Walter Draper, F. R.H

REESE LIBRARY

OF THE

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA.

Deceived ,190 .

Accession No. m 82664 ... Class No.

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REESE

GARDENING IN EGYPT:

— A —

HANDBOOK OF GARDENING

FOR

LOWER EGYPT.

BY

WALTER DRAPER.

/»

Fellow of the Royal Horticultural Society ; late of

the Royal Botanic Gardens ', Kew ; and the Crystal

Palace, London ; Director of Government

Gardens at the Barrage, near Cairo.

LONDON :

L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND, W.C

•

1895.

"It is both the duty and interest of every owner and cultivator
of the soil to study the best means of rendering that soil subservient
to his own and the general wants of the community; and he who
introduces a new and useful Seed, Plant, or Shrub into his district, is
a blessing: and honour to his country."— SIB J. SINCLAIR.

PRINTED AT THE LONDON AND COUNTY WORKS, DRURY LANE,

DEDICATED
TO

Q. B. ALDERSON, ESQ.,

AS A TOKEN OF RESPECT FOR HIS

MANY ACTS OF KINDNESS TO ME DURING MY

STAY IN RAMLEH.

82664
REESE

PREFACE.

So far as I am aware, no book on Egyptian Gardening
has yet been published in English. That this little
work will fill up the void, I do not for a moment
pretend, as the subject is an extensive one, and
would require a much larger treatise than the simple
handbook I now offer to my readers.

All that I have done is to respond to an invitation
to put into a more permanent form the notes that I
took for the course of Horticultural lectures, which
I delivered last winter in Ramleh.

These notes have been revised and enlarged, and I
have added at the end a garden calendar of work for
the different months of the year.

I have to thank many of the residents of Alexandria
and Ramleh for the kind interest they have shown in
my work, and for the practical hints they have given
me on Gardening matters.

To Professor Sickenberger, of the School of Medicine,
Cairo, I am indebted for information concerning the

vi Preface.

number of species of the Date Palm, and specimens
of new cactaceous and other plants from Abyssinia ;
also to my friend, J. F. Duthie, Esq., B.A., F.L.S.,
Director of the Botanical Department, Northern India,
for collections of seeds, many of which have grown
well and are new to this country ; and to the kind-
ness of Dr. Geo. King, C.I.E., LL.D., F.R.S., F.L.S.,
Director of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Calcutta, by
whose help I have been able to introduce several
varieties of Orchids and" AToids, that were previously
not grown in Egypt.

In describing plants I have endeavoured, when
possible, to give the Latin, European, or Native
names, which will be found in three distinct types,
commencing with the former — for example : Solanum
Melongena — Egg Plant — Bydingan.

RAMLEH,
EGYPT.

June, 1895.

CONTENTS.

CHAP. PAGE

I. — CLIMATE AND SOIL i

II. — LAYING OUT A GARDEN 5

III.— TREES 15

IV. — PALMS 29

V.— SHRUBS 38

VI. — CLIMBING PLANTS 46

VIL— ROSES 55

VIII. — CONSERVATORIES AND GLASSHOUSES ... 63

IX. — CACTACEOUS AND SUCCULENT PLANTS 73

X. — FRUIT AND VEGETABLES 89

GARDEN CALENDAR 105

INDEX 109

GARDENING IN EGYPT.

CHAPTER I.

CLIMATE AND SOIL.
CLIMATE.

THE close proximity of this country to Europe is
often the cause of too little attention being paid to
its climatic peculiarities. Egypt is just near enough
to the Equator to alter the seasons without entirely
changing them, and therefore it is a considerable help
to the horticulturist if he makes a careful study of
the changes he will have to contend with.

The climate of Egypt is to a great extent influenced
by the Nile, but the immense absorbing power of the
desert is the country's chief regulator, for, were it not
for these large tracts of desert plains, the winter rains
of Lower Egypt, would extend far up the Nile Valley,
and the great expanse of nearly stagnant water at
both mouths of the Nile, would possibly render the
fertile Delta, as unhealthy as the pestilent regions of the
West Coast of Africa.

The Egyptian year may be divided into two seasons :
the hot season from April to November, and the cold
season from December to March. February is usually
the month for high winds, although occasionally strong
winds are experienced even before and after that

B

Gardening in Egypt.

month ; and it is certain that in Alexandria, Ramleh,
and other places on the coast, the salt-laden wind from
the Mediterranean is undoubtedly the worst enemy to
the gardens.

It will therefore behove the judicious horticulturist
with an exposed garden in these localities, to see that
young trees and tall plants are securely staked, that
tender plants are protected, and that all large fan-leaved
palms, such as Latania borbonica, Sabal umbracu-
lifera^ and Washingtonia filifera, have their leaves
securely tied up. The same rule applies to choice
tender plants that have stood out in isolated positions
during the summer, like Crotons and others, which
should be taken in at the beginning or middle of
November.

During the next three months the thermometer will
sometimes fall to 35deg. Fahr. in Alexandria, and
4odeg. Fahr. in Cairo ; therefore, when there are glass-
houses, all available space should be utilised in storing
tender plants from the low temperature experienced
outside.

The south winds from the desert, known as " Kham-
seens," which occur in the spring — usually in March
and April — are in some cases detrimental to young
plants, but the damage done is not nearly so great as
that caused to fruit-blossom and tender shoots by the salt
winds from the sea. These winds make the plants appear
as if they had been burnt, and often strip entire hedges
and trees of their foliage. It will be found, however,
that where the wind is uninterrupted in its passage, the
injury to plants is not so great as if its course is
obstructed.

The climate of Cairo, with reference to plant life,
varies considerably from that of Alexandria, insomuch
that many plants which thrive in one town will not flower,
or only partially exist in the other, and then only under
the most favourable circumstances. The following
instances of this may be quoted : Grevillea robusta
(Australian Silky Oak), Caryota urens (Toddy
Palm), and Bauhinia purpurea, which all do well in

Climate and Soil.

Cairo, but rarely flower or grow into fine specimens
in Alexandria.

It is advisable to remember that plants which have
been housed during the winter, cannot at once with-
stand the full force of the sun, and therefore it is
necessary for the first week or so, to place them in a
half-shady position in order to subject them to a
system of " hardening ofif," and so prevent their foliage
from being scorched by the sun.

At the end of the cold season, about the middle of
April, is the time when most of the European plants
and annuals are generally at their best. This is also
the best season for roses, though some species flower
more or less all through the summer, and produce
again a second show of bloom in the early autumn.

This influx of flowers of temperate climes, is followed
by a still more gorgeous' display from the tropical
plants. Thus we see to perfection in May, the blue
Jacaranda mimosifolia, and in June and July, the red
Poinciana regia of Madagascar, which rank amongst
the most brilliant of all Egyptian flowering trees.

SOIL.

In this accommodating Egyptian climate, a sheltered
position is perhaps more necessary than the quality of
the soil, although the salt sandy soil of Alexandria,
has a detrimental effect on all trees and plants, as
can easily be seen when the gardens there are
compared with those of Cairo.

There are three different kinds of soil, with which
one generally comes in contact, when laying out
gardens in Egypt :(ist) Either the alluvial Nile mud, which
is chiefly met with in Cairo and the neighbourhood.
(2nd) The debris of Alexandria, which contains a large
percentage of salt, sand,and lime. (3rd) Or,again,the sand
of Ramleh, from which the place derives its name.
But in spite of the drawbacks of a very poor soil,
most creditable gardens, producing an abundance of
flowers, are seen in Ramleh, and this speaks well
of the attention which is paid to them by their owners.

B 2

Gardening in Egypt.

The advantage inland towns have over those on
the coast, from a horticultural point of view, is very
great ; for not only is the alluvial Nile mud bene-
ficial to the growth of plants, but also the lowness
of the land in many places, and the close proximity
to the river and canals tends much to create a per-
manent moist undersoil ; consequently the plants being
free from salt and lime, either in the soil or in the
air, can grow unchecked, and the only danger that is
to be feared arises from the cold winds from the
desert.

Alexandria, on the other hand, apart from its sandy
soil, which refuses to hold the moisture, is in many
cases tunnelled by ancient excavations, which often
cause the ground to subside ; not only therefore is
there always a possibility of the rearrangement of an
Alexandrian garden becoming necessary, owing to
these subsidences, but also the horticulturist has to
contend with a peculiar kind of oily dew which is
harmful to the plants.

It is thought by some authorities that this oily dew
is caused by the infiltration of the sea into the lake,
which leaves during its passage a number of poisonous
gases, and as the dew does not ascend high enough
to become aerated, it is consequently ' laden when it
falls with many of these gases that have risen with it
from the soil.

If water is obtainable, it is possible to grow certain
plants on any soil, even in the most exposed positions,
but it is always advisable to improve the ground by
applying decayed garden refuse, Nile mud, and
manure. It will also be found to be a great advan-
tage to dig or trench the soil from time to time, so
as to allow it to be exposed and become fallow, as
the sun in Egypt acts in very much the same way
as the frost in Europe in sweetening the ground.

In planting choice specimens — trees, climbers, &c. —
it is advisable to add a considerable portion of rich
compost in order that the plants may become well
established before their roots reach the poorer soil.

CHAPTER II.

LAYING OUT A GARDEN.

A SHELTERED position is the chief thing to be con-
sidered in the laying out of a garden as the trees and
plants that can be grown, will in a great measure,
be governed by the situation and locality in which
the garden is made. Ornamentation and style, must
be left to the taste and judgment of the owner,
for, although we are debarred from growing many
of our old English favourites, and the flowers do not
have the same smell, yet we have many beautiful
tropical and sub-tropical plants, which compensate for
their loss, and if it is not possible to have a strictly
European garden, it is at least possible to have a very
pretty Egyptian one, subject however, to the conditions
of the locality.

No one should suppose that he can have a well-
kept garden, that will be a continual source of pleasure,
unless he is to a considerable extent, his own head
gardener, and although scarcely two gardens are alike
in style and position, yet there are certain rules in
landscape gardening, which hold good abroad, as well
as at home.

Thus in laying out ornamental grounds, either public
or private, the first thing that is necessary is taste,
and a careful observation of nature, which might often
be copied with advantage ; and the second is a
knowledge of the habit and position most suitable for

Gardening in Egypt.

each plant, so that things may grow and increase in
beauty, rather than become an unsightly and entangled
mass.

One of the most important things in the laying
out of a private garden, is the view from the front of
the house. Should the position be elevated, as is
often the case in Ramleh, the natural views, which
add much to the beauty of a place, should be well
considered, and the view opened up, rather than shut
out ; in such cases, trees that are planted should be
utilised for shade and shelter, and at the same time,
if necessary, they should hide any unsightly object.

Although natural elevations are always desirable,
yet it is quite possible to create a very pleasing effect
with grounds that are flat. In gardens of the latter
kind, surrounded by desert, or uninteresting views,
the chief thing to be considered is a background of
trees, palms, &c. ; but care should be taken when
planting, to allow sufficient space for each tree to
develop, as mentioned in the preceding rules for
gardens in general.

For a house standing far back in its own grounds,
few things will look more inviting than a central
avenue or drive, with a graceful bend, and planted with
trees, and, if the shade is too great for grass to grow
underneath, a line of tastefully-arranged rockery on
each side, planted with maidenhair and other ferns,
Begonias, Caladiums, Callas, Tradescantia, Alocasias, &c.,
cannot fail to have a good effect.

In gardens with a wide frontage, but with not space
enough to admit of a central avenue, a half-circle
drive might be formed, and the remaining space
devoted to a lawn, tastefully laid out with flower-beds,
palms, or specimen isolated plants, while a background
could be made of trees and shrubs, and the borders
devoted to annuals and dwarf flowering plants.

With larger gardens, a more ornamental system of
undulating lawns, with clumps of shade trees, specimen
palms, raised ornamental beds, serpentine paths, and
rockeries, could be carried out.

Laying Out a Garden.

In planting, care should be taken to have sunny
spots and shady spots. This can be obtained by
planting trees in clumps of threes and fives at angles
to each other. Heavy permanent shade should be
avoided, as it is conducive to draw weakly plants.

When planting, choose only straight healthy trees,
and robust bushy shrubs, discarding all sickly speci-
mens of which it is folly to expect will ever grow into
nice plants.

Deciduous and evergreen trees require to be tastefully
intermixed, so that the advantage of spring foliage and
flowers may be obtained, and the continual sameness
of a heavy green mass avoided. And again, in the
formation and arrangement of shrubberies, care should
be taken that the various forms and shades of foliage,
both red and green, are tastefully intermixed, and that
a blaze of red Acalyphas, or a continuous line of green
shrubs, should not be planted together, but that just
sufficient variety of plants are mixed to give a warmth
of colour, and break the monotony of a continual line
of green.

Large specimen palms in isolated positions, will in
some cases be improved by having their bare stems
covered with ivy, or other suitable climbing plants ;
and under the shade of large trees, where it is difficult
to get grass to grow, a slight mound of rock-work
and rich soil, filled with ferns and shade-loving plants,
will impart a cheerful effect.

Paths. — It is generally the custom in Egyptian
gardens, to pay little or no attention to the paths.
One often finds them hollowed out, rather than raised,
and after a heavy rainfall, they present miniature
rivers, and are practically impassable. Even in the
well-kept gardens of Cairo, this state of affairs can
scarcely be said to be remedied, as the paths there
are usually covered with small pebble quartz, which
tends to give a somewhat finished appearance, but
are exceedingly unpleasant to walk upon.

For private gardens, the main path should be from

8 Gardening in Egypt.

three to four metres wide, and all paths that are
frequently used should be wide enough to permit of
two persons walking comfortably abreast, and to
allow plants to be grown on either side. It is a
great mistake to make paths too narrow, and this
should be thought of when the garden is first laid
out.

During the last three years the writer has endea-
voured to introduce into the country, the raised paths
which are so much admired in European gardens.
Those in the garden of All Saints' Church, Ramleh,
in the English cemetery at Alexandria, and in a few
private gardens in the neighbourhood, have proved a
great success, and have been universally admired.

For path-making, the soil, after being cut up and
raked into shape, should be left just high enough in
the centre to throw off the wrater, and to prevent
it from wearing hollow, and the sides should slope
gently off to the edge. The paths, when in shape,
should be rolled with an iron roller, commencing on
the outside, and continuing until a perfectly smooth
and raised surface is obtained. Should the level
of the path be not sufficiently high when the
soil is cut up, broken stone, brick, or any rough
material should be added until the required level is
obtained, and the whole well watered and rolled.
The foundation now being made, the path is ready
for the surface materials, which can be formed by
one of the two methods mentioned below, which will,
of course, depend much upon the materials at hand.

(ist) Nile mud should be carted to the garden, and,
if already partly firm, should be placed in heaps and
treated in the same manner, as sand and lime is for
making mortar, being banked up with a hollow in
the centre. This hollow should be filled with water,
and worked up by the Arabs with their feet and
" fases " until the whole becomes a soft semi-liquid
mud. The mud should then be carried in pails or
oil tins, and spread over the paths either with a
broom or by the hands, to the depth of about 2in.

Laying Out a Garden. 9

Next, broken pottery, clinkers, or any rough material,
should be spread over and well rolled in while the
mud is still soft, always commencing from the outside
so as to keep the path in shape, and when the whole
is dry, the work will present a compact, cement-like
surface. Red clay or " tena " should then be poured
on in a liquid state, and spread over thinly with a
broom. Sand may be put on when the clay is partly
dry, well rolled in, and any high places beaten
down. For public gardens, &c., paths of this kind
will be found to suit admirably, and will always
present a tidy and neat appearance. Their construc-
tion is very rapid, three or four men when used to
the work, will complete twenty to thirty metres per
day, and with an occasional rolling the paths will last
a lifetime.

(2nd) The other method is to shape the paths as
previously described, and then to place the stones or
clinkers on without the mud, covering them with soil
which should be well watered and rolled. When this
is set, the red clay, as already mentioned, should be
poured over, and the sand rolled in before the clay
is dry. This will prevent it from being blown away
by the wind, and at the same time give a finished
appearance.

This is a quicker method, but the former makes
the stronger path.

Lawns. — Lawns to a garden are what carpets are
to a house, and therefore the larger the area devoted
to them, the better will be the appearance. Few things
can present a cooler and more inviting effect after
the heat and dust of an Eastern city, than an expanse
of green lawn, while on the other hand a more unsightly
object can scarcely be imagined than a conglomeration
of fantastical-shaped beds, with ugly borders of red
Alternanthera, and endless little paths, which are un-
fortunately so often met with here.

For lawn-making in Egypt four different plants can
be used.

io Gardening in Egypt.

(ist) Lawn grass from seed.

(2nd) Lippia nodiflora^ a low procumbent herb, known
under the native name of " Libea."

(3rd) Cyperus rotundus^ known as " Dis," a coarse
grass-like plant with broad leaves, used for lawns
in the Esbekieh Gardens at Cairo.

(4th) Cynodon dactylon, the native turf, called by
the Arabs " Neguil," which is found growing on canal
banks and damp places throughout the country.

Grass Lawns from Seed. — For undulated lawns,
where a winter effect is to be considered, grass
lawns from mixed seed is perhaps the best, as they
present a cool bright green surface, which lasts from
October to the beginning of June. It will then be-
gin to dry in patches, and should consequently be
cut up, and the soil allowed to remain fallow
throughout the summer months.

About the beginning of September the lawns
should receive a good dressing of well-decomposed
horse-manure, and be levelled or undulated as re-
quired, care being taken to keep the surface a few
inches above the path. * The seed should be sown
thickly about the end of the month, and be slightly
covered with finely-sifted soil, and afterwards with a
thin layer of well-rotted manure, and watered
copiously with a fine rose on the hose. If the lawn
is hosed three times a day, the surface will become
green in from seven to nine days. As soon as the
grass is tall enough, it should be cut with the reap-
ing-hook or shears, and afterwards rolled to prevent
it becoming spongy. Later on it ought to be cut
every third or fourth day with the mowing machine,
and rolled occasionally when dry.

Lippia nodiflora — Libea. — A low-growing, creeping
herb of the Verbena family, found in damp places.
It is extensively planted in the gardens of Cairo and
Gizeh for lawn-making purposes. In Alexandria it is
commonly used for summer or permanent lawns,
though it is an undesirable plant in winter, when it

Laying Out a Garden. \ \

becomes dull and patchy. In making lawns of this
kind, the ground should be dug up and levelled in
May or June, and small pieces of Libea planted about
an inch apart until the space is covered. This should
be frequently watered until the whole becomes a green
surface. It requires going over occasionally with an
iron roller, and care should be taken to cut off the
flowers, which are of a dull-grey colour, with the
mowing machine, or they will greatly tend to spoil
the green effect.

Cyperus rotundus — Dis. — This plant can scarcely
be recommended except for large areas, on account
of its very coarse nature. It should be treated similarly
to the Lippia, but attention should be paid to cutting
and rolling, as the plants have a tendency to become
knotty.

Cynodon dactylon. — The Neguil, or Indian doob-
grass — a native grass known under the former name.
It is of a trailing habit, vigorous in growth, and of a
soft dark green hue. From experiments with this
grass during the last three years in various positions,
I have at length been able to introduce it for lawn-
making purposes, into the Alexandrian and Ramleh
gardens with great success, although a faint attempt,
which ended only in a partial success, had previously
been made.

The method found to be most successful is to first
level the soil intended for the lawn, raising it an
inch or so above the path, and well water it if dry.
The Neguil should then be cut with the " fas" into small
squares, of a convenient size, and laid face to face with
the earth adhering to the roots. This prevents the
grass from becoming dry, and makes it easier to pack
in carts for conveyance to the garden.

Short, close-growing turf that has been eaten by
cattle should always be chosen if possible, as poor
thin turf rarely makes a good lawn.

On arriving at the garden the squares should be
relaid closely together, and beaten with heavy wooderi

12 Gardening in Egypt.

beaters until a uniform level surface is obtained. If
the grass is a little long in places, it will be advisable
to go over it with the mowing-machine at once,
and any high places beaten down. Beating should
never be done when the grass is wret, or great damage
by bruising the turf will be the result.

After the first watering, a slight dressing of manure
should from time to time be spread over the lawn.
This will fill up any joins in the turves, and encourage
the new grass to grow.

If lawns of this kind are made in February or
March, and frequently watered, a beautiful dark green
surface can be obtained in a fortnight.

For hot, sandy places near the sea, lawns of Neguil
answer admirably, but they require to be cut and
rolled, at least once a week during the summer
months, and watered frequently, especially if they are
required for tennis courts or other useful purposes, and
the lawns should never be made under the shade of trees.

Owing to the increase on the demand during the
last year for permanent grass lawns, some difficulty
has been experienced in securing a sufficient quantity
of suitable turf in the neighbourhood of Ramleh, and
lawns are now being made from the seed of the
same grass, which should be treated in a similar way
to the lawn grass seed ; but the dressing of manure
should not be given until after the seed has germi-
nated, and water must be put on lightly so as not
to wash the seed into heaps. May is perhaps the
best time for sowing, and with attention to weeding
and watering a good lawn can be obtained in a
month or six weeks.

Flower Beds. — The system of watering the garden
by means of irrigation naturally necessitates low flower-
beds and borders ; but where the water can be given
by the hose this need not be strictly adhered to.
Slightly raised beds enable the plants to be seen to a
much better advantage, and beds of this kind on
undulated lawns always have a good effect.

Laying Out a Garden. 13

For spring bedding, many of the dwarf kinds of
Roses, Pansies, Verbenas, Phlox, Carnations, Lilies,
Freesias, Amaryllis, Arums, Mignonette, and many of
the annuals can be tastefully arranged ; while summer
beds could be rilled with Chrysanthemums, Petunias.
Coleus, Iresine, Heliotrope, and many of the Zonal
Pelargoniums make a good show. The lovely pink
flowering Geranium (Souvenir de Chas. Turner), with
a border of silvery-leaved Centaurea candidissima, has
also a good effect. For late autumn, carpet-bedding,
with the different varities of Alternanthera, Gazania
rigens, Variegated Succulents, &c., would look pretty.

HEDGES.

Well kept hedges cannot fail to give a neat ap-
pearance to a garden, while badly kept ones always
look neglected and untidy. This is, however, seldom
the fault of the plants or the soil, but often depends
in a great measure on the way in which the plants
are cut or clipped. In the majority of cases, hedges
are allowed to become overgrown at the top, and are
invariably cut flat like a table. This prevents the sun
and air from reaching the bottom, and thus the plants
become ragged and full of gaps.

Hedges should always be cut so as to bring their
tops up to a point ; for example, a hedge 4ft. high
should have 2ft. of its sides brought up straight
like a wall, and the other 2ft. should be cut in a
slanting direction on each side so as to form a
pointed ridge. Hedges of this kind require to be cut
as soon as they begin to grow out of shape, and,
with attention, will always remain . compact and tidy.
The following are a few plants suitable for this
purpose : —

Pittosporum undulatum. — This is one of the best
plants for hedges or screens for a windy position.
It has dark green leaves and clusters of sweet-
scented white flowers in spring. For a further
description see page 44.

14 Gardening in Egypt.

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. — A very suitable plant
for hedges, with handsome foliage and large dark-red
flowers. It strikes easily from cuttings in the autumn,
and is much grown in the gardens of Cairo.

Duranta Plumieri — The Blembago of the Arabs.
— A quick growing plant, with hanging clusters of
pretty mauve flowers, thorny stems, and bunches of
orange-coloured berries. It may be propagated either
by seed or cuttings, and is one of the best plants for
a hedge. It is an evergreen plant, but in very
exposed positions it sometimes loses its leaves in
winter,

Myrtus communis — The Common Myrtle. — This
plant is often used for the purpose of hedges, its
foliage and flowers having a pretty effect in spring,
but unfortunately its leaves are often attacked by in-
sect pests. It thrives best in rich alluvial soil.

Schinus terebinthifolia — The Filfil. — A useful
plant for tall screens ; it also lends itself readily to
arching. To these may be added :

Ligustrmn japonica^ the " Privet " ; Viburnum
odoratissimum ; V. tinus ; Lantana Camara, and its
varieties ; Nerium oleander ; Justicia Betlonica ;
Laurus nobilis, the " Sweet Bay " ; Elceagnus
hortensis (for screens) ; Opuntia Ficus-Indica,
"Indian Fig"; and Arundo Donax, "Bamboo Grass,"
for windy positions. All the above-mentioned plants
may be used either for hedges or screens.

CHAPTER III.

TREES.

THE large number of beautiful tropical and sub-
tropical trees one finds growing in the country is
now very considerable.

To the date palm, the essential feature of Egyptian
scenery, are added many trees, some evergreen,
while others are of a gorgeous flowering nature,
which although representatives of the four quarters
of the globe, yet they have for the most part fully
established themselves in the country.

The value of trees in towns, for avenues and public
resorts, is obvious in many ways, for not only do
trees give shade, temper the heat, and render the
surrounding atmosphere cool and moist, but they
purify the air, by the carbonic acid gas they absorb,
and the oxygen they give out — a fact that cannot
be too much overrated in crowded Eastern cities ;
and it can hardly be from anything but ignorance
of their value, that one so often sees large specimens
in towns, growing in places where it would be
difficult for a tree to again become established, cut
and hacked about in the most barbarous manner,
and in many cases removed altogether.

Much might also be done in utilising some of the
more ornamental flowering trees for avenue purposes.

Planting. — This operation may be carried out with
safety from the end of January, to the middle of

1 6 Gardening in Egypt.

March, so that the trees may become well established
before the rains have finished, though the work may
be carried on still later if the season is favourable.
If possible, transplant with a ball of earth at the roots,
and press the soil firmly round them. In the case
of the Poinciana, water and soil should be thrown in
together. In all cases make the soil firm by having
it well trodden about the roots, leaving a place to
hold the water ; and have the stems securely staked,
to prevent them being broken by the wind. Large
specimens on lawns, &c., may often be improved by
having their branches cut back, so as to form a
compact head ; this will also lessen the danger of
them being broken by the wind, and, in the case of
large strong-growing trees, as Fici, &c., they will be
greatly benefited by a trench being dug round their
roots, about a metre in depth and width, and three
or four metres from the trunk, at the same time cutting
back all thick roots, after which the trench should be
half filled with strong manure, night soil being pre-
ferred and mixed with the ordinary earth. The
trench should be filled up with water for two days,
and then level with the soil. This work, which can
be carried out during the summer months, not only
enables the tree to form fibrous feeding roots, but it
prevents the larger ones from impoverishing parts of
the garden with which they come in contact.

Acacia arabica, var. nilotica. — A native of Upper
Egypt. It is a large, bushy, deciduous tree with
delicate pinnate foliage which clothes the tree in April,
and it blooms in June and July with numbers of small
yellow flowers which smell like new mowed hay. The
tree which is closely allied to the species producing "gum
arabic," is known under the Arabic name of " Sunt."
It is grown from seed in large quantities at The
Barrage for planting on the sides of canals, but will
not grow in Alexandria. Although the tree is admirably
suited for binding the sand, it should never be planted
so as to overhang, as the falling leaves and flowers,

Trees. 1 7

have a tendency to pollute the water, an example of
which can be seen in June when the small canal which
supplies Alexandria with water is turned yellow by
the immense quantities of Lebbeck blossoms which
fall into it from the overhanging trees.

Many of the exotic Acacias such as A. Senegal,
A. Adamsoni, A. dealbata^ A. abyssinica, A. longifolia,
and A. decipiens are also grown in the more modern
gardens of Alexandria and Cairo.

Albezzia Lebbeck. — A native of India and Ceylon.
In Egypt it is the principal avenue tree. The foliage
is deciduous, but the leaves remain on the tree for a
long time if in a sheltered position. The new foliage
appears in May, and the tassel-like flowers, known as
"Dakn el Pasha," follow shortly after. The Lebbeck
also flowers a second time in August. Its wood is
much valued in the country for boat-building, water-
wheels, &c., and large branches, or pieces of the
trunk planted in winter or in the early spring, will
the same year make nice trees. It can also be raised
from seed, which germinates freely.

A. procera. — A tree similar to the above, though
suitable for this climate, and growing freely from seed
in Alexandria, is almost unknown. Its wood is even
grained and durable, and is used for rice-pounders,
sugar-cane-crushers, and agricultural implements. It
would, if extensively planted, prove a valuable timber
tree to the country.

Aliantus glandulosa. — A native of China, it has been
introduced extensively into Algeria and Western
Europe for feeding the silkworm. It is a rapid-
growing deciduous tree, with large pinnate leaves, and
the seeds hang in clusters after the leaves Ijave fallen.
The tree thrives in almost any soil, and propagates
readily from seed.

