia, D. excélsa,
which is said to grow in Mexico
thirty feet high, with a trunk thick
in proportion. ‘The name of Geor-
gina was applied to the Dahlia by
Willdenow; because the word Dah-
lia was thought to bear too close a
resemblance te the word Dalea,
which had been previously given
by Thunberg to a smalj leguminous
genus. As, however, the words

DAHLIA.

has recommended that the name
Dahlia shall be retained, and most
botanists of the present day have
followed his recommendation. The
name Georgina was given in honour
of Georgi, a German botanist, who
resided for several years at St. Pe-
tersburg.

The Dahlia is a tuberous-rooted
plant, which is propagated either by
seeds, or division of the root. The
seeds are chiefly used for raising
new sorts; and they should be
treated like tender annuals, being
sown on aslight hotbed in February
or March, and planted out in May.
The plants rarely flower the first
year, but the tubers will form in the
course of the summer, and may be
taken up in autumn with those of
the old plants. When the plants
are propagated by division of the
root, care must be taken that each
piece has a bud attached to it.
These buds, or eyes, as the garden-
ers call them, are not scattered all
over the tuber, like those of the po-
tato, but collected in a ring round
the collar of the root. These eyes,
when the root is in a dry state, are
sometimes scarcely perceptible ; and
to discover them, nurserymen often
plant their Dahlia-roots in a hotbed,
‘to start the eyes,” as they call it ;
that is, to force the latent buds suffi-
ciently forward to show where they
are situated, before they divic he
roots for the purpose cf forming
plants. Sometimes the eyes do not
form a ring. round the collar or
crown of the root, but a considera-
ble portion of it is without any buds.
These parts, when divided from the
rest, are called blind tubers; and
though, if put into the ground, they
will live for several years, sending
out abundance of fibrous roots every
year, no gardener has yet been able
to induce a blind tuber to form an
eye, or to send up a shoot. This

are both spelled and pronounced | peculiarity should be kept in mind
cuaerently, Professor De Candolle| by all novices in floriculture; as

16

DAHLIA.

dishonest persons frequently sell
large and healthy-looking tubers,
which are, however, worthless from
their being without eyes. To rem-
edy this evil, an expedient has been
devised of grafting the tubers of
Dahlias in the same manner as is
practised with the tubers of the
Peony in France (see GRAFTING) ;

but it requires great skill in the|

gardener to do this successfully, as
the tuber is very apt to rot at the
point of junction between it and the
graft. One mode of performing the
operation is to take a growing shoot
of a choice Dahlia, and to cut it so

as to form the lower extremity into |

a wedge shape (as shown at a@ in
fig. 15). A barren tuber must then

Fig. 15.—Cleft-grafting the Dahlia.

be prepared (as shown at 6), and the
shoot inserted. Another method is
to make one or two holes in the
neck of a barren tuber, and insert-
ing a bud (see fig. 16), taking care
to make the two surfaces fit exactly,
and covering the edges with sealing-
wax. ‘The pot is then plunged ina
hotbed, till the leaves begin to shoot.

Dahlias are also propagated by
cuttings of the stem, taken from the
lower part of the plant; or young
shoots slipped off the tuber with

182

DAHLIA.

part of the woody fibre attached.
The cuttings should be struck in
sand, or very sandy loam, under a
bell-glass, and with bottom heat.
Great care should be taken to shade
them from the direct rays of the
sun, till they have thrown out roots,
as the leaves are easily withered ;
and when this is the case, they can-
not be recovered, and the cutting
will perish, for want of a due circu-
lation of the sap. The roots will
generally form in a fortnight, or at
most three weeks.

The best soil for Dahlias is a com-
post of equal parts of sand and
loam, with a little peat ; which may
be enriched with part of an old hot-
bed, or decayed leaves. Manure
of any kind shonld, however, be
used very sparingly; as too much
will cause the plant to produce
strong, coarse-growing leaves and
stems, instead of fine flowers.
Striped flowers are never either
bright or distinct in their colours in

Fig. 16.—Peg-grafting the Dahlia.

very rich soil. Dahlias will not
grow well in the richest clayey soil
without sand ; and though they will
grow freely in sand without loam,
the flowers will be poor, and only
semi-double. Though they flower
so late in the year, Dahlias are killed
by the slightest frost ; and thus their
beauty, great as it is, is generally
rather short-lived. As soon as the
leaves turn brown from frost, which
is generally in October, the stems

ee ee

DAHLIA. 183 DAHLIA.

should be cut down; and in No-| fection disqualifies even a fine Dahlia
vember, the tubers should be taken | from competing for a prize, dishonest
up. A dry day should be chosen, | florists frequently try to remove it
if possible; and the tubers should | artificially, after the flower has ex-
be carefully taken up, and laid on
boards in an open shed, or some
similar place, to dry. While drying,
they should be turned every day,
and the earth that falls from them
should be swept away. They should
be dried in an open shed, if possible,

where they will be only Zs
from the rain; for if dried suddenly

by fire-heat, or exposure to the sun,
the tubers are apt to wither up; and
if dried too slowly, without the ad-
mission of plenty of air, they will
rot. They generally do best kept
during the winter in a dry cellar in
sand or sawdust ; but any dry place
will do which is not too hot. In
spring, the tubers are replanted,
either in pots plunged in a slight
hotbed, about the middle of Februa-
ry or the beginning of March, or in
the open ground in May or June;
but the dwarf early-flowering kinds
may be planted in the open air in
April. When the tall kinds are
wanted to flower early, they may
be forced rapidly forward, by being
plunged into stronger heat, and kept
in the hotbed till just ready to flow-
er. If, however, the summer should | panded. The size and colour of the
prove hot and dry, the plants thus | flowers are considered as of inferior
forced are frequently attacked by a | consequence to the form, by professed
disease called the curl, which is} florists ; though, of course, large
eaused by an insect, called the} flowers are generally preferred to
green bug, that perforates the young | small ones, and the colours, what-
leaves, and occasions them to wither | ever they may be, should be always
and shrivel up. All Dahlias are| clear and distinct, without any
also frequently infested with ear-| blotches, clouding, or muddiness.
wigs, which pierce the flower-buds, | There are several distinct classes,
and prevent them from expanding. | if they may be so called, of the

The beauty of the Dahlia is esti- | flowers; as, for example, the Globe
mated principally by the shape of | Dahlias, the dwarfs, the quilled, &c.
the flower, which should be perfectly | As the plants are very luxuriant in
circular, without any of the petals | their stems and leaves, they require
projecting beyond the others; but|some kind of confinement ; and
if the disk in the centre be seen in| they are generally either tied to
a full-blown flower, it is considered | cast-iron stakes painted green, or
as a great defect. As this imper-|drawn through what are called

Fig. 17.—Dalilia-rings.

——— vO

DAPHNE.

184

DATURA.

Dahlia-rings, which are generally
made of cast-iron ; but as these are
rather dear, they may be imitated
by fixing three slender stakes of
wood, in a triangular form, and
forming rings of split willows, which
may be purchased of the basket-
makers, and tying them to the stakes
at regular distances ; or the stakes
may be pierced with holes, and
leaden wire, or slender laths, passed
through them. The dwarf Dahlias
may be pegged down so as to cover
a bed in a systematic flower-garden ;
and thus treated, they have a most
beautiful effect.

Daisy.—See Be’ ius.

Da‘tes.— Leguminise.— Green-
house shrubs, with pinnate leaves,
and small pea-flowers, greatly re-

sembling those of the wild vetches, |

but less beautiful. The genus would
not have been mentioned here, but
on account of its having been the
occasion of the name of the Dahlia
having been changed by Wildenow
to Georgina.—See Da'uxta.

Dame Strove.—A name fre-
quently applied by gardeners to
the Bark stove ; but more prop-
erly belonging to the Orchideous
house, the atmosphere of which is
kept constantly surcharged with
moisture.

Da'pune.—Thymeldcee.—A ge-
nus of beautiful low shrubs, nearly
equally remarkable for their elegant
and often fragrant flowers, and their
bright red, poisonous berries. The
best known species.of the genus is
the common Mezereon (D. Mezé-
reum), which is so general a favour-
ite that it has pet names in almost
every language. The French call
it genteel wood, and pretty wood;
the Italians, the fair plant; the
Germans, silky bark ; and even the
grave Spaniards term it the lady
laurel. In our own language, Cow-
per, one of our sweetest poets in all
that relates to sylvan scenery, thus
beautifully describes it, alluding te

‘the circumstance of its flowers ap-
pearing before its leaves :—

‘Though leafless, well attired and thich

eset, F $
With biushing wreaths investing every
spray.”’

There are two varieties, one with
white, and the other with dark-red
flowers. All the kinds are quite
hardy, and will grow in any com-
mon garden-soil; but they prefer a
rich loam, and a shady situation.
In the nurseries it is generally pro-
pagated by seeds; which are often
two years before they come up, un-

When young plants are purchased,
they should always be transplanted
in October, as the sap begins to be
in motion about Christmas; and the
plants are almost sure to die (or at
least to become sickly), if taken up
after the sap has begun to move.
The poison is aerid, and the best
remedy, if a child should unfortu-
nately eat the berries, is swallowing
oil, melted butter, or milk. ‘The
Mezereon is a native of the North
of Europe, and it is sometimes found
wild in England. The eommon and
twin-flowered Spurge Laurels (D.
Lauredia and D. pontica) are ever-
green bushy shrubs, with dark-green
glossy leaves, and greenish flowers,
which they preduce about Christ-
mas. The first is a native of Britain,
the latter of Asia Minor. ‘They
both require the same culture as the
Mezereon, and the common Spurge
laure! thrives under the drip of trees,
where few other plants will live.
The dwarf Daphnes are generally
somewhat tender, with p.nk fragrant
flowers; and D. oddra, the Chinese
Daphne, is avery fragraut and beau-
tiful greenhouse shrub.

Darvu‘na.— Solanécee.— Strong-
growing, large-leaved plants, geuer-
ally with showy flowers. Most of
the kinds are annuals; the best
known of which are the common

less sown as soon as they are ripe. —

7

DAVIESIA.

185

DECIDUGUS CYPRESS.

Thorn-Apple, D. Stramonium, now | of equal parts of sandy loam and

naturalized in England; D. Metel,
a dwarf species, common in gar-
dens ; D. ceratocailon, a magnificent
plant, and D. Tétula, the purple-
flowered Thorn-Apple. They should
be all raised on a hot-bed, and
planted out in May. The splendid
half-shrubby plant, with large, white,
tube-shaped fragrant flowers, for-
merly called Datira arborea, is
now called Brugménsia suavéolens.
This splendid plant may be grown
in a large tub in the greenhouse, in
heath-mould, during the winter ;
and in May, a pit may be prepared
for it about a foot wider in diameter
than its tub. This pit should be
partially filled with very rotten ma-
nure and decayed leaves, and the
Datura, being turned out of its tub,
and its decayed roots pared off, may
be put into the rich compost pre-
pared for it, when it will grow most
vigorously A plant treated in this
manner in 1835 expanded 1050 flow-
ers from the middle of May to the
middle of September. About the
last week in that month the plant
was taken up out of the ground in
which it had been growing, its roots
and its branches were cut in, and it
was again placed in a tub, to be kept
in the greenhouse till the following
spring. It must be observed, that
the pit prepared for the Datura must
be in soil which is either naturally
dry, from being of a gravelly or
sandy nature, or which has been well
drained ; or that the bottom of the
pit be filled with broken bricks; in
order that the plant may be well
and frequently watered while it is
growing. Probably if its roots and
collar were well protected, it might
be left in the open air without injury
during the winter.

Davir'sta.— Legumindse.—Aus-
tralian shrubs, with orange-yellow
coloured pea-flowers ; which should
be-grown in a greenhouse, in well-
drained pots, and in a soil composed

16*

peat. ‘The pots will require to be
often watered, but should have no
saucers ; as the roots are easily
withered by drought, or rotted by
excess of moisture. The species
are propagated by cuttings, struck
in sand under a bell-glass, but with-
out bottom heat.

Day Lity.—See Hemerroca’.urs.

Deap Lraves.—Few persons are
aware of the great value of dead
leaves to a florist; but the fact is,
that when decayed, leaves form the
best of all manures for flowering
plants. In this state, they are called
leaf-mould, or vegetable mould ;
and under one. of these names they
will be found continually referred to
in all books treating of the culture
of flowers. To prepare this vege-
table-mould, the dead leaves should
be swept up in November, and laid
in a heap in the reserve-ground ;
the heap should be occasionally
turned over, say perhaps once a
month, and in about a year, or at
any rate, by the end of the second
spring, the mould will be fit for use.

Drapiy Nicurssape.— Atropa
Belladénna, a plant of no beauty,
and a deadly poison.

Decayine Leaves.—Many trees
and shrubs are very ornamental from
the beautiful colours which their
leaves assume in autumn}; and
among these may be mentioned the
Ampelopsis, or Virginian Creeper,
the different kinds of Rhus or Su-
mach, the Liquidambar, the Ameri-
can Oaks and Maples, the Rhoao-
dendrons, Azaleas, &c. Many large
trees, such as the birch, the beech
the oak, and the deciduous cypress
are also very ornamental, from their
decaying leaves.

Decipuous Cypress. — Though
these trees, in favourable situations,
become too large to be included in
a work like the present, yet as they
are often introduced in shrubberies,
when of a small size, it may be here

~~

rn eT

DENDROBIUM.

186

DEVIL’S BIT.

observed that they never grow large, | are generally propagated by taking

unless near water. In their native
country (North America) they grow
in swamps and morasses, and are
there from seventy feet to one hun-
dred feet high. When grown in dry
soil, they become stunted, and rarely

exceed ten feet or fifteen feet high ; |
but their foliage assumes a beautiful |

red in dying off, instead of its natural
yellow. Botanists have had some
trouble to know where to place this
tree, as it was first called Cupréssus
disticha, and the generic name was
then changed, first to Schubertia,
and afterwards to 'Taxodium.
Deven nium.— Ranunculacee.—
The Larkspur. Well-known annual,
biennial, and perennial plants, with
curiously-cut leaves and splendid
flowers, which are either purple,
pink, blue, or white, and never yel-
low. The Siberian Larkspurs are
remarkable for the metallic lustre of
their flowers, the hue of which re-
sembles that of silver, which has
been tarnished by fire ; and the Bee
Larkspurs are remarkable and inter-
esting for the curious manner in
which the petals are folded up in the
centre of the flower, so as to resemble
a bee, or a large blue-bottle fly. The

off a joint of the pseudo-bulb, or
stem, and planting it im turfy loam,
well drained. No water should be
given till the plant begins to shoot
from below ; but in a short time, the
green tips of its roots will be seen
protruding through the loose soil in
the pot, and hanging down over the
rim. It is now in a growing state,
and if well supplied with water, and
kept in a damp atmosphere, it will
increase rapidly ; but care should be
taken that its long roots are not in-
jured, as those that are, will wither
away, and never recover. The
flowers hang down in long spikes,
and have a splendid appearance.

Dertrorp Pink.—Didnthus Ar-
méria.—An annual species of Dian-
thus, with clusters of small pink,
scentless flowers, something lke
those of Lobel’s Catchfly. A native
of Britain, generally found in gravel-
ly soil, and growing freely in any
garden, where the soil is not too
rich.

Dev'tz1a. — Philadelphacea. —
Slender branched, graceful shrubs,
with compound panicles of beautiful
white flowers. They will thrive in
any light soil in the open ground ;

Larkspurs will grow in any soil or | but as they require a slight protec-
situation ; but a rich friable loam, | tion durmg winter, they are gene-

and a situation open to the sun, suit
them best. ‘They are improved by
the addition of a good deal of
thoroughly rotten manure to the soil
in which they grow, instead of being
injured by it, as is the case with
most other flowering plants. The

seeds keep good a long time; and

those of the annual kinds do best
sown in autumn, as when sown in
spring they are a long ‘time before
they flower. The perennials are
propagated by division of the root.

Denpro'sium. — Orchiddcee. —
Splendid Mexican epiphytes, which
may be grown on the branches of
trees, or in a pot suspended from the
rafters of the damp stove. They

rally grown in pots, and kept in the
greenhouse. D. scabra, the most
common species, takes its specific
name from the roughness of its
leaves ; which, in its native country,
Japan, are said, by Thunberg, to be
used by the cabinet-makers in pol-
ishing the finer kinds of wood. ©
Devin In a BusH.—See Nice’Lia.
Deviw’s Bir.—Scabidsa succisa.
—A kind of Scabious, quite hardy,
and growing in any soil or situa-
tion. It was formerly supposed to
have great medicinal virtues; and
hence, says the legend, the Devil,
envying mankind such a treasure,
attempted to destroy it, by biting
off a part of the root, which appears

DIANTHUS.

187

DIANTHUS.

as though a part of it were bitten ‘little frost will not hurt them.

off at this day.

About the middle of November, the

Dia'nra@us.—Caryophylldcee, or | plants should be removed to a green-

Silendcee.—A genus of perennial

| house, or shed, where they should

and herbaceous plants, containing | be kept entirely in the shade, mere-

several beautiful and well-known
flowers. ‘The most popular perhaps
of these is the Carnation (Dianthus
Caryophy'llus), which is occasion-
ally found in a wild state in Britain
on oJd walls, particularly on the
ruins of Rochester Castle, &c. In
a cultivated state, the Clove Carna-
tion may be called the breeder, or
normal form, as it bears about the
same relation to the variegated Car-
nations as the self-coloured Tulips
and Auriculas do to the named
varieties of those plants. The
varieties of Carnations are divided
into three kinds: the Flakes, which
are striped with broad bands of two
colours; the Bizarres, which are
striped or streaked, with three
colours ; and the Picotees, which are
much the hardiest, and only border-
ed with a narrow margin of some
dark colour, or dotted with very
small, and almost imperceptible
spots. Carnations should be grown
in a rich loam, mixed with sand or
peat to keep it open, and a little
rotten cow dung, or vegetable mould
to enrich it. They do best in pots,
and the earth should be pressed into
the pots as firmly as possible ; more
so, indeed, than for any other plant.
The plants raised from layers should
be separated from the parent in
August, and they may be potted
three in a five inch pot. The pots
should be well draimed, and the
plants frequently watered, till about
the middle of October, when the
watering should be gradually de-
creased. The layers, when first
potted, may be kept :n the open air;
shading them, for a few days after
potting, from the san; and putting
a band-slass over them, if there
should be apprehenried any danger
ef severe frost at night, though a

ly protected from the frost, as they
will bear a considerable degree of
cold much better than too much
heat. Here they may remain till
March or April, according to the
season, when they should be repot-
ted, and, after a few days, turned
into the open air. In May they
may be either planted out in beds,
or remove to larger pots for flow-
ering, which they will do in June
and July. When the buds have
formed, the plants should be well
watered morning and evening ; and,
in the evening, they should be syr-
inged over the leaves, always wait-
ing till the sun has gone down. The
principal points of beauty in a Car-
nation are, that the stem should be
strong and erect, the calyx well
and regularly opened, the flower
round, with the petals regularly
disposed, the largest on the outside,
and gradually decreasing in size to
the centre, and the colours clear
and distinct, those with a white
ground being preferred. The stripes
should also be broadest at the mar-
gin of each petal. As the calyx of
the Carnation is very apt to burst
on one side before it opens on the
other, and as this spoils the shape
of the flower, many cultivators gent-
ly divide the sepals with a pin, as
soon as the buds are fully swelled ;
and others slip a round piece of
card-board, with a hole in the centre,
over the bud while it is yet quite
small, and push it up over the calyx,
so as to force it to open first at the
top. This piece of pasteboard is
kept on after the expansion of the
flower, and serves to keep the petals
in their proper places. Others tie a
strip of bastmat round the lower
part of the buds, to prevent them
from opening improperly. The

DIANTHUS.

-

flower is also furnished with a stake
to tie it to, and a paper or tin cap,
to shade it from the sun. June
and July are the months for making
layers.
strongest, and lowest sheots of the
plant should be preferred; and each
shoot should be cut about
through, in a slanting direction, at
a joint. A furrow should be made
in the ground an inch or two deep,
in which the cut stem should be
buried, and fastened down with a
bit of hooked twig, so as to have
the wounded part completely co-
vered, and the end of the layer up-

right, an inch or two out of the}

earth. The layer should be mode-
rately watered as soon as it is made,
and the plant should be shaded
after the operation. It may be ob-
served with relation to Carnations
grown in pots, that as their stems
are generally very brittle when
they are moist and succulent, it
may be as well to set the pot in the

hot sun for about an hour before |

the layer is made, to render the
stalks flaccid. Carnations are also
propagated by cuttings (see Pip-
INGS), and some sorts are raised
from seed.

The Pink (Didnihus plumdrius)
is by some supposed to be a variety
of the Carnation; but others make

it a distinct species, though it does |

not appear to be known ina wild
state.

laced Pinks, to be esteemed by

florists, should have their flowers |

about two inches and a half in

diameter; and the petals should be |
white, with rose edges, and a broad |

ring of rich dark purple or crimson,

as nearly black as possible, in the |

centre ; the colours being all strong-

tinct. The culture of the laced
Pink is exactly the same as that of
the Carnation; but the common

188

For this purpose. the outer, |

half |

There are many kinds, but |
only what are called the laced |
Pinks rank as florists’ flowers. The.

DICTAMNUS.

Pinks may be planted in the open
garden, and treated exactly the
/same as the other hardy perennial
border-flowers. 'The Tree-pink (D.
arboreus) is merely a woody kind
of Carnation ; and the Mulepink is
_a hybrid between the Carnation
and the Sweet-William. They both
require only the common treatment
of border flowers. The leaves of
'all the kinds of Pinks and Carna-
tions are called by gardeners the
grass.

The greenhouse species of Di-
anthus grow freely in light rich
inould, with a moderate allowance
of air and water; and they do not
require any particular care in their
culture. They are all very orna-
mental, and they are propagated by
cuttings, which strike readily, and
do not require bottom heat.

batus,
Chinénsis, the Chinese-pink, is
generally treated as a hardy annual ;
but it may be preserved in dry soil
for two or three years.
DicoryLeponous plants have seeds
which separate into two or more co-
tyledons, or seed-leaves, when they
vegetate; and this class compre-
hends three-fourths of all the known
| plants in the world. They have
all reticulated leaves, that is, leaves
the veins in which appear lke net-
work when held up to the light;
and the ligneous species have the
thickness of their stems increased
every year by successive layers of
/new wood, deposited on the outside
of the old wood, immediately under
the bark. In all these points, and
many others less conspicuous, they
differ from the monocotyledonous
plants, or those the seeds of which
have only one seed-leaf, or cotyledon

nella. There are two species, the
_purple and the white, both hardy
perennials, and both natives of Ger-
many. The leaves havea pleasant

For the culture of Dianthus bar- _
see Sweet-Wiiuiam. D._

| Dicra’mnus.—Rutdcee.— Fraxi- -
ly marked, and quite clear and dis- |

oO

ae

=

DIGGING.

smell, like lemon-peel, when rub-
bed, and the plant emits a phos-
phoric vapour, which may be easily
ignited by a candle, and burns like
gas. The flowers are very orna-
mental; and the plants will grow
in any common garden soil, and in
any situation not immediately under
the drip of trees. They are in-
creased by division of the root.
Dini'scus. — Umbeliifere. — The
beautiful Australian plants, some-
times called by this name, and some-
times by that of Trachyméne, are
half-hardy annuals, that require to
be raised on a hotbed, and not plant-
ed out till May or June. In very
cold, exposed situations, they are
generally grown in pots, and kept
in the greenhouse; but they never

189

|

DION AA.

could vegetate, nor trees grow.
Digging (or ploughing, which is the
same thing on a larger scale) is the

| first operation performed by man on

a barren waste when he takes it in-
to cultivation.

Dicira‘uis. — Scrophulérine. —
The Foxglove. If this plant were
not a common British weed, it would
be thought very ornamental; and,
in fact, the Teneriffe species, D.
canariénsis, L., (Isopléxis cana-
riénsis, G. Don), with yellow flow-
ers, and D. scéptrum, L., (I. scép-
trum, G. Don), with orange flowers,
are favourite greenhouse shrubs.
They should be grown in a mixture
of loam and peat, and may be pro-
pagated by cuttings or seeds which
they ripen in abundance. The hardy

flower so well as in the open ground. | herbaceous species which modern
The best way to grow them is to| botanists have left in the genus Di-

sow the seed in autumn as soon as
it can be procured from the seed-
shops, on a slight hotbed, to pot the
plants as soon as they have formed
their second pair of leaves, and to
keep the pots in a frame or green-
house, shifting the plants occasion-
ally, till the following spring, when
they may be planted in the open
ground in @ light rich soil, and they
will flower beautifully.
Die'tytrs.— Fumaridcee. — The
hew name given to several kinds
of Fumaria; as, for example, F.
eximia, F. formosa, &c.
Diervi'Lua.— Caprifolidcee.— A
little North American shrub, with
yellow flowe’s, something like those
of the honeysuckle in shape. It
was formerly considered to belong
to Lonicera. It is very hardy, and
will grow in almost any soil or situ-
ation, sending up abundance of suck-
ers, by which it is easily increased.
Diceinc.—The art of pulverizing
the ground so as to reduce it toa
fit state to be penetrated by the
roots of plants; and also to render
it pervious to the rain and air, with-
out the aid of which neither seeds

gitalis, are mostly natives of the
south of Europe, and are all orna-
mental. They require a hght rich
soil, and are propagated by seeds.
Ditiwy'nia. — Leguminose. —
Australian shrubs with heath-like
leaves, and pea flowers, which are
generally scarlet and orange. They
should be grown in pots well drain-
ed, and in a mixture of peat, loam,
and sand, and they should be well
and regularly watered ; but no wa-
ter should ever be allowed to siand
in the saucers if their pots should
have any, but they are much better
without. They are propagated by
cuttings, which should be struck in
sand under a bell-glass.
Dimorpyo'tHEeEcA.—Composite.—
Professor De Candolle’s new name
for the Cape Marigolds, formerly
called Calendula pluvidlis and C.
hy' brida—See Cau'EnDuLA.
Dion#{\s.— Proserdcee.—Venus’s
Fly-trap. A curious little American
plant, nearly allied to the common
Sun-dew, so often found in boggy
meadows in different parts of Eng-
land.—(See Dro'sera.) Dione‘a
muscipula has a scaly root, almost

DIPLACUS.

190

DIVISION.

like a liliaceous bulb, and it sends

out few fibres; it is therefore very |

difficult to keep, but it does best in
a greenhouse, grown in moss, with
a little mould at the bottom of the
pot, and the pot kept standing in

water, and covered with a bell-glass |

during the heat of the day. The
glass is generally taken off towards
the evening, and the plant allowed
plenty of fresh air, but some gar-
deners do not think this necessary.
It is supposed that the flies this
plant catches, are useful in nourish-
ing it, though not essential to its
support; and the experiment has
been tried of feeding it with very
small pieces of raw meat, which in
a few days appeared surrounded by
a kind of mucus and half digested.
In the like manner, the remains of
the bodies of flies are often found
in the leaves of this plant, and those
of the common Sun-dew, though
both plants will thrive, if kept suth-
ciently moist, without such nour-
ishment.

Dio'sma.— Rutdcee.—Cape shrubs
with hair-like roots, which require
to be grown in pots ina greenhouse,
or room, in sandy peat, well drain-
ed, and frequently watered. Like
all the Cape shrubs, they are easily
killed by too much or too little wa-
ter; and should never be suffered
to stand with water in a saucer, or
to get too dry. ‘They have a very
peculiar smell, which some persons
like, and which is said to be very
wholesome ; but which is generally
thought to be very disagreeable, and
which remains in gloves, or any
other article of dress that may have
touched the plant, for a long time.
The Hottentot belles are said to use
it asa perfume. The plants have
heath-like leaves and small but
pretty flowers ; they are propagated
by cuttings, which root freely in
sand under a glass.

Di piacus. — Scrophularinee. —
The Monkey-plant. The shrubby

‘kinds of Mimulus, with yellow or
scarlet flowers; which should be
grown in a mixture of sandy loam
and peat. They are natives of Cali-
fornia, and like all the plants from
that country, they are easily killed
by the sun striking on the collar of .
the root; they likewise suffer se-
verely from drought, or too much
moisture. ‘They are propagated by
cuttings struck in sand, without
bottom-heat.

Di'rca.— Thymelacee.—Leather-
wood. ‘This is the smallest of trees,
as, though some of the kinds of
willow are of still lower growth, they
are too herbaceous in the texture of
their stems, to be legitimately enti-
tled to the rank of trees. The Dircea,
on the contrary, is as completely a
tree as an oak, though it seldom
grows above three feet high. It is
a native of America, and requires a
marshy soil, or to be grown in peat
kept constantly moist.

Dirrany or Crete.—Origanum
Dictamnus.—A kind of Marjoram,
with pink flowers, a native of Can-
dia, which is quite hardy, but should
be grown in rich mould. On the
Continent, a branch of it hung up
in a room, is said to keep away fleas
and other vermin.

Division.—Plants are said to be
propagated by division when they
are taken up and separated into
portions ; each portion having part
of the root and one or more buds
attached, if in herbaceous plants ;
or a root and part of a stem if in
shrubs, or other ligneous plants
Hence, almost all herbaceous plants
may be propagated by division, as
they generally send up many stems
from their roots; and also all those
shrubs or low trees that send up
suckers. In one sense almost all
ligneous plants may be said to be
propagated by division ; as cuttings
are divisions of the stem or branches.
Indeed, as every bud has the power,
like a seed, of sending a shoot up-

DOG-TOOTH VIOLET.

ward, and roots downward from
its base, every plant may be divided
into as many new plants as it has
buds ; but the common application
of the term division is to the dividing
of those roots which send up many
stems or suckers.

DoppEr.—See Cuscu'ra.

Dopeca‘TtHEON.—Primulacee. —
The American Cowslip. <A very
pretty plant, to which Linneus gave
a very strange name; Dodecatheon
signifying the twelve Roman divini-
ties. The plant is a native of Vir-
ginia, and it is generally considered
quite hardy ; but it is very difficult
to keep. It should be grown in the
open ground, in a sandy loam, in
rather a shady situation, and kept
moist. One reason of its being lost
is, that if the roots are once suffered
to become too dry, they wither ; and
when moisture is given, they rot
instead of reviving; and another
reason is, that as the stem and leaves
die away in winter, the root is often
dug up and thrown away as dead,
by jobbing gardeners, who are unac-
quainted with the plants of the gar-
den they are working in. To prevent
this, a mark of some kind should
always be fixed in the ground in
small gardens ; or when a new gar-
dener isemployed, its situation should
be pointed out to him. ‘There are
several garden varieties.

Dog-toorn VioLet. — Erythro-
nium dens canis is a pretty bulbous-
rooted plant with spotted leaves and
purple flowers. ‘There is a variety
with white flowers ; and E. ameri-
cana has large dark yellow flowers.
The European kinds will grow in
any common garden soil, and do
not require taking up; but the
American species, which is much
the handsomest, is apt to wasiv its
strength in producing roots instead
of flowers. For this reason, it does
best grown in well-drained pots, in
rather poor soil, or what is better, in
sandy peat.

191

DORYCNIUM.

Doc-woop.—See Co rnus.

Do'ticnos.—Leguminose.—Climb-
ing annual and perennial plants,
from the East and West Indies,
generally with purple ar yellow pea-
flowers.. The pods and seeds are
eatable, and in some cases also the
roots. Soy is made from the seeds
of one of the East India species.
They are generally grown ina stove;
but most of the kinds will thrive in
greenhouse heat, particularly if
planted in the free ground in a con-
servatory, and trained up a pillar,
or over trellis-work. The soil for
all the species should be sandy loam.
D. Lablab, L. (Lablavia vulgaris,
D. Don,) the Egyptian Bean, has
splendid dark purple flowers, and
will grow well in the open air, if
treated as a half-hardy annual.

Doro’nicum.— Composite.—Leo-
pard’s Bane. Showy perennial
plants, with large dark yellow flow-
ers, which look very well in a border,
and which will grow with scarcely
any care in any common garden soil.
One species, a native of Siberia, has
white flowers.

Dorrma’nnta.—-Lobelidcee.—-Pro-
fessor De Candolle’s new name for
the common British species of Lo-
belia. It is an aquatic plant, and is
generally found in pends, or small
lakes. ‘There is an American spe-
cies of the same habits, and both
have blue flowers.

Dorya'ntues.—-Amaryllidadcee.—-
D. excélsa, the only species known,
is a splendid Australian plant, send-
ing up a flower-stalk twenty or
thirty feet high, crowned with a head
of bright scarlet flowers. The plant
is herbaceous, and it requires a peaty
soil and greenhouse heat. It dies as
soon as it has produced its flowers.

Dory'cntum. — Leguminodse.——A
genus of little hardy plants, sepa-
rated by Tournefort from the Lotus,
or Bird’s-foot 'Trefoil, and growing
freely in any common soil. They
are most suitable for rockwork.

.) produce abundance

2a ere

DRACOCEPHALUM.

192

DRAINING.

Dovste Dwarr AxLmonp.—See | rich mould, and is propagated by

Ce’Rasus.

DovsLe FLOWERS are particularly

J desirable to cultivate in gardens, not

only from their beauty, but from the
comparative certainty that exists of
their producing their flowers every
year, the plant not being weakened
by ripening much seed. This is
peculiarly the case with the double-
flowered trees and shrubs; the
double-flowered Peach, the double-
flowered Cherry, and the double-
flowered Hawthorn never failing to
of blossoms
every year so long as,the tree con-
tinues in health ; while the single-
flowered kinds generally fail in pro-
ducing an abundant crop of blossoms
every second or third year. This
observation does not apply so forcibly
to semi-double flowers, as they
generally ripen abundance of seeds.
Dra'‘sa. — Crucifere.—Whitlow
grass. Very low plants, admirably
adapted for rockwork, as they are
generally found in a wild state in
the fissures and crevices of rocks
and mountains. They have white
or yellow flowers, and should be
grown in sandy soil, on a bank, or
in any open situation, exposed to the
sun.
Drac#na.-—Asphodelacee.—-The
Dragon-tree. Eastern trees and
shrubs with the habit of palms.
They require a stove in England,
and to be grown in peat and loam.
The tooth-brushes called Dragon’s
root, are made from the root of the
tree species cut into pieces, about
four inches long ; each of which is
beaten at one end with a wooden
mallet, to split it into fibres.
Dracoce’puaLum. — Labidte. —
Dragon’s Head. Several species
of this genus are well known as
garden flowers; particularly D.
Molddavica, the Moldavian Balm, a
hardy annual, and D. canariénse,
the Balm of Gilead, a greenhouse
shrub, which should be grown in

|

—————— ceeae ee ne eee ee ee eS eo

cuttings. Some of the perennial
species, such as D. canéscens, D.
grandiflorum (a native of Siberia,)
and D. austriacum, have large and
splendid blue flowers ; all these are
quite hardy in any common garden
soil, and they are all propagated by
seeds or division of the roots.
Drarninc.—Draining in the open
garden is effected either by surface-
gutters, into which the water may
run, which does not sink into the
soil; or by underground channels,
formed by earthenware tubes called
draining-tiles, or by tunnels built of
brick or stone, or by open drains
partially filled with small pebbles,
broken stones or bricks, or even by
fagots, branches of trees, or other
similar materials, which will pre-
serve a porous channel through
which the water may percolate.
The draining-tiles or other materials
should not rise nearer to the surface
than the common depth of dug
ground, say about a foot or eighteen
inches; and they need not be placed
deeper than the usual depth of
trenched ground, say between two
and three feet. Plant-pots and
boxes are drained by placing crocks
or potsherds, shells, small stones,
or cinders, over the hole in the bot-
tom of the pot; and in large pots
these materials may be covered
with any fibrous matter, such as
old matted roots, loose moss, pieces
of turf, &c., which will prevent the
earth from mixing with the pot-
sherds, stones, or other substances
employed for draining. The great
object of draining is to prevent the
stagnation of water about the roots,
which rots the spongioles or elastic
extremities of the fibres, and sod-
dens or consolidates the earth in
such a manner that the roots cannot
penetrate into it, or if they do, that
they decay for want of air. For
most plants the best materials are
old pots, broken into pieces little

*

DRY STOVE.

more than an inch in diameter,
which gardeners call crocks or pot-
sherds, as from their porous nature
they form reservoirs of moisture,
which will prevent the plants from
ever becoming too dry. Cinders,
on the contrary, are to be preferred
for delicate or succulent-rocted
plants, as the crocks retain so much
moisture as to be injurious to the
roots of these plants. The Austra-
lian and Cape shrubs, should have
their pots drained with two or three
layers of crocks, as these will retain
sufficient moisture to prevent the
roots from withering, which even
an hour or two of perfect dryness
would occasion them to do.

Drititinc.—Sowing seeds singly
in furrows made in straight lines;
a mode of sowing very useful in
culinary crops, but seldom practis-
ed with flowers, which scarcely
ever require to be hoed up.

Dro’sera. — Droserdcee.— The
Sundew. British, American, and
Australian plants, with hairy leaves
and curious flowers, which require
to be grown in moss, or peat, or
heath-mould, kept moist, and dur-
ing the heat of the day covered
with a bell-glass. The hairs on the
leaves support drops of water in the
hottest weather, and being very ir-
ritable, close on any insect that
may chance to touch them, like
those of Dione‘a musc?pula, Venus’s
Fly-trap, the leaf bending over the
insect, and holding it in prison.
The Italian liqueur called Rossoglia
is said to take its name from one of
the species being used in its compo-
sition. ‘The Australian species from
the Swan River, seeds of which
have been introduced by Capt.
Mangles, promise to be very beau-
tiful. All the kinds of Drosera ap-
pear to be very short-lived; and
probably will not live longer than
three or four years, whatever care
may be taken of them.

DUVAUA.

plant structure, for tropical plants
which do not require a moist heat,
such as some of the kinds of Cacti,
cr other succulent plants. The
temperature of the dry stove should
not be less, even in winter, than
between 55° and 65°; but in sum-
mer it may be from 10° to 20°
higher. The plants are placed on
shelves or benches; and they are
grown in pots of sandy peat, or
very porous soil, thoroughly drain-
ed, which in general should be kept
much drier than the soil of plants,
either in the greenhouse, or in the
moist or bark stove. The plants
generally grown in a dry stove are
the different species of Melocacti,
Epiphyllum, Cereus, Euphorbia,
Stapelia, Agave, Mesembryanthe-
mum, Crassula, Sedum, Sempervi-
vum, Larochea, and several sorts
of bulbs, such as Lachenalia, Oxa-
lis, &e.

Dume Cane.—Calddium segui-
num.—A kind of Arum, requiring a
bark stove, and more curious than
beautiful.

Duvau's.— Anacardidcee, or Te-
rebinthacee.—Chilian shrubs, which
prove nearly hardy in the climate
of London. They were called
A'myris by Cavanilles, and Schinus
by Ortega, both professors of bo-
tany at Madrid; and they are oc-
casionally found under these names
in gardens and nurseries. The
commonest kind, D. depéndens,
Dec.,* (A’myris poly'gama, Cav.,)
withstood the winter of 1837-8, in
the Horticultural, Society’s Garden,
with very little protection. The
leaves of plants of this genus, if
thrown upon water, will start and
jump about in a very extraordinary
manner; and they smell strongly
of tarpentine. The plants should
be grown in a light dry soil, and
trained against a south wall, where
they can be protected by a thatched
coping during winter. The flowers,

Dry Srove.— A hothouse, or| which are white, are produced in

Hay

DWARFING.

‘small spikes, and they are succeed-

ed by dark-purple berries.
Dwarr Fan-patm.—Chame‘rops

humilis—This plant is the hardiest |

of the Palm tribe, and it will suc-
ceed if planted out on a lawn, and
slightly protected durmg severe
frosts. It should be grown in rich
mould, well drained, and occasion-
ally watered. When planted out
on a lawn, a pit should be dug for
it about two feet deep; at the bot-
tom of which should be two or three
layers of pebbles, to ensure drain-
age, and then the pit filled up with
rich sandy loam. ‘Thus treated,
and protected during severe winters
by a moveable frame of canvass,
stretched on hoops, or of basket-
work, it will grow vigorously, and
live many years.—See PRorectIna.

Dwarrine. — In some cases,
where there is very little room, it
may be desirable to know how to ob-
tain dwarf trees; though generally
speaking they are, like all unnatu-

_ral objects, im bad taste, and rather

disagreeable than pleasing. When-
ever Chinese buildings are intro-
duced, however, a few dwarf-stunt-
ed elms in China vases should be
placed near them; as in China it is
said that no garden is considered
complete without several of these
little monsters. ‘The mode of mak-
ing them is to take a ring of bark
off one of the branches of a full-
grown Elm tree, and to surround it
with earth wrapped in moss, which
should be kept constantly moist, by
water being thrown on it several
times a day, or by a vessel being
suspended over it, so contrived that
the water may ooze out a drop at a
time, and thus be continually and
regularly falling on the moss. In
the course of a few weeks, the
branch will have thrown out roots;
and when this is supposed to be the
case, it should be detached from
the parent tree, and planted with
the moss still round it in a small

194

ee

DWARFING

pot in very ‘poor soil; as soon as it
begins to grow, it should be shifted
into another pot a little larger ; and
this shifting should be repeated

| several times, into larger and larger

pots, always using poor stony or
gravelly soil, and giving the plant
very little water. Thus treated,
the plant will soon become a little
stunted tree, bearing all the marks
of old age ; and looking like a pooi
decrepit old man, bent double with
age. It is obvious that other forest-
trees might be dwarfed in the same
manner; so that a miniature forest
might easily be formed, the Oaks
assuming a gnarled and rugged
character, and bearing acorns, and
the Pines and Firs with rough fur-
rowed bark, and covered with cones,
and yet the whole not above two
feet high.

Another mode of dwarfing lig-
neous plants is employed to throw
them into flowers or fruit. It is
found that many stove-plants only
bear fruit at the extremity of their
branches; and that our hothouses
are not large enough to permit them
to attain the requisite size. Cuttings
are therefore made from the points
of the shoots ; and when these grow,
other cuttings are made from their
shoots. In this way small compact
plants are obtained, the wood of
which may be more easily ripened
than that of large plants, and which
seldom fail to produce flowers and
fruit. Professor Van Mons practised
this mode of dwarfing to obtain
fruit from his seedling pears sooner
than he could otherwise have done.

Another mede of dwarfing trees
and shrubs is by grafting them on
other low-growing species of the
same, or some nearly allied, genus ;
thus, for example, the common
Horse-chestnut, Ai sculus Hippo-
castanum, may be grafted Pa-
via humilis, which does ntiiecrow
above three or four feet high; the
Azarole, or any of the large Amer-

—<—$=$ = ——

EARTHS.
ican thorns, might be grafted on
Crate\gus parviftora, or C. viridis,
which are about two feet high; and
the common British, or any of the
large-growing American Oaks, on
the Bear-oak, Quércus Bannistéri,
or ilicifolia, which grows to the
height of about three feet.

Herbaceous plants, whether an-
nual or perennial, may be dwarfed,
by growing them first in very small
pots, gradually increasing in size
every time; taking care that each
pot shall be well drained, and that
the soil used to fill up the pots shall
be a rich sandy loam. Thus treat-
ed, and supplied with abundance of
water, which is not suffered to re-
main round the roots, and kept in
an open situation, where they can
have plenty of light and air, and
not be exposed to cold winds, all
herbaceous plants will become bushy
and compact, and will produce
flowers at the extremity of every
shoot; while, on the contrary, if
suffered to remain in small pots,
they will become drawn up, with
weak naked stems, and produce
comparatively few flowers.

EK.

Eartus.—Most amateur garden-
ers confound the words earth and
soil; but they are quite distinct.
There are only three primitive
earths, viz., lime, sand, and clay;
and these, by the admixture of other
substances, and particularly of de-
eayed animal or vegetable matter,
become soils. Thus lime, by ab-
sorbing carbon, changes to chalk,
and becomes the basis of all calea-
reous soils; and clay, mixed witha
little sand, and decayed animals and
vegetables, becomes loam. When
sand predominates in this composi-
tion, or when pure sand is added to
it. the soil ic called sandy loam, and
this is the viry best of all soils for

195

EARWIG.

vegetation; and when chalk or
lime is added, instead of an extra
proportion of sand, the soil is called
calcareous loam, and is admirably
suited for culinary vegetables, &c.,
and some kinds of flowers. Gravel
is a kind of coarse sand ; and sand-
stone, sand in a solid state. Peat
is not properly an earth, but decayed
vegetable matter, which has been
saturated with water, while the pro-
cess of decomposition was going on.
Earta Pesa.—Ldthyrus amphi-
carpos—An annual Pea, which
forms part of the flowers and pods
under ground; and which, though
not very beautiful, is often cultivated
for its singularity. It is a hardy
annual, and should be sown in
March or April.
Earwic.—Forficula auriculdris.
—A well-known insect, that, by a
singular chance, has obtained a bad
character for the mischief that it
does not do; while that which it
really does, passes comparatively
without notice. Many persons de-
stroy earwigs whenever they see
them, from a fear of their creeping
into the ear, and, by eating through
the drum, occasioning deafness—
though this is what they cannot do ;
while but few persons, except flo-
rists, are aware of the great mis-
chief that they do in flower-gardens,
and that they should be destroyed
on that account, with as much care
as slugs, snails, or lice. They are
particularly fond of attacking flow-
ers in the bud; and they destroy, in
this manner, creat numbers of Dah-
lias and Carnations. They also at-
tack bulbous-rooted plants, and all
flowers that have plenty of petals
Many expedients have been devised
to catch these troublesome insects,
and, among others, troughs of wa-
ter have been placed round particu-
lar plants. (These are, however,
of no avail, as the earwigs are fur-
nished with wings, though they are
so delicate in their texture, and fold

*

ECHINOCACTUS.

196

ECHINOPS.

into such little space, as to be rarely | in form and spines to a curled-up

seen.
of hollow pieces of cane, or rhu-
barb-stalks, and sometimes of wood,
or even of tin. The Earwigs feed
during the night, and creep into
those hollow tubes in the morning,
to avoid the heat of the sun; and
consequently may be shaken out
and killed at any time during the day.
The Earwig differs in its habits from
other insects, in regard to its young ;
as it sits on its eggs, and broods over
the young ones, like a hen over her
chickens: most other insects, on the
contrary, die as soon as they have
laid their eggs, which they leave
to be hatched by the sun, and the
young to take care of themselves.
Eccremoca’reus.—Bignoniicee.
—E. scaber, Ruiz et Pavon; (Ca-
lampelis scabra, D. Don.)—A half-
hardy climber, of exceedingly vigor-
ous growth, producing a great pro-
fusion of orange-scarlet flowers, and
ripening abundance of seed. It
will grow in any common garden-
soil; and if cut down to the root in
autumn, and covered with dead
leaves, straw, or any thing to pre-
serve it from the frost during winter,
it will shoot up again the following
spring. It may be propagated by
cuttings struck under a bell-glass ;
but it ripens seeds so freely, that
it is most easily raised from them.
They should be sown in autumn
as soon as they are ripe, on a slight
hotbed ; and the plants, which should
be kept in a frame or greenhouse,
should be shifted two or three times
till they are ceady for planting out
in April or May. They should be
watered asd shaded for a day or
two, till they seem established; but
after that they will require no far-
ther care, except a little training,
if they are wanted to cover any
particular part of the wall, &c.
Ecuinoca’crus. — Cactacee. —
Round-shaped Cacti, which take
their na‘ne from their resemb.ance

Earwig traps are also formed |

hedgehog. ‘There is, however, a
great degree of confusion about them,
and some species that are called
Echinocacti by some botanists, are
called Melocacti by others; and
those with very long tube-shaped
flowers have lately been called Ce-
reus, because their flowers in their
construction resemble those of the
other plants belonging to the genus
Cereus. Whatever botanic name
may be given to them, all the round-
shaped, ribbed, spiny, cr porcupine
Cacti, require the same treatment ;
that is, to be grown in vegetable
mould, mixed with pounded bricks,
or lime rubbish, and allowed bottom-
heat where practicable. ‘The pots
should be drained with cinders; and
the plants should be frequently wa-
tered, but the water should never be
given overhead, as it will rot the
centre, where there is an indentation,
if suffered to lie there, and this can
hardly be avoided, if water is poured
all over the plant. They are pro-
pagated by seeds, which should be
sown in silver sand, and placed ina
warm shaded situation ; or by cut-
ting off the top of the plant, and
after letting lie a day or two to dry,

planting it in silver sand, and not

watering it ; when it will soon throw
out shoots, while the other part of
the plant will form a new top.
The young plants, when raised from
seed, should not be watered when
transplanted, for several days after
transplantation. The flowers of all
the porcupine Cacti are very orna-
mental; and those which are con-
sidered to belong to Cereus, often
have the tv’es of their flowers a
foot long.

Ecut'nors. — Sompdsite. —'The
Globe Thistle. Hardy annual, bien-
nial, and perennial plants, generally

with blue flowers ; that require only
the common culture of their respe
tive kinds, and which will in

almost any soil and situation.

bi

ZDGINGS.
Ecui‘res.—A pocyndécee.—Beau-
tiful stove-climbers, which grow
freely in a mixture of sandy loam
and peat; and which should be
trained up the pillars, and under the
rafters. They are propagated by
cuttings, which strike readily.

E’cutum.—-Boraginadcee.—-Viper’s
Bugloss. Perennial, biennial, and
annual plants, generally with rich
dark-blue flowers ; though some of
the kinds that are natives of the
Cape of Good Hope, and the Cana-
ries, have red, white, or violet flow-
ers. They all require a light soil,
and will grow well in either sandy
or peaty loam ; and they are easily
propagated by seeds or division of
the root.

Epernes are lines of plants, gener-
ally evergreens, to separate walks
from beds or borders. ‘The plant in
most universal use for this purpose
in British gardens is the dwarf Box;
a low evergreen shrub, which retains
its leaves for two or three, and even
four years, and bears clipping, so as
to be kept not more than three or
four inches high, two inches or three
inches broad at the base, and one
inch at top. For the mode of forming
box-edgings, see Bu’xus. [After
Box, the Thrift, Arm2ria vulgaris,
is the best plant in common use for
edgings. It is so easily propagated
by division, that a line of slips, (each
three or four inches in length,)
planted in April, will make a beau-
tiful edging by midsummer, and will
continue in good condition for half
a dozen years, when it may be taken
up, divided, and replanted.— Ep. ]

Edgings to beds and borders are
also formed of other materials, such
as lines of bricks, tiles, or slates, or
of narrow strips of stone, or even of
wood. In general, however, edgings
of this kind have a meager appear-
ance, especially in small gardens,
though they have this advantage,
that they do not harbour snails, slugs,
or other vermin. In architectural

17*

197

never to sink. These stone-edgings
hould never be more than two or

EDGINGS,

| flower-gardens, near a house, where
_ the garden must necessarily partake
' of the character of the architecture
| of the building, stone or brick edgings
[are essential, and they should be

formed of strips of curb-stone, bed-
ded on stone or brickwork, so as

three inches wide, and they should
not rise above the surface of the
walk more than two inches; other-
wise, when they rise higher, unless
the waik be of more than usual
breadth, they give it a sunken ap-
pearance, which is very unpleasant
to the eye. In forming edgings of
brick, the bricks should generally be
placed in the ground endwise ; and
the best effect is produced by using
bricks that have been moulded with
round ends en purpose. Edgings of
tiles, to be kept securely in their
places, should be set in concealed
brickwork ; otherwise they are apt
to get out of place, and to havea
ragged and temporary appearance.
The same may be said of edgings of
slate ; and, in general, brick and
slate edgings are much improved by
a line of dwarf evergreens, planted
close to them on the bed, or border
side. Edgings of boards should be
of oak, for the sake of durability ;
and they should be kept securely in
their places by concealed posts,
driven into the ground, to which the
boards should be nailed, beneath the
surface of the walk.

Much of the beauty of all gardens,
whether useful or ornamental, de-
pends on the neatness and high
keeping of the edgings ; for what-
ever may be the state of the boun-
dary fence, of the gravel, or pave-
ment of the walks, and of the soil
or plants of the borders, if the edg-
ings have an uneven, ragged appear-
ance, or if the plants be either too
large or too small, the garden will
be at once felt to be in bad keeping.

Hitherto nothing has been said

EDWARDSIA.

a* edgings of turf, because these
ze chiefly applicable to pleasure- |
grounds. To form them, the ground |

is first dug, and then levelled, so
as to be about the intended height

of the gravel, or half an inch below |
It is then firmly beaten, so that |

it.
it may not sink afterwards ; and the
turf, which should be procured from
a smooth, even pasture, is laid |
down, and rolled or beaten with a
broad flat mallet, fixed in a long
handle, called a turf-beater, so as to |
be rendered perfectly firm and even.
The breadth of turf-edgings should
seldom be less than two feet, because
less than this width cannot be con-
veniently mown. After the turf has |
been laid down, a garden-line should
be stretched along its margin, and
the edges should be cut smooth with
a spade or a turfing-iron. The walk
may now be filled in with gravel to
within an inch of the upper surface
of the turf, and the soil of the border
may also be raised to the same
height. In the management of the
turf afterwards, the greatest care
must be taken rot to cut the edgings
of the turf so as to show a line of
earth, which always produces a raw
and harsh appearance. Generally

speaking, only the grass should be |

clipped close on the side next the
walk; and if it be found that the
roots of the grass have penetrated
into the gravel, so as to make the
use of the turf-cutter necessary, the
edges of the cut turf should be after-
wards gently pressed down, so as to
make the grass slope gently up from
the walk. ‘This slope will, however,
be very trifling ; as, if the walks are
kept properly full of gravel, they
ought to be as nearly as possible on
a level with the turf.
marks will, of course, apply to all

cases where there is a gravel-walk |

through, or round a lawn ; or, in

short, to all points of junction, be- |

ween gravel and grass.

me

Epwa’rpsia. — Leguminose. —

198

These re- |

ELZAGNUS.

Half-hardy low trees and shrubs,
with pinnate leaves, and very cu-
riously-shaped flowers, (which are
of a dark golden yellow), and seed-
pods. ‘The plants will grow well in
the open air, against a wall, if pro-
tected during winter by a thatched
coping. The soil should be sandy
loam, and kept moderately dry, as
too much moisture to the roots is
apt to make the leaflets turn yellow
pane drop off. The species are all!
|natives of New Zealand; and, on
| their first introduction, they were
| supposed to belong to the genus So-
phora. 'They are propagated by
cuttings, in sand, under a bell-
glass.

Eee Prant.— Solanum Melon-

gena, L.—A tender annual, nearly
allied to the Tomato, the fruit of
which, when white, greatly resem-
bles anegg. ‘There are some varie-
ties with violet-coloured, and some
with dark-purple fruit. All the
'kinds are eatable, if dressed like
'the Tomato. The seed should be
sown in light rich earth, on a hot-
| bed, in February or March, and the
young pricked ont into pots, and
shiited several times, till they are
ready to flower. ‘They may then
be removed to the hothouse or green-
_house; but they will not ripen their
fruit without a good deal of heat.
Evza'cnus. — Eleagndcee. —
The Oleaster, or Wild Olive. Cu-
rious-looking low trees, or shrubs,
with bluish-green leaves, covered
with a white silky down, that gives
them a silvery look in the sun-
beams. The flowers are small and
tube-shaped; they are of a pale yel-
low, and rather fragrant. The fruit
resembles the Olive in shape, and is
of a dark reddish brown. ‘There
/are only two hardy species, one of
which is a native of the Levant,
and the other of America; they
both require a light rich soil, and a
somewhat sheltered situation ; and
they are both propagated by seeds

ipa eee” Mo

ENDOGENS. 199 EPACRIS.

sr cuttings. The Nepal speciesre-| Enxta'ntuus—-Ericdcee.—-Green-
quire a greenhouse. house shrubs, with very handsome
Exper.—See Sameu'cus. arbutus-like pink and white flowers,
Exeruant’s Foot.—See Trstu- | which are produced from September
DINA‘RIA. to February. The plants are very
Exicuxy'sum.— See Hexicury’.| difficult to manage. They should
SUM. be grown in very sandy loam, mix.

Exsno’'L1z1a.—-Labicte—-A plant | ed with a little peat; and they
of no beauty, the flowers of which | should be allowed plenty of air and
somewhat resemble those of the | light, with only enough of heat to
common Mint, but are smaller and | exclude the frost. They will not,
less conspicuous. ‘The plant is only | however, bear planting out, as their
noticed here from the resemblance | roots appear to require to be con-
of its name to that of the Esch-| fined in a small space, and the
scholtzia, which induced Dr. Lind-| plants rarely do well if they are
ley te propose to change the name | transplanted, unless before the roots
of the iatter genus to Chryseis; in| have pushed through the ball of
the same way as it was proposed | earth in the pot, as the roots seem
to change the name of the Dahlia} to dislike fresh soil. The pots
on account of its similarity to Da- | should be well drained with crocks,
lea. As, however, the German | and care should be taken neither to
names are found to be quite as dis- | over-water the plants, nor to let
tinct as Dahl and Dale, the Esch-| them become very dry. They are
scholtzia retains its first appellation. | propagated by cuttings of the ripe-

Em1't1a.— Composite Cassini's | wood, which are struck in sand, un-
name, adopted by Professor De Can- | der a bell-glass, but without bottom-
dolle, in his new arrangement of the | heat ; and which, when transplant-
Composite, for the Cacalia cocct-| ed, should have balls of earth at-
nea, C. sonchifolia, and C. sagittd-| tached. For this reason, only two
ta of Linnzus. or three cuttings should be put into

Empr‘rrum. — Empétree.— The | each pot, and these should be as far
Crow Berry. Little heath-like | asunder as possible.
plants, with pretty flowers and very| E!pacrrs. — Epacridee. — The
shewy berries, adapted for growing | Epacris is a New-Holland shrub,
onrockwork. They shouldbe grown | which the first settlers mistook for
in peat soil, and kept rather dry. a kind of Heath, and which is still

ENCHANTER’s NIGHTSHADE.—NSee | called the Heath in Australia, where
CircE#. the true Heath (/rica) is unknown.

Enpocens. — Monocotyledonous | The E'pacris should be grown in a
plants. The trees belonging to this | soil composed of turf bog, chopped
division, such as the Palms, Tree | small, but not crumbled, and mixed
Ferns, &c., increase very little in| with sand; and they do best in
thickness as they advance in age; | double pots, with moss, kept moist,
but their wood becomes gradually | stuffed between; as, if the hot sun
more 3olid, by the woody fibres | comes on the outside of the pot, the
formed every year in the interior of | tender roots, which soon become
their stems. Trees of this kind | matted round the ball of earth in
have mo medullary rays, and their | the pot, will be withered, and the
trunks, when cut down, show none | plants will receive a severe check,
of thos? marks of the successive |if they are not killed. The pots
layers 9° wood which are so con-| should be well drained, by filling
spicw>as in exogenous trees. them about a third full of broken

+

ad
~~

iia

EPIDENDRUM.

pots, or pieces of brickbat, the| Eprica\a—Ericdécee—The Grand

largest of which should not exceed
two inches in diameter, and small
lumps of freestone; and this will
provide a reservoir of moisture for
the nourishment of the roots. The
plants should be potted high, like
Heaths, as the collar is inevitably
rotted, if buried, by the moisture
which is essential for the roots.
They require plenty of air and light,
but not much heat; sufficient to
exclude the frost in winter is quite
enough for them. Cuttings of the
young wood may be struck in pure
sand, under a bell-glass, and with
the aid of bottom-heat. See Eri‘ca
and Curries.

E/puepra. — Garetdcea. — The
shrubby Horse-tail, or Sea Grape.
Very curious small evergreen

shrubs, with jointed branches, and
apparently without leaves. ‘They
grow best in sea-sand; and, when
pegged down and kept clipped
closely, may be made to present
the extraordinary appearance of
green turf stretching to the very
brink of the sea, and even covered
by it at full tide. They are used
for this purpose, Du Hamel tells us,
in Africa, to cover those dry burn-
ing sands, and to give the appear-
ance of an English lawn, where
not a single blade of grass_ will
grow. ‘The berries are wholesome,
and, when ripe, taste ike mulber-
ries.

Eripve'nprum. — Orchidacee. —
Parasitic plants, which should be
grown in a damp stove or orchideous
house, on pieces of wood hung up
from the rafters for that purpose.
The roots must be wrapped in damp
moss and tied on the wood, into
which they will soon penetrate.
These plants may also be grown in
baskets, or cocoa-nuis filled with
moss, and hung up in the same
manner. ‘They require to be grown
in the shade, and kept very moist
and very hot.

ERICA.

—

Laurel—aA_ little creeping plant,
with white flowers, suitable for rock-
work. It should be grown in sandy
peat, and never suffered to become
too dry. There is a pink-flowered
variety, which was raised by Mr.
Milne, nurseryman, Stoke Newing~-
ton.

Eprio‘\s1um.— Onagrdcee. — The
French Willow-herb. A tall showy
perennial, with stoloniferous roots,
only suited to a shrubbery. It re-
quires no care in its culture; the
only difficulty being to prevent its
overpowering every thing else, when
it is once planted in any situation
not exceedingly dry. There are
several wild species of Epilobium
common in Britain, one of which
is called by the odd name of Cod-
lings-and-Cream. EE. alpinus is a
pretty little plant for reckwork.

Epipuy'LLum.— Cactdcee. — One
of the genera formed out of the
Linnean genus Cactus, by Mr.
Haworth, and comprising those
Cacti that produce their flowers on
their leaves. The genus Epiphy/'l-
lum is, however, now given up, and
the plants in it are called Cereus by
botanists. HE. truncdtum and E.
speciosum, two of the best-known
species of this division of Cacti, are,
however, still generally called by
their original names of Cactus
truncatus, and Cactus speciosus.
Both species are abundant flowerers,
and require only greenhouse heat.
C. truncatus will grow grafted on
almost any other species, and it will
bear other species grafted on it.
For culture, see Cereus.

Era’ntais. — Ranunculaceae. —
The modern botanic name of the
Winter Aconite. The Linnean
name of this plant was Helléborus
hyemalis. For the culture, see
Winter AconITE.

Eri‘ca.— Ericice@a.—The differ-
ent spec: 8 of Heaths are among
the mast beautiful of our greenhceise

fn
ERICA. ERICA.

B.ams, 32d are much more easily level of the mould in the pot, when
growr than is generally supposed. sufficiently full. The compost should
The principal cause of so many | be pressed tightly into the pot; but

failures is, first, that Heaths are
generally potted much too low, and
thus the collar of the plant is fre-
quently rotted ; secondly, that suffi-
cient attention is not paid to water-
ing, as sometimes they are allowed
to be sodden with moisture, from
the pots being improperly drained,

|a little space should be left between
it and the rim, to hold water; and
as soon as the potting is finished,
the plant should be set aside in the
shade, or in a cold frame.

Heaths, to be well grown, should
always be kept ina frame, or house,
by themselves; as they are of too

and at others kept much too dry, | delicate a nature to bear the respi-
by irregular or imperfect watering ;| ration from other plants, and they
and, thirdly, that they are often | also require a very different treat-
grown on a stone shelf ina green-| ment. During summer, when in
house, or on a balcony during the | a frame, they should be allowed all
summer, when a powerful sun strik- | the air that can possibly be given
ing on the pot is sure to scorch their | to them, and they should be fre-
delicate fibrous roots, or, in the quently watered overhead, as the
winter, shut up among other plants, | gardeners call it, when the sun is
and scarcely allowed any air at all; | not upon them ; as the winter comes

in either of which cases they are | on, less air should be given, and

sure to perish. These being the
principal reasons why Heaths do
not generally succeed, it is now ne-
cessary to describe what is consid-
ered the best method of cultivating
them. The soil most suitable to
Heaths is a mixture of three parts
of well-sifted peat to one of white
or silver sand, thoroughly mixed ;
and, if the plants are very large,
a small portion of loam may some-
times be added, though this is not
often required. In potting Heaths,
great attention must be paid to the
drainage ; and, in order to render it
as perfect as possible, two or three
moderate-sized potsherds should be
put over the hole in the bottom
of the pot; after which it should be
filled about a quarter full with very
small pieces of broken tiles; and
over this there should be a thin
layer of unsifted peat. Above the
unsifted peat should be a layer of
prepared peat and sand, and on this
the roots of the Heath should be
placed, and more of the mixture of
peat and sand shaken in among
them; the plants being so placed
that the collar may be above the

they should then never be watered
over their tops; bat still in fine
weather a little air may be allowed
to them, even during a slight frost.
It may indeed be taken as a pro-
verb, that Heaths like to feel the
wind between every leaf. When
grown in greenhouses, Heaths need
not be watered over head ; but great
care must be taken that the roots
never get dried up, for if they do
they seldom recover; indeed, these
plants ought never to be put in green-
houses or rooms, except during the
season of flowering. In very frosty
weather, the only protection neces-
sary for Heaths is a double mat
thrown over the glass of the frame,
and suffered to remain there till the
frost is gone away; for should the
frost affect the plants, and they
should be afterwards exposed to the
sun and air, they become what is
called scorched, and they will either
die, or lose the greater part of their
leaves.

Heaths are raised from seed-cut-
tings or layers, but most frequently
from cuttings, full details for mak-
ing which have been already given.

————

202

ERIOBOTRYA.

(See Currinas.) .Heath-seed should
be sown, if foreign, as soon as it

arrives ; and, if native, as soon as it |

is ripe. For sowing the seed, shal-
low pots or pans should be prepared,
in the same manner as was describ-
ed for potting, but with rather more
sand; and the seed should be mix-
ed with a little sand, and scattered
over the surface of the mould; after
which it may be watered, and set
on a greenhouse shelf, where it may

1¥roe

ERYSIMUM.

by grafting on the common Haw-
thorn.
Erio'pHorum.—-Cyperacee.—-Cot-
ton Grass. The very curious plants
contained in this genus are natives
of Great Britain. The commonest
species E. angustifolia, is. by far

the handsomest, and the tufts of

long, snow-white silky hairs, which

envelope the seed, are so extremely

ornamental, that the plant might

remain till the young plants are)
edge of a pond, &c.; as all the spe-

about an inch high, when they

should be carefully taken up, and |

set round the edges of pots, about
three in a thumb-pot, and then re-
placed on the shelf, till they have
grown sufficiently large to be potted
off singly into small pots; when
they should be allowed to remain a
few days in the house till they are
well-rooted ; after which they may
be placed in the frame with the
large plants. Heaths in pots should
never have saucers to stand in, and
they should be watered twice a day
in summer, and once in winter.
Exri'nus. —- Scrophularinee. —-
Only two species are known, one
of wich is a beautiful little plant,
with purple fiowers, which grows
naturally on old walls, and is admi-
rably adapted for rockwork, as it
continues flowering profusely all the
summer. It is increased by seeds,
or by dividing the roots; and it re-
quires scarcely any Soil to grow in,
but the most suitable is peat, and
pounded bricks or lime-rubbish.
Eriozo'rrya.—Rosdcee.—E. ja-
ponica, formerly called Méspilus
japonica, the Loquat-tree of the
East Indies, is a very handsome
tree for planting in a conservatory
for its noble leaves. It bears clus-
ters of white flowers, and yellow
fruit. In warm situations it will
stand in the open air, but it requires
protection from severe frosts. It
should be grown in a rich loamy
soil, and is generally propagated

be introduced advantageously in
any marshy situation, or-on the

cies will only grow in moist places.
Ero‘pium. — Geranidcee. — The
Wild Geranium. The genus Ero-
dium differs from Geranium and
Pelargonium in the shape of its
seed-vessel. In all the three, the
seed-pod resembles the head and
beak of a bird; in Geranium it re-
sembles a crane’s bill, in Pelargo-
nium it is a stork’s bill, and in Ero-
dium a heron’s bill. Besides these,
the late Mr. Sweet divided the Ge-
ranidcee into a great many genera,
which are now seldom to be met
with. The Erodiums are dwart
annuals, and perennials, with pretty
flowers, only suitable for roekwork.
The tender kinds are grown in a
mixture of sandy loam and peat,
and the hardy ones in any common
garden-soil; and they are increased
by seeds, division of the roots, and
cuttings. See Gera‘nium.
Ery'simum.— Crucifere.— Hedge
Mustard. Most of the kinds are
weedy plants, generally biennials,
seldom grown in British gardens.
One species, E. Perofskianum, an
annual, with dark-orange flowers,
introduced in 1838, has become:
popular from its beauty. EE. ibéri-
cum, Dec. (Cheiranthus armenia-
cus, Botanical Magazinc,) a peren-
nial introduced in 1803, somewhat
resembles EF. Perofskidnum in ap-
pearance, except that its flowers are
yellow instead of orange. ‘These
plants grow est in sandy peat mix-

ESCHSCHOLTZIA.

¢
~

03

EUONY MUS.

ed 7ith a little loam; and they are
quit2 hardy.

Eryrur#\s. — Gentiandcee. —
The Lesser Centaury. Little pink-
flowered plants, mostly annuals,
suitable for rockwork. The seeds
should be ‘sown in autumn in the
open border, and the plants removed
in patches, with earth attached, to
the rockwork in spring.

Eryrarina. — Leguminose. —
The Coral Tree. Stove and green-
house shrubs, with splendid coral-
coloured flowers. EE. laurifolia,
and E. Crista-galli, will grow in
the open air, and they will flower
magnificently in a warm sunny bor-
der, if sheltered by a south wall.
The soil should be a sandy loam, or
loam and peat; and they are pro-
pagated by cuttings of the young
wood struck in sand under a glass,
but without bottom-heat.

Eryturo\nium. — Tulipdcee. —
See Doa’s-Tooru Vioter.

Escatio\n1a. — Escallonidcee.—
Beautiful shrubs, natives of South
America, which are nearly hardy
in the ci'mate of London. They
grow best :n peaty soil, or in very
sandy loam. . rtibra is generally
trained against a wall, but £&.

Monte Vidénsis, which produces |

large clusters of white flowers, is
grown asabush. Both kinds re-
quire-protection from severe frosts.
There are several other kinds, but
only the two mentioned are in ge-
neral cultivation in British gar-
dens.

Escuscno’Lrz1a. — Papeveracee.
—Annual plants, with showy flow-
ers, natives of California, on which
account the first species introduced
was called the Californian Poppy.
The seeds should be sown in the
open border as soon as they are
ripe, as if the sowing be delayed
till spring, the plants frequently do
not flower till the second year.
Sometimes they will live, and flow-
er two, or even three years in suc-

| cession, though this is very rarely

the case.

ErioLtatep.— Drawn up, with
weak and slender stems—a conse-
quence which in hardy plants re-
sults from want of thinning out in

|proper time, and in greenhouse
| plants from being kept in too small
pots, and too far from the light.

Eveary'ptus.—Myrtdcee.—Aus-
tralian trees of enormous size, some
species of which are grown in En-

| gland as greenhouse shrubs. They
should be grown in loam and peat,
and are propagated by cuttings,
which are very difficult to strike.

Evucuaripium. —Onagrarie.—A
little annual, a native of California,
nearly allied to the Clarkias. It
was introduced in 1836, but as it
does not seed freely it is as yet rare.
It should be grown in loam and
peat.

Ever n14.-- Myrtacee.—-The Rose
Apple. Handsome shrubs, grown
as fruit trees in the East Indies,
which produce their splendid flow-
ers freely in British stoves. They
should be grown in a mixture of
two-thirds sandy loam and one-
third peat, and are propagated by
|euttings of the ripe wood, which
strike freely.

Evo'nyrmus.— Celastrinee.— The
Spindle-Tree. The common Brit-
lish species is well known for its
curious and very ornamental fruit ;
but the Ameriean kind, E. latifo-
lius, is much handsomer, both in
fruit and foliage. Itis a very valu-
able shrub for a small garden, as it
will continue to thrive, and to pro-
duce abundance of flowers and

fruit every year, for many years in
succession, without increasing much
in size, or requiring to be cut in. It
is also ornamental in early spring,
from the peculiar form of its buds
and the richness of its dark red
bracteas. All the kinds will grow
in any common garden soil, and
they are increased by seeds or cut-

. %

j™

EVERGREENS.

tings.

American gardens, and the different
sorts, including the white-fruited
variety, are much esteemed for the
gay effect of their fruit-vessels in

the shrubbery during the whole of |

autumn.—Eb. |

Eurno'rsia. — Euphorbidcee, — |

Some of the kinds are British weeds,
such as the Spurge Caper; but
other kinds are thorny shrubs, re-
quiring the heat of a stove in Brit-
ain, and producing flowers of a most
brilliant scarlet. The most beauti-
ful kind is E. filgens, Karwinsky,
E. Jacquinieflora, Hook, which
was introduced in 1836, by Mr.
Rauch. The best plants are raised
from seed; but cuttings may be
struck by plunging them into the
bark-bed, and not covering them
with a glass. The flowering plants
should be grown in loam, mixed
with lime rubbish, or pounded brick.

Evta’x1a— Leguminose.— Aus-
tralian shrubs, with yellow and
orange pea-flowers, which in Eng-
land require a greenhouse. They
should be grown in light peaty soil,
and receive the general treatment
of Australian shrubs. There are
only two species.

Ev‘toca.— Boraginee. — Hardy
and somewhat coarse-growing an-
nuals and perennials, which require
the usual treatmentof similar plants.
See Awnnvats and PERENNIALS.
They will grow in any common
garden soil, and the annuals should
be sown in March or April, as,
though they are natives of Califor-
nia, they are not injured by heat.

Eventnc Primrose.—See CEno-
3BE RA.

Evercreens.—No garden should
be without its due proportion of
evergreens; and these plants are
still more essential in small gardens
than in Jarge ones. Their advan-
tages are, that they afford a screen

204

[The Spindle-Tree is com- |
monly known as the Strewberry- |
Tree, or Burning-Bush, in our |

EVERLASTING.

to secure privacy in winter as wel
as summer ; that they preserve an
appearance of verdure at all sea-
| sons; and that they do not disfigure
the walks by falling leaves, which,
where there is no regular gardener,
render it very difficult to keep a
place neat. They are also very
useful in affording a rich back-
ground to those ornamental trees
and shrubs which produce their
flowers before their leaves; such as
the double-blossomed Peach, the
Almond, the Snowy Mespilus, and
Magnolia Conspicua. It is the want
of evergreens that gives the gardens
in the neighbourhood of Paris,
and most of the other Continental
cities, such an air of meagerness
and poverty. But it cannot there
be remedied, as few evergreens will
resist the cold of their winters.
This may appear strange to those
who have experienced the heat of
the Continental summers ; but the
fact is, that their winters are as
much colder than ours as their sum-
mers are warmer, and thus the
average heat of the year is nearly
the same. Alternate seasons of
great heat and cold are favourable
to deciduous plants, as the heat
ripens their wood, and the cold
gives them a season of complete
repose when they have lost their
leaves; but a moist temperate cli-
mate, like that of Britain, is more
suitable to evergreens, which con-
tinue in a growing state nearly all
the year. van

In street-gardens, besides the
evergreen trees and shrubs, ‘it is
advisable to select a few evergreen
herbaceous plants, such as Pinks
and Carnations, Wallflowers, &c.,
io give an agreeable effect to the
beds during winter, when they are
devoid of flowers.

Evercreen Tuorn.— The Py-
| racantha.—See Crat#'eus.

Everuastinc.—See GNnaPua‘h. Uk
and Hewicury'sum.

>»

|

opt tea”

FEDIA. 205 FENCES.

Evernastineg Pea—Sce La’tuy-| ures we see of the Cornucopia, or
RUS. | Horn of Plenty. It is an annual,
Exocens.—Dicotyledonous plants. | and the seeds only require sowing
The exogenous plants have received | in the open border.
uneir name because the new wood} Fences for flower-gardens and
of their trees and shrubs is deposit- | shrubberies, are either such as are
ed on the outside of the old wood, | intended to be invisible, or, more
one layer being deposited every | properly, not acknowledged,—such
year. ‘Thus the age of a tree may|as barriers of wire, or, light iron
be counted by the number of its| rods, and sunk fences; or such as
layers, shown by its wood when} are intended to be acknowledged,
the trunk is cut down. The soil | and to form part of the landscape,
in which the tree was grown, and|—such as architectural parapets
even the weather in the different | and hedges. Wire fences are com-
years, may be guessed in the same | monly formed of light iron posts or
manner; as the layers of trees) stakes, through holes in which are
grown in rich valleys are much | stretched stout wires, or slender iron
thicker than those of trees grown| rods; or they are formed of light
in poor soils on mountams; and_/| iron hurdles,—that is, separate iron-
the layers deposited in damp coldj| frames, which are placed end to
summers are thicker than those of | end, and can be removed at plea-
dry, warmseasons. Whentreeshave | sure. In forming wire fences of
grown in a wood, with one side of| stakes and iron wires, there is no
the trunk fully exposed to the sun, | difficulty when the line of direction
and the other shaded by the other | is perfectly straight, or consists of a
trees, a difference is very perceptible | number of straight lines joined to-
in the layers. Exogenous trees! gether; but when the direction is
have medullary rays in their wood, | curvilinear, some attention is re-
and leaves with reticulated veins. | quisite to fix the posts in such a
All the forest-trees of Britain, and| manner as to permit the wires,
other temperate climates, belong to| which pass through holes in them,
this class. to be drawn quite tight. To admit
of this being done, each post must
F be fixed into a piece of wood or
: stone, and supported by a brace on
the concave side of the curve; and
Fan Patm.— See Dwarr Fan | both the block and the brace must
Pam. be buried so far under the soil as
Featuer Grass.—Stipa pinnata. | not to be seen. Iron, or wire hur-
—A beautiful kind of grass, well| dles, are too well known to require
worth growing to form tufts in flow- | description. When either hurdles
er borders, from its feathery light-| or fences, composed of posts and
ness and graceful habit of growth.| rods of wire, are intended to keep
It should be grown in light rich| out hares and rabbits, the lower
soil; and it is propagated by seeds, | parts of them, to about the height
or dividing the roots. of two feet, require finer wires to be
Fe‘pia.— Valeridne@e.—Horns.— | fixed to them, in an upright direc-
F. cornucopie, formerly considered | tion, at about three inches apart.
to belong to the genus Valeriana,| Architectural fences are used in
is a coarse-growing, weedy-looking | small gardens, close to the house ;
plant, with pink flowers, and curi-| and they should generally be low
ous seed-pods, shaped like the fig- | walls, of open work, in the style of
18

FENCES. sd

the architecture of the building ;
and these walls may have piers at
regular distances, terminating in
vases, or other architectural orna-
ments, provided these are in harmony
with the house. These walls, and
indeed all other architectural fences,
should be varied with shrubby plants
planted against them, so as to har-
monize them with the plants in the
beds and borders within.

Hedges may either be of ever-
greens, neatly cut, so as to form
living walls with standard plants at
regular distances, to imitate architec-
tural piers ; or they may be formed
of a mixture of different kinds of
flowering shrubs, with evergreen
standard low trees at regular dis-
tances. No plant makes a finer
flower-garden hedge than the box,
the standards in which may be
formed of Cypresses, Junipers, or
Arbor Vite. On a larger scale, the
Holly makes an excellent hedge,
and the standard may be of the
variegated kinds of Holly.
beautiful evergreen, as well as the
English and Portugal Laurels, is
too tender for this purpose in the
Northern States.
Arbor Vitz is perhaps the best sub-
stitute for it—Ep.]
hedge of evergreens and deciduous

flowering shrubs, the Laurustinus, |
the Sweet-Brier, the Pyracantha, |
and the Cydonia japonica, with |
similar shrubs, may be used, with |

the lower kinds of American thorns
(Crate\gus), or the Chinese Crab
(Py‘rus spectabilis), as standards.
A very excellent flower-garden
hedge may be formed by training
the common or the Giant Ivy over
a slight wire fence or trellis (fig. 18) ;
and its uniformity may be broken,
if it is very long, by standards, at
regular distances, either of Ivy,
trained on iron posts with umbrella
tops, or of any kind of low deciduous
evergreen trees. The variegated
species of Ivy, the Ampelopsis, and

206

[This |

The American |

For a mixed |

FERNS.

| a number of other climbing shrubs,

ligneous or herbaceous, also make
beautiful hedges for shelter or sepae
ration in flower-gardens. The Arbor
Vite and common Laurel, alterna-
ting with the variegated variety, the
narrow-leaved variety, and the Por-

Fig. 18.— Wire Fence.

| tugal Laurel, also make excellent
flower-garden fences; as do the
evergreen and variegated kinds of
Privet, the variegated Holly, and the
Aucuba. In short, there is scarcely
any ornamental shrub that will not
form a very suitable fence for a
flower-garden, when carefully train-
ed; and wire-fences, in the summer
season, may be covered with creep-
ing or climbing annuals ; such as
the Nasturtium, the Convolvulus,
&c., or even the tall-growing Salvias,
Petunias, Sweetpeas, and Pelargo-
niums. A very pretty fence of this
| kind may be formed by training the
common Mignonette over a wire
trellis; as it is well known that the
| Mignonette, if sown in autumn and
|kept during the winter in a green-
house, may be trained the following
season to the height of three or four
feet. Honeysuckles also make de-
lightful fences.
Frenne Flower.—See Nice'iua.
Ferns are very ornamental in
shrubberies, from their large an

FICUS ELASTICA,

207

FLORISTS’ FLOWERS.

—_—

handsome leaves, and the curious | loam, and they strike readily ‘rom

manner in which these unroll when
the plants first appear in spring.
Some of the exotic ferns, also, are
very handsome, and hothouses have,
in many cases, been set entirely
apart for them. One of the most
interesting of these is at the seat of
W. Borrer, Esq., at Henfield, Sus-
sex; the interior of which is formed
into caves of freestone, in the crevices
between which the ferns grow. Ferns
disposed in this manner would form
a very elegant ornament for a grotto.
Exotic Ferns are also the best plants
for growing in the air-tight glass
plant-cases, now becoming so fash-
ionable in large drawing-rooms.—
See Prant-Cases.

Ferra‘ria.—Iridie.—Cape tube-
rous-rooted plants, with very curious
flowers, and requiring the usual cul-
ture of similar plants—See Cape
Buses.

Frverrew.—See Pyre‘THRuM.

Fica‘r1a.— Ranunculdcee.—The
lesser Celandine, or Pilewort. <A
British perennial, with bright yellow
flowers, differmg from those of the
common Crowfoot in their petals
being pointed. It likes a moist shady
situation, and will thrive under the
drip of trees.

Ficus exa’stica.—The Indian
Rubber tree. A kind of Fig-tree,
which yields the East Indian Ca-
outchouc ; that used principally in
making the water-proof clothing is,
however, from Brazil, and is produced
by Siphonia Cachtichu, one of the
Euphorbiacee. In both cases the
trunk of the tree is wounded, and
there flows from the wound a thick
milky juice, which, when hardened
by exposure to the air, becomes the
Indian rubber. F. eldstica is a fa-
vourite stove-shrub in England, from
its large size, and shining leathery
leaves ; but it very seldom produces
either fiowers or fruit ; and, when it

cuttings.

Fic Maricotp.—See Mesensry-
A/NTHEMUM.

Fiewort.—Scrophularia vernd-
lis—A British plant with yellow
flowers, growing in moist places.

Fi'Lices.—One of the natura or-
ders which includes all the different
genera of Ferns.

Fitness in a garden, as in every
thing else, is of the greatest impor-
tance in producing a good effect. By
this term is meant the adaptation of
plants to the situations fitting for
them: for example, tall straggling-
growing plants, which have a very
fine effect in a shrubbery when
backed by evergreen shrubs taller
than themselves, would entirely de-
stroy the beauty of a small garden,
laid out in regular beds. In the like
manner, small plants, however beau-
tiful they may be, are lost among
others more robust growing. To
avoid these imcongruities, the best
plan is first to ascertain, if possible,
the habit of growth and general
appearance of every plant before
introducing it into a flower-garden ;
and then carefully to consider the
situation in which it is likely to look
best. A little care and attention in
this respect, with common plants,
will have more effect in producing a
beautiful flower-garden, than large
sums laid out in the purchase of
showy plants without it.

Fiac-rtower, or Fleur-de-Luce.
—English names for the Iris.

Frax.—See Linum.

Fiorists’ FLowers are those
which it has been found may be
grown to an extraordinary size and
degree of perfection by taking great
pains with their culture. The Dutch
were the first who practised this art
with their Hyacinths and Tulips;
but their example has been followed
by the florists of other countries,

does, they have no beauty. The| who, as they cultivate their flowers
plants should be grown in sandy! in the hope of winning prizes with

FLOWER-BASKETS.

them at flower-shows, may be said
to use them as instruments for gam-
bling. All the varieties of florists’
flowers are named, and every year
many new kinds are raised, which
are eagerly sought for, and sell for
enormous prices.
ble that all florists’ flowers should
either hybridize freely, or vary very
much from seed. The principal
florists’ flowers are the Hyacinth,
the Tulip, the Dahlia, the Auricula,
the Polyanthus, the Carnation, and
the Pink; but to these may be
added the Ranunculus and the
Anemone, and, of late years, the
Geraniums or Pelargoniums, the
Heartseases, the Calceolarias, and
the Chrysanthemums. Of all the
kinds, the Dahlia is undoubtedly
that respecting which there is most
gambling and most rivalry. It
may be observed, that the rules by
which florists decide as to the merits
of their respective flowers do not
depend on any particular beauty of
colour, and sometimes not even on
form; but on certain arbitrary cri-
teria which they have settled among
themselves; as, for example, no
Auricula or Polyanthus is admired
that is what is called pin-eyed, that
is, if the style projects beyond the
stamens; and a perfect Dahlia
should not show any green in the
centre. ‘Thus as it requires to be
a florist to know the full meri: of
florists’ flowers, they are of conina-
ratively little interest to amateurs.

Fios Apvo‘nis.—See Apo'nis.

FLower Fence.—See Cazsatpi’-
NIA.

Fiower Baskets.—These may
pe constructed in many different
ways ; some being intended to ap-
pear as if set on the ground, and
others to be raised on pedestals.
The former are generally construct-
ed with curved pieces of iron, fur-
nished with sharp spikes for entering
the ground, like the prongs of a
fork ; and these are placed so as to

208

It is thus desira- |

FLOWER-BASKETS.

| form a circle, with wires for climb-
ing plants extended across it, like
| the handles of a basket. ‘The plants
must be trained up a wire frame in
the centre, and thence brought
| down the wires to the curved pieces
of iron forming the border of the
_basket. The basket may be filled
up with flowers or not, at pleasure.
Other receptacles for flowers may
| be wicker baskets, with the inter-
stices stuffed with moss; or the
jars in which grapes have been sent
over; but when these last are used,
or any other kind of vessel which is
very deep in proportion to its
breadth, the lower part should be
filled with brickbats, pieces of free-
stone, and other similar materials,
to within about a foot or six inches
of the top. In ail cases where

Fig. 19.—China Flower-Basket.

flowers are grown in baskets and
boxes, they should stand on a lawns
and the most luxuriant growing

%

FLOWER-GARDENS.

969

FLOW ER-GARDENS.

kinds should be chosen to hang | ought to be in some way or other so

down the sides of the vessel. Cap-
tain Mangles, whose taste in orna-
mental gardening is well known,
adopts the baskets figs. 19 and 20,
for suspending from the roof of his
greenhouse. ‘The baskets are made
of wire, with pots of earthenware
or china inside. These baskets are

Fig. 20.—Flower-Basket.

alike suitable for the creeping Ce-
reus, Moneywort, and other com-
mon plants which produce their
flowers on hanging stems, as for
Epiphytes and orchideous plants.
When the baskets are used for Epi-
phytes, the wire should generally be
filled with moss, instead of having a
pot placed in it.

FLower-GarDENs embrace a sub-
ject on which a volume might be
written without exhausting it; but
ihe present article will be confined
jo a few general observations, ap-
plicable in every case; and to a
short notice of the different kinds of
- fower-gardens which have been, or
are, in most general use.

All flower-gardens, to have a
good effect, ought to be symmetri-
eal; that is, they ought to have a
centre, which shall appear decided
and obvious at first sight, and sides ;
and all the figures or compartments
mto which the garden is laid out,

18*

connected with the centre as not to
be separable from it, without injur-
ing the general effect of the garden.
All the beds and borders ought to
have one general character of form
and outline; that is, either curved,
straight, or composite lines ought
to prevail. ‘The size of the beds
ought also never to differ tosuch an
exten*, as to give the idea of large
beds and small ones being mixed
together; and the surface of the
garden ought to be of the same
character throughout; that is, it
ought not to be curvilinear on one
side of the centre, and flat or an-
gular on the other. In the planting
flower-gardens the same attention
to unity ought to be kept in view.
One side ought not to be planted
with tall-growig plants, and the
other with plants of low growth; nor
one part with evergreens, whether
ligneous or herbaceous, and the
other part with annuals or bulbs.
Flower-gardens which are intended
to be ornamental all the year, ought
to have a large proportion of ever-
green herbaceous plants distributed
regularly all over them; such as
Pinks, Sweet Williams, Thrift, Saxi-
frages, and intermixed with very low
evergreen shrubs, such as Heaths,
Whortleberries, Thyme, Gaulth2ria
procumbens, and a variety of simi-
lar plants. Flower-gardens which
are intended to be chiefly ornamen-
tal in spring, ought to be rich in
bulbs and early-flowering shrubs ;
such as the Mezereon, Cydonia,
or Py‘rus japonica, Rhododéndron
datricum atrovirens, Erica herbd-
cea, G¢.; tnose that are intended
to be chiefly ornamental in summer,
should be rich in annuals; and
those that are to be in perfection in
autumn, in Dahlias. Flower-gar-
dens on a large seale never look so
well as when the spaces between
the beds are of turf; but those ona
small scale may have the spaces

FLOWER-GARDENS.

210

FLOWER-GARDENS.

between the beds of gravel, and the |
beds edged with box. It may be
thought by some, that a flowering
plant would look better than box
for the edgings to the beds ; but no |
effect is ever produced without con-
trast: and as the box is always
green, and never flowers, it forms a
striking contrast to beds of flowers
in which the leaves are nearly hid-
den by the blossoms. Gravel walks
with stone edgings do not form a
good contrast, as the colours of the
gravel and the stone are too near |
that of the dry soil of the beds.

All the different kinds of flower- |
gardens may be reduced to the fol- |
lowing :

The French garden, or parterre, |
is formed of arabesques, or scroll- |
work, or, as the French call it, em- |
broidery of Box, with plain spaces
of turf or gravel, the turf prevailing.
The Box is kept low, and there are
but very few parts of the arabesque
figures in which flowers or shrubs
can be introduced. Those plants |
that are used, are kept in regular
shape by cutting or clipping, and
little regard is had to flowers ; the
beauty of these gardens consisting
in the figures of the arabesques
being kept clear and distinct, and
in the pleasing effect produced on
the eye by masses of turf, in a
country where verdure is rare in
the summer season. These em-
broidered or arabesque gardens ori-
ginated in Italy and France, and
they are better adapted for warm
climates than for England: they
are, indeed, chiefly calculated for
being seen from the windows of the |
house, and not for being walked in, |
like English flower-gardens.

The ancient English flower-gar-
den is formed of beds, connected
together so as to form a regular or
symmetrical figure ; the beds being
edged with Box, or sometimes with
flowering plants, and planted with |
herbaceous flowers, Roses, and one |

shrubs.

or two other kinds of low flowering
The flowers in the beds
are generally mixed in such a man-
ner, that some may show blossoms
every month during summer, and
that some may retain their leaves
during winter. This kind of gar-
den should be surrounded by a bor-
der of evergreen and deciduous
shrubs, backed by low trees; and
in the centre there should be a sun-
dial, a vase, a statue, or a basin
and fountain.

The modern English flower-gar-
den has the groundwork of turf, on
which a system of beds are formed,
in such a manner as to constitute a
symmetrical figure; or, if on a very
large scale, groups of figures. The
French flower-garden and the an-
cient English garden were chiefly
calculated for bemg seen from an
elevated situation, so as to show the
whole at once; but the modern
English flower-garden is calculated
to be walked through, and seen by
degrees. The beds are generally
of roundish or curvilinear figures,
and they should never be of figures
with numerous narrow angles, or
projecting poimts; because such
parts can never be properly cover-
ed with plants, and therefore have
always a bad effect. These beds
are sometimes planted with a mix-
ture of flowers alone, and sometimes
with flowers and shrubs; but they
are more generally planted, each
bed with one kind of flower or one
kind of shrub, so as to produce
masses of colour, or of shades of

colour, which will harmonize with

the masses in the other beds. The _
spaces between the beds should not
be less than two feet, for the conve-
nience of walking and mowing ;
and the surface of the beds should
never be much higher than that of
the turf, because, if they are, they

will look like blotches on a lasr

Besides, the plants in the hiz- eet
part of the bed (which should: #

FLOW ER-GARDENS.

211

FLOWER-POTS.

the centre) will be drier than those
on the sides,—they will grow with
less vigour in dry seasons, and with
too much vigour in moist seasons,
if they are too much elevated ; so
that the plants in the garden will
never produce a uniform surface
throughout. Some beds in flower-
gardens of this description are en-
tirely filled with Roses, which are
often pegged down and kept low;
and other beds are filled with low
evergreen shrubs, or with deciduous
shrubs which have conspicuous
flowers, such as Rhododendrons,
Azaleas, &c. For every garden of
this kind there is, or ought to be, a
basin of water, as well for effect, as
for watering the plants; and if the
garden be on a large scale, there
may be statues, vases, open and
covered seats, rustic baskets con-
taining plants, rockwork, and a
variety of other objects; but these
require to be introduced with great
caution, and afford an excellent op-
portunity for a lady to exercise her

taste in their arrangement. In fact, |

these ornaments, if not well man-
aged, destroy the simplicity and

elegance of the garden, and do more |
harm than good. When flower- |
gardens are close to the house, and |

are intended to be very highly kept,
the beds are often surrounded with

a low frame-work of wire or trellis- |

work, so as to give them the effect
of baskets of flowers; and this has
sometimes a very good effect. Very
often handles of wire-work are ap-

pended to these baskets, over which |

are trained beautiful climbing plants,
_ such as the Maurandyas and Lo-
phospermums, which flower abun-
dantly during the whole summer.

The architectural flower-garden, |

or Italian garden, always adjoins

the house, and it is bordered and |

separated from the rest of the plea-
sure-grounds by an architectural
parapet or wall—see Fences. It
eonsists of beds symmetrically ar-

| tiles.

ranged, with gravel or pavement
between ; and the beds are border-
ed or edged with stone. In other
respects, these gardens are treated
like the old English flower-garden.

Terrace-gardens are merely arch-
itectural-gardens, formed on plat-
forms adjoining the house, on one
or more levels, each level being
supported by a terrace-wall; but
as they are chiefly adapted for
mansions and places of consider-
able extent, where of course a re-
gular gardener must be kept, it
does not appear necessary to en-
large on them here.

For the mode of designing and

laying out flower-gardens, see
PLANs.
FLowerinc Fern. — Osmiinda

regalis—A native of Britain, and
one of the largest and handsomest
of the British Ferns.

FLtowerine Raspserry.— Rubus
odoratus.

FLowerine Russ.—Bitomus um-
belldtus—A British aquatic plant,
producing pink flowers. When cul-
tivated, the seeds should be sown
'in loamy soil at the bottom of the
aquarium or pond where itis to grow,
or in a pot plunged to a considera-
ble depth ; or it may be increased
by dividing the root.

FLowWER-pors are commonly of
a red porous kind of earthenware,
which is much better for the plants
than the more ornamental kinds
sold in the china-shops: which
from being glazed, and consequently
not porous, are apt to retain the
moisture so as to be injurious to the
roots of the plants. When china
flower-pots are used, they should
have the bottom pierced with sev-
eral holes instead of one; and they
should be particularly well drained,
by being filled to, at least, a quarter
of their depth with pieces of broken
Glazed pots are most suita-
_ble for plants kept in balconies,

| where they are much exposed to

FLOWER-STANDS.

