S. JEWETT,

DA© K S
-STATIONERY,

°M PMus*?d S'1Cetl

o. 27 /Print St.

GARDENING FOE PROFIT;

A GUIDE TO THE SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION

OP THE

MARKET AND FAMILY GARDEN

BY

PETER HENDERSON.

SOUTH BERGEN, N. J.

NEW-YORK .
ORANGE JUDD &o COMPANY,

No. 245 BROADWAY.

Entered according to Act of Congress, In the year 1867, by
ORANGE JUDD & CO.,

At the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
Southern District of New- York.

LOVKJOT A SON,

EueCTROTYPEKS AND STERKOTTPKHS.

15 Vandewatcr street N. Y

CONTENTS AND INDEX.

CHAPTER 1. — The Men Fitted for the Business of Gardening 9

CH AFTER 2.— The Amount of Capital Required and Working Force per Acre . 12

CHAPTER 3.— Profits of Market Gardening 16

CHAPTER 4.— Location, Situation, and Laying Out 19

CHAPTER 5.— Soils, Drainage, and Preparation 22

CHAPTER 6. — Manures.. 29

CHAPTER 7.— Implements 34

Cylinder Plow 34

Lifting;Sub-soil Plow 35

Garden Harrow 35

Digging Fork 36

Spade 36

Skeleton Plow. . . 37

Cultivator 37

Pronged Hoe 38

Rake 38

Scuffle Hoe 39

Clod-crusher 39

Garden Roller 40

Marker 40

Market Wagon 41

Seed Drill 41

Dibber 42

CHAPTER 8.— Uses and Management of Cold Frames. 44

CHAPTER 9.— Formation and Management of Hot-beds 49

Watering 52

Covering Against Frost 54

CHAPTER 10.— Forcing Pits or Green-houses 57

CHAPTER 11.— Seeds and Seed Raising 66

CHAPTER 12.— How, When, and Where to Sow Seeds 71

Hardy and Tender Seeds 73

Quantity of Seeds per Acre 78

Quantity of Seeds for a Given Number of Plants 78

Number of Plants to the Acre 79

CHAPTER 13.— Transplanting 80

CHAPTER 14.— Packing Vegetables for Shipping 82

CHAPTER 15.— Preservation of Vegetables in Winter 84

CHAPTER 16.— Insects 87

CHAPTER 17.— Vegetables, their Varieties and Cultivation 91

Asparagus 92

Artichoke 98

Artichoke, Jerusalem 99

CONTENTS AND INDEX.

CHAPTER 17.— Balm ..................................................... 101

Basil ...................................................... 100

Bean, Bush, Kidney, or Snap ................................ 101

Bean, Running or Pole ....................................... 104

Beet ......................................................... 106

Borecole .................................................... 110

Broccoli..... ................................................. 112

Brussels Sprouts ............................................ 114

Cabbage, Early ............................................... 113

Late ................................................ 123

Turnip-rooted ...................................... 157

Capsicum .................................................... 191

Cauliflower .................................................. 115

Cardoon ...................................................... 126

Carrot ........................................... ........... 126

Celery ........................................................ 129

Celeriac ...................................................... 139

Celery, Turnip-rooted ........................................ 189

Chervil, Turnip-rooted ...................................... 129

Chives ....................................................... 140

Corn Salad ................................................... 140

Cress ........................................................ 140

Cress, Water ................................................. 141

Colewort .................................................. 142

Collards ..................................................... 142

Corn ........................................................ 142

Cucumber ................................................... 144

Egg Plant .................................................... 148

Endive ........ .............................................. 150

Fettncns ..................................................... 140

Garlic ........................................................ 152

German Greens ............................................. 110

Gherkin ..................................................... 147

Gumbo ....................................................... 176

Horseradish .................................................. 152

Indian Cress .................................................. 176

Jerusalem Artichoke ......................................... 99

Kale ......................................................... 110

Kohlrabi ..................................................... 157

Leek ........................................................ 158

Lettuce ...................................................... 159

Marjoram ................................................ 163-221

Martynia .................................................... 169

Melon, Musk ................................................. 104

" Water ................................................ 166

Mint ......................................................... 168

Mask Melon ................................................. 104

Mushroom ................................................... 170

Mustard ...................................................... 170

Nasturtium .................................. ................ 176

New Zealand Spinach ..................................... 208

CONTENTS AND INDEX.

PAGK.

CHAPTER 17.— Okra 176

Onion 177

Oyster Plant 202

Parsley 184

Parsnip 186

Pea ;... 188

Pepper 191

Pepper-Grass 140

Potato 19S

Pumpkin 197

Eadish. 197

Rhubarb 200

.220
-221
203

" Black. 203

Savoy 125

Scorzonera 203

SeaKale 204

Shallots 206

Sorrel 206

Spinach 207

Sprouts 110

Squash 208

Summer Savory 221

Sweet Corn 142

Sweet Herbs.. 221

Sweet Marjoram, 221

Sweet Potato 211

Swiss Chard 109

Thyme 221

Tomato 213

Turnip 218

Turnip-rooted Cabbage 157

" " Celery 139

Chervil 129

Water Cress 141

Water Melon 166

Propagation of Plants by Cuttings 224

Calendar of Operations for January 230

February 232

March 233

April 234

May 235

June 236

July 237

August 238

September 238

October 239

November 240

December 243

INTRODUCTION

I hope it is no egotism to state that in both the Floral
and Vegetable departments of Horticulture, in which I
have been engaged for the past eighteen years, I have been
eminently successful. Now, we know, that success only
is the test of good generalship, and it follows that, having
been successful, I have thus earned my title to merit.
From this standpoint, I claim the right to attempt the in-
struction of the student of horticulture in the tactics of
that field.

We have very few works, either agricultural or horti-
cultural, by American authors, whose writers are practical
men, and fewer still of these who are men that have "risen
from the ranks." The majority of such authors being ex-
editors, lawyers, merchants, etc., men of means and edu-
cation, who, engaging in the business as a pastime, in a
year or two generously conclude to give the public the
benefit of their experience — an experience, perhaps, that
has been confined to a city lot, when the teachings were
of the garden, or of a few acres in the suburbs, when the
teachings were of the farm.

INTRODUCTION. VII

The practical farmer or gardener readily detects the ring
of this spurious metal, and excusably looks upon all such
instructors with contempt. To this cause, perhaps more
than any other, may be attributed the wide-spread preju-
dice against book-farming and book-gardening, by which
thousands shut themselves off from information, the pos-
possession of which might save years of useless toil and
privation.

I have some pride, under present circumstances, in say-
ing, that I have had a working experience in all depart-
ments of gardening, from my earliest boyhood, and even
to-day am far more at home in its manual operations than
its literature, and have only been induced to write the fol-
lowing pages at the repeated solicitations of friends and
correspondents, to whose inquiries relative to commercial
gardening, my time will no longer allow me to reply in-
dividually. The work has been hurriedly written, at
intervals snatched from the time which legitimately be-
longed to my business, and therefore its text is likely
to be very imperfect. I have endeavored, however, to be
as concise and clear as possible, avoiding all abstruse or
theoretical questions, which too often serve only to confuse
and dishearten the man who seeks only for the instruction
that shall enable him to practice.

Although the directions given are mainly for the market
garden, or for operations on a large scale, yet the amateur
or private gardener will find no difficulty in modifying
them to suit the smallest requirements. The commercial
gardener, from the keen competition, ever going on in
the vicinity of large cities, is, in his operations, taxed to
bis utmost ingenuity to get at the most expeditious and

VIII GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

economical methods to produce the finest crops — methods,
that we believe to be superior to those in general use in
private gardens, and which may, with profit, be followed.

Our estimates of labor, I trust, will not be overlooked ;
for, I know, it is no uncommon thing for gentlemen to
expect their gardeners to do impossibilities in this way.
The private garden cannot be properly cropped and cared
for with less labor than can our market gardens, and these,
«ve know, require nearly the labor of one man to an acre,
and that too, with every labor-saving arrangement in
practice. When the care of green-houses, or graperies, is
in addition to this, extra labor must be given accordingly,
or something must suffer.

The greatest difficulty that has presented itself to me
in giving the directions for operations, has been the dates ;
in a country having such an area and diversity of temper-
ature as ours, directions could not well be given for the
extremes, so as the best thing to be done under the cir-
cumstances, I have taken the latitude of New York as a
basis, and my readers must modify my instructions to suit
their locality. The number of varieties of each vegetable
described here, is very small in comparison with those that
are known, or the seeds of which are offered for sale. I
have given only such, as I have found most serviceable.
Those who wish for a more extended list are referred to
the excellent work by Fearing Burr, Jr., on Garden
Vegetables.

South Bergen, N. J.,

December 1st, 1860.

GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

CHAPTER I.

THE MEN FITTED FOR THE BUSINESS OF
GARDENING.

Although we shall here show the business of garden-
ing to be a profitable one, let no man deceive himself by
supposing that these profits are attainable without steady
personal application.

Having been long known as extensively engaged in the
business, I am applied to by scores every season, asking
how they can make their lands available for garden
purposes. The majority of these are city merchants, who
for investment, or in anticipation of a rural retreat in the
autumn of their days, have purchased a country place,
and in the mean time they wish to make it pay ; they have
read or heard that market gardening is profitable, and they
think it an easy matter to hire a gardener to work the place,
9

10 GABDENING FOB PROFIT.

while they attend their own mercantile duties as before
They are usually gentlemen of horticultural tendencies,
read all the magazines and books on the subject, and from
the knowledge thus obtained, plume themselves with the
ymceit that they are able to guide the machine.

Many hundreds from our large cities delude themselves
7n this way every season, in different departments of hor-
ticulture; perhaps more in the culture of fruits than of
vegetables. I have no doubt that thousands of acres aro
annually planted, that in three years afterwards are aban-
doned, and the golden dreams of these sanguine gentle-
men forever dissipated. Although the workers of the
soil will not, as a class, compare in intelligence with the
mercantile men of the cities, it is a mistake to suppose
that this want of education or intelligence is much of a
drawback, when it comes to cultivating strawberries or
cabbages. True, the untutored mind does not so readily
comprehend theoretical or scientific knowledge, but for
that very reason it becomes more thoroughly practical,
and I must say that, as far as my experience has gone,
(without being thought for a moment to derrogate against
the utility of a true scientific knowledge in all matters
pertaining to the soil), that any common laborer, with or-
dinary sagacity, and twelve months' practical working in
a garden, would have a far better chance of success, other
things being equal, than another without the practice,
even if he had all the writings, from Liebig's down, at his
fingers' ends. Not that a life long practice is absolutely
necessary to success, for I can see, from where I write, the
homes at least of half a dozen men, all now well to do in
the world, not one of whom had any knowledge of gar-

MEN FITTED FOB THE BUSINESS. 11

dening, either practical or theoretical, when they started
the business ; but they were all active working men, " ac-
tual settlers," and depended alone on their own heads and
hands for success, and not on the doubtful judgment and
industry of a hired gardener, who had no further interest
in the work than his monthly salary.

The business of market gardening, though pleasant,
healthful, and profitable, is a laborious one, from which
any one, not accustomed to manual labor, would quickly
shrink. The labor is not what may be termed heavy, but
the hours are long ; not less than an average of 12 hours
a day, winter and summer. No one should begin it after
passing the meridian of life ; neither is it fitted for men of
weak or feeble physical organization, for it is emphatically
a business in which one has to rough it ; in summer plant-
ing, when it is of the utmost importance to get the plants
in when raining, we repeatedly work for hours in drench-
ing rains, and woe be to the "boss," or foreman, who
would superintend the operation under the protection of
an umbrella ; he must take his chances with the rank and
file, or his prestige, as a commander, is gone.

CHAPTER II

THE AMOUNT OF CAPITAL REQUIRED, AND
WORKING FORCE PER ACRE.

The small amount of capital required to begin fanning
operations, creates great misconception of what is neces-
sary for commercial gardening; for, judging from the
small number of acres wanted for commencing a garden,
many suppose that a few hundred dollars is all sufficient
for a market gardener. For want of information on this
subject, hundreds have failed, after years of toil and priva-
tion. At present prices, (1866), no one would be safe to
start the business of vegetable market gardening, in the
manner it is carried on in the neighborhood of New York,
with a capital of less than $300 per acre, for anything less
than ten acres ; if on a larger scale, it might not require
quite so much. The first season rarely pays more than
current expenses, and the capital of $300 per acre is all
absorbed in horses, wagons, glass, manures, etc. If the
capital be insufficient to procure these propei'ly, the
chance of success is correspondingly diminished.

I can call to mind at least a dozen cases that have occur-
12

AMOUNT OF CAPITAL REQUIRED. 13

ru I in my immediate neighborhood within the last five
years, where steady industrious men have utterly failed,
and lost every dollar they possessed, merely by attempt-
ing the business with insufficient capital. A few years
ago, a man called upon me and stated that he was about
to become my neighbor, that he had leased a place of
twenty acres alongside of mine for ten years, for $600 per
year, for the purpose of growing vegetables, and asked
me what I thought of his bargain. I replied that the
place was cheap enough, only I was afraid he had got too
much land for that purpose, if he attempted the working
of it all. I further asked him what amount of capital he
had, and he told me that he had about $1000. I said that
I was sorry to discourage him, but that it was better for
him to know that the amount was entirely unadequate to
begin with, and that there was not one chance in fifty that
he would succeed, and that it would be better, even then,
to relinquish the attempt ; but he had paid $150 for a
quarter's rent in advance, and could not be persuaded from
making the attempt. The result was as I expected ; he be-
gan operations in March, his little capital was almost swal-
lowed up in the first two months, and the few crops he had
put in were so inferior, that they were hardly worth send-
ing to market. Without money to pay for help, his place
got enveloped in weeds, and by September of the same
year, he abandoned the undertaking.

Had the same amount of capital and the same energy
been expended on three or four acres, there is hardly a
doubt that success would have followed. Those who wish
to live by gardening, cannot be too often told the danger
of spreading over too large an area, more particularly in

14 GABPENINQ FOB PROFIT.

starting. With a small capital, two or three acres may
be profitably worked ; while if ten or twelve were at-
tempted with the same amount, it would most likely re-
sult in failure. Many would suppose, that if three acres
could be leased for $100 per year, that twenty acres would
be cheaper at $500 ; nothing can be more erroneous, un-
less the enterprise be backed up with the necessary capi-
tal— $300 per acre. For be it known, that the rental or
interest on the ground used for gardening operations is
usually only about 10 per cent, of the working expenses,
so that an apparently cheap rent, or cheap purchase, does
not very materially affect the result. It is very different
from farming operations, where often the rent or interest
on purchase money amounts to nearly half the expenses.

The number of men employed throughout the year on
a market garden of ten acres, within three miles of mar-
ket, planted in close crop, averages seven ; this number is
varied in proportion, somewhat, according to the quantity
of glass in use. I have generally employed more than
that ; fully a man to an acre, but that was in consequence
of having in use more than the ordinary proportion of
sashes. This may seem to many an unnecessary force for
such a small area ; but all our experience proves, that any
attempt to work with less, will be unprofitable. What
with the large quantity of manure indispensable, 75 tous
per acre ; the close planting of the crops, so that every
foot will tell ; the immense handling preparatory for mar-
ket, to be done on a double crop each season, one market-
ed in mid-summer, another in fall and winter, a large and
continued amount of labor is required. On lands within
a short distance of market — say two miles — two horses

AMOUNT OF CAPITAL REQUIRED. 15

are sufficient ; but when double that distance, three are
necessary. When three animals are required, it is most
profitable to use a team of mules to do the plowing and
heavy hauling of manure, etc., and do the marketing by a
strong active horse. Every operation in cultivating the
ground is done by horse labor, whenever practicable to do
BO ; but it must be remembered that the crops of a garden
are very different from those of a farm ; the land is in
most cases (particularly for the first crops) planted so
close, that nothing will do to work with but the hoe.

CHAPTER in.

PROFITS OF MARKET GARDENING.

This is rather a difficult if not a delicate matter to touch,
as the profits are so large, in some instances, as almost to
exceed belief, and so trifling, under other conditions, as
hardly to be worth naming. These latter conditions, how-
ever, are generally where men have started on unsuitable
soils, too far from market, or without money enough to
have ever got thoroughly under way. But as the object
of this work is to endeavor to show how the business can
be made a profitable one, I will endeavor to approximate
to our average profits per acre. As a rule, it may be
premised that for every additional acre over ten, the prof-
its per acre will to some extent diminish, from the fact
that a larger area cannot be so thoroughly worked as a
smaller one ; besides there will often be a loss in price by
having to crowd larger quantities of produce into market,
and to leave it in the hands of inexperienced salesmen •
the majority of our products are quickly perishable, ant
must be sold when ready.

The average profits for the past fifteen years on all well

cultivated market gardens in this vicinity, has certainly

not been less than $300 per acre. For the past five years,

(from 1861 to 1866), they have been perhaps one-third

16

PROFITS OF MARKET GARDENING. 17

more ; but these were years of " war prices," such as ire
will be well content never to see again. These profits are
for the products of the open gardens only, not of the
frames or forcing pits, which are alluded to elsewhere.
These amounts are for the neighborhood of New York,
which I think, from the vast competition in business, is
likely to be a low average for the majority of towns and
cities throughout the country. Certain it is, that from
our lands, even at a value of from $1000 to $5000 per acre,
we can and do profitably grow and supply the majority
of towns within fifty miles around New York with fresh
vegetables. In these cases, no doubt, the consumer pays
full double the price that the raiser receives, for they
generally pass through the hands of two classes of " mid-
dle-men," before they reach the consumer ; besides which
there are extra charges for packing, shipping, and freight.
Thus the consumer, in a country town, where land often
is not as much in value per acre as it is here per lot,
pays twice the value for his partially stale vegetables or
fruits, which he receives rtorely sooner than twenty-four
hours after they are gathered.

In most of such towns, market gardening, carried on
after our manner, would, unquestionably, be highly remu-
nerative ; for if these articles were offered to the consumer
fresh from the gardens, he would certainly be willing to
pay more for his home-grown products, than from the brui<s-
ed and battered ones that are freighted from the metropo-
lis. Take for example the article of Celery, which pays us
very well at 2 cents per root. There is hardly a city or
town in the country, except New York, but where it sells
for twice, and in some cases six times, that price per root ;

18 GARDENING FOE PBOFIT.

yet the great bulk of this article sold in Philadelphia, is
sent from New York, for which the consumer must pay at
least douhle the price paid here, for it is a bulky and ex-
pensive article to pack and ship, and must of a necessity
pay a profit, both to the agent here and in Philadelphia,
which of course comes out of the pocket of the consumer.
This is only one of many such articles of which the cul-
ture is imperfectly understood, and which the great mar-
ket of New York is looked to for a supply.

The following will show the rate of receipts and ex-
penditures for one acre of a few of the leading articles we
cultivate, taking the average of the past ten years, from
the grounds that have been brought up to the proper
standard of fertility necessary to the market garden.

EXPENDITUBES FOB ONE ACRE.

Labor ." '. $300

Horse-labor 36

Manure, 75 tons 100

Rent 50

Seeds 10

Wear and Tear of Tools, etc 10

Cost of Selling 100

$605
RECEIPTS FOB ONE ACBE.

12,000 Early Cabbages, at 5 cts. per head $600

14,000 Lettuce, at 1 cent per head 140

30,000 Celery, at 2 cts. per head 600

$1340
605

$735

The rotation crops of Early Beets, or Onions, followed
by Horseradish, or Sweet Herbs, as a second crop, give
nearly the same results.

CHAPTER IY.

LOCATION, SITUATION, AND LAYING OUT.

LOCATION. — Before deciding on the spot for a garden,
too much caution cannot be used in selecting the locality ;
mistakes in this matter are often the sole cause of want
of success, even when all other conditions are favorable.
It is always better to pay a rent or interest of $50 or even
$100 per acre on land one or two miles from market, than
to take the same quality of land, 6 or 7 miles distant, for
nothing ; for the extra expense of teaming, procuring ma-
nure, and often greater difficulty in obtaining labor, far
more than counterbalance the difference in the rental of the
land. Another great object in being near the market is,
that orn3 can thereby take advantage of the condition of
prices, which often, in perishable commodities like garden
produce, is very variable. It not unfrequently happens that
from scarcity or an unusual demand, there wifl be a differ-
ence of $25 or $30 per load, even in one day, hence if near
a market, larger quantities can be thrown in than if at a
distance, and the advantage of higher rates be taken.

This disadvantage in distance only holds good in perish-
19

20 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

able articles, that are bulky; the lighter and valuable
crops, such as Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Lettuce, Radishes,
etc., from more southerly and earlier localities, are grown
often hundreds of miles distant, and freighted to market
at a handsome profit. So with less perishable articles, such
as dry roots of Carrots, Beets, Parsnips, Horseradish, etc. ;
but the necessity of nearness to market for the bulky and
perishable crops, is imperative.

SITUATION AND LAYING-OUT. — It is not always that
choice can be made in the situation of or aspect of the
ground ; but whenever it can be made, a level spot should
be selected, but if there be any slope, let it be to the south.
Shelter is of great importance in producing early crops,
and if a position can be got where the wind is broken off
by woods or hills, to the north, or northwest, such a situa-
tion would be very desir-
able. In the absence of
this, we find it necessary
to protect, at least our forc-
ing and framing grounds,
with high board fences, or
better yet, belts of Norway
Spruce. The most conve-
nient shape of the garden
is a square or oblong form ;

Fig. 1.— PLAH OF GROUND. Jf gquare) a To&& 1£ feet

wide should be made through the centre, intersected
by another road of similar width, see (fig. 1) ; but if ob-
long, one road of the same width, running through the
centre in a plot of ten acres, will be sufficient.

VEGETABLE HOUSE, WELLS, ETC. — Connected with ev-

LOCATION, SITUATION, AND LAYING OUT 21

ery market garden is a vegetable house, usually about 25
feet square, having a frost-proof cellar, over which is the
vegetable or washing house. In the second story is a loft
for seeds, storage, etc. Immediately outside the vegeta-
ble house is the well, from which the water is pumped to
a tub in one corner of the building, on each side of which
are erected benches of convenient hight on which the
workmen tie and wash the vegetables preparatory to
sending them to market.

CHAPTER Y.

SOILS, DRAINAGE, AND PREPARATION.

In the course of an experience of nearly 20 years as a
market gardener, in the neighborhood of New York, I have
had, in the prosecution of the business, the opportunity
of reclaiming large tracts of very different varieties of soil.
Some of these, almost the first season, yielded a handsome
profit, while with others, the labor of years, and the ex-
penditure of large sums in extra manuring and draining,
have never been able to bring these uncongenial soils up
to the proper standard of productiveness.

The variety of soil that we value above all others, is an
alluvial saline deposit, rarely found over more than a mile
inland from the tide mark. It is of dark heavy loam, con-
taining, throughout, a large mixture of decomposing oyster
and other shells ; it averages from 10 to 30 inches deep,
overlaying a subsoil of yellow sandy loam. The next
best variety is somewhat lighter soil, both in color and
specific gravity, from 8 to 15 inches deep, having a similar
subsoil to the above. Then we have a still lighter soil, in
both senses of the term, in which the sand predominates
22

SOILS, DRAINAGE, AND PREPARATION. 23

over the loam, and laying on a subsoil of pure sand ; this
variety of soil is well adapted for Melons, Cucumbers,
Sweet Potatoes, Radishes, and Tomatoes, but is almost
useless for growing crops of Onions, Cabbages, or Celery.
We have still another kind of soil, which I place last, as
being of the least value for the purpose of growing vege-
tables ; this variety, singularly enough, is found on the
highest points only, its color is somewhat lighter than the
variety first mentioned ; it is what is termed a clayey loam,
averaging ten inches in depth, under which is a thick stra-
tum of stiff bluish clay. "With a subsoil of this nature, it
is almost useless to attempt to grow early vegetables for
market purposes.

I have just such a soil, as the last mentioned, thoroughly
drained three feet deep, the drains only 18 feet apart, and
yet, in another garden, that I work, having the two first
named soils and only one mile distant, manured and culti-
vated the same in all respects, fruits and vegetables are
ready from 5 to 10 days earlier. But for the succession,
or second crops, such as Celery, etc., this stiff cold soil
is just what is wanted ; earliness with these is not the ob-
ject, and its " coldness " is congenial to the roots of the
late crop. But if selection can be made for general pur-
poses, choose a rather dark-colored loam soil, neither
" sandy " nor " clayey,'' as deep as can be found, but not
less than 12 inches. If it overlay a sandy loam of yellow-
ish color, through which water will pass freely, you have
struck the right spot, and abundant crops can be raised
under proper management. When selecting land, do not
be deceived by any one who tells you, that if not natur-
ally good, the soil may be made so by cultivation and

S4 GARDEJSTNG FOB PBOF1T.

manure. These will help, certainly, but only as education
improves the shallow mind. Luxuriant crops can no more
be expected from a thin and poor soil — no matter how
much it is cultivated — than fertile ideas from a shallow
brain, educate it as you will.

DRAINAGE. — Every operator in the soil concedes the
importance of drainage, yet it is really astonishing to ob-
serve how men will work wet lands year after year, wast-
ing annually, by loss of crops, twice the amount required
to thoroughly drain. A most industrious German, in this
vicinity, cultivated about 8 acres for 3 years, barely mak-
ing a living ; his soil was an excellent loam, but two-thirds
of it was so " spongy," that he could never get it plowed
until all his neighbors had their crops planted. Driving
past one day, I hailed him, asking him why he was so late
in getting in his crop, when he explained that if he had
begun sooner, his horses would have " bogged " so, he
might never have got them out again. I suggested drain •
ing, but he replied that would never pay on a leased place ;
he had started on a ten years lease, which had only 7
years more to run, and that he would only being improv-
ing it for his landlord, who would allow him nothing for
such improvement. After some further conversation I
asked him to jump into my wagon, and in 10 minutes we
alighted at a market garden, that had 6 years before been
just such a swamp hole as his own, but now, (the middle
of May), was luxuriant with vegetation. I explained to
him what its former condition had been, and that the in-
vesting of $500, in drain tiles, would, in 12 months, put his
in the same condition. He, being a shrewd man, acted on
the advice, and at the termination of his lease, purchased

SOILS, DBAINAGE, AJO> PKEPAKATION. 25

and paid for his 8 acres $12.000, the savings of six years
on his drained garden. I honestly believe, that, had he
gone on without draining, he would not have made $1200
in 12 years, far less $12.000 in 6 years. My friend esti-
mates his whole success in life to our accidental meeting
and conversation that May morning, and consequently

1 have no stauncher friend on earth than he.

The modes of draining must be guided to a great ex-
tent by circumstances ; wherever stones are abundant on
land, the most economical way to dispose of them, is to
use them for drainage. I have also used with great suc-
cess, in a wet sandy subsoil, where digging was easily
done, brush, from adjacent woods cut off, and trod firmly

2 feet deep in the bottom of drains 5 feet deep, overlaying
the brush with straw or meadow hay before covering in.
Drains so made, have answered well for nearly a dozen
years, and in situations where no other material offers,
they will at least answer a temporary purpose. But un-
questionably, when at all attainable, at anything like
reasonable cost, the cheapest and most thorough draining
is by tile. "We use here the ordinary horse-shoe tile ; 3-
inch size for the laterals, and from 5 to 6 inch for the
mains. On stiff clayey soils, we make our lateral drains

3 feet deep, and from 15 to 18 feet apart ; on soils with
less compact subsoils, from 20 to 25 feet distant. We find
it cheaper to use the horse-shoe than the sole tile ; in lieu
of the sole we cut common hemlock boards in 4 pieces ;
that is, cut them through the middle, and split these again,
making a board, thus cut, run about 50 feet ; these are
placed in the bottom of the drains, and prevent the sag-
ging of the tiles in any particular spot that might be soft.

26 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

(fig. 2). We are particularly careful to place, after set-
ting, a piece of sod, grass down, over the joinings of the

Fig. 2. — HORSE-SHOE TILE.

tiles, to prevent the soil from getting in and stopping up
the drainage.

The manner of constructing stone drains, is governed
by the character of the stone on hand ; if round, they are
best made as rubble drains, (fig. ,3) ; but if flat, which is
much the best, they are made as represented by fig. 4.

Fig. 3. — BUBBLE DRAIN. Fig. 4. — FLAT STONE DKAIN.

But in either case, the same care must be exercised in cov-
ering over the top, thoroughly, with sod, shavings, straw,
or some similar material, in quantity sufficient to prevent
the soil from washing in and filling up the cavity.
. PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. — Assuming that the
ground on which the garden is to be formed is in sod, the

SOILS, DRAINAGE, AND PBEPABATION. 27

best time to begin operations is in September, October, or
November. If draining is necessary, that should be first
completed. Before the sod is plowed, it would greatly
assist its rotting, if horse manure can be obtained, to spread
it over the surface, to the depth of two or three inches. In
plowing the sod under, care should be taken to have it laid
as flat as possible ; this can be best done by plowing shal-
low, and at this time there is no particular necessity for
deep plowing. After plowing, we find it advantageous to
flatten down the furrows, by running over with the bacTc
of the harrow ; this mellows the soil so that it fills up the
crevices left between the furrows, and hastens the de-
composition of the sod. If the plowing has been done
early enough in the fall, so that the sod has had time to
rot the same season, it will facilitate the operations of
next spring to cross plow and thoroughly harrow ; but if
too late, this had better be deferred until spring. After
the ground has been well broken up by this second plow-
ing and harrowing, it should again be manured over the
whole surface with rough stable manure, as much as can
well be procured ; there is rarely danger of getting too
, much, and the third plowing takes place, followed this
time by the subsoiler. I have always found it best, in
breaking in new ground, to crop with Potatoes, Corn, or
late Cabbages the first season, — it rarely indeed happens
that any amount of labor or manuring can so prepare the
ground, the first season, as to bring it to that high degree
of tilth necessary for growing garden vegetables as the}
should be grown, and any attempt to do so, will result in
a meagre crop, which will not pay — at least in such dis
tricts as New York, where there is always abundance ol

28 GABDENING FOB PROFIT.

products of the first quality. It must not be expected
that the crops of Potatoes, etc., will give much profit
for this unusual outlay in preparation and manure, for
they certainly will not, and the beginner must be content
to wait for his profits until the second season ; these are
certain to be realized if these preparations have been prop-
erly made, hence it will be seen the necessity for capital in
this business, for the returns, though highly remunerative,
are not quick.

CHAPTER VI.

MANURES.

The quantity, quality, and proper application of ma-
nures, is of the utmost importance in all gardening opera-
tions, and few have any conception of the immense quantity
necessary to produce the heavy crops seen in our market
gardens. Of stable or barn-yard manure, from 50 to 100
tons per acre is used, and prepared, for at least six months
previously, by thorough turning and breaking up to pre-
vent its heating unduly. The usual method is to have the
manure-yard formed in a low part of the garden, but if
there is no natural depression, one may be made by dig-
ging out from 18 to 24 inches deep, and enclosing it by a
fence about 6 feet in hight. .The wagons are driven along-
side, and the green manure thrown into the enclosure,
care being taken to have it spread regularly ; hogs are
usually kept upon the manure in numbers sufficient to
break it up, they being fed in part by the refuse vege-
tables and weeds of the garden.

The manure of horses is most valued, as we consider it,
weight for weight, of about one-third more value than that
of cows or hogs; on stiff soils it is of much more benefit
29

30 GARDENTNG FOB PROFIT.

as a pulverizer. There are many articles, the refuse of
manufactures, that are still wasted, that have great value
as manures. Among others, and of first importance, is
the refuse hops from the breweries. It is a dozen years
ago since they first began to be used in our gardens about
New York; at first they were to be had almost at
every brewery without cost, but the demand has so in-
creased, that the price to-day ranges even higher than that
of the best stable manure. Aside from its high fertilizing
properties, it is excellent for breaking up and pulverizing
the soil, and as a top-dressing or mulching, either to pro-
tect from the sun in summer, or from the frost in winter,
it has no equal. From my experience with this fertilizer,
I consider it to be of nearly double the value of that of
stable manure. It requires to be composted in the same
manner as other manure ; it heats rapidly, and must be
either spread regularly over the hog yard, or else turned
once in two weeks to prevent " fire-fang," from violent
heating.

Another valuable refuse from our manufactories is the
shavings and scrapings from horn, or whale-bone manu-
factories. The best way to render these most available,
is to compost them thoroughly with hot manure, in the
proportion of one ton of shavings to fifteen of manure ;
the heated manure extracts the oil from the shavings,
which is intermingled with the whole. I have on several
occasions seen the mixture of five tons of whale-bone
shavings with our ordinary stable manure, make $400 per
acre difference in the value of the crop ; but of course
such manufactories are not common, and it is only in cer-
tain localities that this fertilizer can be had.

MANURES. 81

Another valuable fertilizer from manufactories is " sugar
house scum," which is composed largely of blood, char-
coal, and saccharine refuse ; as it heats violently, instead
of being thrown in heaps by itself, it should be composted
wi th equal quantities of soil or muck, and turned frequent-
ly, so that the whole is thoroughly mixed ; thus when
composted, it makes an excellent manure at twenty tons
per acre ; it is best applied by lightly plowing, or deeply
harro wing-in.

Of concentrated manures, perhaps the best for general
purposes, is pure Peruvian guano ; this for general crops,
when used without the addition of stable manures, is put
on at the rate of from 1000 to 1200 pounds per acre; it is
first pounded to powder so that it can be regularly sown
over the surface, after plowing ; it is then thoroughly har-
rowed in, and the crop is sown or planted at once. In my
experience, the next best concentrated fertilizer is bone-
dust, or flour of bone ; in experiments last season, with
our crops of cauliflower and cabbage, we applied it in
the same manner as guano, but at the rate of nearly 2000
pounds per acre, and it gave most satisfactory results, sur-
passing those of guano, where that had been used at the rate
of 1200 pounds per acre. In applying manures to the
soil, we have long ago discovered the great importance of
an alternation of different kinds ; when I first began busi-
ness as a market gardener, I had opportunities of getting
large quantities of night soil from the scavengers of Jersey
City ; this was mixed with stable manure, charcoal, saw-
dust, or any other absorbent most convenient, and applied
so mixed at the rate of about 30 ^tons per acre. The
ciops raised with this manure were enormous, for two or

32 GABDENING FOB PROFIT.

three years, but it gradually began to lose effect, and in
five years from the time we began to use it, it required
nearly double the weight of this compost to produce even
an average crop. I then abandoned the use of night soil
and applied refuse hops instead, at the rate of about 60
tons per acre, with marked improvement ; but this was
for the first and second years only, the third year showing
a falling off. About this time our prejudices against the
use of concentrated manures for market gardening began
to give way, and at first we applied guano together with
manure at the rate of 300 pounds per acre, which we
found to pay ; and the next season, guano was used at the
rate of 1200 Ibs. per acre, with very satisfactory results.
Since then, our practice has been a systematic alternation
of manures, which I am convinced is of quite as much
importance to the production of uniform crops of first
quality, as is the alternation of varieties of the different
kinds of vegetables.

It is a grave blunder to attempt to grow vegetable
crops, without the use of manures of the various kinds in
about the proportions I have named. I never yet saw soil
of any kind that had borne a crop of vegetables that
would produce as good a crop the next season without the
use of manure, no matter how " rich " the soil may be
thought to be. An illustration of this came under my
observation last season. One of my neighbors, a mai'ket
gardener of nearly twenty years' experience, and whose
grounds have always been a perfect model of productive-
ness, had it in prospect to run a sixty-foot street through
his grounds ; thinking his land sufficiently rich to carry
through a crop of Cabbages, without manure, he thought

MANURES. 33

it useless to waste money by using guano on that portion
on which the street was to be, but on each side sowed
guano at the rate of 1200 pounds per acre, and planted
the whole with Early Cabbages. The effect was the most
marked I ever saw ; that portion on which the guano had
been used sold off readily at $12 per hundred, or about
$1400 per acre, both price and crop being more than an
average ; but the portion from which the guano had been
withheld, hardly averaged $3 per 100. The street occu-
pied fully an acre of ground, so that my friend actually lost
over $1000 in crop, by withholding $60 for manure. An-
other neighbor, whose lease had only one year to run, and
who also unwisely concluded that it would be foolish to
waste manure on his last crop, planted and sowed all with-
out it ; the result was, as his experience should have taught
him, a crop of inferior quality in every article grown, and
loss on his eight acres of probably $2000 for that season.

CHAPTER VII.

IMPLEMENTS.

The most important implements in use in the vegetable
garden are the plow and harrow, which should be always
used, to the exclusion of the spade or digging fork, when-
ever it is practicable to do so. No digging, in the ordi-

Fig. 5.— ALLEN'S CYLINDER PLOW.

nary way, can pulverize the soil so thoroughly as can be
done by the plow and harrow, nor no trenching much sur-
pass in its results that done by thorough subsoiling. Fig.
5 represents the plow in use by the market gardeners, and
34

IMPLEMENTS.

known as Allen's Patent Cylinder Plow. So superior are
the pulverizing powers of this plow to those of the
spade, that no market gardener here, of any experience,
would allow his grounds to be dug, even if it were done
so free of cost.

Fig. 6 represents the Lifting Subsoil Plow, it is strongly
made, of steel, and follows in the wake of the surface plow,

Fig. 6. — LIFTING SUBSOIL PLOW.

lifting and breaking (but not turning) the subsoil to the
depth of 6 or 12 inches, as may be desired. On very stiff
soils we use the subsoiler once in two years ; on lighter
soils not so often, although if time would always permit
there is no doubt but that it would be beneficial to use it
whenever plowing is done.

The harrow in use is rather peculiar in style, but is best

suited for garden work ;
it contains some forty
teeth about 10 inches
long ; these are driven
through the wood-work,
leaving 5 or 6 inches
of the sharpened end

Fig. 7. — GARDEN HARROW.

on the one side and from 1^ to 2 inches of the blunt end
on the other, as shown in fig. 7. After the ground has

36

GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

been thoroughly pulverized by the teeth of the harrow, it
is turned upside down, and " backed," as we term it ; the
short blunt teeth further breaking up the soil and smooth-
ing it to a proper condition to receive the seeds or plants.

But there are many spots in the gar-

den .that it is impracticable to plow,

such as our frames, borders, and oc-

casionally between rows where the

space is too narrow

for a horse to walk ;

such places must

be dug, and here

we use the Dig-

ging Fork, repre-

sented by fig. 8, in

preference to the

spade. Its prongs

enter the soil more

easily than the

blade of the spade,
FOKK. and by striking the
soil turned over, with the back of the
fork, it pulverizes it better than can
be done by the blade of the spade.
Still there are many operations in the
garden, such as the digging up of
roots, earthing up of Celery, etc., for which the spade is
indispensable. For such purposes, the one represented
by fig. 9, and known as " Ames' No. 2, Plain-back," we
find the best.

Fi<r. a-

.—AMES' No. 2
SPADE.

IMPLEMENTS.

37

For stirring between narrow rows of Cabbage, Celery,
etc., we use a small one-horse plow before using the culti-
vator ; this is represented by fig. 10, and is known as the
Skeleton Plow. Following this is our main implement

Fig. 10.— SKELETON PLOW.

for cultivating between rows, which is simply a triangu-
lar adjustable Harrow, represented by fig. 11. This
implement we prefer to any variety of cultivators we
have ever used, on ground where there are no weeds,

(and weeds are rarely al-
lowed to grow in our
market gardens), as its
teeth sink from three to
four inches deep if kept
sharpened ; when extra
depth is wanted, a weight
In all hoeing operations by
hand, the steel pronged Hoe, fig. 12, is used in prefer-
ence to the old-fashioned blade hoe; yet, superior as
this implement is to the blade hoe, it is not more than

Fig. 11. — CULTIVATOR.

is put on to sink it deeper.

GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

six years ago since it came into general use. A man can

do full one-third more work with it,

do it better, and with greater ease,

than with the blade hoe ; true, it is

not so good in cutting over weeds,

but weeds should never be seen in

a garden, for whether for pleasure or

profit, it is short-sighted economy to

delay the destruction of weeds until

they start to grow. One man will hoe

over, in one day, more ground where Fis- 12.— PKONGED HOE.
the weeds are just breaking
through, than six will, if they
be allowed to grow six or eight
inches in hight, to say noth-
ing of the injury done to the
ground by feeding the weeds in-
stead of the planted crops. An-
other benefit of this early extir-
pation of weeds is, that taken
in this stage, they of course nev-
er seed, and in a few years they
are almost entirely destroyed,
making the clearing a much sim-
pler task each succeeding year.
Another tool used in place of
the hoe, is the steel Rake, fig. 13,
which we use in various sizes,
from 8 inches to 20 inches in

width. Nearly all our first " hoeing " is done with these ;

that is, the ground is raked over and levelled in from two

Fi<T. 13. — STEEL RAKE.

IMPLEMENTS.

39

to three days after planting ; this destroys the germs of the
weeds ; in from five to ten days, according to the state of
the weather, the ground is again gone
over with the rakes. "We are no believ-
ers in deep hoeing on newly planted or
sown crops, it is only when plants begin
to grow that deep hoeing is beneficial.
For using between narrow rows of
crops, just starting from the ground,
the push or Scuffle Hoe, (fig. 14), is a
most effective tool ; we use them from 6
to 12 inches wide ; they require to be
always about 3 inches narrower than
the rows ; thus, in rows 9 inches apart,
we use the 6-inch hoe.

The Clod Crusher, fig. 15, an imple-
ment much used in England, is of great
value in pulverizing the surface of
rough heavy soils, following after the
harrow; on light soils, that pulverize
sufficiently with the harrow, it is not necessary.

lig. 14.— SCUFFLE

HOE.

. 15. — CLOD CRUSIIER.

40 GARDENING FOB PROFIT.

Another indispensable implement is the Roller, fig. 16 ;
it is of great importance not only in breaking lumpy soil,
but in firming it properly around newly sown seeds, be-
sides, the ground leveled by the roller is much easier hoed
than if the surface were uneven or irregular. The roller
we use is made of hard
wood, and is 5 or 6 feet
long, and 9 inches in diam-
eter. The roller is bored
though its whole length,
and through this hole is put
a bar of 2-inch round iron.
Fig. 16. — GARDEN ROLLER. This bar gives the neces-

sary weight, and its projecting ends afford points to
which to attach the handle.

The Double Marker, fig. 17, is used to mark 6 or 8 lines
at once, as may be required ; the spaces between the teeth
being 12 inches on one
side, and 9 inches on
the other. Where rows
are required only of
these widths, every row
is of course planted,
but many of our crops re-
quire wider rows, thus, Fi§' ".-DOUBLE MARKER.

with the 12-inch marker, we plant our early Cabbages at
24 inches apa$, the intervening rows being planted with
Lettuce at the same time ; or with the narrow side of
the marker, every row, 9 inches apart, is planted with
Onion sets, or in such a crop as Beets, every alternate
row only is used, making the rows 18 inches apart. The

IMPLEMENTS. 41

manner of using the marker will readily suggest itself.
A line being stretched tightly to the required length, the
outer tooth is set against it and. steadily drawn to the end,
returning, the outer row forms the guide for the marker,
and so on until finished. The marker is usually a home-
made implement, of wood, but it answers rather better to
have the teeth made of iron, scooped, something like a
common garden trowel.

The Market Wagon (figure 18) is made after various
patterns in different sections of the country ; that shown

Fig. 18. — MARKET WAG

in the cut is the kind used by us, and is usually drawn
by one horse, it is strongly made, weighing about 1400
pounds, and is capable of carrying from 2000 to 3000
pounds.

The Seed Drill, fig. 19, next page, is used in sowing large
field crops of Onions, Carrots, Turnips, etc., and can be
adjusted to suit all sizes of seeds. It is, however, more
an implement of the farm than the garden, and rarely
used in small market gardens, most cultivators deem,
ing it safer to sow by hand. Sowing by hand requires
more than twice the quantity of seed than when sown by
the drill, but the crops of our market gardens are too im-
portant to run any risk from such small considerations of

42 GABDENTNG FOB PROFIT.

economy. The greater risk in thinly sown crops being
from destruction by insects, frost, or the thin sowing not

Fig. 19. — WETHERSFIELD SEED DRILL.

having strength enough to force through the soil in dry

weather.

The Dibber, fig. 20, is a very simple but indispensable
tool. It is of importance to ha^e it made in the
manner represented here ; it can be formed from
a crooked piece of any hard wood, and shod
with a sharp iron point, which gives weight to
it, besides it always keeps sharp. Dibbers are
too often made from an old spade or shovel
handle, when they are awkward and unhandy
affairs.

Fig. 20.— Planting is an operation that often requires
DIBBER, the most rapid movement to get a crop in at the

proper time, and the best appliances in woi'king are not to

be disregarded. With a dibber of this style, an ex-

IMPLEMENTS. 43

perienced planter, with a boy to drop the plants, as we
invariably practise, will plant from 6000 to 10,000 plants
per day, according to the kind of plant or condition of
the ground. I have on many occasions planted, in one
day, three acres of Celery, holding about 90,000 plants,
with ten men, each of whom had a boy, from ten to four-
teen years of age, to drop the plants down before him.
This plan of using boys is not generally adopted, but I
have repeatedly proved that, by thus dividing the labor,
a boy and a man will do more planting than two men
would if plai ting singly, and each carrying his own plants.

CHAPTER

THE USES AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD
FRAMES.

We use cold frames for preserving Cauliflower, Cab-
bage and Lettuce plants during the winter, and the for-
warding of Lettuce and Cucumbers in spring and summer.

To make the matter as clear as possible, we will suppose
that the market gardener, having five or six acres of land,
has provided himself with 100 of 3 x 6 feet sashes. The
Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Lettuce plants, which they are
intended to cover in winter, should be sown in the open
garden from the 10th to the 20th of September, and when
of sufficient size, which they will be in about a month from
the time of sowing, they must be replanted in the boxes
or frames, to be oovered by the sashes as winter advances.

The boxes or frames we use, are simply two boards, run-
ning parallel, and nailed to posts to secure them in line.
The one for the back is ten or twelve inches wide, and
that for the front seven or eight inches, to give the sashes,
when placed upon them, pitch enough to carry off rain,
and to better catch the sun's rays. The length of the
44

USES AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 45

frame or box may be regulated by the position in which
it is placed ; a convenient length is fifty or sixty feet, re-
quiring eighteen or twenty sashes.

Shelter from the north-west is of great importance, and
if the ground is not sheltered naturally, a board fence six
feet in hight is almost indispensable. The sashes should
face south or south-east. Each sash will hold five hundred
plants of Cabbage or Cauliflower, and about eight hun-
dred of Lettuce. These numbers will determine the proper
distance apart, for those who have not had experience.
It should never be lost sight of, that these plants are al-
most hardy, and consequently will stand severe freezing
without injury ; but to insure this condition they must be
treated as their nature demands; that is, that in cold
weather, and even in clear winter days, when the thermom-
eter marks 15 or 20 degrees in the shade, they must be
abundantly aired, either by tilting up the sash at the back,
or better still, when the day is mild, by stripping the sash
clear off. By this hardening process, there is no necessity
for any other covering but the sash. In our locality, we
occasionally have the thermometer from 5° to^ 10° below
zero for a day or two together, yet in all our time we have
never used mats, shutters, or any covering except the
glass, and I do not think we lose more than two per cent,
of our plants. Some may think that the raising of plants
hi this manner must involve considerable trouble, but when
they are informed that the Cabbage and Lettuce plants so
raised and planted out in March or April, not unfrequently
bring a thousand dollars per acre before the middle of
July, giving us time to follow up with Celery for a second
crop, it will be seen that the practice is not unprofitable.

46 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

But we have not yet done with the use of the sashes ;
to make them still available, spare boxes or frames must
be made, in all respects similar to those in use for the Cab-
bage plants. These frames should be covered up during
winter with straw or leaves in depth sufficient to keep the
ground from freezing, so that they may be got at and be
in condition to be planted with Lettuce by the end of Feb-
ruary, or the first of March. By this time the weather
is always mild enough to allow the sashes to be taken off
from the Cabbage and Lettuce plants, and they are now
transferred to the spare frames to cover and forward the
Lettuce. Under each sash we plant fifty Lettuce plants,
having the ground first well enriched by digging in about
three inches of well rotted manure. The management of
the Lettuce for heading is in all respects similar to that
used in preserving the plants in winter ; the only thing to
be attended to, being to give abundance of air, and on the
occasion of rain to remove the sashes entirely, so that the
ground may receive a good soaking, which will tend to
promote a more rapid and luxuriant growth.

The crop is fit for market in about six weeks from time
of planting, which is always two or three weeks sooner
than that from the open ground. The average price for
all planted is about $4 per hundred at wholesale, so that
again, with little trouble, our crop gives us $2 per sash in
§ix weeks.

I believe this second use of the sash is not practiced
outside of this district, most gardeners having the opinion
that the winter plants of Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Lettuce,
would be injured by their complete exposure to the
weather at as early a date as the first of March. In fact.

USES AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 47

here we have still a few old fogies among us, whose timid-
ity or obstinacy in this matter prevents them from making
this use of their sashes, which thereby causes them an an-
nual loss of $2 per sash, and as some of them have over a
thousand sashes, the loss is of some magnitude.

In my own practice, I have made my sashes do double
duty in this way for fifteen years ; the number when I
first started being fifty, increasing to the present time,
when I have in use fifteen hundred sashes. Yet in all that
time I have only once got my plants (so exposed) injured,
and then only a limited number, which I had neglected to
suificiently harden by airing.

We have still another use of the sashes to detail. Our
Lettuce being cut out by middle of May, we then plant
five or six seeds of the Improved White Spine Cucumber,
in the centre of each sash. At that season they come up
at once, protected by the covering at night. The sashes
are left on until the middle of June, when the crop begins
to be sold. The management of the Cucumber crop, as
regards airing, is hardly different from that of the Lettuce,
except in its early stage of growth it requires to be kept
warmer ; being a tropical plant, it is very impatient of be-
ing chilled, but in warm days airing should never be neg-
lected, as the concentration of the sun's rays oil the glass
would raise the temperature to an extent to injure, if not
entirely destroy the crop. This third use of the sashes I
have never yet made so profitable as the second, although
always sufficiently so to make it well worth the labor.

There are a few men here who make a profitable busi-
ness from the use of sashes only, having no ground except
that occupied by the frames. In this way the winter crop

48 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

of Cauliflower or Cabbage plants is sold at an average-of
$3 per sash, in March or April ; the Lettuce at $2 per sash
in May, and the Cucumbers at $1 per sash in June, making
an average of $6 per sash for the season ; and it must be
remembered that these are wholesale prices, and that too,
in the market of New York, where there is great compe-
tition. There is no doubt, that in hundreds of cities and
towns of the Union, the same use of sashes would double
or treble these results.

Cold frames are also used for sowing the seeds of Cab-
bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, instead of hot-beds; if
the frames are closely shut up and covered at night by
mats, the plants will be but little later than those from the
hot-beds, and are raised with far less trouble. In sections
of the country where these plants cannot be set out before
May, it is useless to raise them in hot-beds. On the other
hand, in the Southern States, where in the months of Feb-
ruary and March there are no frosts, by adopting the same
care in covering up at night, the seeds of Tomatoes, Pep-
pers, and Egg plants, and the sprouts from Sweet Pota-
toes, can be forwarded with much less trouble in the cold
frames than in the hot-bed.

CHAPTER IX.

FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF
HOT-BEDS.

Although we do not consider hot-beds so convenient or
even economical in the long run as the forcing houses,
elsewhere described, yet, as beginners in the business are
usually not over-supplied with means, and as hot-beds are
to be had at much less first cost than the forcing houses,
we give a description of their formation and management.
The most convenient sash for the hot-bed is the 3x6 foot
sash, made out of 1£ inch pine, costing here, at present
prices, when painted and glazed, about $4 each. This is
almost double the cost of what they were before the reign
of high prices ; but as we get corresponding rates for the
commodities raised under them, we must not complain.

The frame for the hot-bed is usually made movable, in
lengths which three sashes will cover, making, when com-
plete, a box-like structure, 9 feet long, (the width of 3
ashes, 3 feet wide), and 6 feet wide, (the length of the
sashes) ; at the bottom or lower part, the plank should be
1.5 or 18 inches high ; the back or top, 24 inches ; so that,
3 49

50 GARDENING FOB PROFIT.

when the sashes are placed on, it will give them the neces-
sary angle to receive the sun's rays and throw off the rain.
The sashes should be made as tight fitting as they will
easily work, and the plank, forming the sides of the box,
ghould be high enough to cover the thickness of the sash,
n order to prevent the cold air from penetrating. This is
one style of hot-bed frame, and the one most commonly
used in private gardens; but in our market gardens,
where a large surface is used, our necessities compel us to
adopt a far more economical mode, both in the cost of the
frame work and heating material. This is done somewhat
after the manner" adopted for Cold Frames. Parallel ex-
cavations are made, usually in lengths of 60 feet, 2$ feet
deep, and 6 feet wide ; the sides of these pits are boarded
up with any rough boarding, nailed to posts, and raised
above the surface 18 inches at the back, and 12 inches at
front. Strips are stretched across, on which the sashes
rest, wide enough to receive the edges of the two sashes
where they meet, and allow of a piece of about an inch
between them, so that the sash can be shoved backward
and forward, and be kept in place in giving air, etc.

The heating material is next in order ; this should be
horse dung, fresh from the stables, added to which, when
accessible, about one-half its bulk of leaves from the
woods. The manure and leaves should be well mixed and
trodden down in successive layers, forming a conical heap,
large enough to generate fermentation in severe winter
weather. Care must be taken that the material is not al-
lowed to lie scattered and get frozen, else great delay will
ensue before heat can be generated. A few days after the
pile has been thrown together, and a lively fermentation

FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. 51

has taken place, which will be indicated by the escape of
steam from the heap, it should be again turaed over and
carefully shaken out, formed again into a pile, and left un-
til the second fermentation occurs, which will be usually
in two or three days. It may now be placed in the pit,
being regularly beaten down by the back of the fork, and
trodden so that it is uniformly of the same solidity, and to
the required depth, 2^ feet. The sashes are now placed
on the frames, and kept close until the heat rises ; at this
time a thermometer, plunged in the heating material,
should indicate about 100 degrees, but this is too hot for
almost any vegetable growth, and besides the rank steam
given out by the fermentation, should be allowed to escape
before operations of sowing or planting begin. New be-
ginners are very apt to be impatient in the matter of hot-
beds, and often lose the first crop by planting or sowing
before the violent heat has subsided, which it generally
will do in about three days, if the heating material has been
sufficiently prepared. As soon as the thermometer in the
frame recedes to 90, soil should be placed on, to the depth
of 6 or 8 inches. This soil must be previously prepared,
of one-third well rotted manure, (or, if procurable, rotted
refuse hops, from breweries), and two-thirds good loam,
spread regularly over the surface of the hot-bed.

We use hot-beds for various purposes. One of the
most important uses is the forcing of Lettuce ; this ia
planted in the hot-beds, (from plants grown in the cold
frames), 50 under each sash, the first crop by 2nd week in
January ; it is covered at night by straw mats, and is usu-
ally marketable by the first of March. At that season Let-
tuce is always scarce, and will average, if properly grown,

5& GARDENING FOB PROFIT.

$8 per 100, or $4 per sash. The crop is cut out by the
first week in March, giving plenty time to plant the same
hot-bed again with Lettuce ; but now it is no longer a hot-
bed, for by this time the heat from the dung is exhausted,
and it is treated exactly as described in the chapter on
Cold Frames.

Another use for the hot-bed is the raising of Tomato,
and Egg, and Pepper plants. The bed should be prepared
for these, not sooner than the 2nd week in March, and of
temperature, about the same as before described. In sow-
ing, it is well to cover the seed with some very light
mold; nothing is better than leaf mold and sand, pat-
ting it gently with the back of the spade From the time

Fig. 21. — WATERING POT.

the seed is sown, attention to airing, during the hot part
of the day, and covering up at night, is essential, and also
that the soil be never allowed to get dry. The watering
should be done with a very fine rose Watering Pot, (fig.
21), and with tepid water. The temperature at night may
range from 55 to 65°, and during the day from 70 to 80°.
As soon as the seedling plants are an inch or two high,
which will be in 5 or 6 weeks, they must be taken up and
re-planted in a more extensive hot-bed, for they now re-
quire room. Tomatoes should be planted of a width to
give 75 or 100 in each sash. Pepper and Egg Plants do

FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. 53

better if planted in small flower pots, (3-inch), as they are
more difficult to transplant ; they may now also be kept
a little closer in the hot-bed than the Tomatoes, as they
require more heat. After transplanting, great care is nec-
essary that they always be immediately watered, and
shaded from the sun until they have struck root, which
will be in 2 or 3 days after transplanting.

The hot-bed is also the medium for procuring us Cab-
bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce plants, for early outside
planting, when not convenient to winter them over
as described in the uses of cold frames. The seeds of
these are sown about the last week in February, are treated
in all respects, as regards covering up at night, as the To-
matoes, etc. ; but being plants of greater hardiness, re-
quire more air during the day. They will be fit to plant
in the open garden by the middle of April. The beds
they are taken from are usually employed for the re-plant-
ing Tomatoes, which it is not safe to plant, in the open
ground here, before the middle of May.

Sweet Potato plants are almost universally raised in hot-
beds, but as this is a plant that luxuriates in a high tem-
perature, the hot-bed should not be formed to start them
until the middle of April. The soil should be a mixture of
sand and leaf mold, laid on of the usual thickness on the
hot-bed, 6 inches. The tubers are placed closely together,
and the same sandy compost sifted over them to the depth
of two inches ; some split the large ones lengthwise, and
place them flat side down ; they should not be watered
until they start to grow. They are fit to plant out about
six weeks after starting.

Two most essential points in working hot-beds are, in

54 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

covering up at night, and in giving air during the day.
It often happens that a few mild nights in March or April
delude us into the belief that all the cold weather is over,
and the covering up is in consequence either carelessly
performed or abandoned. Every season shows us scores
of victims to this mistake, who, by one cold night, lose
the whole labors of the season. It is always safest to
cover up tender plants, such as Tomatoes, Sweet Pota-
toes, etc., until the 10th of May in this latitude, and the
more hardy plants, such as Cabbage, to the 1st of April,
when raised in hot-beds ; even if there is no danger from
freezing, it will give a more uniform temperature, and con-
sequently conduce to a more healthy growth. The want
of close attention in airing is equally dangerous ; often an
hour's delay in raising the sashes, will have the effect of
scorching up the whole contents of the hot-bed, and ir-
regularity of airing will always produce " drawn " and
spindling plants, even when they are not entirely killed.
The thermometer is the only safe guide, and should be
regularly consulted, and whenever it indicates 75°, it is safe
to admit less or more of the outer air, proportioned of
course to the condition of the atmosphere ; if there be
bright sunshine, and cold wind, very little will suffice ; if
calm, mild, and sunny, admit larger quantities.

COVERINGS FOE PROTECTION AGAIKST FROST. — To cover
up hot-bed sashes, we use either light pine shutters or
straw mats ; the shutters are made the exact size of the
sash ; there is no necessity of their being more than half
an incli in thickness, as that is quite as effective in keeping
out the cold as two inches would be, and they are much
cheaper and more convenient to handle. Straw Mats are,

FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS.

55

however, by far the warmest covering, and in hot-bed cul-
ture are almost indispensable. They are always made at
home, during wet days or stormy weather in winter. The
manner of making them is very simple, and will readily
be learned at the first attempt. The "uprights," (or
warps), are formed of five strands of a tarred string,
known as " marline ; " these are tightly strained 10 inches
apart, by being attached to five strong nails at bottom of
a wall, corresponding with the same number 7 feet from
the bottom. Against these strings (beginning at the bot-
tom) are laid small handfuls of rye straw, the cut side

Fig. 22. — MAKING A ST11AW MAT.

out, as long and straight as can be procured ; this is se-
cured to the uprights by a lighter kind of tarrea string,
by taking a single turn around the upright and the straw,
and so continued until the mat is finished. Some use a
frame to which the strings, forming the warp, are attach-
ed, as shown in fig. 22. This allows the operator to have
his work upright or horizontal, as may be most convenient.
Two workmen will make about five mats in a day.

56 GARDENING FOB PROFIT.

When finished, the mats should be 7 feet in length and
4 1 feet in width, two being sufficient to cover three sash-
es. The reason for having them made one foot longer
than the sash is, that there may be 6 inches to overlap at
top and bottom, which are the most necessary points to
secure from frost. In making these mats they may be
constructed of sedge from the marshes, or salt meadow
hay, when rye straw cannot be procured. It is important,
however, that they may be made as light as possible, one
inch in thickness being quite sufficient. By care in hand-
ling them, these mats will last for six or eight years.

CHAPTER X.

FORCING PITS OR GREEN-HOUSES.

Forcing pits and green-houses of the style about to be
described, whenever the greater expense in their erection
is not a consideration, are, in our experience, far superior,
and in the course of five or six years, more economical for
all purposes of forcing or forwarding vegetables, than the
hot-bed or cold frame. Figure 23 represents the end sec-
tion and ground plan of the style we have in use, and
which may be adapted to any plant that requires artificial
heat and protection of glass. The pits, represented by
this plan, are 100 feet in length, and each 11 feet wide in-
side. The heating is accomplished by one of Hitching's
Patent Boilers, ( (7), heating about 1200 feet of 4-inch pipe.
The glass roof, (E\ is formed of portable sashes, 6*3 feet ;
each alternate sash is screwed down, the others being
movable, so as to give abundance of air. The fixed roof
plan of building green-houses or pits, is, in our climate, a
great mistake, in my opinion, unless in large graperies
or conservatories, where architectural beauty is of more
consideration than the health of the plants. The mov-
3* 57

58

GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

© ©

_LJ LJ_

n

Fig. 23. — END SECTION AND GROUND PLAN OF FORCING PITS HEATED
BY WATER PIPES.

FORCING PITS OE GREEN-HOUSES. 59

able sash is elevated, to admit air, by an iron bar,
15 inches long, attached to the sash by a staple; in-
to this bar is punched three holes, so to regulate the
admission of the air as required. When the sash is
shut down, the bar is hooked on to a pin which se;
cures it in place, so that the sash cannot be moved bj
wind. I am thus particular in describing what may seem
a simple matter ; but this system of airing is not common,
and we made some stupid blunders before we hit on our
present plan, which is cheap, simple, and very effective.
The movable sash is not hinged at the bottom, but is held
in place by two small plates of iron screwed on the gutter
plate. The lidge-poles are cut out of the shape shown
at 7", and the sashes lie on the shoulder. The interior
arrangement of the pits will' be easily understood by the
end section. 6r, shows the bench or table as it is complet-
ed; this shows the boxing-in of the pipes, (Z>), to give
" bottom heat " to the cuttings, seeds, or plants, that are
placed on the bench, but on the sides of the bench, along
the walk, one plank is hinged throughout the house, so
that it may be let down when required, and permit the es-
cape of heat into the pit. The walks through the house,
(J5T), are 2 feet wide. A brick shed, (A), covers the
boiler pit, (^P), and is attached to the north end of the
pits. Besides breaking the wind at this vulnerable point,
we find this shed a most excellent place for many purposes,
as it is kept from freezing by the heat that escapes from
the boiler pit, which would otherwise be lost. This heat
may be rendered to a very profitable account in forcing
Mushrooms or Rhubarb, if desired for that purpose.
The system of attaching three pits together, if not new

GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

in this country, is certainly new in its almost universal adop-
tion by commercial gardeners, in all houses erected dur-
ing the past five years in the neighborhood of New York ;
it has great advantages over the detached system, be-
ing less expensive in heating, more saving of space, and,
above all, far more economical in cost of construction.
I prefer having only three together^ for the reason that,
when we have the snow to clear away, it is quickly done by

being shoveled from the
two valleys or furrows
over the ridges ; although
we have one grower in
this neighborhood who
has 12 connected houses,
and finds but little trouble
with snow; our snows
being mostly from the
North, the shed breaks
them off in a great meas-
ure, and uhat blows over,
blows mostly off through
the valley between the
The water from

the gutter is led into a
cistern, at the south end
Fig. 24.— WEST'S FORCE PUMP. of the green-houses, of a
capacity of not less than 3000 cubic feet, if 5000, all the bet-
ter ; to this is connected a West's Force Pump, fig. 24, with
150 feet of 1^-inch hose, and to the end of the hose is attach-
ed a heavy sprinkler. One man pumps, and another regu-
lates the water and sprinkles it over the plants. My estab-

FORCING PITS OR GREEN-HOUSES. 61

lishment contains over an acre of glass, and yet, by this
labor-saving arrangement, all the plants are thoroughly
drenched with water by two men in four hours. Before
adopting this method, which I only did last year for the
first time, four hands were employed the whole day dur-
ng the spring months in watering, and then the work
was not done half so well. There is nothing that I have
ever done connected with horticultural operations, that
has been so entirely satisfactory as this system of watering.
In these pits may be propagated and grown Grape
Vines, Roses, and green-house and bedding plants of every
description, in the best possible manner. But as our pres-
ent purpose is only with vegetables, I will endeavor to de-
scribe our mode of operations with some of these. As
Lettuce, from the great quantities consumed in all large
cities, is now, and will be likely to be, one of the most
profitable vegetables to force, we begin, for our first crop,
by sowing the seed about the first of September, in the
open ground, of the Tennis Ball, or Black-seeded Butter
sorts. These are planted on the benches of the forcing
house in five or six weeks after, at about six or eight
inches apart each way, on well enriched soil, placed on the
benches to the depth of five or six inches. At this season,
no " forcing " is required, in fact, if the sashes could be
taken completely off until the middle of November, so
much the better, but when it is not convenient, the sashes
should be kept raised to admit air, night and day, until
frosts begin to be severe ; then they should be shut up at
night, but no fire heat should be applied until the weather
has been severe enough to indicate 32 or 34 inside the pits,
and even then very slight, for if thev can be brought to

62 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

maturity at this season without the temperature exceed-
ing forty at night, (by fire heat), the crop will be all the
better. The great thing in forcing all plants of this hardy
nature being to avoid a high temperature. This first
crop is usually ready by middle of December, and is cut
off and sold in two weeks; the soil on the benches is
slightly manured, dug up, and again planted (from plants
sown in cold frames, or in boxes in the same pit) about No-
vember 1st. This second, or winter crop, requires more
attention in growing, both in firing, watering, and airing,
as it matures about March 1st, and consequently has had
to be cared for during the coldest part of the year. The
third crop, treated exactly as the second, is planted soon
as the other is cut off, and matures about May 1st. We
now vary the use of the pit, by planting at distances of
about three feet apart along the centre of the bench,
plants of the White Spine Cucumber, from seed sown
about April first, in a corner of the pit that has been
kept closer and warmer than that for the Lettuce ; these
are planted in pots about 3 inches in diameter, and by the
time the benches are cleared in May, are fine strong plants,
that gives a full crop during the month of June — fully a
month sooner than from the open ground. The combined
value of these four crops will average about $500, for an
erection 100 feet in length by 11 feet in width. The esti
mated expense of cultivation is : —

Interest on $1000, cost of construction, at 10 per cent $100

Coal, 5 tons 50

Labor, Manure, etc 100

$250
Receipts 500

Nett Profit... ...$250

FORCING PITS OE GREEN-HOUSES. 63

These forcing pits are likewise used for starting seeds
of Tomato, Egg, Pepper, Cabbage, and Cauliflower, and
sprouting Sweet Potatoes, which is done with far less risk
and in a much better manner, than can be accomplished
by the hot-bed. One great advantage is, that by being
able to walk inside of them, these pits are accessible in
all weathers, while with the hot-bed or frames, we are in
winter often debarred from examination for whole days
together.

At present prices, in this locality, these pits cost
about $10 per lineal foot, everything complete put
up in the way indicated by the plan in a plain sub-
stantial manner. But those whose circumstances do
not admit of the expense of heating by hot water,
(which is nearly half the cost of the whole), may put up
erections of exactly the same character, and heat them by
the common smoke flue, at an expense of from five to
six dollars per lineal foot, in the manner shown by the
plan, fig. 25. It will be seen by this sketch, that two
flues only are used for the three pits, each passing first up
under the bench on the outside houses, is carried along
the end and returned through the middle houses; this
equalizes the temperature in all three, for the outside
houses get only one run of the flue, but it being directly
from the fire, gives about the same heat to the outside
houses as two runs in the middle house, which being at a
greater distance from the fire, are much colder. Three
attached houses, heated thus, should not be over 50 feet
long, in this latitude. Southward they may be 60 feet,
and northward 40 feet. Peculiarities of locality have
much to do with the heating ; in positions particularly

64

GARDENING FOK PROFIT.

J I ft.

Fig. 25.— END SECTION AND GROUND PLAN OF FORCING TITS
HEATED BY FLUE.

FORCING PITS OR GREEN-HOTJSES. 65

sheltered from the northwest, the same amount of flue
will heat 60 feet, quite as easily as in exposed places it
will heat 40. The proper way of constructing the furnace
and flue, is of importance enough to require a description.
The size of the furnace doors should not be less than 1
foot square, the length of the furnace bars, 2 feet ; the
furnace should be arched over, the top of inside of the arch
at least 18 inches from the bars. The flue will always
" draw " better if slightly on the ascent throughout its en-
tire length ; it should be elevated, in all cases, from the
ground, on flags or bricks, so that its heat may be given
out on all sides. The inside measure of the flue should
not be less than 8 x 14 inches ; if tiles can be conveniently
procured, they are best to cover with, but if not, the top
of the flue may be contracted to 6 inches, and covered
with bricks. Care should be taken that no woodwork
connect with the flue at any place. I have known cases
where woodwork has caught fire at 70 feet from the fur-
nace, after the house had been in operation for three years ;
but an unusually strong draft intensified the heat,and the
charred timber ignited and totally destroyed the green-
house and its contents. In the plan and section on the
opposite page, A, is the shed, enclosing the furnaces C C ;
from which pass the flues, D, in the direction shown by
the arrows to the chimnies, L. The benches are not
shown here, but they are arranged as in fig. 23.

CHAPTER XI.

SEEDS AND SEED RAISING.

If there is one thing of paramount importance in
vegetable gardening, it is purity of seed ; and for this
reason every seed that it is practicable for us to raise
for our own use, we grow, no matter what the cost
may be. On one occasion, our indispensable Wake-
field Cabbage seed failed, from some peculiarity in the
season, and there was no alternative but to buy from
the seed stores ; every store in "New York was tried, but
not a seed proved to be of the Wakefield, as we know it.
One old gentleman, who always provided for such emer-
gencies, had a two-year old reserve supply. I offered him
$50 per pound, but could not procure an ounce from him.
He too well understood the state of the case, and planted
his whole ground with this variety, and as he got in ahead
of all by nearly ten days, made a little fortune by the
operation. That was about ten years ago ; but I have
never known a Jersey gardener to be out of this variety
of seed since, and not know where to get it. On another
occasion one pound ot seed, purchased as Silesia Lettuce,
and planted in my forcing frames, proved to be the curled
66

AND SEED RAISING. 67

India Lettuce, useless, except for our hottest summer
weather, and perfectly worthless for forcing. This was
the most serious loss from bad seeds I ever encountered,
amounting to at least $1 000. Last year, quite a number
of my neighbors lost heavily in purchasing seed of the
erect variety of Thyme, instead of the spreading variety;
the crop being all but worthless in consequence. No
wonder then that the market gardeners are so skeptical
about using seeds except those of their own raising, or
from those of their immediate neighbors, in whose knowl-
edge and honesty they have entire confidence.

There is but little new to say of the manner of raising
seeds ; the importance of selecting the purest specimens
of each variety, and of keeping plants that are of the
same families, as far distant apart as the limits of the
ground will admit, is now well understood. It is not
practicable, however, to raise all the seeds wanted in our
vegetable gardens, hi our climate, and consequently we
have to rely on importation for seeds of Brocoli, Cauli-
flower, some varieties of Cabbage, Radishes, Peas, etc.
But the great majority of seeds used are raised here, our
climate being particularly well adapted for maturing them.
In the raising of market vegetables, near large cities, the
usual practice is, for each grower to grow only a few vari-
eties, and these of the sorts most profitable to his location or
Boil. For example, we of New Jersey, in the immediate
vicinity of New York, grow Beets, Cabbages, Cauliflow-
er, Cucumbers, Lettuce, Radishes, and Turnips, as a first
crop ; followed by Celery, Thyme, Sage, Brocoli, and late
Cabbage, as a second crop. Of these varieties we save
all the seeds that it is practicable for us to raise ; while

68 GARDENING FOE PBOFIT.

the more Southern counties of the State, where crops ma-
ture ten or twelve days earlier, but the distance greater
from market, the bulkier and cheaper articles are not
grown, and only the more portable and (when early) valu-
able kinds are raised, of which Tomatoes, Melons, Peas,
Kidney Beans, Early Turnips, and Beets, are the staple
articles. There, also, the growers know well the necessity
of sowing only such seeds as are grown by themselves, or
from sources that they know to be reliable.

Seed growing, as practised by market gardeners, is on
much too small a scale to make it profitable ; in fact, there
is hardly a seed we raise, but costs us much more than what
we could purchase it for from the seedsmen. Seedsmen are
supplied by regular seed growers, who make a special
business of it ; they are located principally in the East-
ern States, and devote many thousands of acres of the
finest lands to the purpose. They are a highly responsi-
ble class of men, who thoroughly understand the business,
and are now successfully competing with the English and
French growers, from whom, only a few years ago, nearly
all our seeds were imported. Just so soon as our seeds-
men are able to get their entire supply from reliable men
here, there will be no necessity for the market gardeners
continuing to be their own seed growers ; they would also
greatly conduce to the increase of their business by taking
the trouble to ascertain the varieties most suitable for
market purposes. Above all, no seed should ever be'sold
without its germinating qualities being thoroughly tested.
Neither should any gardener risk his crop without testing
the seed, unless he has implicit confidence in the source
from whence it has been purchased.

SEEDS AND SEED RAISING. 69

It will be understood, that of ah" annual plants, such as
Beans, Corn, Cucumbers, Egg Plants, Lettuce, Melons,
Peas, Radishes, Tomatoes, etc., the seed is saved the sea-
son of planting, and should be always taken from those
first maturing, if earliness is an object. The seeds of bi-
ennial vegetables, such as Beets, Carrots, Celery, Cab-
bages, Onions, Leeks, Parsley, Parsnips, etc., are raised by
selecting the best specimens from those preserved over
winter, planting them out in good soil on the opening of
spring, at distances such as are recommended for their
growing.

DURATION or GERMINATION IN SEEDS. — There are very
few seeds that will not germinate as freely the second year
as the first, if properly kept in a cool place, and not ex-
posed to either a too drying or too damp an atmosphere.
With the exception of Parsnips, Onions, and Leeks, I would
just as confidently sow seed two years old, as when fresh
gathered ; but there is a limit to the vitality of seeds, va-
rying much in the different species.

Among those, only safe for two years, are : Beans and
Peas, of all kinds ; Peppers, Carrot, Egg Plant, Okra,
Salsify, Thyme, Sage, and Rhubarb.

Those safe for three years : Asparagus, Endive, Lettuce,
Parsley, Spinach, and Radish.

Those safe for four years : Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cab-
bage, Celery, and Turnip.

Those possessing the greatest vitality are: Beet, Cu-
cumber, Melon, Pumpkin, Squash, and Tomato ; the time
ranging from five to ten years.

We often find this knowledge very valuable ; for exam-
ple, in procuring the stock of a seed said to be good, of a

70 GABDENING FOE PROFIT.

variety that does not seed the season it is marketable,
such as Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Celery, we pro-
cure enough to last at least two seasons ; the first season
only a little is sown, to test the merit of the variety, (for
we are never incautious enough to risk a full crop with one
experiment); if it proves valuable, we have enough in re-
serve to sow for a full crop, knowing that it is sure to
germinate. This was particularly the case with our New
Dwarf Celery ; on the recommendation of a friend I im-
ported ten pounds of the seed, but doubtful of how it
would suit our market, only as much was sown as would
furnish a few hundred plants. These showed so much
superiority, in all respects, to the tall varieties that we had
been growing, that the following season I put in half my
crop with the dwarf seed. The thing was entirely new
in our market, and so much superior, that it sold for prices
that would seem incredible. My ten Ib. bag was not half
exhausted, and the next season I planted my whole crop,
fourteen acres, containing nearly half a million roots, and
made one of the best hits I ever made in gardening. But
by this time my neighbors began to take an unusual in-
terest in my Celery crop, and I could monopolize the va-
riety no longer. New Yorkers will this season appreciate
Celery more than ever before, and in consequence far more
will be sold, for there is as marked a difference in the
flavor of this variety and the coarse growing kinds, as be-
tween a Bartlett and a Choke pear.

CHAPTER XII.

HOW, WHEN, AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS,

As seed sowing is the starting point of cropping, a
thorough knowledge of the conditions necessary for the
germination of the different varieties, will go far towards
putting the tyro in gardening well on the way to success.
The very general want of knowledge in this matter is too
often the cause of much undeserved censure upon the
seedsman, for in nine cases out of ten the failure is not
with the seeds, but results from the time or manner of
planting. When the owner of a garden sends his order for
seeds to the seedsman, it is generally a complete list of all
he wants for the season. They are received, and the in-
teresting operation of sowing is begun: first in a hot
bed, if he has one, often as early as the first week in Feb
ruary, (a month too soon by the way), and in go indis
criininately, at the same date, and under the same sash
his seeds of Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and Egg Plant,
Peppers and Tomatoes. Yet even in the waning heat of
this early hot-bed, where a thermometer would possibly
not indicate more than fifty degrees, he finds in a week or so
71

72 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

his Cabbage, Lettuce, and Cauliflower "coming through"
nicely, but as yet no Egg Plants, Peppers, or Tomatoes. He
impatiently waits another week, makes an examination, and
discovers that instead of his Tomatoes and Egg Plants be-
ginning to vegetate, they are commencing to rot. It is now
plain to him that he has been cheated ; he has been sold old
seed, and if he does nothing worse, he for ever after looks
upon the seedsman he has patronized as a venial wretch,
destitute of principle and honesty. But he must have
Tomatoes, Peppers, and Egg Plants, and he buys again,
from another seedsman, warranted honest. He renews his
hot-bed, it is now a month later, and a bright March sun,
with milder nights, gives him the proper temperature in
his hot-bed — 70 or 80°, and his eyes are at last gladdened
by the sprouting of the troublesome seed. April comes
with warm sunshine, inviting him to begin to " make gar-
den " outside. He has yet the balance of the original lot of
seeds that he bought in February. But as he is still entire-
ly befogged about the cause of his failure in the first hot-
bed, he begins his open ground operations with little confi-
dence in his seeds, but as he has got them, they may as well
be tried. And again he sows in the same day his Peas and
Lima Beans, Radishes and Pumpkins, Onions and Sweet
Corn. Hardy and tender get the same treatment. The re-
sult must of necessity be the same as it was in the hot-bed
the hardy seeds duly vegetate, while the tender are of
course rotted. This time he is not surprised, for he is already
convinced that seedsman No. 1 is a rascal, and only won-
ders how any of his seeds grew at all, so he again orders
from seedsman No. 2 for the articles that have failed.
Her*1 circumstances continue to favor the latter, for by

HOW, WHEN, AND WHEBE TO SOW 'SEEDS.