Adansonia digitata — the Baobab Tree. — Native
of Western Africa, where it grows to an immense
size- — one specimen is mentioned as having a stem

C

1 8 Gardening in Egypt.

poft. in circumference. It yields a bark suitable for
paper-making, and small trees are sometimes met
with in Cairo, where it is grown chiefly for the
ornamental character of its flowers and foliage.

Balanites egyptica. — A large tree of a drooping
habit, with small, dark foliage, commonly met with
at inland places. It yields a quantity of small fruit
of a brown colour, known under the name of Egyptian
Myrabolans. The seeds, when fermented, are made into
an intoxicating drink, called by the negroes " Zachum."

Bauhinia purpurea. — A pretty ornamental flowering
tree of Cairo, with large kidney-shaped leaves, which
close at night, and masses of purple pea-shaped
flowers, which bloom on the whole length of the
branches under the leaves, making it a beautiful
object in April. The flowers are succeeded by long
hanging pods, which remain until the following
season. The tree is propagated by seed, but requires
a sheltered position to develop, and flower. Other
varieties, such as B. variegata, B. reticulata^ B.
tomentosa^ and B. aculeata, are also grown.

Broussonetia papyrifera — The Paper Mulberry.—
A common deciduous tree in Ramleh, with soft,
downy leaves, and hairy fruits, nearly globular ;
about the size of a plum, scarlet when ripe, and of a
sweet insipid taste. The bark furnishes the material
known as " Tapa cloth."

Cordia Myxa. — The Monkheyt of the Arabs, who
make a birdlime from the small cherry-like fruit. The
tree makes a handsome specimen, with its slender
hanging branches and large ovate leaves. It is
naturalised in the country, and when once established,
will grow under very arid conditions.

Cercis Siliquastrum. — Judas Tree, sometimes
seen in the gardens of Alexandria and Cairo. It
has curious, kidney-shaped leaves and beautiful pink
flowers, which, unlike other plants, grow out of the
bark of the stem and branches.

Trees. 19

This tree shares with the Elder, the ignominy of
being supposed to be the tree on which Iscariot hanged
himself. The pods remain on the tree all the year,
and are flat, thin, and brown in colour.

There is another variety, known under the name of
C. canadensis, which has not yet been introduced into
the country. Both are handsome, ornamental trees.
Propagated by seeds.

Ceratonia Siliqua — The Carob, or St. John's Bread.
— Native of the Levant. A branching tree, about
3oft. high, with shiny dark-green foliage, bearing pods
which are known as locus beans. The dry saccharine
pulp of these beans is very nutritious, and is supposed
to have been the food of St. John in the wilderness.
The small seeds are said to have served as the
original carat weight of the jewellers. Propagated by
seed and cuttings.

Caesalpinia pulcherrima. — A native of the East
Indies. — A showy tree with masses of small scarlet
flowers and light fern-like foliage. The leaves are
sometimes used as a substitute for senna.

C. Gilliesii and C. Bonducilla are also cultivated
in Egyptian gardens as ornamental trees ; propagated
by seed.

Citharexylun cinereum — The West Indian Fiddle-
wood. — Is a graceful tree of recent introduction,
suitable either for the garden, or as an avenue shade
tree. It grows rapidly from seed if planted in
sheltered places, and bears in October thin hanging
racemes of small white flowers.

Cassia fistula. — The handsomest of all the Cassias,
it is a beautiful flowering tree, widely distributed
throughout the tropics, where it grows from 3oft. to
5oft. high, having soft pinnate leaves, numerous
racemes of bright yellow flowers, and cylindrical
pendant pods, which often reach 2ft. in length. The
pulp of the pod has a sweetish taste, and is used
in medicine as a mild laxative.

C 2

2O Gardening in Egypt.

Other varieties, such as C. marylandica, C. bicap-
sularis, and C. corymbosa, might here be mentioned
as sometimes being seen in the gardens. All are
propagated from seed.

CONIFERS.

Under the heading of this large natural order of
the pine family, which is divided into six tribes,
valuable representatives of each, remarkable for their
graceful habit, and evergreen foliage, are fully
established in the country, many of which form
handsome trees. All can be raised from seed.

TRIBE I. — CUPREOSINE/E.

Cupressus sempervirens — Cypress wood. — So-called
from the aromatic and almost imperishable nature of
its wood. It is a tall compact tree, of pyramidical
form and dark green foliage ; a native of Italy, and
easily grown from seed. It is commonly met with in
Alexandria, and will thrive in very poor soil.

C. fastigiata. — A tall, heavy-looking tree, often
planted for avenues in Italian gardens.

C. horizontalis. — An allied species ; is of a more
spreading habit, like the cedar ; is also used for avenues
in this country.

Callistris quadrivalvis — The Sandarach. — The
powdered resin of which furnishes " pounce," used in the
preparation of parchment ; is also one of the trees
comprising Tribe I. found in the Egyptian gardens.

TRIBE II.— TAXODIC/E.

Taxodium distichum — The Deciduous Cypress. —
This is a tall, graceful tree, with light, spreading
foliage, small specimens of which are sometimes met
with in the Ramleh Gardens. It is closely allied to
the " Wellingtonias," the mammoth trees of California.
Cryptomaria japonica, with which we are familiar in
our gardens at home, has also been lately introduced
into Egypt.

Trees. 21

TRIBE III.—
Salisburia adiantifolia — The Maidenhair Tree. _
This handsome tree, with its large fern-like leaf (as
the name implies), has flowers resembling those of the
common Berberry and a small acid fruit, it is, unfortu-
nately, rarely met with, though I am informed that a
very fine specimen was cut down a few years ago in
the Government gardens on the Mahmoudieh Canal.
Taxus baccata, the English Yew, and T. fastigiata, the
Irish Yew, are seldom seen — except as small specimens
in pots.

TRIBE IV. — PODOCARPE^E.

Podocarpus Totara. — A valuable, hard-wooded ever-
green tree of New Zealand, with small box-like leaves,
and of remarkably slow growth. A few large specimens
exist in the gardens near the canal at Alexandria,
and small plants in pots are offered for sale by the
local nurserymen.

TRIBE V.— ARAUCARIE.E.

A genus of exceedingly handsome trees, very
ornamental when growing upon a lawn, where there is
ample space for the lower branches to develop. They
can be raised in sandy soil, from cuttings taken from
the half-ripe terminal side shoots ; but some species
will be found to strike more readily than others. The
commonest method adopted in Egypt for raising young
plants is, however, by means of seed, which must
have previously been impregnated by the male plant.
The seeds, which are contained in cones, should be
sown soon after ripening, as otherwise they quickly lose
their vitality. Sow each seed singly in small pots
filled with well-washed sand, and place in shelter undei
glass until it germinates. After the plants have made
a little growth, they should be plunged, with their
pots into the soil, in a half shady position, and potted
on until they become large enough to plant out per-
manently in the open ground.

Araucaria excelsa. — The Norfolk Island Pine.

22 Gardening in Egypt.

This variety is perhaps the best of the Araucarias,
and is said by some authorities to be unrivalled in
its beauty by any other tree. Tall specimens are
sometimes seen in the gardens inland, but only small
plants are met with in Alexandria.

A. Cookii. — A few trees of this variety still exist
in the Esbekeeyeh Gardens at Cairo. It makes a
fine specimen, but has thicker branches, and it is not
so dense in its growth as the former. It is a native
of New Caledonia.

A.Bidwill!!.— The Moreton Bay Pine. This hand-
some tree is quite distinct from the two preceding,
having prickly, sparkling, dark green leaves, with
spreading branches, rising from the ground in a pyra-
midical form. Its foliage is in character similar to
the A. imbricata (the monkey puzzle) so often seen
in English Gardens, but this latter variety is unknown
in Egypt.

A. Cunningham!!. — A native of Australia. A
vigorous growing species, conspicuous in Ramleh and
Alexandria, where it towers above all other trees. It
has a dark thick foliage of a cypress-like character,
and has the advantage of thriving on dry, sandy soil
in exposed windy positions where scarcely any other
tree will exist. It requires very little water when
once established, and always grows in an upright and
well-balanced form.

This tree can be raised in sandy soil from seed or
from cuttings taken from the roots 3in. or 4111. long.
If the latter method is adopted, care should be taken
that the cuttings are planted deeply in sandy soil.

TRIBE VI. — ABIETINE/E— PINES.

Pinus halepensis — the Aleppo pine, Senoubar — a
native of South Europe. — This species is fairly com-
mon in Egyptian gardens, where it makes an excel-
lent avenue tree, and imparts a good effect when
planted in clumps.

Trees. 23

P. longifolia. — A resin-yielding pine of the Hima-
layas. It is a graceful species, with long needle-like
leaves. Large trees are not often met with, but seeds
received from Saharanpur, India, grew freely in the
open ground at Alexandria.

P. pinaster — The Maritime pine — and P. pinea —

The Stone pine — which has edible seeds, are common in
the country.

P. elata. — A dwarf species, only rising a few feet'
high ; is sometimes used in Alexandria for the centre
of large flower-beds.

Euphorbia pulcherrima — Poinsettia — Bint-el-soul. —
A familiar object in Egyptian gardens. Its crimson
bracteal leaves, forming large star-like heads, makes
it conspicuous at Christmas time. The plant strikes
freely from cuttings, and blooms on the new
wood. It should be cut back to a bud or two from
the stem after flowering, and should be planted in a
sheltered position, so that its beauty is not destroyed
by the wind. Specimens trained in standard form have
also a good effect.

E. pulcherrima, var. albida. — A white variety is
sometimes grown, but is of comparatively little beauty.

E. neriifolia and E. tirucalli are also suitable for a
shrubbery and grow into fine specimens.

E. jacquiniflora is a shrub rather than a tree, bearing
a profusion of vermilion flowers, and slender thorny
stems. It is a pretty plant for a dry sunny spot, or
as a pot plant.

Erythrina crista-galli — The Lobster Plant. — A
showy deciduous tree, with ternate leaves and clusters
of claw-like flowers, of a deep crimson colour grow-
ing on the young wood. These flowers continue in
bloom throughout the spring and summer. All the
previous year's growth requires pruning back to the
old wood, which should be done in January.

24 Gardening in Egypt.

E. Corallodendron — The Red Bean Tree. — A small
bushy tree with large sprays of brilliant red flowers,
which open before the leaves appear. It grows freely
in Cairo, where it a striking object in February
and March.

E. Indica. — A larger specimen than the two pre-
ceding trees, common throughout Egypt, bearing in
Spring, before the leaves appear, clusters of scarlet
flowers, at the end of its branches. It is one of the
trees that are grown to give shade to vanilla planta-
tions. Most of the Erythrinas strike freely from
cuttings in the early Spring.

Eucalyptus glpbulus. — A large tree in Cairo, often
bearing two distinct kinds of leaves. The Eucalypti,
unlike all other hardwooded trees, are remarkable
for the rapidity of their growth, and the large
quantity of water they absorb ; hence they are
admirably suited for planting in damp, malarious,
districts.

Amongst them rank the tallest trees in the world.

E. resinifolia, E. amygdalina, and many others
grow freely from seed, and thrive in sheltered places.

Ficus. — For the purpose of shade, few trees are
more suitable than the many species of Fici, and as
their wants and requirements are comparatively small,
they readily find a place in almost every Egyptian
garden. Some varieties propagate easily from cuttings,
or from seed, but the best and quickest method is by
taking the suitable branches and making a cut at a
node or joint, half-way through the wood, in an upward
direction. The cut should be kept from healing, by
having a small piece of tile or stone placed within it,
and a divided flower-pot or tin vessel filled with
moist sandy soil, should be securely tied round the
portion of the branch operated upon, and kept moist.

This is one of the safest ways of propagation, and
may be applied to all trees and shrubs that are difficult
to strike from cuttings. It invariably proves successful,
and the branch being only partly cut through, allows

Trees. 25

the sap to ascend, and thus the upper part is kept
alive, whilst the cut, arresting the sap as it descends,
causes fresh roots to form in the moist soil in
the pot, and in this way large plants may be obtained
in a few months. Spring is perhaps the best time for
the operation, although it can be carried on all through
the summer.

F. macrophylla. — A native of Australia. One of
the handsomest trees of the country, with large, oblong
leaves, pointed at the apex, and terminal white sheaths.
This species is similar in form to F. elastica (The Assam
rubber), but it makes a more compact tree than the
latter, which is distinguished from the macrophylla by
its terminal red sheath which enfolds the young leaves.

F. nymphaeifolia — The water-lily leaf Ficus. — A
South American variety, of a bold, spreading habit, and
large, ovate leaves. Some very fine specimens may
be seen growing in the Esbekeeyeh Gardens at Cairo,
but in Alexandria it seldom grows into a large tree.

F. eriobotryoides — The Loquat-leaf Ficus. — Com-
monly seen near the coast. It is of spreading habit, with
tuffs of oblong leaves, having a rough brown under-
surface, and hairy stems. It will grow on very poor
soil, and would serve as an excellent shade tree for a
windy garden. It will, however, lose its leaves if
planted in a very exposed position, by the strong
spring gales.

F. bengalensis — The Banyan tree. — A well-known
Indian species, easily recognised by its curious aerial
roots, which hang from the branches in large numbers.

The effect of these trees in a large garden is ex-
ceedingly tropical, as they form in themselves a
complete continuity of shade, and the area they coyer
in the tropics by means of their hanging roots, which
support the branches, is very considerable. Many
fine specimens exist in Egypt, and it is recom-
mended by some authorities that all superfluous roots
should be removed.

26 Gardening in Egypt.

F. rubiginosa. — This variety has smaller leaves
than the Banyan, but it also has a tendency to send
out bunches of aerial roots from the upper branches,
though very much smaller than the former. It grows
into a dense compact tree.

F. Benjamina. — A graceful drooping variety, with
small glossy leaves, which gives it an excellent
appearance as a specimen for a lawn. It grows well
in Alexandria, but is not often planted.

F. retusa, var. nitida. — Also a handsome small -
leaved variety. It is commoner than the former, and
can either be trained on lattice work as a climber or
grown in the form of a tree.

F. religiosa. — A sacred tree in India. It is a
diciduous species, having hanging cordate leaves with
a long tapering apex like a poplar.

F. Sycomorus— The Sycamore Tree — Gaimmayze.

— This tree produces its fruit on the trunk and thick
branches. It often serves for avenue purposes, on
account of its spreading habit and the shade it gives.
The fruit is eaten by the Arabs, and the coffins of
the ancient Egyptians are said to have been made
from its wood. The tree is a native of Egypt and is
identical with the Sycamore of Scripture.

F. infectoria. — A West Indian variety, is used in
Cairo as an avenue tree. It is remarkable for its leaves,
which, turning yellow, fall, and new ones appear in the
space of a week or so.

F. japonica. — The real name of which is yet undeter-
mined ; is also used as an avenue tree. It has leaves
like the Mango, and is usually pruned annually into a
bushy head. Many other species of a more or less
ornamental value, such as F. Gibbosa, F. parisitica^
P. Parcelii) &c., are also frequently met with, but space
will only admit of mention being made of the chief.

Jacaranda mimosifoli. — A native of tropical South
America. This tree, with its masses of blue flowers,

Trees. 27

ranks with many only second in beauty to the
red Poinciana. Its foliage is similar, only a little
darker in colour, but the habit is more erect. It
blooms a month earlier, that is in May, and often
before the leaves are fully expanded. Propagated
by "" seed, but is difficult to transplant when estab-
lished, and will only flower in a sheltered position.
For this purpose in windy gardens a large evergreen
tree should be grown on the exposed side.

Kigelia pinnata. — The Sausage Tree of Nubia.

A tall tree in Cairo, peculiar on account of its long
hanging fruits. It has coarse pinnate leaves, and
flowers which only open at night.

Lagunaria Patersonii — The Norfolk Island Oak. —
A tall, pyramidical-shaped tree, with small leaves,
white on the under surface, and thick petaled pink
flowers like an Hibiscus, to which family it belongs.
A suitable tree for poor soil and a windy position.

Melia Azedarach — The Persian Lilac — Zenzillia. —
An ornamental tree, often seen in Egypt, with pinnate,
deciduous foliage, and clusters of small, lilac-coloured
flowers. The tree grows rapidly from seed, but has a
tendency to become straggling if not pruned. The
fruit yields an oil ; the bark contains medicinal pro-
perties ; the leaves are used for poultices ; and the trunk
is valuable as timber.

Poinciana regia. — A native of Madagascar. One
of the most gorgeous of all Egyptian flowering trees.
It is striking both in its foliage and in its flowers,
which makes it a general favourite. The graceful,
fern-like leaves appear in May, and the whole tree is
a mass of bright-red bloom a month later ; a second
flush of bloom will also appear (as with many other
plants) at the rise of the Nile, in August.

The tree is raised from seed, which usually flowers
in about the sixth or eighth year, and then only in a
sheltered position. Its spreading, umbrella-shaped form
requires but little pruning.

28 Gardening in Egypt.

Plumeria acutifolia — The Indian Jasmine. — A
dwarf spreading, soft-wooded tree, of the same family
as the Oleander (Apocynacece). It has deciduous,
lanceolated leaves, and terminal bunches of sweet-
smelling flowers. There are two varieties : P. alba,
which has white flowers, with creamy-yellow centres ;
and P. rosea, which has flowers of a deep pink. The
plant is suitable for a dry position, and strikes easily
from cuttings.

Parkinsonia aculeata. — A common tree in Cairo.
Its light green foliage and showy yellow flowers
makes it a pretty tree in April.

Salix babylonica — The Weeping Willow — Safsaf.
— A very graceful tree for the borders of ornamental
waters or lakes. Its drooping form and light green
foliage makes it a striking contrast to the surround-
ing trees. It is common in Cairo, but is not often met
with in the gardens on the coast, possibly on account
of the sandy soil, which does not suit it, and through
some unknown cause it is apt to die off suddenly.

5. ALgyptiaca is largely grown for binding the
banks of canals.

Schinus molle. — The Drooping Filfil — Is com-
monly met with throughout the country. It is well
suited for the same purpose as Salix Babylonica.

Tecoma stans. — A familiar ornamental tree, with
drooping clusters of yellow, funnel-shaped flowers,
which continues to bloom almost throughout the
whole year in sheltered spots.

T. Cavendishii. — A dwarf tree with thin sessile
leaves, and single tubular flowers. It has lately been
introduced from India into the Ramleh Gardens.

Many other beautiful trees, as Casuarina equiseti-
folia, Magnolia grandiflora, Phytolacca dioeca,
Wigandia caracasana, &c., &c., are of course crowded
out for want of space.

CHAPTER IV.

PALMS— NAKHLA.

THE value of palms ' can hardly be over estimated,
their varied forms, the graceful character of their foliage,
and the tropical effect they impart, either in groups
or as isolated specimens, cannot fail to make them
popular.

With several of the commoner varieties a considerable
amount of their beauty is lost when they attain a certain
height, by the lower portion of their foliage alone being
seen ; still, to many who are familiar with them only
as small specimens in pots, a tall stately palm will
always prove an object of admiration, and their cool
and pleasing appearance when in health, together with
their easy culture, will amply repay the little care
that is necessary to bestow upon them.

The majority of the ornamental varieties bear seed
freely, and are therefore easily propagated by sowing
the seed in the spring or the autumn. Some of the
species take a considerable time to germinate, and
strict attention should be paid to draining the pots
or pans, as sourness of the soil is fatal to the young
seedlings. With large specimens in the open ground
too much water will often cause the foliage to turn
yellow, especially in sandy soil, while dryness and
cold winds are equally ruinous to the foliage.

Palms, unlike many other plants, if kept without
water do not show the ill-effects at once, but in a

3<D Gardening in Egypt.

few days the leaves will commence to turn yellow.
This can never be rectified, the injured leaves will
continue to lose their green colour, and must be cut
off, and the plant stood in a half-shady position until
the new foliage appears.

Constant attention should be paid to the watering of
palms in pots for the verandah or the house, and if
possible a few plants should always be kept in reserve
in order to permit a weekly changing, and thus
preventing those in use from becoming drawn and
sickly. For this purpose a light wooden framework,
slightly shaded with date palm leaves, will be found
very useful in protecting the plants, whose leaves have
become tender by standing in the house, from being
scorched by the sun.

Specimen palms on lawns will be greatly benefited
during the summer months by occasional supplies of
weak manure and soot-water, which should never be
given to any plant, particularly those in pots, when
the soil is very dry, for if this is done burning of
the roots will be the consequence.

The following list will be found to contain many
of the species worthy of cultivation in the gardens
here : —

Phoenix dactylifera— Date Palm— Nakle. - - The
Date Palm is one of the few trees indigenous to the
country, though the best quality of fruit is said to be
the " Lady's-finger date " of Tunis. The long black
date, the typical type of the genus known as
Hayameh, is one of the most popular.

Professor Sickenburger, a well-known authority,
once said that there are twenty-seven varieties of Date
Palms, different in size, shape, and colour, and each
peculiar to the locality in which they grow. These
are divided into two classes — those suitable for pre-
serves, and those which from their fermenting proper-
ties must be eaten at once. The palms which are
of either sex (dioecious) are usually propagated by
offshoots which grow at the foot of the parent palm.

Palms.

.

OF THK

"UNIVERSITY

These are disconnected after they have formed roots,
which is usually about the fourth year, and with
proper attention to watering and manuring they will
fruit in the eighth or tenth year.

Planting. — The best time for transplanting is about
the first or second week in February, and large palms
2oft to 3oft. high can then be shifted with safety.
When transplanting, these palms should have their
stems placed from two-and-a-half to four metres in
the soil, the depth being in proportion to the height
of the palm. This is done in order that they may
root up the stem, and the water should be allowed
to run in with the soil, so that the whole may become
a solid and compact mass. Tall specimens will, in
many cases, require supporting for a time, in order
that they may settle completely upright.

In preparing the palms for shifting, two or three
rows of the outer leaves must be cut off, and the
remainder fastened together, and tied round with a
mat. This is done to protect the heart, which is
the vital part of the palm, from becoming dry by
the sun. Abundance of water should be given once
a week for the first three months, and fortnightly
for the three months following. About the end of
May the palms should be visited and any flower
spikes cut off. Loosen the mat slightly as the
leaves expand, otherwise the heart is liable to become
weak, and when the mat is removed it is easily
snapped off by the wind and the palm destroyed.
As the leaves strengthen, the loosening should be
gradually continued until the mat is removed alto-
gether about the middle of September. Palms
growing on unirrigated ground are more likely to
succeed when transplanted, than those growing on
irrigated soil.

Date Palms flower in April, and require to be
artificially fertilised, which is done by taking a small
bunch of the staminate flowers, and placing them
amongst the pistilate. They should then be tied to

32 Gardening in Egypt.

prevent the wind from blowing them away. For this
purpose it is usual to employ a native who under-
stands the work. As the fruit ripens the bunches
should be looked to, any decayed or deformed fruit
picked out, and in some cases netted to protect the
dates from birds and bats.

ORNAMENTAL PALMS.

Areca Baueri. — A handsome species requiring
shade. It has large pinnate arched leaves, and is a
suitable palm for a large conservatory or the
varandah. Pot in sandy loam and manure.

A. lutescens. — An excellent palm for a clump on
a lawn or in a moist place, throwing up several cane-
like stems which are yellow and spotted, and
light pinnate leaves. It also makes a useful pot
plant, but should not be exposed to the wind in
winter.

Astrocaryum mexicana. — A fine specimen palm,
allied to the Cocos (Cocoina), with coarse pinnate
leaves, white on the under surface, and flat black
spines which will cause the flesh to fester if come in
contact with. It can be propagated by seed, and
large plants in tubs seed readily, but being of an
exotic nature, it requires the shelter of a glass con-
servatory in winter.

Caryota urens — The Wine, or Toddy Palm ; native
of India and Ceylon. — The Toddy, an intoxicating
drink, is made from the sap, and a good tree is said
to yield a hundred pints in twenty-four hours. In
Alexandria small plants are sometimes seen in
sheltered places, but in Cairo it assumes a tall, tree-
like form with a brown slender stem, and a crown of
spreading leaves like a large maidenhair fern.
Propagated by seed and suckers.

COCOS flexuosa. — This variety is one of the
handsomest palms in the country, clumps of which
often form a prominent feature in the gardens of
Cairo. Smaller plants are also occasionally met with

Palms. 33

in Alexandria. It has a tall, smooth stem, swollen
slightly at the base, and a massive head of feather-
like leaves. It is one of the best palms for an
avenue, and if planted in groups of five or seven, it
has^a rich tropical effect in a large garden,

Cocos nucifera — The Cocoa-nut Palm — Groz-zel-
Ind. — This species is, without exception, the most
extensively cultivated tree in the tropics. When
cultivated, it begins to form a stem and bear fruit
about the eighth year, and continuing from seventy
to eighty years, growing from 4oft. to Soft, in height,
and bearing annually from thirty to sixty nuts. It
grows best near the sea in salty soil, but the winter
temperature of Alexandria is too severe for it. A
specimen plant in a sheltered part of the garden of the
Alexandria Water Works, has stood outside for several
years. For pot culture it makes an excellent specimen
plant, and if protected in winter it will last for several
years. For this purpose, the nuts should be obtained from
the bazaars, those being chosen which have their kernel
shooting out. These should be planted in pots with
the shoot just level with the soil, stood in a shady
position, and watered sparingly until the leaves appear.
The palms will form nice specimens by the second
year, the leaves being partly fan-shaped, with yellow
stems, but becoming pinnate as the plant increases in
age. A little salt-water may be given occasionally.

C. plumosa. — A very ornamental species with light
drooping foliage. Small plants are very useful as a
background in glasshouses.

C. Weddeliana. — A dwarf variety, with a slender
stem and graceful arched leaves. It is perhaps the
handsomest pot palm for a greenhouse, but is some-
what difficult to cultivate.

Chamaedorea, sp. — A climbing palm with a slender
notched stem and a crown of broadly pinnate leaves
at the top. Small plants in pots are only met with.

Cham&rops Fortune! — The European Fan Palm. —
This is, perhaps, the hardiest species of the Palmeae,

D

34 Gardening in Egypt.

growing, as it does, all the year round in the grounds
of the Royal Gardens at Kew. It is a pretty dwarf
palm, easily cultivated, with spikey stems, and deeply-
cut leaves. This species often has a number of offsets
growing at the^ foot of the plant.

Hyophorbe amaricaulis. — A very ornamental variety,
much resembling an Areca, with a cylindrical reddish-
brown stem, and slightly-arched pinnate leaves. A
suitable palm either as a specimen for the open
ground or for pot culture. Propagated by seed.

Hyphaene Thebaica — The Doum Palm. — This
species, which is characteristic of Upper Egypt, is
remarkable for having normally a branched trunk,
instead of a single one with a terminal crown of leaves.
It has a wide range in eastern tropical and sub-
tropical Africa, and occurs also in Arabia. Its brown,
fibrous fruits, which have the taste of ginger-bread, are
eaten by the natives, though to the European taste
they are anything but palatable. A small plant of
this species may be seen i'n Cairo, but it is not met
with further north.

Kentia Fosteriana — The Thatch-leaf Palm. — This
plant is suitable either for pot culture, for the plant-
house, verandah, or as a garden palm, growing as it
does in the open ground all the year round in Alex-
andria. It is of a spreading habit, with glossy leaves
and slender stems. It is propagated from seeds.

Other varieties, as K. Belmoreana^ K. Canter-
bury ana, and K. Australis, are also grown.

Latania borbonica, syn. Livistona chinensis — the
common Fan Palm. — This species is well known in the
country, being largely grown, both as a pot-plant
and also as a specimen palm, in the open ground. It
is a very hardy species, growing in any kind of soil,
but the leaves should be tied up during the winter in
very exposed places.

L. aurea and L. rubra are cultivated in pots,
for the plant house.

Palms. 35

Metroxylon sagus — The Sago Palm. — This species is
occasionally seen in the gardens of Cairo. It has
pinnate leaves and erect petioles, but its somewhat
slow growth prevents it from being a popular garden
palm.

Phoenix canariensis. — Of the many ornamental
varieties of this genus, the above-named species is,
perhaps, the best in the gardens here. Its handsome
head, formed of a thick growth of pinnate, arched
leaves, makes it a very desirable specimen plant.
Some very good specimens grow in the ordinary
garden soil of Alexandria.