212

FORKING.

the air, as they do not admit of 'to suit the taste. Though elegant

transpiration from the sides, and
consequently the earth contained in
them does not so scon become dry.
There are ten sizes of pots in com-
mon use in British gardens, vary-
ing from two inches in diameter to

a foot and a half, which are distin- |

guished as sixties, forty-eights,
thirty-twos, &c., diminishing twelve
every time, from sixties up to the
largest size, which are called twos ;
the same quantity of clay, called a
cast, being used for the two large
pots as for the sixty small ones.
Besides these there are thumb-pots,
about an inch in diameter and two
inches deep, of which there are
eighty to a cast; square stone pots
for raising seeds, or striking cut-
tings, and which are seldom used
but by nurserymen; and deep nar-
row pots for bulbous-rooted plants.
Many other shapes have been in-
vented to suit particular purposes,
but the above are the only kinds in
constant and regular use.
FLoWER-sTANDs are generally con-
structed of wire, painted green ;
and they are so contrived as to hold
a number of flower-pots. They are
of various shapes ; some being only
large enough to hold two or three
flower-pots, and others, as fig. 24,

Fig. 21.—Wire Flower-Stand.
consisting of several tiers, and hold-

ing almost as many plants as a
small greenhouse. ‘l'hey vary very

objects in a garden or under a ve-
randa, they are not well adapted for
keeping plants in a healthy state ;
as, from the pots in them being ex-
posed to the sun and air on all sides,
the roots are liable to become with-
ered by the alterations in tempera-
ture. It is therefore generally ad-
visable to keep all the plants in
flower-stands in double pots, or to
fill the interstices between the pots
in the stand with moss. Generally
speaking, the observations already
given respecting plants in balco-
nies apply to plants kept on flower-
stands.

Fry HoneysuckLe.—The upright
shrubby species of Honeysuckle,
such as Lonicera xylosteum, the
common Fly Honeysuckle, and ZL.
tatarica, the Tartarian Honey-
suckle-—See Loni'cera.

Fy O'purys.—See O'purys.

Fontane'sta.—Oledcee@.—A shrub
or low tree, resembling in its gen-
eral appearance the common Privet,
but with handsomer flowers, which
are first whitish, but afterwards
become of a brownish yellow. It
is a native of Syria, where its leaves
remain on all the year; but in the
climates of London and Paris they
drop off in the course of the winter.
It will grow in any common garden
soil, and it is propagated by layers,
cuttings, and grafting on the Privet.

Forri’cuLa.—See Earwic.

Foreet-me-not.— Myosotis pa-_

histris.—A British plant worth cul-—

tivating for its blue flowers, as well
as for its name. It is a marsh
plant, and should be grown ne
water. M. sylvatica has smalle
flowers, and of a paler blue. The
other plants belonging to the genus
Myosotis are known by the popular
English names of Scorpion-grass
and Mouse-ear.

Forxinc. — A mode of stirring
the ground so as to admit air and

much in form, and may be designed ' moisture to the roots of plants, with-

FOUNTAINS. 913 FOUNTAINS.

out disturbing or injuring them, | the pipes it passes through, if the
which would be unavoidable if the | place from which the fountain is to
ground were dug. play should be far from the supply-
Foruerei'Lua. — Hamamelidee.| ing cistern. The time which tie
—American dwarf shrubs, with | fountain will play depends on the
large handsome leaves, and white | quantity of water which the cistern
fragrant flowers. The plants should | contains ; and the evenness and
be grown in a moist peaty soil, and | proportion of the ascending column
are injured by very severe frosts. ‘of water on the diameter of the
The flowers appear before the | conducting pipe, which should be
leaves. | five times the diameter of the ori-
Founrarns are of two kinds; jets, | fice. To explain this, we will sup-
which rise up in a single tube of) pose a cistern erected on a summer-
water to a great height, and then | house twenty feet high, and that a
fall in mist or vapour; and droop- | fountain is wished to play about a
ing fountains, which are forced up| hundred yards from it, in a right
through a pipe, terminated by a/line. Then if the diameter of the
kind of rose pierced with holes, | descending and conducting pipes be
called an adjutage, which makes | two inches and a half, and the dia-
the water assume some particular | meter of the orifice for the jet be
shape m descending. The prin-| half an inch, the water will rise
ciple on which fountains are con- | about eighteen feet high. It must
structed is, that if a large quantity | be observed, that the water will rise
of water be contained in a cistern, | to a less height in proportion to the
or other reservoir, in any elevated | distance which the fountain is from
situation, and pipes be contrived | the cistern, the loss by friction
from it to carry the water down to/| being about a foot for every hun-
the ground, and along its surface, |; dred yards; and also that if the
that the water will always attempt | pipes take any bend or curvature,
to rise to its own level the moment | the loss by friction becomes greater.
it can find a vent. When the ori-| The time that the fountain will
fice is large, this inclination is only | continue to play may be calcuiated
shown in a kind of bubbling up-| by estimating the quantity of water
wards, as the ascent of the water the cistern will contain, as a jet of
is prevented by the weight of the| the size above described will dis-
atmosphere above it; but, where | charge about sixty-five quarts a
the orifice is small, the column of; minute. The pipes should be of
water will force its way through | lead, a quarter of an inch thick;
_the air very nearly to the height ‘of /as if they are too slight they are
- the large body of water from which | very apt to burst and leak, from the
it descended. The height to which | great weight and pressure of the
a jet of water will ascend, therefore, | water; and they should be carried
gerne on the height which the | deep enough into the ground to be
istern that is to supply it is above | out of the reach of danger from frost.
the ground from which it is to as- | They should also be so ) contrived as
cend; and on the size of the orifice | to present a uniform slope towards
through which it is to issue. Some-| the point from which the jet is tc
thing must, however, be allowed issue; to prevent an accumulation
for the resistance which even a_/ of air, or of sediment from the wa-
slender column of water meets with | ter in the pipes, either of which will
from the air; and something is also | prevent the fountain from playing.
lost by the friction of the water on! Drooping fountains do not require

FRAMES.

ea

FRAMES.

the water to rise so high for them as
for jets; and consequently the cis-
tern need not be so much elevated.
The beauty of fountains of this
kind depends on the adjutages,

. . |
which are so contrived as to throw |

the water in many different forms.
For example, some are intended to
represent a dome, and others a con-
volvulus, a basket, a wheatsheaf,
and a variety of other devices.

The water from these fountains |

is generally received into a shell,
whence it forms a sort of miniature
cascade to the basin below.
Four-o’cLocKk-FLowEeR.—A_ kind
of Marvel of Peru. See Mira’zrus.
FoxGLove.—See Dicira‘xis.
Frames.—A frame in gardening
may be described as a bottomless
box with a cover of glass. The
glass is fixed in a sash of convenient
dimensions for being taken off, and
put on again at pleasure, and the
sides of the box are of sucha height
as to admit of the growth of plants
of a foot or more high. The back
of the frame or box is placed to-
wards the north, and is generally
about the height of two feet, and
the frame being right-angled, the
side towards the south is usually
about one foot or fourteen inches
in height. The ordinary width is
from five to seven feet, and the
length may be three or more times
the width, divided into sashes of
two and a half feet or three feet
broad. The frame may be either
set on a bed of the common soil of
the garden, in which case it is
merely used for the protection of
plants from the weather, or it may
be placed on a bed of fermenting
manure, or other materials that gen-
erate heat, for bringing forward
seeds or tender plants. Sometimes
frames are placed against steeply
sloping surfaces, or against walls;
in which cases the object is to bring
forward plants trained on the wall
or sloping surface. Frames are of

the greatest use in gardening, not
‘only for protecting plants that are
‘not quite so hardy as those usually
planted in the open air, especially
in the winter season, such as Al-
pines, and seedlings of hardy plants
-which are somewhat tender when
young, but for germinating seeds.
Frames on beds of dung are com-
monly called hotbeds, and are par-
ticularly useful for raising young
plants from seeds, striking cuttings,
and, in culinary gardening, for grow-
ing crops of such plants as Cucum-
bers, Melons, &c. As the air con-
fined within the frame is apt to be-
come suddenly heated by bright
sunshine, or by the fermenting ma-
' terial when the open air is temperate,
care must be taken to prevent the
heat from being at any time greater
than the plants will bear; and this
is effected by raising the sashes, or
lights as they are technically called,
by wooden wedges placed between
them and the frame, in the hinder
or higher part of the frame, so as
to admit of the escape. of the ex-
cessively heated air. Hence it-is
desirable in all frames, where much
delicacy of temperature requires to
be attended to, to keep a thermom
/eter within them; and in general,
when the temperature within rises
to 60°, to lift up the sash and to in-
troduce the wedge between it and
the back of the frame, so as to per-
mit the heated air to escape. Frames
are sometimes also set upon low |
brick walls, which may either be ~
raised above the soil, if it should
be naturally moist, or sunk into it,
if it should be naturally dry. .

such cases, instead of a box of

boards, the box may be said to be
formed of brick or stone, on the top
of which is placed a framing of
wood to receive the sashes. Such
frames, or brick pits, as they are
called, are used to preserve half-
hardy and greenhouse plants during
the winter. All frames that are

FRINGE-TREE.

used in winter or spring should be
covered during the night, especially

215

|

FROST.

FrititLa ria.— Tulipacee.—Hardy
bulbous-rooted plants, which will

when the weather is cold, to retain | thrive in any common garden soil ;
the heat generated by the sun, or | but which do best in sandy loam.

the fermenting material, during the | There are several species.

day. This covering is generally of
bast mats laid on the glass sashes ;
but it is rendered much more effec-
tive when the mats are kept an inch
or two apart from the sashes, so as
to retain between them a stratum
of air, which, from its non-conduct-
ing power, greatly lessens the es-
cape of heat through the mats. As
mats are apt to absorb the rain in-

stead of conducting it off, coverings |
of thatch formed of regularly drawn |
wheat-straw or reeds, are considered |

preferable ; though such roofings are
scarcely worth attending to in a
small garden, where there is perhaps
only oneframe. The best covering
of all is composed of boarded shut-
ters, placed a few inches distant

from the frame, and this species of |

shelter is at once neat and durable,
and calculated to retain a stratum
of air above the glass, while it effec-
tually throws off the rain.
Franco‘\s.—Francodcee, or Ga-
lactnee.—Handsome plants, most
of which may be treated either as
annuals or perennials, and may be
always raised from seed. They are
nearly hardy, and will grow in any
common ‘garden soil.
with white flowers, is generally kept
in the greenhouse, and will not ad-
mit of being treated as an annual.
Franke'nia.— Caryophyllacee.—
Sea-heath. Dwarf perennials, which

work, in a mixture of loam and peat,
and which are increased by seeds,
or cuttings.

Fraxine'Lua.—See Dicta’mnus.

FrencH Honeysuckie.—See He-
DY’SARUM.

Frenco Marigotp.—See Ta-
GE‘TES.

Frince-Tree.— See Cuiona'n-
THUS.

F. remosa, |

They
are increased by offsets ; and they
may remain several years in the
ground without taking up, and
without receiving any injury.

Fritittary.—See Friritia‘ria

Froesit.—Hydrocharis morsus-
réne.—A very graceful aquatic,
with white flowers.

Frost is injurious to plants in
proportion to their natural tender-
ness, and to their succulency, wheth-
er induced by art, by culture, or the
season, or the accidental or natural
moisture of the soil. Hence, to pro-
tect plants from frost, the first step
is the thorough drainage of the sub-
soil; and the next, the use of a soil
composed of: materials which will
readily permit the escape of water,
and which, of course, is always
comparatively dry. On such a soil,
if a frame covered with glass sashes
be placed, and covered with mats,
thatch, or boards during severe
nights, all half-hardy plants will be
completely protected. But there
are a great many plants in beds, and
borders, and against walls, which
cannot be conveniently protected by
these means ; and the roots or lower
parts of the stems of plants thus
situated may be covered with leaves,
straw, litter, rotten tan, or any other
dry non-conducting material which
will retain air, and consequently

| prevent the escape of heat, and yet
should be grown in pots, or on rock-

throw off water. In general, all
herbaceous plants may be entirely
covered during winter with such
kind of materials; and all ligneous
plants will besaved from being killed,
if the root-stock, neck, or collar, a
so covered. The branches and up-
per part of the stem, if left naked,
may indeed be destroyed ; but if the
collar and the ground for two or three
feet around it be thus protected, the

oe

FUCHSIA.

life of the plant will be preserved,
and the next spring, if the plant be
cut down to the ground, it will spring
up again from the collar. In general,
the easiest ligneous plants to protect

are those which throw up suckers ; |
and the most difficult, those which

shoot with difficulty from the root
or stool, such as the Pine and Fir
tribe. ‘The easiest plants to protect
are those which are planted against
walls ; because the branches can be
saved from the perpendicular cold
by a projecting coping, and the roots
by litter, leaves, rotten tan, &c.
What are called Alpine plants, which
in their native country are covered
during winter with snow, are best
protected by being kept in pots, and
placed in what is called a cold frame ;
that is, a box covered with glass,
placed on the common soil of the
garden, and consequently without
bottom heat, but covered in severe
weather with mats, thatch, or boards.
Planting herbaceous plants and low
shrubs in raised masses of soil cover-
ed with stone, technically< called
rock-work, is also a good means of

preserving plants which are not quite |
hardy ; because the mass of soil |

containing the roots is thus always
more or less dry. One of the
greatest enjoyments in gardening
nee in growing the plants of
warme

the open air; this, in the climate of

Britain, is not so much to be effected |

by communicating artificial heat in
the winter season, as by protecting
them from frost and moisture.
all gardening were reduced to the
mere growth of plants which were
quite hardy, the art would lose half
its interest. ‘The nice point in this,
as in many other cases, consists in
overcoming difficulties ; and the

pleasure will be great, in proportion |

as these difficulties appear at first
sight to be insurmountable.

Fo‘cusia. — Onagrdrie. — The |

Fuchsias being all natives of South

216

climates than our own in|}

It |

| FUCHSIA.
/ America, have till lately been gene-
rally treated as greenhouse plants,
but the greater number are now
considered to be among the more
‘ornamental of our hardy exotics.
They grow freely in the open air,
and enliven our flower-gardeng
during the whole of the summe1
with their beautiful crimson flowers ;
and though they die down to the
ground in winter, they spring up from
the root the following May, and dur-
ing summer flower profusely. They
grow freely in a mixture of vegetable
earth, or peat, sandy loam, and a
little well-rotted dung, which must
be kept moist, but by no means sod-
den. All the species strike freely
from cuttings of the young wood,
without bottom heat or bell glass ;
but they will do better with these
‘assistants; and if planted round the
, edges of pots, in a rather more sandy
soil than the mother-plants have
| been grown in, and plunged into a
slight hotbed, and shaded, they will
be fit to pot off in about a month or
six weeks. Seeds are frequently
ripened, and many very beautiful
varieties and hybrids have been
raised in this country. One of the
finest of these hybrids is F. Stand-
_ishit, raised between F. globdsa and
_F. fulgens, and figured in the Bo-
tanical Register for 1840. Seeds
vegetate freely if sown as soon as
they are ripened in a rather sandy
soil, on a little heat ; and unlike
most other perennial plants, they
will, if grown strongly, flower the |
first year. F. Chandlerii is a splen-
did kind, and was raised by Mr.
Chandler, of Vauxhall, from seed of
F. fulgens. The following ki
are the best for growing in the ope
air, F'. globosa, F. discolor, F. vir-
gata, F. microphy'lla with small —
flowers, and F’. gré@cilis ; which last,
though naturally a handsome shrub,
about four feet high, may be trained
to a single stem so as to form a small
| tree, in the following manner. The

: 2
ee

rucusia. 5 ———sQ17

FURZE.

first point is toselect a healthy young
plant that has a strong leader, and
taking it into»a forcing house, to
remove its lateral branches and
leaves to about half its height. The
plant must then be kept constantly
growing for two years, till it has
attained the required height ; during
which peried it must be frequently
shifted into larger and larger pots;
the lateral shoots and leaves must
be taken off as fast as they appear.
When the plant has acquired the
height of eight or ten feet, it may
be suffered to have a little rest ; that
is, it may be taken out of the hot-
house, and placed in a greenhouse,
when it will lose its leaves, and cease
growing; for it must be observed,
that while kept constantly growing
by heat and moisture in the hothouse,
it will retain its leaves during winter,
contrary to the usual habits of the
genus. The following spring, when
the plant begins to grow, the top
should be pinched off, when it will,
in the course of a few months, pro.
duce a beautiful head, covered with
flowers ; and in this state, if set in
the centre of a bed of Fuchsias on
a lawn, or in a flower-garden, it will
have a very pleasing effect. F.
fulgens is a tuberous-rocted species,
with herbaceous stems, which natu-
rally die off after the plant has pro-
duced its seeds. When this is the
case the root requires to be kept quite
iry till the following spring, when
st may be brought forward by putting
it into a hothouse or plunging it
into a hotbed. Young cuttings of
this species strike as freely as any
_of the other sorts ; but they require
care, as they are liable to damp off.
In some cases, a single leaf has
struck, the roots proceeding from
the thickened part at the base of the
petiole. F. arboréscens forms, in
its native country, a handsome low
tree; but in England it proves much
more tender than the other species,
and succeeds best in the stove, where

19

| it deserves a place on account of its

fine foliage, and its terminal heads
of lilach flowers. It grows very freely
from cuttings, which often attain the
height of five or six feet in one year.
F. discolor is a very hardy species,
a native of Port Famine, near the
Straits of Magellan, but it is not
very handsome, from the dingy co-
lour of its flowers. F’. coccinea is
interesting from having been the
first Fuchsia grown in England, and
the only one known in this country
for many years ; it having been in-
troduced in 1788 ; while the oldest
of the others (F. gracilis) was not
introduced till 1823. F. coccinea
should be kept in the greenhouse.
All the Fuchsias hybridize freely
with each other, and vary very
much from the seed, which most of.
the kinds ripen every year. The
fruit is a dark purple berry, which
when ripe is eatable. Among the
new Fuchsias may be mentioned,
F. corymbifolia, which is nearly
hardy; FF. eximia and F. radicans.
a creeping or climbing plant like the
Ivy, besides innumerable hybrids.
Foma‘ria.— Fumaridcee.—Pretty
little plants with curiously shaped
flowers, which grow best on calcare-
ous or sandy soils. The annual kinds
should be sown with other annuals in
March, April, or May ; and the peren-
nial species are increased by division
of the root. Some of the kinds are now
called Corydalis, and some Dielytra.
Fumitory.—See Fuma\ria.
Fu'nx1a. — Hemerocalliddcee. —
The Japan Day-lily. Bulbous-rooted
plants that were formerly consider-
ed to belong to the genus Hemero-
eallis. ‘They are natives of China
and Japan, and are grown in the
open airin England. F. cerilea is
quite hardy, and will grow anywhere,
but F. alba requires a warm dry bor-
der, as do the newly introduced spe-
cies. They are all very ornamental,
and some of them are fragrant.
Fourzr.—See U'iex.

WC)

%

GALAXIA. 218

with large yellow flowers. They
: should be planted in very sandy soil,
G. and either taken up, or kept dry by
covering with a hand-glass during
Ga‘cra.—Asphodeldcee.—Pretty | winter. When grown in pots, the
little European bulbous plants, gene- | soil should be heath-mould or very
rally with small dingy yellow flow- | sandy loam.
ers. They should be grown insandy| Gare‘ca—Legumindse.—-Goat’s
soil, and will not require taking up| Rue. Weedy-looking plants, with
in winter. The plants belonging to | small purple or white flowers, about
this genus were formerly considered | the size of the common vetch, and
to belong to Ornithogalum. Gdgea| bluish green leaves. They grow
litea or fascicularis is a British | freely in any common soil, but they
plant. ' require a great deal of room, from
Gattis rp1a.—-Composite.-—Very | their tall and bushy stems.
showy herbaceous plants, natives of | Gaxinso'cza. — Composite.— G.
America, some of which are an-|trilobdta is a well-known showy
nuals and others perennials. 'They | Mexican annual, with rich orange-
grow best in peat soil. G. Drum- | yellow flowers, which will grow in
mondi or picta, and G. pulchélla | any common soil, and may be sown
or bicolor, as it is called in the seed- |in March, April, or May. Like
shops, are annuals; and their seeds | so many other plants, Professor De
should be sown on a slight hotbed | Candolle has changed its name ;
in February or March; or in the | and it is now called Sagalgina tri-
open ground in the same months, | lobdta.
and covered with a hand-glass, or| Ga‘L1um.—Rubidcee._-Bedstraw.
flower-pot turned over them, to pre- | —Perennial and annual plants, some
serve them if the weather should | of which are aquatics, generally
be frosty when they come up. It)| with yellow or white flowers; na-
is necessary to sow the seeds of | tives of Europe, and several of them
these plants in February or March, | British weeds. They will grow in
as they are a long time before they ,; any common soil, but they prefer
come into flower. ‘The true G. | sand or peat.
bicolor is a perennial species, now Garpens, in floriculture, may be
called G. lanceolata, which should | described as separate scenes for the
be grown in a peat border, and kept | display of ornamental plants. The
moderately moist ; it is propagated | forms of these gardens or scenes
by seeds or division of the root

are different ; some being laid out in
5) Gaxa'xntuus—Amaryllidacee. — | beds, the prevailing forms of which
The Snowdrop. The common Brit- | are curvil. uear; and others in beds,
ish Snowdrop, G. nivalis, is well| of which che prevailing forms are
known both in its single and double | rectangular, such as squares, paral-
state; but G. plicanthus, the Rus- | lelograms, octagons, polygons, &c.
sian Snowdrop, which has smaller | In some gardens, the beds have the
flowers, is not so common. They | forms of particular styles of archi-
both require a light rich soil, and | tecture, such as of the Gothic, Gre-
they will thrive under the drip of | cian, Elizabethan, &c.; and these
trees. They are increased by off- | latter forms have given rise to what
sets. are called styles or manners in lay-
Gaua’x1a. — Iriddcee. — Dwarf | ing out gardens. Hence we have
bulbous-rooted plants, natives of the | gardens in the Gothic style, in
Cape of Good Hope, and generally | which the forms of Gothic archi-

GARDENIA.

tecture prevail, others in which the ! expensive, and it is generally best
Grecian forms prevail, and so on.|to contract with a nurseryman to
In all these styles the great art is to | keep the garden constantly in order,
adopt such forins as are favourable |

to the cultivation and display of
plants ; and for this purpose round-
ish beds, or such as have obtuse
angles, are preferable to long nar-
row beds, or such as have acute an-
gles; because the former are most
convenient for stirring the soil, and
the surface is more readily covered
with plants, without at the same
time causing the plants to spread
over the boundaries. Hence long
narrow beds are generally covered
to excess by the plants spreading
over the outline on the walks or
spaces between; and in acute-an-
gled forms the angles are not suf-
ficiently covered. —See Fiower-
GARDENS.

GarpENER.—To keep a flower-
garden in perfection, it is necessary
to have a good gardener, unless the
amateur understands how the va-
rious operations of gardening are to
be performed sufficiently well to be
able to direct an indifferent gar-
dener, or a common labourer, how
to execute them. The difference in
wages between a common gardener,
and a man who understands his
profession, is commonly about 201.
or 30/. a year; as an ordinary gar-
dener generally costs about 20s. or
25s. a week, without lodging, while
for 30s. a week, with lodging, a gar-
dener may be obtained who under-
stands the propagation and culture
of all ordinary plants, and how to
keep a garden in good order. ‘Thus,
those persons who wish to have a
show-garden, will find it the best
plan, if their grounds are large, to
employ a good gardener, and to
leave every thing to his direction,
(for a really good gardener will not
bear to be interfered with,) allowing
him to employ labourers as he may

and full of plants during the whole
summer. This plan is frequently
followed in the neighbourhood of
London ; and, as an example of the
expense, I may mention that Mr.
Hopgood, of the Bayswater Nurse-
ry, contracts to supply Captain
Mangles, whose house and garden
in Cambridge Terrace are so much
and so deservedly admired for their
show of flowers, for 7O0/. or 80I.
a-year, keeping the beds and boxes
full of plants and flowers from March
to November. This is by far the
most economical plan; for, as be-
fore observed, a first-rate flower-
gardener cannot be obtained under
701. or 80/. a-year. The great en-
joyment of gardening, however, in
my opinion, is only to be obtained
by the amateur who gardens him-
self, and who understands the prin-
ciples or reasons upon which each
operation is founded; and, there-
fore, I should recommend all per-
sons fond of gardening, and espe-
cially ladies who have sufiicient
leisure, to manage their gardens
themselves, with the assistance of a
man to perform the more laborious
operations. It sometimes happens

|that a man-servant in the family,

who is not over-burdened with in-
docr duties, will answer this pur-
pose ; but it is generally preferable
to employ a man who has been
brought up as a gardener.
GarpeE'nia. — Rubidcee. — The
Cape Jasmine, greenhouse and stove
shrubs, most of which are natives
of the East or West Indies, with
large and handsome flowers, which
are generally white. G. florida,
the com non Cape Jasmine, obtain-
ed its English name from its having
been first brought to England from
the Cape of Good Hope, where it

think proper; but if the grounds be | was found cultivated in a garden, it

small, this plan will be found too! being a native of China.

All the

GARRYA. 220

eA THERING SEEDS.

species should be grown in a com- | Gates are only necessary in
post of loam and peat; and they all | flower-gardens, where they are in<
require a moist heat. They are, closed by hedges, walls, or sunk or

propagated by cuttings of the young | wire-fences, and the gate ought

wood, struck in sand, under a glass,
and with bottom-heat.

Garvo‘quia. — Labiate.— Half-
shrubby dwarf plants, mostly na-
tives of South America and Mexi-
co; one species of which, G. Hook-
érii, commonly called the Scarlet
Thyme, which is a native of South
Carolina, is very handsome. It
should be grown in sandy peat and
loam, in well-drained pots; and the
plants should be plentifully sup-
plied with water while they are in
a growing state. It is nearly hardy,
only requiring protection from frost,
and it will continue flowering for
several months. By frequent. re-
potting, and careful management,
this plant may be greatly increased
both in size and beauty; and it looks
very well trained over a wire frame.
_ Garipe’Liua. — Ranunculacee.—

A very curious-looking hardy an-
nual, which will grow in any com-
mon garden soil; but which is sel-
dom now found except in botanic
gardens.

Garuic Frowrer.—See A‘iiium.

Ga’rrysa.— Garrydcee.—A hardy
evergreen, introduced only a few
years since, and which produced
its very handsome long pendulous
spikes of blossoms, or catkins, for
the first time in England, in Octo-
ber, 1834. ‘These spikes are pro-
duced in bunches of eight or ten
together; and they are frequently
above a foot long. It is quite hardy,
and should be grown in a loamy
soil, where it will continue flower-
ing all the winter, in defiance of the
cold. It is a most striking object,
not only from the great abundance
of its long, slender, graceful catkins,
but from its dark-green, glossy, and
leathery leaves. It is readily in-
creased by layers, or cuttings, struck
in sand under a glass.

always to bear some kind of rela-
tion to the fence. A wire or iron
fence may have a wire or iron gate,
but it should be always of the sim-
plest construction; a rustic fence
should have a rustic gate; and a
wall or a hedge commonly a close
gate, or a boarded gate with stone

or brick piers. Where a flower-

garden is surrounded by a sunk
fence composed of a sunk wall, and
a fosse or ditch, the gate.may in
some cases be of iron between stone
piers, and in others of light twisted
wire. In all cases of this kind, the
general harmony of the scene must
be taken as a guide; and care taken
that the gate neither appear too
conspicuous, nor too insignificant.
GATHERING FLowess for bouquets
or nosegays, should always be per-
formed when the plants are dry;
otherwise, when tied together in a
nosegay, the compressed leaves are
liable to rot. ‘The sprigs or shoots
containing the flowers, or in the
case of monocotyledonous plants,
such as the Narcissus, the Hya-
cinth, &c., the flower-stems should
always be taken off, so as not to
injure the leaves which remain on
the plant ; and in branching plants,
such as the Rose and all dicotyle-
donous herbaceous plants, the sprigs
should be cut off at the back of a
bud, otherwise in a short time an
unsightly naked portion of the stem
will remain on, which will at last
wither, and disfigure the living
plant. The branches should always
be cut off, and not broken; as it is
extremely difficult to break off a
branch without injuring the portion
that remains on the tree.
GaTHERING SEEps is an interest-
ing operation; because it carries
the mind forward to another year,
and another generation. It should

GEISSORHUIZA. e y

not be performed till the seed-pods |

are full grown, which is easily |

known by the tendency of some |

of them to burst. Itshould always
be done when the pods are perfectly
dry, and consequently after the
warmest part of the day, rather
than before it. ‘The pods, after be-
ing gathered, should be laid in a
pers or in saucers, and exposed to/

the air in a dry place, in the shade ; |

and after being thoroughly dried
they may either be tied up in pa-
pers tvithout being opened, or the
seeds taken out, the husks removed,
and the clean seeds tied up and pre-
served in a dry place.
GavuLrue'ris.—-Ericdcee—-Dwarf
hardy shrubs, natives of North Amer-
ica, with flowers like the Arbutus,

and berry-like fruit, which is good |

to eat. Both the species should be
grown in peat, or heath-mould ; they
are quite hardy, and will thrive un-
der the drip of trees.
propagated by layers.

roots may always be kept moist;
and it will grow well and produce
abundance of flowers and fruit in
the closest parts of London.

Gavu‘ra.— Onagracee. — Curious |
hardy annual and biennial flowers, |
natives of North America, nearly |
allied to Clarkia, and requiring only |
the usual culture of their respective |
kinds.—See ANNUALS and BIENNIALS.

Getssorui'za.—IJridicee.— Tile-

Root. Beautiful little bulbous plants, |

which were formerly considered to.
belong to Ixia. G. Rochedna, the
Plaid Ixia, is particularly beautiful ;

and the whole plant is not above six
inches high. ‘The bulbs are not
larger than a pea. All the species
are natives of the Cape, and require
a little protection during winter,
though more from heavy rains than

frost, if the bulbs are left in the |
If, however, |

ground at that season.

they have been planted on a dry

sandy bank, they may be left with-
19*

221

They are |
G. Shallon |
prefers a shady situation, where its |

GEOMETRIC GARDENS.

out any covering. All the species,
from their low stature and the bril-
liancy of their flowers, look exceed-
| ingly well in pots. In this case they
should be grown in sand and peat,
| or very sandy loam, and the pots
should be well drained with cinders.
| Grxse‘miom. — Apocy'nee. — A
pretty climbing evergreen shrub,
| generally kept in the areenhouse or
conservatory, and generally known
as Bignonia sempervirens, a native
of South Carolina. It is grown in
a compost of sand and peat, and it
is propagated by cuttings struck
under a glass.

Geni'sta.— Leguminose.— There
are above fifty distinct species of
Genista, most of which will live in
| the open air in British gardens, but
some of which are greenhouse shrubs.
They are all very handsome, from
the profusion of their bright yellow
pea-flowers. The greenhouse kinds
should be grown in peat and loam,
and are propagated by cuttings un-
der a glass, which should be taken
off frequently and wiped, or they
| will damp off.
| Gentian.—See Gentra\na.
| GeEnTIA\NA.—-Gentiandcee.—- Well-

known plants, generally with pretty

flowers, and tonic properties. G.

acatlis is frequently used as an

edging plant, and it is remarkable
for the brilliant colour of its flowers,
_which are large, and of a deep ma-
_zarine blue. All the Gentians re-
quire abundance of free air, and
will not grow well in the smoky at-
mosphere of a town. They should
_be grown in a light rich soil, and
_do best in a mixture of loam and
peat, enriched with a little vegetable
mould. G. acatilis does best in peat
alone. ‘The perennial kinds are in-
creased by dividing the root, and
the annual ones by seeds, which
should be sown as soon as ripe, as,
if left till spring, they will not come
up till the second year.

Geometric Garprns.—This style

GERANIUM.

et

222

GERANIUM.

of gardening is that in which the
shape of the ground, of the beds,
of the walks, and even of the shrubs,
is regular, or symmetrical ; such as |
may be formed on paper by a rule)
and compass. The ground, if origi-
nally flat, is reduced to a general
level surface, over which the beds, |
or borders, are distributed so as to |
form figures, either simply regular,
such as squares and parallelograms, |
repeated one after another—or |
squares and parallelograms, and
circles or ovals, or other curvilinear
figures,—so arranged as to be sym-
metrical; that is to say, that one-
half of the figure formed by the
whole shall correspond with the
other half. When the surface is
naturally irregular or on a slope, it
is thrown into different levels, which
are joined by steep slopes called
terraces, generally covered with
turf, and ascended and descended
by stone steps. Each of the levels
is laid out either regularly or sym-
metrically, in the same manner as
if the whole were only one bed;
but the figures are of course smaller.
Small] trees or evergreen shrubs are
distributed among the figures, and
especially on each side of the main
walks; and these trees or shrubs
ought, in strict accordance with the |
style, to be cut or chipped into regu-
lar shapes ; such as cones, pyramids,
balls, candelabra, statues of men
or animals, arcades, columns, or |
other architectural figures. In mod- |
ern practice, this is generally neg- |
lected; but its omission is a defect, |
for cut trees are as essential to the |
geometric style, as having the ground |
eut or shaped into artificial surfaces.
For the mode of cutting trees and |
shrubs into regular shapes, see 'To-
prary; and for laying out the beds |
so as to form a regular figure, see |
PARTERRE.
Gera'Nium.—-Geranidcee.—-There

are few plants more easily grown,
or that better repay the care of the

| largoniums.

cultivator, than Geraniums, or, as
they are more properly called, Pe-
All the half-shrubby
kinds require a light rich soil, com-
posed of well-rotted manure, leaf-
mould, sand, and a little loam, kept
moderately moist. A cool green-
house, where the ‘sashes can fre-
quently be thrown off, and a balco-
ny or window, not too much exposed
to the sun, are the best adapted for
them; and in such situations they
may be kept during the whole year,
only requiring, when in full flower,
to be slightly shaded from the sun,
to prolong the blossoming season.
Geraniums are readily propagated
at almost any season, by cuttings
of the points of the shoots, which
will strike readily in the same soil
as that in which the plant is grown,
without either a glass or bottom
heat. The nurserymen, however,
generally take their cuttings off
the poits of the shoots, and plant
them in the autumn round the
edges of pots filled with light rich
soil, and plunged into a moderate
hotbed.

When the cuttings are sufficiently
struck, which will be in about six
weeks, they may be potted into
singhe pots; or if there should not
be room in the greenhouse for so
many pots, they may be placed on
a tolerably dry shelf, near the glass,
till the following spring, w&en those
that are wanted may be potted, and
the rest reserved for planting out
in open ground, to bloom in the bor-
ders during the summer. Gerani-
ums, to make fine plants, and to
produce abundance of flowers, should

|be frequently repotted into larger

and larger pots, during March, April,
and May ; and, should the weather
be rather cold, or the plants back-
ward, a little fire put into the green-
house at might will have ‘a good
effect in promoting luxuriant growth
and the formation of blossoms. Im-
mediately after the plants have

2

GERANIUM.

flowered, they should be cut down
nearly to the ground, or they will
always present an etiolated un-
healthy appearance. By thus cut-
ting them down, abundance of fine
young shoots will be produced by
the autumn, which shouid be thin-
ned out, and those taken out used
as cuttings. In this manner, good
bushy plants are insured, and plenty
of young plants provided for the
next year. Many hundreds of beau-
tiful varieties of Geraniums have
been raised from seed: the more re-
markable are cross-breeds ; that is,
those raised from a plant the stigma
of which has been fecundated by
pollen from the anthers of another
variety of the same species. In
. this respect, cross-breeds differ from
hybrids, which are raised from seed
fecundated from a plant of a differ.
ent genus, or, at any rate, a very
different species. ‘The use of cross-
breeding is thus rather to improve
plants, by crossing them with others
having a better habit of growth, or
more brilliant coloured flowers, than
to raise new and striking varieties ;
and, for this purpose, the plants
chosen for the parents should be
such as would be greatly improved
by admixture with another. For
example, a fine bright coloured
flower, on a plant of a loose and bad
habit of growth, might be crossed
by a plant of a dwarf habit, the
flowers of which were not beautiful,
and so on. The plant that is in-
tended to bear the seed should be
carefully watched, and just before
the pollen bursts, the stamens should
be cut off. The operator must then
wait till the stigma becomes cover-
ed with moisture exuding from it;
and then, but not before, the pollen
from the other plant must be ap-
plied with the point of a penknife,

2

~

3

GERANIUM.

may be collected and kept in paper,
till the stigma is ready to receive
it. In some cases pollen has been
kept good in this manner for two
years; but the moisture of the
stigma should be taken advantage
of as soon as it appears, as it soon
dries up, and cannot be restored
artificially. ‘The best time for per-
forming the operation seems to be
about the middle of a bright sunny
day; and, as soon as it is done,a
bit of string, or a strand of bast-
mat, should be tied round the stem
of the flower, that the seed-pod
may be known. As soon as the
seeds are ripe, they should be sown
immediately in shallow pans of light
sandy soil, and set on a greenhouse
shelf, where they may be suffered
to remain during the winter. Many
of the young plants will come up
by spring, when they should be im-
mediately potted off into single pots,
and treated as before recommended
for cuttings.

The following mode of grafting
Geraniums is abridged from the
« Floricultural Magazine? for May,
1840. The stocks should be of the
strongest and healthiest kinds,
about two or three years old, and
rendered bushy by frequent trans-
planting, and pinching off the lead-
ing shoots. The year before they
are wanted as stocks, they should
be cut down in August to within
three eyes (or buds) of the base of
each shoot. In the following May
the stocks should be transplanted
into fresh pots, a size larger than
their old ones; and, early in June.
they should be “ cut down to a clear
grown part of the shoot, about twe
inches from the last year’s wood.”
The stock should then be left twa
or three days to bleed, that is, to
suffer the exuberant sap to escape ;

or the hairs of a camel’s hair pencil. | after which it may be grafted in
Should the cells of the anthers of the | the whip or side manner, without a

one plant burst before the stigma of

tongue; care being taken to choose

the other becomes moist, the pollen | ‘* well-ripened shoots, about three

GESNERIA.
inches long, for scions.” ‘The prin-
cipal difficulty arises from the suc-
culent nature of the Geranium
shoots; as, if the bark be bruised
or wounded during the operation,
the grafts will not take; and they
are also very easily broken off after-
wards.

The herbaceous and_tuberous- |
rooted Geraniums require a much |

m@qre sandy soil; and, when they
have done flewering, they should
be put on a dry shelf, near the glass,

and very sparingly watered till the |

spring, when they may be repotted,
and treated as above. These may
be propagated by cuttings, or divi-
sion of the roots, in rather dry and
sandy soil, and they rarely perfect
their seeds in our greenhouses.

The old genus Geranium has

been divided by modern botanists |

into fifteen genera; three of which

already mentioned under the head
of Erodium. The kinds usually
grown in greenhouses belong to the
genus Pelargonium; and of these

where are nearly six hundred distinct |

species, besides innumerable cross-
sreeds, hybrids, and varieties.
GERMANDER.—See T'Ev‘crium.

224

|
|

GLADIOLUS.

require a light rich soil, and are
propagated by cuttings struck in

sand under a bell-glass, with the aid
_of bottom-heat.

Ge'um. — Rosdcee. — Avens, or
Herb Bennet. Perennial plants,
natives of Europe and America,
with very handsome flowers. G.
Quellyon, Swt. (G. coccineum, Bot.
Reg.), is a splendid plant, a native
of Chili, with large orange-scarlet
flowers. All the species are hardy,
and require a light rich soil; they
are propagated by seeds, or dividing
the roots Some of the species are
now called Sieversia ; the seed-ves-
sels of Geum being hooked, and
those of Sieversia ending in a
straight feathery point.

G1'L14.— Polemoniécee.—Beanti-
ful annual flowers, natives of Cali-
fornia, which only require sowing in

| spring or autumn in the open border.
are quite distinct, and have been |

See CaLrrorniIAN ANNUALS, and AN-
NUALS.

Girua‘co.— Silendcee, or Caryo-
phyllacee—The Corn Cockle. A
British weed, sometimes cultivated
in flower-gardens.

GLADES are open spaces of turf
among shrubs or trees, of irregular
shapes, without definite boundaries,

Grropo'con.— Compésite.— Old | so as to give the idea of something
Man’s Beard. There is only one | beyond them, of which the extent

species of this genus, G. glaber, a
native of Italy, and which is a very
curious plant. It is an annual,
having a smooth stem and leaves,

and growing about a foot high. The |
flowers are flesh-coloured, and ex- |

pand in the form of a star only
when the sun shines upon them.
The seeds are very curious, and it
is from them that the plant takes
its English name. They should be
sown in the open border, in any
common soi], in March or April,
and the plants will flower in July
and August.

Gesne‘riA, or Ge'sNeRA.— Gesne- |

ridcee.— Showy hothouse plants, | of the Cape of Good Hope.

cannot be guessed. They should
vary in width, and be of the most
irregular shapes; the types being
the open glades which appear in
forest or copsewood scenery. Their
beauty in pleasure-grounds depends
much on the smoothness or high-
keeping of the turf, and on the va~-
ried ground outline of the branches
of the trees or shrubs which repose
on it.

Guapro ius. — Iriddcea. — The
Corn Flag. The Gladioli or Corn
Flags are bulbous plants, with long
spikes of showy bell-shaped flow-
ers; and they are nearly all natives

The

generally with scarlet flowers. They | bulbs, or rather corms, are sclid,

GLASS CASES. 995

GLASTONBURY THORN.

and do not require taking up if they
can be kept dry during winter. The
best mode of doing this is by fixing
a frame with sashes over them, as
this allows of giving them air when
fine. When grown in pots, the soil
should be very sandy loam, enrich-
ed with decayed leaves, and the
bulbs should be kept entirely with-
out water, from the time the leaves
decay in autumn, till they begin to
grow the following spring. Many
cultivators take the bulbs out of
their pots every September, and re-
new the soil; but others only take
them up every third year. At Spof-
forth, Yorkshire, where the soil is a
rich yellow loam, there are clumps
of Gladioli, which have been left
undisturbed in the open ground for
more than twenty years, and which
flower magnificently every summer.
The only protectien given, is cover-
ing the clump in autumn two or
three inches thick with dry leaves,
which are swept up from the neigh-
bouring shrubbery, formed into a
heap, rising highest in the centre,
and sloping down on every side.
Similar treatment is given to beds
of Scarlet Gladioli in the garden at
Blair Adam in Scotland, which are
the most splendid flower-beds I have
ever seen.

Guass Cases are of two kinds,
those which are intended to cover
plants in the open air, and those

which are used for covering plants |

in rooms, or on the outside of win-
dows, balconies, &c. Glass cases
for the open air may be made of

any convenient size or form, so as |

to cover the plants to be protected ;
and sometimes they are glazed on
every side, though at others they
are placed against a wall, and only
glazed in front and at the ends.
The frame-work may be of wood,
or of iron or zinc, so contrived as to
separate into pieces, and join to-

gether in any temporary manner, |

in order that the gardener may be

able to admit air, or to remove the
case entirely, at pleasure. A com-
mon hand-glass may be designated
the smallest description of glass
cases, and a portable greenhouse
the largest. Glass cases for rooms
consist of two parts, a body or box,
contaiming the mould and plants,
and a hand-glass, or glazed case,
for placing over it. This case,
which may be square or oblong,
two feet wide and fgur or five feet
long, should fit into a groove in the
box containing the plants; and the
plants, when planted and watered,
will require no more attention for
several weeks, or even months, ac-
cording to the kind intended to be
grown. Hyacinths planted in such
a case in November, and placed in
a room, will require no attention,
except perhaps a little water, till
they have done flowering in the
following March. Ferns and Cacti
will require no attention for a year ;
but plants which come soon into
flower, such as China Roses, or in-
deed any plants which are coming
into flower when planted, require to
be removed when they have done
flowering, and to be replaced by
others. The glazed frames for such
eases should be of mahogany or
metal, and of neat and accurate
workmanship; and plate or Ger-
man glass ought to be employed.
Excellent plans for such cases will
be found in the Gardeners’ Maga-
zine for 1839 and 1840.
Guastonsury THorn.—A variety
of the common MHawihorn, that
blossoms about Christmas. The
legend is, that Joseph of Arimathea
having struck his staff into the
ground to indicate where Glaston-
bury Abbey was to be built, prayed,
that if he had fixed on the right
place, the Holy Virgin would give
him a sign of her approval, when
instantly the staff (which was a
branch of hawthorn) struck root,
and shot forth leaves, flowers, and

GLORIOSA.

fruit. The original tree of this va- |
riety grows near Glastonbury ; but |
plants. grafted from it, are common |
in all the nurseries.

Guavu'cium.—Papaverdcee.—-The
Horned Poppy. A British plant,
common on the shore between
Brighton and Shoreham, with glau-
cous or bluish green leaves, and |
large yellow flowers. The pods are
long and horn-like, whence the Eng-
lish name. The species are an-
nuals or biennials, and should be
grown in a chalky or calcareous soil.
The seeds are common in all the
seed-shops.

Guiecuo'Ma. — Labidte. — The
Ground Ivy. ‘There are two spe-
cies ; one with blue flowers, which
is a British weed; and the other,
the flowers of which are pink, which
is a native of Hungary. They will
both grow in any common soil; |
and, being perennials, are increased |
by division of the roots.

Giose AmarantH.—See Gom-
* PHRE NA.

Grose FLlower.—See Tro’iiivs.

Grose TuistLe.—See Ecui‘nors.

GurosuLa ria. — Globuldrine. —
The Blue Daisy. Perennial and
suffruticose plants, with round heads
of blue fiowers, most of which re-
quire a greenhouse in England.
All the species grow freely in a}
mixture of loam and peat, and are
propagated by cuttings under a
glass.

Giorio'sa.— Tulipacee.—G. su-
perba is a magnificent plant, which
deserves cultivation in every hot-
house. It is propagated by seeds,
which ripen freely; or by dividing
the reots, which, after the division,
which should be in January or Feb-
ruary, should be potted in rather |
small but deep pots, and plunged
into a bark-bed, where they should |
have very little water till they be- |

226

GLYCINE.

growing, they should be abundantly

supphed with water. The stems
will require to be supported by a
stake or trellis; and, if allowed suf-

ficient heat and moisture, they will

grow rapidly, and flower beautifully.
When the stalks die down, the pots

| containing the roots should be re-

moved to a dry stove, where they
should be kept entirely without
water till January or February,
when the roots should be divided
and repotted. The soil should be
composed of one fourth of peat, one
fourth of leaf mould, and two-fourths
of loam.

Guiory-peA.—See Cuia/NTHUS.

GuiossoLocy.— A knowledge of
the technical terms of botany.

Guoxi'n1a.—Gesneridcee.—Very
handsome plants, with bell-shaped
flowers, that require the heat of a
stove ; hybrids have, however, been
lately raised between this genus and
Sinningia, which prove much har-
dier than their parents. ‘The com-
monest kinds of Gloxinia are G.
maculata, which is apt to become
so weak from the great number of
its suckers, that unless they are re-
moved as soon as they appear, it will
seldom flower; and G. speciosa,
which flowers abundantly. ‘The
former species is propagated by divi-
sion of the root, and the !atter by

cuttings, which strike so freely

without a glass, that even a leaf
taken off with the base of the petiole
entire, will take root, and make a
handsome plant. Ail the species
should be grown in a compost of
ioam, peat, and sand, or in very

/sandy loam and vegetable mould ;

and, when beginning to grow, the
plants should be well supplied with
heat and moisture. The pots should,
indeed, stand in a saucer kept half
full of water.

Guy'cine.— Legumindse-Climb.

gin to grow. In March or April ing, tender plants, with pea-flowers
the plants should be removed to, The Linnean genus Gly'cine has
larger pots; and, while they are: been divided by modern botanists

GLYCINE.

227

GNAPHALIUM.

into eleven genera, the best known
of which is Wistaria. Wrstdria

Consequana, chinénsis, or sinénsis, |

sometimes called by its old name of
Gily'cine sinénsis, is one of the most
valuable climbing trees that will
grow in the open air in Britain.
This tree, which, though now so
common, was only introduced in
1816 or 1818, is a native of China,
and appears to be quite hardy in the
neighbourhood of London. Its large
bunches of beautiful shaded lilach
flowers, which are fragrant, are
exactly like those of the common
laburnum, except in colour; and
they are produced most abundantly,
the tree, in favourable situations,
often bearing a second crop.

The Wistdria sinénsis will grow
in any common garden soil ; but it
does best when the soil is light and
rich, and the plants are abundantly
supplied with water. It is often
several years before it flowers, as it
takes a long time to establish itself;
but the period of its flowering may
be hastened by watering it regularly
with liquid manure, or by telling the
housemaid to empty the slops and
soap-suds on the ground near it—
taking care to pour the liquid on the
ground at a distance from the stem
of the plant, as it would injure the
collar if poured on it. All watering
is, indeed, most effectual when it is
given at some distance from the
stem of the plant, as it is only the
spongioles at the extreme points of
the roots that can take up the
moisture so as to be of any service;
and water, if poured on any other
part that is under ground, is in
danger of rotting both the epidermis
and the cellular tissue. When
once established, the Wistaria grows
vigorously, and the plant in the
Horticultural Society’s garden at
rie Green being checked in
its height by that of the wall against
which it grows being only eleven
feet, has spread so far on each side,

as to cover a space of above three
hundred feet in extent. It is easily
propagated by layers, as the shoots,
if laid down, will throw out roots
at every joint. It may also be
propagated by cuttings of the roots
and branches, and even by leaves,
which will take root if planted in
sand and peat, and covered with a
glass, provided care has been taken
to break the petiole off the branch
without wounding the protuberance
at its base. Seeds of this plant are
very rarely ripened in England ; but
when they are, they vegetate as
readily as those of the common
laburnum. The plant requires a
wall or trellis-work to support it:
but any aspect will do. Mr, Pam-
plin, of the Lavender Hill Nursery,
has a plant which is trained against
three sides of his house, viz. the
north, the east, and the south ; and
the only difference he perceives is,
that the flowers on the south wall
expand first, but are the weakest
and palest, and that those on the
north, though they are the latest,
are the darkest and most vigorous.
The Wistdria sinénsis, though so
beautiful, is by no means dear, as
a plant costs from ls. 6d. to 2s. 6d.
in the nurseries, according to its
size—a plant of the latter size being
the largest that can be transplanted
with safety. There is said to be
a scarlet variety, but I have never
seen it.

Grycyrrulza.— Legumindse.—
The Liquorice. A perennial plant
with small pale blue flowers, a na-
tive of the south of Europe. The
liquorice is made by boiling the
root (which resembles that of the
ginger in appearance) a long time,
and letting the moisture evaporate
from the sediment. The plant is
not worth cultivating except from
curiosity ; but when it is grown, it
requires a very rich mould.

Gnapua‘tium. — Compésite. —
Cudweed. This genus now in-

GODETIA.

GOMPHRENA.

cludes only about half the number |
of species that it formerly did, six |

er seven new genera haying been
formed out of it. The British spe-
cies are cottony-looking weeds, and
very few, if any, of the foreign
kinds are worth cultivating. The
French Immortelle, of which such
quantities are sold near the Ceme-
tery of Pére la Chaise, and which
used to be called Gnaphdlium
orientale, is now removed to the
genus Helichrysum.—See Hent-
CHRY'SUM.

Gni'p1a. — Thymelicee.— Very
preity greenhouse plants, which are
rather difficult to cultivate, from the
great delicacy of their roots. They
should be grown in a mixture of
sand and peat, or in what is called
heath-mould ; and they should never
be suffered either to flag for want of
water, or to stand in saucers full of
it. All the species are rather diffi-
cult to propagate ; but the best way
is to take off the tips of the shoots
when quite young, and to plant
them in pure sand under a bell-glass.

Goat’s Brarp.—See Tracopo'-
GON.

Goat’s Ruge.—See Gatre'ca.

Goat’s Tuxorn. — Astragalus
Tragacantha.
Gope‘T1a. — Onagracee. — The

purple-flowered kinds of Ginothera,
or Evening Primrose, have been
divided from the others and formed
into a genus, under the name Go-
detia, by Professor Spach, a German
botanist, residing in Paris. Professor
Spach formed thirteen other genera
out of (nothera, but only this one
appears to have been generally
adopted. The handsomest species
of Godetia are G. rubicunda, G.
vindsa, and G. lépida, all natives
of California, introduced in 1835,
and all of which may be sown in
September, like the other Californian
annuals. See Annuats. The other
kinds are also all hardy annuals,
‘which require no other care than

sowing in March or April in the
open border, in any common garden
soil, and thinning out when they
_come up, if they appear too thick.
All the Godetias are rather tall-
growing plants, and, if not thinned
out, they will become drawn up and
eticlated. If the plants appear
weak, they should be tied to slender
stakes. ‘They bear transplanting
well. ‘The colours are most brilliant
| when grown in a poor soil; but the
| plants are smaller and less vigorous.
A rich soil makes them produce
more leaves than flowers.
GoLpEN Rop.—See Sorrpa‘eo.
Gotpen SaxirraGe.—See Cury-
SOSPLE‘NIUM.
GoLpEN TuistTLeE. — Scolymus
grandiflora.
Goupru'ssta. — Acanthdcee.— A

new name given by Professor Nees
Von Esenbeck to Ruéliia aniso-
pay lla.

Go.pyLocks. — Raniineulus au-
ricomus.

GomrxoLo'zium.—Leguminose.—
Australian shrubs, which require
to be kept in a greenhouse in Eng-
land, and to be grown in very light
loam, peat, and sand. All the spe-
cies are very difficult to preserve ;
and they are all very tender, deli-
cate plants. They require to be
trained to a frame; and they are
easily killed, either by too much or
too little water. ‘They are propa-
gated by seeds, which ripen fre-
quently ; or by cuttings of the young
wood, which must be struck in
sand, under a bell-glass.

Gompure'NA.—Amaranthacee.— =}
The Globe Amaranth. This is sup-
posed to be the Amaranth of the
poets, which, from the durability of
its flowers, was considered to be
the emblem of immortality. It
seems to have been used at funerals
in the time of Homer, e de-
scribes it as worn by the Thessalians
at the funeral of Achilles, and it is
| still used for the same purpose in

— eee

GORDONIA. 929

various parts of the Continent. The
plant is a tender annual, which
should be raised on a hotbed or in
a stove, and which, even when in
flower, should be kept in the green-
house. It should be grown in a
light rich soil, and kept rather dry.
Sometimes it is propagated by cut-
tings, struck in mould under a hand-
glass; and plants raised in this
manner are generally much hardier
than those from seeds.

Goneo'ra.— Orchiddcee.— Curi-
ous epiphytal plants, natives of the
tropics, which require the usual
treatment of orchideous plants, and
are generally grown in a moist
stove, or orchideous house, in bas-
kets of moss, or on a piece of wood
hung up to the rafters. Sometimes
they are grown in pots, in peat and
sand, mixed with pieces of broken
stone or limerubbish. The flowers
hang down from the root, and re-
quire to be shaded from the direct
rays of the sun. ‘They are increas-
ed by division of the root; and
when grown in pots the pots should
be half filled with potsherds.

Gono’Lonus.— Asclepiadécee. —
Climbing plants, with dark red flow-
ers, which require the heat of a
stove. ‘They should be grown ina
mixture of loam and peat; and they
may be increased by cuttings. The
flowers are more curious than beau-
tiful.

Gorpo\nia.— Ternstremidcee.—
The Loblolly Bay. ‘This plant,
though in its native country, the
swamps of North America, it be-
comes a tree fifty or sixty feet high,
is in England rarely more than a
sub-evergreen bush, the height of
which seldom exceeds five or six
feet. It is nearly allied to the
Camellia, and it has large, white,
sweet-scented flowers, and hand-
some leaves. It should be grown
in peat earth, kept moist, in a low
sheltered situation; but it is quite
hardy, and will grow in any soil

GRAFTING.

or situation, flowering abundantly
| When of very small size. It is gen-
erally propagated by layers; but
when seeds are imported, they should
be sown on wet moss, as they are
said only to germinate well on that
substance.
| Gossypium. — Malvicee.— The
Cotton Tree. These plants, most
of which are natives of the East
Indies, require a stove in England.
The flowers are large and hand-
some, resembling those of the Mal-
low, and the seeds are enveloped in
a soft, white, woolly substance,
which is the cotton. This substance
is often produced in England. All
the cotton plants are herbaceous,
and most of them are biennials;
and they all require a rich moist
soil, and abundance of heat. They
are propagated by seeds and cut-
tings.

Graso'wsk1.— Solandcee.— The
new name for Ly'cium Boerhavie-
folium.

Grartine is the art of taking a
shoot from one plant and uniting
it to another, in such a manner as

that it shall grow and thrive as well
as if it were planted in the ground.
A grafied plant consists of two
parts ; the stock, which must have
a root, and the scion, which is uni-
ted to the stock by the operation of
grafting. The scion is commonly
a shoot of the preceding year’s
growth ; but, in some cases, it may
be a shoot of the same year’s growth,
or it may be of the growth of two
or more years. ‘The stock should
be a well-rooted plant, fixed in the

soil, with a stem of at least as great
a diameter as that of the scion, but
the stem may be much larger, and
of several years’ growth. Grafting’
is commonly limited to woody
plants, and it is only within certain
hmits that it can be performed.
To be united together by grafting,
it is necessary that the plants be of
the same nature ; and, generally

GRAFTING.

230

GRAFTING.

that they be of the same genus, or |

family ; though, in some cases, all
the genera of a tribe will graft on
one another. ‘Thus, any kind of
Camellia may be grafted on any
other kind of Camellia or Tea Tree,
but not on any other genus; while
any kind of Pyrus may not only be
grafted on any other kind of Pyrus,
but also on Crategus, Mespilus,
Sorbus, Cydonia, and perhaps sev-
eral others.

The primary cause is probably
to be found in the organization of
the respective tissues of the plants,
those uniting which are alike; but
as this can- only be determined by
microscopic observation, and only
then by the most acute vegetable
anatomists, the safe rule in practice
is to limit our attempts at grafting
to species of the same genus.

The uses of grafting are various.
By grafting a weak growing species
or variety on a strong growing kind,
the weak growing variety becomes
more vigorous; and consequently,
a large and handsome plant is much
sooner produced than could be done
by layers, cuttings, or seeds. On
the contrary, by grafting a strong
growing plant on a weak, low, or
slow-growing stock, dwarf plants
are produced, and thus specimens
of large trees may be obtained with-
in a very limited space. Plants
may be propagated by grafting that
cannot be increased readily by any
other mode; as is the case with
common fruit trees. ‘The shoots of
seedling plants grafted on a stock
of several years’ growth, will sooner
produce blossoms and fruit than
when left to grow on their own
roots.

There are various kinds of graft-
ing; but they are all founded on
this essential condition, viz. that
the inner bark of the scton should
be closely united to the inner bark
of the stock. Where the scion and
the stock are of the same thickness,

this may be done at both edges;
but where the stock is thicker than
the scion, it can only be done at
one edge, which, however, is found
sufficient. The kinds of grafting
best adapted for ladies, are the com-
mon splice, or whip-grafting ; slit,
or cleft-grafting ; side-grafting, and
inarching.

Fig. 23.—Whip, or Splice-Grafting.

Whip, or Splice-grafting, is rep-
resented in the cut 23, im which a
is the scion, and 6 the stock. In
this case both scion and stock are
of the same thickness ; both are cut
slanting, so as exactly to fit; and
there is a dovetail notch in the stock
for the scion to rest on. When the
scion has been perfectly fitted to the
stock, it is tied with a strand of mat-
ting, as shown in the figure, and af-
terwards covered with grafting-wax,
or grafting-clay, the modes of mak-
ing which will be given afterwards.
There are different variations of the
mode of grafting. Sometimes the
dovetail notch is omitted, and at
others a tongue is formed in the
scion, and a slit made in the stock,
into which it is mserted ; this tongue
serving the purpose of the dovetail

GRAFTING.

notch, viz. to keep the scion in its
place. When the stock is of much
larger diameter than the scion, the
appearance of this graft is, of course,
quite different, and the latter is put
on at one side, in order that its in-
ner bark may be closely united with
that of the stock. This is the com-
mon mode of grafting fruit-trees in
the nurseries.

Fig. 24.—Grafiing the Cacti.

Slit, or Cleft-grafting, is per-
formed by first cutting over the
stock, and next making a slit or
cleft in it; then paring the scion
on both sides, so as to form a wedge,
narrower at the inner edge; and,
after inserting it in the cleft, tying
it and claying it as before. This
mode is well adapted for grafting
one succulent plant on another ; as,
for example, in the Cacti tribe,
grafting an Epiphyllum on a Peres-
kia, as shown in fig. 24, or for
grafting ligneous Peonies on the
tubers of herbaceous ones, as shown
in figs. 25 and 26. In fig. 25, a
is the stock already notched; and,
in fig. 26, 6 is the prepared scion,
and ¢ the grafted plant.

Side-grafting is shown in figs.
27 and 29, in which f is the stock,
from which a portion is cut out,
against which the scion e, also
somewhat thinned down, is to be
applied and made fast, as Shown in
fig. 29 at g. This being done, the
graft is covered with grafting-wax
or clay, as usual. It will be ob-

231

GRAFTING.

——

Fig. 26.—Grafting the Peony.

served, that by this mode the head
of the stock is not cut off, but is
left on, in order to draw up the sap,
and also to prevent the stock from
being disfigured in the event of the
death of the scion. There is an-
other mode of side-grafting, as
shown in fig. 30, in which it will
be observed, that the lower end of

GRAFTING.

232

GRAFTING.

Fig. 27.—Stock and Scion prepared for Side
Grafting.

Fig. 28.—Cleft-Grafting the Camellia.

the scion is inserted in a bottle of

water, to supply it with moisture ;

a practice which, though not abso-
lutely necessary, is found advanta-
geous. In another kind of side-
grafting, the head of the stock is
cut off, and the scion and the stock
are cut, as shown in fig. 27. For-
merly, Camellias were very {fre-
guently grafted in this manner

A new mode of grafting the Ca-
mellia is shown in fig. 28. The
head of the stock is cut off, and
only a single leaf left; a cleft is
then made in the stock, and the

|
Ss a) /f

H]

ee

/

EA

y

Fig. 29.—Side-Grafting with the Scion bound
on the Stock.

scion, with only a single leaf at-
tached, is inserted. The pot with
the grafted plant is then plunged
into a hotbed, and covered closely

GRAFTING.

with a glass. This process is called
in France La greffe ctouffée.

Inarching differs from the other
kinds of grafting, by preserving the
scion attached to the parent plant
till it has become united with the
stock in such a manner as te derive
its nourishment from it. For the
mode of performing the operation,
sce INaRcHING.

To graft with success, the opera-
tion is best performed in spring, im-
mediately before the buds of the
scion begin to expand; and, in
general, the scion ought, in this re-
spect, to be in advance of the stock ;

Fig. 3u —<irafting, with the end of the Scion
in a Bottle of Water.

a result which is obtained by cutting
off the scions from the parent plant
in the winter season, and inserting
their ends in the soil in a cool shady
place in the garden till they are
wanted in spring. In performing
the operation, it - necessary to have
0*

233

GRAFTING.

| a very sharp knife ; for if the slight.
| est roughness is left on the parts of
ithe scion and the stock which are
ito be united, their perfect union
| cannot be effected. ‘The operation
ought also to be performed with
| rapidity, so as to expose the naked
| sections of the scion and stock for
as few moments as possible to the
atmosphere. When the plants to be
| grafted are in pots, they should im-
|mediately afterwards be placed in
a gentle heat, and kept moist; and,
if covered with a bell-glass, so much
the betier. ‘The latter practice may
be considered as essential in the
case of grafted Orange trees, Ca-
mellias, Rhododendrons, Daphnes,
Arbutus, Magnolias, &c. Grafts
made in the open air, on very small
plants, may sometimes be covered
with hand-glasses, or slightly shel-
tered or shaded till they have begun
to grow ; and the soil may be cov-
ered with litter, or rotten tan, or
leaves, to retain the moisture.
Where no pains are spared, the soil
may be warmed immediately after
grafting, by watering it with a few
pots of hot water. After the scion
has made shoots a few inches in
length, the clay may be removed
and the matting loosened; but care
must be taken not to do this too
soon. The proper time may always
be. known by observing whether the
edge of the scion exhibits a granu-
lating process, closely uniting it
with the stock. In general, in the
course of the month of August, all
the matting from plants grafied in
the open air may be removed; and
with those under glass, this may be
done much sooner.

Grafting clay is made of clayey
loam, or brick-earth, mixed with
about a fourth part of fresh horse-
dung, free from litter, and a portion
of hay cut into pieces about an inch
in length, adding a little water, and
beating the whole together for seve-
ral hours. On asmall scale, how

iss

ah Et

GRAVEL.

ever, this preparation is not neces-
Sary; as either moist clay alone, or
cow-dung, may be plastered over
the graft, and covered with moss,
or even with coarse paper; the
moss, or paper, being tied on with
matting. ‘The use of the covering
is to exclude the air, and conse-
quently to retain the moisture of
the scion and stock, and also an
agreeable degree of temperature, in
order that the vessels of the two
woods may be able to unite.

Grafting wax is composed of
bees’ wax and pitch, with some tal-
low, and a little rosin; at first melt-
ed and mixed together, and after-
wards heated as wanted. ‘The pro-
portions are of no great consequence.
The mixture is kept in an earthen
pot, in which it may be heated
when wanted; and it is laid on with
a brush till it is a quarter of an inch
thick; and, if covered with dry
sand while it is still soft and warm,
it will not be likely to melt and fall
off, which otherwise would probably
be the case.

Grains or Parapise.—The ber-
ries of Cocculus indicus.

Grare Hyacintu.— See
ca‘RI.

Grasses.— There are but very
few ornamental kinds of Grass that
are worth cultivating in a garden;
and the most remarkable of these
are the Quaking Grass, Briza
média, and- the Feather Grass,
Stipa pinnata. The Italian reed,
Ariindo Donaz, and its variety, the
Ribbon Grass, A. D, versicolor, are
very ornamental; but they are
Reeds rather than Grasses, though
they belong to the same natural
family, Graminee. For a list of
the Grasses proper for laying down
a lawn, or grass plat, and their
qualities, see Lawn.

Grass Vetcu.—See Nisso‘nia.

GRAVEL is in universal use for
forming walks in Britain; as sand

Mus-

234

es

GRAVEL.

tinent. The grand desiderata in
gravels are: the quality of binding,
or forming a smooth compact body,
not liable to be disturbed by the
feet in walking; and a good colour
which shall harmonize agreeably
with the grass, and trees, &c.,
around it. It is a very common
practice in forming gravel-walks,
to use the gravel as it comes from
the pit, and, after it is laid down
and rolled, to cover it with sand
taken from the same gravel by
screening or sifting ; but unless this
sand be of a binding nature from
its containing a good deal of iron,
it soon separates from the rough
gravel below, and is removed by
sweeping. _ Gravel, whether con-
sisting of large or small stones, or
particles, if laid down when per-
fectly dry, very seldom can be made
to bind; and, under such circum-
stances, it forms a rough, moving,
and consequently a most disagree-
able surface to walk on. A remedy
for evils of this kind, which is some-
times successful, is to strew over
the walk Roman cement in powder,
then to rake it so as to incorporate
the powdered cement with the sur-
face of the ground to the depth of
two or three inches, and immediate-
ly afterwards to water it thorough-
ly, and roll it till it becomes quite
hard and smooth. This is one of
the best modes of forming a per-
manent and agreeable gravel walk
on a steep slope; it is also an ex-
cellent mode in small gardens,
where the object is to save labour
in keeping, and to prevent the
growth of weeds. Seashore gravel,
which is generally mixed with sand
and shells, can only be rendered
firm by this process, or by one
which destroys its colour, viz. mix-
ing it with tar or gasliquor. When
so mixed, however, it forms a very
durable walk, though it is of a dark
and disagreeable colour. Next to

is, for want of gravel, on the Con-' these modes the best means is to

t%

GRAVEL.

break a number of small stones, or
pebbles, into fragments ; and if this
be done with about one-third of the
quantity of gravel to be used, and
the fragments intimately mixed
with the round pebbles, the gravel,
when thoroughly rolled with a very
heavy roller, will bind. The finest
gravel in the world is composed of
the débris of flints, such as the Ken-
Sington gravel; and this kind,
which has hitherto been found in
only a few parts of England, is
sent to every part of the world.

It must always be remembered,
that broken angular pieces of stone,
whether large or small, will bind
much better than round pebbles;
and if with the broken stones be
mixed a ferruginous clay, which is
generally of a reddish, brownish,
or yellowish colour, and the whole
be rolled immediately after it is
laid down, it will harden by expo-
sure to the atmosphere, and will
become quite firm and smooth. If,
however, the rolling should be neg-
lected for a few days, the particles
of rusty earthy matter will become
hardened individually in a_ loose
tate ; and even if rolled afterwards,
they will never become quite firm.
It must also be observed, that large
and small stones do not bind well
together ; and hence all gravel, as
soon as it 1s taken from the pit,
should be sifted through a wire
screen, the wires of which are only
sufficiently wide apart to admit
stones of the size of a moderately
large guvoseberry, and all the larger
stones should be thrown on one side
to be broken. The gravel that has
passed through the screen should
then be examined, and if it be found
mixed with too much earthy matter,
it should be again sifted through a
wire sieve, sufficiently fine to allow
only the earth to pass through. Part
of the earthy matter should then
be well mixed with the gravel and
broken stones, in the proportion of

235

GRAVEL.

one third of each, and the whole
should be laid evenly on the walk,
and rolled immediately.

When gravel walks have become
loose from time or frequent sweep-
ing, or from the gravel being origi-
nally of a bad quality, they may be
rendered firm by forking them over ;
and, after raking out the largest of
the stones, and breaking them, mix-
ing the gravel with equal parts of
sand and ferruginous clay in a
somewhat moist state; rolling the
whole as soon as the materials have
been equally spread over the walk.
If, however, neither sand nor fer-
ruginous clay can be easily procur-
ed, burnt common clay powdered

may be mixed with the gravel; the ©

clay having been burnt by spread-
ing it on the furnace of a hothouse,
or by mixing it with fagots, and
then setting fire to the whole; but
in this case also, care must be taken
that the mixed clay and gravel are
watered after they are laid down,
and immediately after rolled.
There are various substitutes for
gravel. Where colour is the object,
as well as firmness and smoothness,
there is nothing better than burnt
lumps of clay, reduced to a very
coarse powder, and slightly mixed
with Roman cement. Where colour

can be dispensed with, a most effec- |

tive garden-walk, and one which
will last for many years, may be
formed of the scrapings of public
ro@ds, which have been made, or
metalled, as road-makers term it,
with granite, or other coarse stone,
mixed with tar, laid down to the
depth of six inches on a bottom of
broken stone, and smoothly and
firmly rolled. The different kinds
of asphalte so laid down also make
smooth and durable walks ; but they
are too expensive for general use.
Where no gravel can be procured,
granite or other stone, broken very
small, and firmly rolled, will make
a very durable walk, though the

“lop

>» *

GREENHOUSE.

GREENHOUSE.

colour is far inferior to that of fine shelf; or, in some cases, it may be

yellow gravel. For laying out
walks, and the mode of preparing
the foundation of gravel walks, &c.,
see WALKs.

GREEK VALERIAN.—See Po.e-
MO‘NIUM.

GREEN-FLY.—See A'‘puis.

GreeENHOUSE.-—A_ structure for
growing those plants in (more par-
ticularly in the winter season,)
which will not endure the open air
of British winters. It may be of
any form, but the most convenient
is a square or a parallelogram, with
upright glass in front, sufficiently
high to admit of walking upright
under it immediately within the
glass; and with a sloping roof, at
such an angle as readily to throw
off the rain. This roof, for the
better receiving the sun’s rays,
should face the south, south-east, or
south-west, and this is called the
aspect.
be lower than seven feet in height,
and the height of the back should
be about two-thirds of the width of
the house. The space within is
generally laid out so as to have a
shelf in front, about two feet high
from the ground, and two or three
feet in width; and next there is a
path two or three feet in width$
the remainder of the floor, from the
edge of the path to the back wall,
being occupied with a series of
shelves, rising one above another
like the steps of a staircase, on
which the pots of plants are to be
placed. These shelves may be nine
inches or a foot in width, and the
height of one above another may
also be nine inches or one foot. The
mode,in which artificial heat is com-
municated to such a house is by
smoke-flues, or hot-water pipes.
The fire should be at one end, or
behind the house, whichever may
be most convenient ; and the prin-
cipal flue or hot-water pipe should
be along the front wall, under the

The front should seldom |

| under the path. The reason for this

position of the flue or pipe is, that
heat always ascends ; and, conse-
quently, if the source of heat were
placed under the back of the house,
the heat would ascend directly to
the roof at the upper angle of the
house, and would scarcely heat the
lower or front part at all. In order
to admit of ventilation, the front
sashes should open outwards, or slide
along a groove ; and the roof-sashes
should also open by sliding the one
over the other. Other minor details
need not be here entered into, as
they are perfectly understood by all
constructors of greenhouses,whether
of wood or iron. With respect to
these two materials, iron admits of
the greatest variety of shape, such
as a curvilinear ground plan and
roof, and it also admits most light ;
but the construction in wood is most
generally understood, and is father
the cheapest. Very excellent and
| ornamental greenhouses in iron are
| constructed by Messrs. Cottam and
Hallen, and wooden houses may be
made by any carpenter or joiner.

\

WN

Fg, 31.—A small Greenhouse.

Fig. 31 shows a small green-
house, heated by hot water, con-
taining a propagating shelf (a) for

' cuttings, as they must be near the

7%

GREENHOUSE.

Fig. 33.—Greenhcuse and Vinery inside.

glass. It is not usual in green-
houses of this shape to have any
path behind the pots; but, in this,
a concealed path is left at 6, which
may be masked by Thumbérgia
alata, or some other climbing-plant,
so as to enable the gardener to get
on the path d, to water the plants
on the shelf (a). The stage may
be composed of flagstones supported
by brick piers (c). ‘There is a front
shelf for bushy ornamental plants at
e. This house is to be heated by
hot-water pipes, shown at f; or by
smoke-flues in the same _ space,
omitting the pipes. A house of a
different description, in which vines
may be grown, and manure intro-
duced to afford bottom-heat, is shown
in figs. 32 and 33. This house is
only intended to force flowers, so as
to have Roses at Christmas, &c.;
or to keep them during winter; and

237

GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

it has no heat but what is afforded
by the manure. Where horses are
kept, this house is a very cheap one.
GREENHOUSE Puants are those
which will not bear the cold of a
British winter in the open air, but
that only require to be protected
from frost. Many persons injure
their greenhouse plants by giving
them too much heat in winter, and
too litle air in summer, and are then
| Surprised to find their plants die, or
at least become sickly, and remain
without flowering, notwithstanding
all the care that has been bestowed
upon them. No greenhouse ought
to be kept at a greater heat at night
| than from 35° to 40° during winter;
but the thermometer ought never te
be suffered to fall below 35°. In
the day, particularly if there be
sunshine, it will of course rise high-
ler; but the fire should be lessened
accordingly, as the thermometer,
even in sunshine, should not rise in
winter above 50°, or at most 52° or
53°. A higher temperature will
|induce premature vegetation; and
the plant will waste its strength in
an abortive attempt to produce
flowers and seeds at a season when
its nature requires it to be kept in a
state of complete repose. The
second fault, of giving too little air,
is an equally serious one. Plants
can no more live without fresh air
than without water; and even in
winter, the sashes of a greenhouse
should be opened for an hour or two,
say from twelve till two, in the mid-
dle of the day, whenever the sun
shines, or the frost is not too intense.
In the summer, say from the middle
of May to the middle of September,
the plants should be set out in the
open air; the space on which they
are to stand being covered two or
three inches deep with small coal or
slack, or ashes, to prevent the worms
from creeping out of the ground
into the holes at the bottom of the
pots. In cold and damp seasons,

At

“a

GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 238

GRINDELIA.

the time for putting out the plants
may be delayed till June ; and pre-
viously to their removal, the sashes
of the greenhouse should be left
open for a week or ten days, night
and day. Greenhouse plants should
be watered regularly every evening
in summer, and twice a day if the
weather be very hot and dry. In
winter, they should always be wa-
tered in a morning, when water is
given; but this need not be every

day. Some plants, indeed, do not |

require watering oftener than once

a week. The general rule is fre-|

quently to examine the pots, and to
give water whenever the earth ap-
pears to have become dry on the

surface. Greenhouse plants should |

never be suffered to stand in saucers
during winter, as stagnant water is
peculiarly injurious at that season ;
and whenever the earth in a pot
looks black and sodden with water,
the plant should be turned out of

the pot, and, after the black earth |
has been shaken from its roots, it |

should be repotted in fresh soil, well
drained with broken crocks or cin-
ders. In February or March, the
plants should be looked over, and

repotted where necessary ;_ those |

that are too tall should be cut in,
and cuttings made of their shoots.
The young plants raised from cut-
tings made in autumn should be re-
potted in larger pots for flowering ;
and where the plants do not require
fresh potting, but have the surface
of their mould become green and

mossy, the moss should be taken off, |

and the ground slightly stirred with
a flat stick, taking care, however,
not to go so deep as to injure the
roots. When trouble is not an ob-
ject, all greenhouse plants are the
better for repotting once every year,
either in spring or autumn ; and
when the ball is taken out of the
pot for this purpose, it should be
carefully examined, and all the de-
cayed parts of the roots should be

‘cut off, Sometimes, when the ball

of earth is turned out, nearly half
of it will fall off almost without
touching it; and when this is the
| case, it will generally be found that
there is a worm in the pot. Worms
do a great deal of mischief to green-
house plants in cutting through the
roots, as their instinct teaches them
| to make their way through the earth
‘straight across the pot and back
_again ; and they cannot do this
without tearing the roots asunder
|every time they pass. Another
point to be attended to in the man-
agement of a greenhouse is keeping
the plants as near as possible to the
glass ; as, unless this be done, the
plants will become what gardeners
call “drawn up,” and unnaturally
tall and slender, from the efforts
they make to reach the light.

Grevi'LLEA.— Protedcee.— Aus-
tralian plants with very curious
flowers, which should be grown in
a mixture of equal parts of sand,
loam, and peat. ‘They are increas-
ed by seeds, which ripen freely, or
_ by cuttings of the old wood, in sand,
under a bell-glass.

GrirFl'nia. — Amarylliddcea. —
Handsome bulbous-rooted plants,
which require the heat of a stove,
and which should be grown in equal
parts of white sand, loam, and peat.
They should be allowed a season of
/complete rest in winter, and abun-
_dantly supplied with water when
they begin to grow after repotting
in spring. They should have plen-
ty of air; and they are increased
by offsets, which should be taken
off when they are repotted. They
flower in autumn.

GrinvE‘LiA, W.; (Do'nta, R
Br.) — Composite.— Perennial and
annual plants, with large showy
yellow flowers. The leaves of some
of the species are covered with a
white glutinous matter, that sok
like milk. Nearly all the specie
iare natives of Mexico, and they

ee “
GROTTOES. 239 GUERNSEY LILY.

should all be grown in a mixture of | ting in the grotto can hear the mur-
Joam and peat. ‘The perennial; mur of the water, and see the light
species all require the protection of | reflected on it at a distance, than
a frame during winter. in the grotto itself.

GRoOTTOEs are covered seats, or Grounp Cuerry.—Ceérasus Cha-
small cells or caves, with the sides | m@cérasus.
and roof constructed of rockwork, Grounp Ivy.—See GLecuo‘Ma.
or of brick or stone, covered inter-| GrounpseL.— Senécio vulgdris.—
nally with spar or other curious} I mention this troublesome weed,
stones, and sometimes ornamented | to enforce on amateur gardeners the
with marine productions, such as | necessity of pulling it up as soon as
corals, madrepores, or shells. Ait appears, without suffering it to
kind of grotto is also constructed of | open its flowers, lest it should ripen
roots ornamented with moss. Per-| any of its seed. The plant belongs
haps the most generally effective | to the Composite, and the seeds
grotto is one formed with blocks | are each furnished with a feathery
of stone, without ornameuts either | wing or pappus, by means of which
externally or internally, with the} they are distributed in all direc-
floor paved with pebbles, and with | tions.
a large long stone, or a wooden| GrouNnpsEL-TREE.--Bdccharis ha-
bench painted to imitate stone, as | limifolius—A shrub with bluish
a seat. The roof should be render- | green leaves, and rather pretty flow-
ed waterproof by means of cement, | ers, which are produced in autumn.
and covered with ivy; or a mass} It will grow in any common garden
of earth may be heaped over it, and | soil, but it is killed in severe winters
planted with periwinkle, ivy, or| if in an exposed situation. It may
other low-growing evergreen shrubs, | be propagated by cuttings, which
which may be trained to hang down | will strike if planted in the open
over the mouth of the grotto. In| border in autumn; or by layers.
some cases it answers to cover} Gu’aracum. — Zygophy'llee. —
grottoes with turf, so that when seen | Lignum-vite tree. Hothouse trees
from behind they appear like a knoll | which are grown in loam and peat,
of earth, and in front like the en- | and propagated by cuttings. When
trance into a natural cave. As| transplanted, great care should be
grottoes are generaily damp at most | taken not to injure the roots, which
seasons of the year, they are more | are small and very brittle.
objects of ornament or curiosity than} | Guano.—A new kind of manure,
useful as seats or ; laces of repose. | lately introduced from South Ame-
One of the finest grottoes in Eng-|rica. It consists of the dung of
land is that at Pain’s Hill, formed | sea-fowls, collected from the Guano
of blocks of stone, with stalactite | Islands, on the coast of Peru; and
incrustations hanging from the roof, | it is so strong that a table-spoonfui
and a small stream running across | of it dissolved in water will go as
the floor. Pope’s grotto at Twick-| far as three trowels-full of horse
enham, the grotto at Weybridge,| dung. It may be used for Orange-
anu that at Wimbourne St. Giles, | trees, Pelargoniums, Heart’s-ease,
which last cost 10,000/., are also| Fuchsias, and any other plants re-
celebrated. A fountain or a gush- | quiring rich soil.
ing stream is a very appropriate} Gua‘va.—See Psr'p1um.
ornament to a grotto; though,| GureLperR Rose.—See Visu'RNUM.
where practicable, it is better in an Guernsey Liny.— Nerine sar:
adjoining cave, when @ person sit- | niénsis, Ker.—See NERI'NE.

—————————EE
ee

HABRANTHUS.

240

fet oonaeey ~Een ys Bw oak

HALESIA.

Gypsoca’Luis, Sal.— Ericdcee.—
The mbor, or Cornish Heath, sepa-
rated from the genus Erica by Sal-
isbury.—For culture, see Ert‘ca.

Gypso'pHiLa. — Caryophyllacee,
or Silendcee. — Small - flowered
creeping or trailing plants, annuals
and perennials, which require a
calcareous soil, and are well adapt-
ed for rockwork.

Gypsum.—Sulphate of lime, com-
monly called plaster of Paris.

Guo Arabic Tree.—Acdcia vera,
or arabica.—See Aca\cta.

Gum Cistus.—Cistus Cy'prius,
or ladaniferus—See Ci'stus.

H.

Hapena‘RIA. Orchidaceae. —
Hardy North American perennials,
with tuberous roots, and very curi-
ously shaped flowers, which are
generally yellow, but sometimes
purple, and sometimes white. They

grow best in a shady situation, and |

in a peat soil, kept rather moist
than dry.

Hapra’ntuus. — Amaryllidacee.
—Bulbous-rooted plants, (some of |
which will thrive in the open ground,
though others require a greenhouse,
and others a stove,) the culture of
which exactly resembles that of
the Amaryllis. The flowers are
also similar, though very much
smaller; and, as in the Amaryllis,
they are produced before the leaves.
The Habranthus appears to exem-
plify the doctrine of bulbs being |
under-ground stems; for we are
told by the Hon. and Rev. W. Her-
bert, (Got. Mag. t. 257,) that the

bulbs of this species, though round |

when imported, after having been
potted a year become gradually
elongated. Plants of this genus are
generally grown in a mixture of
sandy loam and peat; and for the

details of their culture, see Ams-| seed is curiously winged.

RY’LLIs.

Hema'ntuus.—Amaryllidacee.—-
Bulbous plants, with large red flow-
ers of very singular appearance and
no particular beauty. They are
very coarse-growing, and take up
a great deal of room. H. multi-
florus is, however, an exception, a9
it is rather pretty. All the species
require the heat of a greenhouse,
and to be grown in sandy loam and
peat ; they should also have a sea-
son of complete rest. For the rest
of their culture, see AMARY’LLIS.

H zmato'xyLon.—-Leguminose.-—
The Logwood. This tree, which
grows about twenty feet high in its
native country, is a stove-shrub in
Britain, It has yellow flowers, and
should be grown in a mixture of
peat and loam.

Ha‘xea.— Protedcee. — Austra-
lian shrubs, with flowers somewhat
resembling those of the Grevillea,
which are frequently sweet-scented.
The plants are generally kept in
the greenhouse, should be grown in
peat and sand mixed with a little
loam, and the pots should be well
drained, and never suffered to be-
come either too wet or. too dry. See
| AUSTRALIAN SHRUBS.

Haxe'sis. — Halesidcee. — The
| Snowdrop-tree. American low trees,
|which generally form very hand-
| some hardy shrubs in British pleas-
ure-grounds. The reason of this
lis, that in North America the
species all grow on the banks of
rivers, in very poor rocky soil,
whereas in England they are grown
|in dry places in rich soil; and too
much nourishment to a tree which
does not require it, has the same
effect as too much animal food to a
child—it makes it increase in width
instead of height. ‘The Snowdrop-
tree flowers freely, and its stem
| droops gracefully over water. ‘The
flowers are white, and resemble
those of the Snowdrop; and the
The
species will grow 1m any soil or situ-

a 3

-

HAND-GLASSES.

241

HARES AND RABBiTs.

ation, but they all prefer a poor soil
near water and a sandy situation.
They are generally propagated by
layers, though they all ripen seed
abundantly in England.
Haxrmope/Npron.— Leguminose.
—The Salt-tree, H. argénteum,
Dee. (Robinia Halimodéndron,
Lin.) is a Siberian hardy shrub,
which will grow in any soil or situ-
ation. When grafted standard high
on a Laburnum, it forms a very
handsome drooping tree, with sil-
very leaves and purple flowers.
Hama'me.is. — Hamamelacee. —
The Witch Hazel. A hardy shrub,
a native of North America, which
will grow freely in any soil that is
not too rich, though it prefers a dry
stony gravel. It has the peculiari-
ty of flowering during winter, be-
ginning to expand its rich deep yel-
low flowers just as its leaves are
falling off, and dropping its flowers
when its branches begin to be re-
clothed with leaves in spring.
Hanp-eiasses—Portable frames
or covers, formed of iron, zinc, or
wood, and glazed. These glasses
differ from bell-glasses in being
longer, and composed of numerous
small pieces of glass, which are
fastened together by narrow strips
of lead. Hand-glasses are gene-
rally square, but they may be made
of an octagon, or any other shape
that may be found most convenient ;
and they are sometimes made with
a pane to open to admit air, or with
the upper part to take off. This is
very convenient ; for as hand-glass-
es are chiefly used for protecting
half-hardy plants during winter, it

as the plants seldom want any air
till they have rooted.
Harpense’reia. — Leguminose.
—A new name given by Mr. Ben-
tham to Kennédya monophy'lla, and
five other species of that genus,
which have small purplish flowers.
Harpy puants are all those that
will stand the open air in British
gardens without the slightest pro-
tection ; half hardy ones are those
that may be planted in the open
ground, but require the protection
of a mat or hand-glass ; and tender,
those that must be kept during
winter in a hotbed or plant-house
heated by artificial means. Green-
house and frame plants are those
grown in pots, which require pro-
tection from the frost during winter,
and stove plants are those grown
in a hothouse all the year.
Haresev_i.—lIt is rather curious,
that though few poets can write a
sonnet without mentioning the
Harebell, and though it is sure to
be introduced in every eloquent
prose description of country scenery,
botanists cannot exactly decide
what plant is meant by the name—
some supposing it to be the beauti-
ful little blue Campanula rotundi-
folia, and others, the wild Hyacinth,
Scilla non-scripta. The fact is,
that both plants are now known by
the name in different parts of Bri-
tain: but as the original word is
said to have been “ air-bell,” it is
most probable that it was the Cam-
panula that was first so designated,
and that is alluded to by the poets ;
as the tender blue of its flowers is
so near the colour of the skies, as

is necessary to give them air every | not to require any great exertion of

fine day, and it is very troublesome
to be cbliged to lift the hand-glass
off the plant, and to lay it on one
side whenever this is done. Bell-
glasses, on the contrary, being prin-
_cipally for preventing the evapora-
tion of moisture from the leaves of
cuttings, do not require any opening,
21

“iy

poetic fancy to call it a bell of air;
and as its slender stem has sufficient
elasticity to rise again when lightly
trodden on.

Hares anp Rassits do a great
deal of mischief to flower gardens,
as they are very fond of devouring
many flowering plants—particularly

My

HAULM.

Pinks and Carnations. They are
also very fond of young plants of
Laburnum in the shrubberies, and
of Parsley in the kitchen-garden.
The usual way of protecting Pinks
and Carnations is by an invisible
wire fence, or by a network of black
worsted, supported at intervals by
blackened wires; but the young
plantations are generally protected
by common netting supported by
notched stakes. Some persons sow
Parsley near their Carnations, in
the hope that the hares will eat that
in preference ; but it often proves
injurious, as the smell of the Pars-
ley attracts more hares than would
otherwise discover the Carnations,
and thus the Parsley being soon de-
voured, the Carnations are com-
pletely destroyed.
Harr’s-Ear.—See Burievu‘rum.
Hare’s-roor Fern. — Davdllia
canariénsis.—A very curious exotic
Fern, the roots of which grow out
of the pot, and closely resemble a
hare’s foot. It is a native of the
Canaries, and should be grown in
sand and peat.
Hanrvt’s-roncue.—Scolopéndrium
officindrum.—One of the handsomest
of the British Ferns, from its broad
tongue-shaped leaves. It grows in
marshy places. It is called Scolo-
pendrium from its roots bearing
some resemblance to the little lumi-
nous insect Scolopéndra eléctrica.
Harcuet Vercu.—Coronilla Se-
curiddca, now called Securigera
Coronilla.—A coarse-growing hardy
annual, which takes up a great deal
of room, from its large, rough, and
widely-spreading leaves and stems;
while it can boast of little beauty
in its single yellow pea-flowers. It
will grow in any soil or situation.
Havutm.—The dead stalks and
leaves of peas, potatoes, &c. It is
generally gathered up, and carried
to the rubbish-heap to rot for ma-
nure, or burnt. It is also sometimes
used for covering the ground over

242

HEART’S-EASE.

the roots of trees, &c., to keep out
the frost.

Hawkweev.—The plants properly
called Hawkweed belong to the ge-
nus Hieracium ; they have generally
yellow flowers, and many of them
are British weeds: the yellow Hawk-
weed of the gardens (Tlpis barba-
tus), and the red Hawkweed (Bork-
hatsia rubra), are, however, quite
distinct. They are both hardy an-
nuals, which only require sowing
in the open border; and one of
which (the yellow) will stand the
winter in the open ground without
protection, if sown in autumn. The
red-flowered kind is very apt to be-
come drawn up with long slender
stems, and requires staking and ty-
ing to make it look well.—See Cre'-
pis and Hrera‘cium.

THawrtuorn. — Crate’ gus Oxya-
cantha.—See Cratz\cus.

Haze. — Coérylus Avellana. —
The common Hazel is rather a fruit-
tree than an ornamental shrub ; but
it is sometimes grown in pleasure-
grounds and geometric gardens, to
form a shady walk. Walks of this
kind were great favourites in the
time of Elizabeth, and also in the
Dutch gardens laid out in the time
of William III. They are there-
fore suitable in the gardens of Eliz-
abethan houses, or of any mansions
built in James I.’s style. They re-
quire no particular care but planting
the young trees in a loamy soil, giy-
ing them, if possible, a little of that
rich yellow soil generally called
hazel loam, from its peculiar adapt-
ation to this plant, and clipping and
training the branches so as to make
the walk form one continued bower.

Hearr’s-Ease, or Pansy.—Most _

of the different kinds now in culti-
vation have sprung partly from the
wild kind, Viola tricolor, hybridized
by some other species ; and as all the
kinds, whether hybrids or species,
vary very much when raised from
seed, and as these varieties and hy-

#

EEAT.

brids may be readily cross-bred with
each other, the number of kinds
that may be raised defies all calcu-
lation. The Heart’s-ease must be
grown in very rich soil, composed,
if in pots or boxes, of four parts of
rich loam, one of sand, and one of
decayed leaves, or roiten dung ; and
if in the open ground, of rich loam
highly manured. It is propagated
by seeds, or division of the root.
‘The seeds should be sown as soon |
as they are ripe in a bed, where the
young plants should remain till they
flower, when the best should be
taken up and replanted in another |
bed, or in well-drained pots or boxes,
for flowering. The plants will re-
quire constant watering during the
hot weather ; but they are very apt
to damp off if the soil in which
they grow has not been well drained.
The best varieties are propagated
by cuttings taken off from the points
of the sheots, in the spring, cutting
them clean across immediately be-
low a joint. The cuttings should
be struck in pure white sand, and
covered with a bell-glass; they
should not be watered when put in,
and they sheuld be shaded for seve-
ral days. MHeait’s-eases are also
propagated by layers, pegged down
at a joint, but not slit, on account
of their tendency to damp off.
Heart is concentrated or produced
in gardens in a variety of ways: by
shelter from winds, which prevents
the natural heat of the plants from |
being carried of by currents of air |
passing over them ; by exposure to
the sun, which concentrates its
rays ; by covering a surface of soil
or the roots and stems of plants with
a non-conducting material, such as
straw, litter, leaves, &c., which pre-
vents its radiation; by fermenting
substances, such as_ stable-dung,
litter, leaves, tan, &c., which pro-
duce heat by their decomposition ;
and by the consumption of fuel,
‘from which the heated air generated

243

HEDERA.

is conducted in flues, or by means
of pipes of hot water orsteam. Hot-
beds are generally heated by a bed
of horse-dung, or other fermenting
material; and brick-built pits, or
houses with glass roofs, are heated
by furnaces and flues, or furnaces,
boilers, and pipes of hot water or
steam. Stable-dung and hot-water

| pipes are the two best modes of heat-

ing pits and glass-roofed houses.
Heat when produced is retained by
coverings which admit the light,
such as glass sashes, or in some
cases frames covered with oil-paper,
or with very thin canvass or gauze
Heats.—See Ert'ca.
HEArTH-MOULD is very frequently
confounded with peat-bog, by ama-
teur gardeners ; but the fact is, they
are materially different. Black peat,
which consists of vegetable fibre,
prevented from decomposing by a

| superabundance of water, is unfit

for the growth of plants when in a
pure state ; but heath-mould, or peat
nixed with sand, is admirably adapt-
ed for the growth of all Australian
and American hair-rooted plants, as
the mixture of sand with the peat
prevents its retention of water; it
is only the retention of water that
prevents the decomposition of the
vegetable matter it contains.—See
PEAT-BOG.
Hr’persa.—Aralidcee.—The Ivy.
This well-known plant is what bot-
anists call a rooting climber; that
is to say, its stems climb up and
wind themselves round trees, or any
other suitable object which presents
a sufficiently rough surface for their
roots to take hold of; as, unless this
is the case, the Ivy, whenever it is
rendered heavy by rain or snow,
falls down. Whenever, therefore,
Ivy is wanted to cover smooth,
newly-plastered walls, trellis-work
should be fixed against.them, to
which the Ivy should be nailed like
any other plant. The Ivy is re-
markable for undergoing a complete

HEDGES.

