GEORGE I. COCURAN MEYER ELSASSER DR. JOHN R. HAYNES WILLIAM L. HONNOLD JAMES R. MARTIN MRS. JOSEPH F. SARTORI 10 the UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SOUTHERN BRANCH JOHN FISKE GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. A GUIDE TO THE AMATEUR IN THE FRUIT, VEGETABLE, AND FLOWER GARDEN, WITH FULL DIRECTIONS FOFv THE GREENHOUSE, CONSERVATORY, AND WINDOW GARDEN. BY PETER HENDERSON, ATTTHOB OF "GABDENING FOB PBOFIT," " PBACTICAL FLOBICtTLTTJBB," "HAND- BOOK OF PLANTS," " GABDEN AND FARM TOPICS," " HOW THE FABM PATS," ETC. NEW, ENLARGED EDITION. ILLUSTRATED. NEW YORK: ORANGE JTTDD COMPANY, 1898. 8823;") Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1887, by th3 O. JUDD CO., In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. CONTENTS. Preface to Second Edition 7 Introduction to First Edition 8 CHAPTER I. Location and Soil 9 CHAPTER II. Drainage 10 CHAPTER III. Preparation of the Ground 13 CHAPTER IV. Walks 14 CHAPTER V. Man ures 17 CHAPTER VI. Special Fertilizers for Particular Plants. 20 CHAPTER VII. The Lawn 22 CHAPTER VIII. Designs for Garden 27 CHAPTER IX. Planting of Lawns and Flower Beds... '. 31 r.T CHAPTER X. ^ Fall or Holland Bulbs, etc 44 CHAPTER XI. H Propagation of Plants by Seeds 61 CHAPTER XII. j^ Propagation of Plants by Cuttings... 64 tO CHAPTER XIII. .H Propagating by Layering... 68 P4 CHAPTER XIV. About Grafting and Budding 69 CHAPTER XV. How Grafting and Budding are Done 74 CHAPTER XVI. Treatment of Tropical Bulbs, Seeds, etc 80 CHAPTER XVII. The Potting of Plants 83 CHAPTER XVIII. Winter-Flowering Plants 85 CHAPTER XIX. Unhealthy Plants— The Remedy 104 CHAPTER XX. Plants Suited for Summer Decoration 106 (III) IV CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXI. Hanging Baskets n* CHAPTER XXIL Window Gardening - llb CHAPTER XXIII. Culture of Water Lilies and other Aquatic Plants 118 CHAPTER XXIV. The Chrysanthemum - 147 CHAPTER XXV. Parlor Gardening, or the Cultivation of Plants in Rooms 153 CHAPTER XXVI. Wardian Cases, Ferneries, and Jardinieres 159 CHAPTER XXVII. Greenhouses Attached to Dwellings 161 CHAPTER XXVIII. Detached Greenhouses, Modes of Heating, etc 165 CHAPTER XXIX. Greenhouses or Pits without Artificial Heating 184 CHAPTER XXX. Combined Cellar and Greenhouse 186 CHAPTER XXXI. Hardy Shrubs, Climbers, and Trees 189 CHAPTER XXXII. Hardy Herbaceous Perennials 193 CHAPTER XXXIII. Flowers which will Grow in the Shade 199 CHAPTER XXXIV. Insects and other Parasites In j urious to Plants - 200 CHAPTER XXXV. Frozen Plants _. 208 CHAPTER XXXVI. Mulching 209 CHAPTER XXXVII. Shading 211 CHAPTER XXXVIII. The Law of Color in Flowers 215 CHAPTER XXXIX. Humbugs in Horticulture 216 CHAPTER XL. .238 CHAPTER XLI. Hardy Grapes 238 CHAPTER XLII. The Cold Grapery 247 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XLIII. The Hothouse or Forcing Grapery 258 CHAPTER XLIV. The Strawberry - 256 CHAPTER XLV. Cottage Gardening — A Digression - 301 CHAPTER XLVI. The Vegetable Garden 303 CHAPTER XL VII. Garden Implements 359 Monthly Calendar of Operations 385 ILLUSTRATIONS. Rubble Drain 11 Horse-shoe Drain Tile 11 Triangular Board Drain.. 12 Approach to a House — Drive andPath 15 Section of Road with Drain eachside 16 Design for Laying out Grounds., 28 Design for Grounds with Carriage Drive 30 Diagram of Flower Bed.. 32 Section of Flower Bed 33 Carpet Bed as Planted.... 87 Design for Flower Bed 37 Design for Flower Bed 38 Design for Flower Bed 39 Design for Flower Bed 40 Design for Flower Bed 41 Design for Flower Bed 42 Fancy Bedding at Lincoln Park, Chicago 43 Group of Holland Bulbs.- 46 Pot Culture of the Bermu- daLily. 49 Lily of the Valley 51 Lilv of the Valley "Pip" —Good 52 Amaryllis (Vittata Type).. 58 Cyclamen 60 Proper and Improper State of Cutting 65 Saucer Propagation 67 Propagation by Layering.. 68 Cleft Grafting (the Cleft). 76 Cleft Graf ting (the Cion).. 76 Cleft Grafting (Graft fitted) 76 Whip Graft.. 77 Side Graft 77 Grafting the Camellia 78 33. Budding (the Bud) 79 34. Budding (the Cut) 79 35. Budding (the Bud iu place) 79 36. Budding (the Bud tied)-. 79 37. Rustic Hanging Basket. .-113 38. A Veranda Garden 115 39. Plain Window Box 116 40. Window Box Ornamented with Tiles 117 41. Aquatic Plants m Central Park ...124 42. Water Lily Bed 126 43. Amazon Lily, Victoria regiaV2& 44. Nymphaea Devoniensis 132 45. ChrysanthemumMrs. Brett 150 46. Chrysanthemum Culling- fordi 152 47. Folding Plant Stand 157 48 Wardian Case 159 49. Fernery with Glass Shade. 159 50. Base-burning Boiler 162 51. Base-burning Boiler (Sec- tion) 162 52. Conservatory attached to Dwelling (Elevation) 163 53. Conservatory attached to Dwelling (Ground Plan) .163 54. Conservatory attached to Dwelling ,..164 55. Greenhouse with equal Spans 166 56. End View and Plan of Greenhouse or Grapery. .167 57. Elevation (in part) of De- tached Greenhouse or Grapery 168 58. Three-quarter Span Green- house .--171 59. Greenhouse, Rose House, and Potting Room 173 VI INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. 60. Greenhouse, Rose House, or Vineiy 174 61. Conservatory with Wings. 175 63. Greenhouse heated by Flue under the center Bench- .178 63. Section of Greenhouse heated by a Flue ..180 64. Sunken Pit 185 65. Greenhouse and Cellar Combined 188 66. Where to Cut in Pruning (too close to Bud) 236 67. Where to Cut hi Pruning (too far from Bud) 336 68. Where to Cut in Pruning (the proper place) 236 69. Pruning tor Shape (where to Cut) -237 70. Pruning for Shape (to throw branches in). 287 71. Pruning for Shape (to throw branches out) 237 72. Grape Vine with Two Shoots -.. 240 73. Grape Vine with Arms. . . .240 74. Grape Vine Spur-Pruned. .241 75. View of a Vineyard 242 76. Grape Vine Cutting 243 77. Niagara Grape in Fruit .... 245 78. Greenhouse or Grapery (Section) .247 79. Lean-to Grapery (Section) 249 80. Forcing Grapery (Plan) .-..254 81. Front Elevation of Forcing Grapery '.255 82. Section of ForcinirGrapery 255 83. Strawberry (Striking in Pots).. 258 84. Strawberry,the Henderson 261 85. Strawberry, Crimson Clus- ter 262 86. Strawberry, Jersey Queen 263 87. Strawberry, Sharpless 264 88. Strawberry, the Jewell -...265 89. Strawberry Forcing House 267 90. Raspberry, Laying down Canes 271 91. Raspberry, Training to a Wire..::.. * 271 92. Raspberry, the Hansell . ... 272 93. Raspberry, Golden Queen. 274 94. Black Cap Raspberry (Thimbleberry), the Gregg 275 95. Blackberry, the Early Harvest 277 96. Blackberry, the Wilson, Jr. 278 97. Blackberry or Dewberry, Lucretia --279 98. Blackberry, Crystal White.280 99. Currant, Fay's Prolific.. -.281 100. Currant, Black Champion -281 101. Gooseberry, The lndustry.283 102. Cherry, Black Tartarian ..287 103. Persimmon, Japan 290 104. Apple, Fall Pippin 294 i 105. Pear, The Keitter 295 ' 106. Pear, Cordon Training- ...296 107. Pear, The Bartlett 297 108. Plan for Fruit and Vege- table Garden 304 109. Asparagus, Plant With Roots 305 110. Asparagus, The Palmetto -306 111. Artichoke, Globe. -.308 112. Artichoke, Jerusalem 308 113. Brussels Sprouts 313 114. Cauliflower, Henderson's Early Snowball 315 115. Cabbage, Savoy 316 116. Carrot, Varieties of 317 i 117. Celery, "Handling" 320 118. Celery, Banked Up 321 1 119. Celery, Stored in Trenches for Winter 322 120. Celery, Henderson's White Plume ... ..-323 121. Corn, Varieties of Sweet.. 326 , 122. Bryant's Plant Protector. .327 I 123. Lettuce, Black-seeded Simpson 332 124. Lettuce, Paris White Cos.333 125. Musk Melon, Baltimore ._334 126. Musk Melon, Montreal Market ....334 127. Water Melon, Scaly Bark. 335 128. Mushrooms 337 129. Onion, Southport White Globe 341 130. Pea, American Wonder. ..343 131. Pea, Champion of Eng- land 345 132. Rhubarb, St. Martin's 348 133. Sea Kale rf50 134. Squash, Essex Hybrid.. 352 135. Squash, Hubbard ..353 136. Tomato Perfection Grown on Trellis 354 137. Tomato Perfection .355 138. Turnip, White Egg 356 139. Turnip,Extra Early Milan 357 140-203. Garden Implements, ---- --.. ...359-384 Tail Piece, a Cluster of Grapes - -298 PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. TWELVE years Tiave passed since the first edition of " Gardening for Pleasure " was published. In that time vast strides and changes have been made in all depart- ments of horticulture, so that it has been found necessary not only to greatly enlarge the scope of this work, but also to make many changes. The newest and best methods of culture have been substituted for such as a farther experience has shown to have been faulty, so that it is believed that in all matters pertaining to amateur gardening, or "gardening for pleasure," the ground is as well covered as is practicable in a book of this size treating on such a great variety of subjects. As in the first edition, I have endeavored to use the plainest and simplest language I could, avoiding as far as possible all technical and scientific terms used by the professional gardener, the use of which would only tend to coniuse and befog the beginner. Although this work is written only for such as garden for pleasure, yet I am well aware that hundreds every season, who have a taste for horticulture, branch out from private into commercial gardening, either from necessity or for a love of making a business of the work. To such, if the business of growing flowers or plants for sale is to be begun, my new edition of "Practical Floriculture" is recommended. If growing fruit or vegetables for market, I advise " Gardening for ProSt." If the work of the farm is wanted to be made profitable, I flatter myself that my recent work on that subject, " How the Farm Pays," will help to that end. PETER HENDERSON. INTRODUCTION TO FIRST EDITIOJN. I HAVE endeavored, in writing " Gardening for Pleas- ure," to divest it, as far as I was competent to do so, of the technical terms and phrases which professional gar- deners use in writing or talking on matters relating to horticulture, and to use tne plainest language at my command in describing the simplest methods of culture. Whether I have succeeded in making the subject as clear as I have desired to do, those who read the work must decide. My aim in writing the book was to make it such as would be useful to the' occupant of a city lot, or to the possessor of a few window plants, as well as to the owner of a country residence that is fully appointed in all mat- ters relating to the cultivation of flowers, fruits, and vegetables. The necessity for such a book has been made evident to me by inquiries from hundreds of amateurs in gardening ; inquiries to many of which neither of my previous works ("Gardening for Profit" or " Practical Floriculture") furnished proper replies ; the one being written mainly for information for the market gardener, and the other for the commercial florist. PETER HENDERSON. (8) GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. CHAPTER I. LOCATION AND SOIL. WHENEVER practicable the location of the garden should be such as is sheltered from the north and west, either by hills or belts of timber. Where there is no such shelter naturally, it is of the first importance to plant belts of evergreens, such as Norway or Hemlock Spruce, in double or treble lines, at distances of six or eight feet apart, or if close enough to form hedges, all the better. When this is not done, a high board fence for shelter will answer a temporary purpose, but is neither so ornamental nor so effective as the shelter given by growing trees. Evergreens, such as Norway or Hemlock Spruce, can be bought from two to three feet high, at from $15 to $25 per hundred, and should be planted, according to size, from three to four feet apart, making a cheap and ever-improving screen or fence, which may be trimmed to any required hight or thickness. It is rare, in determining the site for a residence, that the soil is taken into consideration, and, in consequence, we sometimes find that the garden surrounding the house presents a barren appearance, that nothing can remedy short of placing a foot of good soil over the whole surface. This condition is not so often due to the natural poverty (9) 10 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. of the soil, as to the grading off the surface soil, or to filling up to the desired grade with the material thrown out in excavating the cellars, or other subsoil, clay, or gravelly material, and placing these over the soil intended for the garden. This is often done for the convenience of contractors, to the great injury of the proprietor, without either being aware of the bad results. As a good soil will tend more than all else to give satis- factory results in garden operations, it is all important to secure it. When discretion can be used in deciding on a location, one should be chosen that has naturally a suit- able soil, rather than to attempt to make it so by carting a foot of good soil over the bad, which would be found not only very expensive, but, in many situations, next to impracticable. I have before said, in some of my writ- ings on this subject, that the soil best suited for all gar- den purposes is what is known as " sandy loam," not less than ten inches deep, with a subsoil of sand or gravel. Such a soil rarely requires drainage, is easily worked, and gives better results than that known as "clayey loam," with a putty-like subsoil of blue or yellow clay, which must be drained thoroughly before a seed is sown or a plant set out, or there will be no satisfactory reward for the labor. CHAPTER II. DRAINAGE. As drainage will be in many instances indispensable to success, I will briefly state a few of the simplest methods that may be adopted, premising that it is utterly useless to expect to cultivate any soil satisfactorily that does not freely and rapidly carry off the surface water. An expert DRAINAGE. 11 in soils can determine almost to a certainty, by digging down two or three feet, whether or not a soil requires drainage ; bnt the safest guide for the inexperienced is to judge by the growing crops in his neighborhood. If on a similar soil good crops of corn, potatoes, or hay are found on undrained land, then it is certain there is no ne- cessity to drain; for no matter how cultivated, or how heavily manured land is, there can never be a good crop raised in any season, if the soil is water-logged. If the place to be drained is of large extent, , i i -i. -n ^^«BP«w«P««aiii«wi and the ground nearly level, it will • L_BOTBLH DRAIN. always be safer to call in the services of an engineer to give the proper levels and indicate the necessary fall, which should never be less than half a foot in the hundred, and if more can be had, so much the bet- ter. In heavy, clayey soils, we make our lateral drains three feet deep and fifteen feet apart. Where there is less clay in the subsoil we make them from twenty to thirty feet apart and four feet deep. If stones are plenty on the ground, they may be profitably used in filling up the excavated ditch to half its depth, as shown in figure 1, Fig. 2. — HOBSE-SHOE DRAIN TILE. and which is known as a rubble drain, using the larger stones at the bottom and smaller at top, and covering over with inverted sods, or six inches of shavings or hay, to keep the soil from being washed in among the stones, and thus choking up the drain. But when they can be 12 GARDENING FOK PLEASURE. obtained at a reasonable price, the best and most durable draining is that done by tiles. It makes but little differ- ence whether the tile used is the round with collars, or the horse-shoe. We rather prefer the latter, particularly if the bottom of the drain is "spongy," when we use a board for the bottom of the drain, as shown in figure 2. Here, again, great care must be used in covering up the tile with sods, shavings, or other covering, so as to pre- vent the soil being washed into the crevices and choking up the drain. This board is a common one of hemlock or spruce, cut in four pieces. It is ripped through the middle, and then these parts split in two, making boards of five inches wide by half an inch in thickness, thus Fig. 3.— TBIAHGULAK BOARD DBAIN. making the common hemlock board stretch out to a length of fifty feet. It is often a very troublesome mat- ter to get the few drain tiles necessary to drain a small garden, and in such cases an excellent and cheap substi- tute can be had by using one of boards. Take ordinary rough boards, pine, hemlock, or spruce, cut them into widths of three or four inches, and nail them together BO as to form a triangular pipe, as represented in fig- are 3, taking care to " break the joints" in putting the lengths together. Care must also be taken that the boards are not nailed together too closely, else they might swell so as to prevent the water passing into the drain to be carried off. These drains are usually set with a flat side down, but they will keep clear better if put with a point down, though it is more trouble to lay them. Drains made in this way will last much longer than might be sup- posed. In excavations recently made we found wooden PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. 13 drains in perfect order that had been in the ground for twenty-five years. CHAPTER III. PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. AFTER draining (if draining is necessary) comes the preparation of the soil. Presuming that the ground where the new garden is to be made is an open space, clear of trees or other obstructions, there is no cultiva- tion so cheap and yet so thorough as plowing and har- rowing. To do this properly, the ordinary plow should be followed by the subsoil plow, stirring the subsoil up about fifteen inches deep, so that the water will pass through to the drains, natural or artificial, freely. After the plow and subsoiler, follows the harrow (the Acme is the best ; see Implements), which should be weighted, so that the teeth sink six inches into the soil, in order to completely pulverize it. In Europe, it would be consid- ered sacrilege to use a plow or harrow in the preparation of a private garden, and most of old-country gardeners among us will stand aghast at such advice ; but I have been through all parts of the work, and am well satisfied, from no limited practice, that plowing and harrowing will not only do the work at one-fourth of the cost, but in a better manner than the ordinary digging or trench- ing with the spade. Let me here caution that great care be taken never to plow, dig, harrow, rake, or hoe ground when wet. If work must be done, pull out weeds, or set plants, if you will, but never, under any circumstances, stir the soil in preparation for a crop until it is dry enough not to clog. If stirred while wet, the particles stick together, and the crop is not only injured for the season, but in some soils the bad effects show for years. 14 GARDENING FOK PLBASUEE. CHAPTER IV. WALKS. IT is no unusual thing to see the owner of a neat cot- tage make himself perfectly ridiculous by the way in which he lays out the walk from the street to his front door. There is a prevailing opinion that such walks should be curved ones, and gentlemen, often otherwise shrewd and intelligent, place themselves without ques- tion in the hands of some self-styled "garden architect," and thus manage to make themselves the laughing stock of a neighborhood. There was a well-marked instance of this in a garden occupying a block in almost the cen- ter of Jersey City, where a man pretending to have a full knowledge of the subject, induced the proprietor to have a walk running about one hundred yards from the street to the house, made so curved that its length was nearly twice that distance. It was hard on the butcher's and grocer's boys, and it was said that even book-peddlers, sewing-machine agents, and lightning-rod men looked ruefully at it and left him in peace. Some old authority on this subject says that there "never should be any deviation from a straight line unless from some real or apparent cause." So if curved lines are insisted on, a tree, rock, or building must be placed at the bend as a reason for going around such obstacles. It will be evi- dent to any one who reflects upon the matter, that a curved walk running a distance of a hundred yards or so from the street to the house, across an implanted lawn, is utterly absurd. All short foot-walks from the street to the house should be straight, entering from the street at as near right angles us possible, and leading direct to the front door. There should be no necessity for a carriage road to the front entrance of a house, unless it is distant WALKS. 15 at least 100 feet from the street, and then a drive is best made by having an entrance at each side of the lot, as given in figure 4, presuming that the width of the ground is 500 feet, and the distance from the street to the front door is 150 feet. Even here the foot-walk should be direct. The width of the roads or walks must be governed by the extent of the grounds. For carriage- way the width should not be less than ten feet, and for foot-walks, five feet. Nothing is more annoying than to Fig. 4. — APPROACH TO A HOUSE — DRIVE AND PATH. have a shower-bath in early morning from the dew from an overhanging branch in your narrow walk. We often see gardens of considerable pretensions where the walks are not more than three fet wide, where it is utterly im- possible for two persons to walk abreast without getting their dresses torn or faces scratched by overhanging branches. Besides, it argues a narrowness in the owner, particularly if the grounds are at all extensive, and looks as if he were determined to cultivate every available foot of land. Of course, it is another matter when the garden plot is limited to the width of a city lot (20 or 525 feet) ; then such economy of space is perfectly excusable. The character of the soil must in a great measure determine the manner of making roads or walks. Every one must have noticed that, after a heavy rain, un- paved streets in some districts remain next to impassable 16 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. for many hours, while in others, after the same amount of rain, the roads will seem firm and comparatively dry. In the former all carriage roads, and even foot-walks, to have any satisfaction from them, should have their foun- dations formed something like that shown in figure 5. This gives thorough drainage for the water at each side, and a depth of from one foot at center to two feet on sides of rubble stone and gravel to form the bed of the road or walk ; but in sandy or gravelly soils, through which the water passes quickly, no such expense is nec- essary, as an equally good road may be made by five or six inches of gravel. In foot-walks on such soils, I have Fig. 5.— SECTION OF ROAD WITH DRAIN EACH SIDE. found that three or four inches of gravel mixed with one fourth its bulk of cement to "bind," when watered and well rolled, makes an excellent smooth walk, and one in which, because of its hardness, there is no trouble with weeds. Let me here say, that when weeds are trouble- some on walks, or more particularly in paved gutters, that the quickest way to get rid of them is to sow salt over the surface about as thick as sand is strewed on a floor, and then sprinkle with water. Care must be taken, however, that the salt does not get on the grass or other plants, as, of course, it would be as quickly destructive to these as to the weeds. MANUJRES. 17 CHAPTER V. MANURES. WHETHER one wishes to cultivate vegetables, fruits, or flowers, all soils, to give good results, sooner or later need manure; and this is more particularly the case with what are known as "vegetables," these being usually quick growing, succulent plants. No "fertilizer" answers so well for all purposes as thoroughly decayed stable ma- nure ; whether from horse or cow stable makes but little difference, except that that from the horse stable is best suited for heavy soils, while that from the cow stable suits best for light soils. The quantity used for vegeta- bles or fruits should not be less than would cover the whole surface of the ground at least three inches deep, and it should be mixed with the soil as thoroughly as possible by plowing or spading. In the absence of stable manure, recourse must be had to concentrated fertilizers, the best of which are Peruvian guano and bone dust. Here a word of caution is necessary as to the quantity to be used, as their fertilizing qualities are concentrated in- stead of- being diffused, as in stable manure. If either guano or bone dust, or fertilizers of similar character, come directly in contact, in large quantities, with the roots of plants, it injures them beyond remedy ; hence in the use of these the necessity for caution. In our large field practice in vegetable growing, we use about 2,000 Ibs. per acre of guano, sowing it on the surface of the ground after plowing, and then harrowing it in so as to mix it with the soil to the depth of five or six inches. Now, as there aro 4,840 square yards in an acre, it will be seen that something less than half a pound of guano or bone dust is required for every square yard of surface to be fertilized. This quantity will just nicely cover the sur- 18 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. face about as thick as the sand on a sanded floor. After spreading on the dug surface, it should be mixed with the' soil with a spading fork or long toothed rake to the depth of five or six inches, bearing in mind that the more thoroughly it is mixed with the soil the better will be the result. If used in " hills " for corn, tomatoes, melons, etc., the same proportionate quantity is to be applied, and the mixing must be equally thorough. Wood ashes are often a convenient fertilizer, and will be found to give excellent results if used as advised for guano and bone dust ; but three or four times the quantity will be re- quired to obtain the same results. HOW TO USE CONCENTRATED FERTILIZERS. Whatever kind of concentrated fertilizer may be used, I find it well repays the labor to prepare it in the follow- ing manner : to every bushel of fertilizer add three bush- els of either leaf mold (from the woods), well pulverized muck, sweepings from a paved street, or, in the absence of either of the above, common garden soil. In every case the material employed must be as dry as it is possi- ble to procure it. When guano is used, be careful to have it thoroughly pulverized and broken up before mix- ing with the other ingredients. The fertilizer must be well mixed with the soil or mold used by turning it at least twice. This mixing should be done in winter, or early spring, and the material packed away in barrels in a dry place for at least a month before using it. The main ob- ject of this operation is for the better separation and di- vision of the fertilizer, so that, when applied, it can be more regularly distributed over the land ; besides this, no doubt the fertilizing qualities of the leaf-mold or other substance are developed by this treatment. Experi- ment has shown that this method of using concentrated fertilizers of nearly all kinds materially increases their value. One of the most successful market gardeners in MANURES. 19 our neighborhood has adopted this method for years, and in extensive experiments with different kinds of fer- tilizers, with and without being mixed, finds a saving of quite one third in quantity in thus treating them. He finds that 1,200 Ibs. of guano, mixed with two tons of garden soil, and sown over the surface after plowing, and then harrowed in, is equal in effect to 2,000 Ibs. of guano used without mixing. We have ourselves experimented with guano, blood and bone, and bone flour, with nearly like results, and as atop dressing for grass we think the advantage of mix- ing is even more marked. When fertilizers are applied to corn, potatoes, tomatoes, etc., in hills or drills, it is not only more economical to mix in this manner, but much safer in inexperienced hands; for when any strong fertilizer is used pure, injury is often done to the roots by their coming in contact with it in too great quantity in the raw state, owing to imperfect mixing in the hill or drill, while, if composted as advised above, the danger is much less. In regard to which of the fertilizers is most desirable, we find but little difference, provided each is pure. Guano at $80 per ton is relatively as cheap as blood and bone fertilizer at $G5, bone flour at $50. or superphosphate at $40 ; for in the lower priced articles we find we are obliged to increase the quantity to obtain the same results, so that the cost is nearly alike whichever be used. The all- important point is the purity of the article, a matter that few working farmers or gardeners ever attempt to decide except by the results in culture; hence we advise each one who has been using a fertilizer that has proved satisfac- tory, to experiment but lightly with another until the new article has proved its merits. The competition in the manufacture of articles so much in use as fertilizers, has in many instances forced down prices below the point at which they can be profitably produced in a pure state; hence 20 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE. the widespread adulteration with "salt cake," "plaster," and other articles utterly worthless but to make weight. Next in meanness to the quack who extracts money from a poor consumptive for his vile nostrums, is the man who compels the poor farmer or gardener, maybe a thousand miles away struggling for an existence, to pay freight on the sand mixed with his guano, or the plaster in his bone dust. In this relation I am reminded of a retribution that fell on the "Sands of Life" man, who figured so conspicuously a few years ago in New York. The adver- tisement of this philanthropic gentleman, it will be re- membered, was that "A retired clergyman, whose Sands of Life had nearly run out," would, for a consideration, tell how the "running out" could be stopped in others. A kind-hearted fellow in Illinois, deeply sympathizing with the old gentleman on account of his loss of "sand," sent him by express — but forgot to prepay — a thousand pounds of the article ! It is reported that the " retired clergyman," on opening the cask, expressed himself in a manner not only ungrateful, but utterly unclerical. We counsel no vengeance, but if some of these sand-mixing guano men could have the sand sifted out by their vic- tims with compound interest added, and returned to them under the fostering care of an express company, it would be but even-handed justice. CHAPTER VI. SPECIAL FERTILIZERS FOR PARTICULAR PLANTS. A MAN called at my office a few yenrs ago with some dozen bottles as samples of special manures, indispensa- ble, he said, as fertilizers for certain kinds of plants. He had those with him that he claimed to be specially prepared for cabbage, corn, potatoes, wheat, grass, lawns, SPECIAL FERTILIZERS FOR PARTICULAR PLANTS. 21 beets, etc., etc. He even invaded Flora's realm, and de- clared that liis nostrum for Eoses was a specific for any languid capers of this sometimes rather coquettish queen of flowers. His own arguments, which were rather plausible and glibly uttered, were backed up by numer- ous certificates — authentic, I have no doubt — where nis "potato fertilizer" had worked wonders with some, with others his "corn manure" had been of undoubted benefit, and so on all through the list. Now, I have no reason to say that the vender of these fertilizers was a quack, except the broad fact, gathered from an experience of nearly forty years, that has shown me that it makes but little difference with what fertilizer a crop is treated, provided the soil is properly pulverized and the fertilizer applied in proper proportions according to its strength. Had all his separate kinds of fertilizers been taken from the same bag (provided that bag con- tained a good article of bone dust or guano), the result to his patrons would have been the same, whether he had used it on one or all of the crops that he had special pre- scriptions for. There are few market gardeners in the vicinity of New York who have not, at one time or another, been obliged to take anything they could get for fertilizing purposes, and the difference has never been specially perceptible when manure from horse stables or cow stables have been applied, or when $100 per acre have been expended for bone dust or Peruvian guano, and these all used on a dozen different crops without any discrimination. Agricultural chemistry may be all very well in some respects, but if it gets down to such hair-splitting niceties as analyzing scores of special plants, and telling us that we must feed each with only just such food as the analysis shows it to be composed of, then our common sense, born of practical experience, must scout and ridi- cule such nonsense. GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Plants, like animals, are not so much kept in good health by the special kind of food given as by the proper quantity and conditions surrounding the individual when the food is received ; and what proper temperature and pulverization of soil are to the plant, air and exercise, and also proper temperature, are the corresponding con- ditions necessary for healthy animal life. Who will say that the beef-fed English laborer is in any way the phys- ical superior of the Irishman or Scotchman whose daily food has only been potatoes and oat-meal ? You get usually fine -and nearly equal development in each case, but it'is a condition due to a natural use of the muscles in the open air in a congenial climate rather than to anything special in the food. It would be quite as rea- sonable t:> tell us that a special food, chemically consid- ered, is necessary for each class of our domestic animals as for our domestic plants, and none but the veriest charlatan or ignoramus will do either. CHAPTER VII. THE LAWN. SINCE the introduction of the lawn mower, the keep- ing of the lawn has been so simplified that no suburban residence is complete without one, and there is now no more excuse for tall grass " going to hay " in the door yard than there would be for cobwebs taking possession of the rooms inside the dwelling. We occasionally see some parsimonious individual, even now, who remembers that in his grandfather's days grass was allowed to grow for the food of the "critters," and he leaves it for food for his "critters" still ; though at the same time his furni- ture inside, that nobody but himself ever sees, or has an THE LAWN. 23 opportunity to admire, for such men are not usually trou- bled with friends, may have cost him $5,000 or $10,000. We have two or three notable examples of this kind in our immediate neighborhood, but it is gratifying to know that such neighbors are not numerous, for the example of the majority will soon shame them into decency. To have a lawn in first rate condition, the ground must be put iii order in the way described under the heads of " Draining " and "Preparation of the Soil ;" for if these are necessary anywhere, they are still more necessary for the lawn, the soil of which should be as thoroughly pul- verized and enriched by manure as any ground intended for the cultivation of either vegetables or fruits. Great care must be taken to have the surface of the ground for the lawn (unless a very large one) made perfectly level ; for if this is not done before the lawn is sown, it cannot be altered except at great expense and inconvenience. After the surface is made level roughly, it should be further smoothed with the rake, or, what is even better, the disc harrow (see Implements), and all stones of any considerable size removed, so that the surface will be smooth for the action of the lawn mower. Wher- ever the extent of the lawn does not exceed 2,500 square feet, and where sods can be obtained from a suitable pasture near at hand without much cost, the quickest way to make the lawn is to sod it ; but before doing so, the ground should be rolled or beaten down, particularly if any por- tion of it has been filled in, so that there may be no *' settling" to form hollows or inequalities. A conven- ient size of sod to lay down is twelve by eighteen inches, and of a thickness of two inches. In laying see that the edges are neatly laid together, and the whole firmly beaten down with the back of a spade. If it is dry weather when the work is done, it may be necessary to thoroughly drench the newly-laid sod for a week or so alter, every other evening. When the lawn is too ex- 24 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. tensive to be soddel, it can be sown with grass seed, which will produce a good lawn in three or four months. Some of the fine lawns seen at Newport, K. I., are composed almost entirely of Rhode Island Bent Grass mixed with about one-sixth of white clover ; but the hu^ miditv of the atmosphere there has no doubt more to do with the richness of the lawn than the variety of grass it is composed of. I may add a caution against the use of spurious seed for this purpose. It is no uncommon thing, either through ignorance or short-sighted economy, for "hayseed" to be taken direct from the buy loft and sown to form the lawn. If from good hay, the seed will be prin- cipally orchard grass or timothy and red clover, and vain would be all the attempts to get a smooth lawn from such a source. It would be about as reasonable to expect tigs from thistles. The mixtures of grasses prepared by the seedsmen for the purpose are the simplest and safest to use. If the soil is rich, and has been thoroughly pre- pared, three bushels of the lawn grass mixture per acre will be sufficient; but if thin and poor, from four to five bushels had better be sown. If for small areas, sow at the rate of one quart for a space twenty by fifteen, or three hundred square feet. If sown in early spring, as soon as the soil is dry enough to work, a good lawn will be formed by midsummer the first year, if it has been mown regularly at intervals of eight or ten days. The seed must be sown as evenly as possible, and for this reason a calm day must be chosen, as a very slight wind will throw the seed into heaps. After sowing, the ground may be lightly harrowed if the surface is large ; if not, give it an even raking ; but in either case the ground should be smoothed down with a roller or patted with a spade, so as to form a smooth surface to be mowed. Al- though, if a choice can be had, it is best to sow the lawn seed in early spring, in this latitude in March, April, or May, yet it can be sown nearly as profitably in September, THE LAWN. 25 or in the more southerly states in October. To keep the lawn in proper condition, it should be mowed over once every week if the weather is moist, and not less than once in two weeks even in dry weather ; for if the lawn has been properly made in the first place, and "top dressed" with a good coat of well-rotted manure in fall, and the rough parts raked off in spring, the weather must be dry and hot indeed to prevent its growth. LAWNS ON SLOPING BANKS. It is exceedingly difficult to get a growth of grass from seed on a sloping bank at an angle of even fifteen degrees, because a heavy shower of rain on the sloping bank would wash off the fresh soil before the grass seed has formed enough roots to hold the young grass in place. To remedy this the following plan will be found most effective. To an area fifteen by twenty — three hundred square feet — or in this proportion, be the area large or small, take two quarts of lawn grass seed and mix it with four bushels of rather stiff soil, to which add two bushels of cow manure ; mix the whole with water to the con- sistency of thin mortar. This mixture is to be spread on the sloping bank, first having scratched the surface of the bank with a rake. It should be spread as thinly as will make a smooth and even surface ; in short, just as plaster is spread on a wall. The grass seed will start rapidly, and quickly make a sod of the richest green, its smooth, hard surface preventing its bein? furrowed out by the rains. It will be necessary, until the grass has fully covered the surface, to keep the plastered bank covered with hay or straw to prevent the covering from drying or cracking. If the weather is dry a gentle watering will hasten the growth of the seed. If sown at a season when the temperature averages seventy degrees, a green sward will be obtained in fifteen days. By this method, using orchard or other strong growing grasses, no cheaper or 26 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE. better plan could be adopted for keeping up railroad or other embankments. TO RENOVATE OLD LAWNS. Lawns that have been worn ont by neglect or other causes, or where it is not convenient or desirable to renew them by plowing up, will be greatly benefited by running a light harrow over them if the surface is large, or by a sharp steel rake for smaller areas. After stirring the surface by such means, judiciously, so as not to injure the roots too severely, lawn grass should be sown over the surface, using about half the quantity of seed required for new lawns, and over this, for each acre, or in the same proportions for lesser areas, sow five hundred pounds of some good " lawn enricher ;" again harrow or rake, and roll down firmly. WEEDS IN LAWNS, such as thistles, dandelions, dock roots, etc., can only be removed by cutting them out with a knife. Thistle and dock roots should be removed as far as possible ; but as to others, there is no necessity for cutting the whole root out. If cut beloiv the crown the root will not start again. ANTS ON LAWNS are a pest that we are almost powerless to cope with. Nothing seems to poison them, as either their instinct teaches them to avoid the ordinary insect poisons, or their constitutions are proof against them. Every thing we have tried has failed, except Pyrethrum or Persian Insect Powder. This applied by a bellows quickly suffo- cates them ; but every insect needs to be struck by it, or it is useless, as it only kills them by suffocation. ' They can also be captured by placing fresh bones or molasses in plates around their haunts ; they attack these before any thing else. By persistently thus catching and de- stroying them two or three times a day, they may be permanently got rid of. DESIGN FOR GARDEN. 27 CHAPTER VIII. DESIGN FOR GARDEN. i As this book is intended to comprehend all the wants of a cottage or suburban garden, including flowers, fruits, and vegetables, it would increase its size too much to give a great variety of designs for the flower garden. Those that require such should consult some intelli- gent landscape gardener. Intelligent, I say, for nine out of ten that pretend to be landscape gardeners are not ; but consult a man able to draw a neat design, for if he cannot do that he is not a very safe person to be intrusted with the working out of the plan of another. You are careful to ascertain that the architect for your house is a man of education and intelligence before you entrust yourself in his hands, but when it comes to de- signing the lawn and flower grounds, the veriest bog- trotter, who styles himself a "landscaper," is too often allowed to display his "art," and at the same time make you ridiculous. Rest assured that if such a pretender has not had ambition enough to become fairly well in- structed, he is not likely to show much taste in designing your grounds. The design (fig. 6) shows an area of 200 feet by 350, or a plot of nearly two acres. About one third of the whole facing the street is used for flower garden and for dwell- ing, the two-thirds in the rear for fruit and vegetable grounds. There is a point in this sketch to which I wish to call attention, as it is one too often lost sight of. The flower garden and lawn face the street, while the fruit and vegetable grounds are at the rear. The view of these from the street is shut out upon one side by a screen or tall hedge of evergreens, H, and upon the other by a curvilinear glass structure, Q, which may be used GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 200 Feet Front. Fig. 6.— DESIGN FOB LAYING OUT GROUNDS. DESIGN FOE GARDEN. 29 either as a grapery or a greenhouse. The walk, w, passes on each side of the house to connect with other walks at the rear. The beds, F, may be planted in ribbon lines either Avith flowering plants or those with brilliant and strongly contrasting foliage. The flower beds, F, each side of the entrance near the front, may be made of any form that may be preferred. A simple circle, planted as suggested in the next chapter, will produce a good effect, and be more easily cared for than beds of the style here given. Most persons, where the floral ornamentation is, as in this case, confined to a few effective masses, j refer to change not only the manner of planting such beds each year, but to alter their form occasionally. The unbroken area of lawn at c is intended for a croquet ground. At the rear of the house the central walk is spanned by a grape arbor, G A, if one wishes the vines to afford shade, or a simple trellis may run on each side. The borders next the fence on each side and at the rear (not shown in the plan) may also be used for grapes, or will be convenient for raspberries, currants, and other small fruits. The large plots, v F, are for the main crops of vegetables and fruits. Asparagus, rhubarb, straw- berries, and such other crops as remain year after year without being disturbed, should be so placed at the out- set as to be interfered with as little as possible in the frequent working of the soil necessary for other crops. A lot of this size will require the labor of one man, whose time must be exclusively devoted to the garden, and to nothing else, to keep it in proper order. Such is the extent and something near the design of the grounds I use for such purposes. I generally have selected one of my most active men to take charge of it, and find he has plenty to do to do it well. A second design (fig. 7) shows a lot of the same dimensions, with a different arrangement. There being a stable, s, and no rear en- trance, it is necessary to provide one from the front ; 30 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 200 Fee'. Front. Fig. 7.— DESIGN FOB GROUNDS WITH CARRIAGE -DRIVE, PLANTING OF LAWNS AND FLOWER BEDS. 31 and iu order to secure a greater breadth of lawn, the house is placed at one side of the centre of the grounds. The drive, D, in the design is made to turn around a group of flower beds of fanciful pattern; but this may be replaced by a single circle, planted as suggested in the next chapter, or by a group of ornamental evergreen or other shrubs. In this design the croquet ground is at c, and the grape arbor, G A, is used to shut out the view of the vegetable grounds from the street. A row of closely planted evergreens at H serves to break the force of the winds. The suggestions as to the other details in the preceding plan (fig. 6) apply to this lilco. CHAPTER IX. PLANTING OF LAWNS AND FLOWER BEDS. THE subject of lawn planting, including the proper setting and grouping of trees and shrubs, and their most effective disposal, is too extended for the scope of this book. These matters belong to works upon landscape gardening, and are ably treated in those by Downing, Kemp, Weidenmann, Scott, and others. But the plant- ing of flower beds comes properly within our limits. The old-fashioned mixed borders four or six feet wide along the walks of the fruit or vegetable garden, were usually planted with hardy herbaceous plants, the tall growing at the back, with the lower growing sorts in front. These, when there was a good collection, gave a bloom of varied color throughout the entire growing season. But the more modern style of flower borders has quite displaced such collections, and they are now but little seen, unless in very old gardens, or in botanical collections. Then, gg GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. again, we have the mixed borders of bedding plants, a heterogeneous grouping of all kinds of tropical plants, still holding to the plan of either placing the highest at the back of the border if it has only one walk, or, if a bed has a walk on each side, the highest in the middle, and the plants sloping down to the walk on each side. The mixed system still has its advocates, who deprecate the modern plan of massing color as being too formal, and too unnatural a way to dispose of flowers. But be that as it may, we will not stop to argue the matter further than to state, that on a visit to England in 1872, and again in 1885, it was most evident that the " Carpet Styles" of massing plants, as done at Battersea Park and other public gardens in London, were interesting to the people in a way that no mixed border could ever be. Any one who has not yet seen the won- derful effects produced by the massing of plants in this way, has a treat before him. Nearly all the pub- lic parks in and about London are so planted, Fi ,.,-..-7 J 3 2 1 J ,'j \ ' ' i/, ,/, X * X 'X J< &'•' ' \ \\ r\ *i X v >' \. f f//" /-'•'" ^. A *""-^X «' i v- rf 1 * 3 > *3 J ^ \ vv /Xv "V; 4 \'>-: Fig. 15. — DESIGN FOB FLOWEE BED. 1. Grass. 2. Blue Lobelia. 3. Dwarf Scarlet Tropaeolum. 4. Grass. 5. Alternrnthera paronychioides (Rainbow Plant), Crimson. 6. Alternanthera aurea nana, Yellow. account for our recommending comparatively few varie- ties of plants for the designs here given as examples. One important point in all planting of this kind is to trim the plants so that they shall form clear defined lines ; that is, if they, in growing, overlap one another, they must be pinched back so that each color shows GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 16. — DESIGN FOB FLO WEB BED 1. Blue Lobelia. 2. Alternanthera aurea nana, Yel- low. 3. Achyranthes Lindenii, Deep Crimson. 4. Geranium Mountain of Snow, White. 5. Anthemis coronaria, Double Yellow Marguerite. 6. Pink Geranium. 7. Dracaena indi visa, or Fountain Plant. 8. Geranium General Grant, Scar- PLANTING OF LAWNS AND FLOWER BEDS. clearly and distinctly where they meet, also that the top growth be so pinched back that the bed presents a smooth and even surface. "Kibbon lines, "so called, are where two or more lines Fig. 17. — FANCY BEDDING AT LINCOLN PABK, CHICAGO. 1. Vase. 2. Coleus Bacon. 3. Coleus South Park Gem. 4. Achyranthes metallica. 5. Coleus Mary Stewart. 6. Geranium Wonderful. 7. Geranium Madame Thebaud. 8. Geranium Mountain of Snow. 9. Gnaphalium lanatum. 10. Coleus Verschafleltii. of color are planted along margins of drives or walks. "Massing in colors" is shown in the designs here given, figures 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17. These illustrations were designed by George A. Solly & Son, Springfield, Mass. 44 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. CHAPTER X. FALL OR HOLLAND BULBS, ETC. THESE bulbs are mainly such as are imported from Holland in the fall, and consist of Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, Jonquils, Narcissuses, Snow-drops, Lilies, and various other less known kinds. With few exceptions, all these bulbs are hardy in our most northern states, though all are benefited by a covering of two or three inches of rough litter or leaves spread over the beds be- fore freezing weather. The soil best suited for all bulbs is a rich, but rather sandy loam. All these bulbs may be planted at any time from the middle of September until the ground is closed by frost in December. Hyacinths should be planted at distances of six or eight inches apart each way, and from three to four inches deep. Tulips, the same distance apart, but a little less deep. Crocuses three inches apart and two inches deep. Jonquils and Narcissuses may be planted four inches apart and four inches deep. Snow-drops the same as Crocuses. Very fine effects are produced by planting Hyacinths in lines each of one color, but when mixed colors are placed in the lines, care must he taken to have them arranged so that the bed will give a harmonious blending of color. Crocuses have nearly the same range of color as the Hyacinth, and may be planted either way. All these bulbs are easily grown in pots. The Hya- cinth requires a pot six inches in depth and diameter. In potting it is only necessary to fill the pot rather loosely to the brim, and press the bulb down, so that only about one-fourth of it appears above the soil. The pot should then be struck smartly on the bench to give the soil the proper degree of firmness, leaving it, when finished, about an inch or so below the rim of the pot. Then FALL OR HOLLAND BULBS, ETC. 45 water freely to still further settle the soil. When pots are not convenient, boxes four inches deep, setting the bulbs six inches apart, will do quite as well. The pots or boxes should then be placed where it is cool and dark, which will encourage a strong development of roots before the bulb starts to grow at the top. Such a situation can be made by covering up the pots or boxes with four or five inches of sand or leaves in a cool cellar, under the stage of a cool greenhouse, or in a sunken pit, or in some sheltered spot in the open air, in each case covering with sand or leaves, so as to exclude heat and frost ; for it must not be forgotten that a strong development of root can only be had at a low temperature, say from forty to fifty degrees, and any attempt to force bulbs to make roots quicker by placing them in a high temperature, will most certainly enfeeble the flower. If we only observe how nature points out to us this necessity, we will see how safe it will be to follow her. In all hardy plants, the roots in spring (when the temperature is low) begin to form the rootlets before a leaf or flower is developed. To show the bad effects when this is not the case, take a root of any of our hardy Lilies and plant it in March, and take a similar bulb and plant it in May; it will be found that the early planted bulb, that had an opportunity to slowly develop its roots before there was heat enough to start the top, will give a finer growth and finer flower than the bulb that was planted in May, and ran up into growth before it had an opportunity to suf- ficiently push its roots into the soil. The culture of all the bulbs before named, in pots, is the same as that of the Hyacinth, only the Narcissuses and Tulips should b« planted three or four in a six or seven-inch pot, and Cro- cuses ten or twelve in a pot. All these bulbs may like- wise be grown in moss, or even pure sand, provided that it is kept damp ; the necessity being a medium wherein the roots can revel in moisture. But whether potted in GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. FALL OR HOLLAND BULBS, ETC. 47 soil, sand, or moss, there will be no need to further water in this semi-dormant state (if they have been well watered at the time of potting), provided the pots have been cov- ered up as directed, and kept cool and dark. If potted say the first week in October, they may be removed from their dark quarters in seven or eight weeks, only, before doing so, turn a few of them out of the pots to see whether they have rooted around the ball of earth. They may then be placed in full light and watered freely. Holland Bulbs are also very effective in groups planted in the open border. The accompanying illustration, fig. 18, shows a group of about thirty bulbs, consisting of Hy- acinths, Tulips, Narcissuses, and Crocuses, arranged so as to give the greatest contrast in colors. HYACINTHS IN GLASSES. Although Jonquils and Narcissuses can be grown in water in glasses as well as the Hyacinth, they are not often so treated, Hyacinths being the only bulbs largely flowered in that way. The glasses for growing the lat- ter bulbs in water, are made in various styles, from the plain old-fashioned Belgian to the ornamental Bohemian, and are either plain glass or colored green, amber, claret, and other shades. The glasses, which are best of a dark color, are filled with water just high enough for the base of the bulb to touch it. The glasses must be placed in a cool and dark place. Care must be taken that the water does not freeze, else the glasses will be broken, and the Hyacinths more or less injured. Single Hyacinths are better than double ones for glasses. The water should be changed every six or eight days. THE BERMUDA EASTER LILY (Lilium Harrisi}. This is a grand variety of the well-known Lilium longiflorum, or Trumpet Lily. It was introduced seven 48 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE. years ago from Bermuda, where it was found under culti- vation. It differs from the old variety in being much larger in size ; but its most valuable quality is, that it can be grown to flower in the greatest profusion from the Christmas Holidays throughout all the winter months until spring, according to the time it is planted and the temperature at which it is kept. Tens of thousands of it are now grown for church decoration at Easter ; hence the name. The manner of cultivation is very simple, and need never fail in the hands of even the most inexperi- enced amateurs. The bulbs should be planted in what are called five-inch pots, that is, five inches deep and five inches wide at rim. The soil should be rich, at least one-third old, well-rotted manure. The pot should be rather loosely filled with this soil, and the bulb pressed down deep enough to cover the bulb merely. This may be done any time from the middle of August until De- cember. Those potted in August will be in flower by the Christmas Holidays ; those in October, November, and December correspondingly later. After potting, one of the most important things to observe is the proper placing of the pots containing the bulbs. Like all other bulbs, to get the best results in flowering, the pots must be filled with roots before the tops start to grow ; and, to do this, they must be placed in some cool place and excluded from the light. Those potted in August, September, or October can be placed outside, in the open air, and covered completely up with leaves or litter to the depth of four or five inches, until, on examination, the roots are found to be formed around the ball of earth. They should then he placed in the greenhouse or sitting-room, and if kept in a temperature of from sixty to seventy degrees, will come into bloom throughout January and February. Those potted later —say in November or December— should be placed in a cool cellar or cold frame, and covered up in the same PALL OE HOLLAND BULBS, ETC. 49 Fig. iy.— POT CULTURE OF T11E BERMUDA EASTER LILY. 50 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE. way as recommended for those placed, out of doors, until they also form roots, when, if placed in the light, in green- house or sitting-room, they will flower fr om February to April, if kept in a temperature of sixty or seventy degrees. Each bulb will give from three to twenty flowers, accord- ing to size, and not one in a hundred will fail if these simple directions are followed. The flowers are four or five inches in length, and frequently much longer, of the purest white, and of the most delicious fragrance. The Bermuda Lily is entirely hardy, when planted in the open ground, south of Washington, and will stand our winters in nearly all parts of the Northern and West- ern States, if covered up with four or five inches of dry leaves or litter, on the approach of cold weather in December. Lilium candidum was formerly known also as the Easter Lily, but the Bermuda Lily (L. Harrisi) has so superseded its use for Easter decoration, that it is hardly now known as such. It is entirely distinct from the other, and grows from two to three feet in hight, pro- ducing from six to ten flowers in a whorl at the top. Its culture, both for forcing and growing in the open ground, is almost identical with the Bermuda Lily, and it is well worthy of cultivation. LILT OF THE VALLEY (Convallario, majalis) is one of the most chaste and beautiful of all flowers. When planted in the open ground, where it is entirely hardy, its flowers are one of the first harbingers of spring. It is forced in immense quantities for winter flowers. The treatment is almost identical with that for Hyacinths and Lilies, only, whether the " pips"— the single " eyes"— or clumps containing a dozen or more "eyes" are used, they should be packed closely together in shallow boxes, and placed out of doors or other cool place for eight to nine weeks before being brought in to force for flowers FALL OE HOLLAND BULBS, ETC. 51 in winter; but, unlike bnlbs, the Lily of the Valley does not make any root growth while outside. The object of placing it outside at all is to give it a period of "rest," which is absolutely necessary before it can be forced into flower. Lily of the Valley roots are not usually . 