P. leonensis. — A thick-stemmed variety, having an
immense head of small pinnate leaves with thick
petioles, which radiate out in a reflex form like a
huge Cycas, making it a striking and excellent shady
specimen. A very fine palm of this variety can be
seen in the garden of Mr. Cicolani, at Cairo. The
plant is somewhat rare.

P. rupicola. — An Indian variety ; is also a desirable
acquisition on account of its elegant growth and grace-
ful drooping leaves. Other varieties, suitable either
for pot culture or the open ground, are P. acaulis,
P. reclinata, P. spinosa, P. sylvestris, P. zeylanica.

Rhapis flabelliformis — The Ratten Palm. — A dwarf
fan-shaped palm, native of Eastern Asia. The leaves,
which are deeply cut into segments, grow on long
thin stems, forming a dense clump and imparting a
tropical effect, which renders the palm valuable for
planting, either singly, or in groups of three, on large
lawns. The plant is fairly hardy, and will stand a
certain amount of wind. It can be propagated by
offsets.

Sabal Blackburniana — The Bermuda Fan-Palm.—
A large, handsome species, growing to the height of
2oft. to soft, and having clusters of round and black
seeds. The leaves are characteristic, as showing the
intermediate stage between the fan-leaved and the

D 2

36 Gardening in Egypt.

pinnatifid-leaved palm. It is often met with in the small
public gardens of Cairo, but large specimens are rare.

S. princeps. — A smaller species, with long, upright
leaf-stalks. It is, perhaps, commoner than the above-
named variety, but not so bold in character. Some
nice plants may be seen in the gardens of Shepherd's
Hotel, at Cairo.

Seaforthia elegans. — A native of New South Wales ;
grows well in the gardens on the Mahmoudieh Canal.
It has a smooth, ringed stem and heavy drooping
pinnate leaves, which often hang in an irregular untidy
form. It is, perhaps, seen at its best as a tall specimen.

Thrinax parviflora. — A very handsome pot palm
for the greenhouse, having fan-shaped leaves divided
into a star-like form.

T. elegans, T. argentea, T. elegantissiina> T. gracillinia^
and T. glauca are suitable palms for the conservatory.

Washingtonia filifera — The Californian Fan-Palm. —
A very handsome, hardy species. It is distinguished
from the Latania by the long thread-like filiments
which hang from its large fan-shaped leaves. It
forms a noble plant in very poor soil, and if the
leaves are tied up in the winter to prevent them
being broken by the wind, it will be found to be a
suitable palm for gardens on the coast. It can be
raised from seeds, or young plants purchased from the
local nurserymen.

PANDANE/E.

Pandanus odoratissimus — The Screw Pine. — A very
handsome plant, suitable for a large garden. It has
terminal heads of long sedge-like leaves arranged in
a screw-like manner, from which it derives its name,
and the large aerial roots which hang down from the
branches gives it a curious effect. The plant, which
is of two sex, flowers in March and April with huge
panicles of creamy-white flowers, which impart a
strong fragrance like pine-apple. The fruit is in the
form of a large cone. It is commonly met with in

Palms. 37

the gardens of Alexandria and Cairo, and can be
propagated by cuttings.

P. Veitchii. — A very decorative dwarf variety, with
striped leaves. It is usually grown in pots, as it
requires protection during the winter, when care should
be taken that the water does not lodge in the leaves,
which will cause the heart to rot and destroy the
plant. It is easily propagated by suckers, which are
borne in great abundance on the old plants.

Other varieties cultivated for decorative purposes
are : P. bifurcatus^ P. graminifolius > P. ornatus, P.
spectabilis, and P. utilis.

Cycads. — A curious genus of plants, resembling a
fern and a palm, but bearing a cone-like fruit. They
are representatives of a very ancient flora. The leaves
which are long and pinnate, radiate from the stem
and form a complete circle. The crown is exceedingly
handsome when the young leaves are appearing in the
spring, at which time a little manure water will be
of help to their roots. Some varieties are propagated
from suckers and seeds, but being of slow growth it is
usual to import the stems. The plants are very
subject to the attacks of scale and other insect pests,
and require constantly looking over. Pot in sandy
loam, broken brick, and leaf soil.

Cycas revoluta. — A native of Japan, has now become
naturalised here. It is a very hardy plant, and can
be propagated from suckers.

C. circinalis. — This plant is of a more delicate
growth, with longer leaves of a polished light green.
Plants that have become sickly should be taken out
of the soil, and any decayed parts at the roots and
base of the stem, scraped off. The stems, after
being dried in the sun for a day or two, should
be then repotted and placed or plunged in the soil.

Other varieties as Encephalartos Caffra, E. horridus,
Zamia integrifolia, Z. Lindenii^ Macrozamia mackenzii,
M. plumosa, and M. corallipes might with advantage be
introduced for cultivation.

CHAPTER V.

SHRUBS.

To the formation and arrangement of shrubberies I
will refer my readers to the remarks on " Laying out
a Garden," page 5.

The transplanting season for all plants, as previously
mentioned, is from the middle of January to the middle
or end of March ; but the first or second week in
February is the best time for the removal of choice
specimens.

Previous to the shifting of the shrub, the ground
should be as dry as possible, in order to prevent the ball
of earth round the roots from breaking, and a trench
2ft. wide should be dug round the plant, leaving
the ball of earth and roots in the centre. Any roots
that project out should be cut off with a sharp knife,
and when a sufficient depth has been attained, the ball
should be carefully undermined with a trowel. When
the soil has been dug out half-way, a piece of strong
canvas or matting, about a metre and a half square,
should be half rolled up and placed under the ball, and
with a little pressure the plant will heave over, and
the canvas can then be drawn through, tied round, and
the plant carefully lifted out and carried to the place
required, where the hole should have previously been
dug to receive it.

, When planting, see that the shrub is perfectly
upright, and have the neck of the plant level with
the surface ; untie the canvas, and let it fall round
the bottom of the roots, as t the ball may be broken,

Shrubs. 39

and the plant lost if attempts are made to remove
it. When filling in the soil press it firmly,
making a trough round the top, which should be
filled daily with water. Any branches that have
been tied up may now be undone, and the foliage
occasionally syringed. Large plants may be shifted
in this manner without any ill effects. •

In removing plants in sandy soil, where it is
difficult to shift them with balls of earth at their
roots, it will be found to be of great benefit to the
plants, after transplanting, if a hose with a fine rose
attached, is kept playing for a week or so over the
foliage during the day until new roots are made, and
the borders should he mulched with manure, to prevent
evaporation. The manure can afterwards be dug in.

New borders for shrubs should be dug deeply, and if
the soil is poor and sandy, Nile soil and manure should
be added. Where the ground is of a heavy nature, as
one often finds in Cairo, a good dressing of sand or
ashes will help to keep the soil open.

Plant always in angles, and consider the habit and
growth of each plant, having the taller behind, and those
of a dwarfer nature in front, Allowing sufficient room for
each plant to develop without touching its neighbour.

Where the shrubbery does not adjoin a lawn, a verge
or strip of turf about 3ft. wide, or a border of suitable
dwarf plants, such as Gazania rigens, which blooms
with large yellow flowers from April until July ; Cine-
raria maritima^ Tradescantia tricolor^ and others would
give a tidy appearance, while sufficient room between
the shrubs and the adjoining plants should be left for
Dahlias, Lilies, Sweet Peas, Carnations, Poppies, &c.,
so that the borders may present banks of foliage and
flowers. All shrubs should be pruned into shape at
least once a year, usually after flowering.

The following are some of the best varieties of
shrubs suitable for the usual requirements : —

Aralia digitata. — A large bushy shrub, known
under this name, found in almost every garden in

4O Gardening in Egypt.

the country. It is a nice plant when well grown,
with its glossy digitate leaves, and it bears during
the summer hanging masses of brown and yellow
flowers. It propagates easily from cuttings, and is
largely grown as a pot plant for decorative purposes.

A. Veitchii. — A handsome slender species, with
finely-cut* leaves of a brownish colour. It makes a
nice plant for the conservatory, where it should be grown.

A. filicifolia. — A greenhouse variety with green
serrate leaves, usually grown for stocks for grafting
the Veitchii. It can be propagated by cuttings.

A. pentaphylla. — This variety is the best in the
country, having large, horse-chestnut-like leaves, which
curve in a reflex form, and grows in sheltered posi-
tions into a handsome, bushy tree.

A. papyrifera — The Chinese Rice-Paper Plant. —
This species is common in the gardens of Alexandria
and Ramleh, where it usually grows on a single
stem, with a cluster of white, hairy leaves at the top.
It can be propagated by seed or suckers ; the latter
are thrown up in large quantities round the plant.

Acalypha Wilkesiana. — A large red-leaved shrub,
common in the gardens here. It grows into a hand-
some compact bush when cut into a pyramidical form,
and is suitable either for the background of a border,
or as a specimen plant for a lawn. It thrives also in
a shady position, but requires the sun to bring out its
colour.

A. hispida. — A small-leaved variety with dark
green centres and red margins. A nice plant for a
small hedge.

A. xnarginata. — A similar plant to the above
variety, but with larger leaves. All Acalyphas are
easily propagated from cuttings, and in a sheltered
position retain their foliage throughout the year.

Bambusa arundinacea — The Bamboo. — The tall,
plumy stems of this plant have a very handsome effect
in a garden. They are either suitable for a screen or

Shrubs. 41

for growing in clumps ; but they require considerable
room to spread, a good rich soil, and plenty of water.

For multiplying, large pieces of the roots, which
contain eyes, should be sawn, or chopped off, in
March or April, and planted in well-manured soil.
Give a mulching of manure after planting, and water
should be applied twice weekly. The first year the
growth will be rather thin, but by the second year the
plants will become established, and throw up stout
canes, which grow very rapidly.

Care must be taken that the canes in bending over
with the wind do not touch a wall, or great damage
will be the result. Several dwarf varieties, as Bjaponicay
B. nana, and B. nigra^ are grown for shrubberies, but
only one species, namely B. abyssinica, is known to be
indigenous in the whole of Africa.

Biota orientalis — Afs. — A dwarf Cupressus-like
evergreen, growing in any kind of soil, and forming
a compact, handsome shrub. It can be raised from
seed, and nice plants obtained in three years, but
some will be found to be of a less compact habit
than others. They can be utilised either as dwarf
hedges, isolated specimens, or pot plants.

Croton. — An exceedingly handsome genus of orna-
mental foliage plants, popular with all on account of
the rich and beautiful markings of their leaves. A
large number of named varieties are at present in
cultivation in Europe, and new ones are constantly
appearing ; but only a few of the stronger kinds
succeed in the open ground in Egypt, and then only
in sheltered gardens, while the majority require the
protection of a glasshouse or a warm sheltered spot
in the winter.

C. aucubsefolius-superbus. — This is one of the best
and hardiest varieties, growing into a large handsome
bush in the open ground in a half-shady position. It
has small green leaves covered with bright yellow
spots, and is an excellent plant either for verandah or
house decoration.

42 Gardening in Egypt.

C. aucubsefolius-giganteus.— This is also a hardy
variety, similar in habit and growth to the above-
mentioned species, but with larger leaves.

C. Veitchii. — A well-known variety, with large
oblong leaves and red veins. It is usually met with
as a pot plant, and often grows into a fine specimen.
Several other varieties stand out during the whole
year in Cairo, where the winter temperature is higher
than in Alexandria ; but with the exception of the
three here mentioned, all Crotons should be protected
during the winter in gardens on the coast.

Culture. — For the successful culture of a large
collection of Crotons, a sandy rich soil, composed
chiefly of well decomposed vegetable matter, or potting
soil (see page 70) well mixed with sand is a suitable
compost. The pots should be clean, and well-drained
by placing a large convex piece of pottery over the
hole inside the pot, and 2in. of smaller pieces on top.
See that the hole is sufficiently large enough for the
water to pass out freely, or the soil will quickly
become sour. Pot firmly by pressing the soil round
the roots, and leave an inch or so at the top of the
pot to hold the water.

, March is a good month for potting, but the plants
should not be shifted unless the pot is full of roots
or the soil is sour, and then only shift into a vessel
a size larger. Healthy growing specimens will require
to be shifted again about the end of August. After
the spring potting, they should be placed in the
glasshouse or a shady position, and the foliage
syringed occasionally until the plant has made new
roots. Air should be given on all possible occasions,
or loss of foliage, thrip, and other insect pests will
be the consequence.

About the middle or end of June, the plants should
be plunged with their pots in the soil under a thin
shading of palm-leaves, and t,the foliage syringed
morning and evening ; this will induce them to make
strong healthy growth, and form nice plants for the

Shrubs. 43

winter. Crotons must never be allowed to remain
dry at the roots, or they will lose their leaves, and
tall leggy plants will be the result. When this occurs
the tops should be taken off in the autumn and
struck in pure sand, the leaves being tied up to
prevent them from flagging, and the cuttings
planted singly in small pots, and put into a
close glass frame or under bell-glasses, until they
have rooted, the moisture being wiped off the
inside of the glass every morning, and air admitted by
slightly raising the glass as the cuttings begin to root.

The old stumps may then be cut down to within
a foot from the pot; plunge in a half shady position,
and if not watered too often, they will make nice
bushy plants in the following spring.

Crotons cultivated in this country, if subjected to
the strong damp heat of a hot house, as in Europe,
quickly lose their lower leaves, while cold treat-
ment, will be found to produce dwarf bushy plants
and well-marked foliage.

The following are a few varieties worth growing : —
C. Andreanus, Elegantissimus, Chantrierii, Interruptus
aureus, Lady Zetland, Langii, Mutabilis, Pictus, Queen
Victoria, Sunbeam, Williamsii, Superba.

Datura alba. — A handsome, well-known plant with
large white pendant flowers, and rough hairy leaves.
It can be grown either as a standard or a bush.
The flowers, which are borne in great profusion, have
a strong scent, and are said to produce sleep by
their , narcotic properties. The plant should be well
supplied with manure-water when the buds appear,
and pruned back in the autumn.

D. suaveplens is also grown as a garden shrub,
while D. Stramonium, D. Met el, and D. fastuosa
grow wild in the country.

Dracaena ferrea. — A very ornamental variety, usually
growing1 in clumps to the height of 3ft. to 5ft. It
grows freely in rich sandy soil, in the open ground,
but it should be planted in a position where its

44 Gardening in Egypt.

leaves are not broken by the wind. Many beautiful
red and variegated varieties are also grown in the
plant-houses, and succeed in a compost of leaf soil
and sand ; weak manure-water should occassionally
be given during the summer if the plants have plenty
of roots. All varieties can be propagated from cut-
tings, or from the thick base of the root-stock, which
will sometimes grow out of the bottom of the pot.
This may be cut off and planted.

The following varieties are suitable for cultivation
in glasshouses :

D. Bausei, Cardeii^ Eburnea, Gigantea^ Imperialis^
Nobilis, Norwoodensis, Prince Manouk Bey, Splendiday
Superba, Youngii^ Madam Salvage, Gladstonii.

Hibiscus mutabilis — The Changeable Rose. — A
tall, bushy, deciduous shrub, with hairy palmate
leaves, and blooming in the autumn with large rose-
like flowers, which are white in the morning, pink at
noon, and of a deep rosey tint at evening. It will
grow on very poor soil, and is easily propagated by
cuttings, when the tops are pruned back in February.

H. schizopetala. — A variety with small leaves and
hanging flowers, with fringed petals. Lately intro-
duced into the Ramleh Gardens.

H. rosa-sinensis. — A handsome garden shrub.
For description, see page 14.

H. syriacus — The Syrian Hibiscus. — There are
seven varieties of this species, but the albus plenus,
or double white, is the one commonly met with. Its
stems are clothed in July and August with white
sessile flowers, known by the Arabs as " Gotten."
The plants are sometimes used for hedges.

Many double varieties, ranging in colour from a
dark red, to a beautiful orange, are also grown from
cuttings, and make handsome flowering shrubs, which
require pruning annually to keep them bushy.

Pittosporum undulatum. — A well-known shrub,
common in the gardens, and without doubt the best

Climbing Plants.

45

plant for a windy position. It can be used for a
similar purpose as Euonymus japonicus, which is so
commonly planted on the south coast of England.

P. variegatum. — This is a handsome silver-
coloured variety, making it a pretty shrub for borders
or a lawn, but is less hardy than the former species.

Both are propagated by cuttings made of the half-
ripened wood in the spring or the autumn.

Rhododendrons, Camellias, Azaleas, and Gardenias,
bloom fairly well the first or second year after being
brought into the country, but they usually deteriorate
with the heat and the lime in the water, and unless
fresh importations are constantly being made, these
plants can scarcely be considered a success in Egypt.

New Holland plants, such as Banksia, Callistemon,
Hakea, Melaleuca, Metrosideros, &c., do not succeed
in the salt and limey soil of Alexandria, but many of
the Australian trees grow to perfection in Cairo.

The following is a list of twenty-six varieties of
shrubs that are established in the country, and can be
recommended for their foliage or flowers : —

Acokanthera spectabilis
Calotropis procera
Carica Papaya
Deutzia scabra
Eranthemum nervosa
Eugenia australis
E. Jambosa
Jacob inia magnified
Lawsonia alba
Lagerstromia indica
Meryta angustifolia
Murray a exotica
Melaleuca ericifolia

Melianthus comosus
Nandina domestica
Nyctanthes Arbor-tristis
Ochrosia elliptica
Phyllanthus angustifolius
Rondeletia speciosa
R. variegata
R. versicolor
Russelia juncea
Sambuscus nigra
Sparmannia africana
Spircea prunifolia
Syringa persica

CHAPTER VI.

CLIMBING PLANTS.

EGYPT is very rich in the number of its climbers, for
not only will those that one often sees growing in the
open air in England thrive here, but many of those
which generally require glasshouses and heat in Europe,
do perfectly well in Egyptian gardens, providing that
the proper position as to sun and shelter, is thought
of when planting.

Two important points should always be remembered
when planting climbers, position and pruning, while
arrangement of colour, and time of flowering should
also be taken into consideration.

In many gardens a winter and spring effect is perhaps
more desirable than a summer one. Care should there-
fore be taken that a prominent position is not occupied
by a plant which loses its leaves in winter, or that its
place is one so exposed that at the time of flowering
the bloom is destroyed by the cold spring winds. The
Bougainvillea^ which is a brilliant mass of flowers during
the winter months, is a good example of the necessity
of protection against the wind.

Climbers should not be planted under the shade
or near the roots of large trees (except, of course,
when required to climb up their trunk, as in the case
of ivy, &c.), for in such a position it is unreasonable
to expect good results. It would be advisable, also,
to learn beforehand the character of the plant, and
to consider whether the space allotted to it is suffi-
cient for its development ; and lastly, it is necessary

Climbing Plants. 47

that a bed should be prepared with at least a metre
of rich soil in order that the young plant may make
a good start.

TRAINING AND PRUNING.

The foundation of the future plant should, if pos-
sible, be made when the specimen is still young, and
the shoots should be spread out evenly, and trained in
a fan-shaped or upright form as the position may
suggest. Shoots should never be allowed to cross one
another, and only those should be permitted to remain
that the space can accommodate, all others being cut
away. Flowers can only be obtained from those shoots
that are exposed and ripened by the sun ; hence care
should be taken that each shoot is at an equal dis-
tance from the other, and no crossing or recrossing of
the branches should be allowed, as otherwise the plant
will present a confused mass, and only the upper and
exposed parts will flower.

Old shoots should be replaced by young ones, and
in some species, the red Tecoma capensis^ for example,
the climber may be improved by having each
alternate shoot pruned half-way back, so that the
flowers may be distributed equally over the whole
plant, and not simply blossoms in a mass at the top,
as is so often seen at present. All climbers should
be pruned at least once a year, the usual time being
after flowering.

It will be noticed that climbers on a wall invari-
ably suffer from the strong, latent heat, and therefore
if they can be trained over lattice-work or on bamboo
screens placed about ift. from the wall, so that the
air can pass at the back, better results will be
obtained.

The following is a selection of some of the most
suitable for planting : — •

Antigonon leptopus. — A lovely deciduous climber
common in the gardens of Alexandria. It has small
heart-shaped leaves, and blooms in October with
drooping masses of small pink flowers. It propagates

48 Gardening in Egypt.

easily from seed, or small plants in pots can be
obtained from the local nurserymen. A charming
plant for climbing over the entrance to a verandah,
summer-house, or over garden arches.

A. insignis. — Similar to the above-named variety
in habit, but has flowers of a lighter colour. This
variety has not yet been introduced into the country.

Aristoloehia brasiliensis — Pelican Flower. — A tall
climber, with large cordate leaves, and curious flowers
of an indescribable form, greyish in colour, with small
brown spots, and of a disagreeable odour. The plant
is propagated from seed, and grows well in Cairo.

A. elegans. — A handsome climber for a green-
house. The plant is of pendant nature, with
smooth light green leaves and hanging flowers of a
shell-like form, which are entirely free from the
objectionable odour peculiar to the genus.

A. gigas. — This has one of the largest flowers in
the vegetable kingdom, and many other varieties
might be introduced with success into this country.

Beaumontia grandiflora. — This beautiful climber is
worthy of a place in all sheltered gardens ; thoygh,
unfortunately, it is only rarely met with in Cairo.
It is, perhaps, seen at its best when climbing the
stem of a tall palm-tree, to which it firmly attaches
itself by means of its rope-like tendrils. It has
rough, oval leaves, and corymbs of large trumpet-
shaped flowers resembling white lilies. Young plants
can be obtained from seed, or propagated by layers
and cuttings.

Buddleia madagaseariensis. — Commonly met with in
the gardens here. It is of rampant growth, thriving
in almost any soil and position. A suitable plant for
covering a wall on the outskirts of a garden. It has
long, lanceolate leaves, that are white on the under
surface, and is one of the first of the climbing plants to
bloom — flowering early in February — with drooping
clusters of small flowers of a pale orange colour.

Climbing Plants. 49

Easily propagated by cuttings. It should be cut in
closely after flowering, or it will become very
straggling.

Bougainvillea spectabilis. — A strong-growing climber,
with thorny stems and hairy foliage, requiring a high wall
with a south aspect, as it blooms in the months when
the strong sea winds are prevalent. Its masses of
majenta-coloured bracts, often extending over the entire
plant, makes it an effective object during the winter
months. It requires to be pruned after flowering, and
all tall shoots should be cut back during the season.
Propagated usually by layers. It looks best when
grown in a mass, as its majenta-coloured bracts are
difficult to blend with other garden flowers.

B. glabra. — This variety is seldom grown here. It
has smooth, shining leaves, but the bracts are of a
light mauve colour, and are not so numerous as in the
former. A dark, brick-red variety, with smaller bracts
than the others, is often seen in the gardens of
Alexandria.

Cryptostegia grandiflora. — A rather unmanageable
climber, possibly of more value as a rubber plant
than for the garden. It has handsome luxuriant
foliage, large purple flowers, of a bell-shaped form,
and a curious angular fruit which always grows in
pairs. It flowers in the autumn and winter months,
and is a suitable plant for covering an outhouse.
Propagated in February by cuttings.

Clitoria ternatea — Mussel-Shell Creeper. — Native
of the West Indies. A pretty deciduous climbing
plant easily raised from seed ; leaves pinnate, with two
or three pairs of ovate leaflets, and handsome pea-
shaped flowers of a deep indigo blue. The plant
grows to the height of about 6ft. It can be culti-
vated in pots, trained on bamboo sticks, or over
lattice-work. There are two or three other varieties,
both single and with double flowers, also a pure
white variety ; but these are somewhat rare.

E

50 Gardening in Egypt.

Clematis Jackmanii. — An elegant climber, growing
well in the gardens here, but rarely met with. It has
large, four-petalled flowers of a deep violet colour,
blooming profusely in April and May. A suitable
plant to cover arches or a summer-house.

C. Princess of Wales bears a large star-like flower
of a deep heliotrope colour, It is a shy growing plant,
and is not so hardy as the former.

Other varieties, such as C. coccinea, Duchess of
Edinburgh, and montana are occasionally seen, and
many others would no doubt succeed if they were
trained on lattice-work in sheltered spots.

Hedera Helix - - The Ivy. - - This old English
favourite is too well known to need description. It
may be utilised with advantage for training up the
stems of palms and large trees, where it succeeds
well in the half-shade, imparting a green, furnished
appearance. It will also grow on rails or trellis
work ; but, if close to the wall, its leaves invariably
become yellow, and covered with a black scale
insect. A very pretty small-leaved variety, of a
slower growth, can be used for a similar purpose, and
many others might be introduced.

Hoya carnosa — Wax Plant. — A familiar plant,
and the best of the species, thriving on rockeries
in a half-shady position. The roots delight in a
moist, light soil, leaf mould and broken brick rubbish
suiting it admirably. Its thick, glossy leaves, and
umbels of wax-like flowers, are known to many. The
plant is propagated by layers and cuttings.

Other species with inconspicuous flowers are some-
times seen.

Ipomcea — Bona-nox — Good-Night Plant. — A convol-
vulus-like climber of somewhat straggling growth, often
seen climbing over verandahs, for which it is especially
suitable on account of its large, trumpet-shaped flowers,
which open at night, throwing out a pleasant per-
fume.

Climbing Plants. 51

Many other varieties of more or less value are also
grown, the commonest of which is /. cairica, a native
of Cairo, known to the Arabs as Sitt-el-hosn.

Jasminum grandiflora. — One of the best of the
many varieties of Jasmine, with graceful pinnate
foliage, and leaflets less than an inch long, and
cymes of white fragrant flowers. The plant is of
a somewhat sprawling nature, and, is rather trouble-
some to keep in order, its trailing stems emitting
roots wherever they touch the ground.

J. officinale. — An old familiar favourite of our
English gardens, also J. confusum.

J. Sambac — The Arabian Jasmine. — A thick, close-
growing variety, with numerous box-like leaves and
small white flowers with long stamens.

The Great Double Tuscan Jasmine, known to the
Arabs as FoulL — It has strong-scented flowers like
small white roses, but it is more of a shrub than a
climber. The plant requires a rich sandy soil and a
half-shady position.

J. revolutum. — A winter flowering yellow variety.

J. humile and J. fruticans, also yellow varieties,
are occasionally grown.

Lonicera chinensis — Honeysuckle. — A favourite
plant in Egyptian gardens, filling the air at evening
with a delicious lemon-like perfume. It is of rapid
growth when once established, but the branches, which
twine and interlace with one another, makes frequent
pruning necessary to prevent it from becoming an
entangled mass. It is capable of growing on very
poor soil, but is too well known to need describing.
L. sempervirens, var. minor, a deep red variety, should
also be grown.

Momordica balsamina. — A pretty annual gourd,
growing easily from seed, which should be sown in
March, and bearing in August an orange coloured
fruit resembling a ridge cucumber. This bursts when

E 2

52 Gardening in Egypt.

ripe and exposes a mass of red pulp, in which numerous
seeds are embedded. The pulp, which is of a sweet
sickly flavour, is sometimes eaten by the natives. It
is also bottled in olive oil, and after being exposed
to the sun, it is used for healing cuts and wounds,
with, it is said, excellent results.

Lagenaria vulgaris (The Bottle Gourd) and Luffa
cylindrica (The Luffa), which are used as flesh sponges,
are also cultivated from seed, in the same manner as
the former plant, and are usually trained over summer-
houses or trellis-work, that the large pendant fruits
may be exposed.

Periploca laevigata. — A plant of the same family
as the Cryptostegia (Asclepiadacece). It has lanceolate
leaves, and clusters of inconspicuous, star-shaped
flowers, bearing two long finger-shaped seeds joined
together. This plant is often found growing in the
gardens owned by Greeks.

Quisqualis indica. — An Indian plant of medicinal
properties, requiring strong rails or trellis work for
its support. It bears during the summer months,
profuse clusters of fragrant white flowers of a jasmine-
like form, which turn the following day to a deep
red. This mixture of the two different coloured
flowers gives the plant a very singular appearance.
Propagated by layers and cuttings.

Rhyncospermum jasminoides. — Native of China. A
charming plant, with slender stems, growing to the
height of about six to eight feet, bearing in April
masses of very fragrant pure white flowers, which often
clothe the entire plant with blossom. Next to the
Antigonon leptopus it is probably one of the best of
our small flowering climbers.