244

HELIANTHEMUM.

change in its leaves when it flowers.
The barren or creeping Ivy, which
trails along the ground, and roots
into it, rarely flowers, and its leaf is
deeply cut; but the tree Ivy, or
flowering part, rears itself on high,
so as to be fully exposed to the light
and air, and the leaves become of
an oval shape. H. canariénsis, the
giant, or Irish Ivy, as it is some-
times called, though it is a native

of the Canaries, is hardier and grows |
much faster than the common kind ; |
but the variegated kinds are more |
tender, and grow much slower. Ivy

requires a deep and somewhat light
soil, into which its roots can pene-

trate easily; and when grown for |

any purpose, in pots or boxes, it

should be abundantly supplied with |

water. Ivy is useful in all cases
where a naked space is to be covered
with green in ashort space of time ;

and it is particularly valuable in |

town gardens, as it will bear the

smoke and want of pure air in cities |

better than most other plants. It
should, however, in all close and

crowded situations, be abundantly |

supplied with water, and occasion-
ally syringed overthe leaves. The
gold and silver varieties are very

beautiful, especially the former,when |
grown against the chimney of a |

dwelling-house or hothouse ; but they
require warmth to make them thrive.
Hencexocs.—Medicago minima.
—An annual plant, with small
yellow pea-flowers, and curiously-
shaped capsules, which resemble
hedgehogs. The plant is weedy-
looking, and not worth growing.
Hever Musrarp.—See Eny’sr-
MUM.
Hepner Nerrie.—See Sra‘cuys.
Hepees for flower-gardens should
be composed of ornamental plants,
such as Cyddnia japonica, Pri-
vet, Laurestinus, Ribes sanguinea,
Roses, and double-blossomed Furze,
or Ivy and other climbers, trained
oxer iron trellis-work. The hedge

‘to a flower-garden should never be
stiff and formal, so as to look like a
mere barrier; but it should be so
arranged, and should consist of
plants which harmonize so well with
‘the flowers in the garden, as to
‘make them appear a part of it.
|For farther details on this subject,
'see Fences.

Hepy’cuium. — Scitaminee. —

Garland-flower. Large reed-looking
plants with splendid flowers, but
which are only suitable for large
places, as they require the heat of a
stove, and a great deal of room, to
make them flower well. They are
natives of the East Indies. H. co-
ronarium, which is one of the com-
monest kinds, has large white flow-
ers, Which are exceedingly fragrant.
All the kinds require a light rich
soil, and are increased by dividing
‘at the roots.
Hepy'sarum. — Leguminodse. —
|The French Honeysuckle. The .,
species are mostly hardy biennials /
and perennials, which require only
the usual treatment of their respec-
tive kinds. They will grow well in
any rich light soil, and they are in-
'ereased by division of their roots
| and by seeds.

Heve'nium.— Compéosite.— The
‘species are generally tall-growing

perennial plants, with large yellow
flowers. They are increased by di-
_viding the root. There are two or
| three annual species which are quite
_hardy, and only require sowing in
'the open border. The handsomest
of these is H. quadridéntum; which
has bright erange-coloured flowers,
| like a Rudbeckia.
Hewia'/ntHEMuM. — Cistacee. —
The Sun-rose. Low shrubs, gener-
ally used for planting on rockwork,
and strongly resembling the Cistus
or Rock-rose. As most of the spe-
cies are rather tender, they require
protection during winter. For this
reason, they are either grown in
pots, which are placed on the rock-

|

™

ao >

HELIOPHILA.

work among the stones; or taken

up and repotted in winter, to be
planted out again in spring. The
egpebould be a compost of loam
and peat. They are generally in-
creased by seeds, which they npen
in abundance.

Hewia'ntruus.—Composite.—The |
|

Sunflower. The annual plant of

this name, though a native of Peru, )

is of the hardiest of its kind, as it

only requires sowing in the open |

border in any common garden soil.
It is not, however, suitable for any
situation, unless there be abundance
of room, on account of the large
size of its stalks and leaves. The

perennial kinds are much smaller, |
and very ornamental ; they are quite |

hardy, and will grow in any soil and
situation.
Heticury'sum. — Composite. —

The Everlasting. The common yel-_

ow Everlasting, H. bractedtum, is

a hardy annual that only requires |

sowing in the open border. H. bi-
color is a very slight variety, merely

differmg in having the outer petals |
tipped with copper colour; but #. |

macranthum has white flowers tipped
with pink, and is very handsome.

This species is a native of the Swan |
River colony, and it should be grown |
It may either |

in a light peaty soil.
be sown in the open ground in April,
to flower in autumn, or in a hot-

245

HELIX.

| Hetiorrore. — See HeEniorro'.
; PIUM.

| Hewiotrro‘rium. — Boraginee. —
| The Heliotrope is a favourite flower
in most countries, from its fragrance,
_which, however, is overpowering,
/and very unpleasant to those not
accustomed to strong perfumes. It
should be grown in a light rich soil,
and though it requires protection
during winter, it may be planted
out in May, when it will flower
splendidly in the open air, till de-
stroyed by frost in autumn. It is
propagated by cuttings, which strike
easily.

Heurx.—The Snail.—Snails are
so destructive to gardens, and par-
ticularly to those of small size, that
too much care cannot be taken to
destroy them. The best time for
effecting this is in winter or early
spring, when the snails are in a
quiescent state, and when they will
be found in great numbers sticking
to the walls, under ivy, &c., in box-
'edgings, or in the crevices of rock-
work, &c. In spring, the warmth
and moisture induce them to leave
their hiding-places, and they com-
'mence their work of destruction.
At this season, they should be sought
for in the day-time, in the same
kind of piaces as those they select
| for their winter retreats, and if pos-
| sible destroyed before they lay their

bed in February, to plant out in | eggs, which they do in April or May.

May.

Hetico'n1a.— Musdcee. — Splen-
did hothouse plants, which require
a rich sandy loam, and plenty of
room and heat, to bring them to
perfection. They are propagated
by division of the root.

Hetro'puita.—- Crucifere.—-Beau-
tiful little annual plants, natives of
the Cape of Good Hope, generally
with blue flowers, and very long
slender stems. The sceds should be
sown on a hotbed, in February, and
the plants planted out in a warm
open situation in May.

21*

*

The eggs, which are buried in the
earth in some rather moist and
shady place, and which are whitish,
and quite round and transparent,
should be sought for and destroyed
in May or June. By these means
the ravages of snails may be in a
great measure prevented ; and there
will be no occasion to resort to wa-
tering the beds with lime or tobacco
water, remedies which, unless very
judiciously practised, are in fact
worse than the disease. Many
persons place empty flower-pots in
different parts of a garden infested

#

/'The Christmas Rose, H. Niger, is

HEPATICA.

246

HESPERANTIA.

with snails at night; and when tiis |
is done, a great number of snails
will generally be found either in the
pots or sticking to the outside in the |
morning. Cabbdage-leaves and slices
of raw potatoes are also laid as traps
for snails. |
He we’ sorvus.—Ranunculdcee.—

one of the handsomest plants be- |
longing to this genus, on account of
its flowering in winter, or very early |
spring, before almost every other
flower. It is a hardy perennial, |
which will thrive in any common |
garden soil, and is increased by |
dividing the roots.

HeLmer-rLower.
THES.

Hexo'nias. — Melanthdeer. —
Perennial plants, natives ef Nerth
America, which produce spikes of
very small pinkish or white flowers,
and which are generally grown in
peat soil, and in a moist situation.
They are propagated by seeds or
division of the root.

Hemeroca’tuis.—The Day-lily.
Handsome perennial plants, with

|

See Corya'‘n- |

yellow or copper-coloured floweis.
They are quite hardy, and only
require a moist soil and a
situation. They are propagated by
dividing the roots. For the white and
purplish-flowered kinds, see Fu/NxK1a.
HeEn-anp-Crickens.—A kind of
Daisy.—See Be'iuis.
Henzane.—See Hyoscy‘amus,
Hepa'tica. — Ranunculaceae, —
Pretty little plants, which flower
very see in spring. They shculd
be grown ina hight sandy soil, and
a shady situation; and, as they have
a propensity to raise themselves out
of the soil, they should be taken up
every two or three years in autumn,
and replanted. If this be not done,
the earth should be raked or hoed
up round them, so as to cover the
roots ; as, if these are left exposed, |
they will wither, and the plants will |
probably die. The flowers of the |

shady

The Cow-parsnip.

Hepética, unlike those of most
other plants, possess their full colour
from the first formation of the bud.

Heracte‘um. — Tike ole

The giganti

Siberian Cow-parsnips, H. asperum
and H. giganteum, are probably two
of the most magnificent herbaceous
plants in the world. ‘They are
biennials, and are propagated by
seeds, which ripen in abundance.
The plants should be placed in a
shady, moist situation, near a pond,
if possible ; and where this is not
practicable, they should have abun-
dance of water. Thus treated, a

| plant has been known to attain the

height of fourteen feet in a single
summer, with a fluted stem six or
eight inches in diameter; and a
compound umbel of white flowers,
measuring twelve feet in circeum-
ference. A plant of these dimen-
sions, with leaves equally enormous,
grew in the grounds of Bromley
Hill in the summer of 1839 5 and
another of nearly the same size ‘grew
in our small garden at Bayswater
in the summer of 1840.
Herze’rtia.—Iridee.—A beauti-
ful bulbous plant named in honour
of the Reverend and Honourable
William Herbert, whose botanical
labours are so well known. It is a
native of Buenos Ayres, and it may
be grown either in a pot or in the
open air, in a sandy loam, as it only
requires protection from severe frest
or long-continued rains.
Hers-Rozgert.—A kind of wild
Geranium, very common by- the
road-sides throughout England and
the north of France.
Hermi‘one.—A name given by
Mr. Haworth to one of the gencra
which he formed out of the genus
Narcissus.
Heron’s Birt.—See Ero‘pium.
Hesprra ntua. — fridee. — The
Evening Flower. A genus of Cape
bulbs, nearly allied to Ixia, and re-
quiring the same treatment.

HIERACIUM.

HONEY DEW.

——

/

He'sreris. — Crucifere. — The
Garden Rocket. These flowers,

*#though very common, are rarely

grown, as they require a great
deal of care to bring them to per-
fection. They are all perennials ;
and as soon as they have done
flowering, they should be taken up,
and transplanted into fresh and very
rich soil, which must be of a light
and friable nature. The best is,
perhaps, that which has been used
during the preceding summer for
celery trenches. Thus treated, the
double white and double purple
varieties of Hésperis matrondlis will
attain extraordmary size, and will
flower splendidly. |

Hisse’rtia. — Dillenidcee. —
Trailing shrubs with large yellow
flowers, natives of New Holland, |
which require a greenhouse in Eng-
land. They should be grown in a
mixture of sandy loam and peat,
and they are propagated by cuttings.

Hisi'scus.— Malvdcee.— Showy
plants with large handsome flowers.
The hothouse species, which are
mostly from China, require a strong
moist heat. Hibiscus syriacus, the
Althea friitex, [or Rose of Sharon, |
is a hardy shrub, which will grow
well in any common garden soil,
and of which there are numerous
splendid varieties, some of the best
of which are those raised by Mr.
Masters, of Canterbury. The Al-
thea fritex is propagated by seeds
or layers. Several of the different
kinds of Hibiscus are marsh plants,
which grow best in pots suspended
in water from the side of a pond.—
See WaTER-PLANTS.

Hiera‘cium. — Composite. —The
common Hawkweed. British plants
with large yellow flowers, which
will grow freely in any light rich
soil. They are propagated by seed,
or division of the roots. The name
is said to be derived from the juice
of these plants being formerly given
to hawks, to clear and improve their ,

x

sight ; and it is still used for bathing
the eyes in ophthalmic disorders.

Hir.—The fruit of the wild Rose.

Hirrea'strum.—A genus now in-
cluded in Amaryllis.

Hirro/puasa. — Eleagndcee. —
Sea Buckthorn. Handsome hardy
shrubs, natives of North America,
which will grow in any common
soil, and are increased by layers.

Hirpu'‘ris.—Halordgee.--Mare’s-
tail. A British aquatic ; sometimes
planted in ponds, &c., to hide their
termination, aud to give the water
the appearance of a natural stream.

Hor.—There are. many different
kinds of hoes; but they may be all
reduced to two classes: the draw-
hoes, which have broad blades, and
are used for drawing up the earth
io the roots of plants, being pulled
to the operator; and the thrust or
Dutch hoes, which are principally
used for loosening the ground and
destroying the weeds, and which
the operator pushes from him.

Horne is an operation used for
loosening the earth, and destroying
weeds, where both. digging and
forking would be injurious to the
roots of the plants forming the crop.
It is also used to draw the earth up
to those plants which send out
numerous fibreus roots close to the
surface of the greund. This last
operation is called hoeing up, and
it is generally practised with annual
culinary crops.

Houiy.—NSee tex.

Ho.iyHock.—See ALTH#'‘A.

Home‘r1a.—iridee.—A genus of .
Cape bulbs, formerly included in
Morea, and which may be grown
in the open air, if protected by a
hand-glass during severe frosts or
heavy rains. The soil should be a
sandy yellow lo.m ; and the plants
are propagated by offsets, which
should be taken off and replanted
in September or October.

Honesty.—See Luna'ria.

Honey Dew is a clammy sub-

HOTBEDS.

248°

HOTHOUSES.

stance often found on the leaves of
trees and shrubs in hot weather;
and it is by some supposed to be
produced by insects, and by others
to be exuded by the tree. What-
ever may be its cause, it does in-
jury by stopping up the pores of the
leaves; and it should be washed off
as soon as it is discovered.
Honey-FLower. — See Metia’n-
THUS.
. HoneysuckLe. — See Capriro'-
LiuM and Lonice‘ra.
Honryworr.—See Cert'NTHE.
Hoop-rertricoat.—A kind of Nar-
eissus, NN. bulbocodium.
Hop.—See Hu'muuuvs.
Horn or Pirenry.—See Fe‘pia.
Horn-popry.—See GLavu‘cIuM.
Horns.—See Fe‘pia.

Horse-cHEsNuT.—See AX’/scuuts |

and Pa'via.
Horzeps are formed of dung, or
any other vegetable fermenting

| bed be not prepared till April, it
/need not be made above one foot
'in thickness. When the bed is
formed, the upper surface sho be
| perfectly level, or slightly sloping
_to the south ; and it should be three
| or four inches wider than the frame
on every side. After the frame is
set, the surface of the bed may be
covered with six inches of light
soil, on which the seeds may be
sown; or, what will generally be
found preferable, the seeds may be
sown in pots, and plunged in this
soil, care being taken that the heat
of the bed is not too great, and that
the seedlings when they come up
do not suffer for want of air. There
are thermometers for trying the
temperature of earth or dung by
plunging them into it; and there
are others for trying the temperature
of the air; but a very little experi-
ence will render these unnecessary.

material ; but stable dung is in| The soil should not be warmer than
most general use, and is by far the | 60°, nor the air than 65° or 70°,
best. When newly brought from | even during bright sunshine; but
the stables, it should be laid in a | if during the night it falls as low as
heap or ridge, five feet or six feet 45° or 50°, no bad consequences
in width, and four feet or five feet | will ensue. In severe weather, the
in height ; and after lying three or |sashes may be protected at night
four days, till a brisk fermentation |with mats, boards, canvass, or hur-
has taken place, it should be turned dles, covered with thatch or reeds.

over, taking care te place what was
outside in the interior ; and after a
few days more, when a second fer-
mentation has taken place, and the
straw has become so tender as to
be easily torn asunder with a fork,
the dung may be made up into a
bed.
on a platform of soil, six or eight
inches above the general surfs: e, to
preserve it from wet; and it snould
be of such a length and breadth as
suit the frame or bottomless box
which is to be placed upon it. For
raising tender annuals, or striking
cuttings, the depth of the bed of
dung need not be more than two
feet, if it be early in the season, for
example in February; but if the

This bed should be formed |

| Hotbeds should always be placed in
a sheltered situation open to the
south, and if possible on dry soil.
| When the heat of the dung begins
to fall low, it may be renewed by
exterior linings, which are narrow
_masses of fermenting dung placed
round the main bed of dung: but
‘for raising flower-seeds, this is
seldom necessary.

Hornovuses differ from green-
houses in being kept at a higher
| temperature, so as to suit tropical
plants; and in having a flat bed
for the principal part of the plants
|to stand on, instead of a sloping
| stage of shelves. This bed is com-
| monly surrounded by a narrow brick
wall, two or three feet high, and

Pa

2

HOUSTONTA.

4

9

HUMULUS.

filled with tan in which the plants
are plunged; but in some cases,
instead of tan, or any other ferment-
ing material, there is a cavity be-
neath the bed, in which flues or pipes
of hot water are placed; and the
surface of the bed is either covered

with sand, or some other material, |
calculated to retain an equality of.

moisture, in which the pots are
plunged in the same manner as in
the tan. Some cultivators do not
use any materials in which to plunge

the pots, but merely set them on the |
mest common species, H. carnosa,

surface of the bed, trusting to the
general heat of the air of the house,

or the heat emitted through the bot-_
tom of the pit from the pipes or.
quires a light rich soil, and is propa-
'gated by cuttings, which, however,

flues below, taking care to keep the
surface of the bed on which the

pots stand moist by pouring water |

over it at least once a day. The
heat of hothouses for ordinary tro-
pical plants should at no period of
the day or year be lower than 65°;
but in summer, during bright sun-
shine, it may be as high as 70°, 80°,
or 90°. Daring winter it should
never be lower than 60° in the day-
time. In hothouses devoted to the
growth of Orchideous plants, a
higher temperature is-requisite than
or the ordinary plants of the tro-
pics, and also a_ proportionately
great degree of moisture ; and in
order to attain the latter object,
the floor of the house, or the hot-
water pipe, should be frequently
sprinkled with water.
Horro\nta.—Primuldcee. —The |
Feather Foil, or Water Violet. An |
aquatic British plant, which pro-
duces a pretty effect from its pink
flowers, on the borders of ponds and
ditches, where the soil is gravelly.
Hounn’s Toneue.—See Cyno-
GLO’SSUM.
House Lerx.—See Semrervi'vum.
Housro'niaA.— Gentianee.— Pret-
ty little plants, natives of North
America, and suitable for rockwork.
They should be grown in peat soil

kept moist, and they are propagated
by dividing the roots.

Ho'vea.— Leguminose.—Beauti-
ful dwarf shrubs, natives of Aus-
tralia, which require a greenhouse
in Great Britain. They should be
grown ina mixture of sandy loam
and peat; and they may be propa-
gated by cuttings, which are rather
difficult to strike ; and which should
therefore be put under a bell-glass,
in pure sand, and plunged into a
hotbed.

Ho'ya. —— Asclepiaddeee. — The

has curious wax-like flowers, from
which drops a sweet, honey-like juice.
It is a hothouse climber, which re-

will not strike without the help of
bottom-heat. It is sometimes grown
in greenhouses, if in a warm situa-
tion, exposed to the sun. In this

case, it should be trained close to

the glass, and a mat, or some other

covering, thrown over the roof of

the house in severe weather.

Hupso\n1a. — Cistinee. — North
American heath-like shrubs, nearly
allied to the Helianthemums, which
require protection in England dur-
ing winter. They should be grown
in peat, and they are propagated by
cuttings struck in sand.

Hou'mea.— Composite. — Elegant
biennial plants, which should be

/sown on a slight hotbed in spring ;

then potted off and kept in the open
air during summer, and in the green-
house during winter, to be finally
planted in the open border in May
the second year. If the plants are
repotted three or four times during
the course of the first summer, al-
ways into only a little larger pots,
they will become so much stronger
before they are finally planted out
as amply to ae io the additional
trouble.

Hu'muwvs. — Urticdcea. — The
Hop. This plant, though generally

al

HYACINTHUS. 250 HYACINTHUS.

grown for the purpose of making! with those of the Hyacinths. Re-
beer, is a very ornamental climber,| move three or four inches of the
and very suitable for covering bow- ) soil, and then deposit three or four
ers, &c., from the great rapidity of | bulbs, one in the centre ange
its growth, and the deep shade af-| others round it, so as to form a
forded by its large and numerous’ centre not more than six inches in
leaves. It should be grown in a diameter. Press the roots firmly
rich and deep loamy soil, and it is | into the soil, and cover them, three
increased by dividing its roots. or four inches deep, with the soil, if

Hyacinru.—See Hyaci'nruus. | itis a common garden loam, and

Hyaci'nruus. — Asphodélee. —| five or six inches if itis a light sand.
The common garden Hyacinth, Hy-| Plant only roots of one colour to-
acinthus orientalis, is one of the | gether, and put in a stick to mark
most beautiful, as well as the most the spot, that they may not be in-
fragrant of flowers; and to a cer-| terfered with before they come up,

tain extent is also one of the easiest |
of culture for the amateur gardener.
The reason of this is, that the bulbs
are generally to be purchased at an)
easy rate in the seed-shops, and the |
leaves and flowers being prepared |
in the bulb during the previous year, |
it is only necessary to place the
bulbs in scil of any kind, or even on
the surface of vessels of water, to'|
produce a very fine flower. But
this will not ensure a bloom in the
following year, because that de- |
pends not only on the plant being |
placed in circumstances where it.
will flower freely, but also where it |
will produce abundance of healthy
leaves, and bring these to maturity. |
This is only to be done in beds
properly prepared for the purpose,
and under a proper system of man- |
agement. We shall first speak of |
the most common mode of growing
Hyacinths, viz.: in miscellaneous |
borders ; next, of the most perfect
mode of growing them—yviz., in!
beds of properly prepared soil—and,
lastly, of growing them in glasses |
of water.

Growing Hyacinths in miscella-
neous borders, among other flowers.
—Fix on the spots where they are’
to be planted, and loosen the earth.
to the depth of a foot with the spade, |
breaking it fine, and taking care |
that the roots of the adjoining plants
are cut off, so as not to interfere

when the bed is being dug over in
spring. The season for planting
Hyacinths is October or November ;
but even December is not too late

in mild seasons, and in favourable

situations. In general, no protec-

tion from frost is requisite; for the

Hyacinth is very hardy, and chiefly
suffers from too much water, from
snails, or from a disease called the
canker. In heavy clayey soils, a

small cone of soil may be raised

over the roots to throw off the rain ;
but when this is done, the cone
ought to be levelled down in Febru-
ary, before the plants come up; ot
a small gutter may be formed round
each circle of bulbs, to drain off t

wet. Where berders have a slop-
ing surface, both these precautions
are unnecessary ; and hence, in the
garden of the Zoological Society in
the Regent’s Park, Hyacinths are
planted in the sloping borders,
though the seil is a strong clay, in
autumn, and flower vigorously every
spring. Hyacinths thus treated will
produce very fine flowers the first
spring ; and, even though not taken
up, if they are not injured by can-
ker, or slugs, or the roots of adjoin-
ing plants during summer, they will
flower tolerably well the second, and
even sometimes the third year; ai-
ter which their flowers will become
every year weaker and weaker, till
at last the plants are not worth the

HYACINTHUS.

251

HYACINTHUS.

room they take up in the border
If it is wished to preserve the roots
im a vigorous state, they ought to
hagipken up after flowering when
the leaves have faded, and kept in
a dry airy shed, with the neck of the
bulb turned down ; and then plant-
ed in a properly-prepared bed in
autumn, where, after remaining two
years, they will have recovered their
vigour, and be fit to plant again in
the border. Planting Hyacinths in
miscellaneous borders is the most
convenient mode for amateurs, and
in general it produces the most

agreeable effect in a private garden ;

for beds of Hyacinths have more |

in such a manner as to throw off
the rain. Thus treated, the plants
will bloom with great vigour; and
to have the colours in the greater
perfection, the bed ought to be cov-
ered in the flowering season with a
tent or awning. But for amateurs,
the most convenient mode is to
form the bed of such a size as to be
| contained either in a common cu-
|cumber-frame with glass sashes,
which may be put on during heavy
rains, and also during sunshine;
tilting them at both ends to admit
a free circulation of air, and cover-
ing the glass with mats to exclude
‘the sun. Care must be taken to

the appearance of being cultivated | remove the glasses entirely during
for sale by a florist, though it must | cloudy weather, in order not to draw
be confessed that strong flowers are up the plants; and, for the same

produced in this way, and the effect,
considered by itself, is far more
splendid.

Beds of Hyacinths—The most |

convenient width is five feet; and
the length may be greater or less,
at pleasure. Five feet in width
will admit of four rows for the four
colours of red, white, blue, and yel-
low ; which should be six inches
apart between the rows, and the
bulbs may be placed at the same
distance from each other in the row.
‘The arrangement of “he colours
may be according to fancy, but the
common mode is never to have two
of a colour together. To prepare
the bed, dig out the scil to the depth
of three feet, and fill it up to one
foot above the surface with very
sandy loam mixed with leaf-mould,
cow-cung, or hotbed dung, thorough.
ly rotten. This may be done in
September; and in October six
inches of the soil may be removed,
and the bulbs planted; after which
the soil must be replaced. To pro-
tect the bulbs from too much wet
during the winter, the surface of the
bed should be gently sloped to each
side ; and during rainy weather it
may be covered with reeds or thatch,

reason, to take them off every night
| when the weather is dry. A com-
men cucumber-frame, of twelve
feet long and four feet wide, will
contain a yery handsome collection
|of Hyacinths; which may thus be
| grown to the highest degree of per-
fection, and protected from every
|exterior injury. As soon as the
| plants have done flowering, the
frame and glasses may be removed ;
and when the leaves have become
yellowish, the bulbs may be taken
| up, and each kind kept by itself, and
placed in an airy situation in the
shade till they are quite dry. After
this they shceuld be cleansed from
any soil that may stick to them,
and the fibreus roots, which will
have withered up, should be rubbed
off. The bulbs should then be laid
on a shelf of lattice work, with the
neck of the bulb downwards, or
placed in shallow wicker baskets,
and hung up in an airy shed or
room till wanted for use. If decay
or canker make their appearance,
the parts injured, if small, should
be cut out and the bulb laid aside to
dry ; but if the parts injured extend
far, the bulb should be thrown away
at once; as the disease is infectious,

HYACINIHUS.

252

HEYACINTHUS.

and will communicate itself to
healthy bulbs lying near the diseased
ones. Hyacinth bulbs are generally
fit for putting in baskets in the course
of the month of July, and the bed
being partially renewed with fresh
soil, they may be planted again in
September or October. A _ third
part of the soil being taken away,
and replaced by fresh soil every
year, the bed may continue to be
used for an unlimited period. Young
bul) or offsets will be produced
move or less every season, and these
may be taken off when the bulbs
are raised, laid by themselves, and
planted in a nursery-bed for a year ;
when they will have grown suifi-
ciently large to be fit for planting
in the flowering-bed. Single-flow-
ered Hyacinths, whether in mixed
borders or in beds, will generally
have a tendency to produce seeds;
but as these weaken the bulbs, the
flower-stalks should be cut off as
soon as the flowers have faded, or
the capsules ought to be stripped
off the flower-stalk with the hand
as soon as they appear; unless, in-
deed, it is wished to raise new sorts,
—in which case the seeds may be
allowed to ripen, and they should

be sown under glass as soon as they |

are ripe. They will come up the
following spring, and if carefully
transplanted and properly treated,
will produce flowers in from three
to five years.

Flowering Hyacinths in glasses
-of water is a very simple operation,
and may be effected by filling the
glass with water up to the neck;
and then placing the bulb in the
cup-shaped part of the glass in-
tended to receive it, and renewing
the water from time to time when
it begins to get muddy. When the
water is changed the bulb should
not be taken out, unless the roots
are short and few, but the hand
should be put over the top of the
glass so as to retain the bulb in its

-_

piace, and the water carefully and
slowly poured off. ‘This is done to
prevent any injury being done to
the long roots, as they are wery
brittle and easily broken, and the
plant is seriously injured by their
being in an imperfect state. When
one of the long roots is broken, it
should be cut off with a sharp knife
close to the bulb.

When Hyacinths are to be grown
in water-glasses, some persons think
it advisable first to plant the bulbs
in soil, and when they have made
roots of an inch or more in length,
to take them up, and wash the roots
before putting them in glasses; but
planting in a flowerpot generally
makes the roots spread, instead of
descending perpendicularly; and
thus, they can scarcely be put into
the glass without breaking. To
avoid this danger the bulbs should
be planted in loose sandy soil, and a
very deep pot. When the bulbs are
put into the water, without pre-
viously planting them in the ground,
the glasses may be kept in the dark,
till the roots begin to grow; but as

soon as this is the case, the glasses
'should be placed in a warm room
near the light, when the plants will
grow rapidly. Should the flower-
stems appear weak, they may be
supported by a slender prop fixed
in a disk of wood, on which the
| glass may be placed as its base; or
by any other elegant or convenient
means. In choosimg Hyacinths
for water-glasses, the red and blue
flowers are preferable to those which
are white or yellow ; the latter two
having a fragrance too powerful
for rooms, and, besides, they gene-
rally flower weaker in glass than
the others. In the windows of seed-
shops we sometimes see Hyacinths
or Narcissi with their flowers in-
verted in a glass of water, ap-
pearing as if they had grown in
that position. 'They are, however,
grown in the usual manner, with

> ee

HYACINTEUS.

2D

5 HYDRANGEA.

the glass inverted over the p:i in

which the flowei is grown, aid only

turned and the glass filled up with |

water after the flower has expand-

ed, the flower-pot being removed, |

and the bulb wrapped in wet moss.
Sometimes another flower appears

glass ; but this is grown in another
flowerpot in the usual way, and
only removed to the glass when it
is wanted to produce the proper
effect.
not be considered in good taste,
particularly at the present day,

Deceptions of this kind can- |

| room,
growing from the other end of the

|the leaves have decayed.

when people are so much better |
educated than formerly. Hyacinths |

flowered in water are seldom good

for much afterwards ; nevertheless, |

ifthe leaves are carefully preserved,

and the plants, immediately that |

they have done flowering, are plant-
ed in a nursery-bed, they will re-
cover their vigour in two or three
years. It is also said that sinking

the bulb entirely in water after it |

has done flowering invigorates it,
and will enable it to flower the
second year; but I have never had
an opportunity of proving this. A
very small portion of common salt
added to the water is said to acce-
lerate the growth of Hyacinths, and
to give a deeper green to their
leaves; and keeping the water
warm, say at a temperature of 60°,
is also said to promote their growth.
It must however be remembered,
that too much salt will kill the plants.

Growing Hyacinths in pots of
soil requires no particular care. To
ensure a vigorous growth, the pots
ought to be deeper than usual, and
they need not be much wider at the
top than at the bottom. The soil
ought to be a sandy loam, mixed
with rotten leaves or dung so thor-
oughly decayed as to have become
a kind of mould, and the pots ought
to be well drained. When first
planted, which ought to be in Sep-
tember, or any period between that

22

month and February, the bulbs may
be kept in a cool place, and cover-
ed with soil or rotten tan, till the
buds have begun to move; when
the pots may be taken to the green-
house or the windows of a warm
and if the soil be watered
with warm water they will grow
so much the faster. When the
plants have done flowering, they
may be turned out of the pots, with
the balls of earth unbroken, into
the common soil; and the bulbs
may be taken up and dried when
Bulbs
which have flowered in pots seldom
flower vigorously the second year ;
and unless the amateur has abun-
dance of room for a nursing-bed, and
leisure to manage it, it is better to
throw away at once bulbs which
have been flowered either in pots or
in water-glasses.

Hypra’ncea. — Sazxifragee. —
There are several kinds of Hy-
drangea, most of which are Amer-
ican shrubs, which are quite hardy
in British gardens. The kind best
known, however, and which is eall-
ed the Hydrangea, par excellence,
is a Chinese shrub, which 1s only
half-hardy in England. Botanists
call it Hydrangea Horténsia, the
specific name being given in honour
of a French lady, whose Christian
name was Hortense; and though
it is now so common, it has not
been introduced much more than
fifty years; the first plant of it
grown in Britain having been im-
ported from China by Sir Joseph
Banks, in 1789 or 1790, about the
same time as the tree Peony. The
Hydrangea, though nearly hardy,
is generally considered as a green-
house or window plant; and it is
admirably adapted for the latter
situation, as it is scarcely possible
to give it too much water, though
water may be withheld from it for
several days without killing it—the
plant reminding its possessor of its

HYOSCYAMUS.

IZERIS.

wants by its conspicuously drocping
leaves, and reviving rapidly when
water is given. It should be grown
in a rich soil, and its branches
should be cut in every year when
it has done flowering ; as, otherwise,
the branches are apt to become un-
sightly from losing their leaves near
the base.

Blue Hydrangeas are very much
admired, partly, perhaps, from the
difficulty of obtaining them, for no
plants can be more capricious.
Sometimes they come without any
trouble at all; sometimes applying
any one of the numerous recipes re-
commended will change the colour,
either directly or gradually; and
sometimes no care and no recipe
has the slightest effect, and the
flowers remain pink in spite of all
that can be done to turn them blue.
Water impregnated with alum,
steel-filings, sheep’s dung, wood-
ashes, peat-ashes, nitre, carbonate
of soda, or common salt, are all re-
commended, andall succeed—some-
times. The flowers are sometimes
turned blue by removing the plants
to a loamy soil, and sometimes by
planting them in peat. It is gene-
rally allowed that the fine yellow
loam found in some parts of Hamp-
stead and Stanmore Heaths, and
the peat of Wimbledon Common,
are sure to produce the desired ef-
fect ; asis also the peat of the bogs
near Edinburgh, and that of the
neighbourhood of Berlin and St.
Petersburgh ; but these soils are not
always to be procured when wanted.
Water in which tan has been steep-
ed is also very often successful ;
though, like the other recipes, it
cannot always be depended on.

Hypro’cuaris.— Hydrocharidee.
—Frogbit. A pretty little British
water-plant, with white flowers.

Hypro'prrer. — Water Pepper.
See Pory’conum.

Hyoscy‘amus. —Solandcee. — Hen-
“ene. The annual kinds are quite

hardy and will grow anywhere, but

they prefer a soil that is rich and
light. The English kinds are gen-
erally found on old dunghills or
heaps of mould from decayed vege-
tables. ‘The perennials also prefer a
light and rich, and yet deep soil;
and they are increased by dividing
the roots.

Hyrve/ricum.—Hypericacee.— St.
John’s Wort. The pretty yellow-
flowered shrubs and _ herbaceous
perennials known by this name at
the present day, were formerly in
high repute for driving away evil
splits; and on this account were
generally planted near dwelling-
heuses. They were also highly
valued for their medicinal properties,
being believed te have a powerful
effect in stopping blood and healing
wounds. The most common kind,
the Tutsan, or Park Leaves, is now
made into another genus, under the
name of Androsenum; but the
botanical distinction is very trifling.
All the kinds will thrive under the
drip of trees ; and they will grow in
| any soil and situation, though they
prefer moisture and the shade.
They are found in almost all the
temperate climates of the world;
|and they are propagated by sceds,
and by dividing the roots.

I.

Ige\ris.—Crucifere.—Candytuft.
Most of the kinds of Candytuft are
well-known annuals, which received
their name from J. umbelldta, the
first species grown as a garden

| flower, having been brought from
Candia. The seeds should be sown
in a rich light soil in autumn,
where they are to remain, and kept
rather dry during winter. They
should be repeatedly thinned out,
and in spring they should be water-
ed with liquid manure, taking care
| not to let the liquor touch the plants.

ILEX.

When the plants are about to flow-
er, those of the common kind should |
be six or eight inches apert every |
way at least; and those of J. corond-
ria, the Rocket Candytuft, should |
be from one to two feet apart; and |
thus treated, the flowers will be very
large and fine. When it is not |
thought advisable to take so much
trouble, the seeds may be sown very |
thin, either in autumn or early in

255

: | yellow, and even black fruit.

spring ; either alone, or mixed with
mignonette ; and in either case they |
will look very weil in the flower |
borders. The perennial and suffru-
ticose kinds are well adapted for
rock-work; and they are easily
propagated by cuttings, or dividing
the root.

Icevanp Moss.—Cetrdria islan-
dica.

Ice Prant.—See Mesemsrya’n-
THEMUM.

IcuneumMon Fiy.—A very elegant
slender creature, somewhat resem-
bling a gnat, which generally de-
posits its eggs in the living body of
a caterpillar. Great numbers of
caterpillars are thus destroyed every
year; and as the grub of the Ichneu-
mon does not feed upon vegetable
matter of any kind, it may thus be
regarded as a friend to gardeners,
and it should be spared accordingly.
There are several kinds of Ichneu-
mon Flies, some much larger than
others, but the habits of all are the
same.

I‘tex.—This name is frequently
applied in common conversation to
the Quércus Ilex, or evergreen oak ;
but it is properly the botanic name
of the Holly.

DLex.—Aquifolidcee.—A genus
of evergreen shrubs or low trees, of
which the most interesting is Ilex

IL LICIUM.

‘gated with cream colour, white, dif.
‘ferent shades of yellow, and slight
_ tinges of red; and others have white,
They
are all beautiful, and, being ever-
green and quite hardy, are reckoned
among the most ornamental of
British shrubs. ‘They grow slowly,

| but, as they are always erect and

compact, they are very valuable for
small gardens, where the plants
require to be kept within bounds.
The species are propagated by seeds,
which are kept a winter in rot-heap

| before they are sown ; and the varie-

ties are propagated by budding or
grafting on the species, and some-
times by cuttings. As, however, the
operation of propagation, whether
by seeds or otherwise, is slow, and,
in the case of budding and grafting,
somewhat difficult, amateurs will
always find it preferable to purchase
plants from the nurserymen. Hol-
hes will grow in any soil in an airy
situation, but they do not thrive in
coal smoke. ‘They prefer a loamy
soil, but they will grow in sand, and
also in strong clay ; and, though
not so well, on chalk or: limestone.
They make beautiful and permanent
hedges, elegant single trees and pic-
turesque groups; and, from the
closeness of their foliage, they are
very useful in shutting out any un-
pleasant objects. A Holly Hedge
is also well adapted for a street or
roadside garden; as, while it serves
as a screen, it has a cheerful look,
both in summer and winter.

Inui c1tum.— Winterdcee.— Half-
hardy shrubs, with very dark
strongly-scented flowers, which
smell like aniseed; and hence the
popular name applied to the genus,
of Amiseed Tree. Most of the

Aquifolium, or the Common Holly, | kinds come from China, and are
a native of Britain, with fine dark- | tender in British gardens ; but J.
green prickly leaves, and scarlet or | fléridum, an American species, is
coral-coloured berries. There are a very nearly hardy, only requiring
great many varieties of this shrub, > | Protection in severe winters. ‘They
some of which have leaves varie- | should all be grown in peat; and

OF

INARCHING.

they are generally increased by |
layers, though cuttings will strike
in heat, under a bell-glass.
Impa‘tiens.—Balsaminee.— Noli
me tangere. There are several
annual hardy species of this genus, |
most of which are natives of Europe |
and North America, and have yel- |
lowish flowers ; but some have lately |
been introduced with beautiful pink
flowers from India. They are all
distinguished by the seed-vessel |
springing open when it is touched,
and discharging the seeds. All the
kinds require a light soil, and abun-
dance of water; and they are all |
large and widely-spreading plants.
ImpLements.—Those requusite for |
Floriculture are chiefly, the spade; |
a three-pronged fork, with a long |
handle, and one with a short handle; |
the rake; the draw hoe, and thrust |
hoe ; the spud; the trowel; the |
dibber ; the pruning-knife, the |
budding-knife; the pruning-shears ;
the flower-gatherer ; the short-
grass scythe; and the roller. Be-
sides these, there are various uten-
sils, such as flower-pots of different
sizes ; watering-pots, with tubes
and roses of different kinds and
_ sizes; a syringe; a wire-sieve, with
the meshes about half an inch
square ; hand-glasses and_bell-
glasses ; baskets, wheelbarrows for
plants, and mould; handbarrows
for carrying large pots or boxes ;
fumigating bellows ; a tin box for
dusting plants with lime or powdered
tobacco-leaves ; a small painter’s
brush, for applying sulphur or soap-
suds ; and a sponge for cleaning the
leaves of plants. These are the or-
dinary implements and utensils ;
but on a large scale there are some
others which may be added, such
as the transplanter, averuncator, the
garden-engine, the bill, the hedge-
shears ; the last two of which are,
however, seldom used by ladies.
Inarcuine—A species of graft-
ing, in which the scion is only

6 INARCHING.

partially separated from the parent
plant ; in such a manner, that while

it is uniting with the stock, it derives

a portion of its nourishment from
the plant to be propagated. For
this purpose the stock is either
planted near the parent, or if in a
pot, it is placed near it in such a
manner that a branch from the
scion can be readily joined to the
stock. ‘The stock is sometimes cut
over immediately above its point of

‘junction with the branch joined to

it ; but more frequently the stock is

left at length. The stock may either

be united to the scion by notching
the one into the other, as in notch-
grafting ; or simply by paring a
portion of the bark and wood from
both scion and stock, and splicing
them together, as in side-grafting.
In either case the scion is made
fast to the stock by tying them to-
gether with strands of matting, and
the graft so formed is covered with
moss tied on, or with grafting-clay,
or grafting-wax. After a certain
period, the scion and stock unite,
when the former is separated from
the parent, and the stock is cut over
a little above the graft. After some
further time, when the scion begins
to grow vigorously, the stock is cut
close over above the point of union,
and the section left becomes in time
covered with bark. Inarching is

only adopted in the case of woody

plants that grow with difficulty
when grafted in the usual manner.

|The conditions of growth are the

same as in independent g-afting—
viz., that the inner or soft wood of
the stock must be placed exactly on
that of the scion, to ensure their
union. Inarching is generally ap-
plied to Camellias ; and any person
who has visited Messrs. Loddiges’,
at Hackney, Messrs. Chandler’s, in
the Vauxhall-road, or, in fact, any
of the great Camellia growers, in
April or May, must have seen some
of the large old plants of the supe-

INOCULATING. 2

$$

INSECTS.

rior kinds, surrounded by a number | the imtervening spaces are sown

uf pots of the common single red, sup-
ported at different heights, for the
convenience of reaching the different
branches to which they have been
united by inarching. 'The mode of
grafting shown in fig. 30, p. 233, has
all the advantage of marching, the
scion being nourished by the water
in the same way as it would be by
its roots, in the case of inarching.

Inpian Corn.—See Zr'a.

Inpran Cress.—Nee ‘Trop#‘oLum.

Inpian Fic.—See Opu'ntia.

InprAN SHot.—See Ca’nna.

Inpieo is formed from the leaves
of an Indian plant, called Indigo-
fera tinctoria, belonging to the order
Leguminose, and it requires a stove
in England. The false Indigo,
Amorpha, also belongs to Legumi-
nose; and some of the species are
hardy shrubs or low trees. See
Amo’RPHA.

I'nea.— Leguminése.— Beautiful
plants, nearly allied to the genus
Mimdsa, with silky, tassel-like
flowers. All the species are stove-
shrubs, and should be grown in a
mixture of loam and peat. They
are propagated by cuttings, taken off
at a joint, and struck in pure sand,
under a bell-glass, and plunged in a
hotbed, or in tan, to afford them
bottom-heat.

InocuLatinc.—This term, when
applied to plants, is generally used
as equivalent to that of Budding,
which see in p. 135; but it is also
applied to a mode of creating a
grassy surface, either for a lawn or
a pasture-field, by distributing frag-
ments of turf taken from an estab-
lished pasture over a newly-formed
surface. Supposing the surface
which it is intended to form into a
lawn, to be levelled, dug, and
smoothed, rolls of turf are procured
from any suitable meadow or pas-
ture, and cut into pieces, and laid
down on the prepared surface at a

foot or a foot and a half apart ; and
22*

with grass-seeds, and the whole
firmly rolled. The pieces of turf
give an immediate character of
grassy surface, and they are united
in the course of a season by the
growth of the intervening grass-
seeds. It may be asked, why not
use the grass-seeds alone, and save
the expense of the turf?) The only
answer to which is, that the pieces
of turf being green from the com-
mencement, anticipate in idea the
future effect that will be produced,
and make sure of a grassy surface
in case the grass-seeds should fail.
The practice originated in Norfolk,
and it is sometimes adopted in agri-
culture as well as in gardening.

Inoculating lawns with mush-
room spawn is a practice sometimes
adopted in gardens in the country,
and affords at once a source of
amusement in collecting the mush-
rooms, and of profit from their use-
fulness in the kitchen. It may be
adopted in the case of any lawn,
whether old or newly-formed. A
few spawn bricks, as they are called,
are procured from any person that
grows mushrooms, or from the seed-
shops ; and these, being first broken
into fragments, are inserted in the
soil, either at a foot or a yard apart,
according as it is wished to have the
ground wholly or partially covered
with mushrooms. The fragments
are inserted about two inches in
depth, and the turf is firmly pressed
over them with the foot. The opera-
tion occasions no derangement of
the turf, and it may be performed
with the corner of a spade ora trowel.
The time is April or May, and the
mushrooms will make their appear-
ance inthe September or October
following. ‘The turf is not injured,
and much amusement is sometimes
produced by the unexpected appear-
ance of the mushrooms.

Insects are extremely destructive
to flower-gardens, particularly those

INSTRUMENTS.

258

IPOMG@A.

belonging to the section Lepidoptera,
which includes the butterflies and |

moths. Some of the Coleoptera, or
beetles, are also very injurious,
while in the grub state. It would |

take too much space in a work like
the present, to give even the names
of all the insects which injure flow-
ers ; but some of the most destruc-
tive are mentioned by their popular
names as they occur in the alpha-
betical series, and a few words said
on each. Entomology should,
however, be studied by every one
who loves flowers ; as it is of great
service to the florist to know these
destructive creatures under all their
changes. It is true that insects are,
in most cases, only injurious in the
caterpillar state; but often, by de-
stroying a chrysalis,—or a moth, or
butterfly, before it has had time to
lay its eggs, the mischief which
would have been done by the brood
which would be raised from them
may be prevented.

InstRUMENTs differ from imple-
ments in having steel edges or
blades, and in cutting wood instead
of separating soil. ‘Those required
for the flower-garden are knives
of different kinds, cutting-shears,
flower-gatherers, the scythe for
mowing, and the bill, or the bill-
hook, for cutting hedges. Knives
are of many different kinds, and
formerly all garden-knives were
hooked at the extremity of the
blade. It is now found, however,
that this hooked form has a tendency
to tear rather than to cut, and the
best modern knives of every de-
scription have a straight cutting
edge, and a sharp point rather than
a rounded one. ‘Those which are
used for pruning or cutting, generally
have no particular form of handle ;
but those which are used for budding
or grafting have an ivory handle,
which terminates in a flat chisel-
like form, for raising up the bark,
~when inserting buds. In general, it

|

may be sufficient to observe that a
_pruning-knife should have the ex-
treme end of the handle thicker than
the end next the blade, in order that
it may never slip through the hands
of the operator ; and that it should
be somewhat curved to givea greater
purchase. A few glances at the
cutler’s, or in the seed-shops, would
give a better idea of the sort of
knives which an amateur ought to

procure, than a page of directions ;

but purchasers should be cautioned
against all complex forms, in which
a number of blades, including saws
and chisels, and sometimes also
screw-drivers, gimlets, and re
mers are included in the same han
dle. An excellent substitute for Med
knife for the lady gardener is found
in the pruning-shears with a slidmg
motion, by which, what is called a
draw-cut is produced, instead of
what is called a crushing-cut, which
bruises the bark, and renders the
wound difficult to heal over.—See
Pruninc SuHears.

Inu‘La. — Composite. — Elecam-
pane. Some of the foreign species
of this genus are very showy plants,
all with orange-yellow flowers, and
large coarse stalks and leaves. They
are only suitable for large gardens
cr shrubberies, where they can have
plenty of room. They will grow in
any common garden soil, and they
are increased by seeds, or dividing
the root.

Troma@‘a.—Convolvulacee. — Beau-
tiful climbing plants, herbaceous and
shrubby, which should be brought
forward in a stove or hotbed ; though
when they have formed their flower-
buds, many of them may be planted
out in May to flower in the open a
All the species should be grown
a light soil, well manured cai! e-
cayed leaves, or the very rotten part
of an old hotbed. Two beautiful
kinds are J. ribro-c@rilea, a half-
hardy annual, which, if planted cut
in @ warm berder, will flower beau

IPOMOPSIS.

tifully in the open air; and £. or
Pharbitis Ledrii, which will only
flower in astove. Both these kinds
produce an astonishing number of
flowers, though each flower lasts
only one day, and sometimes, if
too much exposed to the sun, only
a few hours; and both grow with
great rapidity and vigour. JI. Learii
is, however, a shrub, and is propa-
gated by cuttings, which strike
rapidly by the aid of a little bottom-
heat. J. ficifolia resembles these
species, but it has darker flowers,
which will expand in greenhouse-
heat, and which live two or three
_days. It is shrubby, and continues
flowering tillautumn. J. Horsféllie
s also a most splendid climber. It
should be grown in a moist stove, in
rich light loam, and allowed plenty
of water while growing. It thrives
best when grafted on I. insignis,
and when grown on its own roots,
it should be cut down every year to
within a few inches of the ground.
Another species, J. tyriénthina, has
very rich dark flowers, which it
produces in great abundance.
Tromo'psts. — Polemoniacee. —
Beautiful biennial Peruvian plants,
with splendid searlet flowers, which
Professor Don, and some other bo-
tanists, class with the Gilias; and
which were formerly called Cantua.
‘They are free-growing plants; but
as they are supposed to require
protection during winter, they are
generally grown in pots in England,
and kept in a greenhouse. In
America, however, it appears that
these plants are found in a wild
state in Georgia ; and that they are
left in the open gr ound all the winter,
without any protection, in the neigh-
bourhood of Boston, where the plants
attain a size, (seven feet high,) and
the flowers a brilliancy of colour
quite unknown in Europe. They
should be grown in a light and
somewhat rich soil; and care should
be taken to prevent their roots from

259

ISATIS.

becoming sodden with water, as
| when this is the case, they are very
/apt to damp off.

Iris. — Jriddcea. — There are
three distinct kinds of Iris, besides
innumerable species, hybrids, and
varieties. These are, the fibrous-
rooted kinds, which grow best in a
fine sandy loam, and which increase
rapidly every year by suckers frem
the roots; the tuberous-rooted kinds,
which are very apt to be destroyed
by snails, or to ret from too much
wet ; and the bulbous-rooted kinds,
which should be taken up and re-
planted every second or third year,
as the new bulbs, which are formed
every season, are always directly
under the old bulb; and thus in the
course of a few years the bulbs
descend so low as to be out of the

‘reach of the air, and consequently

incapable of vegetation. Thus it
will be generally found that persons
in the habit of growing Irises, are
always complaining of losing their
plants, while the real fault rests with
themselves for not taking up their
bulbs at the proper time. The
bulbous and tuberous-reoted Inises
succeed best in sandy peat, or in
any light and dry soil. The splen-
did Chalcedonian Iris is one of the
tuberous-reoted kinds; and it not
only requires a dry soil during win-
ter, but to be allowed plenty of pure
air during the whole period of its
growth, or it will be very apt to
damp off.

Irish Ivy.—The Giant Ivy, I.
canariénsis, which, though called
Irish, is, in fact, a native of the
Canary Islands.

Irish YeEw.—The upright grow-
ing Yew, which forms a flame-
shaped tree like the upright cypress,
or Lombardy poplar, instead of
spreading like the common kinds.
When young, it makes a very hand-
some shrub, from the fine colour and
luxuriance of its foliage.

Isa‘vis.—Crucifere.— I. tincto-

7

IXTA.

ria, the Woad, is a British plant,

260

used for dyeing blue, and which |
looks well in a miscellaneous border |

er shrubbery. Some of the species

are dwarf plants, very suitable for

rockwork.
Isoro‘con.—Protedcee.—Austra-

lian plants, with very curious leaves |

and flowers, nearly allied to Banksia.
They should be grown in peat and
sand, mixed with a little turfy loam,

and the pot should be a third filled |
with potsherds broken small. These |

plants are very difficult to cullivate,
as they are very apt to damp off;
the cuttings also are extremely
difficult to strike.

Iso’roma.— Lobeliicee.— Annual
and biennial plants, which may be

/ sown in the open ground, or brought

4

forward in a hotbed, and planted
out in May. J. avxilléris is a most
beautiful and elegant plant, the
flowers of which look like a large
lilach jasmine.

I'vea.——EHricécee.—A litile hardy
American shrub, which requires
peat soil in British gardens.

Tvy.—See He’pera.

I’x1a. — friddcee. — Bulbous-
rooted plants, with very beautiful
flowers, which vary exceedingly
in colour and form. They are all
natives of the Cape of Good Hope,
and they are generally grown in
pots in greenhouses ; but as, when
thus treated, their slender stems are
apt to become etiolated, and conse-
quently very weak, they do much
better in the open garden, treated in
the following manner, in the climate
of London :—A bed of any width
and breadth that may be required,
should be dug out to the depth of
two or three feet, according to the
nature of the sail, a retentive clay
requiring to be dug deepest. This
bed should have a third part of its
depth filled with pebbles, brick- ae
or any other draining material.
stratum of fresh turfy loam etal

IXORA.

of rotten cow-dung, so as to fill the
bed to within about a quarter of its
depth from the surface ef the ground.
The bed should then be filled with
a mixture of light turfy loam and
sand, the loam being broken or
chopped small, but not sifted. The
surface of the bed should be raised
two or three inches above the level
of the surrounding border; and it is
most desirably situated, if backed
by a south wall, and sloping from
the wall to the gravel-walk. In this
bed the Ixia roots should be planted
in quincunx ; and if they are pro-
tected by a thatched covering raise
on 2 slight wooden frame duri
winter, they may be left in
ground several years without sus-
taining any injury. In the north of
England, or in any cold wet climate,
the Ixias may be planted in October
in pots, well drained, with a layer
of cow-dung over the drainage, and
filled up with a mixture of turfy
loam and sand. The Ixias should
be planted three in each pot; and
the pots should be plunged into a
hotbed, and covered with a glass
frame during winter. In spring, the
glasses may be gradually removed,
and when the flowers are nearly
ready to expand, the pots may be
removed to the greenhouse, or the
window of a sitting room. Where
the soil of a garden is a fat yellow
loam, or a chalky or other porous
subsoil, and the situation dry and
yet sheltered, the bulbs may fre-
quently be planted in the open
ground, and left there for years,
without any other care than cover-
ing them with a heap of dead leaves —
during winter. ,
Ixo‘ra.— Crassuléceea.—Splendid
stove plants. The history 0 fi

the genus, is rather curious. TI
a native of China, and some of the
| East India islands, where it is wor-
shipped as a sacred plant ; and where

be laid on this, and above it astratum | it is said to form a small tree about

JACKSONIA. 261

six feet high, rising with a single

stem, and having its head formed |

entirely of clusters of bright scarlet

and yellow flowers, whence it has.

received the names of Flamma
Sylvudrum, and the Tree of Fire.

This plant was first introduced in |
1690; but it was soon lost, and its |
existence was even doubted till it was |

re-introduced about a hundred years

afterwards by the celebrated Doctor |
After this, seeds were |
‘land.
the plant was so much admired that |

Fethergill.
obtained by several nurserymen, and

it was sold for several years at five
guineas each. It is now common

collections, but it is rather diffi- |

lt to keep; as, though it requires
a moist heat, it will die if its roots
are suffered to retain any stagnant
moisture among them, and it must
not be plunged either in tan or ina
hotbed. It is also very liable to be
attacked by insects.

iy

Jaca or Jack Tree.—A species
of Ar‘ocarpus, or bread-fruit.

Jacara'NDA.— Bignonidcee. — A
climbing plant, a native of Brazil,
with beautiful lilach flowers, shaped
like those of the Catalpa. The
wood is said to be the rosewood of
commerce. In England it requires
a stove. It should be grown ina

mixture of loam and peat, and it
should be kept nearly dry during
winter.

It is propagated by cut-
‘hich should not be deprived
eaves, and which must be
in pure sand under a glass.
ersons suppose the rosewood
e a kind of Mimosa.
Jackso'Nia. —Legumindse.—Auns-
tralian shrubs, generally kept in a
greenhouse in England, and which
should be grownin peat. They are
easily propagated by cuttings.

JASMINUM.

Jaconz‘a. —The plant usually
called by this name is a species of
Senécio, or Groundsel. It is also eall-
ed Purple Ragwort. See Sene‘cio

Jacosza Liny.—A splendid bul-
bous-rocted plant, formerly called
by botanists Amaryllis formosissima,
but the name of which is now
changed to Sprexe‘xia, which see.

Jacqui’ nia. — Myrsinee. — West
Indian trees and shrubs, with showy
flowers, requiring a stove in Eng-
They should be grown in
loam and sand, and are propagated
by cuttings.

Jatap.—The plant producing Ja-
lap was formerly supposed to bea
kind of Marvel of Peru; but it is
now discovered to be a kind of Con-
volvulus, or Ipomea.

Jamusos, or the Rose Apple—A
kind of Eugenia, belonging to the
order Myrtacee.

Jasmine.—See Jasmi‘num.

Jasmi'num.—Oleinee—The Jas-
mines are shrubs remarkable for
their fragrant flowers ; and the com-
mon species, Jasminum officindle ~~
is one of our most vigorous-growing
wall-evergreens, though a native
of India. There are several spe-
cies hardy in British gardens, but
the greater number require the
greenhouse or stove. ‘The principal
hardy species is that already men-
tioned. It well deserves a place
against the wall of a house, or the
piers of a veranda, which it will
cover ina very short time; or if
planted agaist trellis-work, or
against the frame-work of a bower,
it will soon afford an agreeable shade,
and produce its long, graceful, deep-
green shoots, in such quantities, as,
after covering the bower, to hang
down to the ground all round it, and
require to be separated like a cur-
tain by a person entering. This
plant and the common Ivy, when
trained up a single post, with a
spreading umbrella top of frame-
work, form some of the finest ob-

a

JET D’EAU.

JUNIPERUS.

ras

jects in small gardens by their pen-
dent branches, which not only hang
down from a height of from fifteen
feet or twenty feet to the ground,
but trail along it to a considerable
distance. Like the Ivy, the com-
mon Jasmine is an evergreen: not,
however, from its leaves, but the
deep green colour of its shoots.
The flowers are white, and very
fragrant, and yield an oil similar to
that produced by J. grandiflérum.
J. revolitum is a native of Nepaul,
with yellow blossoms, and thrives
against a wall, where it grows with
great vigour, covering a large space
in ashorttime. J. friticans and J.
hitimile are upright border shrubs,
with yellow flowers, deciduous
leaves, but deep green shoots. J.
grandiflorum is a hothouse shrub
that bears a good deal of resem-
blance to the common Jasmine, and
yields the Oil of Jasmine of the shops.
J. odoratissimum, from the Azores,
has yellow and very fragrant flow-
ers and broad evergreen leaves. J.
azoricum, a native of Madeira, re-
quires the greenhouse, has white
flowers, and is very fragrant; and
J. Sambac, a stove species, of which
there is a variety with double flow-
ers, is most fragrant during the
night. It is to this species that
Moore alludes in his beautiful lines
on the Jasmime. ‘There are several
other species, but all are climbers
excepting J. friiticans and J. hi-
mile, already mentioned. They will
all thrive in any common garden-
soil, mixed with leaf-mould; and
they may be all propagated by cut-
tings planted in sand, and covered
with a hand-glass.

Jerrerso'nia. — Podophyllacee.
—An American marsh plant, which
is generally grown in peat-soil, kept
moist. It is increased by seeds, or
dividing the root.

JERUSALEM Sace.—See Puto‘mis.

Jer p’Eav.—A fountain, which
consists of a single column of wa-

ter, rising straight up out of the
ground. See Founrains.

Jonquit.—A kind of Narcissus.

Jupas Tree—Ceércis Siliquas- ,
trum.—A low tree, producing nu- ©
merous racemes of beautiful pink
flowers, from the old wood of the
trunk and branches. It grows free-
ly in any common garden soil, but
prefers a warm and sheltered situa-
tion; and it flowers best against a
wall. The flowers have an agree-
able and slightly acid taste; and
they are eaten in France, fried in
batter, as fritters. ‘There are seve-
ral varieties, but the only distinet
species is C. canadénsis, a nati ,
of North America. As these pla ,
bear abundance of seed, and grow —
rapidly, they are often raised from
seed; and hence the great number
of varieties. They may also be
propagated by layers.

Jususe Tree. — The lozenges
called Jujube are made from the
fruit of Zizyphus vulgaris, which
ripens abundantly in the neighbour-
hood of Paris; but the real Jujube-
tree is Z. Jujuba, a native of the
East Indies, which requires a stove
in Europe. Both are neazly allied
to Palitirus, or Christ’s Thorn.

Juizrissin.—This beautiful tree,
which is a kind of Acacia, is called
the Silk Tree, from the abundance
and silkiness of its long, fine, tassel-
like blossoms. It is rather tender
in England, but it grows freely in
Italy. See Aca‘cta.

Juniper —See Juni’PERvs,

Juni'perus.—Conifere § Cupres-
sinee.—The Juniper. Evergreen
shrubs, natives of different parts of
the world, but most of y wh ar
hardy in British gardens. 1]
thrive in common soil, mixe
sand, or in heath-mould ; a
are generally propagated by seeds,
though they will all root from eut-
tings. J. commiinis, a native of
Britain, of which there are several
varieties, is a very common hardy

JUSSIEUA. 263

evergreen, sometimes found in the

form of a low bush, and at others
in that of a conical tree, like the
Cypress. It bears clipping, makes
excellent garden hedges, and was
formerly cut into a great variety
of shapes. The fruit is used through-
out Europe to flavor ardent spirits
(the spirit called Hollands being
made from it), and the wood is
burned in ovens or kilns to flavour
dried beef, hams, or fish. J. vir-
ginidna, the Red Cedar, is one of
the most common of small ever-
green trees, or large shrubs. It is
raised from seeds, and the male and
female plants being of ‘different
sizes, the individuals vary exceed-
ingly, in form and their manner of
growth; so that a number of plants
of this species may exist in a shrub-
bery or pleasure-ground, and yet
not two of them be alike. J. ex-
célsa is a tall, Cypress-lke shrub,
or low tree, very hardy and very
ornamental. J. recurva, a native
of Nepaul, is a very elegant plant,
with drooping shoots, well adapted
for cemeteries. It is one of the
hardiest of the species, and thrives
even in the smoke of London. J.
Sabina, the common Savin, is one
of our most ancient garden shrubs,
being almost the only coniferous
evergreen planted in the time of
Queen Elizabeth; and there are
several varieties of this species, all
of which are beautiful. The fra-
grance of all the Junipers is resinous
and refreshing, and many of the
kinds are used in medicine. The
wood used in making lead pencils
is generally that of the red cedar;
or of the Barbadoes Cedar, Cedréla
odordta, which last is a stove-plant
in England. ’
Juriver’s Bearp. — Anthy/llis
Barba Jovis—An ornamental, low
shrub, which will grow in any com-
mon garden-soil, and is propagated
by cuttings.

dussizv‘a.— Onogradrie.— Aquatic

KALMIA.

shrubs, with large yellow flowers,
resembling those of the Cinothera,
or yellow evening primrose. Na-
tives of South America, and only
half-hardy in Britain. See Aqua-
rium and WarTeErR Puants.
Justi'c1a.—Acanthacee. — Stove
plants, with showy and curious flow-
ers. They require a rich hght soil,
or a mixture of loam and peat; and
flower freely with moderate care.
They are propagated by cuttings,
which strike readily in sand, under
a hand-glass, and with bottom-heat

K.

Ka'tu1a.— Ericdcee.—The Cali-
co Laurel. Low shrubs, with beau-
tiful flowers ; natives of North Amer-
ica. ‘They may be grown with per-
fect safety in ‘the open air, or they
may be kept in a greenhouse and
forced, so as to flower in February.
They are generally grown in peat
earth, on account of their numerous,
hair-like, fibrous roots; and they
may be removed even when in flow-
er, without injury, if sufficient care
be taken. They are propagated by
layers, or by seeds, which are re-
ceived every year in large quanti-
ties from America. The seeds
should be sown in pots, in sandy
peat, or heath-mould, as it is called ;
and they should be very thinly cov-
ered. When the plants come up,
they should be transplanted into
other pots, putting three in each,
and they should not be removed to
the open ground till they are five or
six inches high. They should be
planted out in sprmg—{Kalmia
latifolia is the common Laurel of
the United States, and is certainly
one of the most beautiful of ever-
greens, whetner we regard the deep
verdure of its foliage, or the deli-
cacy and abundance of its flowers.
Those who would succeed in trans-
planting it from its native woods

KENNEDYA. 264

must take the precaution before-
hand to prepare a rich bed or bor-
der of leaf-mould and common
soil—using one-fourth only of the
latter ; and plant them in this, in
groups or masses of considerable
size. ‘Thus treated they will thrive
and blossom finely, while they will
only dwindle, and finally perish, in
the common soil of the borders,
however rich it may be.—Eb.]
Kauosa'nrueEs. — Crassuldcee.—
Mr. Haworth’s name for Crassula
coccinea, and some of the allied
species. See Cra’ssuna.
Kautru'ssia. — Composite. — A
beautiful little annual, resembling
an aster; the ray florets of which
curl curiously back after it has been
expanded a short time. ‘This plant
was formerly considered half-hardy ;
but it is found only to require sow-
ing in the open border in April, to
flower in May or early in June. Its
beauty is, however, very short-lived ;
as its flowers have generally all
faded, and its seeds ripened before
the end of July. It has been named
Charieis by Professor De Candolle,

_ but the name has not been generally
_ adopted.

Keei.—The lower part of the
flower of a pea-flowered plant, con-
sisting of two petals, so closed to-
gether as to resemble a little boat.

Kenne‘pya. — Leguminose.—A
genus of well-known plants, with
showy flowers, which has been lately
divided by Mr. Bentham into four
new genera, viz.: the Harden-
bergias, comprising those with small
bluish or lilach flowers on slender
branches, the type of which is K.
monophy'lla; the Zichyas, having
bunches of broad reddish flowers,
with very short keels, as for ex-
ample, K. coccinea; the Kennedyas,
with large scarlet or crimson flow-
ers, having long keels; and the
Physalobiums, having flowers a good
deal like those of the Zichyas, but
with bladdery capsules. All the

KNIVES.

Kennedyas are Australian climbing
or trailing shrubs, which require a
greenhouse in England, and should
be grown in heath-mould, or very
sandy loam, mixed with peat. They
are propagated by cuttings, which
strike readily in sand, under a bell-
glass.

Ke'rria.— Rosdcee.— By some
mistake, Kérria japonica was at
first supposed to belong to Corcho-
rus, a genus of Tiliacee, and of
course nearly allied to the Lime-
tree; to which it bears no resem-
blance, though it is still called
Corchorus japonica in the nurseries.
It is also singular, that though the
double-flowered variety was intro-
duced into England in 1700, the
species was not intreduced till 1835.
It is a delicate little shrub, too
slender to support itself in the open
air ; but when trained against a wall,
flowering in great profusion. It
should be grown in a light rich soil,
and it is propagated by cuttings.

Kipney Vetcu.—See Anruy'L- -

LIS.
Knapweep.—Centairea scabiosa.
Kwavu‘t1a.— Dipsdcee@.—One spe-

cies is a very pretty little flower,

requiring only the usual treatment
of hardy annuals.

Knieur’s Star.—A kind of Ama-
ryllis, considered by some authors
as forming a separate genus called
Hippeastrum.

Knives are used in gardening for
pruning, and also for budding and
grafting. Pruning - knives were
formerly characterized by hooked
blades ; but, as I have already men-
tioned under the article Instruments,
straight-edged blades are now pre-
ferred, as making a aner cut.
The best description of budding-
knife has a straight blade, the up-
per half of the back having also a
cutting edge, and the handle is ter-
minated by a rounded end. Some-
times a knife is made to serve as
both a budding and grafting knife,

KOCHIA. 265

LABLAVIA.

as shown in fig. 34. A great vai e-
ty ef garden-knives, of improved

annual plant, formerly much culti-
vated in gardens, to gather for beau-

const’ ctions, are manufactured by | pots to place in the fire-places dur-

‘

Fig. 34.—Grafting Knife, with the portion of
the back of the blade from + to-+ ground
to a cutting edge, so as to hanks it serve
also for a budding knife,

Messrs. Rogers and Sons, cutlers,
Sheffield; and pruning-shears, of
excellent kinds, by Messrs. Wilkin-
son, of the same place.
Knowtrto'nia. — Ranunculdcee.
—Half-hardy perennial plants, na-
tives of the Cape of Good Hope,
nearly allied to Adonis vernalis.
They should be grown in peat,
mixed with a little leam ; and they
are increased by dividing the roots.
Ko'cu1a.—Chenopodidcee.—Bel-
videre or Summer Cypress. An
23

ing summer; but which now is
rarely seen About a century ago
many plants were grown for these
large beaupots, but as they are now
no longer used, the flowers that
were to supply them are neglected.
Kochia is quite hardy, and only re-
quires sowing in the open ground.
Korrevrerta. — Sapinddcee. —
A middle-sized deciduous tree, a
native of China, but quite hardy in
British gardens, and very orna-
mental from its large variously-
divided foliage, and its conspicuous
terminal compound spikes of rich
yellow flowers. These are freely
produced in the climate of London,
and are often succeeded by blad-
dery capsules, which contain seeds ;
and from these, or cuttings of Pe
roots, it is readily propagated.
will grow in any soil, and does oe
altogether dishke coal smoke.
Ko'niga.-Crucifere—The Sweet
Alyssum. A pretty little annual,
with white sweet-scented flowers,
often used as an edging plant to beds
and borders. It only requires so
ing in the open ground in March.

i;

LaBELs are pieces of wood, parch-
ment, or metal, bearing the name
of the plants, and tied to them
When the names are affixed to a
piece of wood or metal, stuck into
the ground, they are called tallies ;
and of these there are many kinds
See Tatty.

Lasxa\vis.— Legumindse.—The
Egyptian Bean, ” formerly called
Dolichos Lablab, but now Lablavia
vulgéris. A half-hardy annual
climbing plant, or biennial plant,
which only requires the usual treat-
ment of similar plants It has a
very showy flower.

ae

ay

LAGERSTREMIA.

266.

LASIOPETALUM.

Lasu'rnum.—See Cy'risus.

Lacesark.—See Lace'tTa

Lacuena ‘tia. — Asphodélee. —
Cape bulbs, with very showy flow-
ers. They will not heed taking up
in winter; but must be grown in
pets in a greenhouse, and allowed
very little water at that season. They
are generally grown inloam and peat,
mixed with a little leaf-mould.

La‘panum, or Labdanum. — A
gum produced by some of the kinds
of Cistus, different from Laudanum,
which is a preparation from Opium,
and made from the Poppy.

Lapies Bepstraw.—See Ga'‘Lium.

Lapies Mantie—See ALCHE-
MILLA.

Lapies’ Suipper.—See Crprirr’-
DIUM.

Lapies’ Traces._See Spina NTHES.
Lapy Birp.—See Coccine'Lia.

1# LIA. — Orchidaceae. — A very
beautiful epiphyte, which may be

grown with its roots wrapped in|
moss, and fastened on a piece of |
'they resemble those of the Meze-

wood ; or in the husk of a cocoa-
nut. The flowers are extremely
beautiful and very delicate.
Orcuipeous Epipnyres.

Lacena‘aia. — Cucurbitacee. —
The Bottle Gourd. An East Indian
species of Gourd, which is some-

times grown on account of its cu- |

rious shape; but the pulp of which
is poisonous.
Lacerstre@ mia.— Lythrariee, or
Salicarig.—The Pride of India.
Beautiful trees, with flowers some-
thing like those of the Clarkia in
form, but much more brilliant in
colour. L. indica is generally grown
in the stove, but the other species

See |

fusely during midsummer. At the
approach of winter, they are again
placed in their tubs and removed
into a cool part of the greenhouse
or a warm cellar. As far north as
Philadelphia they will endure the
open air at all seasons, the branches
and trunks being sheathed with
straw or mats in winter.—Ep.]
Lace'rra. — Thymedlee. — The
Lacebark Tree. A shrub or low
tree, a native of Jamaica, remark-
able for its liber or inner bark. This
inner bark slips off the wood with-
out difficulty ; and its fibres, which
are extremely fine, are so tough, that
they will admit of being spread out
without breaking or separating, till
the bark becomes so Jace-like in its
texture, that Charles II. had a collar
and ruffles made of it. In England
the plant requires a stove, and to be
grown in a mixture of loam and
peat. It is propagated by cuttings,
which are rather hard to strike.
The flowers are white, and in shape

reon ; but instead of being produced
in clusters round the stem, they
grow on a kind of spike, far apart
from each other.
La‘mium.—Labidte.—The Dead
Nettle. Annual and perennial plants
that are quite hardy in the open
ground in Britain ; but which suc-
ceed best in a light rich soil.
Lanta\na.—- Verbendcee.—-Green-
house and hothouse plants, with
pretty flowers, nearly allied to the
Verbenas ; and the half-hardy ones
requiring the same treatment. See
Ve'RBENA. :
Lareyrou'sta.—Jridécee.—Cape

succeed if planted in the open ground | bulbs, with pretty flowers, which

in a conservatory.

[L. indica is| may be planted in a warm border,

familiarly known as the Crape Myr- | and left in the ground during win-

tle ; and both this and the Pome-

ter, if protected during that season

granate are favourite half-hardy | by a handglass, &c., from frost or
shrubs, which add greatly to the | heavy rain.

beauty of our gardens in summer,
—being planted out in the open air

Larxsrur.—See Dexpni'nium.
Lasiope'TaLuM. — Bytternidcee.

in spring, where they bloom pro-|—Australian low shrubs, which re-

ee

LAURUS.

267

Src «=n ae

LAWN.

quire a greenhouse in England, and
are grown in loam and peat, and
propagated by cuttings.

LastuHe\nia.— Composite.—Cali-
fornian annuals, with bright yellow
flowers ; which require the usual
treatment of Californian plants. See
CaLirornian ANNUALS.

La'tuyrus. — Leguminése. — A
genus of vigorous-growing, very
ornamental perennials and annuals,
of which those best known are L.
latifolius, the Everlasting Pea, with
pink flowers, and a variety with pure
white flowers, both growing to the

height of six feet or eight feet when |

supported by sticks, in the manner

of common Peas, or trained to a}

trellis ; LZ. grandiflorus, a perennial

remarkable for the large size of its |

flowers ; L. odordtus, the common
. Sweet Pea, an annual remarkable

\ for the fragrance of its blossoms,
which are of various colours ; and |

L. tingitanus, the Tangier Pea, a
tall-growing plant, the flowers of
which are dark purple.
very interesting species is Lord An-
son’s Pea, L. magellanicus, a peren-
nial plant, interesting from the
beauty of its foliage and its blue
flowers, and not nearly so much
cultivated as it ought to be: against
a wall, it is a rare, and at the same
time a very elegant species There
are many others, both ainuals and
perennials, ali of which are more
or less showy, and being of vigorous
growth are well adapted for broad
borders. They will grow in any
common soil; the annuals are pro-
pagated by seeds, and the perennials
by divisionsof the root.

LaureL.—See Cer/rasus.

LaureL, AMERICAN.—See Ka’L-
MIA.

Lavu'rus.Laurdcee.—The Sweet
Bay, L. nobilis, is a very handsome
evergreen shrub or low tree, with
dark-green leaves. It is somewhat
tender, and requires a_ sheltered
situation. The male and female

Another |

flowers are on different plants; and
the former, which are of a rich
yellow, are by far the most showy.
It will grow in any common soil,
and it is propagated by layers. The
leaves are used to flavour custards.
The fruit of the female plant is a
round dark purple berry, produced
in abundance in fine seasons ; but,
unfortunately, in nurseries, the male
plant is by far the most common.

Lava'npuLa. — Labidte. — The
Lavender is a low suffrutescent
bush, well known for the fragrance
of its flowers, and for an oil which
they yield by distillation in water.
L. Ste chas, the French Lavender,
is a more ornamental plant than the
common kind, but somewhat tender.
Both require a dry calcareous soil,
and an open airy situation. The
common Layender is cultivated on
a large scale at Mitcham, and also
at Henley-on-Thames. — both
places it is propagated by cuttings
of the young wood planted in au-
tumn, and seeds are sold in the
seed-shops.

LavaTe'ra.— Malvacee.—A very
showy annual, common in flow
gardens, which only requires sowing
in the open border in March or April
There are also two shrubbery kinds
See Tree Matiow.

Lawn.—Smooth mown turf, when
of any extent in pleasure grounds,
is called a lawn ; and its chief beau-
ties are the uniformity of its sur-
face, and uniformity in the kinds of
grasses which cover it, and which
produce a uniform tone of green.
These objects are produced by first
preparing the soil, which should be
a sandy loam, or a loam slightly
inclining to sand, of a foot or more in
depth, and equally drained through-
out, so as everywhere to retain the
same degree of moisture. Next, the
same mixture of grasses should be
sown throughout ; and lastly, they
should be mown at regular intervals,
say of a fortnight during the sum-

=,

7

ny

LAWN.

268

LAYERING.

mer months, and a month during
spring and autumn. Whenever
coarse grasses, or broad-leaved
plants of any kind appear, they
should be taken out with the spud ;
and whenever any spot becomes
bare, the soil should be renewed,
and pieces of fresh turf introduced,
or seeds sown; also, when worms
disfigure the surface, the castings
which they throw up should be
scraped off, and the surface watered
with lime-water, by which all the
worms will be destroyed. In gene-
ral, it is impossible to produce a fine
lawn, except in an open, airy situa-
tion, with a soil which will retain
moisture during summer; for in
close pent-up places, surrounded by
walls or hedges, and under the drip
of trees and shrubs, no kind of grass
will grow. In such places, all that
can be done is to encourage the
growth of moss, which will spring
up naturally wherever the soil is
kept sufficiently moist ; but where
it is very dry, the branches of the
rees and shrubs should be allowed
to trail on the surface, so as com-
pletely to cover it. In some situa-
tions, where the branches of the
trees and shrubs do not lie close to
the surface, or where they are
chiefly of deciduous kinds, the sur-
face may be clothed with Ivy or
Periwinkle. In very small gardens,
grass plots are generally formed by
rolls of turf taken from the surfaces
of some adjoining pasture-field or
meadow ; but when grass-seed is
sown, the following kinds are con-
sidered the best :—Fox-tail Meadow-
grass, Alopectirus praténsis, which
should form one-fourth of the whole ;
the Sweet-scented Spring-grass,
Anthoxénthemum odordtum, which
gives the fragrance to new hay ;
and Poa praténsis, the Common
Meadow-grass. ‘To these may be
added the Crested Dog’s-tail-grass,
Cynostirus cristatus, and the hard
Fescue-grass, Festtica duriiscula,

with about the proportion of a bushel
of white clover-seed to four bushels
of the other mixture ; and this quan.
tity will suffice for an acre of ground.
Layerine is a mode of propa-
gating used both in the case of
ligneous and herbaceous plants, and
the operation is performed by choos-
ing a young shoot of the current or
the preceding year, bending it down
to the ground, and covering a por-
tion of it near the extremity of the
shoot with an inch or more of soil,
previously fixing it there with a
hooked stick. In general, layers
of woody plants made in autumn
may be taken off about the same
season the following year; but
some trees and shrubs, such as
Magnolias, the tree Ivy, &c., re-
quire to remain on the tree for two
years. Roses layered in the sum-
mer season with shoots of the same
year’s growth may be taken off the
following spring; but the genera’
practice is to layer them in autumn
or winter, and allow the layers to
remain on the plants for a year.
Layers of herbaceous plants, such
as Carnations, Pinks, Double Sweet
Willams, and Chrysanthemums,
made in the beginning of summer,
will have made roots by the autumn ;
and the layers of Chrysanthemums

'so rooted will flower the winter of

the same year. To facilitate the
rooting of all layers, whether ligne-
ous or herbaceous, a notch or slit is
made in that part of the shoot which
is buried in the soil; or it is twisted,
and a portion of the bark taken off,
or it is in some other way wounded,
bruised, or injured, so aS to check
the return of the sap by the bark,
when the sap accumulating at the
upper lip of the wound forms a
callosity there of granulated mat-
ter, from which roots are soon after
emitted. In laying herbaceous
plants, and more especially Carna-
tions, the slit is made on the under
side of the shoot, and in the case of

af

LAYERING.

ec

Fig. 35.—Layer of a Carnation.

woody plants on the upper side.
In both cases, the knife is entered
immediately below a bud or joini;
roots being always more freely pro-
truded at the joints of plants, than
in the intervals between them. The
cut is generally made half through
the shoot, and continued up half
an inch or an inch, and to keep it
open a small splinter of wood, or a
small flat stone, or a piece of slate,
or a potsherd, is put in between the
divided parts to irritate the wound
and cause it to protrude granulous
matter. See fig. 35. In layering
herbacecus plants, it was formerly
the custom to shorten the leaves re-
maining on the layer, but in modern
practice this is considered unneces-
sary and even injurious, by lessen-
ing the powers of the leaves to
elaborate the sap. The leaves are
always stripped off that part of the
layer which is buried in the soil;
as shown in the layer of a Petunia,
Jig. 36. In layering some woody
plants, such as certain kinds of
Roses, Tree Peonies, &c., the entire
shoot is laid down, and the knife
entered immediately below each
eye; and, the wound being kept
open by splinters of wood or stones,
the whole shoot is covered with
23*

Fig. 36.—Layer of a Petunia.

earth to the depth of half an inch
or an inch, according as the soil is
sandy or loamy, and a shoot is after-
wards sent up from each eye, so
that a shoot thus laid down produ-
ces nearly as many plants as it has
buds. This practice is much more
successful with some kinds of shrubs
and trees than with others, and it is
not at all applicable to herbaceous
plants. Some shrubs, such as the
Honeysuckle, ‘Tecoma, Wistaria,
&c., which produce long shoots,
and continue growing throughout
the summer, may be pegged down
as they grow, and a slit made be-
hind each bud, or every other bud,
covering the joint so treated with
soil. A great many plants are thus
produced from a single shoot in one
season, more especially in moist,
warm summers, or in a warm situa-
tion, where water is applied arti-
ficially. Layers of every descrip-
tion root most freely in sandy soil,
in an open airy situation; and those
which are difficult to root succeed
best where the soil is almost a pure
sand. The layering of Carnations
is an operation particularly suitable
for ladies, more especially when
the plants are in pots, as they can
be placed on a table or bench, and

®.
LEAF-MOULD.

SEER
there will be no occasion for stoop-
ing.

Layine 1n BY THE HEELS. —
When plants are taken up for re-
moval, if they cannot be planted
immediately, they are generally laid
together horizontally, in a trench
made for that purpose; and the
roots covered with earth. This is
done to prevent the roots from be-
coming dry and withered, which
they would do if they were left ex-
posed to the open air for any length
of time.

Leapwort.—See Piumpa‘co.

Lear-Movw.p is formed of decay-
ed leaves, and is one of the most
useful materials in the culture of
flowers. All plants whatever will
grow in leaf-mould, mixed with
Joam and sand; and many plants
will grow in leaf-mould alone. It
is particularly useful for growing
plants in pots, especially Pelargo-
niums, Fuchsias, Petunias, Brug-
mansias, &c.; and in many cases
it may be used as Wbstitute for
heath-mould. Leaf-mould is formed

by sweeping up the leaves of trees |

and shrubs in autumn and winter,
and laying them in heaps in a con-
venient place to rot, turning them
over occasionally, so as to expose

continually a new surface to the |

action of the air. At the end of a
year, a considerable portion of the
leaves will have become mould, and

may be separated from the rest by |
sifting; and at the end of two years, |

the whole will have become one
mass of mould.
to grow any kind of herbaceous
plants to the largest possible size,
within a given time, I do not know
how it could be better done than

270

If it were required |

ee

LEAVES.

in Holland, are grown to an enor-
mous size in only leaf-mould and
sand. ‘The best substitute for leaf-
mould is heath-mould, mixed with
sifted very rotten dung, or rotten
dung alone may be used, if it has
become so thoroughly decayed as
to form a kind of mould.
Leatuer Woop.—See Di'rca.
Leaves are, next to roots, the
most important parts of plants.
Vith a root a plant will begin to
grow, but unless the leaves which
it produces are allowed to come to
maturity, it will soon cease to live,
because it is in the leaves alone
that the moisture imbibed by the
roots is elaborated into the sap or
vital juice of the plant. Nothing
so decidedly shows the ignorance
or knowledge of a gardener as the
manner in which he treats the
leaves of plants. Those of bulbs
many gardeners will, if not pre-
vented, cut off as soon as the plants
_ have done flowering ; and in gene-
ral gardeners wish to perform the
Same operation on all herbaceous
plants after they have flowered.
When a man of this description
raaked a layer or a cutting of a
'shoot that has the leaves on, he
either takes them off entirely or
cuts off their tips, not knowing that
it is by means of the leaves alone
that such cuttings can produce
/roots. (See Currtines.) At the
base of every leaf there is the rudi-
ment of a bud, either visible or dor-
'mant, and unless the leaf be allow-
ed to come to maturity, this rudi-
‘ment is killed or prevented from
becoming a vital germ. Wherever
a are required, therefore, it is
“necessary to preserve leaves. But

by placing the plant in the centre | leaves not only return sap to the
of a bed, three or four cubical yards | buds at the base of their petioles,
deep, of ieaf-mould mixed with but through these petioles they re-
coarse sand, thoroughly drained by | turn sap to the genera: cireulation
a stratum of stones at the bottom, | of the plant; and hence, the growth
and amply supplied with water. | both of the roots of the plant and
Pine-apples in France, and Melons ‘its shoots depends entirely on the

LECHENAULTIA. 271 LEONOTIS.

number of its healthy leaves.|be grown in heath.mould mixed
Leaves perform their office of elabo- | with a little loam, and treated ex-
rating the sap by exposure to the | actly like a Heath; that is, never
light and air, and more especially | suffered to become too dry, and
to the direct influence of the sun;| never saturated with water. It
therefore it is not sufficient to pre-| should be potted high, so as to
serve the leaves which a plant pro- | leave the collar above the mould in
duces, it is also necessary to prevent | the centre of the pot; and when
them from being darkened by ad- | kept in a balcony, the pot in which
joining plants or other objects, or it grows should be placed within
from darkening other leaves. This | another pot, so that the roots may
in some cases requires thinning | not be injured by the outside of the
both of ‘leaves and shoots; but | pot becoming heated by the sun
more generally it may be effected | The most important point, however,
by placing the plant in an open airy | is to allow the plant plenty of air,
situation. As the progress of a as it will not live without abundance
plant, therefore, after it is once | of both air and light. ZL. Baxtérii
originated, and planted in a proper|is much more beautiful than the
soil and situation, depends entirely | old species, as the flowers are much
on the leaves and on their treat- | larger and more brilliant, but it re-
ment; it follows that the growth of | quires the same treatment.
the plant may be in a great mea-| Ler‘pum.—Ericdcee.— The La-
sure checked by the removal of the | brador Tea. American low shrubs,
leaves, cither before they have burst | with pretty white flowers, which
from the bud or immediately after- | require to be grown in peat and
wards. In this way Mr. Benton | sand, heath-mould, or very sandy
has reduced the shoots of the most loam. Lédum buxifolia, the Sand
vigorous-growing fruit-trees with- | Myrtle, is freqmently called Ammyr-
out even once using the knife. The | sine buxifolia in the nurseries. It
same principle may be applied in| is a very pretty, compact-growing
the case of every other description | little plant, with box-like leaves,
of plant. and clusters of white flowers, which
Leaves are also occasionally used, | have a pink tinge on the back of
instead of manure or tan, for hot-| the petals. It is very suitable for
beds ; and very frequently for what | beds in a geometric flower-garden,
are called linings to old hotbeds, | or for rockwork, but it requires a
the heat of which has decreased. slight protection during severe
LECHENAU LTIA.— Goodendvie.— | frosts.
There are two species of this well-| Lecuminous PLants.—-Plants that
known genus, both natives of New | produce their seeds in a pod or
Holland, and both conspicuous for | legume, like the common Bean and
the great abundance of their dark | Pea; some of them have pea-flowers,
scarlet flowers. LL. Formésa is very | and others have tassel-like flowers,
common in windows, greenhouses, | like those of the Acacias.
and small balconies; but, though| Lerrtopny’LLum.— Another name
it is so general a favourite, few} for Lédum buzifolia.
people can keep it long. The fact} Lxz'mna—Duckweed.
is, that though it does not belong| Lemon.—See Ci'rrvs.
to the same natural order as the| Lerono‘ris. — Labidie. — Lion’s-
Heath, it very much resembles it|car. Shrubby plants, from the
in habit, and it is even more easily | Cape of Good Hope, with scarlet
killed. The Lechenaultia should'or orange flowers, which are pro-

LEUCOJUM.

272

LEVELLING.

duced in whorls round the joints of |
the stems. The flowers are pro- |
duced in autumn, and the plants
require a light rich soil.

Leo'nropon. — Composite. — L.
Taraxacum is the common Dande-
lion.

Leonvu‘nus.— Labidte.—Mother- |
wort. Annual and biennial plants, |
with reddish or purplish flowers,
natives of Europe, quite hardy in|
any common soil,

Leoparp’s Bane.—See Donro’n1-
CUM.

Leprtosi\pHon.—Polemoniaicee.—

retty Californian annuals, nearly
allied to Gilia, which will bear a/|
moderate degree of cold better than
too much heat. For their culture,
see ANNUALS.

Leprosre’rmuM. — Myrtécee. — |
Very pretty Australian half-hardy
shrubs, with white flowers, which |
are generally kept in a greenhouse |
in England, but which may be|
grown in the open air, with a shght
protection during ~ winter. hey |
require a sandy loam mixed with
peat in nearly equal quantities: and |
they are generatly propagated by
cuttings, as the plants which are |
raised from seed are a long time be- |
fore they flower. |

Lespepe’za. — Legumindse. — |

ea-flowered perennial plants, near- |
ly allied to the French Honeysuckle ;
which only require to be planted 1 in |
any common garden soil, in the |
open borders

Lesse/RTIA. .. = Legumino se.—L.
pulchra is a pretty litile half-shr ub- |
by plant, with purplish-red pea- |
lowers, which are produced in May. |

tis a native of the Cape of Good |

Fine. and is generally kept in a/|

greenhouse.
Levco'sum. — Amaryllidacea. —

| quite so well under the drip o
| trees.

Levucoro‘con. — Epacridee. —
Australian half-hardy shrubs, with
spikes of feathery white flowers.
‘They are very abundant in the
temperate regions of Australia, and
only require a slight protection in
England during winter.

Leuco’rnor. — Ericdcee.— One
of the new genera into which Pro-
fessor Don has divided the genus
Erica.

LEVELLING is an operation which

is required on a large scale in lay-

ing out gardens, and on a smaller
scale in digging uneven ground. In
either case, care should be taken
to keep the best soil on the surface,
so that when a hill is to be lowered
in order-to fill up a hollow, the first
operation is to take off the surface
of both, and reduce the ground to
a uniform inclination or level, by
removing the subsoil; and replacing
the surface soil afterward evenly
over the whole. In practice it is

_seldom, if ever, desirable to reduce

a surface to a perfect level, because

in that case the rain which fell on

it would not readily run off. An
inclination should generally be given
from one side to the other; or,
when the plot is a square, from the
centre to all the sides; and this ia-
clination may be so gentle as to
render it quite impossible to be de-
tected by the eye alone. A piece

| of ground filty feet broad may have

an inclination of three inches, if the
_ soil be loamy and retentive; but if
it be sandy and absorbent, an inch
and a half will be sufficient. In
levelling lawns, no part whatever
of the surface ought to be on what
lled a dead, or perfect level ;
e as the grass retains the

GThe Snow-flake. Beautiful bulb- | water on the surface like a sponge,
/ ous-rooted plants, natives of Europe, | if the soil be loamy, it will soon be-
as hardy as the common Snowdrop, come mossy and unpleasant to walk
and Jab alee the same treatment, |on during the whole of the winter
| and spring.. All flat lawns, there-

LIGHT.

273

LIGUSTRUM.

fore, on clayey soil, ought not only
to have a gentle inclination, but
frequent drains, the stones in which
ought to be brought up to within a
few iaches of the surface. In ar-
ranging the inclination of dug sur-
faces, care should be taken that
the water is not thrown on the
gravel-walks ; for which purpose
drains are requisite in the marginal |
borders ;—though in general, dug
soil, if the stratum be not retentive,
is sufficiently absorbent to render
such drains unnecessary, the super-
fluous water of the subsoil finding |
its way to the drains of the walks.

Leyceste\r1a.— Caprifolidcee.—
LL. formosa is a very handsome |
plant, with long spikes of reddish |
flowers, which will not only thrive,
but grow more luxuriantly in the im- |
mediate neighbourhood of the sea,
than in any other situation. It is
a native of Nepal; and was intro-
duced in 1824. It was, however,
soon lost through injudicious treat-
ment—probably through keeping it
too warm; but it has been lately
reintroduced, and it is now found to
grow vigorously in the open ground.
It is propagated by cuttings and
seeds.

Lia‘rris.—Composite.— W eedy-
looking hardy perennials, with pur-
plish flowers, which will grow in
any common garden soil, and are
increased by dividing the roots.

LicuENn. — Cryptogimia Licie- |
nes. — Moss-like plants, generally
found on old walls, desert heaths,
or the bark of old trees; also fre-
quently on dead wood.

Licut is as essential as air and
water to plants; and without abun-
dance of light, plants are ygither
vigorous in themselves, nor propé
coloured. When greenhous
are kept in imperfectly lighted ;
houses, or in half-darkened rooms,
it is really painful to witness the
efforts they make to catch as much
light as they possibly can; their

stems become weak, from being un-
naturally e:ongated, or drawn u,
and twisted, in ‘their efforts to reach
the light, and their flowers are pale
and of very little value. In those
towns where the atmosphere is
thickened by coal-smoke, the light
never has the same beneficial effect
as in the open country, where there
is nothing to prevent it from exer-
cising its full imfluence over the
plants

Li'enum Vi'r2.—Guaiacum offi-

_cinadle is a tree, a native of the

West Indies, remarkable for the
hardness of its wood. It has blue
flowers, which are produced in suc-
cession allthe summer. It requires
a stove in England, and should be
grown im a mixture of peat and
loam.—See Guat‘acum.
Licgu’strum.—Oleécee.—-The Pri-
vet is one of the most common, but
at the same time most useful, of
garden shrubs. The plant, in its
wild state in Britain, is deciduous ;
bat there is a variety obtained orig-
inally fro y, which is ever-
green, and which forms hedges for
shelter of every size, from those of
six inches in width and one foot in
height, to hedges ten feet high and
two or three feet in width. ‘These
hedges aiford an excellent shelter
to exposed flower-gardens, and also,
when planted on the south side of a”
border, shady situations for particu-
lar kinds of plants, such as Pzim-
roses, Polyanthuses, t' e rarer kinds
of Ranunculacee, T liums, Cypri-
pediums, Bog Orchidee, and a
great variety of others. The Privet
is preferable to all other plants for
garden-hedges on account of the
rapidity of its growth, and the na-
ture of its roots, which are chiefly
fibrous, a’ d never extend to a great
distance irom the plant. The tree
Box has the same properties, but
then if is of much slower growth.
The evergreen Privet is also one of
the best plants for verdant archi-

LILIUM.

tecture and sculpture; because it
grows compact, is of a deep green
eolour, bears the shears well, and
the leaves being small, they are
not disfigured by clipping, like
those of the Holly or the Laurel.
The Box equals it in the smallness of
the leaves, but it grows more slowly ;
and though the Juniper and Yew
surpass it, because their leaves never
show the mark of the shears, they
grow much slower still. The Privet
grows in any soil and situation,
even in narrow courts amid coal-
smoke, and it is readily propagated
by cuttings. It also grows under
the shade of trees, and is therefore
admirably adapted for thickening
and darkening narrow shrubberies
and screening of plantations. Asa
single object, the Privet is very or-
namental, whether covered with
its white flowers or its dark-purple
berries; and there are varieties
with green, white, and yellow ber-
ries, and variegatedleaves. Ligits-
trum liciduwm and spicatum,
are very ornamental sub-evergreen
shrubs or low trees, natives of
China and Nepal; but they are
liable to be injured by very severe
winters. These two species are
propagated by budding or grafting
on the common Privet.
Linacu.—See Syai'nGa.