73

this time the season has advanced in its temperature and
the seeds duly vegetate. Every farmer knows that, in
this latitude, he can sow Oats or Wheat in March or April,
but that if he sows his Corn or Pumpkins at the same time,
they will perish ; this he knows, but he may not know
that what is true of the crops of the farm, is equally true
of the garden. Hence the importance of a knowledge of
the season when to sow vegetable seeds, or set out plants.
The temperature best fitted for the germination of seeds
of the leading kinds, will be best understood by the tabu-
lar form given below.

Vegetable seeds that may be sown,

Vegetable seeds that may be sown in

in this latitude, from ihe middle of

the open ground, in this latitude, from

March to the end of April. Ther-

the middle of May to the middle of

mometer in the shade averaging 45

June. Thermometer in the shade av-

Beet. Lettuce.

eraging 60 degrees.
Lima Beans. Water Melon.

Carrot. Parsley.

Bush Beans. Squash.

Cress. Parsnip.

Cranberrry Pumpkin.

Celery. Ouions.

Pole Beans. Tomato.

Cabbage. Peas.

Scarlet Run- Nasturtium.

Cauliflower. Radish.

ner Beans. Okra.

Endive. Turnip.

Sweet Cora. Cucumber.

Kale. Spinach.

Musk Melon.

It will be understood that these dates refer only to the
latitude of New York, farther South, operations should be
begun earlier, — farther North, later. So much for the time
of sowing ; I will now refer to suitable soil and the man
ner of sowing.

THE CHOICE OF SOIL, when choice can be made, is of

great importance, the best being a light soil, composed

of leaf mold, sand, and loam; the next substitute for

leaf mold being well decayed stable manure, or better

4

74 * GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

yet, decayed refuse hops from the breweries, in short,
anything of this nature that will tend to lighten the
soil, the point to be avoided being a weight of soil,
either from the nature or quantity of it. The nature of
the soil is not of so much importance for the germinating
of large vigorous seeds, as Peas, Beets, Beans, Corn, etc.
But with the delicate, slow sprouting sorts, as Celery.
Parsnip, Egg Plant, or Peppers, it is of much importance
Seeds of nearly every garden vegetable should be sown ir,
rows; the distance apart, according to the variety, and th«
depth proportioned to the size of the seed. No better infor
mation can be given in this matter, than the old rule of
covering the seed with about its thickness of soil, but thi»
should always be followed up by having the soil pressed
closely down. In our market gardens here, we invariably
have the ground rolled after sowing, or in frames or hot-
beds, where the roller cannot be used, we pat the soil even-
ly down with a spade after sowing. This may not be of
so much consequence in early spring, when the atmosphere
is moist, but as the season advances, it is of great im-
portance. I have seen many acres of Carrots and Parsnips
lost for want of this simple attention ; the covering of the
seeds being loose, the heated air penetrates through, dry-
ing the seeds to shriveling, so that they never can vege-
tate. My farmer readers, no doubt, have had plenty of
similar experiences with Turnips, where they have been
sown broadcast without rolling. Another advantage in
rolling after seed sowing is, that it leaves the surface
smooth and level, thereby lessening greatly the labor of
hoeing. Instead of adopting the questionable practice of
steeping seeds, preparatory to sowing in dry hot weather,

HOW, WHEN, AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 75

we prefer first to thoroughly saturate the bed with water,
and after it has dried enough, so that it can be raked with-
out clogging, sow the seed. It i*» much better to do this
than water after the seed has been sown, as it has a ten-
dency in most soils to bake the surface.

SOWING IN HOT-BEDS. — It would lengthen this chapter
too much to give extended directions for sowing seeds hi
hot-beds. I will briefly say, that after the hot-bed has
been formed — say by the first week in March, let soil, of
the kind recommended, be placed on it six inches deep, in-
to which plunge a thermometer three or four inches, and
when the temperature recedes to 75 degrees or 80 degrees,
you may then sow, giving air in mild weather as soon as
the seeds begin to vegetate, covering up warmly at night
by mats, straw, or hay. But many that may read this
never saw a hot-bed, and are perhaps never likely to have
one : to such I would say that there is an excellent substi-
tute on hand in most dwellings, in the kitchen or base-
ment windows, facing South or East, inside of which is a
temperature usually not far from that required for the
vegetation of seeds, and where plants from seeds of the
early vegetables, or tender plants for the flower border, may
be raised nearly as well, and with far less attention, than in
a hot-bed. Instead of hot-beds, we use our green-houses
for the purpose, using shallow boxes in which we sow the
seed ; these are made from the common soap box, cut in
three pieces, the top and bottom forming two, and the
middle piece, bottomed, making the third ; these form
cheap, convenient boxes. Fill these nearly full with the
soil recommended, and after sowing, press nicely down
level, and make the surface soil moderately firm ; keep

76 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

moist, in a temperature in the window of from 60 to 70
degrees, and your little trouble will soon be rewarded.

In this way seeds should be sown thickly, and after they
have made the first rough leaf, should be again planted
out into the same kind of box, from one to four inches
apart, according to the kind, and placed in the window to
receive similar treatment as the seeds ; but as the season
advances, in mild days they should be set out of doors,
care being taken that they are brought in at night, and
that the soil in the boxes is never allowed to get dry.

I know what is usually the first thing the novice in gar-
dening does if he gets any choice seed or favorite cutting ;
he has some how got the belief that there is some hidden
virtue in a flower pot, and he accordingly sows his seed
or plants his cutting in a pot, but in nine cases out of ten
they are destroyed, or partially so, by the continued dry-
ing of the soil in the porous flower pot. If early in the
season, let delicate seeds be sown in the kitchen or sitting
room window, in the boxes as recommended, or if late, in
the open boi-der; but seeds should never be sown in pots,
as even in experienced hands they are much more trouble-
some and uncertain than boxes.

ROTATION OF CROPS. — Cultivators of the most limited
experience soon discover that the same kind of crop can-
not be grown on the same ground for many years in suc-
cession, without deterioration. A great many theories
have been advanced assigning causes for this, but they are
as yet far from satisfactory, and as this is not a book of
theory but of practice, I will not further allude to them.
The following general rules will be found useful as a
guide : —

HOW, WHKN, AND WHEKE TO SOW SEEDS. tl

1st. Plants, of the same family, should not be planted to
succeed each other.

2d. Plants, which occupy the ground for a number of
years, such as Rhubarb and Asparagus, should be succeeded
by annual plants.

3d. Crops, grown for heads, such as Cauliflower, Cabbage,
etc., should be succeeded by crops grown for their bulbs or
roots.

It is hardly practicable to vary crops according to any set
rule, the demand in different localities for certain articles
being greater than in others. Generally variety enough is
demanded to allow of sufficient rotation. Our system of
heavy manuring, deep culture, and taking two crops from
the ground each season, seems to do away in a great meas-
ure with the necessity for systematic rotation, which would
often be found to be very inconvenient. The crops of all
others, that we find most benefitted by change are, the
Cabbage tribe, together with the allied Turnip, Radish, etc.,
while on the other hand we have grown Onions successively
on the same ground for ten years — the last crop just as
good as the first ; but as a rule of safety, vary whenever you
can.

QUANTITY OP SEEDS PER ACRE. — The quantities given
below are somewhat higher in some kinds than the usual
estimates, our experience showing us that in weak vegetat-
ing seeds, such as Parsnips, Carrots, etc., it requires num-
bers, particularly on stiff soils, to force through plants
enough to form a crop ; more seed is required when sown
during the dry hot months of summer, than if sown in the
cooler and moist seasons of spring and fall, hence quantities
are regulated accordingly.

78 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

QUANTITY OF GARDEN SEEDS PER ACRE.

About.

Beans, Dwarf Kidney in drills 1% bushels.

Beans, Pole in hills - 12 quarts.

Beets in drills. . .8 pounds or 8 quarts.

Carrot in drills 5 pounds.

Corn, (shelled) in hills 2 quarts.

Cucumbers in hills 1 pound.

Melon, (Musk) in hills 1 pound.

Melon, (Water) in hills 1% pounds.

Onions, (for bulbs) in drills 6 pounds.

Ouious, (for sets) in drills 30 pounds.

Onion sets, (small) in drills 10 bushels.

Potatoes, (cut tubers) in drills 10 bushels.

Parsnips in drills 8 pounds.

Peas in drills 1% bushels.

Radish in drills 5 pounds.

Radish .'...broadcast 10 pounds.

Spinach in drills 10 pounds.

Salsify in drills 10 pounds.

Squash in hills 1 pound.

Turnip in drills 2 pounds.

Turnip broadcast 4 pounds.

QUANTITY OF SEEDS REQUIRED FOR A GIVEN NUMBER OF PLANTS.

About.

Asparagus, 1 oz 500 plants

Cabbage, 1 oz 2000 "

Cauliflower, 1 oz 2000 "

Celery, 1 oz 3000 "

Leek, 1 oz 1500 "

Endive, 1 oz 3000 "

Egg Plant, 1 oz 1000 "

About.

Pepper, 1 oz 1000 planta

Tomato, 1 oz 1500 "

Thyme, 1 oz 5000 "

Sage, 1 oz 1500 "

Savory, 1 oz 2000 "

Marjoram, 1 oz 1500 "

Rhubarb, 1 oz 500 "

Lettuce, 1 oz 3000 '

FARM SEEDS PBR ACRE.

About.

Wheat, broadcast 1% bushels.

Barley, " 2 to 3 "

Oats, " ... 2 to 3 "

HOW, WHEN", AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS.

79

Buckwheat, broadcast 1 bushel.

Indian Corn, (for soiling) 3 "

Hemp IX "

Flax 1% "

Pea* 3 "

Vetches 3 »

Chinese Sugar Cane 12 quarts.

Broom Cora 10 "

White Clover, (alone) 15 pounds.

Red Clover, (alone) . 20 "

Lucerne, (in drills) , 15 "

Blue Grass, (alone) 8 bushels.

Rye Grass, (alone) 2 "

Orchard Grass, (alone) .- 3 "

Timothy Grass, (alone) ^ "

Red Top Grass 3 "

MixedLawn Grass 3 "

Clover, \ together r .*. 10 pounds Clover.

Timothy, V for ) ^ bushel Timothy.

Red Top,) one acre ( 1 bushel Red Top.

THE NUMBER OF PLANTS, TREKS, ETC., REQUIRED TO SET AN ACRE.

Distance, Number. Distance. Number.

1 ft. by 1 ft 43,560 6 ft. by 6 ft 1,210

1^ ft. by 1^ ft 19,360 9 ft. by 9 ft 537

2ft. by 2 ft 10,890 12 ft. by 12 ft 302

2^ft.by2^ft 6,970 15 ft. by 15 ft 194

3 ft. by 1 ft 14,520 18 ft. by 18 ft 134

3 ft. by 2 ft 7,260 20 ft. by 20 ft 103

3ft. by 3 ft 4,840 25 ft. by 25 ft 70

4ft. by4ft 2,722 30 ft. by 30 ft 40

5ft.by5ft 1,742 40 ft. by 40 ft 87

CHAPTEK XIII.

TRANSPLANTING.

TBANSPLAOTING is an operation of great importance;
the condition of the plant, the state of the soil, and of
the atmosphere, have much to do with its success, inde-
pendently of the simple mechanical operation. It is not
very easy to instruct the uninitiated as to what the proper
condition of the plant should be ; experience in this being,
as in everything else, the best teacher. Attention to keep-
ing the seed-bed clear of weeds, the " topping " of plants
when they get too tall, and careful digging up of them
so as to preserve the root fibres, will all greatly assist.
We cannot always get the soil in the proper condition
of moisture to receive plants at the time transplanting
should be performed, but to make up for the want of mois-
ture, planting should be delayed always until late in the
afternoon, unless in cloudy weather. It is also of great
importance that the ground be freshly plowed; the moist
soil thus brought to the surface will induce the formation
of root fibres in one night, after which the plants are
comparatively safe ; but if they be allowed to wilt before
80

TRANSPLANTING. 81

the new roots begin to be emitted, and eontirced dry
weather ensues, then nothing will save them but having
recourse to watering, which should always be avoided if
possible. In planting, each man is provided with a boy, who
carries the plants in a basket, and whose duty is to drop
the plant on the line at the proper distance before the
planter. In planting, a hole is made by the dibber about
the depth of the root ; the plant being inserted, the soil is
then pressed close to the root, the hole thus made by the
displacement of the soil is again filled up by one stroke of
the dibber. In dry weather we still further firm the plant,
by each planter returning on his row, and treading the soil
around plants firmly with the feet. I am thus particular
in describing a simple matter, knowing well, that millions
of plants are annually lost by inattention to this firming of
the soil. The same rule is applicable to transplanting of
all kinds, trees, shrubs, or vegetables. Instead of " pud-
dling " the roots in mud, we prefer to keep the plants
dripping wet during the whole time of planting, so that
each plant, as it is put in the soil, puddles itself by the
particles of soil adhering to the wet root. Besides, the
leaves of the plant, being wet, will for some time resist
the action of the dry air.

CHAPTER XIV.

PACKING OF VEGETABLES FOR SHIPPING.

This is a matter for which it is not very easy to give
directions, as the distance, season, and articles to be packed
will greatly determine the manner in which it is to be
done ; but a few general directions may assist the inex-
perienced.

The mode of packing during spring and summer is al-
most entirely the reverse of that practiced during autumn
or winter, for the reason that, when the temperature is
high, provision must be made in the package for the ad-
mission of air to prevent the articles from heating ; while
in cold weather, when there is but little danger from heat-
ing, but more to be apprehended from frost, close packages
must be used accordingly.

As early vegetables are always shipped from a warm
climate to a colder one, at a season which, of course, must
be warm to mature them, open work baskets or slatted
boxes must be used. If barrels are used, care must be
taken that openings be made plentifully in the sides, so
that air may be admitted. For distances requiring a delay
82

PACKING OFVEGETABLES FOE SHIPPING. 83

of more than forty eight hours in the transit, for most ar-
ticles, barrels are too large ; boxes or baskets, one-fourth
the capacity of a flour barrel, being safer. The articles
shipped in this manner from southern ports to northern
markets, are: Asparagus, Beans, Cucumbers, Lettuce,
Melons, Peas, Radishes, Tomatoes, and other summer
crops. Bulky articles, such as Cabbages, Beets, Sweet
Corn, Water Melons, Turnips, are often shipped loose on the
decks of steamers, sloops, etc. ; but even then, care must
be taken that the heaps are not too large, else they may
be injured by heating. The judgment of the shipper must
be exercised in respect to the article to be shipped. Articles
that lay close, will require to be shipped in smaller pack-
ages than those that lie so loosely that the air can pass
among them ; for example, Melons may be safely packed
in a barrel, while, if Tomatoes were so packed, they would
be utterly destroyed.

The winter or fall shipping of vegetables is the reverse
of the summer, for then we send from the North to the
South, our colder and damper atmosphere being more
congenial to the growth of late crops. Close packages
are now used, but still not too large ; barrels being best
suited to such articles as Beets, Carrots, Celery, Onions,
Parsnips, Potatoes, or Turnips, while Cabbages and Cauli-
flowers may be shipped in crates or in bulks.

CHAPTER XV.

PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES IN WINTER.

Our manner of preserving vegetable roots in winter is,
I think, peculiar to this district, and is very simple and
effective.

After taking up such crops as Beets, Carrots, Horse-
radish, Parsnips, Turnips, Potatoes, etc., in fall, they are
put in temporary oblong heaps, on the surface of the
ground on which they have been growing, and covered up
with 5 or 6 inches of soil, which will keep off such slight
frosts as are likely to occur until time can be spared to
put them in permanent winter quarters ; this is done in
this section usually during the first part of December, in
the following manner : A piece of ground as dry as pos-
sible is chosen ; if not naturally dry, provision must be
made to carry off the, water, lower than the bottom of the
pit. The pit is dug out from three to four feet deep,
about six feet wide, and of the length required ; the roots
are then packed in in sections of about two feet wide
across the pit, and only to the hight of the ground level.
Between the sections, a space of half a foot is left, which
84

PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES IN WINTER. 85

is filled up with the soil level to the top ; this leaves the
pit filled up two feet wide in roots, and half a foot of soil,
and so on until the whole is finished. The advantage of
this plan is, that it is merely a series of small pits, holding
from three to five barrels of roots, which can be taken out
for market without exposing the next section, as it is
closed off by the six inches of soil between. Also, that
we find that roots of all kinds keep safer when in small
bulk, than when large numbers are thrown into one pit
together. In covering, the top is rounded so as to throw
off the water, with a layer of from 18 inches to 2 feet of
soil. This way of preserving roots, with perhaps the ex-
ception of Potatoes, is much preferable to keeping them
in a cellar or root house, as they not only keep fresher, re-
taining more of their natural flavor and color, but far
fewer of- them are lost by decay than when exposed to
the air and varying temperature of a cellar. Unmatured
heads of Cauliflower, or Broccoli, however, are best matur-
ed in a light cellar or cold frame, by being planted in close
together ; in this way, good heads may be had to Janu-
ary. Cabbages are preserved very simply ; they are left
out as late as they can be pulled up by the roots, in this
section about the end of November, they are then pulled
up and turned upside down — the roots up, the heads
packed close together, in beds six feet wide, with six feet
alleys between, care being taken to have the ground lev-
elled where the cabbages are placed, so that they pack
nicely. They are left in this way for two or three weeks,
or as long as the ground can be dug between the alleys,
the soil from which is thrown in on the beds of Cabbage,
so that, when finished, they have a covering of four or six

86 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

inches of soil. This is not enough to cover the root how-
ever, which is left partly exposed, but this is in no way
injurious. Some prefer to cover them up at once by plow-
ing a furrow, shoveling it out wide enough to receive the
heads of the Cabbages, then turning the soil in on tho
heads, and so continuing until beds of six or eight feet are
thus formed. This plan is rather more expeditious than
the former, but it has the disadvantage of compelling
them to be covered up at once by soil, while the other plan
delays it two or three weeks later, and it is of the utmost
importance in preserving vegetables that the operation
(particularly the final covering) be delayed as late in the
season as frost will permit. Generally more are lost by be-
ginning too soon than delaying too late. Onions, we find,
are best preserved in a barn or stable loft, in layers of
from 8 to 10 inches deep, covered up with about a foot of
hay or straw on the approach of severe frosts. The great
points to be attained are a low temperature and a dry at-
mosphere ; they will bear 20 degrees of frost without in-
jury, provided they are not moved while frozen, but they
will not stand a reduction of temperature much lower than
this without injury.

CHAPTER XVI.

INSECTS.

"We have but little trouble with insects in our highly
cultivated grounds ; what with continued moving of the
soil by plowing and harrowing every foot, from three to
four times each season, incessant hoeing, and the digging
up of the crops, we give these pests but little chance for a
foot-hold. We are, however, occasionally troubled with
Aphides, the " Green-fly," in our forcing houses of Let-
tuce. A complete remedy for this trouble, in its early
stages, is smoke from burning tobacco stems ; or tobacco
stems steeped in water to give it about the color of strong
tea, and applied with a syringe, will thoroughly destroy
them. "Jumping Jack," or the Turnip-fly, occasions
some trouble with late sowings of Cabbages, Turnips,
and Radishes, but we find an excellent preventive in dust-
ing lime over the beds, immediately the seeds begin to
germinate. It is of the utmost importance to use preven-
tives in the case of insects, for if once they get a lodge
ment, it is almost useless to attempt their destruction.
The striped Cucumber-bug, which, with us, attacks late
sowings only, we have found to yield readily to a few ap-
plications of bone-dust, which serves the double purpose
of disturbing the insect and encouraging the growth of
87

88 GARDENING FOB PROFIT.

the crop. But our most formidable enemy of the insect
tribe is that which attacks the roots of the Cabbage fam-
ily, causing the destructive disease known as the " club-
root." There is a general misconception of the cause of
this disease ; happily our peculiar location here, gives me
the means, I believe, of thoroughly disproving some of
these absurd dogmas, that club-root is caused by " hog
manure," " heavy soil," " light soil," etc. I do not doubt
that it has appeared thousands of times with just
such conditions ; yet, within three miles from the City
Hall of New York, I can show to-day, on the classic
shores of Communipaw, scores of acres that have been
just so manured, both light soils and heavy soils, that
have grown Cabbages for twenty consecutive years, and
yet, the first appearance of club-root is yet to be seen.
On the other hand, I can show on soils, not more than a
mile distant from those on the Communipaw shore, where
the ground is cultivated in the very best possible manner,
and where every variety of manure has been tried, and
yet it is impossible to get a crop of Cauliflower or Cabbage
clear from club-root for two years in succession. Now, the
reason of the immunity from the pest on the one variety
of the soil, and not on the other, does not, to us, admit of
the slightest particle of doubt. On the shore side, and
for nearly a mile inland, there are regular deposits of oys-
ter shell, mixed with the soil, almost as we find pebbles in a
gravelly soil ; now, our theory is, that the insect which
occasions the club-root, cannot exist in contact with the
lime, which of course is present in large amount in a soil,
containing such abundance of oyster shell. Reasoning
from this, we have endeavored to bring up soils deficient in

89

shell, by heavy dressings of lime ; this answered, however,
only temporarily, and we found it too expensive to con-
tinue it. The increasing demands for manures in the
vicinity of New York, has rendered them of late years
scarce and high in price, so that we were necessitated to
begin the use of guano and other concentrated manures,
and as this was rather new with us in our market gardens,
we have had the pleasure of some very interesting experi-
ments. Last season, in my grounds at Jersey City, where
we have never been able to get two crops of Cabbages
successively, without having them injured by club-root, my
foreman suggested to me to experiment with a bed, of about
half an acre, to be planted with early Wakefield Cabbage.
One-half of this he proposed to manure at the rate of
75 tons per acre with stable manure, the other half with
flour of bone, at the rate of 2000 pounds per acre ; this
was accordingly done in the usual way, by sowing the
bone-dust on the ground after plowing, and then thoroughly
harrowing in. During the month of May we could see no
perceptible difference in the bed ; but just as soon as our
first hot days in June came, down wilted the portion that
had been dressed with stable manure, showing a well-de-
fined line the whole length of the bed, and, on pulling the
plants up, we found that our enemy was at work, while in
that portion that had been dressed by the bone-dust, not
a wilted plant could be seen, but, on the contrary, the
crop had most unusual vigor. This experiment has been
to me one of the most satisfactory I ever tried ; it still
further proves, that this destructive insect cannot exist to
an injurious extent in a soil impregnated with lime, and also
proves, that we have a most effective remedy in this valu-

90 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

able and portable manure. The experiment was, however,
to me rather a costly one ; our past experience told us
that there was no reason to expect that the portion, on
which the stable manure was used, would not be attacked
by club-root, as it had borne a crop of Cabbage the pre-
vious year, and nearly twenty years' working of that soil
had shown that this crop could never be grown succes-
sively two years ; but experiments, to be satisfactory, must
be done on a scale of some magnitude, and although I lost
some $200 by the difference in the crop, I believe it to
have been a profitable investment.

I have incidentally stated that the Cabbage crop, treated
in the usual manner, can only be grown every alternate
year, the reason of which we infer to be, that the insect
is harmless to the plant when in the perfect state the first
season, but that it is attracted by the plant, deposits its
eggs in the soil, and that in the larva condition in which
it appears the second year, it attacks the root. Whether
this crude theory is correct or not, I will not presume to
say, but if it is not, how can we account for the fact of our
being able to grow this plant, free from its ravages every
alternate year, while, if we attempt to do so successively
without the use of lime, it is certain to be attacked?

All authorities on gardening, that I have had access to,
seem to be unaware of the fact that clufe-root is never seen
in soils impregnated with shells. This variety of soil is
not common. I have never seen it anywhere except here,
and as I have before said, this peculiarity of location most
fortunately gives a certain clue to the facts, and directly
points out the remedy, which. I think, we have found to
be in the copious use of bone-dust as manure.

CHAPTER XVII.

VEGETABLES, THEIR VARIETIES AND CUL-
TIVATION.

In describing the modes of cultivating the different va-
rieties of vegetables, I shall notice at length only those
of the most importance, and the most profitable for market
purposes, while for those of less value as market crops, the
directions for culture will be such as are adapted to private
gardens only.

A limited number of kinds will be described, and such
only as our experience has shown to possess the greatest
earliness and productiveness. Nothing is more perplexing
to the beginner, than to be bewildered by descriptions of,
perhaps twenty, so-called varieties of a vegetable, that per-
haps, in reality, does not embrace four distinct kinds. For
exam pie, in early Cabbages, there are some hundred or more
varieties described ; yet we find, after having experi-
mented with some scores of kinds in our time, there is
one vaiiety more profitable to grow than any other, viz.
the Jersey Wakefield, which is grown in this locality to
91

92 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

the exclusion of all others. However, some kinds are
found to do better in some localities than in others, hence,
as in fruits, no particular variety should be claimed to be
universally the best.

ASPARAGUS.— (Asparagus

Asparagus being a hardy perennial plant, that may be
grown on the same ground for twenty years without re-
newal, special care is required in forming the beds in
which it is to grow. This is done sometimes by trench-
ing to the depth of two or three feet, mixing each layer
of soil, as turned over, with two or three inches of well
rotted manure ; but for market purposes, on a large scale,
trenching is seldom resorted to ; deep and thorough pul-
verizing by the plow and subsoiler serving instead. The
soil best suited for Asparagus is a deep and rather sandy
loam, such as is often to be found on the borders of mead-
ows or on the margins of lakes — land formed by the wash-
ings of the higher grounds, and known as alluvial.

VARIETIES. — There is considerable difference of opinion
concerning varieties. Some contending that there are five
or six, and others that there is only one variety, which is
sometimes modified by differences of soil or climate. In
this latter opinion we entirely coincide, believing that the
Asparagus officinalis of our gardens is confined to only
one variety, and that the so-called " Giant " can be made
gigantic or otherwise, just as we will it, and that the " pur-
ple top " variety will become a " green top " whenever the
composition of the soil is not of the kind to develop the
purple, and vice versa. All practical gardeners know how
differently soil and climate change the appearance of tbo

VEGETABLES — ASPARAGUS. 93

same variety. Seeds of Cabbage, taken fiom the same
bag and sown at the same time, but planted out in soils
of light sandy loam, heavy clayey loam, and peat or leaf-
mold, will show such marked differences when at matu-
rity, as easily to be pronounced distinct sorts. This, no
doubt, is the reason why the multitude of varieties, of all
vegetables, when planted side by side to test them, are so
wonderfully reduced in number.

PROPAGATION. — Asparagus is propagated by seed which
is sown in spring, as soon as the soil will admit of working,
which should be prepared, by being thoroughly pul-
verized, and enriched with well-rotted manure. The seed
is sown in rows 1 foot apart, and if kept carefully hoed,
and clear from weeds, the plants will be in fine condition to
plant out the succeeding spring. Strict attention to thia
will save a year in time ; for if the seed bed has been neg
lected, it will take two years to get the plants as large as
they would be in one year, if they had been properly cared
for. In consequence of this very common neglect of
proper cultivation of the seed bed, it is an almost uni-
versal impression that the plants must be two or three
years old before planting. This is undoubtedly an error,
for almost all large growers for market purposes, in the
neighborhood of New York, invariably plant one-year old
plants, and count on marketing a crop the third spring
from the time of sowing. One pound of seed will pro-
duce about 3000 plants ; and to plant an acre of Asparagus
requires from 15,000 to 20,000 plants.

PLANTING. — The bed being prepared as previously de-
scribed, planting may be done any time for six or eight
weeks from the opening of spring ; the plant, from its pecu-

94 GARDENING FOE PBOFIT.

liar succulent roots, is less susceptable of injury from late
planting than most other vegetables, although at the same
time delay should not occur, unless unavoidable, as the
sooner it is planted after the ground is in working order,
the better will be the result. When there is plenty of ground,
and the crop is to be extensively grown, perhaps the
best mode of planting is in rows 3 feet apart, the plants
9 inches apart in the rows. For private use, or for market-
ing on a small scale, beds should be formed 5 feet wide,
with three rows planted in each; one in the middle,
and one on each side, a foot from the edge ; the distance
of the plants in the rows, 9 inches; the alleys between
the beds should be 2 feet wide. In planting, a line is set
and a cut made, a little slanting, to the depth of 6 or 8
inches, according to the size of the plants. The plants
are then laid against the side of the trench, at the distance
already named — 9 inches — care being taken to properly
spread the roots. The crown or top of the plant should
be covered about 2 inches. In a week or so after plant-
ing, the beds should be touched over lightly with a sharp
steel rake, which will destroy the germinating weeds. The
raking had better be continued at intervals of a week or
so, until the plants start to grow, when the hoe may be
applied between the rows and alleys ; the weeds that come
up close to the plant, must of necessity be pulled out by
the hand.

THE APPLICATION OF SALT to Asparagus as a top-
dressing, is of great benefit in inland districts, out of the
range of a saline atmosphere ; but is of little or no benefit
in the vicinity of salt water. When used, it should be
applied in spring only, at the r?tc of from 2 to 3 Ibs. per

VEGETABLES — ASPARAGUS. 95

square yard, strown on the surface ; the rains will dissolve
it and wash it down to the roots. Besides its beneficial
effects upon the plant, it is destructive to the wire worm,
and other insects that are often troublesome to the As-
paragus.

We have found Asparagus beds very profitably benefit-
ed by the application of superphosphate of lime, as a
spring top-dressing, applied at the rate of 500 Ibs. per
acre, sown on the beds and hoed in. Experiments with
this, on alternate rows, showed a difference of nearly 1 foot
in hight of the stalk, in favor of the rows to which the
superphosphate had been applied, over those which had
none ; and a difference of nearly double the product when
the crop was cut in the succeeding spring.

The fall treatment of the Asparagus beds varies with
the locality ; in cold regions, where, if left unprotected,
the frost would penetrate below the roots, a covering of 3
or 4 inches of rough manure or leaves is necessary. Al-
though an entirely hardy plant, it will start earlier, and
with greater vigor in spring, if the root has not been sub-
jected to severe freezing. In milder sections, no such
precaution is necessary ; all that need be done is to clear
off the stems as soon as they are withered in the fall, and
clean the beds preparatory to giving a dressing of 2 or 3
inches of manure, which had better not be applied until
spring. We believe the common practice of top-dressing
Asparagus beds in fall to be a very wasteful one, in dis-
tricts where it is not necessary to provide against severe
freezing, for, as the plant is then dormant, the juices of
the manure are either evaporated, or else washed down
by rains below the roots of the plant. I remember, many

96 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

years ago, having three small Asparagus beds under ray
charge, on one of which I applied in December 25 Ibs. of
Peruvian guano, dissolved in fifty gallons of water; in
April the same application was made to another bed, and
the other was left without anything. There was no per-
ceptible difference between that to which the liquid had
been applied in December and that to which none had
been given, but on that which received it in April, nearly
double the weight of crop was produced. Since then, all
our practice, corroborated by direct experiment, has con-
vinced me beyond all doubt, that manures, either liquid or
solid, organic or inorganic, are unprofitably employed
when applied to plants in the dormant state.

In gathering the crop, caution must be used not to in-
jure the plants by continued cutting ; for it must be borne
in mind, that to reproduce annually its crop of shoots in
spring, something must be left to grow to encourage the
formation of fresh roots. In our market gardens, the
practice is to cut off all the shoots as they are ready, un-
til the middle of May or 1st of June, when the shoots be-
gin to show signs of weakness ; then all is left to grow
and no more cut. In its preparation for market, the
shoots are tied up in round bunches, containing from
twenty to thirty shoots in each. The tying material is
usually bass-matting, as that is soft and has the necessary
strength. It requires a little practice to do the " bunch
ing" rapidly, and it should be the object of the beginne
to strive to attain -this, as it is light work, and continued
slowness in the operation will make a serious gap in the
profits.

This crop is subject to so many conditions, that an aver-

VEGETA BLES — ASPARAGUS.

9?

age value can hardly be given ; some of our growers here
claim that it pays an annual clear profit of $1000 per acre,
while others say that it does not pay them over $200 per
acre. During a period of ten years, counting from the
time the bed was planted, it is safe to say that, in this
vicinity, the average profits per acre will be $400. It is a
crop that never fails to sell, is one that is always produc-
tive if it has been properly treated, and as it has a great
value for its weight — a ton often being worth from $200
to $400 — it is, in all respects, a valuable crop for the mar-
ket gardener.

In some localities, especially on Long Island, the As-
paragus-beetle has injured the crop to such an extent as
to cause whole plantations to be plow-
ed under. When the beetle first ap-
pears, it may be controlled ; but if
allowed to become established, the
task is hopeless. The engraving, (fig.
26), shows the insect in its different
stages. The lower figure is a part of
a branch with the small black eggs
attached by their ends ; these are
given of the natural size, and magni-
fied. The larva, or caterpillar, as
well as the perfect beetle, are shown

at the toP of the engraving 5 the nat~
ural size of these is indicated by the
lines drawn at the side. Whenever the eggs or the larvae
appear, cut and burn the plants, as long as any traces of
the insect are to be seen ; this must be done if it destroys
every vestige of vegetation.
5

Fig. 28.-ASFAKAGU3
BEETLE.

GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

ARTICHOKE.— (Oynara Scolymus.)

Although a vegetable as yet rarely seen in our markets,
it is extensively used in Europe, particularly in France.
The portion of the plant most used, is the undeveloped
flower-head, or rather those portions of the flower-head
called the scales of the involucre. They are sometimes

boiled, and used as a sal-
ad, Avith vinegar, oil, and
salt ; but more generally
in the raw state.

Another use of the
Artichoke is to blanch it,
by tying the young side
shoots moderately close
together, as we tie En-
dive, filling in between
with soil to exclude the
air until the shoots are
blanched ; this is what is
known as " Artichoke
Salad," or "Artichoke
Chard," it is used in
this state in various
forms of cookery, besides
being used as a salad.
It is a vegetable of easy culture, originally propagated
from seeds, until a stock is secured, after which it is read-
ily increased by suckers from the root. These are planted
out in April or May, in rows from 3 to 4 feet apart, and 2
feet between the plants, care being taken that the plants
are well firmed in planting, and if the weather i* drr,

. 27. — GREEN GLOBE ARTICHOKE.

VEGETABLES ARTICHOKE.

they must be freely watered until they start to grow.
The plantation, the first season, will only give a partial
crop; but, as it is a perennial plant, after being once
planted, the same bed will remain hi bearing for years.
The plant may be said to be entirely hardy south of
Mason and Dixon's Line, but north of that, it requires to
be protected by covering between the plants, with 6 or 8
inches of leaves or coarse manure.

THE VARIETIES are the Green Globe, and Common
Green, differing but little, except in the form of the flow-
er-bud, the former being globular, the latter conical. It
is claimed by some that the Common Green is more hai-dy
and productive, but we have grown them side by side for
years, and never have observed any difference, except the
very trifling one in the* shape of the flower-bud.

ARTICHOKE.— JERUSALEM.— (Helianfhus tuberosus.)

This is an entirely different plant from the true Arti-
choke, though it resembles it somewhat in flavor — hence
its name. As it is very often confounded with the true
Artichoke, we give an engraving of both. This one is
a species of JTelianthus, or Sun-flower, and the plant has
the general appearance of a small Sunflower. The edible
part of the plant is its tubers. These are like the potato
in appearance, but when cooked, to the taste of most peo-
ple, are very inferior in flavor. Their nutritive value is
said, however, to be fully equal to that of the potato.
Used in the raw state, it is pickled like the cucumber, or
sliced, and eaten with vinegar as a salad, but as a culinary

100 GARDENING FOB PROFIT.

vegetable is but little grown, except for variety or novelty.
Its culture is, in all respects, similar to the potato, but
it is more productive, always free from disease, will grow
almost in any soil or situation, and will stand the winter
jn light soils wherever a Parsnip crop will stand; for

Fig. 28.— JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.

these reasons it has been suggested that it might prove a
valuable food for cattle, or pigs, who eat it as freely as
potatoes, when boiled.

There are several varieties known as Red, Purple, Yel-
low, and White Skinned.

BASIL.— (Ocimum Basilicum.)

An herb of a highly aromatic odor, and a strong flavor
of cloves. It is used for flavoring soups, stews, and
sauces, and is by some used in salads. Its culture is the
same as that of other sweet herbs. The seed should be
sown in the open ground, and not in frames, which is the
English practice, and necessary there from their colder
climate. Sow in rows 1 foot apart ; when 3 or 4 inches
high, it may be transplanted in rows 1 foot apart, and 6
inches between plants. If a small quantity only is re-
quired, it may be thinned out in the seed rows, and left to
grow where sown.

VEGETABLES BEAN. 101

There are two species cultivated, namely, the Common
Sweet Basil, (Ocimum Basilicum)^ and the Bush Basil,
(0. minimum).

BALM. — (Melissa offlcinalis.)

Another well-known aromatic herb, which has a very
agreeable lemon-like odor. It is used as a tea for its sooth-
ing effect in irritations of the throat and lungs, and a cen-
tury ago was used as a specific for coughs and colds. Its
young shoots are sometimes used as an ingredient in
salads. It is rapidly propagated by divisions of the root,
which, planted in spring, at 1 foot apart each way, will
form a solid mass by fall.

Besides the common kind, we have now in cultivation
a beautiful variegated variety, possessing all the properties
of the other.

BEAN.— (Phaseolus nanus.)— BUSH, KIDNEY, OK SNAP.
A leading vegetable of our market gardens, and ex-
tensively cultivated in every section of the country,
North and South. Although it can be grown on soils that
are not enriched by manure, yet, like almost every other
vegetable, it is more profitable when grown on highly cul-
tivated land. It is, what we term, a "tender" plant;
that is, one that will be killed by the action of slight
frosts, hence it is not planted until late enough in the
spring, to secure it from the risk. As in a country pre-
senting such differences of temperature as ours, no stated
date can be given at which to sow, perhaps no safer rule

102 GARDENING FOB PROFIT.

can be adopted for sowing all " tender " vegetables for all
parts of the country, than the time at which our great sta-
ple, Indian Corn, is planted. This rule will be equally in-
telligible to the inhabitants of Maine and to those of South
Carolina, for all -plant Corn and know, that our great
enemy to early vegetation, " Jack Frost," will, without
scruple, smite this "tender" vegetable if it be forced to
grow before his icy reign is past. In this section, we plant
Beans for first crop when we plant Corn, from 10th to 20th
May. But as the crop of Beans comes rapidly to maturity,
under favorable circumstances, in five or six weeks, it may
be sown any time from these dates until July, August, or
September, according to the temperature of the district.