Stephanotis floribunda. — Native of Madagascar. A
familiar plant in our hot-houses in England. Here
in Egypt, with a continual sunshine, it is one of
the handsomest climbing plants. Its clusters of
pure white flowers fill the gardens with perfume in

Climbing Plants. 53

the early June mornings. The thick, fleshy nature of
the leaves, enables the plant to remain for a con-
siderable time without water, although the damp
climate of Alexandria is said to be more conducive
to its flowering properties, than the dryer climate of
Cairo, where it should be frequently syringed.

It is usually propagated by layers, but as it blooms
on the young wood it should only be thinned of any
superfluous growth, and sufficient room allowed to
prevent it becoming a crowded mass.

Solandra grandiflora. — A strong:growing climber,
with thick, succulent shoots, and large, smooth leaves, of
an oval-lanceolate form ; bearing, in April and May,
an erect, horn-shaped flower, with a white over-
lapping rim, which turns the next day into a creamy-
yellow. It is easily propagated by cuttings.

Solanum Seaforthiana. — A pretty climber for a glass-
house. It flowers in the autumn, with hanging clusters
of small blue flowers.

S. Wedlandii. — A handsome species, worthy of intro-
duction for the conservatory.

Teconla capensis. — An evergreen plant, common in
the gardens here. It can be either trained as a climber,
or cut back into a shrub. It also makes a pretty pot
plant for the verandah. It has dark green pinnate
leaves, and masses of red labiate flowers, will grow in
any soil and position. It is a valuable addition to a
collection, as it flowers throughout the year.

T. radicans. — Like the former this is a well-
known plant, but its large pinnate leaves are deci-
duous. It blooms in the summer months with termi-
nal corymbs of tubular orange-coloured flowers.

T. jasminoides. — An Australian variety, with pink
funnel-shaped flowers, is also worth growing.

These can be propagated by layering the lower
shoots, or by cuttings.

To this list may be added many other climbing
plants, worthy of a place in every collection of

54 Gardening in Egypt.

climbers. Such as Ampelopsis Veitchii. Phaseolus
Caracalla (the Snail Plant). — Dolichos sinensis, Wistaria
polystachya, Boussingatiltia baselloides, whose drooping
racemes of small white flowers, smell like new-mowed
hay. Lantana nivea, and its many different coloured
varieties, which grow well on a hot wall, but require
constant clipping.

Passiflora edule and P. quadrangularis, both of
which are handsome climbers, and furnish an edible
fruit if artificially fertilised. The latter is known
under the name .the Granadilla.

P. coerulea and P. Constance Elliot are also well
known varieties, though the foliage and flowers are
not so bold in character as the two former. The
passion flowers all propagate easily by layers, i.e., the
lower stems having a cut made at a joint, and then
peg down in the soil, or in pots until they have
rooted, after which they can be disconnected from the
old plants.

Pleroma macrantha. — Native of Brazil. A pretty
climber, with hairy pinnate leaves, and large violet-
purple flowers. The plant is suitable for a green-
house or a sheltered position.

CHAPTER VII.

ROSES.

OF all flowers roses are probably the most popular,
and it is therefore not surprising, to find that in every
garden a large space is devoted to their cultivation.
But the great fault to be found in this country is the
lack of variety. Garden after garden may be visited
with the result that while blooms are to be seen in
abundance, the kinds are the same in all. This cannot
be attributed to a lack of enterprise on the part of
the owners, for much money has been spent and
many beautiful plants have been imported from
Europe ; but the selection has seldom been a judicious
one, and a choice has often been made of roses which,
while thriving well in Europe, are unsuitable for the
Egyptian climate.

Such roses are sometimes a partial success the first
season, but many are lacking in size and in the
colour of their blooms, and those that do not die off
during the first summer, usually exhaust themselves
by throwing up long shoots, at a time when they ought
to be at rest ; consequently they deteriorate, and are
ultimately lost.

Several of the Hybrid Perpetuals which hold so
high a place in England, are unsuitable for Egypt,
and preference should be given rather to roses of a
more tropical nature, such as Teas, Noisettes, Bour-
bons, China and their hybrids, which usually flower
more or less the whole year round, while those of a
more temperate nature, instances of which we have

56 Gardening in Egypt.

in the Cabbage rose, Nero, and the majority of the
European roses; bloom only in April and May.

Roses delight in a rich heavy soil, and, consequently,
if the ground i% of a poor sandy nature, the beds should
be deeply dug, and a good dressing of Nile mud and
manure applied. Permanent beds should have an
annual dressing of well-rotted manure, that has decom-
posed in a damp state, not the dry dusty compost
that has lost most of its fertilising properties, one so
often sees used by the native gardeners. This dressing
should be given about the middle of February, and a
light mulching at the rise of the Nile in August, will
be found to be of great help to the autumn blooms.
For this purpose it will be best to place the
fresh manure in a hole, where it can be kept moist,
until it becomes decomposed and develops its full
properties.

In forming rose beds care should be taken that
they are within reach of a good supply of water, as
they will require watering frequently during the months
of March, April, and May, after which less water should
be given when the spring flush of blossoms are over, to
prevent weak, yellow growth ; but the supply may
again be increased at the rise of the Nile. Climbing
roses will invariably be found to succeed better when
trained on trellis-work, or on arches, than when
planted close against a wall, where they usually
become sickly and burnt from the strong latent heat
the wall gives out.

Pruning. — The end of January, or the beginning of
February, is usually the best time for pruning roses.
But with regard to La France variety, opinions differ
as to whether it is better to prune the whole garden
at once, or to divide it into sections, and to prune a
portion, each following week or ten days.

If done in sections, pruning should be begun in
the most sheltered part of the garden, as early as
the second week in January ; but it ought never to
be attempted unless the stock of plants is a large

Roses. 57

one, and unless the owner is willing to rim the risk
of having some of the shoots nipped off by the
strong salt winds. In gardens where quantities are
grown, the risk is well worth running, as it can
matter little, whether some of the earlier blooms are
checked ; and should, on the contrary, the season be
mild, the young shoots will push ahead and give
blooms earlier than if the whole pruning were done
at the usual time mentioned above. The first blooms
of La France are always better in form, and in
colour than those that appear later.

Climbing roses should have their long shoots cut
back a foot, and all crowded, and weakly stems
thinned out. Cuttings may be planted in February.

Budding. — This can be done either in the spring
about the end of February or after the rise of the
Nile in the autumn, but the spring budding gives a
greater percentage of " takes " with roses that are
grown on light soil, and are considered stronger than
those that are budded in the autumn ; though the
latter time would perhaps be best for roses grown in
the heavy soil of Cairo, as the wood is usually
too hard for the budding to be a success in the
spring.

The Tunisian Briars, known as Magrubies, and the
Gloire de Dijon stock, are the most suitable for
budding purposes, though buds often succeed on
other stocks. Many varieties also succeed from cuttings
which may be made at the same time.

The Rose Beetle (Cetonia aurata) is a very trouble-
some insect to the early spring blooms, eating its
way into the heart of the flower, and doing great
damage to the petals. The only way to remedy this
evil is to go over the plants in the early morning
before the dew is off, and again when the sun is up,
and pick off the insects and destroy them.

The following is a list of roses already cultivated
in the country, and others that might be introduced
with a fair hope of success.

58 Gardening in Egypt.

CLIMBING ROSES.

Aimee Vibert. — A pretty white Noisette, with small
flowers borne in crowded trusses, having a musk-like
odour, and becoming tinged with red as they fade.
This variety is, perhaps, a typical Noisette, the origin
of which tribe was derived from a cross between the
Musk Rose and a common China. It is an excellent
plant for covering pillars, and, if required for that
purpose, it should be reduced to about three stems.
These should have their tops shortened a foot, and
the side shoots pruned back in November, and then
they should be unfastened and laid at full length
along the ground for two months ; this will induce
them to produce flowering shoots along their whole
length instead of only a few bunches at the top as
one so often sees. In the early spring they should
be carefully raised, and tied into position. Propagated
by budding, layers, and cuttings.

Fortune's Yellow Rose. — A rambling, quick-growing
variety with slender stems and small, fawn-coloured
flowers. The blooms which are borne on the upper
part of the stems will be destroyed if the shoots are
pruned. Therefore an occasional thinning of dead or
weak wood is necessary. Propagated by layers.

Gloire de Dijon. — One of the finest of the tea roses,
and also one of the strongest in growth, too common
to need description. The colour varies from the
palest yellow, to reddish orange in some of the
flowers. It is propagated by budding on briars.

Marechal Niel. — A lovely yellow, tea-scented,
Noisette, thoroughly established in Egyptian gardens,
flowering abundantly about the middle of March, and
continuing more or less throughout the summer. It is
of vigorous growth when trained on trellis-work or
where the air can pass through, and is considered
to do best when budded on the Gloire de Dijon
stock.

Roses. 59

Marie Henrietta. — A large, handsome pink rose,
occasionally met with in the Ramleh gardens. Pro-
pagated by budding or cuttings; but budding is the
best.

Rosa ternata. — A Banksian rose, with glossy ter-
nate leaves, and white flowers.

Rosa Noisettiana Fillenberg — Stambouli. — A deep
red native variety, of which there are several forms,
some having small flowers with incurved petals, while
in others the flowers are larger, of a lighter colour,
and petals fringed. The smaller variety, which is
more common, can be either grown as a climber
for covering stems of date palms, &c., or as a bush.
Beds of the latter form, are valuable for a winter
effect, the flowers contrasting pleasingly with their
dark green foliage. The cut flowers are also useful
for the decoration of the dinner-table. Propagated by
cuttings.

White Banksian. — A climbing rose, with thornless
twigs, and long narrow leaves. It flowers in the
spring with bunches of small white blooms. Pro-
pagated by layers.

Yellow Banksian. — An exceedingly pretty dwarf
climber, flowering in clusters.

William Allen Richardson. — A favourite Noisette,
with copper-coloured flowers in the spring, and yellow
in the autumn. They are seen at their best when
in the bud. It is a shy grower, and does not succeed
in every garden, but could no doubt be improved by
working it on vigorous stocks.

HALF-CLIMBERS.

Boule de Neige — The Snowball or Camellia Rose. —
One of the few Hybrid Perpetuals that succeed fairly
well in this country. It is propagated by cuttings.

Homer. — A tea-scented variety, common in the
gardens, making a fine object either as a bush, standard,
or specimen plant on a lawn. It has healthy, dark

60 Gardening in Egypt.

green foliage, with red tips, which, unlike the majority
of roses grown in Egypt, the leaves remain in a fresh
condition throughout the year.

The flowers are white, tinged with red, but are
effective only in the bud. It blooms continually at all
seasons, and, with the exception of an annual thinning,
and cutting into shape, the plant requires little or no
pruning. Propagated by budding.

Safrano. — A very effective tea rose. It can be grown
either as a half-climber, or a large bush. It has glossy,
dark green foliage, and young shoots of a coppery tint.
The flowers are of a deep fawn colour, beautiful both
in the bud, and also when they first open. It can be
propagated by budding, but is a somewhat rare plant
in the gardens here.

DWARF ROSES.

Bourbon Rose — Little Gem. — The smallest of all
roses, forming a very dwarf bush, and bearing a
number of small pink flowers. The plant is often
used for filling in the centres of large flower-beds.
Propagated by taking off the stems with a heel, which
quickly root in February.

Caprice. — A charming dwarf rose, with flowers of a
yellow pink and orange tinge, which often changes.
They soon fade, however, when cut.

La France. — A Hybrid Perpetual. The commonest
rose in the country, bearing a large pink bloom, which
very soon deteriorates in colour and texture with the
age of the plant or the quality of the soil. In rich,
heavy soil it will last several years, but in soil of a
poor, sandy nature, it will be found advisable to lift
the plants annually in February, and dig a good
dressing of manure into the beds, and, before replanting,
prune the stems to three or four eyes, and cut the
thick tap-root back ; this will induce the plants to
make fibrous-feeding roots, which will add to the
substance and colour of the flowers. They are easily

Roses. 6 1

propagated by cuttings, and some growers dispense
with the old plants, after the third or fourth year.

Perle des Jardins. — A dwarf tea rose, with brown
tinged foliage and large yellow blooms, borne on long
upright red stems. A common rose in Cairo. Is
propagated by budding, layers, or cuttings.

Rosa rugosa. — A very coarse, pink rose, with
thickly-thorned stems, and rough leaves, usually grown
in this country as a dwarf hedge for the kitchen
garden. The petals are used for making a preserve.
It is propagated easily from suckers, and when once
established it will quickly spread, and is even some-
times difficult to keep in its place.

Rosa centifolia — The Green Rose. — This variety has
the same habit as the ordinary dwarf rose, but the
flowers and buds are of a deep green colour, perhaps
more curious than beautiful.

Souvenir d'un Ami. — A first-class, tea-scented rose,
with pink-shaded flowers, which are very beautiful in
their drooping, half-expanded form. Propagated by
budding.

Souvenir de la Malmaison. — A very popular and
well-known variety of the Bourbon tribe. The flowers
are whitish, with a rosy tinge in the centre, but
the foliage is often attacked by mildew. Many
opinions are expressed as to the proper method
of culture and propagation : some prefer layering
the large shoots, and dispensing with the old plants
after the third or fourth year ; while others recommend
grafting on the ^tambouli^ and other stocks ; but this
must be governed by the locality, for, where one method
does not succeed the other should be tried. Old
plants, by having the soil partly removed, some of their
thick tap-roots cut off, and a dressing of rich soil and
manure applied in the early spring, will often continue
to bloom for a number of years. When transplanting,
this variety should be removed with a ball of earth,

62 Gardening in Egypt.

as the leaves always remain, and during the flowering
season old flowers should be picked off, and withhold
water after May, as recommended with La France.

The following is a list of a few varieties belong-
ing to the tribes that are already established in the
country, and which might be tried with a reasonable
chance of success in Egypt.

TEA-SCENTED ROSES.

White. — Climbing Devoniensis, Madam Bravy,
Madam Willermoz, Niphetos, Rubens, Triomphe de
Guillot.

Yellow. — Bouton d'Or, Isabella Sprunt, Madam
Falcot, Louise de Savoy, Narcisse, Pactolus.

Fawn and Salmon. — August Oger, Madam St.
Joseph, and Triomphe de Luxemburg.

Flesh and Blush. - - Catherine Mermet, Cheshunt
Hybrid, Marechal Bugeaud, and Sombreuil.

Red. — Rosa-indica sanguinea.
NOISETTE.

White. -- Jeanne d'Arc, Maria Massot, White
Noisette.

Red.— Sir Walter Scott, Lady Buller, Bridesmaid.

Yellow. — Earl of Eldon, Jane Hardy, Claudia
Augustin, Magarita.

TEA-SCENTED NOISETTE.

Yellow.— Cloth of Gold, Isabella Gray, Triomphe de
Rennes.

CHAPTER VIII.

CONSERVATORIES AND GLASS-HOUSES.

CONSERVATORIES and greenhouses for the cultivation
of choice tropical plants, or for the protection of
those of a delicate nature during the winter months,
have been, until within the last few years, compara-
tively unknown in the smaller gardens of this country.
Many large plant houses, however, exist in the first-
class gardens in Cairo, though, perhaps, their beauty
is not so great to-day as it was formerly. In some
cases these houses have been purchased and re-erected
by private individuals in different parts of the country,
and others, following their example, have brought iron
houses from Europe, or built them in a more tem-
porary manner with wood ; but, unfortunately, in most
cases the houses present anything but a pleasing
effect, owing to the inability of the native gardeners
to manage them, and who overshade, and neglect to
ventilate and clean them, besides often filling them
with weak and common plants which would do much
better in the open air.

In the more modern gardens a small number of
well-kept glass-houses have lately sprung up, and a few
wealthy amateurs have spared no trouble or expense,
in getting together a choice collection of tropical foliage
plants, ferns, orchids, tender climbers, and others.

There are two kinds of glass-houses in Egypt : the
first where the health of the plants are considered.

64 Gardening in Egypt.

These are usually low, span-roofed structures, known
in England as " pits," having their staging or platforms
level with the ground, and the slanting roof rising a
few feet above. Ample provision should be made for
ventilation, by having a door at each end, and the top
and side lights should be made to open, while a tank
may be let into the stage in the middle of the house
for the supply of water. The outside could be im-
proved by having a lawn and flower-beds surrounding
the house, and the sloping entrance tastefully decorated
with rock-work, or a large specimen plant each side.
Shade can be obtained by rolling-blinds, which should be
drawn up when the sun is not shining, and the roof
may easily be cleaned from the dust by an occasional
washing with the hose. The advantage of a low roof
is that it enables the plants to be kept near the glass,
which promotes strong robust growth, and prevents
sickly drawn plants.

A very convenient staging which will impart a
tasteful appearance to the house might also be built
of rocks, which, if obtained from the coast, should
be previously soaked in fresh water to free them from
the salt, and then planted with Ferns, Begonia Re.r,
Fittonias, Lycopodiums, Marantas, Sanchezia nobilis,
PeperorniaS) &c., which often grow like weeds when
planted out, and the owner would thus have a bank
of foliage reaching from the ground to the roof instead
of an open, unsightly staging. From the roof could
be hung Orchids, Nepenthes (pitcher plants), Platyceriuvi
alcicorne (stag's horn fern), Ophioglossum pendulum (ribbon
fern), Eschemanthus, and other suitable plants. Houses
of this kind are warm in winter and protected, they are
also cool, and retain the moisture in the summer, by
being low in the ground, besides costing about half the
amount of a tall, elevated conservatory. 6

The next class of plant houses, are the tall con-
servatories which are generally raised a step or two
above the ground, or at least level with it ; these may
be either lean-to, a tall span, or arched roof. Houses
of this kind are very decorative in themselves, and

Conservatories and Glasshouses. 65

are also suitable for tall palms, climbers, and as a
show house ; but the former class are the best for
dwarf plants.

The site for a glass-house, should be a sheltered
spot, protected from the wind, but not shaded by
trees. From east to west is perhaps, the most suitable,
as these are points which escape the wind, and are
exposed to the sun during the winter. Iron framing,
is of course, more durable than wood, as the latter
deteriorates with the constant heat of the sun and
the moisture inside.

Shading should be either of a light permanent
nature, with just sufficient thickness to break the
fierce glare of the sun, or in the form of roller
blinds.

Furnishing, must of course, rest with the owner ;
but where the house is wide enough, a central stage,
with a convenient path on each side, should be made
for tall plants, while the smaller ones might be
arranged round the side stages, and provision made
for carrying off the water from the paths.

The water supply may be obtained from a pool
with cemented sides, fed by an artificial waterfall of
rock-work, which could be tastefuly planted with
ferns, mosses, and other suitable rock-plants.

If the stages are built with rock-work, a space
should be left at each support, which should be filled
with rich sandy soil, for planting out climbers that
may be trained up the woodwork, and allowed to
hang in festoons from the roof. These should be
limited to two main stems only, so that after pruning
they may be taken down and cleaned, and the paint
and inside glass washed.

Baskets and hanging plants may also be introduced
and hung at intervals along the roof.

Considerable taste and judgment, ought to be exercised
in arranging the plants, the tallest behind, and the
shorter in front, placing the red and variegated foliaged
plants at intervals, so as to harmonise and create a
pleasing effect, and the edges of the stages should be

F

66 Gardening in Egypt.

lined with maidenhair and other ferns, hanging-grass
of Panicun variegatum, and other suitable plants.

Small shingle, obtained from the seashore, or the
round marble-like quartz from the Makattam Hills
and other places near Cairo, are the best materials
for the tops of the stages, which should be previously
filled in below with broken stone, brick, or any rough
material, and rich, sandy soil filled in amongst the
rocks. Sand should never be used for the surface of
the stages, as it has a tendency to stop up the bottom
of the pots, causing them to become water-logged.

The rocks obtained from the coast near Mandarah,
or Mex, are suitable when the salt has been washed
out of them, but the soft yellow sandstone from the
desert is preferable, as the plants cling to it readily,
and many things that will not grow, or only exist in
pots, such as Marantas, thrive amazingly when planted
out in rockwork where no cement has been used,
and many of the choice varieties of ferns spore and
grow readily in it.

MANAGEMENT.

Ventilating, or giving air, is an important item
in the management of a glass-house, and with the
exception of severe winter gales, or a Khamseen,
an inch or two should be left open at the top
night and day throughout the year. During the
winter, the houses should be open daily on the
side where the wind is not blowing, and should be
closed in the afternoon half an hour before the sun
goes off them, the houses having previously been
" damped down " by having water sprinkled on the
paths and stages. This will cause a moist growing
heat to rise, and will also keep the temperature a
degree or two higher than the outside through the
night.

Damping the paths, either with a small hose or a
water-can, should be done several times during the
day, and always in the morning and afternoon when
opening and shutting the houses. Syringing occasionally

Conservatories and Glasshouses. 67

has a beneficial effect on palms, but filtered water
should be used, or the foliage will be covered with
a white limey sediment.

Mixed collections of plants, and especially Maiden-
hair ferns (Adiantums\ should not be heavily syringed,
as the water causes the young fronds to rot, and
therefore, where these are present, it will be advisable
to only damp the stages with a small can, which might
be done three or four times a day, according to the
season, though a fine vapour-like syringing about eight
o'clock in the moring of a very hot day, will prove
beneficial and help to keep down insect pests, which a
dry atmosphere promotes.

If shading cannot be carried out by means of
roller-blinds, as previously mentioned, a thin gauze
tacked over a light wooden framework about May
will be found to answer the purpose, or the glass
can be painted with a mixture of milk and whiten-
ing, care being taken that the shading is not too
heavy, or sickly plants will be the consequence.-

As the plants naturally turn their foliage towards
the light, it will be advisable to re-arrange them
every month or six weeks, so as to have the better
side seen from the paths.

Cleaning. — For this purpose the plants should be
taken out in batches, according to the size of the
house, and thoroughly overhauled, having their foliage
cleaned from dirt and insects, the pots washed, and
the drainage examined, and any weeds or scum on
the soil removed. The shingle should also be re-
arranged, dirt on the woodwork or glass washed off,
and the plants returned to their places before the
evening. If this system, of a thorough cleaning
throughout the house is carefully carried out, few
dirty plants will ever be seen, and the house will
always present a clean and orderly appearance.

Potting. — This is an operation that should be carried
out with considerable care and forethought, as upon it
the beauty and health of the plant greatly depend.

F 2

68 Gardening in Egypt.

In the management of a collection of choice
tropical plants, something should be known of the
habitat and natural conditions, under which the
plants usually grow. The few following remarks,
gained from practical experience in the cultivation
of choice stove plants and orchids in Egypt, may I
hope be of some assistance, to the amateur who is
desirous of adding to his collection.

Always use clean pots ; new ones should be first
soaked in water before using. It will also be found
best after potting to have the old pots washed, and
stacked away according to their sizes, so as to be
ready for further use. Broken ones should also be
washed, as they can be used for drainage, or, as it is
technically called, "crocking the pots." New pots
usually arrive from the pottery with the hole at the
bottom much too small for draining purposes. These
should be made larger, and a curved piece of pottery
placed over the hole, before the smaller pieces
are put in. The native method, however, is to
put one stone at the bottom, and this invariably
causes the soil to become sour and water-logged, by
stopping up the drainage, so that the plant sickens
and dies.

Anthuriums, Philodendrons, and all Aroids should
have their pots half-filled with drainage, and a little
moss or dried grass, placed over the top of the
crocks to prevent the soil from washing down
amongst them. Rich, sandy-leaf soil, mixed with
chopped sphagnum moss, and a little charcoal, or
pottery dust, is an excellent compost for them. The
Sphagnum moss can be obtained dry in sacks, from
any European nurseryman, and should be steeped in
water, and then squeezed out, and cut finely with
a pair of scissors. No amateur who cultivates stove
plants in Egypt, should be without this moss.

When potting Aroids, which are one of the best
class of plants for an Egyptian glasshouse, see that
the crowns are above the rim of the pot, and
finish ofT with Sphagnum moss, so that the plants

Conservatories and Glasshouses. 69

are raised on a mound of moss, and fresh supply
ought to be added as the surface roots appear. Plenty
of water should be given at all times, and weak cow-
manure water twice weekly during the summer months
will be of service. Artificial manures are also of great
benefit when judiciously used.

Manure water poured on the paths late in the
afternoon, after the houses have been closed, and the
heat risen, will cause the ammonia to rise and promote
dark healthy foliage.

Terrestrial Orchids. — Plants of this tribe that are
cultivated in pots, pans, and hanging baskets, may be
potted in the same compost as the former. The
compost, however, if used, should be as coarse as
possible, and pieces of charcoal about the size of
pigeon-eggs and plenty of chopped Sphagnum moss
added.

Celestial Orchids. — These may be placed on pieces
of virgin cork, or charred wood with a little moss, and
firmly secured by copper wire. In this way the plants
will soon form roots which attach themselves to the
cork and wood, as long as the atmosphere is kept
moist, and they are not allowed to suffer from dryness.
Cool orchids, as Odontoglossum^ &c., are in most cases
a failure.

Adiantums. — These ferns thrive well in a compost
of leaf-soil, sand, and loam, with a little broken pottery
or brick added. They require copious supplies of
water during the summer, and should never be allowed
to get dry. In growing large specimens, particularly
A. Farley ense (the handsomest of all Maidenhairs),
I have found it a good practice when potting to
place a small inverted pot over the drainage-hole in-
side the larger one, and fill the space between the two
pots with small pieces of pottery and a thin layer of
dry cow-manure placed over this, using a little heavier
compost and leaving an inch or two below the rim
of the pot to hold the water, but keep the fronds
as dry as possible. All Maidenhairs in the autumn,

70 Gardening in Egypt.

when their fronds turn brown, should have them cut
off level with the crown of the plant, which should be
kept drier until the new fronds appear in February,
when they may be shaken out and re-potted, the
larger plants being divided if the stock is to be in-
creased. Young plants will often be found growing on
the rockwork, these can also be potted. All varieties
will be benefited by having soot and cow-manure water
applied alternately twice a week during the summer.

Potting Soil. — For ordinary potting purposes the
turf cut from damp places and stacked grass down-
wards in a disused part of the garden, with alternate
layers of cow-manure and a little sand and charcoal-
dust between, will in time form an excellent potting
compost. The whole should be well watered, and
allowed to remain for six months or longer to become
fallow, after which it may be cut down with the fas
or spade, and a little sand added.

For palms and the ordinary garden plants this
will be found to be the best soil obtainable in the
country for ordinary potting purposes.

Leaf-soil. — This can be obtained by placing all the
garden refuse into a large hole, filling it with water
when nearly full of leaves, and allowing the whole to
decompose and rot.

The refuse of small gardens could be utilised by
burning, and the ashes -added to the soil.

The following is a list of plants that have been found
to succeed in glasshouses in this country : —

POT PLANTS.

Anthuriums and all Aroids. — These are easy of
culture, and are not attacked by insect pests.

A rtocarpus Cannonii.

Attaccia cristata.

Caladiums (pot bulbs in February, in leaf-soil, and
grow near the glass).

Carhidovica palmata.

C. plicata.

Conservatories and Glasshouses. 71

Dieffenbachia (and its varieties).
Fittonia argyroneura.
F. gigantea.
F. Verschaffeltii.
Ixoras.

- Lomaria Gibba.

Medinella magnified (stand the pot in water),
Nepenthes (pitcher plants).
Panax Victories.
Phyllanthus nivosus.

Sanchezia nobilis (plant out in rockwork).
Sarracenias.

Many tropical ferns and cycads also grow well,
but all tree-ferns are a failure.

CLIMBERS.

Some climbers, such as Cissus discolor. Pipers,
and climbing Selaginellas can be made very
ornamental by being trained round a large piece of
virgin cork, placed in a suitable-sized pot to repre-
sent a tree stump, and the plant tied round. The
following is a list of a few climbers suitable for
cultivating in a greenhouse in this country : —

Allamanda, and its Combretum racemosus

varieties Piper nigrum

Asparagus plumosus P. ornatum

A. nana Myrsiphyllum asparagoides

A. tennissimus Pothos macrophyllia

Akebia quinata P. aurea

Bomareas Smilax

Cissus argyrea Scubertia grandiflora

Clerodendrons Stigmaphyllum citiatum
Combretum purpurens

ORCHIDS.

The following are a few varieties that can be grown
with success in Egypt, but others may, of course, be
added. With the exception of the Cypripediums and

Gardening in Egypt.