20. — LILY OF THE VALLEY. to be had before the first of November ; and if placed in boxes then and set outside, they should not be brought in to force until the end of December. If then put in a temperature of from seventy to eighty degrees, they will come into bloom in from ten to fifteen days. It is best to bring in a few at a time, «o that they can be had in bloom throughout the winter ; (&, if wanted at any partic- GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. ular time after New Year, they can safely be relied on to flower in ten or fifteen days after being placed m a heat averaging eighty degrees. It is a good plan to cover the boxes slightly over with moss, so as to keep as moist an atmosphere as possible around the crowns while forcing them into flower. There is one rather discouraging feature to amateurs Fig. 21. — LILT OF THE VALLEY " PIP " — GOOD. in forcing Lily of the Valley, and also with most bulbs, in the fact that, after being thus artificially treated, the crowns are of no further use, to force at least. They may be planted out in the open ground in spring after forcing, and will recuperate to some extent in a year or two, but the same crowns once forced will hardly ever do again for that purpose. An exception among bulbs is the Bermuda Lily, which seems to be in no way injured by being forced. The crown, or '« pip," ^florists sometimes call it, of the FALL OR HOLLAND BULBS, ETC. 53 Lily of the Valley, when sufficiently developed to flower, should be of the size and shape shown iu figure 21. THE TUBEROSE (PoHanthes tulerosd), when grown outdoors, should never be planted until the ground is warm. A good test (which our country readers can usually always avail themselves of) is never to plant the Tuberose until the corn crop is up two or three inches high, which, in the latitude of New York, is always about the first week in June. Dry bulbs or tubers then planted will usually flower in October. If wanted earlier, the dry bulbs should be started in moss or soil, in small pots or boxes, in a greenhouse or warm room, where there is plenty of light, about the first of May. Thus forwarded, if planted out by the first week in June, they will come into flower two or three weeks earlier. Forcing the Tuberose — so as to have flowers during the winter months from January to April — cannot be done unless there are appliances of heat in the greenhouse that will keep up an average of eighty degrees, and that, too, with a moist atmosphere, as this bulb is of a nature that requires at all times a high temperature for its growth. It is, however, comparatively easy to have it produce flowers during November and December in the greenhouse by retarding the bulbs in some cool place until August. Planted then they make growth enough in the warm months of the fall to give them sufficient start to throw up the flower stems by the end of October. The greenhouse then, however, must be kept warm (say sixty- five at night with fifteen degrees higher in the daytime) for the proper development of the flowers during November and December. They should be set six or eight inches apart. The Pearl is the best for forcing, while the tall double is best for outdoor blooming. A new single variety of Tuberose, "The Albino," originated in St. Louis, Mo., 54 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. in 1887 It has the peculiarity of throwing up from two to four shoots from each bulb, and occasionally two to three branches on each stalk. The flowers are of the purest white, star shaped, being more reflexcd than the old sort. It is altogether a valuable variety, and is cer- tain to be largely used for cut dowers. It is not yet offered for sale. THE LILT (Lilium). I have already alluded to varieties of the Lily that are used for forcing in winter, which at present is confined to the white varieties, L. candidum, L. longiflorum, and L. Harrisi. The hardy garden Lilies, which embrace a great range of color, are of the easiest cultivation, and, from the regal beauty of most of the species, are perhaps the most desirable 'of all our hardy perennial plants. They will nourish in almost any soil, though, like all other plants, a deep, rich, sandy loam is the best. Lily bulbs can be set out either in fall or spring. When planted in fall they should be covered with three or four inches of leaves or other litter ; for, although perfectly hardy, withstanding the severest winter, all new plantations of any kind of plant are helped by a protection the first winter after planting. In spring planting they should be set out just as early as the ground is dry enough to work. The bulbs may be set, according to size, from three to four inches deep, and, if beds are to be formed of them, from nine t.o twelve inches apart. Although they will not bloom in complete shade, yet a position of partial shade is congenial to them ; and they will do equally well in open sunshine. The finest species are from Japan, though we have some very beautiful native kinds. The following list comprises the best known kinds : L. auratum, or Golden Banded ; L. speciosum and its va- rieties ; L. Kramer i, L. Leichtlinii, L. tigrinum flora plena, L. Thunbergianum in variety, L. longiflorum. FALL OR HOLLAND BULJS, ETC. 55 L. candidum, the oldest known species, comes from the Levant. Asia furnishes L. Chalcedonicum ; Siberia the beautiful little L. tenuifolium, which is there grown as an article of food. The United States contributes L. superbum, L. Canadense, L. Philadelphicum, L. Cates- bcei, L. Carolinianum, and L. Columbianum, together with L. WasMngtonianum, L. Humboldtii, L. parvum, L. Californicum, L. pardalinum, L. Roezlii, L. Parryi, and L. Walkeri, from California. It may be added here that the California Lilies often remain in the ground a whole year before starting to grow. THE CALLA, or Lily of the Nile, is now known to botanists as Richardia ^thiopica. It is largely grown for winter flowers, and is of the easiest culture, the only attention being an abund- ance of moisture, and an average temperature of seventy degrees, whether grown in the greenhouse or sitting- room. Although it will grow and flower during the entire season without resting if sufficiently fed by being re-potted, yet it is more profitable to dry it partly off, say from June 1st to September 1st. This is best done by placing the pots on their sides outdoors, so as to pre- vent the rains from wetting the soil, and covering them slightly with hay or moss, so as to keep the sun from drying the roots too much ; or, if a position of partial shade can be had, there will be no need of covering the pots. The roots thus rested will flower more abundantly and produce fewer leaves, and thus twice the number of flowers may be obtained from the same space. The bulbs are now being grown largely in California, where they are dried like Tuberoses and purchased by florists in the East- ern States. Thus dried, far more flowers are produced than when the bulb is kept growing. It is not well to give the Calla too much pot room, else 56 GARDENING FOK PLEASURE. too much foliage is produced. We have found the best method to be not to use too large pots, and to use liquid manure freely, made from one bushel of cow dung to twenty-five or thirty gallons of water, or one pound of guano to ten gallons of water. When an excess of leaves occurs, cut them off freely, withholding water somewhat for a week or so after cutting the leaves off. By this method the plants can be grown closely together, and a larger crop of flowers obtained from the same space. The Calla is one of the best of winter-flowering plants for room culture, needing little care beyond abundant water, and an occasional syringing or washing of the leaves to keep them free from dust and red spider. It is also a good plant for a large aquarium. The Dwarf Calla, a sport from the original species, is identical in all respects except that its flowers and leaves are about half the size of the original. R. alba-maculata, a species with beautifully variegated or spotted foliage, makes a showy plant. The flowers are smaller than the Calla, and white, with purple throat. It comes into flower in May and June, making it valuable for a succession. It is also desirable in a collection of plants with variegated foliage. Another species, R. hastata, is somewhat similar to R. alba-maculata, except that the flowers are a deep yellow with a purple throat. There is still another kind of "Calla," sometimes called the "Black Calla," from the very dark crimson of its velvet-like flowers. It is really, however, a plant of another genus, known as Arum Palestinum. It is quite a scarce plant as yet, but will be a great acquisition from its unique and novel color. Unlike most species of the genus Arum, the flowers of this are of a pleasing fragrance. The species are all propagated by offsets, which should be taken off when the plant is at rest, and grown on in small pots for one season. FALL OR HOLLAND BULBS, ETC. 57 GLADIOLUS. i There is perhaps no bulb that is so satisfactory or so easily cultivated as the Gladiolus; no other bulb embraces such a variation of color, comprising nearly every shade except blue. With the simplest culture there is an abso- lute certainty that they will flower, provided they are planted in fairly good soil and where they will not be shaded. Time to Plant. — During the winter, Gladiolus bulbs, whether large or small, should be kept in a dry, cool cellar. As the bulb is nearly hardy, plantings may be made as soon as the ground is fit to work in spring ; and even should the ground be slightly frozen after, they will sustain no injury. Bulbs set out during April will be usually at their best flowering in August, but "succession plantings" may be made every ten days until the middle of July, which will give a succession of bloom the entire season. It is a common practice, with the New York florists, to reserve Gladiolus bulbs until August, which are then planted in boxes four or five inches deep, in rich soil. The boxes are kept out-doors until frost, when they are placed in a cool greenhouse, where they flower in November, at a time when everything is done outside. Whether planted in the open ground or in boxes for forcing, they should be set at from six to seven inches apart, and about two to three inches deep, that is, so that the top of the bulb will be covered an inch or an inch and a half. Gladiolus are admirably suited for cnt-flower work, as they will keep for eight or ten days, and the unexpanded buds, if showing color, will develop fully when the stem is cut and placed in water. In addition to the fine hy- brid varieties long in cultivation, M. Lemoine, of France, in 1884 succeeded in producing a new class, entirely 58 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. novel and of wonderful beauty. Each petal is spotted with crimson, carmine, scarlet, or rose, somewhat resembling the finest kinds of the Fancy Pelargoniums or Orchids. THE AMARYLLIS (Amaryllis). All the kinds are eminently ornamental and easy of culture, the great secret being to give them alternately Fig. 22.— AMARYLLIS. (Vittata Type.) a season of excitement and a season of repose. To do this effectually, the plants should be abundantly sup- plied with water and heat, and placed near the glass when they are coming into flower, and water should be withheld from them by degrees when they are done flow- ering, till they have entirely ceased growing, when they should be kept quite dry and in a state of rest. When in this state they may be placed in any obscure part of a greenhouse or in a cellar where it is dry, and of a tem- perature not under forty degrees. If kept in such a FALL OR HOLLAND BULBS, ETC. 59 situation during winter, some kinds may be turned out into u warm border in spring, where they will flower ; and if the season be fine, they will ripen their bulbs in time to be taken up before tha approach of frost. The chief value of these plants, however, is to produce flowers in the winter season, which they readily do if they are kept dry and dormant during the latter part of the summer and autumn. Indeed, by having a large stock of these bulbs, a regular succession of flowers may be obtained during the year. When the dormant bulbs are wanted to be thrown into flower, they should be fresh potted in sandy loam and leaf mold, and put in a hot- house, hot-bed, or warm sitting-room, at any date from October to January, when the dry bulbs can be had. They should ba kept rather dry, and covered up with leaves until the pot is well filled with roots, just as is done in forcing Hyacinths or Lilies, except, in the case of Amaryllis, the temperature requires to be kept ten degrees higher, the heat beginning at fifty degrees, and ascending to sixty or seventy degrees; and when the leaves or the flowers appear, the plants should be abund- antly supplied with water. Our long and warm summers enable us to cultivate many of these beautiful bulbs in the open air, by merely protecting the roots in winter in some dry, warm cellar, as we do Dahlias or Potatoes. THE CYCLAMEN. Many amateur florists have an ambition to grow this beautiful bulb, and it is often done well even in an ordi- nary sitting-room, though, as it requires a season of rest, it is often injured by this not being given properly or at the right time. Cyclamen bulbs, in the dry state, can be procured usually from seedsmen in September or October. When received they should be potted in five, six, or seven inch pots, according to the size of the bulb. The pots should be well drained and filled loosely with rich, soft GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. soil, such as is composed of one-third leaf mold being best. Press the bulb into the earth so that its top is level with the surface. Give it a good watering, and then place it in some dark closet or cellar for three or four weeks, when it may be brought into the light. The bulbs can often be bought already started from the flor- Fig. 33.— CYCLAMEN. ists, when they may be placed among a general assort- ment of plants that are kept at fifty degrees at night with ten to fifteen higher in the daytime. The Cyclamen flowers usually from January to April. When done flower- ing the plants should be dried off by laying the pots on their sides, as recommended for Callas, say from May to September, and then started again in the way advise^ above. PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY SEEDS. 61 CHAPTER XL PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY SEEDS. NATURE provides abundantly for the reproduction of plants, and the difficulty of multiplying by one method is compensated by the ease with which it may be done by another. Whenever we find a plant that takes root with difficulty from " slips" or cuttings, in nine cases out of ten we find that it seeds freely, and gives us a ready means of increase. Thus we find that the much-admired Centaureas, one kind of the "Dusty Millers" (the white- leaved plants now so much used in massing and for baskets) are exceedingly difficult and slow to root from cuttings, but are readily raised from seeds. Our fine strains of blotched Petunias are also troublesome as cut- tings, but make plants quickly from seeds. The Cycla- men, with its turnip-like stem or bulb, could only be propagated by cutting it in pieces, disfiguring its shape, and requiring years to form a circular bulb again ; but here we have seed coming to our help, which germinate freely, and make flowering plants in one year. The Apple Geranium never affords proper cuttings from which to make a plant, but it seeds freely, from which splendid plants can be produced in a few months. So the Primulas and Cinerarias, both slow and uncertain from cuttings, seed freely. Echeveria metallica, one of the beautiful plants of the Houseleek family, produces no bud from the base of the leaf, as nearly all the other species do; but, to make up, it seeds abundantly, and so with hundreds of other plants to which our space will not permit us to refer. There is no rule by which we can designate what plants are best propagated by seeds, and what by cuttings, experience being the only teacher, and even the experience of a lifetime is too short for 62 GARDENING FOK PLEASURE. those of us that have had the largest practice. The de. scriptive catalogues issued by seedsmen and florists are now excellent practical guides in this matter, as the seeds of all plants best propagated from seeds are offered in the seed department of the catalogues, while those that are usually propagated by cuttings are offered in the plant catalogues. Seedling plants can be nearly a3 well raised in the win- dow of a sitting-room or parlor, provided the tempera- ture is right, as in a greenhouse, for seeds do not need a strong direct light while germinating ; in fact, that is often a difficulty in a greenhouse, as the surface of the seed-bed dries up too quickly in the direct sunshine, ne- cessitating watering, which bakes the surface. The best thing wherein to sow seeds is a shallow box, which need not be more than two inches deep, with open seams at the bottom through which water will drain quickly. Fill the box within half an inch of the top with light rich earth. If it can be procured, nothing is better than black leaf mold from the woods, or light sandy soil mixed with an equal bulk of stable manure, so rotted as to resemble leaf mold ; but it will not answer unless rotted as fine as dust. In the absence of either of these, sweepings from a paved street are excellent, mixed with light sandy soil, the object in all cases being lightness of the soil or mold in which the seed is to be sown ; for if tiny seeds, as many of our flower seeds are, are embedded in a stiff soil, the germ in many of them is too weak to push its way to the light. When the proper soil has been secured, pat it down with a smooth board until it is as smooth and level as it well can be; then sow the seed carefully over the sur- face, distributing it evenly, and with a common kitchen sieve sift just so much earth evenly over the seed as will cover it and no more, pressing it down a^ain with the smooth board ; next take a watering pot with the finest kind of a rose, and shower the earth with the spray. PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY SEEDS. 63 Keep the box at a temperature as near sixty degrees as possible at night, with ten degrees higher in the daytime, taking care to give it a shower of spray only when the surface appears to be dry. But few seeds will fail to germinate under such conditions. This temperature will suffice for the germination of seeds of nearly all annuals and general assortment of greenhouse plants, which may be sown in greenhouse, hot-bed, or sitting-room, from January until March; by that time, as the season gets warmer, seeds of tropical plants, such as Coleus, Egg Plant, etc., may be sown. But after the seeds have '• brairded," as the Scotch gardeners say, comes another difficulty. In quite a number of plants, particulsrly if sown in the house, just as soon as the seed leaf has de- veloped, and before the first rough or true leaves have formed, the seedling is attacked by a minute fungus, that will often sweep off the whole crop in forty-eight hours if not attended to. The required attention is, that as soon as there are indications of the " damping off" of these tiny seedlings, they must be carefully taken up and planted out in similar boxes, prepared exactly as the seed-boxes have been. They may be planted quite closely, not more than half an inch apart, and let their further treatment be exactly the same as in germinating the seeds. In the course of a few weeks they will have grown freely, and they may then be lifted and placed in similar boxes, but wider apart, say three or four inches, or potted singly in two and a half or three-inch pots, as most convenient, until such time as they are to be planted out in the open ground, or used otherwise. In this way as great a number of plants may be raised from a twenty-five or fifty cent packet of seed as would cost $25 or $50 to purchase in plants, besides the far greater satisfaction o* their being the product of your own hands. 64 GABDENING FOE PLEASUEE. CHAPTER XII. PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. THEEE is no more interesting operation to the amateur gardener than that of increasing his stock of plants by cuttings or slips. Heretofore it was accounted a great mystery, and unless with some of the commonest kinds of Geraniums, few amateurs ever presumed to invade the territory of the professional gardener. Nearly all writers on the subject had so befogged this simple matter with technical nonsense, that few, not regularly brought up to the business, presumed to attempt it. We now consider it one of our simplest operations; far simpler than raising many kinds of plants from seed. Though we raise over two millions of plants annually, and keep a professional propagator with three assistants doing nothing else the en- tire year but propagating plants from slips, yet we could take any careful, intelligent man from among our garden laborers, and install him as a competent propagator in a year, and for many of the commoner things in half that time. Where plants are propagated from cuttings in large numbers, we elevate a bench, usually four feet wide, above the flue or hot- water or steam pipes, to within a foot or so of the glass at the front, and on this table or bench we place three or four inches of sand, of any color or tex- ture, provided it is not from the sea-shore (which contains salt). This bench is boarded down in front, so as to con- fine the heat from the flue or pipes under it, and give what is called ''bottom heat." The sand on a bench so wormed will indicate a temperature of perhaps seventy degrees, while the atmosphere of the greenhouse, partic- ularly during the night, will be ten degrees less. Now, if the cuttings are in the right condition, and are inserted an inch or so in the sand, freely watered, and shaded PEOPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 65 from the sun from 9 or 10 A.M. to 3 or 4 P.M., cuttings of nearly all kinds of plants are certain to take root in from ten to twenty days. But the cutting must be in the right condition, and this is best shown by the engrav- ing (figure 24). It will be observed that the upper portion of the shoot is snapped or broken, while the Fig. 24.— PROPER AND IMPROPER STATE OF CUTTING. Other is only kneed or bent. This "snapping point," now term it, is a true indication of proper condition of the cutting. Where it bends and does not break, it is too hard ; and though a cutting will root when in that con- dition, it will be slower in doing so, and the roots thrown out from it will be weaker and more wiry than when emitted from a cutting taken in the condition in which 66 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. it breaks. Besides, the plant grown from the older cut. ting is not likely to be so healthy or vigorous as one made when the shoot is in the proper state. In propagating woody plants, such as Roses, Azaleas, or Camellias, this test of breaking or snapping of the cutting does not in these indicate the proper condition. Although they also will root if taken in the soft state, yet we find it is not quite so well to do so as to wait until the cuttings of these woody plants get harder. What this proper hardness is, it is not very easy always to deter- mine. In Hoses the best condition for taking the cutting is reached when the young shoot (of which the cutting is made) develops the flower bud to about the size of a large pea. Although the shoot on which the flower bud shows will make a proper enough cutting, yet, if it is not desired to waste the flower, cuttings had better be made of the " blind " shoots, i. e., such young shoots as do not flower. In making the cuttings of Eoses, or, in fact, of almost all plants (with a few exceptions hardly worth noting), there is no need to cut at a joint, although nine gardeners out of ten still do so, particularly those who have learned the business in Europe, where, in this as in many other things in horticulture, they still follow the dictum of some savant of a century ago, never question- ing why. But our business necessities here have caused us to ride rough-shod over many of their set rules, and in none more ruthlessly than in this matter of propa- gating. But as this book is written mainly for amateurs in gardening, I will proceed to give a simple method by which any one can propagate plants from cuttings or Blips, even when no greenhouse or hot-bed is at hand. It is called THE "MUD" OR "SAUCER SYSTEM" OF PROPAGATING. Take any common saucer or plate, into which put sand to the depth of an inch or so ; then prepare the cut- " PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. t>7 tings in the usual manner, and insert them in the sand close enough to touch each other, as in figure 25. The sand is then to be watered to bring it to the condition of mud. The saucer with the cuttings is then placed on the shelf of the greenhouse, in the hot-bed, or in a sunny window of any room in the dwelling-house ; in each case fully exposed to the sun and never shaded. But one condition is essential to success : until the cuttings be- come rooted, the sand must be kept continually saturated with water and always in the condition of mud. To do this the saucers must be watered at least once a day with a very fine rose watering pot, and the watering must be done very gently, else the cuttings may be washed out. There is every probability that ninety per cent, of all cut- tings put in will take root, provided they were in the proper condition, and the temperature has not been lower than sixty-five de- grees nor above one hun- dred. By the saucer sys- Fig. 25.-SAUCEK PROPAGATION. ^ ft j^,. temperature may be maintained without injury, as the cuttings are in reality placed in water, and will not wilt, provided the wa- ter is not allowed to dry up. Still the detached slip, until rooted, will not endure a long continuance of one hundred degrees, and we advise that propagation be done at such seasons that the cuttings, wherever they may be placed, will have, as near as possible, an average temperature of seventy-five or eighty degrees in the sunlight. The cut- tings will root (according to kinds and the temperature) in from six to twenty days. Verbenas, Heliotropes, Fuchsias, etc. , root in a week, while Roses, Carnations, or Azaleas, take two, three, or four weeks. When rooted they should be potted in light soil (such as recommended in the article "Propagating of Plants by Seeds"), in pots from 68 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. two to three inches in diameter, and treated carefully by shading and watering for two or three days. The shad- ing is best done by covering the cuttings, after they are potted off, with paper kept damp by sprinkling, say from 9 A.M. to 3 P.M. if the sun is shining on them. To such as desire more extended information on the subject of propagating plants by cuttings, I would refer to my work, "Practical Floriculture." CHAPTER XIII. PROPAGATING BY LAYERING. ALTHOUGH florists now rarely resort to propagation by layering, yet now and then it may be desirable for ama- teurs to increase the number of some favorite plant during the sum- mer season, where no other method of propa- gation can be used. The only difference between a layer and a cutting is, that the cutting is en- tirely detached from the parent plant, while the layer remains partly con- nected with it. Al- though layering may be Fis' 26-~ ^OPAGATING BY done with the ripened wood of vines or shrubs of the growth of the previous season, yet it is preferable to use the shoot of the present year in its half-green state. For example, a rose or flowering shrub is pruned in the usual way in spring ; by midsummer it will have made strong shoots one, two, or three feet in length from or near the ABOUT GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 69 base of the plant. Take the shoot then in the left hand (after having stripped it of its leaves for a few inches on each side of where it is to be cut), keep the fingers under the shoot, and make a cut on the upper part, an inch or so in length, and to about half the thickness of the shoot ; then slightly twist the " tongue" or cut part to one side, as shown in the engraving, figure 26. Having opened a shallow trench, fasten the branch down with a hooked peg, and cover with earth. It is a good plan to place a flat stone over the layer to prevent the soil from drying out. This plan of cutting the shoot in layering is rarely shown in illustrations on the subject, the cuts usually being represented at the under side of the shoot. When cut at the lower side, the shoot can not be laid down without danger of breaking it. CHAPTER XIV. ABOUT GRAFTING AND BUDDING. IT is often desirable to be able to bud or graft one va- riety of plant on another entirely different variety; and it is an interesting fact to know that the bud taken from one plant and inserted so that it grows in another, and is entirely sustained by the plant into which it has been budded, in no way changes its character. This fact is so well known to gardeners that they rarely think it neces- sary to mention it in writing on the subject, and many amateurs interested in horticultural matters have very confused notions on budding. To illustrate : if a leaf bud is taken from a white Rose, and inserted in the stem of a red Rose, all the branches that proceed from this bud, leaves or flowers, will be identical with the white Rose from which it was taken. Or if a leaf bud of the red Rose be inserted in the white, the same result will 70 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. follow ; it will be identical in all respects with the red variety. Or you may take a bud or graft from the sour- est Crab Apple, and insert it into a branch of the sweetest Apple tree you can find, and the shoot which grows from the Crab Apple bud will ever remain a Crab, and will in no way be affected by the sweet Apple stock on which it is growing. Or if the operation is reversed, and the sweet Apple be budded or grafted on the sour, the result will be the same. Its individuality will be in no way changed ; it will be identical with the variety from which it was taken. Still further to illustrate this matter of budding or grafting, you may take a Rose-bush having any number of shoots, it makes no difference whether one or a hun- dred. On each shoot you may bud a distinct variety of Hose, of all the colors, forms, or odors embraced in Roses, and each one will hold its distinct characteristic of color, form, or fragrance, be it crimson, white, pink, or yellow in color, double or single in form, or of tea or other odor. Or you may take a young seedling Apple tree, insert a bud of another into it, then, after that bud has made a growth, bud still another variety into that, and so on as many as is desired ; rub off all shoots in the stem that start below, and the variety last budded will hold its individuality unchanged, no matter though the life-sustaining sap flows through the cells of several dif- ferent kinds. You may mark the space occupied by each of the varieties, and cut back to any particular variety, and the fruit that will be prodr.ced by that part, which will then be the top, will hold its character without change. What is true of looses and Apples is, of course, equally true of whatever plant that can be grafted or budded. The stock does not in any manner affect the individu- ality of the graft, and I supposed that this was one of the generally accepted axioms of horticulture ; but in a con- ABOUT GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 71 versation not long ago with a gentleman whose opinion is entitled to consideration, I found him inclined to believe that there were some few exceptions to what had been admitted to be a general law, and in support of his argu- ment he referred me for exceptions to Darwin's " Plants and Animals under Domestication." I have examined this work, and find but few cases wherein it is claimed that the graft is influenced by the stock, or the stock by the graft. At page 413, vol. i., is cited one of the most important, that of the Cytisus Adami, produced, it is claimed, by grafting the Cytisus purpurea on the Cytisus Laburnum. This so-called " graft hybrid" repeatedly showed its drooping racemes of flowers to be blended yel- low and purple on the same raceme, and again, on the same plant, racemes clear yellow and clear purple unblended were produced. Again at page 457, vol. i., where " Prof. Caspary describes the case of a six-year-old white Moss Rose, which sent up several suckers, one of which was thorny and destitute of moss, exactly like those of the Pro- vence Rose (R. centifolia), while another shoot bore both kinds of flowers, and in addition longitudinally striped flowers. As this white Moss had been grafted on the Provence Rose, Prof. Caspary attributes the above changes to the influence of the stock ; but, from the facts already given, and from others to be given, bud variation with reversion is probably sufficient explanation ; " and Dar- win proceeds to give nearly a dozen cases of like variation where there was no grafting at all. A very marked case of this " bud variation " recently occurred in my own greenhouses. In a bed of about one hundred plants of the Tea Rose "La Nankin," all made from cuttings from one parent plant, we have had four distinct varie- ties. The original flower or bud has its base or lower half of a nankeen yellow color, while its upper half is pure white, the separate colors being clearly defined ; yet among our plants from cuttings we have some flowers 72 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. that are entirely of the nankeen color, without white ; then, again, pure white with no nankeen, and on one shoot the flowers came of a light pink or blush shade. Now had Prof. Caspary a grafted plant of " La Nankin " play- ing these freaks, he no doubt would have concluded that it was the influence of the graft on the stock. There are other instances in grafting where an amalgamation of individualities apparently occurs. These cases are famil- iar to all horticulturists of much experience, and are also alluded to by Darwin in the work above referred to. He gives a number of instances where the variegated Ole- ander grafted on the plain-leaved variety as a stock, imparts the variegation to the stock, or where a yellow- leaved ash tree, grafted on the common green-leaved variety, produced a blotched or variegated variety. That most of the variegation in the foliage of plants is due to disease, or at least some disturbance of the regular functions of the sap, there is but little doubt, and it is therefore but an accidental condition of the individual. Where a variegated plant is budded or grafted upon a healthy subject, the disease is transmitted from the un- healthy bud or graft to the healthy stock in a manner somewhat analogous to inoculation of smallpox virus in man. The character or constitution of the individual is in no way affected in the one case more than in the other. All who have been extensively engaged in the growing of plants, either in the greenhouse or in the open field, know that, when variegated kinds of almost any variety of woody plants are grafted on those having plain leaves, the variegation will be transferred to the plain-leaved stock, but the variegation only; it is changed in no other respect. The most common examples of this are the variegated Abutilon, variegated Altheas, or variegated Ivies, which almost invariably transmit the "diseased" foliage to the healthy stock; but there is never any change made in the coloring of the flower nor in the shape of ABOUT GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 73 the leaves. I consider it most unfortunate for Mr. Dar- win to have advanced the peculiarity of variegated leaves, as bearing on his theory of " graft hybrids." That leaf variegation is indicative of disease is manifest from many facts. It is quite a common thing to find a shoot sent out by the silver-leaved or variegated Geraniums that is pure white in stem and leaves, without a particle of green, or such golden variegated kinds of Geraniums as "Mrs. Pollock" will send out a pure yellow shoot ; but all efforts to make plants of such shoots will fail. They may feebly root as cuttings, or they may be grafted on a green-leaved, healthy stock long enough to drag out a few •weeks of existence, but the disease is here thoroughly established, and all attempts to propagate these entirely abnormal growths completely fail. It has been claimed that the Duchescse d'Angouleme and other pears are much better flavored when grafted on the quince than on the pear stock, and these are quoted as examples of the influence of the stock on the graft; but to me this seems capable of another explanation. We know that the pear stock is a vigorous and ram- pant grower as compared with the quince, and may it not be that this vigor of growth in the tree impairs the flavor of the fruit in some varieties, just as we find the flavor of fruits impaired when grown in too rich soil ? The effect of soil upon quality is particularly marked in melons. I remember that I once grew a field of three acres of Nutmeg melons. One half of the patch was rich bottom land, and the other portion was a rather poor hillside. The fruit pro- duced on the bottom land was much larger, but so different from and inferior in flavor to those on the hillside that no one would have recognized the two as being of the same variety. Grapes grown on a shaly hillside are better fla- vored than on a rich alluvial deposit. The same, though in a less marked degree, probably occurs in other fruits under similar conditions. For these reasons I believe 74 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. it safe to assert that the preponderance of evidence is against the belief that the stock in any manner affects the graft other than that it may cause it to grow stronger or weaker, just as the stock is strong or weak, and the amount of such influence will be only such as a rich or poor soil would produce. In other words, the '• stock " is only a medium or soil wherein the grafted individual grows, and affects it no more than if it drew its suste- nance direct from the earth : strong, if on a strong stock, as on a fertile soil, and weak, if on a weak stock, as on a sterile soil. I believe that the smallest or the greatest of God's creations has a separate and distinct individuality, and that they cannot be blended, except by generation, and that the product of generation, whether in the lowest microscopic germ, or in the highest type, man, has an individuality distinct and separate that it cannot attach to another. CHAPTER XV. HOW GRAFTING AND BUDDING ARE DONE. AFTER this discussion of general principles, let us come to the practice of grafting and budding. In what has been said, the words have been used as synonyms, and their object is precisely the same — to propagate a particular plant upon a rooted plant of another kind. Among fruits we do this because we cannot multiply choice vari- eties by seed or by cuttings. Stocks are raised from seed, which, if allowed to grow and bear, may produce a poor and worthless fruit, or it may be a good kind. To make matters sure, we graft a twig of a kind that we know upon a seedling about which we know nothing. With Camellias, some of the choice kinds, cannot well be propagated HOW GRAFTING AND BUDDING ARE DONE. 75 from cuttings, but many of the commoner kinds will grow in this way, and the choice Camellias are grafted upon stocks obtained by rooting cuttings of the other strong growing kinds ; so in various cases among fruits and flowers, budding or grafting affords the readiest, if not the only method by which we can multiply certain va- rieties. A graft is a twig containing one or more buds, and so inserted or planted in the stock that the new bark and new wood of the two shall be in close con- tact. In budding, a single bud with as little wood as possible, is inserted or planted below the bark of the stock, and in direct contact with its new or sap wood. While we give the two operations different names, the French call budding simply a variety of grafting — shield- grafting. In a general way, it may be stated that in grafting we use buds of a previous year, and insert them upon the stock where they are to grow the spring after they are formed, and as soon as vegetation starts, these buds commence to grow. In budding we use buds of the current season's growth. The recently formed buds, near the end of the growing season, are planted in the stock, where they unite, and remain dormant until spring, when the inserted bud pushes into growth at the time that the natural buds of the stock start. These statements apply only to out-door grafting and budding. When these oper- ations are performed under glass, the propagator has con- trol of atmospheric conditions, and varies them to suit the subjects in hand. In out-door grafting, such as that upon fruit trees, the cions are best if cut in the fall and preserved in sand or sawdust in the cellar during the winter ; though with very hardy sorts this is not essential, they should be cut before any swelling of the buds takes place. The operation succeeds best when the buds on the cion are perfectly dormant, and those on the stock have swollen and about to open. GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. GRAFTING. The various methods of grafting are too many to de- scribe here. The simplest is the cleft graft. The stock is sawed off, and the end cleft or split for a few inches down through the center (figure 27) ; the cion (or two if the stock is over an inch in diameter), with two or three buds, has its lower end smoothly cut to form a wedge a trifle thicker on one side than the other (figure 28) ; the cleft in the stock is pried open bv means of an iron wedge or a wedge-shaped stick, and the cion or cions set with the thicker edge of the wedge outward, ob- serving to bring the inner bark and new wood of stock and cion in as close contact as possible. The opening wedge being withdrawn, the spring of the stock will hold the cions in place (figure 29). The junction is to be covered with graft- ing wax, or waxed cloth, taking care to completely cover every wounded portion of both stock and cion. It is by this method that most of the grafting is done by farmers all over the country. It is rude, but very successful. The objection to it is, that it leaves too great a wound to be closed over. For small stocks the whip-graft is generally used. It is much easier to do it than to describe it. Stock and cion should be as nearly of a size as possible. Both are cut with a similar slope, and in each slope is cut a tongue, as in figure 30. When the two slopes are put together, the two tongues are interlocked as in the engraving, taking care that the inner bark of stock and cion come in con' Fig. 27. Fig. 28. Fig. 29. CLEFT GRAFTING. HOW GRAFTING AND BUDDING ABE DONE. 77 tact as completely as possible. In this illustration the parts are represented as tied with twine, to show the joint below, but in practice the whole is completely cov- ered with a band of waxed cloth. This, where practica- ble, is an excellent graft, there being no large wounds to heal over, and the points of union are numerous. This graft is much used by nurserymen in root grafting small apple and pear stocks. A very simple form called the side-graft is often employed by florists and nurserymen. Fig. 30.— WHIP GRAFT. Fig. 31. — SIDE GKAFT. The cion is cut to a long wedge, and the stock has a downward cue made in its stem, into which the cion is inserted, as in figure 31. In grafting the Camellia, the Koso, and other hard-wooded plants, a combina- tion of the whip and side graft is made use of, as shown in figure 32. Grafting wax used to cover the wounds made in graft- ing may be purchased at the seed and implement stores, 78 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. or the amateur can make it himself. It should be soft enough to be molded by the heat of the hand on a cool day, but not so soft as to run when exposed to the heat of the sun. It is essentially rosin and beeswax, with tal- low or linseed oil enough to make it sufficiently soft. A good formula is rosin 2 Ibs., beeswax !3/4 lb., tallow 3/4 Ib. The better way for the amateur to use this is to melt the whole together thoroughly, and then dip in it strips of well-worn cloth, such as may be torn from a worn-out sheet or calico dress. These waxed strips will tear read- Fig. 32.— GRAFTING THE CAMELLIA. ily, and may be neatly fitted to the graft to make a com- plete covering. The fingers should be slightly greased when applying the waxed cloth. We find in our prac- tice of grafting Roses, for which we use mainly the Ma- netta Rose stock, to do the work from January to March, a slight bottom heat is indispensable for the best success; that is, from sixty-five to seventy-five degrees bottom heat, with ten degrees less "top" "heat, must, as near as HOW GRAFTING AND BUDDING ARE DONE. 79 possible, be kept in the greenhouse or hot-bed where the grafting is being done. BUDDING. The shoot or stock to be budded upon must be in a thrifty growing state, so that the bark can be raised freely from the wood, and the bud to be inserted must be in such a state that it shows prominently at the axil of the leaf. Select a smooth portion of the stem of the stock, strip it of leaves sufficiently to allow room for the . 35. Fig. 36. Bl D IN. BUD TIED. THE METHOD OF BUDDING. operation, and then make a cut through the bark to the wood of an inch or so, with a cross cut at the top, as shown in figure 34. Although the illustration does not show it, a slight cut of the bark should be made above the cross-cut. This is done to allow the bud to slip in better. This cus- tom, we think, is not general, but we find the operation is done quicker and better by its use. Next take the shoot from which the bud is to be cut, and selecting a properly developed bud, cut it from the shoot as shown in figure 33. The edges of the cut in the stock are lifted by the point of the knife or an ivory attachment to the budding-knife, the bud inserted and pushed down as in 80 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. figure 35. The portion of bark attached to the bud that projects above the horizontal cut in the stock is cut off, and the tie applied. The tying material should be Kaffia bark, though cotton wick or other soft material will do. The engraving, figure 36, shows where to place the tie ; but when of Kaffia bark it quite covers the wound and excludes water and prevents drying. In two or three weeks after the bud has been inserted, it will be safe to remove the tying, and if the operation has been performed on a Rose in June, it will often make a considerable growth the same season ; but if done in August or September, it usually lies dormant until the next spring. All shoots upon the stock below the bud must be rubbed off, both in budding and grafting, and when the bud that has been inserted starts to grow, the stem above it must also be cut back just above, so that the inserted bud, which now becomes the plant, may get the full benefit of the root. CHAPTER XVI. TREATMENT OF TROPICAL BULBS, SEEDS, ETC. ANY information that can be gi,ven in an article short enough to be suitable for amateurs on a subject so ex- tended as this must be confined to a few well-known and leading plants most valued for general cultivation. The Tuberose is one of the tropical cla.E>TIXG FOR PLEASURE. position, for these plants will not do their best unless the water is thoroughly warmed. On the north side may be a border filled with Musas, Cannas, Bamboos, Ornamental Grasses, Caladiums, etc., which form a fine background for the Water Lilies, and give the whole a tropical ap- pearance. In such a tank as above described, the tenderest species named may, in this latitude, be planted out by the 10th of June, and remain until the frosts of autumn appear. If it is desired to enjoy the longest possible season of bloom in the open air, then the Lily pond may be located near a greenhouse, and some connection made with the hot-water boiler. My manner of doing this is to extend the hot-water pipe (both flow and return) from the boiler to the tank, and reaching a few inches inside of the wall. The ends of these pipes are left open, and when extra heat is wanted a fire is kept in the boiler. The circulation being constant between tank and boiler, the water in the tank may thus be warmed early in the spring, the tender Lilies planted out earlier, and thus earlier bloom be the result. Fire heat can be discon- tinued as soon as the summer sun begins to do its work. The season of bloom can be prolonged in the autumn in the same manner. As soon as frosty weather arrives the tender species should be taken under glass, and kept in water at fifty-five to sixty degrees, according to the variety. For the protection of the tank in winter, place planks or boards around the edge in such a manner as to cover a space two or three feet in width, that is, over the water, and cover them with a thick layer of leaves or litter. This will help to keep the ice from forming at the edge, tmd, consequently, from expanding too much and cracking the walls. Another plan is to drain the water entirely from the pond, and cover with twelve or fifteen inches of leaves. Any one having a large factory could place a CULTURE OF WATER LILIES, ETC'. 121 Lily pond near it, so that the waste steam or hot water (if free from chemicals or filth) might be utilized for keeping, the water warm, and from freezing in winter. It may be asked, "Why all this trouble and expense ? Why not grow the Lilies in ponds with a bottom of nat- ural earth ?" We answer, that for the hardy kinds this is undoubtedly a good plan, and very fair success may be had in the same way with the tender kinds; bnt in a pond with a cement bottom the water is more readily heated by the sun, and retains its heat better. THE WATER LILY GARDEN COMPLETE. I will add here a few words upon the " possibilities " of aquatic gardening. One argument in favor of culti- vating tropical Lilies in the open air is, that larger leaves and flowers are obtained, and in case of the colored kinds, greater depth of color than under glass. Another argument is, the grand effect which may be produced on the lawn or in any part of the pleasure ground. Let us suppose that you wish to have an aquatic garden, fifty, sixty, or a hundred feet in diameter. We will not build it in the stiff form of a circle or oval, but the outline shall be irregular, with here and there a small bay, across which we will throw a rustic bridge to a miniature peninsula. Somewhere on the margin we will build a rustic summer-house. It shall be a two-story affair, for sometimes we shall want to view our pets from an ele- vated position ; for, unlike our fellow-creatures, they smile upon us when we look down upon them. If we have a rocky ledge in our grounds, let us place our pond near it. Now, let us suppose that all has been planted, established, and come to midsummer perfection. Some morning, before the night-blooming Lilies have begun to take their midday sleep, let us ascend the low tower and take a view of the picture. There, beneath us, is the noble Nymphcea deniata, covering a space twenty feet 122 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. in diameter, some of its Ieave3 two feet across, and its milk-white flowers twelve inches across ; there is the grand N. rubra, with its immense cups of glowing car- mine; and there, queen of them all, is N. Devoniensis, sur- passing in brilliancy of flower, if not in size of leaf, the famous Victoria regia. Then come groups of these same Lilies, planted more thickly; and though the flowers are smaller, yet they are more numerous and just as brilliant. Yonder, a little bay is filled with Egyptian Lotus, its pink and white flowers, on stalks three feet above the water, looking like immense tulips. Next is a mass of the American Lotus, with its sulphur-yellow flowers ; some of its floating leaves have strayed out into an open space, and are thirty inches in diameter. Let us descend and walk along the border of our little lake. Here is a plantation of the lovely blue N. scutifolia; you per- ceive its fragrance before yon come near it. Next is the beautiful Yellow Lily from Florida; and our own sweet Water Lily is not forgotten, for it is here in masses. As- sociated with it are its charming new, rose-colored vari- ety, N. odorata rosea, and the delicate pink-tinted one. Here are N. candidissima and N. alia rosea, with their waxy petals, similar in color to some of the others, but having their own distinctive merits and attractions. The favorite Calla of oar winter gardens lifts its white trum- pets towards the sky, and numerous smaller flowered aquatics are found in profusion along the edge of the water. Coming around to the Lotuses again, we find growing near them, in shallow water, great clumps of the Egyptian Papyrus, with its plumy heads on stalks six feet high. Now let us look at some of the plants which as- sociate well with water, and help form a background for our picture. Scattered along the margin we find groups of ornamental grasses, Eulalias, Erianthus, and Pampas Grass. Yonder, on our little peninsula, stands a noble Banana (Musa Ensete), twelve feet high. Farther on is CULTURE OF WATER LILIES, ETC. 123 a clump of the tall Bamboo (Arundo Donax), and its variegated variety. There are groups of Cannas, and a large Palm, brought from the greenhouse to spend the summer in the open air. Another stately plant is Aloca- sia arborea, with a tree-like trunk and fine, large leaves. What is this great-leaved plant near the water's edge ? It is Gunnera scabra (the Giant Khubarb), with leaves six feet in diameter. Now do you wish to give your friends a glimpse of fairyland ? Then illuminate your grounds, and invite them to an evening fete or garden party. The Lotuses and hardy Lilies have closed their flowers, but the night-blooming Water Lilies offer us a feast for the eyes at night. Place large lamps, with re- flectors, in such a position as to throw a powerful light directly upon the flowers ; or, perhaps, Edison's magic lamps are available, and you suspend a number of them in midair over the water. Now the red Lilies fairly glow with color, and are far more beautiful than by day- light. The water is like a mirror, and in its depths you behold another glorious picture — a perfect image of the flowers themselves. The large, star-like white ones keep company with the red in their night watches, and are not unworthy companions for them. Look around at the floating leaves, the numerous buds which will open with to-morrow's- sun, the tall shields of the Lotus, the rich, tropical foliage on the banks, the rustic arbor cov- ered with myriads of the silvery blossoms of the Moon Flower (Ipomcea grandiflora), and tell me if this is not a fairy scene. And having taken a view of the Water Lily Garden by daylight and by lamplight, will you not ac- knowledge that in all that is really beautiful it far sur- passes the most elaborate exhibition of carpet bedding ? Perhaps you will say that this is a fancy sketch. Our answer is, that it has been so far realized that AVC do not hesitate to place such a garden as we have described among the list of "possibilities of horticulture" in America. 124 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. [My readers will be pleased to learn that the superin- tendent of the government grounds and buildings at Washington proposes to add a collection of aquatics to Fig. 41. — VIEW OF AQUATIC PLANTS IN CENTRAL PAEK. the already interesting collection of plants to be seeii there. This will, beyond doubt, give an impetus to their cultivation, just as has been done in the Central Park, CULTURE OF WATER LILIES, ETC. 125 New York, where the Water Lilies and other aquatics growing in the ponds there have been such a source of interest and pleasure to the tens of thousands of visi- tors.-P. H.] SOIL FOR GROWING AQUATIC PLANTS. The best soil for growing all kinds of aquatic plants in gardens, we have found to be good, rich loam, and the best decayed stable or cow manure, in equal quantities. Leaf mold or fine black peat can no doubt also be used to advantage. Eich mud from the bed of a pond or sluggish stream will answer in place of the loam, but I do not consider it essential. The compost should be well mixed, placed in the tank, and covered with about an inch of good, clean sand, to keep the manure from rising ; then let in the water several days before putting in the plants. WATER LILIES IN TUBS AND CEMENT BASINS. A good degree of success may be attained by planting them in large tubs or half-barrels in the open air, either on the surface or sunk in the ground. They should be placed where they will receive the full benefit of the sun for at least the greater portion of the day. If for the whole day, so much the better. Fill them about half full of the compost recommended for all aquatics. The large growing kinds would do better in half-hogsheads or in tierces sawed in two. A very effective and inexpensive plan is to arrange the tubs in connection with a rockery, a large tub in the center being placed somewhat higher than the rest, and connected by pieces of rubber hose, so that the overflow from the large tub runs .from one to the other, changing the water in all. Oil barrels cut in two make excellent tubs. The space around the tubs is filled with good rich com- 126 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. post, held in place by large stones, in which foliage and flowering plants, such as Tuberous rooted Begonias, Sedums, Caladiums, Palms, etc., are planted. The effect produced in this manner is really beautiful. See fig. 42. The next best arrangement for growing aquatics is to build of bricks and hydraulic cement a basin two feet deep and six feet in diameter, either round or square. This can be sunk in the lawn in a sunny position, or on the south side of a building or fence. If convenient, provide means for emptying the tank from the bottom, and a waste-pipe near the top for overflow, BO that fresh . 