The culture in market gardens, is simply to draw drills
about 3 inches deep, and from 18 inches to 2 feet apart,
according to the richness of the soil ; the poorer the soil,
the closer they can be planted. The seed is dropped in
the drills 2 or 3 inches apart, and the soil covered in on
them with the feet ; this we find to be a quicker and bet-
ter method of covering in seeds of this size, than by the
hoe or rake. After the plants have grown an inch or
two, a cultivator is run between the rows, which gener-
ally is all that is necessary to be done, until they are
large enough to have a little earth thrown to each side of
the row by the plow, which completes their cultivation.
Beans, like Tomatoes and Peas, are easy of cultivation, and
not at all particular to soil, and are, in consequence, rarely
a profitable crop in the locality in which they are grown ;
hence the only way in which they are made profitable is,
by growing South and shipping North, they being easily
transported. Large quantities are grown in early soils

VEGETABLES — BEAN. 103

in southern sections of the country, and shipped to our
large northern cities, and meet a rapid sale, at prices that
must pay a large profit, if their manner of growing the
crop is as simple as ours. It will be understood that thi
crop is almost exclusively sold in pod, as snap shoots, (ia
the green unripened state), by the hucksters, and rarely
as a shell bean.

The varieties are now very numerous, but the following,
placed in what we consider the order of their value to the
market gardener, will embrace variety enough for all
practical purposes.

Early Valentine. — Early, productive, tender, succulent,
and of excellent flavor; continuing longer in the green
state than most of the varieties. Seeds, when ripe, sal-
mon, speckled with purplish-rose. This variety is often
marketable in six weeks from the time of sowing in May.

China* — Rather earlier than the preceding, but hardly
so productive ; the pods become yellow quicker, which
makes it not so valuable as a market variety. It is, how-
ever, grown by some in preference to the Valentine, it be-
ing considered a few days earlier. Seeds, when ripe,
white purple, speckled.

Mohawk. — This variety is the most suitable for north-
ern latitudes, as it is less susceptible of injury from cold
than most of the others ; it is very productive, with pods
6 or 6 inches long, but is not recommended as an early
variety. Seeds drab, variegated with purple spots.

Refugee, or Thousand to One. — Very productive,
though not early ; young pods extremely tender and of
Sne flavor. This variety is very extensively grown for

104 GARDENING FOR PKOFIT.

pickling, and has long been a standard sort. Setds, dull
yellow, speckled with purple.

Newington Wonder, — A wonderfully productive sort,
nnd one of the most popular of all varieties for private
use, the pods being particularly crisp and tender; the
most valued forcing variety. Seeds light "brown, lined
with yellow.

White Marrowfat, — This variety is the one so exten
sively grown for sale in the dry state ; it is also valued as
a stiing bean, but is used to greater extent shelled, either
green or dried. Seeds large, ivory white.

Turtle Soup, — This receives its name from some fancied
resemblance that soup made from the ripe beans, has to
that made from the turtle. It is a late variety, requiring
the whole season in the Northern States to ripen its seeds.
Seeds small, glossy black ; generally used when ripe.

BEAN.— (Phaseolus vulgcvris, etc.)— RUNNING, on POLE.

These require rather more care in culture than the
Bush Beans. The soil best suited is sandy loam, which
should be liberally enriched with short manure in the hills,
which are formed, according to the variety, from 3 to 4
feet apart, and provided with a stake from 8 to 9 feet in
hight, set in the centre of each. This class of beans is
particularly tender, and it is perfectly useless to plant the
seeds before the weather has become settled and warm
in spring, as they are almost certain to rot, and even
should they not, the plant makes no growth, unless in un-
interrupted warm weather. In this distiict, they sho ^ld

VEGETABLES — BEAK. 105

never be planted out until a week or more after the plant-
ing of Bush Beans ; if planted at the same time, 10th of
May, they are almost certain to fail.

From five to six seeds are planted in each hill, about 2
inches deep. Being a vegetable requiring considerable
expense in growing, staking, picking, etc., it brings a cor-
respondingly high price pji- acre in market ; but maturing
during the heat of summer, the advantage of earliness in
this crop is not so manifest as in many others. The prof-
its per acre average about $250, when sold for consump-
tion in the locality in which it is grown. Shipped from
earlier sections it, no doubt, would double the above
amount. There are many varieties, but only a few of
leading value.

Lima. — (Phaseolus lunatus.} — This is almost universally
grown both for market, and for private use. It is esteem
ed the best of all the pole beans.

Small Lima, or Sieva. — A variety of the preceding,
differing in flavor from the common Lima, and by some
much preferred. Habit of the plant similar. Seeds
white ; very productive.

Asparagus Bean. — This variety is most suitable for a
warm climate, as it takes a long season to grow; pods,
when ftill grown, are from 12 to 15 inches long ; they are
used as string beans, or for pickling in the green state ; it
is not used as a shelled bean, being much inferior to the
Lima.

Dutch Case Knife,— A very productive variety, with
long and broad pods ; it is of excellent flavor, and next
to the Lima, is the best market sort.
5*

106 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

London Horticultural. — A very popular variety for
private use, as it is equally serviceable in the green state,
or, when mature enough, to shell. Seeds oval, marbled
with purplish-brown.

Scarlet Runner. — (Phaseolus coccineus.) — A great
favorite in European gardens, both as an ornamental
plant, and a useful vegetable. It grows to the hight of 9
or 10 feet, producing dazzling scarlet flowers, from July
to October. Used as string beans, and shelled. Seeds
lilac, mottled with black.

White Runner.— Similar in all respects to the above,
except in color of flowers and seeds.

Red and White Cranberry. — These are intermediate
in season of maturing. Very popular sorts, used either
as string beans or shelled.

BEET.— (Beta vulgaris.)

This is one of the leading and most valuable crops of
our market gardens, and next to Cabbages, is perhaps the
most extensively grown as an early crop. The soil best
suited, is that which is rather light than otherwise, always
provided that it is thoroughly enriched by manure. We
make little difference in the manner of working or'manur
ing the ground for any of our leading early crops ; the
ground must, in all cases, be thoroughly pulverized by
plowing, subsoiling, and harrowing, and when stable ma-
nure can be procured, plowed in at the rate of 75 or 100
tons per acre. If stable manure cannot be had, the next
best substitutes must be used in the quantities specified1

VEGETABLES — BEET. 107

see Chapter on Manures. As early in spring as the ground
becomes fit to work, the Beets are usually sown in rows
1 foot apart, made by the " marker," about 3 inches deep.
We prefer to sow rather thickly, not less than 8 Ibs. per
acre, for the reason that late frosts often kill off a portion
of the young plants, but when sown thickly, enough is
generally left to make a crop, which amply repays the dif-
ference of a few pounds of seed. After sowing, the drills
are covered in by the feet, by walking along the rows, af-
ter the bed is completed ; if the weather is dry, the whole
is rolled, which better firms the soil around the seed and
also leaves the ground level, making it easier to be hoed.
Beets are occasionally planted 2 feet apart, and the inter-
vening row sown with Radishes; the Radishes mature
early, and are used or sold off soon enough to admit of
more room for the Beet crop. It makes with us but lit-
tle difference in the profits of the crop which way it is
done, the results being nearly the same in each case; but
in places where limited quantities of vegetables only can
be disposed of, perhaps the latter plan is the best. The
young Beets are thinned out to 6 inches apart when the
rows are 1 foot apart, but when at 2 feet to only 4 inches,
as they have more space between the rows for air. The
thinnings of the Beets are used like Spinach, and when
carefully handled, the thinnings will always sell for more
than the price of the labor of thinning the crop.

In this neighborhood, Beets sown first week in April,
are begun to be marketed the first week in June, and en-
tirely cleared off by July 1st, when the ground is prepar-
ed for the second crop. It will be understood that they
are at this early date sold in an immature state, before the

108 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

root has reached complete development, but the great
point is earliness ; the public being well satisfied to pay
more for it half-grown, if early, than when full grown, if
late.

This crop I have always considered a very profitable
one, even at the seemingly low price of $1 per 100 roots,
£he average wholesale price in New York markets. But
80,000 roots are grown per acre when sown at 1 foot apart,
and although the labor of pulling and bundling up is
greater than in some crops, yet, at $1 per 100, it will give
an easy profit of $400 per acre.

Beets are an excellent article to ship, and the price paid
in New York, for the first lots from Savannah and Norfolk,
etc., is often as high as $3 per 100 roots.

The foregoing all relates to the crop in the green state
for an early market, but they are also extensively grown
for use in fall, winter, and spring. For this they are usu-
ally sown later, often in sonic sections as a second crop, as
late as July 1st, although in the Northern States the roots
hardly develop enough when sown
after June. The manner of saving
them in winter, will be found under
the head of Preserving Vegetables
in Winter.

The really useful varieties of Beets
are very limited in number, and are
embraced in the following, arranged
Fig. 29.— SHORT-TOP as usual, according to their merit as

BOUND BEET. market sorts.

Short-top Round. — This variety originated with us
About ten years ago ; it differs from the common Blood

VEGETABLES BEET. 109

Turnip Beet, in being rather flatter, freer from roots, and
what is of maiu importance, shorter in top ; it is not quite
so early as the Bassano, but being of richer color, it at
once supplants it in market, soon as it comes in, which is
usually in three or four days after that variety.

Bassano. — The earliest of all known varieties ; outside
color light red ; flesh white, veined with pink. Its earli-
ness is its only merit, as it is coarser than
the deep colored varieties. The propor-
tionate quantity sown for market pur-
poses, should not be more than one-sixth
of the preceding.

Pine Apple. — An excellent variety of
rich deep crimson color, pine apple shap-
ed, and nearly equal in earliness to
the Short Top Round.

Long Smooth Bloo.d. — A great im-
provement on the Common Blood Beet,
being less strong and freer from root-
lets, besides being a week earlier. It
is now grown here to the entire ex-
clusion of the other. The market de-
Fig. 30.— PINE AP- mancl, however, for early crop, requires
FLE BEET, twice the quantity of Round to Long;
for late sales of barreled roots, exactly the reverse.

Swiss Chard. — Is a distinct species from the Beet grown
for its roots, known to botanists as Seta cicla. It is cul-
tivated solely for its leaves. The mid-rib of leaf is stewed
as Asparagus, the other portions of the leaf being used as
Spinach. The outer leaves are pulled off" as in gathering
Rhubarb. It is largely grown in France and Switzerland.

110 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

In this country, it is now cultivated to some extent in
private gardens only. Its handsome foliage is as attrac-
tive as many of onr prized flower-garden " leaf plants,"
and no doubt it would be much valued if we could only
regard it without the idea that it is only a Beet.

BORECOLE OR KALE.— (Brassica oleracea. Var.)

A variety of this receiving the rather indefinite term
of " Sprouts," is extensively grown for the Northern mar-
kets, many acres of it being cultivated in the vicinity
of New York. It is sown in the month of September, in
rows 1 foot apart, treated in every way as Spinach, and is
ready for use in early spring. It is difficult to keep in
some soils in winter ; those of rather a light nature being
the best. When successfully wintered over, it is a very
profitable crop, not unfrequently selling for $500 per acre.
The variety thus grown, is known in the seed stores as
Dwarf German Greens. Another class of it is cultivated
as we grow late Cabbage; it is sown in the open ground
in May, and planted out at distances, according to the va-
riety, from 2 to 3 feet apart. Of all the Cabbage tribe
this is the most tender and delicate, and it is surprising
that it has never yet been wanted in quantity enough to
make it a marketable vegetable, not one head being sold
to one thousand of the coarse winter Cabbage. The va-
rieties are very numerous ; those below described are all
standard sorts.

Dwarf German Greens, or " Sprouts," — Color blueish-

VEGETABLES — BORECOLE.

Ill

green, slightly colored, resembling somewhat the foliage
of Ruta Baga Turnips ; it is of delicate flavor, and every
way desirable. The popular market sort.

Green Curled Scotch,— A rather dwarf variety, rarely
exceeding 18 inches in hight, but spreading, when under
good cultivation, to 3 feet in diameter. The leaves are

Fig. 31.— GERMAN GREENS.

beautifully curled, and of a bright green. This variety is
very hardy, and will remain over winter in any place
where the temperature does not fall below zero ; it is most
tender after being touched by sharp frost.

Purple Borecole, — Similar to the above in all respects
except color, wThich is of a dull purple. It is the variety
most esteemed by the Germans ; it is very hardy, and is
often seen in the markets of New York as late as January.

112 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Brown Borecole, — Leaves brown, as the name indi-
cates ; merely a sub-variety of the purple, being in all re-
spects the same, except in color.

Cottagers' Kale, — A comparatively new variety, a great
favorite in England. It is dwarf, not exceeding 12 inch-
es ; leaves rich green, double curled and " feathered " al
most to the ground. Very hardy, and a most profitable
sort, more weight being grown in the same space than
with any other variety.

BROCCOLI.— (Brassica oleracea. Var.)

This vegetable is so closely allied to Cauliflower, that it
seems absurd to have ever divided them under different
heads. Still we persist in growing them under the names
of Broccoli and Cauliflower, the Broccoli being planted for
fall use, Cauliflower, on the other hand, being mostly
planted for summer use, although it is well known that
their seasons might be reversed without any marked dif-
ference in the results. Like all of the Cabbage tribe,
Broccoli, to grow it in perfection, requires the soil to be in
the highest possible degree of fertility. The seed should
be sown, in this district, in the early part of May, which
will give plants large enough to be transplanted in July.
Farther south the sowing should be delaved until June o*1
July, and the transplanting delayed accordingly until
August, September, or October. There is no doubt that in
parts of the country where the thermometer does not fall
below 20° or 25°, that Broccoli may be had in perfection
from November until March. A necessary condition of

VEGETABLES BROCCOLI. 113

perfect development, is a moist and rather cool atmosphere ;
for this reason we only get the crop in fine condition, in
this district, during the cool and moist months of October
and November. Owing often, however, to heat or dry-
ness in the months of August and September, the crop be-
comes an entire failure, and for this reason, for market
purposes, it is rather hazardous. When a good crop is
made, however, it is very profitable, rarely bringing less
than $12 per 100, or about $1000 per acre. The plants
of most of the varieties are planted 2| by l£ feet, or about
10,000 plants per acre.

In this district, for market purposes, we confine ourselves
to the first two varieties named below ; the other two,
however, are occasionally grown for family use.

White Cape. — Heads of medium size, close, compact,
and of a creamy white color ; one of' the most certain to
head.

Purple Cape, — Nearly similar in all respects to the
White Cape, except in color, which is greenish-purple.
This variety is rather hardier than the preceding, but its
color renders it of less value in market. White heads of
the same quality bringing $1 to $2 more per 100. This is
mere matter of fancy in the buyers, however, as when
cooked there is but little difference in its appearance from
the White, and none whatever in the flavor.

Early Walchcren, — This variety seems to produce its
heads earlier than the preceding, but they are not usually
so heavy or compact.

Knights' Protecting. — This variety is of dwarf habit,
much esteemed by private gardeners for preserving in
frames or cellars, for late winter use. When lifted and

114

GARDENTN"G FOR PROFIT.

planted in boxes of earth in a cellar or in cold pits or
frames, even as late as November, fine heads may be had
until January.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.— (Brassica oleracea. Var.)
This vegetable has never come into general use in this
country, probably owing to its being too tender to stand
the winters of the North-
ern States. Still, by sow-
ing in April or May, and
planting out in July, it
may be had in fine condi-
tion until December; and
in the Southern States,
may be had in use from
November to March. Even
in England, where it is
very extensively grown, it
is not much raised for mar-
ket, being mainly cultivat-
ed for private use. Its
cultivation is very simple,
and it can be grown on
almost any soiL Plant
about 2 feet apart, and
cultivate as for Cabbages.
There is only one kind, which is distinguished from all
other varieties of the Cabbage tribe by the sprouts or
buds, about the size of walnuts, which grow thickly around
the stem ; these sprouts are the parts used, and are equal
in tenderness and flavor to Cauliflower or Broccoli.

Fig. 32. — BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

VEGETABLES CAULIFLOWER. 115

CAULIFLOWER.— (Brassica oleracea. Far.)
As we remarked in the chapter on Broccoli, Cauliflower
is mostly grown as a spring or summer crop, and as all
such are more profitable, and consequently of more interest
to the grower than crops maturing in fall, we will give its
culture more at length.

Any soil that will grow early Cabbages, will grow Caul-
iflower, as their requirements are almost similar ; but as
the product is more valuable, extra manuring and prepara-
tion of the soil will be well re-paid. In situations where
irrigation could be practised, it would be of great benefit
in dry weather. "We have occasionally found, when our beds
were convenient to water, that even watering by hand has
been of advantage. But few or no other crops of our gar-
dens will re-pay that labor. The seeds of Cauliflower,
(that we wish to be ready for market in June), are sown in
the fall previous, between the 10th and 20th of September.
In the course of four or five weeks the plants are trans-
planted into frames, in the manner described in the chapter
headed " Uses and Management of Cold Frames ; " but as
they are rather more tender than Cabbage or Lettuce
plants, we find it necessary to have the glass protected by
straw-mats at night during winter. In cases where it is
not convenient or practicable to have the plants thus win-
tered over, they can be had nearly or quite as well by sow-
ing the seed in the hot-bed, or vegetable forcing house, in
January or February, and transplanting the plants at 2 or
3 inches apart in boxes or in the soil of another hot-bed,
until such time as they are safe to be planted in the open
ground, which, with us, is usually from 15th of March to
10th of April. If properly hardened off, they are rarely

116 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

injured by being planted out too early. It must be borne
in mind that the plant is nearly hardy, and that 10 or 15
degrees of frost will not injure it, provided it has been
treated as its hardy nature requires, by having been ex-
posed to the air previous to setting out in the open gar-
den. I know that the general practice with amateur hor-
ticulturists is very different from this, and that their usual
time of planting Cauliflower is when they plant Tomatoes,
and in consequence, failure is almost universal. The plant,
set out in May, hardly gets root before hot weather sets
in, and if the flower head is developed at all, it is merely
an abortion of what it should be. With me, for the past
four or five years, Cauliflowers have been one of my most
profitable crops. I have during that time grown about
one acre each year, which has certainly averaged $1500.
On one occasion the crop proved almost an entire failure,
owing to unusual drouth in May ; while on another oc-
casion, with an unusually favorable season, it sold at neai-ly
$3000 per acre.

The average price for all planted is about $15 per 100,
and as from 10,000 to 12,000 are grown to the acre, it will
result in nearly the average before named — $1500 per
acre. Unlike Cabbages, however, only a limited number
is yet sold, and I have found that an acre of them has
been quite as much as could be profitably grown in one
garden. Cauliflowers require careful handling to be mar-
keted in good shape ; after being trimmed of all surplus
leaves, they are packed in boxes holding about 100 each,
and are generally sold to retailers in this shape, without
being removed from the packages. This early crop is al-
ways sold by the first week of July, allowing plenty time to

VEGETABLES CAULIFLOWER.

117

get in second crops of Celery, etc. ; but when wanted for
fall or winter use, its treatment is the same in all respects
as that of Broccoli. Like all our market garden products,
we grow only a very limited number of varieties, and these
such as are suited to our climate here ; some of the most
popular English sorts being perfectly worthless with us.
Early Erfurt, — This is our favorite sort, being a dwari
compact growing kind, producing uniformly large heads ;
the leaves grow more up-
right than in any other
variety , consequently it
can be planted closer, 24
inches by 15 inches, while
most of the other sorts re-
quire 28 inches by 18 inch-
es. This variety is com-
paratively new, and the
seeds are very scarce and
high priced.

Early Paris,— This well-
known variety stands next
on the list ; it is equally
meritorious in all respects to the Erfurt, except that it re-
quires more space to grow in.

Half Early, — A variety that is very useful for a succes-
sion crop. The great difficulty with Cauliflowers for mar-
ket is, that the whole crop comes in and must be sold in
the space of two weeks, unless we have varieties that come
on in succession.

Wellington, — Recently introduced ; forms a flower head
of immense size ; we have measured them 13 inches in di-

Fig. 33. — EARLY ERFURT CAULI-
FLOWER.

118 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

ameter. It is, however, a large foliaged variety, and
would require considerable space to grow in; for this
reason it will not likely become a popular market variety.

CABBAGE.— EABLY.— {.Bramea oleracea.)
The early varieties of Cabbage are cultivated more ex-
tensively than any other vegetable we grow. If they
do not occupy a larger number of acres, they certainly
sell for a much larger amount than any other crop. They
are also generally considered to be the most profitable of
all crops of our gardens on congenial soils. Experience
in a great variety of soils in the cultivation of this crop,
shows that what is known as heavy sandy loam, overlay-
ing a porous subsoil, is the best adapted to it. Along the
sea shore, for about one mile inland, we have often an ad-
mixture of oyster and other shells in the soil ; wherever
such is found, there, with proper cultivation, Cabbage
can be raised in the highest degree of perfection. The
large amount of lime in the soil, produced by the gradual
decay of the shell, is not only congenial to the growth of
the Cabbage tribe, but is certainly destructive to the larva
of the insect which is known to produce club-root. In
such soils, where in some instances Cabbages have been
grown for fifty consecutive years, club-root is never seen.
It is plain from this then, that lime is indispensable in the
cultivation of this crop, and that if not naturally found in
the soil, it must be applied. The most profitable applica-
tion, I have found to be the flour of bone ; a detail of
some experiments with which will be found in the Chap-
ter on " Insects."

VEGETABLES — CABBAGE. 1 19

The preparation of the ground for Cabbage differs in
nothing from that for all the regular market garden crops,
-^-careful plowing and subsoiling, and manuring with sta-
ble or barn-yard manure when procurable, at the rate of 75
tons per acre, alternating this with guano, etc., in the
quantities named under the head of " Manures."

The early varieties of Cabbage are planted out in spring,
as soon as the ground is dry enough to work ; in the lati-
tude of New York, from 15th March to 15th April. The
distance apart is from 24 to 28 inches between the lines,
and 16 inches between the plants in rows. At the same
time that we plant out Cabbage or Cauliflower, between
the lines are planted Lettuce, at 12 inches apart. To
repay such expensive manuring and cultivation, every inch
must be made to tell.

The Lettuce is ready for market by the middle of May,
and is cut off before the Cabbage is large enough to in-
jure it. The ground is now clear of the Lettuce, and the
whole space is occupied by the Cabbages, which are all
sold off before the middle of July ; the greater part in
fact by the end of June, which gives the necessary time for
second crops. The raising of the plants is done in various
ways, according to the differences of climate, and also of
the market requirements in different sections. In lati-
tudes where the thermometer never indicates 20° below
he freezing point, Cabbage plants may be sown in the
open border in October, and planted out at the distances
named, on the first opening of spring ; but in our North-
ern States, they must either be sown in hot-beds in Feb-
ruary, (see instructions in Chapter on Hot-beds) or what
is still better, wintered over in cold frames. For this pur-

120 GARDENING FOE PEOFTT.

pose the seed is sown from the 10th to the 20th of Sep-
tember ; strict attention to date is important ; if too soon,
the plants might run to seed, and if too late, they would
be too small. In about four or five weeks from the time of
sowing, they will be fit to transplant into the cold frames,
from 500 to 600 being put under a sash 3 by 6 feet. In
planting, it is very important with Cabbage or Cauliflow-
er, that the plant is set down to the first leaf, so that the
stem or stalk is all under ground, for we find that if ex-
posed, it will be split by the action of the frost, and will
be injured in consequence. Instructions regarding win-
ter treatment, will be found under the head of " Cold
Frames." I have before stated that, from the extent to
which Early Cabbage is cultivated, it is one of the most
important crops grown. It is also by far the most profit-
able, on a large scale, and no grower here, whose ground
has not been fitted to produce it properly, has ever been
very successful ; it requires but little labor, and is always
readily disposed of at profitable rates. At the distance
planted, from 12,000 to 13,000 are grown per acre, the av-
erage price of which, at wholesale, is $50 per 1000, or
about $600 per acre.

We allude to varieties here with some hesitation, as it
is unquestionable that soil or climate has much to do in
determining the merits of varieties in different localities
As the best that I can do in the matter, I adopt the usual
plan I have adhered to throughout, and place first on the
list those we find to have the greatest general merit.

Jersey Wakefleld, — This variety is said to have been
first grown by Francis Brill, then of Jersey City, N. J.,
some twenty-five years ago, from a package of seed receiv-

VEGETABLES CABBAGE.

121

ed from England under the name of Early Wakefield, and
has been kept in the immediate locality almost ever since.
We have experimented with scores of varieties in that
time, and find nothing equal to it. It is quite a shy seed-
ing sort, and on several occasions enough seed could not
be procured to meet the demands of the growers, and
then it has repeatedly sold
as high as $20 per lb., or
quite five times the rate of
other sorts. True, we have
it quoted in the English seed
lists as low as other vari-
eties, but repeated trials of
almost every kind named in
their catalogues, too well
told us that the Early Wake-
field, as we know it, was no

iLT. 34. — JERSEY WAKEFIELD

CABBAGE. longer procurable in Eng-

land. The merit of this variety consists in its large size
of head, small outside foliage, and its uniformity in
producing a crop. The heads are pyramidal, having
rather a blunted or rounded peak; color glaucous
green.

Early York. — This well-known variety is more univer-
sally cultivated than all others ; in earliness it is quite
equal to the Wakefield, but is inferior in size, and for mar-
ket purposes, with us, would not sell for much more than
half the price of the Wakefield. Heads small, roundish-
oval ; color pea-green.

Large irork.-- .Similar to the above, but larger in all its
6

122 GARDENING FOE PKOFIT.

parts; it is grown to a considerable extent in the South
and South-west.

Early Ox Heart. — This, next to the Wakefield, used
to be our favorite sort for market purposes, and although
equal in earliness and size, was found not be so uniform in
heading ; for family culture it is, however, a very valuable
variety, as it is one of the best flavored and tender.

Early WinningStadt. — Should hardly be claimed as
early, as it is quite three weeks later than any of the
above, but it is an excellent sort where earliness is not an
object, as it heads uniformly, find is of lai'ge size, often
weighing 20 Ibs. It is a very distinct variety ; head pyra-

Fig. 35.— EARLY FLAT DUTCH CABBAGE.

midal; the outer leaves spiral and spreading, which re-
quires it to be planted wider than the early sorts. For
this reason, together with its lateness, it is not a favorite
in gardens where two crops are grown in one season.

Early Flat Dutch. — A very dwarf variety with large
round head, almost flat on the top ; it is a very excellent

rEGETABLES CABBAGE. 123

variety for a succession crop, being two or three weeks
behind the earliest sorts. Though not more than 8000 or
9000 can be planted on an acre, yet, as it comes in just
when the glut is over, it rarely sells for less than $12 per
100. Its lateness, however, prevents the getting in of a
second crop, and it is consequently not largely grown.

CABBAGE.-LATE.

The manner of cultivating Late Cabbage is not quite
BO expensive as that for Early, and as a consequence, the
receipts for the crop are correspondingly low. In fact, it
is often sold at prices that would not more than repay the
price of manure and labor expended on the early crop. But
as it can be raised with much less manure and labor, and
on land less valuable, it is extensively grown in the neigh-
borhood of all our large cities, rather, however, by farm-
ers than by gardeners. The seed is sown usually in the
early part of May, and the plants set out in July, at dis-
tances of 3 feet between the rows, and 2 feet between the
plants. The crop is almost exclusively worked by (.he cul-
tivator or plow, one hoeing usually sufficing around the
plants. In Long Island, N. Y., they are set out in July,
on the ground from which early Potatoes or Peas have
been grown. About 10 tons of stable manure per acre ia
usually put in the rows over which the plants are set. The
price averages about $40 per 1000; 6000 or 7000 are
grown per acre, giving an average of, perhaps, $300 to the
acre. Late Cabbage is extensively shipped during the fall
months, from New Tork to southern ports. The hot and

124 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

dry summers there preventing the raising of plants from
seed. Recently, however, some of the growers in Charles-
ton, Savannah, Richmond, and other cities, have discov-
ered that it is more profitable to have the plants grown
North, and to plant them in August or September, and
grow them themselves. Many hundred thousands of
plants of Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Celery, are now an-
nually sent South in August.

The varieties of Late Cabbage are not so numerous as
the Early ; the best for general purposes are the following :

Bergen Drumhead, — This is the variety grown for the
general crop, it is of the largest size, sometimes almost
round, though more generally flattened at the top. It is
extremely hardy, and will withstand severe frosts without
injury. In localities where there is not more than 15 or
20 degrees of frost, it can be left out where grown all
winter, but in the Northern States requires the protection
as recommended in the chapter on " Preservation of Veg-
etables in Winter."

Premium Flat Dutch, — A very handsome variety, dif-
fering from the Drumhead in perfecting its head rather
earlier in the fall, and for^that reason is not quite so well
adapted for winter use ; it is, however, much grown as an
early fall sort. It is particularly tender, and superior in
flavor to the Drumhead.

IHason, — Sometimes called Stone Mason, in compliment
to its extreme hardness, I suppose. Is rather a small va-
riety for a late Cabbage, but this enables it to perfect its
head in a short season, and for this reason it is recom-
mended for extreme northern latitudes.

VEGETABLES CABBAGE. 125

Drumhead Savoy. — This variety is the largest of the
Savoy Class, and is the sort most generally cultivated for
market. The head is large, spherical, very solid and com-
pact, of a yellowish-green; and like all others of the
Savoy varieties, is of excellent flavor, far surpassing that
of any late Cabbage. Still, such is the force of habit, that
the public do not purchase one Savoy for every thousand

Fig. 36. — DRUMHEAD SAVOY CABBAGE.

of the coarse Drumhead class, although the difference in
quality between the two is as great as between the fox
grape of the woods and a cultivated Delaware.
• Green Globe Savoy, — Smaller in all respects than the
preceding, of darker green, the loaves intensely wrinkled.
The compact and rather upright growth of the lower
loaves allows it to be planted quite as close as early Cab-
bage, 24 inches by 18 inches. It is the favorite of all
the varieties for family use.

Red Dutch, — Is used almost exclusively for pickling;

126 GARDENING FOE PBOFIT.

it is one of the hardiest of all Cabbages, and when pre«
served as directed for the others, will keep later in the
season than any other. It is slow to mature, however,
and requires a richer soil for its perfect development.

C ARDOON.— ( Cynara cardunculus.)

A vegetable that is but little grown, and then oftener
as a novelty than for use. It belongs to the same family
as the Artich'oke, which it much resembles. The shoots,
after blanching, are used in soups or in salads. It is cul-
tivated by sowing the seeds in early spring, thinly, in rows
3 feet apart, and thinning out to 18 inches between the
plants. The plant attains its growth in early fall, when it
is blanched by tying the leaves together so as to form an
erect growth, after which it is earthed up, and preserved
exactly as we do Celery.

CARROT.— (Daucus Oarota.)

This may be classed more as a crop of the farm than
of the garden, as a far larger area is grown for the food
of horses and cattle than for culinary purposes. Yet it is
a salable vegetable' in our markets, and by no means an
unprofitable one to grow on lands not too valuable. It is
not necessary that the land for this crop should be highly
enriched. I have grown on sod land, (which had been
turned over in fall), 300 barrels per acre, without a par-

VEGETABLES CARROT. 1 27

ticle of manure, and three years after, the same land which
had been brought up to our market garden standard
of fertility, a very inferior crop; the land being too
rich, induced a growth of tops rather than roots. lu our
market gardens, we sow in rows 14 inches apart, thinning
out to 3 or 4 inches between the plants ; but on farm lands
where space is not so valuable, they should be planted 18
or 24 inches between the rows, and worked with the culti-
vator. For early crops, we sow at the beginning of our first
operations in spring, in the same manner as we sow Beets,
as soon as the ground is thoroughly dry; but for later
crops, they may be sown any time, in this latitude, until
the middle of June. This is one of the vegetables that re-
quire a close watching, to see that it does not get envelop-
ed with weeds, as in its early stage it is of comparatively
feeble growth, and unless it is kept clean from the start,
it is apt to get irrevocably injured.

The usually prescribed quantity of seed per acre is 5 Ibs.,
but I have always considered it safer to sow nearly double
that quantity. In dry weather it germinates feebly, and
not unfrequently, when seed comes up thinly, it is scorched
off by the hot sun, and the saving of a few pounds of
seed may entail the loss of half the crop. We prefer to
sow all such crops by hand.

The Carrot, like all other root crops, delights in a sandy
loam, deeply tilled. Considerable quantities of the early
varieties are sold, in our markets, in bunches, in a half-
grown state, at prices equal to early Beets sold in the same
manner. Sold in this state, they are highly profitable at
the prices received, but only limited quantities can be dis-
posed of. In the dry state, during fall and winter, they

128 GARDENING FOB PROFIT.

range from $1.50 to $2.50 per barrel, according to quality,
and at these prices will yield double the profit of Pota-
toes, as a farm crop.

The varieties in general cultivation are limited. The
favorite variety for all purposes is the

Long Orange. — This is equally adapted
for garden or farm culture ; it is of large
size, fair specimens averaging 12 inches in
length, with a diameter of 3
inches at the top ; color orange-
red, varying in depth of shade
in different soils.

Early Horn. — An • old and

favorite sort for an early crop,

but not large enough to be

suitable for general culture.

It is the variety that is sold in

our markets bunched up in the

green state. It matures its root

eight or ten days earlier than

the preceding. It is also more tender, and

is more valued than any other for culinary

use. It may be grown closer than the
Fig. 37.— LONG
ORANGE CARROT. Long Orange, as its foliage is much shorter.

Early French Horn. — This variety is used only for
forcing in hot-beds or vegetable forcing house, its small
foliage and short root, not unlike the Turnip Radish in
shape, rendering it especially suitable for growing under
glass. It is not yet very generally grown for market, thus
forced, but what few have been grown, were quickly sold

VEGETABLES CHERVIL CELERY. 129

at most profitable rates, $12 for the products of a 3x6
sash, or about 5 cents a piece.

White Belgian. — This is the most productive of all
known varieties ; the lower part of the root is white, that
growing aboye the ground, and exposed to the air, green.

It is exclusively grown for stock, bearing nearly twice
as much weight per acre as the Long Orange. Horses do
not eat it quite so readily, however, and it is said to be
less nutritious than the Red or Orange sorts.

CHERVIL. — TURNIP-ROOTED. — (Ghcerophyllum bulbosum.)
A vegetable of r.ecent introduction, closely allied to the
Parsnip, which it resembles in shape. It is of. a grayish
color ; the flesh is white and mealy, tasting something like
the Sweet Potato. It is equally as hardy as the Parsnip,
and in France, where it has been cultivated to a consider-
able extent, is said to have yielded 6 tons per acre. It is
one of the many plants that were experimented with in
Europe as a substitute for the Potato, when it was feared
that that root would be lost to us by disease. Its culture
is in all repects similar to the Parsnip or Carrot ; it is en-
tirely hardy in any latitude, and is rather improved by the
action of the frost. It must be sown as early in spring
as the soil is fit to work, it being slow to germinate if the
weather becomes hot and dry.

CELERY.— (Apium graveolens.)

I know of no vegetable on the cultivation of which
there is so much useless labor expended with such nnsatis-
6*

130 GARDENING FOK PROFIT.

factory results, as Celery. Almost all private cultivators
still think it necessary to dig out trenches, from 6 to 12
inches deep, involving great labor and expense, and giv-
ing a very inferior crop to that planted on the level sur-
face, in the manner practised on hundreds of acres by the
market gardeners in the vicinity of New York.

Our manner of treating the Celery crop, of late years,
is very much simplified. Instead of sowing the seed in a
hot-bed or cold frame, as formerly, it is sown in the open
ground as soon as the ground is fit to work in spring —
here about first week in April — on a level piece of rich
mellow soil, that has been specially prepared by thorough
pulverizing and mixing with short stable manure. The
bed being fined down by raking so that it is clear of stones
and all inequalities, lines are drawn out by the "marker"
8 or 9 inches apart, in beds of 8 rows in a bed, rubbing
out every 9th line for an alley, on which to walk when
weeding, etc. The seed should be sown rather thinly,
one ounce being sufficient for every 20 feet in length of
such a bed. After sowing, the bed should be rolled, or
patted down with a spade, which will give the seed suf
ficient covering.

As soon as the seeds of Celery begin to germinate, so
that the rows can be traced, hoe lightly between the rows,
and begin to pull out the weeds as soon as they can be
seen. One day's work, at the proper time, will be better
than a dozen after the seed bed gets enveloped with
weeds, besides ensuring much finer plants.

As the plants advance in growth, the tops are shorn off,
generally twice before the time of setting out, so as to in-

VEGETABLES CELERY. 131

duce a stocky growth ; plants, thus treated, suffer less on
being transplanted.

Celery may be planted any time from middle of June
to middle of August; but the time we most prefer is dur
ing July, as there is but little gamed by attempting it
early. In fact, I have often seen plants raised in hot-beds
and planted out in June, far surpassed both in size and
quality by those raised in the open ground and planted
a month later. Celery is a plant requiring a cool moist
atmosphere, and it is nonsense to attempt to grow it early,
in our hot and dry climate ; and even when grown, it is
not a vegetable that is ever very palatable until cool
weather. This our market experience well proves, for al-
though we always have a few bunches exposed, for sale in
August and September, there is not one root sold then for
a thousand that are sold in October and November. Cel-
ery is always grown as a " second crop " by us, that is, it
follows after the spring crop of Beets, Onions, Cabbage,
Cauliflower, or Peas, which are cleared off and marketed,
at latest, by the middle of July ; the ground is then thor-
oughly plowed and harrowed. No additional manure is
used, as enough remains in the ground, from the heavy
coat it has received in the spring, to carry through the
crop of Celery. After the ground hus been nicely pre-
pared, lines are struck out on the level surface, 3 feet
apart, and the plants set 6 inches apart in the rows. If
the weather is dry at the time of planting, great care
should be taken that the roots are properly "firmed."
Our custom is, to turn back on the row, and press by the
side of each plant gently with the foot. This compacts
the soil and partially excludes the air from the root until

132

GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

new rootlets are formed, which will usually be in forty-
eight hours, after which all danger is over. This practice
of pressing the soil closely around the roots is essential in
planting of all kinds, and millions of plants are annually
destroyed by its omission. After the planting of the Cel-
ery is completed, nothing further is to be done for six or
seven weeks, except running through between the rows
with the cultivator or hoe, and freeing the plants of weeds
until they get strong enough to crowd them down. This
will bring us to about the middle of August, by which

Pig. 39.— CELEUY AFTER "HANDLING."

time we usually have that moist and cool atmosphere es-
sential to the growth of Celery. Then we begin the " earth-
ing ™P»" necessary for' blanching or whitening that which
is wanted for use during the months of September, Octo-
ber, and November. The first operation is that of " hand-
ling," as we term it, that is, after the soil has been drawn
up against the plant with the hoe, it is further drawn close
around each plant by the hand, firm enough to keep the
leaves in an upright position and prevent them from
spreading, which will leave them as shown in fig. 39.

VEGETABLES — CELERY. 133

This being done, more soil is drawn against the row, (either
by the plow or hoe, as circumstances require), so as to
keep the plant in this upright position. The blanching
process must, however, be finished by the spade, which is
done by digging the soil from, between the rows and
banking it up clear to the top on each side of the row of
Celery, as in fig. 40. Three feet is ample distance be-
tween the dwarf varieties, but when " Seymour's Superb,"

" Giant," or other large sorts are used, the width between
the rows must be at least 4| or 5 feet, which entails much
more labor and loss of ground. For the past eight years
I have grown none but the dwarf varieties, and have saved
in consequence at least one-half in labor, and one-third in
ground, while the average price per root in market has
been always equal and occasionally higher than for the
tall growing sorts.