Cymbidiums, water should be withheld after flowering
until the new growth is well forward : —

^Erides, all the strong

growing varieties
A ngr&cum sesquipedale
Cymbidium Lowianum
C. eburneum
Cypripedium Sedeni
C. Boxalli
C. insigne
C. concolor
Cattleya labiata
C. Trianice
C. Mossice
C. Warscewiczii
C. Sanderiana

Cattleya Mendellii
C. Eldorado
Coelogyne flaceida
Lcelia autumnalis
L. purpurata
L. anceps
Oncidium Papilio
O. concolor
O. flexuosum
O. Cavendishianum
O. trigrinum
Stanhopea insignis
S. eburnea
Zygopetalum Gautierit

CHAPTER IX.

CACTACEOUS AND SUCCULENT PLANTS.

A USEFUL section of plants, natives chiefly of the hot
dry regions of South America and the Cape. Of
late years considerable attention has been paid to them,
and nice collections of plants are occasionally met with.

In Egypt they are exceedingly useful, as they
thrive admirably in poor sandy soil and in hot
exposed places, where few other plants will grow.
Many of them, such as Agave, Yucca, Beaucarnia,
and Dasylirion are handsome ornamental plants, which
may be improved under better conditions of soil and
moisture, as high cultivation tends to develop the
pulp in the leaves to the detriment of the fibre.
This is preferable where plants are grown for orna-
mental purposes, and not commercially for their
fibre. Their culture is very simple and easy, for
when they are once established little or no attention
need be given them.

For sunny rockeries and windy gardens they are
appropriate and suitable plants ; they are also useful
for mixing with shrubs or as isolated specimens on
lawns, while some of the handsomer species deserve
a place in every garden, where the decorative nature
of their foliage — and, in some instances, their large
flowering spikes — are always admired.

For patches of uncultivated land that are not
required for gardening purposes, clumps of Aloes,
Opuntias, Yuccas, and Agaves could be planted from
suckers during the rains, and, when established, would
grow through the summer with little or no water,

74 Gardening in Egypt.

and would impart a bold tropical appearance to an
otherwise barren piece of desert.

Agave. — Natives chiefly of tropical America.
These plants comprise many handsome specimens,
with thick, fibrous leaves ; but unlike the Aloes or
Yuccas they rarely form a stem. The plant usually
dies after flowering, which occurs about the fifteenth
year, previous to which a large number of suckers,
spring from the roots, and by this means the plant
is easily propagated

The Agave, which belongs to the Amaryllis family,
is distinguished from the Aloe by having the stamens
of its flower below the ovary, while the latter plant,
which belongs to the Lily family (Liliacece), and is
a native of the Cape, has its stamens above the
ovary. This difference of an inferior, or a superior
ovary is the distinguishing character between the
Amaryllidece and the Liliacece.

Amongst the representatives grown in the gardens
here, are : A . A mericana, A . glauca, A . Verchaffelti^ A .
filifera, A. vivipara, Fourcroya gigantea, &c. All are pro-
pagated by suckers, and some are valuable fibre plants.

Aloes — Sabbarah. — Succulent plants, with thick
fleshy leaves, similar in form to the Agave, but
without fibre. Many of the species yield a bitter juice
which forms a valuable purgative, and is one of the drugs
that might be cultivated commercially in this country.

Aloe vera. — This plant is grown on the graves of
the Arabs, and is also hung up over the doors of
their houses as an emblem of immortality. It is an
erect variety, with spiney leaves of a glaucous
green colour, and sometimes of a reddish-brown on the
under-surface. It is not often cultivated in the gardens.

Aloe frutescens. — A nice bushy plant, suitable for
pot culture or for growing in dry windy places. It
is sometimes used for hedges. Other varieties of an
ornamental character, such as A. attenuata, A. indica, A.
nigricans^ and A. variegata might also be introduced.

Cactaceous and Succulent Plants. 75

Cereus triangularis. — A West Indian climbing
Cactus, common in the Egyptian gardens. It has
large, creamy-white flowers, which open at night, and
thick succulent three-cornered sterns, which fasten
themselves to a wall or tree by their woody roots.
They are easily propagated from cuttings, and rooted
portions of the stems are often used as stocks for
grafting the Epiphyllum and other weak growing Cacti.

The following are a few suitable varieties worth
cultivating : — C. Bonpladi, C. hexagonus, C. grandiflorus,
and C. tetragonus. Care should be taken that large
plants do not become over-grown or entangled, and
an annual cutting-out of the crowded and weak stems
should be made.

Kleinia repens. — A dwarf creeping succulent, closely
allied to the Senecio (Groundsel), the double varieties
of which form handsome garden plants. It has
round finger-shaped leaves, which are covered with a
milky-white bloom. A useful plant for hot sunny
borders or rockeries. Propagated by cuttings in May.

Euphorbiaceae. — A large family of about three
thousand species, including many trees and shrubs, some
of which have already been mentioned. The order, is
widely diffused throughout the world ; but more
abundantly in the hot, dry regions of South America.
The succulent varieties are distinguished from the true
cacti by their milky juice, which is often exceedingly
poisonous. Several species yield valuable medicines,
while others yield a gum from which a paint is
prepared, which prevents corrosion on the bottoms of
iron ships. Many varieties grow well in the gardens here.

Epiphyllum truncation. — A common pot plant,
usually grafted either on the Cereus or Pereskia stock.
(The latter is a thorny climber, bearing clusters of
white flowers). It can also be grafted on the
Bougainvillea stock, which is said to impart a deep
majenta colour into the flowers.

The Epiphyllum, which bears in the autumn numbers
of dark pink blossoms, is grafted in May on stocks,

7 6 Gardening in Egypt.

which are cultivated in pots, in a compost of rich
sandy soil and broken brick or sandstone, and trained
on wire into an umbrella form. About the middle
of June, established plants that have bloomed the
previous season, should be plunged with their pots
in the soil in a sunny position so as to ripen their
wood, and the plants may be taken up for the verandah
or house when their buds appear. Weak manure-water
should be given them during their growing season.

Mesembryanthemum — Fig Marigold. — A section of
dwarf creeping succulents. Natives chiefly of South
Africa, to which belong some three or four hundred
varieties.

M. crystallinum — Ice Plant — Grassul. — This species
is said by some authorities to be a native of Greece,
while others say it belongs to the Canary Islands.

In Egypt it grows in great abundance on the coast,
and covers the low, barren hills in the neighbourhood
of Alexandria, where the plants are collected into
heaps in July and August, dried in the sun, and burnt
by the Arabs, who use the ashes for soap-making.
The plant has thick, fleshy leaves, covered with watery
globules, and bears in May a number of white star-like
flowers.

M. edule — The Hottentot Fig. — A species with long
thick leaves, and yellow or pink flowers. The plant
is suitable for covering dry banks and hot sandy
places, as it thrives without any attention or water
when the cuttings have once rooted, being fed from
the myriads of spores which cover the leaves and
supply the plants with moisture from the dew.

M. cordifolium. — A small-leaved variety, is used in
the gardens for edging purposes during the summer,
forming a green border from long cuttings that have
their ends planted in the soil.

M. roseum, M. nodiflorum^ M. acinafonne^ and
others are also grown.

Yucca gloriosa — Adam's Needle. — An ornamental,
shrub-like plant with a large thorn at the apex of

Bulbs. 77

each leaf, and bearing in June a handsome spike
of white, bell-shaped flowers. A very useful plant
for covering banks or mounds of sand.

Y. aloifolia. — A smaller-leaved variety, often grow-
ing into a tree-like form, bearing a drooping cluster
of white flowers.

Other succulents, such as Cotyledrons, Crassula,
Sanseviera, Opuntia, Ripsalis, Melocactus, Echeveria,
Matnmillaria, and Echinocactus are grown, while some
of the ornamental Sedums, which are suitable for this
country, would prove useful for carpet-bedding purposes.

BULBS.

Bulbous and tuberous plants occur in large num-
bers in Egyptian gardens, species such as Narcissi,
Gladioli, Iris, Muscaria (The Grape Hyacinth^
A Ilium, S cilia, and many others form part of the
native flora, arid in the neighbourhood of Mariout
immense quantities of these may be seen flowering
in the spring.

Taking them in their order of merit, the Lilies
ought to be mentioned first.

Lilium longifolium and L. candidum are, perhaps,
the two best varieties for this country. They should
be planted in November, in rich sandy soil, and will
flower in the following April. The bulbs should
never be transplanted, but allowed to remain perma-
nently in their places, giving the beds an annual
dressing of well decomposed manure in the autumn ;
as the longer they remain without being shifted the
finer the plants will become.

L. auratum. — This species makes a bold, handsome
plant in England, and one grown in peat soil in the
open ground at the Royal Gardens, Kew, produced 120
flowers on a single stem. In Egypt, they should be
grown in a half-shady position, but can scarcely be
depended upon to produce fine flowers, and large
matured bulbs only should be planted. Other species,
as L. Harrisii, L. speciosum, L. land folium, L.
tigrinum, &c., are also grown with varied success.

78 Gardening in Egypt.

Gloriosa superba. — A lovely climbing Lily, lately
introduced into the country from India, flowers late in
the summer, and makes a pretty object when climbing
over a tree-stump ; also Pancratium maritimum (The
Sea Daffodil), Montbretias, and Hemerocallis fulva
(The Day Lily), with spikes of yellow flowers, which
appear in May and June, and Chlorophytum elatum,
make nice border plants. Ranunculus, in a sheltered
spot, blooms in February and March, while the
Amaryllis, Vallota purpurea and Agapanthus unbellatus,
and Albidus (The blue and white African lilies), are seen
at their best about the middle of April, and Crinum
amabile and C. asiaticum flower throughout the summer.
All the above-named species make better plants if they
are not transplanted.

European Narcissi, Sparaxis, Freesias, and Ixias
should be planted either in pots or in the open
ground in November ; the Narcissus growing, perhaps,
best in the open ground, and the others in pots.
After flowering, just enough water should be given
to keep the foliage from withering and to ripen the
bulbs. As soon as the leaves turn yellow, and part
freely from the bulb, the latter should be shaken out
of the soil, dried in the sun, and afterwards stored
in sand until the following planting season. In some
cases Narcissus will be found to throw up a quantity
of leaves without flowering ; but if the roots are
shortened by cutting a circle about two inches from the
bulb, this will often be found to check the over-growth
of foliage and cause the plant to produce flowers.

Hyacinths can also be potted in November, but
they usually deteriorate after the first year. When
the blooms appear, an inverted flower-pot should be
covered over them to draw up the flowers, otherwise
the bloom will remain down amongst the leaves.
Tulips and Crocus do not succeed in Egypt.

Dahlias. — The tubers of these, should be planted
out in April, in rich soil, when they will grow
into large plants, and continue to bloom until late

Aquatic and Semi-Aquatic Plants. 79

in the autumn. During the growing season, manure-
water should be freely given, and the plants staked
securely. The tubers may be lifted in winter, but if
a spring effect is only^ required they may be left in
the ground, when they will make dwarf plants and
flower in April.

Gladioli. — The bulbs should be planted about the
end of December for a spring effect, and at the end
of March for a summer display, the American
bulbs being best for early planting. This plant, like
the Freesia, Ixia, &c., can be grown from seed.

Tuberoses may be planted at the end of April,
when they will flower in the late summer months ;
but if the bulbs are left in the ground, flowers will
appear in April and May, though it is thought by
some growers that the bulbs get a better rest and
produce finer flowers by being annually lifted. For
permanent beds the American Tuberose is the best.

Eucharis amazonica and Imantophyllum should be
cultivated in pots for conservatory decoration. They
flower best when their pots are full of roots, and
should be fed with weak manure water every
second or third day, as soon as their blooms appear,
or a little artificial manure added. They require re-
potting about once in three years, as over-potting
induces the plant to make foliage instead of flowers.
Plants of this kind should be kept growing in a
moist shady position all the year round.

Cyclamen. — The bulbs should be planted in
November, taking care that the crown of the bulb
is well above the surface of the soil in the pot, and
if stood in a shady, moist position, they will make
nice plants and flower well in the spring.

AQUATIC AND SEMI-AQUATIC PLANTS.

These ornamental plants are unfortunately too
much neglected. Many species, such as Nymphcea
(Water Lilies), Papyrus (Paper-reeds), Richardia
(Arum-lilies), Sagittaria (Arrow-heads), Aponogeton

8o Gardening in Egypt.

distachyon (Water Hawthorn), Nelumbium speciosum
(The Lotus), and many other aquatics grow well in
the ordinary garden fountain (Fusghieh).

Papyrus antiquorum, also known as Cyperus
Papyrus, is a native of Egypt. — This tall handsome
aquatic is, apart from its beauty, interesting, because
it is the plant that furnished the pith from which
the paper of the ancient Egyptians was made. It
is propagated from divisions, which ought to be
planted in a native basket (zambil)^ filled with Nile
mud, and tied at the top to prevent the plant from
floating out, and supported by large stones. The
plants should be divided in February.

Nelumbium speciosum — The Sacred Lotus. — The
most beautiful and graceful of all the Water Lilies,
having delicate pink flowers and large round leaves,
which rise considerably above the surface of the water.
At the same time it is interesting on account of
its remote historical associations. It was once a
native of this country, and is believed to have been
the " sacred beans " of Pythagoras, and the roots and
seeds were eaten by the Egyptians in the time of
Herodotus. Four thousand years ago it was the
emblem of sanctity in Egypt and to-day it occupies
the same position in the religion of the Buddhists
and Hindoos. The petals of the flowers are astringent,
and the fruit, which is like a large poppy capsule,
cut in half, is composed of a funnel - shaped re-
ceptacle made up of a number of separate carpels,
each containing a single seed, which are imported
into North - West India in large quantities from
China, the Malay Islands, and the warmer parts
of Asia, where the seeds and stems are used as an
article of food. To grow the plant the seeds should
be filed, so that the embryo or shoot may break through
the hard skin, and then enclosed in a ball of clay, and
placed in the water. The seeds are, however,
often lost or destroyed, as they often take a long time
to germinate.

Aquatic and Semi-Aquatic Plants. Si

Nymphsea caerulea and N. Lotus — The Egyptian
Water Lilies. — These plants are found growing wild in
many of the water-courses of the country, particularly
in those near the railway at Kafr Dowar. The
bulbs should be obtained early in February, before
the new leaves appear, and planted in baskets or in
pots. If in the latter, care should be taken to have
a large hole at the bottom and plenty of drainage,
or the soil will quickly become sour. Nile mud and
sand is the best compost for potting them, and the
plants should be stood a foot below the surface of
the water. They will soon begin to make new
leaves, which will float on the surface, and the flowers,
which are delightfully fragrant in the morning, are blue
with yellow centres, and begin to appear in May and
continuing throughout the summer.

N. pubescens, N. rubra, N. stellata var. zanzibarensis,
and others might also be grown, either from seed
or from bulbs. The latter is perhaps the best and
surest way of raising them, and the bulbs travel
well if packed in damp moss. The advantage of
planting aquatics in baskets is that by the free circu-
lation of the water the soil is less liable to become
sour, and if supported between large stones the roots
become firmly established before the basket rots.

Bichardia aethiopica — Calla. — The Arum or Lily of
the Nile can either be grown as an aquatic in water
or in moist beds of Nile mud and manure, little or
no sand being used. It is propagated by offsets of
the bulbs, which grow into fine handsome plants,
flowering nearly all the year round, and reaching their
best about the fourth year. During^the summer, an
occasional watering of manure or soot water will
greatly benefit the plants, and the beds should also
have a dressing of manure early in the spring. The
Arum Lily has a good effect when planted in water-
courses or any damp places with Calla maculata,
Myosotis palustris (Forget - Me - Not), and Iris
germanica.

G

82 Gardening in Egypt.

Thalia dealbata. — Native of N. America. Is also a
pleasing aquatic, with erect leaves and spikes of blue
flowers, which last for a considerable time. It grows
freely, and is easily propagated by diversions of the
roots in February. The plant is rare.

Victoria Regia. — This majestic plant, the largest of
all water lilies, with leaves of enormous size, often
over 6ft. across, was successfully introduced into
England in 1849. It has also been grown in Cairo,
and no ornamental water should be without it. The
seeds should be planted in small pots in January with
a little Nile mud, and placed an inch below the water,
in a tank that is well exposed to the light, and heated
artificially to Qodeg. Fahr. As the plant develops it
should be carefully placed into a larger pot. and planted
out in prepared beds, two metres square, composed
of Nile mud and turf, which should reach within a
foot from the surface of the water, according to the
size of the plant. They grow very rapidly and bloom
the first season.

SEMI AQUATICS.

Alpinia nutans. — Native of India. This plant,
which is known as Zombie by the Arabs, has leaves
like the ginger, and bears during the summer terminal
racemes of flowers resembling a Dendrobium Orchid.
It is easily propagated by divisions, and thrives well in
any damp place. The old stem should be cut down
after flowering, and the plant mulched with manure.

Monstera deliciosa. — Native of Mexico. A climbing
semi-aquatic, with large, perculated, spreading leaves,
and flowers in the form of a deep yellow spathe, pro-
ducing a long, succulent fruit of a delicious pine-
apple flavour, wnich takes a considerable time to ripen,
and is known under the name of Guista. Propagated
by cuttings.

Strelitzia reginaB — The Flamingo Plant. Native of
the Cape of Good Hope. — A very handsome plant
for the margin of ornamental waters, bearing large
spreading leaves like a banana, to which it has a

Chrysanthemums. 83

botanical affinity. It has handsome bright yellow
and pink flowers. Propagated by offshoots and seed.
Ravenala madagascariensis — the Travellers' Tree.
— A plant similar in form to the above-mentioned
species but bolder in habit, and worthy of intro-
duction into this country for large gardens. Other
plants of a semi-aquatic nature worth growing,
and already in the country may be noted ; for
instance, Xanthosoma robusta, X. violaceum, Cala-
dium esculenta^ Hedychium Gardineanum, H. corona-
rium, H. chrysoleucum, Colocasia antiquorum var.
Fortunesii, Arundo donax variegata, Phomium tenax
(Flat Lily), Cannas, &c.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

The number of varieties of these favourite plants
that succeed in Egypt is now very considerable, and
every year new ones are being introduced.

Although it is hardly to be supposed that flowers,
equal in size and beauty to those we see in England
can be produced here, yet with a certain amount of
attention very creditable blooms may be obtained.

One of the drawbacks to the successful cultiva-
tion of the chrysanthemum is that the native
gardeners have not yet learnt to grow the plants
annually from cuttings, and the consequence is that
old clumps flower in May much to the detriment of
their autumn blooms.

Many sections such as Japanese, Incurves,
Pompoms, Reflex, and a multitude of named florist
varieties all succeed more or less here, according to
the attention paid to them ; but the number is so
large and tastes differ so greatly, that in making
selections, choice must be left to the individual pur-
chaser.

CULTURE.

To obtain good plants, strong cuttings should be
taken from healthy clumps in February or March,
and struck in sandy soil, either singly in small pots
or three or four round the sides of a 3in. pot ; water

G 2

84 Gardening in Egypt.

them, and place the pots in a frame or a shady
position until they are well rooted, and then pot on
singly into larger pots. Keep the tops pinched off
until they make nice bushy heads, and see that the
plants are well watered and syringed to keep down
the black-fly. Any buds that appear in May should
be pinched off, and about the end of the month
plant out in well manured beds and give plenty of
water. Cut tall growing varieties to within ift. or
i ft. 6in. from the ground in August, and give them an
occasional drenching of manure-water at their roots
during the summer. The plant will then be of a
dwarf character and produce good flowers in great
abundance in November and December. This treat-
ment applies only to strong-growing varieties in the
open ground.

POT CULTURE.

For large flowering varieties, cuttings should be
struck about the middle of March, only strong
cuttings should be chosen, and not the side shoots
from the base of the old stems, using light sandy
soil and a little leaf mould. They should be planted
singly in small pots, and placed in a shady frame
until rooted. About the end of May they should be
potted into larger size pots, with a little well-decom-
posed or patent manure added to the compost, and the
pots well drained. The soil should not be filled up to the
top, but an inch or two should be left so as to hold
the water, and the plants placed in a half shady
position and syringed morning and evening until they
are well established. The tops should be pinched off
occasionally until the plants become bushy, allowing
from three to five stems only to remain, according
to the number of flowers required. The plants will
then commence to grow quickly ; and by the middle
or the end of June they will have filled their pots
with roots, and they should then be potted into their Sin.
or loin, flowering pots, using a compost of rich sandy
soil, chopped or charred turf with a few finely broken

Annuals. 85

bones, and a thin layer of well-decomposed manure
over the drainage, which should be carefully attended to.

When potting, the roots should in no way be dis-
turbed, and the soil must be firmly pressed round
them. The plants may then be well watered and
plunged with the soil up to the rim of the pot in sunny
beds. They should be irrigated according to their
requirements, which will be about every second day,
and alternate waterings with manure and soot water,
should be given every four days. Too much water
will be found to turn the foliage yellow.

Each shoot should be tied out separately early in
September with a neat stick, and the plants syringed
morning and evening so as to prevent the blight
and black-fly from injuring the young shoots.

As soon as the buds appear, the side ones ought to
be removed, leaving the terminal ones only three, six,
or eight flowers being sufficient for a specimen pot
plant. The plants, as they come into bloom, should
then be taken up, their pots washed, and stood in
suitable positions in the house, verandah, or the garden.

ANNUALS.

Since seeds can be obtained with the illustration
of their flowers on each packet, the amateur has no
longer any difficulty in making a suitable collection,
and arranging them according to their height and colour.

Many varieties, such as Phlox, Gaillardias, Poppies,
&c., will sow themselves, and come up year after year,
but most of the species mature their seed so rapidly
that the old seed is not worth keeping for the follow-
ing year, and fresh supplies had better be annually
obtained from a reliable firm so as to ensure success.

The seed should be sown in boxes or pans from
October to January, the display in Cairo being con-
siderably earlier than that of Alexandria, though the
light soil of the latter place suits them better. Sow
thinly in sandy soil, give plenty of drainage, and place
the seed - pans in a sheltered spot. Pot the seedlings
off, or plant out as soon as they are large enough

86 Gardening in Egypt.

to handle, care being taken not to injure the roots,
and to have a little soil attached to them, and plenty
of water given. The late afternoon is preferable to
the morning for placing out the young plants, as they
have time to recover before the sun reaches them, but
if a showery day can be chosen, so much the better.

Antirrhinums (Dragons' Mouths) should be sown
in August or September if flowers are desired in the
early spring, while a later sowing will produce plants
that will flower through the summer.

Petunias, Nicotiana affinis (The Tobacco), Zinnia
elegans^ Linaria^ Stocks, Salvias, Perennial Sunflower,
and Canna indica are useful for beds for summer
flowering. Eschscholtzia californica, Tegates erecta^
Tropceolum majus^ Lobelia, Linum grandiflorurny
Larkspur, Mignonette, Nigella, Silene, Portulaca
grandiflora, Shirley Poppies, Verbenas, Helichrysum,
Calliopsis, Scabiosa, and many others may be sown
in patches in the open ground for spring and
early summer.

Some varieties, such as Gaillardia (which are use-
ful for cutting during the winter) Calliopsis, Sca-
biosa, &c., become perennials, but the large majority
gradually die off as the summer sun gains power.

Sweet Peas may be sown thinly in pots and
afterwards planted out if required for border decoration.

Ornamental grasses are sometimes difficult to grow
by themselves if sown too thickly, but they will often
grow well if mixed and sown broadcast with Shirley
poppies or any light-growing annual.

BALCONY GARDENING.

In town houses, where plants are cultivated on
balconies, they will be found to thrive, and flower
much better if grown in boxes rather than in pots,
for by the latter method the young roots are destroyed
by being scorched by the sun as soon as they reach
the sides of the pot, and unhealthy plants are conse-
quently seen. If, however, boxes are used, their roots
can grow unchecked, and a clean and tidy balcony

Balcony Gardening. 87

full of healthy plants, instead of one filled with sickly
specimens in pots of all sizes, may be maintained.

In arranging a balcony for growing plants, boxes of
a suitable size should be made to fit into convenient
places. These should be tin-lined or tarred inside to
prevent the wood rotting. Large holes being made at
the bottom, and the boxes raised a few inches on
blocks to allow the water to pass away freely.

The outside may be covered with the bark of the Date
Palm or virgin cork nailed on to the wood and varnished,
or a coat of green paint could be given. Large pieces
of concave pottery should be placed over the holes
inside the boxes, and smaller pieces, to the depth of two
or three inches, should be laid on the top for drainage
covering them with a thin layer of dried grass or long
manure to prevent the soil from washing down, and then
fill the boxes to within two inches of the top with a
compost of rich, sandy soil and a little decomposed
manure, which can be obtained from a garden or nursery.
The boxes should be well watered and filled with
hardy, dwarf plants or annuals, with a plant ot
Stephanotis, Hoya, or Ivy trained round the rails or on
bamboo canes up the wall ; and trailing plants, such as
ivy-leaf Geranium, Saxifraga sarmentosa, Tradescantia
discolor, &c., may be allowed to hang over the side.
The boxes should be watered daily, and the plants
syringed morning and evening when the sun is off them
and a dressing of fresh soil and manure should be added
when the compost in the boxes becomes exhausted, and
the plants sheltered in winter by a mat.

PLANTS SUITABLE FOR A SHADY OR MOIST
POSITION.

Adiantum Capillus-veneris Arum Lilies

(on rocks) Aspidistra lurida

ALchmea fulgens Caladium esculentum

Agapanthus umbellatus Chlorophytum elatuni

A. albidus Cyclamen

An emones Hemerocallis flava

Amaryllis H. fulva (Day Lilies)

88

Gardening in Egypt.

Hoy a carnosa (Wax Plant)

Hydrangea

Ivy

Liliums

Monster a deliciosa (French,

Guista)
Narcissi

Nephrolepis exalt at a
N. acuta

Pancratium tnaritima
Peperomia clusiczfolia
P. marmorata
Pteris longifolia
Phormium tenax

P. tenax variegata
Polypodium aureum
. Reinwardtia trigynum
Ranunculus
Salvia coccinea
Saxifraga sarrnentosa

(Mother of Thousands)
Strelitzia regince( Flamingo

Plant)

Thalia dealbata (in water)
Tradescantia (Spider wort)
Vinca rosea
V. alba
Xanthosoma violaceum

LIST OF PLANTS SUITABLE FOR A WINDY

POSITION.
Cacti and Succulent plants, including

Agave

Aloe

Cereus

Cotyledon

Crassula

Echinocactus

Euphorbias

Arundo donax

A . donax variegata

Beaucarnea recurvata

Buddleia Madagascar iensis

Centaurea candidissima

Cineraria maritima

Cissus rotundifolia

Dasylirion acrotrichum

Eleagnus hortensis

Gazania splendens

Kleinia repens (Senecio)

Lonicera japonica (Honey-
suckle)

Lycium europczus (Sea
Buckthorn)

Gasteria

Marnmillaria

Mesembryanthemum

Opuntias

Phyllocactus

Rhipsalis

Stapelia, &c.

Nicotiana rustica (Persian
Tobacco)

Oleandra

CEnothera (Evening Prim-
rose)

Pelargonium, Ivy-leaf and
zonal varieties

Pittosporum undulatuai

Ricinus communis (Castor
oil)

Tamerix arborea

Yuccas

CHAPTER X.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLES.

FRUIT.

THE fruits cultivated in Egypt are varied and plenti-
ful : Oranges, Mandarins, Custard Apples, Figs, Grapes,
Melons, Apricots, Bananas, Pomegranates, and others
give abundance of fruit during their season ; but the
style of their cultivation is somewhat primitive, and
very little is done to improve their quality or introduce
new varieties. At the present time, fruit-growing holds
an important place in the industries of the world, and
if the matter was taken carefully in hand much might
be done to improve the standard of fruit-growing here
by grafting strong native stocks with new varieties,
systematic pruning and manuring, and also by the intro-
duction of many tropical fruits that are comparatively
unknown in the country, a list of which will be found
at the end of this chapter.

Soil, and the selection of a suitable site, is of the
chief importance, and some shelter, either by a wall
or hedge, should be afforded for the protection of
early blossoms from the strong sea winds for places
on the coast ; and those inland from the cold
winds from the desert.

The alluvial Nile soil is of course preferable to
one of a poor sandy nature, but if shelter can be
obtained, good results may be expected in the latter
if, at the time of planting, the holes are dug and
filled with good rich soil, and sufficient room is
allowed for each tree to develop ; while exposed
places, where little water can be obtained, could be

go Gardening in Egypt.

devoted to Grapes and Figs, the latter being planted
in a trench and the soil thrown up into a bank on the
exposed side, so as to form some shelter for the vines.