42. — VIEW OF WATER LILT BED. water can be run in occasionally to prevent stagnation. Such a tank would need to be well protected from severe frost in winter. Aquatics may also be grown in the basin of a fountain, but they will not flourish if the spray is allowed to fall upon the leaves. Water enough to keep that in the basin fresh may be allowed to run in, but no more, as that would lower the temperature too much. ENEMIES OF AQUATIC PLANTS. The conditions which we recommend for successfully growing tropical aquatics (i. e.. still, warm water and rich compost), favor the growth of a low form of vege- CULTURE OF WATER LILIES, ETC. 127 table life called confervae, or green scum, which becomes very unsightly and troublesome unless eradicated. As the result of several years' experience, we are quite posi- tive that, if abundance of Gold-fish are kept in the tank or pond, there will be no trouble in this direction. Other kinds of fish which are vegetarian in habit might, per- haps, answer as well, but the German Carp is not to be recommended for tanks kept solely for the choicer varie- ties of acquatics, on account of their propensity for root- ing in the mud and feeding upon the fibrous roots which proceed from the rhizomes of the Lilies. Should it be determined to keep a few German Carp in the Lily Gar- den, it will be necessary to place whole pieces of roofing- slate or large pebbles on the soil around the crowns of the tender Nymphaeas. Innumerable kinds of aquatic insects breed in the water, and some of their larvae prey upon the leaves of the Lilies, but the common water-snail is the greatest enemy of aquatic plants. The Gold-fish assist very materially in destroying these larvae and snails, but we have found a complete preventive of injury to the foli- age from this source by keeping in the tank, in addition to the Gold-fish, some of the common spotted Sun- fish. They are carnivorous in habit and very alert and active. Moreover, it is impossible for mosquitoes to breed in a Water Lily basin in which abundance of the above-named fish, or those of similar habit, are kept. Thus one objection to locating these tanks or ponds in the vicinity of the dwelling-house is removed. Their beautiful appearance, and the ease with which they may be taught to feed from the hand (though it must not be done too frequently), make them charming adjuncts to the Water Garden. If the tank is two feet or more in depth, they can be left in it all winter with perfect safety in this latitude. Sometimes, toward autumn, brown aphides, or plant CULTURE OF WATER LILIES, ETC. 129 lice, become troublesome on the Lily leaves. A some* what new insecticide, which any one can prepare, has proved effectual with us. It is called the kerosene emul- gion, or kerosene butter, and is prepared as follows : Take two parts of kerosene and one part of thick, sour milk ; warm the latter (to blood heat only) ; put the two liquids together, and agitate violently with a greenhouse syringe or a force-pump. They will soon completely unite and form a white, soapy mass. This kerosene butter mixes readily with tepid water. One part of the butter should be thoroughly mixed with fifteen parts of water, and ap- plied to the infested leaves with a syringe. With us, one application entirely destroyed the insects, without any in- jury whatever to Nymphseas. A weaker solution of the emulsion must be used on plants which are found to be injured by the proportion above given. Experience will be a guide in this matter. Very few applications of the remedy will be needed during the season. Nelumbium leaves are injured by the application of kerosene. To- bacco water applied with a syringe, or tobacco dust shaken on the leaves, is the best means for destroying aphides, or plant lice, on these. DESCRIPTION OF VARIETIES. The Victoria Regia. — This giant Water Lily of the River Amazon is the grandest of all aquatics. See fig. 43, That it may be successfully grown and flowered in the open air in this latitude, we have proved beyond a doubt, having done so for several seasons past. By this plan it is treated as a tender annual. In winter or early spring seeds are placed in water, kept uniformly at a tempera- ture of from eighty to ninety degrees. After germinat- ing they are potted and shifted on, as they require it. Early in June a plant is placed in a bed of very rich soil in a tank, fully exposed to the sun, and which can be 130 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. artificially heated until hot weather sets in. It produces leaves six feet across, one plant covering a space thirty feet in diameter. The flowers are from twelve to sixteen inches across. The first night that they open they are a lovely white, and emit a delicious perfume, resembling that of pineapples, which is often perceptible some rods distant. The second night the flowers have changed to pink, and have lost their perfume. In the Southern States it may be grown with complete success in open ponds. The seeds cost fifty cents each, and plants about ten dollars each. New Crimson-flowered Victoria Regia. — Since the dis- covery of the original species, many years ago, no new variety has appeared until now. We had the honor of successfully growing and flowering this novelty last sea- son (1886), it being its first appearance in this country. It differs from the original Victoria in the following par- ticulars : The whole plant is of more robust habit, and the young leaves of a darker bronzy color. In the old variety the vertical rim of the leaf is seldom more than three inches high. In the new one this vertical rim on well-grown plants is five inches, and sometimes six inches high, giving the plant a most striking and novel appear- ance. Leaves are produced six to seven feet in diam- eter. In the old variety the flowers are white on first opening, changing on the second day to rosy pink. In the new variety the flowers are also white the first day, but on the second day they turn to a deep crim- son color. The seeds of this wonderful plant cost one dollar each. Euryale Ferox. — This is the East Indian relative of the Royal Water Lily, but not so gigantic in size. Its flowers are of a deep reddish or violet color. The leaves, in which the plant's chief beauty resides, are purple in color, curiously wrinkled, and covered with long spines on both sides. It is an annual. CULTUKE OF WATER LILIES, ETC. 131 NIGHT-BLOOMING WATEB LILIES. Unlike our wild N. odorata, the following seven kinds open their flowers at night, beginning about eight o'clock and (excepting N. ampla) remaining expanded until about ten the next morning, each flower opening three nights in succession. They stand on strong foot-stalks ten or twelve inches above the surface of the water. If given the right conditions as to soil, temperature, etc., they will begin to bloom in about forty days after being put out, and continue to be constantly in bloom until cold weather. They all require the same culture and treatment. Their tubers are about the size of a hickory nut or walnut, but make a most astonishing growth in a single season. In spring they should be placed in small pots with good loam or ordinary greenhouse potting soil, and immersed in water kept at eighty degrees to start them into growth. If you are satisfied to have flowers from four to six inches in diameter, then, when warm weather arrives, shift them into large earthen pans or tubs, and place them out of doors, or keep them in a greenhouse, according to the latitude in which you live. If the finest specimens are desired, then, as early in sum- mer as the water becomes warm enough for bathing with comfort, plant them out in a Water Lily tank, in large beds or wooden boxes filled with the compost recommend- ed for aquatics. In the autumn, around the old plant may be found hard, nut-like tubers. These are the best for wintering. The plants ripen and shed their leaves, when they may be placed, several together, in a pot of soil or clean sand, and the pots immersed in water kept at a temperature of about sixty degrees the entire winter. Lower than this may do, but we have found this the safest. Large flowering crowns are valueless for win- tering over, being sure to decay. If you wish to grow them in a pond with a bottom of natural earth, they 132 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. must first be planted in large boxes or half-barrels filled with the prepared compost, and sunk where the water is two or three feet deep. In the Southern States this will not be necessary, but do not put a dormant tuber at once into deep water. Let it first get a good growth in a pot placed in shallow water. The day-blooming tender Nymphseas are managed in much the same way as the night-blooming ones, except that they do not increase by suckers, and the old plants may be kept over from year to year. Dormant tubers are easily sent by mail from March to December. Nymphcea Devoniensis. — This is one of the choicest, if not the very choicest, Water Lily in cultivation. Under Fig. 44.— NYMPH^BA DEVONIENSIS. the liberal treatment which we recommend for producing the finest specimens, in one season a single plant will cover a circle twenty feet across, with leaves twenty-five inches in diameter, and flowers twelve inches from tip to tip of petals. If confined in pans, tubs, or boxes, the flowers are smaller, but otherwise just as fine. The leaves are rish green, with serrated edges and occasional brown blotches. No person can form an adequate idea CULTURE OF WATER LILIES, ETC. 133 of the beauty of a red Water Lily until he has seen one of these gorgeous blossoms. They are rosy red (with scarlet stamens), glowing by lamplight with indescriba- ble color. They are yet rare, and cost from two to three dollars per tuber. Nymphaa Sturtevanti (new Semi-Double Red Water Lily). — This variety has foliage of a beautiful bronzy color, sometimes almost crimson. Its flowers are very large, having a greater number of petals than Nymplicea Devoniensis, and a more graceful cup-shaped form than that variety. They are of a beautiful, rosy red color. This is a very choice variety, but not so free flowering as the others. Nymphaa Rubra. — This magnificent species is a na- tive of India, and one of the parents of N. Devoniensis. The picture of the latter gives a good idea of N. rnbra, except that the flowers are a little more cup-shaped, and their petals somewhat broader. Their color is also a brilliant red, sometimes of a deeper shade than N. De- voniensis, and both foliage and flowers attain nearly the same size as that variety if given the same treatment. The foliage is quite distinct, being of a rich brown color, turning, when old, to gold and crimson, like autumn leaves. Nymphcea Dcntata. — This species is a native of Sierra Leone, and has white flowers with petals expanding horizontally, making them star-shaped. They have an agreeable odor, but not as sweet as our native Lily. The leaves are rich green, with serrated edges. With ordi- nary culture, flowers will be produced six or seven inches across ; but give them plenty of room and rich soil, and both foliage and flowers will be as large as those of N. Devoniensis. Nymphcea Lotus. — This is supposed to be the typical species of the class of Water Lilies such as N. dentata, 134 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. N. Devoniensis, etc. It has large and beautiful pure white flowers with broad petals, and is far superior to Nymphcsa dentata. Nymphcea Ampla. — A tropical species, with sulphur- white flowers, about six inches across, and strongly scented like the odor of bananas. They open only at night. DAY-BLOOMING WATER LILIES, AND OTHER TENDER AQUATICS. Nymphcea Scutifolia (coerulea orcyanaea). — The Lilies cultivated under these names are of a beautiful shade of lavender blue (not a deep blue), about three or four inches across ; but when the plant is given abundance of room and rich soil, the flowers will be much larger and' of a decidedly deeper tint. They are very fra- grant, the perfume being entirely distinct from that of Nymphcea odorata. It may be successfully grown in a natural pond, where the water is still and the mud rich. Probably hardy in the South. Winter temperature, fifty to sixty degrees. Nymphcea Zanzilarensis (the Royal Purple Water Lily). — This new species, from Africa, was first flowered in this country in the summer of 1882 ; and in Sep- tember, 1883, the Massachusetts Horticultural Society awarded it their Silver Medal. It is, unquestionably, the deepest colored and finest of all blue Water Lilies known, and some European horticulturists declare it to be the finest of the whole family. It is of a shade of blue so deep that it is not unreasonably called purple. Some parts of the flower are of the color of Lasiandra macrantha (a greenhouse plant). It has the same fragrance as N. coerulea, and. even when grown in small tubs or pans, produces larger flowers than that variety. Under the treatment given it in the Water Lily garden, they attain CULTURE OF WATER LILTES, ETC. 135 a diameter of twelve inches, and the leaves a diameter of two feet. It blooms constantly until frosty weather, and requires the same culture and treatment as other blue Lilies. NymphcBa Zanzibar ensis Azurea. — Strong flowering bulbs of this variety, raised from seed of the true N. Zan- zibarensis, are like the species in every respect, except that the color of the flowers is a shade lighter, being of the richest deep azure blue, far surpassing N. cwrulea or any other blue Lily except the true N. Zanzibar ensis. Nymphcea Zanzibarensis Rosea. — This is like N. Zan- zibarensis in every respect, except that the flowers are of a deep rosy pink color. Limnocharis Humboldlii (the Water Poppy). — A charming and easily cultivated plant, with oval floating leaves and flowers of a bright lemon color with black stamens. The flowers stand a few inches out of water, and are produced freely during the entire season. Easily grown in a tub, but better still in the Water Lily garden, planted in a box or a tub, which must be elevated so that the plants may grow in shallow water. Wintered in the greenhouse. Limnocharis Plumieri. — An erect-growing plant, standing one to two feet out of the water, with ellip- tical leaves four to six inches long, and of a rich velvety green. .Flowers straw color. Sagittaria Montevidiensis. — This new plant has re- cently been introduced into this country. It is a giant compared with our native Arrowheads, which it resembles in the form of its foliage and flowers. It grows to a hight of four feet, with leaves fifteen inches long. The flowers are produced abundantly on spikes three feet high, each bloom being two inches across, pure white, with a purple spot at the base of each petal. It should be win- tered in the warmest greenhouse. 136 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Pontederia Crassipes Major. — The typical P. cras- sipes seldom produces flowers under cultivation; but this variety blooms very freely when grown in water about three inches deep, allowing the lower ends of the roots to enter the soil. The blossoms are of a beautiful lilac rose color, each two inches across, and produced in large upright spikes or trusses like a Hyacinth. Ouvirandra Fenestralis (the Lattice-Leaf Plant). — Though by no means a new plant, it is extremely rare in this country. The following description is from "Stove and Greenhouse Plants," by B. S. Williams : "It is pop- ularly known as the Lace-Leaf or Lattice-Leaf, and is one of the most singular plants in existence. The leaves are from six to eighteen inches in length, and from two to four inches in breadth ; oblong, with an obtuse apex, and spreading out horizontally beneath the surface of the water. They are of a dark olive green color, and consist of a strong midrib and veins that would be called the primary nerves of an ordinary leaf, and thus present the appearance of a beautiful piece of net-work, or of a skel- etonized leaf ; indeed, it is a veritable living skeleton. The flowers are inconspicuous." Native of Madagascar. It should be grown in a pan filled with a mixture of good loam and leaf mold or fine peat. The pan should be placed in a tub of water, and great care taken to keep the water sweet and the leaves of the plant clean. It is generally kept in the greenhouse in summer, but in this latitude we have found it to do well in the open air. It may be wintered in an ordinary greenhouse temperature. It is a scarce plant, and will always cost from three to five dollars each. Myriophyllum Proserpinacoides. — This is grown on account of the exquisite beauty of its foliage. It prefers shallow water, sending its stems creeping along on the surface, forming a mass of lovely soft green color. The leaves are arranged in whorls along the stem, and are as OULTtrfiE OF WATER LILIES, ETC. 137 finely divided as the most delicate fern. The ends of these creeping stems stand erect, forming beautiful tufts or tassels. The plant may be hardy, but is better kept in a pan or tub placed in a cool greenhouse, where it forms a very pretty object in winter. It might also be grown in a water-tight hanging basket. Ceratopleris Thalictroides (the Water Fern). — This is an extremely curious and interesting Fern, growing with its roots entirely submerged in water, either in a pot or planted out in a shallow place in the Water Lily basin. The fronds are from one to three feet high, and beauti- fully forked. The finest ones are produced on plants kept in a little shade. It is sometimes called the "Float- ing Stag's Horn Fern. " It must be wintered in a warm greenhouse. Hedychium Acuminatum (the Garland Flower). — Hedychiums belong to the family of the Ginger plant. This species grows from four to six feet high, each flower spike producing, for several weeks in succession, lovely snow-white blossoms, over two inches across, resembling an Orchid in form, and deliciously scented. It may be grown as a semi-aquatic by planting it in a tub, and placing it where the soil will be kept wet, but the crowns must not be immersed. If kept warm enough it will flower the whole year round. Canna Ehcmani. — This is the most magnificent Canna ever introduced. It grows to a hight of five or six feet, with large, green, banana-like foliage, and the flowers are marvelous in size, being as large as a Gladiolus bloom. They are of a rich, crimson scarlet color, and hang pendant in clusters from the top of the plant. Each stalk produces a succession of these clusters, one after another, for a long time. This Canna may be treated as a semi-aquatic by planting it in a large tub, although it is usually grown as the ordinary garden Canna. 1.38 GARDENING FOK PLEASURE. Rirhardia ^ffithiopica ("The Calla," or "Lily of the Nile"). — This old and favorite plant can be made a charming feature among the Water Lilies. The only way we know for making it bloom in summer is to keep the bulbs entirely dry and dormant during autumn and winter. They can then be potted and grown as an aquatic during summer. Papyrus Antiquorum. — This is the true Egyptian Paper Plant. From the snow-white pith of its triangu- lar stalks the first paper was made. It grows five or six feet high, and supports at the top a tuft of long, thread- like leaves, which give the plant a graceful and striking appearance. It grows finely in shallow water, with rich soil or mud, and makes a splendid companion for flower- ing aquatics. It will also flourish and make a fine clump in the garden in ordinary soil. Cyperus AUernifolius. — This also will grow with its roots submerged in water, its reedy stems, with tufted heads, resembling miniature Palm trees. Cyperus Strictus. — This is like C. alternifolius, but stiffer in outline. It grows to the hight of six or seven feet, in rich soil and shallow water, and should be win- tered in the greenhouse. FLOATING PLANTS. Piistia Straliotes. — A very curious plant, which floats upon the water, with its long, fibrous roots extending downwards, but having no connection with the soil. It forms a rosette of light green, velvety leaves, about six inches across ; likes plenty of heat, and must be shaded from the direct rays of the sun. It does finely in a tub of water, placed in a vinery or greenhouse, in summer, or in the open air, under a tree. It is sometimes called the Water Lettuce. CULTURE OF WATER LILIES, ETC. 139 Pontederia Crassipes. — This is an extremely interest- ing plant, which floats upon the surface of the water like Water Lettuce. Each crown produces neat rosettes of leaves, the stems of which are enlarged in the middle into curious oval bulbs filled with air cells, which enable the whole plant to swim. It should be wintered in a warm greenhouse. Salvinia Braziliensis. — A very pretty floating plant something like our native "Duck-meat," but very much larger. Its leaves have a delicate hairy surface. Tender. Triancea Bogotensis. — A floating plant, with thick, spongy leaves, from one-half to one inch in diameter. Very curious, but tender. Azolla Caroliniana (Floating Moss). — A floating plant which produces no flowers, but is exceedingly interesting on account of the delicacy and beauty of its foliage, which resembles a lovely green moss or Selaginella, A small plant placed in a pan of water soon covers the whole surface, and presents an appearance something like a pan of "Selaginella densa." If grown out of doors, in full sunshine, the plant assumes a reddish color. It is entirely hardy. DITCHER PLANTS. As these are water-loving plants, we have thought best to introduce them here. Sarracenia purpurea is per- fectly hardy. S. flava and S. variolaris have stood the winter in the latitude of New Jersey, naturalized in a peat bog. The most of this class, however, are best grown in pots of fine peaty soil, surfaced with live sphag- num, and kept standing in a pan of water in the green- house. Sarracenia Drummondii Alba. — The pitchers of this are two feet high, slender at the base and widening at 140 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. the top like an ordinary tin horn. They are of a fine green, except that towards the top they become pure white, netted with crimson veins. The flowers are crim- son. This is the most beautiful of the family. Sarracenia Flava (Trumpets). — This is the largest of all, producing, in its native swamp, handsome green, trumpet-like pitchers, often three feet high. Flowers large, yellow. Sarracenia Purpurea. — This hardy northern species is not unworthy of a place in any collection. By giving it peaty soil and moss, it may be naturalized on the margin of a pond or stream. Flowers purple. Sarracenia Variolaris. — Pitchers from twelve to eigh- teen inches high, very curiously hooded at the top, these hoods being spotted with white. Flowers yellow. Sarracenia Ruhr a. — A small growing species, with slender, trumpet-shaped leaves of a reddish color. Very neat when grown several together in a pot. Flowers crimson purple. Darlingtonia Californica (the California Pitcher Plant). — This has the most curiously-formed pitchers of any of the tribe. They grow to the hight of from fifteen inches to two and a half feet, and have some resemblance to those of the Sarracenias, but differ from them in hav- ing the upper part arch over, like aa inflated hood, and having a large triangular appendage hanging loosely from it. They are beautifully mottled with white and veined with red. Flowers straw-color and pale purple. Dioncea Mu&cipula (Venus's Fly-trap). — A most won- derful little plant, called "Venus's Fly-trap." It has strange, trap-like arrangements at the ends of the leaves, which, owing to the hair- like, sensitive organs on the inner surface, will close instantly when touched by an insect or any light substance. It is grown like the Pitcher Plants. CULTURE OF WATER LILIES, ETC. 141 Drosera Filiformis and D. Rotundifolia. — Rare, curi- ous, and hardy little bog plants, with pretty lilac and white flowers. [Some of the Pitcher Plants, together with the Drosera and Dioncea, are the plants claimed by Darwin as " insect- eating plants," and on which he wrote a large volume to prove that these plants caught and absorbed insects as food. His belief has been severely questioned, and at present writing the discussion is far from being settled. My own experiments, which have been very elaborate, have all gone to prove that Mr. Darwin's theory is an error.— P. H.] HARDY AQUATICS. The roots of the native American Water Lily will not endure actual freezing, but still it is commonly called hardy. When we speak of an aquatic as being hardy, we do cot mean that it is so in the same sense that Pseonias are, but that it will endure the winter when placed in the water below the reach of frost. THE BEST TIME TO PLANT. — The hardy Nymphaeas and Nelumbiums should invariably be planted during spring and early summer. It may be done up to the first of August, but never in the fall, if it can be avoided. Nymphcea Odorata. — The praises of our fragrant na- tive Water Lily can never be too highly sung. Its lovely white flowers are worthy of a place beside the most costly exotics. It can be successfully grown in a tub, and wintered in a cellar. It does well in one of the beds in the Lily tank, but a more satisfactory way than either is to naturalize it in a pond or slow-running stream. Do not tie a stone to it and sink it, as many recommend, but push it carefully into the mud with the hands or feet. Where the mud is very rich, it will produce flow- ers six inches and leaves thirteen inches across. 142 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Nymphcea Odorata Minor. — A variety of our native Water Lily, possessing the same qualities of hardiness and fragrance, but producing flowers only one and a half or two inches across. Color, white, tinted with pink on the outside. Nymphcea Odorata Rosea (Cape Cod Water Lily). — This is the famous Pink Water Lily of Cape Cod, and is the grandest acquisition ever made to our list of hardy Nymphaeas. It possesses all the desirable qualities of the white-flowered species, hardiness, freedom of bloom, and delicious fragrance, with the added charm of a deep pink color, a shade somewhat like the Eose called " Her- mosa." The flowers average a larger size than the white, and are in great demand in the large cities and at water- ing-places during their season. We unhesitatingly pro- nounce this the most lovely and desirable of all the hardy W'ater Lilies. It is yet scarce, roots costing from three to five dollars each ; but as it becomes more grown it will be sold much lower. Nymphcea Tuberosa. — This is quite distinct from N. odorata, having flowers from four to seven inches in diameter, pure white, with a faint odor like that of ripe apples. The petals are broader and less pointed than those of N. odorata. The leaves are sometimes fifteen inches wide. Nymphcea Alia. — The native Water Lily of Eng- land, possessing the same early and late blooming qualities as N. candidissima, but with smaller flowers. Nymphcea Alba v. Candidissima. — This is a large-flow- ered variety of the Water Lily of England and other parts of Europe. Though not a tropical species, it does not object to a warm climate, and does finely under the same conditions as the tender ones. When naturalized in still water, with a very rich soil, it will produce leaves thirteen inches wide and flowers six inches in diameter. CULTURE OF WATER LILIES, ETC. 143 The latter are pure white, the petals being very broad and much more waxy than those of N. odorata. It be- gins to flower earlier than that species, and continues in bloom for a much longer time. It is a great favorite. Nymphcea Alba v. Rosea (N. alba v. sphcBrocarpa rosed). — A variety which was first discovered in Sweden, and has received great praise in Europe. It is like N. alba, except that the flowers are deep pink, shaded to lighter pink at the edge. Still rare and very costly. Nymphcea Flava (the Yellow Water Lily). — A charm- ing addition to any collection, having leaves variegated with brown, and flowers nearly as large as those of N. odorata. They are of a bright golden yellow color, and deliciously scented, something like Locust-tree blossoms, but more delicate. Perfectly hardy at the North, but should have a warm position in summer. Nymphcea Pygmcea (the Dwarf Chinese Water Lily). A little gem, producing leaves from two to three inches across, and delicionsly scented white flowers no larger than a silver half dollar, which open at noon and close at sunset. It has the additional merit of being hardy. Nelumbium Speciosum (Egyptian Lotus). — This was cultivated in Egypt in most ancient times, where its seed was known as the " Sacred Bean." It is the " Sacred Lo- tus " of India and China, and is also cultivated in Japan. This wonderful plant, though coming from such tropical and semi-tropical regions, has proved to be entirely hardy in this country, enduring any degree of cold short of act- ual freezing. I have for many winters kept it in water, upon the surface of which ice formed from four to eight inches thick. No aquatic plants have a more tropical as- pect than the Nelumbium. It has been naturalized in one corner of a mill-pond at Bordentown, N. J., where "the mud is very rich, and where, in summer, could have been seen, among abundance of noble leaves from one to two 144 GAKDEN1XG FOE PLEASURE. feet in diameter, a hundred buds in all stages of develop- ment, and one hundred expanded flowers at one time. JV. luteum is a beautiful plant, and well worthy of a place in any collection, but N. speciosum far surpasses it in ease of culture, rapidity of growth, and freedom of bloom. It will flower the first season it is planted, which is seldom the case with N. luteum, and is constantly in bloom from July till late in October. In the " Water Lily Garden," N. speriosum has produced some leaves thirty inches across, on foot-stalks five and six feet in length, and flower-stalks of a total length of from five to seven feet. The first day the flowers appear like gigantic Tea Kose buds, of a bright rose color. The second day they open like a Tulip, the base of the petals being creamy white, most beautifully and delicately shaded off toward the end into bright pink. In their last stages of expansion they measure from ten to thirteen inches from tip to tip of petals. They are also delightfully fragrant. The plant is of a rambling nature, and spreads rapidly when placed in a pond. If grown in a Lily tank, along with a general collection, it should be planted in the separate compartments specially arranged for it. It may be grown in a large tub, but better in basins such as I have described. It should not be planted till the grow- ing season has fully arrived. (See fig. 41). The tubers cost from two to four dollars each, according to size. Nelumbium Luteum (American Lotus). — Though a native of this country, it is not common. There is scarcely any difference between this and N. speciosum, except in the color of the flowers, which are of a rich sulphur yellow. They are as large as a quart bowl, and have a strong fragrance, entirely unlike that of a Nymphaea. Still, warm water and very rich soil are the conditions for success with these noble plants. A large patch of them, with hundreds of flowers and buds, is a sight never to be forgotten. CULTURE OF WATER LILIES, ETC. 145 New Japanese Nelumbiums. — Their habit and general appearance are the same as N. speciosum, but some have larger and bolder flowers, of a more globular form, and distinct fragrance. They are also hardy, like the others. Nelumbium nuciferum album striatum. — The flowers are white, with the edge of each petal irregularly marked and splashed with crimson. A magnificent and distinct variety. Nelumbium nuciferum roseum. — This grand new Japanese variety has flowers of a uniform deep rosy pink color, something like Nymphcea Devo- niensis or the Cape Cod Lily, and much darker than N. ttpeciosum. One of the finest yet introduced. Ne- lumbium nuciferum album (White Lotus). — I have been lavish in praise of the pink Lotus (N. speciosum}, and have nothing to retract. Here we have an exceed- ingly beautiful white variety without a tinge of pink color. The stamens are yellow, and the receptacle shaded green and yellow, forming a novel combination of colors. It is at present the rarest variety now in cultiva- tion in this country, and is still costly. Japanese Nelumbium Seeds. — Nelumbium nuciferum (mixed varieties). Those who wish to have Lotus flow- ers the first season will, of course, plant tubers ; but for those who are willing to wait a year or two for bloom, seeds can be used. Each nut should have a hole the size of a pin drilled in its shell with the point of a penknife, or by using a file, to allow the moisture to penetrate the kernel, or otherwise it will not germinate. The nuts should then be planted in warm water in a greenhouse, or, if it is desired to plant them in a pond, it should not be done until warm weather, and then in water about one foot deep. They may be either dropped in the water and allowed to sink, or pressed into the soil two or three inches. The seeds cost about one dollar per dozen. Limnanthemum Nympliceoides (Villarsia). — This Euro- pean relative of our American Floating Heart is perfectly 146 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE. hardy. Its Nymphaea-like leaves are variegated with brown. The flowers, which are freely produced, are about an inch across, of a golden yellow color, beautifully fringed, and stand erect like the Water Poppies. Should be grown in shallow water. Limnanthemum Lacunosum (Floating Heart). — A na- tive species, which at first sight appears to be a miniature Water Lily. Its leaves are from one to two inches in diameter, beautifully blotched with brown, giving them an appearance similar to those of the Cyclamen. The flowers are white, about half an inch across, and very curiously borne upon the same stem which bears the leaves. The plant blooms freely all summer, and will grow in either shallow or deep water, and would make a charming plant for the aquarium. Aponogeton Distachyon.—A. highly interesting tuberous- rooted water plant, which seems to like a long period of rest. It may be entirely dried off in May and kept dor- mant until fall, when it should be replanted in good soil, in a tub or large pan. It may then be placed in a green- house, where it will flower profusely all winter. It is hardy if planted in a pond. Its leaves are oblong, about six inches by two. The pearly-white flowers, with black anthers, are produced in curious fork-shaped spikes, and are deliciously scented. Trapa Natans (the Water Chestnut). — This is a hardy annual aquatic, bearing, from the midst of a rosette of green leaves, small white flowers, which are followed by good-sized nuts with several sharp thorns. These nuts are edible, and taste something like a cocoa- nut. After once being planted in a pond it will repro- duce itself from year to year. Juncus Taker ncemontana, usually known as J. Ze- bnnus (the Porcupine Plant). — This is a true rush, growing from one and a half to three feet high, produc- THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 147 ing leaves variegated in exactly the same manner as a porcupine quill, with alternate bands of green jmd pure white. It may be grown either as an aquatic or as a gar- den plant, but should never be grown with the crowns of the plant under water, for then the leaves lose much of their variegation. Perfectly hardy. Sagitiaria Kagittifolia Fl. PI. (Double Flowered Ar- row-Head). — The foliage of this plant is similar to our native species, but the flowers are an immense improve- ment, rnak.'ng it one of the most charming additions to any collection of aquatics. The flowers are borne on spikes two feet high ; are as large, full, and double as the finest Carnation or double Balsam, and as white us the driven snow. Perfectly hardy. Sagittaria Variabilis (the Arrow-Head). — A native plant suicable for shallow water, growing about two feet high, bearing arrow-shaped leaves and pearly- white flowers. Pontederia Cordata. — Another interesting plant for shallow water, with heart-shaped leaves and spikes of blue flowers, produced all summer. CHAPTER XXIV. THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. NEXT to the Rose, no plant is now so popular as the Chrysanthemum. It is only some ten or twelve years since, in this country, its great value as an ornamental plant for the fall and early winter months has been fully realized, although it has been long valued in Europe, where it forms the great attraction in all the floral exhi- bitions of autumn. The first great Chrysanthemum Show was given in New York some five years ago, and 148 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. since then, every November, Philadelphia, Boston, and other large cities have vied with New York in getting up these exhibitions, which have attracted tens of thousands of visitors. The fashion is now spreading into the smaller cities and towns, so that the day is not far dis- tant when this most beautiful of all autumn flowers will be found in every hamlet on the continent, whose occu- pants have any taste for flowers. It is the floral emblem of Japan, just as the Thistle is of Scotland or the Fleur de Luce of France, and there is hardly a home in that flowery land so poor that it is not ornamented with one or more varieties of the ''Autumn Queen." In the gardens of the Mikado, which contain marvelous varieties of this plant, they are trained on wire frames to represent animals of all descriptions. White elephants, yellow cows, and crimson dogs are by no means rarities in the grounds of the Mikado. The Chrysanthemum, too, is put to another use in Japan. When a rural swain makes up his mind to sue for the hand of some rustic belle, his first advance is to place on her doorstep as fine a specimen of a Chrysanthemum as he can procure. If it is watered, tended, and cared for, he knows he may "call again;" but if neglected, and allowed to wither and die, so dies out the hope of the unfortunate " Jap," so far as that particular damsel is concerned. The cultivation of the Chrysanthemum is exceed- ingly simple. If the plants are wanted to flower only in the open ground, all that is necessary is to plant them in the open border in any good ground, well enriched with manure. If possible, plant them in a warm, sheltered spot, particularly in any section north of Baltimore ; for, being the latest of all flowers of au- tumn, a better development will be had if they are planted in a place sheltered by a fence, hill, or shrubbery. As they are all sold grown in pots, they can be planted THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 149 out any time from April to July, though preference may be given to May. They form an average width by Oc- tober of two feet in diameter, if the tops are pinched off so as to make them bushy. They should be set out about two feet apart each way. The "topping" or "pinch- ing " back, as it is called, should not be done later than the first of August ; for, if much later, it might destroy the flowering to some extent. House Culture. — When wanted to be grown for green- house or house culture, the best plan for amateurs is to put each plant, when received, in a flower pot six, seven, or eight inches wide and deep. Plunge these pots to the rims in the open ground, level with the soil, treating them exactly the same as recommended for planting in the open border, by pinching, etc. Care should, however, be taken to turn the flower pots round every eight or ten days, so as to prevent the roots from getting through the bottom of the pot, the object being to confine all the roots within the pot. This same plan is the best for amateurs who cultivate any kind of plant to grow in the house or greenhouse in winter. Although the Chrysan- themum is entirely hardy, so that even the flower buds will stand quite a freeze without injury, yet, to get the best effect from the plants designed for house culture, they should be taken indoors by October 1st. How to Grow for Spring Flowering. — Although the Chrysanthemum is generally only grown for the fall and early winter months, yet, by taking the first young shoots that start from the root of the old plants which are flow- ering in the fall (say by the middle of November), and placing them in the propagating bed, they will root m a few days. If grown on in the ordinary greenhouse tem- perature during winter, shifting them into larger pots as their necessities require, by April they make fine flower- ing plants. The past season we grew a few hundred in this manner, that made grand plants for church decora- 150 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. tion at Easter, on the 10th of April. They were grown in six-inch pots, and averaged fifteen expanded flowers to a plant. The large Chrysanthemum flowers which are seen at the exhibitions are obtained by pinching off all the buds Fig. 45. — CHRYSANTHEMUM MRS. BRETT. but one on each shoot, just as soon as the buds can be seen. This is called "disbudding." In this way, many kinds of Chrysanthemum flowers can be obtained six inches in diameter. This is the method used to obtain THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 151 all the fine flowers seen at the exhibitions. It is deceiv- ing, however, to those unacquainted with the plan, be- cause a flower so obtained, six or seven inches in diam- eter, if grown with half a dozen flowers on the same shoot, would not be half the size. Hence amateurs, who have selected special kinds from the cut-flower tables at exhibitions, must not be disappointed at finding them half the size when they flower, unless they use the same process of disbudding to obtain large flowers. I give here a list of varieties, such as are esteemed the best at the date at which this is written (1887), though it is likely that in ten years some of them will be superseded by better kinds ; but a list is necessary to show to our amateur readers the range of color and style embraced by the Chrysanthemum. Early Varieties. — Although all of the Chrysanthe- mums are early enough to perfect their flowers in the open ground south of Baltimore, yet, in the vicinity of New York and further north, many of the late kinds sometimes do not ; hence we name this early collection for the benefit of residents of extreme Northern States. Bouquet Nationale, fine large double flower; pure white, with lemon center. Bouquet Fait, delicate rosy lilac, shaded silvery white. Elaine, beautiful waxy white ; perfect form ; extra fine. Red Dragon, dark yellow, streaked bronze and crimson. Gloriosum, bright sul- phur yellow ; very free flowering. Geo. Glenny, a fine old early yellow, incurved. J. Collins, salmon maroon, shaded bronze. Mrs. Brett (figure 45), sulphur yel- low, forming a complete ball. M. Lemoine, dark yellow, streaked bronze and crimson. Mad. Grame, pure white ; fine incurved flower. Mrs. S. Lyon, large single white, golden center. Sonce d'Or, intense yellow, shaded old gold. Late or "Christmas." — Under this heading we name the very latest flowering varieties ; such kinds as perfect their 152 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. flowers in the house about the " holiday" season. Most of these kinds would be too late in flowering for any sec- tion north of Baltimore in the open air, but would bloom freely out of doors south, some of the kinds lasting up to Christmas. Betid d'Or, pure golden yellow. As Fig. 46.— CHRYSANTHEMUM CULLINGFOBDI. the flowers mature, the petals lap over, forming ribbon- like bells. Cullingfordi (figure 46), crimson, shaded ma- roon. Count of Germany, bronze and old gold. Christ- mas Eve, pure snow white. Fantasie, pink, shading to PARLOR GARDENING. 153 white. Fair Maid of Guernsey, clear dazzling white ; immense ball-like flowers. Golden Dragon, very large ; dark golden yellow ; broad, heavy petals. Jupiter, brill- iant reddish crimson. James Salter, clear light yellow; beautifully incurved as the flower opens. Lord Byron, dark, rich crimson, shaded old gold. Lady Slade, deli- cate purple pink ; beautifully incurved. Mrs. C. L. Al- len, carmine, yellow center. Moonlight, immense size ; beautiful lemon white. Mrs. C. H. Wlieeler, upper part of petals deep yellow, under vermilion. Maid of Athens, very large ; pure snow white. Talford Sailer, dwarf, compact grower ; rich crimson, streaked golden bronze. Yelloiv Eagle, very large ; dark golden yellow ; ribbon- like petals. CHAPTER XXV. PARLOR GARDENING, OR THE CULTIVATION OF PLANTS IN ROOMS. PARLOR GARDENING has, to some extent, been treated of under the head of "Winter-Flowering Plants," but a few additional general directions for plants not specially designed for winter flowering may be acceptable. One of the conditions essential to success is to start with healthy plants. Even all the professional skill of the florist, with all his appliances, will often fail to get a sickly plant into a healthy condition. What, then, can the amateur florist expect to do in the often unequal temperature and dry atmosphere of a sitting-room or parlor ? If the plants are purchased from the florist in autumn, to grow in the house, they are likely to be healthy, and are usually in a condition to shift into a pot one size larger ; instructions for doing which are given in the chapter on " Winter-Flowering Plants." But if the 154 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. plants to be cultivated in the house are such as have been growing in your own flower borders, plants that were set out in spring, and have now the full summer's luxuriant growth still on them, then proper precaution must be taken in lifting them and placing them in pots, or the result is certain to be most unsatisfactory. What may seem to the novice a little singular is, that the more luxuriant the growth of the plant in the open border, the more danger there is that it will wilt or die when lifted in the fall, and placed in a pot. The reason of this is obvious, when it is known that just in proportion to the top growth of a plant is the wide-spread develop- ment of roots, and, therefore, when you lift a finely- grown Geranium or Kose in October, it is next to impos- sible, if it is to be got into a suitable sized flower pot, to do so without such mutilation of the young roots as will certainly kill it, if precaution is not taken to cut off at least two-thirds of its branches. If the plant is thus potted, and kept as dry as it will stand, without actually withering, until it starts into growth, you may hope to have a fairly healthy specimen by December, if the lifting was done in October. But this practice, though often one of necessity, is never satisfactory. If the plants that have done service in the borders in summer are to be used as ornaments for the parlor in fall, winter, and spring, they must have a different treatment. All plants that are intended for future culture in rooms should be potted in the usual way, in five or six- inch pots, when set out in May or June. These pots should be set in the flower borders, but planted or "plunged," as it is called, so that the rim of the pot is level with the surface of the ground. The plants will flower in these pots, if so desired, nearly as well as if set directly in the open ground ; but if wanted for flowering in winter, they will bloom much better to have the flower buds picked off as fall approaches. It is also indispensa- PARLOR GARDENING. 155 bly necessary that the hole in the bottom of the pot be entirely stopped, so that the roots cannot get through while growing in the open border in summer. The object is to confine the roots completely within the bounds of the pot, so that, when taken up in the fall to be shifted into a larger pot, the roots will be undisturbed, and the plant will grow on unchecked. If this is not done, and the roots Snd their way through the bottom of the pot, there will be the same difficulty with the roots as if they had not been potted. About the best time to take plants in-doors in this latitude is the middle of October ; in colder localities, earlier, of course, and in warmer, later ; always bearing in mind that the longer they can be kept in the open air, provided they are safe from frost, the better. Plants suited for parlor culture, requiring a temperature of from forty-five to fifty-five degrees at night, with an average of ten to twenty de- grees higher during the day, are as follows. These are known as greenhouse plants. For descriptions see cata- logues of florists and nurserymen. *Abutilons. Holland Bulbs of all kinds. Acacias. Hoyas (Wax Plant). *Agapanthus. Ivies, parlor and hardy. Ageratums. Jessamines, Cape. Anthemis. *Jessamines, Catalonian. Asparagus, Climbing. Lily of the Valley. Azaleas. Lobelias. Calceolarias. *Mahemias. *Callas. Marguerites, white and yellow. Camellias. *Mesembryanthemums (Wax Pink). *Carnations. Mimulus (Musk). Chorizema. *Myrsiphyllum or Smilax. Chrysanthemums. Oleanders. Cinerarias. Oranges. Cupheas. Oxalis. Cyclamens. Petunias. Daphnes. *Primulas, double and single. *Ferns, Climbing. *Roses. Feverfews. Stevia. •Fuchsias. Vincas. Geraniums (Pelargoniums). Violets. 156 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. What are known us hothouse or tropical plants re- quire a higher temperature than the preceding, and can- not be well grown unless with a night temperature of from sixty to seventy degrees, and. a day temperature of from ten to fifteen degrees higher. The following, of most of which there are several varieties, can be found described in the catalogues of dealers : Allamandas. Ferns, tropical. Allocasias. - Heliotropes. Begonias. Hibiscus. Bouvardias. Impatiens. Caladiums. Marantas. Cissus. Orchids (of all kinds). Clerodendrons. Passifloras. Cobaeas. Peperomias. Coleus. Poinsettia. Crotons. Salvias. Dracaenas. Sanchezias. Epiphyllums (Cactus). Torenias. Eranthemums. Tropaeolums. Euphorbias. Tuberoses. This matter of temperature has everything to do with the successful cultivation of plants in rooms, or, in fact, anywhere. If you attempt, for example, to grow Bou- vardias or Begonias in an average temperature of forty- five degrees at night, the plants will barely live, and will not flower, nor be healthy. On the other hand, if you subject your Camellias or Geraniums to an average of sixty-five degrees at night by fire heat in winter, you are almost certain to have the flowers drop prematurely. As a rule, there are more of the plants known as greenhouse that will endure the high temperature necessary for the hothouse plants, than there are of the hothouse plants that can stand the low temperature, so that, when no distinction can be made, and a high temperature only can be had, all in the list of greenhouse plants I have marked with a * may be grown fairly well in the high temperature, though they would do better in the low one. PARLOR GARDENING. 157 The culture of plants in rooms is already described in the chapter on "Winter-Flowering Plants," so that I need not further allude to it, except to hint in regard to the manner of placing the plants. One of the cheapest and neatest contrivances is the "folding plant stand" (figure 47). The sizes are from three to six feet wide and eight feet high, having from four to six shelves, and capable of holding from twenty-five to one hundred plants. It is hinged so as to fold up like a camp stool, the shelves fitting in between the frames, and it can be thus shipped or stowed away when not wanted, with great con- venience. Rollers can be at- tached to the feet, so that it may be moved about as easily as a table ; a great advantage in cold nights, when it can be drawn awav from the win- j £ j.1 Fig. 47. — FOLDING PLANT STAND. dow to a warmer part of the room or to another room. Plants, when placed on this, or similar stands, may be provided with saucers, so that the floor or carpet need not be injured while watering. It is not a good plan, however, to keep water in the saucers. It is always a safer way of feeding the plant to water the soil on the top, giving only enough for it to reach the bottom, where, if any water pass through, it will be held by the saucer. If no saucers are used, and we think plants are generally grown more safely without them, the best plan is to take down the plants from the stand (three times a week will usually be enough), to some place where the water will not do any injury, and give a good soaking to all such as appear to be dry ; those not so dry, water more sparingly, and give those in which the soil shows that it is wet, none whatever. Let the water drain off, pick off any dead leaves, and replace the pots 158 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. again on the stand, being careful to change them as far as possible, so that each side of the plant may get its fair share of light. If the same part is always placed to the light, the plant will soon become drawn to one side. ARE PLANTS IN ROOMS INJURIOUS TO HEALTH ? The question whether plants may be safely grown in living rooms is now settled by scientific men, who show that, whatever deleterious gases may be given out by plants at night, they are so minute in quantity that no injury is ever done by their presence in the rooms and by being inhaled. Though we were glad to see the question disposed of by such authority, experience had already shown that no bad effects ever resulted from living in apartments where plants were grown. Our greenhouses are one mass of foliage, and I much doubt if any healthier class of men can be found than those engaged in the care of plants. But timid persons may say that the deleteri- ous gases are given out only at night, while our green- house operatives are only employed in daylight. This is only true in part. Our watchmen and men engaged in attending to fires at night make the warm greenhouses their sitting-room and their sleeping-room, and I have yet to hear of the first instance where the slightest injury resulted from this practice. Many of our medical prac- titioners run in old ruts. Some Solomon among them probably gave out this dogma a century ago ; it was made the convenient scapegoat of some other cause of sickness, and the rank and file have followed in his train. A belief in this error often consigns to the cellar, or to the cold winds of winter, the treasured floral pets of a household. WARDIAN CASES, FERXEBIES, AND JA.RDINIEBES. 159 CHAPTER XXVI. WARDIAN CASES, FERNERIES, AND JARDINIERES. THE forms of plant cases for the growth of such plants as require a moist, still atmosphere, a condition impossi- ble to obtain in a room in a dwelling-house, nor even in a greenhouse, unless it is specially erected for the pur- pose, are numerous. The form commonly known as the Wardian Case (figure 48) has a base or tray, usually of black walnut, about six inches deep, and lined with zinc, and glass sides and top. These differ in size, some Fig. 48. — WARDIAN CASE. Fig. 49. — FERNERY WITH GLASS SHADE. being as large as three feet on the sides. .Another neat and cheaper form is made of terra cotta (figure 49), or other earthen ware. These are usually round in shape, and of various sizes, from nine to eighteen inches in di- ameter. In all these the plants must be covered with glass. In the Wardian Case there is glass all around the sides and top, the top being hinged to allow the escape of excess of moisture. In the Jardinieres, or circular 160 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. form, the plants are covered by a bell-glass, which is tilted up a little at the side when there is an appearance of excess of moisture. This condition of excess is known by the glass becoming dimmed by moisture, and the water trickling down the side. Usually, when this appear- ance is seen, by raising the glass lid of the Wardian Case an inch or so for a day, it will relieve it enough to enable it to be kept close, which is the proper way to keep it for the well-being of the plants. The plants grown in this way are of kinds valued for the beauty of their foliage rather than for their flowers, and should be such as are of a some- what slow growth. All rampant growing plants, such as Coleus, are unsuited. The effectiveness of these Cases depends a great deal on the arrangement of the plants. The tallest and most conspicuous things should be in the center, with smaller ones towards the edges, varying the interest by contrasting the different colorings and forms of leaves. Among the plants best suited for growing under these glass coverings are Dracaenas, Gymnostachi- ums, Marantas, Caladmms, some of the ornamental leaved Eranthemums, and dwarf -growing Begonias, Pe- peromias, etc., and Ferns and Lyeopods of the finer sorts. The most of these are plants whose natural habitat is shady woods or marshes ; and for their well being, the nearer that the Wardian Case or Jardiniere can be made to imitate such, the better. The soil used in these cases should be light and porous. The most convenient, and a very suitable material, is leaf mold, which can be got in any piece of woodland. After planting, the soil should be watered freely, to settle it around the roots. To allow evaporation, ventilation should be given for a few days after the watering, when the glass may be put down close, only to be opened, as before directed, when an excess of moisture shows on the glass. Other than this there is no trouble whatever in the management. The watering given on planting will GREENHOUSES ATTACHED TO DWELLINGS. 161 be sufficient to keep it moist enough for six or eight weeks. In winter the temperature of the room in which the Wardian Case or Fernery is kept may run from fifty to seventy degrees at night. These closed Cases of either kind are particularly well adapted for growing Hyacinths in winter, if desired ; but they must first be placed in some cool, dark place, so that the roots may be formed before being brought into the light. (See special in- structions on this head under "Fall or Holland Bulbs.'') When the Cases are brought into the room they will re- quire daily ventilation. The Lily of the Valley can also be grown finely in a Wardian Case. (See '"Fall or Hol- land Bulbs.") CHAPTER XXVII. GREENHOUSES ATTACHED TO DWELLINGS. THE taste engendered by growing plants in rooms often results in a desire to have more appropriate quarters for the plants, and a greenhouse follows. This always affords the most satisfaction when it is so attached to the dwelling, that opening a door or window from the dining- room or parlor reveals the glories of the greenhouse. The greenhouse, when attached to the dwelling, should be always on the east, southeast, south, or southwest sides, never on the north, if flowering plants are to be grown ; though Ferns, Lycopods, Palms, and other plants grown for the beauty of their form or foliage, will do quite well in the shade of a northern aspect. It may be of any length or width desired. If of ten feet width, it will cost for erection from forty to sixty cents per square foot of the glass surface, according to the char- acter of the work. If twenty feet wide, from forty to 162 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. fifty cents per square foot. This is exclusive of heating, which, if done by hot-water pipes, will cost for ten feet wide, about forty cents per square foot of the glass sur- face ; if twenty feet wide, about the same. Thus, to complete a conservatory, with heating apparatus, shelves, etc., ten feet wide by forty feet long, would cost about Fig. 50.— BASE-BURNER. Fig. 51.— SECTION. $400 ; if twenty by forty feet, about $700. In this esti- mate it is assumed that' the heating is to be done by the Base-burning Water-heater of Hitchings & Co., or other similar heater. This heating apparatus is of comparatively recent invention, and is exceedingly well adapted for the purpose, as the fire requires no more at- GREENHOUSES ATTACHED TO DWELLINGS. 163 Fig. 52.— ELEVATION OP CONSERVATORY ATTACHED TO DWELLlNfl. -30- I Fig. 53. — GROUND PLAN OF CONSERVATORY, FIG. 52. 