Liliaceae, or Tulipa-
cea.—T he Lily is the most splendid
genus of bulbous plants. All the
species are beautiful, and most of
them arehardy. Lilium candidum
grows from three feet to five feet
high, and its pure white flowers,
which appear in June, are well
known from being placed by paint-
ers in the hands of the Virgin. JL.
bulbiferum, a native of Italy, has
orange flowers, which appear in
June and July, and the plant is
equally high with the preceding
species. L. philadélphicum grows
five feet or six feet high, and pro-
duces its fine scarlet flowers in

274

LIMAX.

August. . Pomponium is a splen.
did species, with scarlet flowers,
produced in May and June; and ZL.
tigrinum grows six feet high, and
produces its black-spotted orange
flowers in August and September.
There are many other hardy spe-
cies in cultivation; and Z. eximium,
L. japonicum, L. longiflorum, and
some others eminently beautiful,
and chiefly with white flowers, re-
quire the protection of the green-
house, or a cold frame. ‘The spe-
cies which are natives of America
thrive best in sandy peat, kept
moist when the plants are in a
growing state; but the others grow
freely in common garden soil. They
are all readily propagated by offsets,
which they produce in abundance.
The bulbs of all the species are
probably edible when cooked, for
those of L. Pompénium are used in
Kamtschatka in the same way as
potatoes are in Britain; and they
all belong to what are called the
scaly bulbs, which may remain
several years in the ground without
taking up, and which, when they
are taken up, should be planted
again as soon as possible.

Lity.—See Li'iium.

Lity or THE VALLEY.—See Con-
VALLA‘RIA.

Li'max.—This is the scientific
name for the slug, one of the most
destructive creatures in existence
fora garden. The slug differs from
the snail in having no apparent
shell, though it has the rudiments
of a shell buried in the upper part
of its body. Like the snail, also, it
can only crawl when the earth is
moist with rain or dew: as when
the ground is dry, it absorbs too

much of the slime which both slugs
and snails are obliged to discharge

from their bodies to enable them to
glide along. There are many kinds
of slugs, nearly all of which are
destructive to vegetation ; the onl

exception being the shell-slug (Tes-

LINN AA. 275 LIQUIDAMBER.

tacélla), which livesonea:tn-worms.|may be vropagated by cuttings,
These creatures are by no means, which should be struck under a
common ; but they are found in the | ha..d-glass.

earth near hothouses, in the neigh-, Linum.—Lindcee.— The Flax.
bourhood of London, and they may | ‘The common flax, the fibres of the
be known by their dirty yellow| stalk of which are used to make
colour, and by their having a little | linen, has pretty blue flowers; but
scale-like shell, which naturalists | there are other species of the genus
call the shield or buckler, on the | with showy yellow flowers. Some
outside and on the highest part of of the perennial kinds are rather
the body, near the breathing-hoie, | tender, and require to be protected
which it is probably intended to/ during severe winters; they are also
protect. Slugs may be destroyed | liable to damp off if kept too moist.

in the same manner as snails.—See |

He'‘iix.

Live.—A kind of Citrus, rarely |
grown in England, but requiring |
the same treatment as the orange |
and the lemon.—See Cirrus.

Limna/NrHES.—Limnanthicee.—
._/One of the Californian annuals, the
\flowers of which are yellow in the

centre, with a deep border of white.
For the-culture, see ANNUALS. |

Lamno’cuaris.— Hydrocharidee,

or Butémee.—These plants, which

are natives of Brazil, are either

annual or biennial, and the seed

should be sown in a layer ot rich, '
loamy soil, at the bottom ot a cis- |
tern or tub, which shou!d be kept |
very moist; and as the young plants |
grow, the tub or cistern should be |
gradually filled with water. They |
require the heat of a stove

Lina‘ria. — Scrophularinee. —
Toad-flax. Hardy annuals, that |
only require sowing in March,
April, or May, in the open border.
They will grow in any soil or situ-
ation ; but they prefer a rather stiff,
poor soil, and an open, exposed
situation. Several of the kinds have
been removed from the genus An-
tirrhinum (Snapdragon), to which
they are very nearly allied.

Linnz\a. — Caprifolicea
trailing plant, adapted for rockwork,
or pots, as it is too insignificant in
its appearance to produce any effect
in the open garden. It should be
grown in loam and peat, and it

They should be grown in light soil,
consisting principally of vegetable
mould; and the dwarf kinds are
very suitable forrockwork. They are
generally propagated by cuttings or
seeds, which they ripen abundantly.
Lion’s-EAR.—See Leono‘ris.
Lion’s-TaiL.——Leonotis Leoniirus.
Lipa‘r1a.— Leguminose.—-Dwarf
greenhouse shrubs, with orange or
yellow fiowers, natives of the Cape
of Good Hope. Many of the species
are now Called Priestleya. They
should be grown in loam and peat.
Liquip Manure may be deserib-
ed as a decoction of any descrip-
tion of putrescent manures, such as
stable-dung, pig’s-dung, pigeon-
dung, sheep’s-dung, &c. It may
be used with great advantage in
the kitchen-garden, but is seldom
required in the culture of flowers ;
and indeed many of the finer kinds
have been injured by it, though
some few, such as the Hydrangeas,
the commoner Pelargoniums, Chry-
santhemums, Cockscombs, Bal-
sams, Auriculas, &c., have been
benefited. Liquid manure ought
not to be applied to plants till they
have attained a considerable degree
of strength and vigour; and after

jit has been once used, it ought to
‘be continued without intermission

as a substitute for common water,
till the plants have attained the
wished-for degree of maturity.
Liquipa MBER. — Amentacea. —
Though too large a tree to come

LOAM.

within the scope of this work, it
may be mentioned for its ornamental
appearance when quite young, from
the brilliant purplish red assumed by
its leaves in autumn. It is quite
hardy, and will grow in any common
garden soil that is tolerably moist.
Liquorice.—See Guycyrrarza.
Liriope'NpRoN.— Magnoliacez.-—
The Tulip-tree grows to a still larger
size than the Liquidamber ; but it
is very ornamental from its flowers,
which somewhat resemble those of
the Parrot-tulip, and its curiously-
shaped leaves. It seldom flowers
till it has become a large tree. The
seeds, which are imported from
America, often lie two years in the
ground before they come up.
Lista/ntuus.— Gentidnee. — Lig-
neous, perennial, and biennial plants,
natives of the West Indies ; which
requireaa hothouse or greenhouse in
England. LZ. Russelidnus has hand-
some purple flowers; but they are
not so beautiful as was at first sup-
posed, and the species is neither
hardy nor annual. All the species
should be grown in a mixture of

loam and peat, and they are all pro- |

pagated by cuttings struck in sand,
under a bell-glass.

Lisa'ntuE. — Epacridee. — The
plants should be grown in a green-
house, in peat and sand; and they
are propagated by cuttings of the
tips of the shoots, like heaths.

Li'rr#a, or Ly'tr#sa.—Bromelia-
cee—Handsome plants, nearly al-
lied to Agave, with spreading leaves
and long spikes of flowers. The
fine plant, formerly known as Bona-
piriea juncea, is now called Littea
geminiflora. They should be grown
in sandy loam, and are increased by
suckers from the roots.

Loam.—Clay is one of the primi- |

tive earths, of so close and compact
a texture, as to be almost unfit for
vegetation, unless mixed with some
lighter material; but, combined with
sand and decayed vegetables, it

276

LONICERA. €

forms loam. What are called sandy

| loam, and yellow loam, are two
kinds of soil very conducive to vege-
tation ; and sandy loam is perhaps
the best of all soils for a garden.

Loa'sa. — Loasicee. — Stinging
annual and biennial plants, with
showy flowers. The splendid climb.
ing plant, L. lateritia, or aurdntica,
is now discovered to be Caidphora
punicea, the difference between the
genera consisting in the Caiophora
having a twisted seed-pod, while
that of the Loasa is plain. The
species are all nearly hardy, but they
do best when raised ona slight hot-
bed, and planted out in May.

Lose ‘is. — Lobelidcee.—Nothing
can exceed the beauty of the plants
retained in this genus, some of which
are tender, requiring a stove, and
others of which are quite hardy,
growing freely in the open ground.
Some also are quite dwarf, and
others tall plants; some are blue,
others scarlet, and others yellow ;
and some are annuals, and the others
| perennials. All the Lobelias require
a light rich soil, and plenty of moist-
ure. The large, tall-growing kinds,
with scarlet or pink flowers, are now
frequently called 'Tupa.

LozLotty Bay.—See Gorpo'nia.

Locust Tree of the Americans,
|or Cobbett’s Locust. — Robinia
| Pseudo-Acdcia—See Rosr'nia.

Locwoov.—Hematoxylon cam-
pechianum.—A leguminous stove-
| shrub, which grows best in loam and
peat, and is propagated by cuttings.

Lonpon Pripe.—-Sazifraga or
Robertsonia umbrosa.—See Saxr'-
FRAGA.

Loni'cera._Caprifolidcee.—The
upright or Fly Honeysuckle. Great

nfusion exists in botanical works

cting the scientific names of
the different kinds of Honeysuckle
Generally speaking, however, the
climbing kinds are called Caprifé-
lium, and the upright, erect shrubs,
Lonicera. The latter kind are ail

LOWEA.

277

LYCENIS.

quite hardy, and will grow in any
common soil; and they are propa-
gated by cuttings planted in the|
open groundinautumn. LZ. tatdrica,
the Tartarian Honeysuckle, and ZL.
zylosteum, the common Fly Honey-
suckle, are the commonest kinds.

Loose Srrire.—See Lysima‘cuia.

Lore\z1a.— Onagracee.— Annual
and biennial plants, hardy, half-
hardy, and tender; but with light,
feathery, pink flowers, and pretty
ball-like fruit, which is produced on
long stalks, and is very ornamental.
For the culture, see ANNUALS and
BIeNNIALS.

Lopuospe'rmumM. — Scrophulari-
nee.—Beautiful climbing _ plants,
with pink bell- shaped flowers, which
grow luxuriantly in the open bor rder,
covering a trellis-work or a wall in
an incredibly short space of time. |
As the plants are killed down to the
ground in winter, cuttings should be
taken off in autumn, and kept ina
greenhouse or frame during winter
to plant out in spring. The plants
will grow in any common garden
soil, provided it is tolerably light,
and that they have abundance of
space for their rocts.

Loquat Tree.See Erioso’rurya.

Lora'ntuus.— Loranthacee.— A
kind of Mistletoe, generally found
on the Oak ; common in Germany,
but not yet introduced into England.

Lorp Awnson’s Pea—Lathyrus
magellanicus.—See La'tuyrus.

Lo‘rus. — Leguminose. — Birds’-
foot Trefoil. Pea-flowered annual
and perennial plants, generally with
yellow flowers, but sometimes with
white or pink flowers, some of which
are only half-hardy. They are all
grown in sandy loam, and are gene-
rally propagated by seeds.

Love Aprite.—The Tom
See Lycope’rsicum.

Love ties Bieepinc.—Amaran-
thus caudatus——See AMARA'NTHUS.

Lo'wea.——The new name for Rosa

berberidifolia.
24

<a
2.

Lucu‘t1a.— Rubidcee.— LL. gra-
iissima is a remarkably fragrant
plant, with large flowers, something
like those of the Hydrangea. It is
grown ina greenhouse, in a mixture
of light tarfy loam and peat; and

‘| it is propagated by cuttings, which

require bottom-heat.

Luna‘ata.—-Crucifere.—-Honesty.
| Hardy annual and perennial plants,
which will grow in any common gar-
den soil, and only require the usual
treatment of their respective kinds.
—See Annuats and PERENNIALS.

Lurine.—See Lupinus.

Lurr‘nus. — Leguminose. — The
Lupine. A genus of herbaceous
annuals and perennials, which con-
_tain some of our most beautiful
border flowers: yellow, blue, white,
| and pink Lupines are among tHe
oldest border annuals. J. ndnus
is a beautiful little annual, with
dark blue flowers, a native of Cali-
fornia, and requiring the usual treat-
ment of Californian annuals. JL.
mutabilis and Cruikshaénkii are
splendid plants, growing to the
height of four or five feet, and
| branching like miniature trees; ZL.
polyphy'iius and its varieties are
perennials, and they are splendid
and vigorous-growing plants, with
spikes of flowers from one foot to
eighteen inches in length; JZ. noot-
katénsis is a handsome dwarf pe-
rennial, and J. arbdreus when
trained against a wall will attain
six feet in height, and in sheltered
situations it will grow with equal
vigour trained as a bush tied to a
stake; ZL. latifolius is a perennial

from California, with very long |

spikes of blue flowers. All the spe-
cies will thrive in common garden
soil; the annuals are propagated by
seeds sown in February or March,
and the perennials by division of
the roots.
Ly'cunis—Silendcee, or Caryo-
hy'llee.— Beautiful flowers nearly
allied to the Pinks; some of which,

ee A if abareseh
* oe
y | J
<a LYCIUM. bee a 978 Lrvaida. es

such as the Ragged Robin, Ly'ch-| flowers, but it requires the protec.
nis Flos ciculi, grow wild in the|tion of a wall; and UF. Boer-
hedges in England. They are| haaviefolium, recently changed
nearly all hardy, and may be grown | to Grabowskia, is remarkable for
in any common garden soil. the singularity of its leaves, which

Ly'cium. — Solandcee. — Box- | are covered with a mealy whiteness ;
thorn. The species are mostly hardy | it also requires the protection ofa wall.
shrubs with long slender shoots, Lycore’rsicum. —Solanécee.—L.
which trail on the ground or ascend | esculéntum, Don. (Solanum Lyco-
among the branches of larger shrubs _pérsicum, Ten.) the Tomato or
or trees, according as they may be | Love-apple, is generally grown for
circumstanced. Ly'cium bérbarum, | its fruit, which is eaten as a sauce,
the Duke of Argyle’s Tea Tree, | &c. It is, however, very orna-
is one of the most vigorous-growing | mental when the fruit is mpe, from

hardy shrubs, producing when es- |
tablished a year, in good soil, shoots |
ten feet or twelve feet long; ZL. |
europeum is almost equally vigor- |
ous; and ZL. Trewidnum, in a warm |
sheltered situation, will grow to the
height of twenty feet. Scarcely
any shrub will cover a bower, or
naked wall, or trellis fence, in so
short atime; and the fruit, which is |
of a coral colour, is ornamental] as
well as the flowers. The species
mentioned have only one disadvan-
tage, which is, that their roots run |
to a great distance, and throw up
numerous suckers; and this pecu- |
liarity renders the plants unfit for
smal] gardens, though well adapted
for confined court-yards or narrow |
passages, the side-walls of which |
are to be covered with verdure. A
single plant on a lawn trained with
a stem to the hegeht of ten ortwelve
feet, and then allowed to spread on
every side over frame-work, in
the form of an umbrella, will not
only cover this frame-work, but
produce shoots which will hang
down to the ground on every side,
and thus forin a complete curtain,
which may be drawn aside like that
of a window or bed, and will close
again of itself on the spectator.
These species are easily propagated |
by cuttings of the roots or shoots,
in any common soil, rather dry than |
moist. JL. adfrum is a very beautiful
species, with large violet-coloured

its large size and brilliant colour.
There are several kinds, varying in

the size and the colour of the fruit.

Nearly all the kinds are annuals,
which should be raised on a hotbed,
and planted out in May against a
wall or espalier railing, to which
they should be trained ; they all re-
quire a rich soil, and abundance of
sun and air, to bring them to per-
fection.
Lycopo‘p1um.—Cryptogamia Ly-
copodinee.—Club-moss. A curious
kind of moss, common in Europe
and America, some of the kinds
of which are very ornamental. L
helvéticum, which is very hand-

some, is generally grown in pots in

greenhouses. It should be grown
in peat and loam, and allowed abun-
dance of water.

Lysima‘cuta. — Primuldcee. —
Loose-strife. Herbaceous plants with
yellow flowers, chiefly perennials,
and of which one species, L. num-
muléria, Money-wort, is a well-
known evergreen trailer, which,
when kept in a pot of moist soil,
will produce shoots of two or three
feet in length, which hang down on
every side. JZ. verticilldtum is an
upright-growing plant, with abun-
dance of showy yellow flowers,
which looks very well as a border-
flower ina large garden. They will
grow in any common garden soil.

Ly rHrum.—Lythracee.—A ge.
nus of very ornamental hardy per

+.

ennials, which grow in any com-
mon soil kept moist, and are propa-
gated by division. J. salicaria isa
native of Britain, on the banks of
rivers, and grows to the height of
four feet; L. diffisum grows to the
height of one foot ; and both these
species produce their purple flowers
in July and August, when flowers
are comparatively rarer than they
are in June and September. JL.
virgdtum grows three feet high, and
produces its purple flowers from
June to September.
Ly'trza.—See Li'rrza.

M.

Macuu‘ra. — Urticdcee. — The
Osage-orange. Handsome evergreen
trees, with small shining yellowish
green leaves, and many thorns.
The flowers are white and rather
small, but the fruit, which is as
large as an orange, and of a bril-
liant gold yellow, is very ornamental.
These trees are as yet rare in Brit-
ish gardens, but they have borne
fruit in the Jardin des Plantes in
Paris. The male and female flow-
ers are on different trees. It is sup-
posed that the leaves of this plant
will be equally good as those of the
White Mulberry for feeding silk-
worms, as they abound in a milky
juice which is very tenacious. The
Maclura succeeds better in rather
a poor soil; as where the soil is too

= MADIA. 279 MAGNOLIA.

are brown in thecentre. The seeds
should be sown in the open air in
February, or as soon as the weather
will admit, in rich deep soil ; or in
sheltered situations, the seeds may
be sown in autumn, and the young
plants left to stand the winter.
When the plants begin to attain a
considerable size, they should be
staked and tied up, or they will have
a very untidy and disagreeable ap-
pearance. The kind called M. splén-
densis only a variety of M. élegans.

Maeno‘tia. — Magnolidcea. —
This is a genus of singularly orna-
mental trees, mostly of small size,
and some of them shrubs. M.
grandiflora, the evergreen Magno-
lia, the most desirable variety of
which is M. g. exoniénsis, is a well-
known highly prized tree, generally
planted against a wall. Though it
will only flower freely in favourable
situations, yet it is very hardy, not
having been killed anywhere by the
severe winter of 1837-8. In every
villa, whatever may be its extent,
one or two plants of this Magnolia
ought to be placed against the
house, or on a conservative wall.
It will thrive in a loamy soil, rather
rich ; buat it will grow still better in
peat, and it requires no attention
but training the branches, and nail-
ing them against the wall. It pro-
duces its large flowers, which are
from six inches to a foot in diameter
when fully expanded, from August
to October. M. g. pre‘cox is a

rich, the plant makes shoots more | comparatively rare variety, with

luxuriant than it can ripen; and
the tops of the young wood are
often killed by frost.

Maperra Vine.—See Base’.

Mapper.—See Ro'‘sta.

Ma‘p1a.— Compésite.—M. sativa

is a weedy-looking plant, grown in

Germany, for crushing its seeds to
make oil. M. élegans (Madaria
élegans, Dec.) is a coarse-growing
annual, with woolly leaves, and
very pretty yellow flowers, which

broader leaves than M. g. exonién-
sis, and still larger flowers, and
they appear in July and sometimes
in June. In purchasing both spe-
cies in the nurseries, care should be
taken to select plants which have
been raised from layers; as seed.
lings, which are now sometimes im-
ported from France, are often ten
or fifteen years before they come
into flower: whereas the others
will flower the first or second year.

=

MAGNOLIA.

M. conspicua is a deciduous tree,
which produces abundance of white
flowers about the size of lilies, in
April and May, and sometimes even
in March. It is quite hardy, but
as its flowers appear so early, they
are liable to be injured by spring
frosts; they also appear before the
leaves, and for these reasons the
tree should be planted against a
wall, and if possible near M. grandi-
flora, so that the branches may in-
termingle, in which situation it pro-
duces a splendid effect. It never
grows out of bounds, and therefore
requires no pruning.
quite well as a standard in any
common soil, and planted among
evergreens in sheltered situations
forms a splendid object when in
flower. M. c. Soulangidna is a
hybrid between this species and M.
purpurea, equally splendid in its
fiowers; and this hybrid, M. con-
spicia, and M. grandiflora, oaght
never to be omitted im any garden,
whether small or large. M. purpu-
rea is a shrub which will thrive in
the open border, but it flowers best
against a wall, and no plant is bet-
ter deserving a placethere. M. acu-
minata, with bluish flowers, and M.
cordaia, with yellowish ones, are as

. '
hardy as most flowering trees, and

the former will attain the height of
thirty or forty feet in fifteen or

twenty years ; both deserve a place |

as standards. M. auriculdta is a
beautiful hardy tree with mahogany-
coloured bark and smooth shining
leaves with reddish veins; it ought
also to have a place in every collec-
tion of trees. ‘The flowers of this
and of the two preceding sorts are
not fragrant like those of M. grandi-
fiora and M. conspicua. M. tripé-
tala has leaves so large, that in
America it is called the Umbrella-
tree; the flowers are white and
fragrant. It requires a peat soil
kept moist, and forms a splendid
object on alawn. M. macrophy'lia

280

It will thrive |

*

MALCOMIA.,

lisa comparatively rare species with

/white flowers, the petals of which
have a purple spot at the base, and
the leaves are of an enormous size.
|It thrives best in this country in
deep sand. M. fuscdia is a green-
house shrub with brown-coloured
flowers delightfully fragrant ; which
well deserves a place in every con-
servatory, and which, in very warm
situations, will live through the
winter against a conservative wall.
In general, the Magnolias may be
designated the aristocratic trees of
|a garden, whether we regard the
large size and fragrance of their
| flowers, or the length and breadth
of their enormous leaves. The bark
and wood of all of them are fragrant,
and may be used as a substitute for
| those of the Cinchona.
MaunaLes.—The Mahaleb Plum
or Cherry.—See Ce/Rasus. ’
Mano'nta. — Berberidea. — The
Ash Berberry. Very handsome
evergreen shrubs, with pinnate
leaves, and bearing abundance of
brilliant yellow flowers, which are
succeeded by black berries. All
| the kinds grow freely, and are very
| ornamental, but M. aquifolium, the
leaflets of which somewhat resem-
ble the leaves of the Holly, is by far
the handsomest and hardiest spe-
cies. They will grow in any com-
/mon garden soil, and are increased
by layers. M. fasciculdris and M.
repens are rather tender, and should
have some slight pretection during
severe frosts.
MarpEn-Hairn.—See Apia'NTUM.
Maracuone'npren. — Terastre-
midcee.—A handsome bushy shrub,
which may be trained as a low tree,
with large white flowers. It should
be grown in sandy peat, and it is
propagated by layers or cuttings,
the latter of which, however, re-
quire sand, a bell-glass, and bottom
heat, to make them strike root.
Matco’m1a.— Crucifere. — The
Virginian Stock. A pretty little

* MAMMILLARIA. 281 MANGIFERA.

annual which only requires to have | but without leaves; the flowers
its seeds sown at almost any season | growing out of the stem without
to grow, and to flower abundantly. ! any stalk. These plants are natives
As nearly all the seeds are sure to| of the high table-land of Mexico,
come up, it may be sown as an| where they are subject to very few
edging plant instead of Box or| variations of temperature ; and they
Thrift ; and in fact it is often used | should therefore be kept in green-
for this purpose in cottage gardens. | house heat all the year in England.

Mate Fern.—Asplénium Feliz-| In their native country they grow
mas.—A very handsome species of | in rich loam, and therefore require
Fern for growing in shrubberies. a better soil in this country than

Ma esue’rpia.— Malesherhiicee. | the different kinds of Cereus and
—A very pretty Chilian half-hardy | Echinocactus, which grow among
annual, with blue flowers, the seeds | caleareous rocks, in the mould
of which should be sown on a hot- | formed by the deposition of vegeta-
bed in February, and the young| ble matter in the fissures. By at-

plants planted out in May. tending to these particulars the
Matitow.—See Ma'tva. Mammillarias may be easily grown
Ma Lope.— Malvdcee. — Annual in any situation where they can be

kept free from frost. When kept
in a room, they should be allowed
as much air as possible; and the
dust which lodges among their
spines should be frequently blown
off with a small pair of bellows, but
the plants themselves should never
be watered overhead.

Mane'rria.— Rubidcee —Climb
ing plants, some of which require a
stove in England; though one spe-
cies, M. cordifolia, Hook. (M. gla-
bra, Dec.), which has very handsome
bright scarlet tube-like flowers, is
generally grown in a greenhouse.
It is a native of Buenos Ayres,
whence it was introduced in 1831,
and, like many plants from that
country, it will very probably stand
the summer in the open border in
England. It should be grown in
a mixture of sandy peat and loam ;
and when kept in a pot, it should
be allowed plenty of room for its
roots, and abundance of fresh air as
perennials and annuals. They are | often as possible. It is propagated
all of the easiest culture according | by cuttings, which must be struck
to their respective kinds; and the| in sand, with bottom-heat.

plants with very handsome flowers.
M. trifida, of which there are two
kinds, one with crimson and the
other with white flowers, is rather
dwarf; but M. grandiflora will
grow four or five feet high in a good
soil and an open situation, bearing
very large and showy brilliant crim-
son flowers. All the kinds are
quite hardy, and only require sow-
ing in March or April in the open
border, and thinning out and trans-
planting, when the young plants
are three or four inches high.

Maupr'enta. — Malpighiacee. —
The Barbadoes Cherry. A stove
trailer, a native of the West Indies,
which requires a stove in England.
It should be grown in a light loamy
sou, and it is propagated by cuttings
of the ripened wood.

Mantva.— Malvdcee.—The Mal-
low. A great number of different
species are grown in British gar-
dens, tender, halfshardy, and hardy

hardy species may be grown in any Maner'rera.— Terebinthécee.—
soil and situation. The Mango Tree. A native of both
Mammituia‘aia. — Cacticee. —| the East and the West Indies, with

Succulent plants, with almost glo-| white flowers, which requires a
bular stems covered with prickles,| stove in England. The fruit is said
24*

>

MANURES.

282

MARSH PLANTS. ol

to be of remarkably fine flavour in
its native country. The plant in
England should be grown in very
sandy loam, and the pots well
drained, as it is very ept to damp
off.

Maneo Tree.—See Manei'rera.

Mancosteen. — Garcinia Man-
gostana.— This celebrated fruit,
which is so highly spoken of by
travellers in Java, &c., belongs to
the same genus as the Gamboge
tree, and both require a stove in
England. They are, however, very
seldom grown in this country.

Mant'sia. — Scitaminee.— M.
Saliatoria, the Opera Girls, is a
plant the flowers of which appear
before the leaves, and which really
look something like dancing figures
fantastically dressed. The plant
requires a stove in England, and
it should be grown in a mixture of
turfy loam, peat, and sand, kept

rather moist, but well drained. It
is increased by dividing the root.
Manures, in Floriculture, are

little wanted, and in general leaf-
mould, or hotbed dung, or any kind
of fermentable material, consisting
chiefly of vegetable matter, is to
be preferred. — See Liear-Movutp.
Thoroughly decomposed stable-dung
is produced by turning it over every
three or four weeks in summer,
when*ermentation is active, or three
or four times in winter, when it is
more slow ; and in either case it is
fit for use when it can be passed
through a coarse sieve. It is to be
mixed with the soil in proportions
dependent on the nature of the
plant to be cultivated. In general,
rapid-growing plants, such as bulbs
of every kind, require the roughly-
decomposed manure: but strong
vigorous plants which grow all the
summer, such as Dicotyledonous
annuals and perennials, may be
manured with materials in a less
decomposed state. All manures
should be preserved in compact

masses, so as to present as small a
surface to the action of the atmo-
sphere as possible, and a shaded
situation is consequently preferable
to one exposed to the free action of
the sun and air.
Mara’nta.—Cannee.—The In-
dian Arrow-root. Stove plants,
with tuberous roots and small white
flowers. The powder called Arrow-
root is made from the tubers.
Manre’s-TarL.—See Hirpu‘ris.
Ma'rica. — fridee. -— Fibrous-
rooted plants, with very ornament-
al flowers, greatly resembling those
of the Cape bulbs. Natives of Af-
rica, some of which require a stove
and others a greenhouse in Eng-
land. For culture, see AMary’LLIs.
Maricotp.—-See CaLe’NDULA.
Marsgoram.—See Ori'Ganum.
Marsu Maricotp.—Caltha pa-
lustris—A British marsh or aqua-
tic plant, sometimes introduced in
ponds and other artificial pieces of
water, in garden scenery, to give
them a natural appearance, or to
hide their termination. The plants
only require to be planted in the
muddy banks of the water, if it be
a pond ; but if it be a river, they
should have a stone or two laid on
their roots, to prevent them from
being washed away by the stream.
Marsu Puanrs are of different
kinds; those which grow in com-
mon soil, saturated with moisture
throughout the year; those which
grow in soil saturated or covered
with water during winter and
spring ; and those which grow in
peat-bogs. A few of them are or-
namental; such as Menydnthes
irifoliata and Comarum palistre,
which are proper Marsh Plants;
Damasonium vulgare, and Ranin-
culus lingua and flammula, which
grow in soils sometimes dry during
summer ; and Parndssia palustris,
which grows in peat-bogs and
springy soils. In gardens, bogs are
easily imitated, by placing the soil

MATHIOLA.

in pots, or sunk boxes, with reten-

tive bottoms and sides so as to
retain water. Where there is an
aquarium, or pond for plants, it is
very often surrounded with a broad
border or margin of soil, raised a
few inches above the level of the
water in the pond, and which is
kept moist by the exudation of the
water. ‘To prevent the exudation
from extending further than the
border, the bottom and the outer
margin are formed of masonry lined
with clay. A very common mode,
and one of the best, is to place the
plants in pots or tubs, and to set
these on supports in the water, so
that the bottom of the pot or tub
may be only a few inches covered
by it. In this way the soil about
the plant is kept sufficiently moist
without the risk of any excess.
Among Marsh Plants may be reck-
oned the different kinds of Sedge,
some of which are very ornament-
al; the Buck Bean, the Water
Violet, the Sweet-scented Rush, the
Forget-me-not, the Marsh Bedstraw,
and many others.

Marracon Lity.—Those Lilies
which have the segments of the
perianth so completely turned back,
as to form no bad representation of
a Turk’s cap. In the midland
counties these flowers are called
Turn-again-gentlemen. For their
culture see Li’Lrum.

Marry’nta.— Pedalinee.—Half-
hardy annuals, with very oily seeds,
which require to be raised on a hot-
bed, but which may be planted out
in May. M. fragrans is the most
beautiful.

Marvet or Peru.—See Mira’st-
LIS.

Mastic Tree.—A kind of Pis-
tacia tree, producing the gum mas-
tic.

Marnio'na. — Crucifere. — The

_L Ten-week Stock is an annual which

‘ should be raised on a hotbed, and
transplanted into a very rich sandy

283

MAXILLARIA.

loam in May. The remains of
celery trenches which have been
grown in a sandy or calcareous
loam, form the best soil for Stocks
of all kinds; but where this kind
of soil cannot be obtained, sand
or chalk, enriched with vegetable
mould, will do extremely well.
The finest Stocks I ever saw were
in a garden at Greenhithe, the soil
of which was chalk, and in Mrs.
Humphrey’s garden at Shenstone,
the soil of which was a loamy sand ;
and though both these were bien-
nial Stocks, the same soil would
have grown the annual ones equal-
ly well. Some of the finest Stocks
in British gardens are from seed
raised in Germany and Russia ;
and the plants raised from this seed
are called German and Russian

Stocks. For the culture of the
biennial species, see Brompron
Sroces.

Maura'npya. — Scrophularinee.
—Elegant climbing plants, with
beautiful dark blue or purple flow-
ers, Which are rather tender, and
are generally killed in winter if
planted in the open ground. They
do not require much room for their
roots, and generally flower best in
a pot, as their roots are so weak
and delicate as easily to be killed
by having coarse-growing plants
nearthem. MM. Barelaydna thrives
best in a pot with wires fixed in
the rim for it to run over (see fig
37 ;) and thus treated, it forms an
extremely beautiful object in a bal-
cony garden. All the Maurandyas
should be grown in hight rich soil ;
and they are increased by seeds or
cuttings.

Maxitra‘ria.—- Orchiddcee.— A
very extensive genus of Epiphytes,
some of which have their flowers
hanging down from the roots, and
are grown in baskets of moss, the
husks of cocoa-nuts, or on pieces of
wood with the bark on, or hung
by wires to the rafters of the damp

spe

MECONOPSIS.

284

MELASTOMA.

stove or orchideous house. Some
of the species have upright flower-
stems, and are grown in pots in
brick rubbish, mized with sand or
heath-mould, and a little loam.
Most of the kinds are handsome,
and some have splendid flowers.
May Appie.—-Sée Poporuy’Liuo. |

|

i |
Ih

Fig. 37.—Pot for Training.

Ma'yrenus. — Celastrinee. —An
evergreen shrub, a native of Chili, |
with yellowish flowers, which are
produced in great abundance in|
May. It is nearly hardy, and only
requires a slight protection during
severe frosts.

Meapow Sarrron.—The popular
English name for Colchicum.

Mecono’psis. — Papaverdcee. —
The new name for the Welsh Pop-

py, Papdver cambrica, L. This
plant, which has yellow flowers, is
a native of mountainous places in
Wales; and it is of easy culture in
any soil which is poor rather than
rich.

Mepica'co. — Leguminosae. —
Weedy-looking plants, with yellow
pea-flowers, which are generally
single or in small clusters. The
seed-pods of many of the species
are very curious, some resembling
snails, others hedgehogs, and others
beehives. In old seed catalogues
these names are all found enume-
rated; but they are omitted in those
of the present date, as the plants
to which they belong are found not
worth growing.

Mevavev'ca.— Myrtacee.—Aus-
tralian shrubs, with very singular
tassel-like flowers, which the first
settlers in New Holland called the
tea trees, and which are nearly al-
lied to Metrosideros. One species,
M. nereijolia, which has yellow
flowers with petals, has been re-
moved to the genus Tristania ; M.
Cajuputi, from which the Cajeput
oil is made, and M. Leucadéndron,
the Black and White Tree, are
natives of the East Indies, and re-
quire a stove in England; but all
the Australian species are green-
house plants. One of the hand-
somest of these, M. fulgens, has its
flowers in a long spike, which looks
like a bottle-brush. All the kinds
should be grown in a compost of
sand, loam, and peat; and they are
all propagated by cuttings. °

Meta'nruium.— Melanthécee.-—
Pretty little plants with bulbous
roots and blackish flowers, mostly
natives of the Cape of Good Hope,
and requiring the usual treatment
of Cape bulbs.

Metasro‘ma. — Melastomécea.—
Very handsome stove shrubs, with
large showy flowers. The leaves
are also large and strongly ribbed.
The fruit is eatable, and filled with

MELISSA.

285

MENISPERMUM.

a_ black pulp ; whence the name of situation, and which are propagated

Melastoma, or Black-mouth, is said

to be given to it because it stains |

the mouths of those who eat it.
All the species are natives of Cey-
lon and other parts of the East In-
dies; and they all require to be
grown in peat, and kept rather dry
during winter.
Me‘iia.—Melidcee.—The Bead
Tree. M. Azédarach, the common
Bead Tree, is a half-hardy shrub,
or tree, with lilach flowers and yel-
low berries, the pulp of which is
poisonous; but the hard stone in
the centre is used to make rosarics.

There is another species, M. sem- |

pervirens, which is a native of the
West Indies, where it is called the

Indian Lilach, or Pride of India. |
Both kinds are generally kept in

the stove in England, where they
will ripen their seeds; but the first

kind does very well against a con- |
servative wall, and it has flowered |

in the open air at Bayswater and
other places. It will grow best in
loam and peat, and it is propagated
by cuttings.

Meuia'nruus. — Ruticee.— The
Honey -flower. A half- shrubby
greenhouse plant, with bluish green,

or rather gray, leaves, sometimes |
called Sicilian Ragwort. If planted |

in the open air, and slightly protected
from frost, it will grow ten feet high,
and produce its large spikes of
brownish red flowers abundantly.
It is a native of the Cape of Good
Hope. It should be grown im light
rich soil, if it be wanted to attain a
large size; or in sand, mixed with
a little loam and lime rabbish, if it
be wanted to flower while yet of a
small size. It looks very well trained
against a south wall.

Menr'ssa.— Labicte—The Balm.
None of the species are particularly
ornamental, but they are worth
growing for the fragrance of their
-eaves. ‘They are all hardy peren-
nials, which will grow in any soil or

| by dividing the roots.

MeEvoca'crus.— Cactécee.—The
‘Melon Thistle. All these plants
have a sort of crown of cottony
substance, which sometimes grows
_to an enormous size. ‘The flowers
are generally red, and are produced
; around this crown. They are na-
tives of the hottest part of the
_tropics, and should be kept in a dry
stove in England. They should be
grown in a little sandy loam, mixed
_ with two-thirds of lime rubbish ; and
the pots in which they grow must
_be well drained with cinders, as they
_are very liable to damp off or rot, if
any stagnant water be suffered to
remain about the roots. They are
very much improved by plunging the
pots in which they grow into tan,
and thus affording the plants bottom-
heat.

Merron Tuistte. — See Meto-
ca’CTUS. :

Menisre/rMum.— Menispermacee.
—Handsome climbing shrubs, na-
tives of Europe and North America,
with curiously-shaped leaves, ra-
cemes of yellowish or greenish whi'e
flowers, and red or black berries,
which have somewhat of an intoxi-
cating quality. M. canadénse, which
is the commonest species, is a hardy
free-growing climber, admirably
adapted for covering a wall or arbour
in a very short time, and in a very
ornamental manner. It is well de-
serving of general cultivation, and
yet it is comparatively little known ;
perhaps on account of the modest
colour of its elegant little drooping
racemes of flowers, which are gen-
erally hidden from common observers
by the leaves. Its English name of
Moonseed is derived from the shape
of the seed, which resembles a cres-
cent or half-moon. It will grow in
any soil or situation ; and it looks
very well on a lawn trained up a
single pole, and with the extremity
of its branches left to spread them-

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM. 286 MESPILUS.

selves to the wind at pleasure. It covered with ice. The flowers of
also looks very well trained to form these plants are white; but there
a pillar, or to a frame with an um-_ are other Mesembryanthemums with
brella top, &c. pink or purple flowers, and those of

Menya’ntues.--Gentidnee.—-The | the commonest and hardiest kind,
Buck-bean. The European kinds M. pomeridianum, are of a brilliant
have white flowers, but some of the | yellow. This kind is an annual, the
exotic species, now called Villarsia, | seeds of which should be sown on
which are natives of Australia and) a hotbed, and the young plants
the Cape, are very handsome, with | transferred to the open ground in
very showy yellow flowers. They | May; and they should be always
are all marsh plants, and should be | planted out into the open border, as
sown or planted in the mud or soft | they never flower well in a pot. The
ground left-by the water. Some of | perennial kinds may be grown either
the kinds are only half-hardy. in pots, or in the open ground ; but

Menzie'sia.— Ericdcee.— Little | in the latter case they should either
heath-like plants, formerly included | _be taken up or carefully protected
in the genus Erica, natives of Eu- | during winter, as they are killed by
rope and North America. The/| the slightest frost. They should be
commonest kind (M. poly folia), St.| grown in sandy or gravelly soil,
Daboec’s Heath, is found wild in which, for the larger-growing spe-
Ireland. The flowers are larger| cies, may be mixed with a little
and more globular than those of the | | loam ; but even of these, the poorer
common Heaths, and much hand-| and more sandy the soil, the more
somer. ‘They are quite hardy, and | | brilliant will be the colours of the
only require to be grown in sandy | flowers, though the leaves and stems
peat, or heath-mould. will become small and weak. All

Mesemerya'ntHEMUM. —Ficoidd- | the species should be kept quite dry
ce@a.—The name of Mesembryan- | when in a dormant state, and abun-
themum is derived from mesembria, | dantly supplied with water when
mid-day, and anthos,a flower; and | they are about to flower; and all
this name admirably expresses the | | the perennial kinds are propagated
habit of the plants, their flowers | by cuttings, which should be kept dry
only expanding in the brightest sun- | for several days after they are put into
shine. The English name of Fig | the ground, till they begin to wither,
Marigold alludes to the fruit, which ; when they should be supplied with a
is shaped like a fig, and which is / little water, and they will directly be-
eaten by the Hottentots ; and to the | gin to throw out roots. The pots in
flower, which resembles that of a | which these plants are grown should
Marigold in shape, and sometimes | be well drained with cinders; and
in colour. There are two kinds of| when planted out in the open air, it
Mesembryanthemum which are call- | should be on a dry, open, suuny bank.
ed the Ice-plant-—viz. M. glaci: jle| Mu'spitus.—Rosicee.—This is
and M. crystallinum, the former be- | one of those genera which have been
ing an annual, and the latter a bien- | dismantled, and almost annihilated,
nial—and they take their English | by modern botanists. A few years
name from the little globular protu- | ago, almost all the flowering shrubs
berances, or rather blisters (which | and low trees, included in the order
botanists call papule), filled with a| Rosacew, were referred to Mespilus.
soft watery matter, which glisten | All the Crateguses, a great number
over the whole of the plants, and of the Pyruses, the Aronias, Ame-
make them look as though they were | lanchier, Eriobotrya, and many

MIGNIONETTE.

other allied genera, were all consid-
ered to belong to Mespilus. Now,
however, the genus Mespilus is con-
fined to the two kinds of Medlars ;
and even of these, M. grandiflora
seems rather doubtful. Méspilus
germanica, the common Medlar, and
its varieties, are now, therefore, the
sole support of this once extensive
genus; and they are not only trees
of considerable size, but trees that,
notwithstanding their large white
blossoms, are too coarse-growing to
be called ornamental.
Merrost'peros. — Myrtaceae. —
Australian and Cape shrubs, with
tassel-like flowers, nearly allied to
Melaleuca. One species (M. ve-
rus), the Ironwood, is a tree, and
a native of the East Indies. The
most beautiful of the Australian
shrubs formerly considered as be-
longing to this genus, are now re-
moved to the genus Callistemon ;
and these have generally crimson
flowers. The remaining species
are generally kept in a greenhouse
in England, but they may be grown
in the open air, if they are slightly
protected during winter; and in
sheltered situations they will indeed
often stand several years without
any protection whatever. They
should be grown in a mixture of
sandy loam and peat, but any com-
mon garden soil will do; and when
grown in the open air, they should
be trained against a wall. They
are propagated by cuttings of the
ripened wood, which cannot be
struck without the help of sand,
bottom-heat, and a bell-glass.
Mientonette.—Reéseda odorata.
—This well-known plant is gene-
rally considered as an annual, and
sown every year as such; but it is,
in fact, a shrub, and if preserved
carefully through the winter, in two
or three years its stem will become
quite woody. In this state it is
called the Tree Mignionette, and is
supposed by many to be a different

28

~>

i MIGNIONETTE.

species. It is a native of Barbary,
and grows wild on the sandy shore
of Algiers. The name Mignionette,
which is French for “the little
darling,’ is supposed to have been
given to it on account of its seeds
having been first sent to England
from Paris. It is rather singular,
however, that it should be known
by a French name in England, while
in France it is called by its Latin
name of Reseda.

Mignionette should always be
sown in light, sandy soil, if possi-
ble; as, when grown in arich loam,
it loses its fragrance. With a little
management, it may be contrived
to have Mignionette in flower every
month during the year, without the
aid of either a regular gardener or
a hothouse. In order that the plants
may flower in winter, the seed
should be sown in the open border
in July. Or, if it be more conve-
nient, the seeds may be sown in
pots in that month, placing the pots
in a balcony, outside a window, or
in any situation where they will
have abundance of light and air.
In September, the plants should be
removed to the pots in which they
are to flower, and only a sufficient
number left in each to make the
pots look full without the plants
being so crowded as to occasion
them to be drawn up. This num-
ker must, of course, vary according
to the size of the pot; but it should
never exceed eight, or be less than
three. The pots should then be
taken into the house, and placed in
any convenient situation in a room
without a fire, till they have formed
their blossom-buds, which will be
the latter end of October, when
they should be removed to a win-
dow in a room where there is a fire ;
when they will throw out abun-
dance of branches, and will continue
flowering beautifully during No-
vember, December, and January ;
and, if they are regularly watered

MIGNIONETTE.

288

MIGNIONETTE.

every day, till the following March. | to flower, having been first put into
The seeds of the plants which are | other pots, somewhat larger than
to come into flower in March to | themselves, and the interstices be-
succeed them, should be sown in _ tween the two being stuffed with
pots at the latter end of August, | moss, which may also be laid on
and the pots may be placed in a| the surface of the earth in the inner

spare bedroom, or in any open shed,
or other situation under cover,
where they will have plenty of light,
and can have air occasionally.
Early in November they should be
thinned out, or transplanted, so as
to leave only six or eight plants in
a pot, and these pots should be
plunged into a shallow box or pack-
ing-case, half filled with coal-ashes,
and placed in a cellar, or back
kitchen, or, in short, any place
where they will not have much
heat, and yet be protected from
frost. While in this situation, they
should be regularly watered once or
twice a week; and as no light is
better than only a little, they may
be covered with a piece of old car-
peting, or an old ironing-blanket ;
supported by a few sticks stuck in
the earth, so as to prevent it from
crushing the plants by its weight.

In this situation, though they will |

become quite blanched, they will
grow freely, and be well-shaped
plants; while, on the contrary, if
they had not been covered, as they
could not be put in a window on
account of the danger from frost,
they would have become etiolated,
or drawn up, with weak, ill-shaped
stems, in the efforts they would
have made to reach the light. Be-
sides, the blanket will save them
from being injured by frost. About
a fortnight before they are wanted
to flower, the blanket may be taken
off. and the box removed to the
window of the kitchen, or some
place where there is a constant fire;
when the plants will soon become
quite green, and will form their
flower-buds. The pots may then
be taken out of their box, and re-

pot; or if moss cannot easily be
obtained, double pots will suffice,
the outer one being only just large
enough to admit the inner one.
third crop may be sown in Febru-
ary, in pots, which may be kept
under shelter till all danger is over
from frost, and which may be then
set out on window-sills, or in any
other situation in the open air, and
which will flower in May, June,
and July, continuing in flower till
they are succeeded by a fourth crop
sown in April, in the open ground,
or in pots in the open air, which
will come into flower in July, and
continue till November.

When it is wished to obtain a
plant of Tree Mignionette, a healthy
vigorous plant of Mignionette sown ~
in April should be placed, at the
proper time for transplanting, in a
pot by itself, and the blossom buds
should be taken off as fast as they
appear. In antumn, all the lower
side shoots should be cut off, so as
to shape the plant into a miniature
tree, and it should be transplanted
into a larger pot, with fresh soil,
formed of turfy loam broken small,
but not sifted, and sand. It should
then be removed to a greenhouse,
or warm room, and by being regu-
larly watered every day, and kept
tolerably warm, it will remain in a
growing state all the winter, and by
spring its stem will begin to appear
woody. It should be treated in the
same manner the following year,
all the side branches being cut off —
as they appear, except those that
are to form the head of the tree;
and by the third spring it will have
bark on its trunk, and be completely
a shrub. It may now be suffered

moved to the room where they are| to flower, and its blossoms, which

Pet

ae

=

MILDEW. 289 MIMOSA.

will be delightfully fragrant, will dew generally attacks bulbs; and
continue to be produced every sum- | when the Crocus is cultivated for
mer, for a great many years in suc- | saffron, sometimes ihe entire crop
cession. ‘is thus destroyed. Mazany remedies

Many persons save their own for mildew have been recommended,
seed of. the common Mignionette ; | but none can be depended on; and
but it is hardly worth while to do so, the best means of preventing its
as it is generally both good and. appearance seems to be keeping the
cheap in the seed-shops. plants in a state of vigorous growth ;

Mirpew.—Rose-trees and many as it is generally found only on such
other plants are very apt to be plants as do not appear to have had
affected in autumn with a white or | sufficient strength to resist its at
brownish appearance on the leaves, | tacks.

which is sometimes called the blight, Mizrort.—See AcuILie‘s.
bat more properly rust or mildew. Miixvercu.—See Asrra’GALus.
The cause of this appearance was| Muitxwort.—See Pory’cara.

long unknown; and some supposed; M1'iua.—Asphodélee—A Mexi-
it to be produced by unhealthy | can plant, with flowers of the most
winds, and others that it was the brilliant and purest white, which
work of insects ; it is now, however, | continue expanded day and night,
satisfactorily proved to be a para- | till they fade, instead of closing at
sitic plant or Fungus growing on | night, as is usual with plants of the
the leaves, as Lichens and other) same family. They will grow in
Fungi grow on the bark. any common soil, and only require
» The parasitic Fungi known by | a slight protection from frost, such
the general name of mildew are of | as covering with dead leaves, &c.,
three kinds, viz.: those that grow | during winter.
on the surface of the leaf, those Micro‘n1a. — Orchidicee. — A
which form under the epidermis or | very beautiful epiphyte from Brazil,
outer skin, and those that attack | with its flowers on erect stems, like
the root. The first kind may some-| those of the Cattleya, which. this
times be removed by abundant wa-| plant somewhat resembles. Though
tering ; which not only gives vigour | an epiphyte, it is generally grown
to the plant, but actually tends to | in England in a pot, in loam mixed
loosen the hold the Fungus has; with sand and rubbish, and it re-
taken of the leaves ; but the second | quires the same treatment as other
kind can only be stopped in .ts ca- | orchidecus epiphytal plants, which
reer by the removal and burning | wil! bear being grown in pots.
of all the infected leaves; and the | Mimo'sa.— Lezuminése.—Tothis
third generally occasions the death | genus belong the Sensitive Plant,
of the plant. The different kinds | of which there may be said to be
of Uredo (from ure, to burn or) three species, the leaves of ail of
scorch), which look as though the} which shrink to the touch, viz.:
under side of the leaves were cov-| M. sensitiva, a native of Brazil,
ered over with a brown powder, and: growing about one foot high, with
the different kinds of Aécidium which | pale ball-like pink flowers ; M. pudz-
rise like pimples over the leaves, and,j ea, a native of Brazil, growing about
burst when ripe, are the most de-| one foot high, with white fiowers;
structive. The smut which attacks }and M. casta, a native of the East
the com crops belongs to the first | Indies, growing about two feet high,
of these genera, and the Barberry| with pale yellow flowers. MM. pu-
mildew to the last. The root mil-! dica is the Sensitive Plant most cul-

25 wet

MIMULUS. 250 MONANTHES.

tivated; the former however is a! springmg up and flowering abun-
shrub, and the latter an annual or | dantly every spring. The shrubby
biennial. Both may be raised on a / kinds are now separated from the
hotbed in spring, with the tender | others, and formed into a new ge-
‘annuals; and either kept in pots| nus, under the name of Diplacus.
throughout the summer, or turned, (See Dr'pracus.) The name of
out into the open border about the | Monkey-plant alludes to the seeds,
end of May. Many species for-| which are marked so as to bear
merly included under the genus; some resemblance to the face of a
Mimosa are now removed to Aca-| monkey.

cia; the principal distinction be- Mirra sitis.— Nyctaginee.— The
tween the genera being that Mimo-| Marvel of Peru. These plants,
sa has a jointed seed-pod, which | though generally treated as annuals,
Acacia has not. Several other) have fusiform tuberous roots, which
~ genera have also been formed out | may be taken up every year and re-
of Mimosa. Some of the kinds are | planted, like those of the Dahlia
stove-plants; others thrive in a| They requirea rich soil.
greenhouse; and M. margindta,| Muirse'xt1a.—Leguminose. — An
Dec., the M. prostraia of the nur-| Australian shrub, with pretty pea-
series, is sufficiently hardy to stand | flowers; which is generally kept in
ordinary winters against a conserva-| a greenhouse in British gardens.—
tive wall. They should be all grown | See AusTraLian Survss.

in a mixtureof loam and peat; and| MistLeroxe.—See Vi'scum.

they are propagated by seeds orcut-| Mo xucce’itta.—Labidte.- Mol-

tings. davian Balm. A hardy annualy
Myr'mutus. — Scrophularinee. — ose only requires sowing in March

The Monkey-flower. The first Mi-| or April, in the open border, m any

M. ringens, in the time o cit Mory.—A kind of garlic, with
and M. glutindsus, a shrubby spe-| very pretty yellow flowers.—See
cies, with orange flowers, was the | A’LLiuM.

second. Since then numerous spe- Momo'rpica. — Cucurbitacee, —
cies have been introduced from |The Squirting Cucumber. An an.
North and South America, annuals | nual gourd-like plant, with woolly
and perennials, and one other shrub. | leaves, and yellow flowers, the fruit
All the herbaceous kinds of Mimu-| of which resembles a small cucum-
lus cross freely with each other, and | ber; and which, when ripe, bursts
thus a great number of showy p! lants | the moment it is touched, scattering
have been raised »#particularly by | its seeds, and the half-liquid, pulpy
Mr. James M’Nab, of the Experi- | matter in which they are contained,
mental Garden, Edinburgh. They |to a considerable distance. This
should all be grown in a compost | quality made it a favourite, in gar-
of peat and loam, and supplied abun-| dens, a century ago, when some
dantly with water; indeed, when | people were yet in a state of su
grown in pots, they should be kept: cient barbarism to find amuseme
constantly standing in saucers full|.in the annoyance of others ; but it
of water. They are all very nearly | has now deservedly fallen into dis.
hardy; and M. réseus, M. cardind- | repute, and is seldom grown.

lis, and M. moschata, will grow in| Mowna'nrues. — Crassuldcee. —

mulus introduced into >of er | comimon garden soiul—See ANNUALS.

the open air for several years | Sempervivum Monanthes, a kind of ©

without any protection, dying down | House-leek, with red flowers, from
to the ground in winter, — Canary Isles.

:

a a er

MONGCIOUS PLANTS. 291 st MORMODES.

Mona’rpa.— Labidte. — Hardy | same plant; while Diacious plants
herbaceous plants, with showy |are those that have the male and
flowers, natives of North America; | female flowers distinct, and on dif-
they grow best in a rich Jight soil, | ferent plants.
and they are increased by dividing Mono'psis.—-Lobelidcee.—A very

the root. beautiful little trailing plant, having
Money Worr.—-Lysimdchia num- | dark-blue flowers with conspicuous

mularia.-—A trailing plant, with} yellow anthers, and the flowers on
yellow flowers, which should be| long footstalks. It is a native of
grown in peat, or some other light | the Cape of Good Hope, and it
soil, and kept moist. Its long trail- | should be grown in sandy peat. It
ing shoots look very well hanging | is suitable for rockwork.

over the sides of a rustic basket or Monso\n1a.—Greraniacee.— Very
vase, supported on a pedestal, or on | beautiful herbaceous plants, nearly
rockwork ; and in such situations, | allied to the Geraniums, but with
if kept moist, they will flower abun- | much larger flowers, and named
dantly ; while the same plant re-|in honour of Lady |
moved into the shade will not pro- | They are now rarely seen, but well
duce a single flower, and is easily | deserve cultivation. They should

killed if watering be neglected. be grown in a mixture of vegetable
Monkey Fiower.—See Mi'mu-| mould and loam, and kept in a
Lus, and Di'piacus. greenhouse. They are propagated

Mong Fitower.—See Monoca’n- | by cuttings, or dividing the roots.
THUS. They are natives of the Cape of
* Monxsuoop.—See Aconitum. Good Hope.

Monoca'nruus. — Orchiddcee.— | Moon-seep—-See MEnIsPe’RMUM.

The Monk Flower. An orchideous : as ar-

epiphyte from Demerara and Brazil, | bér e

Moor Hearu.— The English
name of Gypsoca’LLIs.

Mor#‘sa. — fridee. — Bulbous-
rooted plants, with very handsome
flowers, nearly allied to Ixia, from
which genus they have been re-
moved. ‘They are generally grown
in pots in a mixture of sandy loam
and vegetable mould; and when
they have done flowering, they
should be kept “dry till they begin
to grow in spring. When planted
in the open ground, they should
be protected from frost and heavy

requiring the usual treatment of
similar plants—See OxrcuipEous
EpienyTes.
Monocutamy'pex.—Plants hay-
ing only a calyx and no corolla ; in
opposition to DicuLamy’pE#, which
are the plants which have both a
calyx and a corolla.
“VonocotyLeponous Pants are
those, seeds of which send up only
one cotyledon or seed-leaf when
they vegetate; and have leaves, the
veins of which are in parallel lines.
The ligneous or woody plants be-
longing to this division increase very
tle in thickness during the whole
ae of their existence ; and their
wood consists of fibrous matter, | sh be sown in the open border
fresh quantities of which are depo- | im March or April.
sited every year within the stem.— |} ~ © Mabico' pEs.— Orchiddcee. — An
See Enpocens. orehideous epiphyte, with dark pur-
Monecious Prants are those | ple flowers, from the Spanish Main.
which have the male and female} It should be grown on a piece of
flowers separate, but still on the} wood—See Orcuipeous Erirnytes.

rains
BP Monica’np. — Crucifere.—A
er y pretty hardy annual, which

|

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*

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ot hw

trees.

MOSSIIOUSES. 299

Mo’rna.— Composite. — Beauti-
ful half-hardy annuals, with ever-
lasting flowers, which should be
raised®on a hotbed, and planted out
in May.

Mossuouses are constructed of
wood lined with rough boards, to
which Moss, either of one or of
different kinds, is attached by cor
or wire, and nails. The roof is
also covered with boards, to which

other times heath, or the mossy bark
of oak, pine, birch, or other old
The floor is generally paved
with blocks of wood, or sometimes
with small pebbles, or any other
material, according to fancy. ‘The
ceilings are generally lined with
moss in the same manner as the
side walls, and both may be formed
into panels according to the taste
of the designer.
many kinds of Moss and Lichens
which may be used for lining moss-
houses. Of terrestrial Mosses, those
which are most common are the
Dicranum glaicum, which is of a
whitish green, and Bry‘um hérnum,
which is of a yellowish green;
Sphagnum acutifolium is of a pink- |
ish colour, and S. obtusifolium is |
of a yellowish white. The eG,
mon Tree Mosses, or technically
Lichens, are Cendmyce rangiferina, |
the Reindeer Moss. which is found
on tne Ash, and on many other
trees, and is white. This Moss also
grows in great abundance on poor
gravelly soils, among heath, for ex-
ample, on Bagshot Heath, near
London. Any quantity of the green
mosses, and also of the yellow
kinds, may be purchased in Covent
Garden market; and the Reindeer
Moss, if ordered from local nursery-

is fixed sometimes thatch, and at

There are a great |

MOULD.

somest mosshouses in England
have been erected in Bagshot Park,
the seat of the Duchess of Glouces-
ter, by Her Royal Highness’s very
intelligent gardener, Mr. Toward.
Mosshouses must not be confounded
with roothouses, which are formed
with fantastic roots, or with wood-
houses, which are formed witi
branches of trees with the bark on.
When a mosshouse is to be erected,
the first thing to be done is to make

a drawing of the effect that it is in- |

tended to produce, and then to
prepare the frame. If the moss-
house is to be only a kind of alcove
open in front and without windows,
it will be easy to get some wocd,
and any man-servant who can use
a saw and a hammer can put it
together; but if it is to have a door
and windows, a regular carpenter
must be called in. Inthe first case,
young Pine and Larch trees that
have been cut down in thinning
plantations will do very well. When
the framework is completed, lathes
must be nailed across the compart-
ments, between which the moss is
thrust with a wooden knife, or blunt
chisel, the root end being lowest.
The great art consists in arranging
the moss so as to form a pattern;
and this is accomplished by sorting
the moss into heaps of the different
colours, tracing the pattern rudely
on the lathes, and keeping a co-
loured copy of the design before
the operator. ‘The moss should be
so contrived as completely to hide
the lathes, and it should also be
pushed in to a sufficient depth to be
quite firm. The lines of the figure
should be quite distinct, and
colours clear, and well contrasted.
Movu.ip.—Thoroughly decompos-

men adjoining heaths, may be col-|ed leaves or putrescent manure,
lected by the same persons who| mixed with sand or other light soil,
supply them with the other Mosses.|is called mould, which is chiefly
Almost every thing in an affair of | distinguished from soils by its con-
this kind must be left to the fang anny but a small portion of earthy
of the designer. Some of the hand- ‘matter: hence we have leaf-mould,

* a
% un ee
a.

sey

meee a

MOWING. 993 MULCHING.

composed chiefly of rotten leaves;!short and smooth. It is the most
dung-mould, of dung reduced to a} laborious operation which falls tc
dry “powdery matter ; ; and heath- | the lot of the working-gardener, and
mould, consisting of the black vege- | in large places there are generally
table soil found on the surface of | a set of labourers who are not gar-
heaths, and always more or less | deners, who are kept on purpose for
mixed with sand. The two first it. A substitute for mowing with
kinds of mould are used for growing | the scythe has lately been intro-
plants which in cultivation are coves in the form of a mowing-ma-
siderably removed from a state o ine, which requires far less skill
nature, such as Pelargoniums, China | and exertion than the scythe, and
Roses, Fuchsias, Balsams, Petunias, | answers perfectly where the surface
and a great many others; and the | of the soil to be mowed is perfectly
heath-mould is used in the culture | | smooth and firm, the grass of even

of Heaths and of Ericacez, and '|
more or less in most New Holland |
and Cape shrubs, and in bulbs. In|
general, all plants whatever, from
the Oak to the Moss, will grow in
heath-mould alone, and therefore

it is a particularly useful soil in|

which to raise seedlings; and m
this respect. it differs materially
from leaf-mould and dung-mould,
in which they will not grow.

vegetables and manure mixed with

a finer part of the soil, thoroughly |

pulverized by repeated digging, rak-
ing, and hoeing.

Mountain Asu—Py‘rus aucu-
paria.—A well-known tree, very

ornamental in shrubberies for the |
abundance of red berries with which |

it is covered every autumn. It is
quite hardy, and will grow in any
soil and situation.

Movuse.— Mice are sometimes |

troublesome in gardens in country

places, particularly where there are |
many bulbs planted, as they eat the |

solid bulbs or corms. ‘To prevent
their ravages, chopped furze is some-
times buried with the bulbs, or the
clipping of those hedges or rose-
“ briers is laid over the bed.

Movine Puant. — Hedy'sarum
gy‘rans.

Mowrne is an operation perform-
ed with the scythe, and in orna-
mental gardening it is used for the
purpose of keeping the grass quit

20*

Gar- |
den mould is composed of decayed |

quality, and the mac hine only use 2
in dry weather. It is particuli

adapted for amateurs, affording an

excellent exercise to the arms and
every part of the body; but it is
proper to observe that many gar-
deners are prejudiced against it.
Where a lawn is varied by numer-
ous small beds or single trees or
| bushes, the scythe is required, in
addition to the machine, for mowing
_up close to the branches or stems ot
the plants; but where an amateur
mows his own lawn with a ma-
chine, a better instrument than the
scythe for the purpose mentioned,
is a pair of common hedge-shears,
| with which the grass may be clip-
ped as short as it can be mown.
When a lawn is newly formed, and
the soil is rich, it will require to be
/mown every eight or ten days for
the first and second summers ; but
afterwards, when the soil becomes
| exhausted, and the grass grows with
less vigour, once a fortnight for the
three summer months will suffice,
and once every three weeks or a
month for the autumn.

Mucu\na.— Leguminése.—Cow-
itch. A stove plant, with beautiful
drooping racemes of large purple
flowers. The seeds are covered with
short stiff hairs, very irritating to
the skin.

Muucuine is seldom used in
flower-gardens, though it may be
pppied advantageously to Camel-

at

MYGINDA. 294 MYRTUS.

lias and Magnolias, and any other| They are generally stove plants in
half-tender shrubs. It consists in| England, and they should be grown
laying a quantity of straw or litter | in sandy loam.
round the stem of the plant, so as| Myo'porum— Myoporine.—Aus-
to cover the whole of the roots) tralian shrubs, with white flowers,
curing winter, and either removing | generally kept in a greenhouse, and
it or forking it into the ground in| which should be grown in peat and
spring. | sand.
Moxyein.—See Verca’scum. uf Myoso‘r1s—Boraginee.—M. pa-
Mv’sa.—Musdcee.— The Plan-! listris, the Forget-me-not, delights
tain, or Banana. Stove plants, in moist places on the borders of
grown generally for their fruit, but running streams. M. sylvatica,
very ornamental from their large | which is found in woods, resembles
leaves and curious flowers. Most it, but the flowers are very inferior.
* of the species require a great deal) Myosu‘rus. — Ranunculécee. —
‘of room, as they will neither flower Mouse-tail—A Bnitish weed, with
‘nor fruit till they attain a large! pretty flowers, that looks well on ©
size. They should be grown in a/ rockwork.
rich loam kept moist, and they are| Myrt'ca. — Myricdcee. — The
increased by suckers. The new | Candleberry Myrtle and the Sweet ©
kind, Mtsa Cavendishii, flowers Gale belong to this genus, and they
when of a much smaller size than are both interesting to the botanist.
any of the other kinds. | They should be grown in loam and
Musca‘r1. — Asphodélea.— The | peat, and they are propagated by
Grape Hyacinth. Bulbous-rooted | cuttings.
plants that only require planting in| My’rrus—Myrtdcee—A genus
any common garden soil; where of beautiful evergreen shrubs, na-
they may remain several years, | tives of Europe, Asia, South Amer-
flowering every year in succession, |ica, and some of them of New
without any care being necessary | Holland. The common myrtle, M.
in taking them up, &c. | commitnis, of which there are eight
Musk Prianr.— There are two or ten very distinct varieties, is too
plants known by this name, viz.,| well known to require any descrip-
Mimulus moschcita, a dwarf plant tion. They are not surpassed in
with yellow flowers; and A’ster ar-| beauty of foliage by any exotic
gophy'llus, a tall plant with blue | shrub, and the flowers are of a pure
flowers. | white, and, like the leaves, fragrant.
Mori'sta.—Compésite.—Curious | The fragrance arises from an oil
plants, with tendrils at the extrem-| which is secreted in little cells,
ity of the leaves. They are natives| which appear as dots when the
of Brazil, and require a stove in| leaves are held up to the light. ~
England. ‘They should be grown| The handsomest varieties of the
in peat and loam, and they are common Myrtle are the Roman,
propagated by cuttings. or broad-leaved, the broad-leaved
Mya'nrnus.—Orchidicee.—F ly- | Dutch, the narrow-leaved, and the .
wort. An orchideous epiphyte from | double-flowered. They will grow
Lemerara, which should be grown|in any common soil, somewhat
in the moist stove on half-rotten; loamy, and are propagated with
wood.—See Orcurpeous Epiruyrtes. | most facility by cuttings of the cur-
Myar'nna—-Rhamndicee.—-Hand- | rent year’s wood when it is just be-
some shrubs, nearly allied to the| ginning to ripen, cut across at a
Holly: natives of the West Indies, | *oint, and then planted in sand, and

,

a.

MYRTUS.

covered with a bell-glass. Cut-
tings will root, however, taken off
at any season, and treated with
common care. When cuttings are
made of the old wood, they should
be planted to the depth of half the
space between the buds, as shown |
in fig. 38. Myrtles may also be
raised from seeds, which are pro-
duced freely by the broad-leaved
kinds. M. tomentosa is a native
of China, with woolly leaves and
purple flowers, which appear in
June and July. M. piménxto, now

Fig. 38.—A cutting of a Myrtle prepared for
planting; the dotted line showing the
ground.

made Pimenta vulgaris, is a native
of the West Indies, requiring a
stove, and is the plant producing
the common Allspice of the shops.
The common broad-leaved Myrtle
will stand the winter against a con-
servative wall, in dry soil, in most
parts of England, and also in Scot-
land, more particularly in low situ-
ations near the sea. At Nettle-
comb, in Somersetshire, there are
large trees covered with flowers. In
most parts of Ireland it is as hardy
as the common Laurustinus is in the
climate of London. Garden hedges
are made of it at Belfast, and also
at Cork

295

NARCISSUS.

N.

Naruine half-hardy shrubs against
a wallis an operation that should
be performed with great care; and
as the sole object of growing the
shrubs is on account of their being
ornamental, nothing should be shown
which tends in the slightest degree
to injure this effect. For this rea-
son the nails should be small and
| round-headed, and strips of leather
or black tape are preferable to list.

Leather is sometimes preferred to
list, even for fruit-trees, because it
does not harbour insects; but it is
too expensive to be used on a large
scale. In nailing ornamental shrubs
the branches snould not be kept so
close to the wall as fruit-trees, as
half their beauty would be lost if
they were deprived of their loose
shoots. All that is required is te
train the trunk and main branches.

Napro.eon’s WEEPING WILLow.—
This Willow differs from the com-
mon kind in several respects, and it
is probably the male variety of Sa-
liz babylénica, of which only the
female was formerly known in Eng-
land. It is of much slower growth
than the common kind, and there-
fore much better adapted for plant-
ing in a shrubbery.

Naxci'ssus. — Amarylliddeee. —
The genus Narcissus is a very ex-
tensive one, embracing, as it does,
the Jonquils, the Polyanthus Nar-
cissus, the little Hoop Petticoat,
the Poet’s Narcissus, and the Daf.
fedils, besides numerous others. The
jate Mr. Haworth paid great atten-
tion to this genus, and divided it
into thirteen new genera, none of
which, however, have been adopted
by other botanists, though their
names have been preserved in the
sections into which the genus Nar-
cissus is now divided. All the Nar-
i cissi are quite hardy, and will grow

i

=

a — OT

26

NELUMSIOM.

in any common garden soil; and
they are all increased by offsets.
They may be left in the ground
several years without sustaming

- > any injury ; the only care necessary

in their culture being not to shorten
or cut off the leaves after the plant
has flowered, but to leave them on

till they wither naturally, as their

assistance is necessary to mature
the new bulb, which forms every
year in the place of the old one. It
is the more necessary to attend to
this, as many gardeners, from a mis-
taken idea of neatness, cut off the
leaves of the Narcissi as soon as

the flowers have faded, and in this |

way first enfeeble, and finally kill

the plants. sat
Nastu’RtT1uM.—-See Trorm‘oLum.
NAvVELWoRT.—See Cory’LEDON.
Neck of a plant.—The collar,

collet, neck, or vital knot, is the |

point of junction from which spring
the ascending stem and branches,
and the descending reots. This
point has been called the heart cf
the plant, because any injury done
to it causes instant death.
Newo’msium. — Nymphdacee. —
The Indian Lotus, or Sacred Bean
of India. A stove aquatic, gener-
ally with white or pale-pink flowers ;
rather difficult to flower in this
country, as it requires great heat,
and abundance of room; the seeds
also, which are sent over from In-
dia, rarely vegetate. The seeds
should be sown in rich loamy soil,
m the bottom of a large tub, which
should be kept full of water while
the plants are growing, but which
may be allowed to become dry when
the flowers have faded. The plants
are increased by dividing the root,
or by seeds. There are two West

NERINE.
_ers freely in a stove aquarium.—See
| Ny/MPHTa.

Nemopa/ntuEes.—Celastrinee, or

Aquifolidcee.—The new name for
Tiex canadénsis.

Nemo’puita. — Hydrophyllacee.
_—Beautiful little annual plants, na-
tives of California, that require the
usual treatment of similar plants —
See CALIFORNIAN ANNUALS, and AN-
| nuaLs, p. 116-118.
| Nere'nruges. — Cytinee. — The
| Chinese Pitcher-plant. There are
_ two species in common cultivation,
one a native of China, and the cther
,of Ceylon; both of them being
marsh plants, and requiring the pot
in which they grow to stand in a
saucer full of water. N. distilia-
_iéria grows about eight feet high,
/and it shows a tendency to curl its
_tendrils round other plants, or any
object within its reach, so as to sup-
port its pitchers, which are at the
extremity of its tendrils. Both
_ species should be grown in a peaty
_soil, and they both require the heat
_ofastove. Neither the flowers nor
the fruit have the slightest beauty
to recommend them. Some new
Pitcher-plants, which are said to be
distinct species, have been recently
introduced.

Ne'peta.— Labidte. — Catmint.
Hardy herbaceous plants of no
beauty, which .grow freely in any
common soil,

Ne'rins. — Amarylliddcee. —
Showy bulbous-rooted plants, the
iype of which is the Guernsey Lily,
and which are natives of the Cape
_of Good Hope, China, and Japan.
|The Guernsey Lily is a native of
‘Japan, and the reason why it has

cbtained its English name is said
| to be, that a ship laden with ‘these

Indian Nelumbiums; one of which | buibs and other plants from China
nus pale blue, and the other palc |} was wrecked on the coast of Guern.
yellow flowers. It must be observed, | scy ; and that the bulbs being wash-
that the Nelumbium or Italian Wa- | ed on shore, took root in the sandy
ter Lily differs essentially from the | soil of the beach, and flourished

. ‘4 “ gyptian Water Lily, which flow- | there so remarkably as to be suap-
>» 3

NERIUM.

- p sed to be natives of the island.
Whether this story be true or not,
it is quite certain that for nearly |
two hundred years these bulbs have
been cultivated in Guernsey with
the greatest success, growing freely
in the open air, and producing
abundance of offsets every year,
from which the English market is
supplied. In England the bulbs
are generally planted in spring, in
pots of very sandy loam, and placed
in some window or other situatien
where they will have plenty of light ;
they flower in September and Oc- |
tober; and as soon as they have
flowered the bulbs are generally |

thrown away, as they are said never |

to flower well the second year.
This is, however, entirely the fault
of the grower, as, if they were plant-
ed in a well-drained sunny border
in the open ground, and allowed to
mature their new bulbs every year |
by the agency of the leaves, there |
is no doubt but they would live as
long as any of the kinds of Nar-
cissi, and flower as freely. The
bulbs might be protected in winter
by a layer of dead leaves, or litter
from a cowhouse; and the bed,
which should be of light sandy soil,
should be occasionally manured in
spring by a layer of old cowdung.
Ne‘rium. — Apocy'nee. — The
Oleander, or Rose Laurel. There
are three distinct species of Ne-
riem, besides several varieties. The
first of these is the common Olean-
der, a native of Italy, but which is
generally kept in a greenhouse in
England ; the second, which is
called N. flavéscens, has’ yellow
flowers; and the third, N. edérum,
which is a native of India, is a
stove plant. The greenhouse spe-
cies, and their varieties (to which
may be added N. spléndens, sup-
posed to be a hybrid between N.
Oleander and N. oddrum), all re-
quire a soil composed of one-half
loam, one quarter peat, and one

297

NICANDRA.

quarter vegetable mould, or rotten
'dung; or, if this soil cannot be ob-
|tained, equal parts of peat, loamy
| andsand. They shouldbe regularly —
watered every day; but as no wa-
ter should ever be allowed to re-
main in a stagnant state about their
roots, the: pots in which they are
grown should have no_ saucers.
They should also be repotted at

least once every year, and the soil =
shaken out from the roots, as they ;
,are plants which throw out a good

‘deal of excrementitious matter, -

which poisons the soil in which
‘they grow. ‘This repotting shoulc
take plaee in spring ; and, after it
has performed, the plants
'should be watered and set in the
‘shade for a day or two. As soon i
as they begin to grow they should —
have plenty of light and air, es
they should be regularly tered
twice a day, observing nevelles let
| any water remain in the saucer, if :
'the pot should have one, though if 57
|is much better without. Thus treat-_ F
|ed, the Oleander will grow rapidly, a
and throw out such large bunches

‘of flowers as to form truly splendid

Dg a The stove species is gen-

erally grown in rather a moist heat

[but it may be removed to the green-

house, or even the open air, durins
the hottest months of summer, if
care be taken to water its roots
twice a day, and syringe it ever,
evening overhead.

New Zeartanp Tra.—Leptospér
mum Scopérium.

Nica'npra. — Solandcee. — Thx
Alkekengi, or Kite-flower. A
strong and vigorous annual, grow-
ing five or six feet high, and throw-
ing out numerous branches. The
flowers are blue, and the fruit is ix
an inflated capsule, like that of the
bladder-nut or winter cherry. ie
is a native of Peru, and its seeds —_
should be sown in March or April,
in a shrubbery or border, where tis ”
plants may have plenty of room,

i i.

i a +,

Ww,

NIGELA.

the seeds being put into the ground |

singly, and at least three feet
apart.

Nicotia‘na.— Solanicee.— The
““*Pobavco. All the different kinds

of ‘Tobacco have showy flowers;
but the handsomest species are N.
Tabacum, the Virginian or com-
mon Tobacco, N. noctifléra, N.

multivalvis, and N. longiflora. All|

these are annuals, and their seeds
should be raised on a slight hotbed
or warm border; and the plants,
when in their second pair of leaves,
should be transplanted ee bed of
light rich soil, where t should
be planted three feet apart every
way. While the plants a young,
the joints of the leaves should be
frequently examined, in search of a

ar €aterpillar which is frequently found

_ there, and which, if not removed,

_ will eat off the points of the shoots,
and consequently destroy the beau-
» bys of the plant. WN. ristica, the |

_ common, or English Tobacco, the |

leaves of which are generally used |
for making tobacco-water, &c.,
should never be grown in a garden,
as the flowers are of a dirty green-
ish yellow, and the whole plant is
covered with clammy hairs, ex-
tremely disagreeable to the touch.

Nieremsbe’roia. — Solanaceae. — |
here are four species of Nierem- |

bergia, all natives of South Amer-
ica; viz., N. gracilis, N. aristata,

WN. filicailis, and N. calycina, all |

of which are pretty little green-
house plants, with whitish flowers,
but not at all showy.

and Dr. Graham having at first

supposed that some of the kinds of |

Petunia belonged to Nierembergia,
great confusion has arisen. The
Nierembergias should be grown in
eat and sand, and kept regularly
fatered.
Nicr’ta.— Ranunculaceae. —The
ennel-flower, or Devil in a Bush.

s .

298

| by their leafy involucres.

I have been |
thus particular in enumerating the |

. |
kinds, because from Professor Don |

ee
NOLANA.

Annual plants, with showy flowers,
which are, however, almost hidden
NN. his-
panica is the handsomest species.
They only require sowing in March
or April in the open border; or they
may be sown in autumn, as they
will stand the winter without protec-
tion, and will thus be ready to flower
early in summer.

NicuTsHaDE.—See Sora‘num.

Nisso‘t1a. — Legumindse.—The
Grass Vetch. A rare British plant,
_with grass-like leaves and bright
crimson single flowers, which looks
very well on rock-work, where it
can be kept moist.

Nirra‘ria. — Ficoidee. — Low
shrubs with white flowers, which
| are very hardy, and will grow well.
in situations exposed to the sea. In
gardens, the ground in which they
_grow should be occasionally watered
with water in which saltpetre has
been dissolved.

Nirrate or Sopa.—This sub-
| stance, which is found in great
abundance as a natural production
/of the earth in South America, is a
| very powerful manure ; but it must
_ be applied carefully, or it will make
| the leaves look brown and shrivelled.
It should always be mixed well with
the soil in which plants are to be
placed, and not laid on the surface
of soil in which plants are already
growing. When it produces its
proper effect, it gives great vigour
_to the plants, and renders their
leaves of an intensely deep green.

Nortserre Rose.—Roses which
bear their flowers in bunches, and
which were named from a nursery
'man of the name of Noisette, in
Paris, who raised the first from seed
of the common China. For the
culture, see Ro'sa.

Noxa‘na.— Nolandcee.—Trailing
annual plants, with pretty blue
flowers, that only require sowing in
March in the open border. N. airi-
plicifolia, the handsomest species,

TS

NYCTANTHUS.

299

CENOTHERA.

Se SS ——_—— eee

strongly resembles the minor Con-
volvulus.

Nouira’NGErE, or Noui-ME-Ta/N-
GERE.—See Impa‘TIENs.

No'nea.—Boraginee.—The name
given to the new genus, divided from
Anchusa, the Bugloss, and which
includes several of the most orna-
mental of the annual species, such
as A. versicolor, A. liitea, A. rdsea,
&c., and some perennials. They
are all quite hardy, and the annual
kinds only require sowing in the open
border in March.

Norrotk Is~tanp Pine.—Arau-
caria excélsa,—One of the largest
trees in the world in its native coun-
try, but which can only be grown
of small size in England, from its
requiring protection during winter.

NoreLz'‘a.— Oleadcee.— Austra-
lian shrubs with white flowers,
greatly resembling in their leaves
and general appearance the Euro-
pean Olive. ‘They are generally
kept in a greenhouse, and grown in
sandy peat; but they are nearly
hardy, and make good shrubs for
the background of a balcony.

No‘puar. — Nymphacee. — The
yellow Water-Lily. A British plant,
common in stagnant water. The
popular name is Brandy Boitle, from
the flowers smelling lke brandy.
They look very well im ponds, or
even cisterns, where they will grow
freely if the seeds are sown in a
layer of loam at the bottom. The
plants may also be increased by
division.

Nourra‘t1a.— Malvaceae. — Beau-
tiful poppy-like perennial plants,
which may be planted out in sum-
mer, but which must be protected
during winter in a frame or green-
house. They should be grown in
light rich soil, consisting principally
of vegetable mould, with a little
loam ; and, when in flower, they
are very beautiful.

Nycra'nruus.—Jasminee.—The
Indian Jasmine. This plant, which

is generally grown in a stove in
England, gives out its odour only
by night, and is the plant allude
to by Moore in the following well
known lines :-—

The timid Jasmine buds, that keep
Their odour to themselves all day ;
But, when the sunlight dies away,
Let the delicious fragrance out

To every breeze that roams about.

The plants should be grown in loam
and peat, and would probably suc-
ceed in a greenhouse, as it is found
that they do not flower well if they
are kept too hot.

Ny’mpHEeA. — Nymphdacee. —The
Water-Lily. One species of this
beautiful plant grows wild in Eng-
land, but there are others, some blue

and some pink, from Egypt, which — |

must be grown in the aquarium of a
hothouse to induce them to flower
in England. They should be grown
in a rich loamy soil, and kept in the
warmest part of the stove.

O.

O'cynum.—Labidte.—Basil. Some
of the East India perennial species
are ornamental, and worth cultiva-
ting in the stove, where they should
be grown in sandy loam.

OpvontocLo'ssum. — Orchidacee.
—A splendid genus of Mexican
epiphytes, requiring the usual treat-
ment of similar plants. See Or-
cuipEous Epreuyres.

CiNno/ruERA.— Onagrdce@.—The
Evening Primrose. Perennial, bien-
nial, and annual plants, with large
flowers. The yellow and white
flowering kinds, which are the true
Evening Primroses, are now the
only ones left in the genus, the
purple-fowered ones having been
removed to the genus Gopetia. The
Evening Primroses have the pecu-
liarity of only opening their flowe
in an evening, or when the sun
overcast ; as, contrary to the h

a

*

OFFSETS.

of most other flowers, they seem
unable to bear much light. They

ee all of the easiest culture, and

ill grow in any common garden
soil, without any other care than
occasionally taking up and replant-
ing the perennial kinds, and sowing
the annual and biennial ones every
year in March or April. Of the
biennial kinds, @. noctiirna and @.
vilidsa, both natives of the Cape of
Good Hepe, are rather tender ; and
of the perennials, G7. résea, CE.
cespiiésa and @. anisoloba, require
a slight protection during winter.
@. acaiilis, which is agpative of
Chili, though a common border
flower, should have a flower-pot or
hand-glass turned over it in severe
frosts ; CZ. cespitosa, and C4. ani-
soldba, both splendid plants, should
also be protected during winter, par-
ticularly from heavy rains, as they
are very apt to damp off if they are
exposed to too much moisture. Pax-
ton recommends removing the damp
soil from the roots of these plants
when growing in the open ground
in October, and after replacing it
with dry soil, covering the plant with

dry saw-dust, and setting a flower- |

pot over it, the hole in the bottom
having been first stopped to keep
out the snow and rain. In this state
it should remain till Mareh, when

the saw-dust should be removed, and |
the plant covered with a hand-glass |

till it can bear exposure to the cold.
Both kinds should be grown in a

mixture of peat and loam ; and both |
are propagated by dividing the root |
into pieces about an inch and a half |

jong in autumn, and planting them.
Orrsets are a natural means by

which plants propagate themselves. |

n bulbs, the offsets are small bulbs
which form by the side of the prin-
cipal one, from which they should
be brokenwff when the bulbs are
taken up and replanted. In shrubs

and perennial plants, the offsets
: her spring from the collar of the

300

i

ONCIDIUM.

old plant, or from an underground
stem; and in both cases, as they
are provided with roots of their own,
though they draw a part of their
support from the main stem, they
only require dividing and replanting
to form new plants.

Ortep Paper, or silk, is often
used as a substitute for glass in hot-
bed frames, for raising seeds or
striking cuttings: and it is pecu-
liarly adapted for the latter purpose,
as it generates more heat than

glass.
Oxtp Man’s Bearp.—See Gero-
PO’GON. &

OLeEa’NDER.—See NeE‘rium.

Onc pium.— Orchidacee.— W ell-
known orchideous plants with very
curious flowers. O. papilio, the
Butterfly-plant, is certainly as much
like a butterfly as it is possible to
imagine a flower to be; and as it is
borne on a long slender stem, which
quivers with every breeze, it forms
no bad representation of a beautiful
insect fluttering over the neighbour-
ing flowers. O. altissimum has a
spike of flowers which is sometimes
ten or twelve feet in length. All
the kinds are very handsome, and
some of them are splendid. They
are all natives of South America,
Mexico, and the West Indies; and
as they will thrive in a much lower
temperature than the Dendrobiums,
and some of the other Orchidacee,

they are very suitable for a small

hothouse. All the kinds may be
grown in pots, though some of the
smallest appear to thrive most tied
on pieces of wood, and hung from
the rafters. The soil should be turfy
peat, ‘~oken in pieces about the
size of gooseberries, and mixed with
an equal quantity of potsherds bro-
ken somewhat smaller. The pots
should be large, and filled a third
of their depth with broken potsherds
rather larger than those mixed with
the soil. Great care should be taken
in repotting any of the Oncidiums

ONOBRYCHIS. 301 OPUNTIA.
as the roots will be found to adhere Ono'nis. — Legumindse. — The
strongly to the sides of the old pot,| Rest Harrow. Little herbaceous

To

and thus are easily broken.

prevent this, the plants should be |
shifted as seldom as possible ; and |
when shifting is inevitable, they |
should be kept without water for |

several days beforehand, so that |

the plants may be in a flagging and

less power of adhesion.
Oncidiums should be regularly wa-
tered, but they should not often be
syringed overhead, as they are very
apt to rot if any water should lodge

the heart of the plant.
The commonest kinds of Onci-

dium are, O. flexudsum, a very |

beautiful species, with a long, much-
branched particle of bright yellow

flowers; QO. crispum, the flowers of |

which are of a copper colour, and
much undulated or curled; O. ai-
tissimum, with a very long flower-

yellow flowers spotted with brown ;
O. luridurt, with a panicle of green-
ish brown flowers ; and O. papilio,
the flowers of which are borne sin-
gly, on long, simple, and naked
stalks.

tissimum and O. liridum; and
there are also some dwarf species,
such as O. triquétrum and O. rani-
ferum, the latter having drooping

racemes of very small flowers. The |

colours are generally yellow and
brown, but O. pulchéllum, a very
beautiful species, has white flowers
tinged with pink, and O. triquétrum
has ‘white flowers blotched with
purple. O. raniferum should be
grown on a piece of wood hung from
the rafters; and O. papilio, and
some of the other species, may be
treated in the same manner.
Onosry’cuis. — Legumindse. —
Saintfoin. Hardy perennial plants,
some of the species of which are
pretty, and suitable for rockwork.
26

Besides these, there are |
many species nearly allied to O. al- |

and shrubby plants, some of which
are natives of Britain, and which
have generally yellow or pink flow-
ers. Most of the kinds should be
grown in peat, or in very sandy
Joam; and they are all suitable for

'reckwork. Some of the kinds from
feeble state, and their roots have |

All the.

the south of Europe are rather ten-
der; but they will all live in the

open air, with a very slight protec-

tion, during hard frosts.
: -
Ono'sma. — Boraginee.— Peren-

nial plants, natives of Europe, gene-
in the centre, or what gardeners call |

rally with yellow flowers, of low

| growth, and suitable for rockwork ;

they should be grown in sandy
peat.
Orvrera Girts.—See Manrr'sta.
O’purys.—Orchidadcee. — Dwarf

plants belonging to the terrestrial

Orchidez, with very curious flowers.
One of these, O. apifera, looks as

though a bee were buried in the
stem, somewhat branched, and with |

flower; another, O. aranifera, has
the lip in the form of a spider; and
in a third, O. muscifera, the whole
flower resembles a fly. For the
culture of these plants see O'rcuis.
Opuntia. — Cactdcee. — The
Prickly Pear. This is the hardiest
of all the genera of Cacti, as there
are some species which will live in
the open ground in England, with
only a slight protection from frost
during winter; and they grow freely
in the south of Europe. ‘The hardi-
est kind is Opuntia vulgaris, of
which there are forests on Mount
Etna, growing in chinks and crevi-
ces in the rocks, where there ap-
pears scarcely soil enough to con-
tain their roots. ‘They are equally
abundant in the rocky districts of
Spain, where they grow so vigor-
ously, and so apparently in a state
of nature, that a doubt arisen
whether they are not natives of
Spain transported at a very early
period to South America, instead
being, as is generally supposed, n

gt

OPUNTIA.

tives of Peru, introduced by the
first Spaniards who visited that
country, into Spain. The fruit,
which we call the Prickly Pear,
but which is called Turfa in Spain,
is so great a favourite in that coun-
try, that Karwinsky teils us, in
September, hundreds of venders sit
in the streets of the Spanish towns
busily employed in stripping the
fruit off the branches which have
been gathered loaded with it; their
hands and arms being fearfully
swollen with the spines which they
have not leisure to avoid, so great
is the impatience of the purchasers
to obtain the fruit. He adds that

many Spaniards will eat above a/|

hundred Prickly Pears in one day ;
and that some indulge to such an
excess, that they bring on cholera,
which is often attended by death,
especially if the sufferer attempts to
mitigate his disease by drinking
brandy. The cochineal insect is
bred on Opuntia cochinillifera, or
the Nopal tree, a native of Mexico,
and much more tender than the
common kind. A white woolly sub-
stance appears on the leaf-like stems
of the tree, like the American blight
on apple trees; and this substance
conceals the female cochineal in-
sect, which is a kind of coccus or
scale, resembling that on the pine-
apple and the vine. The male in-
sect is winged, and it is only the fe-
male that produces the dye. When
fully grown the insects are brushed
off the plant with the tail of a squir-
rel or a deer; and they are killed
by drying them in ovens, which
makes them curl up, and in this
state they are ready for sale. It is
on account of the value attached to
the cochineal as an article of com-
merce, that a branch of the Nopal
tree is mea iced into the arms of
the republic of Mexico.

All the kinds of Opuntia require
_abundance of dry air and intense
solar light, and on this account,

302

ORANGERY.

they do best in the open air ona
sunny bank sheltered by a wal!
facing the south. In a stove, espe-
cially if other plants be grown in
it requiring a moist temperature,
the Opuntias never produce either
flowers or fruit; and, indeed, often
die without any apparent cause. It
is hardly possible for any situation
to be too hot and dry for these
plants, as, like all the plants des-
tined to live in burning sands, they
are furnished with very few stomata
or breathing pores, whilst they have
abundant organs of absorption to
draw as much moisture as possible
from the soil; and thus they are
enabled to sustain heat that would
dry up and wither any plants not
succulent. On the other hand,
these very qualities render them
easily injured by a superabundance
of moisture, as they have no means
of getting rid of it ; and it soon oc-
casions them to damp off, or in
other words, to rot. The best soil
to grow Opuntias in, is a mixture
of very sandy loam with broken
bricks and rubbish from old walls ;
they require but little water at any
season, except when going into flow-
er, and then less than any of the
other kinds of Cacti. They are
propagated by cuttings, which must
be taken off at a joint and laid on a
shelf for two or three days to dry
before planting; in order that the
superfluous moisture may escape.
When planted they should not be
watered ; and when young plants
are raised from seed, they also
should not be watered when they
are transplanted. See Ca’crus.
Orancery.—A house intended
only for Orange trees may be opaque
at the back, and even the roof,
with lights only in front, provided
the plants be set out during sum-
mer. In fact, so that the plants
are preserved from the frost, they
will do with scarcely any light dur-
ing winter; and in many parts of

ORCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES.

303

ORCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES.

|as regards culture, between Pose

the Continent, they are kept in a
cellar.

Orance Tuorn.—Citriobdtus.—
Spinous shrubs, belonging to Pitto-
sporacee, natives of Port Jackson
and other parts of Australia, which,
from bearing small orange-coloured
fruit, are called Orange Thorn by
the colonists.

Orance Tree.—See Ci'rrus.

ORCHIDACEH, TERRESTRIAL.—The |
terrestrial Orchidacee are, as their |
names import, those plants belong- |
ing to this extensive order which
grow in the ground, in contradis-
tinction to the epiphytes or those
which grow with their roots exposed |
to the air. The terrestrial Orchi-
dew are of four kinds, viz., those
from the tropics, which require a
stove in England; those from the
Cape of Good Hope, which require
a greenhouse ; those from the South
of Europe, which only need a slight
protection during winter; and the
hardy kinds, most of which are
natives of Great Britain. The stove
species require nearly the same
treatment as the epiphytes (see
Orxcnipeous Epripnytes); and the
greenhouse species only differ from
other greenhouse plants in requir-
ing particular care to be paid to
their drainage. For this purpose, |
the pots should be filled one quar-
ter of their depth with broken pot-
sherds or cinders, and the soil should

plants and the terrestrial Orchidee
of the tropics, as several of the
Epiphytes may be grown to great
perfection in pots; and _ others,
though in a state of cultivation they
can only be grown well on branches
of trees, are found growing natural-
ly on exposed rocks. All the true
Epiphytes, that in their wild state
are found with their roots hanging
down in the air, grow in dense for-
ests, where shade, moisture, and

‘excessive heat, seem essential to

their existence ; and these plants
in a state of culture should general-
ly be grown in baskets, (such as
those figured in p. 208 and p. 209,)
or in husks ef cocoa-nuts, half filled
with moss, or tied on pieces of wood,
hung up from the rafters of a damp
stove, and in the shade. This rule,
however, though apparently so rea-
sonable, is not without its exceptions
in practice; probably because, as
it is impossible to imitate the natu-
ral climate of the plants exactly,
their wants are changed by the dif-
ferent situation in which they are
placed. Thus the East India Den-
drobiums and Epidendrums, both of
which in their natural state are
generally found on the branches of
trees, in a state of culture, thrive
best petted in turfy peat or chop-
ped moss, left sufficiently loose to
allow the points of the roots to

consist of turfy peat broken into| protrude oceasionally, and hang
pieces, and sand mixed with about | down over the sides of the pot.
a third of vegetable mould. The| The flowers of the Dendrobiums
half-hardy and hardy kinds may be | are generally produced in long pen-

grown either in pots or in the open
ground.—Scee O’rcuis.

OrcuipEous Epiprytres. — The
plants thus designated should, pro-
perly speaking, only be those which
in their native countries are found
hanging from the branches of trees,
with their roots exposed to the air;
as these only can be called air-
plants. It is, however, very diffi-
cult to draw a line of demarcation,

dent raceines; but those of the
Epidendrums are erect, like those
of the Oncidiums. Most of the
East Indian%pecies should always
be grown on wood ; particularly
Renanthera coccinea, and all the
kinds of Vénda and Sarcénthus;
the East Indian Dendrobiums, and
the different species of E\ria. The
species of the genera Aérides and
Celégyne, however, theugh both

¥

ORCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES.

are Bray found on trees in their

native country, may, in England,
be grown in pots, in turfy loam or
chopped moss, or in baskets of moss.
The Stanhopias and Catasetums
should be grown in baskets of moss,
or in pots hung from the rafters of
the house, as their flowers proceed
from the roots, and hang down-
ward; but the Cattleyas, which
have erect flower-stems, are always
grown in pots. Where it is not
convenient to have pots hanging
rom the rafters, the Stanhopias
must have a pile of pieces of turfy
peat raised at least six inches above
the rim of the pot, and the pseudo-
bulbs must be placed on the top;
as unless this is done, the flower-
stem, when protruded from the root,
will bury itself in the earth con-
tained in the pot, and the flowers
will be unable to expand, though
they will easily make their way
through the loose pieces of turf.
Where this mode of potting is adopt-
ed, slender pieces of wood are gen-
erally passed at regular distances
through the pile of turf, to keep the
pieces in their place. The Cata-
setums grow in open parts of the
woods of the tropical regions of

South America, and one species is |
They |

the celebrated Wourali Vine.
all require great heat and moisture,
and when grown on wood it should
be on that of soft-barked trees.
Various expedients have been de-
vised to produce the shade necessary
for some of the kinds of Orchideous
plants. The Orchideous house has
been in some cases glazed with dark
green or brownish glass, double
sashes have been used, and creeping
plants trained over the roof. None
of these plans, however, have
proved successful; as, though the
plants thus treated have grown rap-
idly, it has been to produce leaves
rather than flowers. Whether it

304

ORCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES.

their native woods, or whether the
British sun is so mutch feebler thar
that they have been accustomed to,
as to render shading unnecessary,
it is certain that the Orchideous
Epiphytes in England require plenty
of light, and that they never flower
well if kept in comparative darkness.