Anona squamosa — Custard Apple — Guista — Native
of the West Indies. A well known delicious fruit,
commonly cultivated in Egyptian gardens. The
trees, which are often of a dwarf shrub-like form,
grow readily from seed. It is the latest plant in
the country for transplanting, which should be done
about the end of March or early in April, when the
plant looses its leaves. Large trees transplanted with
balls of earth at their roots will fruit the same year.
The trees should be well manured in the winter, and
the ground lightly cut up. Water once a week in
dry weather until the buds appear, when water should
be withheld, otherwise the flowers will drop off, and
again occasionally when the fruit has formed. At
the time of ripening, the trees should be looked over
every morning and the fruit picked as it becomes
soft, or it will fall and be destroyed. The trees
should never be pruned, but occasionally a branch
may require cutting back or thinning out. A
variety known as Balady (or native), though inferior
to the former, is also grown.

Carica Papaya — Papaw, — A native of tropical South
America. In this country it is grown as an orna-
mental plant, but I am not aware that any use is
made of the fruit. The plant grows in the form of
an Aralia, having a single stem rising eight or ten
feet high, with a bunch of leaves at the top and a
cluster of green, pear-like fruit hanging at their base.
These should be thinned out soon after they form,
in order that those that remain may come to per-
fection, and the flowers that continue to develop should
be picked off. The trees should be frequently watered,
and the fruit, which ripens in the autumn, is agreeable
and wholesome when eaten with sugar, or preserved.

Plants can be propagated from seed sown in the
spring, but as they are of two sexes they will not all

Fruit and Vegetables. 91

produce fruit. The tree is said to have the property
of rendering tough meat tender by washing it in
water impregnated with the milky juice, or by
wrapping it in the leaves, which causes a separation
of the muscular fibres.

Citrus aurantium — Qrzngt-Bortugan. — There are
three varieties of Oranges grown in Egypt. The
Masri or Cairo Orange, a juicy, thin-skinned variety ;
the Dhum or Blood Orange ; and the Sharmi or
Jaffa Orange, a large, thick-skinned variety. A
sheltered position, where the blossoms can fully
develop, is one of the chief things in Orange cultiva-
tion. Very fair crops may be obtained on the poor
soil of Alexandria and Ramleh, though constant
attention must be paid to manuring, which should
be well decomposed and placed in a trench dug
round the trees.

In the rich alluvial soil of Cairo the trees grow to
a larger size than those near the coast, and produce
immense crops of fruit. If, however, the soil is too
heavy, lime rubbish should be mixed with it.
Oranges may he grafted in February and also at the
rise of the Nile on stocks of either the Naring (C.
Bigaradia), The Citron (C. media), or the Lemon
(C. Limonum). The first is largely used by the native
growers, from whom grafted trees can be purchased
at a very reasonable price. Blood Oranges are said to be
grafted on two-year-old stocks of the Black Mulberry.

C. Limonum — The Lemon — Limoun Balady. —
The common Lemon fruits three times a year, and it
is not unusual to see ripe and half-developed fruit,
together with the flowers . on the tree, at the same
time. The culture is similar to that of the orange,
and the trees should be occasionally thinned and
strong leading shoots shortened and suckers cut off.

Two other varieties, namely, C. decuma, Small Lemon
(Limoun Hindy], and C. Limonum var. dulcis Risso
(Limoun Helon\ or Sweet Lemon, are also grown. All
may be raised from seed or propagated by layers.

92 Gardening in Egypt.

C. nobilis — Mandarin — Yousef Effendi. — In the more
modern gardens the Mandarin is sometimes grown
with round bushy heads similar to an ornamental tree ;
and, like the orange, it requires a sheltered position
and a prepared soil if good crops are to be obtained.
Trees of this kind should have their tall shoots pruned
back in February, and care should be taken that the
soil is not too wet or too dry when the fruit is just
forming, otherwise much of it will fall. Where there
are very heavy crops a considerable quantity of fruit
will be sure to drop during the hot weather, as the
tree will be overladen, and nature will intervene in
order that it may not become impoverished. It might
be, perhaps, advisable, under such circumstances, in
small gardens, to go over the trees and thin out the
crowded fruit.

Irrigation should be done every fourteen days during
the summer, the time for which can be ascertained
by cutting up a piece of the soil to see if it is dry
beneath. Manure-water occasionally given at this time
when the soil is not too dry will also assist the trees.

In large plantations where little pruning is done, all
dead and useless wood should be cut out in April,
and a dressing of cow manure may be given every
second year in February to induce the roots to come
to the surface.

C. media — The Citron — Touroung Balady. — Com-
monly grown in the gardens as an ornamental tree.
It has bold, dark green foliage, and its large pendant
fruits of the size of an ostrich's egg are very ornamental.
It is easily propagated by ringing or layering.

All the Citrus tribe and plants with aromatic
leaves, such as the Sweet Bay, Croton, &c., are
attacked during the spring and summer, especially
in gardens near the sea, by a small brown scale.
This I have succeeded in destroying by syringing
with a solution of a wine-glassful of petroleum and
a small piece of soft soap to a pail of water,
which should be kept stirred while using, and apply

Fruit and Vegetables. 93

in evening with the syringe. Though this remedy
is effectual in killing the scale, they still remain
tightly glued to the leaves.

Eriobotrya japonica — Loquat — Beshmeyleh. — Native
of ^ China and Japan. A small tree with large rough
leaves, bearing clusters of plum-like fruit of a yellow
colour, and containing a large brown seed. The trees
are sometimes attacked by a maggot, which eats
away the pith in the stems. When this occurs it
will be found beneficial to paint the stems with a
mixture of equal parts of whiting, petroleum, and
soot, and to cut up the soil in the early spring.

The Loquat rarely makes any superabundant
growth, and therefore does not require pruning. A
good dressing of manure ought to be given in
January, and water frequently throughout the summer.
It is propagated by seed, which should be sown soon
after it is ripe, as it quickly loses its germinating power.

Fragaria vesca — Strawberry — Frowley. — Strawberry-
growing in the gardens on the coast has, during the
last few years, greatly increased, and considerable
areas are now under cultivation for the markets. The
larger varieties are unfortunately unnamed, but this is
possibly done to prevent a glut in the market, and
growers even go so far as to destroy all surplus
runners, so as to prevent the variety becoming com-
mon. Many experiments may therefore be made
before a variety suitable for the country is obtained,
but, as a rule, those that produce the least foliage
invariably give the best crops on light soil, while the
Black Prince is thought to succeed best on a heavier soil.

The beds should be made in August, the surface
soil being well dug, without turning the sub-soil. Well-
decomposed horse manure or night soil and ashes
should be applied heavily, and the beds made three
metres wide in order to facilitate irrigation.

In preparing the runners, those nearest the parent
plant and the largest of the remainder should be
taken and planted about Qin., with ift. 3in. between

94 Gardening in Egypt.

the rows. After planting, water ought to be given
every day until the young plants are established, and
later on once every six or seven days, according to
the weather and requirements.

About the end of February, or early in March, is
usually the time for the first fruit to ripen ; though, in
mild winters, it is not uncommon, even before Christmas,
to see Strawberries, and they continue to give fruit until
the end of June. During the fruiting season, the plants
should be watered after every picking, as water must
never touch the ripe fruit, which should be supported on
pieces of tiles to keep them clean, and in the neighbour-
hood of Cairo it is necessary to net over the fruit to
protect them from the crows.

In the middle of June, when the runners appear, a
light framework should be erected about four feet from
the plants, and covered thinly with palm-leaves. This
will induce the runners to grow more freely.

New beds should be made every second year, as the
crop the first year is by far the best, and where sufficient
runners can be obtained it is advisable to make new
beds annually. The most favourable position for
planting is under a south wall, as the early blossom is
then protected from the heavy rains and north-west
winds.

The Alpine Strawberry — Frowley Balady — is also
largely grown, and can be obtained either from seed or
runners. It grows freely in light sandy soil, and
produces an abundant crop of small well-flavoured
fruit in April and May. A space should be devoted
to this variety in every garden.

Ficus Carica — Fig — Teen. — The Fig is cultivated in
large quantities in the neighbourhood of Alexandria and
Ramleh, and bears abundant crops from June to
September. Those in Upper Egypt ripen a month
earlier, about the end of May.

The trees delight in a rich, sandy soil, and are usually
irrigated in the spring when the foliage appears, and again
at the rise of the Nile in August. Frequent watering
causes the fruit to drop. Their culture is very easy,

Fruit and Vegetables. 95

and with the exception of cutting out weakly shoots,
or dead wood, no pruning is required. Some culti-
vators recommend a slight dressing of manure every
second year, which should be applied in February
and lightly dug into the soil.

The Fig can be propagated by cuttings of ripe
wood, half a metre long, which should be taken in
the early spring and planted in sandy soil in a
slanting direction, with their heads just above the ground.

The following are the varieties, under their native
names, that are commonly grown : —

Saltarne — The Sidi Gabr Fig. — A long, large, red
variety used for drying and preserving.

Cou-met-re — The Pear Fig. — This variety is similar
to the former, but whitish instead of red. It is con-
sidered to be the sweetest of all.

Hub-bas-hee — A small black round variety.

Balady. — Round and flat.

Utsee — Round, flat, and red.

A-gay-ee. — A very sweet, green, flat, and round variety.

Others of a good quality might also be introduced.

Mangifera indica — The Mango. — A somewhat
dwarf tree with oblong dark green leaves like a
Ficus, and bears in April and May erect terminal
panicles of small whitish flowers. A few nice speci-
mens exist in the gardens of Cairo, but the fruit is
of little value. Much, however, might be done by
grafting and cuttings, as there are nearly as many
varieties of the Mango as there are of apples, and
consequently a considerable difference in the quality
of the fruit.

Musa sapientum — Banana — Mouz. — This dwarf
variety is largely grown in Lower Egypt in plantations,
and also in private gardens. It requires a rich, moist
soil and plenty of manure. The fruit, which is borne
at all seasons of the year, should be cut just before
it ripens, and hung in a dark room, where it will
become mellow and well flavoured. After fruiting,
the old stems should be cut away, the weakest of the

g6 Gardening in Egypt.

suckers thinned out, and a good surface dressing of
cow-manure given. The Banana is propagated by
suckers which are usually planted from two to three
metres apart in rows, and in well-manured ground,
each plant being allowed to develop three fruiting-
stems. A thinning of dead leaves should be made at
least twice a year.

M. rosacea. — Native of India. A tall, handsome
species, with red stems and large, graceful leaves. It
is usually grown more as an ornament than for fruit.
It bears a small, thick, dark-skinned fruit of a rich
flavour, but does not produce so good a crop as the
former variety.

M. Ensete. — A West African species of an exceed-
ingly ornamental appearance, grown chiefly as a
specimen plant, on lawns. It has a thick stem, and
large, handsome leaves, and requires two or three years
or even longer to flower. It may be propagated from
seed, but the fruit is useless, and the pla^t should
not be exposed to heavy winds, or the beauty of
the foliage will be destroyed.

Opuntia Ficus indica — Indian Fig — Teen Shok. —
The fruit, which is considered very wholesome and
nutritious, is borne in great quantities on large
cactaceous shrubs. It ripens in the middle of July, and
should be gathered early in the morning and eaten
at once, as it soon turns soft after picking. Care
should be taken when peeling the fruit that th^
minute thorns do not enter the flesh, as they are
difficult to extract. The plants, which make an ex-
cellent hedge for a dry windy position, can be grown
from cuttings taken in May, and no attention need
be given them after they have rooted. The leaves when
boiled can be used instead of size for whitewashing.

O. maxima and other varieties are also grown for
decorative purposes.

Physalis peruviana — Cape Gooseberry — Halwah,
— The plant which belongs to the Potato family

Fruit and Vegetables. 97

(Solanacece) is a dwarf herbaceous perennial, natura-
lised in the neighbourhood of Alexandria and
Damietta. The fruit, which is the size and colour of
a cherry, is developed in a leafy appendage. It can
be eaten raw, or made into a preserve, and is easily
propagated by seed.

Primus armeniaca — Apricot — Mich-mich. — Like
the fig, this fruit is largely cultivated throughout
Egypt. The trees, which bloom in February, delight
in a rich porous soil, and a sheltered position. The
common variety is grown from seed, and fruits about
the fifth year, they should never be pruned ; but only
the dead wood removed. In cutting away large
suckers it is advisable to bind over the wounds to
protect them from the sun until they have healed,
or otherwise they are likely to canker. As they are
surface-rooting trees, the ground beneath should not
be dug ; but a layer of decomposed manure, and
garden refuse spread over the surface and well watered
will greatly benefit them. At the time of flowering a
sweet smelling herb known as "Sheer" (Gypsophild) is
tied in pieces of palm fibre and hung in the branches to
prevent the flowers from being injured by insects.

Four varieties are grown in the country, namely : —

Balady^ the common variety, of a poor quality,
bears a heavy crop, and is the earliest of all. The
kernels are roasted and pounded by the Arabs, who
take them in the early morning with water as an
emetic. The fruit is ripe in May.

Cal-la-by, a small variety fruiting a month later.

Hum-oi-de, the largest and best variety, coming into
season about the middle of June. It should be grafted
on the three-years-old Balady stock, and can be eaten
raw or made into preserves.

Mich-mich Sharmi, a Syrian variety, with large, long
fruit. Is imported in July.

P. persica — Peach — Khokh. — A few common
varieties are occasionally grown, but are usually much
neglected. As a rule the European varieties usually

H

98 Gardening in Egypt.

degenerate, but many of these might be made to
succeed if grafted on strong plants of the former
stock or the Almond (Amygdalus communis) and other
established varieties, and thus the quality of the
Peach, Plum, Nectarine, Apricot, and other sections
of this tribe in Egypt might be considerably improved.
All healthy trees should have the branches that have
fruited pruned back, and water should be withheld when
the trees are in flower and until the fruit attains the
size of a pea, water then once a month will be sufficient.
Australian varieties would no doubt succeed in Egypt.

P. domestica — The Plum. — Two varieties of plums
are grown in the country, the above-mentioned, known
under the name of Hum-oi-de, and P. divaricata, known
as Balady. The former variety is considered the best,
and should be grafted on to the latter ; little attention
is, however, paid to their cultivation, and as the fruit
is consequently poor they are not often grown. Good
varieties might be introduced from. Japan.

Punica granatum — Pomegranate — Roumman. —
Often grown in the gardens on account of the
decorative nature of its flowers. The plants can be
raised from seed sown in October, and by cuttings or
layers, which should be made in February. Rich, well-
manured soil suits them best, but they require less
water than other fruits. Young wood and suckers
which often grow at the foot of the trees should be
cut away, and the branches that have fruited should
be pruned back in the winter when the leaves fall.

The following varieties are grown : —

Ma-le-ce, a large white variety.

Balady^ a blood-red variety, used for preserves.

Ma-grub-be (Tunisian), red and white.

Sharmi (Syrian), the fruit of which is pink.

The bark of the tree is used for tanning morocco
leather, and the roots are said to be an excellent
vermifuge.

Pyrus communis — Pear — Coumetre. — Fruits of this
kind, including the P. malus (Apple), Tofar^ are

Fruit and Vegetables. 99

occasionally met with in the modern gardens, and
although a variety may sometimes be found that will
bear fruit for a number of years, yet their culture
can scarcely be called a success, and they either
deteriorate by blooming at all seasons of the year, or
are destroyed by a maggot which attacks the Loquat
and eats away the pith in the branches.

Vitis vinifera — Grape — Aneb. — Some fifteen to
twenty varieties known under their native names
are said to be grown in the country. Most of them
are raised from cuttings, but few, from want of atten-
tion, can be said to be a complete success, and the
immense influx that is annually poured into the
markets during the summer from neighbouring
countries, may, perhaps, account for steps not being
taken to improve the local varieties. Like the Fig,
various opinions are expressed as to the proper system
of cultivation, and the quantity of water the vines
should receive.

The best grapes grown in Egypt are those that are
irrigated but twice during the year. Once after
pruning in February just as they begin to break, and
again after the fruit has formed, as frequent watering
causes the grapes to shank and drop, and promotes
an overgrowth of foliage.

Vines may be grown from cuttings about half a metre
long, taken in February, and planted in the ground in
a slanting direction so as to enable the cuttings to
root up the stem, leaving two eyes above the surface.
These should be trained over lattice work, and pruned
closely back to two eyes in February. Old plants
may also be pruned in the same month, and a good
dressing of decomposed cow manure and night soil
should be lightly forked in about the roots, and after-
wards well irrigated. They should be pruned closely
into the main stems, leaving two eyes only. Some
growers replace the old rods every third year.

For ground plantations the cuttings ought to be
planted three metres apart in the lines, and the same

H 2

IOO Gardening in Egypt.

distance should be left from row to row. They should
be pruned back to three eyes the first year, and the
annual pruning should be done closely, so that the
vines represent a bush.

The following are some of the chief varieties grown
in the country :

Sliowish. — This is the variety chiefly grown in
Egypt, and is the best for ground vineries. When
grown on the dry system, as seen at Gabarri, the
fruit is a large, long grape of a dark -red colour ; but
when badly grown, which often arises from too much
water, as previously mentioned, it usually becomes a
dullish green, and the bunches are long and thin.

Frowley or Strawberry Grape. — A variety with
slightly-lobed palmate leaves, which are white on the
under surface. The fruit is round and of a deep
red colour, with a fleshy, strawberry-like flavour. Its
origin is said to be Greek.

It is best when grafted on two-years-old plants of
the Showish variety, which should be done early in
February ; but when grafted in the cleft form on the
stems of old vines they will ripen their fruit earlier
than if grafted on young plants.

Bou-lis-se. — The earliest of all. It has small, round,
black fruit, borne in a compact mass on the bunches.
It is said by some to have a salty flavour.

Turkey. — A large, round, white variety.

Ben-ar-te. — Red, slightly rounded, and stoneless.

Muscat. — Red, long, and large.

Gaz-as-se. — Red and long.

Noi-wy-me. — Round and white.

Dron-khun. — Red and round.

Many of the best varieties from England might
also be introduced.

A list of new fruits likely to prove successful in Egypt :

Anona muricata — Sour Sop.

A. cherimolia — The Cherimoyer.

Arduina bispinosa — Natal Plum.

Averrhoa carambola — Chinese Black Currant

Blighia sapida — The Akee.

Fruit and Vegetables. 101

Chrysophyllum cainitum — Star Apple.
C. olivifonne — The Damson Star Apple.
Dillenia speciosa — Indian Green Apple,
Diospyros Kaki — Date Plum.
Eugenia Jambosa — Malay Apple,
Falcourtia Ramontehi — Governor's Plum.
Mammea americana — Mammee Apple,
Nephelium Lichi — The Lichee,
Persea graiissima — Avacado Pear.
Tamarindas indica — Tamarind.

VEGETABLES.

It is generally admitted that the ordinary vegetables
are cheaper to buy than to grow, but some of the better
kinds might well be cultivated if there is sufficient space
in the garden.

Agaricum campestris - - Mushrooms. - - Several
attempts have from time to time been made to cultivate
the mushroom in Egypt ; but owing partly to the want
of knowledge and a suitable place to grow them in,
and partly from the difficulty in obtaining the spawn,
the efforts have generally proved unsuccessful, although,
if their culture could be carried out with success, the
undertaking might be looked upon as a profitable one,

The following directions for their culture are given by
Mr. P. W. Gibson, late of the Garden Department, Hyde
Park, London, who has had several years of horticultural
experience in Egypt :

To make the beds, fresh horse-droppings should be
collected and placed in a heap to ferment ; after a
few days these should be turned over and a little
water added if dry, and in a day or two they should
be taken into a dark shed and made into beds, 2ft.
wide and ift. thick, the top of the beds being slightly
smaller than the bottom. These beds should be looked
to occasionally until the temperature remains stationary
at 7jdeg. Fahr., when the spawn, in pieces the size of
hens' eggs, should be inserted just below the surface,
As soon as the thread-like filaments appear, an inch
of light sandy soil should be spread over the beds,

IO2 Gardening in Egypt.

which should be previously moistened by a slight
sprinkling of water if dry.

In eight or ten weeks the mushrooms will appear,
when they should be cut off carefully so as not to injure
the roots. The crop will continue for some months.

Asparagus officinalis — Asparagus. — This plant is
found growing wild in the Nile valley. In the gardens
its cultivation is extending very rapidly, but generally
the crops are poor and the heads are very thin and
small in size.

The beds should be prepared about Christmas, in
the following way : First, the soil ought to be dug
about 3ft. deep, and ift. of clinkers, pottery, or broken
bricks thrown in, in order to facilitate drainage; then
a foot of the ordinary soil placed over the drainage ;
and, lastly, the remaining space filled with rich sandy
soil, which has previously been well mixed with old
decomposed manure.

The beds are made two or three metres wide,
and should not be raised as in Europe, but kept
low in order to facilitate watering by irrigation.
The seeds should be sown early in March in small
beds of their own, or can be planted somewhat earlier
in pots. If the former system is preferred, a few
pots of seedlings should always be kept to fill up
vacancies. When the seedlings are a year old they
may be planted out in their permanent beds. They
should be placed six inches apart, and a little salt
might with advantage be added to the soil. Water
must be given every second day, and the beds
never allowed to get very dry. The plants should
not be cut the first year after planting out, but
some people recommend picking off the seeds without
injuring the foliage, in order to strengthen the crowns.

The second year a crop may be expected, and
cutting should continue from March until July,
though the finest crop is in April and May. To
obtain white well-bleached heads, the Arab growers
recommend pieces of hollow bamboo cane being

Fruit and Vegetables. 103

placed over the crowns to protect them from the sun.
In January the beds may be lightly forked up on
the surface, and a good coating of manure added.
Some recommend sea water or salt to be given to
the beds in February before the heads appear, while
others say an occasional drenching of manure water
in March is very beneficial.

Brassica rapa — Turnip. — The seed should be sown
broadcast during the rains, for unless they grow
quickly they become stringy and hot. Carrots and
Radishes may also be sown in the same way.

Uynara scolymus — Artichoke — Kharchouf. — The
plants require a rich sandy soil ; seaweed or salt-
petre being recommended as a manure for them.
They may be raised from seed sown in July, or
divisions in August.

Phaseolus americana — American Bean. — This Bean,
which bears an excellent crop, is considered best for
a summer supply. They should be planted early in
April, in trenches a foot apart in double rows, leaving
4ft. or more between each trench, as they grow to a
considerable height. About the middle of June the
crop is ready, and where quantities are grown pick-
ings may be made daily until the end of November.
The crop requires to be heavily manured.

P. vulgaris — French Beans. — The seed should be
planted a foot apart on ridges, about the middle of
April, and water given every four or five days. The
crop may be picked in about five weeks.

Butter Beans. — This variety may be planted at any
time from April until August in trenches, each seed
being placed a foot apart, and four or five feet left
between the rows. They should have strong sticks
placed to support them about a month after planting,
and will be ready for picking in eight or ten weeks.

Pisum sativum — Peas — Vercilla. — The ground for
peas should be dug deeply, but not manured ; a little
saltpetre added to the soil is said to give good results,

IO4 Gardening in Egypt.

but the success of the crop depends much upon the
rainfall. The soil should be thrown up in ridges, on
which the peas may be planted three or four together
at intervals of about six or eight inches, and supported
with the canes of Arundo donax (known as "Bousa") or
dried branches as soon as the tendrils appear. The first
sowing may be made at the end of September, and
continue, at intervals of one month, until the beginning
of December. The pods should be cut off with a pair
of scissors, and not wrenched off with the hand, while
the best should be saved for the next season's sowing.
<c Early Longpods " and " Marrowfats " are two good
varieties. Some growers recommend a change of seed
every three years.

Solanum tuberosum — Potato. — The first crop may be
planted the last week in September. The seed should
be soft and pliable to the touch, and the eyes just
started. When planting, place the smallest end,
which contains the strongest eye, upwards. They
should not be cut, or they will turn black and the eyes
will not break. The plants should be ten inches apart,
and three feet from row to row Water should not be
given until a fortnight after planting, and when the
plants are four inches above the ground, they may be
earthed up and water given once a week in dry weather.

Planting may be continued up to the end of January
as the ground becomes vacant, and a light dressing
of road sweepings may be given when preparing the soil.

In three or three-and-a-half months after planting
the crop will be ready for lifting. Varieties such as
the French Round or red kidney potatoes, and the
" Early Shores " (a rough-skinned variety) are, perhaps,
the best.

S. melongena — Egg Plant — " Beydingan." — The
plants are raised from seed, sown in well-manured
ground in April.

The time for sowing other vegetables will be found
in the " Garden Calendar."

The Garden Calendar. 105

THE GARDEN CALENDAR.

January. — Borders should be dug up and the soil
left open. Uneven growth on trees and shrubs should
be cut back.

Path-making, rockeries, raising of mounds, and work
where soil has to be carried, may now be pushed forward.

Paths should be rolled after each rain and lawns
cut and rolled when dry. Chrysanthemums may now
be cut down, divided, and planted out in nursery beds,
or stored away in their pots for cuttings in April.

Give a surface dressing to Loquats, Mishmish, Figs,
Peaches, Plums, Mandarins, and Oranges.

Prune the first batch of La France Roses that are
sheltered about the middle of the month.

Keep Maidenhair Ferns and Anthuriums drier than
usual, and place in a light position Orchids that are
throwing up new flower spikes.

Climbing plants in houses that are dormant may
now be pruned and washed. The paint and inside
glass in the greenhouse should also be cleaned with
warm, soapy water. Close the houses early in the
afternoon. The last crop of Peas may now be sown
and late Potatoes planted.

February. — Transplant Date and Ornamental Palms
about the 8th of this month. Prepare ground for per-
manent lawns of Neguil. Fruit and ornamental trees,
shrubs, and climbing plants may now be removed.

Prune Roses, Mandarins, Vines, and Mulberries, about
the middle of the month. Give rose beds, vine borders,
and bulbs a dressing of manure. Plant out Pansies,
Asters, Stocks, &c., that are large enough.

Large branches of Tamerisk and Lebbek may now
be planted for forming new trees.

Roses may be budded towards the end of the month ;
Vines, Oranges, and Peaches may also be grafted.

Sow seeds of Poinciana, Eucalyptus, Acacia, Pinus,
Cassia, Tecoma, and pot the first batch of Caladium
bulbs. Maidenhair Ferns may now be re-potted, and

106 Gardening in Egypt.

Azalias, Narcissus, Cyclamen, as they come into bloom,
should be removed into a cool greenhouse.

Water-lily bulbs may now be obtained and potted.

Sow Spinach, Lettuce, and Endive.

March. — Amaryllis, Imantophyllums, and other bulbs
that are coming into bloom, should have manure-water
given them, and Hyacinths covered with inverted pots.

Lawns and paths should be frequently rolled, hedges
clipped, and dead wood cut out of trees. Filfil trees
should also be cut back. Syringe the foliage of Crotons
in houses and leave a ventilator slightly open at night.

Roses that have not been budded should now be finished.

Caladiums that have well started may now be potted
on, and fresh moss added to the surface of Anthuriums.

Slugs and snails should be caught by putting pieces
of cabbage leaf and potato on the stages in the
greenhouse, which should be examined early each
morning, and orchid spikes protected by pieces of
cotton-wool. Cuttings of Heliotrope, Pittosporum, Jas-
minum, and all bedding plants may be made. Gladioli
may now be planted.

April. — Roses will now be at their best. Pick off rose-
beetles and dead flowers. Give climbers in the green-
house a top-dressing of manure, and manure-water to
Cycads. Syringe newly-potted palms.

Buddleya Madagascar iensis and Lantania hybrida
should now be cut back and Chrysanthemum cuttings
taken. Give newly made lawns a light coating of
manure, and keep the turf well cut and rolled.

Towards the end of the month the garden will
require watering twice daily with the hose. Plant
Tuberoses ; Bamboo roots may also be planted, and
Poinsettias and Montanoa grandiflora should now be
pruned. Sowings of French Beans, Vegetable Marrows,
Tomatoes, and Egg Plants may now be made.

May. — Summer bedding plants may be planted out,
and Libea planted for summer lawns. Neguil may also
be sown for permanent lawns, and cuttings of Mesembry-
anthemum and all cactaceous plants should now be taken.

The Garden Calendar. 107

Water copiously newly-planted palm trees, shrubs,
&c. Those that have lost their leaves should be
occasionally syringed.