164 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. tention than any base-burning stove. The boiler takes up no more room than an ordinary stove, and requires no setting. It is shown in figure 50, and in section in fig- ure 51. It is fed by coal from the top, and can be left with safety ten or twelve hours without any attention. Fig. 54. — CONSERVATORY ATTACHED TO DWELLING. It must be borne in mind that, in constructing the con- servatory, it must be built where a chimney is accessible by which to carry off the smoke from the boiler or water DETACHED GREENHOUSES, ETC. 1G5 heater, just as would be necessary for an ordinary stove. If the greenhouse is small enough to be heated by a register from the furnace or steam boiler that heats the dwelling, much of the cost may be saved, as it will be seen that nearly half of the cost of construction is the heating apparatus. Figure 52 shows a front elevation of a conservatory suitable to attach to dwellings. It is six- teen feet wide and thirty feet in length. Its ground plan, showing the arrangement of the benches and walks, is given in figure 53. Such a structure in every way com- plete, heated with the Hitchings Base-burning Water- heater, should not exceed one dollar and twenty-five cents per foot of glass surface, or $600. Figure 54 shows a more elegant style of conservatory attached to a dwelling. The size is sixteen by sixteen; hight, twelve feet. The estimated cost complete, with heating apparatus included, for every square foot of glass surface covered, at four dollars per foot, would be $1,024. If heated from the boiler or furnace used to heat the dwelling, perhaps one-third less. This design is given by Lord & Burnham, horticultural architects. CHAPTER XXVIII. DETACHED GREENHOUSES, MODES OF HEATING, ETC. When more extended glass structures are desired they must, of course, be detached from the dwelling or other buildings ; and if shelter, without shade, can be had from hills, woods, or buildings from the north or north- west, so much the better. When greenhouses, graperies, rose houses, or other greenhouse structures are wanted for forcing flowers or fruits in the winter months, they should alwavs be built after what are called "three- 1G6 GARDENING FOE PLEASUEE. quarter spans ; " that is, having nearly two-thirds of the roof long on one side and the other one-third on the other. The long or two-thirds side should in all cases, as near as possible, slope directly south, the ob- ject being to obtain, dur- | ing the dull days of win- £ ter, as much sunlight as ^ possible ; and for the ^ same reason the wood £ workoftheframeshould ^ be as light as possible, g_ and the glass of the 1 largest size that can be \ economically used. The § average size now in use §3 for this purpose is twelve 3 by twenty inches, put in J the twelve inch way. w The brand of glass most- & ly used is what is known % as "second quality dou- g ble thick French." It a is of the utmost impor- g tance that the glass be '. clear and without flaws; ^. otherwise the flaws will E concentrate the sun's rays, forming lenses, and burn the foliage. When greenhouse struc- tures are not wanted specially for winter flow- ers or fruit, they may be formed of equal spans, as in figure 55. In this case the ends should face north and DETACHED GREENHOUSES, ETC. 167 ;Ooo SCALE- Fig. 56.— END-VIEW AND PLAN OF DETACHED GREENHOUSE OR GRAPERT. 168 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Fig. 57. — ELEVATION (IN PART) OF DETACHED GREENHOUSE OB GKAPERT. DETACHED GREENHOUSES, ETC. 169 south, so that the distribution of light will be equal on each side : the east side in the morning and the west in the afternoon. All the walling from the surface of the ground to the glass of a greenhouse had better be made of wood, unless the walls are made very thick when built of brick or stone. The continued warfare in winter between a zero temperature outside and sixty to seventy degrees inside, will in a few years destroy brick or stone walls. When the walls are formed of wood, the best way is to place locust posts at distances of four feet apart, and nail to these a sheathing of boards. Against the boards tack asphaltum or tarred paper, and again against that place the weather-boarding. This forms a wall which, if kept painted, will last for fifty years, and is equally warm as a twelve-inch brick wall, and costs less than half. A common error is to board on each side of the post and fill in with sawdust or shavings. This should never be done, as this filling soon decays, besides forming a resort for mice and other vermin. We have had just such a structure (as figure 57) in use fifteen years as a cold grapery, that has no heating apparatus, the forwarding being done only by the action of the sun on the glass, and it has proved a cheap and satisfactory luxury. A con- servatory or grapery of this style (figures 56 and 57) costs from fifty to sixty cents per square foot, without heating apparatus. Heated by hot water, it would cost one dol- lar to one dollar and twenty-five cents per square foot. If heated by a horizontal flue in the manner here described, the cost would be about seventy-five cents per square foot. GLASS AND GLAZING. If for winter forcing of either fruit or flowers, the glass should be not less than ten by twelve in size, laid in the twelve way, and if twelve by twenty all the better. Even with the greatest care, some flaws in 170 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. the glass will escape detection, and more or less burn the leaves after the sun becomas strong, to counteract which a slight shading had better be used on the glass from April to September. We use naphtha, with just enough white lead mixed in it to give it the appearance of thin milk. This we put on with a syringe, which sufficiently covers up all flaws in the gkss to prevent burning, and at the same time tends to cool the house from the violence of the sun's rays. This is by far the cheapest and best shading we have ever used. It can be graded to any degree of thickness, and costs only about twenty-five cents per thousand square feet of glass, for material and labor. In glazing, the method now almost universally adopted is to bed the glass in putty, and tack it on top with glazier's points, using no putty on the top. The glazier's points are triangular, one corner of which is turned down, so that, when it is driven in, it fits the lower edge of each pane and prevents it from slipping down. A great mistake is often made in giving the glass too much lap. It should only be given just enough to cover the edge of the pane (from one-eighth to one-fourth of an inch). If given too much, the water gets in, and when it freezes it cracks the glass. All who have had experience with greenhouses know that, no matter how well the glazing has been done by bed- ding the glass in putty, the water gets in at the crevices sooner or later, rotting the patty, and, consequently, loos- ening the glass. A simple plan to obviate this (which has recently been introduced) is to pour along the junction of the bar with the glass a thin line of white lead in oil from the slender spout of a machine oil can, over which is shaken dry sand. This at once hardens, and makes a cement which effectually checks all leakage. This, care- fully done, will make such a tight job that no repairs will be necessary for many years. DETACHED GREENHOUSES, ETC. 171 172 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE, The following are a few styles of greenhouse structures of finer finish than most of the preceding. It is all im- portant that the highhs, angles, etc., be kept as near to the plans given as possible, as each plan we believe to be as near correct as it well can be, to give the best results in culture. No scale is given, but a scale can easily be adapted from any of the accompanying measurements. Figure 58 is taken from Lord and Burnbam's book of greenhouse plans, and represents a three-quarter span house, seventeen by sixty, ridge eight feet, heated by six runs of four-inch pipes for hot water. It is the most useful style of all greenhouse structures, and is used for the model rose house, but can be adapted to the grow- ing of all kinds of flowering plants for winter blooming, or for forcing strawberries, cucumbers, and other fruits or vegetables. The estimated cost of such a structure (if the frame and walls are made of wood, and, as a general tiling, we advise them made of wood) would be from one dollar and twenty-five cents to one dollar and fifty cents per foot for the ground area covered by the house ; that is, a house seventeen by sixty at one dollar and twen- ty-five cents would cost $1,275 for the whole structure complete, including the heating by steam or hot water, ventilating apparatus, etc. Of course, the cost would be lessened in proportion to the size of the buildings. The engraving shows the walls to be formed of brick; but this, is not only more costly, but, in our experience, is not so good as wood. (See Greenhouse Structures.) Figure 59 represents a greenhouse twenty by sixty, ridge eleven feet high, full span. The ground plan shows it to be divided in the center by a glass partition, so that, thus divided, it can, if required, be used for greenhouse and hothouse plants by simply adding two additional pipes to the section used for the hothouse ; or one section may be used as a rose house and the other for greenhouse plants. The construction is the same as recommended DETACHED GREENHOUSES, ETC. 173 174 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE. DETACHED GREENHOUSES, ETC. 175 for the house seventeen by sixty (figure 58). The cost of this structure would be about one dollar and fifty cents per foot, or $1,800 for a house twenty by sixty complete. g Figure 60 represents a ^ curvilinear, three-quarter ? span house, eighteen by g sixty, with twelve feet ridge, » which can be used as a green- % house, rose house, or grap- g ery. The cost, if built of S« wood (as advised in the 3 house seventeen by sixty, w figure 58), would be about ^ one dollar and fifty cents | per foot, or $1,620. 5 Figure 61 (center, fifty by g fifty, each wing twenty-five | by forty-five) shows a beau- tiful and one of the most useful of glass structures. The center is to be used for a conservatory or show house, where ornamental foliaged or flowering plants may be placed. The wings are to be used for a grapery, green- house, or rose house, as de- sired. Such a building as is shown in the engraving would cost, with iron frame, brick foundations, and heat- ing and ventilating appara- tus complete, about two dollars and fifty cents per foot, or $11,875, if of the above dimensions. This is the 176) GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. favorite style of greenhouse structure in the vicinity of New York on well-appointed places, varied somewhat in size or architectural details, according to the taste of the HEATING BY HOT WATER AND STEAM. These methods are in almost universal use, though many, who do not wish to go to the expense, still use smoke flues. In heating by hot water it is important that the work be given to some reputable firm, whose knowledge is such as will enable them not only to judge what is the proper capacity of the boiler for the number of pipes to be used, but also how many pipes are necessary to be used for the surface of glass to be heated. Men who have done a large business in heating greenhouses have far better opportunities for knowledge in this matter than the average gardener or florist ; and if those erecting greenhouses have not had extensive and varied practice, they had better be guided by the men who make a busi- ness of heating, as the want of the requisite knowledge of these matters often works serious mischief. Of course, the size of the greenhouse or greenhouses to be heated must determine the capacity of the boiler wanted ; but the boiler being properly apportioned to the length of pipe, the following data, used in our own establishment, may be useful. In our houses, which are twenty feet wide and one hundred feet long, when a night tempera- ture of seventy degrees is required in the coldest weather, ten runs or rows of four-inch pipe, five on each side ; when sixty degrees are wanted, eight runs of pipe, four on each side ; when fifty degrees are wanted, six runs of pipe ; and when only thirty-five or forty degrees are wanted, four runs of pipe. This is for the latitude of New York City, where the temperature rarely falls lower than ten degrees below zero. Latitudes north or south of New York should be graded accordingly. If esti- DETACHED GREENHOUSES, ETC. 177 mated by glass surface, about one foot in length of four- inch pipe is necessary for every three and a half square feet of glass surface, when the temperature is at ten de- grees below zero, to keep a temperature of fifty degrees in the greenhouse. We now place all our pipes under the side benches, as that enables us to use the space under the middle for stowing away many plants safely, which otherwise could not be done if the pipes were there. Heating greenhouses by steam is rapidly coming into use, and, in my opinion, whenever the extent to be heated is over five thousand feet of glass surface, steam should be used in preference to hot water, for the reason that it ought to be cheaper to put up, one foot of steam pipe costing ten cents being equal to the hot-water pipe costing twenty cents ; and, in addition, in a thorough compara- tive trial we find it to be a saving of about twenty-five per cent, in coal. As far as the well-being of the plants is concerned, it makes no difference whatever whether the greenhouse is heated by hot water or by steam. There is an impression that the heat given off from hot-water pipes is more moist than that from steam ; but this is an error, as experiments show there is no difference whatever. USING GAS TAR ON STEAM OK HOT-WATER PIPES. Every season some one is led into the grievous blun- der of painting the hot-water or steam pipes with gas tar. This never fails to result in the almost complete destruc- tion of the plants as soon as the necessity for heating the pipes begins. The heat evolved from the pipes so painted gives out a gas destructive to all species of plant life. When the blunder has been committed, there is no remedy but to take out the pipes and burn the gas tar off by a red heat. All kinds of remedies have been tried again and again, and all have failed, for the reason that 178 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. DETACHED GREENHOUSES, ETC. 179 the gas tar eats right into the grain of the metal, often half through it, so that all surface applications are use- less. Better let all painting of the pipes alone, as a rather better radiation of heat is got if left unpainted. HEATING BY FLUES. When personal attention can be given to the fires, by heating greenhouses with flues a great saving in cost can be made ; in fact, nearly half the cost of construction ; for we find that the hot-water heating apparatus usually is half the cost of building greenhouses, while, if heated by flues, the cost would not be more than ten per cent. of the whole. A new method of constructing flues (or rather a revived method, for it originated in 18^2,) has been in use for the past few years, which has such mani- fest advantages that many now use it who would no doubt otherwise have used hot-water heating. Its pe- culiarity consists in running the flue back to the furnace from which it starts and into the chimney, which is built on the top of the furnace. As soon as the fire is lighted in the furnace, the brick-work forming the arch gets heated, and at once starts an upward draft, driving out the cold air from the chimney, which puts the smoke flue into immediate action and maintains it ; hence there is never any trouble about the draft, as in ordinary flues having the chimney at the most distant point from the furnace. It will be understood that the chimney into which the flue is returned is placed on the top of the arch of the furnace, and not in it, as some might suppose. By this plan we not only get rid of the violent heat given out by the furnace, but at the same time it insures a complete draft, so that the heated air from the furnace is so rapidly carried through the entire length of the flue, that it is nearly as hot when it enters the chimney as 180 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. when it left the furnace. This perfect draft also does away with all danger of the escape of gas from the flues into the greenhouse, which often happens when the draft is not active. Although no system of heating by smoke flues is so satisfactory as by hot water or steam, yet there are many who do not want to go to the expense of hot-water heating, and to such this revived method is one that will, to a great extent, simplify and cheapen the erection of greenhouses. Figure 62 (one-eighth of an inch to the foot scale) shows a greenhouse twenty feet wide by fifty feet long, with furnace room, or shed, ten by twenty feet. Here Fig. 63.— (Scale l/8 of an inch to the foot.) the flues are so disposed as to avoid crossing the walks, being placed under the center bench, but as near as pos- sible to the walk on each side, so that the heat may be evenly diffused throughout. If a difference in tempera- ture is required in a house of this kind, it may be ob- tained by running a glass partition across the house, say at twenty-five feet from the furnace end, which will, of course, make the latter end the hottest. It will be ob- served that the plan (figure 62) shows by dotted lines this new or revived plan of flue heating. Figure 63 (the DETACHED GREENHOUSES, ETC. 181 same scale) is a section, showing the arrangement of the benches, etc. In constructing the furnace for flue heating, the size of the furnace doors should be, for a greenhouse twenty by fifty, about fourteen inches square, and the length of the furnace bars thirty inches. The furnace should be arched over, and the top of the inside of the arch should be about twenty inches from the bars. The flue will always "draw" better if slightly on the ascent through- out its entire length. It should be elevated in all cases from the ground, on flags or bricks, so that its heat may be given out on all sides. The inside measure of the brick flue should not be less than eight by fourteen inches. If tiles can be conveniently procured, they are best to cover with ; but, if not, the top of the flue may be contracted to six inches, and covered with bricks. After the flue has been built of brick to twenty-five or thirty feet from the furnace, cement or vitrified drain pipe, eight or nine inches in diameter, should be used, as they are not only cheaper, but radiate the heat quicker than the bricks ; they are also much easier constructed and cleaned. Care should be taken that no wood work is in contact with the flue at any place. It should be taken as a safe rule, that wood work should in no case be nearer the flue or furnace than eight inches. In constructing, do not be influenced by what the mechanics will tell you, as few of them have any experience in such matters, and are not able to judge of the dangers resulting from wood work being in close contact with the heated bricks. There are scores of greenhouses burned every year owing to carelessness or ignorance in allowing the brick work to be too close to the wood. The cost of such a green- house (twenty by fifty feet), at present prices, heated by flue, would be about six hundred dollars, or about sixty cents per square foot covered by the greenhouse. 182 GAKDENING FOK PLEASUKE. HEATING BY HOT-BEDS. There is no better artificial heat used for the starting of seeds or growing of plants than, that obtained from the hot-bed. The material used is manure fresh from the horse-stable, and when they can be procured, it is better to mix it with about an equal bulk of tan bark or leaves from the woods, or refuse hops. If the weather is very cold, the bulk of manure must be of good size, from five to six wagon loads, thrown into a compact round heap, else the mass may be so chilled that heat will not gener- ate. If a shed is convenient, the manure may be placed there, especially if the quantity is small, to be protected from cold until the heat begins to rise. The heap should be turned and well broken up before being used for the hot-beds, so that the rank steam may escape, and the manure become of the proper " sweetened " condition. It is economy of the heating material to use a pit for the hot-bed. This should be made from two to three feet deep, six feet wide, and of any required length. When a hot-bed is made on the surface of the ground the heat- ing material should not be less than thirty inches deep, and should be at least two feet wider and longer than the frame on which the sashes are placed. Thus, if the hot- bed is for three three-by-six sashes, the actual space covered by the frame would be nine by eighteen ; and for this the hot-bed on which it rests should be twelve by twenty. After the heating material has been packed in the pit to the depth of twenty to twenty-four inches, according to the purpose for which it is wanted, or the season of the year (the earlier in the season, the deeper it is needed), the sashes should be placed on the frame, and kept close until the heat generates in the hot-bed, which will usually take twenty-four hours. Now plunge a thermometer into the manure, and if all is right it will DETACHED GREENHOUSES, ETC. 183 indicate one hundred degrees or more ; but this is yet too hot as bottom heat for the growth of seeds or plants, and a few days of delay must be allowed until the ther- mometer indicates a falling of eight or ten degrees, when four or five inches of soil may be placed upon the manure, and the seeds sown or plants set out in the hot-bed. Am- ateurs are apt to be impatient in the matter of hot-beds, and often lose their first crop by sowing or planting be- fore the first violent heat has subsided. Another very common mistake is in beginning too early in the season. In the latitude of New York nothing is gained by begin- ning before the first week in March, and the result will be very nearly as good if not begun until a month later. There are two or three important matters to bear in mind in the use of hot-beds. It is indispensable for safety to cover the glass at night with shutters or mats until all danger of frost is over ; for it must be remem- bered that the contents of a hot-bed are always tender, from being forced so rapidly by the heat below, and that the slightest frost will kill them. Again, there is danger of overheating in the daytime by a neglect to ventilate when the sun is shining. As a general rule, it will be safe in all the average days of March, April, and May, to have the sash of the hot-bed tilted up from an inch to three inches at the back from 9 A.M. to 4 P.M. Much will, of course, depend upon the activity of the heating material in the hot-bed, the warmth of the weather, and the character of the plants in the bed, so that we can only give a loose general rule. Numbers of inexperienced amateur cultivators often lose the entire contents of their hot-beds by having omitted to ventilate them, and on their return home from business at night find all the plants scorched up ; or the danger of the other extreme is, that the plants are frozen through neglect to cover them at night. A hot-bed requires a certain amount of attention, which must be given at the right time, or no 184 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. satisfactory results can be expected. Careful attention must be given to watering, which should be increased in quantity as the season advances. In all cases, as the tiny hot-bed plants are always tender, tepid water is pref- erable to use, and it should be put on very gently with a fine rose watering pot. CHAPTER XXIX. GREENHOUSES OR PITS WITHOUT ARTIFICIAL HEATING. THE directions given for heating greenhouses by hot water or by flues apply, of course, only to sections of the country where the temperature during the winter months makes heating a necessity. In many of the southern states there is no need of artificial heat. A greenhouse tightly glazed, and placed against a building where it is sheltered from the north and northwest, will keep out frost when the temperature does not fall lower than twenty-five degrees above zero ; and if light wooden shut- ters are used to cover the glass, all those classed as "green- house" plants will be safe even at ten degrees lower, provided the conservatory is attached to the south or southeast side of a dwelling or other building. An- other cheap and simple method of keeping plants during winter in mild latitudes is by the use of the sunken pit or deep frame, which affords the needed protection even more completely than the elevated greenhouse. This is formed by excavating the soil to the depth of from eigh- teen to thirty-six inches, according to the size of the plants it is intended to contain. A convenient width is six feet, the ordinary length of a hot-bed sash, and of such length as may be desired. Great care must be taken that the ground is such that no water will stand GREENHOUSES WITHOUT ARTIFICIAL HEATING. 185 in the pit. If the soil is moist it should be drained, and the bottom covered with an inch or two of cement. The sides of the pit may be either walled up by a four or eight-inch course of brick work, or planked up, as may be preferred; but in either case the back wall should be raised about eighteen inches and the front about six inches above the surface, in order to give the necessary slope to receive the sun's rays and to shed the water. A section of such a pit is shown in figure 64. If a pit of this kind is made in a dry and sheltered position, and the glass covered by light shutters of half-inch boards, Fig. 64.— SUNKEN PIT. it may be used to keep all the hardier class of greenhouse plants, even in localities where the thermometer falls to zero. After all danger of severe weather is past, which, in the latitude of New York, is usually by the last week of April, greenhouses or pits without artificial heat can be safely used for keeping all kinds of greenhouse plants, unless the very tender kinds, such as Coleus, as we rarely have frost sufficiently severe after that date to penetrate into the cold pit or cold greenhouses. In the hands of inexperienced cultivators, plants can always be grown better without artificial heat, which is often very difficult to properly adjust, particularly when the greenhouse is small. A new covering for plants has recently come into use, under the name of " Protecting Cloth." It can be bought for eight or ten cents per yard, so that two yards of it tacked to a light frame will make a " sash covering to protect plants, at a cost of twenty-five cents each, which will answer nearly as well as a glass sash, costing ten times :is much, for all protection that plants require after danger of severe freezing is past. Often, during 186 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. the early part of May, we have from four to six degrees of frost, which would be fatal to all tender plains, which, if covered by the protecting cloth, could be saved. I have frequently been asked since the introduction of the protecting cloth, whether it can be used instead of glass for small greenhouses in winter. In very mild climates, where there is but a few degrees of frost, it would answer fairly well. The only objection would be in case of con- tinued wet weather, as, of course, the cloth would not- shed the rain unless placed at a very sharp angle. CHAPTER XXX. COMBINED CELLAR AND GREENHOUSE. IN connection with the description of the cold pit or greenhouse without fire heat, may be mentioned the com- bined cellar and greenhouse. Many years ago an acci- dental circumstance gave me an opportunity of testing the utility of such a structure. An excavation, twenty by forty feet, and seven feet deep, had been made, walled up with stone, and beams laid across preparatory to placing a building upon it, when the owner changed his plans, and found himself with this useless excavation within a dozen yards of his costly residence. There seemed to be no alternative but to fill it up or plank it over ; but both plans were objectionable, and in discussing how to get out of the difficulty, I suggested erecting a low-roofed greenhouse over it, as the owner had a taste for cultivat- ing plants. This suggestion was followed, and the walls were raised two feet above the surface, and a span-roofed greenhouse erected over it. My idea (which was found to be nearly correct) was, that the large volume of air in the excavation would at COMBINED CELLAR AND GREENHOUSE. 187 no season go below forty degrees, and be sufficient to keep the upper or greenhouse portion of the structure above the freezing point in the coldest weather. This it did completely when the glass was covered at night with shutters ; and the plants with which it was filled, of a kind requiring a low temperature, kept in better health than if they had been grown in a greenhouse having fire heat. Under favorable circumstances such a structure might be made of great utility, and at a trifling cost ; for as it dispenses with heating apparatus, which usually is more than half of the whole cost in all greenhouses, the use of a cellar and greenhouse could be had at probably less than the cost of an ordinary greenhouse ; and for half- hardy plants — plants that will do well in winter if kept only above the freezing point — such a structure will be better for many of them than any kind of greenhouse heated by fire heat. All kinds of Roses, Camellias, Azaleas, Zonal Geraniums, Violets, Cape Jessamines, Carnations, Abutilons, Verbenas. Primulas, Stevias, and, in short, all plants known as cool greenhouse plants, will keep in a healthy, though nearly dormant condition, during the winter months ; but they will flourish with greatly increased vigor at their natural season of growth and flowering as spring advances. Besides, the cellar may be used for the ordinary purposes of such a place ; or, if exclusively for horticultural purposes, no better place can be had for keeping 4all deciduous hardy or half- hardy plants, Hyacinths in pots to start to flower, or any bulbs of similar nature. The great point to be observed is, that the soil where such a structure is to be erected is entirely free from water, or, if not so naturally, it must be made entirely dry by draining. The style that I think would suit best for genera1! pur- poses would be twelve feet in width, and of any length desired. The excavation should not be less than seven 188 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. feet deep, walled up to about one foot above the surface. When complete it would show something like the section in figure 65. If desired, the walls might be raised two feet above the surface level, which would admit of a few windows in the wall to give light in the cellar, if so de- sired. If the glass roof is made fixed, it should have ventilating sashes three by three, at intervals of six or nine feet on each side of the roof ; if of sashes, they should be seven feet long by three feet wide, every alter- nate one being arranged to move for ventilation in the usual way. The position of the structure would be best with its ends north and south. The shutters for cover- Fig. 65.— GREENHOUSE AND CELLAR COMBINED. ing the glass at night should be made of light half-inch pine boards, three feet wide by seven feet long. It will be understood that the advantage of this com- bination of cellar and greenhouse over the ordinary cold pit is, that the air of the greenhouse is warmed or equalized by mixing with the atmosphere of the cellar, which will rarely be less than forty degrees. For the same reason, if a high temperature by fire heat were wanted, say seventy degrees, this large body of air from below of forty degrees would make it difficult to obtain HARDY SHRUBS, CLIMBERS, AND .TREES. 189 it. If the flooring above the cellar is made water tight, which could easily be done, even if covered by plank, by cementing over the plank, the cellar could be used as a mushroom house, as no light is necessary for the growth of mushrooms. (For instructions, see "Mush- room Culture.") CHAPTER XXXI. HARDY SHRUBS, CLIMBERS, AND TREES. A PLACE is seldom so small that a few choice shrubs cannot appropriately find room, and in which climbers are not desirable, while in the larger places these become important to its proper ornamentation. Whether its size admits of the use of trees or not, both deciduous and evergreen shrubs, climbers as well as evergreen trees of low growth, are indispensable. We here append a list of the leading kinds in each class, but which by no means exhausts the number of desirable varieties ; and for the others reference may be made to the catalogues of tho principal nurseries, where also will be found descriptions of those here named. HABDY DECIDUOUS SHBUBS. •dSsculus parviflora Dwarf Horse-Chestnut, rosy white. Azalea Potitica, hybrids Belgian Azaleas, rose, yellow, etc. Herberts vulgaris Barberry, yellow. " " var. purpurea... Purple-leaved Barberry, yellow. Calycanthus floridns Sweet-scented Shrub, chocolate color. Cercis Japonica Japan Judas Tree, rose-purple. Chionanthus Virginica -Fringe Tree, white. Clethra alnifolia Sweet Pepper Bush, greenish, scented. Cotoneaster microphylla Small-leaved Cotoneaster, white. Cratcegus Pyracantha . . - .Pyracanth Thorn, white. " oxyacanthafl.pl. - .Hawthorn, double white. " " cocdneafl.pl. Hawthorn, double scarlet. Cydonia (Pyrus) Japonica Japan Quince, scarlet, white, etc. 190 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Cytisus elongatus Laburnum , yellow. Deutzia scabra Rough Deutzia, white. " crenatafl. pi Double Deutzia, white. " gracilis Slender Deutzia, white. Euonymus atropurpureus Burning Bush, fruit orange -scarlet. " latifolius Broad-leaved B. B., fruit orange-scar't. Exochorda (Spircea) grandiflora.-.L&rge Flowering Spiraea, white. Forsylhia viridissima. Golden Bell, yellow. Halesia tetraptera Silver Bell, white. Hibiscus Syriacusfl. pi '.. . .Rose of Sharon, double, all shades from white to crimson. Hydrangea panic ulata grandiflora.Grea,t-pa.n\cleA Hydrangea, white. ' ' Hortensia Common Hydrangea, blue or pink. " Japonica .Japan Hydrangea, white. Kerria Japonica Japan Globe-flower, yellow. Lonicera Tartarica -Tartarian Honeysuckle, pink and white. Magnolia glauca Sweet Bay Magnolia, greenish-white. " conspicua Yulan Tree, shaded carmine. " Soulangeana Soulange's Magnolia, white and purple. Philadelphia coronarius -Mock Orange, white. " nanus Mock Orange, Dwarf, white. frunus Japonica flore alba plena.. Double-flow 'g Almond, pink or white. Prunus triloba .Japan Flowering Plum, blush-white. jRibes aurcum Missouri Currant, yellow. " sanguineum. Crimson. Mpircea prunifoliafl. pi. Plum-leaved Spiraea, white. " callosa and var. alba Flat-topped Spiraea, pink and white. " Beevesli fl. pi Lance-leaved Spiraea, white. " Douglatni ..Douglas's Spiraea, white. " hypericifolla St. Peter's Wreath, white. Stuartia pentagynia Stuartia, white. Symphoi-icarpus racemosus Snowberry, white fruit. Syringa vulgaris Common Lilac, purple, lilac, and rose. " " alba White Lilac. " Persica .Persian Lilac, purple. " " alba .Persian Lilac, white. Viburnum Opulus... Snowball, white. " plicatum .Dwarf Snowball, white. Weigela rosea .Bush Honeysuckle, rose. " " fol. var. Bush Honeysuckle, variegated foliage. " nivea -Bush Honeysuckle, white. " amabilis -Bush Honeysuckle, rose and white. " Desboisiana Bush Honeysuckle, rose and white. HABDT EVERGREEN SHRUBS. Andro'neda florihunda - Free-flowering Andromeda. Biota Orientalis ... ... Eastern Arbor Vitae. HARDY SHRUBS, CLIMBERS, AND TREES. 191 Buxus sempervirens arborea .Tree Box. Cephalotaxus Fortunii Fortune's Cephalotarus. Daphne Cneorum Garland Flower. Ilex opaca American Holly. Juniperus communis var. Succica.. Swedish Juniper. " " Hibern ica -Irish Juniper. " oblonga pendiUa Weeping Juniper. " squamata - Scaled Juniper. " prostrate .Prostrate Juniper. Kalmvi lati folia. American Laurel. Podocarpus Japonica Japan Yew. Rhododendron Catawbiense, hyb's .Rhododendrons. Taxus baccata English Yew. " Canadcnsis American Yew. " erecta Upright Yew. TJiuja Occidentals American Arbor Vitae. " " var. Sibirica Siberian Arbor Vitae. " " " plicata Plicate Arbor Vitae. " " " nana Dwarf Arbor Vitae. ." " " Geo.Peabody. Golden Arbor Vitas. HARDT EVERGREEN TREES. Abies Canadensis ----- . -Hemlock Spruce. " " var. Sargenti pendula -Sargent' 's Pendulous Hemlock Spruce. " excelsa - - - Norway Spruce. " " var. Gregory ana Gregory's Spruce. " " " pygmcea Dwarf Spruce «' " " inverta Inverted Spruce. " nlgra pumila Dwarf Black Spruce. " Fi-aseri var. Hudsonica Hudson's Bay Fir. " pcctinata European Silver Fir. " " var.fastigiata Erect Silver Fir. " Pichta -- Siberian Silver Fir. Juniperus Virginiana. Red Cedar. Pinus Slrobus White Pine. " Cenibra.. - Swiss Stone Pino. " pwnilio-. Dwarf Pine. " Aiislriaca Austrian Pine. Betinospora obtusa Obtuse-leaved Retinospora. " plumosa aurca Golden-plumed Retinospora. HABDT CLIMBE3S. Akebia quinata - Akebia, purple, fragrant. Ampelopsis quinquefolia Virginia Creeper, leaves grandly col- ored in fall. " Veitchii Leaves grandly colored in fall. " JRoyali Leaves grandly colored in fall. 192 GARDENING FOK PLSASUKli'. Aristolochia sipho Dutchman 's Pipe, greenish-brown, cu- rious. Clematis flammula Virgin's Bower, white. " coccinea Virgin's Bower, scarlet. " azwrea,and various hyb's.All shades from white to deepest pur- ple and blue, double and single. Hedera Helix European Ivy. This in its many varieties is scarcely hardy at New York. Lonicera sempervirens Trumpet Honeysuckle, scarlet, yellow. " Halliana Hall's Honeysuckle, white and buff. " Japonica Japan Honeysuckle, pink and white. " " var. aurea reticulata. Golden-leaved Honeysuckle. " Periclymenuin English Woodbine, crimson, shaded white. " " var. Bdgica. Dutch Honeysuckle, monthly, rose and white. Rose* embrace Yellow, Crimson, White, etc. Tecoma (Blgnonid) grandiflora Large-flowered Trumpet Vine, orange- scailet. " (Bignonid) radicans Trumpet Creeper, orange. Wistaria frutescens American Wistaria, purple and white. ' ' Sinensis . Chinese Wistaria, purple. " " var. alba White Wistaria. " " " Alleni -Allen's Wistaria, violet. " magnifica Magnificent Wistaria, dark purpie, large. For a proper understanding of where to plant the dif- ferent kinds of climbing plants, it is necessary to divide them into two classes. The "twining" kinds, such as are adapted to twine around wire, strings, trellis-work, or limbs of trees, which comprise the largest class ; and the " climbing " kinds, in which is included the Clematis, the grandest and most varied of all climbing plants. The " twining" kinds can be trained on poles eight or ten feet high as individual specimens, or on the trellis-work of verandas, or on wire fences, or on any material which they can twine around. The Loniceras or Honeysuckles require similar treatment ; and though by no means so varied or brilliant in coloring as the Clematis, they are all deliciously fragrant, while, so far, there is only one variety of Clematis that is fragrant, C. jlammula. Of the HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 193 climbing plants that "cling" rather than twine there are the Ampelopsis (known as Virginia Creeper, Boston Ivy, etc.) and the Hedera Helix, the true European Ivy. Both of these attach themselves, in climbing, to walls of brick, stone, or rough wood, trees, etc., by throwing out rootlets or suckers from the stem as they climb, which are firmly attached to whatever they are climbing on. The Ampelopsis Veitchii and Royali are comparatively new plants, but hundreds of thousands of them are now sold annually, and grand specimens are seen in nearly every section of the country. When once established they will climb against walls ten feet in a season, and attain to a hight of fifty feet in three or four years. Many buildings in Boston, New York, and elsewhere, are covered to the roof with these beautiful climbers. The leaves, which are green in summer, overlap lite a coat of mail ; but it is in autumn that they are seen in their glory. No " autumn leaves " surpass in beauty the Am- pelopsis ; shaded crimson, scarlet, and orange, they can be seen, in a clear day, nearly a mile distant. The Am- pelopsis has been largely planted by the Pennsylvania and other railroad lines against the rocks where cuts have been made, and it is in contemplation to use this plant to cling to embankments to prevent sliding. Climbing Roses can be trained on wire or wooden fences, verandas, dead trees, or to poles ; but in all cases they require to be tied or tacked to the support to keep them in proper shape. CHAPTER XXXII. HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. HERBACEOUS perennials include those hardy plants, the stems of which die down at the approach of winter, or earlier if they have completed their growth. The roots 194 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE. being hardy, they remain in the same place for many years in succession. Plants of this class were formerly more popular than they have been of late years, the taste for brilliant bedding effects having caused these former favorites to be neglected. Recently the taste for peren- nials has revived, and while they cannot serve as substi- tutes for what are known as bedding plants, they are ex- ceedingly useful for those who wish to have flowers with but little trouble, as most of them can remain for eight or ten years without requiring any other care than to keep them clear of weeds. It will renew their vigor, however, when the clumps become too large, to lift, divide, and re-set them in fresh soil. For the best results it is advisable to re-set most of them every third year, while some may remain in place indefinitely, taking care to give them a yearly manuring, as the vigorous growing ones soon exhaust the soil immediately around them. In setting out these plants, the taller kinds should be placed at the back of the border, or in the center if the bed is to be seen from both sides, while those of the lowest growth are to be placed at the edge, and those of intermediate size between. A proper selection of these plants will give a succession from early spring until frost stops all bloom. Many of these perennials remain unchanged from their natural state, but bloom in our borders just as they appeared in their native woods and hills in different parts of the world, and seem to show no disposition to "break" or deviate from their normal form, notwithstanding they have been in cultivation for a century or two. On the other hand, many have, by " sporting," or by hybridizing and crossing, as in the case of Pseonies, Phloxes, Irises, and others, produced many florists' varieties, which show forms and colors not found in the native state of the plants, and the frequent occurrence of double flowers among them shows that cultivation has not been without HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 195 its influence. As many of the hardy herbaceous peren- nials are natives of shady woods and swamps, they suffer greatly if exposed to the scorching rays of our summer suns, unless mulched with manure, leaves, or some such material to protect the roots. Most of them also do rather better in a little shade than when exposed to full sunshine^ With such a number to select from, it is diffi- cult to make a list of twenty-five, or even fifty, and not leave out many desirable kinds. Those m the following list are all of generally admitted ex- cellence, and are usually to be obtained from florists and nurserymen. It maybe added here, that there is no part of the coun- try which does not afford wild flowers of sufficient beauty to merit a place in the garden, and most of them, except, perhaps, those which naturally grow in deep shade, will grow larger and bloom finer in a rich border than in their native localities. Perennials are propagated by division of the clumps, by cuttings of the stems, and sometimes of the roots, and by seeds. In many cases the seeds are very slow of germination unless sown as soon as ripe. As most of them do not bloom until the seedlings have made one year's growth, the seeds should be sown in a reserve bed, from which, at the end of the first summer, or in the following spring, they may be transplanted to the place where they are to flower. It is well to give the seedlings some protection the first winter, not because they are not hardy, but to prevent them from being thrown out of the soil by frequent freezing and thawing. A covering of evergreen boughs is most suitable ; but if these are not at hand, use coarse hay or other litter, first laying down some brush, to keep the covering from matting down upon them. 196 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Aconitum Napellus Monkshood. " " variegatum Variegated Monkshood. Anemone Japonica Japan Windflower. ' ' var. Honorine Jdbert - - White Japan Windflower. Pulsatilla Pasque Flower. Aquilegia alpina Alpine Columbine. ccerulea Rocky Mountain Columbine. chrysantha - Golden-spurred Columbine. vulgaris Garden Columbine. Aspe)~ula odorata - - Woodruff. Astilbe Japonica (Incorrectly Spiraea.) Jiaptisia australis -False Indigo. Campanula Ca-patica. Carpathian Harebell. " psrsicifolia Peach-leaved Harebell. ' ' grandiflora Great-flowered Harebell, and others. Cassia Manlandica Wild Senna. Clematis erecta Upright Clematis. " integrifolia ..Entire-leaved Clematis. Colchicwn autumnale Meadow Saffron. Convallaria majalis Lily of the Valley. Chrysanthemum, Chinese and Japanese.. The grand hybrid varieties of the Chrysanthemum now run into thou- sands, of almost every shade except blue and bright scarlet. They are hardy in nearly all sections south of Baltimore, and on light, well-drained soils, in nearly all sections of the country, if covered with four or five inches of leaves or Utter late in the fall. Delphinium elatum Bee Larkspur. ' ' nudicaule Scarlet Larkspur, and others. Dianthus plumarius Garden Pink. " supcrbus Fringed Pink. Dicenlra eximia .Plumy Dicentra. " spcctabUis -Bleeding Heart. Dictamnus Fraxinclla Fraxinella. Dodecatheon Meadia .American Cowslip. Uranthis hiemalis Winter Aconite. Erica carnea Winter Heath. Furikiaovala Blue Plantain Lily. ' ' Japonica (subcordata) Japan Plantain Lily. Oypsophilapaniculata. Panicled Gypsophila. Jfetteborus niger. Christmas Rose. Hepatica trildba Liver-leaf. " " fl.pl,. ..Double-flowered Liver-leaf. Iberis Gibraltarica Gibraltar Candytuft. ' ' sempervirens Perennial Candytuft. Iris Gcrmanica German Iris. HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 197 Iris Iberica - -Iberian Iris. " Kceriipferi .Japan Iris. " putnila Dwarf Ms, and many others of a great range of colors. Lathyrus, perennial Flowering Pea. Liatris spicata . . Blazing Star. " squarrosa ...Blazing Star, and others. Lilium auratum Gold-banded Lily. This, with many other Japanese species in the catalogues, is per- fectly hardy, and there should be a good collection of them in every garden. Linumperenne Perennial Flax. Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower. This native (also its hybrids) does perfectly well in the soil of the garden. Lupinuspolyphyllus Many-leaved Lupine. Lychnis Chalcedonica _ Scarlet Lychnis, and several others. Lysimachia nummularia Moneywort. Mertensia Virginica Virginia Lungwort. Myosotis palustris Forget-me-not. ' ' Azor ica Azorean Forget-m e-not. ' ' dissitiflora Early Forget-me-not. Narcissus biflorus Twin-flowered Narcissus. " poeticus Poet's Narcissus. ' ' Jonquilla Jonquil. " Pseudo-Narcissus Daffodil, in double and single varieties. (Enothera Missouriensis Missouri Evening Primrose. Pceonia offlcinalis Common Paeony, and the various hybrids of this and other species, of which there are many fine named sorts. Pceonia tenuifoha Fennel-leaved Pseony. " Moutan Tree Pseony, of which there are many named varieties. Papaver Orientale Oriental Poppy. Pentstemon grandiflorus Large-flowered Pentstemon. " barbatus var. Tprreyi Torrey's Pentstemon. " Palmeri Palmer's Pentstemon, and several other hardy species. P/tlox, herbaceous Garden Phlox. Under this head a great number of named varieties may be had. New ones are offered every year, and a good selection of colors makes a grand show. Phlox subulata Moss Pink. Also the white variety. 198 GAHDEXIXG FOR PLEASURE. Pblemonium reptans -Jacob's Ladder. " cceruleum -- Greek Valerian. Primula veris English Cowslip. This and the Polyanthus varieties need a moist and shady place. P. cortusoides is hardy, and P. Japonica probably so. Pyrethrum carneum -- Kosy Pyrethrum, the new double varieties. Saxifraga crassifolla .Thick-leaved Saxifrage. ' ' cordifolia - Heart -leaved Saxifrage. Sedwn acre Stonecrop. " Sieboldii (and.vai'ieyata) Siebold's Stonecrop. " pidchellum Beautiful Stonecrop. " spectabile Showy Stonecrop, and a large number of others, presenting a great variety in foliage and flowers. Sempervivum arachnoldeum Cobweb Houseleek. *' calcareum (G'o/i/bjvifcwm^Purple-tipped Houseleek. " tectorum .Common Houseleek. Of these curious plants there are more that fifty species in cultivation, and all perfectly hardy ; useful on rock work. Spiraea Jttipendula (and double). Drop wort. " palmala Palmate Spiraea. " Ulmaria _ Meadow Sweet. " lobata .Queen of the Meadow. Symphytum offleinale var Variegated Comfrey. TJialictrum minus Maiden-hair Meadow Rue. Tritoma uvaria (and vars.) Red-hot Poker, needs covering in winter with litter. Tunica Saxifraga Rock Tunica. Yucca JUamentosa Adam's Thread or Needle. PEBESNIAL OBNAMENTAL GRASSES. 1. Arundo Donax Great Reed. 2. " " versicolor Variegated Reed. 8. " conspicua. Silvery Reed. 4. Erianthus Ravennoe Ravenna Grass. 5. Eulalia Japonica variegata Japan Eulalia. 6. " " zebrina Japan Zebra Eulalia. 7. Festuca glauca Blue Fescue Grass. 8. Gy neri urn argenteum Pampas Grass. 9. Panicum virgatum Wan d-like Panic. 10. Phala-i-is arundinacea picta Ribbon Grass. » 11. Stipapennata Feather Grass. In the climate of New York, Nos. 1, 2 and 8 need protection; Nos. 1 and 2 by Utter over the roots, and No 8 by covering it with a cask or box. In the order of their hight, No. 7 is 6 inches, 10 and 11 a foot, 5 and 6, 4 to 8 feet, and 1, 2, 3, 4, and 8 from 6 to 12 feet, according to the age of the plants. FLOWERS WHICH WILL GROW IX THE SHADE. 19y CHAPTER XXXIII. FLOWERS WHICH WILL GROW IN THE SHADE. THERE are few plants that will flower in places from which sunshine is entirely excluded. Some plants will grow well enough, developing shoots and leaves, but floioersoi nearly all kinds must have some sunshine. Of those that do well and flower when planted out in the open ground where sunlight only comes for two or three hours during the day, may be named the following : Calceolarias, Fuchsias, Lobelias, Herbaceous Phloxes, Pansies, Forget-me-nots, Lily of the Valley, and other herbaceous plants and shrubs whose native habitat is shady woods. Perhaps a better effect is produced in such situations by ornamental leaved plants, such as Coleuses of all kinds, Amaranths, Achyranthes, Caladi- u ms, Cannas, and other plants with highly colored or ornamental leaves. With these may be combined the different styles of white or gray-leaved plants, such as Centaureas, Cinerarias, and Gnaphaliums, plants known under the general popular term of '• Dusty Millers." For our own part, we much prefer to devote shaded situ- ations to such plants, rather than to see the abortive at- tempts to produce flowers made by plants in positions where there is no sunshine. It may be here remarked, that the cultivator of plants in rooms should understand the necessity of sunlight to plants that are to flower, and endeavor to get them as near as possible to a window hav- ing an eastern or a southern aspect. The higher the temperature, the more plants suffer for the want of light. Many plants, such as Geraniums, Fuchsias, or Roses, might remain in a temperature of forty degrees, in a cellar for example, away from direct light, for months without material injury, while if the cellar contained a 200 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. furnace keeping up a temperature of seventy degrees, they would all die before the winter was ended, particu- larly if the plants were of a half-hardy nature. If trop- ical species, they might stand it better ; but all plants quickly become enfeebled when kept at a high tempera- ture and away from the light. CHAPTER XXXIV. INSECTS AND OTHER PARASITES INJURIOUS TO PLANTS. WHEN insects attack plants in the greenhouse, parlor, or anywhere under cover, we can generally manage to get them under control; but when they attack plants in the open air, it is, according to our experience, difficult to destroy them. Insects are injurious to plants in the open air in two principal ways : some attack the branches and leaves, and others infest the roots. When insects attack the roots of a plant, we have been able to do but little to stop their ravages. We can manage somewhat better with those attacking the leaves, but even this di- vision of the enemy is often too much for us. As a pre- ventive, we would strongly advise that birds of all kinds should be encouraged. Since the European Sparrows have favored us with their presence in such numbers, in- sects of nearly all kinds have much decreased. Most people will remember the disgusting "measuring worm" that festooned the shade trees in New York, Brooklyn, and other cities twenty years ago. These made their exit almost in proportion to the increase of Sparrows, and they are certainly lessened from what they were before the introduction of the Sparrow. The same is true of the Rose Slug. In my Rose grounds, a few years ago, we were obliged to employ a number of boys for weeks INSECTS AND OTHER PARASITES. 201 during the summer to shake off and kill the Rose Slug, in order to keep the plants alive ; but since we have had the Sparrows in such numbers, hardly one of these pests is now seen. An examination of the crop of a Sparrow killed in July showed that it contained Rose Slugs, Aphis, or green fly, and the seeds of chickweed and other plants, proving beyond question the fact that they are promiscuous feeders. The Rose Slug (Selandria rosce), referred to above, is a light green, soft insect, varying from one-sixteenth of an inch to nearly an inch in length. There are apparently two species or varieties, one of which eats only the cuticle of the lower side of the leaf, the other eats it entire. The first is by far the more destructive here. In a few days after the plants are attacked they appear as if they had been burned. The Rose Chaffer (macrodactylus subspinosus) gets its name from the preference it shows for the buds and blossoms of the Rose, though it is equally destructive to the Dahlia, Aster, Balsam, and many other flowers, and es- pecially grape blossoms. An excellent application for the prevention of the rav- ages of the Rose Chaffer or the Rose Slug, which attacl the hardy or June Roses, is whale-oil soap dissolved iB the proportion of one pound to eight gallons of water. This, if steadily applied twice a week witn, a syringe on Rose plants, before the leaf has developed in spring, will entirely prevent the attacks of the insects. Anothei remedy is to mix an ounce of Paris green in one hundred gallons of water, and syringe as advised with the whale- oil soap. It will be observed that the quantity of Paris green advised is very small to be mixed in such a quan- tity of water ; but it is found to be ample. We find, however, that if the Slug once gets fairly at work, either remedy is powerless unless used so strong as to injure the leaves. The Rose Bug, so called (Aramigus Fulleri), is the 202 GARDENING FOK PLEASURE. most destructive of all insects attacking the Rose while forcing in winter ; for its ravages are so insidious that often the whole Rose house is ruined before it is known, by inexperienced hands, what is the matter. The per- fect insect somewhat resembles a small cockroach, but is of a grayish brown color. It is not easily observed, as it keeps always under the leaves or close to the stems of the plant, and its presence is usually first noticed by half cir- cular pieces being bitten from the edges of the leaves; but it does comparatively little harm in that way. It is when it deposits its eggs in the soil close to the roots that the danger begins. The eggs in a few weeks hatch out into larva?, which at once attack, and, if in sufficient num- bers, entirely destroy the roots of the Rose. So far there is no known remedy against the Rose Bug, unless it be to carefully search for and destroy the perfect insect on the plant. In our own establishment we have got entirely free from it by persistent care in destroying the insect by picking it from the plants. When the soil has become infested by the larvae or maggots of the Rose Bug, there is no remedy. The plants, soil, and even the benches of the greenhouse had better be taken out and burned if the insect is there in great numbers. Before we understood how to manage it, on one occasion we threw out and destroyed the plants, soil, and benches in a Rose house three hundred feet long by twenty feet wide. Hundreds of amateurs, and even professional florists, fail in grow- ing Rose buds in winter from no other cause than the ravages of this insect. Green Fly, or Aphis, is one of the most common, but, fortunately, most easily destroyed, of any insect that in- fests plants, either in-doors or out. In our greenhouses, as already stated, we fumigate twice a week, by burning about half a pound of refuse tobacco stems (made damp) to every five hundred square feet of glass surface ; but in private greenhouses, or on plants in rooms, fumigating is INSECTS AND OTHER PARASITES. 203 often impracticable. Then the tobacco stems can be used by steeping one pound in five gallons of water, until the water gets to be the color of strong tea. This liquid, applied over and under the leaves with a syringe, will de- stroy the insect quite as well as by fumigating, only in either case the application should be made before the insects are seen, to prevent their coming rather than to destroy them when established ; for often by neglect they get a foothold in such legions that all remedies become ineffectual to dislodge them. Another means of prevent- ing the green fly is to apply tobacco in the shape of dust, or the sweepings of tobacco warehouses, which can be found for sale in most seed or agricultural establish- ments, at a cost of five to ten cents per pound. This, ap- plied once or twice a week to an ordinary sized private greenhouse, would effectually prevent any injury from green fly. No special quantity of this need be prescribed, as all that is necessary is to see that it is so dusted on that it reaches all parts of the plant and on both sides of the leaves. It it best to slightly syringe the plants be- forehand, so that the dust will adhere to the leaves. W.hen applied to plants out-doors, it should be done in the morning when the dew is on. Fruit-trees of many kinds, shrubs, Roses of all kinds, Chrysanthemums, and many other plants grown out of doors, are particu- larly liable to injury from some species of Aphis ; but the application of tobacco dust, if made in time, will be found a cheap and effectual remedy. Ground or Blue Aphisis a close relative of the preced- ing, but it gets its living from the roots down in the soil, while the Green and Black Aphis feed in the air on the leaves. The Bine Aphis attacks a great many varieties of plants, particularly in hot, dry weather ; and whenever Asters, Verbenas, Petunias, Centaureas, or such plants begin to droop, it will be found on examination, in three cases out of four, that the farthest extremities of their 204 GARDENING FOR PLEASUKE. roots are completely surrounded by the Blue Aphis. The only remedy we have ever found for this pest is a strong decoction of tobacco, made so strong as to resemble black coffee in color. The earth around the plants must be soaked with this, so that the lowest roots will be reached. The tobacco water will not hurt the plants, but will be fatal to the insect, and, if it has not already damaged the roots to too great an extent, may prove a remedy. Ants. — These are not usually troublesome in the open ground, unless on lawns. (For remedies there see Chap- ter on '-Lawns.") In greenhouses, however, they are one of the worst pests, not so much from the injury they do themselves as by their carrying mealy bug, green fly, and other insects, so that from one plant thus affected the ants will soon distribute them over all the plants in the greenhouse. A simple method we have found to get rid of them, is to lay fresh bones around the infested plants. They will leave everything to feed on these, and when thus accumulated may be easily destroyed. Another method is to blow Pyrethrum or Persian Insect Powder over them with a bellows. They are killed at once if the powder strikes them in a dry state ; but it has no effect if damp, for, when strewed in their haunts, they run over it with impunity. The Red Spider is one of the most insidious enemies of plants, both when under glass and in the open air in summer. It luxuriates in a hot and dry atmosphere, and the only remedy that I can safely recommend to am- ateurs is copious syringings with water, if in the green- house, so that a moist atmosphere can be obtained. This, of course, is not practicable when plants are grown in rooms, and the only thing that can then be done is to sponge off the leaves. It is this insect, more than any- thing else, that makes it so difficult to grow plants in the dry air of the sitting-room, as it may be sapping the life blood from a plant, and its owner never discover the INSECTS AND OTHER PARASITES. 