Another point that has puzzled
cultivators is to find out what kind
of wood is most suitable for those
kinds that are to be grown on hang-
ing branches. Mr. Henchman, who
collected Orchidew on the Spanisn
Main, asserts that he never found
an Orchideous plant on a dead tree,
whether standing or fallen, though
he found many species of Oncidium,
Catasetum, &c., growing on the
ground, as though they had been
accidentally dislodged from the trees
on which they had grown. He even
observed. that the colour of the On-
cidium papilio was much darker on
the ground than it was in its natu.
ral situation on the branches of a
lofty tree. From his findmg no
Orchidew on dead trees, he was led
to suppose that the plants draw
some kind of nourishment from the
trees on which they live; and he
also remarked that rough and soft-
barked trees were their favourite
abodes. He found Oncidium pa-
pilio, and a kiad of Schomburg-
kia, called by the Indians the
Spread Eagle, on the upper branches
of trees, which were exposed to the
air, and at least from twenty to
thirty feet from the ground, and O
luridum, and the Catasetums, on
branches fully exposed to the sun;
while the Gongoras, Rodriguezias,
and Corysanthes, were on the soft
and young wood, not more than
seven or ely, t feet from the greund,
in the most dense and thickest paris
of the forest. These hints, and the
observations of other collectors,
have been of great service to culti-

be that the plants in an artificial | vators; and in consequence they
state require more light than in| generally grow their epiphytes on

YRCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES.

305

ORCHIS.

rough-barked trees, that of the Ro- |

binia pseudo Acacia, (Cobbett’s Lo-
cust,) for example, half covering
the log with moss, to retain the
moisture, and to imitate the soft
woolly bark of some of the trees
of the tropics. These logs are hung
from nails in the rafters, or from
rods suspended across the roof; and
the pseudo bulbs or rhizomas of the
plants are bound on them with fine
wire, and covered with sphagnum,
or some other kind of moss. Messrs.
Loddiges use living plants of Lyco-
podium stoloniferum, which have
the advantage of looking better, as

well as of retaining more moisture

than any kind of dead moss. Mr.

Beaton makes a ball of moss, which |

he suspends in the hellow formed
by the branches of a three-forked

stick, which he hangs up from the |

rafters till the plants are established ;
and then he places the stick ina
pot, taking care that the length of
the stick below the fork is sufficient
to hold up the ball of moss with the
plant attached, just above the rim
of the pot—after which he fills up
the pot with pieces of turfy peat.
When the Orchideous plants are
grown in baskets, the baskets should
be made of copper wire, or if of

iron, they should be painted with |

anti-corrosive paint. They should
be formed like the basket shown in
fig. 20, in p. 209, with the bars
sufficiently apart to allow the flower-
stems of the Stanhopeas, and other
plants sending out their flower-stems
from their roots, to push their way
through, and to hang down between
the bars. For this reason, baskets
similar to that deseribed in pp. 208-
9, are not suitable for any Orchi-
deous plants but those that send up
their flower-stems from their pseudo
buibs. The baskets for Stanhopeas
and other root-flowermg plants
should be from three to six inches
deep, and from six to ten inches
wide ; and they should be filled with
26*

moss, or with strips of turf two ot
three inches wide, and placed on
end round the inside of the basket,
so as to stand nearly upright, with
| a large flat piece in the centre. The
plant should be placed in the middle,
and the basket filled up with broken
pieces of turf, mixed with crocks or
cinders, if the plant be very deli-
| cate, and easily affected by too
| much moisture. These baskets are
very convenient for Orchideous
plants, as they may either be sus-
pended from the roof, or placed on
an inverted pot; or if the plant re-
quires bottom-heat, the basket may
be placed on the surface of a pot
plunged in the hotbed. The basket
also locks better and more elegant
when the plant is in flower, and is
wanted to be shown in a drawing-
room. When Orchideous plants ar-
rive from abroad, Mr. Benton first
throws them into water; and after
| they have been thoroughly washed,
he puts them into a heap, covered
with a damp mat, where they re-
main for several days; after which
he plants them in baskets, or ties
them on moss supported by a forked
stick, as above described.
Orcripeous House.—A hothouse
with contrivances for keeping the
interior moist. The roof is gener-
ally glazed with ground or green
glass, to transfer the light, as the
| Orchideous Epiphytes, in their na-
tive forests, always grow in the
shade.

the species of the genus Orchis are
natives of Europe, and a great num-
ber of them are found wild in Brit-
ain. With respect to culture, they
may be divided into two classes ;
those which grow naturally in peat
or heath-mould, such as O. macu-
| lata, O. mério, O. mascula, &e.;
and those which grow in dry chalky
soils, such as O. lephrosdnthos,
/ and O. ustuldta. In general little
/can be done in the way of propa-

Or’ iin eeediecen. anal

*

‘

ORDER.

306

OROBANCHE.

gating Orchises, excepting by seed ;
but they may be taken up in their
native localities when in flower, with
a ball of earth about three inches
square to each, and being planted
in suitable soil, in an open situation,
in the garden, they will live and
flower for several years. Seeds, if
collected when ripe, and sown im-
mediately, will come up freely ; and
if the soil and situation be suitable,
they will flower freely the second or
the third year. The same observa-
tions will apply to O\phrys, Her-
minium, A'ceras, Goodyéra, Pla-
tanthéra, Gymnadénia, and several
other genera formerly included in
the genus Orchis. Most of the
British Orchises grow well in pots,
and they may be forced as easily as
the common Hyacinth. The kinds
of Orchis which bear flowers re-
sembling insects, are now mostly
included in the genus O'rnrys.
Orver.—The necessity of order
is strongly evinced in a flower-gar-
den, as the plants in it lose half their
beauty unless they are placed ac-
cording to some regular plan or order
of arrangement; thus they may be
either in masses of one colour, or of
one kind; or they may be arranged
according to size, or according to
some botanical system, at pleasure.

But whatever mode of arrangement | Hope.

class, the flowers of which have
three styles, &c.

Ort'canum. — Labidte.— Marjo-
ram. O. vulgare, the common
Marjoram, is plentiful on chalky
soils in various parts of England ;
and it may be planted in patches
in gardens or shrubberies where
bees are kept, for the fragrance of
the flowers, and the delight which
the bees appear to have in them.
The Sweet Marjoram, O. major-
dna, a native of Portugal, is culti-
vated in England as a pot-herb ;
and for the Hep Marjoram, or Dit-
tany of Crete, O. Dictamnus.—See
DitTany.

Ornitno'caLum.—Asphodélee.—
The Star of Bethlehem. Bulbous
plants with white star-like flowers,
some of which are frequently kept
in the greenhouse, but all of which
may be grown in the open ground,
if the bulbs are planted in a tolera-
bly dry soil, four or six inches deep.
Some of the handsomest kinds are
O. pyramiddle, a native of Spain,
the unopened flower-stalks of which
are sold in the market at Bath, and
other places in the West of Eng-
land, for the table, under the name
of Prussian Asparagus; O. latifo-
lium, a native of Egypt; and O.
caudatum, from the Cape of Good
The latter two are generally

may be adopted, it will be found | considered greenhouse plants, but

that not only the interest excited by
he garden, but its beauty, will be
Seen increased by some regu-
order being followed through-

out.

In a botanical point of view the
word Order signifies a number of
genera, which coincide in several
important particulars. As for ex-
ample, according to the natural sys-
tem, the order Cruciferze includes
all the plants that have their flow-
ers like a Greek cross; and accord-
ing to the Linnean system, the
order Trigynia includes all the

|

|

they only require protection from
severe frosts.

Oroza'ncHE. — Orobanchee. —
Broom-rape. Parasitic British plants
growing on the roots of other plants,
which they destroy. They have
erect stems, somewhat scaly and
bulbous at the base, and terminating
in a spike of rather large purplish
or brownish flowers. They are
almost incapable of culture, as their
seeds will lie dormant in ‘the soil for
years, till they meet with a plant to
the roots of which they can attach
themselves; but if it should be wish-

plants belonging to any particular | ed to grow them, a few seeds of O

OTHONNA. *

307

PHONIA.

mdjor may be sown on the roots, Hope; which are generally grown
of any kind of broom or furze, and in loam and peat, and which only
of caryophylldcea on the roots of /require the usual culture of their
any kind of bramble or of Gallium | respective kinds.

molligo; and they will probably |

germinate.
fragrant, may in the same manner
be sown on the roots of wild thyme ;
and O. elaétior on those of Cen-
tauréa Scabiosa, the greater Knap-
weed.

O’rosus. — Leguminése. — The
Bitter Vetch. Pea-flowered peren-
nial plants, some of which are very
ornamental, natives of Europe and
North America, which should be
grown in peat and loam, and are
increased by dividing the root.

Ory'za. — Graminee. — Rice.
This plant is occasionally grown as
an object of curiosity in England,
though the climate is not hot
enough to ripen the grain. It isa
marsh plant, and requires to have its
roots constantly supplied with water.

Osace Orance.—See Macuu'ra.

Osse’cxta. — Melastomacee. —
Handsome stove plants, remarkable
for their showy flowers, and strongly
ribbed leaves. They should be
grown in peat, mixed with one-third
of sandy loam, and kept moist.
They are propagated by cuttings.

Osmu'Nnpa.— Filices—The flow-
ering Fern. This is by far the
handsomest of the Fern family. A
native of Britain, which produces a
fine effect in a shrubbery, or among
trees; and which should be grown
in peat, or other light soil, and kept
moist.

Osy‘r1s.— Osyridee.—The Poets’
Cassia. A pretty little shrub, with
white flowers, a native of the South
of Europe; which should be grown
in loam and peat, and which is pro-
pagated by cuttings.

Orno'nna.— Composite. — Rag-
wort. Coarse-growing greenhouse
or frame annuals, perennials, and
low shrubs, all with yellow fiowers,
and all natives of the Cape of Good

O. rii‘bra, which is very | rel.

O'xatis.—Oxalidee.—-Wood Sor

Mostly perennial and tuber-
ous-rooted plants from the Cape of
Good Hope; but some few of which
are natives of Britain, and others of
Mexico and other parts of America.
They have showy flowers, and are
easily cultivated in sandy peat kept
moist. All the Cape species require
protection during winter, and are
generally grown in pots

e:

Pzo'nra.—Ranunculdcee.—The

herbaceous species are well-known

showy flowers, which thrive in deep
sandy soil, and are propagated by
division; and the suffrutescent or

|shrubby kinds, of which there are

several varieties, thrive in similar
soil, and are propagated by laying
down the shoots, cutting behind
each bud, and covering them
throughout their whole length by
an inch or two of sand or sandy
soil. Each bud thus treated will
throw up a shoot and emit roots,
and after a year may be cut off so
as to form a distinct plant. The
tree Peony, as it is called, is quite
hardy in the climate of London ;

but as the flowers and leaves ¢
out early, they are liable to be ie

jured by spring frosts, and 1

therefore desirable to protect them

by a horizontal covering a foot or
two above the plant, which by re-
flecting back the heat radiated from
the soil keeps up such a tempera-
ture as prevents the plant from freez-
ing. There are many very hand-
some varieties of the tree Peony,
both double and single, but that
which is most esteemed is the P.
moutan papaverdcea, a single vari-
ety in which the petals are large

and white, with a dark purple mark
at the base. A few years ago this
variety sold at six guineas a plant,
but it may now be obtained from
3s. 6d. to 5s. Both the herbaceous
and shrubby Peonies seed freely ;

PARASITES. 308

|

®

PARASITES.

into other plants, and differ from
epiphytes in that circumstance, the
latter only growing upon the out-

side upon the branches of trees,

and as by fecundating the flowers |

of one species with those of the
others, new varieties may be easily
procured, raising seedling Peonies
forms a source of interest for ama-
teurs.

Paua'via.—Malvzceea.—An ele-

gant annual plant, generally raised |
on a hotbed, and planted out in May; |

but whieh

border in April.
Pauiu‘rus.-Rhamnacee.—Christ’s

Thorn. A curiously bent thorny

may be sown in the open |

shrub, with. very oddly-shaped flat
fruit, which has given rise to the’

French name for the plant of porie-
chapeau.
and it will grow in any common
garden soil.

Pancra‘rium.— Amarylliddcee.—
The Sea Daffodil. Splendid lily-
like bulbous-rooted plants, some of

It is a native of Asia, |

and deriving nourishment from the
decay of the outer bark, and the
moisture which it retains from its
porous corky nature. The only
ligneous parasite which is grown in
this country is the Mistletoe, which

is propagated by bruising the ber-

ries, and causing them to adhere to
the bark, (see Vi'scum,) and the
chief epiphytes are some of the
stove Orchidacee. The British
herbaceous parasites are Cuscuta
epithymum and C. europe‘a upon
Clover and Hops, and -Orobanche
major and Lathrea squamaria on
the roots of forest-trees. The hardy
epiphytes of Britain are the Lichens
and Mosses, which grow on the
bark of old trees, or stunted young
trees in most shady situations, and

| some species of Ferns, such as Po-

lypodium vulgare, which is often

found growing on the bark of old

which require a stove, and others |

the greenhouse. They should be
grown in light loam and vegetable
mould; and should be allowed a
season of rest, by being kept with-
out water when not in a growing
state.

Pansy.—See HEart’s-EASE.

Papa\vEr.—Papaverdcee. — The
Poppy. Showy annual and peren-
mal plants, which will grow in any

\ common garden soil; and which |
being quite hardy, only require the |

common treatment of their respec-
tive kinds.

Papy’rus.—Cyperdce@.—An in-
teresting marsh plant, which re-
quires a stove in England, and
which is worth growing from its
having been the only paper used by
the ancients. It should be planted
in loam at the bottom of a tub or
cistern.

Parasires are plants which root

pollards in the central districts of
Eneland, and in great abundance
on trees in the moist climates of
Devonshire, Lancashire, Cumber-
land, &c. It is very abundant on
the Oaks in the grounds of the Poet
Wordsworth, on the banks of the
lake of Ambleside. Almost the only
herbaceous parasite which can be
conveniently @ultivated in gardens
is the Cuscuta europea, the seeds of
which, when gathered on Heaths or
in Hop-grounds, may be sown at
the roots of almost any herbaceous
plant in gardens, when they will
spring up, twine round it, and per-
haps ultimately strangle it. Cus-
cuta verrucosa 1s sometimes grown
in greenhouses on Geraniums, und
is noted for the fragrance of its
blossoms.—(See Cu'scuta.) Oro-
banche major is very common in
clover fields in Norfolk, and greatly
injyres the crops of that valuable
forage plant. It also grows on the

a

r Pea PE IN ewe DS Skee os
——
r rs

PARTERRE.

309

PARTERRE.

roots of Broom and Furze.—See
OrosBa'NCHE.

Parason Acacra— Robinia um-
braculifera.

Partrerre.— The French term
for what in England is called a
flower-garden, but which in France

in former times, when the werd |

was originated, was most frequently
a figure formed on the surface of

the ground by turf, box, and gravel |

or sand, with occasional flowers or
low shrubs. In these parterres
flowers and shrubs were altogether
secondary objects, the main features
being the compartments of turf and
the curious seroll-work of box. The
French divided their parterres into
three kinds: parterres of embroide-
ry; which consisted chiefly of scroll-
work or arabesque figures of box
kept low by clipping; parterres de
compartiments, which consisted
chiefly of beds of turf of different
forms, varied by small shrubs. clip-
ped into regular shape; and par-
terres anglaises, which consisted of
turf in large masses, with beds of
flowers surrounded by box. Par-
terres of embroidery are now rarely
to be met with either in France or
England; they have been totally
destroyed at Versailles and Fon-
tainebleau ; and in England, though
we have old French gardens at
Levens near the Lakes of West-
moreland, at Roxtun near Banbury,
and other places, yet almost the
only parterres of embroidery of long
standing are at Wentworth Castle,
Yorkshire, and Holland House, in
Kensington, and the more recently
formed ones at Wrest in Bedford-
shire, and Trentham Hall in Staf-
fordshire. Parterres of compart-
ments among the French generally
consisted of one square, round, or
parallelogram plot of turf in the
centre, surrounded by a border of
narrow beds planted with flowers
and low shrubs, and these are at

England. Parterres anglaises may
now be considered as inciuded in
the parterres of compartments ; be.
cause the French do not now cut
up the ground into so many beds as
formerly, and plant a great many
more flowers than they did in the
time of Le Nétre. In all the French
parterres of former times, and also
in most of those imitated in Eng-
land, the groundwork, or, in other
words, the little walks on which the
arabesques of box appeared to be
planted, were of different coloured
sands, gravel, shells,, powdered
stones or brick, so as to exhibit dif-
ferent colours in the same parterre ;
but that practice is now left off both
on the Continent and in Britain.
In a word, parterres are now as-
semblages of flowers in beds or
groups, either on a ground of lawn
or gravel; in the former case the
beds are dug out of the lawn, and
in the latter they are separated
from the gravel by edgings of box
or stone, or of some plant, or dura-
ble material. The shape of the
beds in either case depends on the
style of architecture of the house to
which the parterre belongs, or to
the taste and fancy of the owner.
Whatever shapes are adopted, they
are generally combined into a sym-
metrical figure; for when this is
not the case the collection of beds
ceases to be a parterre, or a flower-
garden, and can only be designated
as a group or collection of groups
on a lawn. Hence it is that all
parterres and regular flower-gar-
dens ought to be separated from the
scenery by which they are surround-
ed by a line of demarcation, such
as a low architectural wall with a
balustrade and piers, and vases;
a low evergreen hedge, a canal, a
ridge of rockwork, a sunk fence
with the sides of turf or of stone, a
raised fence with the ridges and top
of turf, or a raised terrace-walk of

present common both in France and ) grass or gravel.

rd

*

‘y fa

Ceee eene &

Fig. 39.—Flower-Garden.

Fig. 39 will give an idea of a re-
gular fiower-garden; which may |
be made architectural by laying the |
walks with flag-stones, and placing
fountains and statues in the circles; |
and fig. 40 is a plan of the flower-
garden at Dropmore, certainly one
of the most beautiful in England.
Other designs may easily be made
on paper, and transferred to the.
ground, by dividing the space to be
laid out imto squares with chalked |
strings, and making corresponding |
squares over the plan. )

In planting parterres there are |

two different systems; one is to|

4

PARTERRE.

Fig. 40.—Dropmore Garden.

plant only one kind of flower ina
bed so as that each bed shall bea
mass of one colour, and the other
is to plant flowers of different
colours in the same bed. It is
almost needless to state that the
former system is by far the best
for general and striking effect ; but
as a parterre is frequently a kind
of botanic garden, and as in this
case it is desirable to keep all the
species of a genus together, flowers
of all colours must occasionally oc-
cur in the same bed. In general,
botanic parterres, should not be
mixed with parterres for effect, be-
cause the one kind never fails
greatly to injure the other. _

In planting parterres for general
effect, the colours should be arrang-

ed so that those which are adjoining

is

%

&

; PARTERRE. 311i

each other should be contrasts; and
those which occupy corresponding
parts of the same figure should be
the same. For example, suppose a
bed on one side of the centre to be
planted with yellow flowers, the
corresponding bed on the other side
(the figure being symmetrical) should
also be planted with the same kind
of yellow flowers, for the sake of
preserving the symmetry. Some-
times the corresponding bed of
colours may. be planted with a dif-
ferent species, haying flowers of the
same colour which appear at the

same time, but in general this-can- | other by a space an inch:

PASSERINA.

to consider what colours are to be -
placed adjoming it; and in choos-
ing the colour for plants to be pla-
ced in vases or pots, it is necessary
to consider the background against
which they are to be seen. For
example, an elevated vase with the
sky for a background should never
be planted with either blue or purple
flowers ; but orange or red flowers
in such a vase will have an admi-
cable effect. In botanic parterres,
only one plant of a species or varie-
ty is planted ; and that ought to be
kept perfectly distinct from every
two in

not be done successfully, partly on | width being left all round it; but
account of the different shades of | 1 m parterres for effect the whole
colour, but chiefly because. it iS) Suxtace of the bed ought to be
scarcely possible to get two plants | | covered with the same kind of
of different species, even though | flower, and no part of the soil should

they are of the same colour and | be seen.

Hence, for this kind of

flower at the same time, that will| parterre, low-growing plants, — and
prove so exactly alike as to have | trailers, or creepers, such as Nie-

the same aspect. The colours
which contrast with one another
are generally well known, parti-
cularly to ladies ; such as blue and

yellow, orange and purple, red and |

green, &c.; and in practice any two
colours which do not contrast well

_ naturally, may be brought together

or near each other by the interven-
tion of white, or of a very dark
colour approaching to black. Mig-
nionette forms a good substitute
for white, though there are many
white flowers ; and Lotus jacobe\us
forms the nearest approach to black.
As the prevailing colour in garden
scenery is green in all its different
shades and mixtures, so the pre-
vailing colour in parterres ought to
be red, and all its various shades
and mixtures. Next to red, yellow,
orange, and all their-various shades
and mixtures, ought to prevail, as
contrasting with the blue of the
sky, and with that of water, should
there be any near the flower-garden.
In choosing the colour for any par-

ticular flower-bed, it is necessary |

*

a ee a

| rembergias, and Verbenas, are most
desirable; and free-flowering tall
plants, such as Petunias and Dah-
lias, ought to be pegged down. One
of the most useful plants for pro-
ducing white in parterres of effect
is the common Petunia, and for red
the different kinds of scarlet Pelar-
gonium, or Verbéna Melindres.
The laying out and planting of

| parterres should always be attended

to by the ladies of the place, because
it requires a degree of taste and ar-
tistical feeling which is very seldom
to be found among some gardeners
to a sufficient extent; and which,
indeed, can hardly be expected in
many of them.

Pasque FLower.—See ANEMONE.

Passert'na.— Thymele\e.—Spar-
row-wort. Most of the species are
Cape shrubs, which require a green-
house in England, and should be
grown in sandy peat; but one spe-
cies, P. hirstita,is a native of the
South of Europe, with small yellow
flowers. They are all more curious
than beautiful.

__ Al

PATERSONIA. 3

12

PEGS.

PassirLo‘ra.—Passifl’ree—The
Passion Flower. The common Pas-
sion Flower, Passifiora ce@riiea, is
a very ornamental climber, which
will live in the open air in the cli-
mate of London, flowering abun-
dantly, and ripening fruit every year.
It rejuires a good and somewhat
loamy soil; and where the soil is
light and sandy, a pit two feet deep
and two feet square should be dug
out and filled with a mixture of
loam and peat. This pit may ap-
pear large for a plant with such
a slender root and stem as the Pas-
sion but it will not thrive
unless plenty of room be allowed
for its roots, and, on this account,
only the dwarf species can be grown
ina pot. ‘There are several kinds
of Passion Flower which require a
greenhouse, and some very splendid
ones that cannot be grown without
a stove. Of the latter, the most
beautiful is P. Loudéni, the flowers
of which are of a most brilliant
crimson. Nearly all the kinds ripen
seed freely, and the fruit, which is
a kind of berry, is eatable, but in-
sipid. All the kinds hybridize free-
ly, and thus many new kinds may
be raised. Some of these hybrids
are very beautiful, particularly those
raised from P. racemosa ; and some
of those raised between the stove
kinds and P. cerulea are nearly
hardy. ‘They are all easily propa-
gated by cuttings, which should be
made of the young shoots, and
struck in sand, in heat, under a bell-
glass.

PAssION FLOWER.—See PassIFLo‘ra.

Parerso'nra.-—Iride@.—-A fibrous-
rooted genus of very beautiful plants,
natives of New Holland. They
should be grown in sandy loam and
peat, and increased by dividing the
root or by seeds. They require a
little protection during winter, and,
on this account, they are generally
grown in pots, and kept in a frame
or greenhouse.

Pa‘via. — Hippocastandcee, ot
Ai sculécee—The American Horse-
chestnut, or Buckeye. ‘These plants
differ from the common Horse-chest-
nut in their fruit, which isin asmooth
husk, while that of the Horse-chest-
nut isin a rough husk. They de-
rive their American name of Buck-
eye from the large brown spot on
the side of the seed, the botanical
name of which isthehilum. Seve-
ral of the Pavias are shrubs, and
one of them, P. rubra, is almost
prostrate. ‘They are all very hand-
some, particularly the dark red and
yellow-flowered kinds, and P. mac-
rostachys, which has long feathery
white flowers. They will grow best
in loamy soil; and they are all prop-
agated either by seeds or layers, or
by grafting or budding them on the
common Horse-chestnut.

Peat Boe consists entirely of
vegetable matter decayed by being
saturated with moisture, but which
requires to be decomposed or mixed
with some earthy matter to render
it fit for vegetation. As it is the
tannin which abounds in the liquid
part of peat bog, which prevents
the decomposition of the vegetable
fibre it contains, it is only necessary
to drain it of its superabundant
moisture to convert it into peat
earth; in which state it is used in
gardening for the growth of large
American. plants, such as Rhodo-
dendrons, &c., in the open ground.
Heath-mould is peat mixed natural-
ly or artificially with a large pro-
portion of fine white sand; and, in
this state, it is used in greenhouses
for growing Heaths, and other Cape
and Australian shrubs with fine
hair-like roots, in pots. When green-
house shrubs are directed to be grown
in peat, it is always understood to

mean a mixture of peat and silver ae

sand, and not black peat alone. i
Prcs.—Pieces of forked stick

(see fig. 41) used for keeping down

plants that are wanted to cover a

eo

£
PENTSTEMON.

313

——

PENTSTEMON.

Fig. 41.—Hooked Stick for training prize
Gooseberry Bushes; length two feet.

bed in a regular flower-garden, and
for other similar purposes.

Pe.Larco'niuM.—See GeEra‘NIuM.

Pevuiirory, Common. — Pyre-
thrum Parthénium.

Pewuirory or Spain.—A/nthemis
Pyrcthrum.—See A'nTHEMIs.

Peo‘r1a.—A_ curious variety of
the common Toad-flax.—See Lina'-
RIA.

Pentste‘mon. — Scrophularinee.
—The two genera Cheldne and
Pentst?mon are so often confused
together, that it may be useful here
to copy the very clear distinctions
which Dr. Lindiey has laid down
between them, for the sake of such
of my readers as may be botanists.
“ Chelone has a ringent corolla, seat-
ed among round imbricated bractee ;
its anthers are fastened together by
a dense mass of wool, and its seeds
have amembranous margin. Pent-
stemon, on the contrary, has a bila-
biate corolla, with only a single
bractea, which is at a considerable
distance from it; its anthers are

distinct from each other, and either
ivericeity smooth, or at most only
slightly pubescent ; and its seeds are
destitute of a membranous margin.
The habit of the two genera is also
strikingly different.” To those who

27

wg

are not botanists it may be sufficient
to remark, that the flowers of the
Chelone are short and inflated, and
crowded together; while those of
the Pentstemon are long and funnel-
shaped, and far apart. The Pent-
stemons are generally hardy or half-
hardy plants, suffering less from
cold than from damp during winter ;
and as they all are very apt todamp
off at that season, it is a good plan
to take enttings of all the kinds
grown in the open ground in autumn,
and to strike them in sandy peat,
keeping them in a greenhouse or
some dry place till spring, whe they
may be planted in the flower-border.
All the Pentstemons are beautiful
North American perennials, grow-
ing from one foot to two feet in
height, with white, pink, blue, or
purple flowers, produced from March
to October. Most of them will grow
in common garden soil, and the rest
in loam and peat; and they are all
readily propagated by division of
the roots, or by seeds or cuttings.
P. campanuladius grows a foot and
a half high, and produces its light
purple flowers from March to Octo-
ber, and P. rdseus produces its red
flowers during the same period ; P.
pulchéllus grows a foot and a half
high, and produces light purple
flowers in June and July. P. spe-
cidsus grows two feet high, and pro-
duces its beautiful blue flowers in
August and September. P. Mur-
rayanus (the handsomest of the
genus) grows about two feet high,
and produces its brilliant scarlet
flowers in August, but is rather ten-
der. P. Cobe\a grows about a foot
and a half or two feet high, and
produces its large light purple or
pinkish flowers in August, and is
also rather tender. P. WScoulcri,
which grows three feet to four feet
high, and produces its purple flow-
ers from May to July, is saffrutes-
cent, and succeeds either in the open
border, or forms a beautiful object

PERENNIAL PLANTS.

against a conservative wall. On
the whole, all the species are beau-
tiful, and none of them are of diffi-
cult culture.

Pera‘po.—The name for a kind
of Holly, a native of Madeira, Mex |
Perdado; which is only half-hardy |
in England. It makes, however,
a beautiful tree, which will stand
without protection in the open air,
if it is grafted standard high, on a
tree of the Common Holly.

PERENNIAL Puants are those per-
manent plants which are not woody, |
but which generally die down to the
ground every year and spring up
again the year following. There are |
some, however, which are called |
evergreen perennials, which never
die down to the ground, such as
Pinks, Carnations, several kinds of
Saxifrage, &c. Perennials have the
great advantage over annuals and
biennials, that they do not require
renewal from seed, but are propa- |
gated by division of the root or divi- |
sion of the plant. Bulbous plants are
perennfals, and they are propagated |
by separating the offsets, which may
be considered as a kind of division of
the root. Tuberous-rooted plants are
propagated by separating the tubers ;
and when these tubers are furnished
with eyes like the potato, they may be |
cut into pieces, preserving an eye to
each; but when they are without |
eyes or buds excepting at their upper
extremity, as in the case of the
Dahlia and the Garden Ranunculus,
each tuber must be separated from
the parent plant entire with its bud.
‘he great majority of plants which
ornament the miscellaneous borders
of a flower-garden are herbaceous
perennials, including under this term
bulbs and tubers. All the hardy
bulbs in a flower-border, except those
ef the Hyacinth and the Tulip,
should be kept as dry as possible
during winter, as they are more
liable to be injured by wet than
cold ; and when thev are taken up:

314

to remove their offsets, &c., it should

PERENNIAL PLANTS.

be in autumn, when the leaves have
withered, and they should be plant-
ed again as soon as practicable, as
they are very apt to be injured by
damp, &c., if they remain long out
of the ground. ‘Tubers, on the
contrary, such as those of the Gar
den Ranunculus and the Dahha,
must be taken up every year as soon
as they have done flowering, and
only replanted just before the grow-
ing season commences, as, if left in
the ground, they are very apt to rot;
the bulbs of the Hyacinth and the
Tulip thrive best when treated in
the same manner. The fibrous-
rooted perennials should be taken
up and divided when they are
growing too large; and even when
division on this account is not neces-
sary, most of the kinds are benefited
by taking up and re-planting in fresh
situations occasionally, on the prin-
ciple of the rotation of crops. ‘This
is, that all plants throw out excre-
mentitious matter, which is poison-
ous to themselves, though whole-
some for other plants; and thus, in
the course of a few years, the ground
in which plants grow becomes unfit
for them. Nature has provided a
remedy for this by elongating the
roots of all perennial plants, whether
ligneous or herbaceous, every year:
and this is sufficient to prevent trees
and shrubs in permanent plantations
from being injured: but from the
constant digging, &c., in a garden,
perennial herbaceous plants are very
seldom permitted to extend their
roots to a sufficient distance to find
suitable soil ; and they are therefore
benefited by taking up and replant-
ing, or laying down decayed leaves
or fresh soil over their roots. The
season for taking up and replanti

perennial plants should be either is

autumn after they have done grow-
ing, or in spring before they begin
to grow; and if the soil about the
reots looks black and saturated with

sail

e

PERESKIA.

—

315

PETRAA.

zaoisture, or, as the gardeners ex-| P. aculedtus, the commonest kind,
press it, “‘ sour,” the roots should be | has white flowers; but the flowers

washed quite clean before replanting.
Where the roots are to be divided, it
may be done, if they are large, with
the spade, or if they are small, with
a knife; and, at all events, they

should be cut smooth, and trimmed |
(that is, all the bruised parts re- |

moved) with a sharp knife, before
replanting.—See PLanrine.

Pereuta‘r1a.—Asclepiddee.—P. |

odoratissima has, perhaps, a sweeter
fragrance than any other plant
known.
of no peculiar beauty, but they are

most valuable for their delightful |

fragrance, which is chiefly percep-
tible at night. The Pergularia is a
stove-climber which should be grown
in a large pot (a 12) with holes in
the sides, which should be plunged
into the centre pit of the stove and
kept moist. The soil should be
sandy loam or chopped turf mixed
with leaf mould; and it is propa-
gated by cuttings struck in sand
with bottom-heat, and covered with
a bell-glass. It should be cut back
every year when it has done flower-
ing ; and it will shoot out vigorously
in spring.
Peri'ptoca. — Asclepiddee.— P.
gre‘ca is a handsome hardy climber
with velvet-like flowers of a very
singular colour, being a dark
purplish maroon. It will grow in
any light rich soil, and it is very
suitable for covering arbours. It is
said to be fatal to flies, and that a
number of dead flies may be swept

The flowers are green and |

of P. Bleo are of a beautiful pink.
The fruit resembles a gooseberry,
and is very good to eat. The
Pereskias are quite hardy, growing
in the same temperature, and re-
quiring nearly the same treatment
as the Opuntia or Common Indian
Fig ; (see Opu/ntra ;) and P. acu-
ledtus is frequently used as a stock
for graiting on it the more tender
kinds of Cacti.
Periste‘r1a.—Orchidicee—The
Dove Flower. Beautiful Peruvian
epiphytes, which should be grown
on wood.—See Orcuripeous Ept-
PHYTES.

PERIWINKLE.—See Vi'nca.

Perne'ttya. — Ericdcea. — A
pretty little evergreen bush, a na-
tive of Terra del Fuego, with white
_heath-like flowers. It is quite

fae and only requires to be
/

grown in a bed of peat soil.
: Persica‘ria.—See Poty’Gonum.
Petrr2\s.— Verbendcee.—P. vo-
libilis isa climbing plant with long
_ and beautiful racemes of dark pur-
ple flowers, and large dark green
leaves. It is a native of Vera Cruz
and Martinique, where it ascends to
the summit of lofty trees, hanging
|from branch to branch in graceful
_festoons, and producing its flowers
vin great abundance. In England,
| though it has been introduced since
1733, it is rarely seen in flower for
want of proper management; but
| to make it flower freely, it only re-
| quires to be pruned like a common

up every day in bowers covered by | grape-vine, that is, to have the lead-

af.
Isles, and it is propagated by layers
or cuttings, both of which grow
freely. ©

_ Pere'skra.—-Cactacee.—-The Bar-
does or West India Gooseberry.

This plant bears very little resem-

It is a native of the Canary | ing shoots stopped at the second

|

joint to make them throw out side
shoots, and to have these stopped in
the same manner, in order to have
what the gardeners call spurs, dis-
tributed over all the branches ; for
it is on these spurs only that the

blance to the other kinds of Cacti, | flowers are produced. This plant
as it has thin leaves and a round | is called, in the Antilles, the Easter
stem, like any other ligneous plant. | Flower, because it flowers about

we

PETUNIA.

Easter; and it is used for decora- |
ting the Spanish churches at that |
season. In England it generally |
flowers in August. It should be
grown in chepped turfy loam mixed |
with a little peat to keep it open; |
and it is propagated by cuttings |
struck in heat.

Perry Wuin.—Genista danglica.

Petou'n1A.— Solandcee.— Perhaps
no plants have made a greater revo- |
lation in floriculture than the Petu-
nias. Only a few years ago they
were comparatively unknown, and |
now there is not a garden, or even
a window, that can boast of flowers |
at all, without one. P. nyctagini- |
flora, the common white Petunia,
was first brought from Brazil in |
1823; and as it was thought very |
nearly to resemble the common To-
bacco, it was called Petunia from
Petun, which is the Brazilian name
for that plant. This plant was cul-
tivated but sparingly, and only in
greenhouses as a perennial, till 1830,
when P. vicldcea, or P. phenicea,
as it is sometimes called, was in-
troduced from Buenos Ayres by
Mr. Tweedie; and from this spe-
cies, hybridized with P. nyctagini-
flora and P. bicolor, most of the
innumerable hybrids now in our
gardens have been produced. All
these kinds are found nearly hardy,
and they may either be treated as
half-hardy annuals, being raised on
a slight hotbed and planted out in
May, or they may be sown in the
open ground as soon as the seed is
ripe, or in March or April, or suffer-
ed to sow themselves; care being
taken in all cases in the open air
to choose a sheltered situation, and
to lay a few dead leaves over the
bed if the weather should be severe.
When treated as greenhouse plants
these Petunias all become shrubby,
but they will not live more than
two or three years, and they should
‘be cut down as soon as they have
done flowering. When they are

ee ee

316

PETUNIA.

wanted to grow to a large size, and
to cover a trellis, &c., like climbing
plants, they should be planted in

_the free ground, in the conservatory,

or in the open air, ina light rich soil,
or, if they are kept.in pots, allowed
plenty of room for their reots, as,
unless this is done, they will become
drawn up with long weak stems,
bare of both leaves and flowers, to
a considerable height. When they
are wanted to form strong bushy
plants for setting in a window or
keeping in boxes under a veranda,
the end may be attained by plant-
ing them first in very small pots
and shifting them into others, gradu-
ally becoming larger. and larger,
always pinching off the flowers, and
tips of the shoots, till the plants
have attained the desired form and
size, when they may be allowed to
flower, and will form splendid ob-
jects. When Petunias are wanted
to cover a bed in a regular flower-
garden, they are not cut in at all;
but their long rambling shoots being
pegged down all over the bed, a
number of side-shoots will be sent
up, which will soon become covered
with a mass of flowers. The hy-
brid, P. spléndens, treated in this
manner in Lady Granville’s flower-
garden at Dropmore, is, when the
sun shines upon it, almost too bril-
liant to be looked at. P. intermé-
dia, sometimes called Salpigléssis
linearis, is a dwarf shrub, a native
of Panama, introduced in 1832,
which requires to be kept in‘a green-
house in England.

A great confusion has arisen
about the name of the purple-flow-
ered Petunia, as, when it was first
raised at Glasgow from the seeds
sent home by Mr. Tweedie, it

wa
supposed by Sir W. J. Hooker a

be a Salpiglossis ; and it was figured
and described by him under the
name of Salpigtossis integrifolia
in the Botanical Magazine, t. 3113
It was afterwards figured and de-

fad

4

PHFACELIA.

scribed by Professor Don, in Sweet’s

British Flower Garden, second se- |
ries, t. 172, under the name of Nie- |

rembérgia phenicia; and lastly,
by Dr. Lindley in the Botanical Re-
gister, t. 1626, as Petunia violdcea.
It is very remarkable that there
should have been so many doubts
among botanists as to the genus of
the purple Petunia, as it appears -to

317

| even as far south as the Straits of

common observers to differ from the

white only in colour ; and it is also
remarkable that it should have been
first called pheenicea, which signi-
fies crimson, when it is decidedly |
of a violet-coloured purple. The
flowers of the white Petunia, and |
of all the hybrids raised from it, are
iragrant, particularly at night ;

PHALENOPSIS.

Magellan. Some of the species are
perennials, and others biennial or
annual. The Californian species
are annuals with blue flowers, but
the South American kinds are b:en-

|nials or perennials witk pink flow-

ers. They all grow fzsely in any
common garden soil.
Puat'us.—Orchiddcee. — P. al-
bus, which is an exccedingly beau-
tiful East Indian epiphyte, is re-
markable fer the dry and withered
appearance which if presents when
it enters into its dormant state.

_At this period it sheds its leaves,

and its stems become covered with
a dry brownish skia, which makes

- them look exactly as if they were

while the few hybrids raised be-
tween P. violdcea, and P. bicolor,
and the numerous seedlings of the |

former species, have no fragrance.
P. bicolor does not hybridize so

freely as the other kinds, and it is,

more tender;

mouthed and streaked kinds are.

raised partly from it, and they are

but all the dark- |

generally hybrids between it and)
the white Petunia; the latter kind |

producing the seed, as P. bicolor
rarely ripens seeds. No plants are

more easily trained than the Petu- |

nias; and with a little care and at-

tention, they may be made to cover |

trellis-work or wire-frames of vari-
ous different forms.
Peyro'usta.—IJridee.— A genus
of bulbous-rooted plants with rather
small flowers, generally in corymbs,
which require the usual treatment
of Cape bulbs.—See I’x1a.
Puace'tua. — Hydrophy'llee. —
Very curious plants, which produce

dead. It should then be removed
to a cool situation, where the heat
is not greater than 40° or 45° of
Fahrenheit, and kept with only
enough water to prevent it from
dying. In the course of a few
weeks, a young shoot will begin to
push out from the crown of the
root; and as soon as this is per-
ceived, the plant should be repot-
ted in sandy peat, (the pot being
first nearly half filled with pot-
sherds,) and removed to the orchi-
deous house, where it should be ex-
posed to a strong heat and syringed
twice a day with a copious supply
of water to the roots till the ap-
pearance of the flowers, when it
should be removed to a cooler at-
mosphere, say that of a drawing-
room, and be no longer syringed.
PuaLano’psis. — Orchiddcee. —
The white Butterfly Plant. This
beautiful plant, which certainly re-
sembles a white butterfly as much

their flowers in one-sided fascicles | as O. papilio does a tortoise-shell

which unrol

themselves slowly. | | one, should be grown on a piece of

The flowers are rather pretty in| wood with the bark on, hung from

we

leaves.

emselves, but are half hidden by) the roof of the hothouse, the roots
eir bracts and coarse-growing being wrapped in moss and tied on
All the species are natives | the branch.

It flowers profusely,

of America, but some are found in| but it is very difficult to propagate.
California, some in Peru, and some | —See OrcuipEous Epipuy'rss.

~y

27

*

-

PHILLYREA. 318

Prarsiris. — Convolvulicee. — |
The new name given by M. Choisy
to Convélvulus major and some few
other species. The difference be-
tween this new genus and the ge-
nus Convolvulus, consists in the
shape of the stigma, and in the
number of cells in the capsule.

Puase‘otus. — Leguminése. — |
The Scarlet-runner, P. multifiorus,
was cultivated at its first introduc-
tion as a garden flower; and it is
still often grown for ornament in
small street gardens, by sowing the
seeds in the ground, and training
the plants up pieces of pack-thread, |
fastened to a hook or nail in a wali |
at one end, and to a peg stuck in
the ground at the other. There is
2 variety with red and white flowers
which is very ornamental.

Puape'Lprus. — Philadélphee. |
—The Syringa, or Mock Orange. |
North American hardy shrubs,
common in shrubberies, the flowers
of which smell lke those of the
Orange, and the leaves taste like
Cucumbers. It is rather remark- |
able that one of the English names
of these plants is Syringa; which |
is the botanic name of the Lilach,
to which they have not the slight-
est affinity. There are many spe- |
cies; some of which have very
large and handsome flowers, and |
some bear flowers without any
fragrance. They are all quite har-
dy, and will grow in any soil or)
situation ; and they may all be pro-
pagated by seeds, layers, cuttings,
or division of the root.

Puittyre'a. — Oleinee. — Ever- |
green bushy shrubs, natives of Eu-
rope and some parts of Asia, which |
are very useful in British gardens, |
from their shining dark-green leaves,
and small fragrant white flowers.
They are often confounded with the
Alaternus, from which, however,
they are botanically quite distinct,
as that shrub belongs to Rhamna- |
sex. The Phillyrea is ‘generally |

in height.
light-blue flowers from April to June

'as the former species.

we

ee eeeeeeSeSeSsSS—

PHLOX.

found in the shrubberies of oid

| mansions, as from the time of Ge-

rard, till Evelyn so warmly patro-
nised the Holly, the Phillyrea and
the Alaternus were the principal

| evergreens planted in British gar-

dens ; and both were great favour-
ites for topiary work, as no plants
are clipped more easily into figures
of animals, &e. All the kinds are

|quite hardy, and will grow in any

soil cr situation; and they may be
all propagated by seeds, layers, or
cuttings.

Puto’mis. — Labidte.— The Je-
rusalem Sage. Perennial and shrub-
| by plants with large coarse. -growing
glaucous leaves, greatly resembling

‘those of the common Sage, and.

yellow or purple flowers disposed in
a whorl round the joints. All the
'species will grow in any light rich
| soil ; and they are propagated by

layers or cuttings, or by dividing

the root.

Putox. — Polemoniicee. — A
genus of beautiful North American
serennials and one annual, of which
there are some species in flower
alinost every month in the year.
They thrive best in sandy loam

and peat, but many of the species

will grow in any common soil.
Phlox setdécea 1s a low trailmg
perennial, which produces its flesh-
coloured flowers in April and May.
P. nivalis is of equally low growth,
and it produces its white flowers at
the same period. P. subduldta sel-
dom exceeds three inches in Jength,
and it produces its beautiful flesh-
coloured flowers from April to June.
P. canadénsis has blue flowers,
which are produced in April and
May, and it grows almost one foot
P. divaricita produces

and grows about the same heign
P. ovita
and P. ovata Listoniana grow about
one foot high, and produce purple
flowers from May to August; an¢é

PHGENIX.

P. pildsa grows about one foot in
height, and produces its pink flow-
ers in May and June. There are
about a dozen other species equally
low in growth and prolific in flow-
ers in spring or in the beginning of
summer; and there are a number
of species which grow from two to
four feet in height, and flower in
July, August, and September. Of
these may be mentioned P. panicu-
lata alba, and paniculata ribra: P.
acuminata, which grows four feet
high, and produces pink flowers
from May to August. P. pyrami-
dalis and its several varieties, P.
latifolia and P. maculata, grow
four feet high, and produce pink or
red flowers from July to September;
and P. multiflorus, which has a

a foot and a half high, flowers near-

319

PHYSALIS.

fera, the Date Palm, is a well-
known stove plant, which should
be grown in asandy loam. Young
plants may be raised from the stones
of the dates sold in the shops, and
if kept in sufficient heat they will
grow freely; though the trees must
be of considerable age and size be-
fore they bear fruit.

Puo/rmium. — Asphodélee. — P.
iénax, the New Zealand flax, is a
very singular plant, with large
bunches of orange flowers, and
very long, broad, lily-like leaves,
the fibres of which are so strong
that they are used in New Zealand
for making baskets, and various
other articles in their coarse state,
and in the same manner as flax for
making sails, &c. In England the
plant is at present rare, but it may
be grown in a greenhouse in a very

long spike of white flowers nos

ly all the summer. The only an-|rich sandy loam frequently water-
nual species is P. Drummondii and|ed; the principal objection to its
its varieties, which are plants of| culture being the great size of its
surpassing beauty raised annually |leaves, which occupy too much
from seeds or cuttings in light sandy | space for it to be grown in a small
soil, and admirably adapted for | house.

x

covering flower-beds or growing in |
pots. When raised from seeds, this |
species should be treated like a
tender annual; and after being
raised in a hotbed in February or
March, it should be turned out into
the open garden about the middle

Puoti'nia. — Rosécee. — A very
beautiful evergreen shrub or low
tree, formerly called Crate\gus
glabra, which is nearly hardy, but
thrives best when trained against
a wall ina sheliered situation. The
soil should be sandy loam; and the

of May; or it may be sown in;plants are propagated sometimes
April or May in the open ground. | by cuttings ef the ripened wood, but
In fine seasons it ripens seeds; but | more frequently by grafting or
where it does not, it may be pre-|inarching on some of the hardy

served through the winter by strik-
ing cuttings in autumn, and preserv-
ing them in pots placed on the front
shelf of a greenhouse or in a frame.
The varieties vary from purple to
light rose, and generally come true
from seed. On the whole, the genus
Phlox is one of the most beautiful
__ of herbaceous plants, and a garden
ought to be no more without some
of the species than it ought to be
without Roses or bulbs.
Puenix.—Paimee.—P. dactyli-

®

kinds of Crategus.

Puy'tica.— Rhamnacee.— Pretty
little heath-like plants, natives of
the Cape of Good Hope, with nar-
row leaves, and little terminal heads
of fragrant white flowers, which
begin to appear in autumn and
continue during winter and early
spring. ‘They are generally grown
in a greenhouse, and require the
same treatment as the Cape Heaths.

Puysa‘Lis. — Solandcee. — The
Winter Cherry. Dwarf shrubby

a

PHYTOLACCA.

and herbaceous plants, with showy
flowers. The fruit is a bright red
berry in a bladdery calyx; and
when the calyx has been macera-
ted by soaking it in water, it has a
very pretty effect. Some of the
species are shrubby, but the greater

part are herbaceous plants; they |

are generally only half-hardy, and
they succeed best when grown in
sandy loam.

Paysia'nruus. — Asclepiddz@. —-
A climbing plant from Mexico,
which has proved hardy in the
London Horticultural Society’s gar-
dens. It has small whitish flow-
ers, and very large and handsome
fleshy seed-vessels, which look like
oval gourds, and which, whea
opened, are found to coatain the
seeds enveloped in a quantity of
fine silky substance, which looks like
the cocoons of silkworms, after the
fine silk has been spun off. The
Physianthus will grow in any com-
mon soil; but it should always be
trained against a wall, as otherwise
the large fruit will be too heavy for
the slender branches. There are
two species.

Puysoste'aia. — Labizie. — P.
imbricata is a beautiful plant, with
pale purple flowers, nearly allied
to Dracocéphalum, which only re-
quires the usual treatment of hardy
perennials. P. truncata is an an-

nual species with pale pink flowers. |

Both are natives of Mexico, and
will grow in the open ground, in
any common garden soil.
Puyreu'ma. — Campanulacee. —
Herbaceous plants, generally with
dark-blue flowers, which will grow
in any ordinary soil, and which are
increased by dividing the roots.
Puytoxa’cca. — Chenopodiaceae,
or Phytolacee—P. decindra, the
Virginian Poke, is a fine vigorous.
growing plant, which is ornamen-
tal from the abundance of its black
berries, but which, from its large
leaves and spreading habit of

329,

PIPINGS.

_growth, requires a great deal of
_room. It should be grown in very
| rich soil, and it is increased by seeds
,or cuttings. There are several
species, all of which have black
berries, containing a deep red juice,
which is said to be used in Portugal
to colour Port wine.
| Picoree—A kind of Carnation
| with a narrow, dark-coloured mar-
gin to the petals, or with the petals
_covered with small brown or dark
purple dots. For the culture, see
Dia'nraus.
Pitewort.—See Fica‘ria.
Pime'Lea.— Thymeldacee.— Aus-

tralian shrubs which require a richer
soil than most other plants from
that country. They should be
grown in a greenhouse in England ;
/in a soil composed of sandy peat
_and loam, mixed vegetable mould,
|or part of an old hotbed. They
should have plenty of light, and
| they should be kept regularly wa-
tered. They are propagated by
cuttings.

PimpERNEL.—See AnaGa'LLis.

Ping.—See Dta’nruus.

Pirincs—Cuttings of Pinks and
Carnations are calied pipings: be-
cause these plants have tubuler
| stems; and when separated at «#
| joint, the parts are pulled asunder.
instead of being cut. This is done
|in autumn, by taking a shoot that
has nearly done growing, in one
| hand, and pulling the upper part cf
it off just above a pair of leaves, so
| as to separate it at the socket form-
ed by the axils of the leaves, leav-
ing the part pulled off with a tubu-
lar or pipe-like termination. Some
florists then cut off the tips of the
leaves, but others leave them entire,

as shown in fig. 42, and in both

| cases the pipings must be struck in
/sand with a hand-glass fixed firmly
‘over them. It maybe here obsery-
|ed, that the herbage of Pinks and
Carnations is called the grass; and
ithat when a plant is in a vigorous

+

=
i PITS.
state of growth, it is said to have
the grass fine.

Fig. 42.—Piping of a Carnation.

Piera’ntHus. — Legumindse. —
A handsome haif-hardy tree with
large yellow pea-flowers. It will
grow in any common soil, but it
requires a slight protection during
winter.

Pisra‘cra.—- Terebiathicee—-The
Pistaccia Nut-tree. Very hand-
some trees, which abound in tur-
pentine in their native country, but
which are only half-hardy in Eng-
land.

Pits are structures either sunk
in the ground, or raised above it
with brick walls on all sides, and
with a glass cover. For the pur-
pose of preserving plants from the
frost, they do not require flues, beds
of tan or dung, or any other artificial
mode of heating; but they do re-
quire artificial heat when they are
employed for preserving greenhouse
plants, for growing hothouse plants,
or for forcing hardy herbaceous
flowers or shrubs into premature
bloom. ‘They are also used as a
substitute for hotbeds in bringing
forward tender annuals, and in rais-
ing seeds. For all these purposes

wy

321

PITS

some mode of artificial heating is
required; and this may either be
accomplished by smoke flues, the
circulation of hot water in pipes of
iron or earthenware, or by the in-
troduction of beds of fermenting
materials, such as tan or dung
The most convenient mode of heat-
ing is unquestionably by hot water,
because by this mode there is less
danger of producing excessive heat;
and the heat, from being accompa-
nied by moisture, is more congenial
to vegetation than the dry heat of
smoke-flues. Where hot-water pipes
cannot be conveniently procured,
or in the given locality are more
expensive than smoke-flues, then
these may be adopted ; taking care
to supply moisture to the atmosphere
of the pit by placing pans of water
on the flues; or by keeping the sur-
face of the soil, or the path, if there
be one, moist by the supply of water
from time to time. The construc-
tion and the heating of pits are so
well known to gardeners, builders,
and ironmongers, that very little
need be said on the subject. They
may be of any convenient length—
six feet, eight feet, or ten feet in
width, three feet high above the
surface of the ground behind, and
of such a height in front as that
the slope of the glass may form an
angle with the horizon of between
20° and 30°. The depth to which
the pit is ‘sunk in the soil will de-
pend on the uses to which it is to
be applied. When it is merely to
preserve plants from the frost of
winter, it need not be sunk into
the soil at all; but when it is to
contain a bark-bed, the depth of
that bed, which may be between
two feet and three feet, should be
excavated from the soil. When
the pit is to be entered by the gar-
dener, in order that he may walk
upright, there should be a path um-
mediately under the back wall, and
this will require the pit to be at

and in all other cases, suflicient
drainage must be provided ; and if
the walls and floor are built and
laid hollow, the entrance of moist-
ure and the escape of heat will be
prevented. In general, pits which
are heated by tan or dung have the
material placed in the beds inside :
but in some cases it is placed
around the pit, in what are called
linings between two feet and three
feet inside, and as high as the walls
of the pit outside, so that the heat
penetrates through the wall to the
dung or soil within ; and to facili-
tate this, the lower parts of the walls
are built with open brickwork. Pits
of this kind are called Macphail’s
pits, and are admirably adapted for
growing hothouse plants, and for
every description of forcing.

Prrear’rntaA. — Bromelidcee. —
Handsome herbaceous stove plants,
with pineapple-like leaves, and very
singular scarlet or pinkish flowers.
They should all be grown in sandy
peat and rich loam.

Pircner Piantr.—See Nepe'n-
THES and SARRACE'NIA.

Prirro'sporum. — Pittosporee. —
Handsome evergreen bushy shrubs,
which require a slight protection
during winter. P. Tobira is a na-
tive of China, which has been
known to live out of doors for se-
veral years in a sheltered situation,
but which should be protected from
very severe frosts. It should be
grown in a rich light soil; and it
is propagated by cuttings, which
should be struck in sand under a
hand-glass. Most of the species
have terminal tufts of white fragrant
flowers, and broadish, shining, dark
green leaves; and they are all very
ornamental.

Pxiantain Tree.—See Mo'sa.

Priantr Cases—See Grass Cases.

Puantine is the operation of in-
serting plants in the suil, either in
the free ground or in pots. The

*
ae ike &
Oe
+ 7 4
% nee i mere
PLANTING. 322 PLANTING. «
least seven feet in depth. In this, | simplest ee of planting is that

which consists in removing small
seedling plants, or such as have
been struck from cuttings or layers;
and this is commonly performed by
making a round hole with a dibber,
and putting in the root of the plant
to the same depth as it had been
covered with earth ‘before, and
making it fast by thrusting the dib-
ber into the firm earth beside the
hole, and pressing it to the root.
In this operation the great art is to
make the root fast at its lower ex-
tremity. Thus, m planting com-
mon seedlings of annuals, or even
cabbage-plants, if the earth be
pressed close to the root at the up-
per part, and not at the extreme
points, the success will hardly be
complete; and in tender plants, or
in a dry season, a failure will be the
result. In planting plants of a
larger size, a small pit should be
opened by the spade or the trowel ;
the bottom of the pit having been
formed into a cone or small hill, the
plant should be placed in the centre,
and the roots spread out equally
over it on every side. ‘The roots
are then to be covered with soil
gently pressed over them ; and the
operation must be finished by wa-
tering so as to consolidate the soil
equally, without making it firmer
on one part of the roots than another.
If the soil should have been pre-
viously dug, trenched, or loosened
to the depth of a foot, or probably
two feet or three feet, the pit should
not be made so deep as to throw
the neck or collar of the plant be-
low, or even on a level with the
surface, when the soil is consolidat-
ed by watering. On the contrary,
it must be left of such a height
above it, as that when the soil is
finally consolidated by its own —
gravity, influenced by the weather,
the neck shall still be above the
general surface of the ground, and
the plant stand on a small hillock

“3
wn

bal

=".

oe

PLANTING.

323

PLANTING.

This condition of planting cannot | soil about tke roots, and fixes them

be too carefully attended to; for
nothing can be more injurious to
transplanted plants than having the
neck buried more than it was in a
natural state. Nothing is more
common than too deep planting;
and the temptation to it is the
greater because deep-planted plants,
from having the roots more accessi-
ble to moisture, are more certain of
growing the first year, and are less
in want of mulching to exclude the
heat and drought, and of staking to
prevent them from being moved by
the wind. Hence, in planting trees
or shrubs, it is of the greatest im-
portance, not only with a view to
their future growth, but also to
their natural appearance above the
surface, to have them planted on
little hillocks, greater or less in
height according as the soil may
have been moved to a greater or
less depth, either in the operation
of digging the pit in firm soil, or in
planting in soil which has been
moved by digging or trenching, or
otherwise. In small gardens it is
generally desirable, for the sake of
producing immediate effect, to plant
plants of considerable size ; and in
this case, in addition to the pre-
cautions which have been already
mentioned, it is desirable to plant
by what is called fixig with water.
This operation is performed in the
following manner: the hole being
properly prepared, the plant placed

in it, and the roots spread out on)

every side and extended as far as
they will go, one person holds the
plant upright, a second sprinkles
earth over the roots, and a third
supplies water from a watering-pot
with a rose on if the plant be small,
and without a rose if it be a tree
of six feet or eight feet in height,
holding the pot as high above his
head as his arms will reach. The
weight of the water coming down
from such a height consolidates the

in such a manner, as to render the
plant, if it has been carefully taken
up, almost in the same state as it
was in before removing. Large
trees or shrubs, if planted in this
manner in the autumn, and staked,
where there is danger from high
winds, will grow, and even flower
and fruit, the following year, as well
as if they had not been removed.
In this kind of planting with large
plants, the hillock, left after the
operation is finished, should not be
less than a foot or eighteen inches
above the surrounding surface ; and
to lessen evaporation during the
ensuing summer, the hillock should,
if possible, be covered with short
litter, moss, turf turned upside down,
or even small stones, for the first
year. In staking large plants of
this kind, the stakes should be
placed close to the stem of the
plant, in which position they are
much less likely to injure the fibrous
roots than when placed at a dis-
tance from the tree ; and the stakes
should be made fast to the stem of
the plant by a piece of straw or
hay-rope, or by a piece of twisted
ma‘ting, or any kind of cord; the
pat: of the stem to which the stake
is ted having previously had a
small handful of straw, or moss, or
mat, bound round it to prevent the
tie from galling the bark of the
stem, and preventing its increase
during summer. ‘These stakes
should remain for a year, or some-
times two years, according to the
size of the plant and its facility of
making roots. In general, the sooner
the stakes are taken away the bet-
ter; because the motion of the stem
by the wind is essential to its in-
creasing in thickness. In this mat-
ter much must be left to the discre-
tion of the planter, who must always
bear in mind that a staked plant is
in a most unnatural position; and
also, that if the tree should lean

&

PLANTING.

324

somewhat to one side for some years
after planting, it will ultimately be-
come more or less erect ; and that
a strong, vigorous-looking plant
leaning a little to one side, affords
a greater evidence of its being se-
cure and in sound health, than a
straight erect plant kept in that po-
sition by a stake. In the case of
planting trees with stems three or
four inches in diameter in exposed
situations, two or three stakes may
be used, placed at a short distance
from the base of the stem and lean-
ing towards it; and where they are
made fast, they should be joined by
matting, hay-ropes, or some other
soft material, so as not to injure or
confine the bark. Before transplant. |
ing trees of a timber size, the main |
roots are frequently cut at the dis- |
tance of five feet or six feet from
the stem a year previously to trans-
planting ; in consequence of which,
they send out fibres which in the
course of the summer become small
roots, so that when transplanted,
the tree, instead of drawing its prin-
cipal nourishment from spongicles
at the distance of twenty fect or
perhaps thirty feet from the stem,
is enabled to draw it from the dis-
tance of six cr eight feet, and thus
to continue growing, though rot |
with the same degree of vigour as |
if it had not been transplanted. |
Some kinds of trees, when of a/|
large size, such as the Sycamore, |
the Lime, the Horse-chestnut, and |
a few others, may be transplanted |
without this precaution ; but in this |
case, the operation must be per-
formed in autumn as soon as the
leaves have dropped, in order to give |
the roots time to form some fibres
during the winter; and the greater
the distance from the stem at which
the roots are cut, the greater will
pe the success. Large trees with
wide-spreading roots, when trans-

|

PLA :

=

base, which prevents the stem from
being blown to one side. Where
there is danger anticipated from
high winds, the tree may be secured
by three guy-ropes tied to the upper
part of the stem, and made fast to
stakes driven into the ground at
such a distance from the tree as
that the ropes may form an angle
with the ground of 45°; or the
stronger roots may be kept in their
position by stakes driven into the
ground with their heads beneath
the surface of the soil, the main
roots being made fast to them by
cords.

In all cases of transplanting de-
ciduous trees, with the exception
of the Beech and Hornbeam, some
pruning should be given to the top,
so as to lessen the number of
branches and leaves which are to
be supplied by the root. ‘The quan-
tity of branches that are required
to be removed will depend partly
on the kind of tree, and partly on
the intention of the planter, but
mainly on the climate and _ soil.
Beech trees, as already mentioned,
are injured when transplanted by
having many branches removed,
and often die im consequence. Sy-
camores and all the Acer tribe,
having numerous fibres near the
main stem, require but little prun-
ing of the head. The same may
be said of the Yew and the Holly,
the Lime and the Elm. When the
object of the planter is to produce
immediate effect by a bulky head,
all the branches may be left on,
whatever may be the kind of tree ;
but in that case the tree will pro-
duce only leaves for a number of
years, or if it produce shoots they
will not exceed a few lines in length.
Ultimately, if the soil be poor and
dry, the tree will probably perish ;
but if the soil should be good and
moist, and the climate also moist,

planted, seldom require to be staked, | the tree will, in time, become vig-
because the roots form a broad | orous, and produce shoots. Where

fie inc. es

the climate is moist, and the soil
good, and also moist, any tree may
be transplanted without pruning the
branches ; because the fibres it will
produce in such a soil and climate
will be sufficient to supply the
moisture transpired by the leaves.
But where the climate is dry and
the soil also dry, no large tralia
be safely transplanted with its
branches; because the transpira-
tion by the leaves will be much
greater than the moisture which
can possibly be absorbed by the
roots. Hence in the dry climate
of the Continent, all trees with
stems above an inch or two in di-
ameter have their branches entirely
cut off, always excepting the Beech
and Hornbeam, the Yew, and all
the Pine, and Fir, and Cypress tribes.
Even in this cvuntry, in Evelyn’s
time, this was the practice ; and the
late Sir Joseph Banks, when he
planted groups of trees with stems
five inches or six inches in diameter
on a portion of Hounslow Heath,
which was allotted to his residence
there, planted only stumps ten feet
or twelve feet high, which stumps
are now finely-headed trees, con-
spicuous from the road in passing
Spring Grove. Much has of late
heen written on the subject of trans-
planting large trees, by Sir Henry
Steuart and others; and the prac-
tice has been recommended of leav-
ing on the whole of the head. Ex-
perience, however, has proved that
this can only be done with advan-
tage under certain circumstances.
Planting 1n pots, when the plants
are of the very smallest size, may
be effected by a small dibber, as in
planting in the common soil; but
it is more frequently done on the
principle of planting in pits ; that is,
the pot being properly drained by a
few potsherds being placed over the
hele in the bottom of the pot, and
an inch or two of soil placed over
them according to the size of the
28

9) PLANTING.

pot, the young seedling or newly-
struck cutting is held with one
hand, and soil sprinkled over the
roots, by a trowel, with the ether
When the pot is filled, the soil is
consolidated by liftuig the pot, with
both hands, a few inches high, and
setting down once or twice witha
sight jar; aiterwards, supplying
water so as to moisten the whcle
of the soil in the pot. The thumb,
or a potting-stick, should previously
be passed round the inner edge of
the pot, so as to firm the sou reund
the rim; otherwise the water is
liable to run down round the edge
ef the pot, without moistening the
soil in the middle. Immediately
after planting, the pot should be set
in a position where it can be shaded
during sunshine ; but on no account
should tender plants be shaded dur-
ing cloudy weather, or covered with
an opake covering during night,
unless for the purpose of protecting
them from cold. Of course the af-
ter-treatment of every plant in a
pot must depend on its nature ; all
that it is necessary at present to treat
of is the manner of planting.
Transplanting plants which have
already been grown in pots is either
effected by removing the ball
mass of earth containing the roots
entire, or by gently breaking the
ball in pieces, and stretching the
roots out on every side. When the
ball is not broken, the operation is
called shifting. Plants are often
reared in pots on account of their
tender nature when young, or for
the convenience of transporting
them to a distance, though they are
intended ultimately to be planted
in the open ground. In almost all
cases of this kind, the ball should
be broken, and the pit having been
prepared with the greatest care,
as in common planting, the fibrous
roots should be stretched out in it
as far as they will go on every side.
Hence, a piant which has been

ty,

PLANTING.

grown in a very small pot, when it |

is to be transplanted into the open
garden, may often require a_ pit
three feet or four feet in diameter.
There is not perhaps an operation |
in the whole circle of gardening that |
affords a higher gratification to the
planter, than transplanting plants

from pots when the pits and soil are
properly prepared, and the roots;
carefully stretched out without being |
bruised or broken. In consequence |
of the extraordinary sources of nu- |
triment which are thus afforded to |
the plant, and of the greatly in-
creased power given to the roots,
the shoots which it makes the first |
year are extraordinary, and evince |
a degree of vigour which none but |
a gardener of experience could be- |
lieve possible. On the other hand,
when a plant in a pot is turned out
into a pit, however well the soil
may be prepared, if the roots are
not stretched out, it may remain |
for many years without growing |
much faster than it previously did |
in the pot. This is often the case |
with the more rare species of the |
Pine and Fir tribe, and with Mag- |
nolias and other plants kept in|
pots by nurserymen; and it is|
ae attended by this evil, that
the plants are easily blown to one |
side by the wind. In the case of |
surface-rooted plants, such as Pines, |
if they have been some years in the
pot, they never send out roots suffi-
cient to keep them upright; and
hence the Pinaster and Stone Pine,
which are almost always kept in
pots in British nurseries, are gener-
ally found leaning to one side in
plantations in this country. It is
necessary, however, to make the
distinction between plants newly
planted in pots, and those which
have been in pots for two or three
years ; for the former may perhaps |
have few roots which have reached |
the sides of the pot, as in the case of |
China Roses struck and potted early

326 ae i. ses =

in the season, and planted out the
same summer, and which, of course,
may be planted out without break-
ing the ball. The same observa-
tien will apply to all other plants
in pots that have not their fibrous
roots somewhat woody; and also to
all hair-rooted plants, such as
Heaths, Rhododendrons, Azaleas,
Arbutus, and in general to all the
Ericacee, which having at no age
large woody roots, may always be
transplanted from pots with the
balls entire.

It may here be observed, that
large shrubs of almost all the Eri-
cacee may be transplanted at al-
most any age with less danger than
most other plants, as, from the
slender and fibrous nature of the

‘great mass of their roots, they are

less liable to injury than woody-
rooted plants. All that is required

is that they should be taken up with

a large ball of earth, and that when
replanted they should be abundantly
supplied by water.

Hitherto nothing has been said
especially applicable to evergreens,
whether in the open ground or in
pots. ‘These being at every season
of the year more or less in a grow-

ing state, it is always desirable to

transplant them with balls; and it
is only young plants of evergreens,
such as seedling Hollies, Portugal
Laurels, and young cuttings or lay-

/ers of the common Laurel, Lau-

rustinus, Sweet Bay, Phillyrea, Ala-
ternus, Junipers, &c., which can. be
sent toany distance with a certainty
of growing without balls. The
common Holly, when it is above
three or four feet in height, requires
to be taken up with a ball, and that

ball carefully preserved by being

tied up in a mat, or, according to
the Dutch practice, put into a basket
of wicker-work. The same remark
will apply to Arborvite, Junipers,
Arbutus, Rhododendrons, Box, Phyl-
lyreas, and even the common Laurel.

#

hh

The best season for transplanting
all deciduous trees and shrubs is
the autumn ; because the plant has
time to produce some fibres, and
accommodate itself to its new soil
and situation during the winter, so
as to be prepared to grow freely
the following spring. Evergreens
may also be transplanted in autumn,
or at any time in open moist weather

during autumn, winter, or early |

spring. In dry or frosty weather
it is always dangerous to remove
them; because the sap in an ever-
green is more or less in motion at
every season of the year, and the
plant is never so completely dor-
mant as in the case of deciduous

327

PLEASURE-GROUND.

'be shaded for a few days from the
heat of the sun.
Piatysre'mon. — Ranunculdcee.
| One of the Californian annuals, with
/cream-coloured flowers and woolly
glaucous leaves. For the culture,
see CALIFORNIAN ANNUALS.
Prarysti’ema.—Puapaverdcee.—
A very curious little plant with the
petals alternately white and yellow.
|For the culture, see CaLirorNnIAN
ANNUALS.

’ PLeasure-Grownp is that portion
of a country residence which is
_devoted to ornamental purposes,
in contradistinction to those parts
which are exclusively devoted to
utility or profit, such as the kitchen-

trees. Formerly it was thought! garden, the farm, and the park. In
that the best season for removing | former times, when the geometrical
evergreens was in the latter part} style of laying out grounds prevail-
of summer, shortly after they had | ed, a pleasure-ground consisted of
completed their year’s growth ; but | terrace-walks, a bowling-green, a
this doctrine was only acted upon | labyrinth, a bosquet, a small wood,
in the time of Miller and before, | ashady walk commonly of nut-trees,
when there were comparatively few | but sometimes a shady avenue, with
species of evergreens in British gar- | ponds of water, fountains, statues,
dens; and it has been recently &c. In modern times the pleasure-
found by Mr. M’Nab (see his Trrea- | ground consists chiefly of a lawn of
tise on Transplanting Evergreens), smoothly-shaven turf, interspersed
that evergreens may be transplanted | with beds of flowers, groups of
with much greater safety in mild | shrubs, scattered trees, and, accord-
weather in autumn or winter, than | ing to circumstances, with a par

at any other period of the year. | the whole of the scenes and object
Herbaceous plants may in general | which belong to a pleasure-ground
be transplanted at any season when; in the ancient style. The main
they are not in flower, or coming portion of the pleasure-ground is
into flower ; but the safest time for | always placed on that side of the
perennials is in autumn, after they | house to which the drawing-room
have ripened their seeds and are windows open; and it extends in
going into a dormant state. Bien- | front and to the right and left more
nial and annual plants are best or less, according to the extent of
transplanted when quite young, or | the place ; the park, or that part
after they have obtained their second | devoted exclusively to pasture and
or third pair of leaves; and seed- | scattered trees, being always on the
lings in general may be treated in| entrance front. There is no limit
a similar manner. In all cases | to the extent either of the pleasure-
of planting (excepting with Cacti) ground or the park, and no necessary
and other succulents), the plants | connection between the size of the

should be watered as soon as they
are fixed in their new situations;
and when practicable, they should

house and the size of the pleasure-
ground. A small house and a large
garden was the wish of the poet

e

PLEASURE-GROUND.

Cowley ; and the largest parks are
sometimes attached to very small
houses and small pleasure-grounds,
and the contrary. A

that prevalent at any former period,
in including all the scenes and
sources of enjoyment and recreation

of the ancient style as well as the |
For example, adjoining |

modern.
the drawing-room front there is a
terrace or terraces, with or without
an architectural flower-garden, deco-

rated with statues, vases, fountains, |
and other sculptured or architectural

objects. Beyond this, or connected
with it to the right and left, there
may be a lawn with flowers, shrubs,

groups of trees, ponds, lakes, rock-
work, summerhouses, or greenhouse, |
an orangery, and sometimes a bo- |

tanic garden. Walks may stretch
away on either, or on both sides, to
a shrubbery, whi
day, is commonly framed into an
Arboretum and Fruticetum, con-
taining all the hardy trees and shrubs
which the extent of the scene will

admit of ; and in the course of the |
walk through this scene there may |

be rustic structures ; such as wood-
houses, mosshouses, roothouses,

ckhouses, or cyclopzan cottages ;
Srics cottages, common covered

seats, exposed seats of wood or stone, |
temples, ruins, grottoes, caverns, |

imitations of ancient buildings; and,
in short, there is scarcely an archi-
tectural object capable of being ren-

dered ornamental, and a shelter from |

the sun, the wind, or the rain, which
may not find a place.

introduced in a pleasure-ground in
modern times, it is only necessary to
visit such a place as Alton Towers,
in Staffordshire, where, in addition
to the objects mentioned, may be
seen pagodas, hermitages, an imita-
tion ef Stonehenge, and of other
Druidical monuments, shellwork,
gilt domes and huge blocks of massy

528

pleasure- |
ground in modern times differs from |

; in the present |

To know all |
the different scenes which may be.

: a
PODOPHYLLUM.

| rock, bridges, viaducts, and many
other curious objects. In small
‘places of an acre or two, the most
interesting objects which may be
introduced in a_pleasure-ground,
'are collections of trees, shrubs, and
herbaceous plants, which may al-
ways be arranged to combine as
much picturesque beauty and gene-
ral effect as if there were only the
few kinds of trees and shrubs planted
_which were formerly in use in such
'scenes. Where a small place, even
of a quarter of an acre, is to
made the most of, there should sel-
dom be more than one or two trees,
shrubs, or plants of exactly the
same kind; and the ornamental
plants immediately adjoining the
house, may be combined with the
veranda, portico or perch, conser-
vatory, greenhouse or hothouses,
terrace, flights of steps, balustrades,
vases, statues, fountains, walks,
_rockwork, and a. great variety of
|similar objects, according to the
taste of the designer, the peculiar-
ities of the situation, and the ex-
pense which the proprietor is dis-
posed to incur.

Precrra'nruus.— Labiate—East
Indian and Australian plants, gen-
erally requiring a stove in England,
and which are not worth the trouble
it takes to cultivate them.

Piumsa'co. — Plumbaginee. —
_Lead-wort. Greenhouse plants, re-
markable for their vigorous growth
|and abundance of flowers. They
should be grown in light rch soil,
and they are propagated by cuttings.

Povo.eris—— Compdsite.— Very
pretty Australian plants, which
should be grown in a compost of
loam and peat. ‘They are all nearly
hardy ; the perennials are increased
_by dividing the root, and the annu-
als (P. gracilis, &c.) by sowing on
|a hotbed in February or March,
| and transplanting into the open

border in March.
Popopuyiium. — Podophylldece

a

—— ES Oe

POLIANTUES. 329 POLYGALA.

—The May Apple, or Ducksfoot.| white flowers. The bulbs are im-
An American herbaceous marsh | poried from Italy, where they are
plant, which should be grown in a | grown for exportation as Hyacinths
light rich soil kept moist, and which | are in Holland. ‘They require to be
is increased by seeds or dividing its | bronght forward in a frame or pit;
creeping roois. The flower is white, | and when coming into flower, they
and the fruit, which is eatable, is! should be removed to a greenhouse
green and about the size of a plum. | or any cool airy apartment, where

Porrt’s Cassta—See Osy'‘ziss» | they will diffusea powerful fragrance,
Poinci‘ana.—See C #sauri'N1A. which to some is grateful and to
Poinsettia. — Euphorbidcee. others oppressive. ‘They should be

A most splendid plant, not for its| potted in sandy loam; and if the
flowers, which are small and white, | bulbs are intended to flower the
but for its large bright scarlet | second year, the plants should be
bracteas, which, at a little distance, | replaced in heat close to the glass,
have a superb appearance. There | and kept there till the leaves begin
is a variety with white bracteas,|to decay; after which the bulbs
but it is very inferior to the species.| may be treated like those of the
This plant requires a stove, in which | Hyacinth. It is rarely, however,
it should be grown in a compost of | that this can be done with success,
loam and peat. After it has shed | and it is therefore better to throw
its leaves, it should be allowed aj the plants away when they have
season. of rest, during which it| done flowering, and purchase fresh
should be kept nearly dry. It is| bulbs every ah. In_pleasure-
increased by cuttings, which, when | grounds of limited extent, a few
taken off, should be dried for a few | plants of Tuberose in flower, distri-
days, and then plunged into the tan | buted over them at distances of fifty
of a pine pit or stove. or one hundred yards plant from
Poi'vrea.—Combretacee.—This | plant, will diffuse a most delightful
new genus, established by Professor | fragrance in the summer and au-
De Candolle, includes all those spe- | tumnal evenings ; a circumstance
cies of the genus Combretum which | well understood in the public gar-
have ten stamens and five-angled | dens in the vicinity of Paris.
seeds ; the type being Combréiium| Potya'’nrnus.—See Pri/mua.
purpurea, (Poivrea coccinea, Dec.) Pory'caLta— Polygdlee.— Milk-
For the culture, see Comsre‘rum. | wort. Very handsome greenhouse
PoLemo'nium.— Polemonidcee.— | shrubs, natives of the Cape of Good
Greek Valerian. The common} Hope, which should be grown in a
wild species, P. certleum, is very | compost of two-thirds peat, and
abundant on the dry sandy banks | one-third very sandy loam; or
in the lanes near Shenstone, in| equal parts of peat and sand, with
Staffordshire, where it is called | one-third of vegetable mould, may
Charity, though its common namej|be used. The plants should be
in other parts of England is Jacob’s | frequently watered; but the water
Ladder. All the kinds succeed | should not be suffered to remain in
best in gravelly or chalky soil, and|a stagnant state about the roots.
they are all increased by dividing} When it is wished to raise young
the roots. plants, the tips of the shoots should
Poxia/NTHES. — Hemerocallidee. | be taken off about three inches long,
—The Tuberose. A bulbous-rooted | and struck in sand under a bell-
plant, a native of the East Indies, re- glass. All cuttings of the shrubby
markable for ae highly odoriferous | Polygalas are very apt to damp off;
gx

POLYPODIUM.

—_—

frequently taken off and wiped.
There are other kinds of polygala,
natives of Europe, which are her-
baceous perennials; and others
which are natives of North Amer-
ica, some of which are annuals and
some perennials. All the herbace-
ous Polygalas are hardy dwarf
plants, very suitable for rockwork ;
and they may be grown in any
common soil, though they prefer
peat or very sandy loam. Some of
the kinds of Polygala are now in-
cluded in the genus Muraltia, the
type of which is P. Heistéria;
and others in the genus Mundia,
the type of which is P. spindsa.
Potyeona\tum.—Smildcee.—So-
lomon’s' Seal. Hardy perennial
plants, which require no other care
than planting in any common gar-
den soil. They will thrive either
in exposed situations, or under the
shade of trees, but the flowers are
generally largest when the plants
are grown in the shade.
Poxty'conum.—Polygonee.—This

is a very extensive genus, andj

embraces a great many very dif-
ferent plants; some of which are
British weeds, and others stove
plants from the East Indies or New
South Wales. Some of the com-
monest kinds in Britishgardens are
the Buckwheat (Poly'gonum fago-
py\rum), the garden Persicaria, (P.
Persicaria), and the Water-pepper,
(P. Hydropiper), the beautiful pink
flowers of which are so ornamental
in the ponds in Kensington Gardens,
and other places. Plants so various
in their nature, require of course
different kinds of soil and situation ;
but they will all grow in sandy
loam, and are generally of the
easiest culture.
Potyro\p1um.—Cryptogamia F%i-
lices.—An extensive genus of very
beautiful Ferns, some of which are
natives of Britain, and others are
exotic. All Ferns should be grown

330

and therefore the glasses should be

POTAMOGETON.

in shady, damp places; and the
hardy ones thrive most in a shrub-
bery under the dip of trees, where
few other plants will grow. The
exotic kinds should be grown im a
stove glazed with green glass; and
the atmosphere should be kept damp
by water being frequently poured on
the floor and flues.

Pomapbe/rris. — Rhamnacea. —
Australian shrubs with cymes of
yellow flowers and generally woolly
leaves, nearly allied to Ceanothus.
They are very nearly hardy, and
may be grown in the open air with
a little protection during winter.
They should be grown in sandy peat,
or in a mixture of peat and loam ;
and they are propagated by cuttings.

PoMEGRANATE.—See Pu'nica.

PonrepE Rria.—Pontederacee. —
Stove aquatics that should be
planted in rich loamy soil, and the
cistern filled up with water. ‘They
are increased by dividing the roots.

Popry.—See PApaver.

Porcupine Cactus.—See Ecut-
Noca’CTUS.

Portia'np1A.— Rubidcee.—-Stove
shrubs, natives of Jamaica, with
very showy flowers. They should
be grown in sandy peat or very
sandy loam. In Jamaica these
plants grow on calcareous rocks,
where they form low trees, with
large and beautiful tube-shaped
flowers, which are delightfully fra-
grant. There are but two species
known, one of which has white
and the other scarlet flowers, and
they are both propagated by cut-
tings in sand, under a bell-glass,
and plunged into bottom heat.

PortucaL LaureLt. — Cérasus
Lusitanica.—A handsome ever-

green shrub, which thrives best mn

moist shady situations, and which
sometimes attains the size of a tree.
In Ireland, Portugal Laurels attain
an enormous size, the moisture of
the climate suiting them admirably.

Potramoce‘ton. — Alismacee. —

4 eel Fal

331

POTTING.

Pondweed. British weeds, one or! plants may be considered in two

two species of which are ornamen- |
tal; as, for example, P. Ruféscens, |
P. lucens. and P. natans.
Porenti'LLa.— Rosdcee.—A ge-
nus of herbaceous plants, and one
or two shrubs, the greater part of
which are ornamental, and some
eminently so. They all thrive in
any common soil, and are readily
increased by division of the plants,
or by seeds, which most of them
produce in abundance. They also
hybridize freely, from which new
kinds are frequently raised by flor-
ists.
is Potentilia fruticésa, which forms

a hardy bush, commonly between |

two feet and three feet high, and
produces abundance of yellow flow-
ers in July.
herbaceous species are, P. Gunthéri,
P. Sieversidna, and P. Thomasi
with yellow flowers; P. crdcea, P.
atrosanguinea peddata, with copper-
coloured flowers; P. formésa Ges-
neridna, with yellow and red flow-

ers; P. formésa Maydna, and P. |

Hopwoodidna, with pink and white
flowers; P. diba, P. glabra and P.
rupéstris, with white flowers; P.
atrosanguinea fulgens and P. a.

The principal shrabby species |

The most ornamental |

ignéscens, with crimson flowers; |
P. atrosanguinea and P. formosa, |
_the second is to cover the sides of

with deep red or purple flowers,
which are produced from May to
August ;

and P. Russellidna and |

P. astrosanguinea coccinea, with |

dark scarlet flowers. All these spe-

cies are low, few of them exceeding |

one foot in height, and the greater
part not being above six inches.

They are delightful plants for pots |

or for rockwork, and the whole are

so hardy and of such easy culture |

that they will bear neglect better
than most other inhabitants of the
border or the flower-garden.
the kinds, P. Russellidna, with rich

Of all |

POTTING,

-

ways: first, with reference to the
advantages of that mode of growing
| plants as compared with growing
them in the free soil ; and secondly,
with reference to the performance
of the operation of potting. Plants
growing in pots are placed in very
unnatural circumstances, from the
limit given to the extension of their
roots by the small quantity of soil
and the confined space of the pot ;
and by the circumstance of the out-
side of the pot being constantly ex-
posed to the action of the air on
every side. In consequence of these
conditions, the roots of plants in pots
are alternately scorched, and cooled,
and dried by the action of the
atmosphere ; and as, to keep the
plants alive, they require to be fre-
quently watered, the soil soon be-
comes soddened, or soured, as it is

called by gardeners, and the plant
is either checked in its growth, or

becomes diseased. Nevertheless, by
well-considered treatment plants
may be grown in pots to a high de-
gree of perfection, and some kinds
better than in the free soil. For

| this purpose two things are more
especially requisite; the first is to

provide sufficient drainage for the
escape of superfluous matter; and

the pot by some medium which
shall prevent the action of the sur-
rounding air in heating or drying
the outside of the pot, and conse-
quently the soil and roots within.
Every pot, tub, or vessel, in which

_a plant is grown, contains a hole or

holes in the bottom or lower sides ;
and these are to be prevented from
being closed by the soil by a cover-
ing of potsherds, shells, or small
stones, covered with turfy matter,
over which the soil in which the
plant is grown is to be placed. To

4 ‘dark Heh rick flowers, is by far the
3 handsome Z
Portine.—The subject of potting

|prevent the sides of the pot or
vessel in which the plant is grown
from heing scorched or dried by the

POTTING.

332

POTTING.

heat of the sun, ihe pot is plunged
in soil, or in moss, or some other
porous matter, or the pots are placed
sufficiently near together to shade
one another. Different kinds of
piamis require different degrees of
drainage, and of protection from the
sides of the pot. For example, all
Orchidaceous _ plants, succulenis,
and hair-rosted plants, such as the
Ericacez, require a great deal of
drainage ; and all the plants which
require rich moist soil, such as the

Scitaminez, and many of the most |

vigorous-growing tropical herbace-
ous plants, require the sides of the

pot to be protected by plunging it |
_as the size of the ball was when put
into the ground, by which means.

in tan, sand, ashes, soil, moss, or
some other nonconducting medium,
which shall not be readily permeable
by drought or heat.

With respect to the operation of
potting plants, when seedlings or
plants newly rotted by cuttings,
layers, or other means, are to be

* of the least size, or a size somewhat
larger, according to the bulk of the
plant to be planted, or its known

bottom of the pot being covered
with one or more potsherds, and
with some rough, turfy, rooty, or
mossy matter, or with coarse gravel,
some soil is put in over it. On this

placed and spread out, and soil is
placed over them till the pot is
filled, as before mentioned under the
article pLantinc. The soil in the
pot is then consolidated by shaking,
and lifting it up, and setting it down

once or twice with a jar, the soil |
_age, the plant to be changed is turned
out of the first pot by turning it up-
stick as already mentioned. Plants |
of larger size without balls of earth |

round the edge of the pot being ren-
dered firm by the thumb, or by a

| potted.
| especially requisite for such strong-
potied, a small pot is chosen, either |
| Fuchsia fulgens, Scarlet Pelargoni-
| ums, Stocks, Wallflowers, &c. All
plants after beimg newly potted
vigour of growth. The hole in the |

bail entire, require co

one out of which the pl

in the free soil during summer, such
as Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Myr-

tles, and such other plants as are

turned out of pots into the open
garden in the beginning of summer,
and taken up and repotted about
the latter end of autumn, are com-
monly taken up with balls; and,
when this is the case, the pot cho-
sen must be of sufficient size to
admit ef the ball of earth without

breaking it. Previously to the taking

up of these plants, more especially
when they have grown with great
vigour, it is found advantageous to
cut the roots all round about the
same distance from the main stem,

the plant receives a check before
it is taken up, and is prepared to
endure the still greater check which
it will unavoidably receixe when
This precaution is more

growing plants as the Brugmansias,

should receive a sufficient quantity
of water to moisten the whole of

the soil in the pot; and all of them

require to be shaded, to prevent ex-

cessive transpiration till they have
begun to grow.

the roots of the young plants are |
transplanted into other pots with the

Plants in pots which are to be

mparatively
little care. The new pot should be
at least one size larger the old

taken, and, being p
and some mould put over

side down, holding the left hand on
the surface of the soil in the pot, and

attached to the roots, are planted with the neck of the plant between
exactly in the same manner, ex- the two middle fingers, while the

cepting that the pots chosen are |
larger, in proportion to the size of right hand; and then
the plant. Plants which have grown | loosened by the edge of th

bottom of the pot is held with the
Steal oa
being

POTSHERDS.

233

PRIMULA.

atruck against any fixed object, such
as the side of a potting bench, or
the handle of a spade stuck in the
ground. The ball eontaining ‘the
plant will thus drop out into the left
hand, and the potsherds that have
come out with it being taken cif
with the right hand, the ball thus
prepared is set in the middle of the
prepared pot, and the interstices be-
tween the ball and the sides of the
new pot are filled in with earth and
made firm by a potting-stick. The
pot may then be lifted up with both
hands and set down two or three
times with a jar, so as to consolidate
the whole. ‘The pot is then to be
supplied with water to such an extent
as to moisten the whole of the earth
which it contains ; and it may be |
set where it is finally to remain with-
out the necessity of shading. This |
operation is called shifting.

Tn potting plants, whether in small |
or in large pots, it is essentially ne- |
cessary that the inside of the pot |
should be perfectly clean and dry.
If it is not clean, and if particles of |
earth are adhering to the sides of the
pot, the fresh soil put in when the
plant comes to be shifted will so ad-
here to the matter attached to the
sides as to prevent the ball from being |
turned out without breaking, and
tearing asunder the fibrous roots of
the plant. When the sides of a
pot in which a plant is to be planted,
or a ball shifted, are wet, the new |
soil becomes sodden or soured, and |
also adheres so firmly to the sides of
the pot as not to come out in shift-
ing without breaking, as in the pre-
ceding case. The soddening or
souring in this latter case appears to
proceed from the choking up of the
pores of the sides of the pot.

PorsHerps or Crocks, are pieces of
flower-pots, tiles, or bricks, broken
very small, and used for draining pots
where it is required to retain a cer-
tain degree of moisture round the
roots of the plants. Thus potsherds |

| ground under them. ~

should be used for hair-rooted plants,
such as the Cape and Australian
shrubs, and also the North American
Rhododendrons and Azaleas ; as
they require to have their roots kept
in an equable state of moisture,
which would be destructive to the
Cacti and other similar plants. But
cinders, when of a large size, are
very usefal ; in draining pots for very
delicate succulent-rooted plants, as
they do not either absorb or retain
moisture, which crocks always doe.
When cinders are sifted, the largest
may be reserved for this purpose,
and the ashes that fall from them,
or any coal too small to burn, wiil be
useful for setting greenhouse plants
on during summer, as they will pre-
vent worms from coming out of the
Unless this
precaution be take yorms will
creep through the holes at the bet-
tom of the pots, and do great injury
to the plants, by tearing asunder the
tender fibres of the roots in passing

| through the mould, and particularly

in throwing up their casts.
Porrine-Stick.—An instrument
made of wood, and resembling a
paper knife, but thicker and blunter
at the extremity. Its use is to push
the earth into the pots when plants
are shifted or transplanted, and it
prevents the necessity of using the
thumb for that purpose, as is gene-
rally done by gardeners. Potting-
sticks may be made of different sizes
according to the size of the pots.
PrickLty Pear.—See Opu'ntia.
Primrose.—See Pri’Muna.
PrimuLa. — Primulécee. — The
Primrose. This genus includes three
of the most popular and beautiful
of florists’ flowers, viz., the Auricula,
the Polyanthus, and the Primrose.
Of each of these there are numerous
varieties, and much has been written
on their culture and management.
We shall here endeavour to give a

‘short outline of the treatment of

each.

=

PRIMULA. 3

34 PRIMULA.

The Auricula (Primula Auricula)
is a native of the Alps of Switzer-
land, where its flowers are commonly
yellow and very fragant; it may be
gathered in abundance on the road-
side on the highest part of the pass
of the Simplon, growing with the
different Saxifrages, and not far from
Rhododéndron hirsiitum. When it
was transplanted into gardens is
uncertain, but it has been cultivated
in Britain since the days of Gerard,
in 1596 ; and ina state of cultivation
its flowers are yellow, red, blue, pur-
ple, white, and green, and single and
double, though the only double va-
riety has the flowers yellow. Many
elaborate directions have been given
for preparing the soil for the Auri-
cula; and while some writers, as
Justice, recommend rotten willow-
wood anda cowdung, others, as
Emmers recommend bullock’s
blood, sugar-bakers? scum, and con-
centrated night-soil. The plants,
however, will grow and thrive on
any rich loamy soil, for example, ina
mixture of leaf-mould, or thoroughly
rotten cowdung and loam. They
will even grow very well in heath
soil mixed with loam ; and this is
the soil in which they are commonly
grown 1n the neighbourhood of Paris.
Whatever kind of manure is used
for the Auricula, it should be so
thoroughly decomposed as to have
become a fine mould, and, in this
state, it may be mixed with the
common soil of gardens in equal
parts, with the addition of a fifth or
a sixth part of coarse sand if the
plants are to be grown in pots. All
the choice varieties of Auricula are
grown in pcts, and kept under cover
in glass fraines shaded ; or placed in
a northern exposure during winter
and spring, and in the open air in a
situation open to the east or the west
during summer after the flowering
season is over. During the time
they are in flower, they are com-
monly kept in frames close under

|

the glass, or under hand-glasses to
protect the flowers from the rain ;
the flowers in all the varicties, and
the leaves in some, being more or
less covered with a powdery bloom,
the preservation of which is a desi-
deratum among choice cultivators.
The Auricula is propagated by divi-
sion of the root, or by cutting off
slips which have generally some
roots attached, and are put at once
into small pots. The season for
performing the operation is shortly
after the flowers have gone off, or,
if they are left on, immediately after
the seed has ripened. ‘There are
common kinds of Auricula which
are planted in borders or in beds in
the open ground; but, as_ before
observed, all the choicer sorts are
grown in pots and kept in pits or
frames. The culture rsguires so
much care and nicety, test ‘whoever
would excel in it, and possess a good
collection, should procure a book
specially devoted to the culture of
this and other florists’ flowers ; for
example, to Hogg’s Treatise on the
Auricula, or Maddox’s Flerisi’s
Directory. Auriculas, when grown
as florists’ flowers, have almost in-
numerable names; but they nay be
all divided into three classes, viz.,
those with green edges, those with
gray edges, and those of only one
colour, which are ealled selfs. No
Auricula is valued that is what is
called pin-eyed, that is, if the style
and stigma appearabove the anthers.
The Polyanthus (Primula vul-
garis, var. cauléscens) and
rose (Primula vulgaris, var.
lis) are cultivated in thes
and in the same manner as the Au-
ricula; but being much _ hardier,
and also naturally stronger, a larger
portion of loam is used in the soil,
and only the more choice sorts are
grown in pots. Both Polyanthuses
and Primroses form most ornamental
border flowers in early spring, but
only the Polyanthus is what is

PRIMULA.