Dahlias for summer flowering may be planted.

Trees should be propagated by ringing, &c.

Glasshouses should be well ventilated and supplied with
plenty of moisture. Shading also will now be required.

Sowings of American, French, and Butter Beans,
Vegetable Marrows, and Egg Plants may also be made.

June. — Chrysanthemums that are forward should be
shifted into their flowering pots.

Flowering Cacti in pots should be plunged in sunny
beds, and all plants in the greenhouse, with the
exception of Ferns, Anthuriums, Orchids, Caladiums,
and very tender plants should be stood outside under
a light shading of palm leaves ; and those that have
filled their pots with roots should be potted on.

Strict attention must now be paid to watering, and
plants syringed night and morning.

Continue to sow American, French, and Butter Beans,
Egg Plants, and Vegetable Marrows.

The ventilators in the houses should now be left
half open at night during the next four months.

July. — Lawns from grass seed that became brown and
dry at the end of last month should now be cut up and
allowed to remain until September.

Large trees should have their summer pruning, also
pruning the large roots, and mulching with night soil
may now be done. Trenches should be made round
all large specimens for the irrigation and manure water.
Sow Artichokes, Cabbage, and the last sowing of Beans.

August. — Pot Crotons, Chrysanthemums in the open
ground should now be cut back. Supply Dahlias,
Hollyhocks, and all flowering shrubs with manure-water.

Turf and manure should be stacked for spring potting.

Carnation and Croton cuttings may be taken.

Strawberry beds should now be made, and any
grafting or budding should be done at the end of
this month. Hedges may be clipped. Rose-beds

lo8 Gardening in Egypt.

mulched with manure and the water supply increased.
Sow Cabbage, French Beans, and Cauliflowers.

September. — Budding and grafting should be finished
this month. Lawns should be prepared for grass seed.

Chrysanthemums in pots should have their shoots tied
out. Plants in pots should be looked over and cleaned,
and continue to give them manure-water twice a week.

Plant first batch of Potatoes the last week this month.

Sow Broad Beans, Spinach, Lettuce, Beet, and Endive.

October. — Annuals may be sown about the middle of
the month. Grass lawns from seed should be cut and rolled.
Plants in pots may be cleaned and got ready for housing
next month. Grass lawns from seed should be sown and
finished this month, and hedges and borders clipped.

Climbing plants may be gone over, and untidy shoots
cut back or layered. Sow Turnips, Broad Beans,
Spinach, Endive, Lettuce, Carrot, and Beet.

November. — Plants that have stood out during the
summer should be placed in the glasshouse this month.

Lilies, Cyclamen, Narcissus, and all spring flowering
bulbs may now be potted. Continue to sow annuals for
a late show. Manure-water should be discontinued, and
the houses closed just before the sun is off them, and
heavy shading removed.

Datura and summer flowering shrubs may be pruned
back. Paths should be repaired, and the drainage
attended to. Sow Celery, Beet, and Peas. Continue to
plant Potatoes.

December. — Paths and lawns should be swept and
rolled, and borders raked, and things kept neat and tidy.

Large Fan Palms in windy gardens should have
their leaves tied up, and trees should be staked and
protected from the wind. Asparagus beds should be
made at the end of the month. Plant Potatoes, sow
Peas ; Asparagus also may be sown in pots.

The temperature of glasshouses should be looked
to by closing them about 2 p.m. in the afternoon, and no
moisture should be allowed to remain on the foliage.

INDEX.

A.

Areca lutes cens

... 32

Aristolochia

Acalypha ...

...

Brasiliensis . . .

.'.'. 48

hispida
marginata

... 40

... 40

elegans

... 48

Wilkesiand . . .

... 40

glgas ...
Aroids

68

Acacia nil otic a
Adansonia...
digitata
Adiantum ...
culture of
A gar i cum ...
campestris
Agaves
Americana

... 16

... 17
... 69
... 70

... 101

... 74
... 74

Artichoke ...
Asparagus ...
officinalis >..
plumosus
plumosus nanus
Astrocaryum
mezicana
Azalia

... uo

... 107

... 102
... 102
... 71
... 71

... 32

... 45

glauca ...

... 74

B.

Albizzia

Lebbek ...

... 17

Balanites.

... 18

procera

... 17

egyptica

Aliantus glandulosa

... 17

Balcony Gardening

..'. 86

Aloe

74

Bambusa

frutescens

... 74

arundinacea . . .

... 40

vera ...

... 74

japonica

... 41

Alpina

...

nana

... 41

nutans ...

... 82

nigra ...

... 41

American Beans ...

... 103

Banana

... 95

Annuals

... 85

Banksia

... 47

Anona

Bauhinia ...

... 18

squamosa

... 90

aculeata

Anthurium ...

... 86

purpurea

18

Antigonon ...

reticulata

... 18

insigne

48

tomentosa

... 18

leptopus

... 47

Beaumontia

• ••

Apricot

... 97

grandiflora . . .

... 48

Aquatics

. .- 79

Biota

Araucaria ...

orientalis

... 41

Bidwillii

... 22

Bougainvillea

... 49

Cookii ...

... 22

glabra ... ...

... 49

Cunninghamii

... 22

spectabilis

... 49

excels a

... 21

Boussingaultia

Aralia

baselloides

... 54

digitata

... 39

Broussonetia

Jilicifolia

... 40

papyrifera

'.'.'. 18

papyrifera

... 40

Buddleia

pentaphylla . . .

... 40

madagascariensis

... 48

Areca

...

Bulbs

... 77

Baueri

.:. 32

Butter Beans

... 103

no

Index.

c.

Cocos plumosa

33

Ccesalpinia ...

Weddeliana

33

Bonducilla

10

Cordia

pulcherrima . . .
r^lla

X

... 19

Sr

Myxa ...
Croton

18
4i

V^-dllcl ... ...

Callitris

quadrivalvis ...
Calotropis
procera
Camellia
Canna
Cape Gooseberry ...
Carica Papaya
Caryota
Cassia

... 0 1

... 20

... 45
... 45
... 83
... 96
... 90
... 32

... 20

aucubcefolius superbus
aucubcefolius gigantetis
Cryptomerta
japonica
Cryptostegia
grandiflora
Cttpressus ...
fastigiata
horizontalis
sempervirens ...

4i
42

20
49

20
2O
20

bicapsularis . . .
festula...
Ceratonia ...
Siliqua

... 2O
... 19

... 19

Cycas
circinalis
revoluta
Cyperus
rotundas

37
37

ii

Cercis ... ...
canadensis
Siliquastrum

... 19

... 18

Cynodon
dactylon

ii

Ccrcus

D.

trigonis

... 75

Dahlia

78

Chamcedorea, sp ...

... 33

Datura

Chamcerops ...

alba

43

Fortunei
Chrysanthemum ...

... 33
... 84

fastuosa
rose a ...

"j
43
43

culture of

... 83

suaveolens

43

Cineraria maritima

... 88

Dolichos

" j

Citharexylu m

sinensis

54

timer eum

... 19

Draccena

Citrus

ferrea ...

43

Aurantium ...

... 91

culture of

43

Limonum

... 91

Duranta

medica ...

... 92

Plumieri

14

nobilis ...

... 92

E- '-C. •'

Clematis

.

Jackmanii

... 50

Egg Plant

104

Climbing plants ...

... 46

Epiphyllum

75

culture of

... 47

Ertabotrya ...

Clitoria

japonica

93

ternatea

... 49

Erythrina ...

Coniferas

... 20

crista-galli

23

Conservatories

... 67

Corallodendron

24

management of

... 66

indica ...

24

Cocos

Eucharis

flexuosa

... 32

amazonica

79

nucifera

... 33 Eucalyptus...

Index.

in

Eucalyptus amygdalina ...

24

Hoya carnosa

... 50

globulus

24

Hyacinths ...

... 78

resinifolia

24

Hyophorbe ...

Euphorbiaccee

75

amaricaulis . . .

— 34

Euphorbia . ,;

Hyphcene ...

jacquiniceflora

23

thebaica

••• 34

nerifolia

23

\

pulcherrima ...
pulcherrima alba

23
23

Indian Fig ...
Ipomcea

... 96

F.

Bona-nox

... 50

Ficus ...

24

cairica ...

... 51

bengalensis

2?

Iris

Carica

-j

94

gennanica

... 81

eriobotryoides ...

25

T.

infectoria
japonica
macrophylla ...
nymphceifolia ...
religiosa
retusa var nitida
sycamorus
Fig ...

26
26
25
25
26
26
26

Q4.

j •
Jacaranda ...
mimosifolia . . .
Jasmznum ...
Double Tuscan
fruticans
grandiflora
humile ...

".' 26

... 51
... 51
... 51
... 51

Flower Beds
Fragaria vesca
French Beans

s^

12

93
103

ojftcinale
revolutum
Sambac
K.

... 51
... 51
... 51

G.

Kentta

Garden

Austral is

... 34

management of

5

Belmoreana . . .

"34

Gardenias ...
Gazania

45

Canterburyana
Fosteriana

JT^

.- 34
••• 34

rigens ...
Gladioli
Glasshouses

13
79
65

Kigelia
pinnata
Kleinia

... 27

Glorias a ...
superba

78

repens ...

... 75

Grapes

99

.
Laginaria ...

•

vulgaris

... 52

Hakea

Lagunaria ...

Hedera

PatUrsonii

... 27

Helix

5°

Lantana

Hedges

J3

nivea ...

... 54

Hibiscus

44

Latania

mutabilis

44

aurea ... •••'^

••• 34

rosa-sinensis ...

14

borbonica

... 34

schizopetala

44

rubra

••• 34

syriacus

44

Lawns

9

Hoya

50

Leaf soil

... 70

112

Index.

Lemon

... 91

p.

Lilium auratum . . .

... 77

Palms

... 29

longifolium . . .

... 77

Pandanus ...

Lippia nodiflora ...

... 10

odoratissimus . . .

.'.'.' 36

Lonicera chinensis

... 51

Veitchii

... 37

sempervirens, var.

minor 5 1

Papyrus

M.

antiquorum . . .

.*;; so

Parkinsonia

Mangifera

...

aculeata

.'.*." 28

indica ...

... 95

Passiflora ...

...

Meila

ccerulea

... 54

Azedarach

... 27

Constance Elliot

... 54

Melaleuca ...

... 47

edule

... 54

Mesembryanthemum

... 76

quadrangularis

... 54

cordifolium . . .

... 76

Paths

... 7

crystallinum . . .

... 76

Peas

, 10^

ednle ...

... 76

Peach

... 97

Metrosideros

... 47

Periploca

Metroxylon...

lavigala

.,. 52

sagus ...

.;. 35

Phaseolus ...

Momordica ...

...

americana

... 103

balsamina

... 5i

Caracalla

... 54

Monsteria ...

vulgaris

... 103

deliciosa

... 82

Phoenix:

Musa

canariensis

... 35

enseti ...

::: 96

dactylifera

... 30

rosocea...

... 96

leonensis

... 35

sapientum

... 95

rupicola

... 35

Mushrooms...

... 101

Physalis Peruviana

... 96

Mysotis

Pinus

...

palustris

... 81

elata ...

... 23

Myrtus communis...

... 14

halepensis

... 22

longifolia

... 23

.

Pinaster

... 23

Narcissus ...

... 77

Pinea

... 23

Nelumbium

...

Pisum

speciosum

... 80

sativum

... 103

New Holland Plants

... 47

Pittosporum

... 13

Nymphoea ...

... 81

undulatum

... 44

ccerula ...

... 81

Plumeria ...

... 28

Lotos

... 81

Podocarpus...

...

O.

Totara

... 21

Poinciana

...

Orange

... 91

regia ...

... 27

Orchids

... 71

Pomegranate

... 98

Terrestrial

... 69

Potato

... IO4

Celestial

... 69

Potting

... 69

Opuntia

Potting Soil

... 70

ficus-indica . . .

.*:: 96

Prunus

... 97

Index.

Prunus armeniaca . . .

... 97 i Sphagnum Moss ...

... 68

domestica

... 98 i Stephanotis

-. 53

Per sic a

— 97 floribunda

... 52

Punica

Strawberry

••• 93

Granatum

'.'.'. 98

Strelitzia

Pyrus

regincB

'.'.'. 82

communis

;;; 9s

T.

Malus ...

... 98

Taxodium ...

Q-

distichum

... 20

Quisqualis ...
indica ...

... 52

Taxus
baccata...

... 21

fastigiata

... 21

.

Tecoma

...

Radish

...

capensis

... 53

Ravenala ...

Cavendishii . . .

... 28

madagascariensis

... 83

jasminioides . . .

... 53

Rhapis

radicans

... 53

flabelliformis ...

... 35

stans ...

... 28

Rhynchospermum . . .

Thalia dealbata ...

... 82

jasminoides . . .

... 52

Thrinax

Richardia (or Calla)

elegans ...

"! 36

cethiopica

81

parviflora

... 36

maculata . ...

... 81

Tradescantia

Roses

... 56

tricolor

!!! 86

cultivation

... 57

Tuberose ...

... 79

descriptive list

... 58

Turnip

... 103

S.

V.

Sabal

Vegetables

... 101

Blackburniana

... 35

Victoria

princeps
Salisburia ...

... 36

Regia ...
Vitis vinifera

..'. 82
... 99

adiantifolia . . .

... 21

W.

Salix

Washingtonia

...

(Egyptica

..! 28

filifera ...

... 36

babylonica

... 28

Wistaria

Schmtfs

...

polystachya ...

... 54

Molle

... 28

X.

terebinthifolia
Seaforthia
elegans...

... 14
!-!! 36

Xanthosoma
robusta

-.v; 83

Semi-aquatics

... so

.

Solandra ...

Yucca

... 76

grandiflora

••- 53

gloriosa

... 76

Solanum

aloifolia

... 76

Melongena

... 104

Z.

Seaforthiana ...

.- 53

Zamia ... ...

.... 37

tuberosum
Wendlandii . . .

... 104

••• 53

integrifolia
Lindeni

... 37
... 37

THE LARGEST AND FINEST STOCK

OF

©RCHIDS

IN THE WORLD.

Establishments: ST. ANDRE, BRUGES, and
ST. ALBANS, HERTS.

Inspection

SANDER,

ST. ALBANS.

THE Great Northern Eailway Company have opened a station in
our establishment (St. Albans), and visitors by giving notice (at
Hatfield station) to the Guard of the train they travel by will alight in
our glass houses. The establishment is reached in half-an-hour by
Midland Eailway from St. Pancras, and forty-five minutes by London
and North-Western Eailway from Euston. The Nurseries are entirely
devoted to the cultivation of Orchids and new plants, and contain nearly
four acres of glass.

Quotations, Priced Lists for all Climates,
and all particulars on application.

PLANTS, SEEDS, & BULBS.

lyrR. WILLIAM BULL'S Illustrated Catalogue of NEW
AND RARE PLANTS, price Is., contains names
and prices of :

Choice New and Rare Plants

Choice Greenhouse Plants

Choice Ferns

Choice Crotons

Choice Pelargoniums

Choice Caladiums

Choice Stove Plants

Choice Hardy Plants

Choice Orchids

Choice Liliums

Choice Palms

Choice Chrysanthemums

&c., &c.

p^-»>V^NrNX%X>»»-wr^-<

The CATALOGUE of SEEDS

Contains many novelties of sterling merit both in

VEGETABLE AND FLOWER SEEDS.

THE BULB CATALOGUE

Contains prices of all the best kinds in

HYACINTHS, TULIPS, CROCUS,

DAFFODILS and NARCISSUS,

GLADIOLUS, IRIS, &c., &c.

APPLY TO

WILLIAM BULL.F.L.S.,

Establishment for New and Rare Plants and Seeds,

53§f BIHG'8 H©J&©, CSBMBA,
LONDON, S.W.

ESTABLISHED 1854. &£S£$L5& ESTABLISHED 1854.
BY ROYAL WARRANT.

B. S. WILLIAMS & SON,

Nurserymen, Seedsmen, and Florists to the Queen,
Victoria and Paradise Nurseries,

UPPER HOLLOWAY, LONDON, N.,
AND AT 169, PICCADILLY, LONDON, W.

NURSERY DEPARTMENT.

These Nurseries contain a large show Conservatory, Orchid Houses, new Plant
Houses, Fern Houses, Palm Stoves, Greenhouses, &c., tilled with handsome specimens.
It is at all times well worthy of a visit, and is easy of access.

NEW AND GENERAL PLANT CATALOGUE. (Published in Spring, post free.}
Containing select Lists of Choicts Exotic Orchids, Ferns, Stove, and Greenhouse Plants,
Indian Azaleas, Camellias, Variegated and Ornamental Foliaged Plants, Fuchsias,
Pelargoniums, Rhododendrons, Verbenas, Petunias, Phloxes, Cinerarias, Chrysanthe-
mums, Hardy Variegated Pianrs, Koses, &c. A large collection of all the leading as
well as all the new varieties of CHRYSANTHEMUMS is always on hand.

SEED AND BULB DEPARTMENT.

Particular attention is given to this branch of the business. B. S. W. and Son's world-
renowned Flower and Vegetable Seeds are selected with great caie, warranted true to
jjame, and are unrivalled for excellence of quality.

Potatoes, Agricultural Seeds, Horticultural Implements, Sundries, and all Garden
Requisites kept in stock.

Home and Export Orders promptly executed and forwarded by the most expeditious
route.

DESCRIPTIVE AND PRICED SEED CATALOGUE. (Published in January
post free.) All orders for S^eds amounting to £1 and upwards will be delivered Free of
Carriage. All Packets of Flower Seeds are forwarded Free by Post.

BULB CATALOGUE. (Published in Autumn, post Jree.) Includes Selected Lists
of B. S. W. and 6on's Gold Medal Exhibition and other choice Hyacinths, Tulips,
Narcissus, Crocus, Ranunculus. Amaryllis, Ixias, Gladioli, Liliums, Begonias, and all
other choice and rare kinds of Bulbs of the finest quality, with useful suggestions as to
culture, &c. ; also

FINE STOCKS OF VINES, FRUIT TREES, SHRUBS
and TREES of Every Description.

FURNISHING CONSERVATORIES, &c.

Estimates are also given for keeping Conservatories. Entrance Halls, Jardinieres,
Fern Cases, Window Boxes, &c., regularly tilled with Plants; also for supplying
Plants for Table and Drawing-room Decoration, changing them as often as may be
necessary.

Our Bouquets for Weddings and Balls, our Wreaths, Crosses, and other Designs for
Funerals, also Loose Cut Flowers, Feins, &c., for Table Decoration, executed by our
Court Florist, are unsurpassed by any House in Town.

Cut Flowers, securely packed, can be sent to any part of the United Kingdom by
Parcel Post upon the shortest notice, on receipt of either letter or telegram.

Floral Decorations for Balls, Fetes, and Public Ceremonies carried out to any extent.
A large Stock of Plants and Cut Flowers is kept at the West End Branch, where Orders
may be received for any article we supply.

Landscape Gardening: and Horticultural Building.

Estimates on the lowest terms are given for laying out Parks, Pleasure Grounds,
Gardens, &c., also for erecting Greenhouses and Conservatories, and planting of
Ferneries, &c., Heating and Ventilating on the most improved principles. Ladies or
Gentlemen who contemplate constructing Conservatories, Stoves, &c., should pay these
Nurseries a visit to inspect the Plant Houses, which have been erected by our own
Mechanics, when any advice or other information will be gladly given.

THE GARDEN.

& §om solicit
owi
and

S-toc/fr, cw9 a^e 4/fi,e moot
o|

-to
cvn3 a^oo ^o " ©owe

E. H. DAY, Esq., Assiout, Upper Egypt, says:

" Dear Sirs, — I am glad that I can get plants and seeds from
you in good condition, and although the last lot was received in
the hot season, I only lost two. I am coming to England shortly,
and will call and order some more to be sent here."

[This gentleman did so, and will no doubt gladly speak of us if applied to.-—
H. C. & SONS.]

H.I.M. THE SULTAN OF TURKEY.

" Imperial Palace, Bache Naze, Constantinople,

" March 20th.

" Have received the plants and seeds according to my order
in good condition, and beg to thank you for your kind attention.
" Truly yours,

"His Excellence RAOUF BEY."

And also on May 3ist, 1895.

" I herewith send remittance for plants, seeds, &c., and am
glad to say they arrived in good condition, and are satisfactory.
" Truly yours,

"His Excellence RAOTJF BEY."

CANNELL & SONS,

SWANLEY, KENT,

BUTTON'S SEEDS

For use in EGYPT.

BUTTON'S
SPECIAL EXPORT COLLECTIONS

OF

VEGETABLE $> FLOWER SEEDS

Supplied at the undermentioned prices : —

VEGETABLE SEEDS.

£ s. d.
10 10 0
550
440
330
220
110
0 10 6
'0 7 6
050

FLOWER SEEDS.

£ s. d.
550
440
330
220
1 11 6
110
0 10 6
076
050

Button's Composite Collection of

VEGETABLE AND FLOWER SEEDS, 10s, 6d,

All the prices include an air-tight case, ivhich will be found useful for
many purposes after the Seeds have been removed.

PRICED LISTS OF VEGETABLE AND FLOWER SEEDS

POST FREE ON APPLICATION.

SUTTON & SONS, READING, ENGLAND.

CARTERS'

Post Free Collections of

"TESTED" ENGLISH SEEDS,

Carefully Arranged & Suitably Packed for all Parts of the World.

PEAS, best sorts.

CAULIFLOWER, best sorts.

KOHL RABI.

ONIONS, best sorts.

COUVE TRONCHUDA.

SPINACH.

BEANS, Dwarf and

Runner.
BEET.

CELERY, White and Red.
LEEK.

Carters' Box, containing useful quantities of the above varieties, sent

packing and postage free to all parts within the Parcel Post Union, on

receipt of remittance or an order for payment in England, price 16s.

Soxes containing larger quantities, price 23s. , 43s.9
56s., 70s., 90s., and 12Os.

ASTER.

AMARANTHUS.

ANTIRRHINUM.

BALSAM.

BEGONIA.

CALLIOPSIS.

CANARY CREEPER.

CANDYTUFT.

CELOSIA.

CHRYSANTHEMUM.

EGETABLE SEED,

POTATO SEED.
TURNIP, White and
Yellow.
KALE, Thousand-headed.
CABBAGE, best sorts.
LETT UCE, Cos and
Cabbage.
PARSLEY.
VEGETABLE MARROW.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

5.

SAVOY.
CAPSICUM.
CUCUMBER.
TOMATO.
MELON.
RADISH, best sorts.
CARROT, best sorts.
HERBS.
EGG PLANT.
MUSTARD AND CRESS.

FLOWER SEEDS.

EVERLASTING FLOWER.

MIGNONETTE.

GAILLARDIA.

NASTURTIUM.

GLOBE AMARANTHUS.

NEMOPHILA.

GODETIA.

PER ILL A.

GOLDEN FEATHER.

PETUNIA.

HEARTSEASE.

PHLOX.

HELIOTROPE.

POLYANTHUS.

IPOM^EA.

PORTULACA.

LARKSPUR.

SALPIGLOSSIS.

LINUM.

STOCK.

LOBELIA.

SWEET PEA.

LUPINUS.

SWEET WILLIAM.

MARIGOLD.

VERBENA.

MARVEL OF PERU.

WALLFLOWER.

MAURANDYA.

ZEA.

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM.

ZINNIA.

CONVOLVULUS.
DAHLIA.
DELPHINIUM.
DIANTHUS.

ESCHSCHOLTZIA.

Carters' Box, containing large packets of the above, and giving an infinite

variety of colour, sent packing and postage free to all parts witbJn the

Parcel Post Union, on receipt of remittance or an order for payment in

England, price 22s.

Smaller Boxes, containing selections from the above
list, price 7s. 6d,, Us., and 17s.

All Orders must be accompanied by a Remittance to Cover Value, or
the Goods must be paid for in England.

Postal Orders to be made payable to JAMES CARTER & CO., at the General
Post Office, London.

WE SHALL BE PLEASED TO SEND COPIES OF OUR

Illustrated Catalogues of Agricultural or Garden Seeds

Post Free to any part of the world on application.

Seedsmen by Royal Warrants to H.M. the Queen, and H.R.H. the Prince
of Wales, to the Home, Colonial, and many Foreign Governments.

237, 238, $ 97, HIGH HOLBORN, LONDON.

Ransomes'

Patronised by
the QUEEN

and the
PRINCE of WALES

\

\

Highest and

Only Award,
Forestry . .
. . Exhibition,
1893.

Lawn Mowers.

RANSOMES' "NEW AUTOMATON,"

WITH CHAIN OR WHEEL GEARING.

Confidently recommended as THE BEST LAWN MOWER IN THE

WORLD. Graceful in design, easy to work, quiet in action, cuts without
ribbing, producing a fine, velvety surface. Rolls the whole of the Lawn ;
no further rolling required. Has a large, open Cylinder, dealing with long
or short grass with equal facility ; this Cylinder is adjusted by a Patent
Single Screw Adjustment which cannot get out of order. The Gearing is
simple, quiet and certain ; is completely covered, and allows free motion to
the knives. Has the best materials and workmanship, and highest finish.
Will give satisfaction for years, and can be easily repaired.

PRICES:-

Packing for Export
extra.

8in.

lOin.

12in.

14in.

16in.

18in.

20in.

22in.

24in.

55-

TO/-

90-

110/-

130/-

150-

170-

190-

210/-

6/-

6/-

7/-

7/-

8/-

8/-

8/-

10/-

10/-

The prices given above include delivery to the English Shipping Port.
Packing charges I/- less if without Grass Box.

RANSOMES' "ANGLO-PARIS" MOWER.

TJie best Light Machine.

Suitable for Small Gardens and for Ladies' and Amateurs' use. Has
perfect adjustment, and is unequalled by any similar machine in the market.

Complete Illustrated Catalogues Free

ON APPLICATION TO—

RANSOMES, SIMS & JEFFERIES, LIMITED,

IPSWICH, ENGLAND.

W. RICHARDSON & CO.,

MANUFACTURERS OF

Horticultural
Buildings,

Gonservatories,
Greenhouses,
Vineries,

PEACH HOUSES, STOVE A.ND D^CtylD HOUSES, &c.,

Fitted with the best up-to-date improvements and in keeping with
adjacent buildings.

Awarded the only BOLD MEDAL for Horticultural Buildings

At the International Horticultural Exhibition, London.

AND MANY OTHER PRIZE MEDALS.

PARISIAN GREENHOUSE LATH BLINDS,

AWARDED OVER 50 MEDALS.

Any house made portable for exportation. All the parts numbered, so that

unskilled labourer can fix. Glass cut to exact sizes, and everything supplied to

make the house complete. Carriage paid to any British Port.

IMPROVED SPAN GARDEN FRAMES

(with Adjustable Ridge Ventilation},

Contractors for Steam and Hot Water Heating
Apparatus, &c.

Efficiency Guaranteed, at the lowest possible Prices for good work.

New Catalogue —"% most Artistic & Complete Issued, Free.

W. RICHARDSON & CO., DARLINGTON.

K

SEEDS AND BULBS

FOR ALL CLIMATES
AND SEASONS.

Fo* FLOWER ^ KITCHEN GARDEN

DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF

BEST VEGETABLE SEEDS

Ready /sr January', t FOP Sowing the Year Round.

BAKU'S COLLECTIONS OF BEST VEGETABLE SEEDS,
12 6, 21 -, 42 -, 63 -, and upwards.

DESCEIPTITE CATALOGUE OF

BEST FLOWER SEEDS
(Ready 1st January.} For Out of Doors and Under Glass.

BARK'S COLLECTIONS OF FLOWER SEEDS FOB
ABROAD, 5 6, 76, 1O 6, 21 -, 42 -, and 63 -.

DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF
BEST FLOWERING BULBS
(Ready 1st September.) FOP Flower Garden and Early Forcing.

BABE'S COLLECTIONS of BULBS, 12 6, 21 -, 42 -, & 63 -.

DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF

NEW ENGLISH DAFFODILS

FOP Flower Garden, Indoors, and
Naturalization.

B ABB'S COLLECTIONS OF ENGLISH DAFFODILS,
76, 10 6, 15 - 21 -, 42 -, 63 -, and 84;-.

BRRR'S

(Ready in A ugust. )

ALL CATALOGUES FREE ON APPLICATION.

BARR AND SON,

12 and 13, KING STREET,

COVENT GARDEN, LONDON.

NURSERIES AT LONG OITTON, SURREY.