205 cause of his trouble. It is so minute as hardly to be seen by the naked eye, but its ravages soon show; and if the leaves of your plants begin to get brown, an exami- nation of the under surface of the leaf will usually reveal the little pests in great numbers. When they get thus established there is no remedy but to sponge the leaves thoroughly with water or weak soapsuds. The Mealy Bug, as it is generally called, is a white mealy or downy-looking insect, which is often very trou- blesome among hothouse plants, but rarely does any harm among those that can live in a cool room. It is a native of some tropical latitudes, and can only exist in such a temperature as is required by plants of that class. There are various remedies used by florists, but the safest is to use Cole's Insect Destroyer, a remedy that never fails to destroy this insect, without injury to the plant, when sprayed on the plants by a barber's atomizer. On a large scale we find a certain remedy in the use of one pint of Fir Tree Oil to ten gallons of water, applied by the syringe once a week. In fact, we find the use of Fir Tree Oil in this proportion a safe and sure remedy against all insect life; but its application must be continuous, and at least once a week. Brown and White Scale Insects. — These appear as if lifeless, and adhere closely to the stems of such plants as Oleanders, Ivies, etc., and, like the Mealy Bug, are best destroyed by being washed or rubbed off. Kemedy, when on a large scale, is Fir Tree Oil. TJirips. — This is an insect varying in color from light yellow to dark brown, and much more active in its move- ments than the Green Fly, and more difficult to destroy. When it once gets a foothold it is very destructive. It succumbs to tobacco in any of the forms recommended for the destruction of Green Fly, but not so readily. It luxuriates in shaded situations, and generally abounds where plants are standing too thickly together, or where 206 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE. ventilation or light is deficient. It may be safely as- serted, that in any well-regulated place where plants are kept, no injury from this or Green Fly will ever become serious if due attention has been given to keeping the atmosphere of the place moist, and using tobacco freely in any of the forms we have recommended. The Angle Worm. — This is the common worm seen in every soil in pots and in the open ground. It is harmless so far as feeding goes, for it seems never to touch plants as food ; but it bores and crawls around in a way by no means beneficial to pot-grown plants. It is, however, easily dislodged. By slaking a quart of lime and adding water to make up ten gallons of the liquid, and watering the plants with it after it has become clear, the caustic qualities of the lime will be quickly fatal to the worm. When troublesome in the open ground, «sow slaked lime on the dug or plowed surface about as thickly as sand is strewn on a floor, and rake or harrow it in, so as to mix it with the soil. Some writers have asserted that the Angle Worm benefits the soil by its movements through it. Few practical gardeners will believe this, as they are usually destroyed on sight by all workers in the soil. MILDEW. Mildew is a parasitical fungus, often seen on green- house and other plants, and is quickly destructive to their health. But, as with all other plant troubles, it is best to prevent it rather than cure. Care should be taken, particularly where Roses or Grapevines are grown under glass (as both of these are especially liable to be attacked), to avoid a rapid change of temperature, or a long exposure to sudden chill by draughts in ventilating. As soon as spots of grayish-white appear on the leaves of Roses or Grapevines, either out-doors or under glass, it is certain that mildew is present ; but if it has not been INSECTS AND OTHER PARASITES. 207 neglected too long, the following preparation will usually be found a prompt remedy : Take three pounds each of flowers of sulphur and quick-lime, put together and slake the lime, and add six gallons of water ; then boil all to- gether until the liquid is reduced to two gallons, allow it to settle until it gets clear, and bottle for use. One gill only of this is to be mixed in five gallons of water, and syringed over the plants in the evening, taking care not to use it on the fruit when ripe, as it would communicate a taste and smell which would render it useless. Applied in this weak state, it does not injure the leaves, and yet has the power to destroy the low form of vegetable growth which we call mildew. We apply it just as we do to- bacco, once or twice a week, as a preventive, and we rarely have a speck of mildew. Another remedy, not quite so good, but easier to get, is to mix one pound of virgin sulphur with ten pounds of tobacco dust, and throw this mixture with a bellows on the leaves of Grape- vines or Roses outside when the dew is on, so that it shall adhere ; or, if in the greenhouse, after syringing. If this is done once or twice a week the mildew or aphis will never get much of a foothold, the sulphur being the specific against the mildew and the tobacco dust check- ing the aphis. These remedies are such as are employed at seasons when there is no artificial heat used in the greenhouse or the grapery ; but when fire heat is applied to the flue, steam, or hot-water pipes, then the most certain preventive of mildew is to mix lime and sulphur with water to the consistency of thick whitewash, and apply it to the upper surface of the hot-water pipes. This can be done with perfect safety to hot- water pipes, and it had better be done two or three times during the winter. It can also be safely applied to steam pipes heated by low pressure steam, if one-fourth of the surface of the pipe only is covered. With flues it should only be applied at the cold end. 208 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. The fumes of sulphur thus slowly evolved by the water or steam pipes is certain destruction to mildew, and there is no danger whatever to the foliage if the precautions given are taken. It is our own practice to wash our hot- water and steam pipes four or five times during winter with this sulphur wash. CHAPTER XXXV. FROZEN PLANTS. WHEN by any mishap the plants, whether in parlor or greenhouse, become frozen, either at once remove them (taking care not to touch the leaves) to some place warm enough to be just above the point of freezing ; or, if there are too many to do that, get up the fire as rapidly as possible, and raise the temperature. The usual advice is to sprinkle the leaves and shade the plants from the sun. We have never found either remedy of any avail with frozen plants, and the sprinkling is often a serious injury if done before the temperature is above the freez- ing point. In our experience with thousands of frozen plants, we have tried all manner of expedients, and found no better method than to get them out of the freezing atmosphere as quickly as possible ; and we have also found that the damage is in proportion to the succulent condition of the plant and the intensity of the freezing. Just what degree of cold plants in any given condition can endure without injury, we are unable to state. Plants are often frozen so that the leaves hang down, but when thawed out are found to be not at all injured. At an- other time the same low temperature acting on the same kind of plants may kill them outright if they happen to be growing more thriftily, and are full of sap. Much depends on the temperature at which plants have been MULCHING. 209 growing ; for example, we find, if we have a warm spell in fall when, for a week or so, the temperature has been at sixty-five or seventy degrees at night with ten to fifteen degrees more in the open air, that a slight frost will kill or greatly injure such half-hardy plants as Carnations, Geraniums, or monthly Roses ; but should the weather be such as to gradually get colder, so that the tempera- ture has been lowered twenty to twenty-five degrees, a slight frost then coming will do little or no injury to such plants. When the frost is penetrating into a green- house or room in which plants are kept, and the heating arrangements are inadequate to keep it out, the best thing to do is to cover the plants with paper (newspapers) or sheeting. Thus protected, most plants will be en- abled to resist four or five degrees of frost. Paper is rather better than sheeting for this purpose. CHAPTER XXXVI. MULCHING. LITTER of any kind placed around newly-planted trees to prevent evaporation from the soil was the original meaning of mulch; but it is at present extended to in- clude a covering of the soil applied at any time, and for very different purposes. Good cultivators apply hay, straw, or other litter to the surface of the soil to protect the roots of certain plants against the action of frost, it being useful, not so much against freezing as to prevent the alternate freezing and thawing that is apt to occur in our variable and uncertain climate, even in mid-win- ter. As stated under " Strawberry Culture," the mulch applied in the fall protects the roots during winter. It is allowed to remain on the bed, where, if thick enough, it keeps down weeds, and prevents the evaporation of 210 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE. moisture from the soil during the dry time we are apt to have between the flowering and the ripening of the Straw- berry. Besides all this, it makes a clean bed for the fruit to rest upon, and should a driving shower come up as the fruit is ripening, there is no danger that the berries will be splashed with mud and spoiled. The utility of a mulch is not confined to the Strawberry among fruits. Raspberries and Currants are much benefited by it, and by its use a gardener of my acquaintance succeeds in growing fine crops of the choice varieties of English Gooseberries, a fruit with which very few succeed in our hot summers. Newly-planted trees, whether of fruit or ornamental kinds, are much benefited by a mulch, and its application often settles the question of success or failure. We have known a whole Pear orchard to be mulched, and the owner thought its cost was more than repaid by saving the fallen fruit from bruises. The root- ing of a layer is by some gardeners thought to be facili- tated by placing a flat stone over the buried branch; the fact being that the stone acts as a mulch, and prevents the soil around the cut portion from drying out, and greatly favors the rooting process. Even in the vegetable garden mulching is found useful, especially with Cauli- flowers, which find our summers quite too dry. The material of the mulch is not of much importance, the effect being mainly mechanical, and one kind of litter will answer as well as another. The material will be gov- erned in great measure by locality. Those living near salt water will find salt hay, as hay from the marshes is called, the most readily procured. Those who live near pine forests use the fallen leaves, or pine needles, as they are called. In the grain-growing districts straw is abund- ant, and nothing can be better. It can be applied more thoroughly if run through a cutter, though the thrashing machine often makes it short enough. Leaves are na- ture's own mulch, and answer admirably. If there is SHADING. 211 danger of their being blown away, brush laid over them, or even a little earth sprinkled on them, will keep them in place. Tan-bark and sawdust may serve for some uses, but they are very bad for Strawberries, their finer particles being about as objectionable as the soil. One of the best materials to use for Strawberry mulching is the green grass mowed from lawns. This, applied to the thickness of two or three inches around the roots of Strawberries or other small fruits, will be found not only to greatly benefit the crop, particularly in dry weather, but will save greatly in labor by preventing the growth of weeds. One of our best private gardeners in the vicin- ity of New York has adopted this summer mulching with the grass from the lawn for nearly twenty years, and has succeeded in growing all kinds of small fruits in the highest degree of perfection. CHAPTER XXXVII. SHADING. IN mulching the object is to prevent evaporation from, the soil, as well as to shield the roots from sudden changes of temperature. It is often necessnry to protect the whole plant in this respect, and this is accomplished by shading. Although, on a large scale, we can do little in the way of shading plants in the open ground, yet the amateur will often find it of great utility, as screening will frequently save a recently transplanted plant, which without it would be quite ruined by a few hours' exposure to the sun. For shading small plants in the border, such as transplanted annuals, a few shingles will be found very useful. One or two of these can be stuck in the ground so as to completely protect the deli- 212 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. cate plant, and yet not deprive it of air. Six-inch boards of half-inch stuff nailed together to form a V shaped trough are very useful in the garden. They are handy to place over small plants during cold nights, and may be turned over and set to make a screen against strong winds, or used for shading plants in rows. Seedlings often suffer from the heat of the sun in the middle of the day; the seedlings of even the hardiest forest trees are very delicate when young. The seeds of such trees when sown naturally almost always fall where the young plant will be shaded, and the amateur who experiments in this very interesting branch of horticulture, the rais- ing of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs from seed, will find it necessary to imitate Nature, and protect his young seedlings from the intense heat of the sun. There are several ways of doing this. If the seeds have been sown in an open border, let him take twigs about a foot long, evergreen if they can be had, but, if not, those from any deciduous tree, and stick them a few inches apart all over the bed. This will give the seedlings very much such a protection as they would naturally have had in the shade of other plants ; and though evergreens will look better for a while, the dead leaves of deciduous twigs will give quite as useful a shade, It is always safer to sow seeds in a frame, as the young plants are then under more complete control. Frames are easily shaded by means of a lattice made of common laths. Strips of inch stuff, an inch and a half or two inches wide, are used for the sides of the lattice, and laths are nailed across as far apart as their own width. One lath being nailed on, another is laid down to mark the distance, the third one put down and nailed, and the second lath is moved along to mark the distance for the fourth, and so on. With a screen of this kind there is abundant light, but the sun does not shine long at a time on one spot, and the plants have a constantly chang- SHADING. 213 ing sun and shade. This lath screen may be used for shading plants in the open ground, if supported at a proper hight above them. In a propagating house, where it is necessary, as it often is, to shade cuttings, a lattice laid upon the outside of the glass answers a good purpose. The laths are sometimes tied together with strong twine, the cord answering the place of slats, and serving as a warp with which the laths are woven ; the advantage of a screen of this kind being that it can be rolled up. Another and excellent screen to shade is to make frames three by six feet of the " Protecting Cloth" already alluded to in the chapter on "Greenhouses or Pits without Artificial Heat." Plants kept in windows dur- ing summer months will, if in a sunny exposure, require some kind of a shade, and if the one provided to keep the sun from the room shuts out too much light, or ex- cludes air as well as sun, something must be provided which will give protection during the heat of the day, and still allow sufficient light and an abundant circu- lation of air. Any one with ingenuity can arrange a screen of white cotton cloth to answer the purpose. The old practice of stripping the greenhouse in sum- mer is falling into disuse. By a proper selection of plants and sufficient shade, it is made as attractive then as at any other season ; but even for tropical plants the glass must be shaded. For a small lean-to, a screen of lisrht canvas, muslin, or the "Protecting Cloth," ar- ranged upon the outside, so that it may be wound up on a roller when not wanted, will answer ; and if it be de- sired to keep the house as cool as possible, this should be so contrived that there will be a space of six inches or so between that and the glass. But upon a large house, or one with a curvilinear roof, this is not so manageable, and the usual method is to coat the glass with some ma- terial which will obstruct a part of the light. The most common method is to give the outside of the glass a coat 214 QARDEXIXG FOR PLEASURE. of lime whitewash made very thin. This makes a suffi- cient shade, and is gradually dissolved by the rains, so that by autumn the coating is removed, or so nearly so that what remains may be readily washed off. A more pleasant effect is produced by spattering the glass with a prepara- tion of naphtha and white lead, made so thin as to resem- ble skimmed milk. This can be put on by a syringe at a cost not to exceed twenty-five cents for every thousand square feet of glass. It is best to put it on gradually, be- ginning in May by lightly covering the glass in numer- ous fine drops, like rain drops, and increasing its thickness as the season advances. Whatever may be the means of effecting it, we find that in this latitude shading of some kind is required from about the first of May to the middle of September by nearly all plants grown under glass. Ferns, Lycopods, Caladiums, Primulas, Fuchsias, Begonias, Gloxinias, Achimenes, Lobelias, Smilax, and plants of that charac- ter require the glass to be heavily shaded, while Roses, Carnations, Bouvardias, Poinsettias, Geraniums of all kinds, and nearly all succulent plants, do not need so much. The method of spattering the glass outside with the preparation of naphtha and white lead, allows the shading to be light or heavy, as required. When first done, it is spattered very thinly, merely to break the strong glare of the sun, just about thick enough to half cover the surface. As the season advances, the spatter- ing should be repeated to increase the shade, but at no time for the plants last mentioned do we entirely cover the glass. In England, especially for Fern houses, Brunswick green mixed with milk is used, to give a green shade, which is thought to be best suited to these plants. The blue glass for greenhouses which was so highly lauded a few years ago has not met with much favor ; but recent experiments in glazing with ground glass have given such results as to warrant the use of it THE LAW OF COLOR IN FLOWERS. 215 on houses in which nearly all kinds of plants are grown, except Eoses, Grapes, Strawberries, or other plants the flowers and fruit of which are wanted in midwinter. At that season all the light possible is required ; and al- though ground glass but slightly obscures the light, yet it is found that it does not answer so well as clear glass from the middle of December to the middle of January. Before or after these dates it can be used to advantage fox any greenhouse purpose. CHAPTER XXXVIII. THE LAW OF COLOR IN FLOWERS. I REFER to this matter in the hope that it may be the means of saving some of my readers, not only from being duped and swindled by a class of itinerant scamps that annually reap a rich harvest in disposing of impossibili- ties in flowers, but that I may assure them of the utter improbability of their ever seeing such wonders as these fellows offer, thereby saving them from parting with money for worthless objects, and from the ridicule of their friends who are already better advised. This sub- ject cannot ba too often brought before our amateur hor- ticulturists. Warnings are given year after year in lead- ing agricultural and other journals devoted to gardening, yet a new crop of dupes is always coming up, who readily fall victims to the scoundrels who live upon their credu- lity. Not a season passes but some of these swindling dealers have the audacity to plant themselves right in the business centers of our large cities, and hundreds of our sharp business men glide smoothly into their nets. The very men who will chuckle at the misfortunes of a poor rustic when he falls into the hands of a mock 216 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. auctioneer, or a pocket-book dropper, will freely pay ten dollars for a rose plant of which a picture has been shown them as having a blue flower ; the chance of its coming blue being about equal to the chance that the watch of the mock auctioneer will be gold. It has long been known among the best observers of such matters, that in certain families of plants particular colors prevail, and that in no single instance can we ever expect to see blue, yellow, and scarlet colors in varieties of the same species. If any one at all conversant with plants will bring any family of them to mind, it will at once be seen how undeviating is this law. In the Dahlia we have scarlet and yellow, but no approach to blue, and so in the Rose, Hollyhock, etc. Again, in the Verbena, Sal via, etc., we have scarlet and blue, but no yelloio ! In the Hyacinth we have blue and a fairly good yellow, but no scarlet. Some have con- tended that in this family we have the combination, for of course we have crimson ; but crimson is not scarlet any more than blue is purple. If we reflect it will be seen that there is nothing out of the order of Nature in this arrangement. We never expect to see among our poul- try, with their varied but somber plumage, any assume the azure hues of our spring Blue-bird or the dazzling tints of the Oriole ; why, then, should we expect Nature to step out of what seems her fixed laws, and give us a blue Rose, a blue Dahlia, or a yellow Verbena ? CHAPTER XXXIX. HUMBUGS IN HORTICULTURE. A PAPER under this head was read by me at a meeting of the National Association of Nurserymen and Florists held at Chicago, 111., June 16th, 1880; and although it has already in part been published in my work, " Garden and Farm Topics," yet I take the liberty of again repeat- HUMBUGS IN HORTICULTURE. 217 ing the main parts of it here, in the hope that it may be the means of preventing my amateur readers (those who are "gardening for pleasure") from falling into the many traps set for them by those who make a business of swindling in trees, plants, seeds, or fertilizers. The lifetime experience of any man is not too short to be imposed upon by many of the hundreds of old va- rieties of fruits, flowers, or vegetables that are sent out annually under new names. Any well-posted nursery- man can easily detect when a Bartlett Pear or a Baldwin Apple appears under a new name ; or a florist, making a specialty of Roses, knows, as, for example, when, some years ago, the old Solfaterre Rose was sent out under the name of " Augusta " (claiming it to be hardy in every State of the Union, and sold as a great bargain at five dollars apiece), that the venders thereof were either swindlers or entirely ignorant of the business they had embarked in ; or when the confiding market gardener is induced to buy a new and superior Cabbage or Tomato seed at five dollars an ounce, and finds them identical with varieties that he can buy at half that price per pound, he has good reason to come to the conclusion that the man from whom he pur- chased was either a humbug or else unfitted, from his ignorance, to engage in the business of a seedsman. . But, unfortunately, from the varied nature of these impostures, it is exceedingly difficult to mete out justice to those who, knowingly or otherwise, place such swindles on the horticultural community; for the man who grows fruit trees is as likely to know as little about Roses as the man who grows Roses is to know about fruit trees, and either is less likely to be posted on the merits of vege- tables. So, then, if the partly experienced horticulturist may be imposed upon in such a way, how safe is the field when the swindler tries his tricks upon the general public ? The sharp man of the city falls as quickly into the 213 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. trap of the horticultural swindler as the veriest rustic, be- cause his city experience of impostures in other matters helps him nothing in this. He may not be much trou- bled when he sees a bootblack fall off the dock into the river, particularly if his companion plays off the heroic role, and plunges in after him to the rescue. He under- stands it all, for both can swim like ducks, and there was no more danger for the first than for the second, and none for either. A well-stuffed pocket-book snatched from under his feet is an incident that does not in the least arouse his cupidity, for he has long been conversant with the trick of the pocket-book dropper. The mock auctioneer may scream himself hoarse, offering gold watches at five dollars apiece, and it hardly elicits a smile of derision. The tears of the benighted orphan in search of his uncle does not bring a dime from his pocket, for he understands it all, together with a score more of the tricks of the great city. But in the springtime, when his garden instincts begin to bud, and he sees in some window in Broadway flaming representations of fruits and flowers, he falls into the trap and is ready for the spoiler. Some years ago I had occasion to act as an amateur detective in one of these horticultural swindling shops, the owners of which are now known in New York as the "Blue Rose Men." When I arrived, there were at least a dozen ladies and gentlemen engaged in buying seeds, bulbs, and plants, the flowers and fruits of which were represented by the pictures on the walls : for example, Asparagus was shown as having shoots as thick as a broom handle, the seeds of which were selling rapidly at one cent apiece, warranted to produce a crop in three months from the time of sowing. An old lady bad just become the possessor of five dollars' worth, and seemed deligh ted with her bargain. One of the most attractive pictures on the wall was HUMBUGS IN HORTICULTURE. 219 an immense colored engraving, showing a tree, on which Strawberries were growing, and as big as Oranges. My gaze was attracted to a handsome plate of Blue Moss Roses, and I modestly asked the price of the plants. The polite Frenchman (who was doing the principal selling for the concern) whisked out from beneath the table three plants, representing them to be Moss Roses (which, by-the-way, were all alike, and were all our common Prairie Rose), and said, "This one, he bloom only once, I tell you the truth, so I sell him for two dollar. This one, he be the Remontant, he bloom twice — just twice — I sell him for three dollar ; but this one, he be the ever- blooming, perpetual Blue Moss Rose, he bloom all the time, he cheap at five dollars." I quietly remarked, if it bloomed all the time, why was it not blooming now ? He looked at me pityingly, and said, " My dear sir, you expect too much. These Moss Rose just come over in the ship from Paris. You take him home and plant him, and he bloom right away, and he keep on bloom- ing." I did not take him home, but 1 took the story, something in the shape it is now told, and had it pub- lished in one of the leading New York papers, and in less than a week the " Blue Rose Men " had pulled up stakes, but, no doubt, to pitch their camp somewhere else, and set their traps for fresh victims. The "Blue Rose Men " are very impartial in their wanderings, and rarely omit a city of any size, beginning usually in New Orleans in January, running northward, and ending up with Philadelphia, New York, and Boston through April and May. These humbugs in horticulture have their comical side. A few years ago, in passing St. Paul's Church (Broadway), New York, I saw an old negro squatted on the pavement with a great bundle of plants, carefully mossed up, lying alongside of him. On inquiring what they were, he said they were Rose bushes ; Rose bushes having all the good 220 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. things wanted in a Rose, fragrance, hardinecs, and ever- blooming, and the price but fifty cents apiece. He had got them, he said, from the boss, and was selling them on a commission. The poor darkey was only an innocent agent. He no doubt believed he was selling Rose bushes, but the boss, whoever he might be, undoubtedly knew better, for the plants were not Roses at all, but the com- mon Cat Brier (Sntilax sar sap ar ilia), one of the worst pests of our hedgerows, but the plant of which is near enough in appearance to a Rose to deceive the ordinary city merchant. That same season at every prominent street corner could be seen the venders of the " Alligator Plant," which some enterprising genius cut by the wagon load from the Jersey swamps, and dealt them out to those who retailed them on the street. The " Alligator Plant" was sold in lengths of twelve to twenty inches, at from twenty-five to fifty cents apiece, according to its straightness and length ; and by the number engaged in the business, hundreds of dollars' worth must have been sold. The " Alligator Plant" is the rough, triangular branches of the Sweet Gum Tree (Liquidambar styraciflud), common in most parts of thp country. There is no doubt whatever that these pieces of stick have been planted by thousands during the last six years in the gardens in and around New York, with about as much chance of their growing as the fence pickets or paving stones. The bulb peddlers, a class of itinerant swindlers, de- serve brief attention. They have always some wonderful novelty in bulbs ; and their mode of operating, to the uninitiated, has a semblance of fairness, as they are lib- eral fellows, and frankly offer to take one-half cash on delivery, and if the goods do not come up to the repre- sentation, the other half need not be paid. For example, when the Gold-banded Japan Lily was first introduced, HUMBUGS IN HORTICULTUEE. 221 bulbs the size of hickory nuts sold at two hundred and fifty dollars per hundred. About that time one of these worthies came along with samples of a Lily of fine size and appearance, which, he said, he had just received from Japan. There was no doubt of its genuineness, for he had seen it in flower. He had a large stock, and would sell at one hundred dollars per hundred, but he was willing to take half that amount down, and the other half when the bulbs flowered and had proved correct. They did not prove correct, and he never called. The bulb he sold was the common "White Lily (Lilium candidum), which is sold everywhere at five or six dollars per hun- dred. These same scamps flood the rural districts every year with blue Gladiolus, scarlet Tuberoses, and other absurdities in bulbs and seeds, usually on the same terms of one-half cash down, the other half when the rara avis has feathered out. The present season (1887), one of these worthies found out that the flowers of Tuberoses and Lily of the Valley, by being placed in red or blue ink, would in an hour or two absorb enough of the ink to make them a beautiful blue or red. Carrying the colored flowers with him, having the shape, fragrance, and general appearance of the actual flowers of these bulbs, he was successful in selling hundreds of dollars' worth of these wonderful novelties, at ten times their actual value. It is needless to say that they never try it twice on the same victim, but avail themselves of our broad continent to seek out now fields for their operations. One of the most successful swindlers of this type was Comanche George, whose fame became almost national. George made his advent in New York in 1876. He was, he said, a Texas scout, and for years his rifle, revolver, and bowie knife had been the terror of the red men; but one day, in his rambles on the lone Texas prairies, his eye was arrested by a flower, whose wonderful coloring eclipsed the rainbow, and whose delicate perfume was 222 GABDENING FOR PLEASURE. wafted over the Brazos for leagues ; in short, never before had eye of mortal rested on such a flower. The man of war was subdued. He betook himself to the peaceful task of gathering seed, and turned his steps to the haunts of civilized man to distribute it. We first heard of him in Washington, where he wished to place it in the hands of the government, and accordingly offered it to Mr. William Smith, Superintendent of the Botanic Gardens there ; but the government, being short of funds, so Smith said, was not just then in a position to buy, and with his advice George trimmed his "sales "for New York and a market. His success in Baltimore and Philadelphia was so great (where he started the sale of the seeds at two cents apiece) that it induced him, when he struck New York, to advance the price to five cents a seed. He put up at one of the best hotels, and claimed that for a month his sales of the seed of the Cockatelle — the beautiful Texas flower — reached fifty dollars a day. But his success threw him off his balance. He took to fire water, and in an unguarded moment fell into the hands of a newspaper man, who extracted from him all the facts connected with the enterprise. George never was a scout, had never been in Texas, but he had been a good customer to the various seedsmen of the different cities, where his purchases of Okra or Gumbo seed, at about fifty cents a pound, had made nearly a dearth of the article. His victims (whose names he gave by the score, and which were duly chronicled in the newspaper article referred to) were from all classes : the enterprising florist, who secretly went into it in a wholesale way, with a view to outwit his less fortunate fellows ; the grandee of Fifth Avenue, who anticipated a blaze of beauty on his lawn ; the hotel man, whose window boxes were to perfume the air ; all had fallen easy victims to the wiles of Comanche George. George disappeared from New York, though there is but little doubt that his business had been too HUMBUGS IN HORTICULTURE. 223 successful for him to abandon it. A newspaper para- graph which reads as follows, looks as if it might be the Texas scout in a somewhat different role : "The prepossessing appearance, gentlemanly demeanor, and foreign accent of the man who called himself Carlo Corella, botanist to the Court of Brazil, convinced a number of wealthy San Francisco ladies that he was truthful. He said to each that the failure of a remittance compelled him to sell some rare bulbs of Brazilian Lilies, which he had intended to present to Mrs. R. B. Hayes. * The flower,' says the Chronicle, 'was to be a great scar- let bell, with ecru ruchings on the petals, a solferino frill around the pistil, and a whole bottle of perfumery in each stamen.' He sold about fifty almost worthless bulbs at four dollars each." Nurserymen are no doubt better posted in the swindles practiced in their particular department than I am ; but operators engage in different lines in different parts of the country; for example, we have never yet seen in the Eastern States any one trying to sell an apple tree bear- ing blue apples as big as melons, as we were told, at our meeting at Cleveland, had been successfully done in Ohio and Illinois. Still we have men of fair ability in the nursery swindling line, one of whom last winter suc- ceeded in disposing of hundreds of " winter-bearing grapes," by carrying with him a few good bunches of the white Malaga of the shops. One great detriment, not only to the florist, but to the purchaser, is begotten of these swindles in horticulture. The purchaser of flowers m our markets must have his plants in bloom, because he has been at times so swindled that he must now see what he buys. In New York, the amateur rarely buys from the grower, but from the agent or middleman who sells in the market stands or street corners. These, whether men or women, are generally entirely ignorant of the nature of plants, and most of 224 GARDENING FOR PLEASUKE. them have no responsibility, and they rarely fail to make their wares accord with the wants of the purchaser : nearly every plant is hardy, ever-blooming, and has all the qualities desired by the buyer. But now and then these swindles become a serions matter to the victim. Some years ago a typical English- man, who had been a green grocer in Covent Garden Market, London, found his way to New York. He at once discovered an almost entire absence of Cauliflowers in our markets, and what few there were, were sold at prices four times those of London. He soon made up his mind to make his fortune, and, at the same time, show the Yankees something they did not know. He duly selected and prepared the ground for an acre, and one day in May he sallied into the market to procure his Cauliflower plants. This he found no difficulty in doing, for at Dutch Peggy's (in those days the headquarters for all kind of herbs, plants, and seeds) they were to be seen by the wagon load. Ten thousand were procured (the num- ber required for his acre), and, duly planted, they began to grow apace. He had planted the first of May. If it had been in England, his, Cauliflower heads would have been ready about the first of July; but something was evi- dently wrong in the Yankee climate. His Cauliflowers grew through June, through July into August, only to develop into fine specimens of Drumhead Cabbage, then of hardly the value he had paid for them as Cauliflower plants. He got out of the business thoroughly dis- gusted ; and in telling his sorrowful tale to me a year afterward, he related that when he went to expostulate with old Peggy about having blasted his prospects, before he could get a word said, she recognized him as a cus- tomer, and demanded to know if he did not again want some more early Cauliflower plants. I have said old Peggy was also a vender of seeds. It is now nearly forty years ago that a young florist pre- HUMBUGS lif HOKTICULTURB. 225 sented himself before her and purchased an ounce of Mignonette. Ever alive to business, Peggy asked him if he had tried the new red Mignonette. He protested there was no such thing, but Peggy's candid manner persuaded him, and fifty cents were invested. The seed looked familiar, and when it sprouted it looked more familiar ; when it bloomed it was far too familiar, for it was Red Clover. Peggy has long since been gathered to her fathers, and I have entirely forgiven her for selling me the red Mignonette. Perhaps there is no swindling that is more extensively practiced, and which so cruelly injures the operators of the soil, as that of adulteration in fertilizers. The great mass of our farmers and gardeners are poor men, who can ill afford even to pay for the pure fertilizers necessary to grow their crops, and to pay money and high freights on adulterations worse than useless, is hard indeed. The ignorance of those dealing in such wares does much to spread the evil. A man came into my office last sum- mer with samples of a fertilizer, nicely put up in cans, which he claimed could be sold in immense quantities by the seedsmen, as it had not only the wonderful properties of invigorating and stimulating all planted crops, but that it at the same time would kill all noxious weeds. I need not say that he had waked up the wrong passenger, and that he made a rapid movement toward the door. Yet, notwithstanding the impudence and absurdity of such a claim, the scamp was enabled to prowl around the vicinity of New York for weeks, and, undoubtedly, sold to hundreds. If he had said he had a cannon from which, when grape shot was fired into a crowd, it killed only enemies — never friends — the one claim would have been as reasonable as the other. There is another species of humbugging, which, though it can hardly be called swindling, is somewhat akin to it. I refer to the men who claim to have secrets by which 226 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. they can accomplish extraordinary results in the propa- gation and culture of plants. I can well remember, in my early days, that the nursery propagator was looked upon as a sort of demi-god, possessing secrets known only to himself and a favored few, whose interest it was to continue to throw dust in the eyes of every young as- pirant after knowledge. The door of the propagating house was locked and bolted, as if it were a Bastile, and even the proprietor (if he were unfortunate enough not to have practical knowledge) was allowed entrance only as a special favor ; for his propagator was an autocrat, of whom he stood in awe and reverence. But since the advent of horticultural publications in America, particu- larly during the past fifteen or twenty years, the "secrets" of these pretentious fellows have had such ventilation, that now nearly every operation of the greenhouse is as well understood by the tens of thousands engaged in the business, as the operations of the farm are by the farmer. The most of these pretenders to this sscret knowledge of horticulture are foreigners, though occasionally a nati ve tries it on. Some twenty years ago, when the grape-vine mania was at its hight, an old Connecticut farmer pre- tended he had discovered a new method of propagating the grape, which he would impart for a consideration to the highest bidder. He issued a profusion of hand bills to the trade, asking for bids, modestly requesting the re- ceiver of the hand bill to hang it up in a conspicuous place. I sent my copy to my friend Meehan, of the Gardener's Monthly, saying that the pages of that magazine were the most conspicuous place I knew of to comply with the wish of the old gentleman. Mr. Meehan not only in- serted the advertisement gratis, and in the most conspicu- ous manner, but he did more, for he appended below the advertisement a few remarks I had ventured to make on the subject. This opened the ball, and for six months HUMBUGS IN HORTICULTURE. 227 the pages of the Gardener's Monthly became the battle ground for the opinions of the " discoverer" and myself. But the gratuitous advertisement did not avail him much, for he and his secret soon passed into oblivion, and were heard from no more. There are no secrets in horticul- ture. The laws that govern the germination of a seed, the rooting of a cutting, or the taking of a bud or graft, are the same now as they were a thousand years ago, and anyone pretending to have any secret knowledge in the matter is either an ignoramus or an imposter. Since the above was written several other swindling schemes have been perpetrated. Among others, the bulb man has turned up again. Having for the time being become too well known in the city, he has betaken him- self to the rural districts, where he plied his trade last fall most successfully, finding his victims chiefly among confiding women. Taking pattern of the " Blue Eose Man," he has provided himself with gaudy pictures of impossible Lilies, which ought to deceive none but the thoughtless or ignorant. As a matter of precaution, it may be well to describe his methods of operating. His first move is to learn the names of the wealthiest and best known people in the neighborhood. He then begins his canvass, calling at houses where he has reason to believe none of the male members of the family is at home. He has just returned from California, where he had the great good fortune to discover three kinds of the most gorgeous of all Lilies, hitherto entirely unknown, and now for the first and only time offered for sale. Their size is immense, the colors gorgeous, and the fragrance exquisite. No such Lilies have been seen before. He has sold Mrs. Brown, and Mrs. Smith, and Mrs. Jones (naming well-known neighbors) bulbs of each of the three kinds at four and five dollars a bulb ; but as he has only a few left, and is anxious to get home, he will sell the remainder at two and three dollars each. His vie- 228 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. tims hesitate in doubt a few moments, and then drop into the net. I had the pleasure of blocking this feJlow's operations in one instance, appearing on the scene just in time to do so. In one locality, within my personal knowl- edge, this man sold dozens of these bulbs to confiding victims. I saw some of these " gorgeous " new California Lilies when they came into flower, and they were all neither more nor less than the common white garden Lily (Lilium candidum), fine bulbs of which can always be bought for ten or twelve cents each. Another instance may be mentioned, in which the rogue offered for sale, at a dollar a paper, the seed of a variety of Mignonette even more famous than the red Mignon- ette of Aunt Peggy before mentioned. This bore mag- nificent spikes of flowers, nearly two feet long and of delicious fragrance. A lady friend, one of his victims, carefully sowed the seeds, and waited anxiously for the appearance of the plants. The seedlings proved to be so vigorous that she ventured to separate and transplant them in the open border. They grew and grew till they finally rivaled in growth the famous mustard seed mentioned in the good Book. The reader will probably smile when I tell him that this famous Mignonette proved to be Pearl Millet, a kind of grass growing ten feet high. The present season one of these itinerants is doing a thriving business by selling common Parsnip seed, which he has caused to absorb various perfumes. This, supplemented with flam- ing pictures of Eoses of every hue, makes it an easy busi- ness for him to sell this " Eose Seed " of any perfume desired ! The following from the New York Tribune of Febru- ary 19th, 1882, shows that occasionally these enterprising gentlemen receive their deserts : " The case of John Harrison, the industrious seed peddler, who was locked up in Newark the other day, is HUMBUGS IN HORTICULTURE. 229 one which calls for commiseration. It was a propitious season for business in this line, for the near approach of spring had begun to warm up the desire to worry the soil and plant something, a desire that slumbers in the bosom of every man or woman who is the proprietor of a garden, a back-yard, or even of a flower pot. Our vender was therefore driving a brisk trade, when he was arrested for obtaining money under false pretenses. The pre- tense and falsehood charged were Mr. Harrison's state- menr. that his seeds, when dropped into water or earth, would speedily germinate and grow into a bush, which would suddenly burst into beautiful and fragrant bloom, and tnen bear a rich fruitage of ( wash-rags ;' a crop which at once commended itself to the cleanly and thrifty housewives of New Jersey. Now there is a well- known vine of the Cucumber family which flourishes in the "West Indies, and bears a gourd-like fruit, the spongy lining of whose tough shell is used by the simple islanders to brush their huts with when they have any, and for toilet and culinary cleansing as well. Mr. Harrison's descriptions of this vegetable may have been a trifle too eloquent, but surely a merciful magistrate would con- sider this nothing more than justifiable professional ex- aggeration. Any one who has been attacked by a roving tree agent, armed with a book full of colored lithographic plates of trees clad with rainbo\v-hued foliage, and decorated still further with fruit of marvelous shape and bulk, will understand chat Mr. Harrison is not a unique sinner, but simply a man who understands his business." This list of humbugs on horticultural subjects might be greatly extended, but perhaps enough has been said to put the intelligent and thoughtful reader on his guard in the future. THE FRUIT GARDEN. 281 PRUNING. 233 CHAPTER XL. PRUNING. THOUGH the chapter on pruning is placed at the com- mencement of that division of the work which treats upon fruits, the fact must not be lost sight of that prun- ing is often quite as necessary upon trees and shrubs cul- tivated for their flowers or foliage as upon those grown for their fruit. In pruning we cut away some portion of a tree, shrub, or other plant, for the benefit of that which remains ; and whether performed upon a branch fiix inches through, or upon a shoot so tender as to be cut by the thumb nail, the object is essentially the same. The operation, though very simple, is one which the amateur often fears to undertake ; and having no confi- dence in his own ability, he often employs some jobbing gardener, who has no fears on this or any other garden- ing matter. Pruning is done for various ends, and un- less one has a definite reason for doing it, he had better leave it undone. Many have an idea that pruning must, for some reason, be done every year, just as it used to be thought necessary for people to be bled every spring, whether well or ill. We prune to control the shape of a tree or shrub, and by directing the growth from one part to another, obtain a symmetrical form, especially in fruiu trees, where it is desirable that the weight of fruit be equally distributed. In some trees, where the fruit is borne only on the wood of the previous season, the bear- ing portions are each year removed further and further from the body of the tree. In such cases a shortening of the growth each year will cause the formation of a compact head instead of the loose straggling limbs that re- sult when this is omitted. We prune to renew the vigor of a plant. The inexperienced cannot understand how 234 GARDENING VOIl PLEASURE. cutting away a third, a half, or even more of a plant can improve it in vigor and fruitf illness, or abundance and size of flowers. Let us suppose that a stem which grew last year has twenty buds upon it. If this is allowed to take its own course in the spring, a few of the upper buds will push with great vigor, and form strong shoots ; while those below will make gradually weaker shoots, and for probably the lower third of the stem the buds will not start at all. In fruit trees, as a rule, the most vigorous growth is at the top. The buds there weie the last formed in the previous summer, are the most excit- able, and the soonest to grow the next spring, and getting the start of those below them, they draw the nourishment to themselves and starve the others. If, instead of allowing this stem to grow at will in this man- ner, it had been, before any of the buds started, cut back so as to leave only a few of the lower ones, those having an abundance of nutriment would push forth with great vigor and be nearly equal in size, while the flowers or fruit borne upon them would be greatly superior to those upon the unpruned stem. Any one can readily be con- vinced of the utility of pruning by taking two rose bushes of equal size, leaving one without any pruning to take care of itself, and each spring cutting the other back severely, pruning away one-third or one-half of the wood that was formed the previous season. The result at the end of two years will be very striking. No general rule can be given for pruning. The ama- teur should use his eyes, and notice the habit of growth of his trees and shrubs. He will find that many, like the Rose, produce their flowers upon the new wood of the present season, and that such plants are greatly bene- fited by cutting back more or less each spring. But there are other plants for which this treatment will not answer. If we examine a Horse-chestnut tree, or a Lilac bush, and many others, we shall find that the flowers PKUXIXG. 235 come from the large buds that were formed on the end of last season's growth, and to cut back such plants would be to remove all the flower buds. With shrubs of this kind, all that need be done is to thin out the branches where they are too crowded. These examples will warn the novice against indiscriminate pruning ; and unless, as he stands before his shrub or tree, knife in hand, he knows why he is to prune and how, let him put his knife in his pocket, and give the plant the benefit of the doubt. While, under the different fruits, we can give di- rections for the particular pruning required by each, the proper method of treating a miscellaneous collection of ornamental shrubs and trees can only be learned by observation. The term pruning is generally applied to the cutting away, in whole or in part, of the ripened wood; but much pruning may be done by the use of the thumb and finger. This is termed pinching, and is practised upon young slioots at the growing season, while they are yet soft. This most useful form of pruning allows us to control the form of a plant with the greatest ease, and is applied not only to soft-wooded plants, but to trees and shrubs, and may be so performed on these as to render nearly, if not quite, all pruning of ripened wood unnecessary. When soft-wooded plants, such as Chrysan- themums, Geraniums, or Coleus, are planted out or grown in pots, and left to themselves, most kinds will grow tall and straggling ; but if judiciously "pinched buck," as it is called (that is, the top of the strongest shoots pinched out), the plants can be shaped into a bushy, rounded form at will. If a vigorous shoot has its end or "grow- ing point" pinched out it will cease to elongate, but will throw out branches below, the growth of which may be controlled in the same manner. The Blackberry illus- trates the utility of this kind of pruning. The rampant growing shoot which springs up from the root will, if 236 GARDENING FOK PLEASURE. left to itself, make a long cane six or eight feet high, and with a very few branches near the top. If, when this shoot has reached four, or at most five feet, its end be pinched off, it will then throw our numerous branches ; and if the upper branches, when they reach the length of eighteen inches, be " stopped" (as it is called), in a sim- ilar manner, by pinching, the growth will be directed to the lower ones, and by the end of the season, instead of a long, unmanageable wand, there will be a well-branched bush, which will bear its fruit all within reach. The grower of plants in pots is usually afraid to remove even a single inch of the stem, and the result is usually a lot of "leggy" specimens not worth the care that is oth- erwise bestowed upon them. Plants may be prevented from ever reaching this condition, if their growth be properly controlled by pinching; but if they have once reached it, they should be cut back se- verely, and a compact, bushy form obtained from the new shoots which will soon start. I may state here, however, that if it becomes necessary to cut back a plant in full leaf, care must be taken to with- hold water until it again throws out shoots below, for the reason that, bein^ robbed of the foliage and shoots that elaborated the top, an excess of moisture given to the roots, which have now no work to do, will gorge and de- stroy them. The mechanical part of pruning is very simple. A sharp knife is the best implement, as it makes a clean cut without bruising the bark, and the wound quickly heals. Shears are much easier to handle, and the work Fig. 63. Fig. 67. Fig. 68. WHEKB TO CUT IN PRUNING. PRUNING. 237 can be done so much more quickly, that they are generally preferred, and for rampant growing bushes will answer ; but upon fruit trees, and choice plants generally, the knife is much better. The cut should be made just at a joint, but not so far above it as to leave a stub, as in figure 67, which will die back to the bud, there being nothing to contribute to its growth ; nor should it be made so close to the bud as to endanger it, as in figure 66. The cut should start just opposite the lower part of the bud and end just above its top, as in figure 68. For the removal of branches too large to cut witti the knife, as must some- times be done on neglected trees, a saw is required. Saws are made especially for the purpose, but any narrow one with the teeth set wide will answer. The rough cut left by the saw should be pared smooth, and if an inch or more in diameter, the wound should be cov- ered. Ordinary paint, melt- ed grafting wax, or shellac varnish will answer to pro- tect the bare wood from air and moisture, and prevent decay. In pruning it is well to remember that the future shape of the tree Fi^69' PR will be materially affected by the position upon the branch of the bud to which the cut is made. The upper bud left on the branch will con- tinue the growth, and the new shoot will be in the direc- tion of that bud. If a youiig tree is, as in figure 69, to have all its brandies shortened, and each is cut to a bud, A, pointing towards the center of the tree, the tendency of the new growth will all be inward, as in figure 70; while PRUNING FOE SHAPE. 238 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. if all be cut to an outside bud, B, the result will be to spread the growth, as in figure 71. As to the time of pruning, about which there has been much discussion, it may be done on small stems at any time after the fall of the leaf, before the growth starts in the spring ; but for the removal of large branches, late in winter is regarded as the best time. It is a popu- lar idea that trees should not be pruned in excessively cold weather. A very sensible belief, as affecting the comfort of the primer ; but rest assured, it in no way adds to the discomfort of the tree, either present or prospective. Pinching is, of course, done whenever it is needed during the summer months. CHAPTER XLI. HARDY GRAPES. GRAPES can be grown in almost any soil, provided it is not a wet one. Although the Grape will take abundance of water when in a growing state, it must pass off quickly, or the growth will be impeded. If the ground is not naturally suitable (i. e., at least a foot in depth of good soil), a border prepared in the manner recommended in the chapter on '•' Cold Grapery " will well repay the trouble. It is imperative that the position where the vine is planted be such as will enable it to get sunlight for the greater portion of the day. Twenty years ago I planted an arbor (with an arched top) one hundred feet long by sixteen feet wide and ten feet high, covering a walk running east and west. ' This gave a south and a north exposure. The crop has always been excellent and abundant (and is to-day) on the south side and top of the arbor, but on the north side (unless for the first and H^RDY GRAPES. 