335

PRIMULA.

properly called a florist’s flower.
The colour of the flower of Poly-
anthus is always yellow and brown,
and the finest flowers are those that
have the segments of the corolla
flat, and the circumference marked
with a yellow line, the anthers of
the stamens being only visible, and
not the pistil, the anthers being ar-
ranged symmetrically, so as to form
what florists call a none eye. Some-
times the anthers are not seen, but
the style and stigma stand up con-
spicuously like a large pin; and
when this is the case, the flowers
are called pin-eyed, and are consid-
ered worthless. The double Poly-
anthus, and the red and white
Hose-in-hose Primrose, are two
varieties, having double corollas,
which may be called botanists’ va-
rieties, and are ornamental border
flowers, but are not valued by flo-
rists. Besides these, however, there
are a great many florists’ varieties
with names, which are cultivated
in pots like Auriculas.

The Primrose is very ornamental
as a border flower, but it has not
sported so much as the Polyanthus,
and there are therefore no florists’
primroses. The border or garden
varieties, however, which are mostly
double, are very showy; among
these the double flesh-coloured,
double white, double’ brimstone,
double red, double copper, double
dark purple, and double violet, de-
serve a place in every garden. ‘The
single white and the single red,
both of which are found wild, are
also much admired, and are valuable
as coming into bloom in March.

Primula elatior, the Oxlip, has a
scape or flower-stem rather taller
than that of the Polyanthus, but
the flowers arenot solarge. There
are a number of varieties, but none
of them have been selected and
named.

Primula véris, the Cowslip, bears
a close resemblance to the Oxlip,

See ee ee a a A EE er aed

but is more commonly found with
the flowers yellow than red, and
like the Oxlip it is a pretty border
flower. ‘The Polyanthus, the Prim-
rose, the Oxlip, and the Cowslip,
are all species of the same genus,
and fecundate one another readily,
so that an endless number of va-
rieties may be raised from seed.
Where there is room and leisure,
this affords a great source of interest
to the amateur, who, as every plant
comes into flower for the first time,
is eager to observe whether it pre-
sents any thing new, and if new,
good. When a gardener raises these
plants from seed, and finds his la-
bour and anxiety rewarded with a
good variety, he is delighted, and
probably gratifies himself by calling
it some high-soundi ame, and
promising or exchanging pant of
it with his friends. eeds may
be gathered when the capsules are
ready to burst in July, and sown
immediately in a shady border, or
in pots or pans of loamy soil kept
moist and shaded. The covering
should be very slight, otherwise the
seeds will not come up. In fine sea-
sons seeds sown as soon as they are
gathered will produce plants which
will flower in the following autumn ;
but in general it is necessary to
wait till the next spring. When
the seedlings have produced two or
three leaves, they should be trans-
planted into rich foamy soil, in a
shady situation, at the distance of
a few inches from each other; and
as they come into flower the good
sorts should be marked, and the less
admired kinds pulled up and thrown
away. When the seed is not sown
immediately after being gathered,
it may be kept till the following
March, and treated-as above men-
tioned. Auricula seed requires ex-
actly the same treatment; except-
ing that it is generally sown in pans
of soil composed of a mixture of
leaf-mould and loam, and the seed-

eg

PRIVET.

eee eet

lings are transplanted into larger
pans, or into single small pots. The
seed of common border Auriculas
may be treated like that of the
Polyanthus or Primrose.

Primula cortusoides is a very
ornamental species, which produces
its red flowers from May to July;
it requires a loamy soil, kept moist,
and a shady situation; and there-
fore cannot be treated like a com-
mon border flower.

Primula decora, P. nivalis, P.
villosa, P. marginata, P. helvética,
P. farinosa, P. paliniri, P. scética,
and several others, might be named
as rare and beautiful species, na-
tives of alpine regions, and requir-
ing to be cultivated with care in
loamy ur peaty soil, kept moist, in
an open and airy, but yet shady
oa

P. prenitens, the Chinese Prim-
rose, is a very beautiful greenhouse
plant, «f which there are varieties
with fink, with white, and with
semi-deuble flowers. All these are
particularly valuable, as forming
neat little plants, and flowering
throughout the winter. They are
propagated by seeds, which gener-
ally come true to the variety; or
by cuttings, which must be struck
by sand under a bell-glass, and with
bottom-heat. They are only bien-
nials, and therefore new plants re-
quire to be raised every year. They
are generally grown in pots, which
should be well drained with pot-
sherds, and filled up with a rich
compost of equal parts of loam,
peat, or sand, and rotten dung or
vegetable mould.

Prince’s Featuer.—Amardantus
hypochondriacus.—-See AMARA'NTUS.

Pri'nos, — Rhamnicee.— Hardy
North American shrubs, that will
grow in any light soil, though they
prefer peat, and any situation.
They are generally propagated by
layers.

Privet.—See Licu'strum.

a

Props are artificial supports for
plants; and they are of various
kinds, according to the nature of
the plant that is to be supported.
Twining plants are supported by
single rods, stakes or poles without
branches; plants which climb by
tendrils are supported by branched
rods ; and plants which raise them-
selves by elongation or long slender
shoots among other plants are sup-
ported artificially by branched rods,
or by being tied to simple rods. All
these kinds of plants, when too ten-
der to be supported in the open gar-
den, are trained to walls, which are
the universal supports of plants,
whether of the hardy and ligneous
kinds, or of such as are slender,
somewhat delicate, and either natu-
rally climbing, such as Bignonia
capreolata,—or rambling or trailing,
such as different kinds of roses.
Ornamental plants grown in pots
are sometimes supported by single
rods of wood, or of iron or wire, and
sometimes by small frames either
of wood oriron. These frames may
either be flat and of equal breadth
from the surface of the pot upward ;
or they may be widest at top, which
suits most sorts of climbers ; or they
may be made in the form of cones,
pyramids, inverted cones, or bal-
loon-hke shapes, at pleasure. A

very common form for such plants
as Trope‘olum pentaphy'llum, T.
tricolorum, and T. brachycéras, is

those grown in beds or borders, such
as Sweet Peas, the common Trope-
olum (Nasturtium), the Scarlet-run-
ner, &c., should have small branchy
stakes inserted in the soil in a regu-
lar manner, so as never to appear
the work of chance or of careless-
ness, but of art and careful design.

aos a ee aa = FO

PROPS.

Climbing roses may either be sup-

ported by training against walls or
trellis-work, or on single rods, with
expanding parasol-like tops of wire-
work ; or they may be supported on

337

7

PROPS.

of using straight rods of hazel, or
some such wood, with “the bark on.
The object in using the rods of this
kind is not so much to avoid the
appearance of the use of the instru-

cones or pyramids of rods or poles.| ments of the carpenter, as to avoid

NAA

Fig. 43.—Props for Climbers.

The stronger-growing climbing Ro-
ses, which attain the height of
twenty feet, or thirty feet, or up-
ward, such as the double Ayrshire
Rose, the Rose de Lille, the Bour-
sault, R. Grevillii, or the Seven
Sisters, Noisettes, &c., may be sup-
ported on cones or pyramids two
feet or three feet in diameter at the
ground, and rising to the height of
twenty feet, formed of the stems of
young Fir trees tied togei \er: ten-
der roses, on the other hand, such
as Rosa Banksia, the Musk Rose,
require to be trained against walls.
Props for border-flowers may either
be small rods made by splitting the
laths used by plasterers or by car-
penters from deal-board ; but per-
haps the best mode, because least

the conspicuousness which is the
result of all artificial props, and es-
pecially of such as are not painted
green. The principle to be taken,
as a guide is, that the rod should
always be subordinate to the plant
to be supported by it or trained on
it. If this principle is kept con-
stantly in view, few glaring errors
will be committed either in forming
supports for plants in pots, or for
plants in the open ground. Hence
walls on which plants are to be
trained should never be built of
bright red brick, or very . white
stone ; or if they are plastered, the
color should always be of a subdued
kind. Some plants are trained up
rods or cones for the sake of pro-
ducing flowers ; and others, such as
Ivy, when trained up an erect rod
with an umbrella-like top for the
sake of producing shade. When
the object is flowers during the
whole extent of the plant, the prop
should always be wider at the base
than at the top, in order that the
foliage may enjoy the direct influ-
ence of the sun and of perpendicu-
lar rains during its whole extent ;
and this may easily be effected by
fixing a pole in the ground, with
short sticks in the top, to which
chains, ropes, or wires may be af-
fixed, up which the plants may be
trained. When the flowers are
chiefly to be produced at the top,
and the object of the stem is merely
to elevate the top to a considerable
distance from the ground, then the
latter must spread over the former
as much as may be desirable for the
sake of effect. In like raanner,
when the object is shade, or the
<overing of a summer shelter or a

artificial and ostentatious, is that | hower, the stems may be trained

29

be

PROPS. 333

upright and may be shaded to any
extent by the head—See Train-
1NG.

Wire frames for training plants
in pots are generally painted green ;
but a more artistical color would be
that of stone or of the bark of trees,
or of young rods; because green
too much resembles nature, and the
object in imitating nature ought
never to be to produce such a re-
semblance as might be mistaken for
it. In supporting large flowers, such
as Dahlias, or shrubs, such as stand-
ard Roses, in the open garden, stakes
of cast or wrought iron are frequent-
ly used, and the color they are
painted is almost always green ; but
though this color abstractedly con-
sidered is so agreeable to the eye,
yet its use on stakes to be used
among living plants cannot be de-
fended as artistical. A brown col-
or, or some tint nearer that of the
park of rods, say those of the ash
or hazel, would undoubtedly be in
better taste. ‘Twining plants, such
as the Convolvulus, are frequently
encouraged to twine round cords
made fast at the root of the plant
at one end, and to a wall, horizontal
rail, or some other fixed point or
line, at the other. Very handsome
screens may be formed in this man-
ner, and also very agreeable figures,
provided care is taken that the fig-
ure shall not be much broader at
the summit than it is at the base.
An obelisk, a column, a cone, a
pyramid, or a cross, in an open airy
situation, may be covered so as to
produce a very striking effect. Ar-
cades and covered ways, formed of
framework of wood or wire, may be
covered with creepers of every de-
scription, ligneous or herbaceous ;
but the beauty of the flowers is only
seen externally, and the advantage
to the spectator walking beneath is
shade alone. When shade and the
beauty of the flowers are to be both
enjoyed by the spectator in a cov-

» le «(a ae

PROTEA.

ered walk, the covering ought to be
produced by arches placed at regu-
lar distances, so as to admit of the
air and light between, by which
means the plants will be covered
with flowers from the ground to the
crown of the arch. The arches
may either cross the walk at right
angles, or they may cross eacn
other so that the vertical profile of
every two arches would form a
cross.

Trees, after they have grown for
some years, frequently lean to one
side, especially such trees as the
Judas tree, the Mulberry, the
Pinaster, and even the Laburnum.
These require props to set them up-
right, and the kind requisite for this
purpose is a wooden prop forked at
the extremity. In like manner, the
branches of trees sometimes split,
or for other reasons hang down, so
as to incommode the path or the
surface beneath; and in this case
the branches require to be tied to-
gether by iron rods.

Pro‘\rea.— Protedcee.—Singular-
looking plants, natives of the Cape
of Good Hope, which are very dif-
ficult to cultivate, as their roots are
fleshy and very apt to be injured
either by a want of water or an ex-
cess. They must also have abun-
dance of light and air, and not be
crowded with other plants. They
should be grown in pots nearly half-
filled with potsherds, in light turfy
loam mixed with equal parts of fine
silver sand, and placed in a green-
house. Great care must be taken
in shifting them whea ‘require
larger p ts, as their roots are very
brittle, and will be found to have
entwined themselves among the
potsherds, from which it is very dif-
ficult to disengage them, and for
this reason the drainage should not
be disturbed, but transferred entire
with the ball of earth to the new
pot. These plants are propagated
by cuttings taken off at a joint, anu

PRUNELLA.

planted in separate pots in sand un-
der a glass, but not plunged in a
hotbed; and the glass should be
frequently taken off and wiped, as
the cuttings are very apt to damp
off.

Prorectine. — As _ half - hardy
plants, trained against a wall, are
frequently much injured by what
are called perpendicular frosts, a
thatched or wooden coping, project-
ing about two feet from the wall,
will be found of the most essential
service in protecting them. Such
a coping, with a sprinkling of straw
or dead leaves over the roots, anda
hay-band twisted round the trunk
of the tree, about a foct from the
ground, to protect the collar of the
plant, will be sufficient to protect
even tender plants from all ordinary
frosts. Standard plants may be
protected by laying straw or dead
leaves over the root, and covering
them with a thatching of straw at-
tached to the trunk of the tree, and
sloping off widely at the base.—
See Tuarcuine. Other coverings
made of straw or rushes plaited
and sewed together, or of osiers
twisted like basket-work, may be
used for smaller planis. One of
these may be a kind of hurdle to
protect plants against a wall; others
may be used to put reund ‘he stems
of young trees, and to v ver tree
peonies, and other tall shrubs, with
an opening on the side next the sun
to admit the air and prevent damp;
and others are small beehive-like
covers for protecting geraniums or
other g use-plants in the bor-
ders. Sometimes a slight wire
frame is used like that shown in fig.
44, which may be covered with a
mat. A frame of this kind is par-
ticularly useful for the tree Peony.
—(See the ApprEnpIx.)

Proune'uua. — Labidie.— Herba- |

339

9

PRUNING. =

rock-work or geometrical flower-
gardens. They should be grown
in light rich soil; and they are in-
creased by dividing the root

€

Fig. 44.—Wire Frame.

Pruninc ornamental trees and
shrubs is seldom practised to much
extent ; as all that is required is to
cut out the dead wood and to pre-
vent the shoots from growing out of

|shape. To do this effectually, every
lady ought to be provided with a

| pair of pruning-shears, (see fig. 45,)

Fig. 45.—Pruning Shears.

/so contrived as to make what is
| called a draw-cut, and thus not to
bruise the wood or the bark so as
_to prevent its uniting again smooth-
ily. The cut should also be made
| slanting to a bud, so as not to leave
(a piece of dead wood projecting
beyond the young shoot, which has
always a very bad effect. Much of

ceous plants with showy flowers, the beauty of a flower-garden de-
natives of Europe and North Amer- pends on removing the dead roses
ica, which are well adapted for! and other flowers as soon as they

%

——_———

&

PTELEA.

340

PURSHIA.

fade, and also all the dead or broken |
branches; but this is a point of |
culture which is very rarely pro-
perly attended to.
Pru'nus.—Rosdacee.—The Plum.
Though the common Plum-tree
ranks among fruit-trees, and as
such is not entitled to a place in
the present work, yet there are
many species of Prunus which may
e considered as some of our most
ornamental shrubs. Among these
are P. candicans, with woolly
leaves and long clusters of white

flowers; P. cocomilla, a native of |

taly; P. maritima, with white
flowers and dark-blue fruit; and P.
divaricata, with white flowers and
yellow fruit. "There are many other
ornamental shrubs which are called
Prunus in the nurseries, but which
botanists now class in the genus
Cr/rasus. Among these are the
Mahaleb or Perfumed Cherry, form-
erly called Pri:nus Mahaleb; and
the Bird Cherry, which Linneus
called Primus Padus. All the
kinds of Prunus are quite hardy,
and will grow in any common
soil.

Psi’ pr1um— Myrtacee.—The Gua-
va. Tropical shrubs, which are
generally grown in a stove in Eng-
land, but one kind of which, Cat-
tley’s Guava, will ripen fruit in a
greenhouse. In the West Indies

the fruit is used for making the well
known Guava jelly. All the kinds
should be grown in loam and peat,
and they are all propagated by lay-
ers.

Psora‘LeEa. — Leguminosae. —
Shrubby and herbaceous plants, of
easy culture, some of which require
a greenhouse in England. They
grow freely in loam and peat, and
are propagated by seeds or cuttings.
Most of the species are natives of
the Cape of Good Hope.

Pre‘Lea. — Terebinthacee. — A-
merican shrubs, quite hardy in Brit-
ish gardens, and ornamental for the

fine yellow which their leaves take
in autumn. They will grow in any

garden soil, and they are multiplied

by cuttings and layers.
Pre‘ris. — Filices. — Brake. A
very ornamental kind of fern, For

| the culture, see PoLypo‘pium.

Putmona\rta.—- Boraginee.—-Her-
baceous plants with rather orna-
mental flowers, natives of Europe
and America, which will grow in

| almost any soil and situation.

Pou'nica.—Granatiacee, or Myr-
tacee.—The Pomegranate is a very
handsome deciduous shrub or low
tree, which, in the climate of Lon-
don, thrives against a conservative
wall, and produces fruit which at-
tain their full size, though they but
seldom ripen. It also grows in great
luxuriance near Bath. The fruit,
which is of a globular shape and
retains the calyx, has been admired
for its form from the earliest ages,
and is one of the most conspicuous
ornaments directed to be used in the
construction of Solomon’s temple.
There is a double-flowered variety,
which, during the seventeenth and
eighteenth centuries, was the most
favourite plant im Continental. and
British orangeries next to the Or-
ange and the Lemon ; and there is
also a dwarf double-flowered varie-
ty, which, when kept in a green-
house, produces its fine vermilion
flowers from August to November.
The plant requires a dry loamy soil,
a south wall, and an airy situation ;
and care should be taken in pruning
it not to cut out the s lateral
twigs or spurs, on whi ne the

lossoms are produced, which should
be left projecting from the wall. It
strikes root freely from ripened cut-
tings and layers, and the yellow
and the white-flowered varieties are .
sometimes grafted on the common
kind.

Pu'rsuta. — Rosdcea. — A little
North American shrub, with small
yellow flowers, which is quite hardy,

PYRUS.

and should be grown in sandy peat.
It is propagated by layers.

Pyre'rurum.— Composite. — Fe-
verfew. Most of the species are
hardy perennials, which only require
planting in the open garden and the
usual treatment of perennial plants.
According to the latest arrange-
ments of botanists, the Chinese
Chrysanthemums are now included
in the genus Pyrethrum.

Py‘roxta. — Rosdicee. — Winter- |
A pretty little shrub, one)

green.

species of which, P. rotundifolia,
is found wild in Sussex.
Py‘rus.—Rosdcee.—The Apple
and Pear Trees.
kinds of Crabs and Pears are very
ornamental from their blossoms, in-
dependently of the utility of the fruit
of some of the species. The orna-
mental kinds are all low trees, ad-
mirably adapted for the lawn or the
shrubbery ; they are dll of easy cul-
ture in any common garden soil ;
and they are propagated by grafting
the finer on the more common kinds.
To thrive and look well, however,
they require an airy situation, and
not to be crowded among other
trees. Most of the species, and es-
pecially the Crabs, are very liable
to be attacked by insects in the leaf-
ing and flowering season ; and they
should then be carefully watched,
and the caterpillars picked off as
soon as they are visible. Among
the kinds most worthy of notice are
the following: Py‘rus spectabilis,
the Chinese Crab or Garland-flow-
ering Wild Apple, producing the
most showy flowers of the whole
genus in May, and as hardy as the
common Crab or Wild Pear. P.
coronaria, the Sweet-scented Crab,
with large and beautiful pink blos-
soms, highly fragrant, as is the first.
P. c. angustifolia, the narrow-
leaved sweet-scented Crab, with
blossoms as beautiful as the former,
and with the leaves sub-evergreen.
This, and the two preceding kinds,
29*

A

The different |

341

=

PYRUS.

_———

have the fruit green when ripe, and

fragrant, but it is not good to eat.
g g

Py‘rus baccata and P. prunifolia,
the two kinds of Siberian Crab, have
very showy blossoms, and small red
or yellow fruit, useful in cookery.
These are the principal ornamental
species of the Crab or Apple kind,
unless we except one, the Moscow
or Transparent Crab, Py‘rus Astra-
canica, which has fruit almost as
large as a golden Pippin, wax-col-
oured, and almost transparent when
ripe. Though commonly cultivated
for its fruit, as useful for the table,
it well deserves a place on the lawn
as an ornamental plant, from the
extraordinary beauty of the Crabs.
The ornamental Pears are the fol-
lowing: P. salvifolia, which has
woolly leaves like those of the Sage,
and, like all the Pears, white flow-
ers ; this peculiarity, independently
of other marks, distinguishing them
from the Apples, which have always
reddish flowers. P. amygdalefor-
mis is another ornamental species,
which has silvery-white leaves, and
fruit shaped like that of the Almond;
and to these may be added P. ele-
agnifolia, which has long narrow
white leaves like those of the Ele-
dgnus; P. salicifolia, with long,
narrow, silky leaves, like those of
the willow ; and P. nivalis, which
has round leaves of a snowy white-
ness. All these species have small
green fruit not good to eat ; but the
trees are most ornamental from
their shape and the singular colour
of their foliage. The following
kinds of Pyrus belong to the section
Atria. P. A‘ria, and its varieties,
P. A. angustifolia and P. A. créti
ca, the White Beam Tree, are ad
mired for the beauty of their leaves
which are green above and white
beneath, and for the bright scarlet
fruit which they produce in great
abundance. P. vestita, the Nepal
White Beam Tree, is a rare and
beautiful object, as its leaves, which

®

PYRUS.

are clothed with a thick white wool
beneath, are of a large size, and die
off in autumn of a most beautiful
pale yellow. Other ornamental spe-
cies of Pyrus are as follows: P.

342

QUEEN’S NEEDLEWORK.

tifélia has white flowers and black
fruit, and the leaves of this beconm
of a beautiful red in autumn ; there
are six or eight varieties, commonly

treated as species; P. chamemés-

varioldsa, remarkable for the vary- |

ing forms of its foliage, which is
sometimes pinnate, like that of the
Mountain Ash, and sometimes deep-
ly lobed and cut, like that of the
Hawthorn, or entire and cordate and
pointed, like that of the Pear. It
is somewhat tender, and thrives best
in a sheltered situation, or against a
wall.
Wild Service Tree, is remarkable

for the beautiful form of its leaves, |

which, however, are unfortunately
very apt to be eaten by insects. The

and very ornamental in the winter
season. Py\rus aucupdria, the
Mountain Ash, is a_ well-known

small tree. beautiful both when in|

flower and in fruit, and worth culti-
vating for its foliage alone. Py‘rus
americana, the American Mountain
Ash, resembles the common sort,
but has larger leaves and smaller
fruit, though it 1s of a much deeper
red. Py‘rus Sorbus, the common
Service Tree, has foliage like that
of the Mountain Ash, but larger ;
and the fruit resembles that of the
commen Pear, but much smaller,
and not ornamental though it is eat-
able. Py‘rus spiria, a native of
Kamschatka, has leaves like the
Elder, and small black fruit: the
leaves of this species die off in au-
tumn of an intensely deep purple,
which is almost black. There is a
pendulous variety, P. s. péndula,
which is one of the most ornament-
al of drooping-branched small trees ;
and, as neither the variety nor the

species exceed twelve feet or fifteen |

feet in height, they are admirably
adapted for small gardens.

The following kinds of Pyrus are
shrubs, and very ornamental, both
for their fruit and flowers: P. arbu-

P. tormindlis, the Griping |

pilus, which has large white flowers
and red or black fruit, and P.
floribiinda, which grows about four
feet high, and sends down weeping
branches all round, which are cover-
ed with such a profusion of white
flowers during the flowering season,
that the plant looks like a hillock
covered with snow. ‘These last-
mentioned shrubby kinds are some-
times called Aronia. All the plants
belonging to the genus Pyrus are
quite hardy, and will grow freely in

any common garden soil, and they
buds are large, of a beautiful green, |

may all be raised from seeds, or
grafted on the Wild Crab, or Wild
Pear, or on the Hawthorn, which,
though belonging to the genus Cra.
tegus, is very nearly allied to Pyrus

Q.

QuAKING-GRAsS.—See Bri'za.

Qua’ssia.— Simarubidcee.—Stove
shrubs, natives of the East Indies,
the bark, wood, and Toot of which
are so intensely bitter, that an ex-
tract from the bark of some of the
species is used as a substitute for
hops in making beer, and also as a
poison for flies and aphides. Q. amda-
ra is very ornamental from its long
upright racemes of bright scarlet
flowers, the petals of which are cu-
riously twisted together. sugieares
also are very remarkable ; they are
impari-pinnate, with only two pairs
of leaflets, the mid-ribs of the leaflets,
and also that of the main leaf, which
is winged, being pink. The plants
flower freely, if allowed plenty of
heat. They should be grown in
loam mixed with peat or sand; and
they are propagated by cuttings. ,

QuEEN’s NEEDLEWoRK.—Spire'a
salicifolia—See Sprr#\a.

s

“y

QUISQUALIS. 343 RAKE.

Que’rcus.—Amenticee, or Cupu-
| lifere—-The Oak. The species are
chiefly forest trees, but Q. Ilex, the

Indies, with singular flowers ; and
large and handsome leaves. The
flowers are shaped something like

evergreen Oak, and some of its
varieties, may be treated as shrubs,
and are very ornamental on lawns,
and in pleasure-grounds. Some of

those of the Jasmine, but with an
excessively long tube, and a very
small limb, which when it first ex-
pands is white, but which afterwards

the kinds of the Turkey Oak, Q.| becomes pink, getting darker and

Cérris, are also very ornamental,
particularly Q. C. Lucumbedna,
which grows rapidly and forms a
very handsome pyramidal tree. It
ought, however, to be purchased in
pots, as it produces but few lateral
roots, and seldom grows well, if it is

transplanted from the open ground. |

The American Oaks are very hand-
some, particularly for the colours
their leaves take in winter. Q. coc-
cinea, and Q. rubra, have deeply cut
leaves, which become of a beautiful
red in autumn ; as do the leaves of
Q. palustris, which are more ele-
gantly shaped than those of any of
the other kinds. Some of the dwarf
American bear Oaks, such as Q.
Banisteri, and Q. ilicifolia, do not
grow above two or three feet high ;
and they are called Bear Oaks, be-
cause in their native countries the
bears can eat their acorns, without
climbing.

Quince.—See Cypo'‘NIA.

Quincunx.—A mode of planting
trees in rows, by which the plants
in one row are opposite the spaces in
the next; so as to form a succession
of diamonds.—See fig. 46.

See,
oi ff

Fig. 46.—Trees in Quincunx.

darker, till it finally becomes of a
blood-red. The plant should be
grown in loam and peat, and it is
propagated by cuttings struck in
sand under a hand-glass.

R.

Raccep Rosin.—See Ly'cunis.

Raewort.—See Orno’nna ; and
SENECIO.

Raxg, a well-known toothed im-
plement for raking the surface of
dry ground, or collecting together
grass on lawns which have been
mown, or weeds on surfaces which
have been hoed. There is also what
is called the Daisy rake, in which
the teeth or tines are lance-shaped,
sharp at the,edges, and so close to-
gether that when drawn or raked
over the surface of a lawn they
collect or cut off the heads or flow-
ers of such plants as the Daisy,
Crowfoot, Plantain, &c. The heads
of rakes, or that part which contains
the teeth or tines, are of different
lengths, from six inches to two feet ;
and the teeth, which are placed at
from one inch to two inches apart,
are from two inches to four in length.
In raking dug soil with a view to
render the surface even and fine,
and also to collect stones, roots, &e.,
the handle of the rake should be
held close to the middle of the
operator, so that the tines may pass
through the ground at an angle less
than 45°; but when weeds or short
grass are to be raked up, or the
heads of Daisies to be cut off, the

. Quisaua‘Lis. —Combreticee.—A handle of the rake must be held
‘stove climber, a native of the East | above the middle of the operator, so

RANUNCULUS.

that the tines may form an angle
with the soil above 45°. In the
latter case it is desirable that the |
tines should slide along the sur-
face ; but in the former it is neces-
sary that they should penetrate into
it throughout nearly their whole
length.
Ranu'ncutus.—Ranunculdcee.—
The Ranunculus.

flowers, and florists’ flowers. The |
latter consist of some hundreds of |
varieties obtained from the species |
Raninculus asidticus, a native of |
the Levant with tuberous roots,
which is rather too tender to endure

The species may |
be divided into two kinds; border)

a cold frame.

the winter in the open air without |

some kind of protection.
plant grows naturally in Persia, in

The wild |

meadows which are moist during |

winter and in the growing season,

mer. Hence one of the first requi-

varieties are all double and in a

highly artificial state, the soil re- |

quires to be made very rich with
leaf-mould, or the mould of hotbed
dung. The common season for
planting the Ranunculus is Novem-
ber ; the roots may be placed about
six inches apart every way, covered
with two inches of soil, and protect-
ed by straw, mats, or rotten tan,
during severe frosts. The plants
will come into flower in July, and
when the leaves wither, the roots
may be taken up, dried in the shade,
and preserved in a dry place till
they are wanted for re-planting. A
great many named kinds may be
procured in the seed-shops, the most
distinct of which are the Turban,
or very dark red, the orange, the
white, and the a or cut-leaved.
As the plant seeds freely even when
semi-double, new sorts without end
may be raised from seed, which
may be sown in pots or flat pans as
soon as it is gathered, and placed in

}in March.
but dry during great part of sum- |

RANUNCULUS.

Those persons whe
wish to grow the Ranunculus as 7}
prize flower, should consult Hogg’:
Treatise on the Ranunculus, o

‘some other work exclusively devo.

ted to florists’ flowers; but for pri-
vate gardens, it may be sufficient
to remark the following particulars
The tubers, if kept dry, will retain
their vitality for two or three years;
and hence, if roots which should
be planted in November, are kept
out of the ground till the November
following, and then planted and
protected from frost, and when they
appear above ground put into
greenhouse heat, they will flower
at Christmas. If not planted till
December, they will flower about
the end of January, and if not
planted till January, they will flower
In this way, by always
having a stock of old roots, and

| planting some every month in the
sites in the culture of this flower is |
aloamy soil kept moist; and as the |

year, Ranunculuses may be had in
flower, all the year round. It is
necessary, however, in the case of
all those planted between March
and November, to supply the beds
abundantly with water so as to
keep the soil continually moist ;
and if they are not shaded during
the mid-day sun, they will be very .
deficient both in size and colour.
The common mode of propagating
the Ranunculus is by separating the
offsets from the larger roots.

The common Crowfoots are Bni-
tish weeds; but there are several
border flowers belonging to this
family which are well deserving of
cultivation, and of which the fol-
lowmg are the most remarkable:
R.aconitifolius, the white-flowered
Bachelor’s Button, an old inhabit-
ant of British gardens, prolific in
double white flowers in May and
June, and very ornamental; &.
acris flore pléno, the double-flow-
ered yellow Bachelor’s Button,
which flowers in June and July, is.
also a very desirable plant; as are

REAUMURIA.

345

RESEDA.

R. répens flore pléno and R. bulbo-
sus flore pléno, both producing fine
yeliow double flowers in May and
June. R. nemordsus produces its
yellow flowers from May to August ;
and R. pennsylvanicus is rare and
curious. WR. ally‘ricus is remarka-
ble for its silky white leaves, and
R. monspelidcus for its early flow-
ers, which are produced in April.
R. cortusefolius is handsome both
for its foliage and flowers; and R.
rute@folius is a low plant well adapt-
ed for pots or rockwork, producing
abundance of pretty white flowers
from May to July. R. platanifo-
lius is rare in British gardens, being
commonly confounded with R. aco-
nitifolius, from which it differs in
growing to twice the height of that
plant ; and in producing its flowers
in June and July, while the other
flowers in May. R. plantagineus
is very handsome, with glaucous
lanceolate leaves, and white flowers
produced in April; and R. angusti-
folius, R. amplexicailis, R. parnas-
sifolius, and R. gramineus, of which
there is a double-flowered variety,
are all very handsome and desirable
species.

Rapuio'Lepis. — Rosdcee.— The
Indian Hawthorn. Very elegant
shrubs, natives of China, with white
flowers, the centre of which is red;
the bark is also reddish ; and there
is a reddish tinge in the leaves.
The species are only half-hardy in
England, and they are generally
kept in the greenhouse, though they
will grow in the open air against a
conservative wall. The soil in
which they are grown should be a
very sandy loam, or loam mixed
with peat ; and they are propagated
by cuttings of the ripe wood struck
in sand under a bell-glass.

Reacumu‘x1a.— Ficoidee.—-A very
pretty little shrub, with fleshy leaves,
and bright purple flowers, very suit-
able for rockwork. It should be
grown in peat and loam, or in heath

mould, in rather a dry situation; as
it is very liable to damp off if grown
in a moist situation in the shade.
It prefers a warm sunny bank,
where it flowers abundantly, and is
very ornamental.

Rep Cepar.—See Juni'Perus.

RENANTHE RA. — Orchiddcee. —
The Chinese Air-plant. A very
handsome genus of the East Indian
Orchideous Epiphytes. It is a true
parasite, and never flowers well in
a pot. It is a climbing plant; but
it differs from all other climbers in
attaching itself to surrounding ob-
jects by its long fleshy roots, which
it twines round any post or columa
within its reach, as other plants do
their tendrils. Though the most
glowing accounts had been received
of the splendour of the flowers of
the Renanthera in China, it did not
appear likely to realize these descrip-
tions in England; and it was culti-
vated in this country for above ten
years, before it formed a single
spike of flowers. At last the inge-
nious expedient was devised of
wrapping the long flexible roots
round with moss, and keeping this
moss constantly moist; and the re-
sult was, that the plant grew ten
feet long, and produced several
spikes, varying from two feet to
three feet in length, of brilliant scar-
let flowers. It is now generally
grown on pieces of wood with the
bark on, hung from the rafters near
a column of the stove, or orchideous
house, round which the long roots
are suffered to entwine themselves,
care being taken to wrap them in
moist moss as they elongate them-
selves; and it is found that the
plant flowers as freely as any other
Orchideous Epiphyte grown in Bri-
tain.

Rese‘pa. — Resedacea. — There
are many species of this genus,
most of which are natives of the
South of Europe and Egypt; but
those best known in England, are

RESERVE-GROUND.

346

RHAMNUS.

Res2da luatedla, the Dyer’s weed,
which is a British plant; and R.
odorata, for the culture of which, |
see MIGNIONETTE.
Reserve-Grounp.—In every gar- |
den accidents, diseases, and many
other causes, occasion blanks or
deformities in beds and borders, and |
the use of a reserve-ground is to.
contain a number of growing plants
that at a moment’s notice can be
taken up and planted in the place
of those which have ceased to be
ornamental or desirable.

Wher- |
ever there is a greenhouse, it can |
hardly be kept in high order without |

a reserve-grouad, including a pit,
| however small it may be, is essen-
tial to the keeping in high order of
every plot of garden-g -ground, even
those in front of street- houses, and
of every garden of plants in pots,
even those kept in window-sills and
balconies; secondly, that the re-
serve-ground must be in an open
airy situation, not shaded by trees ;
thirdly. that the herbaceous plants
planted in the open ground in the re-
| serve-garden, must be taken up with
balls of earth, and replanted twice
or thrice a year, and the shrubs
once a year; and fourthly, that

a pit or frame in the reserve-ground | where there is a choice of soil, that
for striking cuttings, and bringing of the reserve-ground should be of
forward plants to ‘supply the place | a loamy nature, such as will adhere
of those which are no longer orna-| to the roots of the plants, and never

mental in the greenhouse ; ‘and par- |
ticularly for forcing bulbs, and
bringing

alsams, Schizanthus, &c., which |
are exceedingly ornamental when |
in flower, but without showy foli-
age at every other season.

extent, must bear some relation to
the extent and the character of the
garden which it is intended to sup-
ply. The smallest residence should

have a few square yards of reserve- |
pit. in an open |
airy situation, but concealed from |
the ornamental parts of the grounds; |
and residences of twenty or thirty |

ground, including 2

acres in extent, will require several
pits,
an acre as reserve-ground. Where
there is a walled kitchen- garden,
the reserve-ground may very conve-
niently be placed adjoining the
frame or forcing-ground, or form
part of it; and in places so small
as to have no kitchen-garden, a
concealed glade, open to the south,
with or without asmall pit or frame,
will still be necessary. The grand
points respecting a reserve-ground,
which it is rable to impress on
an amateur gardener, are, first, that

forward annuals, such as/

The re- |
serve-ground, therefore, in point of |

and the sixth or fourth part of |

of sand, which will drop away from
them. Where there is no reserve-
garden, there is no possible way by
which even a street-garden, or the
pots on a window-sill, can be kept
always in the highest order, but by
having recourse to the commercial
gardener.
Rest-HAaRRow.—See Ono'nis.
Raa’unus.— Riramnicee.— The
Buckthorn. Handsome deciduous
and evergreen shrubs; some of
which almost attam the size and
appearance of small trees, and others
are procumbent shrubs only fitted
for rockwork. They are all how-
ever distinguished by a stiff upright
manner of growth, and numerous
strong thorns, from which they de-
rive their name of Buckthorn. The
flowers are generally small and not
ornamental, but the berries are very
much so; and the evergreen kinds
|are very valuable in shrubberies,
from their hardiness and free habit
of growth. The Alaternus (Riam-
nus alatérnus,) is particularly val-
uable, because it bears coal smoke,
and the confined air of towns better
than most other ev
Rhémnus cathérticus, the Purg-
ing Buckthorn, is a deciduous shrub

RHIPSALIS.

347

RHODANTHE.

with large handsome leaves and
showy berries. ‘These berries when
unripe are used for making a yellow
dye, and they are sold for this pur-
pose in the colour shops, under the
name of French berries ; when ripe,
their juice mixed with alum forms
what is called sapgreen; and if

all branches; for the whole plant
consists of a series of short round
articulated branches, spreading in
all directions. The flowers of this
genus differ from those of the Cacti
generally, in being small and not
very handsome. ‘They are general-
ly yellow. The species should all

they are suffered to hang on the | be grown in brick rubbish and sandy

trees till autumn, their juice be-
comes purple.
ries, also used in dyeing yellow, are
the fruit of R. infectorius, which is
a native of France, near Avignon.
R. saxatilis, the Stone Buckthorn,
which is a deciduous recumbent
species, is a valuable plant for rock-
work, or for clothing rocks or old
walls, where it is desirable to givea
wild and natural appearance to the
scenery; and R. erythroxylon, the
Red-wooded Buckthorn, is very or-
aamental as a tufted bush among
rocks near water. R. frdngula,
and R. latifolius, are low trees.
All the species are quite hardy, and
will grow in any common garden-
soil, and in any situation: that is
tolerably dry ; and they are all easi-
ly propagated by seeds and layers.
-Rue’x1a.— Melastom icee — Her-
baceous and shrubby plants, natives
of America. R. virginica, which
is the handsomest species, is quite
hardy im peat earth, in a moist

The Avignon ber- | little water.

loam, and they should have very
The cuttings must be
dried by laying them on a shelf for
two or three days before they are
planted.

Ruopa'ntHe. — Composite. —A
beautifal little annual plant, a na-
tive of the Swan River, whence its
seeds were imported by Captain
Mangles, who so well merits the
gratitude of every lover of flowers
for the numerous beautiful plants
which he has been the means of
introducing. The Rhodanthe is
generally treated as a half-hardy
annual, being sown on a hot-bed in
February and planted out in May;
but it may be grown to an enormous
size by the followmg treatment.
The seed must. be sown the first
week in April, in a soil composed
of three parts of heath-mould and
one of loam ; and the young plants
pricked out the first week in May
into small thumb pots or sixties,
filed with a similar soil In a

situation, and it produces its showy | week’s time they should be shifted

pink, or rather rose-coloured flow-
ers, with conspicuous yellow sta-
mens, in July and August. The
leaves are strongly ribbed as in all
the Melastomacere, and slightly
edged with pink. The shrubby
species are more tender than the
herbaceous ones, and they are gen-
erally kept in a greenhouse.
Rut'psais.—Cacte@.—Very cu-
rious succulent plants, which are
natives of both the East and West
Indies. As the Opuntias may be
said to be all leaves, and the dif-
ferent kinds of tree Cereus all stem,
so the Rhipsalis may be considered

into pots a size larger; they should
then be suffered to remain a fort-
night, after which they should again
be shifted into larger pots and the
blossom-buds pinched off. This
shifting may be repeated five or six
times, always pinching off the blos-
som-bnds, till the plant has attained
a large size and shrubby character,
which will generally be about the
middle of August, and when it may
be permitted to flower. A plant
which had been treated in this man-
ner, and which was given to me
by Captain Mangles, measured a
foot and a half high, and four feet

RHODODENDRON.

in circumference; it had above a |
thousand blossoms on it expanded |
splendid flowers; which are gene-
rally grown in sandy peat, kept

at one time ; and it continued pro-
ducing a succession of flowers from
August to the middle of November.
Ruopt'ois.—Crassuldcee.— Rose-
root. There are only two species of
this genus ; one of which is a British
plant, strongly resembling the House-
leek, with a thick fleshy root, smell-
ing so much like a Rose as to have
given the name to the genus. ‘The
flowers are yellow and terminal.
The plant is a perennial, and should
be grown in a moist situation on
rock-work.
Ruopocui'ton.—Scrophularinee.
R. volixbile, formerly called Lophos-
permum Rhodochiton, is a Mexican

climbing plant, with abundance of |

very handsome flowers. It was at
first kept in the greenhouse, but it
is now found to flourish most in the

348

open air, as it will not flower well |

when its roots are confined. It
should be planted in spring, in a pit
about two feet square, formed in the
open border, and filled with loamy
soil, enriched’ with leaf-mould or
rotten manure. As the plant grows,
a little leaf-mould may be added
from time to time over the roots;
and the plant must be trained up a
wire frame, or against a evuservative
wall. When ic nas done flowering,
it should be cut down to within a
few inches of the ground, and cover-
ed with tan or sawdust, and a pot
turned over it, the hole in the pot
being stopped up to exclude the rain;
or’what is better, the plant may be
wrapped in moss and thus protected.
The species is propagated by cut-
tings struck in spring or autumn, or
by seeds sown on a hot-bed in Febru-
ary and planted outin May. When
wanted for a balcony or greenhouse,
it may be grown in a pot, all that
need be attended to being to grow
the plant in good soil, and to allow
it plenty of reom for its roots.
RnopopE’NDRON. — Ericadcee. —

RHODODENDRON.

The Rose Bay. Well-known ever
green shrubs and low trees, with

rather moist. Though one of the
most common of the kinds, R. pon-
ticum, is a native of Asia Minor,
and others are natives of other parts
of Asia and of Europe, the greater
number of them being American,
the part of the garden in which they
are grown is generally called the
American ground. The Rhododen-
drons vary very much in size, as
well as in the colours of the flowers,
some being trees and others trailing
shrubs. The handsomest of the tree
kinds is the Nepaul species, R. ar-
boreum, which grows about twenty
feet high, with immense bunches of
dark scarlet or crimson flowers,
which have the rich hue of velvet.
These flowers secrete honey in such
abundance, that when the tree is
shaken the drops of liquid honey fall
from it like rain. ‘The leaves are
large, and silvery beneath. There
are several varieties, one of which
has wax-like white flowers, and
another cream-coloured flowers ;
others have the leaves rusty beneath.
Most of the tree Rhododendrons are
too tender to stand the winter in the

open air; but a rose-coloured variety

of R. arborea, and that with snow-
white flowers, are nearly hardy.
Besides the true tree Rhododendrons,
are some grown as standards, by
training a plant of R. pénticum, or
some other kind, to a single stem,
and then grafting it six or eight feet
from the ground, with some choice
sort. ‘The mode of doing this is to
destroy all the side shoots as soon
as they appear, and to rub off all
the side buds, till the main stem has
reached the required height. The
stock is then grafted or budded ; and
when the scion begins to grow, its
branches are suffered to hang down,
so as to form an umbrella-like head.
Some beautiful specimens of these

o- Shia .

RHODODENDRON. 349 RHODORA.

standard Rhododendrons, (as they | evergreen. It is very ornamental,
are called,) are exhibited every June, | and it is valuable from the early
in the King’s Road, Chelsea, by Mr. | season at which it flowers. All the
Waterer of the Bagshot and Kemp- | Rhododendrons are what are called
hill nurseries, who has them removed | hair-rooted plants; and they are all
from Bagshot to Chelsea, just as they | grown in sandy peat, or in deep
are coming into flower. Nothing can| sandy loam. They may also be
be more beautiful than this American | grown even in stiff clay, if it be
grove, which consists of Rhododen- | kept moist ; but the worst soil for
drons, Kalmias, and Azaleas of the | Rhododendrons is that of a well-
most beautiful hues ; some of the manured garden, particularly if the
Rhododendrons appearing almost situation be a dry one; as this kind
transparent from the brightness, and of soil has not tenacity enough to
yet delicacy of their tint. Of the enable it to adhere to the fine hair-
shrubby kinds, R. ponticum, which like roots of these plants. All the
is quite hardy, is the most common, Rhododendrons may be propagated
and the one that has produced the by cuttings of the young shoots,
greatest number of hybrids and va-_ taken off while they are in a grow-
rieties. R. maximum, in America, ing state—by layers, and by seeds.
attains the height of twelve or fifteen The latter is the most general mode,
feet, but in England it neither grows | as the seeds, which are very small,
nor flowers freely. ‘The leaves are and look like sawdust, are ripened
of a pale yellowish green, and they in great abundance in the months
generally look drooping asthoughthe of August and September; and the
plant wanted water. It is remark- seeds of the American kinds are
able that it was grown twenty years imported every year in large quan-
in England before it produced a tities from America. All the Rho-
single flower. In its native country dodendrons and Azaleas may be
it is always found growing upon | removed at almost any season, and
rocks near water; and it would when of almost any size, if taken
probably thrive in a similar situation up with a ball of earth round the
in this country. MR. catawbiénse is roots. The best seasons, however,
a hardy American species, which for removing them are spring and
flowers abundantly from June till) autumn. It may be observed that
August. It seldom grows above Rhododendron seed will remain good
four feet high, but it forms a healthy- | for several years, though, when prac-
looking bush, perfectly covered with | ticable, it is best to sow it as soon as
lowers. The hybrids between this it is ripe, as the plants will come up
species and the Nepaul tree Rhodo- | much sconer. All Rhododendrons
dendron are very handsome. The) should be grown in a shady, moist
principal dwarf species are, R. chry-| situation, and they will all thrive
sdnthum, with yellow flowers, R.| under the drip of trees.

Jerrugineum, and R. hirstitum,with| Ruopo'ra.—Ericdcee.—Rhodora
rose-coloured flowers, and R. cau-| canadénsis is a very pretty little
cdsicum, with purple or white flow-| plant, a native of Canada, resem-
ers. All these scarcely exceed a} bling the dwarf Rhododendrons,
foot in height, and some of gerd excepting that the flowers are much
are not more than six inches. smaller, and the leaves are decidu-
datricum flowers from eandeh ous. It is quite hardy, and only re-
till March, and the flowers of the | quires to be grown in peat earth,
species appear before the leaves, | kept moist. It flowers in the open
though there is a variety that is| ground, in April; but it may easily 3

30

RHUS.

be forced by keeping it under glass, |
and giving it a little heat, so as to |
flower at Christmas.
Ruav's.—Terebinthaéceea, or Ana-
cardiacee.— Sumach. Deciduous
shrubs, natives of Europe, Asia, and
America, interesting from the beau-
tiful colours which their leaves as-
sume in dying off in autumn.
the kinds are more or less poisonous.
Rhus Cotinus, the Virginian Su-
mach, is called the Periwig Tree
both in French and German, from
the curious appearance of its seed-

vessels, which look like a powdered |

wig. It is a very ornamental
shrub, often growing ten or twelve
feet high, and flowering abundant-
ly. It grows best in a dry loam,
and it is propagated by layers.
Rhus typhina, the Stag’s-horn Su-
mach, has received its name from
the singular appearance of the

young shoots, which are covered |

with a soft velvet-like down, resem-
bling that of a young stag’s horn,
both in colour and texture. The
leaves are impari-pinnate, with eight
or ten pairs of leaflets, and they die
off of a beautiful purplish red in au-
cumn. The flowers are produced
am terminal spikes, and they are suc-
ceeded by deep purplish-red woolly
fruit. Rhus giabra, the scarlet Su-
mach, has red flowers, and rich vel-

vet-looking dark-scarlet fruit, which |

becomes crimson as it ripens. Rhus
vernicifera, the Varnish or Japan
Sumach, is a greenhouse plant in
England, but in India, and in Ja-
pan, it is grown in large plantations,
for its gum, which issues from the
tree when wounded, and forms the
finest varnish in the world. Rhus
venendta, the Swamp Sumach, or
Poison-wood, has so virulent a sap
that it occasions fever and inflam-
mation in those who cut it down.
Even touching the plant, or smell-
ing it, will in many cases produce
eruptions and swellings all over the
body. The plant is not very hand-

All
the kinds of Rhus are of easy cul-

350

RIBES. |

some, but the leaves become of a
brillant red in autumn. R. coria-
ria, the elm-leaved Sumach, and R
copallina, the gum-copal tree, re-
semble R. typhina; and R. radi-
cans, the poison-oak, and R. toxico-
déndron, the poison-vine, are poison-
ous plants, natives of North Ameri-
ca, resembling R. venendta. All

ture in any loamy soil; and they
may be all propagated by cuttings
or layers. Several of the kinds may
have their branches pegged down,
and a little earth strewed over them,
when they will strike root.

Risson Grass—Arundo Doénaz,
var. versicolor.

Ri‘ses.—Grossuldcee.—The Cur-
rant. The ornamental kinds of
Ribes which have been introduced
into British gardens since the com-
mencement of the present century,
are now some of our most beautiful
shrubs. ‘They are all quite hardy,
and will grow without any trouble
being taken with them, in any com-
mon garden-soil. The following
kinds are those most deserving of
cultivation for their lowers :—Ribes
niveum, the snowy flowered goose-
berry, has white pendulous flowers,
and dark purple fruit, the flavour of
which is very agreeable; R. specio-
sum, the Fuchsia-flowered goose-
berry, the flowers of which are scar-
let, with very long projecting sta-
mens, somewhat resembling those
of the Fuchsia, and the leaves sub-
evergreen; KR. spicatum, the tree
currant, which forms an erect fas-
tigiate-growing shrub, six or eight
feet high, with upright spikes of red
fruit ; R. multiflorum, a most beau-
tiful plant, with long drooping ra-
cemes of greenish flowers, and large
handsome leaves; R. punctdtum,
an evergreen species, with shining
leaves and golden yellow flowers,
which are succeeded by red fruit ;
R. floridum, the flowering black
currant, with loose racemes of

$.

RIBES.

351

ROBINIA.

greenish-yellow flowers, and black | ness.

In its native country, also,

fruit; R. céreum, the wax-leaved | the Rtbes sanguineum always grows
currant, the leaves of which are | partly in the shade, and near water.
round, and appear thinly covered| The colour of the flowers varies

with white wax; R. sanguineum,
the red-flowered black currant, a
beautiful and well-known species,
of which there are several varieties ;
and R. aureum, the yellow-flowered
black currant. All these kinds are
very beautiful ; but the most orna-
mental are Ribes sanguineum, and

its varieties or allied species, R. |

Glutinésum, with pale pink flowers,
and R. malvdceum, with lilach ones,
and also the dark red variety, R. s.
atrortubens. There are also several
kinds of R. atireum, all of which
are well deserving of cultivation.
All the kinds of Ribes are easily
propagated by cuttings ; or by seeds,
which most of the kinds ripen in
abundance—and one kind, Ribes

punctatum, sends up suckers. They |

are generally quite hardy ; but R.

punctatum, being a native of Chili, |

succeeds best against a wall. R.
sanguineum, and its allied species,
are natives of California, and, like

all the plants from that country, |

they are very liable to die off, if the
collar of the root be exposed to the
sun. Thus, a fine healthy plant
of Ribes sanguineum, several feet

high, and covered with flowers, will |

often wither and die away without
any apparent cause ; but if the facts
connected with it be closely exam-
ined, it will generally be found that
the ground in which the plant grows

has become quite dry and powdery |

at the surface, so that the roots
have been exposed to sufficient heat
to wither them at the point of junc-
tion with the collar. This never
occurs when the plant is suffered to
remain in a state of nature, as it
always sends out side-shoots near
the ground, so as to shade its root ;
but in gardens and shrubberies these
side-shoots are frequently trimmed
away from a mistaken idea of neat-

| very much according to the soil in
which the plant is grown ; the dark.
est and brightest hues being observ-
able in those plants which are grown
|in calcareous soils, and the palest
and least brilliant in those grown in
sandy soils. Ribes aireum, the
_yellow-flowered currant, and its al-

lied species and varieties, succeed

best in gravelly soils, and appear in
| general very hardy. ae

Rice.—See Ory'za.

Ricua’rp1a.— Aroidee.— Kunth’s
name for Calla ethidpica. For the
culture, &c., see A‘RuM.

Rict'nus.—- Euphorbidcee.—Palme
| Christi. The Castor-oil plant, Ri-
cinus communis, is a half-hardy an-
nual in this country, worth growing
for its splendid leaves and very cu-
‘rious flowers and seed-pods; but in
the East Indies it becomes a tree.
| The oil is expressed from the seeds.
| When grown in England, the seeds
should be sown in a slight hotbed,
in February, and the young plants
removed to the open border m May.
It should be grown in light rich soil,
well manured with decayed leaves,
'and in a situation open to the san.

Rico\r1a.—Crucifera.— A very
pretty little annual, nearly allied to
Lunaria, which only requires sow-
ing in the open border in April.—
See ANNUALS.

Ripeinc.—Throwing up ground
in ridges, in order to expose it more
|thoroughly to the action of the
weather. This operation is most
useful in clayey soils, as the water
freezing separates the particles of
the clay, and lightens the soil; and
it is performed by opening a trench,
and throwing up the ground so as
to form a kind of hillock sloping on
both sides.

Rosi nra.— Leguminodse.—Orna- *
mental trees and shrubs, with long

ROBINIA. 352 ROCKWORK.

drooping racemes of flowers. The ‘two years before they germinate.
common kinds of Robinia are gener- | When grown in strong clay, or in
ally called Acacias in gardens; | any moist soil, old trees of Robinia
though why this name has been | Pseud-Acacia are very often found,
given to them, unless from their | when cut down, to be hollow at the
pinnate leaves, which resemble those | heart. Several plants formerly con-
of the true Acacia, it would be sidered to belong to Robinia, are
difficult to say. The name cf Lo- | now distributed through the genera
cust, which is applied to Robinia | Caragana, Halimodendron, &c. Of
Pseud-Acccia in America, also| these, the most beautiful are the
appears to have no definite mean- | Caraganas and the Halimodendron,

irg, unless it alludes to the leaves, |
which beara very slight resemblance |
to those of Ceratonia Siliqua, the |
Locust: Tree of Holy Writ. The

flowers of all the kinds of Ro-

binia are very handsome; but the |
arborescent species are not hand- |
some trees, from the liability of |
their branches to be broken off by |
nigh winds, which gives them a_|
ragged and untidy appearance ; and |
the wcod, notwithstanding the ex- |
travagant praises cf Cobbett, is of |
very little value. The roots of the
Robinia also extend just under the
surface ; and thus a tree of this ge-
nus occupies nearly twice the ex-
tent of ground which would be |
taken up by a tree of the same size |
cf almost any other kind. The
shrubby kinds of Robinia are also
liable to the same objections ; though |
the long racemes of rose-coloured |
fiowers of the Rose Acacia (R. hiés- |
pida) are so beautiful, that no shrub- |
bery should be without it. All the
Robinias are quite hardy, and they
may be grown in any soil, though |
they thrive most in a rather rich |
sandy loam; care should be taken

always to plant them in a sheltered |
situation, as no plants are more in- |
jured by high winds. They are |
propagated by seeds, layers, cut- |
tings, and suckers, which are pro- |
duced in great abundance. When |
Robinias are raised from seed, the
seeds should be steeped for twenty-
four hours in hot water, before sow-

or Salt Tree.

Rocket.—See He'speris.

Rock Cress.—A kind of A'rabis.

Rock Rosze.—See Cr'stus.

Rockwork is a very common or-
nament in gardens ; and, producing
a striking effect, it is introduced
more frequently than judiciously.
Rockwork may be divided into two
kinds: that which is intended to
imitate natural rocks, and that
which is intended merely as a nidus
for rock-plants. Imitations of na-

ture should always consist of large
| blocks of stone of the same kind,
-and should, for the most part, be

disposed in imitation of some kind
of stratification. At the same time,
as in many parts of the country,

large, round, or roundish, or angular
blocks of stone are found distributed

over the surface, it is not objection-
able to collect these together in
groups so as to form a feature in
scenery, and to insert plants among
them. Rockwork, as a mere nidus

_ for plants, should never be attempted
on a large scWe without the intro- -

duction of large blocks of stone,
and some kind of stratification be-
ing adopted; and in this case, as
before mentioned, using one kind
of stone will produce an effect in
accordance with that of nature.
On a small scale, however, different
kinds of stone may be used, more
especially when these are well coy-
ered with plants; but even on a
small scale, one kind of stone has

ing ; as, unless this is done, they | always a better effect, and will be
_ will sometimes remain in the soil! felt more agreeable to the eye, than

RODRIGUEZIA.

353

RONDELETIA.

a mixture of bricks, flints, pieces | Orchideous Epiphytes, natives of

of granite, freestones, and perhaps | tropical South America.

marble, shells, fragments of carved
stone, and even roots, which are
not unfrequently seen in even the
best gardens. Rockwork should
always be an independent feature.
It rarely looks well when piled up
against a wall, or around the roots
of a tree, or in any situation where
it is overshadowed by trees; in
short, where it does not form the
prominent feature in the scene.
looks well near water and merging
into it, or in an open airy garden,
where it is surrounded by a gravel-
walk ; but it does not look so well
when rising from turf, without an
adjoining walk, or when large shrubs
grow upamong the stones. Where
there are collections of such plants
as Saxifrages or other alpines, or
of Cistuses, Helianthemums, or other
mountain shrubs, rockwork is very
desirable ; and in such cases it may
be placed on a lawn, as a feature in
a general collection of herbaceous
plants or shrubs arranged according
to the natural system; but rock-
work as an ornamental object, or as
a nidus for a miscellaneous collec-
tion of plants, should always be in
an open airy situation, near a pond,
or surrounded by a walk. In short,
it may be laid down as a general
principle that reckwork should either
adjoin gravel or a piece of water;
and that it should seldom or never
adjoin trees or grass, or walls or
buildings.

One of the most common faults
in rockwork is the indiscriminate
mixture together of all sorts of
stones, bricks, shells, fragments of
statuary or sculpture, and even
roots of trees; which latter object,
though very suitable as receptacles
_ for plants, should always be ar-
sanged in masses, apart from any
intermixture of stones——See Roor-
WoRK.

RopriguEe za. — Orchidacee. —
30*

It |

R. se-
cunda has beautiful pink flowers ;
but the other species have generally
drooping racemes of greenish-yellow
flowers, more graceful than _posi-
tively beautiful. All the kinds
should be grown in moss, and they
all succeed better on wood than in
pots.—See Orcut’peous Epi'puyTes.

Roe'tia. — Campanuldcee. —
Cape plants, generally with blue
flowers, which have somewhat of
the dazzling glossy hue of Venus’s
Locking-glass: The shrubby kinds
are of low growth, and rather diffi-
cult to propagate; but the annual
species are of very easy culture,
and only require the usual treat-

ment of half-hardy annuals.—See

ANNUALS.

Rane'r1s.— Papaveracee.— The
Purple Horned-Poppy. This is a
very beautiful flower; but, unfortu-
nately, its beauty is so very short-
lived that it is difficult to find a
perfect flower, as one or two of its
petals drop almost as soon as the
flower expands. It is quite hardy,
and only requires to have its seeds
sown in the open border in April.

Rouiinc.—Gravel walks cannot
be kept in proper order without fre-
quent rolling; and this rolling is
most efficacious when the ground is
moist below, but the upper surface
is dry. On this account the best
time for rolling is a fine dry day
after two or three days’ rams, and
when rolling is necessary in con-
tmued dry weather, the walk should
be previously watered. Turf should
also be rolled occasionally, to pre-
vent its surface from becoming un-
even.

RonpbE.Le t14.—- Rubidcee.—Beau-
tiful stove plants, with white, blue,
er reddish flowers, natives of the
East and West Indies. R. odorata,
which is the most common, has
terminal corymbs of scarlet flowers
greatly resembling those of Izora

ROOTWORK.

coccinea. It should be grown ina
moist stove, in peat, sand, and !cam,

the pots being well drained with |

petsherds and cinders. ‘The flowers
are produced in great abundance,
and they are very fragrant as well
as beautiful.

Rootrworx.—The roots of trees,
and especially large roots, including
the stool, or base of the tree after
the trunk has been cut down to the

ground, may be combined together |

in various ways useful, ornamental,

or curious, in gardening. ‘Two or |

three large stools of trees grouped
together on a lawn with mould and
plants placed in their interstices,
form a striking contrast to the

smoothness and high art displayed |

on the general surface of the lawn.
The plants placed among the roots,
whether in pots concealed by

mosses, stones, or mould, or planted |

in soil, should never be of indige-
nous kinds common in the locality;

fer these might be mistaken for |

weeds ; but of exotic kinds, such as

Geraniums, Petunias, Maurandyas, |
&c., or of British or European |

alpines of small size, neat foliage,
and brilliant flowers.
be kept in view is, that of creating
artificial ornaments without much

expense; and therefore, the roots |
must never appear to have been |

left where they are by carelessness
or accident, but placed by design,
and with reference to the compo-
sition of which they form a part.
In many situations, conglomera-
tions of roots as a receptacle for
plants are more pleasing than con-
glomerations of stones, because they
display less effort, and seem a more
natural and easy way of obtaining
a nidus for ornamental plants. Too
much effort and expense for attain-
ing any object is never altogether
so satisfactory, as when the same
object is obtained with ease and
economy. Hence rustic seats in a

354

The idea to |

ROOTWORK.

|

other vessels for containing plants,
are more Satisfactory than cast-iron
seats or marble vases, unless indeed
the latter are connected with some
building.

Roots may also be combined to-
gether so as to form seats, open or
covered huts, grotto-like structures,

and grotesque bridges; and one ob-
_ject for which they are particulariy
| suitable is for placing on the. margin
of pieces of artificial water along
'with trees, bushes, or plants. A
smooth expanse of water, like a
smooth lawn, requires shade and
roughness to contrast with it, in
order to produce a striking effect ;
and roots at once supply both rough-
ness and shade. In placing them,
a part of the root should always be
covered by the water, and another
part by the soil; and by planting a
young tree or bush adjoining the
root, a double contrast is produced
between the root, which gives the
idea of an aged tree long since felled
or dead, and the erect young shoot
which foretells a future tree. The
shadow of the group so formed in
the water is a circumstance that
redoubles the interest.

Roots may be piled up, and con-
nected together by wooden pegs,
so as to form arches, arcades, or
covered ways, or grottoes, or other
structures for shelter or repose; the
| interstices being filled in with moss
or heath, and the exterior being
thatched with heath, or the chips or
shavings from hoops common in
countries which abound in coppice-
wood, such as Sussex. Roots also
_may be piled up so as to form gro-
_tesque fences, which are suitable
| for certain situations and purposes.
A flower garden in a wood or se-
questered glen, surrounded by a
fence of this kind, has sometimes a
striking effect; and sometimes the
area of gravel before the entrance
front of a villa is separated from the

pleasure-ground, and rustic vases, or | awn by an irregular ridge of roots

~

ROSA.
varied by greenhouse plants with
the pots concealed.

A very common error in the use
of roots, is that of mixing them
with stones in rockwork, which has
been already pointed out.—See
Rockwork.

Rosa. — Rosdcee.— The Rose-
tree. Of all flowers none are more
beautiful than roses ; and none bet-
ter reward the care of the cultivator.
Roses are natives of Europe, Asia,
Africa, and America, but none have
yet been found in Australia. The
number of roses is almost incredible,
above a hundred distinct species
have been described, and there are
above two thousand named varie-
ties to be procured in the nurseries.
In this chaos, all that can be done
in a work like the present is to give
a slight sketch of the different kinds
of roses grown in British gardens,
with a few particulars of the more
remarkable species. The best
known and most common kind of
rose is the cabbage or Provence
rose (Rosa centifolia). This spe-
cies is a native of Eastern Cauca-
sus, whence it was brought at a
very early period. ‘There are more
than a hundred varieties of it; all
very beautiful and very fragrant,
and all distinguished by their close
cabbage-like form, the curving in-
wards of their petals, and their
slender footstalks, which give a pe-
culiarly graceful and drooping ap-
pearance to the full-blown flowers.
The Moss Roses are all varieties of
the cabbage. All the cabbage roses
may be grafted standard high on
briers of the common dog rose ; and
they all require a richly manured
soil, and an open situation. The
French or Provins rose (Rosa gal-
lica) is a compact erect-growing
plant with large open flat flowers
borne on stiff erect flower-stalks ;
thus forming as strong a contrast as
possible to the cabbage rose. This
rose is found wild in France, and it

*

355

ROSA.

is grown on a large scale near the
little town of Provins in the depart.
ment of the Seine-et-Marne, and
also at Fontenay-aux-Roses near
Paris, for the purpose of making
conserve of roses. There are more
than a hundred varieties of this
rose. ‘The French roses do not re-
quire a rich soil, and they are never
grown as standards. Rosa damas-
céna, or the perpetual rose, differs
from R. centifolia, in the large size
of its prickles, the greenness of its
bark, its elongated fruit, and its
long reflexed sepals. There are
above a hundred varieties of these
roses, the most beautiful of which
is Lee’s Perpetual or the Rose du
Roi. ‘These roses are very fragrant,
and they continue blossoming till
November. As the perpetual roses
are of very luxuriant growth, and
as they produce abundance of flow-
ers, they should be grown in very
rich soil, and their shoots not cut
in. Rosa indica, the Chinese or
monthly rose, is the parent of an-
other large family of roses, com-
prising upwards of two hundred va-
rieties and hybrids; the most in-
teresting of these are the tea-scented
roses, and the Noisettes. The tea-
scented roses are delicate little
plants, with large drooping flowers,
and they are supposed to be hybrids
between the common and the yel-
low Chinese roses; it is generally
considered that they are rather ten-
der, and that they should be grown
against a south wall in a raised
border composed of equal parts of
vegetable mould, light loam, and
sand, but we have one against the
veranda of our house at Bayswater,
grafted on a common brier; and
growing in the ordinary garden soil,
which is splendid. Many cultiva-
tors take these roses up in Novem-
ber, and keep the roots in a pot in
a greenhouse, or laid in mould in a
shed, till spring, when they may be
planted out again into the open gar-

&

=,

&

—

ROSA.

356

ROSA.

den. The Noisettes are supposed | ing bank covered with these Roses
to arise from a hybrid between the |

Chinese Rose and the Musk Rose,

Charleston in North America. This
kind of rose is very hardy, and a
most abundant flowerer, sixty or
eighty flowers having been produced
in one cluster; it is admirably
adapted for standards and for rose

pillars. ‘There are nearly a hun- |
dred different kinds of Noisette |
roses.

The climbing Roses are of four
different kinds; the Ayrshire, the

evergreen, the cluster-flowered, and |

the Boursault. he Ayrshire climb-
ing Roses are all varieties of R.
arvensis, a trailing plant, which,
when left on the ground, in moist
places, will throw out roots at every

joint; but they are climbers by |

elongation, stretching themselves
upward through a mass of hedges

and bushes, and covering them with |

flowers. The branches are in gen-
eral slender and feeble; and where

they have no support, they are apt |
to become entangled with each |

other. All the Ayrshire Roses grow
vigorously, sometimes making shoots
twenty feet long in one season.
The evergreen Rose (R. sempér-
virens) is a native of the south of
Europe, greatly
Ayrshire Rose in its flowers, but
differing in its leaves, which are
smooth, leathery, and evergreen.
The evergreen Roses do not make
such vigorous shoots as the Ayr-
shire Roses, and consequently are
not so valuable as climbers; but
they are much more so as under-
growth, for covering the ground in
shrubberies, as they grow and flow-
er freely under the drip of trees.
When thus trained, the shoots
should be spread over the ground
they are intended to cover, and
pegged down near a joint, which
will throw out roots, and the plant
will thus grow vigorously. A slop-

resembling the |

'has a most beautiful effect.
raised by M. Philip Noisette at |

ards of the common Dog

in front of a breakfast-room window
They
also look well grafted on low stand-
Rose, as
the shoots will descend all round
and form a cone or pyramid of
Roses. The many or cluster flow-
ered Rose (R. multiflora) is a beau-
tiful plant, bearing large clusters of
Roses; sometimes of more than
fifty Roses in one cluster. More
than three thousand Roses have
been counted on a plant of this spe-
cies at onetime. The sevensisters’
Rose (R. m. Grevillei) is a variety
of this species. The Boursault
Rose is generally considered by
Botanists to be another variety of
R. multiflora, but it differs from
that species in several important
particulars. It is a hard-wooded
durable Rose, producing abundance
of flowers, and growing freely; the
shoots, which are of a purplish red,
and almost without thorns, being
often fifteen feet long in one season.
The flowers appear very early, and
are remarkable for their reticulated
petals. Allthese Roses may be made
to form beautiful objects on a lawn
by training them up parasol-wires,
which may be purchased at any
ironmonger’s, or up a pyramid. The
latter may be made either of iron
rods and wire, or of three pieces of
wood, with holes bored in them at
regular distances, through which
narrow laths may be passed. It is
useful to put a ball and spike on
the top of this figure, to prevent
birds from settling on it, which they
would be very apt to do, and would
dirty the flowers and foliage be-
neath. Climbing Roses may also
be trained over trellis-work, or up
the trunks of trees; in which last
case they should be allowed to
climb through the head of the tree,
and to hang down from the branches
in wild and graceful festoons.

Musk Roses (Rosa moschata,)

op.
wis

ROSA. 357 ROSA.

form another family of Roses, though | posure rather than a southern one ;
not a numerous one, as there are | and the shoots should never be cut
not above ten ortwelve kinds; they|in. This Rose, in fact, does not
have very long slender branches, | require any pruning, except what
which being too weak to support} may be necessary to remove the
alone their large bunches of flowers, | dead wood; or to train the plant
should be trained against a wall.| into shape, though the latter should
These Roses never require pruning be avoided as much as possible, as
(except to cut out the dead wood), | all wounds on this Rose are apt to
as the flowers are only produced at | produce canker. It is said to flow-
the extremity of the shoots. The ;er freely when grafted on the musk
Banksian Roses (R. Banksie),| cluster at eight or ten feet from the
which are of two kinds, one with! ground, or on the common China
buff flowers and the other with| Rose; but I have never seen the
white; the Macartney Roses (R.| experiment tried. The most beau-
bracteata and R. microphy'ila) and | tiful yellow Roses I ever saw were
some others, are natives of China, | in the neighbourhood of Worcester,
and rather tender in England, re-| where the plant had grown in a
quiring to be trained against a wall, | border in front of a south-eastern
and to receive a little | protection in| wall, and had been paftly trained
severe winters. R. Alpina, the| against it; though for some time
Alpine Rose, of which there are a| before I saw it, probably two or
great number of varieties; R. lu- three years, it had evidently been
téscens, the yellow American Rose; left entirely to Nature. A plant,
and R. spinosissima, the Scotch supposed to be the single state of
Rose, of which there are almost in- | this Rose, was imported about 1835,
numerable varieties, are hardy, early- | by Sir Henry Willich, from Persia,
flowering Roses, that will grow in| and flowered for the first time in
almost any soil or situation. R.| England in the garden of the Lon-
sulphirea, the double yellow Rose, | don Horticultural Society, in the
is, however, more difficult to man- | summer of 1840.

age. This beautiful Rose, which|* There are many other Roses not
till lately was only known in a_ included in the foregoing enumera-
double state, has large drooping tion ; the best known of which are
flowers, shaped like those of the the white Rose, Rosa dlba, with its
common Cabbage Rose, and is sup- numerous varieties ; the yellow Aus-
posed to be a native of Persia. In trian Rose, R. hitea, which has the
some situations it grows freely; ‘petals scarlet above ‘and yellow be-
but in others the flower-buds burst neath; the Sweet Brier or Eglan-
on one side, when only half formed, | tine, R. rubigndsa, with its very
and the flowers are thus imperfect. numerous varieties; the common
It should be grown in an open airy Dog Rose, or brier, R. canina,
situation, in a light free soil, and it; which is common in the hedges in
should have abundance of light and | England, and its multitude of varie-
air. It should be well supplied with ties ; the ever-flowering dark-crim-
water during the flowering season, | son Chinese Rose, R. semperflérens,
but the ground in which it grows | and the Fairy Rose, R. Lawrence-
should be so well drained as never | dna. 'To these may be added the
to allow the water to remain in a} Isle of Bourbon Roses, R. Bourbon-
stagnant state about the roots.| idna, the origin of which is uncer-
When trained against a wall, it| tain; but which are generally sup-
should have a north or eastern ex-| posed to be hybrids between the

>’

ROSA.
common China Monthly Rose (R.
indica,) and the Rose a-quatre-sai-
sons (R. Damascéna). The Bour-
bon Roses are very beautiful ; they
are large and rather flat, with rich
velvet-like petals much darker in-
side the flower than on the outside.
They flower in autumn, and they
grow best in dry sandy soils, unless
they are grafted standard high on
the Dog Rose, when they should
be manured like other standard
Roses.

All Roses require a rich and free
soil, and plenty of pure air. They
are not so particular with respect to
light, as they will flower beautifully
im situations which are shaded, at
least during part of the day; and
in fact, appear to prefer partial
shade to constant exposure to the
sun. Coal-smoke is very injurious
to them. Roses are frequently
planted in Rose-gardens, or Rosari-
ums, in which each kind of Rose is
contrived to fill a separate bed, and
these beds are arranged so as to
form a regular figure like a geomet-
ric flower-garden.
lars of Roses are formed by twining
the climbing kinds against frame-
work ; or they may be trained over

arcades, or so as to form baskets. |

The Rose is generally propagated

by budding or grafting the finer |

kinds on the common brier, or by
layers.
raised from seed; and the dwarf
kinds are propagated by cuttings,

most of the leaves of which should |
Roses |

be left on (see fig. 47).
should be generally planted in au-
turn ; but some of the more tender
Chinese and Musk Roses may be
planted in spring. A pit should be
dug about two feet square every

358

Pyramids or pil- |

New varieties are also |

ooo

ROSA.

'should be taken up, their roots short-
ened, and replanted in fresh soil, the

SN NY i,
FY

DAN

Fig. 47.—Rose Cutting, ready for planting ;
the dotted line showing the ground.

old soil being removed; and every
year, in March, about hal a_bar-
rowful of rotten manure should be
laid on the surface of the ground,
round the stem of the tree, and
spread out so as to cover the roots ;
the unpleasant appearance of the
/manure, being concealed by cover-
ing it with turf or stones. The
pruning of Roses is a subject on
which there are many different
‘opinions, and Roses are generally

March, so as not to leave more than
three or four. buds on each shoot.
An opinion, however, appears to be
gaining ground among gardeners,
that this pruning has been carried
too far, and that many kinds, par-
ticularly all the climbing Roses,
ought not to be pruned at all. Ro-
ses are so easily forced, that, with a

.
cut in every year in October or”

way, and half filled with very rotten | very little trouble, they may be had
manure or vegetable mould mixed | in flower every month in the year.
with an equal portion of pit-sand ;| For instance, some Moss Roses may
or if the soil be naturally sandy,| be taken up as soon as they have
with equal parts of sand and loam. | done flowering, and haying been put
Every fifth or sixth year, the Roses | tie pots and pruned, they may be

“?

ad

ROSA.

kept in a shady situation in the open
air till wanted for forcing. Those
that are wanted to blossom at
Christmas, should be plunged into
a hotbed, or put into a hothouse the
lst of October ; those put into the
hothouse in November will flower
in January and February ; and so
on, always calculating that the
plants will flower about two months
after they are placed in the hot- |
house or frame. During the forcing
they should be supplied abundantly
with water of the same temperature
as the house in which they are |
kept. and the heat they are kept |
in should never be less than 60° at |
night. The China Rose may be
made to flower all the winter by |
keeping it in a greenhouse at 50°, |
and having pinched off all its flow-
er-buds in summer and autumn.
The insects that attack Rose trees |
are very numerous. Perhaps the
most troublesome are the Aphides |
(see Apnis), which cover the ten-
der shoots in summer and autumn. |
The caterpillars of several small |
moths are also very destructive to |
Rose trees. One of these, which |
is called a leaf-miner, lives within |
the leaf, where it feeds upon the
pulpy matter, leaving traces of its |
course by a number of pale yellow |
zigzag lines, which are occasioned |
by the skin of the leaf withering |
when deprived of the pulpy matter
which sepported it. The perfect
insect is called: the Red-headed
Moth (Microsétia - ruficapitélla) ; |

- and it is so small, that even wah

its wings expanded it does not
measure more than a quarter of an
inch. Another very destructive in-
sect is the maggot or grub of one
of the saw-flies. The perfect in-
sect, which is a beautiful creature,
with transparent wings, lays its eggs
in the flower-bud; and in this the

~ grub is hatched, eating its way out

and destroying the petals that it
passes through. Other mena: ig

399

ROSE ACACIA.

a kind of leaf-rollers, not exactly
like those that infest the oak, but a
species of the genus Lyda (belong-
ing to the Tenthredinide), which
construct a portable case in which
they enfold themselves, of pieces
of leaves, which they cut out and
fasten together in a spiral direction.
Besides, there is the Rose Moth, a
species of Tortrix, which fastens the
bud, by a number of slender threads,
to one of the leaves, which it doubles
up like the folds of a fan.

The only sure remedies for all
these insects are hand-picking and
frequent syringing. ‘Tobacco-wa-
ter is also used; and this is made
by pouring a gallon of boiling water
on half a pound of the best shag
tobacco, and letting the decoction
remain till it is cold. ‘The infected

' shoots should then be dipped in the

tobacco-water, and suffered to re-

| main in it about a minute, and then

washed with clean water. If the
tebacco-water be suffered to dry on
the plants, it will blacken the young
shoots; and the remedy will thus
be worse than the disease. Lime-
water is also sometimes used, but
no more lime should be put in-
to the water than to make it
look slightly milky ; and the leaves
should be washed after it has been
suffered to remain on a short time.
A strong decoction of quassia is
another remedy ; and it is better
than either lime or tobacco-water,
as it does not injure the appearance
of the plants. Dipping the shoots
in clean water, and laying them on
in one hand, while a soft brush is
gently passed over them with the
other, is also found very efficacious

Rosco‘ra.—Scitaminee.—Hand-
some stove-plants, somewhat resem-
bling the Indian Shot. They should
be grown in loam, peat, and sand*
and they are increased by dividing
the root.

Rose.—See Ro'sa.

Rose Acacia.—Robinia hispida

~-

+

ROTATION OF CROPS. 360

ROT-HEAP.

_—_—

—A very handsome shrub, with
pinnate leaves, and long drooping
racemes of rose-coloured flowers.
It will grow in any soil, but it should
be placed in a sheltered situation,
on account of the brittleness of its
branches, and their liability to be
broken off by high winds.—See
Ropsi'nia.

Rose Bay.—See Ruopops/NDRON
and Ne‘rium.

Rose Campion.—Agrostémma.—
The very pretty flowers known by
this English name are included by
many botanists in the genus Lych-
nis. Many of the kinds are an-
nuals ; but the common Rose Cam-
pion, A. coronaria, is a perennial.

Rosemary.—See Rosmari'nus.

Rose or Hraven.—Agrostemma
or Ly'chnis Celi Rosa, an orna-
mental annual from the Levant,
quite hardy in British gardens.

Rose or Jericso.—Anastiatica
hierochuntina.—A cruciferous an-
nual from the Levant, of no beauty,
but curious from the manner in
which its branches curl round the
seeds when they are ripe. The end
of the shoot containing the seeds
thus protected, falls off, and is
blown by the wind from place to
place, without discharging the seeds,
so long as it is dry; but as soon as
the ball reaches a moist place, where
the seeds can germinate, the pro-
tecting branches relax, and the seed
drops out.

Rose or Suaron.—NSee Hini'scus.

Rose-roor.—See Ruopr‘oa.

Rosmarinus. — Labidte. — The
Rosemary, R. officinalis, is a well-
known shrub, which will thrive in
any sheltered situation, but which
is liable to be injured by frost in se-
vere winters. It will grow in any
common garden-soil; and it is
propagated by cuttings, planted in
spring.

Rotation or Crops.—It has been
found by a series of experiments
that the same kind of annual plant

i."

should never be grown for more
than two years in succession in the
same ground, without manuring or
renewing the soil; as plants either
throw out a quantity of excremen-
titious matter, which they will not
reimbibe, or exhaust the soil of all
those properties which are nourish-
ing for them. The ground, how-
ever, which thus becomes unfit for
one kind of plant, is found to be
suitable for another kind quite dif-
ferent ; and the making these plants
succeed each other in a proper man-
ner is called the rotation of crops.
Perennial plants, and trees and
shrubs, are not so liable to injury
from their poisoning the soil, as they
elongate their roots every year, so
as to have their spongioles always
in fresh soil ; but some shrubs, such
as Roses, which never have long
roots, should either be transplanted
every third or fourth year, or have
manure laid on the surface of the
soil, to supply them with fresh food.

tOT-HEAP is a heap composed of
sand, and such fruit as haws, holly-
berries, ashkeys, hornbeam-nuts,
and similar seed-vessels, which is
turned over several times in the
course of the winter, to promote
the decomposition of the exterior
covering of the seed. The object
is to save room in the nursery, be-

cause these seeds, and others, if _

sown before the flesh or exterior
covering is rotted off, will lie dor-
mant in the soil for a year; where-
as, by rotting it off and sowing the
seeds in the spring of the second
year after which they are gathered,
they come up the following May or
June. The rot-heap is kept in what
is called the rotting-ground, which
may be in any open situation fully
exposed to the weather. ‘The heaps
may be one or two feet in thickness,
and of any convenient width, the —
object being to produce decay with-
out inducing such an active fer-
mentation as would generate suffi-

" ¥

rs

RUDZSECKIA.

1

cient heat to destroy the vital prin-
ciple in the seeds.

RussBiss—such as broken bricks,
stones, remains of old walls, &c.—
is of great use for laying at the-
bottom of a flower-bed or border in
an open garden in which bulbs are
to be grown. A similar bed has also
been found very useful for growing
Dahlias, as they are very liable to
be injured by stagnant moisture.

Ro‘z1a.— Rubidcee.—The Mad-
der. The perennial species, which
are not remarkable for their beauty,
are quite hardy, and will grow in
any soil. There are also some half-
hardy shrubs, which are worth cul-
tivating in a greenhouse for their
flowers, which are generally yellow.
A red dye is derived from the roots
of all the species, but principally
from those of R. tinctdrium, which
is cultivated as a field-plant in the
south of Europe.

Ru‘sus.—Rosacee.—The Bram-
ble. There are but few ornamental
species of this very extensive genus.
R. odordtus, the flowering Rasp-
berry, with reddish flowers, and R.
nootkanus, the Nootka Sound Brain-
ble, with large white flowers, both
kinds being sweet-scented, are the
mostornamental ‘To these may be
added the double-flowered common
Bramble (R_ fruticdsus, var. pom-
ponius) and R. spectabilis, the Cali-
fornian Bramble, with fragrant dark |
purple flowers, and dark yellow fruit.
All the Brambles are very hardy,
but very short-lived ; their stems
dying down every second year, like
those of the common Raspberry
(Ribus ide‘us). They all send up
numerous suckers, by which they
are propagated ; and they all delight
in a moist soil and shaded situation;
though they will not thrive exactly
under the drip of trees.

Rupse’cKx1a.—Composite.—Very
showy perennial, biennial, and an-
nual plants, which should be grown
in light rich soil. They attain a

31 P

361

SABAL.

very large size, and are therefore
only suitable to large gardens. They
are all hardy, and of the easiest cul-
ture of their respective kinds.

Rue.—See Ro‘ra.

Rue’tuia.— Acanthicee. — Her-
baceous plants with pretty tube-
shaped blue flowers. Some of the
species require a stove, and others
a greenhouse ; but they should all
be grown in light rich soil, and are
propagated by cuttings.

Ru’mex.—Polygéneze.—The Dock.
Most of the species are British weeds,
but some few are grown for their
flowers. ‘They like a very deep and
rich soil.

Ru'scus. — Smilacinee. — The
Butcher’s Broom. Very curious
evergreen shrubs, mest of which
bear their flowers and fruit on their
leaves. All the species prefer shady
situations under the drip of trees,
where but few other plants will grow;
and they are all readily increased by
suckers from their roots, which they
throw up in abundance. One of the
kinds is sometimes called the Alex-
andrian Laurel.

Russe'L1a. — Scrophularinee. —
R. juncea is a very elegant stove-
plant, with slender rush-like bran-
ches, and scarlet tube-like flowers.
It should be grown in light rich soil,
and abundantly supplied with water
while in a growing state. It is pro-
pagated by cuttings, struck in heat.

Rou'va.—_ Rutacee.—The Rue. R.
gravéolensis a well-known glaucous-
leaved plant, having a very unplea-
sant smell, and a bitter taste. ‘he
leaves are nearly blue, and from
their peculiar colour sometimes pro-
duce a good effect in a shrubbery.
The flowers are yellowish. The
plant will grow in any soil or situ-
ation.

S.
Sa‘sAn. -Palme.—The Palmetto,

or American Palm. These Palin-
trees, which are natives of tropical

-

SAINT JOHN’S WORT.

362

*

i

SALIX.

America, require a stove in England,
and they should be grown in light
loamy soil. They are increased by
suckers, which they send up freely.
They are all of dwarf stature, and

grow freelyin a somewhat moist heat. |

Sa'ccnarum. — Graminee.—The
Sugar-cane grows freely in England,
if kept in a stove in a very rich
loamy soil. It may be increased by
suckers; or if a part of the stem be
laid in a trench in the tan-pit, or in
rich loam, where it has bottom-heat,

it will form plants at every joint.
Saccoia‘srium. — Orchidacea.—
East Indian Orchideous Epiphytes,
which should be grown on wood, but
which are not very handsome, unless
very closely examined. For their
culture, see Orcuiprous Epipuy Tes.
Sacrep Bean or Inpia.— See
NeELv’ MBIuM.
Sarrron.—Crocus Sativa.—See
Crocus.
Sace.—See Sa’iyvia.
Saeirra‘r1a.— Alismacee. —Waz- |
ter plants, some of which require a
stove, others a greenhouse, and
others are quite hardy. They should
all be grown in loamy soil, with their
stems in water; and they are in-
creased by seeds or dividing the roots. |
Saco Patm.—See Sa'cus. |
Sa‘cus.— Palmeea.— A kind of |
Palm, from the pith of the stem of |
which Sago is made. The plants |
should be grown in sandy loam, and |
they should be exposed to a strong
moist heat. The seeds are produced
in a sort of cone, which is of a bril-
liant shining brown, and very hand-
some ; but the plant has never yet
produced seeds in this country.
Saint Acnes’s Flower. — The
Snow Flake—See Leuco‘sum.
Sat Barnasy’s Tutstte.—Cen-
tauréa solstitialis.
SainTFoin.—See Onosry'cuis.
Saint Jown’s Breap.—See Cr-
RATO'NIA.
Saunt Jonn’s Wort.—See Hy-
PE RICUM.

42

Saint Marrin’s Flower. — Al-
arene Flos Martini.

Aint Perer’s Wort.—The Snow
Berry.—Sce Sympno’zta.

Sarica‘r1aA.—See Ly’rHRum.

Saico’rnja.—Chenopodidcee. —
Glasswort. Succulent British plants,
which grow naturally by the sea-
shore. When cultivated, they should
be grown in silver-sand, and a little
salt laid occasionally on the surface
of the soil, so as to be washed in by
watering or rain. One of the kinds
is sometimes eaten as a culinary
vegetable, under the name of Marsh
Samphire.

SaLissu‘R1A. — Amentdcee@, or
Taxicee.—This very remarkable
plant was originally called Ginkgo
biloba, Ginkgo being its name in
Japan. Its name has, however,
now been altered to the more eupho-
nious one of Salisbiria adiantifolia,
the leaves resembling in form that
of the Maiden-hair Fern, the botanic
name of which is Adianium. As
the Salisburia grows to a very large
size, and as there are specimens in
the neighbourhood of London above
sixty feet high, it would not have
been mentioned here, had it not been
very ornamental when young. The
tree has flowered at Kew and at
other places ; but it has never borne
fruit in England, though it has in
France.

Sa‘~ix.—Amentdcee or Salica-
cee.—The Willow. A very exten-
sive genus of ligneous plants, vary-
ing in size from the tree Willow, of
seventy or eighty feet high, to the
creeping half-herbaceous kinds call-
ed S. herbacea, S. vaccinifolia, &c
Of these S. herbacee creeps so close
to the ground that it forms on the
Swiss mountains a kind of turf, not
rising more than an inch above the
surface of the ground, and yet
forming, when closely examined, a
complete miniature tree. All the
kinds of Willow grow best in moist
soil, or near water; and they all

ay

=

SALPIGLOSSIS.

®

363

SALVIA.

grow in such situations very rapidly.
The Weeping Willow (Saliz Baby-
lonica) has been known to grow
twenty feet high in ten years, and
the other species to increase in a_
similar proportion. All the com- /
mon Weeping Willows grown in|
England are female plants, and it
is supposed that the kind imported
from St. Helena, and called Napo- |
leon’s Weeping Willow, is the male |
plant. Of the tall shrubby kinds |
of Willow, Salix capre‘a, the great |
round-leaved Sallow, or Grey Withy, |
is perhaps the handsomest; and it |
is the flowering branches ‘of this |
species that are called Palms in the |
neighbourhood of London, and are_
gathered by children on Easter
Sunday. The Willow will grow in |
any soil which is not too dry; and
it is propagated by cuttings, which
strike root when merely put into)
the ground, without any other trouble |
being taken with them.
Sattow.— A kind of Willow, |
with roundish shaggy leaves.
Saupicio’ssis. — Solandcee or
Scrophularinee. — Very beautiful |
half-hardy. annual plants, natives
of Chili. The seeds should be sown |
in February on a slight hotbed ;
and the young plants should be
planted out in May. Thesoil should |
be loam mixed with one-third of.
peat or sand; and the situation |
should be sheltered, and partially |
shaded; as, if the collar of the plant |

come partially woody, like the Mig-
nionette. There are many different
kinds, which are made species by
some botanists, but which are now.
generally allowed to be only varie-—
ties. Many gardeners sow the seeds
in autumn, and keep the plants in
frames all the winter, that they may
flower early in spring.
Saso'La.— Chenopodacee.—-Salt-
wort. Annual and biennial suc-
culent plants which grow wild on
the sea-coast in Britain, and which
are sometimes cultivated for their
curiously-shaped round stems. Soda
is made from one of the species.
SaLt-TREE. — See Ha imope'n-
DRON.
SaLt-wort.—See Satso‘na.
Sa’ty1a. — Labidte— The Sage.
No one who has only seen the com-
mon Sage growing in a kitchen-
garden could imagine the splendid-
ly flowering-plants which belong to
the genus Salvia. Some of these,
as for example S. formésa, are

| shrubby and have dark scarlet flow-
/ers; and others, such as SN. patens,

have their flowers of the richest
blue ; others, such as WS. atrea,
have golden yellow flowers ; others,
‘such as S. denidta, have white
flowers ; and in others, such as
S. involucrata, and S. purptrea,
the flowers are purple. Besides
' these, some of the kinds have violet
flowers, and others pink or crim-
son ; and the different kinds of Cla-

should be exposed to the burning | ry (S. horménum) are not ee a
heat of the sun, so as to become | ‘ted for their flowers at all,

withered, the plant will die off | merely because the points of ihe
suddenly. It is also very easily | shoots are so, deeply tinted as to
killed by the collar being exposed | have the appearance of flowers.
to stagnant moisture.. When grown | The plants differ in their habits as
in pots, it should be frequently | much as in their flowers; some
shifted, always into pots only a lit-| are shrubby, some perennial, some
tle larger than the previous ones, | biennial, and some aunual; and

so as to make the plant bushy. It
varies very much according to the
soil and situation in which it is
grown; and if kept through the
winter in a greenhouse, it will be-

a

some are so tender as to require a
stove; while others must be ke

in a frame or greenhouse, and the
greater part are quite hardy in the
open air. All the kinds should be Se

*.

SAND.

grown in alight rich soil ; and they |

are propagated by cuttings, division
of the root, or sceds, which last
nearly ail the species ripen in great
abundance. There are above a
hundred and fifty distinct species of
Salvia, besides varieties.

Sampac.—The Indian Jasmine.
_ —See Jasminum.

Samsu‘cus. — Caprifolidcee. —
The Elder. The common Elder,
Sambiicus nigra, is a low tree, sel-
dom, if ever, exceeding twenty feet
in height, and generally having the
character of a shrub rather than
that of a tree.
ornamental, but there is a variety

with cut leaves, S. 2. lacinidta, |
The most |
ornamental kind of Elder is, how- |

which is very much so.

ever, S. racemosa, with loose pani-

cles of large dark scarlet berries, |
which look like bunches of bright |
All the different

scarlet grapes.
kinds of Elder thrive most in rich
soil kept moist, and they are propa-
gated by layers, cuttings, and seeds,

which ripen freely. They are all |

quite hardy, and require very little
attention from the gardener.

SaMPHIRE. — Crithmum mariti-
mum.—A. British rock plant which
grows on the sea-coast, and is used
as a pickle.

Samy‘pa. — Samy\dee. — Pretty |

stove shrubs with very curiously-
shaped flowers, natives of the West
Indies. They should be grown in
loam and peat, but they are rather
difficult to cultivate.

Sanp is an important article in |
culture of |
plants; and no good. garden, whe- |
ther small or large, ought to be |
Sand rela- |
tively to gardening is of two kinds: |

the propagation

withe a stock of it.

pure white silver sand free from
ed matter and ferruginous par-

cles, which is only found in parti- |

cular situations ; and common brown
or gray sand which is found in pits
_ either with or without gravel, and

364

The species is not |

x

SAND.

on the shores of rivers or the sea.
: The first kind of sand is used for
striking heaths, and other plants
difficult to root Wines, and also
for mixing with peat for growing
the more tender kinds of house
plants. ‘This sand 1s procured in
abundance in the neighbourhood of
London and Paris from pits; but
throughout the country in general,
it is chiefly to be found mixed with
peat, and forming what is called
heath soil on the surface of heaths
_or commons. In these situations
this sand, from being exposed alter-
nately to the air, the sun, and the
/action of rain, becomes white by
bleaching, and is indispensable to
the gardener; but when it exists
in heath soil in a sufficient propor-
‘tion for growing plants, pure sand
is only wanted by the gardener for
striking cuttings. It is, however,
so useful for this purpose, that a
quantity of it ought to be procured
_and carefully kept in a box where
it will not be mixed with other soil,
by every person who grows plants
| 1n pots.

Common coarse sand is used for
striking the commoner kinds of
plants either by cuttings or layers ;
it is also used for placing under
| bulbs when planting them, and in
general for mixing with soil of dif-
'ferent kinds with a-view to render
it more free and pervious to water.
| This description of sand may be
procured in almost every part of the
country :,and it is only necessary
te guard against pit-sand which is
of a rusty brown, and consequently

sea sand which is necessarily im-
pregnated with salt. By mixing
irony sand with quicklime in a state
of powder, the iron may be neu-
tralized ; but this operation requires
a year or two to effect it, besides the
expense of the lime, and the neces.
sity of separating it afterwards by
isifting. Saline sand may be ren-

strongly impregnated with iron, and “

™~

-
%
"

¢

oo

s

. -
BAP

i a

SANVITALIA.

er

dered fit for use by repeated wash-
ings with fresh water; but this ex-
pense can only be advisable when

no other sand can be procured. In-

various parts of the country there
is a lead-coloured soft sandstone,
which when broken, and reduced to
a state of powder, forms an excel-
lent sand, both for mixing with soil
and striking cuttings.
SANDAL-woop.—See Sa’'NTALUM.
Saneuina‘ria. — Papaverdcee. —
Puccoon, or Canadian Bloodwort.