Ca ble A d dress : -WARE, TO TTE\HA M, L O\DOff. ' '

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

HARDY
PERENNIALS

In immense quanti-
ties.
Easy to grow, and
adapted for
every conceiTable
outdoor position.

CATALOGUE ISSUED
IN FEBRUARY.

TUBEROUS BEGONIAS.

All the various sections
represented by the most
worthy varieties.

For the Open, and for
Greenhouse cultivation.

Undoubtedly the very finest
strain procurable.
THE HIGHEST AWARDS
gained at all the principal
Exhibitions, inrfmifi^
Three Gold Medals, and
numerous Silver Medals
and First Prizes,

CATALOGUE READY IN
FEBRUARY.

CATALOGUE READY IN JAN.

w

ARE

DAHLIAS.

CACTUS DAHLIAS of
the finest kinds erer
raised. Single, Pom-
pone, and Show ra-
rieties in all the
best sorts.

CATALOGUE
devoted to tke*e and
otMer plant* f or s*m-
mar Bedding, viz.,
JtoyveritetT
SaMa*,*c.,

SENT OUT IN APRIL.

:*s

FLORISTS' FLOWERS.

VEGETABLE AND

Comprising CAUSA-
TIONS and PICOTEES by
Hundreds of Thousands, in
the best sorts only. Also
Collections of PHLOXES,
PYRETHRUMS.POTIN-
TILLAS, DELPHINI-
UMS, PENTSTEMONS,
PANSIES. VIOLETS, &c.

FLOWER SEEDS.

Strains of reliable and
proTed worth, tested and
true. Complete Collections
of SELECT VEGETABLE
SEEDS and CHOICE FLOWER
SEEDS for Small, Medium,
and Large Gardens.

CATALOGUE PUBLISHED
ANNUALLY IN JANUARY.

CATALOGUE IN FEBRUARY.

SPECIALITIES.

NARCISSUS AND
DAFFODILS.

Healthy, sound Bulbs of
these charming Spring
flowers, in prodigious num-
bers & bewildering variety.

IRISES.

A most unique Col*
lection,probably the
largest in existence;
every known species
and Tariety worth
cultivation being
grown.

HYACINTHS,
TULIPS.
CROCUSES,

OFFFRED IN AUTUMN
CATALOGUE OF

= ~ =S

GLADIOLUS; PJEOKTES
(Tree and Herbaceous);
HARDY FERHS
PRIMULAS; ROSES;
CLIMBERS and
CREEPIHG PLAHTS;
AQUATIC and BOG
PLAXTS; ROCKERY and
BORDER PLAHTS.
Decorative Shrubs, fcc«

LILIES.

The finest and most com-
plete Collection in the
Country.

Selections of Plants recommended for any kind of Soil or Situation
upon application.

Copies of any and aU of above Catalogue* may be had JV»* on application.

THOMAS S. WARE,

HALE FARM NURSERIES
T 0 T T JE3 INT H --V ZVC . X* O HT D O HT.

*

-it LONDON f£

TRADE MARK.

They are used by the
Leading Growers, R.B.S.,
R.H.S., Royal Parks, Kew
Gardens, London County
Council, throughout the
United Kingdom, and in
every quarter of the Globe.

For all pot Plants Clay's
"Fertilizer" should be
used, as the Plants require
manure to bring- them to
perfection in the Egyptian
climate.

"I know of no chemic
manure to give better

suits.

'WAI,

UNSURPASSED

FOR

m

ALL HORTICULTURAL PURPOSES.

Crushed Bones, Peruvian Guano, Sul-
phate of Ammonia, Nitrate of Soda,
and other Manures, Tobacco Cloth
and Paper.

Best qualities only.

Prices on appli-
cation.

Nursery;

and Is. Packets, and
SEALED BAGS : 71 bs. 2s. Gd. ;
14lbs. 4s. 6d.; 28lbs. 7s. Gd. ;
561 bs. 12s. 6d.; 1121 bs. 20s. Or
direct from the Works, Carriage
paid in the United Kingdom for Cash
with Order (except 6d. Packets).

thing grown
whether of
, or Vege-
will not benefit

HIRLEY HlBBERD.
F.R.H.S."

" I am really surprised at
its effects, which are such
as I have never seen follow
the use of anything else in
the shape of manure.

"THOMAS BAINES,
"F.R.H.S."

CLAY & SON,

Manure Manufacturers, . . .

. . Bone Crushers, &c.,

TEMPLE MILL LANE,

STRATFORD, LONDON, E.

For Palms, Crotons.
Aroids, Bulbs, Ferns, and
all choice Plants, a small
teaspoonful sprinkled

over the soil and watered
in will be found very
beneficial.

TRADE MARK.

Catalogue of Practical Handbooks
Published by L. Upcott Gill, ijo>
Strand, London, IV. C.

ANGLER, BOOK OP THE ALL-ROUND. A Comprehensive
Treatise on Angling in both Fresh and Salt Water. In Four Divisions,
as named below. By JOHN BICKERDYKE. With over 220 Engravings
In cloth, price 5s. 6d., by post 6s. (A few copies of a LARGE PAPER
EDITION, bound in Roxburghe, price 25s.)

Angling- for Coarse Fish. Bottom Fishing, according to the
Methods in use on the Thames, Trent, Norfolk Broads, and elsewhere.
Illustrated. In paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d.

Angling for Pike. The most Approved Methods of Fishing
for Pike or Jack. Profusely Illustrated. In paper, price Is., by post
Is. 2d. ; cloth, 2s. (uncut), by post 2s. 3(2.

Angling for Game Fish. The Various Methods of Fishing for
Salmon; Moorland, Chalk-stream, and Thames Trout; Grayling and
Char. Well Illustrated. In paper, price Is. 6d., by post Is. $d.

Angling in Salt Water. Sea Fishing with Eod and Line, from
the Shore, Piers, Jetties, Rocks, and from Boats ; together with Some
Account of Hand-Lining. Over 50 Engravings. In paper, price Is., by
post Is. 2d. ; cloth, 2s. (uncut), by post 2s. 3d.

AQUARIA, BOOK OF. A Practical Guide to the Construction,
Arrangement, and Management of Fresh-water and Marine Aquaria;
containing Full Information as to the Plants, Weeds, Fish, Molluscs,
Insects, &c., How and Where to Obtain Them, and How to Keep Them
in Health. Illustrated. By REV. GREGORY C. BATEMAN, A.K.C., and
REGINALD A. R. BENNETT, B.A. In cloth gilt, price 5s. Qd., by post
5s. IQd.

AQUARIA, FRESHWATER : Their Construction, Arrangement,
Stocking, and Management. Fully Illustrated. By REV. G. C. BATE-
MAN, A.K.C. In cloth gilt, price 3s. Qd., by post 3s. IQd.

AQUARIA, MARINE : Their Construction, Arrangement, and Manage-
ment. Fully Illustrated. By R. A. R. BENNETT, B.A. In cloth gilt,
price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9d.

AUSTRALIA, SHALL I TRY? A Guide to the Australian
Colonies for the Emigrant Settler and Business Man. With two
Illustrations. By GEORGE LACON JAMES. In cloth gilt, price 3s. 6d.,
by post 3s. Wd.

AUTOGRAPH COLLECTING : A Practical Manual for Amateurs
and Historical Students, containing ample information on the Selec-
tion and Arrangement of Autographs, the Detection of Forged
Specimens, &c., &c., to which are added numerous Facsimiles for
Study and Reference, and an extensive Valuation Table of Auto-
graphs worth Collecting. By HENRY T. SCOTT, M.D., L.R.C.P., &c.,
Rector of Swettenham, Cheshire. In leatherette gilt, price 7s. 6d., by
post 7s. Wd.

BEES AND BEE-KEEPING: Scientific and Practical. By F. R.
CHESHIRE, F.L.S., F.R.M.S., Lecturer on Apiculture at South Kensington,
In two vols., cloth gilt, price 16s., by post 16s. 4d.

166 C 7/95

Published by L. UPCOTT GILL,

Vol. X., Scientific. A complete Treatise on the Anatomy and
Physiology of the Hive Bee. In cloth gilt, price 7s. Qd., by post 7s. lOdL

Vol. IX., Practical Management of Bees. An Exhaustive
Treatise on Advanced Bee Culture. In cloth gilt, price 8s. Qd., by post
Ss. lOd.

BEE-KEEPING, BOOK OF. A very practical and Complete Manual
on the Proper Management of Bees, especially written for Beginners
and Amateurs who have but a few Hives. Fully Illustrated. By
W. B. WEBSTER, First-class Expert, B.B.K.A. In paper, price Is.,
by post Is. 2d. ; cloth, Is. 6d., by post Is. 8d.

BEGONIA CULTURE, for Amateurs and Professionals. Containing
Full Directions for the Successful Cultivation of the Begonia, under
Glass and in the Open Air. Illustrated. By B. C. EAVENSCROFT. In
paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d.

BENT IRON WORE : A Practical Manual of Instruction for Amateurs
in the Art and Craft of Making and Ornamenting Light Articles in
imitation of the beautiful Mediaeval and Italian Wrought Iron Work.
By F. J. ERSKINE. Illustrated. In paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d.

BOAT BUILDING AND SAILING, PRACTICAL. Containing
Full Instructions for Designing and Building Punts, Skiffs, Canoes,
Sailing Boats, &c. Particulars of the most suitable Sailing Boats and
Yachts for Amateurs, and Instructions for their Proper Handling. Fully
Illustrated with Designs and Working Diagrams. By ADRIAN NEISON,
C.E., DIXON KEMP, A.I.N.A., and G. CHRISTOPHER DAVIES. In one vol.,
cloth gilt, price 7s. 6d., by post 7s. lOdL

BOAT BUILDING POR AMATEURS, PRACTICAL. Contain,
ing Full Instructions for Designing and Building Punts, Skiffs, Canoes,
Sailing Boats, &c. Fully Illustrated with Working Diagrams. By
ADRIAN NEISON, C.E. Second Edition, Eevised and Enlarged by DIXON
KEMP, Author of " Yacht Designing," " A Manual of Yacht and Boat
Sailing," &c. In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9df.

BOAT SAILING FOR AMATEURS. Containing Particulars of
the most Suitable Sailing Boats and Yachts for Amateurs, and Instruc-
tions for their Proper Handling, &c. Illustrated with numerous
Diagrams. By G. CHRISTOPHER DAVIES. Second Edition, Eevised and
Enlarged, and with several New Plans of Yachts. In cloth gilt, price 5s.,
by post 5s. 4id.

BOOKBINDING POR AMATEURS : Being Descriptions of the
various Tools and Appliances Eequired, and Minute Instructions for
their Effective Use. By W. J. E. CRANE. Illustrated with 156 Engrav-
ings. In cloth gilt, price 2s. Qd., by post 2s. Qd.

BUNKUM ENTERTAINMENTS: A Collection of Original Laugh-
able Skits on Conjuring, Physiognomy, Juggling, Performing Fleas,
Waxworks, Panorama, Phrenology, Phonograph, Second Sight,
Lightning Calculators, Ventriloquism, Spiritualism, &c., to which are
added Humorous Sketches, Whimsical Eecitals, and Drawing-room
Comedies. In cloth, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9d.

BUTTERFLIES, THE BOOK OF BRITISH: A Practical
Manual for Collectors and Naturalists. Splendidly Illustrated through-
out with very accurate Engravings of the Caterpillars, Chrysalids, and
Butterflies, both upper and under sides, from drawings by the Author
or direct from Nature. By W. J. LUCAS, B.A. Price 3s. 6cL, by post
3s. 9<J.

170, Strand, London, W.C.

BUTTERFLY AND MOTH COLLECTING: Where to Search,
and What to Do. By G. E. SIMMS. Illustrated. In paper, price Is.,
by post Is. 2d.

CACTUS CULTURE FOR AMATEURS: Being Descriptions of
the various Cactuses grown in this country ; with Full and Practical
Instructions for their Successful Cultivation. By W. WATSON, Assistant
Curator of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Profusely Illustrated.
In cloth gilt, price 5s., by post 5s. 3d.

CAGE BIRDS, DISEASES OF : Their Causes, Symptoms, and Treat-
ment. A Handbook for everyone who keeps a Bird. By DR. W. T.
GREENE, F.Z.S. In paper, price Is,, by post Is. 2d.

CANARY BOOK. The Breeding, Rearing, and Management of
all Varieties of Canaries and Canary Mules, and all other matters
connected with this Fancy. By EGBERT L. WALLACE. Third
Edition. In cloth gilt, price 5s., by post 5s. 4<d. ; with COLOURED
PLATES, 6s. 6d., by post 6s. lOd. ; and as follows:

General Management of Canaries. Cages and Cage-making
Breeding, Managing, Mule Breeding, Diseases and their Treatment,
Moulting, Pests, &c. Illustrated. In cloth, price 2s. Qd., by post
2s. 9<Z.

Exhibition Canaries. Full Particulars of all the different
Varieties, their Points of Excellence, Preparing Birds for Exhibi-
tion, Formation and Management of Canary Societies and Exhibitions.
Illustrated. In cloth, price 2s. Qd., by post 2s. 9d.

CANOE BUILDING FOR AMATEURS: A Practical Manual,
with Plans, Working Diagrams, and full Instructions. By COTTERILL
SCHOLEFIELD. Price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9d. [_In the Press.

CARD TRICKS, BOOK OF, for Drawing-room and Stage Entertain-
ments by Amateurs ; with an exposure of Tricks as practised by Card
Sharpers and Swindlers. Numerous Illustrations. By PROF. E. KTJNARD.
In illustrated wrapper, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9d.

CATS, DOMESTIC OR FANCY: A Practical Treatise on their
Antiquity, Domestication, Varieties, Breeding, Management, Diseases
and Eemedies, Exhibition and Judging. By JOHN JENNINGS. Illus-
trated. In cloth, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9d.

CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE, for Amateurs and Professionals.
Containing Full Directions for the Successful Cultivation of the
Chrysanthemum for Exhibition and the Market. Illustrated. By
B. C. B.AVENSCROFT. In paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d.

COINS, A GUIDE TO ENGLISH PATTERN, in Gold, Silver,
Copper, and Pewter, from Edward I. to Victoria, with their Value. By
the REV. G. F. CROWTHER, M.A. Illustrated. In silver cloth, with gilt
facsimiles of Coins, price 5s., by post 5s. 3d.

COINS OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, A GUIDE
TO THE, in Gold, Silver and Copper, from the Earliest Period to the
Present Time, with their Value. By the late Colonel W. STEWART
THORBURN. With 32 Plates in Gold, Silver, Copper, &c. In cloth
gilt, price 7s. 6d., by post 7s. IQd.

COLLIE, THE. Its History, Points, and Breeding. By HUGH DALZIEL.
Illustrated with Coloured Frontispiece and Plates. In paper, price Is.,
by post Is. 2d. ; cloth, 2s., by post 2s. 3d.

Published by L. UPCOTT GILL.

COLLIE STUD BOOK. Edited by HUGH DALZLEL. Price 3s. 6d. each

by post 3s. 9d. each.

VoL I., containing Pedigrees of 1308 of the best-known Dogs, traced

to their most remote known ancestors : Show Record to Feb., 1890, &c.
VbL II. Pedigrees of 795 Dogs, Show Eecord, &c.
Vol. HI. Pedigrees of 786 Dogs, Show Eecord, &e.
COLUMBARIUM, MOORE'S. Eeprinted Verbatim from the original

Edition of 1735, with a Brief Xotice of the Author. By W. B. TEGET-

MXIKB, F.Z.S., Member of the British Ornithologists' Union. Price 1*.,

by post Is. 2<L
CONJURING, BOOK OF MODERN. A Practical Guide to Drawing-

room and Stage Magic for Amateurs. By PEOFESSOB E. KTTNABD.

Illustrated. In illustrated ic rapper, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9d.
COOKERY FOR AMATEURS ; or, French Dishes for English Homes

of all Classes. Includes Simple Cookery, Middle-class Cookery, Superior

Cookery, Cookery for Invalids, and Breakfast and Luncheon Cookery.

By MAr>A*ne VALERIE. Second Edition. In paper, price 1*., by post Is. 2d.

CUCUMBER CULTURE FOR AMATEURS. Including also
Melons. Vegetable Marrows, and Gourds. Illustrated. By W. J. MAT.
In paper, price 1*.. by post Is. 2d.

CYCLIST'S ROUTE MAP of England and Wales. The Third Edition ;
thoroughly Bevised. Shows clearly all the Main, and most of the Cross,
Eoads, and the Distances between the Chief Towns, as well as the
Mileage from London. In addition to this, Eoutes of Thirty of the most
Interesting Tours are printed in red. The map is mounted on linen, and is
the fullest, handiest, and best tourist's map in the market. In cloth,
price Is., by post Is. 2d.

DOGS, BREAKING AND TRAINING: Being Concise Directions
for the proper education of Dogs, both for the Field and for Companions.
Second Edition. By " PATHFESDEB." With Chapters by HUGH
DALZLEL. Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 6s. 6d., by post 6s. lOd.

DOGS, BRITISH, ANCIENT AND MODERN : Their Varieties,
History, and Characteristics. By HUGH DALZIEL, assisted by Eminent
Fanciers. SECOND EDITION, Eevised and Enlarged. Illustrated with
First-class COLOURED PLATES and full-page Engravings of Dogs of
the Day. This is the fullest work on the various breeds of dogs kept in
England. In three volumes, demy Svo, cloth gilt, price 10s. 6d. each, by
port Us. Id. each.

Dog's Used in Field Sports. Containing Particulars of the
following among other Breeds : Greyhound, Irish Wolfhound, Blood-
hound, Foxhound, Harrier, Basset, Dachshund, Pointer, Setters,
Spaniels, and Retrievers. SEVEN COLOURED PLATES and 21 full-page
Engravings.

Dogs Useful to Man in other Work than Field Sports ;
House and Toy Bog's. Containing Particulars of the following,
among other Breeds : Collie, Bulldog, Mastiff, St. Bernards. Newfoundland,
Great Dane, Fox and all other Terriers, King Charles and Blenheim
Spaniels, Pug, Pomeranian, Poodle, Italian Greyhound, Toy Dogs, <fec.,
Ac. COLOTJBZD PLATES and full-page Engravings.

Practical Kennel Management: A Complete Treatise on all
Matters relating to the Proper Management of Dogs, whether kept for
the Show Bench, for the Field, or for Companions. Illustrated with
Coloured and numerous other Plates. [In the Press.

170, Strand, London, W.C.

DOGS, DISEASES OP : Their Causes, Symptoms, and Treatment ;
Modes of Administering Medicines ; Treatment in cases of Poisoning, &c.
For the nse of Amateurs. By HUGH DALZIEL. Third Edition, In
paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d. ; in cloth gilt, 2s., by post 2s. 3d.

ENTERTAINMENTS, AMATEUR, FOR CHARITABLE AND
OTHER. OBJECTS : How to Organize and Work them with Profit
and Success. By EGBERT GANTKONY. In coloured cover, price Is., by
post Is. 2d.

FANCY WORE SERIES, ARTISTIC. A Series of Illustrated
Manuals on Artistic and Popular Fancy Work of various kinds. Each
number is complete in itself, and issued at the uniform price of 6d., by
post "d. Now ready — (1) MACRAME LACE (Second Edition) ; (2) PATCH-
WORK; (3) TATTING; (4) CREWEL WORK; (5) APPLIQUE; (6) FANCY
NETTING.

FERNS, THE BOOK OF CHOICE : for the Garden, Conservatory,
and Stove. Describing the best and most striking Ferns and Sela-
ginellas, and giving explicit directions for their Cultivation, the for-
mation of Rockeries, the arrangement of Ferneries, &c. By GEORGE
SCHNEIDER. With numerous Coloured Plates and other Illustrations.
In 3 vols., large post 4fo. Cloth gilt, price £3 3s., by post £3 6s.

FERNS, CHOICE BRITISH. Descriptive of the most beautiful
Variations from the common forms, and their Culture. By C. T. DRUERY,
F.L.S. Very accurate PLATES, and other Illustrations. In cloth gilt,
price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9d.

FERRETS AND FERRETING. Containing Instructions for the
Breeding, Management, and Working of Ferrets. Second Edition, Re-
written and greatly Enlarged. Illustrated. In paper, price Qd., by
post 7d.

FERTILITY OF EGGS CERTIFICATE. These are Forms of
Guarantee given by the Sellers to the Buyers of Eggs for Hatching,
undertaking to refund value of any unfertile eggs, or to replace them
•with good ones. Very valuable to sellers of eggs, as they induce
purchases. In books, with counterfoils, price 6d., by post Id.

FIREWORK-MAKING FOR AMATEURS. A complete, accurate,
and easily-understood work on Making Simple and High-class Fireworks.
By Dr. W. H. BROWNE, M.A. In paper, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9<J.

FOREIGN BIRDS, FAVOURITE, for Cages and Aviaries. How to
Keep them in Health. Fully Illustrated. By W. T. GREENE, M.A.,
M.D., F.Z.S., &c. In cloth, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9d.

FOX TERRIER, THE. Its History, Points, Breeding, Rearing, Pre-
paring, for Exhibition, and Coursing. By HUGH DALZIEL. Illustrated
with Coloured Frontispiece and Plates. In paper, price Is., by post
Is. 2d. ; cloth, 2s., by post 2s. 3d.

FOX TERRIER STUD BOOK. Edited by HUQH DALZIEL. Price

3s. 6d. each., by post 3s. 9rf. each.

Vol. I., containing Pedigrees of over 1400 of the best-known Dogs,
traced to their most remote known ancestors.

Vol. II. Pedigrees of 1544 Dogs, Show Record, &c.

Vol. III. Pedigrees of 1214 Dogs, Show Record, &o.

Vol. IV. Pedigrees of 1168 Dogs, Show Record, &c.

Vol. V. Pedigrees of 1G62 Dogs, Show Record, &o.

6 Published by L. UPCOTT GILL,

FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. A Practical Manual of
Instructions in the Art of Fret-cutting and Marquetry Work. Profusely
Illustrated. By D. DENNING. In cloth, price 2s. Qd., by post 2s. 10c?.

FRIESLAND MERES, A CRUISE ON THE. By ERNEST E.
SUFFLING. Illustrated. In paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d.

GAME AND GAME SHOOTING, NOTES ON. Grouse, Par-
tridges, Pheasants, Hares, Rabbits, Quails, Woodcocks, Snipe, and
Eooks. By J. J. MANLEY. Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 7s. 6d.,
by post 7s. lOd.

GAME PRESERVING, PRACTICAL. Containing the fullest
Directions for Bearing and Preserving both Winged and Ground Game,
and Destroying Vermin ; with other Information of Value to the Game
Preserver. Illustrated. By WILLIAM CARNEGIE. In cloth gilt, demy Svo,
price 21s., by post 21s. 9d.

GARDENING, DICTIONARY OF. A Practical Encyclopedia of
Horticulture, for Amateurs and Professionals. Illustrated with 2440
Engravings. Edited by G. NICHOLSON, Curator of the Eoyal Botanic
Gardens, Kew ; assisted by Prof. Trail, M.D., Eev. P. W. Myles,
B.A., F.L.S., W. Watson, J. Garrett, and other Specialists. In 4 vols.,
large post 4£o. In cloth gilt, price £3, by post £3 3s.

GOAT, BOOK OF THE. Containing Full Particulars of the various
Breeds of Goats, and their Profitable Management. With many Plates.
By H. STEPHEN HOLMES PEGLER. Third Edition, with Engravings and
Coloured Frontispiece. In cloth gilt, price 4s. 6dL, by post 4s. lOd.

GOAT-KEEPING FOR AMATEURS : Being the Practical Manage-
ment of Goats for Milking Purposes. Abridged from " The Book of the
Goat." Illustrated. In paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d.

GRAPE GROWING FOR AMATEURS. A Thoroughly Practical
Book on Successful Vine Culture. By E. MOLTNEUX. Illustrated. In
paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d.

GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT FOR AMATEURS. The

Best Greenhouses and Frames, and How to Build and Heat them, Illus-
trated Descriptions of the most suitable Plants, with general and
Special Cultural Directions, and all necessary information for the
Guidance of the Amateur. Second Edition, Eevised and Enlarged.
Magnificently Illustrated. By W. J. MAT. In cloth gilt, price 5s. ,
by post 5s. 4d.

GREYHOUND, THE : Its History, Points, Breeding, Eearing, Training,
and Eunning. By HUGH DALZIEL. With Coloured Frontispiece. In
cloth gilt, demy Svo, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9d.

GUINEA PIG, THE, for Food, Fur, and Fancy. Illustrated with
Coloured Frontispiece and Engravings. An exhaustive book on the
Varieties of the Guinea Pig, and its Management. By C. CUMBERLAND,
F.Z.S. In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9d.

HAND CAMERA MANUAL, THE. A Practical Handbook on all
Matters connected with the Use of the Hand Camera in Photography.
Illustrated. By W. D. WELFORD. Second Edition. Price Is., by post Is. 2d.

HANDWRITING, CHARACTER INDICATED BY. With Illus-
trations in Support of the Theories advanced taken from Autograph
Letters of Statesmen, Lawyers, Soldiers, Ecclesiastics, Authors, Poets,
Musicians, Actors, and other persons. Second Edition. By E. BAUGHAN.
In cloth gilt, price 2s. Qd., by post 2s. 9d.

170, Strand, London, W.C.

HARDY PERENNIALS and Old-fashioned Garden Flowers. Descrip-
tions, alphabetically arranged, of the most desirable Plants for Borders,
Eockeries, and Shrubberies, including Foliage as well as Flowering
Plants. Profusely Illustrated. By J. WOOP. In cloth, price 5s., by
post 5s. 4>d.

HAWK MOTHS, BOOK OP BRITISH. A Popular and Practical
Manual for all Lepidopterists. Copiously illustrated in both colours and
black and white from drawings from Nature by the Author. By W. J.
LUCAS, B.A. [In the Press.

HOME MEDICINE AND SURGERY: A Dictionary of Diseases
and Accidents, and their proper Home Treatment, For Family Use. By
W. J. MACKENZIE, M.D. Illustrated. In cloth, price 2s. Qd., by post 2s. 9d.

HORSE-KEEPER, THE PRACTICAL. By GEORGE FLEMING, C.B.,
LL.D., F.E.C.V.S., late Principal Veterinary Surgeon to the British
Army, and Ex-President of the Eoyal College of Veterinary Surgeons.
In cloth, price 3s. 6d., by post 3s. 10<Z.

HORSE-KEEPING POR AMATEURS. A Practical Manual on
the Management of Horses, for the guidance of those who keep one or
two for their personal use. By Fox EUSSELL. In paper, price Is.,
by post Is. 2d. ; cloth, 2s., by post 2s. 3d.

HORSES, DISEASES OF ; Their Causes, Symptoms, and Treatment.
For the use of Amateurs. By HUGH DALZIEL. In paper, price Is.,
by post Is. 2d. ; cloth 2s., by post 2s. 3d.

INLAND WATERING PLACES. A Description of the Spas of
Great Britain and Ireland, their Mineral Waters, and their Medicinal
Value, and the attractions which they offer to Invalids and other Visitors.
Profusely illustrated. A Companion Volume to "Seaside Watering Places."
In cloth, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. lOd.

JOURNALISM, PRACTICAL : How to Enter Thereon and Succeed.
A book for all who think of " writing for the Press." By JOHN DAWSON.
In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9d.

LAYING HENS, HOW TO KEEP and to Eear Chickens in Large
or Small Numbers, in Absolute Confinement, with Perfect Success. By
MAJOR G. F. MORANT. In paper, price 6d., by post 7d.

LIBRARY MANUAL, THE. A Guide to the Formation of a Library,
and the Values of Eare and Standard Books. By J. H. SLATER.
Barrister-at-Law. Third Edition. Eevised and Greatly Enlarged. In
cloth gilt, price 7s. 6d., by post 7s. 10d.

MICE, FANCY : Their Varieties, Management, and Breeding. Ee-issue,
with Criticisms and Notes by DR. CARTER BLAKE. Illustrated. In
paper, price 6d., by post 7cL

MILLINERY, HANDBOOK OF. A Practical Manual of Instruction
for Ladies. Illustrated. By MME. EOSEE, Court Milliner, Principal of
the School of Millinery. In paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d.

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FAINTING, DECORATIVE. A practical Handbook on Painting and
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PATIENCE, GAMES OP, for one or more Players. How to Play
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