2u9 second years of fruiting, when- there was not sufficient loliage to impede the light) it has been nearly a failure. There is much misconception as to what should be the age of a grape-vine when planted. Nine-tenths of our amateur customers ask for vines three or four years old. If a vine of that age could be properly lifted with every root unbroken, then there might be some advantage in its greater strength ; but as vines are usually grown in the nurseries closely together, with the roots all inter- laced, large plants can rarely be got with roots enough to support the vine and maintain its vigor after trans- planting. As a rule, it is better to plant one or two- year-old vines, which can usually be bought at half the price of those of three or four years old, and which, in all probability, will give a crop quite as soon as the large ones, if not sooner. The manner of planting the vine is similar to that of any other tree or shrub. The ground must be thor- oughly broken up, not in a mere hole only sufficient to hold the roots, but, if a regular border has not been made, the place where each vine is to be planted should not be less than three feet in diameter (and if double that, all the better), and of a depth of not less than a foot. On receiving the vine from the nursery, it may con- sist of one or more shoots, but on planting it should be cut back to only two or three eyes or buds. On starting to grow, all of these buds or eyes should be rubbed off except one, selecting the strongest. Train this shoot perpendicularly to a stake the first year of its growth. The next fall, when the leaves drop, cut it back to nine or ten inches from the ground. When the vine starts the next spring, rub off all eyes or buds except two, which during the season will form two canes, as in figure 72. These, if they are canes half an inch in diameter, are in the fall to be pruned to three or four feet long, and the following spring trained horizontally, one to 240 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. the right, the other to the left. If, at the end of the second year, they are still small, it is better to delay laying down the arms until another year, and grow two upright shoots again, to get them sufficiently strong. These will form the base from which to start the upright shoots, as shown in figure 73. These upright growths will be the permanent fruiting canes, and should be from fifteen to eighteen inches apart, and pruned on what is known as the spur system, as shown by figure 74. There is nothing arbitrary as to the hight of these canes. It is I 72. — VINE WITH TWO SHOOTS. •f. 73. — VINE WITH ARMS. a matter of convenience or taste whether they be trained to three feet or fifteen feet. Vines thus treated may be allowed to produce a few bunches the third year, and by the sixth year maybe fruited to the hight of ten or twelve feet of cane, if desired. Not more than two bunches of fruit should be allowed to each shoot. We give this manner of training as one of the simplest, al- though the system of training has but little to do with the crop. My own Grape arbor planted twenty years HAEDY GRAPES. 241 ago. trained and pruned in this way, is still in excellent vigor, and looks as if it might remain so for twenty years longer. A top-dressing of rotted manure is placed on the border (nine feet wide on each side) every fall, and forked in in the spring. The same system of pruning and training is equally applicable to vines planted against fences or walls having an eastern or southern aspect. The distance apart at which grape-vines may be planted, except the Delaware and a few of the weaker growing sorts, is about eight feet. The Delaware may be set one-third closer if trained in the manner described ; but Fig. 74. — VINE SPUR-PKUNED. if planted in the open field, and trained to stakes and wires, as shown in figure 75, they may be planted, to begin with, at least three feet in the rows and six feet between. Although grape-vines are hardy in nearly all sections, yet in any locality where the thermometer falls to zero it is beneficial to lay them down close to the ground, and cover them up with rough litter, before the ap- proach of severe weather in winter, allowing it to remain on in spring until the buds begin to swell, when the vines are uncovered and tied up to the trellis or stake, If covered in this way they should be pruned before being laid down. Pruning may be done at any time from November to March. It is a common belief that grape-vines should be pruned only at certain seasons. The weather must not be too cold, otherwise it is sup- 242 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. posed they may be injured if then pruned. Again, they must not be pruned late in the spring, else the sap oozing from the cuts may bleed them to death. Let me say that both these notions are utter nonsense. The Fig. 75. — VIEW OF VINEYARD. pruning of any tree or vine in the coldest weather cannot possibly injure it, and the " bleeding " or running of the sap after any ordinary pruning can no more hurt the HAKDY GRAPES. 243 vine than the blood flowing from a pin scratch would weaken a healthy man. This method of covering up the grape-vine is not commonly practised, but we are satis- fied that in exposed positions it is well worth the trouble. I have practised it with vines now over twenty years old, embracing some twenty varieties. My soil is a stiff clay, very unsuitable for the Grape ; yet these vines have kept clear of mildew when my neigh- bor's vines, a few hundred yards off, have been seriously injured by it. I have long believed that intense cold, long continued, is hurtful to even such plants as we call hardy, and the wonderful vigor of these old vines, so treated, seems a good evidence of it. The litter used in covering (which has become well-rotted by spring) is spread over the border, acting both as a summer mulch and fertilizer. Mildew is the worst enemy to the vine. The same remedy we recommend in this book for mildew on Roses will be found equally efficacious for the Grape. On a large scale, dry sulphur is used, blown upon the vines by a bellows made for the purpose. Propagation of the Grape is done by nur- serymen in greenhouses similar to that used for propagating florists' plants ; but most of the varieties can be grown with fair success by cuttings in the open air. The cuttings (made from the young, well-ripened shoots of the pre- vious year's growth) may be made with two (figure 76) or three buds or eyes, planted in rows; say one foot apart and three inches be- tween the cuttings, and set so that the top eye or bud only is above ground. The situation where the cuttings are placed should be well CUTTING. exposed to the sun, the soil rich and deep, and of sandy or light character. Care must be taken that the cutting 244 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. is well firmed in the soil ; and if sawdust or some other non-conducting material is sifted over them (covering all up but the buds), success will be greater, as this will pre- vent the sun from baking and drying up the soil. The cuttings may be made from the prunings at any time during winter, and kept in a damp cellar or buried out- side in sand until planted in the cutting-bed in the spring. VARIETIES OF THE GRAPE. It is the most unsatisfactory part of works on gar- dening to name varieties. What are cultivated as the best to-day may ten years hence be entirely discarded. Moreover, what does well in one section may be less val- uable in another ; but lists must be given, and all we can do in the ma,tter is to name such as we believe to be the best for general use at the date at which we write. The varieties are named in the order that we deem most desirable for private use. Concord is perhaps more universally cultivated than any other. It grows most luxuriantly, bearing bunches of large size abundantly. Color black, with a rich blue bloom. The flavor is of average quality. Eipens during the month of September. Moore's Early. — Eesembles the Concord in general appearance, but ripens two or three weeks earlier. Per- haps the best early black grape for family use. Warden. — Color black. Bunches and berries of medi- um size. Very early, ripening the last of August. Of excellent quality. A most desirable variety. Delaware. — This is perhaps the richest in flavor of all hardy grapes, and quite equal to most of the foreign kinds. The bunches are small, however, though borne in great abundance, so that the weight of fruit on a given space is equal to most of the larger kinds. Color red. Medium early. HARDY GRAPES. I 246 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Brighton. — Color a rich copper red. Bunches large, and of excellent flavor. Eipens in September. One of the finest of red-colored grapes yet known. Niagara. — So far believed to be the best white grape for the table. It is medium early, ripening in September. In flavor it is considered equal to the best of the foreign grapes of the Chasselas class. A most abundant bearer. See engraving (figure 77), taken from a photograph two years after planting. Pocklington. — Bunches and berries of large size. Color greenish amber, occasionally tinged with pink. It is of medium earliness, and good quality, but having a foxy odor which is objectionable to some. Wilder. — One of the Eogers's Hybrids. Bunch medi- um, berries large, rich black. Flavor excellent. It ripens in September, and is unsurpassed in all good qualities. Agawam. — Color reddish bronze. Size of bunches and berries medium. Eipens in September. This is another of the Eogers's Hybrids, having a distinct and delicious flavor, similar to some of the hothouse grapes. Salem. — Color reddish bronze. Bunches and berries large. Eipens in September, and again, like all the Eogers's Hybrids, of excellent flavor. Martha. — A strong-growing white grape. Bunches and berries of medium size, borne in great profusion. It is medium early and very handsome in appearance. Merrimack. — Color deep black. Bunches and berries large. Late, ripening in October. One of the Eogers's Hybrids. Flavor excellent. The varieties named in this list have been selected with a view to have fruit in succession from August to October, and, besides, to have a selection of such -colors as will be most desirable when dished on the table, which, in the great variety of shades which we now have in this delicious fruit, makes a most beautiful or- nament. THE COLD GRAPERY. 247 CHAPTER XLII. THE COLD GRAPERY. I KNOW of no addition to a country home from which such a large amount of satisfaction can be obtained at so small an outlay as from a grapery for growing the differ- ent varieties of foreign grapes. It has been proved that none of these fine varieties can be cultivated with any satisfaction in any part of the Northern or even Middle States, except under glass. In California and some other states and territories west of the Mississippi, the varieties of the European Grape have been extensively grown in the open air. There the conditions of climate are such as to make their culture a success equal to that attained any where in Europe. Besides the luxury of the Grape as a table fruit, ^o finer sight can be seen, and there is nothing of which an amateur gardener may be more proud than a grapery in which the vines are loaded with ripe fruit. And as this can be obtained at a trifling Fig. 78. — GREENHOUSE OK GRAPEBT. -original outlay, and with but little attention in the culti- vation afterward, I will briefly describe how to do it. Our climate is particularly well adapted to the cultiva- tion of vines under glass without fire heat, and the won- der is that cold graperies are not in more general use, even by people of moderate means, than they at present are. We built one for our own use on the plan shown in figure 78, which is adapted, if desired, for a greenhouse 248 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. as well as for a grapery. The dimensions are fifty feet long by twenty-five feet wide. It is finished in very good style, and cost but little more than $1,000 without artificial heat. If heated by hot-water pipes, as shown in the interior view, it would cost about $500 more, or §1,500 complete, It was planted in June, and the third year from planting we cut upwards of 300 pounds of fruit from it. The next season it yielded nearly double that quantity. The build- ing was begun by setting locust posts four feet apart. On these was framed the sill, on the front of which were placed upright sashes two and a half feet in hight, and on these the gutter. From the gutter was sprung the bars, ten inches apart each way, running on the west side clear to the ridge pole ; on the east framed to within two feet of it, so as to give room for lifting sashes. These were two feet wide by six feet long. To these sashes, eight in number, were attached the patent ventilating apparatus, which, by turning a crank, opens these sashes from one to twenty-four inches, as desired. The front sashes may be made so that every alternate one can open outward. With the instructions given in the chapters on Greenhouse Structures, any intelligent mechanic should be able to build from this plan, though, whenever green- houses or graperies are to be erected on a large scale, it will always be found to be the cheapest and most satisfac- tory plan to have it done by a regular greenhouse archi- tect. If there is no city or hydrant water, provision should be made by building a cistern inside the grapery, say four feet deep by eight feet in diameter, or of that capacity in an oblong shape would be better. This cistern can be supplied by water from the roof, having a waste pipe for overflow. These general directions for such a structure as is shown in the cut, figure 78, are equally applicable for almost any size or kind of grapery. Many are built in the form of a "lean to ;" that is, placed against any building or fence, using such for the back wall of the THE COLD GRAPERY. 249 grapery. This would necessitate only the low front wall, which need not be more than one foot from the ground, if the width is but ten or twelve feet ; but a path would require to be sunk inside to give room to stand upright. The sketch, figure 79, shows an outline of a "lean-to" grapery twenty feet wide, nine feet high at back, and two feet in front. Such a structure (exclusive of the " border") may be put up roughly at a cost not exceed- ing four dollars per running foot, without heating ap- Fig. 79. — LEAN-TO GRAPERY. paratus. Its aspect may be any point from east to southwest, though if due south all the better. I recollect that some twenty years ago a German jeweler in Jersey City, N. J., grew a splendid crop of Black Hamburghs on vines which had been planted against the rear fence of his city lot, by placing against the fence some old sashes eight feet long. It was rather a bung- ling sort of an arrangement and awkward to get at, but it served the purpose of ripening the Hamburgh grapes, which could not have been done without the glass. The border of the grapery we have in use was begun by excavating the natural soil to the depth of twenty inches and fifteen feet in width, for the length of the grapery on each side. The inside was left untouched, 250 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. the borders being entirely outside. The bottom of the excavation was graded from the front of the building to the outside of the borders, with a fall of about an inch to a foot, so that thorough and rapid drainage would be sure to be attained. At the extremity of each border a drain was built to carry off the water. The whole bot- tom was then cemented over so as to prevent the roots from penetrating the subsoil. This pit was then filled to the depth of about two feet (four inches being allowed for settling) with a compost which was previously pre- pared by mixing about three parts of turf taken from the surface of a rather shaly pasture, one part of rotten stable manure, and one part of lime rubbish. In addi- tion, about one-twentieth part of rough or broken bone was added. It is one of the popular errors that vines for graperies should be two or three years old. The age of a vine usually has but little to do with its size, and if grape- vines are properly grown the first year from cuttings, they will be quite as good for planting as if two or three years old. In fact, it is a question whether a vine grown from a cutting in March, and planted in June, is not quite as good as one a year older. Our experience has shown that there is hardly a perceptible difference in the two at the end of the season. As such vines, however, are too tender to be shipped far, we generally recommend buying one year old vines that may be planted in April, May, or June, having ripened shoots about three feet in length. These vines are all grown in pots the previous season, and when received the soil should be shaken off entirely, and the roots spread out in the border without injuring them. The root, it will be understood, is planted outside in the border, and the shoot taken inside, through an opening in the walls, which may be made of brick, stone, or wood, and should be left open at every three feet, the distance at which the vines should be THE COLD GRAPERY. 251 planted. If the wall is of wood, it can easily be cut to suit the size of the vine. The plants we used were strong one-year-old vines, and were set about June 1st. By October they had grown to over twenty feet in length. In November they were cut back to the bottom of the rafter, or about three feet from the ground, and quickly reached the top again the second year, with firm, well- ripened wood. In November following they were again pruned back to about five feet above the foot of the rafter, or eight feet from the ground. These shoots produced the 300 pounds of fruit referred to (the third year from the time of planting). The fourth year they reached the top of the rafter, when a much larger crop was taken. The varieties used were nine-tenths Black Ham- burgh, with a few Muscats and Frontignans, all of which have done exceedingly well, and have now been in bearing nearly twenty years. Since they have been in full bearing, which was five years from the time of planting, they have averaged, one year with another, 1250 pounds of splendid grapes, or about one pound for every square foot of base surface. Every December we lay the vines down along the front tvall after being pruned, covering them completely with soil until May, when they are taken up and tied to the wires, which are one-sixteenth inch galvanized iron, and run across the rafters fifteen inches apart and fifteen inches from the glass. The training followed is what is called the "spur" system, which is simply to allow one cane or shoot to each rafter (or three feet apart), and pruning the side shoots or " bearing wood'' annually back to one eye, which is the same plan advised for hardy grapes. In the summer treatment of the cold grapery, the prin- ciple must never be lost sight of, that to keep the vines in perfect health, a temperature of not less than seventy degrees at night, with ten or fifteen degrees higher dur- ing the day, is always necessary. Any rapid variation 252 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. downward is certain to result in mildew. The floor of the grapery should be kept dashed with water at all times, unless in damp weather, from the time the buds start in May until the fruit begins to ripen in September, except during the period the vines are in flower, when it should be dispensed with until the fruit is set. If the weather is dry, copious watering is nece'ssary for the border outside. The summer pruning consists simply in pinching off the laterals, or side shoots which start from where the leaf joins the stem, to one leaf. Every winter four inches of the best well-rotted stable manure is spread over the border, and over that six inches of leaves or litter. This is raked off in spring, and the manure forked in, the object being to feed the roots from the top of the border. This same treatment we give our hardy grapes with excellent results. I am a good deal of a utilitarian, and am very apt to make even my luxuries "pay" when it is practicable to do so ; and though I would hardly think of selling my grapes that have been grown for private use, yet I do not scruple to make the glass that shelters them do double duty by using it in winter to shelter our half-hardy Roses from November to May. Those that do not make rose- growing a business, as I do, can nevertheless profit by my example, and use the cold grapery for many purposes during the winter months when it is not needed for the grape- vines. Besides Roses, all plants of a half-hardy char- acter may be kept there, such as Pomegranates, Oranges, Figs, Crape Myrtles, Pampas Grass, Tritomas, Carnations, etc., care being taken that the pots or tubs in which they are planted are plunged in leaves, tan, or some such sub- stance, so that the roots do not freeze. The cold grapery makes an excellent poultry house in winter, only, if put to that use, care must be taken that the buried vines are secure against the scratching of the hens. In some sec- tions grape-vines are often attacked, when thus buried, THE HOTHOUSE OR FORCING GRAPERY. 253 by ground mice, which gnaw the bark, sometimes so as to completely destroy them. As a precaution, it is well to wrap the vines with hay, straw, or cotton batting, over which sprinkle a mixture of twenty parts flour to one of Paris green. This will poison the mice if they cut through the covering to get at the bark. Be careful not to use any greater proportion of Paris green than advised, as too much of it might injure the vines ; or the labor of wrapping the vines may be dispensed with by poisoning the vermin in the ordinary way. CHAPTER XLIII. THE HOTHOUSE OR FORCING GRAPERY. WHEN grapes are forced by artificial heat, probably the best plan is that of the " lean-to " structure shown by the illustrations, figures 80, 81, and 82. Figure 80 gives the plan, which, as in some former engravings, it is not practicable to show on the page at full length ; and it is accordingly "broken," a portion, as shown by the irregular lines, being taken out of each compartment. The figures give the proper proportions. Figure 8t is a part of the front elevation, and figure 82 a section at the division between the two houses. The house is one hundred feet long by sixteen feet wide, divided into two compartments for early and late forcing, each fifty by sixteen feet, and both heated by one boiler, with valves in the furnace pit to shut off and taps to draAv the water from the pipes not in use, a matter to be looked to when vineries are not in use ; for if the water is not drawn out of the pipes it may freeze and break them. When grapes are to be forced, it is essential that a sufficient covering of manure or leaves be placed on the border to prevent frost from 254 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Fig. 80.— PLAN OF FORCING GRAPERY, THE HOTHOUSE OR FORCING GRAPERY. 255 reaching the roots, as to apply heat to the vines inside while the roots are frozen would seriously injure them. For very early forcing, when the vines are started as \ ]fete$£g&^tetste3z£&^^ 1 i , « 1 * Jl < \[\\ i > !||( i IILL. 1 1 -.liLJ ' J||LL_U||LL_U i Fig. 81. — ELEVATION OF FRONT OP FORCING GRAPEBT (IN PABl). Fig. 82. — SECTION OF FORCING GRAPERY. early as January, it is usual not only to put on covering enough to secure from frost, but also to slightly ferment, BO as to throw some warmth into the border. No matter 256 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. at what season the grapery is started for forcing, the temperature should not run over fifty or fifty-five degrees at night, with a day temperature of ten or fifteen degrees higher, increasing ten degrees when the buds have opened, which will be in four or five weeks from the time of starting. In five or six weeks the fruit will be set, and the temperature is to be raised ten degrees more. In forcing, moisture is of equal importance with heat ; for if this is not attended to, you may expect red spiders and thrips, and then all your labor may be in vain. To keep up this moisture, tanks are usually placed on the hot- water pipes for graperies, and these are kept filled with water, keeping up a continued evaporation, except at the time the vines are in flower. It should then be discontinued until the fruit is set. "When there is no such arrangement for evaporation, dash water over the floors and use the syringe. To secure fine berries and bunches, one- half of the berries should be thinned out when of the size of peas, using scissors made for this purpose. The rules for making the border, pruning, training, and general culture are the same for the forcing grapery as for the cold grapery. CHAPTER XLIV. THE STRAWBERRY. OF all small fruits, none stand so high in general favor as the Strawberry. Its culture is simple ; and as it grows freely in almost any soil, adapting itself to the climate of the extreme South as well as to our most Northern States, no garden of any pretensions should be without it. If a choice of soil can be had, nothing is so suitable as a deep, rich, but rather sandy loam, though it will yield returns sufficient to warrant its cultivation on THE STRAWBERRY. 257 any soil, from almost pure sand to clay, provided it is drained naturally or artificially. In all soils, deep spad- ing or plowing is essential to the production of fine crops ; and this should not be less than a foot, and if eighteen inches, all the better. A coat of thoroughly rotted stable manure, at least three inches in thickness, should be dug in and well mixed with the soil to a depth of six or nine inches. In the absence of stable manure, any of the concentrated fertilizers mentioned in Chapter VI., "How to Use Concentrated Fertilizers," used in the manner and quantities there described, will do as a substitute. Where muck from the swamps or leaf mold from the woods can be obtained, twenty bushels of either of these mixed with one bushel of ashes will make an ex- cellent fertilizer for Strawberries, and may be spread on as thickly as stable manure, and on sandy soils is prob- ably better. Strawberries may be planted either in the fall or spring. If the plants are to be set in the fall, it should not be done, in this latitude, if it can be avoided, before the middle of September. This, of course, refers to the plants from runners taken up from the bed in the usual manner ; and there is nothing gained in time over plant- ing the next spring, as the plant must grow for one sea- son before it can bear a full crop of fruit. In private gardens it is much better to have the plants layered in pots, as they may then be set at almost any time. These pots may be from two to three inches in diameter. When a lot of Strawberry plants are wanted for a new bed, all that is necessary to do is to fill these small pots with soil, and "plunge" or plant the pot just to the surface level, placing the unrooted "runner" of the Strawberry plant on the top of the soil in the iiower pot, and laying a small stone or clod on it to keep it in place. This method of striking in pots is shown in figure 83. The runners so treated will form plants in two or three weeks, 258 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. and may be planted out with safety any time from August to October. If Strawberry plants, treated in this way, are planted in August, and care taken that all runners that come from them be cut off as soon as formed, so that the whole force of the root is thrown into the main crown, a full crop of berries will be gathered the season following, or in nine or ten montns from the time of planting. We have practised this sys- tem of layering Strawberry plants in pots, for what we Fig. 83. — STRIKING STRAWBERRIES IN POTS. need for our own use, for the past twenty years, and the results have been so successful that we have many con- verts to the system, not only among those who grow for their own private use, but many who grow this fruit for market now use no other method. Plants grown in this manner can be obtained from the nurseries, but the nec- essary labor and the expense of the pots make the price five times more than that of ordinary plants rooted in the usual way and known as "ground layers." THE STRAWBERRY. 259 When Strawberry plants are set out in the fall, unless under favorable circumstances, many will fail to grow, for the reason that each young plant or runner is sus- tained in part by the old plant, and when detached, feels the shock more than a rooted cutting or seedlmg plant does, that has been growing for weeks on its own ac- count. For that reason we have always advised all that were intending to plant fresh Strawberry beds, to prepare their plants a few weeks ahead by layering them in pots. Two to four hundred plants are all that an ordinary family will need, and two or three hours' work would be all the time required to layer the plants in the pots. One hundred plants so prepared will give more fruit the first season than a thousand planted in the usual way, and the plant forms a clump quicker, and much less time is expended in keeping them clean. The use of layered plants is recommended specially for summer and fall planting. The plants may be obtained, by this plan of layering, as early as July, and the sooner they are set out the greater will be the crop of fruit the next season, al- though if, for any reason, the layered plants cannot be obtained to plant before September, they will even then produce a fair crop of fruit. Our own planting is usually done by the first week in August, and we rarely obtain less than a pint from each plant. In spring the use of potted plants would have no spe- cial advantage, as, if planted in April or May, they would have all the summer to grow, but, of course, little fruit can be expected the season of planting. For this reason, it will be seen that, to secure a crop quickly, the time to plant is in July, August, or September, and from plants that have been layered in pots. There is no arbitrary rule for the distance apart at which Strawberry plants should be set; but if the ground has been prepared as ad- vised, the finest fruit will be had by giving them plenty of room. For our own use we usuallv set four hundred S60 'GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. plants annually in August, at two feet apart between the TOWS, and eighteen inches between the plants, and gather ftbout two hundred quarts of splendid fruit. If the ground is limited they may be planted at half the above distances, particularly if set late in fall. There is no plant cultivated where the necessity for keeping the ground clean is so imperative as it is for Strawberries. It never can be made profitable under slipshod culture, for, from the nature of the plant, it cannot defend itself against weeds, and if neglected will quickly get over- whelmed and destroyed. Thousands of acres of Straw- berries are planted annually, which, from the Avant of prompt work at the proper time, are allowed to be de- stroyed by weeds. At a small cost in labor, at the proper time, such crops might havo paid a handsome profit. There is one very important point in Strawberry cul- ture that should never be neglected ; and that is, that the beds be entirely covered with hay, straw, or leaves, to the depth of three or four inches. This covering should not be put on, however, before the approach of se- vere weather, which, in this latitude, is about the middle of December. This covering should not be taken off in spring. It is only necessary to go over the beds as soon as growth begins, and pull the covering back from the plants just sufficient to expose the crown, allowing all to remain on the bed. This covering serves several purposes. It keeps the roots warm until the plants start to grow; it keeps the fruit clean when ripe ; it prevents the growth of weeds, and, finally, acts as a mulch to keep the soil from drying in hot weather. Although Strawberry beds will remain in bearing for a number of years, the fruit is always largest and finest the first season of bearing, gradually getting smaller as the plants get older ; hence it is desirable to provide for a suc- cession, if not every year, at least every second year. For THE STRAWBERRY. 261 garden culture in this, as in all other fruits, it is unwise to use any but fully tested varieties, five or six of which are sufficient. Here, again, as in almost every other fruit or flower, the advance in excellence compels us to name a different set every few years ; so that, of the kinds ad- vised in the last edition of this book written in 1875, not one can be named in 1887; and it may be that in another decade these too will have been superseded by others more desirable. VARIETIES OF THE STRAWBERRY. There are hardly two sections of the country, one hun- dred miles apart, where the same varieties of Strawberries Fig. 84.— THE HENBEKSON STRAWBERRY. are grown. We can only offer those grown in the vicinity of New York as our standard. The Henderson (figure 84). This new Strawberry originated with Mr. George Seymour, South Norwalk, 2G3 GARDENING FOll PLEASURE. Conn., in 1883, who named it in honor of the author of this work. It is doubtful if there is another Straw- berry in cultivation having such a combination of good qualities as the Henderson. The fruit is of the largest size, rich, glossy crimson in color, looking as if varnished, early, and exceedingly productive ; but its ex- celling merit is its exquisite flavor and aroma. Whether for family or market use, the Henderson is almost certain to become a standard sort, particularly on light soils. It seems not to be so well adapted to heavy soils. iGT. 85. — CRIMSON CLUSTER STRAWBERRY. It is a perfect- flowered variety, and, therefore, never fails to set its fruit. Crimson Cluster (figure 85). On the 10th of June, 1886, I examined this Strawberry on the grounds of the raiser, Mr. E. W. Durand, and found 3,000 plants that had been planted on the 15th of August, 1885, which, in less than ten months from the date of planting, were producing a crop that would average fully a quart to each plant ; 3,000 quarts from the 3,000 plants, or at the rate of over 20,000 quarts per acre. The crop was so immense, and the size of the berries so large, that the THE STRAWBERRY. 263 pickers, who were paid two cents per quart, averaged twenty-five quarts per hour, or five dollars per day ; a fact beyond question, and which could be attested by a dozen affidavits. At the first picking, every yard of row yielded a quart of fruit. When to this extraordinary production we add the further facts, that this Strawberry is of the richest crimson color, borne in immense clusters (hence the name), and that it is one of the earliest as well as the latest — as its great vigor prolongs its season Fig. 83.— JERSEY QUEEN STRAWBERRY. of fruiting — combined with its excellent quality, there is svery reason to think that it is bound to be the most valuable Strawberry ever raised by Mr. Durand. On the 10th of July, one month after my first exami- nation, seventy quarts of splendid fruit were gathered from the 3,000'pknts above referred to ; and furthermore, to show that it still kept on fruiting, Mr. Durand sent me a large cluster of berries in all stages of development on the 30th of July ; something entirely unknown in a 264 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Strawberry that had already given an immense early crop. Mr. Durand says that the Crimson Cluster is so completely a pistillate variety that the stamens can hardly be seen, yet, he further says, it may be planted five miles away from any other Strawberry and never fail to produce enormous crops. He adds that he has grown it in frames under glass in early spring, where it could Fig. 87.— SHARPLESS STRAWBERRY. not possibly be impregnated with any other variety, with the same results — an abundant crop. He thinks that this fact, to a great extent, upsets the very prevalent notion that perfect stamens and pistils on the same plant are necessary to produce a crop of fruit. Without having personally given the matter much atten- tion, I have long believed, from general observation, that there was more importance given to the necessity for THE STRAWBERRY. 265 "perfect flowers," as they are called, in Strawberries than results warranted. From its free fruiting qualities I am inclined to believe that the Crimson Cluster will prove to be a grand forcing Strawberry. Jersey Queen (figure 86). This variety was sold for the first lime in the fall of 1881, and is, perhaps, one of the very best late Strawberries thus far introduced. The size is immense, often measuring six inches in cir- cumference. Shape, roundish conical ; color, a beautiful Fig. 88.— THE JEWELL STRAWBERRY. scarlet crimson ; perfectly solid, and of excellent flavor. It is an enormous bearer, many plants averaging a quart of first quality fruit. It is one of the latest Strawberries, the crop in this vicinity being in perfection about the 25th of June, while the average crop of Strawberries is at its best by the loth of June. For this reason it is found to be one of the best kinds to grow at the summer hotels in the North. Sliarpless (figure 87). With the exception of Jersey Queen and Crimson Cluster, the largest and one of the 266 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Jieaviest oerries of this collection. It is of fine flavor, a good bearer, and has now become a standard sort. Parry. — One of the earliest large berries, of great beauty, excellent quality, prolific, and one of the very hardiest and strongest growers. , Jewell (figure 88). A comparatively new variety, orig- inated in 1880. It is of the largest size, perfect form, color bright red changing to crimson, of medium earli- ness ; an enormous cropper, sometimes reaching four hundred bushels per acre. Tiie Hoffman. — This is now the most popular berry for the Southern States. It is of medium size, average flavor, but a most abundant bearer and strong grower, and, above all, has the requisite solidity or firmness essential for distant carriage. FORCING STRAWBERRIES. The three-quarter span greenhouses (already described and illustrated in the chapter on Greenhouse Structures), or the lean-to style, as advised for forcing graperies, are equally adapted, with slight modification, for the forcing of Strawberries. This modification is in having the benches or tables raised, so as to be as near the glass as it is practicable to have them, as shown by the sketch (fig- ure 89) of end section annexed. The proper preparation of the plants for Strawberry forcing is indispensable to success. This is best done by layering the runners in small pots, as described under the head of " Strawberry Cul- ture. " The layers may be placed in the pots at any time from the middle of July to September 1st. When the pot is filled with roots (which will be in about two or three weeks from the time the Strawberry runner is placed in it), it is taken up and shifted into a four-inch pot in soil four-fifths turfy loam to one-fifth rotted cow dung, to which may be added a slight sprinkling of pure bone dust— say a handful to every bushel of soil. THE STKAAVBERBY. 267 When the Strawberry plants have been shifted from the pots in which they were 'layered into the four-inch size, they should be set in the open sunshine, standing the pots close together, and carefully watered as occasion requires, so as to induce the best possible growth. All runners should be carefully pinched off as they appear, so that the whole force of the roots may go to develop the main plant, or fruiting crown, as it is sometimes called. In four or five weeks the four-inch pots will be Tig. 89.— STRAWBERRY FORCING HOUSE. filled with roots, and the plants must again be shifted into six-inch pots and treated as before, which will give, by the middle of October, the necessary strong plants for forcing. As the season of growth stops about this date, water should be withheld to some extent, so that the plants may get a season of rest. When they are placed in the forcing-house they may either be planted out on the benches at six or eight inches apart, in soil five or six inches deep, or they may be forced in the pots, as may be desired ; but, in any case, twice as many plants should be prepared as will fill the 268 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. house, for, if desired, two crops can easily be raised in succession. The first plants should be placed in the forcing-house about November loth. These will produce ripe fruit by January or February. Plants put in in February will be ready by March or April. Of coursep it will be necessary to keep the reserve plants of Straw< berries in a dormant state, which is best done in cold frames or pits, or even in a light or cold cellar, the pots being plunged up to the rims in dry leaves. Tho best rule to follow in forcing any plant is to keep as near as possible to its natural condition. "We know that, as the Strawberry plant develops its leaves and flowers throughout May in this latitude in the open ground, the night temperature will average, perhaps, forty degrees for the first two weeks in May and fifty degrees for the last weeks, while for the first two weeks in June it will be about sixty degrees at night, and in all cases from ten to fifteen degrees higher in the day. This, then, is our rule for the forcing houses : Start slowly, increasing the temperature as the plant develops and ripens its fruit, just as Nature does in the field. Like Cucumbers, artificial impregnation is necessary for the Strawberry in the dull winter months. This is best done by using a camel's hair pencil, twirling it from one flower to another (particularly from the perfect to the pistillate flowers, if such varieties are forced) on clear days, and allowing all possible ventilation. Sometimes hives of bees are kept in Strawberry and Cucumber forcing houses, to assist in the impregnation. Seme judgment is necessary in watering until there are indications of vigorous growth. Water at the roots spar- ingly; but, at the same time, do not allow the soil to get too dry, and be careful not to water the plants overhead when in bloom, as that will check the impregnation. When the fruit has " set," give water freely whenever necessary, and throughout the whole season of growth THE STRAWBERRY. 269 keep the atmosphere of the house well charged with moisture, in order to keep down the Red Spider, the in- sect which is quickly destructive to both Strawberries and Cucumbers. The kinds of Strawberries which seem to have been the favorites for forcing are the Champion, a rather dark crimson berry of great beauty and of the largest size, with occasional trials of Jersey Queen, on account of the great size and beauty of the fruit. But the new variety Crimson Cluster, from trials made with it, is likely to prove the most valuable variety for forcing purposes. It is of the largest size, of beautiful form ; color, a rich shade of scarlet crimson, the surface looking as if var- nished. These peculiarities make it specially attractive, a necessity for forced Strawberries when retailed at about fifty cents a berry; for in the winter months, it must bo remembered, they sell at wholesale at six dollars per quart, and it takes only eighteen to twenty large berries to make a quart. To our rural readers this extraordinary price paid for fruit may seem incredible ; but all large cities contain people who are rich enough to afford these prices, not only for fruits, but for flowers, for it is no unusual thing for one dollar and even two dollars to be paid for single rosebuds of the rarer or finer sorts. At the same date that forced Strawberries are selling in New York at six dollars per quart, or forced Cucumbers at six dollars per dozen, both Strawberries and Cucumbers grown in the Southern States are selling at one-sixth these prices ; but the quality, of course, bears no comparison with the forced commodities. Besides its value as a fruit, as a beautiful feature in the forcing house nothing exceeds the Strawberry when fully ripe. A few dozen plants will fill the house with their delightful aroma. 270 GARDENING FOP. PLEASUEE. EASPBEERY. To have the Raspberry in perfection, the same prepara- tion of soil is necessary as for the Strawberry, only that, while, for the best results, the Strawberry bed must be perfectly clear of shade, the Easpberries will do very well in a little shade ; that is, in such a situation as will allow them one half or so of the sunlight. The canes or shoots of the Raspberry are biennial; that is, the cane or shoot that is formed one season bears fruit the next season, and dies off after fruiting, giving place to the young cane that is to fruit the following season, and so on. The distances apart to plant the Raspberry for garden culture may be, if in rows, four feet apart, with the plants two feet apart in the row; or, if in separate stools or hills, they may be set three feet each way; or, planted at distances of four feet apart, three plants may be put in each " hill," which will sooner secure a crop. They may be set either in fall or in spring. If in the fall, a covering of four or five inches of dry leaves or litter should be spread over the roots to prevent them from getting too much frozen. Even when the plants are established and growing, it is neces- sary, in many cold sections, to bend down the canes and cover them with pine branches or some covering that will shield them from severe freezing. On a large scale the canes are bent down and covered with a few inches of earth, an operation that may be rapidly performed by two persons. One bends down the canes (using a pitchfork or other implement), as shown in the accompanying dia- gram (figure 90), while the other throws sufficient earth near the tips to hold the canes in place. After a row is thus bent over, the two go back and cover with earth more completely. All the pruning that is necessary for the Raspberry is to thin out the shoots in each hill to four or six. This is best done in the summer after the fruit is gathered, RASPBERRY. 271 and at the same time the old canes that have borne the fruit should be cut out, so that the young shoots, coming forward to do duty next season,, may have room to Fig. 90.— LAYING DOWN RASPBERRY CANES. grow freely, and develop and ripen the wood. On rich soils these shoots are very vigorous, and, if left to grow unchecked, would reach seven to eight feet in hight; but it is best to pinch out the tops of the young shoots when Fig. 91.— TRAINING RASPBERRIES TO A WIRE. about six feet high. This makes the shoots stouter, be- sides keeping the plant at a convenient hight to pick the fruit. When the leaves drop in fall, the canes may be 272 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. shortened down a foot or so, which will complete the pruning process. To get the full benefit of all the fruit, it is very neces- sary to stake the Raspberry. This may be done either by tying the canes of each plant separately to a stout stake, driven two feet or so into the ground, or, if grown in rows, they may be tied to wires running along the rows. The RASPBERRY. 273 wires should be stretched between two stout posts, one at each end of the row, and three feei, more or less, above the ground, according to variety. To prevent the wire from sagging, stakes should be driven into the ground directly under it, at intervals of six or ten feet. The wire is attached to these by means of staples placed over it and driven into the ends of the stakes. The diagram (figure 91) shows the method of training to the wire. The longer canes at the right and left are the canes which are to fruit the current year. These are tied out as there shown, while the new shoots, which are to furnish canes for the next year's fruiting, grow up in the center, and as soon as tall enough are tied to the wire. After the outer canes have fruited, they are cut away to give the others more room. The varieties are very numerous. Those named below are such as will be most satisfactory for private use in this section of the country. From one hundred to two hundred hills or plants, of all varieties, will usually be sufficient for most families. Hansell. — One of the earliest of all the Ked Raspberries. It is of large size, beautiful in appearance, and has a rich, spicy flavor. Color a bright crimson. It is one of the hardiest varieties, and has for the past five years been considered one of the best for either family or market use. (Figure 92. ) Cuthbert. — Somewhat larger than the Hansell. Color dark crimson; flavor sprightly and delicious. Comes in in succession to the Hansell. Golden Queen. — Found growing in a field of the Cuth- bert Raspberry, and is, in all probability, a " sport," as it is technically called, from that variety. The berry is of the largest size. The color is a deep orange yellow, and, like all the yellow kinds, is richer in flavor than 274 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. the reds, and far surpassing them in our opinion. Be- sides, the rich orange yellow color makes it a beautiful Fig. 93. — GOLDEN QUEEN RASPBERRY. table ornament when placed alongside of the red and black varieties. (Figure 93.) THIMBLEBEKRY. 275 THIMBLEBERRY OR BLACK CAP RASPBERRIES Eavo become very popular of late years, many persons preferring their peculiar flavor to that of the red or yel- low.. They belong to a distinct species of Raspberry. The plants make no suckers, but propagate themselves by taking root at the ends of the long branches, which in the fall, if allowed to grow at will, bend over and reach the earth. They throw up shoots from the base of the plant, which take the place of those which have already borne a crop. In gardens, where there is no desire to Fig. 94.— GKEGG THIMBLEBEKRY. propagate the plants, the growing shoots should be pinched off when they get three or four feet high, and any side shoots they may throw off are stopped by pinching when they are about eighteen inches long. The bearing wood is thinned out after the fruit is off. They are of the easiest culture, and even on light sandy or gravelly soils good crops can be raised. They should be planted about four feet apart each way, or five feet between 276 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. rows and two feet between the plants, for garden culture. The Black Cap is the only Raspberry suitable for drying, and for that purpose it is now largely grown. Gregg. — This is now grown to nearly the exclusion of all other kinds of Black Caps. It is of the largest size, excellent flavor, and enormously productive. The cut (figure 94) shows a few berries of natural size. Erhart Everbearing. — This is also an excellent variety, nearly equal to the Gregg, with the property of bearing three crops during the season, the last crop being late in the fall. BLACKBERRY. The cultivation of the Blackberry is nearly similar to that of the Easpberry, except that it should be planted about one-third farther apart, and being hardier, there is no need for covering it in winter in this latitude. As it has a more vigorous growth, it is sometimes set in any out-of-the-way corner, and in almost any soil ; but it will amply repay generous cultivation with finer fruit. The manner of growth is the same as the Raspberry ; and when the fruit is picked, the old canes are to be cut out to give the new ones a chance. The new shoots grow vigorously, and when they reach the hight of five, or, at most, six feet, they should be stopped by -pinching. This will cause an abundance of side shoots to start, which are to be pinched when about eighteen inches long. This treatment increases the productiveness of the plants and keeps the fruit within reach. The bushes should be kept tied to stout stakes or wires, as advised for the Raspberry. The following are a few of the popular kinds: Early Harvest. — This is not only a first-class Black- berry in every respect, but its great merit is earliness, coming right in to succeed the Strawberries, beginning in this section to ripen the first wqek in July, and per- BLACKBERRY. 277 fecting its entire crop before other kinds have ripened. It is enormously productive, a quart of fine fruit being easily picked from a single shoot. (Figure 95.) Wilson, Jr. — This comparatively new variety combines all the good qualities of the old Wilson Blackberry, and exceeds it in being of a more vigorous and healthy growth, and, like the' Early Harvest, produces immense 278 GARDENIXG FOR PLEASURE. Kg. 96.— THE WILSON, JUNIOR, BLACKBEBBY. BLACKBERRY. 279 quantities of fruit of the finest quality. As will be seen by the illustration (figure 96), the fruit is of the largest size. Color, deep glossy black. Wachusetts Thornless. — A strong growing variety, al- most destitute of spines, which makes it, for that reason, much prized for the private garden. It is a late variety, beginning to ripen in midsummer, and continuing for a long time in bearing. Of unsurpassed flavor. Fig. 97.— LUCRETIA DEWBERRY. Lucretia. — This belongs to the class of Blackberries known as Dewberries. They are of trailing habit, doing nicely along the foot of old walls or waste places, creep- ing in the grass. Of course, if given garden culture, which might be similar to that for Strawberries, the fruit will be finer. It is an interesting variety, and well worthy of a place in every garden. (Figure 97.) 280 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Crystal White. — This seems, as Mr. Lovett says, "a veritable albino," a white Black- berry, a novelty as rare as a white crow or a white blackbird among birds. It is of clear, translucent white, very sweet and pleasant in flavor. Well worthy, from its novelty, of a place in the fruit garden. It is less hardy than the black kinds, requiring the same protection as raspberries (tig. 98). Fig. 98.— CRYSTAL WHITE. CURRANTS. The Currant is useful both for dessert and for preserv- ing purposes. An immense weight of fruit is obtained for the space it occupies, and the ease of its culture makes it common in every garden. The red and white varieties may be planted three or four feet apart each way, the black at four or five feet apart. Pruning is done in the fall by cutting off about a third of the young growth of the previous summer, and thinning out old shoots when the plants get too thick. All are trained in low bush form, the whites and reds usually from three to four feet high and wide, and the black four to six feet. They can also be grown trained against fences or walls like grape vines, and will, in such positions, attain eight or ten feet in hight in five or six years from the time of planting, if the soil is deep and rich. Grown in this way, if care is taken in training, the fruit is larger, and when ripe, particularly if the black, white, and red varieties are placed in contrast, they form very attractive orna- ments for the garden. In many places, where the area for garden operations is limited, they can easily be trained against the fences. An insect known as the currant worm is often very de- CURRANTS. 281 Fig. 99.— PAT'S PROLIFIC. Fig. 100.— BLACK CHAMPION. ?,82 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. strujtivc. On its first appearance, if confined to a few leaves, these should be cut off, shoot and all, and de- stroyed. If they threaten to be troublesome, powdered White Hellebore or Persian Insect Powder, either dusted on or mixed four ounces to a pailful of water and applied with a syringe, will destroy them at once. Of course these poisonous remedies can only be used before the fruit is ripe. Fay's Prolific. — Color reddish amber; berries and bunch large; flavor excellent. Au abundant bearer, and a most beautiful and desirable fruit for dessert. (Figure 99.) Black Naples. — This is the favorite black variety, and is used almost exclusively for jams and jellies. The black varieties are much less grown here than in Europe, but the taste for them is increasing. Blade Champion. — An improved variety of Black Cur- rant, with dense clusters, very prolific, and decidedly superior in flavor to the preceding. The bunches, how- ever, are hardly so large. (Figure 100.) IV /lite Grape. — Berries large, of a yellowish-white color. The flavor of this variety is less acid than any other. Excellent for dessert. Cherry. — Berries larger than that of any other sort, but too acid for most tastes, and only suitable for jelly. GOOSEBERRY. The Gooseberry is a fruit better suited for the climate of Great Britain than for ours, and it is rarely seen here in the perfection it attains there. It ripens just when our hottest weather occurs, forcing it unnaturally to maturity, and hence the absence of the size and flavor it attains when ripened at a lower temperature. The native varieties, though far inferior in size and quality, are usually more free from mildew, and are therefore most desirable for cultivation here, as the fruit with us is more used in the green than in the ripe state. Goose- GOOSEBERIIY. berries are planted from three to four feet apart, and are treated in all other respects like Currant bushes. Industry.— A. European variety that proves admirably adapted to our climate. It is comparatively new. In size and flavor it is equal to many of the finest English sorts. Color a dark red. The cut (figure 101) is an ex- cellent representation of its average size. 284 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Downing. — A native variety of medium size, greenish- white when ripe, and of excellent quality. Houghton's Seedling. — Also a native variety. Size 'medium, color red, flavor average. Of the foreign varieties among Reds may be named as leading sorts, Warrington, Champion, Waterloo ; of Greens, Green Globe, Melville, Green Gage ; of Yellows, Sulphur, Champagne, Golden Drop ; of Whites, Crystal, Whitesmith, Dutch. There are a number of English and Scotch mechanics employed at the mills in Paterson, N. J., who make a specialty of growing English Gooseberries in their cottage gardens, and hold yearly exhibitions for prizes for the best specimens. By the following method they have attained nearly as good success as is met with in Eng- land. The soil (which is naturally a good strong loam, and one foot or more in depth) is trenched to a depth of fifteen or eighteen inches, and mixed with the subsoil, which is partly sand and partly clay. Through this soil is incorporated three inches of well-rotted cow dung. The Gooseberry plants, which are all imported from Eng- land, are planted about three and a half feet each way ; and as soon as the hot and dry weather begins (usually about the middle of June), a heavy mulching, three or four inches deep, of well-rotted horse or cow dung is spread over the whole surface. This keeps the roots cool and moist, the necessary conditions for the perfection of this fruit. The Fig, on account of not being hardy in the North- ern States, is but little cultivated, unless in tubs, which are placed in cellars or sheds to protect them during the winter months, or occasionally on the back wall of lean- to graperies ; but in all parts of the country where the QUINCE. 