My neighbors around me have at last got their eyes
opened to the value of the dwarf sorts, and I think that
a few years more will suffice to throw the large and coarse-

134 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

flavored sorts, such as " Seymour's Superb," and " Giant,"
out of our markets.

The preparation of the soil and planting of Celery for
winter use, is the same in all repects, except that, what is
intended for winter need never be " banked up " with the
spade. It merely requires to be put through the handling
process, to put it in a compact and upright position pre-
paratory to being stowed away in winter quarters. This
should not be done before the middle of September, or
just long enough before the Celery is dug up, to keep it
in the upright position.

We have, however, another method which we have
found to answer very well for the late crop, and it is one
by which more roots can be grown on the same space
and with less labor than by any other. It is simply to
plant the Celery 1 foot apart, each way, nothing farther be-
ing required after planting, except twice or thrice hoeing
to clear the crop of weeds until it grows enough to cover
the ground. No handling or earthing up is required by
this method, for, as the plants struggle for light, they nat-
urally assume an upright position, the leaves all assuming
the perpendicular instead of the horizontal, which is the
condition essential before being put in winter quarters.
This method is not quite so general with us as planting in
rows, and it is perhaps better adapted for private gardens
than for market ; as the plant is more excluded from the
air, the root hardly attains as much thickness as by the
other plan.

Our manner of preserving it during winter is now very
simple, but as the knowledge of the process is yet quite
local, being confined almost exclusively to the Jersey

VEGETABLES CELERY. 135

Tnarket gardeners, I will endeavor to put it plain enough,
so that my readers " may go and do likewise." In this
locality we begin to dig up that which we intend for win-
ter use about the end of October, and continue the work
(always on dry days) until the 20th or 25th of November
which is as late as we dare risk it out for fear of frost
Let it be understood that Celery will stand quite a sharp
frost, say 10 or even 15 degrees, while 20 or 25 degrees
will destroy it. Hence experience has taught us, that the
sharp frosts that we usually have during the early part of
November, rarely hurt it, though often causing it to droop
flat on the ground, until thawed out by the sun. It must,
however, never be touched when in the frozen state, or it
is almost certain to decay. The ground in which it is
placed for winter use should be as dry as possible, or if
not dry, so arranged that no wal ?r will remain in the
trench. The trench should be dug as narrow as possible,
not more than 10 or 12 inches wida, and of the depth ex-
actly of the hight of the Celery; that is, if the plant of
the Celery be 2 feet in length, the depth of the drain or
trench should be 2 feet also. The Celery is now placed in
the trench as near perpendicular as possible, so as to fill it
up entirely, its green tops being on a level with the top
of the trench. Figure 41 represents a section across a
trench filled with Celery in the manner j\ist described.
No earth whatever is pul, to the roots other than what
may adhere to them after being dug up. It being closely
packed together, there is moisture enough always at the
bottom of the trench to keep this plant, at the cool season
of the year, from wilting. That which is put in trenches
about the 25th of October, is usually ready to be taken

136

GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

up for use about the 1st of December, that a couple of
weeks later, by 1st January, and the last (which we try
always to defer to 15th or 20th November) may be used
daring the winter and until the 1st of April. For tlio
first lot, no covering is required, but that for use during
the winter months, must be gradually covered up, from the
middle of December, on until 1st of January, when it will
require at least a foot of covering of some light, dry ma-
terial— hay, straw, or leaves — the latter perhaps the best

^f^SllP^^^^^^

ilC. 41. — CELERY STORED FOR WINTER.

I have said the covering up should bo gradual. This is
very important, for if the full weight of covering is put on
at once, it prevents the passing off of the heat generated by
the closely packed mass of Celery, and in«consequence it
to some extent " heats," and decay takes place. Covered
up in this manner, it can be got out with ease, during the
coldest weather in winter, and with perfect safety. These
dates of operations, like all others named throughout, are
for this latitude ; the cultivator must use his judgment
carefully in this matter, to suit the section in which he is
located.

VEGETABLES CELEEY. 137

Regarding the profits of this crop I can speak from a
very extensive experience in its culture, having cultivated
an average of ten acres for the past eighteen years. For
many years, in the early part of that time, h was, by no
means, what we would now call a profitable crop. By
persisting in raising the large growing sorts, and the awk«
ward and expensive mode we had then of working it, we
Avere satisfied if it gave us a profit of $50 or $75 per acre.
But for the last six or eight years, by adopting the flat
culture, and the drain or trench system for winter storage,
it has done much better, and is now a very profitable
" second crop," averaging a clear profit of $300 per acre,
though it rarely brings over $3 per 100 roots. No doubt,
in many parts of the country, it would be much more prof-
itable than in the crowded markets of New York. Iv is
shipped from here in all directions ; to Philadelphia (large-
ly), Baltimore and Washington, (South), and to New-
port, Providence, Hartford and New Haven, (East). It is
a bulky and expensive article to ship, and the dealer must
realize more than double on the purchase, or it will not
pay his risk. It must thus cost the consumer, in these
towns to which we send it, 8 or 10 cents a head, a price at
which it would pay a clear profit of $1000, or $1500 per
acre.

If the awkward and laborious systems of cultivation
still persisted in for the growing of Celery, is a mistake, the
continued use of the tall growing and coarse varieties,
we believe to be even a far greater one. The kinds that
should be grown, either for private or market use, are
Very limited.

Incomparable Dwarf, — This, so far, is decidedly our

138 GABDENING FOR PROFIT.

best variety ; under good cultivation it attains a higlit of
2 feet, and a circumference of 12 inches ; it is perfectly
solid, the stalks half round, the leaves and stems being
rather light green. When blanched, it is a yellowish-
white, crisp, tender, and of a most agreeable nutty flavor.
The great advantage of this, and other dwarf sorts, over
the large kinds, is, that nearly every part of the plant is
fit to eat when blanched ; for instance if in the dwarf va-
rieties the length is only 2 feet, and in large sorts 3 feet,
the extra length of the large sort is unfit for use, being
usually only an elongation of the outer leaves, the heart
or edible part rarely rising more than 18 inches in the
large sorts, while the dwarf sorts may be said to be all
heart. This variety, for fall use, is planted 3 feet be-
tween the rows, by 6 inches between the plants, or nearly
27,000 roots per acre. For winter use, when it does not
require to be " banked," we plant 2 feet between rows,
and 6 inches between plants, or about 40,000 roots per acre.

Boston Market, — A variety very similar to the above,
but rather more robust, though a dwarf variety ; the leaves
are darker green, the stalks when blanched nearly white ;
it is solid, crisp, and tender; an excellent variety.

Dwarf Red,— A variety similar in all respects to the
"Incomparable Dwarf," except in color of the stalks,
•which are of a rosy crimson ; although the flavor of the red
varieties of Celery is acknowledged to be superior to the
white, and the appearance, when blanched certainly far
richer, yet, for some unexplained reason, they do not so
readily sell in our markets. In the London markets, about
equal quantities of each are sold.

Seymour's Superb, — The best of the large-growing

VEGETABLES CELERIAC.

139

sorts, attaining a hight, under good culture, of 3 feet. It
should never be planted closer than 4 feet between the
ro\vs, or it cannot be worked properly. For southern sec-
tions of the country, this variety is more suitable than the
dwarfs, as it grows freer in a hot and dry atmosphere.

CELERIAC, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY.

(Apium graveolens. Var.)

Is grown from
seeds sown in the
same manner, and
planted out at the
same seasons as
directed for Cel-
ery ; but as it re-
quires but a slight
earthing up, it is
planted closer
than ordinary Cel-
ery, 18 inches be-
tween the rows
and 6 inches be-
tween the plants.
It is preserved for
winter use in shal-
low trenches, and
covered up, as
the season ad-
vances, as direct-
ed for Celery. It

Fig. 42. — CELERIAC.

140 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

is as yet grown to but a limited extent here, being used
only by the French and Germans. The Turnip-like root
is cooked, or it is sliced and used with vinegar, making a
most excellent salad.

CHIVES.— (Allium Schcenoprasum.)

A small bulbous-rooted plant of the Onion tribe, en-
tirely hardy and of the easiest culture, as it will grow on
almost any soil for many years without renewal. It is
propagated by division of the root, and may be planted at
9 or 10 inches apart ; the leaves are the parts used, which
may be repeatedly shorn off during the early summer
months. They are sometimes used in soups, but more
generally in the raw state.

CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS.-(*» oliforia.)
A vegetable used as a salad, and sold to a consider
able extent in our markets. It is sown on the first open-
ing of spring, in rows 1 foot apart, and is fit for use in six
or eight weeks from time of sowing. If wanted to come
in early in spring, it is sown in September, covered up
with straw or hay, as soon as cold weather sets in, and is
wintered over exactly as Spinach. The covering is re-
moved in March or April when it starts to grow, and ia
one of our first green vegetables in spring.

CRESS, OR PEPPER GRASS. -(Lepidium sativum.)
Another early spring vegetable, used as a salad, and of
easy culture. It is sown in early spring in rows 1 foot

VEGETABLES — CRESS. 141

apart; as »t runs quickly to seed, succession sowings
should be made every eight or ten days. There are sev
eral varieties, but the kind in general use is the Curled,
which answers the purpose of garnishing as well as for
salads.

CRESS— WATER.— (Nasturtium officinale.)

This is a well-known hardy perennial aquatic plant,
growing abundantly along the margins of running streams,
ditches, and ponds, and sold in immense quantities in our
markets in spring. Where it does not grow naturally, it
is easily introduced by planting along the margins of pond?
or streams, where it quickly increases, both by spreading of
the root and by seeding. Many a farmer, in the vicinity
of New York, realizes more profit from the Water Cress-
es, cut from the margin of a brook running through his
farm, in two or three weeks in spring, than from his
whole year's hard labor in growing Corn, Hay, or Potatoes.

It is usually sold in baskets containing about 3 quarts,
which sell, when first in market, at $1 each ; 200 or 300
such are carried in an ordinary wagon, so that from a sin-
gle load of this simple vegetable, $200 to $300 are realiz-
ed. The Water Cress has a particularly pleasant pungent
taste, agreeable to most people in early spring.

It is said, that when Sir Joseph Banks first arrived in
England after his voyage around the world, among the
first things he asked for were Water Cresses, well know-
ing their value as a purifier of the blood ; and that he af-
terwards presented one of the largest Water Cress grow-

142 GARDETS1NG FOR PROFIT.

ers for the London market a Banksian Medal, for energy
shown in the business, believing that while he had benefit-
ed himself, he had benefited the community. I have no
doubt whatever, that, in situations where irrigation could
be used at pleasure, and regular plantations made as for
Cranberries, that, grown in this way, — judging from the
enormous price they sell at, picked up as th*ey are in the
present hap-hazard way — at present prices, an acre would
sell for $4000 or $5000.

COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS.— (Brassica oleracea.)
Collards, as grown in this country, are nothing more than
sowings of any early variety of Cabbage, in rows about
one foot apart, which are cut off for use when 6 or 8
inches high. Spring sowings may be made every two
weeks from April to June ; and in fall from September, as
late as the season will admit. I have never seen them
sold in our markets.

Mays.)

The varieties known as " Sweet," are the sorts most
cultivated for culinary use in the green state. It may be
either sown in rows 4| feet apart, and the seeds planted at
8 or 9 inches in the rows, or planted in hills at distances
of 3 or 4 feet each way, according to the variety grown
or the richness of the soil in which it is planted. The
taller the variety, or richer the soil, the greater should be

VEGETABLES CORN. 143

tbe distance apart. The soil best suited for Com, for an
early crop, is a well enriched sandy loam. The planting
should never be done until the weather is settled and
warm, as heat is indispensable to the healthy growth of
Corn. We make our first plantings, in this vicinity, about
the middle of May, and continue succession plantings ev-
ery tAVO or thr*ee weeks until the first week in July, which
date is the latest at which we can plant and be sure of a crop
of " roasting ears." In more southerly latitudes, planting
is begun a month earlier, and continued a monl.h later.
The crop is not profitable enough for the market garden,
but the farmers realize double the price for Sweet Corn
when sold in the green state in our markets, that they do
for ripe Corn, besides, as the ground can be cleared when
thus sold in August, it can be used afterwards for Turnips
as a second crop. A profit of from $50 to $100 is said
to be realized per acre from Sweet Corn.

The most popular variety is :

Early Darling, which is early, of good size, and under
good cultivation, gives an average of three ears on each
stalk. It is tender and sweet ; as this sort is rather dwarf
growing, it need never be planted more than 3 feet apart.

Dwarf Prolific Sugar. — This variety rarely grows
more than 4 or 5 feet in hight, suckering up from the main
stem, often five or six shoots, — which bear an average of
two ears each ; these, however, are small, not more than 5
01 6 inches in length, and quite slender. It is too small
for market purposes, but is the most valuable variety
grown for family use, being early, tender, sweet, and pro-
ductive. We prefer to grow this variety in rows 3 feet
apart, and 1 foot between the plants.

144 GARDENING FOB PROFIT.

Asylum Sugar,— A large late variety of tall growth,
used to succeed the earlier sorts ; it is productive, and has
every desirable quality except earliness. Should be
planted in hills 4 feet by 3.

StOWClPs Evergreen, — Also a late variety, having the
peculiarity of remaining longer in the green state than
any other sorts ; on this account it is very popular.

CUCUMBER.— (Gucumis sativus.)

The growing of the Cucumber out-of-doors is, in most
places, attended with a great deal of annoyance and
loss, occasioned by the attacks of the " Striped Bug."
When the seed is sown in the open ground, repeated sow-
ings are often utterly destroyed by this pest, despite of
all remedies. To avoid this, and at the same time te
forward the crop at least a week, we have long adopted
the following method, with the greatest success. About
the middle of May, (for this section), we cut from a pas-
ture lot, sods from 2 to 3 inches thick, these are placed with
the grassy side down, either on the benches of our forcing
house, in an exhausted hot-bed, or inside of a cold frame ;
at that season of the year any one of these will do as
well as another. The sods being fitted together neatly
so that all crevices are filled up ; they are then cut into
squares about 3 or 4 inches in length and breadth ; on each
of these are planted 2 or 3 seeds of Cucumber, and ovei
the whole is sifted about half an inch of covering of some
light rich mold. They are then sprinkled thoroughly from

VEGETABLES CUCUMBER. 145

a Rose Watering-pot, and the sashes put on, and kept close
until the seeds begin to germinate, which will be in three
or four days. As soon as they are up, the sashes must be
raised to admit air, else the sun's rays, acting on the glass,
would raise the temperature too high ; at that season of
the year the sashes, as a rule, may be tilted up at 8 or 9
o'clock in the morning, and shut down by 3 or 4 o'clock
in the afternoon. By the time the Cucumber plants have
attained two or three of their rough leaves, which will be
in about three weeks from the time of sowing, they are
planted out in the open ground in hills 3 feet apart each
way. The hills should have been previously prepared, by
mixing thoroughly with the soil in each, a shovelful of
well-rotted manure.

It is always better to plant in the afternoon, rather than
during the early part of the day, as the coolness and mois-
ture at night, enable the plants to recuperate from the ef-
fects of removal. If the weather is hot and dry, it is safer
to give each hill a thorough watering once, immediately
after planting. I have recommended sods in preference to
flower-pots for starting the Cucumbers, inasmuch as they
are not only procurable in all places, but our experience
.s, «,hat the sod is even better than the flower-pot ; it better
retains moisture, and there is a freshness about sod in
svhich the roots of all plants love to revel, and which no
composts we can prepare can ever equal. It will be seen
that the expense of growing Cucumbers, in this manner, is
considerable; to grow enough for an acre — about 5000
hills — it will require the use of at least 20, 3 x 6 sashes, and
the preparation of the sod, and attention in airing, etc.,
until they are fit to plant, will involve ten times more ex-
7

146 GARDENING FOK PROMT.

pense than simply sowing the seed in the hills; but all
such expenditures are well returned, for it is safe to say,
that the profits would always be at least three times more
by this plan than by the other. The average receipts are
^750 per acre ; working expenses probably $250, and the
crop is off in time for Turnips or Spinach as a second crop.

The Cucumber is a vegetable perhaps better fitted than
any other for southern market gardeners. There is no
doubt, that by the forwarding process above described, it
could be got in marketable condition in the neighborhood
of Charleston or Savannah, at least a month before it
could in New York, and as it is one of the easiest things
we have to ship, a profitable business could be made of
growing it to send North. The profits on an acre of Cu-
cumbers, grown by this method in Charleston, and sold in
New York in June, would, I think, exceed the average
profits of fifty acres of Cotton.

Cucumbers are also extensively grown for pickling;
hundreds of acres being used for this purpose in the vi-
cinity of New York, especially in Westchester County.
Sod or stubble land, plowed in early fall, and again turned
over twice or thrice in spring, is the condition of soil usu-
ally chosen. The ground is marked out as for Corn, 4
feet each way, and a good shovelful of well-rotted manure,
dug in at the angle which forms the hill ; the seed is sown —
about a dozen in each hill — usually about the 20th of June,
out equally good crops can be obtained by sowings made
as late as the middle of July. The average price of late
years has been $1.50 per 1000, and the number grown per
acre on properly cultivated lands, is 150,000, which is $225
gross receipts per acre. The expense of raising are said

VEGETABLES CUCUMBER. 147

to be about one-half. These profits would not satisfy the
market gardener on his few valuable acres near the city,
but, no doubt, are remunerative enough to the farmers,
with large quantities of cheap land.

The varieties are numerous, and embrace many very
well marked kinds. The large growing kinds that attain
2 feet or more in length, have never become favorites in
our American markets.

White Spined. — Belongs to the short growing section,
is of medium size, from 6
to 8 inches in length and
2 to 3 inches in diameter ;
Fi:r. 13. -WHITE SPIN-ED CUCUMBER, it is a very handsome va-
riety, deep green, flesh crisp, and of fine flavor. The va-
riety almost exclusively grown for market in New York.

Early Frame. — A very handsome small growing vari-
ety, rarely exceeding 5 inches in length, and has fewer
spines than the preceding. It is often a question whether
this or the White Spined is most desirable, so that of late
years we have grown about an equal quantity of each for
forcing or forwarding under glass.

Gherkin* — This variety, used exclusively for pickling,
botanists distinguish as a species distinct from the common
Cucumber ; it is very small, length from 2 to 3 inches ; a
strong growing sort, and should be planted 5 feet apart.

Manchester Prize, — An extremely handsome variety,
extensively grown in England ; it is very dark green, hav-
ing tubercular excrescences at the base of the spines, reg-
ularly over its whole surface, except 3 or 4 inches at the
extremities, which are smooth , it is of the largest size,
growing upwards of 2 feet in length.

148 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

Long Green Turkey,— This is a very distinct sort,
slightly curved at the stem, measuring, when full grown,
15 or 16 inches ; it is perhaps the firmest and best flavored
of alt Cucumbers, and as it has but few seeds, can be used
older than most others.

Early Cluster. — A much esteemed early variety, grow
ing in clusters and extremely productive ; its color is blue-
ish-green, shading lighter at the extremities.

EGG PLANT.— (Solanum Melongena.)

The cultivation of the Egg Plant, from its extreme ten-
derness, is, in its early stage, attended perhaps with more
trouble than any vegetable of our gardens. A native of
Tropical America, it at all times requires a high tempera-
ture ; for this reason, in this latitude, the seeds had better
not be sown in the hot-bed until first week in April, and
even then a steady bottom heat is necessary to a healthy
development, and there should be warm covering at night
over the sashes. I have always found that in tender
plants of this kind, there was nothing gained by starting
early, even though by great care the plants are carried
through the cold season. By the time they can be planted
in the open ground, about June first, those started first
of March, would be no larger than those started first of
April, besides being harder both in roots and leaves, in
which condition they are far inferior to the younger plants
that have been raised with less than half the labor.

The soil in which Egg Plants are to be grown can
hardly be too rich, for it is a plant that will generally re

VEGETABLES — EGG PLANT. 149

pay good treatment. They are planted from 2 to 3 feet
apart, according to the degree of richness of soil ; in the
fertile market gardens never less than 3 feet. Although
their sale is comparatively limited, yet from the difficul-
ties often experienced in raising the plants, all that are
offered, are sold at good prices ; the average is about $1
per dozen, each plant producing six to nine full-sized fruit.
It is more important with this vegetable to select the
proper variety for growing, than with any other that I
know ; for that reason we are chary of touching any other
sort for market purposes than the

York Improved, — This is readily distinguishable
from either the " Large Round "
or "Long Purple" varieties, in
the plant being more robust in all
its parts, the leaves and stems also
being thickly studded with spines,
which are not
to any extent on
the other vari-
eties, but the

Fijr. 44.-N. Y. DROVED g^t merit it

EGG PLANT. has over the oth-

ers is its uniform productiveness. I grew

from 1000 to 3000 Egg Plants for mar-
Fig. 45.— LONG

ket for over a dozen of years, but never EGG PLANT.
had a paying crop Avith any other sort except the New
York Improved.

Long Purple. — Different in shape from the foregoing ;
sometimes deep purple, and again pale, with white or yel-
lowish stripes.

150 GAEDENING FOE PEOFTT.

It is claimed that this is earlier than the preceding, but
this we are not willing to concede, for all our experience
with them, to the best "of my recollection was, that neither
this or any other variety than the New York Improved,
ever proved worthy of cultivation, in our vicinity at least.

Scarlet-fruited Egg Plant,— This is more grown as a
curious ornamental plant than for culinary use, the fruit is
about the size and shape of a duck egg, of beautiful scarlet.

White-fruited Egg Plant. — Similar in growth to the
scarlet, but the fruit is larger, and of an ivory whiteness.
It is good when cooked, but much less productive, and like
the Scarlet, is grown more for curiosity and ornament.

ENDIVE.— (Gichorium Endivia.)

The cultivation of this vegetable for market purposes is
not yet extensive, it being used by few except our Ger-
man and French population. It is, however, offered now
by the wagon load, where a few years ago a few basket-
fuls would have supplied all the demand. Like all other
vegetables that are grown in limited quantities, it com-
mands a high price, and the few who do raise it find it
very profitable.

Like Lettuce, it may be sown at any time from early
Bpring until August, and perfect its crop the season of
sowing. As it is used almost exclusively in the fall
months, the main sowings are made in June and July,
from which plantations are formed, at 1 foot part each
way, in August and September. It requires no special

VEGETABLES — ETSTDIVE. 151

soil or manure, and after planting, it is kept clear of
weeds by hoeing and weeding, until the plant has attained
its full size, when the process of blanching begins ; for it is
never used except when blanched, as it is harsh and bit-
ter in the green state. Blanching is effected by gath-
ering up the leaves, and tying them up by their tips in a
conical form, with bass matting. This excludes the light
and air from the inner leaves, which in the course of three
to six weeks, according to the temperature at the time,
become blanched.

Another method is much simpler and quicker, and is the
one mostly practised by those who grow Endive for mar-
ket ; it consists simply in covering up the plants as they
grow, with slates or boards, which serves the same pur-
pose, by excluding the light, as the tying up. The aver-
age price during the months of October, November, and
December, is $1 per dozen.

The best sorts are the following:

Green Curled, — This is not only one of the most use-
ful as a salad, but is highly ornamental from its delicately
cut and curled leaves ; it is much used for garnishing.

MOSS Curled. — This variety is as yet scarce, but no doubt
it will soon be extensively cultivated. From the density
of the foliage, the plant is heavier than the Green Curled,
is equally agreeable as a salad, and its appearance, either
green or blanched, is particularly handsome.

Broad-leaved Batavian. — A loose growing variety,
forming but little heart. As with this blanching can only
be accomplished by tying up, it is not so desirable as
either of the preceding.

152 GABDENING FOE PKOFIT.

White Curled. — This, as the name indicates, has white
or light foliage ; it is more tender than the Green ; it can-
not be recommended except as an ornamental variety.

GARLIC.— (Allium sativum.}

Another vegetable used mostly by foreigners. It is of
the easiest culture, growing freely on any soil suitable for
Onions. It is propagated by divisions of the bulb, called
" cloves," or " sets." These are planted in early spring, in
rows, 1 foot apart, and from 4 to 6 inches between the
plants in the rows. The crop matures in August, when it
is harvested like the Onion. It is always sold in the dry
state.

HORSERADISH. —(Nasturtium Armoracia.)

This root is now one of the most important we raise in
our market gardens, upwards of two hundred acres of it
being grown in the vicinity of New York alone, and for
the last half dozen years there has been nothing grown
from which we have realized more profit as a second crop*
It is always grown as a second crop in the following
manner :

In preparing the roots for market during winter, all the
email rootlets are broken off and reserved for planting,
leaving nothing but the main root, which is usually from

VEGETABLES HORSERADISH. 153

12 to 15 inches long, and weighing about three-quar-
ters of a pound. The rootlets, or sets, are cut into pieces
of from 4 to 6 inches in length, from one-quarter to
one-half in diameter ; these are tied in bundles of 50 or 60,
the top end being cut square an 1 the bottom end slant-
ing, (fig. 45), so that in planting there will be no danger

of setting the root
upside down; for al-

Fig. 46.-HOBSERADISH SET. though it WOuld gFOW,

if planted thus, it would not make a handsome root.
The sets, when prepared, are stowed away in boxes of
sand, care being taken that a sufficiency of sand is put be-
tween each layer of bundles to prevent their heating.
They may either be kept in the boxes in a cool cellar, or
pitted in the open ground, as may be most convenient.
We prefer the open ground, when the weather will per-
mit. I have said that Horseradish is always cultivated as
a second crop ; with us, it usually succeeds our Early Cab-
bage, Cauliflower, or Beets. Thus, we plant Early Cab-
bage, lining out the ground with the one foot marker; on ev-
ery alternate line are first planted Cabbages, which stand,
when planted, at 2 feet between the rows, and 16 or 18
inches between the plants. We always finish our entire
planting before we put in the Horseradish, which delays it
generally to about 1st of May ; it is then planted between
he rows of Cabbage, and at about the same distance as the
Cabbage is in the rows, giving about 12,000 or 13,000
plants per acre. The planting is performed by making a
hole, about 8 or 10 inches deep, with a long planting stick
or light crowbar, into which is dropped the Horseradish set,
so that its top will be 2 or 3 inches under the surface ; if
7*

154 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

the sets should be longer, the hole should be made pro-
portionally deep, so that the top of the set be not nearer the
surface than 2 or 3 inches ; the earth is pressed in along-
side the set, so as to fill up the hole as in ordinary plant-
ing. The main reason for planting the set so far under
the surface, is, to delay its coming up until the crop of
Cabbage be cleared off; the Horseradish makes its main
growth in the fall, so that it is no injury to it to keep it
from growing until July ; in fact it often happens that by
being planted too near the surface, or too early, it starts to
grow so as to interfere with the Cabbage crop ; in such
cases we have often to cut the tops off twice by the hoe,
before the Cabbage is ready, but this does not injure it in
the least. It is a crop with which there is very little labor
during summer ; after the Cabbage has been cut off, the
Horseradish is allowed to grow at will, and as it quickly
covers the ground, one good deep hoeing is all that is re-
quired after digging out the Cabbage stumps. When
grown between Early Beets, the culture is, in all respects,
the same, only it is more profitable to have the rows of
Beets only 18 inches apart ; this of course throws the
Horseradish nearer, so that when planted between Beets,
it should be planted at the distance of 2 feet between the
plants in the rows.

As it is an entirely hardy plant, it is one of the last
roots we dig up in fall, it being usually delayed until De
cember. After digging, the small roots are usually broken
off in the field and stowed away in boxes, so that they
can be trimmed under cover at leisure. The main root is
then put away in the pits, as recommended in Winter
Preservation of Vegetables, so that it can be got at as re

VEGETABLES — HORSERADISH.

155

quired during winter. The preparation for market is very
simple, being merely to cut off the green tops and small
rootlets, leaving the main root only, as represented, in
reduced size, by fig. 47. It is sold by weight, and is
generally washed, which is done suffici-
ently by rinsing a quantity of it together
in a large tub.

Our manner of growing Horseradish
in this district, we claim to be a great
advance on the methods practised in
general. All American writers on the
subject, that I have seen, follow in the
same track and recommend planting the
crowns. This would not only destroy
the most salable part of the root, but
when planted thus, the crowns will pro-
duce only a sprawling lot of rootlets, that
are utterly unsalable in the market.

They also tell us, that "after two
seasons growth the roots will be fit for use." Now,
my experience in growing this root, has most emphati-
cally told me that after two seasons growth it is entirely
unfit for use, or at least unfit for sale, which I suppose is
about the same thing. A few years ago, one of my neigh-
bors had a patch of about two acres, which from some
cause or other he had neglected to have dug until late in
spring, and concluded, as it was then rather late to sell
it, he would leave it to grow over until next season. On
commencing to dig it the next fall, he found that the main
root, instead of being solid, as it is at one year old, had be-
come partially hollow, and of a woody, stringy nature,

Fig. 47 HORSE-
RADISH.

156 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

and when offered to manufacturers, it was refused av
any price. So there was no help for it, but dig up and
throw away his entirely worthless crop at a most unu-
sual expense, as its two year's. growth had massed the
whole soil with roots. This experiment of my neighbor
jras a loss to him of certainly not less than $1500.

Grown in the deep rich soil of our market gardens, Horse-
radish has been for the past twenty years one of our most
profitable second crops, and as an encouragement to begin-
ners, I will state that the price has, in this, as with most other
vegetables, steadily advanced, showing that, even with in-
creased competition, there has been more than correspond-
ingly increased consumption. The price for five years,
ending 1854, did not average more than $70 per ton ; from
that time to 1860 about $120 per ton ; and from 1860 to
1866 fully 8200 per ton. Of course the prices these latei
years were inflated, yet still the proportion is higher for
this than for any other vegetable. Our average weight
per acre is five tons, or a little over three-quarters of a
pound per root for 12,000 planted. It has always been a
surprise to me how the price has kept up, in view of its
easy and safe, culture. But there is one thing to be re-
membered; these heavy crops are only obtained in our
gardens that are in the highest state of culture, no ordi
nary farm land, the first season, manure it as you might,
will produce such results.

VEGETABLES — KOHLKABI. 157

KOHLRABI, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE.

(Bmsisica oleracea. Var.)

In general appearance, this vegetable more resembles a
Ruta Baga Turnip than a Cabbage, though it is more gen-
erally classed with the latter. It is best cultivated by
sowing the seeds in rows in May, June, or July, accord-
ing to latitude. In this district we sow throughout June,
for succession, in rows 18 inches apart, thinning out to
about 8 or 10 inches between the plants. It is rather dif-
ficult to transplant, and we gen-
erally prefer to sow the whole
crop from seed, and thin it out
where it stands ; although when
the weather is suitable, the thin-
nings may be planted at the dis-
tances above named. It is sold
in our markets in fall in the
green state, in bunches contain-
ing three roots, at an average

Fig. 43.— KOHLBABI. price of $1 per dozen bunches.
As it is not in general use, its sale is limited. The vari-
eties mostly cultivated are

Early White, — The bulbs are greenish- white outside;
flesh white and tender, while young. The best condition
for use is when the root is from 3 to 4 inches in diameter ;
if younger, it partakes too much of the taste of the Cab-
bage, and when older it is dry and stringy. The best
market sort.

Large Purple,— Almost identical with the preceding,
except in color, which is a blueish-purple.

158 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

LEEK.— (Allium Porrum.)

The Leek is another vegetable that is exclusively grown
as a second crop. The seed is sown in April in rows 1
foot apart, in ground well prepared as recommended for
the Celery seed bed ; and like all seed beds, it is kept
scrupulously clear of weeds. The best time of planting
is the same as that for all our second crops ; during July,
or as soon as the first or spring crop can be cleared off.
The ground can hardly be too rich for Leeks, and when
time will allow, we always contrive to get in a slight ad-
ditional coat of manure for this crop ; the spring dressing,
large as it always is, hardly being sufficient. The ground
being well prepared by plowing and harrowing, lines are
marked out by the marker at 1 foot apart, and the Leeks
planted on each line at 5 or 6 inches apart ; we do not
earth up, but instead plant rather deeply. As it is a plant
the foliage of which is but little spreading, great care
must be taken that weeds are never allowed to get ahead,
for if they do, they may soon entirely envelope the crop
to its total destruction.

It is a vegetable -used mostly in winter and spring, and
requires to be dug up, in this vicinity, in November, as
otherwise it would be injured by our severe winters, but
in milder sections it is better left standing where it grew ;
it is quite a hardy vegetable, so that 20 or 25 degrees be
low freezing will not injure it. It is preserved, by the
market gardeners here, in trenches, exactly as Celery it
preserved; see chapter on Celery. Large quantities are
sold in our^northern markets, at fairly remunerative rates,
although from the nature of the plant, it requires perhaps

VEGETABLES LETTUCE.

159

more labor than any other vegetable to prepare it
for market. Figure 49 represents the Musselburgh
Leek, trimmed previous to being
bunched up for market. From
six to eight roots are tied in
each bunch, which bring in the
market, upon an average, through-
out the season, about 75 cents
per dozen bunches. We plant
about 85,000 plants on an acre.

The two varieties used, are
known as Musselburgh and Lon-
don Flag. The former is rath-
er preferred in market, being

Fig. 49,-MussELBURGH USU:llly larger, but there is but
LEEK. little choice between them.

LETTUCE.— (Lactuca

Perhaps there is no plant of the garden that we could so
ill afford to dispense with as Lettuce. Its cultivation is uni-
versal, by all classes, and from its tractable nature and
freedom from nearly all insects and diseases, it is manage-
able in the hands of every one. In a well appointed mar-
ket garden, it is the most important vegetable cultivated,
engaging our attention throughout the entire year, either
in the open ground in summer, in forcing houses or hot-
beds in winter, or in cold frames in spring. As our mode
of growing it under glass is sufficiently described in treat-

160 GAKDENING FOE PROFIT.

ing of pits, frames, etc., I will in this place confine myself
to our system of cultivating it out of doors.

For our main early crop, that is sold from the open
ground in the latter part of May or first of June, the seed
is sown the previous season in the open ground, from the
15th to 25th of September. These plants are usually
large enough to be planted in frames in four or five weeks
later, as recommended for Cabbage plants, about 600 or
700 being planted in a 3x6 sash. Occasionally we sow
them in the frame in fall, and do not transplant them, as it
saves a great amount of labor, but they are not quite so
good plants unless transplanted, as it is difficult to sow
them so that they come up at the regular degree of thick-
ness. The winter treatment of Lettuce plants is similar
in all respects as described for Cabbage plants. In dry,
well sheltered spots, by covering up with leaves or litter,
late in the season, say middle of December, Lettuce plants
may be saved over winter without glass covering, and in
southern parts of the country, without difficulty. Like most
plants that we term hardy, 20 degrees of frost will not in-
jure them. The plants for setting out in spring, are also
sown iu cold frames in February, and in hot-beds in March,
and by careful covering up at night, make plants to set
out in April ; but these are never so good as those win-
tered over, and it can only be recommended where cir
cumstances do not permit the other method. To econo-
mize, not only in space, but in manure, we make every foot
of our gardens available, so that when we come to plant
out our Lettuce in March or April, instead of planting it
in a bed exclusively for itself, it is planted at the same
time and between the rows of Early Cabbage or Cauli-

VEGETABLES — LETTUCE. 161

flower, which are set at 2 feet apart. The Lettuce matures
its crop in half the time that it takes for the Cabhage, and
is consequently all cut off and marketed before the Cabbage
is half grown. If it were not so, they could not be both
grown at once on the same ground, for, when the Cabbage
erop attains its growth, it requires the full space allowed
— 2 feet — for its development.

This early crop of Lettuce from the open ground is con-
sidered rather an auxiliary than a main one, it meets with
a rapid sale at an average of $1.50 per 100 heads. Rath-
er a low price it may be thought ; but growers, having
only ten acres of ground, not unfrequently plant over
100,000 heads. It is planted somewhat closer than Cab-
bage, usually about 15,000 per acre. For succession crops
of Lettuce, sowings may be made in the open ground as
early as spring opens, until July. When not planted be-
tween Cabbage, they are set at 1 foot apart each way.
They are sold to some extent throughout the whole sum-
mer, but the great weight of the crop is sold about the
first week of June, in New York markets. The summer
price of Lettuce is very variable, as the supply is often
irregular — it may average $2 per 100.

The varieties of Lettuce used for the different purposes
of forwarding and forcing, and for out-door culture in
spring and summer, are of more importance than with most
vegetables. I once lost almost my entire crop of Frame
Lettuce, from planting, the Curled India, a summer vari-
ety, instead of the Curled Silesia, which I had got from a
well meaning but not very learned friend, whose hiero-
glyphics had got transposed.

Early Curled Simpson,— This variety we place at the

162 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

head of the list, believing it to be most generally useful
for all purposes. It is a sub-variety of the Curled Silesia,
rather more curled, and having more of a yellow shade of
green ; it is the kind which is planted in cold frames al-
most exclusively, and is also largely grown as an early
open air variety between the Cabbage crop. This vari
ety, properly speaking, does not head, but forms a compact
close mass of leaves. This condition of maturity is at-
tained quicker than in varieties that form firm heads,
which gives it the great desideratum — earliness.

furled Silesia. — A variety extensively sold in all seed-
stores, but we believe the preceding to be an improvement
upon it. The Curled Silesia is darker green, rather less
curled, and does not mature quite so early as the Simpson.

Green Winter Lettuce, — This, next to the Brown
Dutch, is the hardiest of all varieties, and for that reason
it is always largely grown ; many of the other varieties
failing in our frames in winter, while this comes through
unscathed. It is not much used for forcing, unless when
we are obliged to resort to it by having lost the others.
When fully matured, it forms a solid head.

Tennis Ball, — A favorite forcing variety, and, as the
names indicates, forming a hard head ; it makes few outer
leaves, and for this reason can be planted quite closely
under glass, from 6 to 7 inches apart. It is the variety
mainly used in our hot-bed and forcing pits.

Black-seeded Butter, — A variety similar to the Tenni
Ball, but larger in all its parts, forming heads in the open
ground often 14 inches in diameter, and averaging fully
a pound in weight. We use it extensively as an early out-
door variety, and also to some extent in our cold frames.

VEGETABLES — MARJORAM. 163

Curled India. — This we consider to be by far the best
of the curled sorts for hot weather ; it forms an immense
head, often 16 inches in diameter, and as solid as a Cab-
bage.

IVe Plus Ultra. — A new variety with plain leaves, which
for the past two seasons, has proved particularly adapted
for hot weather ; it forms a large solid head, and is a very
tender sort.

Paris Green COS.— Although the Cos varieties of Let-
tuce are not so suitable for our climate, yet they are so
much superior in flavor, that they are occasionally grown
in early spring and fall for private use, though I have
never seen them in our markets. In shape, they differ en-
tirely from the other varieties, the head being elongated
and of a conical form, 5 or 6 inches in diameter, and 8 or
9 inches in hight. The present variety is deep green. To
be had in perfection, it requires to be tied up to ensure
blanching.

Brown COS. — Similar to the above, except in its outer
coloring, which is brownish-green. This variety is said to
have been cultivated in England for half a century, and is
still one of the favorite sorts.