A very pretty little plant with |

white ranunculus-shaped flowers.
It should be grown in a light sandy
soil, and it has a very good effect
as fillmg one of the beds of a geo-
metric flower-garden. The plants
are increased by seed or division of
the roots.

Sancuiso’rBa.— Rosdcee.—Great
Burnet. Some of the exotic kinds
are ornamental; they are hardy
herbaceous plants, and should be
grown in light rich soil. ‘They are
increased by dividing the root.

Sa/nraLum.—Santaldcee.— San-
dal-wood. Stove plants, natives of
the East Indies, and one species
from New Holland. The flowers
of S. album, the true Sandal-wood,
are small, and are produced in
spikes or racemes; but the great
value of the plant consists in the
fragrance of the wood, which is so
great that the wood is burmed for
incense, &c., and is said to be de-
structive to all noxious insects. The
plants should be grown in light
sandy loam, and kept rather dry ;
but the wood has comparatively

very little fragrance in this country.

Sanroui'na.—Composite.— Lav-
ender cotton. Evergreen dwarf
shrubs, which will grow in any
common garden soil, and which are
propagated by cuttings.

Sanvita‘nra. — Composite, — A
beautiful little Mexican annual, well
adapted from its dwarf stature and
compact habit of growth for cover-

31*

»

we

ing a bed in a geometric flower-

garden. ‘The flowers are large in
proportion to the size of the plant,
and they are of a rich brown and
yellow. It is quite hardy, and one
requires sowing in March or Apri
in the open border.

Sapi’Npus. — Sapindacee.— The
Soap berry. Natives of the East
and West Indies, which require a
stove in England. They should be
grown in loam and peat, and they are
propagated by cuttings.

Sapona‘ria.—Silenacee or Cary-
ophyllacee.—Soapwort. Very beau-
tiful little plants, annual and peren-
nial, greatly resembling some of the
kinds of Lychnis. All the kinds
of Saponaria look very well on rock-
work, covering it with a profusion
of beautiful little pink flowers. The
handsomest kinds are S. ecyméides,
an S. caldbrica, for the perennials ;
and S. vaccaria, and S. perfoliata
forthe annuals. ‘They will all grow
in any common garden soil.

Sa/racna.—Solandcee.— Annual

and perennial plants, natives of /’

Mexico and Peru. S. viscosa, which
is the handsomest species, has rather
large cream-coloured flowers beau-
tifully marked in the centre with
olive dots, and which are succeeded
by large red berries. It may be
treated as a half-hardy annual ; of
the roots, which are tuberous, may
be taken up, and kept dry during
winter like those of the Marvel of
Peru, and other similar plants.
When treated as an annual, the
seeds should be sown on a slight
hotbed in February, and the young
plants es! into the open border
in May.

Sarca/ntuus.— Orchidaceae.
East Indian Epiphyteitigeerly al-
lied to Vanda, which should be
crown on logs of wood.—See Or-
cHIpEous Epirnyres.

Sa naacu'nia.—Sarracenedecale
The American Pitcher-plant, or
Side-saddle flower. Bog plantg

r
+

sd

SAW-FLY.

with very curious flowers, and
pitcher-shaped leaves. Though na-
tives of Canada, where they flower
freely, and are produced in great

undance, they are seldom flow-
ered in England without the aid of
artificial heat. They are grown in
pots filled with peat and moss, and
placed in saucers of water, or in the
open air, on the banks of ponds or
rivers. When kept in a room, or
on a balcony, they should be grown
in double pots, the interstice be-
tween the two being filled with
moss.

Sarsapari’Ltia.—See Smi‘\nax.

Sasanqua.—A kind of Camellia,
the blossom of which strongly re-
sembles that of the tea-tree.

Sa’ssarras.—Latrus Sassafras.
—A large tree, a native of North
America.

Saty’rium.— Orchidicee.— Ter-
restrial orchidaceous plants from the
Cape of Good Hope. The leaves
are very curious from the flat man-
ner in which they spread themselves
on the surface of the pot; and the
flowers, which are generally yellow,
are very handsome. They shouid
be grown in very sandy loam or
peat ; and they are generally kept
in a greenhouse. They are very
apt to damp off if over-watered.

Saw.—The more convenient kind
for a lady to use for garden pur-
poses is one called a bow-saw (see
Jig. 48), made to screw tighter, if
necessary.

Saw-rry.— T'enthridee. — Beau-
tiful flies with clear wings, which |
are furnished with a curious instru-
ment like a saw in the lower part
of the body, with which they wound
the bark to deposite their eggs.
These eggs, like those of some other |
insects, greatly i increase in size after |
they are laid. The grub or maggot
is short and thick, with a black

ing head, and when attacked it |

366

ean let itself down with a thread.
gore insects are very destructive

SCHINUS.

to Rose trees, as they destroy the
flower-buds.

OT

| bs

Fig. 48.—Bow Saw for cutting off branches
from Trees.

Saxr'reacaSarirape aan

known herbaceous plants, many of’

which are natives of Britain, with
white, yellow or pink flowers. They
are all of the easiest culture, and
will grow in any light garden soil,
though they prefer a deep sand.
S. umbrésa is the London Pride,

and S. granuléta, the common

Mountain Saxifrage. All the kinds
are handsome, and many of them
are well adapted for rockwork.

SAXIFRAGE.—See Saxi'FRAGA.

Scasio'sa. — Dipsdcea. — The
Scabious.
and annual plants, mostly natives
of Europe and the East Indies, that
will grow freely in any common
garden soil, and may be increased
| by seeds.

Scazious.—See Scapio'sa.

Sca.e Insect.—See Coccus.

Scui'nus. — Anacardidcee, or
Terebinthacee.—Deciduous shrubs
or lew trees, natives of Brazil and
Peru, nearly allied to Duvaua. The

i

Ornamental perennial

Saks bit

hu

SCHIZANTHUS. 367 SCILLA.

flowers of Schinus Milli, the com-
monest species, are small and of a

yellowish green; but they are suc-
ceeded by hemes of beautiful rose | much larger in the open ground,
a gh

colour, and y polished. The | and the flowers are finer, if the soil
leaves are impari-pinnate and very | be sufficiently rich and hght; but
handsome, and they have the same | care should be taken to plant them
peculiarity as those of the Duvaua. | in a sheltered situation, or to tie
(See Duvau‘sa.) S. Mili was first | them to stakes, as the stems are
considered a stove plant; it was} very brittle and very liable to be

broken of by high winds. The

afterwards transferred to the green- |

house, and it is now found to suc- | principal kinds of Schizanthus are
ceed in the open air. It was intro-| S. pinndtus, with its varieties, all
duced in 1597, but it was very | of which have purplish flowers ;
searce till about 1839, when it was | §. retizsus with scarlet and yellow
first tried in the open ground. It! flowers; and S. Priestii, with
will grow in any common garden | white and yellow flowers. Of these,

soil; and it only requires a slight) S. pinndtus and its allied species

| plants should be removed into the
open air in May, when they will
flower in autumn. The plants are

protection during hard frosts.
Scuiza'/npRs.—-Menispermdacee.-—
A climbing or trailing half-hardy
shrub, with scarlet flowers, nearly
allied to Cocculus indicus. For the
culture, see Co’ccunus. ©
Scuiza'ntHus. — Solandcee, or
Scrophularinee.—A genus of very
_ beautiful half-hardy annual flowers,

which may be either sown in au-|

or variety, S. porrigens, are the
hardiest.

Scuizore'TaLon. — Cructfere. —
An annual flower, with curiously
cut petals, and a strong tap root.
It is rather dificult to grow, as it
does not bear transplanting well,
unless when quite young, and it
requires a deep free soil for its de-
scending root. It should be sown

tumn or spring. If wanted to flower | in spring, and if possible, where it is

in spring, the seed should be sown |

in August or September as soon as

to remain.
Scro‘r1a. — Legumindse—Cape

it is ripe, in light rich mould; and| shrubs with very showy flowers,
the young plants should be kept in |‘which may be kept in a green-
well-drained pets in a frame or| house during the greater part of

greenhouse during winter. In Feb-
ruary they should be shifted into
larger pots, and this shifting should
be repeated every week or fortnight
till the plants have formed their
flower-buds. Care must be taken
in shifting the plants not to injure

the year; but which should be re-
moved to a stove or hotbed frame
during winter. They should not,
however, be plunged, as bottom-
heat does not appear to suit them.
They should be grown in peat mixed
with a little loam, or m very sandy

the roots, as they are very tender | loam, the pots being well drained ;
and succulent. The plants are also | and they are propagated by cuttings

liable to die suddenly if the cellar
is exposed to much sun-heat, or
much moisture. The soil should
be composed of equal parts of ve-

struck without bottem-heat. Many
gardeners keep them in a green-
house all the year, covering them
with a hand-glass and a mat im very

getable mould and sandy loam, or| severe weather.

of loam, peat, and rotten manure} Scuuse/rtia. — Conifere. — See
from an old hotbed. When the} Decinuous Cypress.

seeds are sown in spring, it should} Sci'tta. — Asphodélee. — The

be on a hotbed, and the young: Squill or Wild Hyacinth. Bulbous=

Ce
t

a

SCOTTIA. 368

rooted sehavien: mostly natives “of
Europe, which send up their beau-
tiful bell-shaped flowers before their
leaves. ‘Their flowers resemble
“those of the Hyacinth, but they are
much smaller. S. sibirica is per-
haps the most brilliant blue ndts fl
grown in British gardens ; and there
are other kinds with white or pale
pink flowers, well deserving of cul- |
tivation. S. nonscripta, the Wild |
Hyacinth, is sometimes called the
Blue Bell, and the Hare Bell; but
these names are also applied, and |
apparently with more propriety, to |
Campanula rotundifilia. (See
Campa’nuta.) All the kinds of
Scilla are quite hardy, but they
shrive best im a sandy soil and a
somewhat shady situation. They
are increased by offsets, and the |
bulbs may be taken up in autumn |
if it is thought necessary to remove |
these; but otherwise they may re- |
main in the ground several years
without sustaining any injury.
Hiot-house plants
with reed- aie stems, long broad
leaves and showy flowers, which |
are usually fragrant.

Scorpion Grass.—See Myecso'rs.

Scorrion Senna. — Coronilla |
eménes.—See Corona.

Scorpiu‘rus. — Leguminése.
Caterpillars. Annuals with yellow |
pea-flowers, the seed vessels of |
which resemble caterpillars. The 3
species are all natives of the south |
of Europe, and they are all quite |
hardy in British gardens.

ScorzonE‘ra. — Composite.—Vi-
per’s Grass. Handsome perennials, |
with purple, pink, or yellow flowers, |
quite hardy in British gardens and |
growing im any common garden|
soil.

Scorcnu Lasurnum.—Cy/’
pinus.—S8ee Cy'risus.

Sco'rria. — Leguminose. — An |
Australian shrub with reddish pea |
flowers, quite hardy in British gar- |
dens, if grown in sandy peat. |

tisus al-

| parts 01
| America and Australia.

*

SEA RAGWORT.
Screens differ from sieves in
having the wires Ap parallel lines,
and not reticulat and in being
too large to be’shaken by the hands.
A screen consists of a number of
parallel wiredifixed in a wooden
frame, and supported at one end by
two wooden posts, while the other

rests against the ground; and the

earth to be sifted is thrown by
spadefuls against the wires, so that
while the mould passes through
them, the stones and rubbish fall
on the side next the gardener. The
earth must be well broken with the
spade before it is thrown upon the

screen, and the operation can only
_be performed when the weather is

dry.

Scropruua‘ria. — Scrophulari-
nee.—Figwort. Perennial plants
with brownish flowers, mostly na-
tives of Europe, and growing in
any common garden soil.

Scureya ‘x1a.— Labidte. —Skull-
cap. Handsome perennial plants,

_generally with blue flowers, but the

flowers of some of which are some-
times pink, yellow, white, or purple ;

| all being shaped like those of the

Snap-dragon. Some of the species
are natives of Britain, and other
rope, and others of North
They all
grow best in peat, or in very sandy
loam; and they are all quite hardy
in British gardens.

Sea Bucxruorn. — Hippophae
| eeemuabs des.—See Hrrpo'Puae.

Sea Hearu.—sSee Franke'nia.

Sea Hoiry.—Ery'ngium aquifo-
lium.—An umbelliferous perennial
with blue flowers, a native of Spain,
which should be grown in very
sandy loam.

Sea Lavenper.--See Sra’tTIce.

Sea Racworr.—Cinerdria mart-

| tima. —A half-hardy dwarf shrub

_with yellow. flowers, a native of the
‘south of Europe, which is generally
grown in a greenhouse, in a mix-
ture of loam and peat.

&

ae

SEATS.

369

SEATS.

Sea-sipE Batsam.—Croton Eleu-
téria.— A native of Jamaica.—See
Cro‘ron. =

SEats fongegpens are either open
or covered; the latter being in the
form of root-houses, huts, pavilions,
temples, grottoes, &c., and the for-
mer being either fixed, temporary,
or portable. Fixed seats are com-
monly of stone, either plain stone
benches without backs, or stone
supports to wooden benches. Some-
times, also, wooden seats are fixed,
as when they are placed round a
tree, or when boards are nailed to

posts, or when seats are formed in |

imitation of mushrooms, as in the
grounds at Redleaf. Fixed seats
are also sometimes formed of turf.
Portable seats are formed of wood,
sometimes contrived to have the
back of the seat folded down when
the seat is not in use; so as to ex-
clude the weather, and avoid the
dirt of birds which are apt to perch
on them. ‘Another kind of portable
seat, which is frequently formed in
iron, as shown in jig. 49, is readily

Fig. 49.—Moveable*Garden Seat.

wheeled from one part of the grounds
to another; and the back of which
also folds down to protect the seat
from the weather. There is a kind
of camp-stool which serves as a
portable seat, imported from Nor-
way, and sold at the low price of
2s. 6d. or 3s.; and there are als

straw seats, like half beehives, whic

are, however, only used in garden-
huts, or in any situation under cover,
because in the open air they would
be lable to be soaked with rain.
There area great variety of rustic

seats formed of roots and crooked
branches of trees, used both for the
open garden and under cover; and
there are also seats of cast and
wrought iron, of great variety of form.
There should always be some kind
of analogy between the seat and
the scene of which it forms a part;
and for this reason rustic seats

should be confined to rustic scene-

ry; and the seats fora lawn
or highly kept pleasure-ground
ought to be of comparatively simple
and architectural forms, and either
of wood or stone, those of wood being
frequently painted of a stone colour,
and sprinkled over with silver sand
before the paint is dry, to give them
the appearance of stone. Iron seats,
generally speaking, are not suffi-
cieutly massive for effect; and the
metal conveys the idea of cold in
winter and heat in summer.

When seats are placed along a

walk, a gravelled recess ought to),

be formed to receive them; and
there ought, generally, to be a foot-
board to keep the feet from the
moist ground, whether the seat is
on gravel or on al awn. Ina gar-
den where there are several seats,
some ought to be in positions ex-
posed to the sun, and others placed
in the shade, and none ought to be
put down in a situation where the
back of the seat is seen by a person
approaching it before the front. In-
deed the backs of all fixed seats
ought to be concealed by shrubs, or
by some other means, unless they
are circular seats placed round a
tree. Seats ought not to be put
down where there will be any tempt-
ation to the persons sitting on them
to strain their eyes to the night or

| left, nor where the boundary of the
garden forms a conspicuous object

in the view. In general, all seats
should be of a stone colour, as har-
monizing best with vegetation. No-
thing can be more unartistical than
seats painied of a pea-green, and

*

*

#

SEEDS.

placed among the green of living
plants.
Securipa\ce.—-Polygidlee.—-Stove
climbers from the West Indies, with
white flowers, which should be grown
im a mixture of peat and loam.
Securi'cera.—-Leguminose —The
Hatchet Vetch. A hardy annual,
with yellow pea-flowers. It requires
no other care than sowing in March
or April, but as it is very coarse-
growing, and requires a great deal
of room, it is not suitable for a small
garden. This plant was called Co-
ronilla Securidaca by Linneus.
Sre‘pum. — Crassaldcee. — The
Stone Crop. Succulent plants with
white, red, or yellow flowers. ‘The
genus takes its botanic name of
Sedum from the Latin verb Nedere,
to sit, because in its wild state it
appears to be sitting or crouching
on the old walls or rocks which form
ifs habitat; and its English name

we! Stone Crop alludes to the same |

habit of growth, as it appears to be

growing out of stones which afford |

no, other crop. All the species,
though quite hardy, should be grown
in well-drained pots filled with turfy
loam, mixed with lime-rubbish ; and
they are all admirably adapted for
rockwork. They are increased by
cuttings, or dividing the roots.
Seeps.—The gathering and pre-
servation of seeds is an occupation
peculiarly agreeable to persons fond
of gardening ; partly, no doubt, be-
cause it contains so much of future
promise, and on the same principle
that sowing is universally considered
a more exciting operation than reap-
ing. he greater number of seeds
of ornamental herbaceous plants
are contained in long narrow pods,
called siliques, or sillicles, such as
those of the cruciferous plants; or
in leguminous pods, such as those
of the Sweet Pea; or of capsules,
such as those of Campanula; but
a number of plants produce their
seeds naked in tubes, such as the

370

SEEDS.

Scrophularine ; on receptacles, such
as the Composita; and some in
fruits more or less fleshy, such as
the Fuchsia. All seeds may be
known to be ripe, or nearly so, by
the firmness of their texture, and
by their changing from a white or
greenish colour, to a colour more or
less brown. There are, indeed,
some seeds which are whitish when
ripe, such as the White Lupine, and
several of the Sweet Peas; and
other seeds that are quite black,
such as those of some Ranuncu-
luses; but, in general, a brown
colour is a characteristic of ripeness.
Seeds should be gathered on a dry
day, after the sun has had sufficient
time to exhale all the moisture
which dews or rains may have left
on the seed vessels. In general, the
pods, or capsules, should be cut off
with a small portion of the stalks
attached, and the whole should be
spread out, each kind by itself, on
papers, in an airy room or shed,
from which rain, and the indirect

|influence of the sun, are both ex-

cluded. When the seed-vessels are
thoroughly dried, they may be put

| up in papers, without separating the

seeds from them, and kept in a dry
place, rate airy than close, till
wanted forsowing. Seeds preserved

in the seed-vessel no doubt make
comparatively clumsy packages, to
seeds from which every description
of husk or covering has been sepa-
rated ; but in this clumsy state they
are found to keep better than when

cleaned. Nevertheless, when they

are to be sown the following year,
or sent anywhere in a letter, it is
better to take them out of the cov-
ering, and render them as clean as
possible, by passing them through
sieves, with holes sufficiently large
to admit the escape of dust, but not
of the seeds. Such sieves, on a
small scale, every lady may make
for herself, by turning up the edges
of a piece of thin pasteboard cut

i,

Si ae

SEEDS.

371

SENECIO.

in a cireular form, and piercing the
bottom with holes with a large pin
or darning-needie. When it is de-
termined to separate the seed from
the seed-vessels, instead of putting
up the whole tegether, the vessels,
after gathering, may be dried in the
sun; when*many of the seeds will
come out by the expansion of the
seed-vessels in the heat, and the re-
mainder can easily be rubbed out.
This is the usual practice of nursery-
men. For keeping seeds a lady
ought to have a small cabinet, which
she might form herself of paste-
board, with as many drawers as there
are letters in the alphabet; and as
her seeds are put up in papers, she
can tie the packets or each genus
by themselves, and put them in the
appropriate drawer. Where so much
trouble cannot be taken, a large
brown paper bag, or a canvass bag,
for each letter of the alphabet, may
be substituted.

The period during which seeds
will retain their vegetative powers
differs in different families, genera,
and even species. Seeds of the
Ranunculacee and the Crucifere,
will, in general, retain their vitality
for several years, in whateyer man-
ner they may be kept ; provides the
situation be not such as will cause
them to germinate.
hand, seeds of the Capsicum will
keep for several years if retained in
the berry, but will seldom grow the
second year when removed ‘rom it.
As a safe general guide, it may be

adopted as a rule, that all seeds will
keep three years, and grow, provided
fhey are retained in an unopened
seed-vessel; that most seeds, if ma-
turely ripened, and kept in a dry
place in close paper packets, will
grow the second year ; and that all

seeds whatever, whether kept in the

seed-vessel, or exposed in open
drawers like those of the seedsmen,
will grow the first year after being
gathered. Mignionette seed will keep

On the other

seven years ; but that of Stocks and
Wall-flowers will not remain good
more than two years, unless kept in
the pod. Sweet Peas and Lupines
will with difficulty keep two years,
while the seeds of the Prince’s
Feather, and of Poppies, will keep
several years. Larkspur seed will
seldom grow after the second or
third year. Notwithstanding the
length of time which some seeds
will keep, it is generally advisable
to sow them as soon after they are
ripe as practicable, as fresh seeds
always vegetate much sooner than
old ones.

SELPHEAL.—See Prune'La.

Sempervi'voum. — Crassuldcee. —
House Leek. Succulent plants, the
most beautiful of which are natives
of the Canary Islands, and require
to be kept in the greenhouse. They
should be grown in sandy loam,
mixed with lime rubbish, and the
pots should be well drained. They
require very little water, except
when about to flower; and they are
propagated by cuttings, which must
be laid to dry for some days before
they are planted. When potted,
they should neither have any water,
ner be covered with a glass ; but
they may be plunged into a bed of
tan or dead leaves. The hardy
kinds are very suitable for rockwork,
and are increased by suckers from
the roots.

Sene‘cio.—Composite.— A very
extensive genus, including many
plants which are guite worthless,
such as the commen British weed
called Groundsel (S. vulgaris) ;
many showy garden-flowers, such
as the Jacobea, or Purple Ragwort
S. élegans) ; and even some hot-
ouse and greenhouse shrubs. Of
these one of the handsomest garden-
flowers is the double purple Jacobza,
which is a native of the Cape of Good
Hope. It difters from the commen
British Ragwort (S. Jacobea), the
flowers of which are yellovy, not

a

SHADING. 372 SHRUBBERY.

only in its flowers, but in its habit | Suare Cepar.—Acdcia Oxycé-
of growth. The seeds of the purple | drus.—See Aca‘cta.

Jacobea should be sown on a slight} Surzp Lavret.—See Ka'imia.-
hotbed, and the young plants re-| Sxexrp’s Scasrous—See Jasio'Ne.
moved to the open borders in May ; HEPHE RDIA. — Eledgnee. —
if kept during the winter in a green- | Beautiful shrubs, or low trees, with
house, they will become shrubby | silvery leaves, which were formerly
like the Mignionette. All the species | considered to belong to the genus
of Senecio like a rather rich loamy | Hippophae. The silvery appear-
soil, kept open by a mixture of sand | ance of the leaves is produced by
or peat, and most of them are hardy. | their outer surface being of a bluish
There are, however, a few Cape| green, and their lower surface lined
shrubs belonging to the genus,| with a soft silky down of snowy
which require a greenhouse. Ac-| whiteness. The plants are natives
cording to the new arrangement of; of North America, and may be
the Composite by Professor De Can-| grown in peat, or in very sandy
delle, nearly the whole of the genus|loam. (See the AppEenpix.)
Cineraria has been incorporated in| Suera’rvoia.—Rubidcee.— Field
that of Senecio.—See Cinera‘ria.| Madder. Very pretty British weeds, —

Sensitive Piant.—See Mrmo'ss. | which may be introduced with good

Ssnappock.—See Cr‘rrvs. effect on rockwork.

SHapine is necessary to plants| Surrrineis the operation of trans-
after transplanting, to prevent the | ferring plants grown in small pots
evaporation from the leaves, which | to other pots a little larger; and it
takes place when the plants are|is of very great advantage when it
exposed to the full heat of the sun, | is wished to keep plants short and
being greater than the roots can|bushy. In shifting, the ball of
supply moisture to support. Besides | earth round the roots is not broken,
this, partial shade is necessary to| but placed in the centre of the new
many plants which cannot bear the | pot, and the earth filled in round it.
direct rays of the sun; such, for|—See Porrine.
example, as the Californian an- Sume6Le Oax.—Quércus imbri-
nuals—plants which in their na- eta
tive state grow in thick woods, Surossy Treroit.—Ptélea trifo-
fens, &c. In these cases, however, | Jidta.—See PrTe‘Lea.
it is not necessary that. the shade | Surussy Cinquerort.—Potentil-
should be so great as for newly- | la fruticésa.—See Porenti’Lua.
transplanted plants. There is a| Surussery.—A walk bordered
great deal of difference in plants, | by shrubs and trees with some flow-
with regard to their flowers bearing | ers in front, is called a shrubbery.
the direct rays of the sun. Some/In small villas it generally leads
require solar influence to make them | from the house to the kitchen-gar-
expand, such as all the kinds of|den; and sometimes goes round
Mesembryanthemum ; while cthers | the latter, or is conducted round an
such as the Evening Primrose, only | open lawn. The object in forming
unfold their flowers when the sun| a shrubbery is to produce as great
withdraws its rays. Most of the} an extent of interesting walk as the
Orchideous epiphytes, which grow | nature, extent, and other cireum-
in dense woods, succeed best in| stances of the place will admit.
hothouses glazed with green glass,| There is then no positive rule for
which affords them the requisite| either the length of a shrubbery
degree of shade. walk or its direction; and unless a

SHRUBBERY.

—_—_—--

373

SHRUBBERY.

. . : | . .
given situation were to be treated | that have not sufficient room and au

of, only some general directions can
be given or principles laid down
respecting the planting of the shrubs
and trees.

If we examine most of the shrub-
beries in country residences, we

shall find that there is a general |

sameness in the appearance of the
trees and shrubs with which they
are planted, from one end of the
shrubbery to the other. ‘This same-
ness results from the mode com-
monly employed of mixing those
kinds of trees and shrubs that can
be most readily procured indiscrimi-
nately together. Some evergreens
are distributed throughout the whole,
such as a few Hollies, and a few
Pines and Firs; Laurels, and with
a few Roses, and perhaps a iew
Honeysuckles. The rest is made

up of the common mixture planted |

by contractors or jobbing gardeners
on such occasions. ‘The object is
merely to produce a plantation
which shall have some flowering
shrubs in it, and some herbaceous
plants and Roses. If we examine
the progress of such a plantation
from the time it has been planted
till it has attaimed the age of twenty
or thirty years, we shall that at
the end of four or five years the
herbaceous plants will become chok-
ed up, and are either killed or ren-
dered unsightly. In six years the
Roses will have ceased to flower
freely for want of light and air, and
of manuring the soil; and hence
they will have become the very
reverse of ornamental. In ten
years the finer shrubs will have
been choked up by the coarser kinds,
and in twenty years almost all the
shrubs will have vanished, having

been destroyed by the trees. There

is no way of preventing this res

to a shrubbery planted in the usual

manner, except by constant thin-

ning ; beginning in the third year, and

removing all the oon plants
3

and light to grow and flower freely.
The bulbs may be left as long as
they will grow; because as they
have but little foliage, and that feli-
age is produced early and soon dies
oif, they are, under no circum-
stances, so disagreeable in their ap-
pearance as dicotyledonous plants.
The Roses should be removed when-
ever they cease to flower vigorous-
ly; and all the other shrubs should
be thinned out when their branches
begin to interfere with one another.
Where the shrubbery is twenty or
thirty feet wide, every shrub should
be kept separate from every other
shrub, so as to be clothed with
branches from the ground upward;
or the shrubs should be encouraged
to grow in groups of different sizes,
each group being kept more or less
distinct from every other group. It
may be thought that this mode of
keeping the single plants and the
groups distinct, will prevent the
shrubbery from serving as a screen ;
but this 1s a mistake; because
though the plants, by being placed
alternately, will admit the eye of
the spectator on the walk to see in
among them, which in passing
along a walk adds greatly to the
variety of its effect, yet this very
circumstance will prevent the eye
from passing the boundary. Any
person may prove this by drawing
circles representing the shrubs or
groups on paper to a scale; and
supposing the strip of plantation to
be thirty feet in width; and the
circles some of them to be five feet
in diameter, and some of them ten
feet. The style of planting and
thinning so as to keep each plant
distinct, and always about to touch
but never actually touching those

| around it, is what Mr. Loudon calls

the gardenesque treatment of shrub.
beries and plantations; and the
style of grouping is called the
picturesque mode of planting and

af

SHRUBBERY. 374 SHRUBERERY.

management. These remarks may | kinds. The most complete shrub-
be considered as directions for mak-| bery that can be imagined is one
ing the most of a shrubbery already | which should contain all the larger
planted in the common manner ;| trees distributed along it as a back-
and, in so far as thinning is concern- | ground, with all the smaller trees
ed, they will equally apply to the|in front; next to these should be
mode of planting which is now| the larger shrubs, then the smaller
about to be described. | shrubs, next the Roses, and finally
Planting shrubberies sv as to pro- | in the front, apart from the Roses,
duce variety in the aspect of the| should be the herbaceous plants;
plantation is to be effected by one | thus forming a splendid bank of
vegetation on level ground. To

mode only, and that is to cause one |

kind of tree or shrub always to pre- | prevent such an arrangement from
vail in one place. In extensive | becoming monotonous, it is essen-
shrubberies this will require several | tially necessary that it should be
plants of the same species or varie- | combined with the natural system
ty to be placed together: but this | of relationship between the kinds;
occasions no additional expense ;| and this ought to be carried out in
because, in a common shrubbery at | the Roses, and in the herbaceous

least, the same numbei of plants of plants, no less than in the shrubs

one species would be planted, the | and trees. To solve this problem
only difference being that they | so as to carry the idea into execu-
would be placed in different parts | tion, is one of the nicest points for
of the plantation. In a small shrub-| an amateur landscape-gardener to
bery, perhaps not more than one or | attempt.

two plants of a species or variety} All shrubberies whatever, how-
might be required ; more especially | ever scientifically they may be plant-
if the object was to include as ex-| ed and thinned out afterwards, will
tensive a collection in the shrubbery | ultimately become old, and entirely
as could conveniently be procured. | lose the character which they had
There are almost a thousand trees | during the first eight or ten years
and shrubs, exclusive of Roses, in| after planting. Hence, in small
British nurseries, which may be | places, which have been planted a
purchased at moderate prices ; and | certain number of years, it is im-
all these may be used in a shrubbe- | possible to have a shrubbery such
ry which contains no more ground|as is here described, without re-
than a single acre. Supposing that | moving the large trees and shrubs
only one plant of a kind is planted, | already existing ; and this must ne-
and supposing that each genus or cessarily depend on the taste of the
natural order is kept by itself, every | proprietor, and whether a collec-
part of the surface of the plantation | tion of young trees and shrubs,
will be different from that which | which have a bare and new look,
precedes or follows it; and the | but which will be continually in-
greatest variety which the case ad- creasing in beauty and magnitude,
mits of will be produced. So many | be preferred to a few full-grown
plants planted on one acre, will, | plants which are already in a state
however, soon cover the soil; and | of perfection, and which have an
therefore in three years after plant- | air of grandeur and repose.

ing, it will be necessary to begin to| When a shrubbery is planted,
thin them. The thinning in this | and for some years afterwards, the
tase ought to be directed to the re-| ground should be kept clean of
moval of the commoner and coarser | weeds by hoeing or slight digging ;

il

: *
375

SHRUBBERY.

and the shrubbery should be sepa- | ‘which he will suffer any grass to

SIDA.

rated from the walk by a verge of | | grow ; while the roses and. herba-

turf or of box.

When the opposite. ceous plants which have long ceased

side of the walk is turf, such as a| to be either healthy or ornamental,

lawn, then the side next the shrubs
must have a verge of turf also; but |

where a walk passes through the
middle of a shrubbery, box edgings /
may be used on both sides.

In
general, however, a grass verge is
greatly to be preferred, as being
more appropriate to a scene con-

nected with the lawn; and as not |

calling up ideas of a kitchen-gar-

den, or of a small flower-garden, |

where the beds are usually edged
with box. Whatever may be the

width of the gravel-walk, the grass |

“verge should not be narrower than

two feet, because less than that.

width cannot always be kept in

good order; such as neatly mown, |

level, and with the margins clipped

but not pared. Besides, a narrow |
verge has an appearance of mean-_|
ness, and gives the idea of want of |
As the shrubs spread over |

space.
the ground, there will soon be

scarcely any part of the interior of |
the shrubbery that will not be cover- |
and |
the shrubs along the margin will |

ed by their lower branches ;

extend their branches towards the
verge and even spread over it.

rally happens in four or five years,
all digging and hoeing becomes un-
necessary ; and the turf verge ought
to be encouraged to extend in w idth

are left to display their stunted and
naked branches, with the dug earth
for a background. The constant
digging and. stirring of the ground
breaks off the branches of the
shrubs, and thus an unsightly gap
is created, which entirely destroys
all the pleasing ideas excited by
glades of smooth turf appearing
| here and there to penetrate among
the trees. ‘I'o produce this latter
effect, as the branches of any of the
shrubs begin to spread over the
verge, all digging and paring ought
to be left off, and the grass encour-
aged to extend itself into the bays
and recesses of the plantation. In
like manner, in a shrubbery with
the walks edged with box, the box
ought to be removed whenever the
branches begin to spread over it,
leaving no edging to the walk at all
except what is formed by the re-
tiring and advancing of the branches
of the shrubs. ‘This will form a
walk with what is called picturesque
edgings ; but if a definite or a gar-
denesque edging is required, it may
be formed of brick or stone. On

'no account whatever ought any
When this is the case, which gene- |

kind of vegetable edging to be kept
up which does not grow freely; for
it Is a maxim in gardening which
ought never to be forgotten, that
what cannot be grown well, ought

under the branches of the plants, | not to be grown at all.

the roses and herbaceous plants, if

Srserian Cras.—Py'rus baccata,

any have been planted, being re-| and P. prunifolia—These trees,
moved. This is a point in the man-| though frequently grown in kitchen-

agement of shrubberies which is
almost everywhere defective ; for
the gardener generally continues
cutting the inner edge of the verge
and digging the ground among the
herbaceous plants and the roses, till
he has reduced the verge to about
six or eight inches in width next the
walk, this being the only part on

cy

gardens and orchards for their fruit,
deserve admission into ornamental
plantations for the beauty of their
Crabs when ripe.

Srperian Pea Tree.—A hardy
flowering shrub.—See CaraGana.

S1‘pa.— Malvdcee.-—Stove, green-
house, and hardy plants, natives of
the East. and West Indies, and

4

SIFTING.

North America, with showy white,
pink, or yellow flowers, which they
produce in great abundance. They
are grown in loam and peat, and
generally ripen seeds; by which,
and by cuttings, they are readily
increased.
SrpERO'xyLon.— Sapotee.—lron-
wood. Half-hardy and _ hardy
shrubs, and low trees, natives of
America, the East Indies, and the
Cape of Good Hope. Some of the
species have been removed to Bu-
melia, and one species, a native of
Morocco, which is hardy in Bri-
tish gardens, is now called Arga-
nia. All the kinds should be grown
in loam and peat; and they have

all small white, or whitish-green | nial plants, natives of North America,

flowers.

SmE-SADDLE FLowEr.—See Sar-
RACE NIA.

SIEVES are necessary in gardening
to separate the stones and coarser
particles from the mould to be used
for potting, and also for cleaning
seeds. Garden

ould be made with deep wooden

s, but for seeds the wooden rim

be more shallow; in both cases

the wires, or toile m<tallique, through

which the mould is to pass, should

be firmly attached to the rim, the

holes or interstices not being more

than the fourth of an inch in
diameter.

SirTinG is the operation of passing
any kind of soil through a sieve or
screen to deprive it of its coarser
particles. Decayed leaves and rotten
dung are also sifted; as it is only
the fine mould that falls from them
that is useful in yegetation. Sifting,
however, s be used with cau-
tion ; as some plants thrive better
when the particles of soil are not
too fine. ‘Turfy loam, for example,
should generally be chopped small
with a spade or trowel, and not sift-
ed; and peat should not be deprived
of the vegetable fibre in which it
abounds. Sifted e

sieves for meuld |

376 SINGLE —# ~~

loamy nature, is very apt to cake
_ together and to become impenetrable
to the finer roots of plants. e
Site‘nE.— Silendcee, or Caryo-
_phyllacee.—The Catchfly. Well-
| known annual and perennial plants,
many of which are natives of Bri-

those of the pink. They are near

_ all quite hardy, and only require the
/common treatment of their respective
kinds. Lobel’s Catchfly (S. Arméria)
is a common garden annual that re-
"quires sowing in the open ground in
| March or April.

| Six tree.—Acdcia Julibrissin.
|; —See Aca'cia.

| Si'Lputum.—Composite.—Peren-

| with yellow flowers, which are quite
_hardy in British gardens, and will
| grow in any garden soil.
| Srmaru‘sa.-Simarubidcee.—The
false Quassia. Stove plants with
showy flowers, natives of the West
Indies, nearly allied to the Quassia.
SINGLE TREES AND SINGLE SHRUBS
are the grand sources of variety in
a lawn or park, where the surface is
fiat and without any other resources ;
and they are also, when judiciously
disposed, valuable additions to a sur-
face naturally varied by undulations.
‘fhe great art in putting down single
trees 1s, todispose them so as to form
groups when seen from a distance,
and yet so as to produce variety
in every change of position in the
spectator when mear. The kinds of
trees and shrubs may be varied at
pleasure, provided some attention be
paid to the general forms, and to the
_prevalence of one general form or
racter of tree or shrub in one
e. For example, if conical
trees be distributed equally over the
grounds, along with round-headed
trees, they will produce great same-
ness ; but if conical trees prevail
in one place, round-headed trees in
another, and flat-spreading trees in

when of a’ a third, so many distinct characters

* |
a

°
jam

tain, with flowers something —

ee

SINGLE TREES 377 AND SHRUBS.

will be produced. The same may :
be a toshrubs. The sure mode
* of proceeding on right principles is
to take the different genera, and
allow only the species and varieties
of one genus to prevail in one place.
Single trees should always be planted
a prepared soi] raised in heaps a foot
r more above the general surface ;
so that after a year or two, when the
earth has settled down, the tree may
stand on a little hillock. ‘The trees
before planting should be ten feet or
twelve feet in height, with trunks
three inches or four inches in diame-
ter at the surface of the ground.
The shrubs should also be of as large
a size as will transplant with ease
and a fair prospect of success, and
this size will vary according to the
kind of shrub. Evergreen trees of
the Pine and Fir tribe, and of the
Cypress tribe, the beauty of which
depends on their spreading branches,
should either be planted in a situation
where no fence is requisite, or they
should be surrounded with iron hur-
dles or some other hight fence placed
five feet or six feet from the stem of |
the tree, and extended to a greater !
distance as the lateral branches ad-
vance in length } but broad-leafed
trees, such as most of the Exogens,
may be protected by fences placed
close to the stem. There are various
modes of doing this: fig. 50 shows
the mode of protecting by tying thorn

branches round stem, as practised

in the Regent’s , London, and
various other places.

Fig. 51 shows a mode of protect-
ing trees from sheep by tying laths
round them with wire. In the
zontal section, and also in the:
tion, a represents the stem
tree, b the wire, and c the laths.

ee

Fig. 51.—Protecting by Laths.
7
< 4

trunk to it with a hayband; care
being taken not to injure the roots
he in driving in the stake. There is
another mode of fixing a tree, which

To protect single trees from the | serves also to protect it; and this
wind, various modes have been consists in driving two pieces of»
adopted ; one of the simplest of | wood into the ground, with their
which consists in driving a stake lower extremities spread out, and
into the ground much deeper than | their uppe es tied to the tree.
the roots of age and tying the! Many ot! ethods will be found

% -

*
Ss

or
-

-
Ss

‘*<

eet
a Y
a aaa
SINGLE TREES. 378 SISYRINCHIUM.
in the Gardener’s Magazine, vol. y
xili., and in Mr. Loudon’s Suburban
Gardener. ¥-

In planting single trees, and in-
deed trees of every kind, the great-
est possible care should be taken to
place them so high above the sur-
face, as that after they have sunk
down, as they will doin a few years,
they may still appear to stand on a
little hillock, or to grow out of a

Fig. 53.—Fuil-grown Tree. .

for retaining water; but they will
soon sink down to the appearance
shown in fig. 53.

Sinni'Neta.— Gesneridcee.— Stove-
plants with large bell-shaped flowers.
They should be grown in light rich
soil.

Srenoca’mpyisu.— Lobelidcee.— e

A suffruticose plant, with red and
Fig 52.—Newly-planted Tree. green tube-shaped flowers. It is
generally kept in the greenhouse,
small mound. If we examine thriv-| but it is nearly hardy. It should
ing trees in natural wood, we shall | be grown in heath-mould, and it is
always find that the collar, that is,| propagateé by cuttings, which
the point of junction between the | should be dred a little before they
stem and the root, rises above the | are planted.
general surface, so as to form a lit-| Siero\nta—-Euphorbidcee.—The
tle hillock. On the cther hand, if | American Indian-rubber tree. The
we examine trees in artificial plan-| first elastic gum brought to Europe
tations, in which the soil has been | was the produce of the Ficus elds-
deeply trenched, we shall generally | tica; and as this plant is a native
find that though they may have|of the East Indies, the substance
been planted at first level with the | was thence called Indian rubber.
surface, they will, after a certain It has since been found that several
number of years, have sunk consid-| trees produce it; and the Caout-
erably below the surface ; or if care; choue used for the Mackintosh
has been taken to keep the ground | cloaks, &c., is principally produced
about them level, by adding fresh | by the Siphénia Cahtichu, a native
soil as the surface sinks, they will | of Guiana. The species requires a
appear with their collars completely | stove in England; and it grows
buried, and their trunks rising out | freely in peat, loam, and sand. It
of the soil like so many posts driven|is propagated by cuttings of the
into it by art, stead of springing | young wood in sand, with a bell-
from a woody base rising above the | glass and bottom-heat.
soil like trees and shrubs in a natural Pet scosisin,-Craiciferm ieee
forest, or on a common. In plant- | British weeds.
ing single trees, therefore, hillocks Sisyri’Ncuium.— Iridee. — Mus-
should at first be raised to a height | tard. Beautiful little plants resem-
which will for a year or two appear bling bulbous plants in their flowers,
quite unnatural, as shown in fig.| but with fibrous roots. They are
52, in which may be observed a/all natives of America, and they
small hollow at the base of the stem | should be grown in sandy peat.

x
$

SNAKE-WOOD.

SOLANUM.

SKULLCAP.—See ScuTeLLa‘Ria.

RIA.

Stues.—See Li'max.

Smitax.—Smildcee.— Evergreen
monocotyledonous, dicecious, climb-
ing shrubs, with curiously-ribbed
ee and numerous _ tendrils,

ich they twine round every ob-

ject within their reach. The roots
are thick and fleshy, and from them
(and particularly those of one spe-
cies) the drug called sarsaparilla is
made. The flowers are small and
whitish ; and those of the female
plants are succeeded by red or black
berries. 'The handsomest species is
_S. riibens, the tendrils of which are
of a bright red; and the next is SV.
excélsa, from the large size of its
leaves. All the species may be
grown in the common garden soil ;
but they should be planted in a
shady situation, and kept rather
moist. S. China and some other
Species are rather tender, and re-
quire protection from severe frosts.

Snaits.—See He’.rx.

SNAIL-FLOWER.—Phaséolus Ca-
racalla.—A climbing plant, a native
of India, with lilach flowers, nearly
allied to the Scarlet-runner.

SNAKE-GourD. — Trichosanthes
anguina.— A very curions plant,
with white flowers, every petal of
which appears surrounded with long
knotted fringe. The leaves‘and ten-
drils resemble those of the common
Cucumber ; but the fruit is curious-
ly striped, and is so long and nar-
row as toresemblea snake. Speci-
mens have indeed been grown more
than six feet long, and not thicker
than the body of a common s ‘
The plant is an annual, a native of
China, and it should be grown in a
frame like a common Cucumber or
Melon. It is of no use, and only
worth cultivating as an object of
curiosity.

SNAKE-woop.— Ceanothus colu-
brina.

SNAP-DRAGON. — See ANTIRRHI's

SNowsBaLL TREE.—See Vinv’r-
NUM.

Snowserry.—See SymPHorica’ Rr.
PUS.

Snowprop.—See Gaa‘nTHUus.

SnowpRop TREE.—See Hate'st.

SNowFLAKE.—See Leuco‘sum.

Soap-BerRY.—See Sari’/Npbus.

Soap-wort.—See Sapona'ria.

Sorts—are of two kinds, the sur-
face soils, and the subsoils ; the first
being what are generally understood
by the word soils, and the second
being properly designated earths.
Soils, according to this definition,
consist of the crumbling surface of
one of the primitive earths, mixed
with decayed animal or vegetable
matter, and perhaps with particles
of some other earth which may have
been washed down by rains, or oth-
erwise accidentally mingled with it.
Thus clay is one of the primitive
earths ; but loam, which is com-
pounded of the crumbling surface
of the clay, mixed with decayed
animal and vegetable substances, is
a soil. In the like manner, lime is
an earth, but chalk isa scil. When
several kinds of soil are mixed to-
gether, and intermingled with ma-
nures, the mixture is called a com-
post. All soils which contain a
considerable portion of sand or peat
are ealled light ; and all soils con-
taining clay are called loamy. What
is called a light rich soil, is gene-
rally composed of very sandy loam,
mixed with vegetable mould, or the
sifted remains of an old hotbed.

Sora‘num. — Solandcee. — The
Nightshade. The flowers of the
plants belonging to this extensive
genus all more or less resemble
those of the common Climbing
Nightshade, or Bitter-sweet of the
hedges, and indeed those of the Po-
tato, which belongs to this genus.
They are all rather pretty, but their
foliage is too coarse to be ornamen.

SOLLYA.

———
—— a

S. campanuldtum is perhaps | sect, similar in its nature to the
Some of | aphis, but still more disagreeable.

tal.
the handsomest species.
the species require a stove, others a
greenhouse, and others the open air ;
but they all agree in liking a rich
light soil, and they all grow well in
a * mixture of loam and peat, en-
riched with vegetable mould.
Soitpane'Lua. — Primuldacee. —
Beautiful little alpine plants, very
suitable for rockwork, some with
purple, and some with blue flowers.
They should be grown in heath-
mould; or in peat, mixed with very
sandy loam ; ; and they are increas-
ed by seeds, or by dividing the
roots. They are generally grown in
small pots, ‘and they should neither
have toc much nor too little water.
Souipa‘co.—- Composite.—-Golden
Rod. Perennial plants, quite hardy
in British gardens, where they
flower in autumn. They are too
tall for any small garden, and they
are only suitable for the back row
of a flower-border.. They will grow
in any common garden soil, and
they are increased by dividing the
root.
So’/Liya.—Pittospordcee. — This
beautiful little shrub, though only
introduced in 1830, is already as
cominon as the Fuchsia, and it is
a favourite everywhere. The leaves
are evergreen, and the bright blue
bell-shaped flowers, which are pro-
duced in tufts near the ends of the
branches, are so cleat that no
one can see them without admiring
them. The plant is a native of
New Holland, and it is nearly
hardy, as it will stand in the open
air if trained against a wall and
slightly protected during winter.
It is, however, generally grown in
pots, in which the only objection to
its culture is the circumstance of
its having the tips of its shoots fre-
quently covered with aphides, the
only cure for which is constant
syringing. In the open air it is
hable to the attacks of a black in-

3

It should be grown in peat and loam,
or in heath-mould, and it is propa-
gated by seeds or cuttings. ‘The
fruit, which is a berry full of seeds,
ripens freely ; but the cuttings are
very difficult to strike, and ma |
will rarely succeed without botto
heat. Besides Séllya heterophy'lla,
which is the common kind, two or
three other kinds have been intro-
duced by Captain Mangles from the
Swan River.

Sotomon’s Seaut.—Polygonatum
ivulgare, and P. multiflorum.—A
hardy perennial, which will grow
freely in any common garden soil.
The English name alludes to the
roots, which, when cut through,
have the appearance of Hebrew
characters.

So’ncuus. — Composite. — The
Sow Thistle. The common herba-
ceous species is a British weed;
but there are two or three shrubby
kinds from the Madeira and Canary
Isles, with yellow flowers, which
are very ornamental. ‘They should
be kept in a greenhouse, and grown
in a light rich soil.

Sopuo\ra. — Leguminose.— The
common Sophora japonica is a
large tree which grows freely in
the neighbourhood of London, and
produces its large bunches of cream-
coloured flowers in August and
September. 'The drooping Sophora,
however, though only considered a
variety of the tree, is very distinct.
It is a trailing shrub, sending out
shoots six feet or eight feet long in
a single season; and when it is
grafted on a stock of S. japénica,
ten feet or twelve feet high; these
long sweeping shoots the bark of |
which is a bright green, have a pe-
culiarly graceful appearance. The
Sophora will grow in any soil, but a
poor one suits it better than a rich
one; and its leaves seldom droop
even in the driest seasons,

y~ > *
&

SOWING. 381 SPARAXIS.

SourHERNwoop.—See Arremt-| more than a single seed. In the
BIA. ease of large seeds, and of all the
Sow1ne.—The operation of com- | commoner kinds, the use of the sau-
nitting seeds to the soil in flower-| cer for preparing the ground, and
gardening, is commonly done in! of the empty flower-pot as a protec-

patches; but sometimes flowers are | tion, may be dispensed with.
sown broadcast or in drills, and oc-| In sowing broadcast, the bed or
oly singly. When annuals | space to be covered being stirred up
re to be grown in borders contain- | with the spade and raked fine on
the surface, should be gently smooth-

ing a miscellaneous assemblage of
flowers, they are commonly sown | ed with the back of the spade and
the seeds afterwards strewed over

in small circular patches, in inter-
vals left on purpose among the per- | It, so as to lie, if the seed be good,
at an inch or two apart; or less, if

ennials, or among the Roses and

other low shrubs. Each paich is} the plants are to be thinned out or

prepared by digging up a spadeful | transplanted. The seeds may then

of the soil and returning it to its| be covered by strewing over them

place with the surface downwards ;| some fine mould; and this may be

then breaking it finely, and levelling | ‘‘ firmed,” as the gardeners term it,
by gently beating the ground flat

and smoothing the surface; and
lastly, depressing or slightly hollow- | with the spade. For ordinary seeds,
raking the surface smooth before

ing out a circle from three to six
inches in diameter, and from a quar- | sowing, and after sowing again
raking it, will be found sufficient ;

ter to a half an inch in depth, ac-

cording to the size of the seeds to be | and the raking should always be
sown. As most seeds germinate light in proportion to the smallness
best when gently pressed into the | of the seeds. In sowing grass-seeds
soil, a very good mode for amateurs| to form a lawn, the ground should
is to take the saucer of a flower-pot | be beaten equally firm throughout,
of the diameter of the patch, and | to prevent it from sinking unequally
gently press down the soil; and| afterwards; and after it has been
then to strew a few seeds on the | rendered perfectly smooth and even,
level surface thus formed. Half-a- | the seeds should be sown quite thick,
dozen seeds will be sufficient, of |and raked in so gently, that the
even the smallest-growing plants, | teeth of the rake may not penetrate
if the seeds are good. The next | more than half an inch into the
operation is to sprinkle a little fine | soil. .

soil over the seeds, so as to cover | Sowing in drills, or little furrows
them to about the same depth as | drawn by the hoe, is chiefly required
the seed is thick. After this, the | for edgings; and, as the plants
saucer should be again applied so | suited to this purpose are small, and
as to press down the soil and the’ also the seeds, great care ought to be
seeds together; and if there be any| taken to distribute them equally,
danger apprehended from birds or|and not to cover them with too
drought, an empty flower-pot should | much earth.

be turned over the patch till the| Sraniso Broom.—Spartium jun-
plants come up. The larger seeds | cewum.—See Spa/rtium.

of flowers, such as Lupines, Sweet Spara’xis. — Iridee. — Beautiful
Peas, &c., may be sown three or| bulbous plants, that will flower vig-
fo ar in a patch ; and some kinds of | orously if grown in a well-drained
Lupines, such as L. Cruickshankii| bed in the open air. For the mode
and ZL. mutabilis, will not require | of iting the bed, see I’x1a.

eit Els Wael

a
he

SPIR AA.

STAG’S HORN.

ee eee

ers; S. ariefolia, a most beautiful

Spa/rtium.— Leguminodse.— The
Spanish Broom. A well-known up-
right shrub, with upright deep-green
branches, and very few leaves,
which soon drop off. The flowers,
which are in terminal racemes, are
large, and of a deep yellow. It is
a native of Spain and Portugal,
and, in short, of the whole of the
south of Europe, where it grows in
rocky situations, and in dry gravelly
soils. In England it produces a
good effect in a shrubbery, and it
will grow vigorously wherever the
soil is gravelly or sandy ; but it does
not thrive in clay, as it has a long
tap-root, which it can only send
down where the soil is free. It is
generally propagated by seeds.

SpataLa’NTHus. — iridea. — The
Ribbon-flower. A very handsome
bulbous plant, requiring the usual
treatment of Cape bulbs.—Sce I'x1a.

SPEEDWELL.—Sce VERO'NICA.

SpHa’cnum. — Cryptogdmia.— A
kind of moss. ot

SpHENO'GyNE. — Composite. —
Beautiful annual plants, which only
require sowing in March or April,
in any common garden soil.

Spiper Opurys.—Scee O'purys.

SprpErwort.—See Trapesca’n-
TIA.

SPINDLE-TREE.—See Evo'nymus.

Spm2‘a. — Rosdcee. — Hardy
shrubs, generally natives of Siberia,
with very pretty flowers. The hand-
somest kinds are S. chamedrifolia,
with spike-like corymbs of white
flowers ; S. ulmifolia, with flat co-
rymbs of white flowers, and large
handsome leaves; S. hypericifolia,
or Italian May; 8S. saliczfolia,
Bridewort, or Queen’s Needle-work,
with spikes of pinkish flowers; S.
bélla, a native of Nepal, with co-
rymbs of beautiful rose-coloured
flowers, which it produces in May
and June; 8. opulifolia, the Vir-
ginian Guelder Rose, or Nine Bark,
a native of North America, with
corymbs of rather large white flow-

species, a native of California, with
loose panicles of feathery whitish
flowers, which it produces in July
and August ; and N. sorbifolia, with
loose panicies of white flowers and
pinnate leaves, from Siberia. All
the kinds grow with most nxunianteg
in moist soil, having a poor an

stunted appearance where the soil
is dry and gravelly; and they are
readily propagated by suckers, which
they throw up in great abundance.

Spina NTHES —Orchiddcee.—La-
dies’ Traces. Mosily tropical plants,
which require a moist stove.—See
Oxcuipeous Epipsyres.

SPLEENWoRT.—-Asplénium.—-Very
beautiful Ferns, which differ very
much in their appearance, though
they are all very handsome. They
require, like all other Ferns, to be
grown in moist shady places.

Spo'npias. — Terebinthacee. —
The Hog-plum. West Indian trees,
which require a stove in England,
and which grow freely in a mixture
of loam and peat.

SprREKE'LIA. — Amarylliddcea.—
The Jacobea Lily. A bulbous-
rooted plant, with splendid dark
scarlet flowers. It is called Jacobea
on account of the brilliant scarlet
of its flowers, which the Spaniards
in Peru thought resembled the scar-
let swords worn by the knights of
the order of St. James /Jacobzeus).
For the culture, see AMARyY'LLIs.

SpurGe.—See Eupuo’rsia.

Spurce LaureLt.—sSee Da'pune.

Sonn. ane

Sauirting Cucumber.—See Mo-
MO’RDICA.

Sra\cuys.—-Labidte.—-The Hedge
Nettle. Shrubby and herbaceous
plants, natives of Europe and North
America, which will grow freely in
any light rich soil, and which are
increased by cuttings or division of
the root.

STarF-TREE.—See Cexa’stRus.

Stac’s Horn.—See Ruv’s.

=> . ?
STATICE. 383 STERNBERGIA.
Sranno'rea. — Orchiddce@. —)\ and thus, when there is not a con-

Beautiful Orchideous plants, with | servatory for it to be planted in, it
large white flowers proceeding from | does better im the open border, with
the root. For the culture, see Or-| a slight protection during winter,
cHIDEOus EpipHyTes. | than in a pot ina greenhouse. The

Srapre‘L1a.— Asclepiddee.—Very soil in which it is grown should be
curious stove-plants, with showy | half sandy loam and half vegetable
flowers proceeding from the root,| mould. It is extremely difficult to
_which smell so much like carrion, | raise young plants by cuttings ; and
that flesh-flies have been known to though nurserymen contrive te
lay theireggs uponthem. As these | make layers, it is so difficult an
plants are very succulent, they are | operation, as to be scarcely practi
very apt to drop off, if they are cable by an amateur. The com-
grown in rich soil, or too much wa-/| mon kinds of Statice are generally
tered. They succeed best in sandy | increased by seeds, or by dividing
loam mixed with lime rubbish; and | the root; and they should be al-
they are propagated by cuttings, | lowed plenty of space, as they are
which should be laid on a shelf for | easily killed when crowded by other

two or three days to shrivel before
they are planted. The plants from
which the cuttings are taken should
be kept quite dry for some time af-
terwards, as they are apt to rot from
the wound. All the Stapelias are
natives of the Cape of Good Hope.

SrapuyLe‘a.—Celastrinee—The
Bladder Nut. Hardy shrubs, na-
tives of England and North Ameri-
ca, that will grow freely in any
common garden soil. The flowers
are white, and the seed, which is
brown, is produced ina large inflated
capsule or bladder. The seeds, when
bored, are used in Catholic coun-
tries for rosaries.

Star or BetHLexeM.—See Ornt-
THO'GALUM.—In the midland coun-
ties the large yellow Hypericum is
called the Star of Bethlehem.

Srarwort.—One of the English
names for the A’sTER.

Seance. Pita cginee. — Sea
Lavender. Singular plants, the foot-
stalks of the flowers of which are
coloured so as to resemble flowers,
while the real flowers are the white
part at the extremity of the purple.
‘The handsomest species belonging
to the genus is S. arbdrea, a native
of the Canaries, which is quite
shrubby. This splendid plant should
have plenty of room for its roots ;

| plants.
Srevxa‘ria. — Caryophy lee. —
| Stitchwort. Very pretty plants, with
white flowers, many of which are
| natives of Britain. They are all
quite hardy, but they grow best in
sandy soil. The dwarf kinds are
very suitable for rockwork. They
are propagated by seeds, which
they ripen freely, or by division of
the root.

Sreno‘cuis. — Composite. — S.
speciosa is a very showy perennial,
| with large and very handsome flow-
ers. It is a native of California,
and will grow in any common garden
soil. It is increased by seed, or by,
dividing the roots.

Steno'cuiLus. — Myoporinee. —
Australian shrubs, with scarlet flow-
ers, which should be grown in sandy
peat.

Srercu‘Lia. — Bytineridcee. —
Stove shrubs and low trees from the
East and West Indies, with greenish
or whitish flowers. They should be
grown in peat and loam, and they
are propagated by cuttings of the
ripe wood, not deprived of their
leaves, which should be struck in
sand, under a bell-glass, with bottom.
heat.

Srernse’roia. — Amaryllidacee.
Hae bulbs, with showy yellow

*

ee

.

« ™‘ \

STIRRING THE SOIL.

flowers; which only need planting | the

in the open border.

Ste'via.—-Composite.-—Mexican
“perennials with tufts of very pretty

white or pinkish flowers, which
should be grown in sandy peat, and
which require a little protection
during winter. S. Eupatorium is a
very pretty plant for filling a bed in
a geometric flower-garden, from its
compact habit of growth, and the
abundance of its flowers.

Sri\pa.— Graminee.—Stipa pin-
nata, the Feather-grass, is an ex-
tremely elegant plant which grows
freely in light rich soil, and is in-
creased by seed, or division of the
root.

STIRRING THE, SOIL is an operation
of considerable importance in the
case of all plants in a high state
of culture, and especially of young
plants. When soil is loosened to
the depth of even two or three
inches, it admits the air and the rain
beneath the surface; and both, in
this manner, convey their tempera-
ture to the soil, as well as their
nutritive qualities to the roots. It
is also remarkable, that though scil,
when loosened, is advantageous in
communicating a warmer tempera-
ture and moisture to what is bclow,
by admitting the air and the rain,
yet that in the heat of summer,
plants growing in a‘soil the surface
of which is kept loose, suffer less
either from excess in heat or the
want of rain, than plants in a soil
which is kept firm. This will also
apply to a certain extent to plants in
pots, though stirring the soil is of
far less importance to them than to
plai ts in the open ground; as the
heat of the surrounding atmosphere,
whether it be advantageous or inju-
rious, penetrates readily through the
sides of the pots, and the superfluous
moisture is exhaled in the same
manner. In stirring the soil among
plants in the open ground ‘it must,

however, be always remembered that
i al

STRAMONIUM.

ed, the full of roots, and therefore
he stirring must not be io

fork rather than with a spade, in
order that none of the roots may be
cut. The soil should never be stirred,
except when it is in a dry state, and
when rain is not expected ; because
should the seil be in a wet state
when it is moved, or should rain
occur immediately afterwards, it
will defeat the end in view, viz. that
of forming a porous-surface layer,
readily permeable by air and water.
STircuwort.—See STeLia‘ria.
Srock.—See Marur‘ona.
Srone-Crov.—-See Se‘pum.
Sroot.—A tree or shrub which
has its branches pressed down to
make layers.—See fig. 54.

|

Fig. 54.—A Stool with several of the aoe
layered. ;
4
Srorax.—See Sry‘rax. |
Srramo'nrum.—Solanécee.—The

Thorn Apple. Mag showy plants,
conspicuous ali their leaves, —
flowers, and fruit. They grow best —
in chalk or a calcareous loam; and
they are so completely hardy in
Britain, and grow so freely from —
seed, that the common kind has be-
come naturalized, and is frequently
found growing wild, When these
plants are grown in gardens, they
should be allowed plenty of room,
as their principal beauty is the wide-

*

a % . = , ; :
- sil Se
*
a e
STYLIDIUM. 385 SUCCULENT PLANTS.

spreading and luxuriant ch
of their fohage. +8

Srranva'sia. —— Rosdcee. —
new name for Crate‘gus giatca, an
evergreen tree, a native of Nepal,
with glaucous leaves, woolly be-

neath, and white flowers. It appears |

to be hardy, or very nearly so, and
it is very handsome. It is generally
propagated by grafting on the com-
mon Hawthorn.

Srrawserry Burire—See Burr-
TUM.

STRAWBERRY TREE.—See A’RBu-
TUS. .

Srrewi'tz1a. — Musdcee.—Mag-
nificent plants with large long leaves,
and very large and singular orange
and purple flowers. They are gene-
rally kept in a stove, but they will

flower im a greenhouse or room, if |

kept sufficiently moist. They should
be grown in light sandy loam. They
are very difficult to propagate, but
they sometimes send up suckers, and
sometimes ripen seeds.

Srrepta’NTHERA. — Iridee. —

Cape bulbs with very showy flow-
ers; which may either be grown in
pots, or in beds in the open air.—
See [’x1a.

Streproca’rrus. — Bignonidcee.
-A very handsome perennial plant
om South Africa, which requires a

stove in England ; but which when
properly treated produces its beau-
iful and elegant pale purple flowers
in great abundance. It is nearly

allied to Gloxinia, but it has twisted |

seed-pods. It should be grown in
equal parts ob at, loam, and sand;
and it is increased by seeds, which
it ripens freely.

Sruar?r1a.— Ternstremidcee.—

(A North American shrub or low tree,
“ ‘with large white flowers, nearly al-

ied to Malachodendron. It will

grow in any common garden soil

‘that is tolerably light, and it flowers

‘freely. It is propagated by layers, or

‘cuttings.—See ieidiie oe

Sryxiprum.— Stylidee.— Austra-
33

®.«

sept in a greethouse, with small

{pinkish or purple flowers, the sta-

i'mens of which are irritable, and
move when touched. All the spe-
| cies should be grown in sandy peat,
or heath-mould ; and the perennials
| are propagated by seeds or division
| of the root, and the shrubby species
by cuttings.
y’RAX. — Styracinee—Storax.
Ornamental shrabs, with white flow-
ers, natives of Europe and North
America ; which grow best in sandy
peat, or heath-mould, and flower
freely. They are propagated by
layers.

Succory.— Cichorium I'ntybus
is a British plaat, with brilliant
| blue flowers, which grows freely in
sandy soils, and which be
grown with the greatestitelis in
gardens. aes

SuccuLENT PLANTS are those
| which have both their stems and
leaves provided with so few stomata
or breathing-pores, as to be able to
retain a great portion of the moist-
|ure which is evaporated by other
plants. These plants are generally
natives of sandy deserts, where for
| half the year they are entirely des-
'titute of water, and where their
capability of retaining moisture is
‘necessary to keep them alive.
When grown in Europe, they are
well adapted for sitting-rooms, as
they are capable of bearing a
er degree of dryness in the air than
most other planis; but they are
'very liable to be mjured by too
much water, as in the cloudy at-
mosphere of England their stomata
|are not sufficiently numerous to
enable them to throw it off, and it
rots them, or, as gardeners express
|it, they damp off. All succulent
plants when grown in pots should
have abundant drainage, and should
never be suffered to stand with wa-
ter in the saucer; and the soil in
which | they are, grown, should be

PL $3 9 _ ae ae

* - *

t-*

7
re

SYMPiORIA.

336

TABERNZMONTANA.

mixed with sand or lime rubbish to | ous shrubs, which grow so freely in
keep it open, and in a state fit for| any common garden soil, and send
their roots to penetrate through it. | up so many suckers, that when once

“

which are shrubby at the base, but
herbaceous in the upper part of the
stem; such as the common Wall-
flower, the Brompton, or Queen
Stock, ibéris sempervirens, &c.
SuGAR-CANE.—See Sa/ccHaRumM.
Sumacu.—See Ruv’s. P
Summer Cypress.—See Ko’cuta.
SunNDEW.—See Dro’sera. %
SUNFLOWER.—See He.ia/NTHUS.
Sun-Rose.—See Heria/nTHemum.

SuTHERLA/NpIA. — Leguminosae. |

—A pea-flowered shrub, with scar-
let flowers, formerly called Colitea
frutéscens ; a Native of the Cape
of Good Hope, which is half-hardy
in British gardens, and which should
be grown in sandy loam.

Swainso'nia. — Legumindse. —
Pea-flowered shrubs, natives of
Australia, with purplish flowers,
which should be kept in a green-
house, and grown in heath mould.
—See AUSTRALIAN SHRUBS.

SwALLow-wort. — See AscLe'-
PIAS, and CHELIDO‘NIUM.

Sweet Bay.—See Lau‘rus.

Sweet Briztr.—sSee Ro'sa.

Sweet Gate.—See Myrrca.

Sweet Marsoram.—See Or1'Ga-
NUM.

Sweet Pea.—See La’tuyrus.

Sweer Potato.—Batatas edulis.
—A tuberous-rooted plant, former-
ly considered to belong to Convol-
vulus, then td Ipomea, but now
separated from both. It is a na-
tive of South America, where it is
called Batatas; and it requires a
stove in England.

Sweet Sop, or Custard Apple—
See Ano'na.

Sweet Sutran.—See AmBer-
Bo‘a, and CenTa’uREA. .

Sweer WituiaMm.—Didnthus bar-
batus—See Dia’/nruvs.

Symrxso'rnsa. — Caprifoliacee. —
St. Peter’s Wort. Bushy, decidu-

* . ee

SUFFRUTICOSE PLANTS are those} planted, it is difficult to eradicate

Betas The flowers of S. glome-
rdta are produced in clusters, and
the berries are small and reddish.

S. racemosus, the Snowberry, has.

| pinkish flowers, which are disposed
in such loose racemes as to appear
almost solitary ; and which are
succeeded by large white berries,
which are very ornamental. There
is another species, S. occidentalis,
with very large leaves, and droop-
ing racemes of flowers, which has
not yet been introduced. All the
kinds are natives of North America.
S. racemosus is sometimes grafted
on Lonicera Xyldésteum, to avoid
the inconvenience of its numerous
suckers.

Sympnorica’rpos. — Michaux’s
name for the Snowberry.—See Sym-
PHO'RIA. ”

SYNGENECIOUS PLANTS. — Plants
belonging to the 19th class of the
Linnean system, and the natural
order Composite.

Syri'nca.—-Oleine@.—-The Lilach.
Well-known deciduous shrubs, with
purplish or white flowers, natives of
Europe and the colder parts of A
and valuable in British shrubberies
for the early appearance of their
leaves in spring, and for the beauty
and fragrance of their flowers.
There are several species and va-
rieties, varying principally in the
colour of the flowers. They are
all quite hardy‘ British caries
and they will grow in any common
soil. ‘They are propagated by lay-
ers and suckers, which they pro-
duce in great abundance.

fie

P 4
TasernaMonta\na.—Apocy/nee.
—Trees and shrubs from the East
and West Indies, which require a

*

*

a

.

oi) RS. STERN on Se ce 387

bling those of the common Jasmine,
but are many times larger. They
should be grown in loam and peat;
and they are propagated by cut-
tings, which require a moist heat
to make them strike. —

Tacamanac.——The ‘Indian name
for the Balsam Poplar; a species
that should be cultivated in orna-
mental plantations for the beautiful
yellowish green of its leaves, which
appear very early in spring.

Tacso\n1a. — Passiflordcee. —
Climbing plants, nearly allied to the
Passion Flower, with pinkish flow-
ers and golden, ball-like fruit. They
are generally kept in a stove, but
they will both grow and flower freely |
in greenhouse-heat. They should
be grown in sandy loam and peat,
and they are propagated by cut-
tings.

Ta'ceres. — Compésite. — The

rench and African Marigolds.
\w ell-known half-hardy annuals with
showy flowers that have a very
disagreeable smell. The seeds are
generally sown on a slight hotbed,
and transplanted in May. *
Sapa ma.— Magnolidcee.— Low
s and shrubs from Java and
other parts of the East Indies, with
very fragrant white flowers, nearly
allied to the Magnolias. The plants
uid be grown in loam and peat
if kept in the stove, and they may
be propagated by layers and cut-
tings; but by inarching them on
Magnolia purptrea, they may be
brought to flower in a conservatory
or greenhouse.

Taxi'num. — Portulacee. — Suc-
culent plants, shrubby and peren-
nial, mostly natives of the West
Indies, and with dark red or purple
flowers. They should be grown in
sandy peat with a litle loam, and
they require but little water. They
are propagated by cuttings.

Tatuses for plants—are of vari-

te

*

stove in England. They have gen- ous fond. "Phey Have obits Wilds? acelin “us tho: plan ace
erally white fragrant flowers, resem- | is large or small, grown in the open

TALLIES.
as the plant

air or under a glass, and according
as the object is of a permanent or
temporary nature. ‘Tallies for trees,
as in the case of an Arboretum,
which is to endure for many years,
are formed of iron, stone, or brick ;
those for herbaceous plants, of iron

or Sod those for plants, in
Bott kept in houses, of porcelain,
wood, lead, zinc, and sometimes,

th rarely, of iron. ‘Tallies for
plants kept Ee rich ia i Ss, are
commonly of wood, on ak
tle white paint is rubbed with the
finger, and the name written with
a black-lead pencil ; those for plants
taken up and packed to be sent to
a distance, are commonly of parch-
ment, with the name w in
ink ; but nursery labels are formed
of woed and tied to trees, or of
pieces of lead stamped with num-
bers. The object i in every case con-
nected with the nursery business is
simply to identify the species or
variety; but in the ease of private
gardens, it is not only to do this,
but to produce an object that shall
not be unsightly in a garden. For
this latter purpose, porcelain tallies
(fig. 55), which are formed of vari-

Fig. 55.—Porcelain Tally for Pots.

ous sizes ma shaps, are best for
pots ; and tallies of cast-iron, with
panels for ane ee the
names, to be red with glass

(fig. 56), are ‘ee st ee ert for
plants in the open ground. Where

it is not desired to display the nam,
the simplest and least expensive

a lit-

¢

TALLIES. 388 TAMARIX.

mode is to mark a number on a| proper sizes, at the zinc manufac-
-_— wood tally or stick, and this may| turers.
done either by notching the stick] TaLLow-rree. — Stillégia sebi-
with a knife, which is the common | fera.—A stove plant, which should
oracles among gardeners; or by | be grown in peat and loam. It be-
oo longs to Euphorbiacee.
Tamarinp Tree.—See Tama-

Ry'/NDUS. Pe
Tamari nbs. — Leguminose. —
The Tamarind Tree. There are

two kinds of Tamarinds; T.7indica,

a native of the East Indies,- with

~ yellow flowers striped with red, and

T. occidentalis, a native of the

West Indies, the flowers of which

are white. Both kinds, however,

very rarely flower in this country,

probably because the trees have not

sufficient room for their roots. The

plants may be raised from seeds of

preserved Tamarinds sown in a

hotbed; and they are worth grow-

ing for their handsome foliage.

: c They require a strong heat and a

. ‘ies 56.—CastLron or Zine Tally sicia cli ae and they am be sup-

plied with plenty of water. The

cutting a portion of it smooth, rub-| soil should be composed of equal

bing»it with a little white lead| parts of fresh turfy loam and vege-

. (white paint), and writing the num-| table mould or rotten dung, with a

; = ber while it is yet moist with a} little sand or peat, and these ingre-

, black-lead pencil. Of all the dif-| dients should be well mixed together
ferent modes which have hitherto] before the compost is.used. Yo

been devised of naming or number- plants may also be raised from éut-

ing plants in gardens (and they| tings, which strike freely im sand

amount, perhaps, to hundreds), the| with the help of bottom-heat.

mode by a stick, white lead, and a Ta marix.—- Tamariscinee.—-The

e black-lead pencil, is, perhaps, the|'Tamarisk. Tall shrubs, mostly na-

best for private gardens; and it is,| tives of Europe, which are sub-

undoubtedly, by far the cheapest.| evergreen, and useful in withstand-

In numbering or naming plants in| ing the sea-breeze. A great many

a garden, where good taste ought| species are enumerated in bogies

- to preside, it must always be recol-| but only two are common in Bri-

lected that the means ought to be|tish gardens. These are Tamarix

kot subordinate to the end, and! gallica, the French Tamarisk ; and

that the names of plants should in| 7’, germanica, L. (Myriecaria ger-

: no private garden be more conspi-| mdnica, Desv.), the German Tama-

cnous than t ts themselves. | risk. The French Tamarisk is by

ms The ‘ches of ‘Tally is a| far the handsomest, and as it will
& thin strip” ne, painted with! thrive close to the e, and :
» white-lead, and. then written on| produces its long term pikes of :
. witha lead-pencil ; and these strips| pinkish flowers ine nn, when

of zinc maybe had cut into the] people generally visit the coast, it

er =e ~« &

%

m » ;

TAN. 389 TANGIER PEA.

is a most valuable shrub for the | ‘afterwards mixed with new. To
gardens of sea-port towns. It should - prolong the heat in tan by diminish-
be grown in a deep sandy soil, and ing the intensity of the fermenta-
it is propagated by cuttings taken tion, common salt is sometimes
off in autumn. | added ; and to increase the formes
Tamus. — Dioscoridcee, or Ta-| _ tation, " yeast, though rather an
mee.—'The Black Bryony. See _perisive material, is sometimes mix-
Bryony. The Black Bryony be- ed with it. The heat of the tan-bed
longs to the same ‘al order as | should generally exceed the heat of
the Yam. For the Elephant’s-foot, | the atmosphere of the house by from
which was formerly Decaxidlened to | 3°. to TOR) according to circum-
belong to the genus Tamus, see | stances; and it should seldom be
‘TESTUDINA'RIA. | lower than 60°,.or higher than 75°
Tan.—The bark ef Oak or of | or 80°. In general, a tan-pit or
other trees, after it has been used | bed requires to be turned three or
by tanners. When it is received | four times a year; and if salt is
by gardeners from the tan-pits, it is | sprinkled over it each time, the fer-
generally wet and without heat;| mentation will be so far retarded
but after it has been laid in a ridge | that the bed will retain its heat for
in an open shed for two or three | atwelvemonth. For the purpose of
weeks, and turned over two or three | growing Pine Apples or large hot-
times, it becomes drier and begins | house plants, Oak or other leaves,
to ferment, when heat is evolved in | or even dung, may be substituted
a greater or less degree according | for tan; but for the purpose of
to the size of the mass. In this | striking pecans the is greatly pre-

state it is fit to be introduced into | ferable, because eat produced
pits or beds = hothouses for the pur- | is not accompanied with so much
pose of supplying bottom-heat. For | moisture, and hence the cattnge
ordinary purposes the bed or layer | are not liable to be damped off.

of tan need not be thicker than | situations where tan or leaves ee
eighteen inches or two feet, but | not be procured, sawdust is an ex-
_ when a very powerful heat is re-| cellent substitute, and even the
gered: double that thickness is de- | husks of oats. Sawdust is an ex-
‘sirable. The pots in which the plants | cellent medium for the striking Epa-
are contained, when large, should | cridee and the Cape Heaths; the
at first not be plunged more than | heat being more gentle and regular

half their depth in the tan; oreven,|than with most other fermenting
in some cases, they should be set | substances. When tan has lost the
on its surface. But after the first | greater part of its heat, it then forms
violent heat has subsided, they may | an excellent medium for stnking
be plunged to the brim. When the | fleshy-leaved plants, such as Bro-
heap begins to cool, in consequence | melia, which require rather a dry
of the fermentation diminishing, the | heat, and a medium which under-
tan may be turned over and the| goes the Jeast possible = in
pots replunged, adding a little fres to moisture.

tan, if necessary, to keep the pit to|. Tanace’rum.— Composite. —The
the proper degree of fulness. When | Tansy. Herbaceous plants, which
the heat subsides a second time, the | are quite h any common
tan may be again turned and a| garden soil, and sh are increased
larger on of fresh terial | by dividing ‘oots
acded thd the third if aoan TANGIER PEs dthyrus Tingi
tar, may sifted in turning, and | ténus—See La'THYRUS.

33*

a

vy ana

4 . .!
of" - wok

‘%

TELOPEA.

—_—-——

Tansy.—See Tanace‘tum.

Taxo'pium. — Conifere. — See
Decrpuous Cypress.

Ta xus.—Conifere. — The Yew.

tree to be noticed here; but the
Irish Yew, from its erect form and

_broad leaves, makes a very hand-

TESTUDINARIA.
are said to h been one cause
why the®coast of New South Wales

was distingui i by its first visitors

as Botany Bay, i in allusion to the
e common Yew is too large a!

some plant, which, from the slow- |

ness of its growth, may for a long
time be almost considered a shrub.
There are also some Japan aad
Chinese species (some of which are
now included in the genus Podo-
carpus,) which are very orna-
mental. They will all grow in any
garden soil, and are raised from
seeds.

Teak Woop.—See Tecro'na.

Tea Tree—See Tue‘a. The

it abundance of light and air.

Duke of Argy le’s Tea-tree, Ly'cium |
barbarum, is often called the Tea- |

tree in gardens, from mistake——Sce
Lycium.

Tecoma. — Bignonidcee.— The
Trumpet Flower. All the species
which now compose the genus Te-
coma were formerly well known
under the name cf Bignonia, par-
ticularly 7. radicans, the common
Trumpet-flower, which. is quite
hardy in British gardens, and T.
grandiflora, which is nearly so.
Some of the species require a green-
house, and some a stove; but they
all grow freely in a rich, light,
loamy soil, and they are all propa-
gated by cuttings of the roots.

Tecro' na. Verbenacee. — The |

Teak-wood. T.

almost the only tree in that country
fit for ship-building. In England,
however, it is a stove-plant, which
requires a strong heat to make it
grow. It should be grown in loam
and peat, and it is propagated by

cuttings. The flowers are white.
Trio’ pea. — Proteicee. — The
Warratah. The ~ brilliant scarlet |
flowers of this plant, which are con-
spicuous even'at "a | great distance,
a J
%- “

S *

grandis is a tim- |
ber-tree in the East Indies, and |

great accession to botany likely to
be derived from a country where
the plants appeared so different to
those of Eurepe. The flower of the
Warratah may be compared to a
gigantic head of clover of the most
intense and brilliant scarlet; but it
is not common in England, proba-
bly because it is a very difficult
plant to manage. The first point
to be attended to is to have the pot
in which it is grown thoroughly
well drained; and the next, to allow
It is
generally kept in a stove in Eng-
land; but it succeeds better in a
greenhouse, at least during the sum-
mer months; as it is very apt to
become covered with insects if it is
kept all the year in a hothouse. It
is propagated by cuttings or suck-
ers, which it throws up in abun-
dance; and it should be grown in
heath-mould, mixed with white sand
and a little loam. It should be
regularly watered in the flowering
season ; but it may be kept almost
dry during the winter months.
TemreLeto nia.—Leguminos@. —

Australian shrubs, with red pea —
flowers, which require a greenhouse

in England, and which should be
grown in sandy peat.

Teno’nts.— Umbellifere. — The
shrubby species of Hare’s Ear.—
See BupLeu‘rem.

TENTHRE'DO. —See SaWFLy.

Trestupina’rta. — Dioscéree. —
Elephant’s-foot, or Hottentot Bread.

A very singular plant, with an’

enormous scaly root above ground,
from which issues a slender stem,
with small flowers. The plant is a
native of the Cape, from which

country the roots are frequently re-

ceived. It should have a n of
complete repose, without water
being given to it when it ebin a

THALICTRUM.

growing state; and it should be|
grown ina mixture of equal parts of
turfy loam, peat, and sand; the
large, scaly root being placed on the
surface of the soil, and not buried
init. The earth in the pot should
be then watered and kept moist till
the fibrous roots begin to appear,
after which less water should be
given till the slender stem appears,
when the soil in the pot should be
watered regularly and abundantly ;
but no water should ever be poured
on the scaly root. The flowers are
diecious, and have never yet pro-
duced seed in England. The sub-
stance of the scaly root is farina-
ceous, and it is said to be used by
the Hottentots as food. The plant
has never been propagated in Eng-
land; all the plants grown in this
country having been received in
the state of dry roots from the

Cape.
Te'vcrium. — Labidte. — The
Germander. Hardy, half-hardy,

and tender, perennial, biennial, an-
nual, and shrubby plants, the smaller
kinds of which are suitable for
rockwork. Some of the kinds are
showy border flowers; and others
handsome greenhouse shrubs, par-
ticularly those that are natives of
Madeira. T°. Betonicum is perhaps
ne of the best of these, as it has
.oose spikes of fragrant crimson
fiowers. All the species require a
light rich soil; and they are propa-

of the roots, according to their re-
spective kinds.

Tuaura.—Canne.—T. dealbata
is an aquatic plant, a native of South
Carolina, with very curious black
and white fragrant flowers. It is
about as hardy as Calla ethidpica,
and requires the same treatment.—
See A‘rum.

Tual'ctrrum— Ranunculicee.—
Meadow Rue. Perennial plants,
natives of Europe and North Ame-
rica, whieh are quite hardy in Bri-

=

391

Se eee

gated by seeds, cuttings, or division
I

THEA.

tish gardens. TJ. aquilegifolium
and its varieties are very showy
border-flowers ; and TJ. alpinum,
and some other dwarf species, are
elegant plants for rockwork. 'They
all grow freely in any common gar-
den soil.

THATCHING is sometimes applied
as a protection to half-hardy trees
in the open ground. Many half-

Fig. 57.—Protettine half-hardy Trees by
‘hatching. —

hardy trees and shrubs may be pro-
tected from any danger from frost
by laying straw over the roots and
collar of the stem, and then thatch-
ing it, as shown in fig. 57.

Tue'a.—Ternstremidcee.—Ever-
green half-hardy shrubs, natives of
China, and nearly allied to the Ca-
mellia, from which indeed they differ
only slightly in the capsule. They
are only half-hardy in British gar-
dens. Théa Bohéa, indeed, requires
protection every winter; but T.
viridis will live in the open air with
very slight protection (such as laying
straw, &c., over the roots) in severe
frosts. The flowers of both kinds
resemble those of small single white
Camellias; and they are cultivated
more from the curiosity which most

~*~ = a

perspaey feel to see the plants pro-

Se. t

re
F

ek

my

THRIFT.

ducing tea, than from any real
beauty they possess.

HEorRO'MA. — Byttneridcec. —
The Cocoa-nut Tree. ‘The trce,
from the nuts of which cocoa and
chocolate are prepared, comes very
appropriately after the Tea ‘Tree.
‘There are three species, all natives
of South America, with brownish
flowers ; all of which require a stove
in England, and should be grown in
light rich soil.

“Taeopura’sTA. — Apocy'nee. —
Stove plants with very handsome
leaves and white flowers. They are
grown in loam and peat, and they
are propagated by cuttings.

THERMOMETER. — No amateur
should attempt to grow plants in a
greenhouse or stove, or even in a
hotbed, without being provided with
a thermometer to regulate the degree
of heat. A very ingenious one with
a long tube for plungi: ng into the
ground, has been contrived for as-
certaining the heat of a hotbed or
tan-pit.

Tuermo’psis. — Legumindse. —
Herbaceous plants with yellow flow-
ers, naive Europe and North
America, which should be grown in
very rich soil, but which are quite
hardy in the open air in Britain.
There is one ligneous species, T'her-
mopsis laburnifolia, D. Don, (Ana-
gy ris indica, Willd.,) but it is now
generally called Piptanthus nepa-
lénsis. (See Pipra'ntuus.) None
of the species belonging to this ge-
nus will thrive unless they are grown
in.very rich mould.

TuisTLeE.—See Ca’rpvuus.

Tuoma'sia. — Bytineridcee. —
Pretty little Australian shrubs, for-
merly called Lasiopétalum. They

‘should be grown in sandy peat, and

kept in a greenhouse.

THoRN AppLe.—See Daru‘ra and
STRAMO'NIUM.

Tur rt.—Sidtice Arméiria, Lin.;

Armeria vulgaris, Willd—Sece Ar-
ME'RIA.
hs
. | whee
+

392

THUSA.

Turirs.— Very small flies, not
above My in lengih, and which
seem rather to leap than to fly away
when it is attempted to catch them ;
throwing up the lower part ef their
bodies at the same time, as though
they curled themselves up to take a
spring. ‘They are very destructive,
and attack both leaves and petals,
causing both to curl up, and after-
wards to turn yellow and drop off.
The larve are nearly as large as the
perfect insect, and of a pale yellow;
and the insect itself is first yellow-
ish, but afterwards becomes black.
As soon as the rayages of these
little creatures are perceived,
plants they have attacked oui
well and frequently syringed,
exposed as much as possible to the
free air; hand-picking in their case
being of little avail, from the very
small size of the insects and their
extraordinary activity.
Trroatwort.—See TRACHE'LIUM.
Tuu‘sa.— Conifere.—The Arbor
Vite. ‘There are two kinds of Arbor
Vitze common in British gardens, the
American (Thija occidentilis), and
the Chinese (J’. orientdlis), both
having several varieties. rhe
rican species is an open-growing tree,
with horizontal branches; and in
America, where it is called the
White Cedar, it grows in swamps.
The Chinese Arbor Vite, on the
contrary, is a close-growing tree,
with upright branches, and should
be grown in a dry soil. Both are
quite hardy in the climate of Londen,
and both are propagated by layers
and cuttings ; the former taking two
years to root, and the latter being
very difficult to strike. Besides these
there are several other species, most
of which require a greenhouse or
protection during winter. The prin-
cipal of these are Thija pendula
and T’, articulata, Desf. (Callitris
quadrivatvis, Veut.); the latter
species, which is a native of Mount
Atlas, in Barbary, producing the

THUNBERGIA.

393

THYSANOTUS.

gum Sandarach, and being the cele- | but these insects seldom appear upon

brated Spanish wood Alerce which
‘is so hard that it is said to resist
fire, and of which the cathedral of
Cordova was built. It is also sup-
posed to have been the sandal-wood
of the ancients. [The foregoing
remarks, respecting the habits of the
American Arbor Vite, do not apply
to this tree as seen in many parts of
the northern States, where it grows in
great abundance on dry lime-stone
hills, and forms in its natural state

the most symmetrical dense cones |

of verdure from the ground, to thirty
or forty feet in height. Planted as
a hedge, we have found it to answer
admirably ; as it forms by its natural
growth, without the least trimming,
an impervious screen at all seasons.
The white cedar of our swamps,
generally known by this name, is
the Cupréssus thyoides.—Eb.|
Tuunse’raia. — Acanthacee. —
The beautiful climbing plants gene-
rally known by this name differ very
much in the colour of their flowers,
though very little in their shape.
Some botanists divide them into
three genera. JT. Hawtaynedna,
with dark-purplish flowers, they call
Meyenia ; and of T. coccinea, with
three other nearly-allied species,
they have formed the genus Hexa-
centris ; while they leave T. grandi-
fléra, with dark blue flowers, 7’.
fragréns, the flowers of which are
white and sweet-seented, 7. awran-
tidea, with orange flowers, and 7".
alata, with buff flowers, with its
white-flowered variety, in the genus
Thunbergia. J. alata and T. au-
rantiadca, which is probably only a
darker-coloured variety, are the most
common of these kinds, and they
may be grown either as stove or
greenhouse climbers, or as half-hardy
annuals. 7’. aldta is a native of

it when it is grown in the open air.
When treated as an annual, the
seeds should be sown in January on
a slight hotbed, or ina sheltered
situation in the open ground. The
best soil for them is equal parts of
peat and silver sand, to which a
little veretable mould may be added.
The soil should be kept moist, but
it should be well drained, as the
plants will perish if either kept too
dry or suffered to have their roots in
stagnant water. When planted in
the open air, where they are finally
to remain, the long shoots should be
pegged down at the joints all over
the bed; and thus treated they will
send up innumerable flower-stalks,
so as to make the whole bed appear
a mass of flowers. TJ. aurantidca
may be treated in the same manner ;
but 7. a. albiflora is rather more
tender, and appears generally to
succeed better ina greenhouse than
in the open air. When these plants
are grown in a stove, and beset with
the red spider, the only way to de-
stroy it is to syringe them» with water
heated to 120°. Th ler species
of Thunbergia are ate kept in
the stove, and I believe have never
been treated as annuals, though
most of them seed freely. They
are grown in loam and peat, and
are propagated by cuttings.

Tuyme.—See 'Try‘mus.

Tuy'mus._Labidte—-The Thyme.
Fragrant dwarf shru ery suita-
ble for rockwork. TJ. grandiflora
is, perhaps, the most ornamental.
They should be grown in light rich
soil, and are increased by dividing
the root. ;

Tuysano‘tus. — Asphodélee. —
Australian plants, with very singu-
larly frmged flowers. The flowers
expand about eight o’clock in the

the East Indies, and when treated
as either a greenhouse or a stove
plant, it is very apt to be covered

with the red spider (segupcanve) ;

morning, and they close at two,
never remaining unclosed longer

than six hours. They are grown
in “& greenhouse or stove, in sandy

“a

TONQUIN BEAN.

loam and peat; and, like all the |
Australian plants, care should be
taken net to let them suffer from |
any excess, either of drought or
moisture. They are propagated
either by division of the root, or by
seed.

Ticer FLrower.—See Ticrr'pia.

Tieri'pia.—IJridee.—The Tiger
Flower. ‘The commonest species
of this splendid bulb was formerly |
called Ferraria Tigridia, but it is
now changed to Tigridia pavonia ;
there is a variety called T. p. leone,
and a second species called T. con-
chiflora. They are all extremely
handsome, producing abundance of
their magnificent flowers in the open
ground, which, however, are very
short-lived, seldom remaining ex- |
panded more than a few hours. The
plants are natives of Mexico, and |
the bulbs may be suffered to remain
in the ground all the year, if they |
can be kept dry ; there being more
danger of their being destroyed by |
wet than frost. The best mode of |
treating them is perhaps that re- |
commended for the Ixia. (See.

I'xra.) # i
TILE-RooT.—See GEISSORHI'ZA.
Titua’npsia. — Bromelidcee. —

Very curious stove-plants, most of |
which are parasitical, and may be |
treated like the stove Orchidacee. |
(See Orcuipeous Erreyytes.) The |
uthers may be potted in a mixture |
of peat and loam, and propagated |
by suckers. They have all showy
flowers, which they produce abun-
dantly.
Toap-FLax.—See Lina‘ria.
Togacco.—See NicoTia\na.
Toxris——See HawkweEep.
Tonquin Bean.—Dipterix odo-
rdta, Schreb—(Baryosma Toéngo,
Gert.)-—A leguminous plant, of no
beauty in its flowers, which are
purple, but cultivated for its bean-
like seeds, which are remarkably
fragrant. It is a native of Guiana, |

waere it is a tall tree; “——

394

ers, which require to be kep
greenhouse, and grown in

| well on rockwork.

_Hothouse and greenhouse shrubs

_als, natives of South America. T.

TOURNEFORTIA.

quires a stove in England, where it

\may be grown in a compost of peat

and loam. 4

ToorHaCHE-TREE. —- Sec Xan-
THO XYLON. =:

Toriary.— The art of cutting
yews and other trees into curious
shapes, by putting a wire frame-
work over them, and then clipping
the trees into the desired form. This
art was practised to such an extent
in ancient Rome, that the word for
topiarist was used as synonymous
with that for gardener.

Tore nia. — Scrophularinee. —
Australian plants with pretty flow-

loam. One species is a half-h

annual, which may be raised on a

hotbed, and planted out in May.
Torre'ya.—Conifere.— A very

'handsome evergreen tree, a native

of Florida, in North America, near-
ly allied to the yew, and forming a
link between that tree and the hem-
lock spruce. =
Tormenti'LLa.—Rosdcee.—Brit-. ©
ish plants with yellow flowers, oe a:
which, though weeds, look very
The double.
flowered variety of T. erecta is:
ornamental. ;
To’rtuLa.—Cryptogamia Mise
—Wall-moss. A kind of mo
very useful im making moss-hous
from the brightness and variety of —
its colours; some of the species
being a dark-blue green, others of a
rich yellowish green, others of a
very pale pea-green, and one of a
dark rich brown. They are all
common in Britain.
‘Toucu-ME-Not.—See Impa‘rrens.
Tournero'rt1a. — Boraginee—

-

and hardy and half-hardy perenni

Messerschmidia is a greenhe
shrub, with very fragrant flowers,
which have no beauty; and J.
heliotropioides is a half-hardy pe- —

* *%
Fe

“

“

ror &

vw

»

_e grown in any garden soil.

TRAGOPYRUM.

rennial, strongly resembling the
Heliotrope in its flowers, but with-
out any fragrance. They are all
free-growing plants in sandy loam,
and they are propagated by cut-
tings.

TRACHE Lium. — Campanuldcee.
—Throatwort. The most common
species, 7. cerileum, is a half-
hardy biennial, which requires to be
raised on a hotbed, kept in a frame
during winter, and planted out in
spring, where it is to flower in rich
mould.

Tracuy mMEe‘Ng. — Umbellifere. —
Australian shrubs, requiring a green-
house. For the beautiful annual
species, 7. ceritlea, see Dipiscus.
‘Trapesca'nt1a.—Commelinee.—
Spiderwort. Handsome herbaceous
plants, the common kinds of which
only require planting in the open
ground, and inany common garden
soil. There are, however, several
hothouse plants belonging to the
genus, and two or three Mexican
or South American annuals, which

all require a light soil, enriched with
_ rotten dung, or vegetable mould.

Tracoro'con. — Composite. —

_ Goat’s Beard. Ornamental biennial

plants, natives of Europe, which
only require to receive the common
treatment of similar plants, and to
Of

the British species, the most re-

“markable are 7’. praténsis, the pop-

ular name of which is Go-to-bed-at-
noon, from the flowers closing in
the middle of the day, and which
has large yellow flowers, and a very
curious feathery head of seeds; and
T. porrifolius, the common Salsafy,
which has purple flowers, and the
roots of which are occasionally
dressed as a vegetable.

_ Tracory‘rum. — Polygénee. —

_ Goat’s Wheat. Ornamental shrubby
_ plants, with pink flowers, natives
of Europe and America, which
~ suould be grown in yery sandy
loam, or heath-meuld.

*

395

TREE CARNATION.