285 thermometer does not get lower than twenty degrees above zero, they can be grown freely in the open air without protection. It is hardly ever necessary to prune the Fig, except to regulate its shape by cutting back any extra strong shoots. In sections of the country such as Maryland, West Virginia, or Delaware, where it may require slight protection when grown in the open air, it should be planted against a wall or fence, and trained against it. On the approach of cold weather it should be laid down and covered as recommended f9r hardy grapes. When grown in tubs to be kept in cellars, sheds, or greenhouse pits, they should be placed under cover in this latitude early in November, kept as dry as possible without shrivelling, and set out in the open air again in May. The soil and general treatment for plants grown in the open air in pots or tubs will be suitable for them. There are numerous sorts in cultivation, from which we select the following : White Genoa. — Large, roundish, yellow skin ; flesh reddish pink, excellent flavor. Brown Turkey. — Pear shaped, average size, brown skin ; flesh red, rich flavor. Early Violet. — Skin brownish-red ; flesh reddish-crim- son, delicious flavor ; fruit rather small. One of the hardiest. Brown Ischia. — Size large, skin yellowish-brown ; flesh violet, sweet and luscious. Very prolific. QUINCE. A few Quince trees should be planted in every garden where there is any pretension to a collection of fruits. It is a tree requiring but little attention, and for that reason is often neglected, and very unsightly specimens are seen. The tree is very ornamental in flower and fruit ; and by 286 GARDENING FOK PLEASURE. a little attention to pruning, a handsome head may be formed, though equally luxuriant crops are seen on trees that have been untouched for years. They may be planted eight or ten feet apart. The following varieties are in most general use. Apple-shaped or Orange. — A large round variety, bright golden-yellow. Pear-shaped. — Color greenish-yellow, and its shape being more pear-like, readily distinguishes it from the other and better variety. Rea's Seedling. — This variety is the largest and finest of all. CHERRY. The Cherry-tree begins to bear usually in two or three years after planting trees of the size sold at the nurseries, and continues to enlarge in growth and productiveness annually, until it often attains a larger size than most of our fruit-trees. The Cherry grows freely in almost any soil that is free from moisture, preferring, however, like most other fruits, a deep loamy soil. The tree may be trained as desired, either in pyramidal form or with a round top, by pruning and directing the shoots. The distance apart may be ten or twelve feet. Varieties : Blade Tartarian. — Deep purplish-black, very large ; fine solid flesh. Season last of June. This variety has been in cultivation for over fifty years, and yet stands unequaled in quality. (Figure 102.) Rockport. — Very large, amber-yellow, dotted red ; flesh firm, sweet, and excellent. Ripens in June.. Coe's Transparent. — Color pale amber-yellow, spotted with pink ; flesh tender, sweet, and of fine flavor. Ripens middle of June. May Duke. — Color dark red, size medium, quality ex- cellent. Ripens early in June. PLUM 287 Morello. — A sub-acid variety of medium size, color bright red, changing to darker color when fully ripe. Fig. 102. — BLACK TARTARIAN CHERRY. Hangs long on the tree, and is mainly used for pies and preserving. PLUM, The cultivation of the Plum is rendered nearly useless in most places by the attacks of the Curculio, or Plum Weevil. An almost certain remedy is to use a teaspoon- ful of London Purple or Paris Green to six gallons of 288 GARDENING FOK PLEASURE. water, syringed on the trees every other day for fifteen days, beginning the operation as the flower begins to drop, as it is just when the fruit is forming that the in- sect deposits its egg. No danger need be apprehended from the small quantity of the poison used, as it will bo all washed from the fruit long before it ripens. Another remedy, which will effectually save a crop in the districts infested by this insect, is to jar the tree in the morning or in cool days, first spreading sheets under the trees to catch the weevils, after which they may be burned. If this is begun as soon as the Plums are formed, and per- sisted in every few days until they are ripe, a large share of the crop may be saved. This may be thought to be paying rather dear for a crop of Plums, but it is really the only way it can be secured. Many years ago the crop of a Plum orchard under my charge, numbering over a hundred large trees, was saved by this process, while all other Plums in the district, where the jarring of the trees was not resorted to, were completely destroyed. This plan was recommended nearly half a century ago, and no other practicable method has been presented until the recent use of Paris Green, applied as already described. It has been recommended by some to plant the trees on the bank of a pond or running stream, and train them to overhang the water ; also to pave or cement around the roots, so that the insect cannot burrow; but these plans would be often impossible, and are practically useless in general culture. Trees upon stiff, clayey soils are more exempt from the ravages of the Curculio than those upon light ones, probably for the reason that the insect in the grub or larvae state cannot penetrate them so readily, as they must enter the ground to become perfect insects. The average distance at which the Plum may be planted is from ten to twelve feet. The following are distinct and fine sorts. Smith's Orleans. — Color purple, with a rich blue JAPANESE PERSIMMON. 289 bloom ; size medium ; flesh deep yellow; flavor of first quality ; clingstone. Eipens in August. Washington. — Color yellow, marbled with red next the sun ; large size ; flesh firm, sweet, and rich ; freestone. Eipens first of September. Green Gage. — A well-known variety, rather small in size, but of exquisite flavor. Color greenish-yellow, spotted with red on the sunny side ; freestone. Kipens early in August. Imperial Gage. — Of large size, and similar in flavor to the Green Gage. Color yellowish-green. Columbia. — Of the largest size; color brownish-purple; flesh yellow, sweet, and finely flavored ; freestone. Eipens the last of August. Coe's Golden Drop. — A very old and well-known sort. Color golden yellow with red spots next the sun ; large, oval ; rich, sweet, yellow fleshed. Eipens the middle of September. Magnum Bonum. — Yellowish white, egg-shaped, of large size and having a rich spicy flavor. JAPANESE PERSIMMON. An entirely distinct species from the American Persim- mon, and is likely to become a valuable addition to fruits in the Southern States, but the Southern States only, as repeated trials have shown that it is not likely to prove hardy in any part of the country where the thermometer falls lower than fifteen degrees above zero. It has al- ready been grown, to some extent, in Florida and Cali- fornia, and the fruit from Florida is now finding its way into our Northern markets, and at this time brings the very high price of twenty-five cents each, while oranges from the same section hardly bring one-sixth of that price. 290 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE. The culture is very similar to that for the Orange, ex- cept that the Japan Persimmon, like its American rela- tive, is deciduous ; that is, it drops its leaves in the winter months. The fruit in taste is somewhat be- tween a Fig and an Apricot, and when fully ripe is de- licious. It has been long grown in Japan, where the varieties are quite as numerous as Plums are with us. In size and coloring some kinds resemble a red tomato, Fig. 103. — JAPAN PEBSIMMON (From a Photograph). though there is a great difference in the various kinds, both in shape and color. Figure 103 shows a variety of medium size. PEACH. The Peach prefers the light, dry, and warm soils known as sandy loams. The tree is short-lived in most sections, and attains its best fruiting condition usually when from five to nine years old. The tree is greatly benefited by pruning. The growth of the previous sea- PEACH. 291 son should be shortened about one-third. This, if an- nually followed from the time the trees are set, will give them compact heads instead of open, straggling ones, the branches of which will break down with the first full crop of fruit. In the Peach-growing districts the culti- vators do not expect more than three crops in five years ; and if they get two full crops in that time they are con- tent, and amateurs should expect no more. When a crop sets at all there is usually more fruit than the tree can carry and ripen. No fruit needs severe thinning more than the Peach. In bearing seasons half or two-thirds of the Peaches which set may be removed with benefit to the rest. The fruit should be removed when about the size of hazel nuts. When a tree appears sickly with yellow foliage, dig it up at once. The distance the trees should be set apart may be from ten to twelve feet. Among the favorite varieties for garden culture may be named the following: Bale's Early. — A very early Peach, of fair size and great beauty, but has the fault that it in some localities rots just as it begins to ripen, a difficulty probably due to overbearing rather than to locality. Freestone, excellent. Columbia. — Large, round, color yellow and red, streaked with dark crimson ; flesh yellow, rich, and juicy ; flavor excellent. Freestone ; ripens in September. Crawford's Early. — Large, roundish, color yellow, tinged with red ; flesh yellow, rich, and sweet. Kipens last of August ; freestone. Crawford's Late. — Similar in appearance, but ripening three weeks later. Cooledge's Favorite. — Size medium, roundish oval, color clear white with crimson cheek ; flesh rich, juicy, and of first quality. Kipens in August ; freestone. Honest John, or Early York. — Large, roundish, white 292 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. with red cheek ; flesh white, very juicy, excellent flavor. Ripens the middle of August ; freestone. Morris White. — A well-known variety, size medium, color greenish- white, flavor average. The variety mostly used for preserving. Ripens the middle of September ; freestone. Red Cheek Melocoton. — Fruit large, yellow, with dark red cheek; flesh orange-yellow, flavor excellent. Ripens the middle of September ; freestone. NECTARINES. Nectarines are only smooth-skinned Peaches, requiring in all respects similar treatment to the Peach. They are but little grown in this country, as they are even more liable than the Plum itself to injury by the attacks of the Plum Curculio. The same treatment recommended for its destruction in Plums must be applied to the Nectarine. There is a peculiarity in the flavor of some varieties of Nectarines differing from that of any of the Peaches, and by some they are greatly preferred to any Peach in flavor. The varieties are not numerous. Early Newingion. — Large, roundish oval, greenish- yellow, mottled red ; flesh yellowish-white,, Ripens in September ; cling. Hunt's Tawny. — Large, round, amber-yellow with red cheek ; flesh orange, melting, flavor excellent. Ripens in August ; freestone. Boston. — Large, oval, yellow, with mottled crimson cheek ; flesh yellow, quality excellent. Ripens in Sep- tember ; freestone. APRICOT. The Apricot is closely related to the Plum, but belongs to another species. It is a delicious fruit, and in cold latitudes succeeds best grown against a fence or the sid« APPLE. 293 of a house. The blighting Curculio attacks the Apricot also, and its culture can only be successful by combating the difficulties that attend that of the Plum, unless in special locations that seem few and far between. It is now grown to a large extent in California, where it is preserved by canning in immense quantities. The fol- lowing are good varieties : Moor park. — Size large as an average Peach, yellow with red cheek ; flesh orange, sweet, and of exquisite flavor. Ripens in July. Orange. — Pale yellow with red cheek, size medium. Ripens end of July. Turkey. — Large, deep yellow, shaded orange ; flesh pale yellow, firm, rich, and sweet. Ripens in August. APPLE. The Apple can only be grown in small gardens as a dwarf, either kept in a bush form or trained as a pyramid or other shape. The dwarf trees are made so by grafting on dwarfing stocks, while the varieties are the same as those found in the large trees of the orchard. Two sorts of dwarfing stocks are used by nurserymen, the Doucin and the Paradise. Trees upon the Doucin will ultimately grow quite large ; and as the Paradise is the only stock which makes really dwarf trees, the amateur who wishes to grow dwarf apple-trees should make sure that they are worked on Paradise stocks. Of course, trees of this kind are not advised as a source of profit ; but there can scarcely be a handsomer object in the garden than a bush six feet high, and about the same through, loaded with enormous apples. Dwarf apple-trees may be planted six feet apart each way, while ordinary trees in the orchard are given fifteen to thirty feet, or even forty feet. The following sorts are recommended for garden culture. 29-t GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. (For descriptions, see nursery cataloguer,.) Baldwin, Gravenstein, Khode Island Greening, King of Tompkina Fig. 104.— FALL PIPPIN APPLE. County, Maiden's Blush, Esopus Spitzenberg, Early Har- vest, Northern Spy, Porter, and Fall Pippin (figure 104). PEARS. Like Apples, Pears are grown as dwarfs and standards; the former being planted from eight to ten feet apart, the latter from ten to fifteen feet. The dwarfs, budded on the quince stock, are mostly used for garden culture, as, from their habit, they are more suitable, besides having the invaluable quality of coming quicker into bearing. Time was when the adage went, "He that plants Pears, PEARS. 295 plants for his heirs;" but this is now no more applicable to the Pear than to the Peach ; for we can have fine crops of Pears budded on the Quince in three to five years from the time of planting. The trees may be grown as pyramids (as in figure 105), or in the bush form ; or, in small gardens, Pear, Peach, and other trees can be suc- 103. — KEIFFER PEAK. cessfully trained in what is called the oblique cordon, which allows a number of varieties to be grown in a small space. Only a general outline of the method can be given here, referring for fuller details to Barry's and 296 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. other works on fruit culture. A trellis is built about eight feet high, bv nailing a strong top and bottom rail to posts, which should be about eight feet apart. Slats of inch stuff are put on between the two rails at an angle of thirty degrees. These are fastened on with screws, as, when the trees have reached the top, the slats are to be brought down to forty-five degrees ; and they should be long enough to allow for doing this. Young trees are set in an inclined position in a line with these slats, which are three feet apart. Each tree is cut back to a few buds, and one shoot allowed to grow from the Fig. 106.— COBDON-TRAINING OF PEAB TREES. strongest bud, all the others being removed. This shoot, as it grows, is kept tied to the slat, and when it throws out side shoots, as it soon will, they are pinched back to three or four leaves, whenever the shoot is sufficiently developed to allow the number of the leaves to be seen. By growing in this inclined position, and by pinching every shoot back to three or four leaves, the tree is dwarfed and made to bear early, and, when properly managed, forms a perfect cordon or garland, with fruit PEARS. 297 Fig. 107.— BABTLETT PEAK. 298 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. along its whole length. Figure 106 shows a portion of a trellis of this kind. The following varieties are recommended for either kind of training. (For descriptions, see nursery cata- logues.) Beurre d'Anjou, Seckel, Beurre Bosc, Sheldon, Summer Doyenne, Winter Nelis, Duchesse d'Angouleme, Doyenne Boussock, Lawrence, Howell, Belle Lucrative, Louise Bonne de Jersey, and Bartlett (figure 1 07). Beurre Bosc, Sheldon, and Winter Nelis on Quince stock should be double worked. VEGETABLE GARDEN. COTTAGE GARDENING — A DIGRESSION. 301 CHAPTER XLV. COTTAGE GARDENING— A DIGRESSION. BEFORE taking up the subject of vegetable culture, I tvill relate an incident connected with, cottage gardening that may interest, if it does not benefit, some of those into tarhose hands this book may fall. About twenty years ago I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of a gen- tleman whose duties compelled him to be at his desk in a close office in the city of New York, from nine o'clock A.M. to four P.M. Being naturally of a weak constitution, his sedentary life soon made him the victim of dyspepsy to such a degree that he felt that he must soon resign his situation. He was then a man of forty, entirely ignorant of anything pertaining to country life, and it was with great misgivings and reluctance that, by the advice of his physician, he changed his home from a closely built part of New York to a cottage in the then country-like suburb of Jersey City Heights, N. J. His means enabled him to purchase a modest cottage built on a lot fifty by one hundred and fifty feet. He did not want the land, he said, but the cottage was such as he fancied, and the ground had to go with it. It was about this time that I formed his acquaintance, through some business transac- tion, and he asked my professional advice as to what he could do with his land, which he had already begun to consider somewhat of an encumbrance. I replied to him that, if I was not greatly mistaken, in his little plot of ground lay a cure for all his bodily ills, and that, besides, it could add to the comforts if not the luxuries of his table if he would only work it. "I work it!" he ex- claimed. "You don't suppose that these hands could dig or delve," holding up his thin and bloodless fingers; " and if they could, I know nothing about gardening." 302 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. I told him I thought neither objection insurmountable, if he once began. The result of our conversation was, that he resolved to try, and try he did to a purpose. Our interview was in March, and before the end of April he had his lot all nicely dug over, the labor being done by his own hands during an hour and a half each morning. His custom was to get up at six o'clock, and work at his garden until half past seven. This gave him ample time to dress, get breakfast, and be at his desk in the city by nine. The labor of merely digging was (to him) heavy and rather monotonous ; but he stuck to it bravely, and when he again presented himself before me for plants and seeds, and information as to what to do with them, it was with some pride that I saw my prescription had worked so well, for my friend then looked more like a farmer than a pallid clerk. The regulating of his little garden was a simple matter, and was done according to the following diagram : Cauliflower, Cabbage, and Lettuce. Strawberries. Cucumbers, Onions, and Parsley. Raspberries. Beets, Carrots, and Parsnips. Tomatoes. Peas and Bush Beans. Asparagus and Rhubarb. During his first season, of course, he made some blun- ders and some failures, but his interest in the work in- creased year by year. His family was supplied with an abundance of all the fresh vegetables and fruits his lim- ited space could admit of being grown; a supply that it would have taken at least one hundred and fifty dollars to purchase at retail, and stale at that. But the benefit derived from the cultivation of this cottage garden was THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 303 health — strong, rugged health — that, for the six years he was my neighbor, never once failed him. I know this case is an extremely exceptional one, for I never knew another man who so resolutely worked him- self into health. There are hundreds of business men, book-keepers, salesmen, clerks, and the like, who live in the suburbs of all great cities, many of whom can ill afford to pay for the keeping of the plots surrounding their cottages, but who think they can far less afford to do the work themselves. As a consequence, in nine cases out of ten, the rear, at least, of their suburban plots is a wilderness of weeds. But this is not the least of the evils. The owner has a certain amount of muscular force, and this, be it more or less, being unused, its possessor pays the penalty of his laziness in dyspepsy and a host of other ills. The proofs are apparent everywhere that garden operations are conducive to health and longevity. The work is not unduly laborious, and when fairly en- tere.d into has a never-failing interest. The growing and the watching of the great variety of plants give a healthy tone to the mind, while the physical labor demanded by cultivation takes care of the body. CHAPTER XLVI. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. IT is perhaps best that the space allotted to vegetables should be at one side of the garden, and that for fruits at the other, at least in the beginning, though a rotation of crops or change of position may be advantageous in course of time. Figure 108 gives a convenient plan for the Fruit and Vegetable Garden. I will give in brief the 304 GARDENING FOR PLEASUBE. culture of each vegetable in general use, placing them alphabetically for easy reference, and enumerate the lead- ing varieties. ASPARAGUS (Asparagus offlcinalis). Asparagus should be planted the first spring that the owner comes into possession of the land. In the latitude of New York any time from April 1st to May ASPARAGUS. 305 loth ; and if the house is yet to be builb, let the Aspara- gus bed be planted at once, as it takes the roots two or three years to acquire sufficient strength to give a crop. For an ordinary family a bed of six rows of fifty or sixty feet in length, and three feet apart, will be suf- ficient, the plants in the rows being set nine inches apart. In planting it is customary to use two-year-old plants ; but it often happens that as large a plant is raised from seed in good soil in one year as in a Fig. 109. — ASPARAGUS. poorer soil in two years. In such cases the one-year- old plant is preferable. The preparation of the Asparagus bed should be made with more care than for most vegetables, from the fact that it is a permanent crop, which ought to yield as well at the end of twenty-five as of five years, if the soil has been well prepared. The Asparagus bed, to start with, should be on ground thoroughly drained, either naturally or artificially, and if choice can be had, on a rather light, 306 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. sandy loam. This should be trenched and mixed with suf- ficient manure to form aooat- ing at least six inches thick over the bed. This manure should be worked into the soil by trenching to the depth of two feet, as the roots of the plant will reach quite that depth in a few years. In setting, the crowns of the plants should be placed at least three inches below the surface. Asparagus may be planted either in the spring or the fall. If in the spring, it should be done as early as the ground is dry enough to work ; and if in the fall, just as soon as the plants can be had, which is usually in the early part of October. We prefer fall planting on light, well-drained soils, for the rea- son that, if it is done then, young roots are formed which are ready to grow on the ap- proach of spring; but if the planting is done in March, April, or May, this formation of new roots has to take place then and causes a correspond- ing delay in growth. Plants are sold by market gardeners and seedsmen; and as it will Fig. no.— PALMETTO^ASPAEAGTJS. save a year or two to pur- ARTICHOKE, GLOBE. 307 chase them, it is not worth while to raise them from seed in a private garden. The edible portion is the undeveloped stems, which, if cut away as soon as they appear, are followed by others, which start from the crown of the plant. The cutting, if continued too long, would finally exhaust the root ; hence it is customary to stop cutting as soon as early peas become plenty, and allow the remaining shoots to grow during the rest of the season, and thus accu- mulate sufficient strength in the plant to allow it to pro- duce another crop of shoots the next season. The en- graving (figure 109) represents a strong plant with the earth removed from the roots. The shoots aie shown in differont stages of development, and it will be seen how readily cureless cutting may injure the buds which are ready to produce a succession of shoots. The surface of the Asparagus bed should have a top- dressing of three or four inches of rough stable manure every fall (November), which should be lightly forked into the bed in the spring. The variety mostly grown is the Colossal, although the new French variety, known as the Palmetto (figure 110), is likely to supersede it, its merit being that the shoots grow more uniformly large than the Colossal. In some localities Asparagus is attacked by an insect called the Asparagus Beetle. The best method of getting rid of this pest, that we have found, is to coop up a hen, and let the chickens eat the insects and their eggs. AKTICHOKE, GLOBE (Cynara Scdymus). The portion used of this plant is the undeveloped flower cluster, or the portion which is known as the scales of the involucre. They are boiled and served with drawn butter ; but outside of France they do not seem to be very generally appreciated. The plants are propagated 308 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. first by seeds, sown in a hot-bed in March, and planted out at distances of from two to three feet. It is not always hardy enough for our winters in the North- ern States, though it proves so in all latitudes south of Washington. Here it is necessary, on the approach of winter, to draw the leaves togeth- er and earth up around them, and later to cover the tops with litter. ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM (Helianthus tuberosus). This is an entirely dif- ferent plant from the pre- ceding; but as the two are sometimes confounded, we give engravings of both. The edible por- Fig. 111.--GLOBE ABTICHOKE. tjQn Qf thlS IS the tuber, while that of the Globe Artichoke is the scales surround- ing the flowers. The tubers of the Jerusalem Artichoke somewhat resemble the Potato in appearance, and the Fig. 112. — JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. plant produces immense crops. But few persons in this country like the flavor, and it is rarely grown unless for stock or as a curiosity. Its culture is similar to the BEAN. 309 Potato. It has stems, leaves, and flowers much like thfi common annual Sunflower, to which family it belongs. BEAN (Pfiaseolus vulgaris var. nanus), BUSH, SNAP, OR KIDNEY. An indispensable vegetable, of easy cultivation, grow- ing freely in almost any soil, though in well-enriched land it will be more prolific in quantity and more tender in quality. It is a plant of tropical origin, and, like all such, should not be sown until the weather is settled and warm, and all danger from frost is past. In this latitude, the time of sowing should not be sooner than the fifth of May. Sow at intervals of two or three weeks all through the season, if wanted for use. Seed may be sown in drills eighteen to twenty-four inches apart, and three inches deep, dropping the seeds at distances of two or three inches in the drills, and covering to the general level. For such as use them all through the season, three or four quarts would be required, although a quart at one sowing would give an ample quantity for any average family. The varieties most in use at present are Red Valentine, Early Mohawk, Yellow Six Weeks, Refugee, White Marrowfat, Black Wax, and Golden Wax. BEAN, POLE OR RUNNING, AND LIMA (Fliaseolus lunatus). Pole Beans are usually cultivated in hills three or four feet apart. The poles (which are best made of young cedar trees) should be nine or ten feet high, and firmly fixed at least eighteen inches deep in the ground, and the hills formed around them by digging up the soil and mixing it with a shovelful of well-rotted manure, or an ounce or so of guano or bone-dust, if the stable manure is not attainable ; but in either case let the mixing be thorough. The hills should be but two or three inches above the general level, and at least eighteen inches in 310 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE. diameter. The term " hill " is an unfortunate one, as it often lends inexperienced persons to suppose that a tall heap must be made, and it is a common mistake to form miniature hills often a foot or more in hight, upon which to sow seeds or set plants. The effect of this is to confine the roots to this small, high, and dry space. When the word " hill " is used in this work, it is to indicate the place plants are to occupy, and unless some hight is mentioned, it is not above the general level. After the hill has been properly formed around the pole, from five to six beans should be planted around it at a depth of two inches ; but the planting should never be done in this latitude before the 20th of May. In all our experience as seedsmen, we know of no seed that is so universally replanted as Lima Beans. I think it safe to say, that at least half of all the people who buy, plant before the ground is dry and warm, and then tell us that the seed must have been bad, because it rotted in the ground. In the hurry of business we have not always time to explain why they rotted, and would here state, for the sake of ourselves and cotemporaries, that the reason why the Lixnas fail to grow in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred is, that they are planted too early, and that it is no fault of the seed, which is rarely imperfect. The proper method of planting Lima Beans is to push each one singly into the soil, from one to two inches deep, with the eye downward. The embryo is so very broad and flat that it is difficult for it to turn itself as smaller seeds do when placed in a wrong position. From one to two quarts are used for an ordinary family. The Large White Lima is the variety that is most prized. The Jersey Extra Early Lima is a new and excellent variety, nearly a week earlier than the Large Lima, though not quite so large. The Scarlet Runner is a highly ornamental variety, BEET — BORECOLE. 31] producing dazzling scarlet flowers during the whofc summer. It is used mainly as a snap bean. Lima Beans are usually planted only once in this latitude, as they take nearly the whole season to mature. All kinds of running or pole beans have been usually grown on poles eight or ten feet long ; but the new pea vine trellis (see "Implements"), introduced in 1887, is infinitely better and far more convenient. BEET (Beta vulgaris), Sow in shallow drills twelve to eighteen inches apart in April or May, dropping the seeds so that they will fall an inch or so apart. When the plants have grown to the hight of about two inches, thin out, so that they will stand four inches apart. When the roots are three inches in diameter they are fit for use. Of course they are used when much larger, but the younger they are, the more delicate and tender. Four ounces of each kind will be sufficient for ordinary family use, unless successional crops are wanted, when double the quantity may be used. The kinds most used are Egyptian Turnip, Eclipse, and Long Smooth Blood. BORECOLE OR KALE (Brassica oleracea var.). The rather indefinite name of " sprouts" is given to this vegetable about New York. It is sown here in Sep- tember, in rows one foot apart, treated in every way as Spinach, and is ready for use in early spring. Four ounces of seed are sufficient to sow three hundred feet of row. Two varieties of this, but little grown here, are the Scotch Kale, or Curled Greens, and the Dwarf German Greens. The former is of a deep green color, the latter bluish purple. Both varieties are much curled, almost like Parsley. The seeds of these are sown in May, and transplanted in July, just as we do late Cab- 312 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. bages, at distances of two feet apart each way. These " Greens," of either variety, when touched by frost, are the most tender and delicate of all the cabbage tribe, and it has always been a matter of wonder to me why theii cultivation has not been more general in this country. In Britain they are used very extensively as a winter vegetable. The most popular German variety is Purple Borecole. The most popular English variety is Cottager's Kale, very hardy and profitable, more weight of it being grown in the same space than of any other variety. An ounce of each kind is about the average quantity used. BROCCOLI (Brassica olcracea var.). We persist in growing under the two distinct names of Broccoli and Cauliflower, plants which at best are noth- ing more than very nearly related varieties. The main difference between them is, that what we call Broccoli is planted for fall use, while that which we call Cauliflower is planted for spring or summer use ; though in this respect they are frequently reversed without seeming to mind it. For fall use a packet of seed should be sown in the early part of May, which will give plants large enough to be set out in July. Further south the sowing of the seed should be delayed from four to six weeks later, and the plants be set out correspondingly later. Here we put them out in July, though further south it may be de- layed to August or September. In the mild autumn weather of those latitudes this vegetable may be had in perfection from November to March, while with us, if planted out in July it matures during October and November. The plants are set at two and a half to three feet apart, and as a hundred plants are all that most families would use, it is usually cheaper to buy them, if in a section where they are sold, than to raise the plants 'rom seed. Broccoli requires an abundance of manure. The varieties are — BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 313 White and Purple Cape. — There is no difference in flavor, though the white is the most pleasant looking vegetable when cooked. BRUSSELS SPROUTS (Brassica oleracea var.). This vegetable, as the engraving shows, is a variety of the Cabbage which forms scarcely any terminal bud or head ; but the buds along the stem, which in the ordi- 113. — BRUSSELS SPROUTS. nary Cabbage remain small, are in this developed into small heads, which are the edible portion. Brussels Sprouts are much more used in Europe than with us. Though the plant is not sufficiently hardy to endnre our northern winters, it will stand in this latitude until 314 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Christmas. Its cultivation is exactly similar in all re- spects to that of Broccoli, except that it may be planted closer, say from one and a half to two feet apart. CAULIFLOWER (Brassica oleracca var.). There is quite an ambition among amateur gardeners to raise early Cauliflower; but as the conditions necessary to success with this are not quite so easy to command as with most other vegetables, probably not one in three who try it succeed. In England, and most places on the Continent of Europe, it is the most valued of all vegetables, and is grown there nearly as easily as early Cabbages. But it must be remembered that the temper- ature there is on the average ten degrees lower at the time it matures (June) than with us ; besides, their atmosphere is much more humid, two conditions essen- tial to its best development. I will briefly state how early Cauliflowers can be most successfully grown here. First, the soil must be well broken and pulverized by spading or plowing to at least a foot in depth, mixing through it a layer of three or four inches of strong, well- rotted stable manure. The plants may be either those from seed sown last fall and wintered over in cold frames, or else started from seeds sown in January or February, in a hot-bed or greenhouse, and planted in small pots or boxes, so as to make plants strong enough to be set out as soon as the soil is fit to work, which in this latitude is usually the first week in April. We are often applied to for Cauliflower plants as late as the end of May, but the chances of their forming heads when planted late in May are slim indeed. The surest way to secure the heading of Cauliflowers is to use what are called hand-glasses, some of which are described in the chapter on "Implements." These are usually made about two feet square, which gives room CAULIFLOWER. 315 enough for three or four plants of Cauliflower, until they are so far forwarded that the glass can be taken off. When the hand-glass is used, the Cauliflowers may be planted out in any warm border early in March and covered by them. This covering protects them from frosts at night, and gives the necessary increase of tem- perature for growth during the cold weeks of March and April ; so that by the first week in May, if the Cauli- flower has been properly hardened off by ventilating (by tilting up the hand-glasses on one side), they may be Fig. 114.— HENDERSON'S EARLY SNOWBALL OATJLIFLOWER. taken off altogether, and then used to fonvard Tomatoes, Melons, or Cucumbers, at which date these may be started, if under the protection of hand-glasses. If the weather is dry, the Cauliflowers will be much benefited by being thoroughly soaked with water twice or thrice a week ; not a mere sprinkling, which is of no use, but a complete drenching, so that the water will reach to the lowest roots. If the ground is slightly sprinkled around the roots with guano before watering, all the better. The best varieties of Cauliflower we have found as yet are the Early Snowball (figure 114), introduced by me in 316 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 1880, and, for succession, Early Paris or Algiers. These instructions refer to the early crop of Cauliflower. For late or fall crop sow the seeds in May, and plant out as for Cabbage in June or July. In our climate there is usually more success with late than early Cauliflower. CABBAGE (Brassica oleracea var.). The Cabbage is so easily raised that but little space need be devoted to it here. Like all of its tribe, it re- quires an abundance of manure for its full development. The early varieties should be either raised in cold frames or in hot-beds, as stated for Cauliflower, and planted out at distances of from twenty to thirty inches apart each way, as early as the ground is fit to work in April. The best early varieties are the Early Wakefield and Early CARROT. 317 Summer. As a successional variety the Winningstadt is very popular. It has a sharply conical head, and sometimes grows quite large. For late varieties, the seed should be sown in May, and the plants set out in June or July at two to three feet apart. For winter use the Flat Dutch or Drumhead is usually grown, to the exclusion of all others ; and while the Curled Savoy is vastly better flavored, not one Savoy is planted for every thousand Drumhead. The flavor of Fig. 116.— VARIETIES OF THE CARROT. 1.— EABLY FRENCH FORCING. 2. — EARLY HORN. 3.— LONG ORANGE. the Savoy is as superior to that of the Drumhead, as that of a Bartlett is to that of a choke pear, and it is alto- gether the best late Cabbage for family use, and the wonder is how long it has taken for it to be appreciated here, though we find its culture is increasing rapidly. CARROT (Daucus Carota). Carrots are sown any time from April to June, in rows one foot apart, covering the seed two inches deep. If 318 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. the soil is light, they will be better flavored. When the plants are an inch or so high, thin out to three or four inches apart. The varieties most in use are Early French Forcing, Early Horn, and Long Orange. Eight ounces of seed will sow three hundred feet of row, which, for most families, would be an abundance, both for summer and winter use. Carrots are much prized as food for horses and cows, and if wanted for this purpose in quan- tity, they should be sown with a seed-drill, in rows one and a half to two feet apart. About four pounds of seed per acre are required. CELERY (Aplum graveolens}. If I am fitted to instruct on the cultivation of any veg- etable, it is this, as for many years I have cultivated nearly half a million roots annually, and this experience has resulted in greatly simplifying the operation. The seeds are sown on a well-pulverized, rich border, in the open ground, as early in the season as the ground can be worked. The bed is kept clear of weeds until July, when the plants are set out for the crop. But as the seedling plants are rather troublesome to raise, the small number wanted for private use can usually be purchased cheaper than they can be raised on a small scale (they cost from fifty cents to a dollar per hundred); and if they ca-n be procured fresh from the seedsmen, market gardeners, or florists in the neighborhood, it is never worth while to sow the seed, as from three hundred to five hundred plants are ample for ordinary sized families. The European plan is to make a trench six or eight inches deep in which to plant Celery; but our violent rain storms in summer soon showed us that this plan was not a good one here, so we set about planting on the level surface of the ground, just as we do with all vegetables. Celery is a "gross feeder," and requires two or three CELERY. 319 inches thick of well-rotted manure, which, as usual, must be well mixed and incorporated with the soil before the Celery is set out. If stable manure is not convenient, bone dust, guano, or other concentrated fertilizer may be sown on the rows about as thick as sand or sawdust is strewn on a floor, and well chopped in and mixed with the coil. Whether stable manure or a concentrated fertilizer be used, it should be spread over and mixed to at least twelve inches in width and six inches in depth. When the ground is thus prepared, we stretch a line to the distance required, and beat it slightly with a spade, so that it leaves a mark to show where to place the plants. These are set out at distances of six inches between the plants, and usually four feet between the rows. Great care must be taken in putting out the Celery, to see that the plant is set just to the depth of the roots. If much deeper, the "heart" might be too much covered up, which would impede the growth. It is also important that the soil be well packed to the root in planting ; and if the operation can be done in the evening, and the plants copiously watered, no farther watering will usually be required. If planted in July, nothing is to be done but keep the crop clear of weeds until September. By that time the handling process is to be begun, which consists in draw- ing the earth to each side of the Celery, and pressing it tightly to it, so as to give the leaves an upward growth preparatory to blanching for use. Supposing this hand- ling process is done by the middle of September, by the first week in October it is ready for " banking up," which is done by digging the soil from between the rows and laying or banking it up on each side of the row of Celery. After being so banked up in October, it will be ready for use in three or four weeks, if wanted at that time. But if, as is usually the case, it is needed for winter use only, and is to be put away in trenches or in the cellar, as 320 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE. will be hereafter described, all that it requires is the operation of " handling," to straighten it up. If the Celery is to be left in the open ground where it was grown (as it" can be in any section of the country where the ther- mometer does not fall more than fifteen degrees below the freezing point), then a heavy bank must be made on each side of the rows, and as cold weather approaches— say by the middle of November — an additional covering of at least a foot of leaves or litter must be closely packed against the bank, to protect it from frost. Perhaps the best way to keep Celery for family use is in a cellar. This can be done by storing it in narrow Fig. 117.— " HANDLING boxes of a depth a little less than the hight of the Celery. A few inches of sand or soil are placed in the bottom of the box, and the Celery is packed upright, the roots being placed on damp sand or earth at the bottom, but none is to be put between the heads; and be careful not to water the Celery, as, if packed moderately tight, the air will be excluded, so that it will not wilt ; and the roots being on the damp sand or soil at the bottom of the box, the moisture there will sustain them. Boxes thus packed and placed in a cool cellar in November, will be blanched fit for use during January, February, and March, though, for succession, it will be better to put it in the boxes CELERY. 321 from the open ground at three different times, say October 25th, November 30th, and November 20th. Or, if boxes are not at hand, the Celery may be put away on the floor of the cellar in strips nine or ten inches wide, separated by spaces of the same width, and divided by boards of a night equal to the hight of the Celery. The reason for dividing the Celery in these narrow strips by boards is to prevent "heating," which would take place if the plants were packed together in too thick masses. The dates above given apply, of course, to the latitude of New York. If farther south, do the work later; if farther north, earlier. If one has no suitable cellar, the Fig. 118 — SHOWS CELERY BANKED UP. Celery can be very readily preserved in the manner fol- lowed by market gardeners, thus : After it has been " h ana led " or straightened up, as before described, what is intended for use by Christmas should be dug up by about October 25th ; that to be used in January and February, by November 10th ; and that for March use, by November 20th, which latter date is as late as it can be risked here. Although it will stand quite a sharp frost, the weather by the end of November is often severe enough to kill it, or so freeze it in the ground that it cannot be dug up. The ground in which it is to be preserved for winter use must be as 322 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. dry as possible, and so arranged that no water can remain in the trench. Dig a trench as narrow as possible (it should not be wider than ten inches), and of a depth equal to the hight of the Celery ; that is, if the plant of Celery be eighteen inches high, the trench should be dug eighteen inches deep. The Celery is then packed exactly in the manner described for storing in boxes to be placed in the cellar; that is, stand it as nearly upright as possible, and pack as closely together as can be done without bruising it. As the weather becomes cold, the trenches should be gradually covered with leaves or litter to the thickness of six or eight inches, which will be enough to Fig. 119.— STORING CELERY IN TRENCHES FOB WINTER. prevent severe freezing, and enable the roots to be taken out easily when wanted. Figure 119 represents this method of storing Celery in trenches for winter use. The best varieties of Celery for family use I believe to be the four described below : White Plume, introduced by me in 1884, is now perhaps more largely grown than any other Celery, and possesses all the best qualities of the best of the old kinds. It has the great merit of being nearly self- blanching, as in its natural growth, without being earthed up, the inner stems and leaves are white, and nearly fit for use without being blanched artificially. CELERY. 323 The flavoi, uowever, is much improved by blanching, so that it is necessary to at least handle and earth up this variety to half its hight to get the best results. AD other Fig. 120.— HENDERSON'S WHITE PLUME CELEBT. great merit of the White Plume Celery is that, while being unsurpassed in flavor, it excels all other vegetables 324 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. as an ornament for the dinner table, its graceful white leaves resembling somewhat an ostrich feather. We sent samples of it to all the leading hotels in New York the present season, from all of which we had the most flatter- ing testimonials of its excellence. Sandringham. — This is a dwarf, full-hearted kind, and, when it does well, is one of the very best, equaled by none in fact ; but it has a great tendency to rust or burn, which impairs its value. A new sport from this, known as the Gulden Self -Blanching, is somewhat of an improvement on the Sandringham. For general use the Golden Dwarf comes next in merit to the White Plume. It is a short-growing or half-dwarf sort, with yellowish heart, solid and crisp. A variety introduced by us in 1886, called the Rose, is the best of all the Bed or Pink Celeries. The red kinds are used nearly exclusively in the London markets, as they are certainly more crisp and better flavored than any of the white kinds, besides being hardier and less liable to rot in winter ; but, so far, they are comparatively little used in this country. While we sell nearly a thou- sand pounds of seed each of such kinds as White Plume and Golden Dwarf annually, we do not, as yet, sell one- tenth of that quantity of the Red. CELERIAC, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY (Apium graveolens var.). This is grown almost the same as the common Celery ; and as it requires but little earthing-up, the rows may be nearer together. Its turnip-like root is used as a salad, mostly by the French and Germans. It is some- times stewed, but usually simply boiled, sliced, and dressed as a salad for the table. CORN-SALAD OR FETTICUS ( Valerlanella olitoria). This is sold to a considerable extent in spring in the city markets for use as an early salad. For mode of cul- CHIVES— CHESS— CDltX. 325 tivation, etc., see Spinach, as it is grown in exactly the same manner. CHIVES (Allium Scluenoprasum). An entirely hardy, onion-like plant, of easy culture. It will grow on almost any soil for years without being transplanted. The leaves are the part used, and may be shorn off every two weeks during summer. It is propa- gated by tearing apart the old clumps and setting the divisions in rows a foot apart. CRESS OR PEPPER GRASS (Lepidlum sativum). A spring and summer salad plant. Sow in early spring, and in succession every week or so if desired, in rows one foot apart. The curled variety is the best, as it can be used for garnishing as well as for salad. CRESS, WATER (Nasturtium offlcinale). A hardy aquatic plant, which can only be properly cul- tivated where there are running streams. If there is a brook on the "place, all that would be wanted for private use may be had by setting a few plants or sowing seeds in spring on the margin of the water. There is a variety recently introduced known as "Upland Cress," that can be grown in an ordinary garden. It is almost identical in flavor with, the Water Cress. CORN (Zea Mays). The varieties known as "Sweet" are the kinds culti- vated to be used in the green state. Corn may either be planted in " hills" (dropping three or four seeds in a hill) four feet apart each way, or in rows five feet apart, drop- ping the seeds at distances of eight or ten inches in the rows. In this latitude it is useless to plant Corn before the middle of May. For successional crops it should be GABDENLNG FOR PLEASURE. CUCUMBER. 3&, planted every two or three weeks until July first. After that date it will not mature here. Corn requires a rich, light soil to be earl}'. The leading varieties are shown in figure 121. Three or four quarts are required, if Guccessional crops are sown. If only one crop, two or three pints will be sufficient for an ordinary family. CUCUMBER (Cucumis satitws). In most places where the Cucumber is grown out- doors, it is more or less troubled with the "Striped Bug ; " but if only a few dozen hills are cultivated, it is not a very troublesome matter to pick them off, which is about the only sure way to get rid of them. The safest method of raising Cucumbers, however, is to cover the seeds, when first sown, with the hand-glass described in the chapter on •'Implements," which, by the time they are wanted for Cucumbers, are no longer needed over Cauliflowers. If such hand-glasses are not obtainable, a simple method is to use a light box ten or twelve inches square, and place it over the seeds after sowing, covering it with a pane of glass. This will not only forward the ger- mination of the seeds, but will protect the plants against the bugs until they are strong enough not to be injured by them. Bryant's Plant Protec- tor, a simple article, made of light strips of wood covered Fi£- 123- r . ... BRYANT'S PLANT PROTECTOR. with mosquito netting, may be used instead of a hand-glass. This will be found equally- valuable for protecting all plants liable to the attacks of flying insects, and against the light frosts so often injurious to tender plants. Light, sandy soil is rather best for Cucumbers. The "hills" should 328 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. be prepared in the same manner as for Lima Beans, but set three feet apart, dropping five or six seeds in each hill. Cucumbers may be sown about the middle of May, and in succession, every three or four weeks, until July. The White Spine and Long Green Prickly are favorite varieties. The Gherkin or Burr is by some used for pickling. FORCING CUCUMBERS. — The forcing house shown at page 267 as suitable for Strawberry forcing, can be made equally available for forcing Cucumbers, either during the entire winter or spring season, or to succeed the early forced crops of vegetables or fruits in spring. If wanted for forcing Cucumbers during the fall or winter, the seed should be sown in the greenhouse in October or November, in small pots, three or four seeds in each, and thinning out to one strong plant. These, if grown in a temperature averaging seventy-five degrees, will in thirty days have become sufficiently strong to plant out at twenty-four inches apart on the south side of the bench, one row only. A trellis of galvanized iron wire is made with about a nine-inch mesh, diamond shaped. This, on the middle bench, should be kept two feet from the glass, but on the front bench it can only be kept one foot, owing to its nearness to the glass. The depth of soil should be, if on raised wooden benches, about five or six inches ; if on the solid center bed, ten to fifteen inches. The soil should be a sandy loam, with one-fifth well-rotted cow manure. The night tem- perature in the forcing-house for the fall, winter, and spring months for Cucumbers, should range as near as possible from sixty to sixty-five degrees, with a tempera- ture on bright days of from ten to fifteen degrees higher, giving ventilation at all reasonable times. Cucumbers delight in a moist atmosphere, and whenever the weather is bright and clear, water should be sprinkled on the pipes, walks, and under tho benches, A dry atmosphere CUCUMBER. 329 is certain to develop the Red Spider, which is fatal to success. It may also be here stated, if Cucumbers are to be forced during the winter months, that, to keep up the necessary high temperature, eight runs of four-inch pipes will be required in a greenhouse twenty feet wide. Although there is no necessity for artificial impregna- tion of the Cucumber flowers when grown in the open air, where the insects and winds do the work, yet, when grown in the forcing house, it is absolutely necessary, particularly in midwinter. This is best done with a camel's hair pencil, by detaching the pollen, or fertilizing dust, from the stamens and applying it to the stigma. It will also facilitate impregnation on bright days to slightly jar the Avire trellis, so as to let the pollen loose, which, in floating through the air, fastens on the stigma. The Cucumber and all plants of that class have the male and female flowers separate on the same plant. Cucumbers from seed sown in October will give a continuous crop until June — of course, if well handled. When wanted only to succeed crops of forced Lettuce, Eadishes, or Strawberries in spring, the seed should not be sown until February or March. The variety for forcing which seems to be most favorably received in our markets is Selected Early White Spine, though, of late years, the beautiful long kinds, such as Telegraph and Rambler, which are almost exclusively used in Europe for forcing, are beginning to be favorably received. Although Cucumbers are now to be found in our markets at nearly all seasons of the year, grown at the south, yet they never have the fine appearance nor the delicate flavor of those grown by being forced under glass ; so that large areas of forcing houses for this and other vegetable and fruit crops are now profitably used in all our large cities, though coming in direct compe- tition with Southern products. 330 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. EGG PLANT (Solatium Melongena). This is always an interesting vegetable to cultivate, being worthy of a place as an ornamental plant, as well as being much prized for culinary use. It is a native of the tropics, and peculiarly tender. We find the seeds will not germinate freely below a temperature of seventy degrees ; and even then often tardily, unless the condi- tions are just right. Nothing suits them so well as a warm hot-bed ; and to get plants of the proper size to be set in the open ground by the end of May, the seeds should be sown early in March, and the plants potted into small pots when an inch or so in hight. But as only a dozen or two plants are needed for a family, when- ever the plants can be purchased conveniently, it is never worth the trouble to attempt the raising of them from seeds, unless, indeed, there is room in a hot-bed, or a hot-house used for other purposes. Do not plant out sooner, in this latitude, than the 25th of May, unless they can be protected by hand-glasses. Set at distances of four feet apart, preparing the hills as described for Lima Beans. Each plant should average a dozen fruits, which will weigh from ten to forty ounces each. The best flavored variety, in our opinion, is the Black Pekin, but the most prolific is the New York Market. A pure pearly white variety is highly ornamental, and also of excellent flavor. There is also a beautiful scarlet variety, sometimes grown as a greenhouse ornament. The Egg Plant is usually fried in slices ; but there are other methods to be found in the proper authorities on such matters. ENDIVE (CicJwrium Endivia). A plant related to the Lettuce. If sown in early spring, either in a hot-bed or in the open ground in April, it will be ready in May. Set out at distances of fifteen HERBS — GARLIC— HORSERADISH. 331 inches apart. It is mostly used towards fall, however, and when wanted at that time, should be sown in June or July, and set out in August or September. Nothing further is done after planting but hoeiug to keep down the weeds, until it attains its full growth, which is from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter. It is then "blanched," either by gathering up the leaves and tying them by their tops in a conical form, or by placing a slate or flat stone on the plant to exclude the light and effect the blanching. It is used as a salad. The varie- ties are the Moss Curled and Plain-leaved Batavian. HERBS, SWEET. Thyme, Sage, Basil, Sweet Marjoram, and Summer Savory are those in general use. The seeds of all should be sown in shallow drills, one foot apart, in May, and the plants will be fit for use in September and October. GARLIC (Allium sativum). This is used mostly by Europeans. It grows freely on any soil. The sets, obtained by breaking up the old bulbs, are planted in early spring in rows one foot apart, and five or six inches between the plants. When the leaves wither, the bulbs are taken up and hung in a dry, cool place. HORSERADISH (Cochlcaria Armoracea). For family use a few roots of this should be planted in some out-of-the-way corner of the vegetable garden. A dozen roots, once planted, will usually give enough for a lifetime, as it increases and spreads so that there is never any danger of being without it. The trouble is, if it is once admitted into the garden, it is difficult to be got rid of, if so desired. 