MARJORAM.— SWEET.— (Origanum Marjwam.)
A well-known aromatic herb, grown to a considerabl
extent for market purposes ; but as it is of less impor-
tance than Thyme, which is grown very largely for sale,
the reader is referred to that head for all information re-
garding its culture, price, etc., as in these particulars they
are entirely identical.

164 GABDKNING FOE PROFIT

MELON.— MUSK.— (Cucumis Melo.)

The Melon is not cultivated in the vicinity of New
York, in the market gardens proper, but to a large extent
in what may be called the farm-gardens of Long Island
and New Jersey. There it is grown almost in the same
manner as they grow Corn, planting about the same tune,
and cultivating in the same manner, and often with but
very little more profit per acre than a crop of Corn. But
the Melon is a fruit easily shipped, and when grown by
the forwarding process we detail for Cucumbers — by
planting the seeds on sods under glass — there is no ques-
tion but that it can be made equally profitable in all re-
spects with the Cucumber, when grown in southern lati-
tudes for our northern markets ; although like many other
fruits and vegetables so easily raised, it can never be ex
pected to be profitable if used in the district in which it
is grown. It is a plant not at all particular as to soil, pro-
vided it be not wet or heavy ; moderately enriched light
soils are those most congenial to it.

For open field culture, they should be planted in hills 6
feet each way, incorporating well with the soil, in each
hill, a couple of shovelfuls of thoroughly rotted manure.
Sow four or five seeds in each hill,* and cultivate afterwards
as for Corn. Too much care cannot be used in saving the

* The term, 'hill," when used here and elsewhere, means but a slight, jt
ny, elevation of the surface, anil is used only as a convenient term to denote
where the seed or plant Is to be planted. But from the signification of the
word, it naturally leads the novice in gardening into very serious error, by caus-
ing him to think he must literally raise a hill on which to sow or plant, and in
consequence we too frequently see plants elevated on little knolls a foot or more
above the general surface, from which the rain slides, and on which the sun beats
to their utter destruction.

VEGETAULES MELON. 165

seeds of all plants of this class, as they cross A ery readily ;
for this reason, when seeds are to be saved from any par-
ticular variety, care must be taken that it is widely re-
moved from any other — not less than 100 yards. If seed
is not wanted, improper crossing will make no difference
to the fruit that season, but the seed — the product of
that crop — will be affected thereby, and its impurity de-
veloped when fruit is raised from it.

From the facility with which the Melon intermixes, it
follows that the varieties are very numerous, and for the
same reason it is difficult to retain varieties pure. The fol-
lowing seem to be the most fixed in character, and are
the sorts in general use.

Green Citron. — Fruit medium size, deeply netted ; in
shape almost round, varying from 6 to 8 inches in diam-
eter; flesh green, and of rich delicious flavor. It is the
leading mai'ket variety at the North. In selecting for
seed or for use, the most netted specimens should always
be chosen, as they are always vastly superior in flavor to
those with smooth skin.

Borneo. — Rather a new variety, which promises to be-
come very popular. It is of large size, nearly double that
of the preceding, of a roundish oval shape, deeply ribbed
and netted ; flesh yellowish-green ; of excellent flavor.

Nutmeg. — Fruit, nutmeg-shaped. Skin deep green,
finely and thickly netted; flesh greenish-yellow, rich and
sugary, in flavor second to none. It is extensively groAvn
in private gardens, but is thought not to be quite so pro-
ductive as the Citron for market.

White Japan. — A very distinct sort, deeply ribbed,
slightly netted with skin of a yellowish white ; flesh yel-

166 GABDENIXG FOB PROFIT.

low, melting, and richly flavored. A recently introduced
variety of great merit.

Skillman's Netted, — Form roundish oval; flesh deep
green, sweet, and richly perfumed. A variety much
esteemed for forcing, as it is closer growing than most
other sorts, and also one of the earliest.

Persian Ispahan , — A most valuable variety for the
more Southern States, although entirely too late for this
vicinity, unless forwarded previously under glass before
planting out. It is oval, of the largest size, averaging a
foot in length, with a diameter in its greatest thickness
of 8 inches. Skin smooth, and when fully ripe, of a light
yellow ; flesh yellowish white, having a rich perfume and
delicious flavor.

Christiana. — A comparatively recent variety that has
hardly come up to first expectations ; it is reddish yellow
fleshed, very sweet, but without the rich flavor of the
green-fleshed sorts. However, its inferiority in flavor, is
compensated by its greater earliness, but wherever the
green-fleshed varieties mature, the red or yellow fleshed
need never be grown.

MELON.— WATER.— (Oitrullus milgans.)

Like the Musk Melon, when cultivated for sale, this is
essentially a plant more suited for the farm than the gar-
den, as it requires even more space in which to grow. The
soil best suited to it is a rather sandy loam ; heavier soils
being apt to induce a too strong growth of leaves. It

VEGETABLES — MELON. 167

should be planted about the same time, and cultivated
in all respects the same as the Musk Melon, only that the
hills should not be less than 8 feet apart. It is gro'.vn in
immense quantities on the light sandy soils of New Jer-
sey, for the New York and Philadelphia markets, in which
it is said to give a profit of from $100 to $200 per acre.
But it is in the vicinity of our southern cities, Charleston,
Savannah, etc., where we have regular steamboat commu-
nication, that these tropical fruits can be grown at a high
rate of profit to the cultivator.

Water Melons, grown in the vicinity of Charleston, in
July of this year, were sold by the thousand in New
York, to the consumer, at $1 each ; while those grown in
southern Jersey, in August or September, were a drug at
15 cents and 25 cents. The leading varieties are as fol-
lows :

Mountain Sprout. — An old and well-known variety,
and still the leading market sort. It is of the largest size,
longish oval; skin dark green, marbled with lighter
shades; red fleshed; of excellent quality. A greater
weight can be raised per acre of this than of any other
variety.

Black Spanish. — Fruit medium, almost round; skin dark
green ; flesh red ; sweet and delicious. It is a great favor-
ite in private gardens, and is claimed to be earlier than
he preceding.

Ice Cream. — A round white-fleshed variety of good
flavor, but not equal to the red-fleshed. It matures 10
days earlier, however, and on that account is worth culti-
vating in the Northern or Eastern States, where the sea-
son for the finer sorts is too short.

168 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

Orange. — So called from its peculiarity of tlie flesh
separating from the rind when fully ripe ; it is below me-
dium size ; flesh red ; sugary, but coarse grained ; inferior
to many others.

Citron Water Melon, — Outwardly a very handsome
fruit of small size, but not worth growing as a ripened
fruit. It is used to some extent for making sweetmeats,
for which purpose it is alone cultivated.

MINT.— (Mentha viridis.')

A hardy perennial plant, found growing in abundance
along the roadsides in many places. It is often grown in gar-
dens, however, and is used in soups, sauces, salads, etc., very
generally. It is of the easiest culture. It is increased by
divisions of the root, and planted at distances of a foot
apart ; it quickly forms a mass, which may be cut from
for many years without renewal. It is grown to a con
siderable extent in hot-beds and forcing pits, in the same
way as Lettuce, and sold in the markets in early spring.
Its treatment there is very simple, being merely to lift
up the roots in solid mass, placing them on the 3 or 4
inches of earth in the hot-bed or bench of the forcing
house, and water freely as soon as it begins to grow
The sale is not large, but growers realize about $15 pe
sash, (3x6), for what is thus grown throughout winter
and spring.

VEGETABLES - MARTYNIA.

A vegetable used to a considerable extent for pickling,
the pods or fruit of which are produced in the greatest

50. — MARTTSIA.

abundance. It is cultivated by sowing in open ground,
in April or May, and transplanting to 2 feet each way, in
June ; it is fit for use in July and August.

170 GAEDBNmG FOE PROFIT.

MUSTARD.— (Sinapis alia, and 8.

Is used for culinary purposes as a salad, usually in con*
junction with Cress. For this purpose it may be had
throughout the entire season, by sowing during winter in
hot-beds or forcing pits, and, on the opening of spring, in
the open ground, where, by sowing at intervals of two or
three weeks, it may be had in proper condition for use
throughout the year. Sow thickly in rows, 1 foot apart,
on any soil.

White Mustard, — This is the variety mostly used as a
salad ; the seeds are bright yellow, and are used in the
manufacture of the mustard of commerce.

Black Mustard. — This variety is hardly distinguishable
from the preceding, except in the color of its seeds, which
are dark-brown ; they are used for medicinal purposes, and
also in manufacture of Mustard.

MUSHROOM. — (Agaricus campestris.)

I know of no vegetable which has such a novelty and
interest to the beginner, as the cultivation of the Mush-
room. In all other vegetables he sees something tangible
to start with — seeds, plants, or roots ; but here, we may al-
most say he sees neither, for the seeds cannot be seen with
the naked eye, and it requires an unusual effort of the im-
agination, to believe the white moldy subtance we call
spawn, to be either plants or roots. There are so many
different systems of growing the Mushroom, detailed in
most of the works on gardening, that the reader is too

VEGETABLES - MUSHROOM.

171

often bewildered in choosing a guide. In this, I will only
detail one method, which I have practised for many years
with unfailing success. To make the cultivation of the
Mushroom profitable, it must be done in a building, either
specially erected for the purpose, or in some shed, stable,
or cellar, already on the premises, and which can be con-
verted to that use. The most suitable place, in establish-
ments having green-houses, vineries, or forcing pits, are
the back sheds, usually erected over the boiler pits, such
as are shown in the plans of
forcing pits in this work.
But such an erection is not
indispensable ; any place,
where a temperature from
40° to 60° can be sustained
during winter, will suit.

We have also grown them
under the stages of our
green-houses, but our " mod-
ern improvements " of late
years, allow us no longer
room for the operation there. The time of beginning
may be any time during winter ; we have usually begun
our preparations about December 1st, which brought our
beds into bearing about February 1st, at the season that
Mushrooms begin to be most wanted.

Our method of growing Mushrooms is very simple, and
can be accomplished to a certainty by any one conforming
to the following directions. Let fresh horse droppings be
procured from the stables each day, in quantity not less,
perhaps, than a good barrow load ; to every barrow load

Fig. 51. — MUSHROOM.

172 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

of droppings add about the same weight of fresh loam,
from a pasture or sod land, or soil of any kind, in fact, that
has not been manured ; (the danger of old manured soil
being, that it may contain spurious fungi}. Let the
droppings and soil be mixed together, day by day, as the
droppings can be procured; if they can be had all at
once, in quantity enough, so much the better. Let the
heap be turned every day, so that it is not allowed to heat
violently, until you have got quantity enough to form the
bed of the dimensions required. Be careful that your
heap is under cover, so that it cannot possibly get wet.

The most convenient size for a bed is from 4 to 5 feet in
width, and if the Mushrooms are wanted in quantity, it
is the plan most economical of space to start on the floor
of the house with the first bed, the additional ones to be
formed of shelving, 4 feet wide by 10 inches deep, raised
one above another, something like the berths in a steam-
boat. Now, from the prepared heap of droppings and
soil, spread over the bed a thin layer ; pound this firmly
do\\rn with a brick ; then another layer, pounded down as
before, and so on until it reaches a depth of 8 inches. Be
careful that it be no more nor less than 8 inches ; more
would cause the mass to heat too violently, while less,
is hardly enough. Into this bed plunge a thermometer ;
in a day or two the bed will heat so that it will run up to
100 or over, and as soon as it declines to 95 or 90, take a
dibber or sharp stick and make holes all over the bed, at
the distance of about 12 inches each way, to about half
the depth of the bed ; into each hole put a piece of spawn
of the size of a hen's egg or so, covering up the hole again
with the compost, so that it will present the same level firm

VEGETABLES — MUSHROOM. 173

surface as before the spawn was put in. Let it remain in this
condition for about 10 or 12 days, by which time the spawn
will have "run" through the whole bed. Now spread
evenly over the surface of the bed nearly 2 inches of fresh
loam, firm it down moderately with the back of a spade,
and cover up the bed with 3 or 4 inches of hay or straw ;
this completes the whole operation of " planting the crop."
Nothing now remains to be done, but attention to the
proper degrees of heat and moisture.

If you can control the means of heating, so that the
place can be kept uniformly at a temperature of 60°, all
the better, but if not, it may range from 40° to 60° ; it
should never get much below 40°, else the bed will be-
come cold too quickly, and delay the crop until too late in
the season to be profitable. Unless the air of the house
has been unusually dry, the Mushrooms will appear before
any water is required ; but examination should be made,
and if the surface of the bed appears dry, a gentle sprink-
ling of water, heated to about 100°, must be given.

With this treatment, beginning in December, our first
crop is ready for use in February, and as the Mushrooms
do not come up all at once, it takes about three weeks to
gather the crop. After this, a slight dressing of fresh
soil, of about half an inch in depth, is spread over the bed,
again beat down with the spade ; this, gently watered with
tepid water when dry, and a second crop of Mushrooms,
(often better than the first), is gathered in March.

To show how a simple oversight in our operations may
defeat the whole work, I will state, that in my first attempt
at Mushroom growing, I labored for two years without be-
ing able to produce a single Mushroom. In my apprentice

174 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

days, we had known no such word as fail, in so simple a
matter; but here, on my first attempt, on my own re-
sponsibility, I was met by total failure. Every authority
was consulted, all the various methods tried — but with no
better success. In all such cases something must be
blamed, and I pronounced the spawn as worthless ; but
mj good natured employer quietly suggested that this
could not well be, as a friend of his had abundant crops
growing from spawn received from the same sourc°.
Driven into a corner by this information, I made another
exploration of my "authorities," and was fortunate to
find in one of them a single sentence that at once showed
where my error had been, it was to " be careful to delay
the covering with mould, until ten or twelve days after the
bed had been spawned." Now, in all the different meth-
ods I had tried, I had in each invariably put in the spawn,
and at once put on the 2-inch covering of soil, which had
the effect to shut down the steam, thereby raising the tem-
perature in the bed to a degree to destroy the spawn, and
consequently to defeat my whole operations. My excuse
for this digression is to show the importance of what
might otherwise be thought unnecessary details.

Although spawn is procurable at cheap rates in all hor-
ticultural stores, yet to such as desire to make it them-
selves, I give the following brief directions. Take equal
portions of horse droppings, cow dung and fresh loam,
mix the whole thoroughly together, as you would make
mortar; then form it into cakes about the size of large
bricks, place these on edge, under cover, until they become
half dry ; then insert into each a piece of spawn half an
inch or so square, let the bricks remain until they are quite

VEGETABLES — MUSHKOOM. 175

dry ; then spread about 8 inches of horse dung over the
floor of the shed, on which build the bricks in a pile 3 feet
wide by 3 feet high, keeping the side in which the spawn
has been put uppermost ; then cover them over with suffici-
ent stable manure, so as to give a gentle heat through
the whole. In two or three weeks the spawn will have
spread itself through the whole mass of each bricU ; they
are then removed to a dry place, and will retain their vital
properties for many years.

There is not the least question that the cultivation of
Mushrooms for market, forced in the manner detailed,
will give a larger profit for the labor and capital invested
than that from any other vegetable. The supply has never
yet been half enough, and sellers have had prices almost
pretty much as they pleased. I know of no house that
has been especially erected for the purpose, and the mar-
kets have been supplied from beds formed in out-of-the-
way corners, giving only an uncertain and irregular sup-
ply, very discouraging to buyers. I have no doubt what-
ever that Mushroom houses, roughly built, but exclusively
devoted for that purpose, would, in the vicinity of any of
our large cities, pay a profit of 50 per cent, per annum on
cost of construction.

176 GARDENING FOB PROFIT.

NASTURTIUM. — INDIAN CRESS. — (Tropceolum majus.)
A plant at once highly ornamental and useful. The
shoots and flower-buds are sometimes used as a salad, but
it is mainly grown for its seeds, which are pickled in vin-
egar, and used as a substitute for capei's. It can be grown
in almost any soil or situation, entwining itself around
strings, brush, or trellis work, that m^Jr be given for its sup-
port. It may be sown thinly in drills, an inch or so deep,
in April or May. There are many beautiful varieties, but
the following are only those in use in our vegetable gar-
dens.

Tall Nasturtium,— Attains a hight of 8 or 9 feet, the
flowers are yellow, blotched with crimson. This variety
makes an excellent screen or covering for unsightly places
in the garden.

Dwarf Nasturtium. — This, in growth, is quite distinct
from the preceding, never attaining more than 3 feet ; it
should be sown thinly in drills, 3 feet wide, and staked up
with brush like Peas. Its flowers are very handsome,
bright yellow, blotched with scarlet.

OKRA OR GUMBO.— (Abelmoschus enculentus.)

This vegetable is extensively grown in the Southern
States; its long pods, when young, are used in soups,
stews, etc., and are believed to be very nutritious. It is
of the easiest culture, and grows freely, bearing abun-
dantly on any ordinary garden soil. It is sown at the
usual time of all tender vegetables — in this district in

VEGETABLES — OKEA. 177

May — in drills 2 inches deep, and from 18 to 24 inches
apart in the rows, for the dwarf sorts, for the tall nearly
double that width. There are only two sorts commonly

. 52. — OKRA, OR GUMBO.

grown, "dwarf" and "tall;" the former being the most
productive.

178 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Q'SIO'S.-(Allium Cepa.)

Next to Cabbages, perhaps, Onions are the most prof-
itable crop of our market gardens, in which they are
grown from sets, and nearly all sold in bunches in -the green
or unripened state. Grown from seed, they are cultivat-
ed almost exclusively by farmers or men who devote farm
land to this purpose alone ; thus grown, they are all sold
in the dry state, and form an important article of com-
merce.

I will first describe the manner of cultivating in our
market gardens. To produce the " sets," or small bulbs,
that are planted to give early Onions to be sold green, a
poor piece of ground is chosen as early as it is fit to work
in spring. It is brought into a thorough state of pulver-
ization by plowing, harrowing, and raking, so that the
surface is level and free from stones; a line is then
stretched, and lines are marked out by the 9-inch side of
th^e marker, in these the seed is sown in beds of 6 rows
wide, rubbing out every 7th row marked, so that it forms
an alley 18 inches wide. For this purpose the seed i?
sown quite thickly, and on poor soil, so as to produce thv,
"sets" as small as possible, for we find that whenever
they much exceed half an inch in diameter, they will run
to seed. It matters not how small the bulb is ; even when
of the size of the smallest Peas, they make an equally good
if not a better crop, than if of a larger size. The sets are
taken up in August, well dried, placed with the chaff
among them in a loft of stable or barn, about 4 inches
deep, covered up by six inches of hay on the approach of
hard frost, and left thus until wanted for setting out in
spring. Here we again commence our operations for the

VEGETABLES —ONION. 179

crop ; this time the Onions are wanted as large as they
can be got, and the best soil of the garden is chosen, ma-
nured with' short, well rotted manure, plowed in at the
rate of 75 tons to the acre; when only concentrated ma-
nures can be obtained, crushed bone is preferable to gu
ano. The ground is further deeply harrowed ; the har
row turned on its back, and the soil still further broken up
with the short teeth, and if any inequalities are left, they
are leveled and smoothed with the rake. The line is now
stretched along the bed, and the 9-inch marker again
makes the drills, 6 in each bed, with one rubbed out for
an alley. The sets are now planted in the drills, at a dis-
tance of 3 inches apart, pressing each bulb down firm-
ly, so that it will keep right side up ; the row is then
closed in by the feet or a rake, so that the set is entirely
covered up. The ground is then rolled over, so as to ren-
der it still more compact around the bulbs ; as soon as the
lines can be traced, by the Onions starting to grow, the
hoe is applied between the rows, and the soil broken be-
tween the plants by the fingers, where the hoe cannot reach,
so as to destroy the germ of the weeds. If attended to in
time, twice going over with hoeing and weeding is suf-
ficient until the crop is fit for market, which it begins to be
about the first week in June, and is usually all gathered
by the first week in July, so as to give us time for second
crops.

When we first begin to send them to market, they are
usually not more than half grown, and are washed and tied
in bunches containing from nine to twelve Onions; later,
when full grown, from six to seven. This crop is one re-
quiring considerable labor and expense, to get it in shape

180 GARDENING FQR PROFIT.

to sell, taking cost of sets, labor, manure, etc., probably
not less than $400 per acre, for the past five years ; but
the receipts have been correspondingly high, averaging in
that time quite $800 per acre. Onions, planted from sets,
rarely fail to give a crop on any kind of soil, provided it
has been well manured ; and although they are sold by
the market gardeners in the green state, they are equally
good, ripened and dried, when raised from sets, as from
seed. The quantity of sets required per acre, is from six
to ten bushels according to size ; at present prices, they
cost $10 per bushel.

The method of raising Onions from seed as a farm or
garden crop, differs but little from that we adopt for sets,
except that they are sown generally about 1 foot apart in
the rows, and manured at the rate of only 25 tons to the
acre instead of 75. It is of the utmost importance that the
ground for Onions, grown from seed, be as nearly level as
possible, so that the seed is not washed away by rains.
It also saves considerable labor in hoeing, when it can be
got free from stones and seeds of weeds.

The seed of Onions, when sown as a field crop, is most-
ly sown by a machine used solely for that purpose ; this
machine sows two rows at once, making the drill and sow-
ing as it goes along. The operation of sowing is begun
as soon as the ground is fit to work in spring, as we al-
ways find, other conditions being the same, that those ear-
liest sown produce the heaviest crop. The covering of
the seed is best done by rolling the ground with a light
roller, drawing it lengthwise of the lines. Rolling is also of
great advantage in smoothing the surface, so that hoeing,
particularly with the scuffle hoe, is much more easily per-

VEGETABLES ONION. 181

formed. The quantity of seed per acre, is about 4 Ibs.,
when sown by the machine, that is if the seed is new and
fresh ; and none else should ever be used, as Onion seed,
of more than one year old, is not apt to produce a vigorous
crop. The seed is quickly tested by placing a little of it
in damp cotton or moss, in a moderately warm room ; if
fresh, it will sprout in three or four days. The early at-
tention to weeding or hoeing is, if possible, of more import-
ance when the crop is raised from seed, than when from
sets ; for the growth being slower and feebler from seeds,
if weeds once get ahead, the crop may be ruined. Here,
as well as in all other garden operations, one man will hoe
over more ground, before the weeds start to grow, than
ten men will, after the weeds get to be six inches high.
Here then, a " stitch in time," literally, " saves nine."

The crop is always harvested in August, the bulbs be-
ing lifted by slightly digging under the row with a light
digging fork. The Onions are left on the ground, usually
from two to three weeks, according to the condition of
the weather, to get thoroughly dried, and are then placed
in barrels, or about 6 or 8 inches deep upon shelving made
for the purpose, in a barn or cellar ; any place that is
dry, without being too warm, being most suitable.
Onions will only endure a certain amount of frost -without
injury, so that it is always safer to cover them up from in-
tense freezing as cold weather approaches. The price of
Onions is variable in the extreme ; those first sent to mar-
ket often selling for $5 and $6 per barrel, while in a week
later the same quality is hardly salable at $1.50 per bar-
rel. Again, in spring, when successfully wintered over,
some careful grower often realizes the first named price.

182 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

It may be given, as a fair average, that $1.50 per barrel is
the price realized by the grower. The product is about
150 barrels per acre, and the cost of raising about $125 ;
leaving a profit of $100 per acre.

The varieties of Onion are quite numerous, but, as in
all other leading vegetables, cultivators confine them-
selves to only a few well established sorts.

Yellow Dutch, or Strashurg, — This is the variety that
is grown almost exclusively when the crop is planted from
" sets," and sold in the green state. Not that it is any
more productive, nor does it sell quite so well as the White
or Silver Skinned, but from the fact of the " sets " keep-
ing better in winter, it is the sort we find safest to use.

White, or Silver Skinned,— A very handsome sort, of
delicate flavor, much grown for private use ; it requires
more care in keeping in win-
ter than any other, however,
and is hardly ever used as
a market sort, unless for
pickling, for which it is sold
in large quantities. The
bulb is quite flat ; the outer
skin, silvery white. It is
entirely distinct from the
Fig. 53.— SILVER-SKINNED ONION. « Silver Skin " of the East-
ern States, which is a brownish-yellow skinned variety, bet-
ter known as Old Yellow, or Common Yellow.

Yellow Danvers. — This variety has not been sufficiently
tested as a market sort, to be sold green, but from what I
have seen of it, I am inclined to think it may yet super-

VEGETABLES OXIOX. • 183

\

sede the Strasburg for that purpose. It certainly is far
more productive, but the question, whether it will keep as
well in sets, daring winter, has not been sufficiently test-

Fig. 54.— YELLOW DAN- Fig. 55.— WETHERSFIELD BED

VERS ONION. ONION.

ed. When sown from seed, as a field crop, it is said to
give one-third, greater weight than any other variety, but
it does not keep so well as some others.

Wethersfield Large Red,— This is the staple variety
of the eastern Onion growers ;
enormous quantities of it are
grown for shipment, it be-
ing found, from its excel-
lent keeping qualities, to be
best fitted for that purpose.
It is never so salable as the
White or Yellow, however,
Fig. 56,-poTATo ONION. jn our }lome markets, ancl is

rarely grown from sets here.

Potato Onions, or "Multipliers," as they are some-
times called, are the mildest of all Onions, and though not

184

GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

generally grown for market, are perhaps the best of all
for family use. They are grown by planting the small
bulbs, early in spring, in rows 1 foot apart, by 4 or 5 inches
in the row, and cultivated otherwise as described for those
grown from sets. The increase is formed by the bulb, as
it grows, splitting up and dividing into six or eight bulbs>
these forming the crop when at maturity in August.
TOP) OF Tree Onion. — Has a bulb in size and general
appearance similar to the Po^
tato Onion, but is propagated
by the singular production of
a clustSr of small bulbs in
place of flowers. These resent
ble a cluster of hazel nuts,
and by them it propagates
very rapidly. It is grown to
a considerable extent, in some
places, as an early market
sort, sold green ; when ripe,
it must be used early in the
season, as it does not keep well in winter. The planting
and subsequent culture is the same as for other sorts.

Fi-r. 57. — TOP ONION.

PARSLEY. — (Petrcsdinum sativum.)

A vegetable in more general use for garnishing than any
other plant of our gardens ; it is also extensively used in
soups, stews, etc. Its cultivation forms quite an import-
ant item in market gardens, particularly under glass.

VEGETABLES — PARSLEY. 185

The manner of cultivating it thus is by sowing it be-
tween the rows of a growing crop of Lettuce in our cold
frames, in April. As it is slow to germinate, it only ap-
pears at the time the Lettuce is cut off in May. It is then
cleared from weeds, hoed, and forms a growth fit to cut a
month before that sown in the open ground. After the
first cutting has been made, in June, it is generally so low
in price as not to be worth marketing, so it is allowed to
grow through the summer until the first week in Septem-
ber, when it is cut off close to the ground and thrown
away, as it is rarely wanted at this season. It is again
hoed, and as at this time it makes a short healthy growth,
suitable for keeping well in winter, it is stowed away in
narrow shallow trenches, exactly in the same manner in
which we preserve Celery.

This way of growing Parsley, I believe, is nearly con-
fined to New York ; but as the consumption of such an
article is necessarily limited, this market has been over-
supplied of late years. Formerly it has frequently paid
twice the value of the sash that covered it, in one season —
$6 for a 3 x 6 sash. No doubt, in many places this system
of growing would be as profitable as it used to be with
us. When not grown under glass, it should be sown
thickly in rows a foot apart, in early spring. The vari-
eties cultivated are the " Dwarf Curled," for framing and
general crop, and the Moss or Fimbriated, for garnishing.

186 GARDENING FOE PEOFIT.

sativa.)

Of late years, our market garden grounds have become
too valuable to be used in growing this vegetable, the
competition from well cultivated farm lands having
broaght it down below our paying level. Its cultivation
is, in all respects, similar to the Carrot. The soil most
suitable is a deep sandy loam, moderately enriched. It
is sown rather thickly in our gardens in early spring, at
a distance of 12 or 14 inches apart in the rows ; on farm
lands, at 18 or 20 inches, or wide enough for rows to be
worked between by the cultivator. Like all vegetables
of this nature, it must be thinned out to a distance of 3
or 4 inches apart between the plants ; and our oft repeat-
ed caution about weeds must be here again enjoined. It
is used almost exclusively in winter, but in our Northern
States, what is wanted for winter use, must be dug up in
fall, and packed away in the manner described under the
head of " Preserving Vegetables in Winter." What are
wanted for sale or use in spring, are best kept in the bed
where they grow ; being entirely hardy in our coldest
districts. About one-half is usually dug up and pitted in
fall, for sale in winter, and the other half left over for
spring. But it sometimes happens that the winter sup-
ply is exhausted before the frost is out of the ground in
spring, sufficiently to permit of their being dug, and when
procurable at such times, they command almost fabulou
prices.

On one such occasion my salesman reported that there
was not a root of this vegetable to be found in market,
and suggested an attempt to dig them at any cost. On
an examination of a well sheltered plot, we found it prac-

VEGETABLES— PARSLEY. 187

ticable, with crowbars, picks, and wedges, to extract them
slowly from the frozen soil, and with our ordinary force,
a few barrels were dug that day that were quickly sold at
$10 per barrel. I at once secured a supply of extra labor-
ers, and by our efforts the next day, we sent in 40 barrels
that sold for $6 per barrel ; three or four days more ex-
hausted our supply, but the plot, of little more than half
an acre, brought nearly $800, which would not have sold
for more than $200, had not the unusual scarcity in mar-
ket been taken advantage of. The average market price
is about $1.50 per barrel, and at that rate, as a farm crop,
it is, in my opinion, by 50 per cent, a better paying crop
than Onions. It will average easily 200 barrels per acre,
and in our rich garden soil about 300. The expense of
raising I should judge to be not more than $100 per acre
on farm land ; in gardens about $200. The increased cost
in the garden being mainly in the greater value of the
land, for it will be remembered that the annual rent of
leased gardens in the vicinity of New York, and other
large cities, is about $75 per acre.

A number of varieties of Parsnips are enumerated in
seed lists, but the distinctions, as far as I have seen, are
hardly worth a difference in name, and I am inclined to
think that the soil often determines peculiarities of variety.
Certain it is, that by sowing the "Hollow Crowned" on
heavy soil, it will be in a great measure deprived of that
' distinction, while the same seed sown on light sandy soil,
will have this peculiarity well marked.

188 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

PEA. — (Pisum sativuin.)

The Pea is grown largely for market purposes in nearly
every state in the Union, the time at which it is sown and
matures being at widely different dates in northern and
southern sections. In any district, its highest degree of
perfection is attained under a comparatively low tempera-
ture, hence it is one of the many vegetables described as
best to be sown in " early spring." True, it is sown for a
succession crop throughout the summer months, even as
late as August, but the first sowings, everywhere, always
produce the best results, and it is from the first sowings
only that it is ever offered in market. For market pur-
poses it is more a crop of the farm than of the garden,
and many hundred acres are cultivated in Southern Jersey
and Long Island for the New York market. Warm,
light soils, moderately enriched by stable manure or bone
dust, are best adapted to its culture, but if the ground
has been manured the previous year, no manure is needed.
The whole crop is marketed by July, and is usually follow-
ed by a second crop of Late Cabbages or Turnips. The
two crops together, average a profit of from $150 to
$300 per acre, according to earliness, condition of soil, etc.
There is an important matter connected with growing
Peas, that confines their culture to the vicinity of a town
or village ; it is the necessity of being able to get a large
number of hands to pick, at the time they are marketable.
The variation in one day, in the market, is not unusually
from $2 to 50 cents per bushel, which shows the vast im-
portance of an early crop. From the sofc condition in
which it is required to be gathered, it is a vegetable not
very manageable to ship, and the packages, which should

VEGETABLES PEA. 189

be of latticed boxes or baskets, snould never exceed the
capacity of a bushel, when shipped from distances requir-
ing from two to three days in the transit. But even this
expense and care is well repaid by the high rates for
which the first lots are sold. When grown as a market
crop, Peas are never staked, and are sown in single rows
2 to 3 inches deep, and from 2 to 3 feet apart, according
to the variety, or the strength of the soil. When grown
in small quantities for private use, they are generally sown
in double rows, 6 or 8 inches apart, and staked up by brush,
for the taller growing kinds.

The varieties are very numei-ous, but are in a great state
of confusion, the same kind being often sent out under a
dozen names. The following varieties are well defined,
arranged as our experience gives the order of merit for this
locality.

EARLY VARIETIES.

Daniel O'Rourke — Still stands at the head of all other
varieties, for the combined qualities of earliness and pro-
ductiveness. It is the variety mainly grown for market
in this district, and in fact, must be in all parts of the
country, judging from the immense quantities of it sold
by the seedsmen. It should be sown, for a field crop, in
rows from 2 to 2£ feet apart, about 1^ bushels of seed be-
ing required per acre.

Extra Early, — We find this to be a few days earlier
than the preceding, but not quite so large in the pod, and
hence not so profitable for market, but desirable as the
earliest sort for private use.

190 GARDENING FOE PEOFIT.

Tom Thumb. — A much valued variety for its extreme
dwavfness, which does away with the necessity for stakes ;
it is, besides, very productive, as it is planted in rows 1
foot apart ; it grows from 8 to 12 inches high. It is oc-
casionally grown as a market variety on heavy soil, which
is best suited for it. Being planted closer in the rows, it
requires at least 2 bushels of seed per acre. It is also a
very hardy variety, and is generally used for sowing in
fall in the Southern States, where it sometimes, however,
requires a little protection by brush during winter ; thus
sown it matures very early in spring.

Bishop's Long Pod. — Said to be a cross between
Bishop's D w"arf and the Marrowfat, partaking of the
dwarf and early qualities of the former, with the great
productiveness of the latter; one of the very best for do-
mestic use.

McClean's Advancer. — A comparatively new variety,
becoming fit for use in a week after the earliest sorts ; pod
and pea large, and of excellent flavor.

LATE VARIETIES.

Champion Of England. — This, so far, is, by general
consent, acknowledged as the best of the late varieties. It
is tall growing, four feet in hight, requiring to be stakec
up ; pod and peas of the largest size.

British Queen.— Plant strong and vigorous, often at
taining a hight of six feet. Aside from its large size, it hai
the merit of continuing long in bearing, and is less af-
fected by mildew in summer than most other varieties.

Blue Imperial. — One of the oldest varieties, but yet

VEGETABLES PEPPEB. 191

standing witl undiminished merit as one of the best late
summer varieties ; it is one of the latest, very 'productive,
and of excellent quality.

Veitch's Perfection, — One of the dwarfs of the late
varieties, abundantly productive ; pods and peas of the
argest size ; a favorite fall sort.

Black and White-eyed Marrowfat, — These are both
productive and hardy varieties, extensively grown as field
peas ; used dry. They are also, from their great produc-
tiveness, grown largely in private gardens, but they are
not so fine flavored as most other varieties.

Tall and Dwarf Sugar.— These are the varieties known
as " edible podded," and are excellent to use in the green
state, in the same way as String Beans, retaining almost
the identical flavor of the Pea. When not used with the
pods, they are equally excellent as shelled Peas, and as
the name implies, particularly sweet.

PEPPER. — (Capsicum annuum.)

A tropical plant, that requires to be started in hot-beds
or forcing pits, in the Northern States. The most com-
mon method is, to sow in hot-beds in March, and treat in
all respects as directed for the cultivation of the Egg
Plant. Light sandy soils are rather best suited for its
growth, but it will grow tolerably well on any soil.
When cultivated for market, they are planted in rows 2
feet apart, and 15 inches between the plants. The crop

192 GABDENING FOE PBOFIT.

is moderately profitable, but it is not grown in large quan-
tities, the main consumption of it being by the pickle
factories.

The popular varieties are ;

Iiiill-IIO.se, or Bell.— An early variety of mild flavor,
rind thick and fleshy ; it is a favorite
variety both for pickling and for use
in the crude state.

Squash. — The sort most generally
grown for pickling, hardly so early
as the preceding, but very productive ;
it is the leading market variety,

Sweet Mountain,— Simi-
Fig. 58.^LL-NosE, lar to the Bull-nose in shape
OB BELL PEPPER. an(j color, but larger, and
milder in flavor ; used to make stuffed pickles.
Cayenne. — The variety of commerce ; pods
small, cone-shaped; coral-red when ripe; it
is quite a late variety, but the pods are as
frequently used for pickling green as when
ripe. Extremely acrid. ™™ PEPPER

POTATO.— (Solarium tuberosum.)

The soil acknowledged to be best suited for the Potato,
is sandy loam ; in all heavy soils it is more subject to dis-
ease, and the flavor is also much inferior. This, however,
is true of nearly all vegetables, heavy soils inducing a wa-
tery insipidity of flavor. Like all robust growing vegeta-

VEGETABLES POTATO. 193

bles, Potatoes can be grown with varying success on soils
of all kinds and in all conditions of fertility ; but it is
every way most profitable to use an abundance of ma-
nure, when it is at all attainable. In breaking up good
pasture land, the decaying sod answers sufficiently well
for the first year in lieu of manure. Manure is applied
either in the rows or hills, or broadcast over the surface,
and plowed in ; the latter plan in all cases being prefer-
able, when manure can be obtained in sufficient quantities.

Potatoes, when grown for market, are always a farm crop,
the receipts per acre being much too low for the regular
market garden ; the large quantities that are planted usu-
ally prevent the use of manure in any other way except in
the rows. When thus applied, furrows are plowed out in
spring, after the ground has become dry and warm, usu-
ally 3 feet apart, and from 3 to 4 inches deep. The ma-
nure is spread in the furrow, the "sets" or "seed"
planted thereon, from 8 to 1 0 inches apart, and the furrow
again covered in by the plow. As soon as the shoots are
seen above ground, the ridge should be at once hoed, and
the cultivator run between the rows; as they advance in
growth, the soil should be laid up on each side against
the row, so as to form a slight ridge.

Considerable discussion has at various times occurred
concerning the relative merits of planting cut or whole
tubers, but is yet undecided, each system having its advo-
cates ; a fact which goes far to prove that it is of little
consequence which method is followed. The best rule, in
our experience is, to plant the whole small tubers if fully
matured, and the larger ones cut, but in either case leav
ing enough bulk to give sufficient sustenance to the plant.

194 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

The Long Island farmers, in the neighborhood of New
York, have their crops of Early Potatoes sold off early
enough in July to get the ground leveled and Late Cab-
bages planted on the ridge on which the Potatoes have
been growing, sufficient manure being left in the ground
to carry through the crop of Cabbage. The two crops
together give an average profit of $150 per acre. Pota-
toes may be preserved during Avinter by the section pit
system recommended for the general preservation of
vegetables, or in a frost-proof cellar.

The varieties of the Potato are very numerous, many of
them having only local reputations, so that it is somewhat
difficult to name the best for such an extensive territory
as ours; those below named seem to have the most qual-
ifications to commend them for general culture.

Early Goodrich. — A new variety raised in 1860 by the
Rev. C. S. Goodrich, of Utica, N. Y., who, from many

Fig. 60 — EARLY GOODRICH.

thousands of seedlings, selected this as the most meritori-
ous. It has been thoroughly tested since then, and all
bear unvarying testimony in describing it as one* of the
earliest, most productive, and equal in quality to any va-
riety cultivated. The cut represents half the average size.

VEGETABLES — POTATO. 195

It also has the excellent property of producing very few
small tubers. It should be planted, when in rows, 2| feet
apart.

Early Dykeman.— This has been the leading variety
grown in this vicinity for an early crop for the past six or
eight years, but there is hardly a doubt but that it will be
superseded by the Goodrich just as soon as that variety
gets plenty enough for general cultivation. In size, tho
tuber is above medium, yellowish-white, eyes rather sunk,
purplish.