TRAINING is an important opera-
tion, whether it be applied to nail-
ing trees against a wall, or to train-
ing herbaceous plants over an iron
or wooden frame-work. Climbing
Roses may be trained as pyramids
by fixing a pole with three legs, or
three poles, in the ground and sus-
pending hoops from them, as shown
in fig. 58, and this mode of training

Fig. 58.—Modes of ——— Roses, &c., to

form Pyrami

may be applied to various other
plants. Plants in pots may be
trained by fixing a number of sticks
or pins of iron, with hooks attached
(a) in the earth, in the pot, and
resting hoops on them, as shown in
jig. 59.

Tra'pa. —Hydrocharidee—Wa-
ter Caltrops. Aquatic plants, na-
tives of Europe and the East In-
dies, with white flowers, and very
curious nuts, which, when cooked,
rescmble in taste those of the chest-
nut, and are equally wholesome.
The rhizoma should be planted, or
the seeds sown, in loamy soil, at the
bottom of the water in which the
plant is to grow.

TRAVELLER’s Joy.—Clématis Vi-
talba.

Tree Carnation.—Didnthus ar-
béreus is in its wild state probably

ake

es

-*

Ae a ee

TREE

MALLOW.

KO eee oe

Fig. 59.—Modes of Training Plants in Pots.

only the common Carnation, which
has been trained against a wall,
and, by being kept continually
growing, has been forced to take
the character of a tree. It should
be planted in calcareous loam,
against an east or west wall, and
carefully trained, giving it a little
protection in case of severe frosts.
Tree Marrow. — Lavatéra. —
Besides the common annual species
of Lavatera, there are nine or ten
species which are shrubby, and one
of which, Z. phenicea, a native of

the Canary Isles, is a tree ten feet |

high. JL. maritima is the common.
est kind; and as this is a native
of Spain and the south of France,
it will thrive in the open air in
England, if slightly protected during
severe frosts. J. triloba, L. subo-
vata, and L. africéna, have all the
same degree of hardiness, and they

will all live and flower in British |

gardens, if about the same care be
bestowed on them as is usually
given to the tree Peony. L O'lbia,

TRIFOLIUM.

with reddish flowers, Z. Pseido-
O'lbia, with pale purple flowers,
| L. unguiculaia, and L. hispida, are
all shrubby species, which require
a greenhouse, and should be grown
| in loam and peat.
Trerort.—See Triro‘Lium.
Treme'Lua.—Cryptogamia Fun-
i.—There are several species now
called Achimenes, and of these 7.
coccined, Which is the most com-
mon, is perhaps better ‘known as
Cyrilla pulchéila. It is a dwarf
shrub with bright scarlet flowers,
which it produces in September ;
and it should be kept either in a
stove or in a warm greenhouse, the
heat of which is ll 60 and 7
degrees. It should be grown in a
compost formed of equal parts of
loam, peat, and sand, enriched with
rotten cowdung or vegetable mould,
and it should be well and frequently
syringed with warm water, to keep
it clear of insects. When it is
much infested with them, it will be
advisable to heat the water to 120
degrees. It is propagated by divid-
ing the roots in February, taking
care not to bruise them ; or by cut-
tings of the points of the shoots”
taken off in August; and in both
cases the plants are much improved _
by frequently shifting them asthe

pots fill with reots, and always into

which the plants were growing.
Thus treated, the plants will become
compact little bushes, and will flower
abundantly. One of the new
kinds of Achimenes has very large
dark-blue flowers, and is a most
splendid plant.

Tricnome \na.—Iridee—-Bulbous
plants, with fine hair-like stems, re-
quiring the usual treatment of Cay
bulbs. See Ixia.

Tricosa’NTHES.—
See Snake Gourp.

Triro‘Lium— Leguminose@.—-
Clover, or Trefoil. "Those who
scent to consider the Trefoi

. -

ucurbitacee.—-—
C cee.—-

*

eh

| pots only alittle larger than thosem = ™

See

Bane |

= 's tao

—— - —-

TROPZOLUM. 397 TROPOLUM.

as only the common clover of the | themselves in autumn. There were
meadows, will probably be surprised formerly only two kinds of the an-
to find that there are nearly a hun- | nual Tropeclums, 7. mejor and 7.
dred and fifty species, all more or! minor; but since 1830, several va-
less ornamental. Some of these | rieties have been raised. One with
are perennials and some annuals; | very dark flowers, is called 7. m.
and the colour of their flowers va- | atrosanguineum, and another with
ries from dark crimson, and some-/| dark stripes is 7. m. vemistum.

times scarlet, to purple on the one
hand, and to white, cream-colour,
and pale yellow on the other.

Tri LLium.— Melanthacee.—Tu-
berous-rooted plants, generally with
dark brown or reddish fiowers,
which have a remarkably rich and
velvet-like appearance.

natives of North America, and
they should all. be grown in shady
places, in sandy peat kept moist.
Thus treated they will flower freely,
and their flowers will have a very
rich and singular effect.

Trieri LLon.—Composite.—Chi-
lian annuals, which are hardy in
Brita, and worth growing for their
curious feathery seeds.

Trista nia. — Myrtdcee. — Aus-
tralian shrubs, nearly allied to. Me-
laleuca ; which require a greenhouse
in England. They should be grown
in sandy peat, and they are propa-
gated by cuttings.

Triro\nia. — Lridee. — Bulbous
plants with splendid flowers, which
will thrive in the open ground for

“many years without taking up, if

grown in dry sandy soil, or pro-

- tected from rain during winter. See

I’xta.

Tro’Luivs. — Ranunculécee. —
The Globe flower is a British plant
frequently grown in gardens, but on
which cultivation appears to have
had no effect. There are some
exotic species.

Trop oLum. — Tropeoldcee. —
The Garden Nasturtium. The well-
known annual plants called the
Nasturtium are common in every
garden, and only require sowing
with the other hardy annuals in

spring; they may be suffered to sow
ear a i

z
~»

They are |

The young shoots of these plants
are succulent, and taste like the
common land eress, the botanical
iname of which is Nasturtium, and
_ hence they have received:their popu-
‘lar name. Besides the hardy annual
kinds, there are several half-hardy
species, most of which are kept in
the greenhouse. The best known
|of these is Trape‘olum tricolérum,
with red, black, and yellow flowers,
which has tuberous roots, and such
very weak and slender stems, that
it is found necessary always to train
them over a wire frame, as they are
quite unable to support themselves.
In Paxton’s Magazine of Botany,
it is stated that the tuber of the
root should not be buried, but only
plaeed on the surface of the soil, so
that the fibrous roots may penetrate
hate ris, he says, will enlarge the
bulb or tuber in “a truly astonish-
ing manner,” and though the plants
will not appear healthy the first
season, they will afterwards become
extremely vigorous. He also re-
commends using double pots for
these plants, and filling up the intor-
stices with river sand, which should
always be kept moist. 7. brachy-
céras may be treated in the same
manner; and it would probably
succeed with 7. tuberosum, a spe-
cies which it is very difficult to
throw into flower under ordinary
treatment; but which grows best
in the open ground, im rich soil,
and with plenty of air and light.
T. peregrinum, the Canary Bird
flower, was formerly considered a
greenhouse plant, but it is now
found much better to treat it asa

half-nardy annual, raising the seeds *

?

4
*

%,

TULIPa.

on a hotbed and -planting them out
in May, near some treilis work, or
other support, which the plant will
soon cover in the most graceful
manner, producing thousands of its
elegant fringe-like pale-yellow fiow-
ers. For the culture of Trope'o-
lum pentaphy'llum, see Cuymoca’'R-
PUS.

True Service—Pyus Sorbus,
or Sérbus doméstica.

Trumret Frower.—See Bicno'-
nia and Teco‘ma.

Tuser.—Tubers closely resemble
in their nature what are called solid
bulbs or corms, and appear to be
reservoirs of nourishment which
have been laid up by nature for the
support of the infant plant. Some
tubers have numerous buds in dif-
ferent parts of their substance, like
the potato, and others have only

buds in the upper part like the |

Dahlia, and Ranunculus.
Tuserose.—See Poxta'NTHES.
Touxie.—sSee 'Tu'iipa.

Tua. — Tulipacee. — The
Tulip. The greater part of the
Tulips grown in gardens are varie-
ties of one species, Tulipa Gesne-
ridna, a native of the Levant; but
there are several other distinct spe-
cies. One of the most beautiful of
these is the wild French Tulip, 7.
sylvéstris, which is most elegantly
shaped, of a beautiful yellow, and
very fragrant, and which is occa-
sionally found wild in England.
T. 6culus sdlis is an Italian species,
and 7’. pre\cox, Van Tho)’s Tulip,
is a dwarf plant that flowers very
early in the season, generally in
March or April. Besides these there
are twelve other species, quite dis-
tinct. The garden varieties of T.
Gesneridna are divided into four
classes, the first containing the Bi-
zatres, which have a yellow ground
shaded with dark-brownish red or
purple, and which are subdivided
into the flaked, in which the dark

~ colour is in a broad stripe or band,

>

;

398

TULIPA.

rising from the bottom of the petal ;

and the feathered, in which the

dark colour forms a marginal edging
to the petals, descending into them
in various little delicate feathery
veins. The second class contains
the Byblemens, which are white
shaded with violet or dark purple,
and which are also subdivided into
flaked and fe 2 The third
class are ¢ Roses, and they
have white grounds shaded with
Rose colour or Cherry red, and they
also are divided into flaked and
feathered; and the fourth class are
the Selfs, which are white or yellow
without any dark ¢ Besides
these there are tare call

breeders, which are of a dingy erim-
son, and which are seedling Tulips
before they have shown any variety
of colour; parrot Tulips, whic’: are
supposed to be a variety of T syl-
véstris; and double Tulips, which
are not valued by florists at all.

All seedling Tulips when they first -

flower, are what are called breeders,
and of a dull uniform colour; and
to make them break, that is, to
preduce the brilliant and distinct
colours which constitute the beauty
of a florist’s flower, a variety of ex-
pedients are resorted to. At one
time they are grown in poor soil
and only allowed water enough to
keep them living; and then they
are suddenly transported to the rich-
est soil, abounding in food and
moisture ; and sometimes they are
sent into the country, twenty or
thirty miles from the place where
they were grown, to try the effect
of change of air. Seedling Tulips
are generally five years before they
flower. In addition t kinds
already enumerated, the French
have what they call Baguettes,
which are very tall-stemmed Tulips,
the flowers of which are white,
striped with dark-brownish red ;
Baguettes Rigauds, which resemble
the a have shorter stems

. ewe ie

* a

TULIPA.

399

TULIP-TREE.

and larger flowers ; and Flamands,
which have a white ground and
broad dark red stripes. ‘The Dutch
have also a kind which they call
the Incomparable Verport, which is
white, feathered with bright shining
brown. All florists’ Tulips ought
to have cup-shaped flowers, round

at the base; the ground colour in-|

side the flower ought to be quite
clear and bright in the centre ; and
all the marks ought to appear sharp-
ly cut and distinct. ©

The culture of the Tulip as a
florist’s flower, requires constant at-
tention. A bed about four feet
wide, and of any convenient length,
should be dug out to the depth of
two feet, and’a stratum of fresh
turfy loam should be laid, and on
this there should be a layer of rotien
cowdung, and on that a layer of
loam mixed with an equal quantity
of sand. The surface of the bed
should be slightly raised in the
middle, and the tallest Tulips should
be planted along it; the lower-
growing ones being ranged on each
side, so as to make the flowers form
a gentle curve to the sides of the
bed. The Tulips should be seven
inches apart every way ; and should
be planted two or three inches deep ;
and the bed should be protected by
half-hoops placed over it at regular
distances, over which mats should
be strained; the covering being so
contrived as tc be removed or opened
at pleasure. When the Tulips are
nearly arrived at their full height,
the hoops and mats should be re-
moved, and a path being made
round the bed, a canvass awning,
supported on a wooden frame, should
be subs d. When the plants
have done flowering, the leaves
should be suffered to remain on till
they turn brown, in order that they
may assist in perfecting the new
bulb, which is formed every year in
lieu of the old one, which gradually
wastes away. The bulb - tanica-

ro ie

a a

ted, that is, it consists of several
coats or tunics laid over one an-
other (see fig 60). When the

Fig. 60.—Tulip Bulb.

leaves are withered, the bulbs are
taken up and laid on shelves todry ,
after which the leaves, if any re-
main on, are removed, and the
fibrous roots, which will have wither-
ed up, are rubbed off, and the bulbs
are put into a box, divided into
compartments, so as to keep the
nained sorts apart till the season for
replanting, which is the last week
in October or the first,in November.
A fresh bed show.’ be made for
Tulips every year, or the soil of the
old bed should be changed ; as the
exudations from Tulips poison the
ground for other plants of the same
kind, though they are suitable for
other crops. The usual rotation in
Holland is, Tulips, Polyanthus-
narcissus, Crocuses, and Hyacinths.
Mr. Groom, of Walworth, is the
principal Tulip grower in the neigh-
bourhood of London; and he has
an exhibition of them every year
in May.

Tuie-TREE. — See Lririope'n
DRON.

trian ea ie

ee

ULEX. 409 URTICA. : s
Tuna. — One of the kinds of! doxble-blossomed Furze is very

Prickly Pear or Indian Fig—See | handsome, and makes a beautiful

Opo'NTIA. hedge. When it is employed for
Tura. — Lobeliacee. — The new | this purpose, a bank of earth should

name for the large upright-grow-| be raised three or four feet high,

ing kinds of Lobelia, with scarlet | and wider at the bottom than at

flowers. | the top, and the cuttings should be
TureLo-TrEE.—Wy/ssa sylvatica. | planted in a drill along the ridge
Turmeric. — Curctma.— Scita- | The soil should be somewhat sandy,

mineous plants with very showy and if there be plenty of room the
flowers, natives of the East Indies, plants should be left to nature to
which require a stove in England. | hang down loosely over the bank,
They should be grown in light rich | and they should never be pruned
earth, and they are propagated by except to cut out the dead wood.
offsets. U. nana grows generally on very
Turne‘ra.—- Turneridcee.—-Stove | poor gravelly soils, and seldom ex-
shrubs and herbaceous plants with | ceeds two feet in -; while U.
° / we . .
yellow flowers, some of which bear | europe‘a, the com kind, in
a slight resemblance to those of the | favourable situations will grow ten
Thunbergia. They should be grown feet high. U. stricta, the Irish
in light rich soil, and they are pro- Furze, has no spmes, and it grows
pagated by cuttings, or by seeds, straight upright to the height of
which they ripen freely. eight feet or ten feet. It requires
TURPENTINE-TREE.—Pistdcia te- a moist rich soil; and it is propa-
rebinthus—It must be observed, gated by cuttings lke the double-
however, that common Turpentine blossomed kind, as it has never yet
is procured from the different trees | been known to ripen seeds. All
of fhe Pine and Fir tribe. the other kinds are propagated by
Tussita‘co.— Composite. — The | seeds, which they ripen in great
Coltsfoet or Butter Bur. Some of) abundance.
the species are pretty and worth, U’tmvus.—Ulmdcee—The Elm.
cultivating, particularly 7. fra-| The Weeping Elm is a very orna-
grans. They will all grow in a/ mental tree for pleasure-grounds.
garden soil; and are very trouble-| Umsriicus.—Crassulacee.—The
some to keep in bounds, from the | new name for some of the kinds of
immense number of suckers that | Nayelwort—See Cory'LEpon. _
they send up from their roots. UmpreLia tTreeE.— Magnolia tri.
Tursan.—See Anpros#‘MoM and | petala.—See Maeno'nia.
Hyre’ricum. Ure‘po.—Cryptogamia—A kind
Ty\pua.— Typhinee.— Cat’s-tail | of rust often found on the leaves of
Rush. Aquatic plants, suitable for | Rose Trees and other plants.—See
growing on the borders of ponds, | Mirtpew.
and made pieces of water, to hide} Urri\‘ca.—Urticdcee.—The Net- °
the boundary. tle. The Roman Nettle, U. pilu-
lifera, is sometimes grown in gar-
dens as an ornamental annual, b
U. the sting is much worse than tha
of U. dioica, the common Nettle ve
U'tex. — Leguminose. — The | Some of the exotie species are very wm
Furze. An erect evergreen shrub | handsome ; a8 for example, U. reti-
with yellow flowers, which are pro- | culdta, a native of Jamaica, which
duced nearly all the year. ‘The | has red ond yellow flowers and deep

%

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; i

an

VALLISNERIA. 401 VASCULARES.

green leaves. All the Nettles thrive | coil above the surface of the water,
most in a deep rich soil. while the latter are produced at the

Us'nea.— Cryptogamia—A kind | bottom. Before, however, the an-
of lichen that hangs down like a| thers burst to discharge the pollen,
beard from the branches of old} the male flowers detach themselves
trees, particularly Oaks, and has a| from their stalks and rise up to the
very picturesque appearance. surface, on which they float lik:

Uvora'ria.— Melanthacee.— Pe- | little white bubbles. After the po!
rennial hardy plants with pale yel-|len has been distributed over th
low flowers, natives of North A-| stigmas, the male flowers wither
merica, which should be ‘grown in | and the spiral stalks of the female:
a compost of peat and toa’ a pit | coil up again so as to draw the seed.
about a foot square every way, be- | vessel under the water, that it ma:
ing dug in the open border and filled | ripen at the bottom and burst when
with the compost to plant them in. | just in the proper place to deposite
If the subsoil be not good, the pit | its seeds. Nothing can be more
may be made 4 little deeper, and a | beautiful than the whole arrange-
layer of stones and brickbats may | ment ; and nothing can show more
be put in the bottom. The plants | strikingly the admirable manner in
are propagated by suckers, which | which the economy of nature is ear-
they produce in great abundance. | ried on.
Vatonta Oax.—Quércus Ai'gi-
lops.—The acorns are enveloped in
a curious leafy cup ; and the tree,
which is generally of small size, is
very handsome.—See Que’Rcus.
Va npa.— Orchiddcee.—A bea
tiful Epiphyte, which is made t
type of a section from the. gre:
number that are nearly allied to ©

Vv:

|
Vaccinium. — Ericdcee. — The
Whortle Berry. Dwarf shrubs with
pretty drooping heath-like flowers
and generally showy fruit ; found
generally wild on commons in Eu-
rope and North America. V. myr- | It should be grown on the brane
téllus, the common Bilberry, is the ! of a tree—-See OrcuipEous Epipr
commonest species in England, and | TEs.
there is a variety with white berries|_ Vant’Lua.—Orchiddcee.—A cree;
in Germany. The Cranberry, V.|ing parasite, common in tropic:
oxycoccus, Lin., is now called Oxy- | climates, which throws out roots -
céccus palistris. every joint that penetrate into +
VaLertan.—See VauLeria‘na. bark of the trees on which the pk
Vaeria NA.— Valeridnee. — Pe-| grows. When grown in an orchid-
rennial plants, mostly natives of |ecous house, these plants are fre-
Europe, which will grow in any | quently fixed in a crevice in the
common soil. The dwarf species} damp wall, whence they spread out
are very suitable for rockwork. in different directions, catching hold
VauisnE ‘nia. — Hydrocharidee. | of every object within their reach.
-—-Water-plants, which succeed best | When thus treated and kept in a
=: greenhouse, and which should | strong moist heat, the plants will
e planted in a layer of loam at the | flower; but unless objects are near
bottom of the cistern in which they | for their roots to attach themselves,
are to be grown. The male and | to, the plants will never be strong
female flowers are on different |and healthy. The native Vanilla is
plants and the latter rise on long | used for putting into chocolate.
spiral stalks, which gradually ari= | Vascu.a’rEs are plants, the leaves
34* @

‘7 %

VERBASCUM.

and stems of which contain spiral
vessels, in opposition to Cellulares
or plants which are composed only
of cellular tissue. All the flowering
plants belong to the Vasculares ; but
the mosses, fungi, and lichens, are
Cellulares.

Vases in pleasure-grounds have
often a very good effect, particularly
on the terrace of an Italian villa.
Wherever they are introduced, how-
ever, they should always stand ona
plinth, broader than the circular
base ; as nothing can have a more
unartistical effect than to see a vase
resting on the bare ground.

Ve'Lia.—-Crucifere.—-The shrub-
by Cressrocket. V. pseudocy'tisus
is one of the few Cruciferous shrubs.
It is evergreen, and only grows two
feet or three feet high, with glau-
cous leaves and bright yellow fiow-
ers, which appear in April and May.
It is a native of Spain, and it was
formerly considered a greenhouse
plant in England, but it is now
found to be hardy. It grows best
in calcareous loam, but it will thrive
in any garden soil; and is very
suitable for rockwork. It is propa-
gated by cuttings of the young
wood planted in sand under a glass.

Venus’s Comz.—Scandiz pécten.
—A British weed.

Vewnus’s Fiy-rrap.—See Dion's.

Venus’s Looxine-cuass. — See
Campa’NULA.

Verza'scum.— Solandcea.— The
Mullein or Flannel plant. Show
herbaceous plants, generally with
yellow flowers, and most of which
are nativesof Britain. The greater
number of the species are biennials,
and require the usual treatment of
such plants (see Brenniats) ; but

' V. pheniceum, one of the hand-
somest species, is a perennial. They
will all grow in any common garden
soil, though they prefer one which
is somewhat loamy ; and they are
increased by seeds or by dividing |
the root, |

+.

r.

e

402

latifolia, and V. M.

VERBENA.

Verena. —Verbenacee. — Ver-
vain. Only a few years ago the
Verbenas were scarcely known in
flower-gardens, ane by V. Au-
bl<tia, with pinkish flowers, and V.
Lamberti, with purple ones, neither
of which possessed much,beauty.
In 1827, the beautiful Verbéna Me-
lindres, or, as it is sometimes called,
V. chamedrifélia, was mtroduced
from Buenos Ayres, and it directly
became a favourite, though for some
years it was kept carefully in the
greenhouse, and considered difficult
to manage. Since that time, how-
ever, numerous other species have
been inireduced, and as they are
found to hybridize freely, innumera-
ble hybrids and varieties have been
raised. They are all found to root
freely from layers, and to strike as
freely from cuttings, and to thrive
during summer in the open air.
They have thus become general
everywhere, and it is now rare to
see a garden or a balcony without
them. The kinds principally cul-
tivated are the following : V. Melin-
dres, the common scarlet Verbena,
the colour of which is the most bril-
lant searlet. It is, however, the
most tender kind of Verbena, and
when planted in the open air, it is
generally killed by the first frost if
not protected. It is a_ prostrate
plant, and should be pegged down
over the bed it is intended to cover,
when it will throw out roots at
every joint. Its varieties, V. M.

spléndens
which are probably hybrids between!

“‘V. Melindres and V. Tweedidna,

are much more hardy than the spe-
cies, and they are naturally more
upright-growing, though when peg-
ged down they throw out roots at —
every joint in the same manner.

Tweedidna is an upright-growing
plant with crimson flowers, and it
is very hardy; V. incisa is also
hardy and upright-growing, but its
flowers are of a pale pink and have

¢

VIBURNUM. 403 VIBURNUM.

a faded look. V. Arranidna has| coloured in the bud, and dark-blue
an upright habit of growth and pur- | berries, which is very valuable in

plish crimson flowers ; but it is very
tender, and very apt to be attacked
by aphides. V. Aublétia and V.
Lamberti are prostrate species and
very hardy; V. Sabinii, another
prostrate species, has lilach flowers,

and it has a variety with white ones. |
V. pulchélla is also prostrate, and |

so is V. sulphitrea, the flowers of

which are yellow. V. Neiilii, V.|
teucroides, and V. vendsa, are up- |
The first has lilach |

right-growing.
flowers, the second white ones, and
the last purple ; the last two are of
a very coarse iis

riodora. (See Atoy'sta.) All. the
Verbenas will grow in any light soil, |
but they thrive best in sandy peat |
or heath-mould.

bit of growth. The |
Lemon-scented plant, Verbéna tri- |
phy'lla, is now called Aloy'sia cit-|

town gardens, as it flowers from
December till March. It is a na-
tive of the south of Europe and the
north of Africa. ‘There is a varie-
ty with shining leaves and larger

more tender than the common kind.
When the Laurestinus is grown
/near a dwelling-house, care should
be taken in spring, when the leaves
drop, to have them swept away
every day, as they have an ex-
tremely disagreeable smell when
they are decaying, and are said to
be very unwholesome. The tree
Viburnum (V. Lantdgo) is a native
of North America, and it forms a
very hardy and handsome low tree

cymes of flowers, but it is rather,

in British gardens. It is also valu-
able for the great abundance of its

| berries, which are a favourite food

Vero'nica. — Scrophularinee.— | with birds. The Wayfaring Tree,
Speedwell. Very pretty perennial or Wild Guelder Rose (V. Lanté-
and annual plants, generally with | 7a), is another interesting small
blue flowers, natives of Europe, and tree; and V. cotinifolium is a beau-
many of them found wild in Bri- tiful ‘species from Nepaul. The
tain. They are all of the easiest most interesting kind of Viburnum
culture, as they will grow well in| grown in small gardens is, however,
any common garden-soil that is to- | the Guelder Rose, or Snowball Tree,
lerably light, and at the same time | V. O’pulus. This is a deciduous
moist ; and they are propagated by | shrub, a native of Europe and part
seeds and division of the root.| of Asia, which is always found in
Many of the kinds are very suitable| a wild state in swampy thickets.
for rockwork. In a wild state its principal beauty

Vervain.—See VERBE'NA. lies in its bright red berries ; but in

Vesica‘rIa. — setly ih yellow state of cultivation its heads of

baceous plants, mostly with yellow flowers become so compact, of such
flowers, natives of Europe and a snowy whiteness, as amply to
America, that should be grown in justify its popular name of the
sandy loam, and which are propa-| Snowball Tree. All the Vibur-
gated by seeds or division of the | nums are hardy in British gardens ;
root. and they will all grow freely in any

Vercu.—sSee Vi'cra. common soil. They are generally
__ Visu'rnum. — Caprifolidcee. —| propagated by layers, but cuttings
"The Viburnum. Ornamental shrubs, | will strike freely if kept moist, and
generally with terminal corymbs of in a shady situation. When trans-
white flowers. One of the best} planted, the evergreen species should
known of these, the Laurestinus,| be removed in October or Novem-
V. Tinus, is an evergreen bush, | ber, as they have few fibrous roots,
with white flowers that are rose-|and are very apt to be killed by a

=

ever, have white, some pink, others

-winkle. There are two species

e%. ns Se ee ec

VINCA. 404 VIOLA.

: ; ; ."
continuance of dry weather if they | grown im a pot, and all the: lateral

are transplanted in spring. shoots cut off. és ‘
Vici. — Leguminése. — The| Vine.—The common Vine (Vitis

Vetch. The ornamental species are | vinifera) may often be introduced
generally pretty climbing lamin! with very good effect in ornamental
with purplish flowers, natives of| garden scenery, for covering a
Europe. Some of the kinds, how-; bower or veranda, or traiming

blue, and others pale-yellow flowers. | room. Nothing can, indeed, be
All the kinds grow freely in any | more beautiful than a Vine in the
garden soil, though they thrive most | last-mentioned situation, forming a
when the soil is deep and sandy; framework, as it were, to the gar-
and they are propagated by seeds | den beyond ; and with its beautiful
or division of the roots. leaves looking almost transparent
Vieusseu‘x1a. — Jridee.— The|in the morning sun. <A Vine also
Peacock Iris. These beautiful flow- | looks very well when suffered to
ers are better known under their) grow naturally among the tall trees
old names of J‘ris Pavonia and | of a lawn or shrubbery,.as it hangs
Morea, than under their present | itself from branch to branch in a
almost unpronounceable appellation. | manner more graceful than any art
They are very nearly hardy, and|can hope te imitate. Vines thus
may be grown in the open border, | treated would have a ° good
if treated as directed for I’x1a (p.| effect in the grounds of an Italian
260); but as the bulbs are very | villa. The three American species,
small and delicate, it is, perhaps, | V. labrisca, or the Wild Vine, V.
safer to grow them in pots, in equal | vulpina, or the Fox Grape, and V.
parts of peat, vegetable-mould, and | ripdria, or the Sweet-scented Vine,
sand, and to keep them dry, or take | the flowers of which smell like Mig-
them out of the pots when they | nionette, are all very suitable for
have done flowering, till the plant- | growing in the open air, from their
ing or growing season returns the | extreme hardiness. All Vimes like
following year. a very rich and s hat moist
Vi'nca.—Apocy'nee.—The Peri-| soil, and thrive best when their
roots can get access to a drain, sew-
common in British gardens, both! er, or muddy pond.
of which are creeping or trailing; Vi‘ota. — Violécee.— Beautiful
evergreen shrubs, which will grow | perennial. dwarf plants, natives of
freely under the shade of trees.| Europe and North America, and
They both prefer a soft, moist soil, | growing generally in the moist
which they can easily penetrate | shady banks in woods. There ar
with their long creeping reots. V.| nearly 150 kinds grown in British
major is the common species, and | gardens, but the most common are
V. minor only differs in the flowers | V. odordta (see VioweT), and V.
being smaller, and the whole plant | trécelor (see Hearr’s-Ease). The
more delicate. The Periwinkle is| shrubby or Tree Violet (V. palma-
generally propagated by its runners, | énsis), a native of one of the Canary

which strike roots from every joint, | Isles, is a very handsome plant,

like those of the strawberry, and| growing about two feet high, with
which only want dividing from the | a shrubby stem, and large purplish-
parent to become plants. When it | blue flowers; it is usually kept ina
is wished to make the Periwinkle | greenhouse in England, where it
produce seeds, the plant should be| flowers from May to July. The

“

#.

we ae

round the window of a. breakfast- _

*
he

rss,

VIOLET. ° » 405 VISCUM,

Fan-leaved Violet (V. flabellata), | _in the open air. It must be observ-
and the Hollow-leaved Violet (V.|ed that plants in a sitting-room,
cucullata), are both American spe- es a constant fire is kept, are
cies, with large and handsome | generally in an equal degree of heat
flowers. All the species should be te a hothouse at 65°; only the air
grown in peat and loam kept moist, ‘of the living-room is much drier
and they all thrive best in a shady ‘than that of the stove, and to coun-
situation. * /teract this, additional wate ering» 18
at —The common sweet- | required. The common Violets only
Violet (V. odorata) is a/|requize planting on a sloping bank

= plant which grows in woods in a shady place, in a peaty soil,
or on and under fieevless The white | where they will have moisture, hae
Violets are found generally in cal-| where their roots will not be ex-
jcareous soils; and the sweetest ‘iy posed to the effects of a

“ever smelt, were, I think, those I | water.

have gathered growing among the| Vurer’s Buctoss.—See Doe
limestone rocks in the woods of | Virer’s Grass.— See Scorzo-
Dudley Castle. In garden culture, | Ne‘RaA.

however, what are called the Nea-| Virei't1a. — Leguminose. — A
politan and Russian Violets are the | very handsome low tree, a native
most useful, as they flower during | of ‘North America, with drooping
the winter months; and of these racemes of white flowers, resem-
the Neapolitan are the sweetest. | bling in form those of the laburnum.
These delightful Violets, which | It grows freely in any sandy soil.
fiower from Qctober to April or| Virernian Creerer.—See Amps-
May, should be grown in pots or Lo’Psis.

boxes, where they can be covered Viremtan Poxe.—See Payto-
with a hand-glass, in case of severe | La’CCA.

frost. They should be propagated | ‘Virein’s Bower.—Clématis Vi-
by cuttings taken off in May, and ticéila.

struck in sand under a glass; when | Vi'scum. — Loranthaceea. — The

the young plants have taken root | Mistletoe. This curious parasite —

they should be transplanted into| can hardly be called ornamental,
other pots filled with light rich soil:| though it may be sometimes intro-
and finally, in August, they should) duced with effect to give an air of
be removed to the pots or boxes in| antiquity to newly-planted plea-
which they are to flower. These) sure-grounds. It grows best on old
pots or boxes shonld be well drained cankered apple-trees, but it may be
by having a layer of potsherds at) made to take root on even a young
the bottom of considerable thick-| tree, by pressing a berry on a crack
ness; and they should be filled up|in the bark, and then tying oiled
with a compost made of two-fourths | paper over it. As, however, the
of vegetable-mould, one of loam,| male and female flowers of the
and one of silver-sand. ‘They should | mistletoe are on separate plants, the
be covered with ashand-glass during | berries are not always fertile. It is
heavy rains, or in frosty weather ;|a vulgar error to suppose that the
and if the frost is very severe a mat | mistletoe grows generally on theoak,
should be put over the glass. When! as it"is extremely rare on that tree
the pots or boxes are introduced | in England; it is found most com-
into a sitting-room, they should be| monly on the apple, and next on
watered twice a day, but once will| the hawthorn; it is also oa on
be sufficient if the plants are grown! the lime, the sycamore, the ow,
P *

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is

-

>

?

- e ‘ 7 Sill
e po one é
* *
2° | ;
VOLKAMERIA. 496g WALKS.

ally on the cherry, and sometimes,

. ——
the poplar, and the ash; occasion- now contains only two i

a stove shrub with -w wers,

from the West Indiess the

though rarely, on pines and fir
When the seeds begin to grow, th
send out first one or two roots, which
ascend for a short time, and then

turn back to the bark, on which

”

A

they fix themselves, like the sucker
of an insect. The other end after-
wards detaches itself from the tree,
and becomes leaves and_ shoots.
The roots of the mistletoe descend
between the bark and the young
wood, and no intimate union takes
place between the old wood of the
parasite and its supporter. This is
plainly shown in a piece of an old
thorn, given to me by H. Long,
Esq., of Farnham Lodge, to which
a mistletoe of very large dimensions
was attached. The wood of the
mistletoe is of a very fine pale yellow-
ish tinge, and it is as hard and of as
fine a grain as box, which it greatly
resembles, while that of the thorn is
dark brown.

Vrrex. — Verbendcee, — The
Chaste tree. The principal species
are V. A’gnus castus, which is a
dwarf shrub, with whitish flowers,
which will grow in any common
soil, and will generally stand out in
British gardens, though it is some-
times killed by a severe winter;
and V. incisa, which has pretty
palmate leaves, and purple flowers,
but it is so long before it puts out
its leaves in spring, and looks so
much as though it were dead before
its leaves expand, that it is often
thrown aside as worthless, when it
is in perfect vigour ; it is generally
kept in a greenhouse, and grows in
peat and loam. Besides these, there
are several hothouse species, natives
of the East Indies, which are not
worth eureting.

Vi'ris.—Ampelidee.—See Vine.

VoikameE'ria. — Verbendcee. —
Nearly all the plants formerly in-
cluded in this genus have been re-
moved to iene haanacan and it

_

**,

~

other a half-hardy tree with purple
flowers from Nepaul.

a 3
« W. ri

. »"

Wacisno'nsia Hann dorices.—
Bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants
with large panicles of very showy.
flowers, which are generally yellow.

These plants have rhizomas or under- »

ground stems, in the seales of which,
in some of the species, little bulbs
form, which, if removed and planted,
become distinct plants. These are
the bulbous kinds.
the same kind of rhizoma or fleshy

under-ground stem, but no bulbs form

in it. All the kinds are nearly har-
dy ; and they will thrive in the open

ground, provided the situation be
tolerably dry, without its heii
necessary to take up their roots
during winter.

WauLense’rota. — Campanula-
ce@.—Perennial and annual plants,
formerly considered as belonging to
Campanula, and of which Campa-
nula grandiflora is the type. They
should all be grown in sandy loam,
and they are propagated by seeds,
and division of the roots.

Wauks may be considered with
reference to their direction, their
construction, and their management.
In a small garden, the direction of
the main walks should generally be
governed by the boundary lines ;
and hence, ina plot of ground which
is square or oblong, the walks should
be straight and rectangular ; the ob-
ject in such a case bemg to produce
the beauties of regularity and sym-
metry. On the other hand, when the
boundaries of a garden are irregular,
the surrounding walk may be irre-
gular also; the object in this irregu-
larity being to create variety by
contrast in the direction. When a

= ; —

24

The others have »

I

~

a

=

a

-

oo - ee Ss
“ «
. ®**
7 .

WALKS. &. 407 WALKS.

———_—_.

unded by straight lines, is

so F contain an acre or two,

and the whole of. the interior is to
be laid out as a pleature-ground
then the walks may be varied in| Where one walk abuts upon or joins —

direction ; the boundary being con-
aled by trees and shrubs, or by
tificial undulations of the soil. In

"gen ral, it may be laid down as a

ale, that all walks should be
straight when there is no obvious
reason why they should be other-
wise ; and hence, in the case of all
winding walks, if there is not a
natural and apparently unavoidable
reason for their deviating from the
straight line, an artificial reason
ought to be created. This may
always be done even on a flat sur-
face, by the position of trees and
shrubs, or when there is the slightest
inclination to inequality of surface,
the same sufficient reason may be
created by heightening these ine-
qualities. When a winding walk
bends to the right the trees and shrubs
ought to be chiefly conspicuous on

the left side, and the contrary ; and |
the same rule is applicable to the |

natural or artificial inequalities.
When a walk is made perfectly
straight, the surface of the ground
ought to be perfectly even for some
feet in width on each side of the
walk, excepting in some few cases,
such as a straight terrace walk along

to allure the spectator ; because
ety turn has the effect of an object
exciting his curiosity and inducing

to advance to see what is beyond.

another at a nearly right angle, it be-

com sip |
| a straight walk; and opposite to the
abutting point or place of junction
there ought to be a seat, a statue, or
some other object, partly to form a
termination to the abutting or jeining
walk, and partly to serve as an ob-
vious reason Na one walk joins

to the other at that point nha
elsewhere. At the same time, other
reasons for the Action at that point
may exist or may be created ; for
example, the su of the ground
may be favo , or trees and
shrubs may be planted so as to ren-
der it apparently impossible to join
anywhere else. It has been said,
that in laying out winding walks,
nature should be imitated, and the
track of sheep in pastures, or of
wild animals on commons, have
bega held up as examples :—

——‘‘ The milkmaid’s careless ste :
| Has, through yon pasture green, trom stile to

stile,
Imprest a kindred curve ; the scudding hare

heaths, f
A path as gently waving.””——

But to imitate such walks wou'd
be to copy vulgar nature ; anc there-

a regular uniform slope, in which | fore art refines on these lines 7

case the ground on one side of the
walk will rise regularly, and on the
other side will fall regularly. All

- straight walks should lead to some

conspicuous object at the further end
of the walk, and facing it, so as to
appear to belong to it; and this
object should be seen the moment
the walk is entered upon. Hence,
every straight walk should have an
object at each end, such as a seat,
an alcove, an archway, a gate, a
door, a statue, a fountain, &c. A
winding walk, on the contrary, re-
quires no object at the further end

~

hi

rendering them more definite and
'elegant. In short, by exhibiting ‘n
| them a choice of form or line for its
own sake; because of the various
lines or parts of lines found in acci-
dental footpaths, or in the tracks of
hares, some must be more agreeable
to the eye than others, and it is only
these agreeable parts which are to
be imitated, and coma garden
scenery. All this is fou on the
recognition of a principle, which is
or ough be the foundation ofall
the fine arts; viz., that nature is to
e imitated, not to be copied. To

a od *

cd

ia

the same laws as —

Draws to her dew-sprent seat, o’er thymy —

* zune Pe. ° PS eee Te
. . a .
= ,
“
WALKS. 408 WALKS.

copy nature exactly as she appears branch drain to some nat
before us is the province of common is essential at every ch
art, and may be pleasing to many | face. These drains are not only in-
minds ; but to minds of culture and tended to earry off the underground
refinement, nature requires to be | water, but also that which collects
copied in such a manner or in such | on the surface and finds its way to
a medium as to show art. If this | the sides; and for this purpose there
were not the case, and if we were | are small cross drains formed at cer-
to copy footpaths exactly, then we | tain distances, which communicate |
should, of course, not gravel them, | from the sides to the. centrey and
or define them by regular edges. | these side drains communicate with
Hence, when one walk joins another, | the surface by a small upright tube
the angles of junction should neyer | or well, covered by an iron grating

be rounded off in that extreme de- |
gree which is found in public reads; |
where in turning out of one path |
into another, an obtuse or rounded |
angle seldom fails to be found. The |
appearance of such anangle in gar-
den scenery, whether in carriage-
roads or foot walks, destroys all
allusion to high art; and hence,
in all gardens containing winding
walks which are much frequented,
the junctions of these walks with
others should be protected by trees
and shrubs, or by vases or other |
architectural objects, in such a
manner as to render this rounding
of the angles of junction impossible.

The construction of walks, more
sspecially on soils which are not |
naturally dry, and on surfaces which
are not level or nearly so, requires
considerable skill. ‘The inclination
of the walk from one point to another
should be so arranwaeds to carry off
the surface water from rain or melt-
ing snows along the edges of the
walks, and the underground water
by drains beneath the surface. In
even surfaces, even though not level,
this is attended with little difficulty ;
and one drain under the centre of
the walk, or on one side of it, will
suffice, for a considerable length,
without any branch drains to carry
off the water which accumulates ;
but where the surface rises and falls
alternately, it is not only necessary
to have a drain under the walk
dtroaghout its whole length, but.a
+

*

7

or by a flag-stone pierced with holes
to admit the water. Sometimes the
main drain, instead of being formed
uuder the centre of the walk, is
made at one side, and sometimes in
the case of walks through a lawn
the drain is made under the turf;
but in this case, as in the other,
the small cross-drains communicate
with it, and are furnished with gra-
tings on a level with the surface of
the sides of the walk. In general,
these gratings are placed close to
the edge of the walk, more especially
when it passes through dug ground
edged with box, or where there is
little ground to spare ; but when it
passes through a lawn, the gratings
are best placed in small recesses in
the turf at the sides.
of dry soils with a porous subsoil of
gravel, sand, or rock, drains may he
dispensed with altogether ; and in

In the case.

©

those parts of the country where the .

kind of gravel used does not bind
so as to form a sufficiently smooth
and compact surface to prevent the
water from sinking into it, the side
gratings may be dispensed with. In
walks on very uneven surfaces, such

as where they are conducted up and ©

down declivities, considerable care
in the construction is required, in
order to prevent the gravel from
being washed away during heavy
rains, or the thawing of snow. ‘Two
things are requisite for this purpose ;
very complete drainage, with gra-
tings on both sides, not more than
e

WALKS.

409

ee

WALLFLOWER.

two or three yards apart ; and hav- |
ing the surface of the walk raised
much higher in the middle than
usual, so as to throw the water im-
mediately to the sides, and never to
admit of a current in the direction
of the walk. The next requisite is
a much coarser gravel than usual,
in consequence of which the water
of-rain or snow cannot wash away
the sandy particles. The most ef-
fective mode, however, is to wach:
the gravel quite clean, so as to leave
no particle smaller than a forse
gooseberry, or larger than a small |
apple, and to mix the whole with
Roman cement. Were it not for
the disagreeable dark colour of as- |
phalte, walks on steep declivities
laid with this material would be
preferable to any others, as being by
far the most durable.

In the operation of forming walks,
the first step, after the line has been
marked out, is to take the levels of
the surface, so as to determine the
degree of inclination necessary for
carrying off the water, and also
what quantity of soil will have to
be removed on each side of the
walk, so as to reduce the whole to
a uniform surface. The next step
is to mark out the width of the
walk, after which the soil is to be
excavated. The depth of the ex-
cavation will depend on the nature
of the sub-soil. If that is dry and
absorbent, such as gravel or rock,
then the depth need not be more
than a foot or eighteen inches ; but
if the sub-soil is retentive, such as
clay or loam, then the depth, at
Jeast in the centre of the walk,
should be between eighteen inches
and two feet, and it should be at
least one foot in depth at the sides.
The drain may be made in the
centre, that being the deepest part;
and this being dene, the excavation |
is to be filled up to within nine inches
of the surface with small stones,
broke:. brickbats, and such like ma-

35

terials, which are to be well beaten
down with arammer. On this sur-
face a layer, three inches in thick-
ness, of coarse gravel, should be
laid, and also well rammed down,
and the remaining six inches should
be filled in with the best gravel,
which should not be rammed, but
rolled after being raked to an even
surface. If the walk is to be edged
with box, that should be planted
immediately before laying on the
three-inch stratum of coarse gravel ;
but if itis to be edged with turf, the
most convenient time for laying it
down is before putting on the upper
stratum of six inches.—See Bu‘xus
and Epaines,

The management of walks con-
sists in keeping them clean, by the
removal of all extraneous matters
from their surface, including weeds ;
and in preventing worms from work-
ing in them, and throwing up casts.
Leaves and other extraneous mat-
ters are removed by sweeping ; but
weeds must be hoed or pulled up, or
destroyed by watering the walse
with salt water, which will also effec-
tually destroy the worms. Every time
a walk is hoed, it ought to be raked
and rolled; and to preserve the
surface quite smooth and firm, it
ought always to be rolled as soon
after rainy weather as the surface
has become quite dry. To renew
the surface of walks, they may be
turned over once a year, in spring;
but this is only advisable in the case
of fine-coloured gravels, such as
that of Kensington, in order to pre-
sent a fresh surface ; for, with refer-
ence to the smoothness, firmness,
and easy keeping of the walk, turn-
ing over the gravel is injurious
rather than otherwise.—See GraVEL.

Watt Cress.—See A’rabis.

WaALLFLoweR.—Common as this
flower is, it well deserves great
pains to be-taken inits cultivation ;
as its principal beauty is displayed
at a season when there are few

ae

WALLFLOWER.

hardy plants in flower; the Cro-
cuses, Hyacinths, and Narcissi, are
just over, or beginning to decay,
and the annuals have not yet begun
to expand theirblossoms. In April
and May, the brilliant yellow and
dark orange of the Wallflowers give
a peculiar brilliancy and liveliness
to gardens, which without them
would present a naked and dull ap-
pearance. The common Wallflower
(Cheiranthus Chéri) is generally
called a biennial, and it does not
flower till the second year after sow-

ing. It will, however, frequently |

live three or four years in favourable
situations. ‘There are ten or twelve
varieties ; some with rich dark red-
dish brown flowers, called the Bloody
Wallflowers, and others of a light
yellow, with nearly all the inter-
mediate shades. There is also one
with dark purple flowers, and an-
other with purple and pale yellow
flowers, the first of which has va-
riegated leaves. The dark and
doub:e-flowered kinds should be
grown in very rich soil, but not
freshly manured. ‘The remains of
Ceiery trenches used the previous
year. or part of the ground under
an oi. hotbed, will suit these flowers
exceecingly well; taking care to
mix a little sand with the soil, if it
pe at ail loamy, in order to lighten
it. As the varieties can never be
depended upon for coming true from
seed, the best way to preserve any
that are very rich in colour, or very
double, is to inake cuttings of them
in May. These cuttings snould be
frorn shoots of the current year, and
they should be about three inches
long. ‘They should be cut off care-
fully, and the end should be cut
smooth at a joint with a sharp knife.
The leaves shouid then be cut off
close to the stem, for about half the
length of the cuitmgs; and they
should be put into pois filled with

410

‘WALLS.

in a pot. They should be sprinkled
wita water three times a day, till
they have taken root, which will be
known by their begining to grow.
In many cases, the cuttings are
merely put into the open garden;
choosing a shady place, and mixing
a little sand with the mould, when
the ground is dug over before plant-
ing them. C. mutdabzlis is a half-
shrubby evergreen, with dark purple,
yellow, and lilach flowers; and it
requires a light rich soil. C. Alpinus
is a dwarf plant, with small yellow
flowers, and is weli adapted for
roeckwork. 'The stocks which were
formerly considered to belong to
this genus, are now removed to Ma-
thiola. Both Stocks and Wallflow-
ers are frequently called Gilliflowers,
a corruption of July flowers, as the
Stocks flower about that month.
Watts for gardens are either
used as boundary fences, and at the
same time for the purpose of train-
ing plants on, or they are erected in
gardens for the latter purpose only.
They may be formed of different
materials, according to those that
are most abundant in any given
locality ; but the best of all walls
for garden purposes are those which
are built of brick. Stone walls are
durable and good; but the stones
being much larger than bricks, the
joints between them are too faz
apart for the purpose of neat train-
ing. Mud or earth walls when
properly built with a coping suffi-
cient to throw off the rain on every
side, are dry, warm, and very con-
genial to plants, but from the fragile
nature of the mud, they are not well
adapted for trainmg on. These two
last kind of walls should, therefore,
be covered with wire or wooden
trellis-work, to which the plants
may be tied. Walls made of boards
are very good where they are not
required to be high; and where the

sandy loam and vegetable mould, | boards are soaked with tar, or coat-
about four inches apart, end three | ed over with pitch, and placed on a

, cu

WALLS.

WALLS.

footing of brickwork, stone, or oak
plank, they will last many years.
Shelters, as substitutes for walls,
are formed of panels of reeds cover-
ed with trellis-work ; or sometimes
in Russia with wicker-work, the in-
terstices being calked with moss ;
and both these kinds of substitutes
for walls last a number of years
when protected from perpendicular
rains by copings which project at
least a foot on every side, and when
placed on footings which secure
them from the damp of the soil.
Walls have also been formed for
training on, by inserting large slates
or thin flag-stones, such as the
Caithness pavement, either in the
soil (in which case the walls are not
above four or five feet in height),
or in fraraes of timber or iron, in
which case they may be of any
height required. Such walls are
always covered with trellis-work, to
which the trees or plants are attach-
ed. The most generally applicable
kind of walls, however, and those
which are by far the best for garden
purposes, are, as before observed,
those formed of brick. When the
wall is not intended to be more than
four or five feet in height, it need
not exceed nine inches in thickness ;
and the thickness of fourteen inches
will admit of ten feet in height; the
wall in both cases being built with-
out piers, which are great impedi-
ments to good training. With piers
the height with any given thickness
may be increased one-fourth. In
no case, however, ought garden
walls, or indeed division or fence
walls of any kind which have not a
load to support perpendicularly, or
a pressure to resist on one side, to
be built with piers. The same ob-
ject may always be obtained by
building the walls hollow; each side
seing of the thickness of four inches,
and the two sides being joined to-
gether by cross partitions of four-
inch work. An excellent garden-

ee
—_ eS ;

wall may thus be raised to the
height of twelve or fourteen feet,
with the same quantity of bricks
that would raise a nine-inch wall
to that height, with the addition
only of the bricks necessary to form
cross partitions at every three or
four feet. The width of the wall
may either be fourteen or eighteen
inches, the vacuity in the former
case being five inches, and in the
latter nine inches. Where it is
desired to save the expense of a
coping, the sides of the wall may
be gradually contracted towards the
top, so as to finish with a coping of
bricks set on edge crosswise; but
no wall intended for fruit trees or
for tender-flowering shrubs should
ever be built without a protecting
coping, because the rains run down
the face of the wall and render it
moist and cold at those seasons
when dryness and heat are most
wanting, viz: in spring, when the
buds are bursting, and in autumn
when the young wood is ripening.
The same moisture, and its alterna-
tion with dryness, rots the mortar
in the joints of the bricks, and
greatly injures and disfigures the
face of the wall. When, therefore,
walls are built without projecting
copings, the exterior joints ought
invariably to be pointed with stucco,
as in France and Italy, or with Ro-
man cement. Walls of nine inches
in thickness, and even four-inch
walls, if built in a winding or zigzag
direction, may be carried to a con-
siderable height without either hav-
ing piers or being built hollow; and
such walls answer perfectly for the
interior of gardens. Hollow walls
of every description may also be
built at less expense by placing the
bricks on edge instead of being laid
flat; and not only garden walls but
those of cottages and farm-buildings
may be constructed in this manner.
Lengthened details on this subject
will be found in Mr. Loudon’s En-

WATER. Al

cyclopedia of Cottage Architecture,
and in his Suburban Gardener.

For further particulars respecting
the use of walls in ornamental gar-
dens, see ConservVATIVE WALL.

Warratau. — See TELo'PEs. —
There is also a Warratah Camilla ;
so called because its bright crimson
colour resembles that of the true
Warratah plant or Telopea of Bota-
ny Bay.

Water, in gardening, may be
considered with reference to its use
in vegetable culture, and to its
effect in landscape. When water
is too abundant in any soil, it is to
be removed by surface or under-
ground draining; and the rain, or
thawing snow which produces wa-

ter on the surface, is to be convey- |

ed away by similar means. See
Watgs.

culture is next in importance to soil,

for plants can no more subsist |

without the one than without the
other. All plants in a highly arti-
ficial state, even in a moist climate
like that of Britain, require water
occasionally ; for extraordinary ex-
citement by means of soil, or ma-

nure, or artificial temperature, will |
expose it to the action of the atmo-

be ineffective unless seconded by
water. For all ordinary purposes,
it is sufficient to pour the water on
the surface of the ground, but if the
operation of watering were carried
to the full extent of which it is sus-
ceptible, it would be suvplied sub-
terraneously by underground drains,
as is sometimes done in fen lands, and
not unfrequently in reclaimed bogs,
both 1 in Great Britam and Ireland.

re the soil of a garaen is to be
made the most of, there should be
a substratum of gravel or small
stones, with drains or small tunnels,

or perforated tubes of earthenware

at regular distances, communica-
sing with a supply of water a few
feet above the surface of the soil,
by which water might be admitted
at pleasure, so as to irrigate the

.

|

Water as an element of,

2 WATER.

whole of the under-strata, and to
supply moisture to the roots of the
plants altogether independently of
what they might receive either ar-—
tificially or naturally from the sur-_
face.
vantage in dry soils, not only to
crops of herbaceous vegetables, and
to the plants of flower-gardens, but
to fruit-trees, forest-trees, and use-
ful or onamental shrubs. It would
be more especially useful in the
case of orchards to set the blossoms
in spring, and to swell off the fruit
in autumn. It would produce as-
tonishing effects in the case of fruit-
trees planted against walls, and on
vines planted in prepared borders,
and on peach-trees in a state of
forcing. The only objection to this
mode of applying water is the ex-
pense.

Water considered with reference
to its quality, should be without the
admixture of extraneous mineral
substances, such as acids or alka-
lies ; and it should be of the same
temperature as the soil, or higher
rather than lower. In order that
it should be of the same tempera-
ture as the soil, it is necessary to

sphere in, ponds or basins before
using, and even when taking the
water from such ponds or basins,

the surface stratum of the water

ought always to be taken by dipping

_in the watering-pot in such a man-

ner as that only the surface of the
water should run into it. In the
application of water to plants, the
most general mode is to pour it at
their roots; but in doing this it is
not necessary that the water should
touch the stems or the collar of the
plant. On the contrary, the stems
of tender plants, and even the soi
for an inch or two all round them,
is better kept dry; because the
moisture on the collar is apt to
create decay. The fibres which
absorb the moisture and convey it

- ale ae > -

This would be of great ad-

x

WATER.

#

413

WATER.

to the leaves of the plants, are
always extended to some distance
_from the stem ; and hence it fol-
lows that a plant may be moistened
_ immediately round the stem with-
our rendering it any service, but,
on the contrary, incurring the risk
of rotting it; while, if watered at

some distance from the stem, it! of any length, provided they are

may be nourished in reality, and
yet have the appearance of being
starved for want of moisture.

For certain kinds of plants, such
as the Hydrangea and the Balsam,
Coxcombs, Chrysanthemums, and
others which are of vigorous growth,
water may be mixed with manure ;
such as concentrated stable-dung,
recent sheep’s-dung, or any other
description of animal manure which
is soluble in water. For some
plants, such as heaths and most of
the hair-rooted shrubs and _ herbs,
this liquid manure is found to be
injurious ; but for many others, ap-
plied when they are in a growing
state, it is found greatly to increase
their vigour.

Water as an element of landscape
scenery, is exhibited in small gar-
dens either in ponds or basins, of
regular geometrical or architectural
forms; or in ponds or small lakes
of irregular forms in imitation of
the shapes seen in natural land-
scape. In general all geometrical
or architectural basins of water
ought to have the margins of ma-
sonry, or at least of stones placed
so as to imitate a rocky margin.
The reason is, that by these means
the artificial character is heighten-
ed, and also a colour is introduced
between the surrounding grass,
vegetation, gravel, or dug-ground,
which harmonizes the water with
the land. Artificial shapes of this
kind should never be of great diam-
eter, because in that case the arti-
ficial character is comparatively
lost, and the idea of nature occurs
to the spectator. When round or

35*

square, they should not be of greater
diameter than the house or building
to which they belong; but a better
effect will be produced by their
being smaller, as is shown in the
architectural basins of Italy, and
the tanks of Persia and India.
When of oblong forms they may be

never of any great breadth; be-
cause in this case they never can
be seen in such a manner as to obli-
terate the idea of high art, the stone
margins being always in part, at
least, near the eye.

Water in unitation of nature
should be in ponds or basins of
uregular shape; but always so

contrived as to display one main

feature or breadth of water. A
pond, however large it may be, if
equally broken throughout by isl-
ands, or by projections from the
shores, can have no pictorial beauty ;
because it is without effect and does
not form a whole. The general
extent and outline of a piece of wa-
ter being fixed on, the interior of
the pond or lake is to be treated
entirely as a lawn. If small, it
will require no islands; but if so
large as to require some, they must
be distributed towards the sides, so

-as to vary the outline and to harmo-

nize the pond with the surrounding
scenery, and yet to preserve one
broad expanse of water; exactly
in the same manner as in varying
a lawn with shrubs and flowers,
landscape gardeners preserve one
broad expanse of turf. The margin
of pieces of water in imitation of
nature, should be a refined imita-
tion of what is seen in natural lakes.
The turf should never exactly touch
the water, because the green of the
one and the blue of the other do
not harmonize. In nature, the
harmony is provided for by the
water sinking lower at one time
than it does at others ; which leaves
a dark line of soil even in the most
*

-”

1
e

#

WATER PLANTS.

unfavourable cases, and a narrow
line of bright gravel or sand in cases
best deserving imitation. As sub-
stitutes for gravel, stones may be
introduced here and there ; and

grouped either with plants on the |
shore or with aquatics, and the)
shades and reflection of these will |

produce a degree of intricacy and
force of effect which will complete
the beauty of the scene.

In the placing of water, whether
in imitation of nature or in the cre-
ation of artificial character, regard
should always be had to the sur-
rounding scenery. Water in land-

scape attracts the eye more power- |
fully than any other material, and |
therefore it should never be placed |

near a boundary, or near any object
to which it is not desirable to at-
tract attention.
of nature should also be placed in
what.is im reality or in appearance
the lowest part of the grounds; but
this rule does not apply to water in
highly artificial forms.

Water Carrrors.—See Tra‘pa.

WatTERING-PoTs are generally

formed of tinned iron painted, but |

a cheaper kind, nearly as durable,
is formed of zine, which requires no
paint.
ent sizes, and in every garden hav-

ing plants in pots, there ought to be |

three sizes: large for the open gar-
den, smaller for plants i in pots under
the hand ; and yet smaller, and witha
long tube or spout, for pots on a shelf
or at a distance from the operator.

WatrrerRiInGc.—See Water.

WAtTeR-LEAF.—See Hyproruy’b-
LUM.

WATER-LILY.—_-See Nympu ‘a and
NeELv'MBIUM.

» Warer Ptants are those which

must have their roots and a portion

of the stalk submerged in water, in

contradistinction to marsh plants,
which only need to have their roots
constantly kept moist. Most water

ee require to be planted, or to,

~

4

te

Al4

| or in the soil at the bottom of a pon

Water in imitation |
| « . . .
‘is sometimes fixed in the margin

Watering-pots are of differ- |

WATER SOLDIER.

have their seeds sown, in a layer
of soil at the bottom of the ciste
or aquarium in which they ;
grown, if they are tender plant

or other piece of water in the open
ground if they are hardy. Most
water plants have their leaves and
flowers always above the surface
of the water; and others raise
themselves above the water in the
day, when their flowers are expand-
ed, and sink below it at night, when

their flowers are closed up, so as

not to be injured by the water. To
enable them to do this, if the water
should be deep, the stems are some-
times unnaturally elongated; and
consequently they become weak, and
unable to flower, or perfect their
seeds properly. To avoid the in-
convenience of this, a framework

of the pond te hold the pot in which
the plant grows, and to keep it ata
proper depth in the water. When

| plants are placed in the beds of riv-

ers, a stone should be laid on the
roots to keep them in their proper
place, and to prevent them from
being washed away by the stream.

Water Puantarn. — Alisma. —
British marsh plants.

Water Regp.—Arindo Doénaz.
—See Arv’Npo.

Water Starwort. — Callitriche
aguatico.

Water Sonprer. — Stratidtes
aloides—This curious British plant,
when rooted in the mud at the bot-
tom of ponds or other pieces of still
water, sends out long runners which

‘| Tise to the surface, and there pro-
trude roots.

Then detaching them-
selves from the parent plant, they
float about till they have blossomed
and perfected their seed ; after which
they sink down to the bottom, where,
fixing themselves in the mud, they
ripen their seeds, which. sow them-
selves, and thus give birth to new
plants, which send out fresh run-

—

=) WHEELBARROW. A415 WILLOW.

ners to rise to the surface the follow- | ‘the long stalks of perennial plants;
g.summe:: When this plant is to | clipping of box, dead flowers, &c.,
“3B grown | “in pleasure-grounds or | | &c., which are not heavy, but which
cisterns, it is only necessary to throw | take up a great deal of room. These
some plants of it into the water to waste articles should be carried to
which they are to be transferred at | the reserve ground, where they
the time they are floating about i in | |should be laid in a heap to rot for
their detached state; and at the|manure. A great part of the beauty
proper season they will sink and | / lof a flower-garden depends on re-
take root in the mud at the bottom. moving withered flowers and all un-
These plants are worth growing on | sightly objects as soon as is possible
account of the curious manner in| | Without i injuring the plants to which

which they illustrate the beautiful

they belong.

economy of nature. Winre Beam Tree. — Py\rus
Water VioLtet.—Hoitonia pa-| A’ria—See Py'rus.

listris—See Horro'nra. | Wuire Cepar. —- Cupréssus
Warso'nta. — Iridea. — Bulbous | Thyoides.

slants, very nearly allied to Gladid-
ius; and which require exactly the

W uitrLtow-crass.—See Dra'‘pa.

WuuorTLe-serry.— See Vacci'-

2

same culture as plants of that ge-| nium. .

nus.—See Guapio‘Lus. Witp Buctoss. — Lycdpsis. —
Wax Tree—Ligistrum licidum. | British and American annual plants,

—See Licu’strum. some of which are pretty, and which
Wayrarine Tree—See Vinv’r- | will grow in any commen soil.

NUM. Witp Liquorice.—A‘brus pre-
Wernma'nnta. — Cunonidcee. —| catorius——A climbing leguminous

Stove shrubs which should be grown | plant, with pale purple flowers, and

in peat and loam, and which are} very beautiful red and black seeds:

propagated by cuttings ef the young | a native of the West Indies. The

wood. The flowers are whitish, and | root tastes like liquorice. In Eng- a

something like those of the Mela-/|land the plant should be grown in

leuca.
Wenpb1ia'NpIA. —Menispermacee.

sandy peat, and it requires a stove.
The seeds are used for making

—A climbing shrub nearly allied to | necklaces.

Menispermum, formerly called Coc-
culus Carolinus. It requires a little
protection during winter.
Wueevsarrow.—A wheelbarrow
is a necessary appendage to every
garden; and one intended for the
use of a lady ought to be made as
light as possible, and with the han-
dles curved so as to require very
little stooping. The wheel also}
ought to ke made broad to prevent
it from injuring the walk. In ad-

Wixp Otive.—Several plants are
known by this name; but the one
most commonly so called is the
Eleagnus. Three other plants,
called the Wild Olive, are the Rkus
Cotinus, a kind of Daphne, and
Nyssa Sylvatica, or» the ~ Tupelo
Tree. Notelea is also sometimes
known by the same name.
~ Witp Service—Py‘rus’ termi-
nilis. See Py'rus.

Wup Tayvme— Thymus serpy't-—

dition to the wheelbarrow, there | Jum. >
may be a handbarrow, consisting| Wittow.—See Sa‘iix.—Besides
of a square basket with two long the botanical divisions of the genus
poles, so as to be carried between | Salix, which are very numerous,
two persons; the useof this being| Willows are divided into three or
to hold the haulm of Sweet Peas;! four distinct kinds; viz., the W:'-
,* ie
‘ _
t ne -
Be, ad

> eae >

t
_
WISTERIA. 416 WOOD LOUSE.

lows which include all the trees, Society’s Garden had more than
and generally all that have smooth | nine thousand»racemes, containing *
shining leaves; the Osiers, which | in all about 675,000 sagiyste flow-—
are the shrubby species with long|ers. W. frutéscens :
pliant shoots; and the Sallows, | smaller plant, with closer re
which have thick shaggy leaves. | of flowers, which are small anc
The wood of the tree kinds is white,| a dark purple. It is a native of
ad being very soft and elastic, it| North America. Both plants re-
used for making bats for cricket- | quire a rich soil, and to be frequent-
players, wooden mallets, and other | ly wateréd in dry weather.
purposes, where wood is required | Wrren Hazer.—See Hama’me-
that will bear a heavy blow without | is.
splitting ; the QOsiers are used for) Wirny.—Those kinds of shrubby
‘basket-work ; and the withies,| willow which have long flexible
which are < diminutive kind of | shoots.

Mu e

Osier, for tying up bundles. All| Woap.—See Isa‘rs.
the Yvillows grow best in moist} Wotr’s Bane.—See Aconr‘toum.
me~cay land, and they are all props W oopBinE.—See Capriro‘Lium.
agated by cuttings, which strike| Wooproor.—See Aspr’RULA.
w:.i the greatest facility. Woop Louse.—Oniscus aséllus.
» © Wrnow-ners. —See Errzo‘z1um. | —These creatures are exceedingly
a. WiLLow-o0aK.— Quércus Phélilogs. | destructive, particularly tosucculent
~ —An American Oak, with very| plants and dahlias. They belong
narrow Willow-like leaves. to the Crustacea, and possess the
Wincep Pea—Ldathyrus aldtus.| power, when alarmed, of curling

—See La'tuyrrus. themselves up like a hedgehog, so
Winter Aconire.—See Enra’n- | as to resemble a hittle ball-like shell.
THUS. They are fond of creeping into any

Winter Berry.—See Pai'nos. |idark places, and are frequently

Winter Cuerry.—See Puysa‘-| caught by laying some flower-pots

ans LIS, sideways with hay in them, near the
Winter Cress—Barbdrea vul-| plants which have been attacked.
garis—A cruciferous plant, with | They will also creep into reeds, or
handsome yellow flowers. A dou-| the hoilow stalks of rhubarb, and
ble-flowered variety of the common | all these traps are used to prevent

winter cress is called the yellow | their ravages on,dahhas. Very fre-

rocket. quently small flower-pots may be
- Winter Green.—See Py'rona, 4 seen inverted on the stakes which
Wisteria. Legumindse. — |} support dahlias, solely to serve as a

Climbing shrubs, with drooping ra- | trap for these creatures. Woodlice
cemes of beautiful purple cr hlaeh} were formerly supposed to be useful
fragrant flowers, which in shape | in medicine, but like many remedies
greatly resemble those of the labur- | that were formerly popular, they are
num. ‘The commonest kinds are| now no longer esteemed. When
W. sinénsis, and W. frutéscens, | young they are white, and in this
du but some other species have been|state they are frequently found in
lately introduced by Dr. Siebo eat numbers in the ant-hills, living’ «
from Japan. For some particulars | with the ants in perfeet harmony ; 4
respecting W. sinénsis, see Guy-| they are then very small, and if ex-
cinE ; and to this may be added | amined closely, they will be found
that, in the summer of 1840, the | to have one segment of the body and
plant in the London Horticultural | one pair of legs less, than when full-

&. P

* , oe £ cr

+e > WORMS. 417 WRIGHTIA.

grown. ‘This circumstance, com-
bined with the difference of colour,
aie led many persons to fancy the
-ereatures found in the ant-hills to
- be different from common woodlice,
though, in fact, they are exactly the
same,

Woop Sacte.—Tetcrium Scoro-
donia.—One of the British kinds | of
Germander.

Woo'psta. — Filices. — A very
beautiful kind of British fern, with
very delicate leaves. One species
is a native of Brazil.

Woop Sorrei.—See O/xauis.

Woopwa’rpia.-—Filices.—Exotic
ferns, natives of North America
and Madeira.

Worm Grass. — Spigélia mari-
landica.—A hardy perennial, with
dark scarlet erect flowers, some-
thing lke those of the trumpet hon-
eysuckle. This plant, though a
native of North America, does not
ripen its seeds in England ; and as
it does not throw up many offsets, it
is very difficult to propagate in this
country. It is also very liable to be
killed by transplanting ; and thus,
though well worth growing as a
border flower, it is very seldom seen
in British gardens. It is called
worm-grass, from its efficacy as a
medicine for destroying worms.
There is another species, a native
of Jamaica, which has no beauty to
recommend it.

Worms.— The common earth-
worm (Lvimbricus terréstris) is a
most destructive creature in flower-
pots. It has been ascertained that
worms swallow earthy matter, and
that, after having deprived it of its

nourishing properties, they eject the
remainder in the form of what are |:
called worm casts, and whichains)
of
their burrows, to the surface, that
they may not be in danger of swal-

stinct teaches them to throw ou

lowing it again. To find fresh earth,

the worm is continually incited to
penetrate the ground in different

ba

directions ; while, after each repast,
it is induced to return to the surface
to eject its cast ; and thus, ground
inhabited by worms is sure to be

thoroughly perforated and pulver- .

ized. In a field, this has a good
effect, as it lightens the soil, and
renders it pervious to the air and
rain ; but in a pot, every passage of
the worm tears asunder the roots of
the plant, which are pressed close
together from the smallness of the
space in which they are confined,
and thus it does a serious injury.
The common earth-worm moves by

bristles, with which the rings of its .

body are furnished, and which ena-
ble it to move either backward or
forward at pleasure ; and it emits a
slimy substance which facilitates its
passage through the earth; thi
slimy matter adheres to leaves an
other substances, which the worm
drags after it along the surface of
the ground, but which, as it cannot
take them through its passages, they
being only large enough to admit
its own body, it leaves at the mouth
of the hole where it disappears.
When a worm is cut in two, it is
generally believed that both parts
will become perfect worms ; but, in
fact, only the part which. contains
the head possesses the power of
throwing out a new tail; and the
part containing the tail cannot form
a new head. Worms are produced
from eggs; and they are always
most abundant im rich humid soil.
When the casts are seen on the
surface of earth in a pot, no time
should be lost in turning out the
earth on the hand, and picking out
he worms. ‘The roots torn asunder
ould then be thrown away, and
e plant repotted in fresh earth.
Wormwoop.—See ArTEMI'sIA.

Wovunpwort.—Anthy'llis Vulné-
ria—A. British plant, only. found in
chalky soils.

Wrack Grass.—See Zo’sTERA.

Wri'Gutia.— Apocy'nee,— Hot-

4

e*

»

-
oe
4
~
¥
” eg
*

a3
* 4

_ XEROPHYLLUM.

418

eee
a

YELLOW RATTLE

Ly) so aes. — Fn, Mibu dave) ae ee
house trees, natives of the East In- | species, from its loose and elegant

dies, which were formerly consider-
ed to belong to the genus Ne‘rium.
One of the species, W. coccinea,
has splendid flowers; it should be
grown in sand and peat. The other
kinds have white flowers.

X.

Xanruorur'za. — Ranunculdcee.
—Yellow root. An American shrub,
with very neat dark purple flowers
which are produced early in spring,
and handsome leaves. It will grow
in any common garden soil, and it
is increased by suckers from the
roots.

Xantuo’/xyLum. — Rutdce@, or
Terebinthiaceea. — The Toothache
tree. Trees and shrubs, most of
which require a stove in England,
and should be grown in a sandy
»loam. X. fraxineum, the prickly
ash, is an American shrub, the bark
of which is aromatic, and is consid-
ered very efficacious in rheumatism.
It is hardy in British gardens, and
will grow in any soul. X. nétidum,
which has strong thorns on the mid-
ribs of its leaves, is used as a hedge
plant in Chma.

XeRA'NTHEMUM. — Compdsite.—
Purple everlasting flower. Very
beautiful annual flowers, which may
either be sown in the open ground
in April, or raised on a hotbed, and
planted out in May: the only ad-
vantage by the latter plan being
that the plants flower earlier. They
are very beautiful, and well deserv-
ng of a place in every flower-gar-

en.

XeEropuy’LLUM.— Melanthdceea.— |

_ Singular plants with long, narrow
leaves, and spikes of pretty white
flowers. The species are natives of
North America, and quite hardy in
British gardens, where they should
be grown in peat and loam. X.
gramineum is a peculiarly desirable

&

spikes of small star-like white flew-

ers. ‘

XeEror1s. — Juincee. — Rush-like
plants, natives of North Holland.

which require protection in this
country ; and which are not worth
the trouble of growing.

Ximene'sta. — Composite. — An-
nual and perennial flowers, natives
of Mexico, with yellow flowers,
which will grow in any common
garden soil. There are two bien-
nial species, which should be kept
in a frame during winter, and trans-
planted to the open border in
spring.

Xy.o'sium.—Orchidacee. — Bra-
zilian parasites, growing on trees,
and requiring a stove in England.
For their culture, see OrcuIDEous
EpipuyTes.

Xy.apuy'LLA.— Euphorbiacee.—
Very curious shrubs, which produce
their flowers on the margins of their
leaves. They are mostly natives
of Jamaica, and require a stove in
England. ‘The flowers are generally
greenish, but those of X. montana.
the Sea-side Laurel, are of a bright
yellow. They are generally grown
in sandy peat.

Xyto'sreum—The Fly Honey-
suckle. See Lonr'cera.

Y.

Yam.— Dioscorea. — Herbaceous
plants, natives of the tropics, gene-
rally with greenish white flowers,
the tuberous roots of which are
eaten as a substitute for potatoes
The stems of most of the species
are weak, and cannot support them-
selves.

Yarrow.—Achilléa millifolium.

Yettow Rarrie.— Rhindnthus

majus is a British plant, which is

very ornamental, from its yellow
labiate flowers having each a bright
dark eye.

=

ys

*

a

» &

YUCCA.

Yettow Rootr.—See Xantno-
RHI‘ZA.

Yetitow Surtran.—See AMBER-
BO‘A.

Yettow Vercniine.—Lathyrus
Aphaca.—A British climbing vetch,
with yellow flowers, only found in
sandy soiis.

Yettow Wort.—Chlora perfo-
lidta.—A British annual, with glau-
cous leaves and yellow flowers. It
is always found in a wild state in
tally soils, and it will seldom grow
in gardens unless the soil be chalky,
or of a calcareous loam.

Yew Tree.—See Ta’xvs.
® You'cca—Lilidcee, or Tulipicee.
Adam’s Needle. Evergreen plants
with leaves like the Aloe, and some-
times a stem, or rather trunk, like
a palm tree. Some of the species
have been known to have a trunk
twenty feet high, sending up every
year five or six immense flower-
stems, each six or eight feet high.
In ordinary cases, however, the
trunk is rarely more than two or
three feet high, though the flower-
stem frequently measures five or six
feet. The flowers are bell-shaped,
and generally white. The com-
monest kinds in British gardens are

Y. gloridsa, Y. Draconis, and Y.

filamentdsa. All these are natives
of North America, and are quite

hardy in Britain; they have all;

white flowers, and they are all Aloe-
hike shrubs, presenting the general
appearance shown in fig. 61, which
was taken from a plant of Y. Dra-
conis. Y. aldifélia, on the contra-
ry, always forms a palm-like tree,
from twelve to twenty feet high ; it
is rather more tender, and its flow-
ers are purplish on the cutside and
white within.” All the kinds prefer
a deep sandy soil, and they are all
propagated by suckers. They will
all grow close to the sea-side, and
are therefore very suitable for the
grounds of marine villas. They
also produce a good effect in vases,

Ale

ZANTHOXYLUM. |

Fig. 61.—Yuceca Draconis.

on the terraced garden of an Italian

villa, as they form an excellent sub-—

stitute for the Agaves, so common
in Italy, but which are too tender
for the open air in England *

Z.

Z.—Several botanical names be-
ginning with X, are occasionally
spelled with Z.

Za\mia.—-Cycddee.-—Very curious
palm-like plants, with short tuber-
cle-like stems, and long frond-like
leaves, which are stiff and leathery,
and stand erect round the stem.
The remains of the footstalks of
the old leaves, form a scaly lind of
bark to the stem. The flowers are
dicecious ; and the fruit is an oblong,
erect, scaly nut, which is hard and
bony. The species are mostly na-
tives of the Cape of Good Hope,
but some are found in the West
Indies; and one, Z. spiralis, in
New South Wales. The plants
should be grown in very sandy
loam, and are generally propagated
by offsets. ‘They are very tena-

cious of life, and when the centre of

the stem is rotten, the scale, if plant-

ed, will generally send up leaves,

and become a separate’plant.
ZANTIO XYLUM.—See XANTHO'XY-

| Lom,

.
. 7 2
5

.

&

«<i @
a ZICHYA. 5 0 ZYGOPHYLLUM.

Zr\as.—Graminee.—The Indian! Zi'ncmwEer. — Scitaminee. — The

Corn. An annual plant, a native | Ginger. Stove plants, with small
“of America. The plant is very or- | flowers, which are produced in a
namental, and the male blossoms | very curious spathe, and a fleshy
are particularly elegant. It should | rhizoma, or underground root. One
be grown in rich mould, and it of the species is the common ginger.
should be sown very early inspring;| Zi’nn1a.—Composite.—Beautiful
or it may be sown ona hotbed, and annual flowers, natives of Mexico,
transplanted into the open ground | which should be raised on a hotbed, 7
in May. and planted outin May. See Haxr-
Zesra Prant.—Caldthea Zebri- | warpy ANnuALs, p. 117.
na.—Cane-like plants, with red and| Z1'zypuus.—Rhamndcee.— Half-
yellow, purple and yellow, or white | hardy shrubs, some of gsr e

“

flowers; natives of Brazil, which | frequently grown in British gardens.
require a stove in England, and | See JususE Tree, and Pans'‘rus.
which should be grown in sandy| Zoste\ra. — Fluviales.— Wrack

peat.
Zepoary.—Curcima Zedoaria.

grass, or Grass wrack. A marine

| plant, common in salt-water ditches.

Yrno‘nia.—Ericadcee.—The new |

Se

The leaves, when dry, are tough
name given by Professor Don to a | and flexible ; and they have been
genus of Andromeda. \lately used for filling beds and
Zepuyra'NtHEes. — Amaryllida- | cushions.

cee.—Cape bulbs, with very elegant| Zycore’ratum. — Orchidaceae. —
flowers. Nearly all of the species | Showy orchideous plants, which in
are quite hardy, and only require | their native state are found grow-
planting like the Crocus, in a warm | ing on the branches of trees, and
border, in a somewhat sandy soil; | which should be grown on wood in
without wanting any further care,|the stove. For their culture, see
except occasionally taking them} Orcnipeous Erirnyress.

up, every third or fourth year, to| Zycorny’tuum. — Rutdcee, or
remove the offsets. Zygophy'llee—The Bean Caper.
Zi'CHYA. — Leguminose. — Mr.| Greenhouse and hardy perennials,

Bentham’s new name for some of| which will grow in any common
the kinds of Kenne‘pya. See page | garden soil, that is somewhat loamy
264. They are propagated by cuttings.

baa

»

APPENDIX.

¥
Canary Birp FLower.—Tropeolum peregrinum, or 1duncum; some-

times also called T. canariensis, though wrongly, as it is a native of Peru.
This plant is generally considered a half-hardy annual, but it is found to
grow without any hotbed, if the seeds are sown as soon as ripe in pots,
and kept ina room during winter. The young plants should be regularly
watered, and trained to a stick or frame till spring, when they should be
planted out. They will then grow and flower luxutiantly, producing a
succession of blossoms, till the plants are destroyed by frost.

CuarcoaL.—It was mentioned under this head that cuttings had been

struck in charcoal in Germany ; but I was surprised to find, during a late

tour in Devonshire, that all kinds of plants will grow in charcoal better
than in any thing else. At Bicton, near Sidmouth, the seat of Lady
Rolle, Bananas, and other stove plants, are grown of a most extraordinary
size and vigour, by the use of charcoal mixed with loam ; > whole being
put loosely into the pots, without breaking the compost into small particles.
Under this treatment, Bananas, only two years old, grow to a very large
size and bear fruit. Greenhouse and hardy plants are grown in the same
manner, and with similar success.

Ecuites.—Two new species of this genus, resembling in shape E.
suberecta, have been flowered in the stove of Messrs. Veitch and Son,
Exeter. One of these new species has flowers of a beautiful rose colour,
and the other has dark crimson flowers.

Fucusta.—The Port Famine Fuchsia (F. discolor), though quite hardy
in the north of Scotland, will not stand well near London, as it is much
injured by smoke.

Heatus are grown at Bicton in a mixture of charcoal and sandy peat,
aud a great number of pebbles are mixed with the soil in each pot, so
as to keep the whole of the earth open. Mr. M‘Nab, in Edinburgh,

36

422 ‘APPENDIX.

mixes broken picces of free-stone with his soil for heaths, but Devonshire
entire pebbles are found to succeed better. It is really curious, when
one of the pebbles laid on the surface of the soil in the pots is removed,
to see what a mass of slender white rocts have formed beneath it; and
it is not possible to imagine plants growing with more health and vigour
The heaths and other straggling-growing plants are aiso trained into
compact bushes, by tying them down to small green sticks fixed in the
pots. Thisis done gradually: at first they are only tied loosely, to prevent
the danger of breaking ; but by degrees they are gradually drawn in, till
at last they assume the desired shape. »

Niruas.—Gesneracee N. oblonga is a very beautiful little plant, a
native of Guatemala, and has a dwarf stem, with hairy fleshy leaves,
something like a Gloxinia ; the flowers also resemble those of Gloxinia,
but are much smaller, and of a snowy whiteness. The plants look best
planted in clusters, and only require greenhouse heat. ,

Prorectinc.—[In the Middle and Northern States, a great many shrubs
and plants, only partially hardy, are successfully preserved through the
coldest winters by covering them with straw or bass mats, or by covering
them with a frame of boards ; it having been found by experience that
half-hardy plants will endure a great depression of temperature, if they
are not exposed to sudden rupture of the sap-vessels in thawing. For
this reason, to the surprise of many persons, tender plants growing in
shady cold exposures are frequently found in the spring to be quite
uninjured after a severe winter, while those in a warm southern aspect,
having been exposed to the sudden and great alternations of temperature
usual in this climate, are destroyed quite down to the root. The leading
principle, therefore, in the various modes for the protection of out-of-door
plants, shrubs, or trees, is founded upon preserving them from the influence
of the sun, and from the consequent sudden thawing and freezing, rather
than in endeavouring to retain any warmth by covering them from the
external cold.

In covering with straw or mats, (especially im the case of evergreen
shrubs,) care must be taken not to sheath or bind them tightly about the
branches, as when this has been done, we have known the branches, and
sometimes the whole shrub, to be destroyed or stifled for want of air.
The sheathing should be put on very loosely, and, in the case of low shrubs,
rough frames, covered with mats, or coarse baskets made for the purpose

and turned over the whole plant, are the best modes. Beds of carnations,
and other half-hardy plants, may be very safely protected by a loose

APPENDIX. 423,

covering of the branches of Kalmia or Common Laurel, or of any other
evergreen.— Ep. ]

Quassta is found to injure tender shoots, if not washed off in tne same

manner as tobacco water.

Suepue’rp1a—{ Shephérdia argentia, commonly known as the Buffalo-
berry, is a favourite shrub in American gardens, both on account of its
blooming at a very early period in spring, and its fine appearance when,
in autumn, its branches are thickly clad with rich clusters of crimson
fruii, somewhat resembling, in colour and size, that of the common Cur-
rant. Uhese berries are not only highly ornamental, but, when slightly

touche? by the frost, are also very palatable, and make a good preserve.

As the Buffalo-berry is a diecious shrub, bearing its male and female
flowers on different plants, it is generally sent out from the Nurseries in
pairs, and the two sexes should be planted near each other, in order to
obtain fruit. Bees are very fond of the blossoms, and an admirable hedge
may be formed of this shrub, it being compact and neat in its growth,
armed with thorny branches, and bearing the shears remarkably well.—
Ep.]

Tropzotum.—The elegant blue Tropeolum, which has been so much
talked of, flowered beautifully in Messrs. Veitch’s nursery at Exeter, in
the autumn of 1842. There are two plants which appear to be different
species: the one having dark blue flowers with a white centre, and the
other being all pale blue. The habit of both plants is that of T. brachy-
ceras, with tuberous roots; and they are natives of Chili, like most of the
other perennial species. TJ. edule is a beautiful _ pecies, with bright
orange and green flowers; and other fine species are expected soon to
flower, from the great number of tubers sent to England from Chili in
1840 and 1841. The choicer kinds of tuberous Tropeolum may be pro-
pagated by grafting them on tubers of the commoner kinds, in the way
already directed for grafting the Peony and the Dahlia.

?

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MONTHLY CALENDAR ;
OFr

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE FLOWER-GARDEN |

[Norz.—The climate of England is so mild, that many of the opera-
tions of Gardening can be continued out-of-doors, even in mid-winter.
This, however, not being the case where our gardens are sealed up in
frost and snow for at least two months, the directions in the follcwing
calendar for the months of January and February are not applicable here

If, however, the gardener finds but little to employ him in winter, the —

great rapidity with which spring advances, after it begins, almost over-
whelms him with the multiplicity of its cares and duties. The labours
of January and February in England, have, in this country, to be crowd-
ed into the same time with those of March or April, and it is almost
certainly the case, therefore, that something is left undone or imperfectly
executed. A skilful gardener will, to a considerable extent, obviate this,
by having every thing done that it is possible to in the previous au-
tumn ; especially by taking care that the whole garden is left in the clean-
est state, as regards weeds and rubbish of every description, and that
all preparatory trenching, levelling, &c., is finished before winter com-
mences.—Ep.]

*

« JANUARY.

Tue gravel walks should be occasionally rolled, particularly after a
thaw; and if the thaw be attended with heavy rain or melting snow,
care should be taken to open the drains, and keep them 7... of rubbish
and withered leaves, which are very apt to choke them up. Snow
should never be suffered to lie on the walks of small gardens, as it is apt
to render them soft; and gutters or drains should be provided on each
side, particularly on sloping gate to prevent the heavy raine from_

*

2

426 ; | MONTHLY CALENDAR OF WORK |

ploughing up the walks and washing away the gravel. If the season

should be wet and rather mild, weeds will begin to appear on the gravel —

walks, when they should be instantly destroyed, either by hand-picking,
or watering with a strong solution : of salt and water. If the weather
shouia be- mild and dry, air may be given to the greenhouse, and half-
hardy piants kept in pits, or planted in the open ground, and covered
during winter. The latter. ‘kind of: plants are very apt to damp off, if
kept too close in mild weather. Honeysuckles, Clematises, and other
deciduous climbing plants, may be pruned if the weather be open; and
the dead wood cut out of flowering trees and shrubs. Snails and slu

"may be destroyed in this month, as they will begin to move if

weather be mild; and the easiest way of killing them 1 is to throw fiom
into a cistern or other large vessel of water, where they will be very
soon drowned ;—worms may be destroyed in the same manner.

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a4

, FEBRUARY.

In this month the borders are dug over and manured ; the best general
manure being the remains of an old hotbed, or celery trenches from the
kitchen garden. Beds are prepared for Anemones and Ranunculuses,
and the tubers planted. Hotbeds are prepared for the tender annuals,
and the climbing kinds should be sown: of these the most beautiful are
Ipomea rubro-cerulea, the beautiful blue Ipomea: Tropeolum cana-
riensis, aduncum, or peregrinum, the Canarybird flower; Rhodochiton
volubile, sometimes called Lophospermum Rhodochiton ; Lophospermum
scandens, and erubeseens ; Cobzea scandens; and Maurandya Barclay-
ana. Eccremocarpus or Calempelis scabra may also be raised from seed,
and will flower the first year, but it will live two or three years, and
sometimes longer. Most, or all of the others, will also live more than
one year, if protected fron frost. The gravel walks require the same at-
tention as in January, and snails and slugs should be killed, and the eggs
of insects looked for and destroyed. ‘The deciduous Roses may be prun-
ed and manured; and the old plants may be taken up and replanted, to
prevent them from producing too much wood. Composts are also now
prepared in the reserve ground. The turf is swept, and the whole garden
put in order for spring.

aie

*

*

mo > See Se

TO BE. -vE IN THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 427
& * «tga?
MARCH. ’

»
*

Dantias are potted, and placed in a cold frame or pit. Stocks and
China Asters are sown on a slight hotbed. ~ Lobelia gracilis and L. bico-
lor, Phlox Drummondi, Gaillardia bicolor, Thunbergia a!ata. Anagallis
Monelli and Phillipii, the Petunias, and other half-hardy annuals, should
also be sown on a slight hotbed at the beginning of this month, if not
sown with the climbing annuals in February; and Balsams, Cocks-
combs, and other tender annuals, may be sown on a warm hotbed. The
gravel walks are now raked over, and fresh gravel added; and the edges

are trimmed with a verge cutter where the walks are bordered wie

grass. The turf is mowed, and any places that may be burnt’ up or
worn bare, are repaired by patches of fresh turf. Dahlia seeds are sown
on hotbeds. _ Pots of hyacinths and tulips, that were planted in October,
are plunged into the borders; and the scarlet Lobelias are potted, and
placed ina gentle hotbed. The tree Peony should be covered at night
during this month and the next, to protect it from spring frosts.

APRIL.

Tue gravel walks are rolled, and the box edgings trimmed. The
borders are forked over and raked for sowing the seeds of annuals,
which is best done in this month, though it is sometimes deferred till
May. The evergreen Honeysuckles and Jasmines, and the evergreen
Roses, are now pruned and trained. Cuttings of Verbenas, Salvias,
Petunias, Mimulas, Fuchsias, Calceolarias, and Heartseases, may be

planted on a slight hotbed, to make handsome plants for turning out.

into the open borders in June. The seeds of Hollyhocks, Brompton
Stocks, Wallflowers, and other biennials, may be sown, and the Cali
fornian annuals sown in autumn may be removed to beds prepared to
receive them.

y MAY. . >
In this month a second sowing is made of the hardy annuals for
autumn flowering ; and the half-hardy annuals are transplanted into the
open ground, sheltering them for a day or two by turning a flower-pot
over them. The greenhouse plants standing in the open ground, which
were protected during winter, are now uncovered. The Lobelias, Ver

benas, Salvias, Petunias, and other half-hardy plants that were in pots, — .

are now planted out; the hardy annuals sown in March and April are

« > ae

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plungec in the borders. a

a ee - lat ©. ‘

428 a MONTHLY CALENDAR OF Wor

a) ee eee
thinned out, and transplanted ; and the stems o% she Phloxes and other of
coarse-growing herbaceous plants are cut in, taking away about a third

part, as when they are suffered to hev: too much herbage it weakens

the flowers. The gravel walks ist now be carefully attended to,
sweeving and gelling them frequentiy, and the turf must be mowed
once a week. Fots of Ixias and other summer- -flowering bulbs are now

JUNE. . a ye ee

Tue Dahlias are planted out in this month in beds, the plants k d 7 |
four or five feet apart every way. The cuttings of greenhouse plants,
which were made purposely for pianting out, are now. put into the &
ground ; and the Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, and other greenhouse plants, .
are planted cut. ‘The Aphides now begin to apie on the Rose trees,
and they should be destroyed by dipping the tops of the shoots. into ote
clear water, and shaking them gently in the water. All ‘the insects -
may be thus removed, without disfiguring the tree. A brown grub (the
larva of a kind of saw-fly) now appears in the Rose buds, and should
be removed by hand-picking. Many good flower-gardeners prefer cut-
ting their box-edgings. in this month, just when the plants have nearly ~
completed their annual shoots, as they afterwards push out a few leaves;
«nd thus the edging does not show the mark of the knife, which it does

mhen cut later.

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Tue withered Roses and other flowers should be eut off as soon as”
they fade, as nothing disfigures a flower-garden more than dead flowers. _
Some of the herbaceous plants that have done flowering should be cut’ —
jown, and the pots of summer bulbs should be removed to give place to
Pelargoniums, German and Russian Stocks, &c., which will continue

JULY.

?
7

‘n flower till October. The annual plants from the May sowing are a
now thinned out ; and cuttings of greenhouse plants are put in the open

border, under hand-glasses. Pyramids and pillars of Roses should now ~*
be trained carefully, and tied so as to present a mass of bloom. ‘The .

turf should be mown every week, and the broad-leaved grasses, and other
plants, such as daisies, removed, where their epesahgamet iced to

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: TO BE DONE IN THE FLOWER-GARDEN. i ‘ _ 429 Re,
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om ~ AUGUST. :
» Tue flower-borders must be frequently 1 veedéd during this month, 7
“ great care being taken to preven: the weeds from rivening their seed. 4

-

The vacant places made by plants that have flowered, and have had

their stalks cut down, may be now _ generally. supplied by greenhouse ~

plants, such as Mesembryanthemums, &c.; or by pots of. Thunberzia
alata, Schizanthus retusus, Hy brid calceolarias, &c., which have been
_ prageced purposely for filling up blanks. A number of German Stocks
_ Asters, which have been. provided in pots, may now be planted
among the pinks which have done flowering, and they will produce an
7 excellent effect. The Evergreens in the shrubberies may be pruned so
as to prevent them from touching each other; and those seeds that are
ripe may be geatherake The bulbs of Crown Imperials and Lilies are

_ planted. The gravel walks should be frequently rolled and swept, and — a

~ the turf regularly mown every week, to render the grass fine. The .
Al dead flowers should also be i oa oae ° taken off, as sae as they appear. *
SEPTEMBER.
#

TuE operations of August are continued, with the addition of begin-
ning to take up the greenhouse plants towards the close of the month.
Some ate left in the ground all the winter, coverings being made for
them of .various kinds. The seeds of the Californian annuals are és
sown on some waste ground to stand the winter, whence they may be

‘removed in spring to beds properly prepared for them. The half-hardy
* plants, which are still in flower, are lightly covered with furze branches,
or worsted netting, at night, when frost is apprehended; sticks being ~ ~~ ©
placed to support the netting over the plants. Some gardeners do not
cut their box-edgings till this month, when they clip them with shears; >
. but this is a bad practice, as the leaves which have been injured by the
shears retain the marks till the following May; and weak plants are s
. frequently killed, or the lower part of their stalks rendered bare. —

OCTOBER.

Buss of Hyacinths, Sg: ‘are, planted in pots. Anemones are also
planted in beds. The dead leaves of trees and shrubs are swept up and
laid in heaps to decay for vegetable mould. The Dahlias which have |
been killed by the frost, have a tubers taken up and laid tc dry ;
ae *

FHS -~ « -@, ~—
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; > = i ~
430 ‘ MONTHLY CALENDAR, ETC.) ae

»

after which they are packed up in boxes, or . saw-dust, or malt- *
dust, to preserve them from frost. “The remainder of the greenhouse
plants are taken in, and those that are left out are covered carefully at
night from the frost. The gravel walks are swept and rolled occasionally,
and the gutters and drains | should be all opened and cleared. The turf

_ should be swept, but it need not now be mowed oftener than once a fort-

> e *
»

night @ three weeks.

. NOVEMBER. P ”. rhe
Tue Dahlias, if not all killed by the frost the preceding month, should - >

now be taken up; and the greenhouse plants being all removed, the —
ground should be dug over, having previously received a good dressing
of vegetable mould. The half-hardy plants are now closely covered up
with furze, or baskets of wicker-work ; over which mats are thrown in
severe frosts, and coal-ashes and moss are put over the roots of those
plants which are only a little tender. The turf is mowed once during
this month, if the weather should be open; and the gravel walks seldom

==

require any attention. e - *

»

DECEMBER.

Ir the weather should be open, the flower-beds planted in summer
with Stocks, Verbenas, &c., should be dug two spades deep, and dressed
with strong stable manure. If the grass should continue growing, the
turf may be mown once during this month. ‘The dead leaves should be ~
swept into a heap, and fresh slaked lime mixed with them to hasten
their decay; thus treated, and frequently turned over, they will make
fine vegetable mould for the ensuing summer. P "

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