332 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. KOHLRABI. OR TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE (Brassica okracea var.). This vegetable resembles a Turnip, but is regarded as a variety of the Cabbage, with a fleshy, edible stem. Seeds should be sown in rows fifteen or eighteen inches apart, in May or June, and when an inch high, thinned out to nine or ten inches. It is a favorite vegetable with the Germans, and immense quantities are sold in the markets of New York. There are two varieties, White and Purple. LEEK (Attium Fbrrum). Sow in April, and plant out in June or July, in rows one foot apart and six inches between the plants. It is used mainly during the winter months. It is an entirely hardy plant ; yet, in order that it may be handy to get at in winter, it is better to put it in trenches or boxes, as advised for preserving Celery. LETTUCE (Lactuca saliva). Lettuce should be sown in a hot-bed or greenhouse, if wanted early. Seeds sown there in .February will give Fig. 123. — BLACK-SEEDED SIMPSON LETTC7CE. nice plants to set out in April, to mature in May; or, if it is sown in the open ground in April and planted out in MARTYNIA — MELOX. May, it will mature in June, and so on through the sum- mer season if successional crops are desired, as it only takes from five to six weeks to mature. The great excel- lence of Lettuce consists in its freshness, and it can rarely be purchased in perfect con- dition ; hence, those who would enjoy it in its best state should raise it them- selves. For early use, to be ready in May, the Curled Silesia and Boston Market are the best; while for sum- mer use the Salamander, New York, and Black-seed- ed Simpson (figure 123) should be sown, as they do not readily run to seed. The Cos varieties are mainly used in Europe, and are by far the best flavored ; but, from their tendency to run to seed in our warmer climate, are but little cultivated, though they might be safely grown in the cool weather, in spring or in fall. Although usually transplanted, the seed is also sown in rows, and the plants thinned out to twelve inches apart. An ounce of seed of each variety will be ample. MARTTNIA (Martynia proboscidea). The unripe pods, when perfectly tender, are used for pickling. They must be gathered every day or two, or some will become hard and useless. Sow in open ground in May, in drills two feet apart, and thin out to one foot. MELON, MUSK (Cucumis Melo). The cultivation of the Melon is almost identical with that of the Cucumber, to which reference may be made. Fie;. 124. PARIS WHITE COS LETTUCE. 334 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE. The varieties are numerous, those named below being the most popular at the date I write. Early Hackensack, Fig. 125. — BALTIMORE MTT8K MELON. Baltimore (figure 125), and Montreal Market (figure 126). (For illustrations and descriptions see seed lists.) 126. — MONTREAL MARKET MUSK MELON. MELON, WATER (Citrullus vulgaris). The cultivation of the Water Melon is in all respects similar to that of the Musk Melon, except that, being a MELON— MUSTARD. 335 larger and stronger growing plant, it requires to be planted at greater distances. The hills should not be less than eight feet apart each way. It delights in a light, sandy soil, and will not grow satisfactorily on heavy, clayey soils. The leading sorts are named, as usual, in Fig. 127. — SCALY BABK WATER MELON. the order of what I consider to be their excellence, and are of the kinds most approved at the date of writing. Phinney's Early, Rattlesnake or Gypsy, Ironclad Mam- moth, and Scaly Bark. '' Green and Gold," an entirely new and excellent variety, with golden yellow flesh, will be sent out by us the present season (1888). (For illus- trations and descriptions, see seed catalogues.) MUSTARD (Sinapis alba). For use and cultivation see Cress. 336 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. MUSHROOM (Agm-icus campestris). Many who have a taste for horticultural pursuits grow Mushrooms as much for the novelty of the thing as for use; for it is certainly very gratifying for an amateur to find that he has succeeded with a crop of this curious vegetable in mid-winter, when everything outside is frost-locked and snow-bound. I have said that the nov- elty is attractive ; for in growing all other plants the cultivator sees something tangible to start with, either seeds, plants, or roots, but with the Mushroom it may be said he sees none of these; for no seeds can be discov- ered either with the naked eye or with a magnifier, and it requires some faith to believe the minute, thread-like substance we call "spawn " to be either plants or roots. Mushrooms are always raised in the dark, and any cel- lar, stable, or an out-house of any sort, wherein a temper- ature of forty-five to sixty-five degrees can be commanded, will grow them. There are various methods followed by Mushroom growers, but I will only give two, premising that, if the directions given are strictly followed, success is just as certain as in growing a crop of Peas or Potatoes. Let horse droppings be procured from the stables each day, in quantities not less than a barrow load. To every barrow load of droppings add one-fourth the quantity of fresh loam from a pasture or sod land, or soil of any kind that has not been manured (the objection to old manured soil being that it may contain the spores of spurious fungi). Let the droppings and soil be mixed together day by day, as the manure can be procured ; or, if they can be had all at once in sufficient quantity, so much the better. Let the heap (which should be under cover, so as not to get wet) be turned every day, so that it is not allowed to heat violently until you have got together a sufficient quantity to form a bed of the desired size. From the prepared droppings and soil, begin to form MUSHROOM. 337 the bed. A convenient width is four feet, and the length may be as great as desired. First spread a thin layer of the compost, pounding it down firmly with a brick or mallet, layer after layer, until it reaches a depth of eight inches. Be careful that the thickness is just about eight inches, as, if more, it would heat too violently, and if less, it would not heat enough. Into this bed plunge a thermometer. In two or three days the bed will heat, so that the thermometer will rise to one hun- dred degrees or over. As soon as the temperature de- clines to ninety degrees, take a sharp stick and make Fig. 138.— MtTSHBOOMS. holes an inch or so in diameter all over the bed, at about a foot apart and six inches deep. Into these holes drop two or three pieces of "spawn," and cover up the holes again with the compost of which the bed is made, and beat it slightly again, so that the bed will present the same level surface as before the spawn was put in. Let the bed remain in this condition for ten or twelve days, by which time the spawn will have run all through it. Now spread evenly over the surface of the bed about two inches of fresh loam, press it down moderately with the 338 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. back of a spade, and cover up the bed with hay or straw to the thickness of three or four inches. If this operation is finished in November or December, and the place has an average temperature of fifty-five de- grees, you may look for a crop in January or February. The bed will continue bearing about three or four weeks, and the crop is usually enormous, often producing a bushel on two square yards of space. After the first crop is gathered, a second, and even a third, can be taken, if desired, from the same bed without further trouble than to spread a little fresh soil on the surface, giving it a gentle watering, and covering up with hay as before. Great care must be taken that, after placing the spawn in the newly-made bed, the earth covering is not put on sooner than ten or twelve days. In my first attempt at Mushroom growing I failed two years in succession, be- cause I pub on the soil when the spawn was first put into the bed. By so doing, the steam arising from the manure was prevented from passing off, and the result was, that the spawn rotted. I believe this very common error is the cause of most of the failures in raising Mushrooms. Another method of raising Mushrooms in winter in cold cellars, or other places where there is no artificial heat, is as follows, given by John Cullen, of Bethlehem, Penn., whose success in Mushroom growing has been unfailing. " My Mushroom cellar is a structure fifteen feet long and twelve feet wide. Formerly it was a water cistern, but with a little alteration was easily converted into a Mushroom cellar. My plan of culture is as follows : In September manure from horse stables is collected in a heap, and to that is added one-fifth of soil. To prevent overheating it is turned over three times a week for a month. By that time the violent heat is subdued. "Making the Beds. — Having obtained a sufficiency of horse droppings for a bed, in the right condition, that is, MUSHROOM. 339 rather dry, and turned soas to expel the violent heat, a layer four inches thick is placed on the floor of the cellar and beaten down firmly. Another layer of the same thickness is added, and the same beating process carried out, and so on till the bed is made of sufficient thickness. I make my beds fifteen inches in depth when artificial heat can be obtained of fifty degrees, but in cold cellars the bed should be at least eighteen inches. "Spawning the Bed. — I spawn my beds when the tem- perature declines to eighty-five degrees at about three inches under the surface, though the heat in the centre of the bed may be one hundred degrees. The spawn is broken in pieces of about one and a half to two inches, and I insert them about seven inches apart each way, and so deep as to admit of being covered about an inch with the same material as the bed is composed of, firming it well about and over the spawn. "Soiling the Bed. — This is done in eight days from the time of spawning. I put two inches of fine loam all over the bed. making it firm by beating it well with the back of the spade, damping the surface, and passing the back of the spade over it at the last to give a smooth finish to it. As soon as the soil is placed on the bed a covering of hay is placed over it rather thinly, doubling it as the heat declines. "Gathering the Crop. — In six weeks from the time of soiling I usually gather my first crop of Mushrooms, and cut from ten to twelve pounds weekly from a space of two hundred square feet, or, for the whole crop, an average of about one pound per square foot, some of them measuring five inches in diameter. In gathering I draw the Mushrooms out of the bed with a twist, so ac not to disturb the roots remaining, after- ward filling the holes with some fresh loam. Water about ten degrees warmer than the cellar is applied when the surface of the bed becomes dry." 340 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE. NASTURTIUM, INDIAN CRESS (Tropceolum majus). A highly ornamental plant, cultivated i:i flower gardens as well as in the kitchen garden. The shoots and flowers are sometimes used in salads, but it is mainly grown for its .fruit or seed pods, which are pickled in vinegar and used as a substitute for capers. The plant is of the easiest culture. Sow in shallow drills in May. The tall variety will reach a hight of ten or fifteen feet if fur- nished with strings or wires, and makes an excellent screen for shade, or for quickly covering up and conceal- ing any unsightly place. The dwarf variety is grown like Peas, and staked with brush, or grown on the garden trellis. OKRA OR GUMBO (Abelmoschus esculcntus). A vegetable of the easiest culture. Sow in drills in May, three feet apart for dwarf and four feet for tall sorts, in drills two or three inches deep. The long pods, when very young and tender, are used in soups, stews, etc., and are very nutritious. ONION (AUium cepa). Onions are raised either from ''sets," which are small dry Onions grown the previous year, or from seeds. When grown from the sets, they should be planted out as early in spring as the ground is dry enough to work. Plant them in rows one foot apart, with the sets three or four inches apart. When raised from sets, the Onions can be used in the green state in June, or they will be ripened off by July. When raised from seeds, these are sown at about the same distance between the rows, and when the young plants are an inch or so high, they are thinned out to two or three inches apart. It is important that Onion seed be sown very early. In this latitude it should be sown not later than the middle of oxiox. 341 April ; for, if delayed until May, warm weather sets in and delays, or rather prolongs the growth until fall, and often the bulbs will not ripen. We find that, unless the Onion tops dry off and the bulbs ripen by August, they will hardly do so later. The best known sorts are Early Flat Red, Yellow Globe Danvers, and JSouthport White Globe. The Italian kinds best suited for the Southern States are White Queen and Eed Giant Rocca. Two kinds are grown exclusively from bulbs. One of Fig. 129.— SOUTHPORT WHITE GLOBE ONION. these is the Potato Onion, or "Multiplier," which in- creases by the bulb splitting up and dividing itself into six or eight smaller bulbs, which in turn form the sets to plant for the next crop. The other variety is what is called the Top Onion, which forms little bulbs on the stem in the place of flowers. These bulbs are in clusters, and about the size of hazel nuts. The bulbs are broken 342 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. apart, and planted in spring at the same distances as the '•sets" referred to on page 340. All mature in August. PARSLEY (Apium Petroselinwri). But a very small quantity of this is usually wanted in the family garden. Sow in shallow drills in April or May. A good plan is to sow in shallow boxes as much as may be needed. They can be placed wherever there is mod- erate light and no frost, in the kitchen window or similar place. By this means a fresh supply may be kept on hand in hard winter weather, when it is most desirable to have it, either for garnishing dishes or for other uses. The best variety to grow is the Moss or Double Curled. PARSNIP (FtLstinaca sativa). For the mode of cultivation of Parsnips, see Carrot, as their culture is identical, except that this, being hardy, can be left out in winter, while in this latitude Carrots cannot. A portion of the crop may be dug and stored in the cellar or in trenches, and the remainder may be left until spring. The Hollow Crowned is best for general use. PEA (Pisum sativum). The Pea is indispensable in the garden, and there is more satisfaction in growing it on one's own ground than there is in raising any other vegetable. If too old when picked, or stale, which is too often the case when purchased from the dealers, Peas have but little resem- blance to those taken directly from the vines. For an early crop Peas should be one of the first things sown in the spring. We prefer to sow in double rows, which saves half the labor in staking or bushing up, and gives nearly the same crop to 'the row as if sown in single rows. PEA. 343 344 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Double rows are made at eight or nine inches apart, and four feet from other rows. Set a line, and draw the drills three or four inches deep with a hoe. The seed should be sown, as nearly as possible, an inch or so apart. In order to have a succession of crops of Peas, they should be sown every two or three weeks until July. If successioual crops are grown, an average quan- tity for a family would be twelve quarts ; if only first crops of early and late, from four to six quarts will be sufficient. The new Pea Vine Trellis, described in the chapter on "Implements," is the most valuable acquisition to Pea growing ever introduced. We used it the past season on over two thousand feet of row in our trial ground with the most gratifying results, finding it not only much better for the purpose than the ordinary "pea stakes" cut from the woods, but far more sightly; and taking into con- sideration that the pea vine trellis may be used for ? dozen years, it is actually cheaper. The varieties of Peas are almost innumerable, and new sorts — or at least sorts with new names — are sent out every year. They may be classed in two groups, the round and the wrinkled Peas. The round varieties are the earliest, but they are as much inferior to the wrinkled or marrow kinds as field is to sweet corn. These two groups are subdivided according to hight. The earliest round Pea we have found to be a selection made by us, and sent out in 1883 under the name of First of .All. The earliest wrinkled variety is the American Wonder (figure 130). These two are really all that are needed for private use for early, while for successional or late kinds, Champion of England (figure 131) and Telephone seem yet the best. But all seed catalogues now give very full illustrations and descriptions of new kinds, which are being yearly in- troduced, and to which mv readers are referred. PEA. 345 346 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. PEPPER OR CAPSICUM ('Japsieum annuum). The Pepper is sown and cultivated in all respects the same us the Egg Plant, which may be referred to. The leading varieties are the Bull Nose or Bell (scarlet), the Golden Dawn (yellow), and the Long Rod Cayenne. POTATO (Solanum tuberosum). Potatoes are grown by planting the tubers, either cut or whole, it makes but little difference which. If large, cut them ; if small, leave them uncut. They are usually planted in drills three feet apart, and four or five inches deep. The ground should be prepared by first spreading in the drills a good coat of stable manure, say two inches deep, upon which are planted the tubers or sets, at dis- tances of eight or ten inches apart. In a warm exposure planting may be begun early in April, and the crop will be fit for use in June. Some of the small-leaved varieties, such as the Ash-leaved Kidney, were formerly grown under hand glasses, or in frames, to forward them; but now this is hardly worth the trouble, as our supplies from southern latitudes are so early that it is no longer desir- able to force the crop. The generally favorite variety for early crops is still the Early Rose. Among other greatly improved sorts for the general crop are Early Puritan, Vanguard, and Beauty of Hebron ; but there are scores of other varieties which have a special or local reputation. PUMPKIN (CucurWa Ftpo). Pumpkins are still grown in many gardens with a te- nacity that is astonishing, when it should long ago have been known that they have no business there, as their first cousins, the Squashes, are eminently superior for every culinary purpose whatever. The Pumpkin is a valuable product for the farm, as a food for cattle, but RADISH— RHUBARB. 347 for nothing else. If people will waste valuable land in raising Pumpkins, they may plant them the same as di- rected for Squashes. RADISH (Raplianus sativus). One of the first vegetables that we crave in spring is the Radish, and it is so easy of culture that every family can have it fresh, crisp, and in abundance. A garden patch of a few feet square will give enough for an ordi- nary family. It is sown either in drills or broadcast, care being taken that the seed is not put in too thickly; from one to two inches apart, either in drill or broadcast, being the proper distance, as usually every seed germi- nates. The best varieties are the Red and French Turnip, and the Short Top Long, Red or White. Some beautiful fancy kinds have been recently introduced, equally as crisp and well flavored as the older sorts, and which are very ornamental for the table besides. The most marked are the Round White-tipped Turnip Radish and the Long Chartier. white tipped. If wanted specially early, the above sorts are best for hot-bed forcing ; for summer and winter use the yellow and gray varieties are preferred. RHUBARB OR PIE-PLANT (Rheum Rhaponticum), Rhubarb may be planted in either fall or spring, using either plants raised from the seed, or sets obtained by di- vision of the old roots, taking care to have a bud to each. Set at distances of three or four feet apart each way. The place where each plant is to be set should be dug eighteen inches deep and the same in width, and the soil mixed with two or three shovelfuls of well-rotted stable manure. Two dozen strong plants will be enough for the wants of an average family. If desired in winter or early spring, a few roots can be taken up and placed 348 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. in a warm cellar or any such dark and warm place. The roots, if the cellar is dark, may be put in a box with earth around them, or, if in a light cellar, they may be put in the bottom of a barrel with earth, and the top covered. The only care needed is to see that the roots do not get too dry, though water is rarely necessary when the plants are placed in a dark cellar. The useful por- tions are the long and thick leaf-stalks, and these, when Fig. 132.— ST. MARTIN'S RHUBARB. forced, are much finer in flavor than when grown exposed to air and light in the open garden. The plants in the open ground should have the flower stalks cut away as they appear. In gathering do not cut the leaf stalks, as they will readily come away by a sidewise pull, and leave no remnant to decay. The varieties are Myatt's, Linnaeus, Victoria, and the new variety known as St. Martin's (figure 132), which has a distinct gooseberry flavor. SALSIFY— SEA KALE. 349 SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT ( Tragopogon porrifolius). The culture of this vegetable is the same in all respects as for Carrots, which see. Like the Parsnip, it is hardy, and can be left out during winter in any district without injury from frost. It is rapidly becoming more popular. It is stewed like Parsnips or Carrots, is used to make soup, which has a decided flavor of the oyster, or is first parboiled and then fried. There is but one kind. SCORZONERA OR BLACK SALSIFY (Scorzonera Hispantca). This is somewhat different in flavor from Salsify, and is preferred to it by many. It has much broader leaves, but is cultivated and used in the same manner. SEA KALE (Crambe mantima). Sea Kale is a favorite vegetable in European gardens, but here, as yet, almost unknown. Anticipating that at no distant day it may be as generally cultivsit^d as it de- serves to be, I briefly describe the mode of culture. The seeds of Sea Kale should be sown in the greenhouse, or in a slight hot-bed in February or March, and when the plants are an inch or two in hight, they should be potted in two or three-inch pots, and placed in a cold frame to harden, until sufficiently strong to be planted in the open ground. They should then be set out in rows three feet apart, with two feet between the plants, on land en- riched as for any ordinary cabbage crop. If the plants and the soil in which they have been planted are both good, and cultivation has been properly attended to, by keeping the plants well hoed during the summer, they will have "crowns" strong enough to give a crop the next season. In the northern states it will be necessary to cover the TOAVS with three or four inches of leaves, to pro- tect the plants from frost. Sea Kale is only fit for use 350 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. when " blanched ;" and to effect this, on the approach of spring the " crowns " should be covered with some light material, such as sand or leaf mold, to the depth of twelve or fifteen inches, so that the young shoots, being thus excluded from the light, will become blanched in growing through this covering. Sometimes cans made for the purpose, or large flower pots, or even wooden boxes, are inverted over the plants, the object in each case being to exclude the light. If it is desired to force Sea Kale, or forward it earlier, the materials used to make hot- beds, leaves or stable manure, are heaped over the pots or cans in a sufficient quantity to gener- ate the proper heat to forward or force on the growth of the plants. The young shoots are cut from the plant before the leaves are developed, and when cooked, have a flavor something between Asparagus and Cauliflower, but by most persons much preferred to either. The engraving (6gure 133) shows young shoots when ready for the table. SHALLOTS (Allium Ascalonicum). A plant of the Onion genus, which is cultivated by set- ting out the divided bulbs in September in rows a foot apart, allowing six inches between them. It is entirely hardy, and fit for use in early spring. SPINACH (Spinacia olei-acea). Spinach is a vegetable of easy culture. The seed may be sown either in spring or fall. If in the fall, the proper time is from the 10th to the 25th of September, in rows one foot Fig. 133. — SEA KALE. SPINACH. 351 apart. Sow rather thickly. Cover the plants with two or three inches of hay or leaves on the approach of severe frost in December. When sown in the fall, the crop, of course, is ready for use much earlier than when sown in the spring, as half the growth is made in the fall months. By the time the seed can be sown in the spring, the crop that has been wintered over will becom- ing into use. To follow the crop thus wintered, seeds should be sown in the same manner in the spring, as early as the soil can be worked, and another sowing may be made two weeks later. The variety known as Savoy- leaved is best for winter, and Thick-leaved for spring. About four ounces are enough for ordinary wants for either season's sowing. SPINACH, SUBSTITUTES FOE. In the southern states, or even in our northern sum- mers, Spinach runs rapidly to seed if sown in hot weather, and several plants may be used as substitutes. Among these are Swiss Chard, a species of Beet, some- times called Spinach Beet, or Perpetual Spinach. Young plants of the ordinary Beet are by some preferred to Spinach. Ordinarily Beets need thinning, and the seed is sometimes sown very thickly, in order that there may be an abundance of thinnings to use as Spinach, or Beet greens. They are used with the young Beet attached, which should not be thickerthan an ordinary lead pencil. If larger, the leaves will be too strong. Another substi- tute is NEW ZEALAND SPINACH (Tetragonia expansa). This is a remarkable plant, of low, branching habit, and grows with surprising luxuriance during hot weather. Single plants often spread from five to eight feet in diameter. The leaves are used exactly as ordinary Spin- ach. The seed should not be sown before warm weather 352 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. sets in in May, and the plants should be set out in hills three or four feet apart each way. SQUASH (Cucurbita Pcpo and C. maxima). The summer varieties are, among others, the White and Yellow Bush and Summer Crookneck. As with all plants of this class, it is useless to sow the seeds before warm weather in May, and the directions given for Cu- cumbers and Melons are alike applicable to the Squash, except the distances apart of the hills, which should be from three to four feet for the bush sorts, and from six to eight for the other varieties, which "run "or make a long vine. The fall or winter Squashes are planted at the same time, but are allowed to mature or ripen, while Fig. 134.— ESSEX HYBRID SQUASH. the summer varieties are used green. They are usually planted eight or nine feet apart, in hills prepared in the usual way. These Squashes are great feeders, and for the best results the soil should be well enriched, besides the special manuring in the hills, as the vines throw out roots at every joint to assist in feeding and maturing the heavy crop they usually bear. The popular varieties are the Essex Hybrid (figure 134), Hubbard (figure 135), Marblehead, and Mammoth Chili. (For descriptions and SWEET POTATO. 353 illustrations, see seed catalogues.) Most of the winter varieties, if kept in a dry atmosphere at a temperature from forty to fifty degrees, will keep until May. A garret Fig. 135.— HUBBARD SQUASH. room in a moderately well-heated dwelling house will often be a very suitable place for storing them. SWEET POTATO (Iponvw Batatas). It is useless to attempt to grow the Sweet Potato on anything but a light and dry soil. On clayey soils the plant not only grows poorly, but the potatoes raised upon such soil are watery and poorly flavored. The plants are raised by laying the roots on their sides on a hot-bed or the bench of a greenhouse, and covering them over with sand, about the first week in May. By keeping up an average temperature of seventy-five or eighty degrees, fine plants will be produced by June 1st, at which time they should be planted in this vicinity. The plants are set in hills three feet apart each way, or on ridges four feet apart, and twelve or fifteen inches between the plants, drawing the earth up to them as they grow, until 354 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. the top of the ridge or hill is four or six inches above the level. The soil under the ridges should be highly manured, and as the vines grow they should be kept clear of weeds. When, late in the season, they show a disposi- tion to root at the joints, they must be moved every week or so. This is easily done by running a rake handle or TOMATO. 355 other stick under the vines, and lifting them sufficiently to draw out the small roots upon the stem. As is the case with many other vegetables of Avhich the plants or sets are raised in large quantities for sale, it is better and cheaper, when Sweet Potato plants are procurable, to purchase them, than to attempt to raise the small number required in a private garden. A hundred plants, not costing more than a dollar, are all that most families would require. The Nansemond is the favorite variety. TOMATO (Lycopersicum esculentum). If any vegetable is grown in a family garden, it is almost certain to be the Tomato. Hundreds of people who have only a few feet of ground at their disposal, manage to cultivate a dozen or two of Tomato plants, Fig. 137.— PERFECTION TOMATO. though they may have nothing else. So well is it knowi^ that I think few of my readers will require to be told much about its culture. The Tomato will grow any- where, and under almost any circumstances, provided 356 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. always that it has the necessary high temperature. It is essentially a plant of the tropics, and need never be sown in a hot-bed here before March, or planted in the open ground before the middle of May. When grown in pri- vate gardens, the Tomato should always be provided with some sort of trellis (see description of Pea Vine Trellis in chapter on "Implements," and also figure 136), or be tacked up against a fence or wall. By this treatment, not only will a heavier crop be obtained, but the flavor will be better. When the fruit rests on the ground it has often an inferior flavor, particularly when eaten raw, and is also more apt to decay. A few dozen plants usually suffice for an ordinary fam- ily; and if there are no hot- beds or other glass arrange- ments on hand, the plants had better be purchased, as they are sold cheaply every- where. The favorite varieties are the new Mikado, Acme, Perfection (figure 137), Par- agon, Trophy (all scarlet or crimson), and the Yellow Trophy, besides the Red and Yellow Plum Tomatoes, used for pickling and preserves. TURNIP (Brassica campestris). The Turnip, if wanted for an early crop, is sown in Fig.l38.-WHiTE EGG TinniF. early spring> ag directefl for Beets. The best sorts are the varieties known as White and Purple-top Strap-leaved, White Egg (figure 138), and Early Milan (figure 139). If for winter or fall 8UCCESSIOXAL CROPS OF VEGETABLES. 357 use, sowing should be deferred until July or August. The RuU Baga or Swedes are sown in July, and* the Fig. 139.— EXTRA EARLY MILAN TCBNIP. earlier winter sorts, such as Yellow Globe or Flat Dutch, in August. SUCCESSIONAL CROPS OF VEGETABLES. To get the full benefit of fresh vegetables during the entire season, it is necessary to sow or plant successional crops every two or three weeks, particularly with such crops as Bush Beans, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Sweet Corn, Cress, Cucumber, Lettuce, Peas, Eadish, Spinach, and Turnip. Even small areas of ground, if well manured, may double or treble the crop if judiciously sown or planted. For example, the ground first sown in Eadishes, Spinach, Turnip, or Lettuce, in April, will have ripened these crops so that the ground can be cleared, dug np, and manured, and again used by the first of June, when such crops as Sweet Corn, Cucumbers, Peas, or Tomatoes can be planted, and so on all through the list, and thus from May to October the table can be daily supplied with fresh vegetables for a moderate sized family, even from a quarter of an acre of ground, if labor is given sufficient to sow one crop after another has been exhausted. 358 9ABDJOraN FOE In concluding the section 01 this oook devoted to veg- etable growing, we will add a few general ''nstructions that may have been omitted in the details already given. In sowing all kinds of seeds, more particularly those of small size, be careful, if the soil is dry, to "firm''' or press down the surface of the bed or row, after sowing, with the feet, or a light roller, or the back; of a spade, more especially if the weather is beginning to get warm. Crops are often lost through the failure of the seeds to germinate, for the simple reason that the soil is left loose about the tiny seeds, and the dry atmosphere penetrates to them, shriveling them up until all vitality is destroyed. We sow nearly all vegetable crops in rows, and in every case, as soon as the seed is sown, it is pressed down in the drill with the foot, then covered up level by the back of a rake drawn lengthways with the drills, and again firmed by the roller or back of a spade. For want of this simple precaution, perhaps one-fourth of all seeds sown fail to germinate, and the seedsman is blamed, while the fault is owing entirely to the ignorance or carelessness of the planter. Again, for the same reason, when setting out plants of any kind, be certain that the soil is pressed close to the root. In our large plantings in market gardening, particularly in summer, we make it a rule in dry weather to turn back on the row after planting it with the dibber or trowel, and press the earth firmly to each plant with the foot. We have seen whole acres of Celsry, Cabbage, and Strawberry plants lost solely through neglect of this precaution. Never work the soil while it is so wet as to clog. Better wait a week for it to dry than to stir it if wet. In no work in which men are engaged is the adage, "A stitch in time saves nine," more applicable than to the work of the farm or garden. The instant that weeda GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 359 appear, attack them with the hoe or rake. Do not wait for them to get a foot high, or a twelfth part of it, but break every inch of the surface crust of the ground just so soon as a germ of weed growth shows itself. And it will be better to do it even before any weeds show; for by using a small, sharp steel rake, two or three days after your crop is planted or sown, you will kill the weeds just as they are germinating. The newly developed germ of the strongest weed is at that time very tender. In my market garden operations I had one man whose almost exclusive duty it was to work in summer with the steel rake ; and in a few days after a crop was planted the surface was raked over, destroying the thousands of weeds just ready to appear. Had we waited for the weeds to be seen, so that they were too large to be de- stroyed by the raking, four men could not have done with the hoe the work accomplished by this man with the rake. CHAPTER XLVII. GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. THE tool shed is an important and necessary appendage to a well-kept garden. The following list includes such implements as are generally needed in private gardens: THE WHEELBAHKOW (figure 140). — The wheelbarrow Fig. 140. is an important vehicle in the garden, for the moving of soils, carrying manures, and for conveying the products 360 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. of the vegetable garden to the house or place of storage, and numerous other purposes. It may be purchased of different sizes and styles, or can he "home-made" by those possessing a little mechanical skill. Iron barrows are becoming popular where known. They cost only about one-third more than wooden ones, and they are practically indestructible, quite light, and hang well. THE SPADE (figure 141). — The uses of the spade in a garden are too obvious and general to need description. Fig. 14L Fig. 14-2. Pig. 143. Fig. 144. The best in use are the patent smooth back cast-steel, which are light, strong, and durable, and work clean and bright. THE SHOVEL (figure 142).— The shovel is used for loading, and for mixing and spreading composts and GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 3f»l short manures. They are made with long or short han- dles and round or square points. Those with solid backs and straps on the handle, all in one piece, are the best and strongest, and are much superior to those with riveted backs. THE DIGGING FORK (figure 143), or Forked Spade, is used instead of a spade to dig in manures, to loosen the earth about the roots of trees, or for taking up root crops, being less liable to cut or injure them than the spade. It is much easier to handle than the spade, and by its aid the soil can be more readily broken and pul- verized. These spades are made with four and five tines, the former being the one generally used. An improved pattern has the tines pointed, so that it can be inserted in hard or clayey ground with more ease. THE MANURE FORK (figure 144). — This is used for mixing, loading, and spreading manure, work which could not be efficiently done without it. They are made with either four or five tines, oval or diamond shaped. The oval tined fork is the light- est, and a careful man can handle it with more speed; but it is more easily broken than the diamond tined. The latter should be given to careless hands or used for heavy work. RUBBER HOSE (figure 145). — The usual garden size is three- quarter inch (inside diameter of bore), though one inch hose is sometimes used where a large quantity of water is wanted with little force. A great deal of ro- guery is practised by hose man- ufacturers, who put in composi- FiS- 145- tion material which easily rots, causing the hose to soon 362 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. leak in places, though the hose, when new, can hardly be detected from pure rubber, unless examined by an expert. It is therefore advisable to buy only from those that you can depend upon to give you pure, or nearly pure, rubber hose. Although it costs a little more to begin with, it will outlast the other four times over. A recent intro- duction, known as ''Armored Hose," we have used for over a year. It has wire twisted around the hose, thus saving it from friction in dragging. It looks as if it would be six times more durable than common hose. THE HOSE REEL (figure 146) will be found useful for transporting the hose to various parts of the garden or lawn. It also drains the hose in winding it up, making it last longer. HAND CULTIVATORS (figure 146). — With these imple- ments a great variety of garden work can be done, such as hoeing, cultivating, weeding, making drills, earthing The " Planet Jr." Doubl- Wheel " Hoe, Cultivator, and Plow. Fig. 146. up, etc., and with greater speed and more ease than with an ordinary hand hoe. THE COMMON OR DRAW HOE (figure 147).— There are several patterns of draw hoes, but the one in general use GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 363 is the common square hoe, as represented in the figure. Its uses in the garden are manifold, and it has frequently to do duty for several other implements. Its principal Fig. 147. uses are to clean the surface of the grounds from weeds, to open drills for seeds, and to cover them. THE PRONG HOE (figure 148).— This is one of the most useful of all garden tools, and is far superior to the blade hoe for stirring and pulverizing the soil. It can- not, it is true, be used where weeds have been allowed to grow to any considerable bight ; but then we claim that in all well-regulated gar- dens weeds should never be allowed to grow so large that they cannot be de- stroyed by the prong hoe. THE DUTCH OR PUSH HOE (figure 149) is some- times preferred to the preceding for cutting the weeds between the rows of vegetables,, a work which can be done very quickly by its aid. It is not so generally useful as the draw hoe, but is better for the special purposes of destroying weeds. THE WARREN HOE (figure 150) is a new pattern of real merit. The blade is heart-shaped, and slightly Fig. 148. 364 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. curved, similar to the mold-board of a plow. It conse- quently always scours bright, and works nearly one-half Fig. 150. easier than the common draw hoe. For making drills and covering seeds it cannot be equaled. THE LAWN SPRINKLER (figure 151) is attached to *afff *# sf?/r^ B Fig. 151. Fig. 152. three-quarter inch hose, and sprinkles the lawn a dis- tance of from twenty to forty feet in diameter, ac- cording to the kind of sprinkler or the force of the GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 365 water. It is very valuable in dry weather, as it can be allowed to sprinkle for an hour or more in one place, and then be removed to another portion of the lawn. It is also a pretty ornament as a fountain. The illus- tration shows a small revolving sprinkler called the "Perfection," which is simply stuck in the ground. There are larger and more elaborate affairs with arms and ball and basket attachments, which keep a silvered ball continually dancing in the air. THE REEL AND LINE (figure 152) are necessary in every well-regulated garden, enabling us to plant in straight and accurate rows. The best lines are those of braided linen, which will not stretch nor kink. Wind upon the reel when not in use. PRUNING AND BUDDING KNIVES (figure 153) are nec- essary to every gardener. They are of different sizes Fig. 153. and shapes, for the various purposes of grafting, bud- ding, etc., and are made of the best steel. GRAPE SCISSORS (figure 154).— These are slender- pointed scissors, used for thinning out the berries of foreign grapes when they are about a quarter grown, so 366 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE. that those that are left may have room to develop. This operation should never be neglected if large berries and well-shaped bunches are desired. FLOWER GATHERERS (figure 155). — A very useful article. The scissors cut off, and at the same time hold fast the flower or fruit after it is cut, thus enabling one Fig. 154. Fig. 155. to reach much farther to cut flowers or fruits than if both hands had to be used. It is particularly useful in gathering rose-buds, as the stem can be cut off with but little danger from the thorns. THE GARDEN TROWEL (figure 156) is used for setting the smaller kinds of plants when transferred from pots Fig. 156. to the open ground, for transplanting annuals, and for many other uses. It is a very necessary little implement. LAWN SCYTHE (figure 157). — The lawn scythe is now but little used, the lawn mower taking its place, unless Fig. 157. on hill-sides or among trees or shrubs, where the lawn mower cannot be worked. LAWN MOWERS (figure 158). — The great improve- ments in Lawn Mowers during the past few years, and the low price at which they may now be obtained, have GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 367 made their use common in every garden. They are of many sizes, from the small machine that can be easily worked by a boy, and admirably adapted for city garden plots, to the large horse mowers, that may be daily seen in use in our larger parks. In buying a lawn mower, always be sure that it is light running ; that it will cut high grass; that all wear can be taken up, and that it is simple. "Side-wheel mowers" are always to be pre- ^ Fig. 158. ferred on ordinary lawns, as they run much easier than a " roller mower." The latter has one advantage only, and that is in cutting on a narrow border where a side- wheel mower would run off on the side. But the benefit derived by a lawn from the rolling received by a "roller mower" is in theory only, as the roller is not heavy enough to be of any actual benefit, while it is heavy enough to make the machine run hard. If you wish to roll your lawn, get a roller that will weigh not less than three him- 388 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. dred pounds. Grass Soxes can now be furnished on the new Henderson Lawn Mowers for collecting the cut grass. This is very desirable in some cases, particularly in tennis courts, croquet grounds, etc. ; but I do not advise this in other cases, especially if the lawn is fully exposed to the hot sun. The cut grass in this case acts as a mulch, and prevents the sun from drying the roots out. THE GARDEN ROLLER (figure 159). — The benefit de- rived from using a roller on the lawn, especially in the spring, is not fully understood. The action of freezing Fig. 150. end thawing causes the ground to heave, and if it is not firmly pressed back with a roller before hot weather the grass is apt to be killed or injured, leaving the lawn full of bare spots. For use on the lawn always take a " two or three section" as they can be turned without injuring the grass. " One section" will be preferable for walks, as they leave no mark. Boilers having weights attached to the central shaft, that can be unhooked and removed when lighter weight is desirable, are the best. These weights always keep the handle up from the ground, and out of the way. GABDEN IMPLEMENTS. 369 THE LAWN RAKE is used for raking off lawns pre- vious to and after using the scythe or lawn mower, and for removing dead leaves and other rubbish. An improvement over the old 22-teeth wooden rake is Fi secret of his success for the benefit of others, enables him to give most valuable information. The book is profusely illustrated. 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The large experience of the author in improving the character of American herds adds to the weight of his observations and has enabled him to produce a work which will at once make good his claims as a standard authority on the subject. .New and revised edition. Illustrated. Cloth, 12tno. 2.50 Profits in Poultry. Useful and ornamental Breeds and their Profitable Management. This excellent work contains the combined experience of a num- ber of practical men in all departments of poultry raising. It is profusely illustrated and forms a unique a-nd important addition to our poultry literature. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 The American Standard of Perfection. The recognized standard work on Poultry In this country, adopted by the American Poultry Association. It contains a complete de- scription of all the recognized varieties of fowls, including turkeys, ducks and geese; gives instructions to judges; glossary of technical terms and nomenclature. It contains 244 pages, handsomely bound in cloth, embellished with title in gold on front cover. $1.00 Stoddard's An ESS Farm. By H. H. Stoddard. The management of poultry In large numbers, being a series of articles written for the AMERICAN AGR1CUI/TUB- 1ST. Illustrated. Cloth, I2mo. JX STANDARD iJOOE.3. Stewart's Shepherd's Manual. A Valuable Practical Treatise on the Sheep for American fanner* and sheep growers. It is so plain that a farmer or a farmer's son who has never kept a sheep, may learn from its pages how to manage a flock successfully, and yet so complete that even the ex- perienced shepherd may gather many suggestions from it. The results of personal experience of somo years with the characters of the various modern breeds of sheep, and the sheep raising capa- bilities of many portions of our extensive territory and that of Canada — and the careful study of the diseases to which our sheep are chiefly subject, with those by which they may eventually be afflicted through unforseen accidents — as well as the methods of management called for under our circumstances, are carefully dfiscribed. By Henry Stewart. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 Wright's Practical Poultry-Keeper. By L. Wright. A complete and standard guide to the management of poultry, for domestic use, the markets or exhibition. It suits at once the plain poulterer, who must make the business pay, and the chicken fancier whose taste is for gay plumage and strange, bright birds. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. $2.00 Harris on the Pig. New Edition. Revised and enlarged by the author. The points of the various Englisli find American breeds are thoroughly discussed, and the great advantage of using thoroughbred males clearly shown. The work is equally valuable to the farmer who keeps but few pigs, and to the breeder on an extensive scale. By Joseph Harris. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 The Farmer's Veterinary Adviser. A guide to the Prevention and Treatment of Disease In Domestic Animals. This is one of the best works on this subject, and is es- pecially designed to supply the need of the busy American Farm? er, who can rarely avail himself of the advice of a Scientific Veter- inarian. It is brought up to date and treats of the Prevention of Disease as well as of the Remedies. By Prof. Jas. Law. Cloth. Crown, 8vo. 3.00 Dadd's American Cattle Doctor. By George H. Dadd, M. D., Veterinary Practitioner. To help every man to ba his own cattle-doctor; giving the necessary information for preserving the health and curing the diseases of oxen, cows, sheep and swine, with a great variety of original recipes, and val- uable information on farm and dairy management. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 Cattle Breeding. By Win. Warfield. This work is t>y common consent the most valuable and pre-eminently practical treatise on cattle-breeJing ever published in America, being the actual experience and ob- servance of a practical man. Cloth, 12mo. «-OG STANDABD BOOKS. Dadd's American Cattle Doctor. A complete work on all ths Diseases of Cattle, Slieep and Swine, In. eluding every Disease peculiar to America, and embracing all the latest information on the Cattle Plague and Trichina; containing also a guide to symptoms, a table of Weights and Measures, and a list or Valuable Medicines. By George H. Dadd, V. S., twenty-five years A leading Veterinary Surgeon in England and the United States, and author of the "American Reformed Horse Book." Cloth, octavo. Illustrated. 2.50 Cattle and Their Diseases. By A. J. Murray, M. R. C. V. S. Breeding and Management of Cat- tie. This Is one of the very few works devoted exclusively to cattle diseases, and will be particularly valuable to cattlemen for that reason. It is written In plain, simple language, easily un- derstood by any farmer, while it is learned and technical enough to satisfy any veterinary surgeon. Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 Silos, Ensilage, and Silage. A practical Treatise on the Ensilage of Fodder Corn, containing the most recent and authentic information on this Important sub- ject, by Manly Miles, M. D. F. R. M. S. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. .50 Manures. How to Make and How to Use them. By Frank "W. Sempers. The author has made a concise, practical handbook containing the lat- est researches ia agriculture in all parts of the world. The reports cf the agricultural experiment stations have furnished many val- liable suggestions. Both commercial and home-made manures are fully described, and many formulas for special crops and soils are given. Price postpaid, paper 50 cents, cloth. 1.00 Potato Pests. No farmer can afford to be without this little book. It gives the most complete account of the Colorado Beetle anywhere to be found, and includes all the latest discoveries as to the habits of the Insect and the various means for its destruction. It is well illustra- ted, and exhibits in a map the spread of the Insect since it left its native home. By Prof. C. V. Riley. Paper. .60 Your Plants. Plain and Practical Directions for the Treatment of Tender and Hardy Plants in the House and in the Garden. By James Sheehan. The work meets the wants of the amateur who grows a tew plants in the window, or has a small flower garden. Paper covers. M Pedder's Land-Measurer for Farmers. A convenient Pocket Companion, showing at once the contents of any piece of land, when its length and width are unknown, up to 1500 feet either way, with various other usetul tarm tables. Cloth, STA.NDABD BOOKS. flop Culture. Plain directions given by ten experienced cultivators. Revised, enlarged and edited by A. 8. Fuller. Forty engravings. .30 Wheat Culture. How to double the yield and increase the profits. By D. S. Curtlss, Washington, D. C. Importance of the Wheat Crop. Varieties Most Grown in the United States. Examples oi Successful Wheat Cul- ture. Illustrated. Paper covers. .50 Starr's Farm Echoes. By F. Ratchford Starr, Echo Farm, Lltchfleld, Ct. This handsome little book tells how the author turned from a successful business career to agricultural pin-suits, and has achieved health, happiness and prosperity upon his broad acres near Litchneld. Cloth, 12mo. Illustrated. .50 The American Merino. For Wool or for Mutton. A practical and most valuable work on the selection, care, breeding and diseases of the Merino sheep, in all sections of the United States. It is a full and exhaustive treatise upon this one breed of sheep. By Stephen Powers. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 Coburn's Swine Husbandry. New, revised and enlarged edition. The Breeding, Rearing, and Management of Swine, and the Prevention and Treatment ot their Diseases. It Is the fullest and freshest compendium relating to Swine Breeding yet offered. By F. D. Coburn. Cloth, 12mo. 1.75 Tobacco Culture: Full Practical Details. This useful and valuable work contains full details of every process from the Selection and Propagation of the Seed and Soil to the Harvesting, Curing and Marketing the Crop, with illustrative en- gravings of the operations. The work was prepared by Fourteen Experienced Tobacco Growers, residing In different parts of the country. It also contains notes on the Tobacco Worm, with Illus- trations. 8vo. .25 Keeping1 One Cow. A collection of prize Essays and Selections from a number of other Essays, With editorial notes, suggestions, etc. This book gives the latest information, and in a clear and condensed form, upon the management of a single Milch Cow. Illustrated with full page en- gravings of the most famous dairy cows. Cloth, 12mo. l.OC Guenon's Treatise on Milch Cows. A treatise on the Bovine Species In General. An entirely new translation of the last edition of this popular and instructive book. By Thomas J. Hand, Secretary of the American Jersey Cattle Club. With over 100 illustrations, especially engraved tor this work. Ciotn, I2mo. 1.00 STANDABD BOOKS. 11 Sander's Horse Breeding:. Being the general principles ot Heredity applied to the Business of Breeding Horses and the Management of Stallions, Brood Mares and Foals. The book embraces all that the breeder wishes to know in regard to the selection of stock, management of the stallion, brood mare, and foal, and treatment of diseases peculiar to breed- ing animals. By J. H. Sanders. Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 Herbert's Hints to Horse Keepers. This is one of the best and most popular works on the horse pre- pared in this country. A complete manual for horsemen, embrac- ing: How to Breed a Horse; How to Buy a Horse; How to Break a Horse ; How to Use a Horse ; How to Feed a Horse ; How to Physic a Horse (Allopathy or Homoeopathy); How to Groom a Horse; How to Drive a Horse; How to Ride a Horse, etc. By the late Henry William Herbert, (Frank Forester). Beautifully Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.75 Warington's Chemistry of the Farm. Treating with the utmost clearness and conciseness, and in the most popular manner possible, of the relations, of Chemistry to Agriculture, and providing a welcome manual for those who, while not having time to systematically study Chemistry, will gladly have such an idea as this gives them of its relation to oper- ations on the farm. By R. Wariiigton, F. C. S. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 Farm Appliances. Describing numerous Useful and Labor-Saving appliances, and will be found of great value in every department of Farm work. With nearly 250 Illustrations. Cloth, 12mo. 1-00 Fences, Gates and Bridges. A much-needed and valuable work. The descriptions are abundantly illustrated. The book also contains a synopsis of the Fence Law0 of the different States. Over 100 engravings. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 Farm Conveniences. A Manual of what to do, and how to do it. Describing all manner of Homemade Aids to Farm Work. Made up of the best ideas from the experience of many practical men. With over two hundred engravings. 1-6° Waring's Draining for Profit and Draining for Health. This book is a very complete and practial treatise, the directions in which are plain and easily followed. The subject of thorough farm drainage is discussed in all its bearings, and also that more extensive land drainage by which the sanitary condition of any district may be greatly improved, even to the banishment of fever and ague, typhoid and malarial fever. By Geo. E. Waring, Jr. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. • 12 STANDARD BOOKS. The Dogs of Great Britain, America and Other Countries. New, enlarged and revised edition. Their Breeding, training and management, in health and disease; comprising all the essential parts of the two standard works on the dog, by "Stonehenge." It describes the Best Game and Hunting Grounds in America. Contains over One Hundred Beautiful Engravings, embracing most noted Dogs in both continents, making, together with Chap- ters by American Writers, the most complete Dog Book ever pub- lished. Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 American Bird Fancier. Or how to Breed, Rear and Care for Song and Domestic Birds. This valuable and important little work for all who are interested in the keeping of Song Birds, has been revised and enlarged, and ia now a complete manual upon the subject. All who own valuable birds, or wish to do so, will find the new Fancier indispensable. New, revised and enlarged edition. LBy D. J. Browne and Dr. Fuller Walker. Illustrated, paper. .50 Gardening for Young and Old. By Joseph Harris. A work intended to interest farmers' boys in Farm Gardening, which means a better and more profitable form of agriculture. The teachings are given in the familiar manner so well known in the author's "Walks and Talks on the Farm." Illus- trated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.25 Onions ; How to Raise Them Profitably. Being the Practical Details, from Selection of Seed and Preparation of Ground to Harvesting and Marketing the Crop, given very plainly by Seventeen Practical Onion Growers of long experience residing In different pai'ts of the country. No more valuable work of its size was ever issued. Paper, 8vo. .20 Tomato Culture. By J. W. Day, D. Cummins, and A. I. Root. In three parts. Part First— Tomato Culture in the South. Part Second— Tomato Cul- ture, especially for Canning Factories. Part Third — Plant Growing for Market and High Pressure. Gardening in general. A Practical Book for those who work under either Glass or Cloth as a Protec- tion from Frost. 135 pages, illustrated. Paper, IGnio. .35 How to Handle and Educate Vicious Horses. By Oscar R. Gleason. Directions for Handling Vicious Horses, Breaking Colts, Teaching Horses Tricks, etc. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. .50 The Family Horse. Its Stabling, Care and Feeding. By Geo. A. Martin. A Practical Manual, full of the most useful information. Illustrated. Cloth 12mo. 1.00