Ash-leaved Kidney. — An old English variety of unsur-
passed earliness, dry, and of excellent flavor. Tubers kid-
ney-shaped, rather small ; skin yellowish white. This is
an excellent variety for early crop for private use, but is
not productive enough for market ; may be planted from
1^ to 2 feet in the rows.

Buckeye. — Second to the Dykeman as an early market
sort, and surpassing it in quality. The tuber is roundish
with pink eyes, and above average size. A strong grower
and very productive ; plant 3 feet apart in the rows.

Jackson White. — A comparatively new variety, of great
excellence; tubers large; color yellowish-white; skin of-
ten rough. An excellent flavored variety, and though
not eai'ly, is now extensively grown in this vicinity for
general crop ; plant 2| to 3 feet in drills.

Lapstone Kidney. — An English variety of great size and
exceeding productiveness ; it is quite late, however, and
its chief merit is in its quality of keeping late in spring ;
it is quite a favorite in private gardens here. Tubers
large, oblong, Hat ; color yellowish-white ; plant 2£ feet
apart in drills.

196 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Mercer. — A variety perhaps more generally known and
cultivated than any other sort ; it is very productive, me-
dium size, and of excellent flavor, and keeps well until
spring. One of the leading market varieties.

Harrison. — One of the Goodrich seedlings. Said to be
the most productive of all Potatoes ; color yellowish-

Fig. 61. — HARRISON POTATO.

white ; oblong ; full ; flavor excellent. At this date, the
most valued and highest priced on the list. The above
engraving represents half the average size.

Peach Blow. — Another sort extensively grown for mar-
ket, and a favorite shipping variety. Tubers rather large,
round ; eyes rather sunk ; skin pinkish-red. Very pro-
ductive, and in this section has for some years withstood
disease better than any other sort ; should be planted 2^
or 3 feet in drills.

White Peach Blow. — A sub-variety of the above,
claimed by some to be superior.

VEGETABLES — PUMPKIN — RADISH. 197

PTTMPKIN.— (Gucurbita Pepo.)

The Pumpkin is yet offered in. large quantities for sale
in our markets, but it ought to be banished from them
as it has for some time been from our gardens. But
the good lieges of our cities are suspicious of all innova-
tions in what is offered them to eat, and it will be many
years yet before the masses will understand that the mod-
est, and sometimes uncouth looking, Squash is immeasure-
ably superior, for all culinary purposes, to the mammoth,
rotund Pumpkin. The Pumpkin is an excellent agricul-
tural plant, of great value for cattle, but I have no reason
to allude to it here, except to denounce its cultivation or
use as a garden vegetable.

RADISH.— (Raphanus satimts.)

Radishes are consumed in immense quantities, and are
one of the vegetables which we deem of no little import-
ance as a market crop. To have them early, a light rich
soil is the best ; heavy or clayey soils not only delay their
maturing, but produce crops much inferior, both in appear-
ance and flavor. They are grown by us in various meth-
ods ; the most common is, after sowing a crop of Beets in
rows, to sow the Radish crop regularly over the bed
broadcast. The Radishes come up quickly, and are gath-
ered and sold, usually in six weeks from the time of sow-
ing. The Beets at this time have only become large
enough to be thinned, and will not be ready for at least a
month later, so that the Radish crop is taken off the same

198 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

ground with little or no injury to the Beet crop. Another
method is, to sow them between the rows of Early Cab-
bages or Cauliflowers, where they also are gathered off so
soon as not to interfere with these crops.

These are the methods practised in our gardens here,
where land is so valuable that we must make it always
carry double, and often treble, crops in a season. Radishes
are also grown in some places very extensively,
on land devoted exclusively to that purpose,
in spring. Their culture thus is exceedingly
simple. The ground being plowed and harrow-
ed well, the seed is sown, and the harrow again
run over, which places the seed at the proper
\ depth. But though the field cultivation of this
vegetable is simple, the labor of gathering, tying
up, and washing, preparatory for market, is
great, which detracts largely from the profits.
Perhaps the average receipts are $300 per acre,
but the expense, before this is realized, is prob-
ably one-half that amount. It must be remem-
bered, that, in many cases, it is an auxiliary crop,
interfering but little with our main spring crops.
It is one of the vegetables convenient to ship,
and the early samples from Norfolk, Va., aver-
Fig. 62 - aSe $10 per barrel, of 200 bunches ; or about $1000
LONG SCAB- per acre, which should be a great inducement
TOP. to southern cultivators, as there is but little
danger of glutting the markets with fresh vegetables
shipped from a southern to a northernport. Only a few
varieties are cultivated, although the seed lists give dozens.
Long Scarlet Short Top, — This is the variety grown

VEGETABLES KADISU. 199

in rather the largest quantity, as from its shape, (when
tied up in flat bunches), it is best suited to ship. In rich
light soils, its average length is about 9 inches.

Scarlet Turnip, — Rather more delicate in flavor than
the above, and for this reason in more
demand for home consumption. By al-
lowing it sufficient time to grow, it at-
tains 3 inches in diameter, but it is al-
ways gathered at half
this size. This, and the
preceding, are the two
varieties that are grown

as early market sorts.
Fig. 63. — SCARLET

TUUMP KADISU. Will 10 TUmlp II 11(1

Long White — Are merely sub-varieties

of the above, differing in no way except

Fig. 64.— OLIVE
in color ; they are generally grown with 8HAPED RADISH.

the above in private gardens for the sake of variety, but
seem not to be esteemed in mai-ket.

Scarlet Olive-Shaped, — An excellent variety; color
crimson, rather than scarlet ; small top ; early, tender, and
in every way desirable.

LATE VARIETIES, GROWN FOR FALL
AND WINTER USE.

Yellow and Gray Turnip-rooted, — Varieties well
adapted for summer use, as they stand the heat better than
the early sorts ; they are mild in flavor, but are but little
grown, as few relish Radishes at that season.

200 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Rose-COlorcd Chinese. — A valuable variety ; color pink
or rose ; skin smooth ; of sharp but agree-
able flavor. Keeps as well as any.

Black Spanish. — A very hardy variety
often preserved, keeps as well as any
other root in sand until mid-winter, in
cellar or root-house ; large size ; color
grayish-black; rather harsh in flavor.

RHTTBARB.— (Rheum Rhaponticum*)

Rhubarb is now cultivated largely for
Fig. 65.— ROSE- mar]cet purposes in the vicinity of all

COLORED CHINESE . ,

RADISH. large cities, and few private gardens

are without it. Its culture is of the simplest kind. It is
increased* by division of the root, every portion of which
that has an eye or bud will form a plant. It is essential,
to grow it early and in perfection, that the soil be broken
up at least 18 inches deep by the plow and subsoiler, and
manured heavily ; 100 tons per acre, if attainable, will be
none too much. It may be planted in early spring, or in
fall, 3 feet apart each way ; if planted in spring, on ground
well prepared, a full crop can be gathered the succeeding
season. It_is a vegetable requiring but little labor; once
planted, it will remain in bearing condition for three or
four years, only requiring a top-dressing of manure, dug
in, in spring or fall. It is one of those crops of which it
is difficult to state the value per acre ; as in the varying
conditions of earliness, it is sold from $200 to $1000 per

VEGETABLES — RHUBARB. 201

acre. It may be safe to say, however, that it will average,
in this vicinity, a profit of 8350 per acre annually, from the
date of planting; in many places, where there is less
competition, no doubt double or treble that amount may
be realized. Rhubarb is a most simple and convenient
plant for forcing, which may be done either by hooeing
the crowns, or inverting barrels over them in early spring,
say two or three weeks before the weather opens, and
covering the whole bed up to the depth of 3 feet, with
eaves or other heating material. Rhubarb requires no
light in forcing, the stalks being much more tender when
light is excluded. Another method is, to lift the roots in
a mass in the fall, and place them in a back shed or furnace
room ; such situations as are adapted for the forcing of
Mushrooms, will force Rhubarb ; the requirements being
moisture, and a temperature of from 45° to 60°.

Forced Rhubarb always sells at highly remunerative
prices, and when there is a surplus of roots, and tsonveni-
ences for forcing, it will pay handsomely. The varieties
mainly cultivated are :

LinnftUS. — This is the variety mainly grown by the
market gardeners for an early crop ; it is also very pro-
ductive, of excellent spicy flavor, being the least acid of
all the varieties. It is small, however, and is superseded
by the larger but later sorts as soon as they appear*

Victoria. — This sort is also largely grown for markets,
but mainly on lands that are not early ; its great size and
consequent weight of crop, compensating for its lateness.
It is therefore recommended for heavy late lands, and the
preceding variety for light and early soils.

CahOOD, — This variety is particularly abundant of juice
9*

202 GARDENING FOB PKOFTT.

and when " wine " is made from Rhubarb, is perhaps the
best fitted for the purpose. Rhubarb is not likely to make
much headway as a " wine plant," the disinterested (?)
efforts of its advocates, notwithstanding.

Early Prolific, — A variety that is extensively and al-
most exclusively grown by the London market gardeners,
but has not yet been much tried with us ; if what we have
heard of it is correct, it is far in advance of all others as
a market sort

offldnaliB.)
See Thyme, and other Sweet Herbs.

SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT.

(Trayopogon p&rrifolius.)

This vegetable is coming rapidly into general use;
patches of an acre of extent are seen in some of the more
extensive gardens here, that a few years ago grew only a
few rows. It should be sown in early spring. Its cul-
ture is in all respects similar to that of Carrots, and al-
though its consumption is as yet limited, for what is grown
of it, the prices are high and very remunerative. It is more-
over a safe root to cultivate, for, being entirely hardy, there
is no risk whatever of its being injured by frost, should it
so happen that the digging up is neglected in the hurry

VEGETABLES SALSIFY.

203

of fall work. It is generally better, however, to dig it up
and put it away as we do Parsnips or Carrots, so that it
can be got at any -time during winter.
It usually sells at higher rates in spring,
than in fall or winter; but even with
the advance in price is less profitable to
the grower when sold in spring, as that
being a busy season, the labor expended
in digging it up and getting it ready, is
then of much more value.

As this vegetable will be unknown to
many, I will state that it is used in vari-
ous ways, but generally boiled, or stew-
ed, like Parsnips or Carrots. It is also
used to make a soup, which has a decid-
ed flavor of the Oyster. It is also eaten
as a salad, sliced and dressed with vine-
gar, salt, and pepper. There are no
varieties.

SCORZONERA-BLACK SALSIFY.

(Scorzonera Hispanica.)

Very similar to the above in general
character, and of the same culture and
Fig. 66.— ssiFT. use. It is not, however, so generally
esteemed as the Oyster Plant, and is not grown except for
private use, and even for that purpose sparingly.

204 GABDENING FOB PROFIT.

SEA KALE. — (Crambe mnritima.)

This vegetable is much esteemed and grown largely for
market purposes, both in England and France, and no
private garden of any extent in either country, is consid-
ered complete without it. Here, however, we seem to
make but little headway in its cultivation. I have never
yet seen it offered for sale in our markets, and its culture
is practised in but few private gardens.

There is an impression that it is difficult of culture in
our climate ; this is not so, by any means; it is equally as
easy to grow it here as it is in England, only that, like all
vegetables, requiring artificial heat for its perfection, its
cultivation is attended with more expense than that of veg-
etables that we plant in the open ground, without other
care than to keep them clear of weeds.

It is increased either by roots or by seed ; when roots
can be obtained to start with, they are quicker. The
manner of operating with them is as follows : in fall, a
few old plants of Sea Kale are dug up, and the roots cut
in pieces of from 2 to 3 inches in length ; these are placed
in boxes of sand in a dry cellar, until February or March ;
they are then strewn on the surface of a hot-bed, where,
in a week or two, they will emit roots and tops ; they are
then potted, hardened off for a few weeks, and as soon as
the weather is settled, planted out in rows 3 feet apart,
and 2 feet between the plants. If the ground is in the
condition that it should be, Sea Kale, thus treated,
will produce crowns strong enough to give a crop th^
next season after planting. When grown from seed, the
seed should be sown in hills, at the above distances apart,
in early spring, each hill being thinned out to three or four

VEGETABLES SEA KALE SHALLOTS. 205

plants. In our colder latitudes, the crowns should be
covered by 4 or 6 inches of manure or leaves, as a protec-
tion from frost.

Sea Kale is only fit for use in the blanched state, conse-
quently, on the approach of
spring, the " crowns " should
be covered with some light
material, such as sand or leaf
mold, to the depth of 12 or
15 inches, so that the young
shoot, being thus excluded
from the light, will become
blanched in growing through
this covering, or, sometimes
cans, made for the purpose,
or inverted flower pots, are
used, the only object being
to exclude light. In England
it is forced extensively, by
covering over the whole beds
with leaves, manure, or some
heating material. The young
shoots, when cooked, have
a flavor something between
Asparagus and Cauliflower,
Fig. 67.— SEA KALE. but is much preferred to

either. The engraving shows a young shoot, when ready
for the table. The fully developed leaves are large and
robust.

206 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

SHALLOTS. — (Allium ascalonicum.)

This vegetable, which is used in the green state in early
spring as a substitute for Onions, is planted by dividing
the bulb in September, and planting in rows 1 foot apart
and 6 inches between the plants ; it makes a slight growth
and forms its roots in the fall. On the opening of spring,
it developes rapidly, and the single bulb, planted in Sep-
tember, will have increased, by May, a dozen fold. From
its hardy nature, coming in at least three weeks earlier
than the Onion, large quantities are sold, at rates corre-
sponding with those of Onions raised from sets. It, with us,
has ever been a profitable vegetable to raise, and I have
arely found the profits on an acre to have been less than
$300. It is generally cleared off by the last week in May,
giving sufficient time to follow with second crops of
Early Cabbage, Beets, Turnips, etc.

SORREL.— (Rumex acetosa.)

A well-known perennial plant, cultivated to sonje ex-
tent with us. It is used in soups and sauces, mostly by
the Germans and French. In the French markets, it is
nearly as abundant as Spinach is in ours, and is highly re-
commended as a wholesome vegetable. Its cultivation i
very simple. Seeds, sown thinly in rows in early spring
will give a heavy crop of leaves in June and July ; wheu
the flower-stalk of the Sorrel starts to grow, it should be
cut out, which will add greatly to the development of the
leaves. The crop may be left two seasons, but is more
tender when annually raised from seed.

VEGETABLES SPINACH. 207

SPINACH.— (Spinacia oleracea.)

This is a very important crop in our market gardens,
nnndreds of acres of it being cultivated in the neighbor-
nood of New York. It is one of the most Damageable
of all vegetables, requiring but little culture, and may be
had fit for use the entire season.

In our market gardens, it is sown in early spring as an
auxiliary crop, between the rows of Early Cabbage ; it
comes to perfection usually in five or six weeks after sow-
ing. At this season, it sells at a low price, usually from
50 cents to $1 per barrel ; but it requires but little labor,
and generally pays about $75 per acre of profit. The
main and important crop is sown in drills, 1 foot apart, in
this section from 1st to 15th September, or late enough in
fall to get about half grown before cold weather sets in.
It is sometimes covered up, in exposed places, with straw
or salt hay during winter, which prevents it being cut
with the frost ; but in sheltered fields, here, there is no
necessity for covering.

Thus sown, in the fall, it is begun to be cut or thinned
out for market, about 1st of April, and is usually cleared
off by 1st of May, giving the ground for a second crop of
Cabbage, etc. I could never account for the fact that some
vegetables always continue to be more profitable to raise
than others that require the same expenditure of labor ;
here we have a marked case in point. Spinach, which
certainly requires no more labor in raising than a crop
of Potatoes, continues to give a profit of at least three
times as much per acre, on fields divided only by a post
and rail fence. The men that grow the Spinach are never
foolish enough to encumber their ground with Potatoes;

208 GARDENING FOB PKOFIT.

but their immediate neighbors have done so for the last
dozen years, and have never discovered tbat $50 expended
more per acre in manure, would annually put $200 more
per acre in their pockets, by growing Spinach, instead of
Potatoes.

The varieties are very few.

Round, — This is the variety generally cultivated for
winter use, being remarkably hardy, and standing our se-
verest winters with but little injury. It is the main mar-
ket sort.

Prickly, — Although this variety is usually sown in
spring and summer, it also stand's well in winter, but gives
less bulk per acre than the first named.

New Zealand Spinach, — (Tetragonia expansa.} — A
plant of the same character and uses, but of a different
genus, and used only in private gardens. It is a remark-
able plant, of low branching habit, growing with wonder-
ful luxuriance during hot weather. Single plants often
measuring 6 feet in diameter. The leaves are used ex-
actly as common Spinach ; it is best grown by sowing the
seeds in April and May, and transplanting to 3 feet apart.

SQUASH. — (Cucurbita Pepo, and C. maxima,.')

A class of vegetables embracing more marked distinc-
tions in sorts, fitted for more varied uses, and to be found,
during the extremes of the season, in a better state of per-
fection, than, perhaps, any other product of our gardens.
Being of tropical origin, their growth is all consummated

VEGETABLES — SQUASH. 200

during summer ; yet the fruit of the " winter varieties "
may be kept, with a little care, until May. They are all
of luxuriant and vigorous growth, and although they will
grow readily on 'almost any soil, yet there is hardly
anything cultivated that will so well repay generous treat-
ment. Like all plants of this class, it is useless to sow
until the weather has become settled and wai-m ; next to
Lima Beans, Squashes should be the last vegetable plant-
ed. Light soils are best suited for their growth, and it is
most economical of manure to prepare hills for the seeds,
in the ordinary manner, by incorporating two or three
shovelfuls of well rotted manure with the soil, for each
hill. For the Bush varieties, from 3 to 4 feet each way,
and for the running sorts from 6 to 8 feet. Eight or ten
seeds should be sown in each hill, thinning out after they
have attained their rough leaves, leaving three or four of
the strongest plants.

They are extensively grown for market, but are not suf-
ficiently profitable for our highly cultivated gardens, and
are therefore grown rather as a farm-garden crop. They
give a varying profit, in our vicinity, of from $100 to $10
per acre. The early varieties are grown quite extensively
in the vicinity of Norfolk, Charleston, and Savannah, and
shipped North, from two to four weeks earlier than they
can be had here, and like all such commodities, bring
three or four times the price of those grown in the vicini-
ty, in quantities that glut the market.

The varieties are very numerous, and from the facility
with which they will cross, it is very difficult to retain the
different kinds pure.

210 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

SUMMER VARIETIES.

Yellow and White Bush Scalloped, — These are the

two varieties that are esteemed the most early, and are
such as are almost exclu-
sively grown for market,
for the first crop ; from the
hard texture of the rind,
they are well fitted for
shipping, and are the sorts
grown exclusively at the
Fig. 68.-wHiTE-Busn SCALLOPED South for that purpose.
SQUASH. The characters of these va-

rieties are very decided, never presenting any variation.
Plant 3 to 4 feet apart in hills.

Slimmer Crook-neck. — A much esteemed variety in
private gardens, somewhat similar in growth to the Bush ;
rather more dwarf. The fruit is orange-yellow, covered
with warty excrescences ; usually from 7 to 9 inches long ;
considered the best flavored of the summer varieties.

Boston Marrow, — This variety may be termed second
early, coining in about ten days after the Bush and Crook-
neck sorts. The skin, which is of a yellowish shade, is
very thin ; the flesh thick, dry and fine ground, and of
unsurp'assed flavor.

FALL, OR WINTER VARIETIES.

Hubbard. — A general favorite, and more largely grown
as a late sort than any other ; it is of large size, often
weighing from 9 to 10 Ibs. Color blueish-green, occasion-
ally marked with brownish-orange or yellow ; flesh fine

VEGETABLES — SQl; ASH— SWEET POTATO. 211

grained, dry, and of excellent flavor. It can be had in
use from September to May, eight months of the year.
It should not be planted closer than 8 feet apart.

Yokohama, — A very distinct variety sent from Japan,
by Mr. Thomas Hogg, in 1860, and since very generally
disseminated. The fruit is roundish, deeply ribbed ; color
orange-salmon ; thickly warted ; flesh thick, very dry,
sweet, and excellent ; maturing earlier than the Hubbard,
but not so desirable for winter. Plant 8 feet apart.

Winter Crook-neck,— A variety largely grown in some
of the Eastern States, where it is said to be kept the en-
tire season. Skin reddish-pink, when matured; flesh
close grained, sweet, and fine flavored. It is a luxuriant
growing variety, and should be planted in hills 9 feet apart.

Vegetable Marrow, — This variety is a favorite English
sort ; the fruit is very variable in size, from 9 to 18 inches
in length, by from 4 to 6 inches in diameter. The skin is
greenish-yellow ; flesh white, soft, and of rich flavor ; very
distinct from all of the preceding. Plant in hills, at 8 feet.

SWEET POTATO.— (Ipomoea Batatas.)
"We have few vegetables that are so particular about
soil as the Sweet Potato, and to succeed well with it, it is
essential that the soil be light, rich and warm. It is labor
lost to attempt its cultivation on a heavy, cold soil. It is
more generally grown in the Southern States than the
common Potato, as there the soil and climate are more
congenial to it. We have often difficulty, in this district,

212 GARDEOTNG FOR PROFIT.

in saving the tubers sound enough until spring, to start
for sprouting to produce young plants. The great essen-
tials to their good preservation, are a dry and rather
warm atmosphere; the cellar, suitable to preserve the
common Potato, being usually much too cold and damp
for this. Where there is no place of the necessary high
temperature, it is best to get them in spring direct from
some southern market, where they can always be had in
good condition ; or they can be kept by packing in bar-
rels in dry sand, and keeping them in a warm room. In
this district, we begin to start the tubers in hot-beds or
forcing pits, about the middle of April, laying them thickly
together on a 2-inch layer of sand and leaf-mold compost-
ed together, (or sand alone will suit if leaf-mold cannot
be had) ; as soon as the buds or eyes show signs of start-
ing, cover the tubers completely over to the thickness of
an inch with the same material. Treat as for other tender
plants in the hot-bed or forcing pit, and the sprouts or slips
will be ready for planting out by the first of June,

Market gardeners often make the sale of Sweet Potato
plants a very profitable operation, immense quantities of
them being sold to private growers at the planting season.
As the sprouts from the tubers come up very thickly, re-
peated thinnings are made, which is not only profitable to
the grower, but of great advantage to the remaining plants,
by giving them the necessary room to grow. One grower,
in this vicinity, informed me that last season he sold up-
wards of $1000 worth of plants from 150 sashes. The
profit from the cultivation of the plant in the field is
something less than that from Tomatoes, but more than
from the common Potato.

VEGETABLES — SWEET POTATO — TOMATO. 213

In this latitude, the Sweet Potato should never be
planted much earlier than the first of June ; it is very
susceptible of being chilled, and the weather is rarely set-
tled and warm enough to be safe here before June. Pre-
pare the hills as for Tomatoes, 4 feet apart, planting three
plants in each, or if in rows or ridges, 4 feet apart, and 1
foot between the plants; in either case requiring from
8,000 to 10,000 plants per acre.

The following are the sorts mostly grown.

\anscmoad. — This is the earliest sort ; tubers large,
from 3 to 4 inches in diameter at the thickest part, taper-
ing to each end, and from 5 to 8 inches long ; flesh dry
sweet and well flavored.

Red Skinned,— This variety is claimed to be hardier
than the preceding, but it is doubtful if this is the case.
It is a long, slender variety, mostly grown in private gar-
dens, and is believed to be of a richer flavor than the yel-
low or white sorts.

Yellow Skinned, — This sort is mainly cultivated in the
Southern States, where it attains nearly the weight of the
Nansemond ; it requires a longer season than that variety,
and is not so suitable for the North. It is of excellent
flavor, and more free from stringiness than any other sort.

10JS.A.r£Q.—(Lycopersicum esculentum.)

This vegetable is one of the most important of all gar-
den products ; hundreds of acres are now planted with it
in the vicinity of all large cities, and the facility with

214 GABPENING FOE PROFIT.

which it is managed, places it readily under the control of
the least experienced. It is now grown here almost en-
tirely by those who grow Peas, Potatoes, Melons, and
other crops of the " farm gardens," as our market gardens
proper are too highly enriched and much too limited in ex-
tent to render the cultivation of the Tomato profitable.
To produce early crops, the seed must be put down in hot-
beds or forcing pits, about ten weeks before the plants are
safe or fit to put in the open ground. Thus, in this dis-
trict, we sow in a hot-bed about the first week in
March ; in April, the plants are fit to be set out, at a dis-
tance of 4 or 5 inches apart, in another hot-bed. They
are grown there (proper attention being given to the hot-
beds as directed under that head) until the middle of
May, when they are safe to place in the open ground.
They are planted, for early crops, on light sandy soil, at a
distance of 3 feet apart, in hills, in which a good rbovelfull
of rotted manure has been mixed. On heavy soils, which
are not suited for an early crop, they should be planted
4 feet apart. Some attach great importance to topping
the leading shoot of the Tomato, so that it branches,
arguing that by this means we get an earlier and heavier
crop ; all our experience shows that no benefit whatever is
derived from the practice. Like all vegetables grown on
so large a scale, and in such varying soil and climate, the
Tomato sells in our markets at prices vaiying widely, from
$10 down to 25 cents per bushel. The average price for
those raised in the district, being about $1 per bushel.
The quantity raised per acre is about 400 bushels. This
may seem at first glance to be quite a profitable crop foi
a farmer ; but, every acre necessitates the use of at least

VEGETABLES — TOMATO. 215

100 sashes, for, on the second transplanting, about fifty
plants only can be grown in a sash, and about 5000 plants
are required for an acre. On one occasion, having a very
suitable soil, I grew about four acres of Tomatoes for
three years, which realized me from $1500 to $2000 annu-
ally in receipts ; but I discovered that the operation was
a losing one, as, to raise 20,000 plants for my four acres,
I had to make use of 400 sashes, in which, in rather less
time and with far less labor than it took to grow the To-
mato plants, Lettuce could have been grown that would
have sold for at least $2 per sash. Thus I lost annually,
in preparing for the Tomato plants, half the receipts of the
crop, before ever they were even planted. But there are
many parts of the country where Lettuce, thus forward-
ed, could not be sold, while Tomatoes could, which would
materially change the aspect of the operation. In the
southern sections of the country, convenient to shipping,
Tomatoes are largely grown for the northern markets, and
there sold at prices highly remunerative to the grower.
In many instances, in the Southern States, the cultivation
of Tomatoes for market is carelessly done, the seed being
merely sown in the open ground and replanted, as we grow
Cabbages. No doubt, by starting in January or Febru-
ary with the hot-beds, or even cold frames, and planting
out in March or April, they could be had at least two
•weeks earlier than they are now sent to us.

There are always some one or more varieties, said to
be earlier than others, sent out every spring, but it must
be confessed that' the varieties that we cultivated twenty
years ago are not in earliness a day behind those issued
as " vastly superior " in 1866. Last spring, to test them

216 GARDENING FOB PEOFIT.

thoroughly, I planted twenty-five plants each of the four
most popular sorts, under circumstances exactly similar in
all respects ; there was no difference whatever in earliness,
and but little perceptible difference in productiveness.

I believe that our ordinary methods of saving Tomato
and all other seeds have, in fact, much to do in preventing
as making any advance in procuring early varieties ; if we
would only take the trouble to always select the first ma-
tured fruits, and the best specimens only, for seeds, and
10 continue, there is no question whatever, but it would
amply repay the trouble. But the grower for market
grudges to give up his first basket of fruit, that may realize
him $5 or $10, for a few ounces of seed, knowing that he
can get plenty when his crop is not worth the gathering
for market. But, depend upon it, he makes a mistake,
for the seed from his first fruits would, perhaps, pay him
a hundred tunes better, if used for seed, the next year, than
any price he might get for it in the market.

In private gardens, where space is often limited, a
greater quantity of fruit will be obtained by elevating
the branches of the Tomato from the ground with brush,
such as is used for sticking Peas, or by tying to laths
nailed against a board fence ; or, what is neater yet, the
hoop training system as practised in France. But for
market purposes, on a large scale, it would require to
much labor.

The following are a few of the many varieties grown.

Early Smooth Red, — A very old variety, but one
which, for general crop for market purposes, I believe is
yet unsurpassed. In the trial above referred to, it was

VEGETABLES TOMATO. 217

tested with the Cook's Favorite, Tilden, and PoweWs
Early, and with no perceptible advantage in earliness to
either, but the Early Smooth presented the greatest

Fig. 69. — EARLY SMOOTH RED TOMATO.

amount of marketable fruit. This variety is of medium
size ; rich coral-red ; roundish ; much flattened ; very solid.

The Cook's Favorite,— Differing but little from the
preceding, except in shape of the fruit, which is rounder
and less flattened. It is grown largely of late years in
the neighborhood of Philadelphia, and in southern New
Jersey, but is not yet a " favorite " in New York.

Tilden. — This variety, issued last season with a fame
that had been widely sounded ns being far in advance of
all others in earliness, productiveness, and every other
good quality, will not sustain its recommendation. It
proves, with me, no better in any respect than the first
named on this list, and if no better, should never have
been sent out.

Powell's Early. — Rather a distinct variety with smaller
foliage than any of the preceding ; fruit smooth round,
inclined to cluster ; of a deep scarlet crimson color ; very
solid and with few seeds.
10

218 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Fejee, — The fruit of this variety is of the largest size ;
color reddish-pink ; very solid, and well flavored ; a most
abundant bearer. Its lateness, as well as its objectionable
color, make it of little value as a market sort.

Large Red. — Fruit large, irregular, but very solid ;
this variety is preferred by many to the smooth sorts, the
flesh being more solid. It is not quite so early, but is
preferable when weight of crop is Avanted for catsup, or
preserving ; for this purpose it is grown largely as a late
crop.

Large Yellow, — Differing only from the preceding in
color.

Red and Yellow Plum. — Beautiful varieties, never ex-
ceeding 2 inches in length, by 1 inch in diameter. They
are mainly used for pickling and preserving.

Tree Tomato, — This variety is entirely distinct from
all the others, in its upright and tree-like habit. It was
introduced to this country some six or seven years ago,
from France, but has never shown any quality deserving
general cultivation, and is now only grown in private gar-
dens more as a half useful curiosity than anything else.

TURNIP.— (Brassica eampestris.)

The cultivation of the Turnip for an early crop for mar-
ket purposes, sold bunched in the green state, is in all re-
spects the same as detailed for Early Beets. The profits
of the crop are also similar. The Turnip, however, for
early crops, is rather more particular about soil than the

VEGETABLES TURNIP. 219

Beet, and can best be produced early on light sandy or
gravelly soils, highly enriched with manure.

For late crops, sowings may be made, for Ruta Bagas,
from May to September, in the different sections of the
country ; here, the finest roots are obtained by sowing
about first Aveek in June. For white and yellow varieties,
as they come quicker to maturity, sowing should be de-
layed four or five weeks later. Here, we sow from the
middle of July to the middle of August.

Turnips, Avhether for early or late crops, should always
be sown in drills, about 14 or 18 inches apart. In large
quantities, they are sown by the machine, when one pound
of seed will be enough for an acre. In the Northern
States, it is necessary to take them up on the approach of
severe weather, when they are best preserved during win-
ter by being pitted, as recommended for other roots. The
late crops of Turnips are by no means so profitable as the
early, rarely realizing to the grower more than $75 per
acre; but like most other late crops of the garden or
farm, they can be grown with less manure, are less perish-
able if not immediately sold, and are consequently grown
by the farmer on his less valuable but more extensive
grounds.

The following are the leading varieties grown.

Purple Top Strap-leaved. — The variety mainly grown
for early crop, attaining, when well grown, a diameter of
5 to 6 inches, but is first gathered for market use at about
half that size. It is a firm, solid variety, free from spon-
giness, of very handsome appearance; the lower two-
thirds of the root is white, while the upper portion has a
well defined line of purple.

220 GARDENING Fofe PROFIT.

White Dutch. — An old favorite sort, having nearly the
same shape as the Purple Top, "but entirely white ; it is
equally early, and by some thought to be the best of all
in flavor ; but is less salable in market, its appearance
being less attractive.

Yellow Aberdeen, — This is an excellent variety for culi-
nary use, though not so early as the preceding ; the bulb
is nearly round, of a dull yellow beneath, and purple or
green at top. It is a very solid variety, keeping well
throughout the winter, and as it attains a greater weight
under favorable conditions, is much grown for stock.

RUTA BAGA, OR SWEDES TURNIP.

Improved American, — The leading variety of this
division of the family ; is grown very largely for winter
sale in our northern markets. Under different culture, it
assumes a great difference of shape and size, average speci-
mens being 6 inches long, by 4 or 5 inches wide. It is
always hard and solid, and is perhaps specifically heavier
than any other vegetable root cultivated.

Laing'S Purple Top,— A rather late variety, but, in
good land, giving enormous crops. It produces a great
abundance of leaves, and for this reason requires at least
a space of 18 inches between the rows, and 12 inches be-
tween the plants. In shape, it is nearly round ; smooth
skinned, and handsome.

SWEET HERBS^-THYME SAGE ETC. 221

THYME, SAGE, SUMMER SAVORY, AND MAR-
JORAM.

I believe the cultivation of Sweet Herbs, for market
purposes, is but little known in this country, except in the
vegetable gardens in the vicinity of New York ; there it
is practised to an extent of perhaps 60 or 70 acres, a fair
average product of which would be about $500 per acre.
Like the crops of Celery, Spinach, or Horseradish, they
are grown only as a second crop, that is, they are planted
in July, after an early crop of Peas, Cabbages, Beets, or
Onions has been sold off. The varieties are Thyme, Sage,
Summer Savory, and Sweet Marjoram, the former two
being grown in the ratio of ten acres to one of the others.

The seed is sown in April in rich mellow soil, carefully
kept clean from weeds until the plants are fit to set out,
which may be done any time that the ground is ready
from middle of June until end of July. As the plants are
usually small and delicate, it is necessary that the ground
be well fined down by harrowing and raking before plant-
ing. The distance apart, for all the varieties, is about the
same, namely, 12 inches between the rows, and 8 or 10
inches between the plants ; the lines are marked out by
the "marker." (This is the "marker" used for many
other purposes ; in lining out the rows for Early Cab-
bages, for instance, every alternate line is planted, thus
caving them 2 feet apart, their proper distance.) In
eight or ten days after the herb crop has been planted, the
ground is " hoed " lightly over by a steel rake, which dis-
turbs the surface sufficiently to destroy the crop of weed,
that are just beginning to germinate ; it is done in one-
third of the time that it could be done by a hoe, and an-

222 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

swers the purpose quite as well, as deep hoeing at U.*
early stage of planting is perfectly useless. In ten or
twelve days more, the same operation is repeated with
the steel rake, which usually effectually destroys all weeds
the seeds of which are near enough to the surface to
germinate. "We use the steel rake in lieu of a hoe on all
our crops, immediately after planting, for, as before said,
deep hoeing on plants of any kind when newly planted,
is quite unnecessary, and by the steady application of the
rake, weeds are easily kept down, and it is great economy
of labor never to allow them to start. The herb crop usu-
ally covers the ground completely by the middle of Sep-
tember. Then, every alternate line is cut out, each plant
making about two "bunches." The object in cutting out
the lines alternately is, to give room for the remaining
lines to grow ; in this way nearly double the weight of
crop is taken off the ground than if every line had been
cut, and it frequently happens, on particularly rich soils,
that at a second cutting every alternate line is again tak-
en when the remaining lines, now standing 4 feet apart,
will again meet. I had about an acre of Thyme treated
by this process, in the fall of 1864, that sold for over
$2000, — but this was an exceptional case, the crop being un-
usually fine, and prices at that time were nearly double the
ordinary ones. As before stated, the average yield is about
$500 per acre. Herbs are always a safe crop for the mar-
ket gardener ; they are less perishable than anything else
grown, for, if there be any interruption to their sale in a
green state, they can be dried and boxed up and sold in
the dry state, months after, if necessary. The usual price
is from $10 to $15 per 1000 bunches, and we always pre-

SWEET HERBS — THYME — SAGE — ETC. 223

fer to dry them rather than sell lower than $10 per 1000,
experience telling us that the market will usually so reg-
ulate itself as to handsomely pay for holding back the
sale. The cost of getting the crop raised and marketed
will average about $150 per acre, the principal expense
being in tying it in bunches. But with many of our in
dustrious German gardeners it does not cost half that, as
the tying up is usually done by their wives and children in
the evenings ; a pleasant as well as profitable occupation.
There are but few varieties of the different kinds of
Herbs, but of Thyme, there are several, and it is very im-
portant to plant only what is known as the " spreading
variety ;" an upright sort, sometimes sold in the seed
stores, is worthless as a market crop. The variety of
Sage, known as the Broad-leaved, is the best.

APPENDIX.

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS.

Although this subject is somewhat foreign to a work
on vegetable gardening, yet it may be useful to many into
whose hands this book may come, to know on what con-
ditions, slips, or cuttings, form roots. The green-houses
or forcing pits, shown in another part of the book, are
such as can be used with complete success in rooting cut-
tings of Grape Vines, Roses, Bedding Plants of all kinds,
Evergreens, etc., etc.

I do not know that I can present anything original on &
subject that has been so often discussed ; but, although 1
have but little that is new to offer, I will endeavor to
simplify what too many gardeners, either intentionally or
through ignorance, try to surround and befog with
mystery.

It is a general belief among many nurserymen that cut-
tings can best be rooted on benches formed over tanks,
but our large experience with every mode of heating in-
224

APPENDIX. 225

duces us to believe that these are not indispensable. I will
only say in this connection, that any one who understands
the conditions under which cuttings root, can accomplish
the work by a hot-bed, or along the front bench of a green-
house, with the flue or pipes running underneath, with
perfect success ; although he could do so more rapidly and
with less attention in a Propagating-house, fitted up with
all the "modern improvements." While, on the other
hand, the gardener that goes to work without a knowl-
edge of these conditions, though provided with the best
Propagating-house that ever was planned, will most cer-
tainly fail, or, at least, will not have that unvarying success
that the man who knows his business ever should have.

Propagation by cuttings is always most successful be-
tween the months of October and April, from the fact that
during that period we have the necessary low atmospheric
temperature, which I will endeavor to show is necessary to
complete success.

Our favorite system of propagating is by using cuttings
of the "young wood," that is, young shoots that are
formed by starting the plants in a green-house temperature,
averaging from 40° to 6Q°. The proper condition of the
cutting is easily determined by a little experience. In the
case of Roses, the best are " blind shoots," that is, the short
shoots that do not show flower-buds ; and the time when
hey are of the proper degree of hardness is determined
by the flower-buds on the plant just beginning to develope.
But with bedding plants, generally, we never can get the
cuttings too soft, provided that they have not been grown
in a high temperature, and a close atmosphere. The tops
of the young shoots are always best, although, if an eloiig-
10*

226 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

ated shoot is soft enough, it may be cut into sections of one
or two inches in length.

In making cuttings, preparatory to being inserted in the
sand of the bench, it is of no importance whatever to cut
immediately below a joint, as three out of every four of
the gardeners we meet still think necessary.

In making cuttings, our custom is entirely the reverse
of that practice, as we cut usually as much below a joint
as the cutting is inserted in the sand, — generally some-
thing less than an inch. This is done as a matter of
economy, both of time and material, as it is much quicker
done, and more cuttings can be so obtained than by cut-
ting at a joint ; they are also easier planted in the sand :
for in putting in cuttings of any kind we never use a
" dibber," we merely push the cutting down to the first
leaf, when hard enough to bear it ; when too soft, lines
are marked out in the sand by a thin knife, so that the
soft cuttings may be inserted without injury ; they are
then watered with a fine rose, which compacts the sand
sufficiently firm.

I now come to what I have long considered as the only
" secret " of successful propagation, namely, the temper-
ature ; very simple to give a rule for, but still somewhat
difficult to keep to that rule without too much variation.

Soft cuttings, or cuttings of the young wood, should
Lave a bottom heat of from 65° to 75°, and the atmosphere
of the house should be always, when practicable, from 10°
to 15° lower. If this is strictly adhered to, you are just
as certain of a crop of healthy rooted cuttings, in from
ten to twenty days, as you would be of a crop of Peas or
Radishes in May. But once let these conditions be deviated

APPENDIX. 227

from, for a single hour, by allowing a dash of sun to raise
the temperature of the house or frame to 85° or 90°, then
the soft unrooted slip will " wilt," its juices being expend-
ed, the process of rooting is delayed, and, if the " wilt "
has been severe enough, entirely defeated. The same cau
tion is necessary in applying the " bottom heat," for, if
the fire is applied indiscriminately, without regard to the
weather, it will be found that you will run the temperature
of the bench above "the point of safety," (75°), and in
proportion as this has been exceeded, so in proportion
will be your want of success. It is true that some cut-
tings will stand a higher temperature than 75° bottom
heat, (grape vines, perhaps, 10° more), but with plants in
general, it will be better to let 75° be the maximum.

In the propagation of Roses, etc., by cuttings of the
old or hard wood, less attention is required, but success is
not always so uniform, nor, in my opinion, are the plants
so obtained quite so good as those made from cuttings
of young wood. We prefer to place old, or hard-wood
cuttings, in the north or west side of a house, or, in fact,
anywhere where they can be kept the coolest without be-
ing actually frozen. Any attempt to apply bottom heat
to the degree used for soft cuttings, will almost certainly
destroy them. The temperature of the house may range
from 40° to 60°.

In propagating grape vines, however, this rule does not
apply, as it does to the hard wood of Roses, and other
shrubs ; with these, the treatment is nearly in all respects
similar to that already described in propagating from
young wood. The vine delights in a high temperature,
and consequently even the eyes or cuttings, in a dormant

228 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

state, when put in to propagate, require a temperature
. that would be quickly destructive to the hard or old- wood
cutting of a Rose. Grapes, when raised under glass,
are always propagated from single eyes, that is, one bud,
with about 2 inches of the under part of the shoot at-
ached; these are planted in the sand of the bench, at
from 1 to 2 inches apart, (according to the size of the eye
or cutting), and pressed down so that the bud is just above
the surface of the sand. The eyes may be put in from
January until May, but the best season to begin is about
1st March.

I will now say a word in relation to the sand or coin-
post used for propagating cuttings. I know there is con-
siderable difference of opinion on this subject ; almost ev-
ery propagator having his preferences. My opinion is,
that the color or even the texture of the sand or compost
has little or nothing to do with the formation of roots;
experiments having satisfied me, beyond all doubt, that
the sand or compost is only a medium to hold the
moisture.

Experiments with pure water, saw-dust, charcoal, an-
thracite, brick-dust, and sands of all colors and textures,
showed that cuttings pJnced in each, in the same temper-
ature, rooted almost simultaneously, and equally welL
There are rarely ever any deleterious substances in sand,
unless it is the saline matter in that taken from the sea shore,
which had better never be used when it can be had from
anywhere else. Many of my nurseryman friends I know
have been victimized to a ridiculous extent in this matter,"
by freighting sand hundreds of miles to suit the caprice,
or temporarily hide the failures, of their propagators ;

APPENDIX. 229

as, for the want of success in two cases out of three, the
sand is made the scape-goat.

The most insidious enemy of the young cutting is the
spider-web-like substance, which now, by common consent
among gardeners, is called The Fungus of the Cutting
Bench. Whenever this pest is seen, it may be taken for
granted that the temperature has been too high, and the
atmosphere too close. The remedy is to raise the sashes
enough to allow the exit of the heavy atmosphere, which
will at the same time lower the temperature. I have ob-
served that the "fungus" can never exist to an injurious
extent in a temperature below 50°.

Before closing, I will briefly advert to a simple process
of rooting cuttings, which is by far the most covenient
for amateurs or for professional gardeners, who have no
regular propagating-house. It is what is known here as
the " Saucer System." It consists simply in filling plates
or saucers with sand, the cuttings are then inserted, some-
what closely together — from an inch to two inches apart ;
the plates are then watered, so that the sand gets into a
half-liquid state ; they are then placed in the parlor win-
dow, or stage of the green-house, entirely exposed to the
sun, and never shaded. All that is further required is,
that the sand must be kept in the condition of mud until
the cuttings are rooted, which will be in from ten to
twenty days, according to the temperature, or state of
the cutting. Great care must be taken that they never
get dry, or the whole operation will fail. This is a very
safe method of rooting cuttings, and one that during hot
weather is preferable to all others.

MONTHLY CALENDAR.

The success of all garden operations depends upon
preparatory measures ; for this reason, the beginner in
the business can be much benefited by being reminded, as
he goes along, of the work necessary to be done to ensure
successful results in the future. To do this, I must to
seme extent repeat directions given in the body of the
work, but as they will be presented here in a condensed
form, they will not tax the time of the reader. As in all
other references made to dates, the latitude of New York
is taken as a basis, that being not only the point from
which our experience has mostly been derived, but also
one that will best suit the majority of readers throughout
the country. Those whose location is more southerly or
northerly must use their judgment in adapting the direc-
tions to suit their locality.

JANTJABT. — Vegetation in our Northern States is com
pletely dormant during this month, so that, as far as opera-
tions in the soil are concerned, it might be a season of
leisure ; but the business of gardening being one that so
largely requires preparation, there is always plenty to do.

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 231

The ground being usually frozen, and giving us good
hauling, it is always the month in which our energies are
given to getting manure, muck, lime, etc., into conveni-
ent places for spring work. Care should be taken to get
manure in heaps large enough to generate sufficient heat
to prevent its being frozen, so that it can be turned and
broken up thoroughly before it is spread upon the ground.
This work is often very slovenly performed, and the value
of manure much reduced by inattention to turning and
breaking it up during winter. Sometimes it is injured by
being thinly scattered, so that it freezes solid; and again,
if thrown into large heaps, and left unturned, it burns by
violent heating, getting in the condition which gardeners
call "fire fanged." It is always an indication that the
manure heap needs turning when it is seen to emit vapor,
no matter how often it has been turned previously, for it
should always be borne in mind that it quickly loses by
heating, while it always gains by a thorough breaking up
in turning.

January is usually the month in which we have our
heaviest snow stormS, which often entail on us an immense
amount of necessary, though unprofitable labor, not only
in clearing roads, but also in clearing off the snow from
our cold frames and forcing pits, for even at this season of
dormant vegetation, light is indispensable to the well-be-
ing of our vegetable plants ; unless they are in a frozen
condition, that is, if we have hud a continuation of zero
weather, all our plants of Cabbage, Lettuce, Cauliflower,
etc., are frozen in the cold frames; if in this state, the
glass is covered up by snow, it is unnecessary to remove
it even for two or three weeks, but if the weather has

232 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

been mild so that the plants under the sashes have not
been frozen when covered by snow, then the snow must
be cleared from the glass as soon as practicable. In the
green-houses, hot-beds, or forcing pits, where artificial heat
is used, the removal of the snow from the glass is of the
utmost consequence.

If not done in December, the final covering up of Cel-
ery trenches, root pits, and all things requiring protection
from frost, should be attended to in the first week of this
month.

Should the ground be open enough to allow of dig-
ging, (which occasionally occurs here even in January),
let all roots, remaining in the ground, be dug up and pit-
ted, as another chance is not likely to occur before spring.
Cold frames and forcing pits, particularly the former,
should be aired whenever the weather will permit, for it
is necessary, to carry them safely through until spring,
that they may be properly hardened. (See article on
Cold Frames.)

FEBRUARY. — The gardening operations differ but little
from those of January, except that in the latter part of the
month, as the days lengthen and the sun gets brighter,
more air may be given to framing and forcing pits. Hot
manure should now be got forward to be prepared for hot-
beds, and if desired, some may be formed this month. (See
article on Hot-beds.) Have all tools purchased or repair-
ed, so that no time may be lost in the more valuable days
of next month. It is important to have always spare
tools of the leading kinds, so that men may not be thrown
idle, at a hurried season, by the breaking of a fork, spade,
or hoe. In harness and implements, connected with the

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 233

teams, it is of great importance to have spare parts to
replace those liable to be broken ; otherwise, frequently
half a day is lost, by the breaking of a whiffle-tree, or
plow share, causing more loss by delay, than three or four
times the cost of the article.

MARCH — is one of the busiest months in the year with us.
Hot-beds are made, and planted or sown, and Lettuce crops
may be planted in cold frames and forcing pits, (see direc-
tions under these heads). In the latter part of the month
we often begin, on dry soils, the sowing or planting in the
open ground of such hardy vegetables as Horseradish,
Cabbage, Lettuce, Onions, Radishes, Turnips, etc., etc.
Although we gain but little in earliness by starting before
April, yet it forwards our operations, so that it equalizes
labor more than when starting late in spring. Enthusi-
astic beginners must avoid the too common error of be-
ginning out-door operations too soon, when the soil is
not sufficiently dry ; for, if the soil is dug or plowed while
wet, it is highly injurious, not only destroying the pres-
ent crop, but injuring the land for years after.

New plantations of Asparagus, Rhubarb, Sea Kale, and
Artichokes may be made, and old beds top-dressed, by
digging in short manure close around the plants ; we con-
sider it more economical of manure to do this in spring,
than in fall. (See Asparagus.)

Such roots as Cabbage, Carrot, Celery, Leek, Lettuce,
Onion, Parsnip, etc., planted to produce seed, may be set
out the latter part of this month, on soils that are warm
and dry, drawing earth up around the crowns so as to
protect them from sharp frosts ; in hoeing, in April, this
soil is removed.

234 GARDENING FOB PROFIT.

Where extra laborers are wanted for the garden, I have
always considered it economy to secure them in the early
part of March, even a week or two before they are really
needed, for if the hiring of them is delayed until the rush
of work is upon us, we often have to pay higher rates for
inferior hands, and have less time to initiate them, in their
duties. To such as require large numbers of hands, and
look to such ports as New York for emigrants, let me cau-
tion my friends from the rural districts not to believe too
implicitly in the promises of these prospective American
citizens. Much vexatious experience has taught me
that one out of every three men is either worthless, or
will run away, so that for many years back, if I wanted
four hands, I made one job of it and hired six, well know-
ing, that before a week had passed, my force would be
reduced to the required number.

APRIL — brings nearly all the operations of the garden
under way, the planting and sowing of all the hardy vari-
eties of vegetables is completed this month. (See table,
in article on Seed Sowing). Look well to the hot-beds,
cold frames, or forcing pits ; they will require abundance
of air, and, (where artificial heat is used), plenty of water;
we have now bright sunshine, promoting rapid vegetation
under glass, and to have heavy crops, they must not be
stinted in water. Hot-beds are particularly critical in this
month; an hour or two of neglect, in giving air, may
quickly scorch the tender plants that you have been
nursing with so much care for a month previous; and a
balmy April day may terminate in a stinging frost at
night, making short work of your hot-beds if they are
not well covered up by straw mats.

MONTHLY CALENDAR 235

Plantations of Asparagus, Rhubarb, etc., if not made
last month, should now be done, as those set out later thau
April, will not make such a vigorous growth. Succession
crops of Lettuce, Beets, Cabbage, Onions, Peas, Potatoes,
Radishes, Spinach, Turnips, etc., may be planted or sown
during the latter part of the month, to succeed those
planted in March and early part of April.

The early sown crops should be hoed, and the ground
stirred close to the young plants, so as to destroy the germ
of the weeds now appearing.

MAT. — Although the bulk of the hardy vegetables is
now planted, yet the tender varieties are still to come ; they
require more care as they are more susceptible of injury,
by too early or injudicious planting, than the others., In
the early part of the month, the succession crops, named
in April, may be yet planted so as to produce good crops,
and the tender varieties, such as Bush Beans, Cora, Melon,
Okra, Pepper, Squash, Tomato, may be sown or planted
after the middle of the month ; but Egg Plants, Sweet
Potatoes, Lima Beans, and Peppers, had better be delayed
to the last week in May. The first produce of the spring
plantings will now be ready for use. Lettuce or Radishes,
planted in cold frames in March, are matured from 5th to
20th May, and if covered up by straw mats at night, ten
days earlier. In warm situations, on rich, light soils, the
Radishes, Lettuce, Turnips, or Peas, planted in March, are
fit for market. Rhubarb and Asparagus are also fit to be
gathered, on early soils, the latter part of the month.

Additional labor is now beginning to be required,
the marketing of crops occupying a large portion of the
time, while the thinning out of sown crops, and the keep-

236 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

ing down of weeds which are now showing themselves
everywhere, entails an amount of labor not before neces-
sary. To withhold labor at this critical time, is short-
sighted economy, whether by the owner of a private
or market garden ; for let the crops planted and sown,
once get enveloped by weeds, it will often cost more in
labor to clean the crop, than it will sell for ; it is not at all
an uncommon occurrence to see acres of Carrots or Par-
snips plowed down, after being carefully manured and
sown, from neglect or inability of the owner to procure
labor at the proper time. The rapid development of weeds
is, to the inexperienced, very deceptive ; a crop of Car-
rots, Parsnips, Beets, or Onions, may appear to be easily
manageable at a given day in May ; but a few days of con-
tinued rain occurs, and the crop, that could have been
profitably cultivated on the 15th, is hopelessly over-grown
on the 25th.

JUNE is one of the months in which we reap the reward
of our operations in the market garden ; at this time,
the bulk of all the early crops matures. So far, nearly all
has been outlay ; now we receive the returns. In this
district, our early crops of Asparagus, Beets, Cauliflower,
Cabbage, Lettuce, Onion, Peas, Radishes, Rhubarb, Spin-
ach, and Turnip, are sold off, and the ground plowed for
the second crop, (except in the cases of Asparagus and
Rhubarb), by the end of the month. For private gar-
dens, succession crops of Beets, Bush Beans, Cabbages,
Cucumbers, Lettuce, Peas, Radishes, and Potatoes, may
still be planted, but it would hardly be profitable for mar-
ket purposes ; as it would occupy the land wanted by the
market gardener for his second crop, besides the market

MONTHLY CALENDAR 23?

buyer of the cities will hardly touch a vegetable or fruit be-
hind its season at any price. He will pay 10 cents per bunch
for Radishes in May, and will pass by a far better article
of the same kind in July or August, though offered at one-
fifth the price. He will give 50 cents per quart for Toma-
toes, (half-ripe), in June, that he could not be induced to
touch in October, if he could buy them at 25 cents per
bushel.

The Cucumbers, planted in cold frames and forcing
pits, are also marketable in the latter part of this month.
Great care must be taken to have them abundantly water-
ed in dry weather ; inattention to watering, (particularly
of all vegetables under glass), is sure to entail loss on the
cultivator, by giving an imperfect or partial crop. Water-
ing had better be done in the evening, whenever the surface
appears dry, not by a mere sprinkling; but by a thorough
soaking ; not less than a gallon to every square yard of
surface. As soon as the Cucumbers are all cut from the
frames, the sashes should be piled up at the ends of each
section, and covered with a shutter, and a weight of some
kind put on the top, to prevent them being blown off by
high winds.

JULY. — The remaining part of the spring crops are
cleared off in the early part of this month, and by the
middle of it, unless the season is unusually dry, all the
ground is planted with the second crops of Celery, Sage,
Thyme, Late Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauliflower, or Leeks.
Little is done to these crops this month, as but little
growth is made during the hot dry weather, and newly
planted crops are merely stirred between the rows with
the hoe or cultivator. Some of the other later crops are now

238 GARDENING FOB PKOFIT.

maturing for market. Bush Beans, Cucumbers, Potatoes,
Squashes, and in early places, Tomatoes ; also succession
crops of Peas, Beets, Onions, Cabbages, etc., such of
these as only mature during the end of the month, render
the second crops rather late, unless for the later crops of
Celery and Spinach.

AUGUST. — Except the months of January and Febru-
ary, August is a month requiring less labor in the market
garden than any other; usually all the planting has been
dorie in July, and the long drouths common at this season,
stagnate the growth of even our most luxuriant weeds,
so that in this month, of all others, the garden ought
to be clean.

Late plantings of Celery may be made, to the middle of
the month, and still make fair-sized roots for winter.
Spinach may also be sown for an early crop, to be cut off
in fall. Ruta Baga Turnips should be sown early in the
month, and the white and yellow varieties during the later
part. If the fly attacks them, it may be kept down, so as
to do but little harm, by frequent applications of lime,
dusted lightly over the rows. Bush Beans and Peas, may
still be sown for late crops. The Onion crop will ripen
off during this month, and when convenient to market,
should be offered for sale as soon as gathered, as the
orice received for those first sold, is frequently double that
of those coming in ten days later.

SEPTEMBER. — The cool nights and moist atmosphere of
this month begin to tell strikingly on the crops planted foi
fall use ; Celery, Cabbage, and Cauliflower, now grow rap-
idly, and require repeated stirring of the soil with the
plow, cultivator, or hoe. Celery, that is wanted for use

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 23P

towards the latter part of the month, may now be "han-
dled," or straightened up, and the earth drawn to it by
the hoe ; in a week or so after, it may be " banked up "
by the spade to half its hight, allowed to grow for an-
other week or more, until it lengthens out a little further,
when the banking should be continued as high as its top.
In ten days, (at this season), when thus finished, it is
blanched sufficiently to use, and should then be used, or
it will soon spoil. Care must be taken that no more is
banked up than can be sold or used, as it is not only
labor lost, but is decidedly hurtful to the Celery, by mak-
ing it hollow. The practice recommended by most au-
thorities, and still practiced by private gardeners, is, to
keep earthing it up every two weeks from the time it
begins to grow ; this is utter nonsense, resulting in giving
Celery tough, stringy, and rusty — utterly unfit to eat,
while the expenditure in labor would be twice more than
the price it would bring if sold ; for further information
on this important subject, see article on Celery. The seeds
of Cauliflower, Cabbage, and Lettuce, should be sown this
month, from the 10th to the 20th, for the purpose of be-
ing pricked out in cold frames to be wintered over ; it is
very important that the sowing should be done as near
these dates as possible, for if sown much before the 10th,
the plants may run up to seed when planted out in spring,
if much later than the 20th, they would be too weak to
be wintered over. Shallots and Onions should also be
planted this month, and Spinach and German Greens, or
u Sprouts," sown to be wintered over, all now for spring use
OCTOBER. — This month corresponds in part to June of
the summer months, being tha> in which the returns from

240 GARDENING FOE PROFIT.

the second crops come in. Celery, that has been banked
or earthed up, now sells freely and in considerable quanti-
ties ; all the crop should this month be " handled," and
as much as possible earthed up. Cauliflower is always
scarce and dear in the early part of this month, but unless
the fall has been unusually moist, is generally not matured
until towards the end of the month. Thyme, Sage, and
all Sweet Herbs, should now be sold, from the beginning
of the month, cutting out only every alternate row, as it
gives the crop time to grow, so that the remaining rows
spread sufficiently to fill the space. (See article on
Thyme, etc).

The crops planted or sown last month, must now be
carefully hoed, and the weeds removed; for, though
weeds are not quite so numerous in variety as in summer,
Chickweed, now very abundant, is one of the most ex-
pensive weeds of the garden to eradicate.

The plants of Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, re-
commended to be sown last month, are now fit to be
pricked out in the cold frames. (See detail of the process.)

NOVEMBER. — This month warns us that winter is ap-
proaching, and preparations should be carefully made to-
wards securing all products of the garden that are perish-
able by frost. The process of putting away the Celery
crop in trenches for winter use, (see Celery article), should
be begun about the 5th or 10th of the month in dry
weather j that put in trenches then, will be blanched suf
ficiently for use in six or eight weeks, but when sufficient
'ielp can be obtained, it will always pay well to bank or
«*arth up a large portion of Celery by the spade, clear to
the top; this will keep it safe from injury from any

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 241

frost that we have in this month, and thus protected, it
need not be put away into winter quarters — the trenches
— before the end of November ; put away thus late, it will
keep without the loss of a root until March or April,
when it is always scarce and high in price.

The great difficulty most persons have, is from stowing it
away and covering it up too early ; this practice of earth-
ing it up to the top roughly in November we have only
practiced for the past two seasons, but find the extra labor
well repaid, as we are enabled thus to save this very valu-
able crop without loss. There is rarely need of applying
any covering of leaves or litter to the trenches this
month, and it cannot be too often told that the cov-
ering up of vegetables of all kinds in winter quarters
should be delayed to the very last moment that it is safe
to do so. Beets, Carrots, Cabbages, and Cauliflowers,
must be dug up, and secured this month in the manner re-
commended in "Preserving Vegetables in Winter."
Horseradish, Salsify, and Parsnips, being entirely hardy,
and frost proof, need not necessarily be dug, although
from the danger of their being frozen in the ground next
month, if time will permit, the work had better be prog-
ressing.

All clear ground should be dug or plowed, and properly
leveled, so that on the opening of spring operations can
be begun with as little delay as possible. If draining is
required, this is the most convenient time to do it, the
ground being clear, and not yet much frozen.

Towards the end of the month, the sashes ehould be put
on the Cabbage and Lettuce plants in cold nights, but on
11

242 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

no account should they be kept on in day time, as it is of
the utmost importance that they be not made tender at
this time by being "drawn" under the sashes. I may
again repeat that these plants are half hardy, and it is
killing them with kindness to protect them from slight
freezing. Cabbage and Lettuce plants may be exposed
in any place without glass, or other protection, where the
thermometer runs no lower than 10 above zero. Rhubarb
and Asparagus beds will be benefited by a covering of 4
or 6 inches of rough manure, or any other litter, to pre-
vent the severity of the frost ; the crop from beds, thus
covered, will come in a few days earlier, and will be
stronger than if left unprotected.

DECEMBER. — Occasionally, we have the ground open
so that digging and plowing can be done to nearly the end
of the month, but it is not safe to calculate much after the
first week ; though by covering up the roots, still undug,
with their own leaves or with litter, we are often enabled
to dig our Horseradish or Parsnips very late in the month,
and like all other vegetables, the later they remain in the
soil they grow in, the finer is the quality.

Celery trenches should receive the first covering, early
in the month, if the weather has been such that it has been
unnecessary before ; the covering should not be less than
4 or 5 inches of litter or leaves, only taking care that the
material is light, weight or closeness would prevent evap-
oration too much at this season, while the weather is not
yet severe ; the final covering should not be later than the
end of the month.

The crops of Spinach, Kale, Onions, Shallots, etc., that
have been planted or sown in September, should be cov-

MONTHLY CALENDAE. 24S

ered up with hay or straw if their position is much expos- -
ed ; if not, there is no particular necessity. When all has
been secured safely in winter quarters, attention must be
energetically turned to procuring manure, muck, and all
available kinds of fertilizers ; there is little danger of
spending too much in this way if you have it to spend — •
depend upon it, there is no better investment if you are
working your Garden for Profit.

THE

SMALL FRUIT CULTUR1ST.

Bl

ANDREW S. FULLER.
"Beautifully Illustrated.

We have heretofore had no work especially devoted to small
fruits, and certainly no treatises anywhere that give the information
contained in this. It is to the advantage of special works that the
author can say all that he has to say on any subject, and not be
restricted as to space, as he must be in those works that cover the
culture of all fruits— great and small.

This book covers the whole ground of Propagating Small Fruits,
their Culture, Varieties, Packing for Market, etc. "While very full on
the other fruits, the Currants and Raspberries have been more care-
fully elaborated than ever before, and in this important part of his
book, the author has had the invaluable counsel of Charles Downing.
The chapter on gathering and packing the fruit is a valuable one,
and in it are figured all the baskets and boxes now in common use.
The book is very finely and thoroughly illustrated, and makes an
admirable companion to the Grape Cullurist, by the same author.

CONTENTS:

CHAP. 1. BARBERRY. CHAP. VII. GOOSEBERRY.

CHAP. II. STRAWBERRY. CHAP. VIII. CORNELIAN CHERRY.

CHAP. III. RASPBERRY. CHAP. IX. CRANBERRY.

CHAP. IV BLACKBERRY. CHAP. X. HUCKLEBERRY.

CHAP. V. DWARF CHERRY. CHAP. XL SHEPERDIA.

OUAP. VI. CURRANT. CHAP. XII. PREPARATION FO*.

GATHERING FRUIT.

Sent post-paid. Price 81.50.

OBANGE JUDD & CO., 245 Broadway, New-York.

NEW AND BEAUTIFUL WORK.

JOSIAH HOOPES, Westchester, Pa.

INCLUDING

Propagation, Cultivation, Description of Varieties, and
their Adaptability to Different Situations.

THIS is a long-needed work, as in it the present state of our knowledge
upon the cone-bearing plants, or Coniferae of the botanist, is posted up. Mr.
Iloopes is one of those persons rarely met with— a practical cultivator, and a
man of science at the same time. While his work gives us all the Coniferae
arranged in the classification of the botanist, it at the same time treats of the
experience, not only of the author, but of American cultivators generally,
with this large and important family of plants.

Evergreens play so interesting a part, not only in ornamental planting, but
in what may be termed economical planting, (i. e. hedges, screens, wind-
breaks, etc.,) that we are sure a work which treats of their propagation and
culture, describes in both popular and scientific language the many species,
and, what is of not the least importance, gives a list of the tender and un-
reliable ones, will be warmly welcomed by every lover of these beautiful
trees.

Mr. Hoopes brings to his work a perfect enthusiasm for Ms subject, and
is as free to condemn a plant as if he were not a nurseryman. All the latest
novelties from Japan, the Northwest, etc., are noticed, and their success or
failure, both in this country and in England, is recorded.

The work is abundantly illustrated with most carefully executed engrav-
ings, for the greater part from living specimens.

We must commend the conscientious care the author has shown in striving
to arrive at the proper names ; and doubtless much of the confusion that at
present exists in respect to names among both dealers and growers, will be
corrected now that they have a standard work to refer to.

Not the least interesting portion of the book is an account of the principal
collections of evergreens in the country.

The work contains 435 pages, 12mo, on fine paper.

Sent post-paid. Price, $3.00.
ORANGE JUDD & CO.,

245 Broadway, New- York City.

VALUABLE AND BEAUTIFUL WORK.

HARRIS'

Insects Injurious to Vegetation.

BY THE LATE

THADDEUS WILLIAM HARRIS, M.D.

A New Edition, enlarged and improved, with additions from the author's
manuscripts and original notes.
Illustrated by engravings drawn from nature under the supervision ol

PROFESSOR,

Edited by CHARLES L. FLINT,
Secretary of the Massachusetts State Board of Agriculture.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTION.— Insects Denned— Brain and Nerves— Air-Pipes and Breath-
ing-Holes— Heart and Blood— Metamorphoses or Transformations-
Classification ; Orders and Groups.

CHAPTER II.

COLEOPTERA.— Beetles— Scarabseians— Ground-Beetles-Tree-Beetles-Cock-
chafers— Flower. Stag, Spring, Timber, Capricorn, Leaf-mining, and Tor-
toise Beetles— Chrysomelians— Cantharides.

CHAPTER III.

ORTHOPTERA.— Earwigs — Cockroaches-- Soothsayers — Walking-sticks or
Spectres— Mole, Field, Climbing, and Wingless Crickets— Grasshoppers-
Katydid— Locusts.

CHAPTER IV.

HEMIPTER A.— Bugs— Sqnash-Bug— Clinch-Bug— Plant Bugs— Harvest Flies—
Tree-Hoppers — Vine-Hoppers — Plant-Lice — American Blight— Bark-Lice.

CHAPTER V.

LEPIDOPTERA.-Catei-pillars— Butterflies — Skippers— Hawk-Moths— Alge-
rians or Boring^ Caterpillars — Moths — Cut-Worms — Span-Worms — Leaf-
Rollers— Fruit, Bee, Corn, Clothes, and Feather-Winged Moths.

CHAPTER VI.

HYMENOPTERA — Stingers and Piercers— Saw-Flies and Slugs— Elm, Fir,
and Vine Saw-Fly — Rose-Bush and Pear-Tree Slugs— Horn-Tailed
Wood-Wasps— Gall-Flies—Barley Insect and Joint Worm.

CHAPTER VII.

DIPTERA.— Gnats and Flies— Ma^ots and their Transformations— Gail
Gnats— Hessian, Wheat, and Radish Flies— Two-Winged Gall-Flies, anf»
Fruit-Flies.
APPENDIX.— The Army Worm.

Published in two beautiful editions ; one plain, with steel engravings, 8vo.
extra cloth, $4 : the other in extra cloth, beveled boards, red edges, engrav-
ings colored with great accuracy, $6.
Sent post-paid on receipt of price.

ORANGE JUDD & CO.,

245 Broadway, New- York City

DARWIN'S NEW WORK.

THE VARIATION

ANIMALS AND PLANTS

UNDER DOMESTICATION.

BY

CHARLES DAR^TIlSr, M.AM JT.R.S., ETC.

AUTHORIZED EDITION.
TJac A. :F» n. 33 HP yv o IE

BY

PROFESSOR ASA GRAY.

IIST T^KTO -VOLTJIMIIES-

This work treats of the variations in our domestic animals and cultivated
plants, discussing the circumstances that influence these variations, inherit-
ance of peculiarities, results of in-and-in breeding, crossing, etc.

It is one of the most remarkable books of the present day, presenting an
array of facts that show the most extraordinary amount of observation and
-esearch. All the domestic animals, from horses and cattle to canary-birds and
noney-bees, are discussed, as well as our leading culinary and other plants,
making it a work of the greatest interest.

Its importance to asricnlturists, breeders, scientific men, and the general
reader will be seen by its scope as indicated in the following partial enumera-
tion of its contents : PIGS, CATTLE, SHEEP, GOATS ; DOGS AND CATS, HOKSES
AND ASSES ; DOMESTIC RABBITS ; DOMESTIC PIGEONS ; FOWLS, DUCKS, GEESE,
PEACOCK, TURKEY, GUINEA FOWL, CANAKY-BIRD, GOLD-PISH; HIVE-BEES;
SILK-MOTHS. CULTIVATED PLANTS ; CEREAL AND CULINARY PLANTS ; FRUITS,
ORNAMENTAL TREES, FLOWERS, BUD VARIATION. INHERITANCE, REVERSION
OR ATAVISM, CROSSING. ON THE GOOD EFFECTS OF CROSSING, AND ON THE
EVIL EFFECTS OF CLOSE INTERBREEDING. SELECTION. CAUSES OP VARIABII/-
ITY, LAWS OF VARIATION, ETC., ETO.

Published in Two Volumes of nearly 11OO pages.

FINELY ILLTJSTRATEID.
SENT POST-PAID .......................................... PRICE, $6.00.

ORAXUE JL'DD & CO.,

245 Broadway, New -York City

THE AMEKIOAN

FOR 1868.

.A. "5cTear-]3ook
FOR EVERY HOME.

The second number of this serial is now ready. It contains a
popular record of horticultural progress during the past year,
besides valuable articles from

EMINENT HORTICULTURISTS.

Among those who contributed to its pages are

HON. MARSHALL P. WILDER,
PETER HENDERSON,
THOMAS MEEHAN,
JOBIAH HOOPES,
WM S. CARPENTER,
GEORGE W. CAMPBELL,
DOCTOR VAN KEUREN,

DOCTOR JOHN A. WARDER,
S. B. PARSONS,
JAS. J. H. GREGORY,
GEORGE SUCH,
ANDREW S. FULLER,
JOHN SAUL,
JAMES VICE,

and other well-known pomological and floricultural writers.

The engravings, which have been prepared expressly for the
work, are numerous, and make it the

MOST BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED

work of its kind ever published in this or any other country. It
contains Tables, Lists of Nurserymen, Seedsmen, and Florists, and
other useful matters of reference. Sent post-paid. Price, fancy
paper covers, 50 cts ; cloth, 75 cts.

ORANGE JUDD & CO.,

245 Broadway, New-York

THE AMERICAN

FOR 1868.

A. Year-Book
Wanted by Everybody.

This volume is now ready, and contains much of interest to
every agriculturist. Besides the general record of agricultural
progress, it has a valuable article on

Factory I>airy Practice,

By GARDNER B. WEEKS, Esq., Secretary of the American Dairy-
men's Association, in which he discusses the reasons for the best
practice and the most approved apparatus, buildings, etc., fully il-
lustrated, and is equally interesting to the practical dairyman and
to the novice,

Sewers and Earth-Closets

In tlieir relations to Agriculture, by Col. GEO. B. WAKING, Jr.
Winter Wheat,

Describing, with engravings, new and valuable varieties by JOSEPH
HARRIS and JOHN JOHNSTON ; an article upon

Scythes and Cradles,

By JOHN W. DOUGLAS, (fully illustrated ;) also articles on Horse-
Breaking and on Bitting Colts, by SAM'L P. HEADLY, Esq., (il-
lustrated;) on Recent Progress in Agricultural Science, by Prof
S. W. JOHNSON ; on Commercial Fertilizers, Veterinary Medicine
and Jurisprudence, Progress of Invention Affecting Agriculture,
Valuable Tables for Farmers and others, etc.

It is intended that the work shall be practical, excellent in the
beauty of its illustrations, and in its adaptation to the wants of
American Farmers, superior to anything of the kind heretofore
published.

In its general features it is like the Agricultural Annual for 1837,
containing an Almanac and Calendar, and there will be added a
list of dealers in Agricultviral Implements, Seeds, etc. Sent post-
paid. Price, fancy paper covers, 50 cts. ; cloth, 75 cts.

ORANGE JUDD & CO.,

245 Broadway, New-York.

A VALUABLE NEW BOOK.

THE GRAPE VINE.

BY FREDERICK MOHR,

DOOTOE OP PHILOSOPHY AND MEDICINE.

Translated from the German, and accompanied with Hints

on the Propagation and General Treatment of

American Varieties.

BY HOUTICOL^.

This work is mainly devoted to the most elementary matters. It ex-
plains the structure ana mode of growth of the vine so clearly that no
intelligent person who reads it need be in doubt what to do with his
vines. It has been well translated, and a chapter on the propagation
of American varieties has been substituted for the original one on multi-
plying the European grape. As anatomy is the foundation of surgery,
so is a knowledge of the structure of the vine to the vine-dresser. In
both cases, it is as important to know when and where to cut and how.

CONTENTS:

Development and Structure of the Crape Vine.
The Node ; The Branch ; Reasons for Pruning : Pruning.
Training on Trellises; Summer Treatment; Plantations.
Vines Trained along the Garden Walk.
Trellises on Walls; Tree Trellises.
Vines Trained to Trellises ; Bronner's Method.
Time Required for Covering a Trellis.
Manuring the Vine; Age of Vineyard.
The Rising Sap In the Vine ; The Grape Disease.
Treatment of Vines Injured by Frost.

Implements ; Proper Time to Perform Work on the Vine.
Constituents of the Vine and their Distribution.
Propagation of the Vine: By Layers; By Cuttings; By

Grafting; By Inarching; By Seeds.
Hybridization.
American Varieties - General Management; Planting;

Pruning; Pinching; Covering In Fall.

SENT POST-PAID, PRICE $1.
ORANGrE JUDD & CO.,

245 Broadway and 41 Park Row, N. T.

AMERICAN POMOLOGY.
APPLES.

By Doct. JOHN A..

PBE8IDBNT OHIO POMOLOGIOAL SOCIETY; YIOE-PEB8IDEITT AMKBIO Uf POMOLOGKUl
8OOIBTY.

393 II.I,U*Ti:ATIO:\S.*

This volume has about 750 pages, the first 375 of which are de
roted to the discussion of the general subjects of propagation, nur.
scry culture, selection and planting, cultivation of orchards, care of
fruit, insects, and the like ; the remainder is occupied with descrip-
tions of apples. With the richness of material at hand, the trouble
was to decide what to leave out. It will be found that while the
old and standard varieties are not neglected, the new and promising
sorts, especially those of the South and West, have prominence.
A list of selections for different localities by eminent orchardists is
a valuable portion of the volume, while the Analytical Index 01
Catalogue Raisonne, as the French would say, is the most extended
American fruit list ever published, and gives evidence of a fearful
amount of labor.

CONTENTS,

Chapter I.— INTRODUCTORY.

Chapter II.— HISTORY OF THE APPLE.

Chapter III.— PROPAGATION.

Buds and Cuttings — Grafting — Budding — The Nursery.

Chapter IV— DWARFING.

Chapter V — DISEASES.

Chapter VI.— THE SITE FOR AN ORCHARD.

Chapter VII.— PREPARATION OP SOIL FOR AJV ORCHARD.

Chapter VIII— SELECTION AND PLANTING.

Chapter IX CULTURE, Etc.

Chapter X.— PHILOSOPHY OF PRUNING.

Chapter XI.— THINNING.

Chapter XII.— RIPENING AND PRESERVING FRUITS.

Chapter XIII and XIV.— INSECTS.

Chapter XV— CHARACTERS OF FRUITS AND THEIR
VALUE— TERMS USED.

Chapter XVI— CLASSIFICATION.

Necessity for— Basis of— Characters— Shape— Its Regu-
larity— Flavor — Color — Their several Values, etc., De
scriptiou of Apples.

Chapter XVII— FRUIT LISTS — CATALOGUE AND INDEX OF
FRUITS.

Sent Post-Paid, Price $3.00,

ORANGE JUDD & CO., 245 Broadway, New-York

THE

6S&PS

ANDREW S, FULLER,

NEW AMD ENLARGED EDITION.

THE STANDARD WORK

ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE HARDY GRAPE,

AS IT NOT ONLY DISCUSSES PRINCIPLES,

BUT

ILLUSTRATES PRACTICE.

Every thing is made perfectly plain, and. its teach-
ings may toe followed upon

ONE VINE OB A VINEYARD.

The following are some of the topics tJiat are treated i

GROWING NEW VARIETIES FROM SEED.

PROPAGATION BY SINGLE BUDS OR EYES.

PROPAGATING HOUSES AND THEIR MANAGEMENT FULLY DESCRIBED.

How TO GROW.

CUTTINGS IN OPEN AIR, AND HOW TO MAKE LAYERS.

GRAFTING THE GRAPE— A SIMPLE AND SUCCESSFUL METHOD.

HYBRIDIZING AND CROSSING — MODE OF OPERATION.

SOIL AND SITUATION — PLANTING AND CULTIVATION.

PRUNING, TRAINING, AND TRELLISES— ALL THE SYSTEMS EXPLAISEI>.

GARDEN CULTURE — How TO GROW VINES IN A DOOR-YARD.

INSECTS, MILDEW, SUN-SCALD, AND OTHER TROUBLES.

DESCRIPTION OF THE VALUABLE AKD THE DISCARDED VARIETIES.

Sent post-paid. Price $1.50.

Orange Judd <te Co., 245 Broadway.

THE LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA

Santa Barbara

THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW.

JUN1 1984-

Series 9482

iillilii

AA 000990719 7

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